Warsaw Insider August 2014 #216

A Day at the A Look at Warsaw Races Oleandrów page 18

Warsaw

page 20

Cosmopolitan Tower page 16

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BALMAIN CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT JIMMY CHOO KENZO MONCLER GAMME ROUGE KENZO MONCLER GAMME RALPH LAUREN ROUGE SALVATORERALPH FERRAGAMO LAUREN SIMONETTA RAVIZZA TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

AUGUST 2014 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

16 Architecture

Contributors: Piers Bright Gill Boelman-Burrows Filip Dutkiewicz Karolina Kalinowska Vedika Luthra Michał Miszkurka Agnes Monod-Gayraud Ed Wight

Helmut Jahn’s Cosmopolitan tower has already won adulation aplenty, but what’s it like all the way up the top?

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

18 Horse Racing

Ed Wight hobnobs with high society to bring you the full lowdown on the 70th Warsaw Derby.

20 Street Scout

Oleandrów has climbed out of Zbawiciela’s shadow and is this summer’s place to see and be spotted…

I’m sat in a dark, pokey office finishing up for the day. I’m the only one left and there’s nothing in the air apart from that suffocating stillness of a sweaty Polish summer. And then it happens: air raid sirens. Not just one, but thousands of the buggers. Being new to Poland, I was something of a wide-eyed innocent. My first instinct was that something nuclear had gone boom and we were under attack. Only when I looked out of the window did my panic ease off. People weren’t running around like strangled chickens, rather they were standing still. Reverentially so. Of course, as I learnt later, this was W-Hour, the local way of marking the outbreak of the Warsaw Uprising. Profoundly moving, this moment on August 1 tingles the spine each and every time. Even outsiders comment on its powerful impact; you feel a connection to the city, an understanding of it. And it reminds you of what a wonderful Warsaw it is that we live in

LISTINGS 24 Travel

Oh lord. A trip to Świebodzin county reveals the world’s biggest Jesus and a region of surprises.

2

Restaurants 38 Cafes & Wine Bars 67 Nightlife 72 Shopping 80 Family 86 Health & Beauty 91 In the City 95

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2014

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

INFRONT

Opener 7 News 8 Running 10 Spotlight 12 Profile 14

INBACK

Classifieds 101 Map 102 Bar Spy 104

REVIEWS

Restaurants Tapas Gastrobar 32 NATU Wine & Rest 32 Tamka 36

Key Account Manager Agata Torańska atoranska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2014 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover And they’re off! The Insider’s day at the races (see p. 18) is our cover artist’s inspiration for this issue. Go on boy!

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP KEVIN DEMARIA (2) ED WIGHT (2)

I remember that first Polish summer. August 1, 2001, and

MONCLER RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TOM FORD TORY BURCH VALENTINO

BABY DIOR DOLCE&GABBANA KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

Jazz in the Old Town Every Sat, till August 30 @ Old Town Square Running each Saturday throughout the summer, the 20th edition of Jazz in the Old Town will bring together a number of international artists to perform for free in the Rynek. Attracting audiences of up to 4,000 people, artists booked for August include the Roy Hargrove Quintet and the Tord Gustavsen Quartet.

For info see: jazznastarowce.pl

COMEDY

Improv Sunday’s Every Sun, 20:00 @ Cafe Niespodzianka, ul. Marszałkowska 7 A theatrical English-language performance group with a focus on improvised comedy. They say: “we’re always looking for talented people to join us on stage.”

For info see: improv.pl

FILM

Filmowa Stolica

Editor’s Pick Patti Smith The ‘godmother of punk’ will be performing at the Sowiński Park Amphitheatre this August. Her mix of raw rock and maverick poetry mark this as one for the diary.

Tickets from zł. 110 @ eventim.pl

Throughout Aug @ various locations A series of open air film screenings in scenic locations across the capital: among them the Copernicus Center, the roof garden of the University Library and a number of parks. The repertoire is as diverse as the locations.

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2014

For info, see: kinoperla.pl

CONCERT

Chopin in Łazienki Every Sun, 12:00 & 16:00 @ Łazienki Park, ul. Agrykola The free open-air concerts held by the Chopin Monument in Łazienki Park are a Warsaw summer staple. Attracting hundreds of people, and often more, the concerts features some of Poland’s top pianists playing Chopin’s best known works.

For info see: lazienki-krolewskie.pl

EXHIBITION

Maria Papa Rostowska Throughout August @ Królikarnia, ul. Puławska 113A Królikarnia showcases various forms of art throughout the year. During August, works by Maria Papa Rostowska, a renowned Polish sculptress who lived in both Italy and France during the 20th century will be displayed.

EVENT

Warsaw Uprising Anniversary

Every Sat, 9:00 @ Praga (Park Skaryszewski), Ursynów (park next to Bazantarnia), Żoliborz (Kępa Potocka park) Improve your run time by participating in the 5k Parkrun held across three locations each Saturday. Unlike the timed races you get in Warsaw, taking part in this one is free of charge.

Aug 1 @ various locations The 70th anniversary of the Warsaw Uprising will be commemorated by way of numerous services, exhibitions, lectures and screenings throughout the month. It’s August 1 that will be the most poignant day, with events including a ceremonial changing of the guard at noon in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the singing of songs banned under the Nazis at 8 p.m. on pl. Piłsudskiego, the 9 p.m. lighting of bonfires on the Uprising Mound on ul.

Bartycka, and the midnight gala premier of Krystyna Janda’s theater production A Memoir of the Warsaw Uprising.

For info see: parkrun.pl

For info, see: 1944.pl

FILM

CONCERT

Dates vary @ Patio (Kredytowa 9), Park Skaryszewski, Pomost 511 (Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej) Organized by the Perła brewery, this nationwide initiative brings film to the

Aug 2, 20:00 @ Plażowa, Wybrzeże Szczecińskie 1 Comprising of vocalist Klaudia Szafrańska and instrumentalist Michał Wasilewski this Polish dance duo have

For more info, check: facebook.com/filmowastolica

RECREATION

Parkrun

Kino Perła

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masses. Usually held on Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday, films range in scope and genre though lean towards more underground productions. Admission is free.

XXANAXX & Phon.o Live

“Patti Smith performing in Finland, 2007” by Beni Köhler

this month...

MUSIC FESTIVAL

become known for their edgy, experimental style and haunting vocals since forming in 2012.

Free admission

SIGHTSEEING

Museum of the History of Polish Jews Aug 2, 14:00 @ Museum of the History of Polish Jews (Anielewicza 6) A guided walk around this eagerly awaited museum with info about the history and area that the museum is in. While the tour will be in Polish, it’s a great opportunity for a sneak peak at the museum.

For info and booking: rezerwacje@jewishmuseum.org.pl

FOOD

Żarcie Na Kółkach Aug 2 & 3 @ Pl. Defilad 1 (Palace of Culture) Found in that bit between Cafe Kulturalna and Bar Studio, the latest episode of Żarcie Na Kółkach will bring together over 40 of Warsaw’s food trucks. Entertainment will be supplied by way of DJs with names like Burn Reynolds.

stalls selling cycling accessories and fashion at this one-of-a-kind event.

and Major look. For full details check: ifestival.illegalbreaks.com

For more info, check: tematrzeka.com

Tickets from zł. 96 @ biletomat.pl

COMEDY

RECREATION

Aug 6, 8 & 10, 19:00 @ Cinema City Arkadia, Al. Jana Pawła II 82 No, the Pythons aren’t appearing in Poland, but full footage of their summer appearance(s) at London’s 02 Arena will be relayed to Arkadia’s Cinema City during this must-see event. The 3-hour show was filmed in July and is widely regarded as the last time the Pythons will ever perform together live.

Aug 14 & 28 Join thousands of roller bladers as they skate about Warsaw following a 15km route. Starting at 20:30, usually by the Copernicus Monument on Krakowskie Przedmieście, the mass skate concludes at around about 23:00.

Monty Python

EVENT

Targowisko Warszawa Aug 9, 11:00 @ Temat Rzeka, under Most Poniatowskiego Split into three parts this event brings you a fashion / design area featuring local trends, a food and relaxation zone with massage and food stalls, and a market where haggling is expected and encouraged.

For more info, check: tematrzeka.com

EVENT

MUSIC FESTIVAL

Aug 3, 11:00 @ Temat Rzeka, under Most Poniatowskiego The sixth installment of this cult event.

Fixed gear bikes, cruisers, Dutch bikes, etc. And aside from all manner of bicycles to stare at and covet, find a number of

Aug 12 @ Soho Factory, Mińska 25 The fourth edition of the ifestival will be jointly co-hosted by Warsaw and Gdansk. The stars of the show are Die Antwoord, a South African rap-rave band. Other artists include Dub FX

Bike & Fashion Fair

ifestival

Night Skating

For details see: nightskating.waw.pl

CONCERT

Fabrica del Tango Aug 24 @ Park Kombatantów, Ks.J. Chrościckiego 2 Sprightly Argentinian tango compositions as interpreted by Fabrica del Tango. Not just lively tango numbers either, we’re also promised film themes and scores from well-known musicals.

Free admission

EVENT

Warsaw Record Fair Aug 30, 14:00 @ Hybrydy, ul. Złota 7/9 A monthly record fair attracting traders and enthusiasts from as far afield as Kraków. Thousands of LPs and CDs on sale, including several of vintage variety, as well as record paraphernalia such as needles, brushes, etc.

For info see: hybrydy.com.pl

The British School of Warsaw In Wilanów Supervised by the Primary School Inspectorate (UK Dept. of Education) Educational programme by the University of Cambridge International Examinations Candidate Member of the Council of British International Schools Junior School (ages 2-9) opening in 2014 Senior School (ages 10-18) opening in 2016 All nationalities welcome!

Fluent English not required for admission to the Junior School. www.bsww.pl + 48 781 988 000

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in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town…

THE RISING IN NUMBERS

54.6 Billion Dollars

A 2005 estimate regarding total damage

4.6 Million

Visitors to the Rising Museum since it opened in 2004

1

Million

Inhabitants who lost everything

100,000 Mines

LOCAL

Warsaw Remembers

WARSAW UPRISING, THE FILM

On August 1st, 5 p.m., the capital will come to a standstill as it pauses to remember the 70th anniversary of the Warsaw Uprising. A savage 63-day struggle defined as much by its barbarity as its bravery, the 1944 insurgency against the occupying Nazis continues to elicit fierce debate. Could the allies have done more? Was it worth it? The cost was immense, with over 250,000 lives lost and Warsaw was changed forever. Following the capitulation, and on Hitler’s personal orders, what remained of the city was methodically destroyed. By the time Soviet forces entered Warsaw 20 million cubic meters of rubble buried what had once been labelled the Paris of the East. A number of events throughout August have been planned to honor the battle, including the lighting of a memorial fire on the Uprising Mound in the Czerniaków district. The flames will be kept alive for a symbolic 63 days.

“Was the Rising a story of betrayal? Was it heroism?

Was it realistic? Was it folly?

Well, it was all of the above” QUOTE PROFESSOR MAREK JAN CHODAKIEWICZ

Neutralized in the first few months after liberation

3,000 People

Estimated to have remained in Warsaw after the Uprising

94 Per cent

Of historical buildings destroyed

84 Per cent

Of Warsaw completely destroyed

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p.m.

W-hour, the time the Uprising was launched on August 1st, 1944

www.warsawinsider.pl

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inFront

News

LOCAL

Towering Inferno

Work halted on Ghelamco’s Warsaw Spire on July 3rd after a stack of Styrofoam boards caught fire on the 16th floor of the project. With smoke billowing over the Wola district, five fire crews took 15 minutes to bring the blaze under control. A spokesman for the developer later stated that no-one had been hurt in the fire and that construction would not face delay.

The 220 meter tower is slated for completion in Q4 of this year.

CULTURE

Animal Magic

Till August 15th visitors will be able to listen to a group of goldpainted deer issuing their opinions on the state of local theater and its importance to the city – really. Devised by artist Eliza Proszczuk, the barmy installation – in front of the Palace of Culture’s Teatr Dramatyczyny – utilizes discarded stage props as well as prerecorded sound bites taken from passers-by. The project is part of a long-term vision to create a multi-functional public space in front of PKiN. Pop-up installations incorporating unwanted props will appear in the area on a rotating basis over the next three years.

CITY

Warsaw Tops Paris

A survey conducted by Ipsos has revealed that 91% of Varsovians are happy with the overall quality of life in their city, in comparison to just 80% of Parisians. 51% of respondents also claimed to be happy with the career opportunities available to them, a significantly higher proportion than the 33% found in the other cities surveyed.

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Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2014

80%

91%

Restauracja Dom Polski ul. Francuska 11 03-906 Warszawa Tel. 22Â 616 2488 / 22Â 616 2432 www.restauracjadompolski.pl restauracjadompolski@wp.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

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inFront

Running

In The Long Run

P

eople I never expected to meet in Warsaw, part one: a witch doctor. And not just any witch doctor but The Witch Doctor. Waiting for him in Cześć, I’m half expecting the doc to jangle in with a scary mask and vials of snake sperm. In actuality, he enters wearing a t-shirt and shorts. His name is Martin. The Witch Doctor, he explains, is his Hash name. Lost already? Read on.

Formed in Kuala Lumpur in 1938, disbanded, then reformed in 1962, the Hash House Harriers have since become a global phenomenon. Dubbing themselves as ‘the drinking club with a running problem’, it’s estimated half a million people ‘hash’ across the globe each weekend. A small percentage are to be found in Warsaw.

“We’ve had up to 30 people at times,” says the doc, “but our numbers, like ex-pat figures, are declining.”

This wasn’t always the case. Formed in 1983 by the Iceman, the Warsaw chapter of the Hash was a runaway success. “There really wasn’t much else to do at the weekends during communism,” smiles Martin. Even so, the early days were fraught with problems, and the Hash was even banned at one stage until a sneaky bribe was accepted by the local cops – who, apparently, wanted in on the ‘on-after’, i.e., the traditional post-run drinks.

And yes, drinks are a very important aspect of the Hash. “We’re a social group,” says Witch Doctor, “that happens to have some good runners in it – but most aren’t.” Events take place every two weeks and adhere to Hash tradition. “We appoint a ‘hare’,” says the doc,

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“and it’s his duty to set a trail – usually using flour – that the rest will follow. A good trail will include numerous diversions which serve to hold the group together.” Not that holding the group together is a problem. “This isn’t a race,” stresses Martin, “it’s about fun.”

The route is usually about eight kilometers, and has taken the Hash to all corners of Warsaw. The Old Town, though, is a sore point. “Blimey,” says Martin, “I was late one time, and by the time I turned up to the designated meeting point I saw the group surrounded by police.” The situation got worse. “Sniffer dogs arrived, fire engines, blokes in hazmat suits,” grins the Witch Doctor, “some old woman saw our ‘hare’ laying a trail and reported suspicious activity. When the police arrived they assumed there was an Anthrax attack on Warsaw!”

The culprit that time was Wet Pussy, so named because he once accidentally urinated on his cat. The names, much like the socializing, are a big element of the Hash and are awarded over time once the group has assessed the individual and identified their weak points. “Once we finish the run we have a few tinnies outside in what we call ‘the circle’,” says Martin, “awards are handed out to people who’ve misbehaved, and it’s a good time to decide on new names.” And after? “We go the Hash Kennel, which nowadays is Legends pub.” See you there.

For more info on the Warsaw Hash, contact The Witch Doctor at: warsawh3@gmail.com

SHUTTERSTOCK

Thirty one years old, the Warsaw branch of the Hash House Harriers is a bona fide ex-pat institution. We learn more about their heritage and tradition… BY ALEX WEBBER

“Senses is about being honest and emotional about the food.

Using the finest produce we are innovative and modern yet surprisingly familiar."

Andrea Camastra Chef de Cuisine

“Rediscover Your Senses”

12 Bielańska Street, Warsaw („Senator” building ) P: + 48 22 331 96 97 M: +48 733 390 000 @: restaurant@sensesrestaurant.pl www.sensesrestaurant.pl

inFront

Spotlight

FESTIVAL

11th Singer Festival of Jewish Culture August 23-32, various locations

THE SQUARE ROOT OF WARSAW

A microcosm of Warsaw, nowhere illustrates the capital’s Jekyll and Hyde personality better than Pl. Grzybowski…

A

sk a tour guide their favorite part of town and the answer may surprise you. Sure, there’s those who’ll prattle on about Old Town, but those who really know their stuff will offer something different: Pl. Grzybowski. Rafał Patla of Adventure Warsaw is one such guide: “look around,” says Rafał, “nowhere else presents the different aspects of Warsaw’s timeline better.” And guess what, he’s right. From here you see everything: from Communist oppression represented by way of the scowling Palace of Culture all the way to the capitalist, corporate cathedrals such as the Rondo 1 tower.

The square itself is inexorably linked with Warsaw’s Jewish past, and it’s here you’ll find Europe’s only Yiddish langue theater. Once a shabby section of town, Grzybowski was reinvigorated in 2007 by Joanna Rajkowska’s Oxygenate project. Best known for creating Warsaw’s palm tree, Rajkowska gave Grzybowski new spark after transforming its dark, rundown park into the modern plaza we see today.

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Framing this strip are a series of noteworthy buildings, the most prominent being All Saints’ Church.

Completed in 1893, its 3,500 capacity was tested to the max when Pope JP II and Mother Teresa visited in 1987.

While All Saints’ was designed by Enrico Marconi, his son, Leandro, was behind the synagogue on Twarda 6. Standing in the shadow of the Cosmopolitan tower, this was the only Warsaw synagogue to survive the war – have a look inside in return for zł. 6.

Afterwards, cross back to Grzybowski and onto Próżna. Once hailed as Warsaw’s most authentic pre-war street what was formerly a genuine relic from bygone times (and the only surviving Ghetto street) is in the grip of restoration and gentrification. Even so, there’s an unmistakable air of yesterday here.

Lastly, don’t miss the PASTa Tower on Zielna 39 (yes, that is how it’s spelt).

Completed in 1908, this was Warsaw’s first skyscraper. It was a key point of struggle during the Uprising, and still retains its patriotic links by housing a veterans association.

Held for the first time in 2004, Warsaw’s annual Singer festival has grown rapidly, establishing itself as one of Europe’s most anticipated festivals of Jewish culture. Over 200 events are planned and these include screenings, guided walks, discussions and workshops. While Próżna and pl. Grzybowski will be the focal point, a number of happenings are scheduled for Praga and Muranów.

Acts that have already been confirmed include Israeli jazz stars Harold Rubin and Daniel Zamir, pianist Kuba Stankiewicz and multiplatinum cantor David D’Or. Over the course of the week, there’ll also be an attempt at a Guinness World Record (the number of people sitting at a table). In all, the organizers expect the 11th Singer Festival to draw 35,000 visitors, making it the biggest to date. For info, see: festiwalsingera.pl

inFront

Architect The visualized Jebel Al Dubai project

IN PROFILE

Helmut Jahn

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Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2014

whether it works,” he says, “it’s not as simple as asking the people in the office whether they like it. And I’m not talking about the applause from critics or outsiders. They’re entitled to have an opinion – but how can

they judge how comfortable a building is? No critic is smart enough to judge how a building will perform over time.” That might be the case, but for the time being we’re happy with what we’ve got.

GOING SUPERSONIC

Today, a new generation of airports have been built to reflect and represent the city that they’re in. Predating this trend, Helmut Jahn has long aspired to create terminals that are defined by their individuality.

O’Hare Terminal, Chicago – the project that earned Jahn the Flash Gordon moniker.

Munich Airport was named one of the Top 11 Craziest Airports in the World.

And so was his design for Bangkok Airport, otherwise known as ‘the airport of smiles’.

PORTRAIT OF HELMUT JAHN BY DR. ALBRECHT BANGERT

“When I think of some of my earlier work,” says Helmut Jahn, “it really seems a fortunate coincidence that I succeeded.” As a quote it might be purely apocryphal, but the people of Warsaw are sure glad he did. Considered something of a starchitect, German-born Jahn forged his reputation in the States with projects such as Philadelphia’s One Liberty Place. Dubbed Flash Gordon following the realization of the sci-fi looking Terminal 1 of O’Hare International (‘the terminal of the future’), Jahn has continued to wow the world with his bewildering designs.

“I embrace buildings with moves,” he explains in an interview with Archidea, “simplicity in a suburban strop can become an icon and something easily recognized. Remember that it’s still about the bottom line.

Creativity has more to do with the elimination of the inessential than with piling on extraneous elements.”

As such, his first foray in Poland – Warsaw’s Cosmopolitan – is in keeping with this mantra. Edgy and exciting yet clean and classical, it’s already been embraced as a welcome addition to Warsaw’s silhouette.

“A building is hard to judge. It takes many years to find out

Everyday is full of taste!

Weekends: Let’s start it with brunch. From 10 a.m. till 1 p.m. we offer„Omlet Fit”, scrambled eggs with bacon and homemade „Granola Smaki Warszawy”.

Thursdays: From 7 p.m. come over and enjoy live entertainment and delicious dinner.

Sundays: Between 1 p.m. and 5 p.m. we invite you for a delectable family dinner during which all kids receive free fruit-filled pierogies.

Warsaw, Żurawia 47/49, open: 7.00 - 22.00, reservations: tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68 www.smakiwarszawy.pl

ARCHITECTURE

The High Life

Helmut Jahn’s Cosmopolitan is the latest tower to add sparkle to the skyline – and what a pretty thing...

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

N

o longer a stumpy adolescent, Warsaw has grown up – fast.

Zipping to the 44th floor of Cosmopolitan, vertigo sets in as we press our noses to the floor-toceiling windows. It is as if we have entered the land of giants: on the horizon, the National Stadium could fit onto the palm of my hand. You feel you could almost blow it away: puff, and it’s gone.

Unlike the nearby Złota Tower, which has been nothing if not a light-

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Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2014

ning rod for negativity, Cosmopolitan has already met with widespread approval from the local population.

Buyers, too, have been impressed.

Completed in June, half the units have already gone. Of course, high living comes at a high price: costs average zł. 25,000 sq/m. But this is not a grot hole you’re getting. The finishes are extraordinary: oak wood floors, Italian marble bathrooms, Duravit toilets and kitchens by Miele.

Thinking of a refit? Why bother.

THE COSMO IN NUMBERS 25,000 Clockwise from top: aligned design; a long way down from the room with a view; communal area on Floor 4; nice view for the washing up; Miele kitchen equipment lends a touch of class; an ant’s perspective.

Average price per sq/m (zł.)

700

Sq/m - the largest flats

236

Apartments

160

Meters tall

54

Sq/m – the smallest flats

44

Storeys

7th

Tallest building in Poland

And there’s technology: an electronic home management system that controls blinds, temperatures and even the tune on your morning alarm.

For all this, it is above all the views one appreciates. Not for the faint of heart, the windows are like a gateway to heaven – sit in front of them long enough and you’ll see angels in the clouds. Should you do so, communication is easier than you think.

Unlike other skyscrapers, hermetically sealed from the outside world, there are windows here that open – tall and narrow and 2.6 meters high, only a row of safety bars prevent you from falling to earth and landing with a thump. As we open one such window, a woozy rush drains the blood from the head. It’s thrilling.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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HORSE RACING

The Mane Attraction

Not sure what to expect turning up at the 70th Warsaw Derby, the Insider finds thrills, spills and high couture. STORY & PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

S

tanding in the VIP section overlooking the course, we gaze down on a sea of color and finery, marveling at the flow of confident Darcy-esque gents and the magnificently accoutred ladies. Being the Sport of Kings, Warsaw’s Derby Day attracts the beautiful, rich and famous and it’s not long before we bump into TV celebrities Kinga Rusin and Poland’s Top Model judge, fashion designer Katarzyna Sokolowska. “We’ve just come back from Ascot,” laughs horse-loving Kinga as they pose for our camera.They haven’t but we all chuckle anyway.

As we saunter through the crowds, past a tent offering fancy hats to those who hadn’t brought one, I make a quick mental revision of my previous night’s homework. Taking off in 1777 when a mare belonging to Parliamentary Deputy Kazimierz Rzewuski thrashed that of English MP Sir Charles Whitworth in a race from Wola to Ujazdów, the gee-gees were soon to become a staple part of Warsaw’s sporting history. A century later that was formalized with a 1km track built at Pole Mokotowskie, where it stayed until moving to

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its current location in 1939. Today Służewiec is the premier racetrack in Poland and internationally recognized as such, attracting thoroughbreds and a host of international breeders, owners and trainers. Some of them, a bunch of Ukrainian millionaires, had apparently booked the top floor of the VIP building for the Derby, I was told later.

Another is British ex-pat racing horse owner Graham Richards. Roguishly raffish, he looks like he’s strolled straight out of the pages of a Jane Austin classic. “I’ve been racing horses for 15 years but moved my entire stable to Poland four years ago,” he explains. “I prefer racing here than in the UK. It’s cheaper, the horses get to race more often and being in Warsaw I get to see them train as often as I want.” This was good stuff. The first proper conversation I’d had all day. “Naturally, there are some problems,” he continued. “When I first came here I wanted to put my mare out for breeding and Googled ‘Polish Stud’. There are a lot of gay websites out there.”

We wandered down to the race course in time to catch

“ As they thundered past, the crowds began to cheer and yell wildly, as did we, carried away with it all ” Clockwise from below: owner Graham Richards and the faithful Harry; psyching up behind the scenes; “seeing the horses race goes beyond anything I can articulate”; hat’s a winner - Magdalena Witosz.

the main event, the Derby itself. With nine races throughout the day, this was the big one. “There’s a visceral excitement about horse racing,” Graham went on. “It’s not the money, it’s not the prestige. It’s simply seeing the horses’ race. It goes beyond anything I can articulate.” It didn’t take long to see what he meant. As the gate went up and 15 slavering steeds charged forward, hurtling around the 2,400 meter track at 50mph, I also felt a surge of excitement. As they thundered past, the crowds began to cheer and yell wildly, as did we, carried away with it all.

The winner, Greek Sphere ridden by Czech jockey Tomas Lukasek, was a foregone conclusion, explained Graham as we headed towards the stables. “That’s why Harry Spires wasn’t there.” Harry Spires is his 3-year-old English thoroughbred bay colt, a striking reddish-brown beauty who lives here. He’s not alone. Covering 130 hectares, Służewiec is home to 800 horses from across Europe, training facilities and a village for the 1,000-odd blacksmiths, race course staff and trainers. We meet Harry’s trainer, Gosia, in

her office, a room littered with horsey ornaments inside the actual stables. She’s lived here for about 25 years, she told us as Graham led Harry over. “He’s got great composition,” she smiled. “Lovely long legs, a long, straight neck and a short, strong back.” I decided she meant the horse, not the owner. “He’s a winner,” added Graham. “His sire won the Eclipse Stakes in 2007, and his great grandfather was the great Nijinsky.”

As a finale, we went to find the winner of the ladies’ hat competition and arrived just as she was being announced, a buxom brunette called Magdalena Witosz. Too swept up in the emotion of victory to give me anything other than her name and a winning smile, she modelled her Alice in Wonderland-type of top hat with celebrity-style grace as a phalanx of snappers surrounded her. And that was a fitting summary, I thought. The Warsaw Derby was for dressing up, having fun and feeling like a winner, if not actually being one. It may not be Ascot, but it feels like it. And that was good enough for me. www.warsawinsider.pl

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TAKE A STREET OLEANDRÓW

Street Scout: Oleandrów

Often overlooked as a grey stretch of nothing, Oleandrów street is in fact alive with energy and enterprise and bold self-expression… BY VEDIKA LUTHRA & ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS KEVIN DEMARIA Kurczaki

Oleandrów 8

If you like your birds spit-roasted then look no further than Kurczaki, a budget eatery whose specialty is chicken. Wait it out in sweltering temperatures before being rewarded by ace chicken cooked in varying sizes and styles: depending on the day, that could mean in beer or in Thai or Jamaican sauces.

Latający Obiekt Oleandrów 3

“I like Frisbee, I like beer – that’s why I created this place,” so says Piotr, the owner.

Made in Canada Frisbees come in all colors and shapes (even mini-size for mutts), and are complimented by regional beers and homemade biscuits. A bizarre find in Poland – likely the first of its kind.

M2

Oleandrów 6

Open since 2007, the M2 gallery represents a series of young Polish artists already firmly on the road to success: Jakub Adamek, Paweł Dunal and Agnieszka

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Kieliszczyk to mention but a few. This independent gallery is a window into the bold creativity of New Poland.

Makutra

Oleandrów 5

Looking for a Born to Grill apron? Or maybe the latest cookbook from Thomas Keller?

Or how about pots and pans from Riess?

Installed as one of the top kitchenware stores in town, Makutra has the lot. As owner Magdalena Raczkowska says: “It’s for people who love cooking and love beautiful things.” Quite.

Małe Piwo Oleandrów 4

Hands up who loves good beer? Thought so. Małe Piwo have been a sensation since opening, preempting the craft beer trend and in the process attracting huge crowds of every sub-section of the hipster community. The choice of bottles is immense, and enjoyed in an edgy, dive bar background.

Okienko Polna 22

Belgian-style fries served in paper cones right from out of a street-side hatch. Yes they’re good, but they’re bettered by the sauces that are written up in marker pen on the tiled walls. With money exchanged, do your eating on the upturned crates left on the side of the curb.

Safripsti

Oleandrów 3

Proprietor Magdalena Wińska spent years in London and Paris working as a make-up artist, and her sense of style is evident in Safripsti, a vintage boutique that mixes timeless classics with retro must-haves.

Strefa

Oleandrów 3

A pleasing find, Strefa’s casual atmosphere is emphasized by a stack of board games and books in the corner – people come here to dwell and dawdle over hot coffee, craft beer, changing art and a slice of homemade cake. A strong sense of neighborhood prevails, with owners of neighboring businesses always swinging by for a chat and a chew.

Safripsti

Okienko

LatajÄ…cy Obiekt

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TRAVEL ŚWIEBODZIN AND BEYOND

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Where Angels Fear to Tread

Not even the world’s biggest Jesus draws the tourists to Świebodzin county – and they don’t know what they’re missing… The Insider discovers Poland’s best kept secret.

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

Clockwise from top: “Jesus went that way!” Łagów; like something straight from Rapunzel, Łagów; The Big J. of Świebodzin.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL ŚWIEBODZIN AND BEYOND

“ and as we walk into Old Town there’s a sense of anticipation that good times are ahead” Clockwise from top: a rare moment of action, Świebodzin; the bunker cycle tour begins; a little toy town, Łagów; Bunker King, the best place to eat for about 20 yards.

T

hat Tesco over there is a piece of history – go on, have guess when it was built.” It’s early in the morning, and rather than starting my day with a coffee I’m being harassed by a man who resembles a small, sweaty owl.

Ignoring my lack of interest The Owl continues undeterred.

“Two years before Christ,” he guffaws, breaking into snorts of laughter that provoke eye rolls from the staff.

I am in the dining room of the Hotel Graffit in Świebodzin, and this pest is clearly a regular. As waitresses glide around sweeping up breakfast plates I can sense sympathy for my plight.

There I am cornered, with nowhere to run, listening to a script that’s doubtlessly delivered to each stranger he meets. Or maybe not. It’s the height of summer, and judging by the number of guests taking breakfast strangers are not something that tend to trouble Świebodzin. It wasn’t meant to be that way...

Four years ago, at the end of 2010, the world’s tallest statue of Jesus was unveiled on the edge of this town. How? Who? Why? Conceived by Sylwester Zawadzki, a retired, Mercedes driving priest, the project was entirely funded by private donations totaling US$ 1.5 million and then realized by volunteers that, apparently, even included local prisoners out on day release. The fruit of five years of labor, this not-so-baby Jesus tops out at 33 meters, three meters more than his more publicized twin in Rio. Well, with everyone going bonkers for Brazil this summer, what better time to check out this Rio of the East?

Set halfway between Berlin and Poznań, Świebodzin’s Jesus was meant to attract hordes of pilgrims, put the town on the

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tourist map and signal high times for everyone in the area.

But aside from a few pokey cabins peddling Biblical literature and Catholic propaganda at the foot of the statue, there’s little evidence of the anticipated gold rush.

As we disembark at the train station, we are the only ones to alight at the platform. There is an unspoken feeling that we should have ‘done a Stalin’ – i.e. forget this place (and the Red Army largely did) and continue to Berlin. But our taxi driver is keen and eager, and mischievously takes us on a detour before depositing us at a hotel down the road from where we started.

Thirty minutes in and we’ve been cheated already.

Our spirits are not dampened. The hotel is fine, all plastic plants and views of The Big J., and as we walk into Old Town there’s a sense of anticipation that good times are ahead. As it turns out, arriving in the Rynek is like boarding the Marie Celeste. It’s already late Friday afternoon, but there’s not a soul on the streets. It feels surreal, abstract almost – has there been a nuclear warning? I’m reminded of one of those dream sequences where you find yourself walking through a ghost town – no faces, no sounds, and no sensations other than overbearing oddness. It’s a floaty, drug-like tranquility that feels mildly hallucinogenic.

Is it lazy journalism to call a town pleasant? But that’s what it is. A swan white town hall with a castle-like tower sits in the Rynek, but not like a statement, more like a whisper. Inside it, the local museum is thick with mildew aromas and niche little finds: Prussian uniforms, antique maps and cracked looking

pots. Today this will be pretty much all the culture we drink, for as we exit the museum we find a town that’s locking up. This is something that applies not just to the museums and institutions, but also the bars.

The longer we walk around Old Town, the more our choices diminish. What do people do for fun around here? From what I can gather, go to bed early. Yet just walking around is a pleasure in itself. Świebodzin is a pick’n’mix jumble of architectural styles: pastel colored art nouveau tenements, ruined medieval walls and arbitrary sprinkles of communist concrete. A cast iron statue of latter day Polish bard Czesław Niemen sits on a bench (he was a frequent visitor, and a benefit concert of his funded the municipal pool), and alongside him a zombie couple glugging back moonshine.

Resisting their appeals for our camera equipment we stop instead at an Italian restaurant in the Rynek. The pizza is hideous but the place is good fun. More importantly, there are people.

We befriend the staff and on their tip-off we go clubbing, Świebodzin-style, first to Retro (a barn in a park), and then to Impreza which is in someone’s house. Or actually, their garage.

Parallels to Rio’s nightlife draw a blank, but it’s a good night busting moves to wretched pop prats like Bieber & Styles.

It is the next morning that I meet The Owl (“he was a hoot,” remarks the photographer) and in a bid to escape him we trudge in the blazing morning sun up to Jesus. Standing in his shadow you expect him to be bigger. That is, so we learn, a common lament. While Rio’s Christ comes perched on a rock overlooking

a glittering city, Świebodzin’s stands in a cabbage patch with a Tesco next door. Having posed for obligatory pictures with our arms outstretched there’s an air of, “erm, so what next?”

What next indeed. For Saturday we’ve already arranged to head to Łagów, what we haven’t arranged is transport. Still smarting from yesterday’s cheating, bastard driver we instead negotiate with a Bond girl receptionist to chauffeur us for the day. She agrees, but hearts sink when she reveals the small print: her boyfriend will act as chaperone. As we swerve down corkscrewing roads the conversation is awkward and stilted – every time I look in the rearview mirror the hulk-like thug is giving me the evils. His dot-like eyes say one thing and one thing alone: “one false move and…”

Implied threats aside, the drive is a joy. The eccentricities of small town Poland come thick and fast: in one village we pass an ambulance being loaded up with someone’s furniture ahead of a big move. In Mostki there is a zoo with a billboard announcing the two star attractions – a zebra and a bunny rabbit. And there is a roadside brothel with an ingenious name: Alibi Driver’s Club.

We stop at neither, instead plugging on to our hotel for the night.

a

s it transpires it’s actually not in Łagów. Neither is it a hotel, rather a private 19th century farmhouse owned by elderly art dealer Jerzy Ludwikowski. We drop our bags, promise to be back soon and instead take the opportunity to explore the area – after all, we have things to see. These include Pętla Boryszyńska (bunkry.lubrza.pl), 10 kilometers away, a vast www.warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL ŚWIEBODZIN AND BEYOND

“ Back in the village, the gently curving streets are pure Brothers Grimm” Clockwise from top: the pastoral charm of Frankówka; Jerzy holds court amid his art collection; dusk falls over Łagów.

network of Nazi bunkers built pre-war. Having been dropped off by the Bond Girl and her henchman, we opt to take a cycling tour of the interlinking tunnels.

Our guide Marcin is a good sport, and rather than boring us rotten with stats and facts, gets us wooshing through the tunnels with intermittent stops: unconcerned by history, he instead calls stops to shine his torch on elaborate graffiti dating to the 80’s when this was a favored spot for illegal raves. Some of the art is stunning, other bits disturbing (a giant Nazi eagle). There’s plenty of stories, as well, though most involve death: “see that cross, that’s where a 16 year girl died in 1996. And over there, that’s where some bloke accidentally burned himself alive. 1992 if I remember correctly.” We too have some close scrapes. The bikes are strictly circus-issue, and the photographer and myself take it in turns to collide headlong into walls and other such hazards. We hit daylight panting, and as we wait for Bond Girl to pick us up order dinner from the Bunker King food truck which, as it happens, is marginally inferior to the franchise that inspired it.

Still buzzing from our subterranean escapades, we’re in no mood to return to the farm. Instead we head up to Łagów, a small hamlet planted between two lakes. Ringed by woodland and water, the focal point of the village is Joannitów Castle which was built in the 15th century by the Knights of St. John. Now a hotel (featuring a ‘Torture Room’ equipped with manacles and chains), it’s also open to the public, and climbing the 35 meter

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tower is an absolute must – views like this stay with you forever.

Edging back down the steps, we stop for refreshment in the hotel restaurant and amuse ourselves by reading a riveting menu that touts dishes like ‘exquisite fried pork with leavened kinds of noodles poured with courtly sauce’.

Back in the village, the gently curving streets are pure Brothers Grimm: arching medieval gateways and cross-timbered houses.

Thoughtfully, there is also a sausage grill built into the bonnet of a Polski Fiat, but we’re after other touristy pleasures and instead rent a paddle boat and breathlessly peddle amongst nonchalant swans. It has been a wonderful day, and we see in sunset with organic German beer on the edge of the lake. Aware that our contract with the Bond Girl has already expired, we cajole another local to drive us to our dwellings.

The following day I am woken by a hearty cock-a-doodle-do outside the window. I am well-rested, and in a good mood to explore the farmstead. Named Frankówka (frankowka.travel. pl) in memory of Franek, the owner’s dead dog, it’s a picture of bucolic charm – inside, antiques and artwork, outside, tangled greenery and fluttering butterflies. Nearby, a wooden village church stands in incongruous proximity to a pyramid hotel, and I’m once more reminded of the bonkers magic of backwater Poland. As I pay the zł. 80 fee for the stay, I’m suddenly torn about returning to Warsaw. Maybe skyscrapers and Starbucks can wait another day. Maybe, I ponder, I should stay another night. So I do.

LISTINGS RESTAURANTS 38 CAFES & WINE BARS 67 NIGHTLIFE 72 SHOPPING 80 FAMILY 86 HEALTH & BEAUTY 91 IN THE CITY 95

Just Opened!

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Cuda na Kiju have built on last year’s success by adding a cocktail bar to their name. Found in the glass block next to their multi-tap, Cuda’s twin sister features pre-bottled cocktails that incorporate fruit bought straight from the farmers market in Falenica. So what are you waiting for? (ul. Nowy Świat 6/12)

www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS A Four Letter Word Sometimes a risk makes you swear

m

y wife and I found ourselves on Chłodna one evening and decided to sit outside, taking in the vanilla sky. Natu seemed perfect for our ends: a busy terrace and a good spot for people watching and earwigging on tourists. The waitress v-lined towards us immediately so we ordered a burger and Prosecco for the wife, and chili con carne and draught Tucher for myself. The server was pleasant, and returned promptly with our drinks. After one sip I knew we’d made a good decision.

Then the food came. At first glance I was alarmed to find the guacamole that came with the chili was almost black from oxidation. Morbid curiosity compelled me to touch the food. The tortilla was hard not from toasting, but from being stale, while the half piece of corn-on-thecob was ice cold. My wife took a bite of her burger and frowned – it was well done, not rare as ordered. “It’s like kotlety mielone for f**k’s sake,” she growled. The place was packed and we both knew we didn’t have time to send things back since our babysitter had to leave at nine on the dot that night. So we sat there, glumly, questioning how it is a seemingly decent place could get it so very wrong.

One thing I learned from making this sorry escapade was to never trust a restaurant with a four letter name. There is only one: NOMA. The rest, by in large, could be described using four letter words and that’s about it. Depressingly, you know that places like this will cover their overheads through alcohol sales and passing tourist traffic. (KD) NATU Rest & Wine

Chłodna 2/18, tel. 506 511 146, open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00

w Top Tapas

Beautiful things come in small packages

arsaw has a serious problem: it likes Spanish food, but it can’t bloody make it. Think about it: how many Spanish restaurants have launched over the years?

How many have promised much but then failed to deliver? Offhand I can think of a dozen that opened then folded, but the true number might be higher. Things changed when Casa Pablo arrived a few years ago and all of a sudden we had a place that was, well, authentic – Spanish-owned, a Spanish chef, etc. It was great. In fact, it is great. Even so, ropey little tapas bars continued to open, undoing the good work that was happening at Pablo’s.

That was till now, and wouldn’t you know it, it’s the team behind Casa Pablo that have engineered the turnaround launching a little tapas bar to complement their restaurant. Actually, little is the wrong word. It’s narrow as a tightrope, but it’s long. Very long. But the size is such that it instantly engages. The design helps: scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But this is not some dark, heavy bolt hole, and the floor-to-ceiling windows lend light and modernity.

Enough of that though, the food. The gazpacho is first class, prepared onsite then served in a bottle. Full of refreshing summer zing, my only complaint is the serving’s so small. But at zł. 12, if you order another it’s still a good deal. Next, patatas bravas and beef cheek with parmentier.

The melty tenderness of the latter is magnificent, but it is the former that steals the show: perfectly fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce that’s luxurious in aftertaste. And we have dessert, ‘catalan cream’ served in a skillet. Like the rest of the meal, it is perfect. Did I say Warsaw can’t do Spanish food? It’s bloody well learnt. (AW)

Tapas Gastrobar

ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 324 5781, open 12:00-last guest

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In Shopping: Vintage

Reload your wardrobe this summer with a cult vintage look from the best finds in town.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

p. 80

Vintage denim at Safripsti

www.warsawinsider.pl

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Down on the Patio There’s always a thrill when entering a courtyard – a sense of secrecy and discretion and of infiltrating the unknown. What lies inside? Largely abandoned by residents, the courtyard at Kredytowa 9 has been reclaimed

by Patio, a place that announces itself in a riot of greenery and upcycled fixtures. During the day it’s a place of chatter and chill and calm contemplation: people tap quietly on their Airbook’s, some girls pick over a salad and whisper in giggles. But it’s not always like this – a pink bra hangs from a string of lights over the DJ decks.

“That was a party to remember,” smiles Maciej the manager. And parties they do well – a 7 a.m. finish isn’t all that rare. Yet there is more to Patio than excess alone. Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday nights see free film screenings courtesy of Kino Perła, and draw an intelligent crowd of coiffured fashionistas. Tonight is the turn of Happiness by Todd Solondz, and a hush descends as the film begins. Culture and cocktails, art and animalism – this is Warsaw, 2014. Isn’t it beautiful?

Patio Kredytow 9 ul. Kredytowa 9, facebook.com/PatioKredytowa9

www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS

Tasting Tamka

Y

ou could call Tamka 43 a pioneer. Opened before Atelier Amaro conquered the country, Tamka’s launch came at a time when Warsaw was making a fine dining transition. Remember what came before? For the benefit of those that don’t, upmarket dining meant ploughing through a glazed duck set at your table by a bow-tied skivvy while a weary old man played piano in the corner. Warsaw had modernized, but its restaurants hadn’t. Then came Tamka.

Originally captained by Robert Trzópek, there were those that presumed his departure from the kitchen might be a torpedo to the hull. But it hasn’t worked out that way, and the reason for that is Rafał Hreczaniuk – I’ll get back to him later. First, the restaurant. Facing the Chopin Museum, there’s a suspicion that this is a tourist restaurant serving tourist food (that damn glazed duck again). And indeed, when I arrive there’s a few sightseer sorts down on the terrace holding upside down maps.

Tamka though is more than a rest stop for out-of-towners. It’s a point clarified as we walk past the ground floor café and up to the dining part. The design is upscale but in a quiet, dignified manner, with the principal talking point being the view: there it is, right in front of you, the Ostrogski Palace set against cobalt summer sky. For date night, book the peacock’s perch, a table for two that juts out from the rest of the glass frontage.

This is, however, no time to comment on the interior. This is no time for small talk. On being handed the menu the conversation takes a serious turn. Decisions must be made: should we choose the tasting menu (zł. 180-250) or perhaps go a la carte?

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As it transpires it’s a question that’s taken out of our hands. It’s his day off, but Rafał Hreczaniuk is patrolling the restaurant.

Taking a seat he assesses our wants before firing off an order that encompasses personal recommendations from the tasting menu. We do not disagree.

As we wait, Rafał remains. His charm is easy and his look pure rock star – like he’d be a natural riffing on a guitar in a gritty Brooklyn bar. Talking about his past, he laughs as he recalls how he started off this chef lark as a pizza cook in Chełm. His story, though, is not of someone who got lucky and ended up bossing Tamka, but one of hard graft – from humble beginnings he’s worked his way up through fiercely competitive kitchens: two star La Fermata, one star L’Ecrivain and Chapter One, not to mention alongside Wojciech Amaro in Poznań’s Le Palais Du Jardin.

His talk is good, but is his food? The first arrival makes an immediate impression: a wild garlic panna cotta with just the right wobble and a sprinkle of peas that evoke a sense of goodness. There are, as well, new season carrots and a wafer thin crisp of bread. “I like my food to be simple but with strong flavors and a personal twist,” says Rafał, and while I wouldn’t call this dish simple, two out of three ain’t bad. In fact, it’s marvelous.

Next is zander, its skin nicely crisped and its meat soft as snow.

It’s accompanied by a horse radish powder and a precise swirl of umami sauce. I’ve all but cleared my plate by the time my colleague has finished photographing his, and for a while I contemplate stealing from him. Theft, in this case, is understandable.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

A closer look at Tamka’s tantalizing tasting menu

Things are going well, but they’re about to get better. Beef cheek is an obsession of Rafał’s that dates to his Dublin days, and what we’re served goes beyond mere accomplished.

Cooked sous-vide, the Irish beef is achingly tender but with that reassuringly meaty oomph, and the madeira sauce a natural companion. And yes, the girolles: deep gold in color and exquisite in taste. This is a course conducted in silence, words would just spoil it.

As the plates are whisked away there is an immense satisfaction that glows from the table, a sort of selfish sense of pleasure that blocks out the world. Dessert does not break the spell.

There are strawberries, plump and red, that have been baked for three minutes; a geranium sorbet that feels flowery and perfumed; and rhubarb granita that still makes me smile. Thinking about it, so does everything else. (AW) Tamka 43 ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open 12:00-22:00, tamka43.pl

Opposite page, clockwise from top: amuse bouche of salmon mousse with beetroot jelly; zander with grilled spring onion, radishes and umami sauce; wild garlic panna cotta with carrots and peas. This page, from left: beef cheek, beetroot, girolles, madeira sauce; roasted strawberries, rhubarb granita, geranium sorbet.

IN BRIEF People: a ground floor cafe next to a tourist spot is always likely to attract tourists. The restaurant upstairs attracts a higher caliber.

Place: an assured sense of discreet elegance – nothing flamboyant, but quietly modern, metropolitan and classy.

Price: tasting menus run from zł. 190-250 (zł. 380-500 with wine pairings), though set lunch deals make it highly accessible – zł.

49 for two dishes or zł. 59 for three.

Food: ‘author’s cuisine’ with chef Rafał Hreczaniuk firmly in favor of simple, seasonal ingredients with big tastes and a personalized twist.

Overall: whether you’re spending big or small, regrets don’t exist.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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restaurants Kosher Shop

KEY $ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 Best of Warsaw Award Winner 2013 New listings are in RED

AROUND PLAC GRZYBOWSKI CAFE PRÓŻNA (Próżna 12) The overdue renovation of the building might make for a loud and dusty afternoon coffee, but Próżna remains just about the cutest café for miles. Beautiful soups and an intensely artistic, almost Krakowian spirit.

FOTKA (Pl. Grzybowski 2) With none of the airs and graces of neighboring spots, Fotka’s genius lies in its simplicity. A fun, familiar atmosphere in this café, great cakes, some niche beers and a photographic theme.

KOSHER SHOP & FALAFEL STAND (Twarda 6) Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream.

MERCATO (Próżna 7) A restaurant / delicatessen hybrid with a casual after-work buzz and a heavy Italian slant. The atmosphere of orchestrated chaos lends a lively atmosphere that’s tough to trump.

PARDON TO, TU (Pl. Grzybowski 12/16) Bar, concert space, home of Ykos (the pub dog) and purveyors of our favorite bruschetta anywhere in Warsaw – Pardon To, Tu is the central nexus of the local area.

STREFA (Próżna 9) Don’t, whatever you do, wear white – they’ll never see you. A pristine design, upmarket crowd, beautiful cocktails and – above all – the cooking of Jarosław Walczyk make Strefa a standout.

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african american asian balkan & russian bakeries burgers cheap eats cooking schools food shops french german greek & turkish indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish latin middle eastern polish scandinavian seafood whole foods

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Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

african Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, open 10:00-23:00, www.cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $

Come and enjoy the first and most prestigious golf course in Poland (Top 3 in Eastern Europe) Green fee price 50 Euro/weekdays 75 Euro/weekend 25km from city center Pro Shop/Rental/Transportation

www.fwgcc.pl Telephone: 530 577 477

listings / restaurants La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, open Mon 13:00-24:00; Tue-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-23:00 Things we like: African Star beer and the traditional stews. Things we don’t like: the goat meat.

But that’s not a criticism of the cooking, rather an admission we don’t like goats in general – dead or alive. Those who don’t fancy experimenting with gizzards and heads make do with dishes like yam porridge or sweet and spicy coconut rice. It’s the very definition of casual, and something of a focal point for Warsaw’s African community. $$

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00 Upstairs it’s a burger joint, one of Warsaw’s best. Downstairs, a modern American restaurant overseen by Jan Piecuch – former chef of Signature. Offering a different menu to the lunch-on-the-run options of upstairs, the monthly card is serious in its intent (there’s even a 5-course tasting menu), with well-marbled 21-day Hereford steak, dainty crab cakes and creative soups. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, open 12:00-24:00, www. champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, www.hardrockcafe. pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360, open Mon & Tue 11:00-23:00; Wed-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.tgifridays.pl/ warszawa The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, and even the burgers can’t compare to Warsaw’s armada of burgeries. And the interiors are just as you’d remember: crass, vulgar and stuck in the 90s. Why do people bother? $$

asian Basil & Lime (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, open 11:00-23:00, www.basil-lime.pl Reports

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have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo.

Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? $$ Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel.

22 827 9707, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00, www. cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.chinagarden.pl Bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws.

Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for the brave. Allegedly the first Jiangsu restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes here are indeed unique. The China Garden isn’t the Imperial Palace, but the décor of straightbacked chairs and densely constructed wood tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging about here; serious eating is afoot! On the whole the dishes are delicate and delicious, and there are more cautious choices.

Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 447 2424, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-22:00 A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ InAzia (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Hotel), tel. 22 450 6705, open Mon-Sat 17:00-23:00; Sun 12:30-16:30, www.restauracja-inazia.pl “Blindingly good,” declares one reader, and indeed the pho soups and noodle dishes are of a high standard. Vietnamese cuisine doesn’t have the best reputation in this country, but Hanoi redresses the balance. The

listings / restaurants exhaustive menu also involves Thai dishes, which while unusually heavy represent value for money. $$$ Natara Old Town (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501, open 11:00-23:00, www.natara.pl Set inside the Old Town walls, the setting is magical – from the outside. Inside, it’s all dowdy brown and plastic plants. Service, if you can call it that, teases patience to the max, but the food is fantastic. Everything we’ve tried on the menu goes right, not least the fiery red curry duck.

Highly recommended. $$ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, open 12:00-24:00, www.papaya.waw.pl A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya has a varied menu that uses influences from all over Asia, though particularly Thailand. But the star attraction is Preecha Wongsomboon, a Thai chef who fuses cookery with cabaret from behind a teppanyaki grill – his skills draw gasps. But between the honking horns and nifty knife work it becomes clear this is no novelty show: the food is top notch. $$

Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.suparomthaifood.pl Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II al. Wilanowska 309, tel. 22 853 3087, open 10:00-21:00, www.suparomthaifood. pl Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming.

Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, open 12:00-23:00, www.thaithai.pl Sanad Changpuen, a man widely credited with popularizing Thai food in Poland, returns to Warsaw with predictable results: the food is a hit. And what a space this acclaimed chef has been blessed with: gold vaulted ceilings lend a muted glow to a largely black-on-black space; from the walls, serene looking Buddha’s peer on diners down below. At once, the soothing interiors ease guests into a state of inner peace while Sanad does the rest. $$

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl The center pin is a semi-circular bar, above which lamps hang from a ceiling made out of old Coca-Cola crates. There’s palm fronds, mismatching seats, cheerful colors, exposed pipes and industrial chains. Sacks of Haruka rice adorn one end, and on the other there’s floor-to-ceiling windows. It feels right, as does the food – a confident combination of sushi and Thai. We ordered fried beef, and were dealt a generous portion full of pleasing, punchy tastes, sticky rice and a deep, aromatic sauce. Just as good is the green tea ice cream, both cleansing and delicious. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, open 12:00-22:30. shabu-shabu.pl Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $$

Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307, open Mon-Fri 9:30-21:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:30 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.whythai.pl A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the notes one expects. $$ Yummy (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 797 830 639, open 10:00-21:00, www.restauracjayummy.pl A naff name and empty interiors are enough to deter some people – don’t join their ranks.

Dishes here are uncomplicated but never cease to impress in that classic comfort food way. We swear by the orange chicken.

Looking modern, minimal and a cut above the other budget Asian eateries, it’s a decent choice for an informal meal. $

Insider Pick

DOM POLSKI

You can feel Dom Polski’s institution status the moment you enter – the sophistication, the elegance, it’s present in everything you see and touch. Though is there a better time to visit than on a moonlit night?

Secluded and still, the sense of serenity afforded by the garden is one of Warsaw’s best summer secrets. ul. Francuska 11, restauracjadompolski.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants balkan & russian Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.banjaluka.pl Numerous meaty dishes from Serbia and Croatia are served inside Banja Luka, a Warsaw stalwart who’ve moved with the times and... moved. The new, central location is as pleasing as the last, with lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics. $$ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, open Mon 11:30-20:00; Tue & Wed 11:30-21:00; Thu & Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures. $

burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; 13:00-21:00, www.barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entrance on the burger circuit, the quality just doesn’t seem there anymore. The quantity is though, with BB entertaining eating competitions and serving Warsaw’s biggest burgers. $ Bobby Burger (C4) ul. E. Plater 47, tel. 785 833 603, pen 12:00-22:00, bobbyburger.pl Perplexingly popular with hipsters who wouldn’t know a good burger if their skinny jeans depended on it. Now sporting a new location (the old one on Żurawia also continues, alas), this bottom feeder continues to prove popularity isn’t always a measure of quality. $ Brooklyn Burgers & Wings (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 270 2144, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 People come here in droves, lured by a menu finessed by American / Polish chef Alan Bohinski. Not here meat and ketchup explosive devices that detonate all over your trousers, instead find neatly formed burgers made with prime Polish beef that’s ground onsite. And while you won’t need them, it’s a nice touch that they come served with disposable gloves.

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Delicious homemade sauces, ribs and wings add to the draw. $

Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Wed 7:30-23:00; Thu-Fri 7:30-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-20:00, www. burgerkitchen.plFormerly Burger Kitchen, the recent name change indicates a conscious shift towards other cuisines. Not that they’ve forgotten what it was that made them famous in the first place. Poland’s No. 1 burgers are still here, and widely acclaimed for their indestructible architecture, brioche buns, homemade ketchup and fine meat. $

Groole (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.groole.pl You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $ Hummus Bar (B4) ul. Żelazna 64, tel. 723 058 223, open 11:00-19:00, www.hummsubar.pl Much like the lime green interior, the concept is simple and straightforward: hummus, falafel and fresh pitta breads served to a busy lunchtime crowd. There’s nothing more to say other than it’s utterly delicious. $

Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Sat 12:0020:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.warburger.pl Forget Year of the Dragon, 2012 was Year of the Burger – or more specifically, Year of the WarBurger. Edging the competition (at least till Burger Kitchen came along), this diminutive little cabin wins eulogies across the board for base-level prices, super friendly service and pimped up burgers that use gourmet ingredients. $

Justyna’s Secret Recipes (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 138, open Mon-Fri 7:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00. www. jsecretrecipes.com We’re told Justyna was inspired by the Pret-a-Manger chain.

Whatever the case, you just can’t fault her sandwiches which are fixed using proper imported bacon, organic sundries, and the freshest of bread. The delivery service is highly recommended for desk-bound officebots. $

Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735, open MonSat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 The use of artisan bread and burgers based primarily on rib-eye make this newcomer a standout.

We’re promised more additions to the menu, including ribs. Watch this space.

La Farine Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 793 929 210, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, lafarine.pl Traditional-style Lebanese flat breads cooked to perfection inside a narrow little space which many passers-by confuse with a kebab shop – whatever you do, don’t do that yourself. Instead, think of it as Lebanese style pizza, only better. $

cheap eats Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580, open daily 11:00-21:00. ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel.

22 898 3001, open daily 11:00-22:00 So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Friterie (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 794 158 813, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00 Served in paper cones, the Belgian-style chips come with that inimitable double-fried crunch and a range of sauces that merit experimentation: try the ‘Andaluse’. $

Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, open Sun-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:0023:00, www.manekin.pl Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national phenomenon – at times, queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet and savory form (there’s even a spaghetti version…), and most agree they’re worth the ridiculous waiting times - waits in excess of 20 minutes (and considerably more) are the norm. $ Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun

listings / restaurants 12:00-22:00, www.meatlove.pl Not ones to stagnate, Meat Love have expanded in size, meaning there’s now plenty of room to sample their artisan sandwiches – the roast beef will make your knees tremble. But with this weather, most head to the shaded pavement terrace. Do so as well, and with a craft beer for company. $ Mr Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, open MonSat 11:00-10:00; Sun 12:00-8:00, www.mrpancake.pl You’re just going to love their pancakes, with their fun, wacky look and creative toppings (M&Ms, funny faces traced with icing sugar, and lots of chocolatey stuff).

They’re the sort of pancakes you’d get if Bart Simpson got stoned and decided to make some food – brilliant. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, open 11:00-20:00, www.chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the

best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia.

And that’s a good thing! $

is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-19:00 Imported German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh buns to go with them.

The currywurst is just like the one you had at Berlin Hauptbahnhof. $

ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732, www. stalowa52.pl, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:30-22:00 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings. It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic – our vol au vent starter was dry and devoid of taste, while the chocolate ‘cream’ dessert was a runny, ugly looking disappointment. But there is potential: the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a wellexecuted orange and caramel sauce. $$

cuban El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994. Open Mon-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-1:00; Sun 12:30-22:30 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot

french

Bistro Pigalle (D5) ul. Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska), tel. 881

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listings / restaurants 000 182 They say it takes six months for a restaurant to find its feet: Pigalle needs that six months for our first visit was a disaster – smeared, smudged fittings and steak so undercooked you could hear it moo. But we’re already hearing of improvements and fixes being made so there’s hope yet for this newborn restaurant. $$

Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, www.adlerrestauracja.pl Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, open 10:00-last guest, www.larc.pl A place of considered elegance, subtle decorations and monochrome colors. They’re especially noted for their obsessive attitude towards seafood (pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing), inventive mains and desserts that are heaven. $$

greek & turkish

Le Bistro Rozbrat ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 22 881 7808, open 12:00-24:00.

The signs suggest that Powiśle is set to mature in 2014, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food. The concise menu has token nods to Spanish cuisine, as well as a steak bavette that’s being raved about on the blogs. $$ Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria), tel. 22 657 8332, open Mon-Sat12:00-24:00, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light.

The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. Always leave room for dessert, especially the ‘pear trio’ – delicate and refreshing and with the right hint of sweet. $$

german Adler (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, open

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Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, open 12:00-last guest, www.paros-restauracja.pl Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look.

Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages.

The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milefi dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 On the design front it’s almost a straight plagiary of Charlotte: white brickwork, blackboard and communal table.

So the surprise here is the food – Turkish.

And not just any Turkish, but brilliant Turkish!

It’s nothing fancy, but there’s a real honest quality to the moussaka and lamb and beef in tomato sauce. And the desserts are a real spoiler as well. $

indian Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, open 11:00-23:00, www.bombajmasala.pl A position on the doorstep of Warsaw’s financial quarter keeps business brisk, but while Bombaj Masala thrives on its reputation as an upmarket Indian restaurant, the food lets it down. We’ve repeatedly been disappointed by the food, which is unanimously decried as

both over-priced and over-rated. $$

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, open Sun-Thu 11:0023:00; Fri&Sat 11:00-24:00, www.buddha.info.pl The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a finelooking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is a favorite of ours though the real plus here is the consistency: it’s always a solid bet. $ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 11:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl Not only does Chmielarnia house some of the world’s best beers (see Nightlife), but also – as the shrine by the door may suggest – a very good restaurant. Sure, you’re eating in a dark and loud beer cellar (to us that’s a bonus), but the Nepalese chef Ram knows what he’s doing. And aside from Indian and Nepalese staples, there’s a menu tailor-made for the beer swiggers. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al.

Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open daily 11:0022:00, curryhouse.com.pl A primitive design (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows) and far-flung location have not hindered Curry House one bit. It’s a legend, not least for their vindaloo – a macho dish that provokes spontaneous combustion. Be warned: no beer. $ Ganesh (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 416 4162, open 12:00-24:00, www.ganesh.pl Vast and usually empty the new Ganesh lacks the intimacy of the previous outpost on Wilcza and already looks a little scuffed and tired.

While other Indian giants such as Rain and Tandoor have reinvented and rebooted themselves Ganesh plug away with an old menu of standard (and occasionally sub-standard) dishes. With excellence assured in Tandoor round the corner, you wouldn’t bet on Ganesh filling their million vacant tables. $$ Madras Al. Solidarnosci 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open 11:00-22:00 A swirl of rumors surrounded Madras this summer, buoyed

listings / restaurants in part by an ad announcing the sale of the place. Rest assured it remains. Rated as the Insider’s No. 1 source for curry, while it looks cheap, cramped and claustrophobic Madras continues to earn its spurs for marvelous food. There are softer options available, but for a proper near death experience order the vindaloo: even your hair will feel like it’s on fire. As the burning euphoria subsides, you’re left basking in that blissful glow all hotheads will know. $ Mr India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 Opened by the creators of Curry House, Mr India touts the same menu but with an interior that’s a substantial upgrade to its older sibling. As with the original, the spicy dishes could floor an elephant. It’s become a lifeline for Brits shipwrecked in Ursynów. $$ Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl

Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look, while the shaded courtyard garden is one of the best in town. The real credit for Rain’s resuscitation though, belongs to the kitchen: our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in any Indian restaurant. And the mains continue the form with a magnificent lamb tikka masala. The tiffin lunch deals are outstanding as well. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22 825 2375, open 12:00-22:30, www.tandoor. com.pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen not just the interior modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup before moving onto the chicken tamarind or the chicken sholay kebab. Coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table. Traditionalists will also approve: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable

butter chicken tikka masala. After a couple of years in the doldrums, Tandoor is back with a bang. $$

international & fusion A nuż widelec ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 507 367 520, open 12:00-22:00 Choose from a magical multi-layered terrace of white-painted timber, cutesy flowerpots and colorful cushions or an interior decked out with wooden tables, patches of brickwork and potted herbs. Then there’s the blackboard menu, adjusted to the whims of the chef and the vagaries of the weather. There’s nothing smarty pants about it, rather it’s cooking you understand and appreciate – we loved it all, from the ginger and carrot soup to the main of grilled pork. $$ Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616

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listings / restaurants 3223, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00- 18:00, www.boathouse.pl The name gives it away, doesn’t it? Situated in what is indeed a former boathouse, this venerable institution comes into its element each summer when the great and the good of Warsaw go riverside to dine at this restaurant.

Set in three acres of manicured parkland, there’s something immensely satisfying about watching the sunset with a glass of wine in hand. Kids are welcome – as the bouncy castle indicates – but the layout of this place means that peace is assured. And what of the food? Consistent, Mediterranean standards that have stood the test of time. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl A posh looking bistro whose credentials are supported by crisp shirted staff, gleaming surfaces and zinc mirrors. The Fine de Claire oysters on a bed of fennel are outstanding, but what catches the attention of the ex-pats is the English influence of an owner who once

managed The Grill at London’s Dorchester Hotel. The Friday fish & chips win emphatic approval. The Sunday roast lacks gravy and consistency, and you may find yourself asking for extra red wine sauce to moisten the Yorkshire Pudding – but it’s worth the chance; when everything goes right it’s utterly victorious. $$$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www. butcheryandwine.pl Has it really been that long? Opened to wide acclaim in 2011, Butchery & Wine stirred Warsaw’s appetite for quality red meat. Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach and the wine list suited to the meat fest in front. Many hail this as Poland’s best steak, and you can definitely see where they’re coming from. $$ Central Park ul. Belwederska 13, tel. 22 400 8048, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00 This is what happens when you faff about

Bakeries Przystanek Piekarnia ul. Koszykowa 58, przystanekpiekarnia. pl The atmosphere is brisk and buzzing inside what’s emerged as the breadbasket of choice for Warsaw’s fashionistas.

An interesting design authored by architect Maciej Kurkowski makes use of dozens of wooden slats that seemingly cascade from the ceiling, but make no mistake, the talking point is the bread and luxurious pastries.

Charlotte Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl.

Zbawiciela), tel. 662 204 555, bistrocharlotte.com The battle lines are drawn: on one side it’s the slobs of Plan B, and on the other the snobs of Charlotte. While the fancy crowd (all jangling Porsche keys and idiotic selfies) isn’t to everyone’s liking, Charlotte’s baked goods are commonly hailed as things of rare beauty.

Monique Bakery & Wine ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 629 3974,

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moniquebakery.pl Reports have been hit and miss about Monique, with some citing spotty service and heavy handed prices. Even so, their baguettes and croissants always hit the mark.

SAM ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 606 836 836, www.sam.info.pl A central, communal table is flanked by smaller satellite tables for parties of two to four while perky seasonal blooms and potted herbs lend a spark of freshness. Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a breadmaking course chaired by Raymond Blanc.

Saint Honore ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 20/22, tel. 508 143 987, ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), www.saint-honore. pl A top bakery with fresh baguette sandwiches, and as authentically French cakes, croissants and pastries.

for months – much hyped, Central Park just hasn’t met expectations. Fine as a neighborhood hangout, this is an eatery that buys into the trend of natural, quality produce. But we’ve seen it all before, and it does little to stand apart from the crowd. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct: five course set lunch menus from zł. 50, served between 11:00 and 16:00. Modern designer dining rarely gets better. $$$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, open 12:00-24:00, www.derelefant.com A Titanic-sized restaurant with a disorganized menu that appears to have been devised by throwing darts at a cookbook: Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc.

But if the menu is blurry, the cooking isn’t: it’s average/acceptable to very good. The interiors are a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles, and frequently pack out to the rafters with families and other unwieldy groups. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745, open Mon-Fri for Breakfast 6:30-10:00; Sat 6:30-11:00, 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 12:0016:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00, dinner 18:00-23:00 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$ Dwie Trzecie ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 605 589 588, open 12:00-24:00 They’ve taken on a reputedly cursed location, but chef Marcin Jabłoński looks like a man capable of breaking the hex.

Think author’s cuisine with a Mediterranean twist and plenty of surprises along the way – edible flowers, nitrogen blasts, etc.

The hangar steak scores big points, while the

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Patera ul. Świętokrzyska 36, patera.com.pl, tel. 535 33 123

listings / restaurants mid-market prices belie the high standard.

Pleasingly, you get the idea Dwie Trzecie will work in all seasons: raw enough for summer, yet also intimate for winter. $$ Haka (D4) ul. Bracka 20, open 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-last guest. Yes it’s a bar, but there is a talent in the kitchen that elevates it beyond just normal bar standard. That’s Shane, a New Zealander whose put a London past to good use by coming up with an evolving menu that’s seen such items such as kangaroo steak, five spiced pork belly and modern interpretations of British classics: shepherd’s pie, for instance. $$ Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, hoza.warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, open Mon-Sun 12:00-15:00, 17:00-23:00, www. facebook.com/dwichlab Referred to by some as the “poor man’s Atelier Amaro”, this haunt has a high communal seating plan and a hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the

food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks – sometimes faster. The chef is known for his trial-anderror attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut.

Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine. Go there. $$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Casual Design” Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Wed 7:30-23:00; Thu-Fri 7:30-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-20:00, www. burgerkitchen.pl What was once Burger Kitchen has had a name change to reflect a new direction that encompasses Italian polpo and handmade ravioli, an aged meat selection, not to mention a few Middle Eastern and Asian influences inspired by chef Tomek Woźniak’s global travels. Outstanding quality, a casual ambience and an avowed commitment to natural ingredients make it a must. And, FYI, Warsaw’s best burgers will remain on the menu. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel.

22 531 6070, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 7:00-11:00,12:0023:00 Truly, one of the standout dining rooms of Poland. Many have commented on the Michelin quality of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s restaurant, and you may consider the lack of a star one of the puzzles of the modern

world. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and is built for superlatives: the slow-roasted rack of Welsh lamb was one of our highlights of 2013. Find Oszczyk ably supported by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, and wonderfully charismatic staff. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Chef” L’enfant Terrible ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, open Mon-Fri 12:30-15:30, 18:30-22:00; Sat 13:00-15:30, 18:30-22:30, eterrible.pl The menu doesn’t faff about – it is strong, silent and absent of adjectives: dishes are surmised using one word, in some cases two, imparting an element of suspense to the ordering process. The five course tasting menu (zł. 170) is the work of chef Michał Bryś, and on our visit was an immense triumph the highlight of which was a course composed entirely of tomatoes. $$$ Muu Muu (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 465 1553, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.muumuu.pl The place is sparky, fun and engaging: small in size, décor comprises of soft colors and light woods, not to mention a bar adorned with blackboard slogans such as ‘Eat Meat’ and ‘Love Bacon’. The heart of their act is meat, and steak appears in a variety of its forms: there’s T-Bone, bison, wagyu, etc. If you’re a vegetarian (or for that matter, a cow), run.

New it might be, but there’s a quiet assurance about Muu Muu: the proprietor knows he’s on a good thing, and he very well is. $$

“Casual fine dining in the heart of Warsaw” ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita.pl For reservations: rezerwacja@nolita.pl Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00

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listings / restaurants Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, www.momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket.

A new concept for Warsaw, it’s been a case of so far so good for Momu. $

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel.

22 292 0424, open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00, www.nolita. pl A swank center restaurant anchored on the skills of Jacek Grochowina – a young talent who honed his skills at the London Ritz.

Looking chic and high end, advance bookings are recommended if you wish to enjoy this top-class experience. Some of the taste and sensations are utterly unexpected, with the Insider left speechless after enjoying the tuna tartar (zł.49) and aged beef fillet (zł. 97).

Privately, many have been left bewildered by the lack of Michelin star. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Fine Dining” Norma (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 828 0130, open 12:00-23:00, www.restauracjanorma.pl Diners step in to find neutral, natural colors offset by Walton Ford paintings depicting wild, tethered animals, and warm lighting provided by way of bare bulbs wrapped around the rafters. But what of the menu? That’s been conceived by chef Kuba Korczak, a familiar name to slow food enthusiasts. His food is an inventive presentation of natural, local produce, and includes subtle influences from both Italy and Asia. The kaszanka is deep and rich but the biggest success is the cod with apple puree: rolling in strong, unique flavors it’s completely astonishing. $$

Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, open 12:00-23:00, restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The

menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents come paired with a wine list selected by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734 or 22 328 8730, open Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 17:30-23:00, The hotel has roped in celebrity chef, Karol Okrasa, to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless.

In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Po Prostu Zachęta (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.poprostuzacheta. pl Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean.

Summer Menu

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, open daily 12:00-22:00, www. qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$ Rozbrat 20 (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295, open Mon-Fri 7:30-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.rozbrat20.pl Everything a restaurant should be – modern, but not too excessive, as well as traditional at the same time. Elegance emanates from everything and class glints off the silver champagne bowl and tasteful crockery. The menu is a contemporary, international affair, much like the crowd who appreciates it. $$

Bistro Piękna ul. Piękna 20 00-549 Warszawa Tel. +48 22 627 41 51 piekna@jazzone.pl, www.jazzone.pl

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listings / restaurants inevitable, and speak volumes for the innovation and talents of chef Andrea Camastra. $$$ Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel.

22 584 8771, www.saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’.

We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$

Senses ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, open Mon-Fri 12:00-14:30, 17:30-22:00; Sat 17:30-22:00 (closed from Aug 3-18), www.sensesrestaurant.pl The entrance alone is a thing of fancy and accessed through a long open-air corridor, one side flanked by the office block, the other by bullet grazed brickwork. Flickering flames dance on either side, the tall walls disappearing into the night sky above. Recommended is the six course tasting menu (zł. 230), which on our visit included eel, smoked at the table, duck with onion chutney and pepper mousse and swordfish served amid billowing ‘sea essence’. Comparisons to Atelier Amaro are

Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, open 12:00-23:00, www.signaturerestaurant.pl ‘Kilian who?’ people asked when Wojciech Kilian was installed as head chef. But this young talent has had the last laugh: set to be Poland’s next big chef, his cooking is extraordinary and presents true fine dining at bargain prices. Kilian’s cause is complimented by a beautiful design described by one reader as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’.

Think: friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. You feel a millionaire just being here. $$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Restaurant Design”

Skandal (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. 22 350 0444, open Mon-Fri 7:30-24:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00, www.skandalbistrobar.pl Skandal’s look is light and clear headed with the ground floor statement piece being a collection of cool hanging lights all bunched together. Beautiful. There’s only six or so mains to choose from, but they’re a triumph: the sous-vide duck was a dish of real merit and worth well

in excess of the zł. 39 price. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. www.solec.waw.pl With all the hipsters mincing about it sure doesn’t look like a restaurant: diners line-up at the counter to order, before sitting down in a spontaneous looking interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games.

Chef Aleksander Baron is an absolute star, and his daily changing menu (hourly changing, even), presents soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients.

His eye for good meat is undisputed, making it the best alternate dining experience you’ll see for a while. $$ Soul Kitchen (D6) ul. Noakowskiego 16, tel. 519 020 888, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 Soul Kitchen were one of the first in Warsaw to make a song and dance about embracing concepts of ‘fresh’ and ‘natural’, and as such the menu is tampered with regularly to ensure nothing but the best. Our main of saddle of deer was beautifully cooked, and a miracle of freshness that lingers long on the palette. Only the dessert surpasses it: the best strawberries we’ve tried, be it in Poland or abroad. Closed for the holidays in August. $$ Sowa & Przyjaciele (G8) ul. Gagarina 2, tel. 795 505 152, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00,

Le Cedre 84

Le Cedre 61

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99 lecedre84@lecedre.pl

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66 lecedre@lecedre.pl

Taste the Exotic

www.lecedre.pl

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listings / restaurants www.sowaiprzyjaciele.pl Rocked by its involvement in a government bugging scandal, Robert Sowa has moved fast to reassure customers that all is well in his restaurant. And we can as well. Looking the part with its soft colors and warm lighting, positives are underlined by a sommelier with a sixth sense and a barnstorming menu that merits attention. Sowa is one of the biggest names in Polish cooking, and you may fear he spends more time on TV than he does on his kitchen: we’re happy to report on all of our visits we’ve seen him emerge from the background, sharing backslaps and bear hugs with his regular clientele. $$$

daily 11:30-22:30, www.taste.pl To leave a restaurant fortified is to be expected; to leave delighted is the mark of quality.

With a clever L-shaped interior, a natural terrace and a gleaming white ceramic kitchen it looks good, but it’s the food that earns the plaudits. Dominik Moskalenko, the executive chef who cut his teeth on Amber Room has been a central part of this creation from the beginning and the fruits of his labor are mouth-watering. Fish sit prominently on his menu and account for an astonishing 60% of sales. And rightly so: they’re phenomenal. $$

U Chłopaków (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 115 9710, open 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00 Chłodna’s renaissance continues. Formerly a decrepit grocery store of the same name, Chłopaków is all exposed brick, sprigs of greenery and overhanging lamps. It’s a casual stop, but the cooking is not a throwaway – the menu is heavily slanted towards Eastern European, and has winning pierogi and wonderfully thick goulash.

Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, open Mon-

Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, open daily 13:00-22:00 www.stoldzielnia.pl A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with oddshaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$ Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00, www. restauracjastrefa.pl Just what were they thinking ignoring the form book like that?

No communal tables, no pipes and no rough-hewn bricks. Instead, there’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service.

What a refreshing change. The chef favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. Even the cocktails are a thing of brilliance. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open MonSun 10:00-23:00, www.tamka.43.pl There is an inspiration here which causes guests to linger over their meal, explore it and wonder at it. Food isn’t the background; it is the centerpiece. While Robert Trzópek has left the kitchen, he’s been ably replaced by Rafał Hreczaniuk – his menu pitches modern techniques against traditional, primarily root ingredients. It’s pretty wonderful, though the prices are ambitious. $$$ Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 400 1122, open

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listings / restaurants Fri 12:00 -22:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:00, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl There’s a real elegance to Villa Foksal, an upscale restaurant whose floor plan and garden have made them a favorite for corporate bashes and brand launches. The Vichyssoise with truffles is a prelude to mains like filet mignon in red wine sauce. $$$ Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285, open Mon 9:30-20:00; Tue-Thu 9:30-22:00; Fri 9:3023:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs.

And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Pairing international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $ Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 2500, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera.pl Everyone enjoys the food, and Jakub Adamczyk’s seasonally adjusted menu is indeed a thing of greatness: the beef tenderloin is a must, while the rhubarb parfait is a dessert of distinction. The prices reflect the quality of the kitchen, but certainly not that of the wait staff – a year after opening, and Winosfera still haven’t ironed out issues

such as front-of-house staff who greet guests with an ‘Uh’. $$$ Wootwórnia ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 696 259, open 10:00-22:00, www.wootwornia.pl.

Accessed round a back garden, Wootwórnia feels like a private little secret – you get the sensation not of visiting a restaurant, but of visiting a friend. The dominant element is the counter, from which co-owner Agnes Woo showcases her homemade preserves and own-baked cakes. Sourcing ingredients from small-scale local farms, here is a menu designed to nourish the soul. And it does just that. The tomato soup, enriched with hint of orange, aniseed and cinnamon isn’t soup of the day, it’s our soup of the year.

Genuine ‘food from the heart’. $$

italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, open 12:00-22:00 A dark and dimmed space – fashionably sparse – with white wall tiles and eclectic wallpaper climbing to the exposed pipes above. The menu is a simple laminated affair with eleven ‘pizza rosse’ and eight ‘pizza biance’, as well as a scattering of other Italian dishes. Cooked up by Lino and Fabio, the result is Warsaw’s most extraordinary pizzas: yep, the place is even endorsed by the city’s notoriously picky Italian community. $

Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$ Carpaccio (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 692 4726, open daily 12:00-last guest The Italian influence looms heavy here: the Italian owner patrols the restaurant floor, while Carmelo, a Sicilian, ensures nothing but excellence exits the wood-fired pizza oven. The quality of the hams is undisputed, as a try of the Parma ham bruschetta immediately proves. $$ Chianti (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 828 0222, www.kregliccy.pl, open 12:00-23:00 Contemporary, pared down interiors and a menu devised and mastered by chef Samuele Mariani have seen Chianti return to its best. Making use of local produce and imported ingredients, this modern interpretation of Italian cuisine is championed by numerous Italian expats. You can’t say fairer than that. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www.delizia.com.pl

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Cesarski Palace has thrived in Warsaw for 18 years – from the outset we were the first to offer authentic Chinese dishes, including our signature Peking Duck which comes baked in a custom-made oven and served with pancakes, cucumbers, por and a special sauce.

Expect personalized service and special attention from the chef inside a restaurant sensitive to Feng Shui requirements. There’s nothing comparable to our perfect tastes!

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listings / restaurants The reasons for Delizia’s success are twofold: Luca and Lorenzo. Luca’s the front man, a charismatic chap and natural showman. In his hands, you’ll feel like a star. Then there’s Lorenzo, the chef out the back. Between the pair of them they’ve turned this tiny little venue into Warsaw’s most convincing Italian enterprise. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, tasteful interiors and brilliant food: what more do you need? How about a recommendation from Michelin… $$

Mamma Marietta (C9) ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071, open 12:00-22:00, www.mammamarietta.com A scattering of tables make reservations recommended in Mamma Marietta, an informal looking restaurant with lugubrious interiors and solemn service. But the food, created by head chef Andrea, has an authenticity that’s rare in a city whose enthusiasm for Italian food isn’t always reflected by quality. The tomato soup starter, is deliciously thick and almost worth the trip itself. $$

Enoteka ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00, www.enotekapolska.pl The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$

Mezzo Italian Steakhouse ul. Sienkiewicza 5 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 756 3343, open daily 12:00-22:00 Tucked at the tip of Konstancin’s park, Mezzo’s wood-burning brick pizza oven constructed in the garden gets all the thumbs up. Also novel to the community is a chance to enjoy top-notch beef – using filet from Poland and T-bones from Irish Hereford cattle, Mezzo’s newly designed kitchen uses a lava grill to ensure excellence each time. $$

La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86, tel. 22 654 3277, open daily 11:00-23:00 On the right day you’ll find the ex-pat proprietors of Warsaw’s more refined Italian eateries using this for their pizza fix. It might not look like much, but its reputation speaks for itself. $

Nonna Rita (C1) ul. Freta 41/43, tel. 884 903 488, open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest, nonnarita.pl Traditional Roman carbonara, pizza cooked in a stone oven and authentic produce are a couple of boxes that Rita has ticked. Matched with a scenic New Town location and you have a spot that invariably woos the summer tourist crowds. $$

La Tomatina (D5) ul. Krucza 47A, tel. 22 625 1047, open Sun-Thu 10:30-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:30-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00 Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from good pizzas served in modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. Our spicy tiger prawn spaghetti was also okay, even if the presentation looked like a student had cooked it. $ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-20:00 When Michelin starred chef Wojciech Amaro pops in with his family you know something is going right. Here the statement piece is a Stefano Ferrara Napoli oven, used to maximum effect to create pizzas which have come to be considered amongst Warsaw’s best. Import ingredients like Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and Caputo flour add to the authenticity, and there’s a medley of other ‘staples from Naples’. $

A modern, urban cocktail bar, which in addition to the full range of spirits and exotic composition drinks and cocktails will delight with its sophisticated sushi and delicious Thai cuisine.

An attractive location in the center, right by Rondo ONZ, makes us an easy platform for lunch meetings, business dinners and evening visits.

Our casual atmosphere, industrial design and professional, friendly service guarantees a great time. ul. Świętokrzyska 36 patera.com.pl tel. 535 333 123

Nonsolo Pizza ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.nonsolo.pl Basic but modern looking: can be described as ‘cut-price cosmopolitan’. The kitchen takes Stage Center, and a stage it is – amateur theatrics are sometimes part of the bill. A staggering choice of pizzas await (we counted 48, but might have got it wrong), and while they’re pretty decent it’s a while since Nonsolo was talked about as being Warsaw’s best pie. $ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306, open 12:00-23:00 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants open 12:00-last guest, www.sanlorenzo. pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price. It’s in here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$ Superiore (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. 506 404 059, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00, www.superiorewinebar.pl A hybrid wine shop, deli and restaurant, with an owner who prefers to think about the enjoyment of your dining experience rather than his cash till. The veal pasta is the bestselling dish here for very good reason. $$ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 6:30-11:00 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and

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cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$ Trattoria da Antonio (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 625 5417, open 11:00-1:00, www.trattoriadaantonio.pl At times you suspect you’ve walked into the 90s, what with the tacky embellishments that appear at each turn – a Vespa, some stone lions, a water well. But this is no bad thing: at a time when restaurants are doing their best to look stripped down and functional, cheerful Antonio feels jaunty and fun. And the food, created by Sicilian-born Antonio Centurrino, has several redeeming qualities: the penne arrabiata is delicious in its simplicity, though for a piece of heaven try the gnocchi tartufati. $$ Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 575 457 & ul.

Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, open daily 12:00-22:00 & ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 465 1836, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.trattoriarucola. pl Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola

have expanded to cover the West side to cover Old Town and the center. The M.O is replicated in all venues, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $ Vapiano Al. Jerozolimskie 63 (Lipinski Passage), tel.

22 356 10 50, open Mon-Thu 9:00-23:00, Fri 9:00-1:00; Sat 11:00-1:00, Sun 11:00-22:00 & ul. Taśmowa 7 (Marynarska Business Park) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) www.vapiano.de/pl Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094, open 6:30-23:00 There’s a hum and a buzz to the place that goes beyond the half a million bees kept in the apiary on the rooftop, and that’s never truer than

listings / restaurants on a Sunday afternoon – swing by for one of Warsaw’s top brunches, and don’t miss the terrace – carefully shielded from the outside world by a phalanx of greenery. The Mediterranean menu has been carefully constructed using local ingredients, with the results befitting one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$

japanese & sushi Hana Sushi al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 22 331 7518, open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hanasushi.pl Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 & ul. Biały Kamień 4, tel. 22 424 0055, open

Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking.

Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$ Ou Sushi ul. Domaniewska 17/19, tel. 22 847 16 63, open 12:00-21:00, www.ousushi.pl There can never be enough sushi in Warsaw, not least when it’s this good. The temaki rolls are outstanding. $$ Robata by Akashia Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767, www.akashia.pl, open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 Upstairs is raw and red and black, while downstairs is more calming, though no less interesting: it’s like stepping into a Manga comic, what with the Godzilla graffiti and industrial format. Even

the staff look like they’ve been ordered to dress up like Tokyo cool kids. The star here though is the robata grill. We opted for a ‘spray and pray’ approach: ordering lots of little dishes in the hope something would come up trumps. In the event, everything did. $$ Ryż i Ryba (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, open Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, www.ryziryba.pl The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, open MonThu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30, Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in

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listings / restaurants Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Sushi Club (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 114 1414, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:0023:00, Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sushi-club. pl A couple of dining rooms to choose from, including one found in a restorative salt cave.

The lack of English on the menu may leave you bamboo-zled, but the overall quality is rewarding. We return for the salmon nigri and tuna hosomaki. $$ Sushi Marina-Mokotów ul. Warowna 1, tel. 22 493 0302, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.sushimarina.pl Since its heyday in the 00s sushi has been in decline in Warsaw – well, no-one told Marina-Mokotów, and it’s a good job as well. Completely

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creative in its offer, this isn’t just another Wa-wa sushi joint. Elaborate rolls are built with forensic precision using the freshest of ingredients. In a place like this, it’s easy to fall in love with sushi all over again. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold and creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Tekeda Sushi & Wok (D1) ul. Freta 18, tel. 600 351 818 & ul.

Meissnera 1/3, tel. 606 236 050, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.sushitekeda.pl Tekeda gets it right with a good balance of sushi and ramen dishes. The grilled maki is particularly pleasing. $$

Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.tomo.pl Excellent.

While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Wabu ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 628 9274, wabu.pl Sushi gets a five star makeover in Wabu, a place that pretty much blows the competition out of the water. You’ll be paying handsomely for the honor, but what do you expect from a venue where bottles of Moet sit in buckets of ice. Intimate and luxurious, Wabu proudly boast that there is no menu and that instead, ‘every dish is a unique composition’ prepped by their chefs according to your whims… Full review next issue. $$$

listings / restaurants Wasabi Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. 22 314 6963, open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-19:00, restauracjawasabi.pl A humdrum design shouldn’t be allowed to detract from what’s rated as the best value for money deal on sushi you’ll find in the city. The sets are a phenomenal deal, and the crowd a welcome step back from the preening posers of Sakana nearby. $$

jewish Galil (C3) ul. Zielna 36, tel. 731 492 634, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Sun 14:00-23:00, www.galil-restaurant.pl There’s been a few Jewish restaurants opened in the last couple of years, and they’ve all quickly folded.

Already though, there’s the impression Galil might last the distance, a point underlined by the rather good food. We started with a zesty tabouleh before moving on to grilled chicken breast with dates and a syrup glaze. Set inside a rambling, tiled interior, this labyrinthine space already looks like its snaring big-spending groups. Kosher certified, as well. $$ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, open 10:0023:00, www.podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them engaged in something akin to war with the people they serve. $

latin & mexican Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, open Sun-Thu 9:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00, www.aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life.

Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, open

Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.bluecactus.pl It’s been around for so long that people had started referring to the Cactus in the past tense.

Enter executive chef Patrick Hanna, a man who has revitalized and revived the place in a way no-one could have imagined.

Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, Hanna has reawakened this sleeping giant. Committed to local produce and fresh flavors, his finest moment has been hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Say it loudly: the Blue Cactus is back! $$

Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, www.casapablo. pl While increasingly well represented in the capital, Spanish food has been pointed in a new direction by Casa Pablo. Breaking away from hackneyed clichés, the eclectic interior (tartan colors, crates, a century old mirror) is reflective of a menu that places equal importance on flair, quality and elements of fine dining. Based on the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, find the likes of pork ribs in hoi sin and honey sauce introduced, not to mention cod cooked at 45 C and served with pigs trotters. You’ll be amazed. $$

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.dostacos.pl Found high up in the increasingly naff-looking Millennium Plaza, Dos Tacos is adorned with Aztec murals and cartoonish finishes. A growing number of Americans can be found making their way to Floor 5 of the Millennium, and that’s to sample an exciting range of salsas and a solid menu of Mexican staples. $ Gringo Bar ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, open Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-20:00 Owned by a local hip hop star, this Gringo clearly knows what he’s doing. From the punchy salsa right down to the Jarridos soda, this tiny locale doles out Warsaw’s most authentic burritos knocked out by friendly staff dressed in baggy t-shirts and www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants back-to-front caps. $ Ole Tapas (E5) ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. ole-restaurant.pl A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 The food is good, which has to count for something: from light bites like tortillas, to pots of fresh mussels, everything we’ve tried in this Hispanic-themed spot has been culinary gold. Hanging hocks of ham come scattered around casual, intimate interiors, and further brownie points are gained for a smoking room that doesn’t choke you as well as hilarious toilets (lads, see if you measure up…). $$

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, open 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Howling hot salsas and freshly made tortillas give WTF a head start on other restaurants, but there are other strings to their poncho: the menu has been slimmed and continues to be tinkered with, while the introduction of zł. 19 lunches – served on Alcatraz trays – present one of the best deals in town. We’ve enjoyed the burritos here for years, and score them as the best in town. $$

middle eastern HeyooDubai (B2) Al. Jana Pawła 45/54, tel. 535 075 770, open 11:00-23:00, tagine.pl Any doubts you have about a restaurant trying to cover the

cuisine of Morocco, Pakistan and the Gulf states is immediately dispelled by the thick, rich aromas that pour from the traditional Mandi oven. The couscous is stalwart, and the charcoal grilled chicken a dish of real standing. Affordable and casual, Heyoo is the real deal. $$

Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, open daily 11:0023:00, www.lecedre. pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, open 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is

Spanish owner, Spanish chef… SPANISH SOUL! ul. Grzybowska 63 (next to the Hilton Hotel) 00-844 Warszawa +48 22 251 1310 www.tapasgastrobar.pl

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listings / restaurants key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sokotra.pl A Yemeni restaurant with a brief menu full of recognizable Eastern dishes like hummus and grilled halloumi. And one of the big boons is the discovery that Indian influences also fall under the compass of Yemeni cuisine – the madras leaves you puffing smoke rings.

Find all that in a casual interior composed of chattery locals, sunken seating and mysterious concrete additions – e.g. a telegraph pole squeezed amid the tables. $$

polish Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure.

Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation

they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, open Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30, www. aterlieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier has no rival – this is the best restaurant in the country, bar none. Find a tasting menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Outstanding Achievement” Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831

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listings / restaurants 1841, open daily 12:00-24:00 Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $ Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, open 12:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00); Sun 12:00-22:00, www.bialages.pl For that elegant touch of Zhivago-era class, it’s got to be Biała Gęś. Interiors conjure images of a countryside manor; you imagine rolling up here after a day shooting foxes. Yet it’s not those blighters on the menu, but geese.

That’s the house specialty, and you’d do well to find better. A whole bird for four is yours for zł. 490. $$$ Bistro Warszawa (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. 22 635 3769, open daily 12:00-24:00, www.bistrowarszawa.pl The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw people city-wide. $$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717, open

Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 A nationwide chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in bread. Twenty-something Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00, www.dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, open daily 12:00-last guest, www. delicjapolska.pl For as long as they’ve been around (and that’s quite some time) Delicja Polska have enjoyed a reputation for doing things right. That means service – all pomp and splendor – that means food – all artistic Polish – and it also means design. Their new location fits the bill with an elegant

Exotic Moroccan Tajines & Couscous Mandi Oven + Charcoal Grill Enjoy the unique taste from Morocco and the Arab World HeyooDubai Restaurant Al. Jana Pawla 45/54 Tel. 535 075 770 Open daily 11:00-23:00 www.facebook.com/heyoodubai; www.tagine.pl

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terrace that’s befitting of this historic Royal Route. $$

Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjadompolski.pl Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, open daily 12:00-midnight, www.folkgospoda.pl To quote an unknown source, traditional Polish food is a celebration of ‘heritage, culture, singing and vodka.’ But snooty Warsaw doesn’t do traditional, at least not in the same way tourist havens like Kraków do. So it’s a joy to find Folk Gospoda. Good humored and filled with gnarled furniture and mountain songs, it’s a place where warm memories are made. Mains are a manly affair (solid, meaty and generous in size) and arrive courtesy of waiters dressed as Zakopane tinkers. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, open daily 12:00-24:00 (kitchen to 23:00), www.czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment.

Which explains the playful nature of this commie themed restaurant. Dining is done under red banners and paintings of nasty political activists, while the menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the dignitary and proletariat – all details that saw it names as one of the Top 25 Unique Restaurants in the World. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$ Kafe Zielony Niedwiedz (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, open 8:00-23:00. The Smolna address is a bit misleading – in reality, you’ll be traipsing down into the park under the ‘hammer head’ tower before reaching Zbyszek Kmieć’s restaurant. But you’ll be glad you did. The menu has hints of Atelier Amaro in its fiendish attention to natural Polish produce: the cream of beetroot soup is peerless, and the boar ragout gains similar approval. This is a

listings / restaurants happy marriage where traditions are turned on their head using creative techniques and precise presentation. At the same time, be warned the scene here might not appeal: it’s very stars in your eyes as Polish celebs – both major and minor – swan about while their acolytes simper. $$ Kluska Polska (D4) ul. Szpitalna 4, tel. 602 550 786, open Mon-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00, www.kluskapolska.pl The crazy black and white design has you thinking you’ve stepped into a cartoon cutout, so for the love of God, don’t take any funny little pills before you enter. The menu is simple and traditional, with hefty dumplings the dominant entity. Cheap and cheerful, all the signs suggest a success story in the making. $ Pierrogeria (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. 22 743 7644, open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.pierrogeria.eu Pierogi: the pride of the Polish pantry… Pervasive in their presence,

no other dish features so heavily on local menus. Even so, the search for perfect pierogi can lead only to one door: and you’ll find that particular portal on pl. Konstytucji.

Through their use of unconventional fillings and natural ingredients, Pierrogeria elevate a standard, staple food into a class of its own. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.podwale25.pl Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00 Delicate

diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.podgigantami. pl Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, open 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjarozana.

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listings / restaurants com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees.

From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc.

U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, open 12:00-last guest, www.ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is paired by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.uszwejka.pl Named after fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives

in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. $$

seafood Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, open 11:00-23:00 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, open 10:00-22:00, www.zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

scandinavian Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www. nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food?

There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and

Authentic Portuguese cuisine with an excellent selection of wine ul. Merliniego 2 tel. 22 898 0925 restauracja@portucale.pl www.portucale.pl

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fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

Seaside Bistro (D5) ul. Wilcza 26, tel. 607 562 122, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:0021:00 Who doesn’t like being greeted at the door by a hearty buongiorno? That comes from Mario, a chef who insists on flying his ingredients daily from Italy. The seafood is the best we’ve had in Warsaw: huge shrimps, and mussels served in an invigorating white wine sauce that’s both salty and spicy. The interior is a simple fisherman’s cabin space, and it’s easy to overlook details such as scraggy tables and obnoxious expats with slicked back hair and big, chunky watches: with food like this, who cares? $$

specialty food shops African Shop ul. Andersa 27, tel. 507 247 292, open MonSat 10:00-20:00, www.afroeuro.eu Beans, beverages, flour and soup thickeners. Hair products and cosmetics also available, and they promise to be bringing in Abyssinian

Chef José Costa Invites you!

listings / restaurants coffee in the near future as well. ‘’Excellent,’’ gushes one Zimbabwean connection.

Bazar Olkuska ul. Olkuska 12, open Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00; Sat 7:30-16:00 Filling the void left by the departure of Hala Koszyki, Bazar Olkuska garners together an array of top suppliers for your grocery wants and needs: stalls include those of I Love Hummus, La Petit France, Crazy Butcher and Damas. Ethnically varied, the principle narrative strand connecting them all is the quality.

Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, www.befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’.

Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend.

Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc.

Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items like Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc.

Food & Joy ul. Nowy Świat 7, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-17:00, www.foodandjoy.eu An upmarket deli chain from the same team behind Krakowski Kredens and Alma.

Heritage ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912, open Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Some people use Heritage as a wine bar, while others see it as more than that. And so it is.

Peruse the Italian hams and cheeses in their fridge, olive oils, sauces and of course wine.

Lots and lots of wine.

globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, open Mon-Wed 9:00-20:00; Thu-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www. lafromagerie.pl Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, gourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more.

La Petite France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, open Mon-Sat 10:30-18:30, www.lapetitefrance. pl Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France.

Krakowski Kredens Various locations across town, check their website for details: www.krakowskikredens. pl Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region.

Le Targ ul. Mińska 25 (SOHO Factory), tel. 603 051 116, open Sat 10:00-15:00 Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves, Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the

Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, www.littleindia. pl The definitive Indian store though it

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listings / restaurants doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul.

Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked

goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves.

Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service.

Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.targsniadaniowy. pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town.

New to Warsaw!

Outdoor cooking classes with a pair of crazy Warsaw guides!

Presenting Polish cuisine in a way never seen before, Marcin and Adam will give you a trip to remember…

www.warsawfoodtours.com www.facebook.com/ warsawfoodtours

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Targ Spożywczy Poziom -1 ul. Bracka 25, open Fri 12:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. Find this food market occupying the basement floor of the historic Dom Bracia Jabłkowscy. Local producers peddle artisan produce that ranges from chocolate and cakes to hams, wine, preserves and bread. There’s even a stall retailing edible creepy crawlies.

Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, open Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00 (Office) www. schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

whole foods Krowarzywa (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 516 894 767, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00 Even committed meat eaters concede there’s something special here. This is a burger bar with a difference: the stuff between the bun is vegan – and way superior to the majority of ‘proper’ burger bars. Very popular with the local hipsters, so anticipate bewildering fashion statements and eccentric hair. $ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.lovinghut.waw.pl What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. Now also found downtown on Waryńskiego 3. $

Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, www.cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

Pestka (D4) ul. Bracka 6/8, tel. 691 706 900, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.organicbistro-pestka. pl A simple, soothing space of sparing decorations, light modern finishes and plenty of natural light that gushes through the windows. Eschewing the fat and lard that used to feature so prominently in local living, Pestka is all about organic: consider it a gateway to sensible living and a balanced diet.

Even the fish is tested for high metal content.

Recommended are the bio-baguettes, corn tortilla wraps and wholemeal pancakes. $

Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 663 040 800, www. jospehseeletso.pl A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailor-made courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself.

W Gruncie Rzeczy (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 692 464 489, open 10:00-23:00 A vegan haven whose menu is heavily slanted towards local produce. The offer includes a number of vegan pastes, sandwiches, beetroot burgers and soups (e.g. cream of pumpkin with coconut milk).

The presence of equally hip Meat Love next door is something of a foil, with the two neighbors naturally complimenting each other. $

cooking schools

cafes & wine bars Wrzenie Świata

cafés Blikle (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35 (check website for other locations), tel. 22 826 6619, open Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-last guest, www. blikle.pl There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100 year history.

Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who swore by their donuts.

SIX OF THE BEST: READING SPOTS BAR STUDIO (Pl. Defilad 1) Immerse yourself in culture in Bar Studio: readings, screenings and performances all take place, though we enjoy it most without the human interaction – chill (sometimes literally) with a book in the shadow of PKiN. CHLODNA 25 (ul. Chłodna 25) Now owned by a journalist and a politician Chłodna has traded its hipster beginnings for something more refined and intelligent – which is all conducive for lingering under the colonnades with a coffee and book.

KAFKA (ul. Oboźna 3) It’s easy to distance yourself from the studenty shenanigans of book-lined Kafka – just cross the road and sink into one of their deckchairs. But watch for hazardous flying objects: i.e. Frisbees.

PAŃSTWOMIASTO (ul. Andersa 29) A socially aware cafe with plenty of community events and arty debates. No-one bats an eyelid if you sit solo on their terrace with a beer and a book.

WRZENIE ŚWIATA (ul. Gałczyńskiego 7) Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its deckchaired terrace.

ZIELONY JAZDÓW (ul. Jazdów 2) Lurking in the grounds of Ujazdowskie Castle, Zielony Jazdów have a tented canopy and plenty of hammocks.

Stick your nose in a book while yoga classes and urban markets take place on the grass.

Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24, tel. 794 000 634, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-16:00, www.bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place.

Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, open 7:0023:00, www.bycmoze.com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in this industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

Café 6/12 (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.612.pl Famous for dispensing complex fruit and vegetable super smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; the cavernous interiors are still very much the choice haunt for on trend 30 something’s.

Café Iluzja (C9) ul. Narbutta 50A, tel. 698 423 738, open daily 11:00-22:00, www.cafeiluzja.pl Bathed in white and black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black and white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a cult socialist era cinema.

Chłodna 25 ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 604 614 287, open MonFri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:0022:00 It’s back! Under new management, this Warsaw legend has been reclaimed from the hipsters and given over to the creative classes. A place of creaking floorboards, retro armchairs and bookshelves in the process of being filled, that this neighborhood hangout draws more than just neighbors is evidence of its greatness. And the really good bit?

They’ve now got beer (Bojan, Lwówek and Goralskie) – let joy be unconfined!

Christian’s Bakerhouse (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345, open daily 9:00-21:00, www.bakerhouse.pl “Our chef places great emphasis on quality,” confided our waitress, and that’s no word of a lie. Numerous national breakfasts are represented, from nutritious kick-starters to a full British fry-up – which we’ve yet to see bettered by anywhere in Warsaw. The pet project of celebrity chef Krystian Zalejski – and not some nutty religious order as the name might suggest – the offer extends beyond breakfast to good Italian staples cooked with a twist.

Crepe Café ul. Dobra 19, tel. 22 121 2275, open 8:00-

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20:00 The design is refreshing and modern: heavy on white, with several punches of color.

As for the crepes, no-one in Warsaw does them better. The strawberry pancake, served with white chocolate and Nutella, is satisfaction in its purest form. And once you’re done with their 30 or so pancakes, move onto the waffles…

Czuła Buła ul. Narbutta 16, tel. 668 134 736, open Mon-Fri 7:30-20:00; Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-16:00. With its whitewashed bricks and potted greenery Czuła Buła looks just about like every other café that’s opened this year.

Exceedingly pleasant as a summer spot, hats get tipped for their sandwiches, desserts and fruit concoctions. If you’re in the ’hood, why not check it out.

Dr. Kava (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 601 615 327, open Mon-Fri 7:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00 Looking dynamite red, Dr. Kava was one of the success stories of 2013 – some go as far as to say it’s their favorite coffee in the city.

Coffee from Chicco d’Oro and chocolates and confectionary from pedigree producer Leone signal this doctor’s dedication to his clientele.

Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21, tel. 791 096 725, open Mon-Thur 8:00-22:00; Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes

Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel. 22 826 0822, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. kawiarnia-kafka.pl Floor-to-ceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses.

Kava i Vino (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 692 7314, www.kavaivino.pl The standout feature is an unconventional interior designed by renowned architects Dobek, Wojcickiego, Białobrzeska, Boczko. Over 1,200 pieces of wood hang from the ceiling, creating a beautiful visual effect. The short menu features wine, cold meat platters, cheese bruschetta, wraps, salads and sandwiches, as well as a few daily specials – the results are fair to good.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 828 5417, open Mon-Wed 10:00-23:00; Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun14:00-23:00, www. miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been.

listings / cafés & wine bars Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 503 080 906, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www.ministerstwokawy.pl Ranked 16th in the WORLD, you can put your faith in the house barista. Using Arabica from Colombia, Kenya and Guatemala, rave reviews are both standard and appropriate.

The backdrop muddles pristine wall tiles with comfy chaises and uber-cool lighting, with the ambience never too commercial, nor too hipster – rather, just right.

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00, www.mito.art. pl Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in

the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9446, open 9:00-24:00, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while spring sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-18:00 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Sueño Café & Tapas Bar ul. Oboźna 9/100, tel. 22 826 8317, open Mon-Thu 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 The simple

décor, inspired by a traveller’s way of living, provides a casual yet lively atmosphere.

Surfboards and beach photographs decorate the walls and hammocks hang from the ceilings. The owners, kite surfers and avid travellers, have combined ideas from various different countries – evident not only in the décor but also in the menu.

WakeCup Café ul. Franciszkańska 14, tel. 503 113 240, open Mon-Fri 7:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 8:0021:00, wakecupcafe.pl A superb discovery landed in the no-man’s land that straddles New Town and Muranów. WakeCup don’t believe in taking coffee shortcuts (recommended: raspberry frappe), and have a fiendish obsession with beans from Brazil.

Also notable and noteworthy for their fruity cocktails, pastries and energetic café buzz.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon-Tue 10:00-22:00; Wed-Sat 10:00-24:00, www.alewino.pl Warsaw is increasingly devoted to megalith wine worlds. In comparison, Ale Wino is small fry, Lilliputian even. Yet there’s a real charm that wins over all. Covertly stashed inside a courtyard, that Ale Wino’s! neighbors include fashion Tsar Robert Kupisz announce this place as the frontline of cool – as if to qualify this, find furnishings by the

AUTHENTIC ITALIAN CUISINE PREPARED BY REAL ITALIANS

address: Freta 41/43, Warszawa e-mail: info@nonnarita.pl open hours: Tue-Sun: from 12:00 to last client

Nonna Rita recommends: Pinot Grigio “Dama d’Oro”, Marchese Adorno

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listings / cafés & wine bars celebrated design brains at Studio Rygalik.

Stocked with wines from 16 countries, place your trust in sommelier Adrian Litkowicz for a taste of something special.

Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44. open 12:00-23:00 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone. The wine selection was personally overseen by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country. And the choice is prodigious. Offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

BEST WAWA 2013 “Wine Bar”

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, tel. 515 037 001, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hoza.warszawa.pl Successfully establishing themselves over last summer, you’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine?

Complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. Quite a fabulous choice.

Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, open Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.prawdziwewina.pl Some think of this as a neighborhood wine bar – they’re clearly privileged, because if everyone had a Jung & Lecker next door it’d be a kind world indeed. While the courtyard garden is a highlight, even in the sub-zero season there’s reason to swing by. Offering an intimate atmosphere and a strong menu,

Ice Cream Shops Budka z Lodami ul. Francuska 30 This innocuous wooden cabin has become a summer staple for Sunday Saska strollers. Natural ingredients and creative flavor combinations have installed it as a legend. Just brilliant.

Lody Naturalne ul. Mokotowska 12 Little more than a hole in the wall, this street-side nook has a modest offer that’s offset by complete quality – you can feel the purity. Insider favorite: mango.

Ciepłe Zimne ul. Wilcza 17 Looking every inch the cliché ice cream parlor, Ciepłe Zimne don’t have many surprises up their sleeve, but they do score heavy points.

Their watermelon ice cream is a treat.

Lody Prawdziwe ul. Świętokrzyska 30 A tiny, boutique ice cream store that prides itself on the provenance of its ingredients. Look out for their ice cream of the day, which in the past has meant such flavors as Oreo and Snickers.

La Maison ul. Chłodna 15 An upmarket French themed café / restaurant / hangout that’s particularly noted for its selection of ice creams and sorbet. Itsy bitsy serving are balanced out by sheer quality.

Limoni Canteri 1952 various locations, inc. ul. Dąbrowskiego 1 An artisan Italian gelato stop. The Venetian-born owner thrives on experimentation, with traditional flavors matched by the inclusion of oddities such as cucumber, beer and, even, ice cream for your dog!

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Malinova Al. Niepodłegości 130 Some argue this is the best ice cream in the city, it’s certainly one of the most famous. Opened in 2001 – vintage by Warsaw standards – there’s an old-school feel to this cult classic.

U Hodunia ul. Nowomiejska 7/9 At times the lengthy queues stretch right out the door.

Established in 1985 this old timer is a classic affair with a few surprises: e.g.

Smurf or whisky flavored ice cream.

the finishing touch is provided by way of wines sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00); Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:30-21:00, www.mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates with city casual cool.

Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, open 11:00-23:00, www.portucale.pl The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, tel. 22 542 8031, open Mon-Sat 12.00-23.00; Sun 12.00-20.00, www.winkolekcja.pl You can’t pick your neighbors... In WinKolekcja’s case, that means a kebab shop opposite and a bottle bank with a constant stream of street bums. But in spite of the curious location, this new wine bar/store looks set to thrive; the wine choice is comprehensive, and the food excellent. The design has the routine look of a club class lounge area; even so, it’s a timely addition to an area not rich in options. Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 521 06 66, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00 Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve already won a staunchly loyal following.

nightlife bars & pubs

Haka

Bazar (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13, tel. 508 321 264, open 12:00-last guest There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, open daily 12:00-4:00, www.beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

OFF THE CARD COCKTAILS HAKA (Bracka 20) Bar star Arnie is a Warsaw legend, and many of his off-menu, ad-libbed inventions are created using his own fruit infused vodkas and spirits. Ask him for a Hakini (coriander lime juice, natural chili, coconut and lychee syrup, melon liquer, vodka and a bit of love!).

LENIVIEC (Poznańska 7) There were natural suspicions when Leniviec made the transition from coffee to cocktails, but whose laughing now?

Barman Patryk is a modern day alchemist, and his creations make use of quality spirits, fresh fruits, herbs and spices.

KITA KOGUTA (Kurcza 6/14) It’s like Dexter’s Laboratory at times in Kita Koguta, a place where the management give free reign to staff to get creative: e.g. cocktails served in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go to plan, but that’s part of the fun.

SYRENI ŚPIEW (Szara 10A) Bills can get large in Syreni Śpiew, primarily because you won’t stop with one drink – more like ten. The house classics are good, but the off-the-cuff inventions are even better. Drink them on the outdoor summer deck while watching the park life.

SECADO (Marszałkowska 66) They’d only been open for about six minutes but still managed to scoop the Insider’s Best Cocktail Bar award in 2013. The bar staff like to experiment, lending new twists to established favorites. Challenge the staff, the results are ace.

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Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, www.bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd. What has remained constant is the energy. Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The most faithful replica of an English pub you’ll find. And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager. Judging by the standard of their beer, you might want to follow their example.

listings / nightlife Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 22 890 77 05, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream garbage. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus an outdoor wooden terrace that’s largely superior to anything in the area.

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106, open 10:00-2:00, www.cudanakiju.pl Warsaw’s multi-tap revolution started here!

This sleek space comes drenched in sunlight that slants through the four glass walls, while the shaded courtyard is a summer must and frequently utilized for various one-off events.

Find 15 taps dispensing regional and craft brews as well as quirky imports from Czech, Belgium and beyond.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), tel. 505 695 512, open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.czesc.waw.pl Some say it’s more of a café – we say, check the fridge. Despite its diminutive size Cześć have one of the most adventurous alcohol offers in the city, with a steady stream of British cider (Sheppy’s, Weston’s, Old Rosie), Polish lagers (Artezan, Pinta) and other international names (Grimbergen, Crabbies). If there was an award for best neighborhood hangout, they’d breeze it.

Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, open Tue-Thu, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www. czeskabaszta.pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary.

Bathed in a yellowish murk, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk!

There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

Elephant Belgian Pub (C1) ul. Freta 19, tel. 532 742 400, open

Mon-Thu 14:00-23:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-23:00 Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all.

Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855, open MonFri 13:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00, www.goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Haka (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 515 967 123, open MonWed 10:00-24:00; Thu-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00 Big things are happening in this small little room. Under the stewardship of Kevin Bradley this ex-pat hit has now added Guinness and live sports (it’s the rugger bugger favorite) to their offer to go alongside a fab menu by Kiwi chef Shane. An intimate space clad in brickwork and metal, Haka gets further applause for adding Arnie – Warsaw’s favorite cocktail king – to their staff lineup.

Heca ul. Chmielna 21, tel. 504 353 772, open Sat 18:00-3:00 There’s a few spots vying for the title of ‘sensation of the summer’ and Heca might just nose it. Found in a courtyard, this place eschews a vibe more common with Amsterdam or Berlin: DJs spin records while a crowd of fashion savvy locals lap up artisan beers. Ringing it all find stalls selling ice pops, waffles, even grilled insects.

Jedna Trzecia ul. Wilcza 52, tel 605 589 588, open MonThu 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-2:00; Sat-Sun 14:00-24:00 Who doesn’t like crossing a little metal bridge to get to a pub? And even more so when the pub in question happens to be Belgian. If the design is industrial – breeze blocks and chipboard – then that

doesn’t reflect on the overall feel: muted mustard lighting and a laidback audience soften the edge. The real snare, however, is the beer: 70 or so bottles in the fridge(s) and about seven on tap.

Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 512 307 284, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat 16:00-2:00 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, it’s the kind of cocktail bar that Warsaw’s been waiting for.

Find innovative cocktails fixed by fun, playful staff, not to mention unexpected surprises such as a bike with antlers and prizes (a yo-yo!) for anyone who can make an origami paper cock out of the menu (as in a rooster, not something naughty).

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 791 334 606, open daily 12:00-4:00 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218, open Mon-Thu 14:00-2:00; Fri 14:00-4:00; Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00, www. kufleikapsle.pl Ten tap and two pump beers offer a magnificent spread of daily changing beers, and the good news continues with the choice in the fridge: there’s 120 beers down there, so gamble on a rather jolly night. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the building, and are already thick with noise, clamor and the welcome scent of beer and spillage. BEST WAWA 2013 “Beer Bar” Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 790 010 088, open Mon-Fri 16:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest, www.kwadrat.waw.pl Nights get blurry in Kwadrat, one of the first bars in town to spread the gospel of regional and new wave beer. Enjoy it alongside an amiable, late 20s crowd.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife www.legendsbar.pl A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background.

Leniviec (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, open Mon-Thu 7:30-24:00; Fri 7:30-2:00; Sat 9:00-2:00; Sun 9:0024:00, www.leniviec.pl Poznańska? More like Pose-nańska. Join the bright and the beautiful inside Leniviec, a hip haunt that’s shed its cafe roots and returned to earth as a cocktail bar. And a good one. Place your faith in Patryk the bar maestro.

Lolek (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), tel. 22 825 6202, open daily 11:00-03:00, www. lolekpub.pl A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a park-centered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open fire inside this classic rough-and-ready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged.

Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. tel. 510 905 592, open Mon-Thu 16:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00 Tight trousers and flamboyant scarves are recommended in this hipster mecca, as is a triumphant drinks choice that

numbers short of sixty regional beers. Design doesn’t go beyond jam jars for lights and a messy blackboard, but that’s all this place needs to work. Similar to a backstreet New York dive it’s got an effortless cool and our beer of the year: the minty flavor/raspberry hint M3.

Na Lato ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 692 280 094, open Mon 8:00-23:00; Tue-Thu 8:00-1:00; Fri 8:00-5:00; Sat 10:00-5:00; Sun 10:0024:00. Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd that’s all glinting watches and logo-clad bags. The expanse of greenery outside has installed it as one of Warsaw’s principal seasonal drinking zones.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest condensation of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 6306, open Mon-Sun 18:00-

2:00, www.panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, tel. 691 472 969, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf.

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl Patera fill a binary role: first as an Asian eatery, and second as a cocktail bar. And my, what cocktails. Offering several classics, and a few modern creations, the Ginger Peach Collins is already installed as our cocktail of choice for summer 2014.

Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 83 73, open

Restauracja / Bar / Klub

ul. Nowy Świat 58, Warszawa | Al. Jana Pawła 9-11 (Aleja Topolowa), Gdynia www.bollywoodlounge.pl / Polub nas na Facebooku

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listings / nightlife Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul.

Parkingowa), tel. 534 734 500, open 24 hrs Dubbing themselves to be Warsaw’s first ‘hyper tap bar’, Piw Paw have an armory of 57 tap beers, about ten tables and two toilets – do you see the problem? Designed more for carry-out custom, it’s an ambitious project though one that doesn’t feel entirely thought out. And in spite of the offer, it’s nothing more exciting than the other multi-tap choices. A good start point, nonetheless.

Plac Barcelona (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 501 988 768, open Sun-Thu 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-1:00.

Those who think this area’s star has waned need look no further than Plac Barcelona, a pristine bar with a star studded clientele. The interiors feature stark white colors and an interesting multi-level seating arrangement.

Most, however, prefer to give themselves maximum exposure and do both their sipping and sitting outdoors.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976, open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. www.planb.pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Pociąg do Piwa ul. Dereniowa 2, tel. 501 022 890, open

14:00-last guest Jumping onto the multi-tap bandwagon is Pociąg do Piwa, a smallish locale whose one design element is a steam engine traced into the wall using bottle tops.

There’s 12 taps in all, and they primarily distribute cult Polish beers from the likes of Pinta and AleBrowar.

Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24, tel. 604 942 169, open Sun-Wed 10:00-1:00; Thu 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-3:00. Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative.

Rumbarak Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. 600 415 000 Settle in under the arcades of pl. Zbawiciela and join

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listings / nightlife Warsaw’s posers and pretenders sipping on Belgian beers and organic wines. The petite menu has won several plaudits, and this intimate spot already looks like eclipsing Charlotte as the place to be seen. That does, however, mean you’re likely to leave with earache from all the senseless yabbering going on around.

Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has WW

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turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails. Try their best seller: the Bloody Hell. Using Chopin vodka infused with horse radish, pirri pirri and basil, this pimped out version of the Bloody Mary incorporates chili syrup and wasabi in a high octane drink BEST WAWA 2013 that kicks like a mule.

“Cocktails” Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 796 671 950, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

Sztuki i Sztuczki (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 468 00 00, open Sun-Thu 12:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 18:00-last guest, www.sztukisztuczki.pl Visitors negotiate a maze of narrow corridors, nooks and corners, with meanderings to the leviathan, boat-shaped bar taking in concrete floors, naked brickwork and vaulted ceilings. The beer list offers a jumble of exemplary brews, among them the outstanding Grimbergen, while cocktails are novel and largely ravishing. And of course, it helps that enjoyment of them is done on ultra-cool seats designed

by Pierre Favresse. Rather than attracting gurning wannabe’ Latino dudes and plastic models the music attracts a diverse range of peeps: that’s thanks to a schedule that encompasses everything from jazz tributes to club nights. BEST WAWA 2013 “Late Night” Temat Rzeka (G3) Under Poniatowskiego Bridge, open Sun-Tue 11:00-1:00; Wed 11:00-2:00; Thu 11:003:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-5:00 Making its debut last year, Temat emerged as Warsaw’s favorite summer home. Appearing as a pimped-up cargo container, this beach bar complex has a busy schedule that involves DJ performances and film nights. It can feel saturated, but only the weather stops people turning up in their

hundreds – and sometimes thousands.

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622, open Mon-Sun 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Warsaw’s premier sports pub: and it’s not just the extent of their sporting offer that elevates WTF, but the atmosphere. Whether it’s international rugby, or Bristol City on a Tuesday night, the tension, camaraderie and horseplay are unmatched. On the occasions when there is no sport, swing by for live bands and a lively atmosphere fueled by a heady mix of ex-pats, international students, and locals bewildered by it all. The recent addition of boutique beverages such as Brew Dog and Thistly Cross has gone down a treat.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, tel. 22 474 40 84, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.warszawapowisle.pl The prime months for this former ticket-booth are in summer when the deck chairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as the hipster Center of Power, a collective bout of outrage saved them from council threatened closure last year. Not just a bar, they’re now filling a dual role as Warsaw’s one billionth burger joint.

You & Me ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, youandmebar.pl The dreaded restobar concept doesn’t always work, but You & Me manage to get both the food AND the drink right. And in their case, that mean innovative cocktails enjoyed by an after-work crowd of posey city slickers. The terrace is where the action is at.

clubs De Lite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 792 014 166, www.deliteclub.pl This place definitely figures highly in the ‘bubbles and beauties’ stakes. Scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis, flirting and dancing, while exposed brick and pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror setup in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, spaceship interior.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, open

listings / nightlife Wed-Sat 22:00-4:00, www.enklawa.com Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.

22:00-10:00; Fri-Sat 24:00-14:00, www. luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

Foksal XVIII (E4) ul. Foksal 18, open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00 Billed as one of the top ‘rich and pretty’ clubs in the capital, Foksal features a competitive ‘look at me’ spirit and flash interiors that are all chandeliers and champagne. Cardboard animal shapes hanging from the bar inject much needed humor to this cream of the crop club. Don’t even think of trying to gain entry without first tipping a bottle of aftershave down your pants.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 694 413 439, open Thu-Sat 21:00-6:00. www.platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now.

Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, open Wed-Thu

Sen Pszczoły ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. 530 360 060,

Shot Bars Afera na Szpitalnej (D4) ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 509 777 797, open 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 24hrs Looking light and bright this place appeals to more than just hardened alcoholics – a point proved by spot-on food home cooked by the owner’s mum. It’s young, fun and lively in swagger.

Bar Warszawa (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, tel. 504 320 497, open 24hrs Creak upstairs to find a womb-like space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations like vintage radios, pics of old stars and black and white images of bare-breasted ladies. Run as a side hobby by a TV producer, the opening hours meet with full approval.

Meta (D3/E4) ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21, open 11:00-6:00 Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to the chains of bog paper.

Pijalnia (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, open 24hrs Bow-tied staff serve vodka and pickles from behind

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a tiled bar to a crowd that gets younger as the day gets older. In quieter times, check the newspapered walls to read up on 1980s sports reports.

Przekąski u Romana (F4) ul. Ludna 2, tel. 660 525 777, open 24hrs. When Warsaw’s original shot bar, Przekąski Zakąski, closed last year the gasps were audible. But fear not, the cult hero you’d have found serving the shots, the bow-tied, debonair Roman Modzelewski, has gone and opened his own venue. Expect the same formula (cheap beer and vodka, traditional Polish boozy bites) inside a background dominated by a giant picture of the Palace of Culture.

Przekazki Zakaski (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 44, open 24hrs.

Warsaw’s first shot bar has upped sticks and moved from the Europesjski Hotel to an all-weather marquee behind the rotunda. Lacking the atmosphere of the original, it feels like a pointless attempt to trade on old glories. And not even city hall want you here: not until owner Adam Gessler pays off the millions he owes them.

open Tue-Wed 18:00-2:00; Thu-Sat 18:005:00; Sun 18:00-2:00, www.senpszczoly.pl A dive club of legend. With the original turned to ashes (literally, it burnt down last year), the owners could have been forgiven for calling it a day. They haven’t. Instead they’ve reopened in Koneser, and unleashed Warsaw’s most surreal interior in the process: amid the heavy industrial background expect bunk bed frames, a dentist’s chair and no shortage of neon painted weirdness.

Concerts are a mixed bag, and range from didgeridoo performances to inter-war songs to full-on techno.

Watch Me (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, open 19:00-4:00, www.watchmeclub.pl Seen as a glowing glass block from the outside, Watch Me unravels into a multi-level club space: one with a sunken dance zone and a neon stripped stairwell.

for gentlemen Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, tel. 794 007 000, open 21:00-4:00, www.playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”).

Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

live music 1500m2 (E3) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412, open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00, www.1500m2.com Set in a former printing factory, 1500m2 has been central to the rise of Powiśle. The industrial space has a real Berlin edge to it, and events range from weekend flea markets to teeth shattering, dusk-till-dawn electro events.

Basen (E5) ul. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 696 058 944, open Fri-Sat 21:00-6:00, www.artbasen.pl Get this, you’ll be doing your dance steps in what was formerly Warsaw’s first public swimming pool. Featuring a line-up of live bands and some of the top electronic acts around, this is definitely one to add to the watch list.

listings / nightlife Bistro na Pięknej (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.jazzone.pl A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts.

Nu Nu Nu (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 621 8989, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00.

For something a little educated take a date to Nu, a high-ceilinged effort with slick urban dashes and regular piano. The Żurawia location marks it out as a popular spot for a high-end crowd.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641, open 10:00-4:00, www.pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

park & beach bars

Boogaloo ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 2, tel. 503 151 839, open Mon-Thu 13:00-23:00; Fri 13:0024:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00, boogaloobar. pl It’s all deckchairs and hammocks at Boogaloo, a lively beach bar where evening DJs get the tipsy crowd dancing on the sands.

The fruity cocktails and tiki backdrop are a match made in heaven.

Cud nad Wisłą (E2) ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie, tel.

533 649 561, open 10:00-last guest, cudnadwisla.pl What summer drinking should be about. Deckchairs and cushions abound in this riverside spot, and it excels at night when twinkly lights reflect off the inky black waters. The live music does its bit to ensure it’s never a quiet night.

La Playa ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, www.laplaya.pl Mix-up surf inspired cocktails, lager in plastic glasses, a volleyball net, lounge chairs and some spontaneous samba, and you get the most unexpected beach party you’d ever imagine. If you’re feeling particularly daring, go skinny dipping in the murky, muddy Wisła.

Plac Zabaw (F6) ul. Myśliwiecka 9 (Park Agrykola), open 12:00-4:00 Owned by the same dudes behind Plan B, the name translates as ‘Playground’. With a low-key, open air set-up in the wooded bit under Trasa Łazienkowska, from an aesthetic point there’s little to write

home about. Even so, with summer in song you’ll find it rocking into the wee, early hours.

Plażowa (G3) Underneath Most Poniatowskiego, open 12:00-last guest They either complement Temat Rzeka next door, or steal their thunder – your choice. Set in and around a swanky new complex standing under the National Stadium, points are scored for a music stage, an open air top floor VIP platform, and toilets you aren’t terrified of entering. No word of a lie, in terms of nightlife, it’s the biggest thing to happen to Warsaw this summer.

Saski Brzeg ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 732 707 707, saskibrzeg.pl More than a series of outdoor swimming pools, Saski Brzeg have got summer nailed down with a bouncing nighttime offer that involves flamboyant cocktails, a Brazilian grill and lots of party din from guest DJs. Temat Rzeka (G3) Under Poniatowskiego Bridge, open Sun-Tue 11:00-1:00; Wed 11:00-2:00; Thu 11:00-3:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-5:00. Temat Rzeka was the sensation of last summer with nowhere else in Europe having more internet check-ins. And the success of last year has once more been revived by a busy calendar of events. The beach area in front of this sleek riverside cabin attracts hundreds, sometimes thousands, of late night revelers.

Dear Guests!

We invite you to experience an exotic and mysterious adventure full of seasonal aromas and the unforgettable flavours of traditional Indian cuisine.

Curry, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, ginger, cumin: these aromas mean it’s impossible to pass Buddha without stepping in.

Enjoy the atmosphere of Indian life, food, music and happiness.

Buddha Indian Restaurant ul. Nowy Swiat 23 +48 22 826 35 01 / 725 111 222

www.warsawinsider.pl

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shopping Vintage Store

accessories Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, www. agentprovocateur.com The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, satin gloves, a blindfold and nipple tassels…

TAKE FIVE: VINTAGE STORES HEY JOE (ul. Zlota 8) No more than 70 cm between the window and the shelves packed to the brim with vinyl, this legendary store makes for a very personal experience. The owner is more than willing to engage in conversation, guide you through his collection and share the stories behind all his rare LPs. MUZANT (ul. Warecka 4/6, www.muzant.pl) The two men that run this basement record store definitely leave you to your own devices. So you’re welcome to browse their extensive collection of second-hand LPs for as long as you please. Scour through crooners like Simon & Garfunkel, Elvis and Leonard Cohen or Spanish tango and Polish jazz.

SAFRIPSTI (ul. Oleandrów 3) Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique.

Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200?

VINTAGE STORE (ul. Dobra 56/66, vintagestore.pl) Involved in vintage fashion for over 15 years, the owner prides himself on the collection of original Adidas pullovers from the ’60s and ’70s. Sift around to discover finds such as Hermes scarves, snakeskin handbags and chic toques with marabou feathers.

VINTAGE STORE (ul. Dąbrowskiego 40, vintagestore.moonfruit.com) Not to be confused with the above, this place leaves the clothes to others and instead presents refurbished PRL era furniture: lamps, sofas, crockery, artwork, etc. This treasure trove is on the right side of affordable, making it the hipster choice for junky-but-cool home decoration.

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Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections.

Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances.

BeautyLab Polska ul. Belwederska 20/22, beautylabpolska.pl Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care.

Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, tel. 22 611 3814, open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat Sun 10:00-20:00. www.chiara-online.pl You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry.

Frey Wille ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. www.frey-wille.com You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of

listings / shopping colour. These Vienna-based jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals.

Silos, a sneaker store specializing in retro classics and Adidas originals.

Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel.

794 689 090, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00 Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line.

MOKO

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 625 0881, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-15:00, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3, tel. 884 867 518, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-18:00. The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula.

Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 403 19 19, open Mon-Fri 11:19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, www.lilou.pl Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space.

Officine 904 ul. Wilcza 3, officine904.pl Beautiful bags handmade in Florence from Italian calf leather. From clutch bags to market bags, this discreet walk-in offers uncompromising quality and craftsmanship characterized by its ‘purity of form’ and ‘utilitarian simplicity’.

Old Silos ul. Hoża 35, oldsilos.pl Relive the glory years of the 80s British ‘football casual’ in Old

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OPTYK MOKO61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 622 8002, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, moko61.com Reputed to be the best eyewear store in the city, brands include Mykita, Lindberg, Barton Perreira, Dita and much, much more. The cup of coffee supplied while you browse is on the house, and typical of their attitude to service.

Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40, tel. 798 025 505, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00 A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris.

Pracownia Szczotek ul. Poznańska 26, khaja.pl Opened in 1952, this bespoke brush store has been passed down from grandfather to father and then onto son. On offer: everything from paintbrushes to moustache combs to hairbrushes.

And the owner is a character as well: “I don’t have time for Facebook,” he says, “it would get in the way of my tango lessons!”

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 665 625 618, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel.

22 541 4141, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range.

For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

antiques Kolo ul. Obozowa 99, www.gieldastaroci.waw.pl What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. Half-junkyard, half treasure trove, it’s an experience in itself.

Kwadryga ul. Wilcza 29, www.kwadryga.com Entered through a courtyard, it’s a magnet for bibliophiles, and groans with antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless. The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an amazing insight into the past.

Prima Porta Antiquities ul. Moktowska 71, www.primaportaantiquities.com At the top end of the scale the German-run Prima Porta specialize in pieces from ancient Rome, Greece, Egypt, Mesopotamia and Asia. Formidable pieces from tiny little Egyptian clay hippos from the 12th Dynasty, all the way to one and half meter statues of Buddha from the Third Myanmar Kingdom.

Victoria Galeria ul. Żytnia 15 lok. 4, open daily 10:00-18:00, www.antykivictoria.pl Sourced from the auction houses of London, with deliveries arriving each month, the offer is overwhelmingly English, though not exclusively so – there are oriental pieces, French, and more.

Refreshing in its bright, clean style, Victoria is a magnificent environment to shop for that statement piece every living room requires.

books American Bookstore Various locations, www.americanbookstore. pl Now a nationwide chain with seven outlets alone in Warsaw. The offer is overwhelmingly commercial with a strong emphasis placed on international bestsellers. There is, however, a very decent section dedicated to Polish history and tourism.

Bookoff Ogrodowa 7, tel. 22 253 6286, www.bookoff. pl A cult bookstore filled with trendy fashion and design bibles, photography albums, www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / shopping on-trend cookbooks and grown-up comics.

You could potentially end up spending really rather heavily.

Centrum Komiksu al. Niepodległości 148 Enter the realm of scifi, superheroes and Manga inside Centrum Komiksu, an unabashed geek-fest that draws not-at-all-creepy enthusiasts sifting through a classic collection of comics and collectibles.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl Look no further for books on modern Polish / Warsaw history. Of particular note are the picture heavy coffee table tomes that focus on Poland’s immediate pre-war, occupation and socialist years. Boffins are happy to spend hours browsing.

Fundacja Bęc Zmiana ul. Mokotowska 65/7, www.beczmiana.pl A tiny curiosity shop retailing hipster t-shirts, trendy trinkets and a fair amount of arty books with a strong slant towards contemporary Warsaw.

Super Salon ul. Chmielna 10, tel. 22 468 1619, open Mon-Sat 11:00-19:00, www.supersalon. org The sort of titles you find in a cool New York magazine store: Apartmento, Elephant, The Gourmand, Kinfolk, Cereal, Aperture, and Gather. And check out the amazing art books published by the likes of Steidl, Mack, Gestalten and Powerhouse.

fashion American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 605645289, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style.

Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00, tel.

22 611 3814, pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat Sun 10:00-20:00, www.chiara-online.pl A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander.

Designer Secret ul. Mokotowska 39 (courtyard), tel. 506 051 048 or 511 649 493, open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-15:00, www.designersecret.pl High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with ladies and mens apparel from the previous years’ collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price.

Frank A ul. Natolińska 3, tel. 22 424 79 79, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.franka.pl The interior is painfully chic and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch.

Joanna Klimas ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, ul. Puławska 2 (CH Plac Unii), open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.joannaklimas.com One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion.

Likus Concept Store ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), tel. 22 310 73 13, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 622 02 76, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 519 000 049, open Mon-Sat 11:00-19:00, www.zien.pl A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultimate designer showroom.

Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489, open

Marks & Spencer Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 206 4370, open

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Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00. ul.

Marszałkowska 104/122 (DT Wars & Sawa), tel. 22 206 4353, open 9:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00, Al. Jerozolimskie 179, tel. 22 206 4386, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00, Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0653, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www.marks-and-spencer.com. pl The popular British brand’s new Warsaw store sells menswear, womenswear and children’s clothing, as well as various beauty products, groceries, wines and spirits. This is its newest and largest store in Poland to date.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, www. moliera2.com Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Isabel Marant, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch and Balmain.

Mostrami.pl www.mostrami.pl Known to insiders as the ‘Polish Net-a-porter’, the online Mostrami portal showcases a whole breed of Polish fashion talent: Blessus, Justyna Chrabelska, Łukasz Jemioł, and Zuo Corp, as well as the rock stars of the local scene such as Kupisz, Zień and Plich. Around 100 designers to choose from, with prices straddling the wide spectrum of purchasing power. Get 10% off everything with the code: WARSAWINSIDER Muji ul Mysia 3, tel. 502 264 091, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www.muji. com.pl Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store.

Pinko Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4616, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00, Nowy Świat 1, tel. 22 629 1773, open Mon-Sat 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-19:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 22 541 3862, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00, www.pinko.it Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes.

listings / shopping

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Tom Ford, Valentino, Tory Burch, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo.

Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories.

Premiere Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace.

Reykjavik District ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

She’s a Riot ul. Mokotowska 24, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-16:00, shop. shesariot.com A fashion-forward label for grownups – women who hover between a rock-inspired, whimsical twist on a retro Mad Men silhouette.

Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, open Mon & Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

Michał has created a progressive concept store that looks to promote brands that you’d struggle to find here: nat & nin, Denham, Eleven Paris, White Tent and much more besides.

Vintage Store ul. Dobra 56/66 (Level 1, University of Warsaw library), tel. 501 301 742, www. vintagestore.pl Since its inception the store has grown in many ways – now, used brands like Burberry, Barbour, dresses from the ’70s, Hermes scarves, snakeskin handbags, or original Adidas sweaters from the ’60s and ’70s (the owner is an avid collector) are not an uncommon find in the shop.

home 3F Studio ul. Nowolipki 28b, tel. 22 651 5644, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.3fstudio.com.pl Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide. The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients.

A&A Bath ul. Chmielna 12, tel. 883 310 201, open Mon-Fri 12:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00 Inspired by their travels, and appalled at the lack of bath stores in Warsaw, two best friends decided to put their design and business skills to the test and launch A&A Bath. Featuring a New England summer cabin aesthetic, many of the products are designed

Apteka Sztuki Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5, tel. 22 622 0421, open Tue-Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-17:00 Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features collections by up-and-coming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names. The exhibits, which rotate on a monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe (although the focus is on Poland).

Bo Concept ul. Młocińska 5/7, tel. 22 636 7770, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Lovely, clean lines make this one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home.

Coqlila ul. Lentza 20 (Wilanów), tel. 22 651 6884, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-16:00, www.coqlila.pl Home products with a marked provincial French style. Among the offer are fabrics, fragrances, furniture and kitchenware. ego&eco ul. Nowy Świat 35, tel. 22 826 2512, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-17:00, www.egoeco.eu Stocks everything from unique handmade jewellery to pure linen hand towels, traditional honey and organic soaps. Combines style with an eco-philosophy.

OPTYK MOKO 61 put the competition in the shade with a standout collection of exclusive eyewear. Key brands include MYKITA, LINDBERG, BARTON PERREIRA and DITA, though there’s much more besides. Ponder your choice over a coffee and a chat with the staff.

Teresa Rosati Al. Witosa 31 (Panorama), tel. 609 433 343, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00, www.teresarosati.com.pl Elegant cocktail dresses, gowns for special occasions and beautiful fabrics from one of Poland’s bestknown designers. Ready-to-wear and custommade services at discreet location in Sadyba by appointment.

Two Can Play ul. Wilcza 32, two-can-play.com For those who value individuality in fashion owner

by the owners, even so you’ll find imports from Denmark and Sweden as well.

Insider Pick

ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 622 8002, www.moko61.com

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listings / shopping Galeria 2 Deco ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 621 2420, www.2deco. pl A small yet concise collection of brilliant home furnishings that combine the classic with contemporary at fair prices. Special orders and consulting also available.

Magazyn Praga ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), magazynpraga. pl Magazyn Praga pride themselves on bold, original items suited to all kinds of budgets.

Found in the Soho Factory ‘creative complex’, this concept store will reinvent your home.

Makutra ul. Oleandrów 5, tel. 22 825 4084, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00, makutra.com To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware.

MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, tel. 22 360 4389, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.moomo.pl Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm.

Pies Czy Suka ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 8373, piesczysuka.com Husband and wife team Beata Konarska and Paweł Konarski push the boundaries of creativity in a home design store that’s heavy with statement pieces: life sized moldings of animals, illuminated Jesus statues, edgy art, etc.

Red Onion ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339, open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-18:00, www. redonion.pl Their new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget.

Reset ul. Puławska 48, resetpoint.pl A complete treasure trove of goods, including renovated antique furniture, vinyl clocks, 70s style handle-less PRL mugs and modern art prints of legendary landmarks such as Dworzec Centralny. But its not retro specific, with several pieces and curios from upcoming and established domestic and international

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design studios – for instance, animal print cushions by By Nord and lounge furniture by Dino Zoli.

ul. Ciszewskiego 15, tel. 22 389 8600, open Mon-Thur 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.kencenter.pl

Secret Life (of Things) ul. Dąbrowskiego 15A, tel. 600 486 582 or 509 852 617, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.secretlife.pl An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. And it’s the multi-colored tins that greet you at the door, all of them crying out ‘drink me’. Check the prestigious porcelain

by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes.

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl

SH Studio ul. Wilcza 44, s-h-studio.pl Art, interior design and furniture are married together inside a tiny store stacked with beautiful antique and retro pieces that have been refurbished and redesigned to lend them a contemporary edge. An amazing place with surprisingly modest prices.

Take a Nap ul. Mysia 3 This two floor shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. Downstairs there’s a broader selection of bed frames, couches and mattresses.

Velt ul. Próżna 12, www.velt.pl Beautiful familyrun glassware store whose pieces include the Leda lamp, awarded an honorable mention in the prestigious 2012 Red Dot Awards.

malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl Atelier Mokotowska 63 ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 828 6789 Four levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini, Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented. Intimate, discreet and above all luxurious.

Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów)

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. mysia3.pl Hip and high-end department store with units such as NYCity (DKNY, Donna Karan), Berries & Co. (Ice Watch, Triwa, Ike Milano), UEG, My Paris and Take a Nap selling great pieces from both established and upcoming designers.

Targówek (Praga) ul. Głębocka 15, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.atrium-targowek.pl Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega, Yves Saint Laurent, etc…

Wola Park (Wola) ul. Górczewska 124, tel. 22 533-4000, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.wolapark.com Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www. zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.

family activities Barwy Muzyki ul. Niecała 14, tel. 22 188 18 27, www. barwymuzyki.pl This informal music school, with highly qualified teachers experienced in the Colour Strings program, acknowledges not every child will be a professional musician but that playing, listening and singing to music is an asset to their development.

Group or individual lessons on piano, violin, guitar, cello and flute for 6-12yrs.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, www.kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

FREE TIME FOR FREE ART MUSEUM OF MODERN ART (artmuseum.pl/en/muzeum) Whilst city planners bicker over this 1970’s glass fronted building’s listed status, I recommend taking the family to what was previously a furniture shop and getting acquainted with Poland’s contemporary art. The ‘As you can see’ exhibition has been created for a broad audience. Grab the free art cards for kids and watch them interact with quirky installations like the magic carpet, a real Snowman and a rather thoughtful goat. Entrance is free.

FORT BEMOWO 40/40 GALLERY (40bema.blogspot.com) Fort Bema, built 1886/1890, was originally a fortress and later home to German ammunition during WW II. In 2002 the Bemowo district began its redevelopment and declared it a public recreational space. Along with a well-equipped play area and Rope Park it’s brimming with derelict villas and bunkers, one of which houses the 40/40 Gallery. A collaborative project between street and graffiti artists has left it with artwork that will knock your socks off.

PLAC ZABAW / RONDO STANISLAWA SEDLACZKA (facebook.com/ wawaplaczabaw) Agrykola Park in summer becomes one of the coolest hotspots in town and you don’t have to stay up till the wee hours to experience it! Weekend events include markets, DJ’s, hip hop contests, karaoke, food trucks and outdoor films. Don’t forget to take a little tour under the viaduct and marvel at the free street art gallery. Here works by Chazme, Sepe, Maniac and NeSpoon can be spotted. (GBB)

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Cukier Lukier ul. Emilii Plater 10, tel. 605 660 005, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 10:0018:00, www.cukierlukier.pl Confectionary making courses and displays that attract kids of ALL ages.

HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:00-24:00, www.hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools.

Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu.

Little Chef ul. Bałuckiego 30/1, tel. 501 093 691, www.littlechef.pl (visit for more information) Cooking classes for children age 3-16.

Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cookand-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English and Polish, Mon-Sat. Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www. thelittlegym.pl Expect an age specific fitness

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

Fort Bemowo

listings / family curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/ or to visit our school, contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless.

For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel.

22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old. Children at

the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

The British School of Warsaw in Wilanów ul. Hlonda / Ledóchowskiej, tel.

781 988 000, bsww.pl The school is affiliated with University of Cambridge International Examinations which mandates the educational program, qualifications and examinations for pupils up to 19 years of age. Currently admission is offered only to children between 2 and 7 years old (Nursery and Reception, Year 1 levels) for 2014/15. Older children are encouraged to submit application for 2015/16 or 2016/17.

Teatr Lalka Pl. Defilad 1 (Palace of Culture), tel. 22 620 4960 or 22 620 49 50, open Mon-Sat 11:0017.30; Sun 11:00-15:00, www.teatrlalka. waw.pl This puppet theatre stages a variation of productions suitable for children aged 3 +. Scenery, props and costume design are impressive but Polish dialogue is challenging! Losing the plot to Hansel and Gretel can happen - prepare to improvise! Tip: organize a backstage birthday party.

Warsaw Zoo ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. 22 619 4041, open Mon-Sun 9:00-18:00, www.zoo.waw.pl The hippopotami now have an indoor and outdoor pool, the gorillas a new pavilion, and the arrival of a shark means it now has an ‘aquarium’.

Wilanów Golf Driving Range/ Ekberg Golf Academy ul. Vogla 19, tel. 22 424 7083, open Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00, www.golfparkspoland. pl Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. There is a weekly junior hour (5-15yrs), ladies hour and fun mini-golf course.

education preschools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational

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listings / family Buzzy Bee ul. Żołny 16, tel. 22 644 2326, www.buzzybee.pl Polish and English language tuition using the immersion method. Extra-curricular activities include piano, drums, ballet, even Taekwondo.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Unit ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities.

Serving the Warsaw community since 2000, they’re now found on new premises 100m from Mokotów’s Dreszera Park and 300m away from Ogródek Jordanowski. All children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsaw-

montessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.ecole-montessori.pl The preschool is located in the Saska Kępa district and provides a Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 18 months to 6 years old.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:0016.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:15, ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, www.montessoriacademy.eu An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

warsaw montessori school

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to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@ theenglishplayhouse.com.

listings / family Primrose Bilingual Preschool ul. Bernardyńska 16A lok U7, tel. 22 415 8500, primrose.edu.pl Following the ‘immersion’ method, each class has two teachers – one Polish-speaking, the other English. Through this children have all-day contact with different languages, absorbing them in everyday situations. In accordance with the hands-on methodology, children also take part in daily workshops ranging from kitchen science to art and craft classes.

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), open Mon-Fri 7:30-18:30, tel. 517 872 682, www.3languages.pl The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www. aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 600 247 655, www. canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of IB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Primary School ul. Bełska 7, tel.

692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, www. canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.saintexupery.pl Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children aged from 3 to eleven years old in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers.

Kid’s Academy Primary & Pre-School ul. Arbuzowa 33D (Wilanów), tel. 510 077 979 or 603 798 297, open 7:30-18.00, ul. Łąkowa 38 (Konstancin), tel. 506 021 038 or 501 205 080, Open 7:30-17:30, www. kidsacademy.com.pl A Private English - Polish School which provides an excellent early educational program for children from ages 2.5 - 5 years old and at the Primary School, from Grade 0. Combining elements of both the Polish and British curriculum, the focus is on creating a positive and vibrant learning environment. They’re also proud of their large playground and variety of healthy foods. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / family section while your little ones romp in the kids room.

Lycée Français de Varsovie ul. Walecznych 4/6, tel. 22 616 5400, www.lfv.pl. French school admitting students from the age of two years old. All instruction is in French. Languages offered : Polish, English, German, Spanish, Latin. Also, a wide variety of after school activities (sport, arts, extra-curricular instruction).

Vancouver School ul. Globusowa 38, tel.

887 808 266, vancouverschools.pl The teaching system here combines the best practices and aspects of the Polish and Canadian education systems, with daily classes in English conducted in accordance with the proven method of ‘immersion’ using modern Canadian and British materials.

cafes Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, tel. 512 939 001, open Mon-Sat 10.30-19:00, Sun 11:00-19:00, www.figazmakiem.edu.pl One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys

Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, tel. 692 448 112, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00, www.fikumikucafe.pl This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children. The focus is on films and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties.

Kolonia ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 661 064 944 or 605 084 804, open 9:00-20:00, www.kolonia-ochota.pl Not just an excellent cafe, Kolonia is aslo equipped with a garden/ playground. Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials and a staff that always welcomes you with a smile.

Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561 or 502 683 246, open 10:00-20:00. www.kredkafe. pl The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows.

Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space.

Peek-a-boo ul. Karola Chodkiewicza 7, tel. 22 370 21 71, open Mon-Sun 10:00-20:00 The pale palette and plush velvet upholstered furniture might not be the first choice of fabrics around sticky, chocolaty paws but every mummy needs a bit of luxury from time-to-time. The café divides its limited square meters evenly between parent and child expectations, creating space to relax, eat and play in: however, the gigantic doll’s house does suggest Barbie got the best deal.

shops Bimbus ul. Wilcza 69, tel. 22 628 5140, open 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-14:00. www.bimbus.com. pl Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, and Theophile & Patachou.

Endo www.endo.pl Endo is the original home of quality children’s wear that embraced great design by Polish artists and accompanied with Polish slogans. Much of the materials used are organic, hardwearing and wash well.

Mimbla ul.Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 3065, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00.

Exclusively for kids on Warsaw’s most exclusive shopping street it’s an Aladdin’s cave of quality toys and Polish/English books. Get your gift wrapped here and both mum and child will be happy even before opening it.

Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel.

22 713 8275, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. www.pieluszkarnia.pl This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and Martello blankets personalized for births etc.

Smyk Multiple stores, tel. 22 462 7250, www. smyk.pl Smyk is Poland’s answer to Mothercare; from bottle sterilizing kits to pencil cases, early learning toys to Disney classics and a wide range of seasonal clothing, this store will take you from childbirth to high school!

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health & beauty gyms Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning.

WHEEL DEALS: BIKE STORES BIKEMAN (Al. Wyzwolenia 14, bikeman.pl) On-road, x-road and off-road bikes, with brands including Alpina, Burley, Ergon and Giant. Accessories include helmets, gloves, backpacks plus everything you need to revive your bike if it passes out.

GALERIA SZTUKI ROWEROWEJ (ul. Widok 10) Glorious bikes, many of them vintage, and many of them in colors that’ll make you the talk of the town. Not just affordable prices, they also promise to fix your bike for free should it suddenly conk out.

KETTLER (ul. Okopowa 56, pl.kettler.net) The world-renowned Kettler brand brings the full extent of their offer to Warsaw. On the bike front that means mountain bikes, city and their innovative e-bikes. This being Kettler, find also numerous other products to contribute to your active lifestyle.

PLUMBIKE (ul. Puławska 67/69, plumbike.eu) More of a bike boutique than a standard old bike store. Assembled by hand by the Plumbike team, the models here are beautiful, and range from choppers to cruisers in eye-catching colors.

WYGODNY ROWER (Various locations, wygodnyrower.pl) Bike store and service center chain dealing with city bikes, fixed gear, single speed and road bikes. A huge range of bikes, running from Abus to Zefal via manufacturers such as Pashley, Fuji and Adriatica.

Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premier ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland.

Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premier’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3, tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit. com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 379 7777, open Mon-Fri 6:00-22:30; Sat 8:00-22:30; Sun 8:00-21:00, www.jatomifitness.pl The largest and fastest growing fitness chain in Poland currently has 35 locations and 117,000 members across the country. All clubs have new generation of machines, innovative forms of group activities (Booiaka, Hot Yoga, Pure Pump, Pure Fire and Wah Gwan Dancehall) and professional personal trainers schooled in nutrition and the healthy lifestyle.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Zodiak ul. Widok 26, tel. 22 100 3400, open 24hrs, www.jatomifitness.pl Poland’s fastest growing fitness chain has been recognized for excellence after being named SCF Leisure & Fitness Retailer of the Year 2014. Other Pure Jatomi clubs in Warsaw include: Blue City, Galeria Renova, Sadyba Best Mall, Promenada and Targówek.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

dental clinics ArtDental ul. Łucka 18, tel. 22 654 3006, artdental.pl Well-known among expats, ArtDental’s service is widely praised for its honest service and moderate prices. English speaking and moderately priced.

Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

DeClinic ul. Bernardyńska 16A, tel. 22 112 0400, declinic.pl Regarded as one of the most modern clinics in Europe, amongst other innovations DeClinic have swapped the traditional drilling process in favor of abrasive sandblaster – perfect for kids or those afraid of the dentist.

DentaLux ul. Racławicka 31 & Puławska 257, tel. 22 787 878, dentalux.pl Englishspeaking service available, as well as 24hr emergency consultations.

EuroDental Various locations, tel. 22 380 7000, eurodental.pl English-speaking dentists on

request. Lacking the ‘boutique’ charm of some of Warsaw’s more modish clinics, the service here is both efficient and moderately priced.

Elektoralna Dental Clinic ul. Elektoralna 28, tel. 22 620 2140, elektoralna.pl State-of-the-art dental clinic featuring Poland’s first dental tomograph.

Languages spoken include English, German, Spanish and Arabic.

Odent ul. Nowoursynowska 145E (entry from ul.

Rosoła) & ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 405 4430, odent.pl Dubbed ‘the clinic with a heart’, Odent’s personal approach is complimented by expert staff and the latest and most advanced treatments and equipment.

English-speaking service also available.

medical clinics Damian Medical Center Various locations, see website for details: damian.pl Established in 1994, Damian offer a wide range of medical services in their hospital and five outpatient clinics. English spoken widely.

Ren Clinic Al. Gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok.

12A, tel. 22 414 2222 or 501 126 108, www.renclinic.pl Surgical care, cosmetics, medical dermatology, aesthetic medicine and more.

Lux Med Medical Clinics Various locations, see website for details: www.luxmed.pl Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of membership schemes for both private and corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district.

DAILY GUIDED TOURS IN ENGLISH WWW.SEGWAYCITYTOURS.PL Booking +48 600 310 320

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Melitus ul. Słowackiego 12, tel. 22 833 7438, mob.

603 060 621, www.melitus.pl Specializing in dermatology, surgery, phlebology, endocrinology, gynecology and internal medicine.

The clinic is equipped with the latest and most innovative medical equipment and employs several renowned clinicians.

listings / health & beauty Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress and much more besides.

Warszawskie Centrum Zdrowia ul. Nowogrodzka 76, tel. 22 857 3014, www.wcz.waw.pl Specializes in the prevention, early detection and treatment of cardiovascular disease.

spas & salons Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.”

you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel, level -1), tel.

22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing expert staff and top-quality products.

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-last guest, www.haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. Also on Elektoralna 24.

La Perla multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla.pl Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. For summer the right spa/salon/clinic is key. La Perla’s all three in one!

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160 or 784 677 618, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-15:00, www.bodyclinic.pl Thorough

Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-16:00.

This little island of peace and beauty takes

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 6290, pardonmyfrench.pl The equipment here is state-of-the art, particularly the massage chairs for indulgent pedicures. While gel tips and all that hybrid stuff is all the rage now, it might be more prudent to get a classic mani/pedi to avoid beauty emergencies when you’re drifting in the middle of the Mediterranean on P. Diddy’s yacht.

Spearside ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 789 109 119, spearside.pl Warsaw’s premier male spa / salon offers massage, manicure, scrubs, physiotherapy and a range of treatments aimed at improving your ‘quality of life’. Hair and grooming solutions are provided by Maciej, a barber of exceptional talent.

Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 517 012 880, www. spasungate.pl A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments, manicure and pedicure, as well as a VIP room for couples.

You & You Maciej Wróblewski ul. Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), tel. 606 994 226, youandyou.eu Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and

Odent was established to ensure the highest level of service on the dental map of Warsaw. We offer flexible hours, cutting edge technology and two branches in convenient locations in Żoliborz and Ursynów.

Scope of services: • Orthodontics • Teeth Whitening • Cutting-edge prosthetics

• Dental surgery and maxillofacial implants • Conservative treatment, cosmetic dentistry

• Treatment of children • Root canal treatment of teeth using traditional microscopic • X-ray lab

Żoliborz: ul. Duchnicka 3 bud.4, entrance A • Ursynów: Nowoursynowska 145 E (entrance from ul. Rosoła), www.odent.pl, tel. 22 405 44 30

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listings / health & beauty his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of.

external courts, three squash courts, a 25 meter swimming pool plus spa and gym facilities.

sport

Squash City Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (Blue City), tel. 22 499 6466, squashcity.pl Considered one of the top squash clubs in the country, Squash City covers an area of 1,000 sq/m, with six air-conditioned courts, shop, bar, etc.

BGZ Arena / Velodrome ul. Andrzeja 1 (Pruszków), tel. 22 738 8394, bgzarena.com Bring a cycling helmet and you too can take a spin around the velodrome in Pruszków. Bike hire possible, with spins priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. For further details enquire directly.

Centrum Golf – Sklep & Symulatory Golfowe ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 22 428 88 84, 2golf.pl A great way to introduce yourself to the game, Centrum Golf offers HDGolf simulators that will take you to the world’s most famous gold courses. The center is home to the only open golf league in the country.

First Warsaw Golf & Country Club ul. Golfowa (Jabłonna), tel. 22 782 4555, firstwarsawgolf.com Found 25 kiometers from Warsaw, this golf club features a par 71, 18-hole championships golf course, all year driving range, club house and a stunning backdrop to which to enjoy it all.

Frogs & Co. warsawfrogs.com While it originated as an expat team, Warsaw’s only social rugby club welcomes all: supporters, players, young, old, men and women. The rugby is taken seriously, and so too is the social side.

Warsaw Cricket Club ul. Romatyczna 3 (Panorama Country Club), warsawcricketclub.pl The oldest cricket club in the country is mainly comprised of Brits, Poles and South Asians. New members and supporters are welcomed – for details check their website.

Warsaw International Triathlon Club warsawtriclub.com Serving the needs of the athletic community, the WITC is open to all interested in the disciplines of swimming, cycling and running.

swimming Holmes Place Premier ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, holmesplace. pl All the ‘premier’ outposts of Holmes Place tout swimming pools, though most agree it is the one in the Hilton branch that’s the best.

Enquire direct about membership fees.

Golf Parks Poland ul. Vogla 19, www.golfparkspoland.pl. Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish.

Private Coaching Tel. 512 517 013, anthonypst.wix.com/ anthonypst Ozzie Anthony offers one-onone swimming classes conducted at your venue of choice. Fully qualified, he offers tailor-made lessons for all ages and all levels of proficiency: from total beginners to competitive swimmers.

Hash House Harriers Billing themselves as ‘the drinking club with a running problem’, the Warsaw chapter of the Hash House Harriers meets every couple of weeks and welcomes runners and walkers of every level. Search for them on Facebook for further details.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel.

22 328 86 40, riverview.com.pl Another members only pool, and this one is really worth the membership cost – it’s the highest pool in Europe. Stunning views of Warsaw make this a swim to remember.

Sinnet Club ul. Gołkowska 2, tel. 22 550 3400, www. sinnet.pl An exclusive members sport club featuring full-size indoor tennis courts, two

Saski Brzeg ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 732 707 707, saskibrzeg.pl This lot have summer nailed: a series of outdoor pools, an artificial beach,

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Brazilian grill and a lively bar scene. A must when the heatwave settles.

Wawa Wake Wspólna (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

662 115 740, wwawwake.pl Quite a place – wakeboarding galore at a venue that also boasts a beach bar, board shop, a ‘stand up paddle center’ and a wake park.

Wodny Park ul. Merliniego 4, tel. 22 854 0130, wodnypark.com.pl When looking for a pool, most look no further: on-site find an Olympic swimming pool, recreational pool complete with artificial river, slides and tubes, a Russian ‘banya’ zone, not to mention other attractions like bowling and squash courts.

yoga & pilates Astanga Yoga Studio ul. Gałczyńskiego 4, tel. 22 465 8810, astanga.pl Established in 2005, this studio specializes in ashtanga and also offers physiotherapy, Hawaiian massage, reflexology and kalari chikitsa.

Bikram Yoga Al. Jana Pawła II 61 lok. 305, tel.

888 204 020, www.bikram.pl A new, modern studio equipped with lockers, showers and the requisite hot room. Practitioners of all levels – from newbie to old hand – are welcome.

Padma Studio ul. Wilcza 32/100, tel. 22 625 1217, padmastudio.pl A 60 sq/m studio offering classes in dynamic yoga, Afro Latin dance, Samba, Tai Chi and body / mind awareness.

Pilates (Private Classes) Tel. 608 499 666. A private studio in Wilanów with classes for one to four people that guarantee 100% attention from Laura, your instructor.

Yoga Republic ul. Śniadeckich 18 lok. 1, tel. 790 805 853, www.yogarepublic.pl This studio combines the old school with the new, plus a nice dash of prewar charm with a touch of the east.

Yoga Republic offers classes for pregnant women in addition to a full schedule of four other types of yoga to suit experience and expectations (Mysore, Ashtanga, Vinyasa and Beginner’s).

in the city 11:10

a.m.

It’s all go at Targ Śniadaniowy. This open air spot is a bit of everything: a food market, picnic, even a place to get your bike fixed. Most of all, it’s a 1,000 volt start to your Saturday morning.

JUST A PERFECT DAY

Take 24hrs and a small section of the city and the Insider brings you a perfect day in... Żoliborz

I

’m definitely not a morning person, so the thing I like about Targ Śniadaniowy (Al. Wojska Polskiego 1) is that it’s a little more than the breakfast market it modestly bills itself as. Business usually winds down around 4 p.m., and even I can wake up for that. That said, it’s worth getting there considerably before then. With around 35,000 Facebook likes you can imagine it does get busy and choice does diminish. There’s also a chance I’m preaching to the converted, but yeah, it really is something with umpteen stalls and sellers trading fresh produce as well as food to eat onsite. As a jumpstart to the day it comes highly recommended.

It’s nice to linger a little around Żoliborz. I’ve heard it described as ‘a city within a city’ and I find that pretty apt. There’s a buzzing café culture that’s best evidenced by the existence of places like Fawory (ul. Mickiewicza 21). I’m there frequently, usually pretending to read but actually listening in to the table next to me. With all the gossip to consider it’s nice to just amble through the streets of Old Żoliborz afterwards. I love the architecture, the neat inter-war housing estates and the larger private villas: it’s nothing like grimy downtown Warsaw.

And there’s bits for the history nerd as well – with the anniversary of the Uprising falling this issue, stop by the former boiler house at Suzina 8: that’s where the first shots were fired.

For dinner, I suggest Dom (ul. Mierosławskiego 12) which is one of those places that has embraced concepts of natural and organic. The back garden is what summer is all about. Though you could say the same about Boogaloo Beach Bar (Wybrzeże Gdynskie 2), a place that’s all lairy Hawaiian style and token tiki décor. At night it becomes one big party, the kind of place where you end up waving your shirt over your head.

2:20

p.m.

9:15

p.m.

Remarkable Fawory ticks boxes for its original design and creative sandwiches. But it’s the atmosphere that drags me back. Take a seat, flick open a book and put your life on pause for a bit. Wonderful.

Party time! Boogaloo has two roles: a chill down place for the afternoon and a hold-onto-your-hats party zone at night. And the grill food is worth sticking around for whatever time of day.

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listings / in the city for vistors accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique Apartments ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com

44 11 482, www.hilton.com

www.sheraton.pl

Hotel Regent Warsaw ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw-hotel.pl

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www.mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl

Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800

Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100,

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl

MEDIA PATRONAGE TRANSATLANTYK FESTIVAL August 9-14, Various locations in Poznań, transatlantyk.org/en

Founded in 2011 by Oscar-winning composer Jan A.P. Kaczmarek, Transatlantyk presents a program of cinema and music while retaining a focus on ‘dialogue and discovery’. Highlights this year include the Nick Cave documentary 20,000 Days on Earth and the Palestinian thriller Omar. The festival also stands out for its ‘instant composer prize’ which challenges young talents to improvise a music piece after watching a short film for the first time. There’s zł. 30,000 for the winner.

TWO NIGHTS WITH FENNESH

August 19 & 20 Pardon, To Tu, Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, www.pardontotu.pl Austrian-born Christian Fennesz, more commonly known simply as Fennesz, blurs musical lines. As a guitarist he blends multilayered pieces with the aid of his laptop, in the process creating beautiful sounds that muddle melodies with blippy, other-worldly sounds. Having previously collaborated with Sparklehorse, David Sylvian, Mike Patton and Ryuichi Sakamoto this is a musician of quite some pedigree. For ticket details check Pardon, To Tu’s website closer to the event.

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listings / in the city Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com

3-Star Hotels

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, www.hiexpress.com Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000 Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl Hotel Reytan ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc.

MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

B&B

Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 www.between-us.eu Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800,

www.bedandbreakfast.pl

Vision Apartments Al. Jerozolimskie 81/22, tel. 22 292 8888, www.visionapartments.eu Founded in Switzerland, Vision specialize in the rental of high quality furnished apartments.

ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com Besto Relocations ul. Kłobucka 8 /127B, tel. 22 847 8878, www.bestorelocations.com

car rental

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com

Avis tel. 22 572 6565, Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl

DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/28, tel. 22 670 4280 or 502 216 606 www.duxconsulting.com.pl

Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel.

22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul.

Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360.

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, Trust Rent a Car ul. Marynarska 14, tel. 22 843 0580, www.trustrentacar.pl

useful numbers Foreign Assistance Tel. 608 599 999 / 22 278 7777 Information in English, German and Russian available from June 1st to September 30th from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. seven days a week.

Tourist Information ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (airport), Rynek Starego Miasto 19/21/21A, Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel.

22 194 31, warsawtour.pl

for residents relocation companies Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers

Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3535, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, www.interdean.com Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

polish for foreigners Edu & More ul. Nowogrodzka 44 / 7, tel. 22 622 14 41, www.polishonlinenow.com Polish Language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable prices. Intensive & regular Polish courses for beginners.

Business & everyday Polish. Preparatory courses for the state exam as well as for the international ECL certificate in Polish.

Morning, afternoon & evening classes.

Frog ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, tel. 22 403 7872 or 517 459 418, www.frog.org.pl Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / in the city ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish.

Klub Dialogu Gałczyńskiego 4, lok 903, tel. 664 788 004, www.klubdialogu.pl Individual and group courses held either on-site or at the venue of your choice. Tailor-made packages inc. both intensive and weekend courses.

community International Christian Fellowship ul. Puławska 326, icfwarsaw.org Interdenominational services in English (10:30am, Sunday). Facilities, programs and community activities for all ages: children, students and adults.

InterNations www.internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town.

International Women’s Group of Warsaw iwgwarsaw.eu Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are held on the second and fourth Monday of the month.

Professionals in Warsaw meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted

by Professionals in Warsaw. Natives and foreigners of all backgrounds and professions are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. Search for them on facebook.

St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year.

Taste of the Classics www.fnok.pl A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations.

The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English.

Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine.

Toastmasters International www.toastmasters.org.pl Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00.

Guests are always welcome without any

CITY INSIGHT

obligation apart from a short introduction.

museums & galleries Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel. 22 758 5067, www.muzuem-motorzyacji.com. pl What looks like a cemetery of rust and a tangle of exhaust pipes unravels into Warsaw’s most underrated museum. Find vehicles of every description: Lech Wałesa’s Volvo (with 7cm bullet-proof windows), Gomułka’s ZIS limo, German wartime armor and a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark – the type favored by Elvis and Marilyn. It’s incredible in its peculiarity, with the random layout, oily smells and dark, cobwebbed corners only adding to the sense of treading somewhere special.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www.kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists

When Fanny Vaucher relocated from Switzerland to Warsaw she arrived with a game plan: “to understand the city, to become attached to it, to form a relationship with it, to love it.” Her remarkable book Pilules Polonaises (Polish Pills) is the result of that; a beautifully sensitive paean to the oddities of Warsaw life. Accompanied by witty illustrations, the book faces the weird little questions we’ve all asked at some point: what makes all the old ladies so angry? Why don’t cashiers have change? And what’s with all the dubbing?

Whimsical and original, it does more to lay Warsaw’s secrets bare than any guidebook you’ll find. Buy it for zł. 35 at cult bookshops such as Fundacja Bęc Zmiana.

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listings / in the city from all over the world (Edward Dwurnik, Jenny Holzer, Annie Leibovitz, Wilhelm Sasnal, Andy Warhol). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals.

Ongoing till August 31: Nightmares. A broad presentation of the works of Grzegorz Drosz – from sculpture and paintings to plants and video installations. Expect a marble owl with laser eyes, hallucinogenic plants and other weirdness!

lock of hair and even his death mask.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion.

Ongoing till August 31: Three Times in Poland. American photographer John Vachon visited Poland in 1946, 1956 and 1963, and this exhibition of his photographs provides a fascinating insight into a country struggling to come to terms with the fallout of war and its new social order.

Jewish Historical Institute ul. Tłomackie 3/5, www.jhi.pl Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains art work, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past.

The Heritage Interpretation Center ul. Brzozowa 11-13, www.mhw.pl Beginning with a gigantic tapestry of Warsaw circa 1873, this little-known venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction. Walking over a glass floor, beneath which lies smashed masonry and columns recovered from the ruins, a series of then-and-now slides and pictures document Old Town’s annihilation.

If the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed.

Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, www.niewidzialna.pl Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar.

August this museum includes paintings and furniture from one of the most glorious periods in Poland’s history as well as temporary exhibitions of more modern work.

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight).

Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 70’s super star Kazimierz Deyna.

Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, www.krolikarnia.mnw. art.pl Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum as well as more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska.

Museum of the Blessed Father Jerzy Popieluszko ul. Hozjusza 2, www.popieluszko.pl A museum in the basement of the church relates the story of Jerzy Popiełuszko, the Solidarity priest murdered by the communist security forces. Even his family cradle is here. But things take a darker twist, and having crept past a militia baton and a pair of handcuffs visitors suddenly find themselves in a shadowy room beaming shots of his brutally beaten corpse. In lieu of anything else, it’s the closest Warsaw has to a museum of communism.

Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, www.lazienki-krolewskie. pl Situated in the picturesque park which once housed the residence of King Stanisław

Museum of Communist Life ul. Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), tel.

606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide

THE ROYAL CASTLE in Warsaw

Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.mhw. pl The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film that details the depressing story behind the destruction of Warsaw.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s last piano, a

Plac Zamkowy 4 tel. (+48 22) 35 55 170 www.zamek-krolewski.pl informacja@zamek-krolewski.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / in the city company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. A must!

Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6. Slated to open in the coming months, this hugely impressive museum is already luring streams of onlookers eager to preview the temporary exhibits housed in the opening halls. Ongoing: Biographies of Things. A temporary display of items donated to the museum, among them toys, artwork, photos, religious items and everyday articles like travel trunks and clothing.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Miroslaw Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski. Ongoing: As You Can See – Polish Art Today. The most ‘up-to-date’ collection of Polish modern art to date, will apparently be, “critical, liberating, psychedelic, often brutal and perverse, dense and ambiguous.”

Ongoing till Sept 14: In the Near Future.

Works from 47 artists demonstrating the social changes that occurred after 1989.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl Following a maze-like route in the Palace of Culture, there’s curios aplenty: a Viennese calculator dating from 1898 that’s still in working order; a glowing ‘glass lady’ that lights up to demonstrate the inner workings of the body; communist era sports cars; a WWII Enigma machine. More pertinent to the younger generation, there’s a selection of vintage phones and laptop computers that hipsters would give their life for, not to mention hilarious TVs from days of yore.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc.

Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

Ongoing till August 10: Aleksander Gierymski

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1850-1901. The works brought together for this event comprise almost the entirety of Gierymski’s surviving oeuvre – approximately 120 paintings and oil sketches, 66 drawings, and one sketchbook.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www. neonmuzeum.org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26. What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation.

Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www.postermuseum.pl With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol.

Railway Museum ul. Towarowa 1, www.muzkol.pl Presented in scale model form, in here find hundreds of trains detailing the development of the Polish rail network. Not interested? Then maybe the three model railway villages will stir childhood memories or how about learning about WARS – Polish rail’s buffet division? Outside, stroll around a remarkable collection of beasts outside. These include a 1942 German armored train – apparently the only one of its type surviving in Europe – not to mention the personal carriage of Bolesław Bierut (Poland’s post-war leader), the rusting carcass of a 60s train and interwar steam engines straight out

of Thomas the Tank Engine.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising. Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower.

Wola Museum ul. Srebrna 12, www.mhw.pl An unexpectedly amazing museum that’s been turned around thanks to its ambitious, young staff. Once a dank, dusty space, the reinvention includes ‘the room of one object’, its single exhibit being a 1930s sugar bowl by Julia Keilowa. In keeping with this year’s theme of modernity, it is almost space age in design. There’s the New Varsovians exhibit, dedicated to the young students who arrived to Warsaw in the 1860s and 70s, and the Wola Laboratory, a multimedia exhibition with a focus on the district. All this new wave gadgetry is to be augmented by real objects on the first floor, not to mention an archive of amateur film – the first such archive in Poland Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art. pl Featuring in the collection are works

by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera. Ongoing until Aug 31: Anemona Crisan: Installation for the Interior.

Ongoing: Monument. The Architecture of Adolf Szyszko Bohusz. Considered one of the most important architects of Poland’s Second Republic, this exhibition explores themes of mythmaking via architecture, the quest for style forms and the use of modernism as ‘style dressing’ for the political regime.

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BAR SPY

Expat Confidential Our earwigging bar spy returns with more tall tales of expat woe overheard in the bars and clubs of the capital city…

“Got invited to a fancy dress party last Christmas in Poznań.

Decided, rather than a hotel, I’d get one of these private hire apartments – it was great: lovely views of the Rynek and everything else you’d want. So I go off in the night dressed as a Mexican bandit and have a brilliant night out.

Get back to the flat but can’t open the main door on street

104 Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2014

level – it won’t budge. So there I am dressed in a poncho and sombrero while snow forms in great big heaps around me. Eventually, I’m hit by a brainwave: call the owner. I give him a right ear bashing – what sort of plonker rents a flat that you can’t get into, etc. – to which he answers in a gentle voice, ‘have you tried pulling the door, not pushing?’

I go bonkers at this, and start effing and blinding at his patronizing tone. Only then do I realize, oh, yeah, the door does pull open.”

“I got home after a heavy night only to realize I’d lost my keys. Damn. Anyway, I live on the ground floor of one of these posh new developments in Mokotów so went round the back and saw I’d left a window wide open. Great. I scale the fence, commando style, and pop through the window, creep through the flat careful not to wake up the wife. I tiptoe into the spare room relieved I’ve finally made it in only to realize there’s bloody Spiderman posters on the walls – oh God, I realize, I’ve climbed into next door’s flat and am in their boy’s room. Blimey, I was out faster than a greased weasel. They don’t have a clue, thankfully.”

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

“Years ago I was working for a five star hotel in Warsaw – one of the big, famous chains. We’d decided to upgrade the TVs from the big boxy ones you used to get to the plasma screens that had just come on the market. Anyway, one day this truck pulls up and a couple of guys with overalls and clipboards get out and explain they’re here to collect the old TVs. We let them get on with it, and then at the end of the day, with over 200 TVs packed into their lorry, they say cheers and that they’ll be back tomorrow with the new ones. We’re getting impatient for them to turn up the next day so ring up the firm and say, ‘hey, what’s up, where are you’. ‘Check your records,’ they reply, ‘we’re not due till the weekend’. Slowly, it dawns on us we’ve been scammed by a proper operation that’d had an inside tip.”