Warsaw Insider February 2015 #222

Why We Love Warsaw page 26

Warsaw

Best of Warsaw Special Awards page 16

Trends: Photography

Moving?

page 12

February 02 price zł.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

(222)

2015

(VAT 8% included)

BALMAIN BALMAIN CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CASADEI HERVE LEGER CHRISTIANISABEL LOUBOUTIN MARANT GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER HERVE GAMME LEGER ROUGE RALPH LAUREN ISABEL MARANT SALVATORE FERRAGAMO JIMMY CHOO SIMONETTA RAVIZZA KENZO TOD’S TORY BURCH RALPH LAUREN SIMONETTAVALENTINO RAVIZZA TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

Moliera 2 Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

FEBRUARY 2015 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Piers Bright Gill Boelman-Burrows Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

INFRONT

Opener 9 News 10 Trends: Photography 12

FEATURES

Best of Warsaw: Gala Winners 16 Special Awards 18 Romantic Warsaw 24 I (heart) Warsaw 26

2

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

LISTINGS

Restaurants 38 Cafes & Wine Bars 63 Nightlife 66 Shopping 71 Family 74 Health & Beauty 78 In the City 82

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

REVIEWS

Jamón 33 6 Cocktails 34

INBACK

Classifieds 85 Map 86 Looking Back 88

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Adam Fogler afogler@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2015 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover This issue we look into the heart of Warsaw: what makes us love this town, and where to take the people we love. Which explains the cover…

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

Dating disasters? Been there, wrote the bestseller. It must have been what, seven years ago or something, and the tryst was booked for a place called Villa Rossini: at the time, the most distinguished restaurant in Warsaw. My date was red hot, but following a brush against a rogue candle, so too was I. To one girl out there, I will always be the bloke who set himself ablaze in the middle of a restaurant. To complete my humiliation, the waiters gave me a round of applause as we left. So yeah, I fear Valentine’s Day like some people fear spiders. That’s one reason we’ve come up with a hit list designed to bulletproof your day from woe and misfortune. Also this issue, we’ve grilled a few people as to their love affair with Warsaw, and got to know the upcoming photographers changing the way we view the city. And, how can I forget, we also wrap-up our coverage of last month’s Best of Warsaw Food & Drinks Awards. Hope you enjoy it.

FAY GIANVITO ROSSI JIMMY CHOO KENZO RALPH LAUREN SIMONETTA RAVIZZA TOD’S TOM FORD TORY BURCH VALENTINO YVES SALOMON BABY DIOR DOLCE & GABBANA KIDS KENZO KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

this month...

CONCERT

Fritz Kalkbrenner 5 Feb @ Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 With a sound described as a perfect fusion of techno and soul, German DJ and producer Fritz Kalkbrenner made his name as the man behind the soundtrack of the critically acclaimed film Berlin Calling. Sounds from his latest album, Ways Over Water, will feature heavily during this performance.

Tickets from zł. 59 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Jessie Ware 7 Feb, 19:00 @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A This British singer-song writer has been described as the missing link between Adele and Sade. High praise indeed for an artist who only released her debut album, Devotion, in August 2012. Her career has been on an upward curve ever since, with her 2014 album Tough Love gaining widespread approval.

Tickers from zł. 200 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Elliphant

Editor’s Pick Aga Zaryan Part of the new wave of Polish jazz vocalists, join the acclaimed Aga Zaryan for an evening of love songs at the atmospheric Roma.

14 Feb, 17:00 & 20:00 @ Teatr Roma, ul. Nowogrodzka 49, teatrroma.pl

7 Feb, 19:00 @ Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 This Swedish singer/rapper went viral in 2013 with her first single, Down On Life, scoring a million plus views on You Tube. Even Katy Perry was moved to proclaim it as ‘the most bad ass music videos I’ve seen in a long time’.

Tickets from zł. 70 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Konono No. 1 10 Feb @ Pardon, To Tu, pl. Grzybowski 12/16 This Grammy-winning Congolese group are known for their DIY approach to music, using percussion instruments made from salvaged junkyard finds.

Even the wood-carved microphone is fitted with a magnet from a rescued car alternator!

Tickets @ Pardon, To Tu

CONCERT

Ed Sheeran 13 Feb, 19:00 @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A Success has followed Sheeran ever

6

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

since his 2011 debut album +. Brit awards and Grammy nominations have followed, not to mention a stint opening up for Taylor Swift. Lucky guy. His latest album, X, is in the running for Album of the Year at the Grammy’s this February.

Tickets @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

The Afghan Whigs 15 Feb @ Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 Described as ‘one of the few alt-rock bands to flourish in the 90s on a major label’, the Whigs have influenced a number of bands over the years, among them The National and My Chemical Romance. Rolling Stone magazine describe their latest album as ‘stylishly sleazy in its intensity’.

Tickets from zł. 109 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Mark Lanegan 18 Feb, 18:30 @ Progresja, Fort Wola 22 Compared with Tom Waits, this American alt rocker has in the past collaborated with Leadbelly and Nirvana. Formerly of Queens of the Stone Age, Lanegan visits Warsaw to promote his 2014 album Phantom Radio.

Tickets from zł. 80 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Peter Brotzmann 22 & 23 Feb @ Pardon, To Tu, pl. Grzybowski 12/16 Recognized as one of the biggest names on the European free jazz scene, Brotzmann’s rough timbre and fast paced style have cemented his name in legend. This time the legendary saxophonist will be appearing alongside Steve Swell and Pal Nilssen-Love.

Tickets @ Pardon, To Tu

CONCERT

Gilles Peterson 27 Feb @ Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 Appearing as part of the Electronic Beats Festival, this DJ legend is internationally known for his ability to connect acid jazz to the club scene. Regarded as something of a pioneer, his studio show has been syndicated to seven European countries.

Tickets from zł. 30 @ eventim.pl

Karnawał pełen smaku!

A Carnival of Flavor!

Wyśmienity smak, chrupiąca skórka, puszyste ciasto i cudowne nadzienie...

Exquisite flavors, crispy crusts, fluffy dough and wonderful fillings… zapraszamy na wyjątkowe pączki oraz faworki do naszej cukierni.

Enjoy unique donuts and faworki from our own bakery lutego, Tłusty Czwartek - świętuj z nami the ostatni Join 12 us on February 12th, Mardi Gras, to celebrate last czwartek Thursday karnawału. of the ‘carnival’ 14 lutego zapraszamy na walentynkową kolację.

And how about Valentine’s night on February 14th: join us for a custom-designed menu composed by ourmamy chef Marcin Wojtczak Na tę okazję specjalne menu skomponowane przez naszego szefa kuchni Marcina Wojtczaka.

CENTER: ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68, open 7:00-22:00 ŻOLIBORZ: ul.Felińskiego 52, 47/49, tel. +48Warszawa, (22) 608 046 9:00-20:00 CENTRUM: ul. Żurawia tel.406, +48open (22) 621 82 68, godziny otwarcia: 7:00 - 22:00 www.smakiwarszawy.pl ŻOLIBORZ: ul.Felińskiego 52, Warszawa, tel. +48 608 046 406, godziny otwarcia: 9:00 - 20:00 www.smakiwarszawy.pl

in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town LAST MONTH IN NUMBERS

15 bln Złoty

The city’s budget for this year

36 mln Złoty

Raised by January’s WÓSP fundraising event

10.6 mln Passengers

Counted using Chopin Airport in 2014

1.4 mln Flowers

Revealed to have been planted in Warsaw in 2014

5,000 Złoty

WILDLIFE

ILLUSTRATION BY MARIA MILEŃKO

Walla-be Damned!

Police have warned that a love sick female kangaroo on the run in the city center could be dangerous and are warning members of the public not to approach her. Stefania, a two-yearold kangaroo, and her partner Stefan, escaped from a ‘mini zoo’ in the village of Dziekanów Leśny in east central Poland in October last year.

Stefan was later found dead after he was hit by a car, but Stefania made her way to the Polish capital Warsaw 11 miles (17.7 km) away where she has now been spotted by locals.

Stunned shopper Paweł Muszyński, 35, said: “I’d gone to a local market for some fruit when I saw a kangaroo hopping around in the background. I thought I was seeing things, but for sure I wasn’t as others saw it too.”

At first police treated the sightings with skepticism but are now warning locals to steer clear of the kangaroo as it could be dangerous. A police spokesman warned: “we have had notifications that the kangaroo has been seen at various locations around the city and we urge members of the public not to approach her but to call us instead. We understand that her partner was killed by a car and she can therefore be in mourning and present a threat to the public.” Mini-zoo owner Monika Okupska said: “it’s most likely our kangaroo. Fortunately for her, this year’s winter is fairly mild so she can cope and survive.” (EW)

The fine handed to organizers of the Nov 11 Independence march after it ended in riots

2,700 Square meters

The size of a trampoline park due to open in Warsaw this spring

215 Km / hr

The speed one Warsaw boy racer was clocked doing by police

10

‘Poo Buses’

Powered by methane gas to be introduced to Warsaw www.warsawinsider.pl

9

inFront

news

ADVERTISING

Wreck-lama

The MDM Hotel is facing an increasing backlash over its decision to prostitute itself and clad its epic façade with billboards. “The hotel management,” wrote one disgruntled visitor on Trip Advisor, “should decide whether they want to earn money from providing good service to their guests or from being a billboard stand, because they can’t do both.” In January, the national press reported that one international delegation had gone so far as to cancel their booking, claiming they didn’t want their international guests to view Warsaw from ‘behind a big rag’.

As public discontent grows, staff at the MDM have refused to comment other than claiming the advert in question is in accordance with the law.

TRANSPORT

Late… Again!

Having promised just before her re-election that the second metro line would open in December, Mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz-Waltz has admitted she’s none the wiser as to when it will be ready.

Dogged by delays, the six billion złoty project had originally been billed to launch in 2013. The latest postponement has been blamed on ongoing safety tests.

While some sources have suggested the new date is likely to be in March, city officials have remained tight-lipped.

Shorts

The leader of Rome’s Jewish community found himself arrested after being caught breaking OUT of Auschwitz.

Riccardo Pacifici and four colleagues had been filming a news report when they found themselves locked inside the camp. They were released several hours later, and then only after intervention from Italian diplomats.

A 9-meter-tall fiberglass statue of The Stig arrived in Warsaw at the end of January ahead of the February launch of BBC Brit. Stationed outside PKiN, the Polish public have been reassured that Big Stig means no harm. “Stay calm,” declared a notice on the Top Gear website, “back away quietly, and don’t feed him any Wotsits.”

Five Warsaw restaurants face closure after being targeted by jobsworth officials. Der Elefant, U Szwejka, St. Antonio, Kompania Piwna and Bazyliszek – all owned by Artur Jarczyński – face the ultimate punishment after selling a cider that had been labeled incorrectly. The case has left the public bewildered, with many citing the situation as the fault of the suppliers.

CITY

Stinky Mess

Newspaper columnist Agnieszka Kublik whipped up a storm over New Year after penning an article blasting a mother for changing her baby at a restaurant table. Writing for Gazeta Wyborzca, the journalist provoked an outcry from chest-beating militants, with her words quickly going viral across Poland. In spite of the outrage from feminists and liberals, her sentiments were lauded by many, with her story getting 1,600 Facebook likes in the first eight hours alone.

10

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

Restaurant Dom Polski invites you

Restauracja Dom Polski ul. Francuska 11 03-906 Warszawa Tel. 22 616 2488 / 22 616 2432 www.restauracjadompolski.pl restauracjadompolski@wp.pl

Photography Game of Drones

inFront

Drones are changing the face of photography, presenting unique takes on the city below.

This issue we talk to Kris and Monika of Z Naszej Perspektywy...

• Up till now drone technology was extremely expensive and hard-to-get – you had to build your own. Now you can buy ‘ready to fly’ drones, so I think we’ll see lots more in the future. They’re revolutionizing photography in that they give photographers the possibility to view the world from another perspective: even ‘normal’ places look brilliant from the sky. And while it sounds trivial, drones cut out the complexities connected with gaining access to the top of Warsaw’s skyscrapers.

• Warsaw offers so many opportunities to photographers – you can find something different each day, even in a place you feel familiar with. We love the contrasts offered by the city, the old mixed in with the modern. The drone gives us a chance to show Warsaw from an angle that’s unknown to many people. Sometimes I think it’d be great to have our own clones and clones of our drones!

• It doesn’t matter if we’re using our cameras or a drone, we want to show a new side to Warsaw, a ‘secret scene’ that’s yet to be presented. It isn’t easy. Some pictures that we plan don’t turn out, other times the shot looks horrible and

12

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

then all of a sudden the light will clear and you get a picture that really compels.

• When we bought our first drone it spent the first week in its box – it cost so much we were afraid to use it! Every spare minute was spent reading manuals and watching You Tube tutorials. When we finally felt ready we went to some fields in northern Warsaw and shot pictures of a thermal power plant. The results weren’t perfect in terms of quality but it was fascinating to see the city from this angle. From the ground we were just in a normal field, yet from the sky it looked amazing: something unnatural in the midst of the city.

• If we were to pick a favorite shot then it’d be of Most Siekierkowski. I love how on one side you have raw nature and on the other civilization and the well-known silhouette of the skyscrapers. Then connecting the two you have this massive monument of engineering – the bridge itself. It makes us feel proud of the city and proud of the picture!

Check Kris and Monika’s work at: znaszejperspektywy.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

13

inFront

Photography

Scaling New Heights

Since bursting onto the scene last year, Aleksandra Logusz, a.k.a Blogusz, has obtained a cult following for her daredevil photos taken from the top of Warsaw’s landmarks…

• My background is in journalism and PR, so out of respect for professionals I wouldn’t even call myself a photographer. I have taken no classes and am completely self-taught. I started off exploring the city with a camera last year, and because I didn’t feel comfortable invading people’s privacy I began taking pictures of places instead.

In doing so, I wanted to find new angles that would surprise people. I didn’t want to photograph the ‘obvious’. Originally, I ‘borrowed’ the camera my dad was given for his anniversary. He did wonder for a while how I was getting such shots from my iPhone!

• How do I get to the top of buildings? I use my charm! I have to stress, I never break the law: everything I do is legal. It requires a lot of patience, sometimes it takes months before I’m allowed access into a building. Then, finally, when you get to the top you find the weather isn’t right and the whole approval process starts again.

• I don’t get scared while shooting photos, I only really think about the risk when I’m back on ground level and looking through the pictures. Occasionally the shoots are

14

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

quite spontaneous: one time I was off to a date wearing this silky dress and ballet flats when I received a call giving me the go ahead to get into a building. It was only seven floors high but I found myself having to clear a one meter gap at the top between the window and the other side.

• I’ve only lived here for two and a half years, so I hope that my photography brings a fresh perspective on the city. I first visited in 1997 for a Michael Jackson concert and my impressions were of a grey, noisy town. Since then there’s been so many changes: looking out across the city it makes me so proud to see how Poland has developed.

• I get a lot of questions asking how I get into buildings. I always say, don’t do it – just look at my pictures and enjoy them. I don’t approve of shortcuts and don’t want to take responsibility for someone having an accident. I’m not some adrenaline junky – what concerns me is the aesthetic experience. And, you know what, I don’t take as many risks as you might think!

For more Blogusz click to: facebook.com/blogusz

www.warsawinsider.pl

15

BEST OF WARSAW AWARDS GALA

For the 11th year running, industry insiders gathered for our annual Best of Warsaw awards, held this time around in the Sofitel Warsaw. Attracting the city’s top restaurateurs and chefs, the event was the biggest and most successful to date – thanks to all who made it such a night to remember!

2014

16

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

www.warsawinsider.pl

17

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KAROLINA GMURCZYK

Best of

WARSAW

Family Achievement The Kręgliccy Family

T

here’s a clutch of restaurateurs that can claim to have built a ‘dynasty’ in Poland, yet none can match the Kręgliccy family in terms of scope and substance. Or longevity, even. It all began with the now defunct Mekong, launched

by Marcin Kręglicki in 1989. Inspired by the Asian cookbooks he would collect and covet as a youth in the 80s, Mekong was something an icebreaker in post-communist Poland.

Over time, he was joined by his sister, Agnieszka, who originally cut her teeth in the restaurant world working as a waitress

18

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

in Mekong. Together, the brother and sister team have since gone on to open scores of successful restaurants, among them Santorini, Chianti, the legendary El Popo and Opasły Tom – rated by many foodies as their favorite Warsaw restaurant.

Awards and accolades have been numerous, yet perhaps the ultimate honor arrived last year when they were picked to host a 500-person dinner to celebrate 25 years of Polish ‘freedom’.

The star guest? Barack Obama. A true family enterprise (interiors of their restaurants are apparently designed

by Marcin’s wife, Beata, while business advice comes courtesy of their parents), the Kręgliccy family are the personification of the modern day Polish success story.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ŁUKASZ ZANDECKI

SPECIAL AWARDS

2014 al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open daily 12:00 -22:00 More info: www.facebook.com/madraskuchniaindyjska

Best of

WARSAW

Slow Food Mover Aleksander Baron (Solec 44)

A

former graffiti artist, amateur boxer and one-time student of the Academy of Fine Arts (until he was chucked out), Aleksander Baron carries all the baggage of a rebel chef. While the hellraising may have come to an end, his restaurant reflects the character of a man who doesn’t bend to form. Not that you’d really call Solec 44 a restaurant…

Diners cross off their order on a piece of paper, before queuing up to hand it in at a bar stocked with craft beer and weird jars.

And in the background, there’s noise – the sound of people getting drunk, playing

20

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

board games and larking around. It is the sound of people having fun.

To some, that Solec doesn’t adhere to Warsaw norms has a tendency to eclipse what happens in the kitchen. This is a mistake. A crusader for Polish slow food, Baron was one of the first to put regional produce on our tables. “Good food needs good ingredients,” he shrugs by way of explanation, “you can’t make something good out of something bad.”

As mystifying as it sounds, it’s a point that evades quite a few.

“I believe there’s ‘energy’ in free range,” he continues, “I want to eat animals that have seen the sky, that have seen the grass.” Practicing this philosophy way before it came into fashion, this is a chef Warsaw should salute.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

SPECIAL AWARDS

Best of

WARSAW

SPECIAL AWARDS

One To Watch

Dariusz Barański (Concept 13)

T

here’s a few badly kept secrets in restaurant land, and none more so than Concept 13. Really, ask just about anyone with a cursory interest in the foodie scene where the best lunch deal is found and they’ll say Concept. It’s not just the price though that appeals (zł. 50 for five courses), it’s the result – a wonderful menu that goes far beyond the pork chop and chips found on the lunch offers of other restaurants. Here, it’s the opposite – cooking as true art.

The man behind it is Dariusz Barański, an innovative creator schooled at household

22

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

names like La Gavroche, Claridges and Sketch (as in the London venue, not the ghastly Warsaw tap bar). “He’s gone beyond composing just a brilliant menu,” says our secret contact at Froblog, “he creates a new one each and every day – just imagine, the skill, and talent necessary to do that from scratch day in, day out.”

Respected by his peers, TV chef Joseph Seeletso is tipping him for greatness. “I remember asking Wojciech [Amaro] once who he thought Poland’s next Michelin chef would be,” continues Seeletso, “and in a heartbeat he namechecked Barański.” And who are we to question the opinion of the patriarch of Polish chefs. Visit and visit soon – consider yourself told.

Institution

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie

T

he word ‘institution’ is over-used to the point it’s become trivialized. But if there’s one restaurant in Warsaw worthy of such a term, then let that be the Belvedere. Back in the mid-90s, when the Insider was still in shorts, the city was a Mordor-like place cast from Soviet concrete. Since then it’s been polished, paved, brushed and buffed. Yet even before this remarkable rehabilitation, there were glimpses of what it could become – and that was provided by Belvedere.

Long recognized as one of nation’s top restaurants, its historic location has always

been a boon: a 150 year old imperial orangery complete with nonchalant peacocks and curious squirrels.

Even in those dark days, there was a fairytale quality to this stately venue.

But a magical location is not a guarantee of much. Belvedere’s success stems from a refusal to sit back and rest on its laurels.

Last year saw the interiors reinvigorated by acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, giving Belvedere a contemporary look while never losing sight of its roots and tradition. And providing the perfect match is a menu authored

by Adam Komar. His modern interpretations of classic Polish cooking are a joy, and best admired via a tasting menu that’s noted for its complex twists and original eye. www.warsawinsider.pl

23

VALENTINE’S ESSENTIAL WARSAW

Bubbles

It’s Valen-Time…

V.D is upon us! No, not the nasty thing saucy sailors catch on shore leave, but Valentine’s Day. The Insider weighs up your options…

Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 You expect a champagne bar to be full of hollering yahoos and grunting bankers. Not so in Bubbles. Here’s an intimate bolt hole whose warmth matches itself perfectly to February canoodling. Gaze at your love while the owner, Tomek, flies between tables uncorking vintage champagne with a theatrical flourish. While you’re there, add a little ooh la la to the evening with a bowl of Mazurian farmed snails.

Wall of Hearts

ul. Dawna Bookended by two archways, this cobbled little side-alley is a postcard favorite. Declare your never-ending love by scratching your initials with a house key on ‘the wall of hearts’ that runs down the side. It sure beats the lovelock fad.

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15 Cocoon yourself in luxury at the H15, Warsaw’s premier choice of fancypants lodgings. The magic begins on the ground floor, with a glass-roofed lobby featuring a 110-year old Argentinean fussball table. But you’ll be wanting a saucy time upstairs, inside contemporary rooms furnished with Italian trimmings.

For Valentine’s Day, think about one of the pretty-in-pink suites.

24

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

Park Ujazdowski

Al. Ujazdowskie Łazienki gets the press, but there’s no doubting the perfectly formed Park Ujazdowski is Warsaw’s dreamiest green space. Find decorative street lamps, ponds and alcoves set amid intricately clipped gardens, as well as the park’s calling card: a quaint stone bridge designed by English engineer William Lindley. It feels beautifully melancholic under a dense winter fog.

Kino Muranów

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT, MODEL NATALIA HUBER

ul. Andersa 5 With most local cinemas appealing to people who want gawk zombie-like at joyless Hollywood trash, Kino Muranów is a pleasing antidote. Reeling in punters since 1951, its unconventional repertoire provokes whispered debate between intellectual couples. Of course, you can always ignore the film and have a grubby grope on the back row instead.

Panorama Bar

Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel) There are those who claim the most romantic view in Warsaw is found peering down from the Palace of Culture. Defriend such morons now. For the same price as access to the PKiN viewing platform you get the same sights plus a rather nice cocktail in the Marriott’s top floor bar: and you won’t be battered by the winter winds.

Teatr Wielki

Pl. Teatralny 1 Feeling swish? Dress up and head for a night at the opera.

By western standards, ticket prices are a steal, and the Grand Theater ranks amongst Poland’s best. For something that’s all stars and sequins, look out for their opening night premiers.

Evening Walk

ul. Agrykola On a misty night, when halos of light form around the 19th century gas lamps, Agrykola represents Warsaw’s most romantic stroll. There’s a sense of timelessness and seclusion that belies its central map coordinates.

And if your walk finishes with a meal at Atelier Amaro (bookings essential), then so much the better.

Old Town Ice Rink

Rynek Starego Miasto With most skaters heading to the National Stadium to do their twirls, the Old Town rink is often surprisingly empty, lending it an enchanting, ethereal quality. Gliding over the ice handin-hand, with lights twinkling above and snowflakes drifting down, is a memorable experience. After, huddle over a mulled wine from one of the wooden chalets that frame the rink.

www.warsawinsider.pl

25

I (HEART) WARSAW

26

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

The Polish capital will never compete with the aesthetic pleasures of Kraków and Prague or the three Baltic sisters. And yet, why is it, you get the impression that none of its residents really care a jot. Beyond Warsaw’s spotty skin lies a personality like no other. This issue we talk to six long-term residents about what it is that makes it so special…

www.warsawinsider.pl

27

I (HEART) WARSAW

Alex Webber Editor of the Warsaw Insider

On my first day in Warsaw, two tigers escaped from the circus and were running around Praga. While waiting for the cops, local shopkeepers took to pursuing the animals with broomsticks. Imagine that.

When the police did finally turn up, they shot a vet who was on the scene. Crazy. You don’t get that back in Bristol I thought. I like telling that tale, but it pales into insignificance to the ones I hear on an everyday basis. From outrageous expat yarns to painful truths from Uprising survivors, I’ve heard it all and loved it more. This city, its people, their stories: if ever I leave, I’ll remember them forever.

All my other vices are out in the open, so if I was asked to reveal a secret addiction I’d say collecting history books. But living in Warsaw, you don’t need books, the history is out there on the streets. You get those strange winter sunsets sometimes, when the sky flushes scarlet, and you can almost feel the sadness of the past pushing down on the city. Yet there’s an intense pride in this heritage. W-Hour on August 1, when the city stands in silence in memory of the rising, is a moment when the top lip wobbles. You feel connected to the city. To see a major capital come to a complete pause is surreal, spectacular and profoundly moving.

I find nighttime special here, how different the city looks and feels. You don’t notice the concrete, just the glints of neon and the glow of the bars. Sitting in the back of a taxi, watching Warsaw whizz by in a blur, I feel like Iggy Pop’s Passenger: ‘riding through the city’s backsides’. The city feels exciting, enigmatic, a bit seedy and smudged. It’s intoxicating.

28

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

Aga Zaryan Singer, zaryan.com

The older I get the more sentimental I become. My love for Warsaw just keeps growing – sometimes I just wander around the city on foot or by bike. I’m always happy to end up in Rozbrat 20: the food is delicious, with a French twist but also strong Polish roots. It’s great all times of the day: from morning breakfast to a more elegant dinner.

Not far away, I never miss the chance to drop in for coffee and check out the new books at Czuły Barbarzyńca. It’s got a great vibe that’s perfect for just lounging around with a book in your lap. Everything about it makes it a brilliant escape from the world outside.

I really recommend ice skating in the National Stadium. The music doesn’t sound good at all here, in fact the acoustics are really awful, but Warsaw on ice feels completely incredible.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

Daniel Radtke Owner of Pardon, To Tu, pardontotu.pl

I moved here 13 years ago from a small town in northern Poland – at first it was to work for a big corporation, then to work in the theater.

Finally, I opened Pardon. So through these different stages in life I’ve viewed the city through different eyes. I love Café Próżna very much, but you know what, it was only until I signed the contract for Pardon that I realized Pl. Grzybowski was on the doorstep. I’d never ventured there before. The atmosphere is special here and also in Pardon, but you know, I could never begin to define the secret ingredient.

When we have foreign musicians, if there’s time I’ll always try and take them to ul. Agrykola. I realize that’s a conservative choice, but I love it there: you never see another human, all you have is silence. That’s what I

like. I don’t listen to music at home, and I can’t tell you a favorite street because all I see is noise and cars. For fourteen hours a day I’m surrounded by people and music, so outside of that world I just look for silence and solitude.

I met Ykos, my dog, in 2008. It was after a premier at a theater I was working in out in Praga. Myself and the director saw him sitting alone outside at like 1.30 a.m. “You can’t just leave him there,” said the director, so that was it, I took him home.

I’d never had a dog before. Eventually I tracked down the owner, an 18-year old girl, and by this time I didn’t want to give him back. “Look,” she said, “I think he found you.” He’s still frightened of being left alone, which is why I take him everywhere – he’s here [in the bar] for that reason, not because

I wanted to use him as some ‘pub toy’. He goes everywhere, even to the cinema. People recognize him and they’re always calling out, ‘hey, Ykos’.

I feel like the invisible man sometimes but I’m fine with that! Anyway, here’s a nice story: when we were looking for his owner I took him to the vet who said, “that’s an English Setter you’ve got there.” They’re quite uncommon here so he gave me a contact to another owner. I went to meet this guy in Kabaty, and after 30 minutes he said, “you know what, the dog you have is actually called ‘Bruce’ and I own his sister!” He even showed me videos of Ykos playing as a three week old puppy! Strangely, after all these years, we think the two dogs recognized each other. They sat down facing one another, just looking each other deep in the eye.

Amazing. www.warsawinsider.pl

29

I (HEART) WARSAW

Paul Cowen Owner of Pure Sky Club, pureskyclub.com

30

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

What I love about Warsaw is the opportunities it has: if you’ve got a plan, you can succeed. One of our members, a lady from Katowice, she started off as recruitment consultant – now she’s just built a hospital, lives in Miami and employs 3,000 people.

But there’s people like that all over the city. You feel how Poland is growing. We started in Warsaw seven years ago and sure, it took time, but we’re finally where we want to be.

a business then it really helps when people are open to you, and we do find that here. I’ve noticed they’re not so nice to each other though! I love the people aspect of Pure. We’ve got 42 ambassadors as members, and I get to ‘interview’ them all. The Sri Lankan ambassador was asking if I recognize him – turns out he’s only a former international cricketer from that era round the time of David Gower!

There’s the Polish people, as well.

I think they’re warm to foreigners in general, but especially to the English – who knows, maybe because of history. If you’re running

You can really notice the energy of this town – it’s unique. You feel this is a city going places, moving forward.

I’m certain Warsaw will become a major capital force.

Przemek Kaczkowski Architect / owner at StoProcent, stoprocentarchitekci.pl

The wooden ‘Finnish Houses’ on Jazdów have me under a spell: such an idyllic atmosphere, but also kind of surreal when you remember they’re in the hardcore center of a capital city. In terms of architecture, I also love the Iluzjon Cinema building. What grabs me is its form and location: a real surprise in an area of predictable, boring buildings built at right angles. To be honest though, I ‘envy’ all the Socialist Realist structures: they become ‘classic’ so easily. I doubt that anyone in the future will get emotional about any of the architecture from the 90s. On the other end of the scale, there’s a real bit of fear connected to the HQ of the National Defense Ministry (al. Niepodległości 218). God knows how many windows it has, but I’m sure it’s how the Ministry of Truth would have looked like in George Orwell’s 1984. There’s something evil about it.

My office is located on Oleandrów, a short dead-end street that binds Marszałkowska with Polna. I remember a time, not long back, when it was a bit of a forgotten back alley. The most interesting thing about it was a garage that specialized in fixing Trabants and Wartburgs. That’s all history and Oleandrów has become a lively nook with hipster bars, pop-up stores, funny restaurants: all the new stuff that defines Warsaw is here, just on a smaller scale.

Kępa Potocka Park is particularly special. It’s got everything the city center usually lacks: greenery, shade, a lake and silence. I’ve moved several times but Kępa is always close. I go there in all seasons, whether it’s to jog, walk the dog, kayak, fish or just drink beer and sunbathe. A few years ago Kępa received a special gift: a sparkling pink neon by Maurycy Gomulicki. Now it’s even sexier!

Agnieszka Grzybek Co-leader of the Polish Green Party & female activist

As someone who was born and raised here I find Warsaw a very specific city that’s incomparable to any other European capital. That’s because of its harrowing history: you can feel it in every stone, brick and even square meter. As a small child I grew up in the Muranów district, a place built on top of the Ghetto and scarred with suffering. I still remember the stories my grandmother told that taught me about the ambivalence of history. I wish we could remember the diversity of Warsaw’s past more.

Now I live in Praga, which is still commonly perceived as the ‘poor sister’ to the left side of Warsaw. It gets less attention from the city authorities, but on the other hand it feels more authentic and that makes for a unique atmosphere. It’s becoming increasingly attractive to artists, as well as people with money looking for ‘something different, something special’. There’s a danger it might become a victim of gentrification and push out the people who’ve lived here all their lives. Without these native inhabitants, Praga would lose its identity. For the time being I say to people, if ever you want to taste a different side to Warsaw, then cross the river and check out Praga.

www.warsawinsider.pl

31

LISTINGS RESTAURANTS 38 CAFES & WINE BARS 63 NIGHTLIFE 66 SHOPPING 71 FAMILY 74 HEALTH & BEAUTY 78 IN THE CITY 82 Pictured: Karmello

IN CAFES Choco Loco The cocoa lords have come to town! For fans of chocolate, there’s never been a sweeter time to be in the capital…

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

p. 63

32

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

REVIEWS

Jamón High

i

No need to trek to Spain, it is that good...

love the GF, I really do, but there are moments I really don’t want her around. Like, for instance, when I’m dining out. Not because I’m anti-social, you understand, but because good restaurants transform me into a greedy, selfish swine. “Don’t touch,” I find myself admonishing, “I ordered that, it’s mine.” And that, in short, is pretty much the story of our night in Jamón. The evening becomes a cat and mouse game, her making furtive raids on plates (my plates), and me defending them.

The truth is Jamón surprised me. I wasn’t expecting much. Firstly, because Spanish food remains so hit and miss here, and secondly, because I find the area a bit of a charisma vacuum. But here I am, proved wrong once again. The place itself looks the biz – a pristine white townhouse lit with elegant violet spotlights. Inside, custom made artwork presents swirling senoritas against an interior that’s based around a naval color palette and reclaimed wood touches. It’s a big place as well, extending downstairs to an even larger basement area, but one that never loses its sense of intimacy. In fact, it’s perfect for ‘date night’.

There’s an onus on authenticity, and that’s evidenced by the four Spaniards found in the kitchen. Ordering a series of dishes, we find no weak point. There is not a box that goes un-ticked. This applies to a tranche of black Alaskan cod, a separate slate of Galician octopi with ‘truffle aroma’ and a tuna tataki with ponzu sauce and refreshing hints of citrus. Then a shank of lamb arrives, slow-roasted for ten

hours so it falls off the bone. It’s so soft you could cut it with a spoon.

And then there’s the pile of Huelva prawns. Ugly sods these are, but my God they’re tasty. Eating them is a messy process that involves squelching their heads right off, but they’re a joy. This is Spanish cooking in its more pure and perfect form.

But forced to pick a moment that defines the night, then it’d be dessert: a white chocolate cream that’s deep, rich and velvety, its flavors rolling like a vintage wine. And speaking of wine, yes, there has been wine. But it’s outshone by a bottle of Inedit – a ‘wheat and barley beer’ created in collaboration between the Damm brewery and the world’s most celebrated chef: Ferran Adria. True, it’s not exactly the benchmark in brewing you’d expect, but it’s a clean, solid drop for the food that’s in front.

So yes, Jamón is a success. Unlike many of Warsaw’s newer restaurants, it doesn’t try and reinvent the wheel, and it feels all the better for it. There is certainly invention and creativity involved, but Jamón’s calling card is its honesty – it takes the simple, Spanish dishes that we all know and love and then replicates them faithfully. There’s no bastardizing, no Polonization. This is food as it should be and you should see for yourself. (AW) Jamón

ul. Wierzbowa 9, tel. 22 692 4223, open 12:00-23:00, jamon.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

33

REVIEWS Behind Closed Doors To many, Mokotowska is little more than a place of niche boutiques and luxury spas. But the real pull of this micro-district right now? That’ll be its nightlife. Slowly, an increasing number of hangouts are slotting inside ground floor units creating a buzz along this elegant strip.

Not that you’ll find 6 Cocktails by scanning street level. Taking its lead from the New York fad for covert bars, the 6 adventure begins in front of a heavy arched gate. Ringing the bell we await the buzz of approval. There’s anticipation in the air and a heavy sense of secrecy. With access gained, the door thuds behind us and the long walk begins up dark flights of stairs. Footsteps echo in the half-light. It’s a movie moment: Eyes Wide Shut.

Just as I’m reaching panting point, we arrive to the correct floor. Another knock and the door creaks open. We are in. Immediately, there is a feeling we have been granted entry to a clandes-

tine world. The design is understated, but at the same time sultry and sensual. Set inside a rambling apartment, a wall of pedigree alcohol adorns one side, while branching outwards are a series of chambers: a shadowy smoking lounge with low leather sofas; a ladies bathroom with a corner bathtub.

It’s hard to pin an era on this place: the floor in one room is an original work from 1905. You expect Hepburn to glide in or Gatsby to jump on the bar and fling banknotes in the air. But instead, we are approached by Enyo, a 20-year old law student.

Having inherited the property from his grandmother, he is also the owner. “I lived here for 13 years,” he says, “the cloakroom we have, that was my bedroom.” Immensely likeable, he’s a natural charmer with a passion for his project.

Much of the interior detail was assembled personally, while his bar staff were gathered following a six month hunt: “I had to have people who understood what I was trying to do,” he explains.

His patience has reaped dividends, for in Maciej and Kuba the venue has two solid pillars on which to lean. Their bespoke cocktails are a work of art: pedigree ingredients and immaculate presentation.

“It’s like a house party,” grins the photographer, “only with brilliant liquor.” Of all the surprises, however, it is the very feel of 6 that impresses the most. There is an air of exclusivity, of course there is, but this never translates into sneery scoffs.

There’s a disarming mystery to the venture that makes you dwell a little longer – “oh yes,” smiles Enyo, “we’ve had people stay till 8 a.m.” You can see why. (AW) To join the invite list, message them on facebook: facebook.com/6cocktails

34

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

www.warsawinsider.pl

35

REVIEWS Pictured: Bukieciarnia

In Shopping: The Green Room For scarlets and violets this Valentine’s, stalk out Warsaw’s top petal pushers for some flowers from the heart…

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

p. 71

36

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

2014

Presenting the true tastes of Spain, at TAPAS Gastrobar enjoy a meal that’s as much about sharing and connecting with the rest of your group as it is enjoying pedigree flavors that sing with authenticity. Welcome to the ultimate in good mood dining.

www.warsawinsider.pl

37

restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED

Best of Warsaw Award Winner

BLUE PLATE CHICKEN (Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18) The aim at Blue Plate is to combine slow food with soul food: a big call that, surprisingly, goes completely to plan. Take the breakfast, for instance.

They serve the full English, and unlike others, do a very good job: proper sausages (rather than skinny little Frankfurters) & bacon and even a dollop of black pudding. Onto other dishes and there’s chicken wings with delicious homemade sauces, strips and assorted bits and pieces. Insider note: No liquour license at time of printing.

african american asian balkan & russian burgers cuban french german greek & turkish indian international italian japanese & sushi latin & mexican middle eastern polish specialty food shops steak houses

32 33 33 35 36 38 38 39 39 40 42 49 53 54 56 56 59 60

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

HALKA RESTAURCJA PO POLSKU (ul. Puławska 43, restauracjahalka. pl) Named in honor of one of Poland’s best known operas, Halka offer a glimpse of old school Warsaw. Having relocated from downtown Pańska, the new address is a cut and paste of the former location: lots of glinting surfaces, ornate crockery and pink flower arrangements. Innovation is surrendered for a menu that deals in classic interpretations of upmarket Polish food: rabbit, goose, duck and other animals shot on country estates.

38

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

african Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, open 10:00-23:00, www.cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $

listings / restaurants american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00 Upstairs it’s a burger joint, one of Warsaw’s best. Downstairs gets a bit more creative, with a modern American menu presented in a monochrome basement space filled with pics of Brooklyn Bridge.

We’ve heard stories of big changes behind the scenes – we’ll be back next issue with the full story. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, open 12:00-24:00, www. champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, www.hardrockcafe. pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff

of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$

asian Basil & Lime (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, open 11:00-23:00, www.basil-lime.pl Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo.

Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? $$

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:3023:00; Sun 12:30-22:00, www.cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$

China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.chinagarden.pl Bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws.

Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for the brave. Allegedly the first Jiangsu restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes here are indeed unique. The China Garden isn’t the Imperial Palace, but the décor of straightbacked chairs and densely constructed wood tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging about here; serious eating is afoot! On the whole the dishes are delicate and delicious, and there are more cautious choices. my’o’tai ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter on Górskiego), tel.

662 742 901, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00, Sun 12:00-21:00 While the menu lacks standard Thai dishes (no noodles!?), the tastes are thoroughly authentic and a credit to chef Trisno Hamidis. The caramelized spicy chicken wings are so good you’ll think about ordering them twice. $$ Natara Old Town (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501, open 11:00-23:00, www.natara.pl Last year saw Natara considerably outgunned by the competition, but it remains a top Thai choice.

Set inside the old town walls, the exterior looks magical, so it’s disappointing to find an interior that’s all dowdy brown and droopy plants. The food though remains consistently good thanks to an owner who is committed to true Thai tastes. $$

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Cesarski Palace has thrived in Warsaw for 18 years – from the outset we were the first to offer authentic Chinese dishes, including our signature Peking Duck which comes baked in a custom-made oven and served with pancakes, cucumbers, por and a special sauce.

Expect personalized service and special attention from the chef inside a restaurant sensitive to Feng Shui requirements. There’s nothing comparable to our perfect tastes!

www.warsawinsider.pl

39

listings / restaurants Naam Thai ul. Saska 16, tel. 505 110 100, open Mon 16:00-23:00; Tue-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:30 An anonymous design and an out-of-center location have done nothing to hurt Naam’s reputation as Warsaw’s best Thai.

Bangkok-born Chanunkan Duangkumma is the reason for this success, and her duck soup – made according to a secret family recipe – is full of spices, depth and exciting twists. Book ahead to avoid disappointment. $$ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, open 12:00-

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

24:00, www.papaya.waw.pl A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya has a varied menu that uses influences from all over Asia, though particularly Thailand. But the star attraction is Preecha Wongsomboon, a Thai chef who fuses cookery with cabaret from behind a teppanyaki grill – his skills draw gasps. But between the honking horns and nifty knife work it becomes clear this is no novelty show: the food is top notch. $$ Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera. com.pl The center pin is a semi-circular bar, above which lamps hang from a ceiling made out of old Coca-Cola crates. There’s palm fronds, mismatching seats, cheerful colors, exposed pipes and industrial chains.

Sacks of Haruka rice adorn one end, and on the other there’s floor-to-ceiling windows.

It feels right, as does the food – a confident combination of sushi and Thai. We ordered fried beef, and were dealt a generous portion full of pleasing, punchy tastes, sticky rice and a deep, aromatic sauce. Just as good is the green tea ice cream, both cleansing and delicious. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.suparomthaifood.pl Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II al. Wilanowska 309, tel. 22 853 3087, open 10:00-21:00, www.suparomthaifood. pl Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming.

Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, open 12:00-23:00, www.thaithai.pl The loss of the original chef, Sanad Changpuen, has had a ripple-down effect on the final product. There’s a competence to the dishes, but a basic lack of fire and dazzle. It’s decent enough for Warsaw, but those who’ve had the real thing leave underwhelmed. What a shame that is, because in terms of design its little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black

40

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. $$ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307, open Mon-Fri 9:30-21:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:30 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.whythai.pl A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the notes one expects. $$

balkan & russian Restauracja Gruzja (D4) ul. Chmielna 5, tel. 729 460 761, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, smakigruzji.pl So good that our Georgian connection claims it to be every bit as good as back home.

The khachapuri wins big points, but so too the badrijani – eggplant slices rolled and filled with a mix of walnuts and Georgian spices. And then there’s the chinkali, every Georgian’s favorite dough purse of broth and meaty goodness. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, open Mon 11:30-20:00; Tue & Wed 11:30-21:00; Thu & Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures. $ Yugo (B4) ul. Sienna 83 (enter from Żelazna), tel.

694 109 379, open 12:00-20:00 You feel alive just being here: big on Colgate white colors, vintage tourist agency posters and bright stickers, Yugo is just about the cheeriest eatery you’ll come across on a dour winter’s day. Presenting the food of the former Yugoslavia, this Balkan bolt hole specializes in meaty dishes served in traditional bread. $

2014

To quote an unknown source, traditional Polish food is a celebration of ‘heritage, culture, singing and vodka.’ But snooty Warsaw doesn’t do traditional, at least not in the same way tourist havens like Kraków do. So it’s a joy to find Folk Gospoda.

Good humored and filled with gnarled furniture and mountain songs, it’s a place where warm memories are made.

www.warsawinsider.pl

41

listings / restaurants burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; 13:0021:00, www.barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with names such as Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their frequent eating competitions. $ Brooklyn Burgers & Wings (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 270 2144, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 People come here in droves, lured by a menu finessed by American / Polish chef Alan Bohinski. Not here meat and ketchup explosive devices that detonate all over your trousers, instead find neatly formed burgers made with prime Polish beef that’s ground onsite. And while you won’t need them, it’s a nice touch that they come served with disposable gloves.

Delicious homemade sauces, ribs and wings add to the draw. $ Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska), tel. 780 094 076, open Tue-Thu 12:0021:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00, burgerbar.waw. pl Warsaw’s first legitimate burger spot was the talk of the town when it first opened up in 2012, only to have its thunder stolen when 100 copycats opened in their trail. But this lot have kept plugging away, sticking to their guns with little song and dance. Intimate and unassuming, it’s for good reason they’ve retained a loyal core of fans – if the words masterpiece can be applied to a burger, then their green chili burger is just that. $

they’re most certainly up there. $

choosing), inventive mains and desserts that are heaven. $$

Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

Le Bistro Rozbrat (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 22 881 7808, open 12:00-24:00. The signs suggest that Powiśle is set to mature even further this year, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food. The concise menu has token nods to Spanish cuisine, as well as a steak bavette that’s being raved about on the blogs. $$

cuban El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994. Open Mon-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-1:00; Sun 12:30-22:30 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

french

Taste Burger (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22/28, open 12:00-22:00, tasteburger.pl Set in the pavilion bars behind Nowy Świat, Taste Burger use seasoned beef and pride themselves on their ‘honest’ ingredients. Their growing popularity is evidence of a philosophy that works.

ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732, www. stalowa52.pl, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:30-22:00 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings. It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic – our vol au vent starter was dry and devoid of taste, while the chocolate ‘cream’ dessert was a runny, ugly looking disappointment. But there is potential: the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a wellexecuted orange and caramel sauce. $$

Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Sat 12:0020:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for pimped-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best,

L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, open 10:00-last guest, www.larc.pl A place of considered elegance, subtle decorations and monochrome colors. They’re especially noted for their obsessive attitude towards seafood (pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your

42

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne (D3) ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria), tel. 22 657 8332, open MonSat12:00-24:00, www.sofitel-victoriawarsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. Always leave room for dessert, especially the ‘pear trio’ – delicate and refreshing and with the right hint of sweet.

german Adler (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, www.adlerrestauracja.pl Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

greek & turkish Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, open 12:00-last guest, www.paros-restauracja.pl Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El

listings / restaurants www.groole.pl You’ll find potatoes served Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent everywhere in aPoland, not in we – visit revealed kitchenjust resting onthe its way laurels like i.e.,on with crunchy, skin$$ and not them: one plate oura table wascrispy finished. lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such Santorini as cherry tomatoes chicken curry. ul.spicy Egipska 7, tel.

22 672or 0525, open dailyA $ www.kregliccy.pl/santorini/ revelation!

12:00-23:00, Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s Hummus Bar (B4) a bonhomie present that instantly engages. ul. tel. 723 223, open like TheŻelazna kitchen64, attaches no058 value to things 11:00-19:00, presentation, www.hummsubar.pl preferring instead to Much simplylike the green interior, the concept is simple treatlime diners to piles of grilled and skewered and falafel andthe foodstraightforward: that consistentlyhummus, tastes right – and fresh breads served$$to a busy lunchtime milfeipitta dessert is magic. crowd. There’s nothing more to say other than utterly delicious. $ Sofrait’s (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731, open MonKurczaki (D7) Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Oleandrów 8, openOn Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 the design front it’s Fri-Sat If you of like your birds spitalmost12:00-24:00 a straight plagiary Charlotte: white roasted then look no further than Kurczaki, brickwork, blackboard and communal table. aSo budget eatery here whose specialty chicken. the surprise is the food –isTurkish.

Wait it out in any sweltering before And not just Turkish,temperatures but brilliant Turkish! being rewarded bybut acethere’s chickena cooked in It’s nothing fancy, real honest varying sizes styles: depending on the quality to theand moussaka and lamb and beef

Krucza 24/26, Warsaw Tel. 516 817 855 www.batlazar.warszawa.pl facebook.com/baltazarbymondovino

day, that could mean beer orare in Thai or in tomato sauce.

The in desserts a real Jamaican spoiler assauces. well. $ $ Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, open Sun-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:0023:00, Originally founded Bombajwww.manekin.pl Masala (B3) in this pancake house chain777, is a Al.Toruń, Jana Pawła II 23, tel.

606 688 national phenomenon – at times, queues open 11:00-23:00, www.bombajmasala.pl for a table outside.

The menu touts in One of thesnake best looking Indian restaurants dozens pancake options in sweet Warsaw,ofbut the food rarelyserved pokes above avand savory (there’s even aitself spaghetti erage.

For aform cuisine that prides on rich, version…), and most agree worth the intense tastes, Bombaj getsthey’re remembered for ridiculous - waits in excess of bland, oilywaiting dishes times that only sometimes get 20 minutes considerably the finished.

Yet(and business remainsmore) brisk,are thanks norm. in part$to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$ Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat Buddha (D4)10:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.meatlove.pl ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel.Not 22 826 ones to stagnate, Meat Love have expanded 3501, open Sun-Thu 11:00in size, meaning there’s now plenty of room 23:00; Fri&Sat 11:00-24:00, to sample theirwww.buddha.info.pl artisan sandwiches The – the days roast willrecreated make yourinknees tremble. of thebeef Raj are Buddha, a fine-But

indian

with thiscurry weather, most to theinteriors shaded looking house withhead intricate pavement terrace.

Do soThe as well, and with a and top-drawer curries. murgh masala craft beer for jhodphur is acompany. favorite of$ours though the real plus here is the consistency: it’s always a Mr. Pancake solid bet. $ (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, open MonSat 11:00-10:00; Chmielarnia (B4) Sun 12:00-8:00, www.mrpancake.pl You’relevel), just going to love ul. Twarda 42 (basement tel. 725 their pancakes, with their11:00-24:00; fun, wacky look 010 271, open Mon-Thu Fri and creative toppings (M&Ms,Sun funny faces 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; 11:00traced icing sugar, and lots ofNot choco24:00,with www.chmielarnia.waw.pl only latey They’rehouse the sort of pancakes doesstuff).

Chmielarnia some of the world’s you’d get if (see Bart Simpson best beers Nightlife),got butstoned also – and as the decided make some – brilliant. shrine bytothe door may food suggest – a very$good restaurant. Sure, you’re eating in a dark and Okienko loud beer(D7) cellar (to us that’s a bonus), but ul.

22, open 9:00-22:00; thePolna Nepalese chef,Mon-Thu Ram, knows what he’s Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; doing.

And aside from Indian andSun Nepalese 13:00-20:00 Belgian-style frites served in staples, there’s a menu tailor-made for the paper cones right $ from out of a street-side beer swiggers. hatch. Yes they’re good, but they’re bettered by the sauces Curry House that are written up in marker pen on the wall tiles.

With508 money ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel.

870 exchanged, 774 & al. do the0689, upturned left on Kenyour 47,eating tel. 22on 213 opencrates daily 11:00the sidecurryhouse.com.pl of the curb. $ 22:00, A primitive design

•An open kitchen and an open-minded cuisine •A handpicked selection of 150 wines •The Budnik brothers bring you their Author’s cuisine: modern European with a French Accent www.warsawinsider.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

43 43

listings / restaurants (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows) and far-flung location have not hindered Curry House one bit. It’s a legend, not least for their vindaloo – a macho dish that provokes spontaneous combustion. Be warned: no beer. $ Himalaya Momo (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 36, tel. 22 297 2100, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-21:30, www.himalayamomo.com There’s only four tables here, so don’t linger. The size means several staples have been cut from the menu, among them naan bread – there’s no space for a tandoor oven, you see. What kind of Indian restaurant forgets a tandoor oven? In this case, a very good one. What does appear on the Tibetan / Indian menu is usually delicious. $ Madras (B3) Al. Solidarnosci 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open 11:00-22:00 Even before you enter, you smell Madras: a pungent aroma that wafts gloriously over gloomy Solidarnośći. Looking

44

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

humble, unassuming, and even a little seedy, this microscopic venue is as far removed from refined as it gets. For all that, those who love Indian food refuse to go anywhere else for their curry – full of intense flavors and bold spicing, the vindaloo is a near death experience: even your hair feels like it’s on fire. As the burning euphoria subsides, you’re left basking in that blissful glow all hotheads will know. Note: no alcohol license. $ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 22 428 44 54, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 Remember the cheap curries you once scoffed as a student? Well Mandala offers something similar. Immense portions, low prices and an efficient delivery service ensure plenty of custom, but the food is, at best, nothing more than ordinary. On a bad day, you might feel a little queasy. $ Mr India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open Mon-Sat

10:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. mrindia.pl Opened by the creators of Curry House, Mr India touts the same menu but an interior that’s a substantial upgrade to its older sibling. As with the original, the spicy dishes could floor an elephant. It’s become a lifeline for Brits shipwrecked in Ursynów. $$ Parivar al. Waszyngtona 75, tel. 22 393 4104, open 11:00-22:00, www.parivar.pl The squid sizzler has the taste and texture of that chewing gum you found stuck under the bus seat, whil e the vindaloo is cunningly disguised as a bowl of red water with some chicken floating about. “I get better curry on the oil rigs,” opined the Insider’s official balti boy.

For all of that, the biggest disappointment is Parivar’s apparent success. $ Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look, while the shaded courtyard garden is

listings / restaurants one of the best about town. The real credit for Rain’s resuscitation though belongs to the kitchen: our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in any Indian restaurant.

And the mains continue the form with a magnificent lamb tikka masala. The tiffin lunch deals are outstanding as well. $$ Rani Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, open 11:00-22:00, rani.com.pl Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a self-confessed foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint chutney – wonderful.

Rani will also please the traditionalists, with everything from creamy kormas to vindaloo’s that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. $$ Rasoi (C5) ul. Chmielna 98, tel. 729 392 172, open 11:00-22:00 While you may be able to see it from Złote Tarasy, good luck getting there in under ten minutes. But the location aside, there’s something very promising here. Good, well-priced curries inside a charmingly tacky interior of colorful cushions and a collection of trinkets. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22 825 2375, open 12:00-22:30, www.tandoor.com. pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen not just the interior modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup before moving onto the chicken tamarind or the chicken sholay kebab.

Coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table.

Traditionalists will also approve: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable butter chicken tikka masala. After a couple of years in the doldrums, Tandoor is back with a bang. $$

international 2 Światy (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel.

534 325 325, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 13:002:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 A restaurant, bar

and hangout, 2 Światy blurs boundaries by presenting a competent drinks list alongside a small but well-formed menu that includes several after-midnight options. The design is urban and concrete, well-suited to the trendy Żurawia address.

Akademia (E9) ul. Różana 2, tel. 22 828 99 11, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www.restauracjaakademia.pl The most high profile launch of 2013, with whole sections of the street blocked off to keep the beautiful people from being molested by the public.

But while the prevailing attitude is snooty, chef Grzegorz Nowakowski has done an excellent job on an artfully simple menu that fits seamlessly with the white-on-white interiors. $$ A Nóż (D9) ul. Różana 30, tel. 608 386 388, open daily 9:00-23:00, www.anoz.pl ‘A Jack of all trades, master of none,’ you might think. You’d be wrong. Burgers, pastas, Asian-inspired salads, and pizzas are represented, and while some dishes require fine-tuning, the overall impression is positive. Paired with a cool, typically Warsaw interior (white, white, white), the owners have a real success story on their hands. $ A nuż Widelec (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 507 367 520, open 12:00-22:00 So snug is A nuż widelece, the feeling is of being round at a friend’s house.

The food is nothing fancy, but fresh and made with love – and it feels even better while the owner potters about, chatting with his guests and stoking the fire in their new winter garden. Such is the atmosphere, you want to call it home. $$

Baltazar by Mondovino (D5) ul. Krucza 24/26, tel. 516 817 855, open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, baltazar. warszawa.pl Filled with big red colors and battleship greys, there’s a nice feeling of improvisation to Baltazar, and an undercurrent of individuality emphasized by a 1950s wall painting that’s the venue’s statement piece and ballast. The cooking is the work of twins Kuba and Michał (“one person in two bodies” laughs the owner), and is a brilliant www.warsawinsider.pl

45

listings / restaurants work of deconstructed simplicity: delicate rabbit and thyme ravioli, Fred Flintstone-style steaks, and pork belly served with a blob of foam and an arc of liquefied apple. And all hail the desserts, in particular, the silky crème caramel.

Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, open Tue-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, bibenda.pl If it’s informal dining you want, then Bibenda nails it: here the warm design incorporates a popular bar area filled with a young, chattery crowd. The seasonal menu makes use of market vegetables and farmyard produce, and is built on pillars of quality and simplicity. $$ Bierhalle al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), Nowy Świat 64, Marszałkowska 55/73, bierhalle.pl Beer and food: a match made in heaven.

Accompany your frothing stein of lager with traditional beery bites like sausages, schnitzel and pork knuckle. The menu is German / Polish slanted, but with a few international accents. $$ Bernie Grill & Beer (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasto 13/15, tel. 666 999 555, open 10:00-24:00 You might think any place with the words ‘beer’ and ‘grill’ in their title deserves a crack, but everything about Bernie’s is ordinary and mainstream.

We sent our food back after it was burned to a crisp, and we weren’t alone. Preying on

passing tourists, it’s become one to avoid. $$

Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3223, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00- 18:00, www.boathouse.pl The name gives it away, doesn’t it? Situated in what is indeed a former boathouse, this venerable institution comes into its element each summer when Warsaw goes riverside to dine at this restaurant. Even out of season, the Mediterranean standards have stood the test of time and keep this venue busy. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Step right in. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Bubbles Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open

Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, bubbles.com.pl Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate.

Bydło i Poidło (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 Filled with rawhide and industrial undertones, this grown-up version of Bydło I Powidło (see Burgers) has its accent on more high end meats, and specifically steaks. The food, however, never hits the heights the steep prices would suggest. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, open MonSat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and

Dear Guests!

We invite you to experience an exotic and mysterious adventure full of seasonal aromas and the unforgettable flavours of traditional Indian cuisine.

Curry, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, ginger, cumin: these aromas mean it’s impossible to pass Buddha without stepping in.

Enjoy the atmosphere of Indian life, food, music and happiness.

Buddha Indian Restaurant ul. Nowy Swiat 23 +48 22 826 35 01 / 725 111 222

46

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

listings / restaurants every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, open 12:00-24:00, www.derelefant.com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles. The menu looks like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook (Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc.), but if the focus is blurry then the quality isn’t. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the Alaskan crab claws are excellent while the filet mignon (zł. 59) one of the best meat deals in town – and it’s even better when twinned with their own-made BBQ sauce. $$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712, open Tue-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0022:00 The simple name implies exactly what it is: a restaurant in a house. Set in a pre-war home complete with a lawn and garden, this little secret isn’t all that secret. When the Insider visited it was packed, prompting staff to make some adjustments and put together a table. We’re glad they did. Their menu changes frequently, and on our visit included homemade focaccia, beef risotto and gravlax with lime foam on top of a mini-pancake. You won’t want to leave. $$ Dwie Trzecie (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 605 589 588, open

12:00-24:00 With regards to food, think author’s cuisine with a Mediterranean twist and plenty of surprises along the way – edible flowers, nitrogen blasts, etc. The hangar steak scores big points, while the mid-market prices belie the high standard. Pleasingly, you get the idea Dwie Trzecie will work in all seasons: raw enough for summer, yet also intimate for winter. But will it work following the departure of chef Marcin Jabłonski? The next few months will be revealing. $$ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, open Mon-Fri 7:30-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. grill-co.com Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate.

for dessert. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, open Mon-Sun 12:00-15:00, 17:00-23:00, www. facebook.com/dwichlab This haunt has a high communal seating plan and a hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food.

The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks. The place is known for its trial-and-error attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced

by French and North African cuisine, and the new chef looks like he’s adapted well to Kaskrut’s high standards. $$

$$

InFormal Kitchen Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, open 8:30-23:00; Fri 8:3024:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-23:00, informalkitchen.pl Headed by chef Dariusz Ratkowski, there’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26 kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart

Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; -Fri 10:00-1:00; Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.burgerkitchen.pl The revolution is complete. Gone are the street food influences (though burgers have survived the edit), replaced instead by an intelligent menu authored by chef Piotr Ceranowicz. It doesn’t take long to appreciate the revisions, among them a beef tartar served with a scoop of mustard ice cream and lightly toasted homemade bread. Keeping to owner Tomek

www.warsawinsider.pl

47

listings / restaurants Wóźniak’s philosophies, the wonderful compositions of Ceranowicz make use of the freshest, seasonal ingredients and come complimented by some rather smashing cocktails. This is casual dining at its apex.

BEST WAWA 2014 “Reinvention” Krucza 8 i Pól (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10 (enter from Krucza), tel.

784 461 397, open 11:00-23:00 Looking sparse and fashionable one expects Eight and a Half to be on-trend food-wise. No such luck. Fundamentally the food is fine, with quality ingredients cooked with technical competence. Yet while there are hints of skill in the kitchen, there’s little evidence of creativity, passion or invention: imagine the sort of modern European food you’d find in a generic five star hotel. $$ La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, tel. 22 652 3660, open 8:00-23:00, lamaison.pl Everything here feels considered, from a wine list handpicked by importer Frank Telling, right down to the

48

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

desserts, prepared by award-winning French pastry chef Michel Willaume – and my, what desserts. Backing the little details up is a menu of note: fish are a particular forte. All this in a casual background that features some whimsical Alice in Wonderland touches: patchwork armchairs, pinkish booths and hanging teapot-shaped lights. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 7:00-11:00,12:0023:00, www.leregina.com Truly, one of the standout dining rooms of Poland. Many have commented on the Michelin quality of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s restaurant, and you may consider the lack of a star one of the puzzles of the modern world. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and is built for superlatives: the slow-roasted rack of Welsh lamb was one of our highlights of 2013.

Find Oszczyk ably supported by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, and wonderfully charismatic staff. $$$

L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, open Mon 18:00-22:00; Tue-Fri 12:30-15:30, 18:00-22:00; Sat 15:00-22:00, www.eterrible.pl What a few months for L’enfant Terrible: opened at the end of summer, they’d already done enough

by October to win Gazeta Wyborcza’s coveted Knajpy Roku award. And no-one deserves it more than Chef Michał Bryś, an innovative chef who leaves diners beaming. Pitting local produce against modern techniques the tasting menu (five courses: zł. 170) is sensational: the duck hearts will live long in this Insider’s memory. With all the hype you expect it to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but: the design is smart but non-threatening, and the front of house staff are due plenty of credit. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Newcomer” Lokal 14 ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 827 5480, open Mon-Sat 8:30-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 Having served his apprenticeship at Tamka

listings / restaurants 43, you’re right to expect good things from upcoming chef Filip Kosiń. He doesn’t disappoint with his artful menu of modern European “author’s cuisine”. Topping his skills off is a pleasing environment that’s big on light, wood and metalwork. Getting used to being more than a construction site, the opening of Lokal 14 is positive news for this stretch of Świętokrzyska. $$ Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, www.momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket.

A new concept for Warsaw, it’s been a case of so far so good for Momu. $

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel.

22 292 0424, Nolita open Mon-Fri 12.00-15.00 (lunch), 18.00-22.30 (dinner); Sat 13.00-23.00, www.nolita.pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina

has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 BEST WAWA 2014 “Fine Dining” “Chef” Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, open 12:00-last guest, www.nowakuznia.pl A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. In season, the summer terrace is magical, and the place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. $$

Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, open 12:00-23:00, www.restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents come paired with a wine list selected by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant

with an immense reputation. $$ Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, open 11:00-22:30, restauracjapapu. pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Barek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats, while the wine list has been endorsed by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s champion sommelier. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734 or 22 328 8730, open Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 17:30-23:00, www.platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed.

An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Po Prostu Zachęta (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.poprostuzacheta. pl Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables

“Casual fine dining in the heart of Warsaw”

ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita.pl Reservations: rezerwacja@nolita.pl

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00 Lunch, 18:00-22:30 Dinner, Sat 13:00-23:00 www.warsawinsider.pl

49

listings / restaurants nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean. $$

embroidered armchairs. For food, choose from a varied menu that draws on largely Mediterranean influences. Try the bream with herbs baked i sea salt. $$

Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, open 11:00-22:00, puntaprima.com.pl There’s something immediately fetching about Punta Prima, a place that announces itself grandly with its deep wood panels and

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, open daily 12:00-22:00, www. qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.restaurant99.com Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit. No longer the top dog for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$ Salto ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel.

22 584 8771, www.saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included ceviche with Portuguese corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel; and Porcini ice cream served in the shape of a mushroom. It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s passion and personality, but most of all, it’s just bloody brilliant. $$$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings.

Everything we’ve tried here has been culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and roast beef. That they also fix Warsaw’s top cocktails makes it something of a one-stop solution to your evening. $$ Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, open Mon-Fri 12:00-14:30, 17:30-22:00; Sat 17:30-22:00, www.sensesrestaurant.pl The entrance alone is a thing of fancy and

50

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

accessed through a long open-air corridor, one side flanked by the office block, the other by bullet grazed brickwork. Flickering flames dance on either side, the tall walls disappearing into the night sky above. Recommended is the six course tasting menu (zł. 230), which on our visit included eel, smoked at the table, duck with onion chutney and pepper mousse and swordfish served amid billowing ‘sea essence’. Comparisons to Atelier Amaro are inevitable, and speak volumes for the innovation and talents of chef Andrea Camastra. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Foreign Chef” Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, open 12:00-23:00, www.signaturerestaurant.pl ‘Kilian who?’ people asked when Wojciech Kilian was installed as head chef. But this young talent has had the last laugh: set to be Poland’s next big chef, his cooking is extraordinary and presents true fine dining at bargain prices. Kilian’s cause is complimented by a beautiful design described by one reader as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’.

Think: friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. You feel a millionaire just being here. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. www.solec.waw.pl Chef Aleksander Baron is one of the big characters on Warsaw’s foodie circuit, and his love of nose-to-tail food always ensures surprises on the daily changing menu. Using fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, this is one of the best alternate dining experiences around: and yeah, it doesn’t really look like restaurant. Diners order at the counter before sitting down in a spontaneous looking, cut-price interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. We’re huge fans. $$ Sowa & Przyjaciele (G8) ul. Gagarina 2, tel. 795 505 152, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.sowaiprzyjaciele.pl Rocked by its involvement in a government bugging scandal, Robert Sowa has moved fast to reassure customers that all is well in his restaurant. And we can as well. Looking the part with its soft colors and warm lighting, positives are underlined by a sommelier with

listings / restaurants a sixth sense and a barnstorming menu that merits attention. Sowa is one of the biggest names in Polish cooking, and you may fear he spends more time on TV than he does on his kitchen: we’re happy to report on all of our visits we’ve seen him emerge from the background, sharing backslaps and bear hugs with his regular clientele. $$$ Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, open daily 13:00-22:00 www.stoldzielnia. pl A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with oddshaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$ Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00, www. restauracjastrefa.pl Just what were they thinking ignoring the form book like that?

No communal tables, no pipes and no rough-hewn bricks. Instead, there’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service.

What a refreshing change. The chef favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. Even the cocktails are a thing of brilliance. $$

Szklarnia ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 690 511 020, open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, restauracjaszklarnia.pl Natalia Huzarwicz’s cuisine is influenced by the season, which means plenty of warming winter dishes presented with real aplomb. Recognizable by the dazzle of neon and greenhouse outside, this is a restaurant that seamlessly fits with the Soho surrounds. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00, www.tamka.43. pl The design is upscale but in a quiet, dignified manner, with the principal talking point being the view: there it is, right in front of you, the Ostrogski Palace. For date night, book the peacock’s perch, a table for two that juts out from the rest of the glass frontage. Chef Rafał Hreczaniuk has finessed a menu that stands out as one of the best in the city, with a seasonal tasting menu that on our visit featured beautiful zander with horse radish powder, Irish beef cheek with plenty of oomph, and a wild garlic panna cotta.

Consider Tamka one of the Poland’s elite restaurants. $$$ Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 400 1122, open daily 11:30-22:30, www.taste.pl To leave a restaurant fortified is to be expected; to leave delighted is the mark of quality. With a clever L-shaped interior, a natural terrace and a gleaming white ceramic kitchen it

looks good, but it’s the food that earns the plaudits. Dominik Moskalenko, the executive chef who cut his teeth on Amber Room has been a central part of this creation from the beginning and the fruits of his labor are mouth-watering. Fish sit prominently on his menu and account for an astonishing 60% of sales. And rightly so: they’re phenomenal. $$ U Chłopaków (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 115 9710, open 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00 Chłodna’s renaissance continues. Formerly a decrepit grocery store of the same name, Chłopaków is all exposed brick, sprigs of greenery and overhanging lamps. It’s a casual stop, but the cooking is not a throwaway – the menu is heavily slanted towards Eastern European, and has winning pierogi and wonderfully thick goulash. $$ Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, open MonFri 12:00 -22:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:00, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl There’s a real elegance to Villa Foksal, an upscale restaurant whose floor plan and garden have made them a favorite for corporate bashes and brand launches. The Vichyssoise with truffles is a prelude to mains like filet mignon in red wine sauce. $$$ Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285, open Mon 9:30-20:00; Tue-Thu 9:30-22:00; Fri 9:30-

• The best quality USDA Black Angus prime beef, Wagyu 9+ Kobe steaks and Scottish prime beef.

• Outstanding seafood menu with oysters, mussels, octopus and calamari and seasonal, traditional Polish dishes.

• The largest selections of global wine in Poland. ul. Merliniego 5 (across from the Warszawianka water park) tel. 22 646 0810/22 646 0849

www.warsawinsider.pl

51

listings / restaurants 23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs.

And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere.

Pairing international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $ Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 2500, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera.pl Everyone enjoys the food, and Jakub Adamczyk’s seasonally adjusted menu is indeed a thing of greatness: the beef tenderloin is a must, while the rhubarb parfait is a dessert of distinction. The prices reflect the quality of the kitchen, but certainly not that of the wait staff – two years after opening, and Winosfera still haven’t ironed out issues such as front-of-house staff who greet guests with an ‘Uh’. $$$

52

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

Wootwórnia (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 696 259, open 10:00-22:00, www.wootwornia.pl. Accessed round a back garden, Wootwórnia feels like a private little secret – you get the sensation not of visiting a restaurant, but of visiting a friend. The dominant element is the counter, from which co-owner Agnes Woo showcases her homemade preserves and own-baked cakes. Sourcing ingredients from small-scale local farms, here is a menu designed to nourish the soul. And it does just that. The tomato soup, enriched with hint of orange, aniseed and cinnamon isn’t soup of the day, it’s our soup of the year. Genuine ‘food from the heart’. $$ You & Me (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, open Mon-Thu 7:00-24:00; Fri 7:00-2:00; Sat 12:002:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, youandmebar.pl A modern looking eatery / cocktail bar whose kitchen has a distinct liking for pan-European dishes and seafood. Set over two floors, their enduring popularity – eight years and

counting – makes it something of a legend on Żurawia. $$ Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, open 10:00-23:30, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter.

And then the food arrives: dainty veal dumplings, and tender braised veal that’s good for the chills. You leave knowing you have eaten honestly and well. $$ Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 521 06 66, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-1:00; Sat 14:00-1:00; Sun 14:00-22:00, zurawina. eu First a wine bar, second a restaurant, but the food here is such that it merit attention.

There’s only seven or so mains to pick from, and the chef has them down to a tee – rib eye with shallots and truffle butter? Yes please. Certainly, the quality befits one of Warsaw’s best wine bars.

listings / restaurants italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, open 12:00-22:00 The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community.

Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www.delizia.com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed.

Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$ Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, open Mon-Sun 12:00-22:00, dziurkaodklucza. com.pl An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$ Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, focaccia.pl Polish foodies already know the name of Łukasz Toczka – single-handedly he pulled the culinary shipwreck that is

Gdańsk into the 21st century during his stint at Metamorfoza restaurant. Now he’s popped up in Warsaw, and his Italian menu illustrates his talent: consider the bistecca con sedano a must. And while you’d expect a restaurant inside a palace to be all bowties and oil paintings, it’s anything but – instead find fresh, light interiors that reflect the nature of the food. $$ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-20:00 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20 minute waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, tel.

22 630 6306, open 12:00-23:00 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$

6:30-11:00 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$ Trattoria da Antonio (D5) ul. Żurawia 18, tel. 22 625 5417, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00, www.trattoriadaantonio.pl At times you suspect you’ve walked into the 90s, what with the embellishments that appear at each turn – a Vespa, some stone lions, a water well. But this is no bad thing: at a time when restaurants are doing their best to look stripped down and functional, cheerful Antonio feels jaunty and fun. And the food, created by Sicilian-born Antonio Centurrino, has several redeeming qualities: the penne arrabiata is delicious in its simplicity, though for a piece of heaven try the gnocchi tartufati.

No less than a warm trattoria whose specialty is good, simple food. $$

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar japanese &• Restaurant sushi • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar

ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, open 12:00-last guest, www.sanlorenzo. pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price. It’s in here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$ Superiore (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. 506 404 059, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00, www.superiorewinebar.pl A hybrid wine shop, deli and restaurant, with an owner who prefers to think about the enjoyment of your dining experience rather than his cash till. The veal pasta is the bestselling dish here for very good reason. $$ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun www.warsawinsider.pl

53

listings / restaurants Ryż i Ryba (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, open MonFri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, www. ryziryba.pl The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, www.sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00;

56

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best.

And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Tekeda Sushi & Ramen ul. Meissnera 1/3, tel. 606 236 050, open 12:00-22:00, sushitekeda.pl Expansion is the name of the game. Already established in New Town, Tekeda’s latest venture on the other side of the river ticks boxes for its sushi, though it’s the ramen dishes everyone is talking about. Using free range produce and traditional techniques from the Kyushiu region of Japan, you won’t find better ramen in the country.

Tekeda Sushi & Wok (D1) ul. Freta 18, tel. 600 351 818, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.sushitekeda.pl Tekeda get it right with a good balance of sushi and

wok dishes, making it a popular destination with locals and passing tourists alike. The grilled maki is particularly pleasing. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.tomo.pl Excellent.

While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Wabu (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 628 9274, wabu.pl Sushi gets a five star makeover in Wabu, a place that proudly proclaims that they have no menu: instead, ‘every dish is a unique composition’ prepped by their chefs according to your whims. You might find your whims influenced by the works of author Haruki Murakami – sections of his texts are

listings / restaurants occasionally read out at night, while the sushi masters chop up dishes mentioned in his books. $$$

latin & mexican Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.bluecactus.pl It’s been around for so long that people had started referring to the Cactus in the past tense. Enter executive chef Patrick Hanna, a man who has revitalized and revived the place in a way no-one could have imagined.

Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, Hanna has reawakened this sleeping giant. Committed to local produce and fresh flavors, his finest moment has been hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Say it loudly: the Blue Cactus is back! $

Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, www.casapablo. pl While increasingly well represented in the capital, Spanish food has been pointed in a new direction by Casa Pablo. Breaking away from hackneyed clichés, the eclectic interior (tartan colors, crates, a century old mirror) is reflective of a menu that places equal importance on flair, quality and elements of fine dining. Based on the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, find the likes of pork ribs in hoi sin and honey sauce introduced, not to mention cod cooked at 45° and served with pigs trotters. You’ll be amazed. $$ Dos Tacos (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, open 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, dostacos. pl Dos Tacos finally have a venue worthy of the food. Featuring lots of Mexican lizard art

and psychedelic, Day of the Dead touches, find the interiors busy with a lively crowd enjoying an exciting range of salsas and authentic Mexican recipes as cooked by Isabela Balderas. $$ Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, open Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-20:00 A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is the best of the bunch: fiery, fresh and full of zing.

Ole Tapas (E5) ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. ole-restaurant.pl A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you:

www.warsawinsider.pl

57

listings / restaurants while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$ Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, open Mon-Thu 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at 23:00); Fri-Sat 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at midnight); Sun 12:00-19:00 (kitchen closes at 18:00), tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing summer zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness. Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy tomato sauce.

BEST WAWA 2014 Just amazing. $$ “Casual Dining” Spoco Loco (H4) ul. Francuska 8, open 12:00-21:00, www. spocoloco.pl It begins with a bead of sweat.

Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes.

Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect.

But this tiny eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are the real deal, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. After a mysterious absence of six

months, it’s heartening to see Spoco Loco back open for business. $ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, open 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Howling hot salsas and freshly made tortillas give WTF a head start on other restaurants, but there are other strings to their poncho: the menu has been slimmed and continues to be tinkered with, while the introduction of zł. 19 lunches – served on Alcatraz trays – present one of the best deals in town. We’ve enjoyed the burritos here for years, and score them as the best in town. $$

middle eastern

HeyooDubai (B2) Al. Jana Pawła 45/54, tel. 535 075 770, open 11:00-23:00, tagine.pl Any doubts you have about a restaurant trying to cover the cuisine of Morocco, Pakistan and the Gulf states is immediately dispelled by the thick, rich aromas that pour from the traditional Mandi oven. The couscous is stalwart, and the charcoal grilled chicken a dish of real standing. Affordable and casual, Heyoo is the real deal. $$

Exotic Moroccan Tajines & Couscous Mandi Oven + Charcoal Grill Enjoy the unique taste from Morocco and the Arab World HeyooDubai Restaurant Al. Jana Pawla 45/54 Tel. 535 075 770 Open daily 11:00-23:00 www.facebook.com/heyoodubai; www.tagine.pl

58

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer.

Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. $$

Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, open 11:00-23:00, www. lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sokotra.pl A Yemeni restaurant with a brief menu full of recognizable Eastern dishes like hummus and grilled halloumi. And one of the big boons is the discovery that Indian influences also fall under the compass of Yemeni cuisine – the madras leaves you puffing smoke rings.

Find all that in a casual interior composed of chattery locals and mysterious concrete additions – e.g. a telegraph pole squeezed amid the tables. $$

polish Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

listings / restaurants

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure.

Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, open Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30, www.aterlieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first (and only) Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Presentation” Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841,

open daily 12:00-24:00, www.bazyliszek. waw.pl Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant.

Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $

to be Biała Gęś. Interiors conjure images of a countryside manor; you imagine rolling up here after a day shooting foxes. Yet it’s not those blighters on the menu, but geese.

That’s the house specialty, and you’d do well to find better. A whole bird for four is yours for zł. 490. $$$

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 –558 6701, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, belvedere.com.pl Regarded as one of the great names on Warsaw’s culinary carousel, this restaurant never ceases to impress: set in a imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with Adam Komar’s menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. $$$

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, open daily 12:00-24:00 (kitchen to 23:00), www.czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment. Which explains the playful nature of this commie themed restaurant. Dining is done under red banners and paintings of nasty political activists, while the menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the dignitary and proletariat – all details that saw it names as one of the Top 25 Unique Restaurants in the World. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$

Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, open 12:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00); Sun 12:00-22:00, www.bialages.pl For that elegant touch of Zhivago-era class, it’s got

Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00, www.dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden

Le Cedre 84

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99

Le Cedre 61

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66

www.lecedre.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

59

listings / restaurants promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, open daily 12:00-last guest, www. delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu

that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leave, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$

Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjadompolski.pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, open daily 12:00-midnight, www.folkgospoda.pl Be honest, sometimes all you want to do is slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it cultivated, but there are occasions when a good knees-up around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required. And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$ Jaś & Małgosia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Back from the dead!

An institution dating from the 60s, Jaś & Małgosia have reopened after a three year hiatus. Updated they might be, but the design (concrete floors, exposed brickwork) features several nods to the past – not least a replica of the famous neon that once crowned the roof. The menu was designed in collaboration with Aleksander Baron, and while unglamorous and uncomplicated is food that represents all that’s good about the Polish kitchen: thick soups, fresh vegetables and hefty meat. Most of all, it makes you feel good on a wet, windy day. $ Kafe Zielony Niedwiedz (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, open

60

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

8:00-23:00. The Smolna address is a bit misleading – in reality, you’ll be traipsing down into the park under the ‘hammer head’ tower before reaching Zbyszek Kmieć’s restaurant. But you’ll be glad you did. The menu has hints of Atelier Amaro in its fiendish attention to natural Polish produce: the cream of beetroot soup is peerless, and the boar ragout gains similar approval. This is a happy marriage where traditions are turned on their head using creative techniques and precise presentation. At the same time, be warned the scene here might not appeal: it’s very stars in your eyes as Polish celebs – both major and minor – swan about while their acolytes simper. $$ Mała Polana Smaków ul. Belwederska 13, tel. 22 400 8048, open 12:00-22:00 Andrzej Polan, the chef that made the recently expired Soul Kitchen such a cult experience, is back! Taking up quarters in what was once Central Park, his menu grasps concepts of ‘fresh’ and ‘natural’ and presents the tastes of Poland through a skilled modern eye. We’ll be back for an in-depth look next issue. $$ Oycowizna ul. Słoneczna 241 (Lesznowola), tel. 22 713 8993, open 11:00-23:00, oycowizna.pl A bucolic country cottage set 20 clicks from Warsaw is home to this charmer of a hotel / restaurant. Filled with hanging pots, pans and horseshoes, there’s something authentically Polish about it all. Same goes for the menu, which is a deliciously filling rundown of the Old Polish kitchen. $$ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, open MonSat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www. podwale25.pl Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate.

Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic.

Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00 Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the

listings / restaurants food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $

enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is paired by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$

Przystawki ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 299 1619, open 10:00-22:00, przystawki.com Welcome to Muranów: the black hole of local gastronomy. But change is in the air – first came the opening of Jaś i Małgosia, and now comes Przy Stawki. Both keep it simple, gunning for a straight forward menu that presents the kind of cooking you’d like to see at the in-laws: local ingredients cooked with care. In a nutshell, this is Polish home cooking at moderate prices. More places like this, please. $

U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.uszwejka.pl Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend, though it’ll be curious to see if the crowds still pack in following the loss of their alcohol license. Food like this really needs beer – without it, well, you be the judge. $$

Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, open 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjarozana. com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees.

From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc.

Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves.

Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, open 12:00-last guest, www.ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, open 11:00-23:00 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, open 10:00-22:00, www.zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

steak houses Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www. butcheryandwine.pl Has it really been that long? Opened to wide acclaim in 2011, Butchery & Wine stirred Warsaw’s appetite for quality red meat. Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach and the wine list suited to the meat fest in front. Many hail this as Poland’s best steak, and you can definitely see where they’re coming from. $$

RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR

restaurant with a cocktail bar in the BUSTLING center of Warsaw, invites YOU to TASTE THE BEST OF Polish cuisine.

scandinavian Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www. nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food?

There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$ www.warsawinsider.pl

61

listings / restaurants Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745, open Mon-Fri for Breakfast 6:30-10:00; Sat 6:30-11:00, 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 12:0016:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00, dinner 18:00-23:00 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$ Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, hoza.warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge

62

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, www. merliniego5.pl Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a wine bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. While they pride themselves on their 9+ rated kobe beef, it’s the USDA filet mignon that we rate as the top drawer – it’s sublime. $$$ Muu Muu (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 465 1553, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.muumuu.pl A life-size cow with a menu chained around its neck stands outside as if to say: “turn back now, vegetarians.” Looking sparky, fun and engaging the décor is composed of light woods and soft touches, not to mention blackboard slogans such as ‘Eat Meat’ and ‘Love Bacon’. The heart of their

act is indeed meat, and involves T-bone, rib eye, chateaubriand not to mention a few burgers. The standard is high, but so too the prices. Our otherwise excellent sirloin was spoiled somewhat by limp, soggy chips that came at zł. 10 extra. $$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, www. saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$

cafes & wine bars bakeries Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115, open Sun-Thu 6:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 6:30-1:00 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat.

But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger.

CHOCS AWAY! KARMELLO (ul. Chmielna 11, karmello.pl) ‘Taste is personal, quality is not’, or so rings the Karmello motto. Specializing in boutique chocolate, pralines, macaroons and suchlike, further points are awarded for their ability to fulfill special, personalized orders.

KRAKOWSKA MANUFAKTURA CZEKOLADY (ul. Marszałkowska 84, chocolate.krakow.pl) Born in Kraków, this brand offers handmade chocolates inside an intimate setting that gushes with character. They even offer workshops for true chocaholics...

LE CHOCOLAT (ul. Żurawia 26, lechocolat.pl) Announcing themselves to be Warsaw’s finest chocolate store, Le Chocolat bring to Warsaw luxury foreign brands such as Weiss, Berger, Pralus and Summerbird. The choice is startling, and well-primed for Valentine’s.

ODETTE (Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl) Preparing to open at press time, huge things are expected of Odette: if rumors in the local newspapers are to believed, one of the lads behind it is Krzysztof Rabek, formerly of Hugo in Poznań and the Michelin-starred Atelier Amaro. We’re told to expect pralines, chocolate, cakes and more, with preview shots on Facebook looking completely divine. This could well be a new benchmark for Warsaw.

PIJALNIE CZEKOLADY WEDEL (ul. Szpitalna 8, wedelpijalnie.pl) Looking almost Viennese in its pomp and splendor, find the flagship Wedel cafe inside an ornate building that once housed the Wedel chocolate factory. It’s the go-to place for everything Wedel, with their chocolate drinks something of a local legend.

Charlotte (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 662 204 555, bistrocharlotte. com The battle lines are drawn: on one side it’s the slobs of Plan B, and on the other the snobs of Charlotte. While the fancy crowd (all jangling Porsche keys and idiotic selfies) isn’t to everyone’s liking, Charlotte’s baked goods are commonly hailed as things of rare beauty.

Monique Bakery & Wine (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 629 3974, moniquebakery.pl Reports have been hit and miss about Monique, with some citing spotty service and heavy handed prices. Even so, their baguettes and croissants always hit the mark.

Przystanek Piekarnia (D6) ul. Koszykowa 58, przystanekpiekarnia.pl The atmosphere is brisk and buzzing inside what’s emerged as the breadbasket of choice for Warsaw’s fashionistas. An interesting design authored by architect Maciej Kurkowski makes use of dozens of wooden slats that seemingly cascade from the ceiling, but make no mistake, the talking point is the bread and luxurious pastries.

SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 606 836 836, www.sam.info.pl A central, communal table is flanked by smaller satellite tables for parties of two to four while perky seasonal blooms and potted herbs lend a spark of freshness. Co-owner Małgorzata KusinaDoran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc. www.warsawinsider.pl

63

listings / cafés & wine bars cafés Blikle (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35 (check website for other locations), tel. 22 826 6619, open Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-last guest, www. blikle.pl There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100 year history.

Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who swore by their donuts.

Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24, tel. 794 000 634, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-16:00, www.bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place.

Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, open 7:0023:00, www.bycmoze.com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

Café 6/12 (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.612.pl Famous for dispensing complex fruit and vegetable super smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; the cavernous interiors are still very much the choice haunt for on-trend 30 something’s.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 604 614 287, open MonFri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:0022:00 It’s back! Under new management, this Warsaw legend has been reclaimed from the hipsters and given over to the creative classes. A place of creaking floorboards, retro armchairs and bookshelves in the process of being filled, that this neighborhood hangout draws more than just neighbors is evidence

64

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

of its greatness. And the really good bit?

They’ve now got beer (Bojan, Lwówek and Goralskie) – let joy be unconfined!

Christian’s Bakerhouse (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345, open daily 9:00-21:00, www.bakerhouse.pl “Our chef places great emphasis on quality,” confided our waitress, and that’s no word of a lie. Numerous national breakfasts are represented, from nutritious kick-starters to a full British fry-up – which we’ve yet to see bettered by anywhere in Warsaw. The pet project of celebrity chef Krystian Zalejski – and not some nutty religious order as the name might suggest – the offer extends beyond breakfast to good Italian staples cooked with a twist.

Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19, tel. 22 121 2275, open 8:00-20:00 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level.

Czuły Barbarzyńca ul. Dobra 31, open 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital.

Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21, tel. 791 096 725, open Mon-Thur 8:00-22:00; Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel. 22 826 0822, open 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a

collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 828 5417, open Mon-Wed 10:00-23:00; Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun14:00-23:00, www. miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been.

Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 503 080 906, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0022:00, www.ministerstwokawy.pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe.

BEST WAWA 2014 “Coffee” MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 22 629 0815, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00, Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day.

And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall. my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www. myomy.pl Slightly rustic in design, with wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor.

The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic.

listings / cafés & wine bars Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 664 844 439, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Organic Coffee ul. Piękna 19, open Mon-Fri 7:30-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-19:00, organiccoffee. pl Consider the name a misnomer – it’s not just coffee that’s organic here, but practically everything else on offer. By their reckoning, 99% of the goods on offer are natural, and that includes their cakes, cookies, sandwiches and salads. Immediately relaxing, Organic thrives as a happening meeting spot throughout the day.

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9446, open 9:00-24:00, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while spring sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-18:00 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Stor ul. Tamka 33, open Mon-Fri 7:30-21:30; Sat-Sun 8:30-19:00 Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café. Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about.

Strefa (D7) Oleandrów 3, tel. 784 404 731, open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00 A pleasing find, Strefa’s casual atmosphere is emphasized by a stack of board games and books in the corner – people come here to dwell and dawdle over hot coffee, craft beer, changing art and a slice of homemade cake. A strong sense of neighborhood prevails, with owners of neighboring businesses always swinging by for a chat and a chew.

Wypoczynkownia ul. Hoża 29/31, open Mon-Sat 7:30-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, wypoczynkownia.pl While this place sounds like a Scrabble winner, its true role is as a fab neighborhood café that prides itself on its Arabicas and freshly-baked goods. Sporting a comfortably cosmopolitan style, the only improvement would be the forced confiscation of the requisite Keep Calm sign: get rid of it and the world is yours!

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon-Tue 10:00-22:00; Wed-Sat 10:00-24:00, www.alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik.

You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so.

One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch. BEST WAWA 2014 “Wine Bar” Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44. open 12:00-23:00 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone. The wine selection was personally overseen by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country. And the choice is prodigious. Offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, tel. 515 037 001, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? Complimenting the Argentineinspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www.mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool.

Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, open 11:00-23:00, www.portucale.pl The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ VinoTrio ul. Marszałkowska 76, tel. 22 826 1697, open Mon 12:00-21:00; Tue-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00, vinotrio.pl Specializing in French, Spanish and Italian wine, VinoTrio touts price points that appeal to all incomes – bottles begin at zł. 30. Despite the small footprint the choice is extensive and the ambiance congenial.

Wejman ul. Zgoda 4, tel. 661 661 150, open 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00 The owners cooperated closely with acclaimed importer Guillaume Deliancourt to assemble a stock list dominated by Southern European – especially French – and New World wine. Try before you buy at this hotly trending wine bar.

WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, tel. 22 542 8031, open Mon-Sat 12.00-23.00; Sun 12.00-20.00, www.winkolekcja.pl The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge. www.warsawinsider.pl

65

nightlife COMING IN FEBRUARY

CYDERIA (ul. Poznańska 16) Cider was already trending last year only for Vladimir Putin to ban the import of Polish apples – all of a sudden, drinking fermented apples became a patriotic duty. Amid booming sales, the launch of the nation’s first cider bar was just a matter of time. Owned by the same lot behind Plan B, visualizations suggest Cyderia will be a step-up in style from their other business interest. We can’t wait.

bars & pubs Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, open daily 12:00-4:00, www.beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Berlin-Warszawa Express (D5) Most Poniatowskiego (corner of Kruczkowskiego and al. 3 Maja), open 18:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 18:00-3:00 Set up a flight of stairs, a concrete footbridge at the top links the two bars either side: Berlin and Warszawa. It’s a Matrix moment, the red pill or the blue? Berlin’s the better, with industrial cage lights, and salvaged DDR memorabilia. Surveying the scene, it’s all wobbly tables, sticky surfaces and tight little alcoves fitted into impossible spaces.

A great dive bar, the friendly nature of Berlin gets even friendlier after a few craft brews.

Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), ul. Nowy Świat 64, ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, open 11:00-last guest, bierhalle.pl Having tapped their first beer six or seven years back, their microbrewery have morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins.

MIĘDZY USTAMI (ul. Mokotowska 33/35) Między Ustami is the creation of Marta Rut, one of the team that made Powiśle’s Sto900 such an outright hit. But those expecting a repeat of her previous venture are in for a surprise.

The plan here is to present original modern cocktails and ‘tapas with a twist’ inside a location that promises to be raw and edgy. We’ll be returning next issue to tell you if they’ve succeeded.

66

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, www.bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd.

What has remained constant is the energy.

Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright,

listings / nightlife banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The most faithful replica of an English pub you’ll find.

And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager.

Judging by the standard of their beer, you might want to follow their example.

Browarmia (D3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.browarmia.pl A brewery first and foremost – and an average one at that – full of pipes, valves and mysterious gauges. They still do their own brewing, but conscious of the shift towards artisan beer they’ve now also added around twenty taps to their offer. The choice is a little more pedestrian than the competition, but is nonetheless a pleasant sign of changing times. That it looks, feels and smells like a brewery makes it all the more welcome.

Bubbles Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, bubbles.com. pl Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles.

Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland. Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29.

Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 22 890 77 05, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream garbage. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls.

Column Bar ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol), open 10:00-1:00 Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is peerless: no one does it better, whether it’s a restorative Bloody Mary, or a finely crafted Mojito.

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106, open 10:00-2:00, www.cudanakiju.pl Warsaw’s multi-tap revolution started here!

This sleek space comes drenched in sunlight that slants through the four glass walls, while the shaded courtyard is frequently utilized for various one off events and food truck meets.

Find 15 taps dispensing regional and craft brews as well as quirky imports from Czech, Belgium and beyond.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), tel. 505 695 512, open 16:00-last guest,2 www.czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so new wave beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers.

Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, open Tue-Thu, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www. czeskabaszta.pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary.

Bathed in a yellowish murk, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk!

There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

Czysta Ojczysta ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, open Mon-Fri 18:004:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00 Set in a one-time

vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo.

Elephant Belgian Pub (C1) ul. Freta 19, tel. 532 742 400, open Mon-Thu 14:00-23:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-23:00 Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all.

Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855, open MonFri 13:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00, www.goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Hopsters Al. Jana Pawła II 45 (enter from ul.

Nowolipki), open Mon-Thu 15:00-24:00; Fri 15:00-2:00; Sat 13:00-2:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 You get the idea they could have done a bit more with the interior, though the tendency is to overlook this. After all, any bar that goes to the trouble of fitting twenty taps deserves a bit of leeway. And fine things they are, these taps of theirs. There’s usually a couple of foreign guests on the day-to-day menu (Mikeller, Lindemans), but the main draw is undoubtedly from domestic brew houses like AleBrowar and Artezan, not to mention rising stars such as Doctor Brew and Podgórz.

Jedna Trzecia ul. Wilcza 52, tel 605 589 588, open MonThu 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-2:00; Sat-Sun 14:00-24:00 Unbeknown to some publicans, craft beer is not a numbers game – it’s not www.warsawinsider.pl

67

listings / nightlife about how many taps you have, it’s about what comes out of them. This lot understood that from the start. Quality control is stringent, yet aside from pouring the perfect pint (every time), Jedna Trzecia have a choice that reflects the latest developments on the global craft scene: rare find international brews are a specialty and presented in an industrial, concrete space softened by it’s mustard lighting and laidback audience.

BEST WAWA 2014 “Craft Beer Bar” Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 512 307 284, open

GREAT FOOD AMAZING COCKTAILS FREQUENT LIVE PERFORMANCES KICK-ASS SERVICE ROCK’N’ROLL EXPERIENCE

LIVE MUSIC

ON WEDNESDAYS - 8:30 PM

10% unt*

disco

WARSAW | ZŁOTE TARASY | UL. ZŁOTA 59 TEL. +48 22 222 07 00

*Show this advert and get 10% discount on food, nonalcoholic beverages or merchandise**.

Valid till December 31th, 2015. ** For purchases over 150 PLN.

68

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat 16:00-2:00 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, there are times in Kita Koguta where sitting at bar level is like watching Dexter’s Laboratory: the staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks.

Not all the experiments go as planned, but that’s part of the thrill – for a failsafe, order the Viterbo Breakfast: it looks like something that came out of a drainpipe, but it’s delicious!

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 791 334 606, open daily 12:00-4:00 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218, open Mon-Thu 14:00-2:00; Fri 14:00-4:00; Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00, www. kufleikapsle.pl Ten tap and two pump beers offer a magnificent spread of daily changing beers, and the good news continues with the choice in the fridge: there’s 120 beers down there, so gamble on a rather jolly night. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the building, and are already thick with noise, clamor and the welcome scent of beer and spillage.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl Celebrating their fourth anniversary this September just gone, Legends is slowly edging its way to legendary status amongst the ex-pats and Anglophiles.

It’s all helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Most of all though, the success is down to the sense of community fostered over long quiz nights, shouty karaoke competitions and other such events. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut.

Multitap Bla Bla ul. Nowogrodzka 22, open 14:00-2:00,

blabla.com.pl Nowhere has ‘the tap takeover’ been more overt than on Nowogrodzka. Joining the inner circle of craft beer bars is Bla Bla, a place of ten taps rotating Polish piwo – with the occasional international guest. The advantage Bla Bla holds over others are its cool curvy sofas and a pricing structure that allows people to buy half-pints at… half the price – out here, that’s not always been the given that it might otherwise sound.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 6306, open Mon-Sun 18:002:00, www.panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, tel. 691 472 969, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf.

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:001:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl Patera fill a binary role: first as an Asian eatery, and second as a cocktail bar. And my, what cocktails. Offering several classics, and a few modern creations, the Ginger Peach Collins became our cocktail of choice during summer 2014. The reopening of Świętokrzyska should lead a few more

listings / nightlife people through the door – they’ll like what they see.

Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 83 73, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones.

This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

pristine bar with a star studded clientele. The interiors feature stark white colors and an interesting multi-level seating arrangement.

Most, however, prefer to give themselves maximum exposure and do both their sipping and sitting outdoors.

couples and beer enthusiasts. There’s ten taps from which to choose, and a fridge with several interesting international beers. The Old Town doesn’t have much to shout about when it comes to nightlife, so Same Krafty’s debut is more than welcome.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976, open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest.

Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails. Try their best seller: the Bloody Hell. Using Chopin vodka infused with horse radish, pirri pirri and basil, this pimped out version of the Bloody Mary incorporates chili syrup and wasabi in a high octane drink that kicks like a mule.

Piw Paw na Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 534 734 945, open 16:00-last guest, piwpaw.pl If the original Piw Paw was marketed as a ‘hyper tap’ then what’s their sister on Foksal? There’s 97 taps (!!) though one gets the sense its more about numbers than quality – we’ve seen Beck’s, for Pete’s sake. Getting service can be a nightmare, and while there’s a smoking room, it’s got the warmth and ambience of a night down the police station.

Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24, tel. 604 942 169, open Sun-Wed 10:00-1:00; Thu 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-3:00 Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative.

Plac Barcelona (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 501 988 768, open Sun-Thu 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-1:00 Those who think this area’s star has waned need look no further than Plac Barcelona, a

Same Krafty (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 22 831 98 75, open 15:00-last guest Set across two small, rugged rooms, Same Krafty gets populated by an organic combination of tourists,

Sketch w Teatrze Wielkim (D2) Pl. Piłsudkiego 9, tel. 602 762 764, open 12:00-1:00 Here’s a multi tap bar designed with a very specific crowd in mind: glam stylists, models with sleeve tattoos and other morons. Looking bold, bright and brash, this is just about the worst tap bar Warsaw has ever seen. The beer aspect is purely incidental. You get the idea this mob would be here if the pipes were hooked up to the udders of a cow – so long as milk was in fashion. Yuck.

Restauracja / Bar / Klub

ul. Nowy Świat 58, Warszawa | Al. Jana Pawła 9-11 (Aleja Topolowa), Gdynia www.bollywoodlounge.pl / Polub nas na Facebooku

www.warsawinsider.pl

69

listings / nightlife Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, restauracjasloik.pl Słoik looks bright, loud and vibrant, so it’s no surprise to learn their cocktail maestros specialize in maverick creations. A source of particular pride are drinks that celebrate Poland: we’re talking about vodkas infused with juniper and vanilla, then mixed with marmalades and other exotica like pickled cucumber juice.

The tastes are unique and leave you bandylegged and shouting for more.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 796 671 950, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks.

Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

W Oparach Absurdu ul. Ząbkowska 6, open Sun-Mon 12:002:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00 Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests.

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622, open Mon-Sun 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Warsaw’s premier sports pub: and it’s not just the extent of their sporting offer that elevates WTF, but the atmosphere. Whether it’s international rugby, or Bristol City on a Tuesday night, the tension, camaraderie and horseplay are unmatched. On the occasions when there is no sport, swing by for live bands and a lively atmosphere fueled by a heady mix of ex-pats, international students, and locals bewildered by it all. The recent addition of boutique beverages such as Brew Dog and Thistly Cross has gone down a treat.

70

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

clubs De Lite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 792 014 166, www.deliteclub.pl This place definitely figures highly in the ‘bubbles and beauties’ stakes. Scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis, flirting and dancing, while exposed brick and pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror setup in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, spaceship interior.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, open Wed-Sat 22:00-4:00, www.enklawa.com Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.

Foksal XVIII (E4) ul. Foksal 18, open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00 Billed as one of the top ‘rich and pretty’ clubs in the capital, Foksal features a competitive ‘look at me’ spirit and flash interiors that are all chandeliers and champagne. Cardboard animal shapes hanging from the bar inject much needed humor to this cream of the crop club. Don’t even think of trying to gain entry without first tipping a bottle of aftershave down your pants.

Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, open Wed-Thu 22:00-10:00; Fri-Sat 24:00-14:00, www. luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 694 413 439, open Thu-Sat 21:00-6:00. www.platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/ Mrs Right for Now.

gentleman’s clubs Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, tel. 794 007 000, open 21:00-4:00, www.playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”). Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen. com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

live music Bistro na Pięknej (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.jazzone.pl A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace.

Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts.

Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754, open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641, open 10:00-4:00, www.pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

shopping accessories Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, www. agentprovocateur.com The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, satin gloves, a blindfold and nipple tassels…

Bagatt ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 622 0015, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.bagatt. pl A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży.

FOUR TO WATCH: FLORISTS BUKIECIARNIA (pictured) (ul. Mokotowska 41) Just about the cutest little florist you’ll find, Bukieciarnia set the pace with flower arrangements for all seasons and occasions. Stunning floral arrangements are complimented by a range of odds and ends inside a store decked out like a fairytale cottage.

HALA MIROWSKA (pl. Mirowski 1) For emergency peace offerings and spontaneous shows of affection then the open air flower market outside Hala Mirowska is a lifesaver. You won’t find anything revolutionary, but the blooms are cheap and make the point – better still, a few of the petal pushers are open around-the-clock.

AGA KWIACIARNIA (ul. Patriotów 166) Bouquets and gift baskets galore plus a personalized service that ensures that you’ll end up with the right blooms for the right person. Delivery also available.

WARSZTAT WONI (ul. Burakowska 5/7) Established in 1999 by Marta Gessler, this boutique-style space specializes in flowers and potted plants that go ‘outside the norm’. That means contemporary arrangements that are both simple and highly personal.

Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections.

Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances.

BeautyLab Polska ul. Belwederska 20/22, beautylabpolska.pl Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care.

Frey Wille ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. www.frey-wille.com You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Vienna-based jewellers work www.warsawinsider.pl

71

listings / shopping almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals.

Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel.

794 689 090, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00 Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 625 0881, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-15:00, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3, tel. 884 867 518, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-18:00. The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula.

Kate Roxs ul. Radna 10, kateroxs.eu Beyond the slightly creepy / fetishistic window display (leather Roman body armor), this store has earned a reputation for high quality, natural leather bags. “Our inspiration,” says Kate, “comes from women, not trends.”

Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 403 19 19, open Mon-Fri 11:19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, www.lilou.pl Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space.

Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40, tel. 798 025 505, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00 A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in

72

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris.

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 665 625 618, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 22 541 4141, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range.

For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

fashion American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 605645289, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style.

Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 622 02 76, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Balthazar ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 22 657 0311, balthazar. pl Enjoying a close cooperation with Sartoria Partenopea, Balthazar offer bespoke, madeto-measure tailored after a meeting with the house ‘style expert’. Image consultancy also available.

Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00, tel.

22 611 3814, pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat Sun 10:00-20:00, www.chiara-online.pl A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander.

Chrum ul. Dobra 53, tel. 22 415 5224, chrum. com Amid a quirky design that mimics a butcher’s store, find a cult collection of tees and hoodies emblazoned with playful slogans and punchy graphics. Showcasing the fun side of Polski design, Chrum caters to customers who enjoy their fashion with a pinch of humor.

Designer Secret ul. Mokotowska 39 (courtyard), tel. 506 051 048 or 511 649 493, open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-15:00, www.designersecret.pl High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with ladies and mens apparel from the previous years’ collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price.

EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, tel. 22 826 1956, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years. A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories.

Likus Concept Store ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), tel. 22 310 73 13, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Lolly Pop Boutique Al. Jerozolimskie 169 lok 45A (C.H. Blue City, level 1), lollypop.pl Latest fashion from See

by Chloe, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Melissa, UnitedNude, Bronx and many more.

For online shopping, check: sklep.lollypop.pl Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 519 000 049, open Mon-Sat 11:00-19:00, www.zien.pl A flagship boutique from one of the stars of

listings / shopping Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultimate designer showroom.

check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200?

your one-stop fashion solution. Find it all from eclectic jewelry from Anka Krsytyniak and Chocokate, eyewear from Cheap Monday and Woodyglasses, killer heels from United Nude and Melissa & Vivienne Westwood, etc

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, www.moliera2.com Brands include: Balmain, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham and Yves Salomon.

She’s a Riot ul. Mokotowska 24, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-16:00, shop. shesariot.com A fashion-forward label for grownups – women who hover between a rock-inspired, whimsical twist on a retro Mad Men silhouette.

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl

Mostrami.pl www.mostrami.pl Known to insiders as the ‘Polish Net-a-porter’, the online Mostrami portal showcases a whole breed of Polish fashion talent: Blessus, Justyna Chrabelska, Łukasz Jemioł, and Zuo Corp, as well as the rock stars of the local scene such as Kupisz, Zień and Plich.

Vintage Store ul. Dobra 56/66 (Level 1, University of Warsaw library), tel. 501 301 742, www. vintagestore.pl Since its inception the store has grown in many ways – now, used brands like Burberry, Barbour, dresses from the ’70s, Hermes scarves, snakeskin handbags, or original Adidas sweaters from the ’60s and ’70s (the owner is an avid collector) are not an uncommon find in the shop.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands include: Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Moncler, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino and Yves Salomon. And also in the luxury baby corner: baby Dior, Dolce&Gabbana Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids and Tod’s Kids.

Premiere Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein and VJC Versace.

Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, tel. 733 874 609, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.

Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique. Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in

Viola Śpiechowicz ul. Kolejowa 55 (Łomianki), tel. 518 920 124, open Mon-Fri 9:00-15:00, vsstore.eu/ violaspiechowicz.com Viola Spiechowicz is an inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative fashion designer who has cultivated her own original and inimitable style since her 1992 debut. Her designs are the result of a long search for the perfect form, texture and color scheme, lending each project its own unique style: be it fashion, upholstery fabrics or accessory design.

malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl Atelier Mokotowska 63 ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 828 6789 Four levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini, Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented. Intimate, discreet and above all luxurious.

Blind Concept Store ul. Mokotowska 63/100, tel. 501 770 661 From established international names to upcoming local designers, consider Blind

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. mysia3.pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens.

And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

Wola Park (Wola) ul. Górczewska 124, tel. 22 533-4000, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.wolapark.com Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www. zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. www.warsawinsider.pl

73

family education preschools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5.

The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

FAMILY CHILLS AND THRILLS

Zipline Cable Swing (from 7yrs cost 39zl) “Go on Mum, do it!” said my 8-year-old, who’s way too grown-up for crazy challenges like this! After signing the Polish health and safety form I followed the fit instructors and two brave girls (9 years old) to the nose bleed section of the stadium! Top tip: do not wear a long coat or bobble hat. A helmet cannot do its job perched on a bobble and while the red jumpsuit looks professional, the long coat was hoisted to my waist by the tight fitting harness: uncomfortable and unattractive.

I then regretted paying the zł. 20 extra to ride with a selfie camera. I have yet to receive that film footage but the memory of the ride will stay with me for a long time. Looking down on the crowd below, while whizzing at speed across the red/white checkered stadium, is definitely the coolest way to start 2015 in Warsaw.

Ice Skating/Sledging (all ages from zł. 15) This year two ice rinks and two sledging hills dominate the stadium. The latest rink (B) meanders around the café and is also host to regular lessons for children. Tickets are sold with an allocated time slot. Book in advance to avoid disappointment.

Ice Café/Bar Centrally located, perfect for spectating and with food/drink that’s fit for a Tyrolean après ski menu, you could say the only thing lacking in the self-service café is a mountain view. Well, call me crazy, but whilst I sipped my mulled wine and my daughter cupped her hot chocolate the height and gradient of the stadium had a similar wow factor. Take public transport and grown-ups can also hit the Vodka bar!

74

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old.

Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

The British School of Warsaw in Wilanów ul. Hlonda / Ledóchowskiej, tel.

781 988 000, bsww.pl The school is affiliated with University of Cambridge International Examinations which mandates the educational program, qualifications and examinations for pupils up to 19 years of age. Currently admission is offered only to children between 2 and 7 years old (Nursery and Reception, Year 1 levels) for 2014/15.

Older children are encouraged to submit application for 2015/16 or 2016/17.

Buzzy Bee Bilingual Preschool & Kindergarten ul. Śląska 45, tel. 502 036 962 / 22 863 30 96, www.przedszkole-wlochy.pl An English immersion program designed for Polish and international children aged one to five.

The curriculum is conducted in Polish and

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

Mild temperatures, rain galore and gusty storms need not put a dampener on Warsaw’s winter sport scene. Outdoor venues keep snow and ice in good condition but rain and drizzle can be a real buzz kill! The National Stadium (stadionnarodowy.org.pl), however, with its roof on, has created the perfect winter paradise.

listings / family English and prepares children for entry into their Vancouver primary schools. The school is situated in a quiet, green neighborhood of Stare Włochy and includes a 2,000 sq/m garden.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Unit ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English.

The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000, they’re now found on new premises 100m from Mokotów’s Dreszera Park and 300m away from Ogródek Jordanowski. All children are welcome, though available space is limited.

For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei

Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.ecole-montessori.pl The preschool is located in the Saska Kępa district and provides a Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 18 months to 6 years old.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów.

The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com

The International Preschool of Warsaw ul. Kalatowki 24, tel. 22 843 0964, ipw. edu.pl Founded in 1957, the IPW uses an English-language American curriculum and emphasizes values of friendship, community, teamwork and diversity.

Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, open 7.30-17:00, www.hmh.com.pl The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months)

www.warsawinsider.pl

75

listings / family and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, open Mon-Fri 7.30-18:00, www.argonaut.edu.pl This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:15, ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, www.montessoriacademy.eu An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

with different languages, absorbing them in everyday situations. In accordance with the hands-on methodology, children also take part in daily workshops ranging from kitchen science to art and craft classes.

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), open Mon-Fri 7:30-18:30, tel. 517 872 682, www.3languages.pl The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

schools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www. aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers Primrose Bilingual Preschool a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma ul. Bernardyńska 16A lok U7, tel. 22 415 Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are 8500, primrose.edu.pl Following the ‘immerinspired and challenged every day by experision’ method, each class has two teachers enced and dedicated teachers, who provide – one Polish-speaking, the other English. enriching learning opportunities in a world wi_oh_feb12_h.pdf 1 29/01/2015 16:26:13 Through this children have all-day contact class facility. For further information and/

OPEN COME & SEE US!

C

HOUSE February 12

M

Y

CM

TH

MY

CY

March 11TH

CMY

09:00 - 11:00

K

American School of Warsaw

ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna www.aswarsaw.org

76

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 600 247 655, www. canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of IB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Primary School ul. Bełska 7, tel.

692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, www. canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW Established in 1953

Inspire | Challenge | Excel

American School of Warsaw is hosting an Open House for prospective families.

We invite parents and children to come and experience our dynamic learning environment first hand.

R.S.V.P. admissions@aswarsaw.org

listings / family Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.saintexupery.pl Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children aged from 3 to eleven years old in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers.

Lycée Français de Varsovie ul. Walecznych 4/6, tel. 22 616 5400, www.lfv.pl. French school admitting students from the age of two years old. All instruction is in French. Languages offered : Polish, English, German, Spanish, Latin. Also, a wide variety of after school activities (sport, arts, extra-curricular instruction).

Vancouver School ul. Globusowa 38, tel.

887 808 266, vancouverschools.pl The teaching system here combines the best practices and aspects of the Polish and Canadian education systems, with daily classes in English conducted in accordance with the proven method of ‘immersion’ using modern Canadian and British materials.

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www. warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

cafes Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, tel. 512 939 001, open Mon-Sat 10.30-19:00, Sun 11:00-19:00, www.figazmakiem.edu.pl One

of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones romp in the kids room.

Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, tel. 692 448 112, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00, www.fikumikucafe.pl This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children. The focus is on films and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties.

shops Bimbus C ul. Wilcza 69, tel. 22 628 5140, open 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-14:00. www.bimbus.com.

M pl Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child withY nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine CM et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou.

MY

Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel.

22 713 8275, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. www.pieluszkarnia.pl This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and Martello blankets personalized for births etc.

Smyk Multiple stores, tel. 22 462 7250, www. smyk.pl Smyk is Poland’s answer to Mothercare; from bottle sterilizing kits to pencil cases, early learning toys to Disney classics and a wide range of seasonal clothing, this store will take you from childbirth to high school!

Mimbla CY ul.Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 3065, CMY open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00.

Exclusively for kids on Warsaw’s most excluK sive shopping street it’s an Aladdin’s cave of quality toys and Polish/English books. Get your gift wrapped here and both mum and child will be happy even before opening it.

Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop.pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects (from 0 to the first-owned apartment). On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.) from carefully selected brands such as Quax, Lodger, Chispum, Shnuggle, Collegien, Jielde, Gubi and many more besides. It all serves to make it the No. 1 spot for your youngsters shopping. www.warsawinsider.pl

77

health & beauty cycling stores & service AveBmx ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 828 0213, avebmx. pl Cult BMX store in the hip Powiśle district.

Staffed by true enthusiasts who live the BMX lifestyle, it’s the No. 1 spot in Warsaw for those who see BMX as the only way to cycle.

Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej ul. Widok 10, tel. 507 202 572 Glorious bikes, many of them vintage, and many of them in colors that’ll make you the talk of the town. Not just affordable prices, they also promise to fix your bike for free should it suddenly conk out.

DENTAL TREATMENT ARTDENTAL (ul. Łucka 18, artdental.pl) Well-known amongst expats, ArtDental’s service is widely praised for its honest service and moderate prices.

“The one place I really trust,” gushes one Insider.

ASTER MED (ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, astermed.pl) Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons. “There is nothing that can’t be done!” they promise.

DECLINIC (ul. Bernardyńska 16A, declinic.pl) Regarded as one of the most modern clinics in Europe, amongst other innovations DeClinic have swapped the traditional drilling process in favor of abrasive sandblaster – perfect for kids or those who hide at the mere mention of the dentist.

EURODENTAL (various locations, eurodental.pl) English-speaking dentists on request.

Lacking the ‘boutique’ charm of some of Warsaw’s more modish clinics, the service here is both efficient and moderately priced.

ELEKTORALNA DENTAL CLINIC (ul. Elektoralna 28, elektoralna.pl) State-of-the-art dental clinic featuring Poland’s first dental tomograph. Languages spoken include English, German, Spanish and Arabic.

MALO CLINIC (ul. Domaniewska 37 (3rd floor), maloclinics.com/polska) This world class dental clinic incorporates five dental offices, an operating room, two recovery rooms and a state-of-the-art diagnostic center.

78

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

Kettler ul. Okopowa 56, tel. 22 826 3541, pl.kettler. net The world-renowned Kettler brand brings the full extent of their offer to Warsaw. On the bike front that means mountain bikes, city and their innovative e-bikes. This being Kettler, find also numerous other products to contribute to your active lifestyle.

Wygodny Rower Various locations, tel. 888 498 498, wygodnyrower.pl Bike store and service center chain dealing with city bikes, fixed gear, single speed and road bikes. A huge range of bikes, running from Abus to Zefal via manufacturers such as Pashley, Fuji and Adriatica.

gyms Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga,

listings / health & beauty aerobics and even ski conditioning.

Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł.

200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Zodiak ul. Widok 26, tel. 22 100 3400, open 24hrs, www.jatomifitness.pl Poland’s fastest growing fitness chain has been recognized for excellence after being named SCF Leisure & Fitness Retailer of the Year 2014. Other Pure Jatomi clubs in Warsaw include: Blue City, Galeria Renova, Sadyba Best Mall, Promenada and Targówek.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland.

Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well.

Damian Medical Center Various locations, see website for details: damian.pl Established in 1994, Damian offer a wide range of medical services in their hospital and five outpatient clinics. English spoken widely.

McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59 (floor 3, opposite McDonald’s), tel. 22 379 7777, open Mon-Fri 6:00-22:30; Sat 8:00-22:30; Sun 8:00-21:00, www. jatomifitness.pl The largest and fastest growing fitness chain in Poland currently has 35 locations and 117,000 members across the country. All clubs have new generation machines, innovative forms of group activities (Booiaka, Hot Yoga, Pure Pump, Pure Fire and Wah Gwan Dancehall) and professional

personal trainers schooled in nutrition and the healthy lifestyle.

medical clinics

Ren Clinic Al. Gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok.

12A, tel. 22 414 2222 or 501 126 108, www.renclinic.pl Surgical care, cosmetics, medical dermatology, aesthetic medicine and more.

Lux Med Medical Clinics Various locations, see website for details: www.luxmed.pl Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of membership schemes for both private and corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district.

Melitus ul. Słowackiego 12, tel. 22 833 7438, mob.

603 060 621, www.melitus.pl Specializing in dermatology, surgery, phlebology, endocrinology, gynecology and internal medicine.

The clinic is equipped with the latest and most innovative medical equipment and employs several renowned clinicians.

Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress and much more besides.

Warszawskie Centrum Zdrowia ul. Nowogrodzka 76, tel. 22 857 3014, www.wcz.waw.pl Specializes in the prevention, early detection and treatment of cardiovascular disease.

skating National Stadium Al. Poniatowskiego 1, zimowynarodowy.pl This is the one everyone is taking about. Find three rinks (two of which are connected by an ‘ice path’), an ‘ice hill’, a disco rink and a Christmas fair and ‘ice bistro’ in the middle of it all. Last year saw 105,000 people visit, and that number is expected to be smashed this time around. Price: zł. 13-15 for 75 mins.

Old Town Square Rynek Starego Miasto Following its hugely successful debut last year, Old Town’s ice rink returned in December, this time with the rink centered around the mermaid statue. Once again there’s numerous wooden cabins selling mulled wine, snacks and gifts – skating under the stars here is an absolutely magical experience.

Torwar ul. Łazienkowska 6A, torwar.pl Lacking the bells and whistles of other more modern rinks, Towar is something of a blast to the past. Admission is charged at zł. 8-12 with skate rental from zł. 7.

spas & salons Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to www.warsawinsider.pl

79

listings / health & beauty one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.”

Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. Also on Elektoralna 24.

Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414. A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel, level -1), tel.

22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-last guest, www.haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

Izar Repechage ul. Moliera 1, tel. 604 209 900 or 22 827 7195, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:0014:00, www.repechage.net.pl A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatments for the whole body.

Komiks ul. Radna 12, tel. 881 436 056, komiks.waw. pl You know those weird haircuts that people like David Bowie and Lady Gaga have?

Well, here’s the place to make that ultimate fashion statement and get one yourself.

Henna art, manicure / pedicure also offered.

80

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

La Perla multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla. pl Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. For summer the right spa/salon/ clinic is key. La Perla’s all three in one!

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 6290, pardonmyfrench.pl The equipment here is state-of-the art, particularly the massage chairs for indulgent pedicures. While gel tips and all that hybrid stuff is all the rage now, it might be more prudent to get a classic mani/pedi to avoid beauty emergencies when you’re drifting in the middle of the Mediterranean on P. Diddy’s yacht.

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, tel. 22 241 3000 or 505 828 688, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.pedicure-place.pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers.

Spearside ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 789 109 119, spearside.pl Warsaw’s premier male spa / salon offers massage, manicure, scrubs, physiotherapy and a range of treatments aimed at improving your ‘quality of life’. Hair and grooming solutions are provided by Maciej, a barber of exceptional talent.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00, www. jejijego.pl Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

You & You Maciej Wróblewski ul. Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), tel. 606 994 226, youandyou. eu Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej

Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling.

Disappointments are unheard of.

sport BGZ Arena / Velodrome ul. Andrzeja 1 (Pruszków), tel. 22 738 8394, bgzarena.com Bring a cycling helmet and you too can take a spin around the velodrome in Pruszków. Bike hire possible, with spins priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. For further details enquire directly.

Centrum Golf – Sklep & Symulatory Golfowe ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 22 428 88 84, 2golf.pl A great way to introduce yourself to the game, Centrum Golf offers HDGolf simulators that will take you to the world’s most famous gold courses. The center is home to the only open golf league in the country.

Golf Park Jozefów ul. Telimeny (Józefów), tel. 22 778 3090, holiday.aquila.pl A six-hold course plus a floodlit driving range and mini-golf.

Hash House Harriers Billing themselves as ‘the drinking club with a running problem’, the Warsaw chapter of the Hash House Harriers meets every couple of weeks and welcomes runners and walkers of every level. Search for them on Facebook for further details.

Sinnet Club ul. Gołkowska 2, tel. 22 550 3400, www. sinnet.pl An exclusive members sport club featuring full-size indoor tennis courts, two external courts, three squash courts, a 25 meter swimming pool plus spa and gym facilities.

Squash City Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (Blue City), tel. 22 499 6466, squashcity.pl Considered one of the top squash clubs in the country, Squash City covers an area of 1,000 sq/m, with six air-conditioned courts, shop, bar, etc.

Warsaw Cricket Club ul. Romatyczna 3 (Panorama Country Club), warsawcricketclub.pl The oldest cricket club in the country is mainly comprised of Brits, Poles and South Asians. New members and supporters are welcomed – for details check their website.

SPONSORED ARTICLE

Love is Natural!

It’s impossible to miss Valentine’s Day: long before it arrives everything around us becomes redder and pinker! But Valentine’s also reminds us that not everything has a color or shape: there’s an elusive feeling, like the touch of a butterfly. That’s the natural power of love…

W

hen we think about love, we usually imagine the emotions that connect two people. But we can also fall in love with places we visit, beautiful music or even food. Sometimes, that captivating feeling can arrive after removing the seal of some cosmetics…

Love is based on senses. A magical view or a charming scent can steal our hearts. These natural impulses are often the strongest. That’s why PAT&RUB cosmetics are produced without any compromises being made: no parabens, PEGs, artificial fragrances, petroleum derivatives or any other substances forbidden in natural cosmetics.

Exciting in every aspect they’re effective, easy to apply and come with a seductive fragrance and speaks of pure nature.

PAT&RUB revitalizes with cranberry and lemon, relaxes with sweet coconut and lemon grass, and refreshes with the energizing power of oranges, grapefruits and herbs. In winter, PAT&RUB suggest warming up with natural spices: cinnamon, ginger and clove. And there’s one line especially recommended for Valentine’s Day: the Cuddling Line.

First, PAT&RUB cuddles with its warm, sweet caramel aroma, which softly transforms into vanilla. Vanilla – a well-known natural aphrodisiac – brings about contentment and relaxation, while a touch of energizing lemon unexpectedly stimulates.

The Cuddling body butter, with its cake cream consistency, was created for more relaxing treatments, while the Cuddling body balm absorbs perfectly and leaves the skin immediately nourished. Complete body care is provided

by Cuddling hand balm and Cuddling foot balm. For a sensual shower PAT&RUB have prepared their Cuddling shower gel, while Cuddling body oil is perfect for massage.

For winter skin renewal the Cuddling sugar scrub is the perfect solution. Sugar particles efficiently remove dead epidermis while natural butters and oils nourish the skin.

Following the treatment, no additional care is needed.

PAT&RUB ingredients include cold-pressed oils and butters, natural flower waters, sugar, plant and bees wax and biologically active plant extracts. All of them are eco-certified and internationally recognized ingredients.

PAT&RUB use non-refined, cold-pressed oils which maintain all their properties. PAT&RUB create our natural cosmetics according to the rules of the international certification organization NaTrue.

For sensual seduction and a taste of pure nature fall in love with PAT&RUB: it’s natural!

For more info visit: www.patandrub.pl In February: use the code LOVEISNATURAL for a 15% discount on all products in our online shop at www.patandrub.pl Discount lasts till 28/02/2015 www.warsawinsider.pl

81

in the city KISS ME HERE!

With its slender cobbled alleys and snow dusted rooftops, Warsaw’s Old Town continues to entice canoodling couples with its romantic promise. A place of nooks and alcoves, the Insider scopes out the area’s top kiss spots…

1 Setting-up a rendez-vous at Zygmunt’s Column is a Warsaw tradition. All dates begin here!

2 Ever wished he’d pop the big question? Dreams (might) come true on ul. Kanonia – just touch the top of the bell, circle it three times and make a wish. Disclaimer: some sources claim doing so just brings good luck!

3 4

5

Dawna street, with its wall of hearts (see p. 24), is a must for lovebirds looking to cement their relationship with the vicarious thrills that come with collective vandalism.

4 3 2

Pocket-sized stud Napoleon once stood on the steep, stone stairwell at Kamienne Schodki, contemplating eastern conquests. Ponder conquests of a different kind by sharing a smooch on this historic flight of steps.

5

1

6 6

82

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

Huff your way up 150 steps for grand views of Warsaw from the belfry tower of St. Anne’s Church. A sticker bombing campaign even gives confirmation of its status as an approved ‘kiss spot’. Note: closed in bad weather.

photograph by ed wight

There’s something oddly romantic about watching the ice floes drift down the Wisła. Do so at the observation point on ul. Brzozowa.

listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl Hampton by Hilton ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com

to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl Chmielna Guesthouse ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www.chmielnabb.pl Vision Apartments Warsaw Al. Jerozolimskie 81 ( 22nd floor), tel. 22 292 8888, www.visionapartments.eu Vision Apartments specialize in the rental of highquality furnished apartments. In Warsaw, the company is present with designer apartments inside Platinum Towers on ul. Grzybowska.

Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com

RESIDENTS relocation companies

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl

AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com

Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com

Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3535, www.expressrelocations.com

Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl

Warsaw Plaza Hotel ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, www. warsawplazahotel.pl

Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, www.interdean.com

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www. warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. top floor pool, room service, maid service etc.

MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

B&B

Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m.

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

Relo Planet ul. Lwowska 5, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet. com International and domestic removals, transport and logistics solutions including office and individual moves, diplomatic posts, small shipments, storage and artwork. www.warsawinsider.pl

83

listings / in the city polish for foreigners Frog ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, tel. 22 403 7872 or 517 459 418, www.frog.org.pl Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish.

Klub Dialogu Gałczyńskiego 4, lok 903, tel. 664 788 004, www.klubdialogu.pl Individual and group courses held either on-site or at the venue of your choice. Tailor-made packages inc. both intensive and weekend courses.

museums & galleries Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing: Habitat. This unique summary of Katarzyna Józefowicz’s work includes sculptures and drawings made on or using ephemeral materials such as newspaper and cardboard. Ongoing till April 19: Natalia LL – Secretum et Tremor. The largest solo exhibition of Natalia LL for 16 years juxtaposes her early video and photographic work of the 1960s against lesser known existentialist works from the last two decades.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion and one of the city’s top secrets. Ongoing until April 6: The Great War in the East (1914-

84

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

1918). Usually associated with the Western Front, this photographic exhibition aims to redress the balance by covering WWI from an eastern angle.

Museum of Communist Life ul. Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), tel.

606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. A must see!

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical interwar Jewish Warsaw street.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, artmuseum.pl The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary Polish and international art. From Feb 12: Recto / Verso – Andrzej Wróblewski. This exhibition concentrates, we’re told, on two phases of this Polish artist’s work: the very beginning, when he was trying to discover his own style (1948-1949), and the very end (1956-1957) when, after a period of faith in socialist realism, he attempted to redefine himself and start from scratch. From Feb 12: Lest The Two Seas Meet. Inspired by the Arab Spring, presents the works of numerous international artists, among them Mona Hatoum, Emily Jacir and Walid Raad.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city.

Among the collection are 35 landmark signs,

many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

Park Miniatur ul. Bracka 25 (Dom Jabłońskich, level -1), pl.miniaturymazowieckie.com Although the park consists of only eight 1:25 scale models of some of the most beautiful and important buildings from Warsaw’s past, the zł. 12 admission is certainly worth it. Brilliant details abound in this Lilliputian world, with helpful English explanations accompanying the models.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Bernardo Bellotto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Zachęta has a thrilling, and at times controversial repertoire that makes it a must for modern art buffs. Ongoing till Feb 15: Progress & Hygiene. Devoted to the pitfalls of modernization, this thought-provoking exhibition deals with subjects of genetic engineering, eugenics and racial purity. From Feb 10: Przemysław Matecki – Rough. Describing himself as an ‘easel painter’, this exhibition brings together recent paintings by Matecki, many drawn on impulse in short time frames.

CLASSIFIEDS

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

African Tales

by Shakespeare

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Directed by Krzysztof Warlikowski Venue: ATM Studio, Wał Miedzeszyński 384

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

27th–28th of February 2015 1st of March 2015

5% DISCOUNT with this ad

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

+48 500 033 414

WARSAW at your fingertips...

All shows subtitled in English

Bookings: 22 379 33 33 | bow@nowyteatr.org | ebilet.pl | bilety24.pl Tickets: 35-65 PLN

www.nowyteatr.org Media partners:

Co-financed by:

Nowy Teatr is financed by:

Check Out The Insider Online Designed to reflect the nature of a dynamic and energizing capital, the Online Insider brings you unique digital features such as our weekly blog, the latest news and views from the streets, as well as all the regular features and reviews found in Poland’s premier English-language magazine.

See for yourself at: www.warsawinsider.pl

Stadion Narodowy

5

4

6

3 1

1

2

3 (Located in courtyard)

4

2 5

Chodk iewicza

Biały K amień

Żaryna

Kulskiego

6

Bitter Sweet Symphony

Delighting generations of Poles with its confections, the story behind the Warsaw-based Wedel chocolate firm is a bitter-sweet tale… BY STUART DOWELL

T

he story began in 1851 when Karol Wedel started producing and selling confectionary on Miodowa. In those days, sweets were regarded as medicine and the first products, cream caramels, were advertised as a treatment for chest pain. The people of Warsaw lapped up Wedel’s treats so much that in 1865 production moved to the eclectic renaissance building at ul. Szpitalna 8. The Wedel café, which has been serving hot chocolate more or less continuously since the building was erected, has become a 24-carat legend and demands a visit from any self-respecting visitor to the city. Those who do go can wonder if they are sitting in the same spot as literary greats such as Bolesław Prus and Henryk Sienkiewicz, who were choc-loving regulars.

In 1876, Karol Wedel gave the company to son Emil as a generous wedding gift. Emil proved to be a competent steward of the business and it was he who, in an attempt to foil would-be counterfeiters, added the famous E. Wedel signature to each package, a tradition that continues today. The next

88

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2015

generation of the family business was represented by Jan, an innovative business man with a strong social conscience who developed the company’s export business as far as Japan and even bought an aeroplane in 1936 for speedy deliveries within Poland. In the 1930s, Jan moved the company to a state-of-the-art factory in Warsaw’s Kamionek district, where it operates to this day.

Jan Wedel had many ambitious plans, but the outbreak of WWII put a stop to those and production was taken over by the Germans. Jan remained in charge of the factory and made sure that his staff received food supplements despite the risk of severe punishment. The factory was damaged significantly during the Warsaw Uprising as a result of aerial bombardment and deliberate destruction; however, as early as November 10th, 1944, an 80 kg consignment of caramels left the war-damaged site for the National Liberation Committee in Lublin (a favour that was not returned).

After the war, Jan set about rebuilding the factory only for the company to be nationalised in 1949. He would spend his final years sitting on a bench each day in Skaryszewski Park looking across Kamionek Lake at the factory he had built but was no longer allowed to enter.

A low point in the company’s history came in the 1980s when foreign exchange shortages in the Eastern Bloc meant that cocoa could not be imported and the factory was forced to produce unappealing ersatz chocolate products. The company’s fortunes have brightened since then, and despite being kicked around like a football from PepsiCo to Cadbury to Kraft, and finally to the Japanese Lotte Holdings, as well as claims from members of the Wedel family that finally ended in a multi-million dollar settlement, the business is thriving and doing what it does best: making delicious confectionary that’s become part of local lore.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WEDEL

LOOKING BACK