Warsaw Insider December 2013 # 208

Top 8 Best of Warsaw

Best Polish & Ethnic

page 19

Warsaw

page 30

Best of Warsaw 2013

Rest of the Best page 32

December 12 price zł.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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2013

(VAT 8% included)

Moliera 2, Warszawa tel.: +48 228277099, www.moliera2.com

to our readers

DECEMBER 2013

ALL EYES ARE ON WARSAW

W

ell, what a November that was – it started all golden and glorious, and finished everything but. Largely, that’s attributable not to the onset of winter, but several thousand boneheads who transported Poland back to the dark ages. The rioting that marred Poland’s Independence Day celebrations made world news, with the rumbling nationalist horde opting to smash up their capital and generally act like Vikings.

But for all the huffing and puffing, finger pointing and hand wringing, one gets the idea many of these thugs were motivated not by blind hatred and extremist rhetoric, but by the fleeting thrill of acting out bad ass hooligan fantasies. Below the uniform of black tracksuits and balaclavas, you’d have largely found sallow faced teens from the back-of-beyond. Questioned as to their political leanings, the majority would no doubt stare back blankly and deliver a shrug. Furthermore, the civil unrest rallied Warsaw in a way that couldn’t have been imagined. In the aftermath of the trouble, a series of counter demonstrations took place; people usually silent on such issues were moved to express their dismay at events. From disaster, came hope.

There is, of course, other cause to celebrate. Following a frantic finish, the Insider is buzzing to present the most anticipated issue of our annual calendar: our Best of Warsaw awards. Now it is often said that the evolution of Warsaw can be measured by her food and drink sector. This being the case, it’s been a year to remember. Poland’s first Michelin star was greeted with something approaching hysteria, and that’s not been the only triumph over the last 12 months.

Late last year René Redzepi, the creator of Copenhagen’s Noma, surmised a press trip to Poland as such: “we were amazed by what we saw, but first and foremost by what we ate… I really believe that contemporary Polish cuisine can obtain the same worldwide success as the New Nordic Kitchen.” Seen as something of a culinary visionary, his words demonstrated the growing respect afforded to Poland, not to say the excitement that’s building in the F&B quarter. But the really good bit? Next year, it’s going to get even better.

See you next month, and have a grand December.

Alex Webber

awebber@valkea.com

www.warsawinsider.pl

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Officially recognized as Poland’s premier Englishlanguage magazine, the Insider is delighted to announce the launch of its new look website. Designed to reflect the nature of a dynamic and energizing capital, the Online Insider sails you through one of Europe’s most exciting cities. In a fast evolving city, the Online Insider opens the door to Warsaw’s secrets, stories and latest scoops. Don’t let Warsaw leave you behind: • Full restaurant, nightlife, café and shopping listings • In-depth picks, past and present • Features

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It’s our best Best of issue to date. Celebrating Warsaw’s increasingly refined palate, we’ve got a Gatsby inspired cover to act in sync with our Best of Warsaw Food & Drink issue.

• Calendar • City Search • Blog • Newsletter blasts

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

THE ONLINE INSIDER

on the cover

MONCLER RALPH LAUREN SALVATORE FERRAGAMO TOD’S TORY BURCH

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com

what’s inside

DECEMBER 2013

Kaskrut wins for Best Casual Dining

LISTINGS

Culture

Neighborhoods

Restaurants

Cafes & Wine Bars

Nightlife

Shopping

Children

Lifestyle

09 Opener Watch Docs 09 Calendar Music, art and events around town 12 Museums

Listings 37 A Day in the Life

Spoco Loco 41 Insider’s Pick Ave Pizza 58 Insider’s Pick Pestka Organic Bistro

69 Insider’s Pick

Cześć

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73 Insider’s Pick

Piw Paw

FEATURES

BESTOF WARSAW 2013

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Best of Warsaw The Warsaw Insider’s Annual Food & Drink Awards

30 Best Polish

The cream of the local scene 31 Best Ethnic

Top international fare in Warsaw

Editor-in-chief

Art Director

Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

32 Rest of the Best

Restaurants and Bars that have made

an impression in 2013

INfront

83 Insider’s Pick

Targ Śniadaniowy

15 News in Brief

Feelings run high at Warsaw’s annual

riot, media star in mystery attack, neon

cheat exposed and much, much more...

40 Warsaw Foodie

Latest from the blog frontline

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Agata Torańska atoranska@valkea.com Agnieszka Kuczyńska akuczynska@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Iza Depczyk Karolina Kalinowska Michał Miszkurka Paula Rewald Christian Swindells Ed Wight

79 Insider’s Pick

Red Poppy

87 Insider’s Pick

Between Us Bed &

Breakfast 94 Warsaw Map 96 Classifieds

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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2013 Warsaw Insider.

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

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Interview: Watch Docs Film Festival 9

CULTURE

for more events visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

EVENTS 9 / MUSEUMS 12

EVENTS THIS MONTH

Insider’s Pick

Ongoing until 21 FESTIVAL

13. Międzynarodowy Festiwal Filmowy

55th International Jazz Jamboree Festival Various locations For the 55th year running, winter in Warsaw is warmed with the sound of jazz from artists hailing from Poland, Lithuania and the US. Don’t miss the United States of Beta on the 2nd of December.

Also accompanied by a photo exhibition of Marek Karewicz, This is Jazz. Tickets from zł. 60 from eBilet.pl.

WATCH DOCS Prawa Człowieka w Filmie

Warszawa, 6 - 12 grudnia 2013 bilety bezpłatne

www.watchdocs.pl

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CONCERT Andrzej Piaseczny 18:00, Sala Kongresowa, pl. Defilad 1 Promoting his latest winterthemed disc, the Polish heartthrob will be bringing the magic of Christmas with moving lyrics and gorgeous melodies.

The music for the tracks was written by one of the most prominent contemporary composers, Seweryn Krajewski, and is full of soaring brass, string and acoustic sets. Tickets from zł. 65. For further info see kongresowa.pl

Top: My Afghanistan - Life in the Forbidden Zone, Director, Nagieb Khaja Bottom: Amazing Azerbaijan. Director, Liz Mermin

FESTIVAL

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

WATCH DOCS – Human Rights in Film Dec 6 to Dec 12

O

ne of the oldest festivals of its kind in Europe this movie event aims to draw attention to human right issues from across the globe. Highlights of the 13th WATCH DOCS festival include a retrospective of Maria Ramos, with six of her films being screened. Among these will be her latest effort, Hill of Pleasures, a powerful documentary about how the authorities are trying to regain control over the favelas of Rio de Janeiro. Numerous other films will be competing for the WATCH DOCS award, and these include Our Nixon, a montage of amateur archival footage recorded by Nixon’s closest associates; No Burqas Behind Bars, a harrowing look at how Afghan women manage to only find freedom behind bars; and Salma, the story of a Muslim woman who after 25 years of confinement maps her way to freedom via poetry.

As always, the one week festival will also include such regular sections as I Want to See, an overview of human rights films, Discreet Charm of Propaganda, which illustrates the role of film in political indoctrination, and New Polish Films which will debut the latest crop of Polish documentaries. Also, expect plenty of discussions and workshops hosted by film-makers, NGO activists, journalists, politicians and assorted experts. Screenings will take place at Kino Muranów, CSW Ujazdowski Castle, and the Museum of Anthropology. Admission to all events is free. For further details see: watchdocs.pl

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CONCERT Michael “Patches” Stewart 19:30, Klub Hybrydy, Złota 7/9 It is hard to describe Stewart in any other way than as a contem-

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CULTURE 3

CONCERT Brit Floyd 19:00, Sala Kongresowa, pl.

Defilad 1 Yet another tribute band comes to Warsaw but this time, Brit Floyd brings with it a new, threehour-long, spectacle: P-U-L-S-E 2013 (The Pink Floyd Ultimate Light and Sound Experience) that encompasses works from the five most celebrated PF albums.

With rave reviews around the world, this tribute show is not to be missed by fans of the Floyd.

Tickets from zł. 132. For further info see kongresowa.pl

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Water. Tickets zł 30.

Destroyer 19:00, Skwer, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 60A A Canadian formation led by Dan Bejar with a sound that has been compared to David Bowie and Pavement. This is the only chance to see Bejar performing a cross section of Destroyer’s oeuvre solo and acoustically.

Tickets from zł. 49 from eBilet.pl and ticketpro.pl

CONCERT

CONCERT

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CONCERT Italian Masters – Fridays at the Łazienki Królewskie Palace on the Water, Łazienki Królewskie The genius of two Italian masters – Respighi and Verdi – will be brought to life by the Warsaw Chamber Opera in the enchanting setting of the Palace on the

Media Patronage

Jazzanova feat. Paul Randolph 20:00, Centralny Basen Artystyczny, ul. Konopnickiej 6 A Berlin DJ-producer/nu jazz collective fascinated with dance beats mashed up with 60s and 70s sounds. For the first time after touring the world as DJs they formed a live set with singers and will be presenting their Funkhaus Studio Sessions album. Tickets from zł. 80.

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CONCERT Woodkid 20:00, Arena Ursynów, ul. Pileckiego 122 Critically acclaimed as the biggest discovery of the French music scene, Woodkid is at once a singer, producer, performer and director. Famed for producing music videos for the likes of Rihanna and Lana Del Rey, he is just as talented a music artist and will be presenting his first album The Golden Age. Tickets from zł. 125 from eBilet.pl and ticketpro.pl.

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CONCERT

December 11 Joe McPhee Survival Unit 3 Pardon To Tu, Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, www.pardontotu.pl D escribed as a multi-instrumentalist, composer, improviser, conceptualist and theoretician, Miami-born saxophonist Joe McPhee plays in Pardon To Tu this December alongside Michael Zerang (drums) and Fred Longberg-Holm (cello). This promises to be a night to remember, with Time Out New York once moved to declare McPhee’s “magical take on avant-garde sax remains one of the wonders of the scene.”

Tickets from zł. 30.

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

Glenn Miller Orchestra 19:00, Sala Kongresowa, pl. Defilad 1 Undoubtedly the most popular and sought-after swing band in the world, expect a goldmine of big-band hits recognizable from the first chords – from Moonlight Serenade to In the Mood. For over 70 years they have been entertaining audiences with their timeless melodies and once again they make Warsaw one of their destinations amongst the 300-odd (!) concerts the band gives each year. Tickets from zł. 95. For further info see kongresowa.pl

CONCERT Yasmin Levy 20:00, Palladium, ul. Złota 9 For a second time this year, Levy, the charismatic ‘world music’

artist will sing for the Warsaw crowd, this time accompanied

by Kayah, one of the most established Polish contemporary singers. Tickets from zł. 190. For more info see palladium.art.pl.

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CONCERT Bashmet, Baeva, Berezovsky, Bauer – Anniversary Concert 19:30, Teatr Polski, ul. Karasia 2 Three of Russia’s most prominent artists and Poland’s Andrzej Bauer come together, with the accompaniment of Sinfonia Varsovia, to perform the most famous pieces of the Romantic period. All proceeds go to charity.

Tickets from zł. 108. For more info see teatrpolski.waw.pl.

CONCERT Fredrika Stahl 20:00, Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Often compared to the likes of Norah Jones, Regina Spektor and even Kate Bush, this Swedish star of new jazz music and ‘intelligent pop’ is perhaps best known for her remake of Twinkle Twinkle Little Star but here will be promoting her fourth album which features the popular Willow.

Tickets from zł. 55. For more info see palladium.art.pl.

13 & 14 BALLET

The Nutcracker by Moscow City Ballet 20:00, Sala Kongresowa, pl. Defilad 1 Something of a Christmas season staple, the Moscow City Ballet return to Warsaw to take audiences away on a magical ride thanks to the captivating talent of the troupe’s dancers. Come see for yourself what even the NYT describes as “stunning and

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

porary trumpeter of the highest class. A true star of world jazz, he has performed with the likes of Al Jarreau and Quincy Jones and will be promoting his newest release, On Fire. Tickets from zł. 50. For more info see hybrydy.com.pl.

breathtaking”. Tickets from zł. 90.

For further info see kongresowa.pl

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CONCERT Dianne Reeves 19:00, Teatr Wielki – Opera Narodowa, Plac Teatralny 1 Winner of four Grammy’s, Reeves belongs amongst the absolute best of the jazz divas – amongst Diana Krall, Casandra Willson and Dee Dee Bridgewater. She captivates audiences with her romantic ballads. Tickets from zł.

110 from eventim.pl. For more info see teatrwielki.pl.

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CONCERT Harlem Gospel Choir 19:00, Sala Kongresowa, pl. Defilad 1 The most talented singers of New York, who can boast playing with the likes of Stevie Wonder

and Diana Ross on their CV, grace Poland with their mighty voices as they tour with a new repertoire. Tickets from zł. 80. For more info see kongresowa.pl.

CONCERT AYO 20:00, Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Each concert is a captivating and unforgettable show, and this one will be a chance to hear AYO’s classics as well as new items from her fourth album, which mixes folk and soul with a touch of hip-hop. Tickets from zł. 110.

For more info see palladium. art.pl.

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CONCERT Handel’s Messiah Royal Castle, 4 Castle Square This is a real treat – the choir of the Warsaw Chamber Opera will

be performing Handel’s most famed work in the grandiose golden ballroom of the Royal Castle. Even though this tour de force was originally written for the Easter season, it is now undoubtedly more of a Christmas time tradition. Tickets zł. 50. For further info see operakameralna. pl.

The Nutcracker 12:00, Teatr Wielki – Opera Narodowa, Plac Teatralny 1 The well-known and well-loved ballet is re-interpreted by the Polish National Ballet and comes, of course, with a breathtaking set and costume design. Tickets from zł. 100.

For further info see teatrwielki.pl

CONCERT

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Vienna Mozart Orchestra 18:00, Sala Kongresowa, pl. Defilad 1 The pride and joy of Vienna comes to Warsaw with their signature historical dress that, combined with the sounds of Mozart, will transport you back to the 18th century Habsburg-ruled capital. Tickets from zł. 95. For more info see kongresowa.pl

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BALLET

CONCERT New Year’s Eve Concert 20:00, Teatr Wielki – Opera Narodowa, Plac Teatralny 1 If getting absolutely wasted to the sounds of fireworks does not sound like your perfect New Year’s Eve, this is the ideal alternative. Prepare to ring in the New Year with all the pomp and circumstance adequate to a night at the opera. Tickets from zł. 200. For more info see teatrwielki.pl

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CULTURE Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel. 22 758 5067, www.muzuem-motorzyacji. com.pl What looks like a cemetery of rust and a tangle of exhaust pipes unravels to be Warsaw’s most underrated museum. Find vehicles of every description: Lech Wałesa’s Volvo (with 7cm bullet-proof windows), Gomułka’s ZIS limo, German wartime armor and a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark – the type favored by Elvis and Marilyn. It’s incredible in its peculiarity, with the random layout, oily smells and dark, cobwebbed corners only adding to the sense of treading somewhere special.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www.kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. Dec 6: Around Jazz.

A monthly jazz concert held in the planetarium with a ‘cosmic theme’.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Edward Dwurnik, Jenny Holzer, Annie Leibovitz, Wilhelm Sasnal, Andy Warhol).

The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Until Dec 15: ‘Ruja i porobstwo’ (Debauchery). Various young Polish artists exhibiting in the space of a single room.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl. The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take

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longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion. Ongoing until Dec 31: Gerald Howson – A Very Polish Affair. Sixty photographs taken

by Howson in 1959 during his three week trip around Warsaw, Kraków, Nowa Huta and Lublin.

The negatives were smuggled out of Poland in Howson’s trouser leg, and remained unpublished for 50 years! Ongoing until Dec 31: Warsaw from Above. Photos of Warsaw circa 1940-45 taken by Luftwaffe pilots.

Jewish Historical Institute ul. Tłomackie 3/5, www.jhi.pl Officially opened in1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw.

It contains art work, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. Ongoing till Jan 31: Foreign and Unpleasant. A collection of caricatures that accompanied anti-Semitic articles.

Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.mhw.pl The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film titled, it details the powerful story behind the destruction of Warsaw.

Ongoing until Dec 8: Warsaw Under Construction – Profession: Architect.

Preludes of the Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6.

Slated to open in full in the first half of 2014, this hugely impressive museum is already luring streams of onlookers eager to preview the temporary exhibits housed in the opening halls.

Ongoing: Biographies of Things.

A temporary display of items donated to the museum, among them toys, artwork, photos, religious items and everyday articles like travel trunks and clothing. It’s

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

hard not to be moved.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before.

Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, www.krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl Situated in the picturesque park which once housed the residence of King Stanisław August this museum includes paintings and furniture from one of the most glorious periods in Poland’s history as well as temporary exhibitions of more modern work.

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia. com Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum. pl The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors

with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Miroslaw Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski. Ongoing until January 6: In the Heart of the Country. The first comprehensive presentation of the museum’s international collection of art.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl The very opposite of the new-fangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc.

Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Ongoing till February 2, 2014: Guercino. The Triumph of Baroque. A showcase of one of the most extraordinary Italian baroque painters.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www.neonmuzeum.org A complete departure from the stuff museums in Poland are famed for, this long awaited project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26.

What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation.

Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www.postermuseum.pl

With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol.

‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw.

Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk.

Railway Museum ul. Towarowa 1, www.muzkol.pl Inside the museum contains an unimaginative formula of train models (including one charmingly outdated model demonstrating a crash!), uniforms and paintings depicting Polish rail travel through the passage of time.

Outside it’s a different story – find an amazing collection of locomotives, including armored vehicles and Comrade Bierut’s luxury saloon car.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.plw Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera.

Ongoing until Dec 15: Houses as Silver Tents. Works by contemporary artists penetrate the stereotypes connected with the Romany people. Ongoing until Feb 16: Robert Maciejuk, Honza Zamojski. Top and bottom. This joint exhibition is a culminating point for the two artists’ long friendship and collaboration.

Ongoing until Feb 6: Map. Artistic Migrations and the Cold

Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the

War. A reflection of the dynamic art world after the Second World War. From Dec 13: Amore ódio à Lygia Clark (I Love and Hate Lygia Clark). A retrospective exhibition showcasing Brazilian artists of the younger generation

NEED TO KNOW Museum hours (and prices) change way too frequently for our liking, so check indiviudal websites for the latest story.

Note that many of these addresses close one day per week (usually Monday or Tuesday), and that an equal amount hold ‘visitor’ days once a week when admission prices are waived.

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INFRONT CITY PRIDE 17 / CONTEST 17 / CRIME 16 / FASHION 16 / LGBT 16 / NATIONAL 15 / NEWS 16

NATIONAL

Somewhere Over the Rainbow

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX WEBBER

Right wing extremists pushed Poland into the headlines after running riot for a third consecutive year as Independence Day parades spiralled out of control. Violence flared after dozens of masked football thugs broke off from a nationalist procession to attack a squat on Wilcza and Skorupki streets. Left wing anarchists occupying the ‘Przychodnia’ squat fought back, repelling charges by launching missiles from the rooftop.

As the parade rumbled down Marszałkowska, the ugly mood spread as a rainbow installation on pl. Zbawiciela was torched by the baying mob. A fire engine that arrived on the scene was forced to retreat after being pelted with flares and firecrackers.

Later in the night, as the march progressed past the Russian Embassy, a sentry cabin was set alight and police fought to restore order using rubber bullets and pepper spray. With sporadic skirmishes developing into pitch battles, city hall moved to disband the march by declaring it illegal.

The Kremlin reacted furiously to news that the Russian ministry had been targetted, and within days the Polish Embassy in Moscow had been subjected to a revenge attack conducted by Russian nationalists. Domestically, the fallout has led to searching questions being asked about the rise of the right, as well as police tactics and the future of the march. “For days they’d been threatening to destroy the rainbow,” said one eyewitness, “yet nothing was done to protect it – the police just melted away.”

Built to symbolize tolerance, the controversial rainbow has been adopted as a symbol of the chaos. In the aftermath thousands joined Facebook groups pledging to rebuild it, while others gathered underneath its skeleton for a group ‘kiss in’. (AW)

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INFRONT

BRIEFING ED WIGHT’S NEWS BITES ON THE JOB

Hipster Square

Pl. Zbawiciela was featured on the New York Times website after a video short scoped in on its hipster associations. After much of the negative press of the last month, it made surreal viewing to see Zbawiciela being promoted as a place of creativity as opposed a burning battleground between old and new Poland.

“Warsaw is new, it’s progressing,” asserts Martina Matwiejczuk who features prominently in the vid, “there’s a lot of space for self-expression.”

CRIME

Kuba in Crisis

Media personality Kuba Wojewódzki was attacked as he arrived to Radio Eska’s offices at the tail end of October, with a masked assailant spraying him with a substance since identified as capsaicin – an active component found in chilies and pepper spray.

Wojewódzki escaped unharmed, though his seeming reluctance to cooperate with police has frustrated investigators. The X Factor host has repeatedly courted controversy, not least for remarks made about Ukrainian cleaners and Nigerian cannibals.

LGBT

The Dark Ages

Zakątek pub on Chmielna 5 ended up in hot water last month after a foreign journalist spotted a ‘no homosexuality’ sticker plastered behind the bar alongside the drinks specials and no-smoking signs. When questioned on it, the barman is alleged to have replied “if people don’t like it, they can go somewhere else.” The story was reported by Gazeta Wyborcza, with Warsaw Mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz-Waltz promising an investigation to see if any discrimination laws had been breached.

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

NO CROAK! Kazimierz Stachurscy thought his daughter was just CROAKING when she ran into the living room screaming there was a dead frog in the gherkin jar. But when the 45-year-old took the lid off he saw the slimy, green reptile squashed inside. “I’d asked my daughter to fetch the gherkins for me and then she started screaming. At first I thought it was a joke,” he told media. “But then I saw its beady eyes staring up at me. If my daughter hadn’t noticed it I would’ve probably eaten it,” he said.

LIVING IN UDDER FEAR Locals in a mountain village are living in fear after a herd of mad cows moved into the area and started destroying their livelihoods. The 20-strong herd first descended upon the village of Jedliny Zdrój three years ago, terrorizing pets and charging villagers – and now they won’t leave. Local Stanisław Stępien, 67, said: “One man had to climb a tree to escape one of the beasts that charged at him. Another nearly drowned jumping into a lake to escape. Now we have to lock up our children and wait for the prowling cows to leave. We are living in fear.”

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA. OPPOSITE FROM LEFT SHUTTERSTOCK, PRESS MATERIAL

FASHION

A job center has come under fire for offering unemployed women work in a Go-Go bar. The employment center in Warsaw put up ads for dancers alongside those for cleaners, clerks and receptionists. Job seeker Kasia Kwiatkowska, 26, said: “I spent years at university studying economics. I am fluent in three languages and have a diploma in business and communication. Sure I do ballet, but to be offered work as a lap dancer is insulting.” A job center spokesman said: “She fitted the criteria the club was looking for: English speaker with dancing skills and an ability to communicate well.”

CONTEST

It Wasn't Me

CITY PRIDE

On the Leaderboard

The Anholt-GfK City Brands Index has placed Warsaw as 43rd in a global ranking of cities, ahead of places like Shanghai, Istanbul and Rio. The study polled 20,000 people in twenty countries, pinning them on their perceptions of other cities. The Polish capital fared best on public safety where it was ranked 36th, and cultural openness, where it was rated 37th. Overall, London, Sydney and Paris were proclaimed the top places to live.

The artists behind the winning entry in Warsaw’s search for a new neon symbol were publicly shamed after it was revealed they had paid a US-registered company $141 for 1,900 Facebook votes.

The competition, coordinated by the Neon Museum and RWE, saw artists Karol Murlak and Magdalena Czapiewska romp home in first with a bizarre piece that depicted three jam jars lined in front of each other. After the skullduggery was exposed, organizers announced Mariusz Lewczyk as winner. His piece ‘Miło Cię Widzieć’ (Nice to See You), can be viewed hanging on Most Gdański. facebook.com/warsawinsider

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LADIES AND GENTS, THE WARSAW INSIDER IS THRILLED TO BRING YOU THE LATEST INSTALLMENT OF OUR ANNUAL FOOD AND DRINKS AWARDS: THE BEST OF WARSAW. WITH NO FURTHER DISTRACTION, AND TO THE SOUND OF TOOTING TRUMPETS, WE’RE DELIGHTED TO REVEAL THE CREAM OF THE CROP…

The Best…

Beer Bar Casual Dining Chef Design Fine Dining Late Night Outstanding Achievement Restaurant Wine Bar And more!

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Best of Warsaw ON A FOGGY NOVEMBER NIGHT THE INSIDER’S HAND-PICKED TEAM OF EXPERTS GATHERED IN THE VIP ROOM OF HOŻA BY MONDOVINO FOR A NIGHT OF HEATED FOODIE DISCUSSION. BUOYED BY STEAKS AND A VAT OF WINE, DISCOURSE RAGED INTO THE EARLY HOURS AS WARSAW’S DINING SCENE WAS SCRUTINIZED UNDER THE MICROSCOPE. JOINING OUR EDITORIAL TEAM WERE…

Monika Powalisz, is a journalist, screenwriter and comedy writer.

A native of Łódź, she left her hometown to study at Warsaw’s Theater Academy and the Wajda School. Obsessed with food culture, she loves eating out and spending time with friends in her kitchen. Her work has been published widely in Poland's top food titles..

Raised in Botswana, then educated at the prestigious Westminster College, Joseph Seeletso moved to Poland after marrying a Pole. Since then, he has emerged as one of the most eminent chefs in the country, fronting numerous TV cookery shows, and adjudicating on the hit Top Chef program.

Known for his easy charm and trademark smile, he also runs Joseph’s Culinary Studio.

Outstanding Achievement Wojciech Modest Amaro

T

he big winner at last year’s awards, Wojciech Amaro was catapulted into the public eye in March after securing Poland’s first Michelin star. As such, and for the sake of leveling the playing field, the Insider panel chose to disqualify Amaro and his restaurant from the other categories, instead opting to bestow him with a one-off award for Outstanding Achievement.

Granted a rising Michelin star three months after opening, and accorded the full honor a year later, success has trailed Atelier from day one. At the core of their ideology is the Calendar of Nature devised by Amaro. “Dividing my cooking into seasons wasn’t enough,” says the chef. “Poland is very rich in natural produce, but some of it passes as soon as it arrives.

Present under the condition of anonymity were Miss X and Miss Y, the enigmatic bloggers behind the froblog.pl and restaurantica.pl websites. By day, they lead busy corporate lives, but by night they have become known as among the most influential and prolific food bloggers in the capital. Together, they also run the restaurant news blog warsawfoodie.pl.

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

That’s why I created the Calendar of Nature, dividing my cooking into 52 weeks so the menu can change weekly.”

Operating under the by-line ‘Where Nature Meets Science’, diners should not assume Blumenthal-style flights of eccentricity. “To me, science is about knowledge,” says Amaro, “and that includes the knowledge of old recipes and techniques – it appreciates the food calendar.” Having traveled 60,000 kilometers to source ‘forgotten’ ingredients, linking to nature is forced in his bloodstream. Juniper needles, for instance, are touted as a favorite plaything. “A magic ingredient,” enthuses Amaro, “we use it instead of pepper here.”

Through such doctrine Amaro builds a bridge between the past and the present, with a menu that challenges and toys with tastes, textures and temperatures. There’s a simplicity and a precision, yet also flair – magic, even. For a moment, the universe stops. And that’s the real point of Atelier. For three or so hours you live in another world. A world of ecstasy.

And when you leave, you leave transformed.

Best Cocktails Secado

S

ecado eschew something of an easy charm – while you wouldn’t call it a cocktail bar in the organic sense of the word, there’s something here that’s got people buzzing. Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally

hangout – not always in that order.

And as for the drinks, they’re really very good.

Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails. Short enough not to bewilder people, but long enough to maintain interest, the cocktail menu strikes a perfect balance between classics and house specials. Of the former, the Old Fashioned is an exquisite blend of bourbon, cane sugar and a spray of Angostura. Served in a chilled tumbler with a heavy lump of ice, it’s a top sip and a simple example of bar tending done right.

For a classic with a twist, the Pimm’s Punch gives this time-honored taste of Wimbledon a jaunty jolt with lemonade switched out for Ginger Ale. It’s magic.

Yet it is the house specials that people really talk about, in particular, their best seller: the Bloody Hell. Using Chopin vodka infused with horse radish, piri-piri and basil, this pimped version of the Bloody Mary incorporates chili syrup and wasabi into a high octane drink with a kick. Never before has the cocktail category been so tightly contested – in the end though, this wildcard entry does enough to convince us that it’s got a big future ahead.

HONORABLE MENTION

Set in a beautifully restored piece of PRL concrete, Syreni Śpiew’s lasting popularity has proved the doubters wrong. This is not some one season wonder, rather a place that has gone from strength to strength. Primarily known for its hefty whisky offer, the cocktails also stand up to scrutiny on account of their consistent brilliance.

A great place that does enough to earn the No. 2 spot.

OTHER NOMINEES Paparazzi Warsaw cocktail culture began here! Years down the line, and it’s still a major player. Pies Czy Suka For molecular mixology and novelty cocktails, look no further. Coctail Bar Max With the fine-tuning of some minor issues, we could even be looking at next year’s winner.

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Best of Warsaw

Best Restaurant Design Signature

M

oney is nothing without good taste – so it’s handy that H15 was developed with plenty of both. Apocryphal it might be, but the story goes that

when H15 was at the drawing board stage the owner assigned the design team one task: to create the best hotel in Poland. This they did, and the onsite restaurant, Signature, wasn’t an afterthought. Hotel restaurants get an ugly reputation as anonymous feeding troughs, but Signature has personality in abundance. Described by one reader as ‘a Monegasque state of mind’, sensitive restoration has maintained original friezes and reliefs from the time this was the address of the inter-war Soviet Embassy. Other

HONORABLE MENTION

touches number lighting by Serge Mouille, lavish 1950s chairs from Oswald, not to mention five photos of Marilyn shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. It’s a sensory joy, yet for all these fine details at no time does Signature feel too heavy. It feels natural and effortlessly classic. If Audrey Hepburn were a restaurant, she’d be Signature. But the story of this restaurant doesn’t end with the design. In the shape of Wojciech Kilian the H15 has unearthed one of the big breakthrough talents of 2013.

In pre-war times the building housed a cinema, in later years a grubby garage and then, well, an empty ruined space. Now fully resuscitated, Winsofera looks raw and industrial, yet never cold, never severe. It’s a triumph of design, and in a nod to its heritage, a private cinema forms part of the package. One of the hits of 2013, the restaurant’s philosophy mirrors the look. “Like the interiors here,” says chef Jakub Adamczyk, “I wanted the food to be clean, clear, fresh and accessible, not tired, not overwhelming.” He’s succeeded.

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OTHER NOMINEES Thai Thai An outrageously sumptuous design matches midnight blacks against glimmering gold. Opulent but not excessive, it’s a tremendous background for dining. Concept 13 Last year’s ousted title holder still impresses with its sleek design and rooftop views.

You feel like a millionaire just by sitting there looking at it all.

Warszawa Wschodnia A vast factory turned restaurant is the scene, with the best seats in the house ringing an island kitchen.

Best Fine Dining Nolita

T

here is life beyond Atelier Amaro, and that’s proved by Nolita, an urbane restaurant bossed by Jacek Grochowina – one of the brightest cooking talents Poland’s ever seen. “What I don’t want is for people to think they’re in just another Warsaw restaurant,” he says, “you know, flowery wallpaper and all that.

Nolita is more of a global place, not typical Warsaw, and the same goes for the food. We wanted fine dining, but also something a bit more relaxed, and a little more casual.”

Saying it is one thing though, doing it another. But Nolita walk the walk. Crossing the threshold, diners are met by a stylish room that whispers elegance. There’s a sense of assurance. The interiors are lux, but never loud and definitely not lairy. The service is smart, smooth, confident.

Instantly, you recognize you’re in a place that values perfection.

“I want food people can understand,” shrugs Grochowina, “but of course, with a few surprises. I don’t look at fashions, and I don’t care about things like burned leek powder. The food has to be true – whether a dish has two ingredients, or fifteen, the flavors need to be right.” And indeed they are. Regarded as Poland’s best shot at another Michelin star, Nolita leaves all those who visit pondering the experience long after they exit.

HONORABLE MENTION

It’s a dangerous sport, eating in Warsaw’s historic center. The tourist zone is a minefield rigged with rip-off joints serving inedible mess.

But there is reprieve, and that’s provided by La Rotisserie. Set in the luxury Le Regina hotel, a meal here is a fairytale story. The service is extrovert and charged with charisma; the wine uncorked by Poland’s champion sommelier; and the food cooked by the magnificent Paweł Oszczyk. His menu is precise and artistic, with brilliance a repeated theme. Invariably, you’ll be parting with big numbers to enjoy it, but enjoy it you will.

OTHER NOMINEES Signature The Insider ate here four times last year: once when we had to, and three times when didn’t. Winosfera Not to be dismissed as ‘just a wine bar’, we know people who argue it’s the best restaurant here. Casa Pablo The Spanish restaurant Warsaw has been waiting for since Day 1.

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Best of Warsaw

Best Late Night Sztuka i Sztucki

D

efining Sztuki & Sztuczki is no easy task. Visit one night and you’ll find a studious audience hushed and focused on some art house film. On another, discover a high energy crowd heavily engaged in DJ worship. The entertainment program here is varied and diverse, but through that one thing is clear: S&S has been a huge success.

Opened late last year by the creators of Cud Nad Wisła, there’s much

to appreciate here. Set in a covert courtyard basement, the idea was to ‘merge elements of the 60s with now.’

To meet this end designers Kacper and Jan Gronkiewicz were recruited, and their interior is raw, uncomplicated and strangely beguiling. Visitors negotiate a maze of narrow corridors, nooks and corners, with meanderings to the leviathan, boat-shaped bar taking in concrete floors, naked brickwork and vaulted ceilings. Visually speaking, you wouldn’t call it incredible, but it is a marvelous usage of the available space – people linger to appreciate the atmosphere.

The drinks front is also capable and noteworthy. The beer list offers a jumble of exemplary brews, among them the outstanding Grimbergen,

while cocktails are novel and largely ravishing. And of course, it helps that enjoyment of them is done on ultra-cool seats designed by Pierre Favresse.

But Sztuki’s most attractive quality is the people themselves. Their normalcy is refreshing – this isn’t a collection of sullen plastic models and gurning wannabe’ Latino dudes, nor is it a painful assemblage of idiotically decorated hipsters. The people are fashion aware but not fashion victims.

It’s a place where individuality thrives.

The music is integral to attracting such people, and as such find a schedule that encompasses everything from jazz tributes to improv nights and hilarious swing meets. That it flourishes is good news indeed.

HONORABLE MENTION

It might lack a red carpet, but DeLite definitely aspires to the ranks of Platinium and Foksal XVIII in the ‘bubbles and beauties’ stakes. Scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis, flirting and dancing, while exposed brick and pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror setup in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, spaceship interior.

Of the top end uber clubs, this is becoming our favorite. with a wild night guaranteed.

OTHER NOMINEES Platinium Still the top ‘super club’ in the country, head to Platinium if your idea of heaven is a ‘Footballer’s Wives’ crowd of impossibly good looking people – you wonder if they’ve been genetically engineered. Foksal XVIII Glam and stylish, Foksal XVIII is the crowning glory of this traditionally ‘rich and pretty’ street. Sen Pszczoły Norms are broken by Sen Pszczoły, an industrial set-up whose design appears to have been aided by dangerous doses of banned psychotropic substances. Nights can get nuts.

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

Best Beer Bar Kufle i Kapsle

O

utside the field of science, the most complex mystery faced by man has been the continuing and perplexing success of the big brand beers. At last, however, a page has been turned. Poles have realized, slowly, there is life beyond the bland, yellow pee they’ve been drinking for so long. The last couple of years have seen a growing number of ‘beer bars’, places retailing quirky beers from little known producers.

But it was 2013 that saw interest in craft beer reach a crescendo, for it was the summer just gone that saw the multi-tap born.

Picking a winner from Warsaw’s clutch of beer bars has been a tough ask, but Kufle i Kapsle just do enough to scrape through in first. True, they’re not free from weakness: despair at the queue jumpers, curse the line for the toilet, and puzzle over why they keep their wonderful bottled beers positioned out of view. But for all this, there’s a warmth to Kufle. Looking a little rugged, it’s a place of thick pungent smells and lively background buzz.

And the beer, my God the beer. The bottled selection (please, someone give the display more prominence) is unrivalled locally in scope and variety. Yet the real praise is reserved for the taps: the choice is dynamic, diverse and at times experimental. In short, it’s sublime.

HONORABLE MENTION

Warsaw’s love affair with the multi-tap began with Cuda na Kiju – this was the groundbreaker. Set inside a modern glass prism, it’s a place of expertly picked drafts and educated bar keeps who care what they sell. Winning the plaudits is a rotating beer menu that ricochets round pale ales and stouts, weizens and lager. Match that with a democratic, attitude-free crowd, a sprawling courtyard and a bang center location, and you have a place of real merit.

OTHER NOMINEES Chmielarnia On any other year Chmielarnia would have breezed this category. The combination of Indian food and treasure find beers is indeed rather noble. Spiskowcy Rozkoszy What was a good bar is now a very good bar – the addition of a basement section with seven taps is to be lauded. Piw Paw Though Piw Paw have salient weaknesses that need addressing, any bar with 57 taps needs to be admired for sheer chutzpah.

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Best of Warsaw HONORABLE MENTION

Best Chef

Paweł Oszczyk (La Rotisserie)

W

hen speaking to industry insiders, one thing becomes apparent: everyone loves Paweł Oszczyk. Colleagues and contemporaries build a portrait of a modest man, an intelligent and thoughtful cook thoroughly consumed by an unrelenting passion for his work.

In a trade scarred by intense rivalries, it’s almost a surprise to learn how deep this respect runs, how genuine it is.

Mr Nice Guy he might be, but it’s not his affable demeanor that endears him to the diners – it’s his talent. “I get the

impression,” says Joseph Seeletso, “that were it not a hotel restaurant he would have had a Michelin star a long time ago.”

But if this elusive star bothers him, Oszczyk isn’t letting on. On the contrary, you get the sense of a man immensely satisfied by what he has created and the support he’s been given from the team that’s around him. And just what has he created? The answer is a gastronomic adventure of classic cuisine with a personalized twist. On the Insider’s summer visit, that meant a tasting menu that included duck pastrami with marinated strawberries and slivers of foie gras; grilled fillet of sea bass; and rack of Welsh lamb that fell off the bone. Everything we touched was extraordinary in presentation and taste. Ladies and gentlemen, this isn’t just a good guy, but a magnificent chef.

He might be young, but it would be grossly patronizing to call Jacek Grochowina ‘one to watch’.

For a start, that would be to under-estimate what he’s achieved with Nolita.

In the space of a year it’s moved up a level from The Next Big Thing to The Big Thing. Carrying an aura of certainty and focus, you get the feeling a bullet wouldn’t stop Grochowina turning up to the kitchen.

Driven by a hard work ethic, Grochowina talks of punishing schedules in London: finishing shifts in The Ritz, catching a couple of hours sleep in a park, before turning up for freelance agency assignments. “But London didn’t use me,” he states, “I used London.” Absorbing the knowledge he gained, he’s put life’s lessons to good use at Nolita. Displaying remarkable flair and an exceptional eye for tastes and combinations, this chef holds Warsaw in his palm.

OTHER NOMINEES Jakub Adamczyk (Winosfera) Mentored by Phil Howard of The Square, Adamczyk is the magic component behind Winosfera’s sensational debut year. Wojciech Kilian (Signature) "Kilian who?"people asked, but it's been a brilliant breakthrough year for the young chef.

Robert Trzópek (The Harvest) With a tasting menu coming soon, expect the extent of Trzópek’s true talent to be unleashed next year.

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“ The concept is edgy and the execution is deft”

Best Casual Dining Kaskrut

I

f it’s casual dining you’re after, then it doesn’t get more casual than Kaskrut. Snuck up above a basement store, it’s a small, tight space with a crowded layout of communal tables and screechy high stools. Comfort is low on the agenda, with plenty of elbow-knocking and eavesdropping. And it’s not just the design that is modest. The menu is gruff and tight-lipped. Reinvented every two weeks, it’s a blackboard affair that uses minimal bluster. Rejecting flamboyant vocab, dishes are listed

by their basic components: e.g. cod/ omelet/soy. The reveal comes later.

What you expect is basic cooking.

What transpires is art. A pink moist duck arrives sitting on a red salad, a swirl of vert slicked all around. It looks beautiful and tastes even better.

Portions are scant, but what else do you expect. Named after the French word casse-croûte (translation: light bite), the intention is to get people picking through the list and amassing little dishes. And with the prices oscillating between zł. 15-30, most people do.

Of course, some dishes work better than others. Chef Adam Leszczyński is a scientist and his kitchen is his lab. Some experiments end in smoke, others in success. The concept is edgy and the execution is deft, and surely the reason why Kaskrut has moved from insider secret to talk of the town.

HONORABLE MENTION

KASKRUT PHOTOGRAPHS BY STANISLAW BOBROWIEC BONIECKI

The dimmed, bookish interior evokes the times when Opasły Tom was a cult café utilized by the intelligentsia. Now overseen by chef Agata Wojda, the philosophy is simple. “A good restaurant needs a special atmosphere,” says Wojda, “and it can’t be too big – it’s important to see the guests, to see what they’re saying about the food.”

In Opasły Tom, the feedback is emphatically positive. Employing fresh produce from farmers’ markets, the restaurant follows the principles of slow food dining with an insistence on quality. Intimate and atmospheric, whether it’s a la carte or Agata’s tasting menu, the final results gain universal approval from Warsaw’s troop of foodies.

OTHER NOMINEES Hoża by Mondovino Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken these twin primal pleasures to another dimension. Brasserie Warszawska This debonair brasserie keeps it simple, elegant and classy while at the same time retaining a spry, casual ambience. For city center landlubbers to make the effort to reach Taste Wilanów speaks volumes for Dominik Moskalenko’s cooking – ‘phenomenal’ says our secret diner.

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Best of Warsaw

Best Wine Bar Bristol Wine Bar

I

t’s been called the Grand Dame of Warsaw’s hotel scene, and there’s no disputing the Bristol’s pedigree. Opened in 1901, the capital’s most prestigious hotel comes with a hefty guestbook that reads like a who’s who: from Dietrich to Nixon, to Scorsese and McCartney. But it’s not all been plain sailing for this giant. In recent years it had started to lose its shine, if not its reputation. So what happened next? Rather than being sectioned off to that great hotel in the sky they gave London-based designer Anita Rosato a call.

Remarkable in every aspect, the ensuing refit has elevated The Briz back where it belongs: the top. And the changes haven’t just been cosmetic.

Amongst other instructions, Rosato’s brief included the addition of a wine bar, with the result being an extraordinary space that conjures the essence of luxury and Great Gatsby glam.

Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors.

You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone. The wine selection was personally overseen

by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country. And the choice is prodigious.

Offering a complete cruise through

the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls. Complimenting them are an array of tapas and canapés that are a joy to behold.

Neither is it financially prohibitive.

Squandering money is an option, but so too is saving it. Prices being at just under zł. 20 for a glass, which is nicely in line with the rest of the city – but don’t think you’re entering a routine wine bar. With the lights dimmed right down for evening, nowhere in town feels so special and distinguished. For date night, it’s a must.

“ But talking points are not limited to the interiors alone”

HONORABLE MENTION

Were there an award for Outstanding Achievement in the wine category, Robert Mielżyński would be a shoe-in. The Canadian-born oenologist awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. There cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer.

OTHER NOMINEES Ale Wino Warsaw is increasingly devoted to megalith wine worlds. In comparison, Ale Wino is small fry, Lilliputian even. Even so, we love it for its charm, atmosphere, food and yes… wine. Jung & Lecker Having won Gazeta’s Kanjpa Roku, it’s been a good year for J&L – and justly so.

Enoteka A strong selection of handpicked wines, and an enchanting seasonal garden help gain Enoteka a leaderboard placing.

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

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Best of Warsaw

Best Live Music

Best Hotel Restaurant

Best Urban Market

They won last year, and in spite of mounting competition, Pardon To Tu have raised their game a notch, with an increasingly impressive live calendar of alternative domestic and international acts.

RUNNER UP: SZTUKI & SZTUCZKI

Fine dining at an everyman price? Yes please. And Signature don’t just do that, they do so in elegant interiors that leave the rest of the pack trailing.

RUNNER UP: LA ROTISSERIE

You almost breathe the spirit of Paris while perusing the stalls at Koszyki. Sure, it’s not as comprehensive as other markets, but the quality is exceptional. And the ramshackle neo-Gothic background is thrilling.

RUNNER UP: LE TARG

Best Smoothie

Best Family Restaurant

Best Bakery

Signature

Pardon To Tu

Niezłe Ziółko

Raw juices, cleansing concoctions, vitamin packed smoothies and a host of other vegetable and fruit based drinks make this newbie a standout in a city learning to get creative with the countertop blender.

RUNNER UP: CAFE 6 1/2

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Kosmos Kosmos

A café/bar/restaurant with murals by Swanksy, a lego-clad bar, and a children’s area with a puppet theater, cardboard castle and workshops each Saturday. And with a nutritious kids menu, they cover all bases.

RUNNER UP: NABO

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

Koszyki

Cafe Vincent Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues are as certain as the quality.

RUNNER UP: SAM

Best Dive Bar Świetlica

PHOTOGRAPH OF KRED CAFE HOG BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

It’s not a dive in the sleazy sense, but it does tout unconventional music, inadequate lights, and plenty of stumbling figures lurking in the shadows. It all feels so right.

RUNNER UP: MAŁY WOJTEK

Best Sports Bar

Warsaw Tortilla Factory It’s not just the extent of their sporting offer that elevates WTF, but the atmosphere.

Whether it’s international rugby, or Bristol City on a Tuesday night, the tension, camaraderie and horseplay are unmatched.

RUNNER UP: LEGENDS

Best Hipster Spot Diner 55

Three street food venues under one roof was always going to attract our hipster friends, and lo and behold, here they are – in their hundreds. Skateboards, sneakers, skinny jeans mandatory.

RUNNER UP: SOLEC 44

Best Family Café Kred Cafe

So much more than a thriving playroom, Kred’s success lies in fostering such a strong sense of positive energy; community, even.

Why weren’t cafes like this when we were mały monsters?

RUNNER UP: KOLONIA

Best for a Business Meeting Nolita

Looking for a discreet restaurant in which to scheme and schmooze? Nolita not only tick those boxes, but they also cross the one marked ‘breathtaking food’. That deal will get signed.

RUNNER UP: BRASSERIE WARSZAWSKA

Best Food Truck

Roots Food Truck Food trucks became a common sight over summer, and you’ve just got to salute any trend that renders post-pub trips to Warsaw’s pointless, poisonous kebab shops void. Our favorite? Roots.

RUNNER UP: RICO'S TACOS

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Best of Warsaw

Best Gay Friendly

Best Vegetarian

Między Nami

Away from the sordid saunas or the high camp of the less ‘salacious’ clubs, LGBT tolerant venues are thin on the ground.

Między Nami plug the gap with an open crowd and cool interior.

RUNNER UP: KLUB GALERIA

Krowarzywa

Even committed meat eaters concede there’s something special here. This is a burger bar with a difference: the stuff between the bun is vegan – and way superior to the majority of ‘proper’ burger bars.

RUNNER UP: LOVING HUT

Best Pizza

Best Steak

Ave Pizza Ave versus Mąka: the biggest head-to-head since Reagan v. Gorbachev. Both have tipped Warsaw’s on its head, and both deserve applause. But in our eyes, Ave edge it for their expert calzone.

RUNNER UP: MĄKA I WODA

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Hoża by Mondovino At press time, Argentinean chef Martin Gimenez Castro was among the final three contestants on the acclaimed Top Chef program. If there’s one meat master you’d recruit for your BBQ, it’s him.

RUNNER UP: BUTCHERY AND WINE

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

Best Burger

Burger Kitchen Opened at a time when most burgeristas had already sworn allegiance to their favorite, the opening of Burger Kitchen surprised everyone. Even former skeptics agree they blow the competition out of the water.

RUNNER UP: WARBURGER

Best Breakfast

Christian's Bakerhouse “Our chef places great emphasis on quality,” confided our waitress, and that’s no word of a lie. Numerous national breakfasts are represented, from nutritious kick-starters to a full British fry-up.

RUNNER UP: BURGER KITCHEN

Best Coffee

Ministerwo Kawy

PHOTOGRAPH OF INN UNDER THE RED HOG BY ANNA J. KUTOR

Ranked 16th in the WORLD, you can put your faith in the house barista. Using Arabica from Colombia, Kenya and Guatemala, rave reviews are both standard and appropriate in this neighborhood stalwart.

RUNNER UP: RELAKS

Best View

Qchnia Artystycna Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a park and canal way down below? Not convinced?

Then what if such view comes from a reconstructed castle?

RUNNER UP: BISTRO WARSZAWA

Best Cafe Design Kava i Vino

Even independent cafes have a herd mentality when it comes to trends, design, even fonts. So to see such an original use of space – and ceiling – is amazing. Now watch the copycats.

RUNNER UP: KOSZYKI

Best Bookish Cafe Państwo Miasto

Nothing is better than settling in a cafe, engrossed in a book while watery, winter sun pours through the windows. We do just that in Państwo Miasto, a friendly café charged with an academic undercurrent.

RUNNER UP: CZEŚĆ

Best Piano Bar

Piękna Bistro Check the live piano schedule, pick up the phone, then book the two armchairs that sit next to the fireplace. Contemporary but atmospheric, it’s great for a sophisticated date night.

RUNNER UP: BISTRO WARSZAWA

Best Theme

Inn Under the Red Hog Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment. Which explains the playful nature of this place. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there!

RUNNER UP: MAGIEL

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Best of Warsaw

Prasowy

Pierrogeria

Best Polish...

Brewery

After lying dormant for decades the Polish beer scene is seriously hopping. Showing the big brands how it’s done are a number of smaller scale breweries – none though, smaller than Artezan. Founded in 2012 by a trio of home brewers, their Pacific ale, an American-style IPA, is a work of complete brilliance.

Butcher

The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Prices are higher than the norm, but the quality is such that you’ll never complain.

Classic Polish

For that elegant touch of Zhivago-era class, it’s got to be Biała Gęś. Interiors conjure images of a countryside manor; you imagine rolling up here after a day shooting foxes. Yet it’s not those blighters on the menu, but geese. That’s the house specialty, and you’d do well to find better.

Milk Bar

Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style

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Dawne Smaki

phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described as ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated.

such przekąski bars to choose from, and most of them are well aware that their customers will be too banjaxed to notice what appears on their plate. Afera na Szpitalnej are more honorable than that, offering genuine homemade food (cooked by the owner’s mother, no less) that’s held in high regard.

Modern Polish

Traditional

There was a keen sense of surprise when Dawne Smaki opened, principally because most felt it would be another Nowy Świat exercise in foodie fraud. But instead of rip-off tourist dreck, we got this: a light modern menu devised by chef Michał Bajerski.

Illustrating that Polish food isn’t always about stodge, fat and inedible bits hidden under the cabbage, this chef is one to watch.

Pierogi

Pierogi: the pride of the Polish pantry… Pervasive in their presence, no other dish features so heavily on local menus. Even so, the search for perfect pierogi can lead only to one door: and you’ll find that particular portal on pl. Konstytucji. Through their use of unconventional fillings and natural ingredients, Pierrogeria elevate a standard, staple food into a class of its own.

Przekąski

For those ex-pats out of the loop, think of przekąski as Polish tapas styled specifically to compliment an evening of heavy drinking. There’s a number of

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

To quote an unknown source, traditional Polish food is a celebration of ‘heritage, culture, singing and vodka.’ But snooty Warsaw doesn’t do traditional, at least not in the same way tourist havens like Kraków do. So it’s a joy to find Folk Gospoda. Good humored and filled with gnarled furniture and mountain songs, it’s a place where warm memories are made.

Welcome to Poland

New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale.

Zapiekanka

The ultimate local street food, zapiekanki are best described as a halved baguette topped with cheese, ketchup and any gunk left lying about.

The locals love ’em, and you will as well if this crime against dining is from Zapiexy Luxusowe.

Best Ethnic...

Balkan

U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices that all bank accounts can support. On a grim sleety day, chef Gabor’s signature goulash makes winter just about manageable.

RUNNER UP: Gemo

Chinese

Warsaw is notorious for its Chinese food, and the horrific reputation is definitely justified. Cesarski Pałac, however, have managed to maintain a standard that deserves recognition – for a start, the food doesn’t resemble a radioactive mess. Now in their 18th year, this veteran earns respect for their Dim Sum and lavish Peking duck.

RUNNER UP: Dzonka

French

French food just hasn’t broken through in Warsaw in the way other European cuisines have. So, therefore, it’s a good job that there are two noteworthy candidates. For us though, L’Arc makes it first past the finishing post for their obsessive attitude to seafood, inventive mains and desserts that are heaven.

RUNNER UP: Bistro de Paris

Greek

Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value on things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. All of a sudden, their longevity makes sense.

RUNNER UP: Paros

Indian

Rain and Tandoor both have equally strong claims for this title, and if their post-summer resurgence continues expect a tight contest next year. But for year-round consistency there’s one winner, and that’s Curry House.

The vindaloo is the definitive ‘pain is pleasure’ affair, and could floor an

elephant. It helps that, in the sit-downand-eat stakes, the new Ursynów location is a considerable upgrade to the original in Bielany.

RUNNER UP: Rain / Tandoor

Italian

Warsaw has a huge appetite for Italian food, as proved by the obscenely high headcount of Italian eateries.

Unfortunately, most of them are fakers, maintained by hobby owners who once holidayed in Rome. But San Lorenzo is the real deal. True, you need more than spare change to enjoy it, but their reputation is clearly not ill-founded.

RUNNER UP: Delizia

Latin

Le Cedre

While increasingly well represented in the capital, Latin food has been pointed in a new direction by Casa Pablo. Breaking away from hackneyed clichés, the eclectic interior is reflective of a menu that places equal importance on flair, quality and elements of fine dining. An immensely enjoyable restaurant.

RUNNER UP: Ole Tapas

Middle Eastern

Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s two), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends.

RUNNER UP: Sokotra

Sushi

The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying, and are survived by the best. It speaks a lot for their consistency that with a few new and notable exceptions (Sushi Marina Mokotów, take an honorary bow), it’s the same old guard that continue to win the best approval ratings. Once again, Sushi Zushi win gold.

RUNNER UP: Sakana

Mexican

This category went to the wire, with Blue Cactus really impressing over the course of the year, not to mention Dos Tacos. But it’s the Tortilla Factory that pips it, thanks to a menu that’s been

L'Arc

tinkered with, slimmed and improved.

The tortillas are peerless, though the deciding factor is their salsa: the ‘heart attack’ option has you howling like a hellhound.

RUNNER UP: Blue Cactus

Thai

We’d love to announce that this was a tie (boom boom!), but despite a scattering of very exciting openings there’s nothing yet that competes on the same level as Natara Old Town.

If the interiors show a lack of taste, the food doesn’t. And it’s a happy trade-off, because where Thai food is concerned we value flavor over background design.

RUNNER UP: Thai Thai facebook.com/warsawinsider

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BROUGHT TO YOU BY CENTRUM WINA

Conde de Valdemar Reserva D.O.C. Rioja 2006 Spain, 98.90zł A wine from the most popular area in Spain – Rioja. It has an excellent bouquet of black fruit with sweet vanilla, cedar and spices. This is a great match for roasted meats and medium cheeses.

GRAPE EXPECTATIONS Specializing in the selection and distribution of the world’s finest wines, Centrum Wina brings to Poland the best wines from the most exciting international vineyards. Each wine is personally handpicked and approved by a team passionate about their profession, with the very highest quality assured.

Wines of the Month

Gancia P.R.Ose Piemont Italy, 49.90zł A delicate, sparkling wine with a pale pink colour – ideal as an aperitif or with fish dishes. Slightly aromatic and with a beautiful bouquet with hints of apples, peach and flowers.

www.centrumwina.com.pl www.facebook.com/CentrumWina

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

Masi Campofiorin Ripasso I.G.T. Rosso Del Veronese 2009 Italy, 79.90zł An extremely versatile and elegant wine. Ripe, fresh fruit and raisins are equally prominent on the nose as well as sweet spices, especially vanilla and cinnamon. Perfect with many different dishes such as pasta, grilled or roasted red meats and mature cheeses.

Wilanów

NEIGHBORHOOD

Those new to Warsaw can get used to hearing a lot about Wilanów. Though primarily famed for its palace and spectacular church, this is not just a district stuck in the past – recent expansion has been conducted at a meteoric rate, with swathes of new developments attracting a young, well-off crowd.

U

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX WEBBER

nassuming apartment blocks aren’t where you’d usually expect to find the sweetest of pain (not that kind of pain anyway), but the Big Potato has long been a place where you can confidently expect the unexpected; set in its suburban location Spoco Loco is where Warsaw chilli-heads come for arguably the city’s finest endorphin rush.

We’ve never understood how a food as simple as Tex-Mex can go as badly wrong as most places in Poland get it. What strange power drags cabbage into each and every meal? Fortunately, Spoco Loco don’t even allow cabbage onto the premises, let alone into their food. Expect fresh tortillas stuffed

with everything you’d want and nothing you wouldn’t. While the crispy tacos and the quesadilla are both excellent choices, our top tip is the soft taco, possibly the best way to spend zł. 15.90 in Warsaw. And forget about spending zł. 30 on burritos the size of a cigarette packet: the regular size here will

more than fill most stomachs while the zł.

24.90 burrito grande is good for two meals.

But the food isn’t what draws people from all over the city: it’s the seven sauces on offer. While the roasted tomatoes of number one and smokey Jalapeno flavour of sauce number two are sure to perk up your taste-buds, the Chipotle-based number three is the first where the word ‘spice’ starts to apply and is recommended “for beginners”. The piri-piri flavours of number four are hot enough for most civilians. Sauce five (based on habanero, yes that same pepper which is usually the killer punch) is about the same heat level you’ll get from visiting an Indian restaurant here and saying “Go on then chief: kill me.

Hot as you can make it.” Expect to break a light-ish sweat. Sauce six? Get ready for the pain. Until last year, the naga jolokia was the hottest pepper known to mankind and that’s what you’ve just stuck in your mouth.

You mug. Sauce seven isn’t just in a different league to other hot sauces: it’s a whole different game. Apparently based on pure evil, it frankly should be illegal. Agony hits in seconds; to quote a Jeremy Clarkson-ism, after a minute you fear you might die… after a few minutes, you fear that you won’t. And even if you do somehow finish your meal, you won’t be the first person to do that and then be found on the pavement outside curled up like a foetus and with his face in a puddle: just ask our editor.

The only real drawback of Spoco Loco is the lack of a licence, although the virgin margaritas do taste pretty good and are fairly effective at combatting the napalm that’s been ingested. Buy two: you will need them both. Actually, buy a few. One last thing, remember that seriously hot sauce burns twice – store some toilet paper in the fridge as soon as you get home. (CS) Spoco Loco ul. Sarmacka 10, tel. 887 447 447, open 11:00-21:00, www.spocoloco.pl

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NEIGHBORHOOD DRINK & DINE Bistecca Bistro ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.bistecca.pl It happened so suddenly. Warsaw went from meat loser to meat lover in the space of a year. Bistecca, opened over 2 years ago, was one of the early pioneers, and to date remains one of the best.

That people travel from well outside Wilanów to sample its delights speaks volumes. Pride of place goes to their signature Bistecca steak: a one kilo T-Bone shaped joint with strip steak on one side and tenderloin on the other. For the thrill of DIY tableside cooking, order one of their ‘various kinds of meat grilled over volcanic stone’.

Castello ul. Wiertnicza 96, tel. 22 885 7505, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.castello.pl Castello belongs to a select band of restaurants that are better known for

their outrageous architecture than anything else. And yes, this place is a head turner.

Decorated with a wooden ‘castle tower’, it’s a miracle that this adventurous piece of design hasn’t caused any traffic accidents.

Increasingly passé in an area swelled by contemporary Italian food, it’s by no means a catastrophe; you’ll just find better elsewhere.

China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.chinagarden.pl Bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws.

Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for the brave. Allegedly the first Jiangsu restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes here are indeed unique. The China Garden isn’t the Imperial Palace, but the décor of straightbacked chairs and densely constructed wood tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging about here; serious eating is afoot! On the whole the dishes are delicate and delicious, and there are more cautious choices.

Il Fornello ul. Branickiego 9, tel. 22 404 1333,

ul. Branickiego 9 lok.158 tel. 22 404 13 33 www.fornello.pl Mon-Thur 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00

open 11:00-22:00, www.fornello.pl Situated on Wilanów’s new restaurant strip, Il Fornello is a little less showy in its offer than its competitors, trotting out a rather standard series of Italian staples. Not that this should be construed as criticism: there’s no reason for needless overkill here, instead the chef settles for doing the basics and doing them well – nothing complicated and no surprises, just very decent food in a calm white interior that alludes to an Italian country cottage.

La Vinuela ul. Klimczaka 5, tel. 22 258 0017, open 11:0022:00 A pleasant Wilanów wine bar whose stark look is balanced out by a short, concise menu that compliments the comprehensive choice of European and New World wines.

Definitely recommended is the salmon served with raspberry sauce and Dijon mustard.

Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, open 12:00-last guest, www.nowakuznia. pl A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. In season, the summer terrace is magical, and the place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. But beware the mosquitoes – they’re nasty buggers out here.

Oficyna Kuchenna ul. Stanisław Kostka Potocki 10/16, tel. 511 740 796, open 10:00-last guest Located in what once functioned as the palace kitchen, Oficyna have sought to bring to life the dishes of times gone by. Utilizing the palace libraries, they’ve uncovered 300 year old recipes and have updated them using modern methods and natural products.

Ohh Sushi! ul. Wiertnicza 102, tel. 22 642 16 18, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.ohhsushi.pl Operating since 1998, Ohh Sushi is categorized as one of Warsaw’s original Japanese joints. Opened long before the popularization of sushi, this veteran saw the boom, survived the crash and never broke sweat. Let their longevity speak for itself.

ul. Przyczółkowa 400 tel. 888 723 723 www.tasteburger.pl, kontakt@tasteburger.pl Open every day: 12:00 - 22:00

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Pod Karabelą ul. Przyczółkowa 394, tel. 663 738 643. Open 11:00-22:00. In an area defined by gleaming new build and fashionable openings, Pod Karabelą is something of a throwback. There’s a stubborn sense of tradition here, one characterized by gloomy interiors peppered with

oil paintings, scabbards and miscellaneous touches usually reserved for backwater bars.

Modern Warsaw feels a long way away, but you get the feeling that’s something appreciated by the assembly of grumbling regulars Pub Złoty Król ul. Kostki Potockiego 27, tel. 22 842 1852, open 11:00-23:00 You wonder how long PZK can continue to operate in their current guise. Attached to the sad-looking Restauracja Wilanów, Złoty Król largely depends on passing tourist traffic – the locals, it seems, gave up on it moons ago. Looking sad and funereal, you can’t help but think they’re wasting both their location and catchment area.

15:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00.

This wine bar/shop comes with the requisite wood fitting and boxes of stock lying about very urbane, and so very Warsaw. In keeping with the young, upwardly spirit of the area, the featured wines lean towards emerging producers from the New World, though some oldies are represented. Found on the deck floor of an upmarket residential block, the crowd is typically yachtie/casual.

Spoco Loco ul. Sarmacka 10, tel. 887 447 447, open 11:00-21:00, www.spocoloco.pl It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears.

Then the real pain begins and doesn’t retreat until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with serious respect. But this causal eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are the real deal, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment.

Taste Burger ul. Przyczolkowa 400, tel. 888 723 723, open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.tasteburger.pl Warsaw’s expanding burger culture breaches the borders of Wilanów with the opening of Taste Burger, a casual eatery with a neighborhood buzz – local twenty something’s sink into deckchairs while taking subtle tactical bites on such standouts as the shrimp burger.

Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 400 1122, open daily 11:30-22:30, www.taste.pl To leave a restaurant fortified is to be expected; to leave delighted is the mark of quality. With a clever L-shaped interior, a natural terrace and a gleaming white ceramic kitchen it looks good, but it’s the food that earns the plaudits.

Dominik Moskalenko, the executive chef who cut his teeth on Amber Room has been a central part of this creation from the beginning and the fruits of his labor are mouth-watering.

Fish sit prominently on his menu and account for an astonishing 60% of sales. And rightly so: they’re phenomenal.

Wine O’Clock ul. Hlonda 2, tel. 505 913 692, open Mon-Fri

W Kropki Bordo ul. Zaściankowa 96, tel. 502 111 073, open 10:00-19:00, www.wkropkibordo.pl The young demographic of Wilanów always meant that a kids café was in the pipeline, and so here you go. Filling a binary role as a toyshop/bookstore, this jaunty little spot features matted play areas, sofas and a whole flotilla of cakes and desserts made of natural produce.

ul. Kazachska 1 tel. 22 400 1122 www.taste.pl, rezerwacja@taste.pl Open everyday from 11:30-22:00

ul. Adama Branickiego 11 tel. 22 115 0505 www.basico.pl Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00

ul. Adama Branickiego 11 tel. 22 258 1243 www.bistecca.pl Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00

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FOODIE NEWS A collaboration between two of Warsaw’s best known restaurant blogs (restaurantica.pl and froblog.pl), Warsaw Foodie has emerged as the No. 1 site for local food related stories. Featuring all the latest from the foodie frontline, the bilingual Warsaw Foodie promises the hottest news on what’s trending on the restaurant radar. For more info, check: www.warsawfoodie.pl/en

Anything but Norma-l

Concept 13

Culinary expert and slow food activist Kuba Korczak is the man behind Norma, a place that marries Polish, Italian and Asian influences with total and unequivocal success. The won ton with basil and feta is described by restaurantica as “divine, delicate and melt in your mouth,” and the półgęsek / tagliatelle / pecorino is declared “to die for.” Find Korczak’s project on Wierzbowa 9/11.

Five of the Best: Carpaccio with a Twist Chianti (Foksal 17) Chef Samuele Mariani prepares an interesting lamb carpaccio in re-launched Chianti served alongside a salad of pickled eggplant in olive oil.

Basico (Branickiego 11) Not always available, look out on the blackboard for Adam Przybysz’s carpaccio of tuna served along with capers and parsley.

Concept 13 (Bracka 9) On the top floor of the luxury Vitkac department store, chef Dariusz Baranski explores venison themes this season, with the venison carpaccio a highlight.

Bistro de Paris (Piłsudskiego 9) French chef Michel Moran also serves this dish as dessert, using fresh pineapple for the carpaccio, and complimenting it with fresh thyme and lemon sauce.

Return to Roots

W Gruncie Rzeczy (Hoża 62) is a vegan haven whose menu is heavily slanted towards local produce. The offer includes a number of vegan pastes, sandwiches, beetroot burgers and soups (e.g. cream of pumpkin with coconut milk). On weekdays look for the zł. 20 twocourse lunch menu.

Taste of Toruń Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is now the tenth operation to be launched under the Manekin banner.

After a successful November that saw queues snaking out of the door, this venue – located on Marszałkowska 140 – touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet and savory form: there’s even a spaghetti pancake! Sister blog restaurantica.pl warns of waiting times in excess of 40 minutes, “but for true pancake gourmands not even that should be a deterrent.”

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF WARSAW FOODIE EXCEPT TOP LEFT KEVIN DEMARIA

Signature (Poznańska 15) For his autumn/winter menu Wojciech Kilian has shown an appreciation for game – his carpaccio utilizes loin of wild boar marinated in red wine.

Reviews: Ave Pizza 41/ Pestka 58 Plus:

* 10 updates

RESTAURANTS

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

AFRICAN 42 / AMERICAN 42 / ASIAN 42 / BALKAN & RUSSIAN 46 / BRITISH 46 / BURGERS 47 / CHEAP EATS 48 / COOKING SCHOOLS 67 / CUBAN 50 / FOOD SHOPS 66 / FRENCH 50 / GERMAN 50 /GREEK & TURKISH 50 / HOME DELIVERY 46 / INDIAN 50 / INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 52 / ITALIAN 57 /JAPANESE & SUSHI 59 / LATIN 60 / MIDDLE EASTERN 61 / POLISH 61 / SCANDINAVIAN 66

“ It's even endorsed by Warsaw’s notoriously picky Italian community”

Insider’s Pick

I

’ve seen some serious crimes out in Warsaw, some serious crimes against cooking. And in my mind, few culinary sectors carries a higher risk of error than pizza. To the untrained eye this is a simple food, which explains why only kebab shops and sushi stops outnumber the pizzerias. But this prevalence of pizzas does not mean Warsaw has mastered them – far from it. Doubt me, then check out Momo – it’s like gnawing on a car tire that’s been lathered with road kill. But times are changing. The bar has been raised. First, by the Rucola chain, then later

by La Bufala. Then came Mąka i Woda and rewrote the rules: that Wojciech Amaro shows up with his family is a pretty solid tribute. But you know what, there is better out there.

Acting on a tip from warsawfoodie.pl, I found myself in Powiśle in November.

It’s not an area I particularly like (I don’t wear skinny jeans or big glasses, so the locals see me as an outsider and a threat),

but the stories I’d heard were too good to ignore. And I’m so glad I didn’t. L-shaped in size, myself and Mrs Insider chose the more private part to the back – it’s a dark and dimmed space, fashionably sparse, with white wall tiles and eclectic wallpaper climbing to the exposed pipes above. For a casual date, it feels right.

The menu is a simple laminated affair with eleven ‘pizze rosse’ and eight ‘pizza biance’ on one side, and a selection of snacks and salads on the other. Wanting something a little lively I opt for the

Diavolo, the partner for the antipasti. The latter arrives on a wooden board, groaning heavily with capers, cheeses and sundried tomatoes. There is no criticism: this is on a par with Warsaw’s ‘legitimate’ restaurants.

But it is the pizza that becomes the center of conversation. This is a remarkable affair: singed on the edges, with a vibrant tomato sauce and plenty of extra woomph from the spicy salami and fresh pepperoncini.

I’m full, but also stunned – stunned by the size of the bill, which is considerably smaller than an order from one of the high street pizza cowboys. For this reason I order a take-out, just a standard margherita. I eat it cold, the next morning, but even so I can recognize its greatness. Which is why I did the unthinkable – I returned a few hours later to see how good it was fresh from the oven. In short, it felt like one of those moments I’d outsmarted the rest of Warsaw by eating something so good. The cost of this pleasure: zł. 18.

Since then, I’ve been back several times, with a routine order settled – margherita and a calzone. And I keep coming back in spite of a home delivery option being added that expands to my area. Why? Because to see Lino and Fabio, two experts who come from a family of pizza makers, is quite a thrill. Endorsed even by Warsaw’s notoriously picky Italian community, what they’ve come up with is Warsaw’s best pizza. (AW).

Ave Pizza ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, open 10:00-22:00.

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RESTAURANTS AFRICAN Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, open 10:00-23:00, www.cafebaobab.pl Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $ La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, open Mon 13:00-24:00; Tue-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-23:00, www. lamama.eu Sprayed with racist graffiti over

summer, it was heartening to see the local community rally round in support of the owners. As for food, that’s an authentic rundown of dishes that include baked cow back and gizzard. Unfortunately, it’s just not to our taste: the goat stew felt like one big mistake.

Judging by the repeat custom, not everyone shares our view. $$

AMERICAN Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel.

22 630 5119, open 12:00-24:00, www. champions.pl Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, www.hardrockcafe. pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, open 9:00-24:00, www.jeffs.pl Head to Jeff’s for supersize portions from the ribs and wings class. Portions might be big, but don’t anticipate any further thrills with regards to the food. $ Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri & Sat 11:0023:00; Sun 11:00-22:00, www.sioux.com. pl You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef. Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, open Mon-Thu 12:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 12:0002:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.someplaceelse.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$

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T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360, open Mon & Tue 11:00-23:00; Wed-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.tgifridays.pl/ warszawa The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, and even the burgers can’t compare to Warsaw’s armada of burgeries. And the interiors are just as you’d remember: crass, vulgar and stuck in the 90s. Why do people bother? $$

ASIAN Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120, open 9:00-21:00 One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food.

Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:3023:00; Sun 12:30-22:00, www.cesarskipalac. com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes to an elegant backdrop.

The Dim Sum are something else. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.chinagarden.pl See Wilanów section, p. 31 to p. 33.

Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 447 2424, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-22:00 A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ InAzia (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Hotel), tel. 22 450 6705, open Mon-Sat 17:00-23:00; Sun 12:30-16:30, www.restauracja-inazia.pl The Sheraton has a rich history of serving some of Warsaw’s best Asian food, with chef Marcin Sasin creating a menu that draws

on influences as diverse as Indonesian, Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese. Popular with Thai diplomats and hushed hotel guests, the experience is worth the quite considerable splurge. $$$ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.lovinghut.waw.pl What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. $ Natara Old Town (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501, open 11:00-23:00, www.natara.pl Set inside the Old Town walls, the setting is magical – from the outside. Inside, it’s all dowdy brown and plastic plants. Service, if you can call it that, teases patience to the max, but the food is fantastic. Everything we’ve tried on the menu goes right, not least the fiery red curry duck.

Highly recommended. $$

Naam Thai ul. Saska 16, tel. 505 110 100, open 12:0023:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 Not to be defeated by the closure of Sunanta, Bangkok chef Chanunkan Dunagkumma makes a quick return to this cookery lark with Naam Thai. While spices have been blanded down to fit the local palette, it’s been a promising start. Look for the roast duck soup – made according to a closely guarded secret family recipe. $$ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, open 12:0024:00, www.papaya.waw.pl A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya have softened the interiors a little, giving the aesthetics a less rigid look. The menu is a considerable success and includes sushi, kobe beef and a much talked about Peking duck. Our advice, however, is to check out Poland’s only teppanyaki grill. $$ Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, open 12:00-22:00, www.pekinduck.pl Looks like a

typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude. The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, open 12:00-22:30. shabu-shabu.pl Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $ Silk & Spicy (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-2:00, www.silkandspicy.pl If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream

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Brought to you by Moet Hennessy

Past & Present Perfect

At a glittering reception hosted in one of Warsaw’s top restaurants, Hennessy’s global Brand Ambassador introduced a select, high society crowd to the Hennessey collection.

O

n a crisp autumn night, members of the media and Warsaw’s haut monde gathered at The Harvest on the invitation of Hennessy. Coinciding with the visit of Mr. Fabien Levieux, the global Brand Ambassador for the House of Hennessy, the event was specifically arranged to showcase Hennessy’s portfolio; not least, their Paradis Imperial cognac, an exceptional blend with a stately story.

THE EVENING

With a customized menu created by the revered Robert Trzópek, the evening was

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an unqualified celebration of luxury.

Acquainting guests with the brand, a tasting of Hennessy’s catalogue of cognacs was accompanied by insights into their creation – complex and compelling, the story left guests with little doubt as to the meticulous attention to detail invested in the brand. Adding to the ceremonial nature of the dinner, the climax of the event was reached in breathtaking fashion, with the presentation of the Hennessy Paradis Imperial – delivered to the restaurant by a cloaked horseman. Defined by its, ‘elegant, subtle sophistication’, this noble eaux-de-vie came served with a gold-plated crystal flute, and left all those invited united in admiration.

THE BACKGROUND

Described as ‘the crowning achievement of generations of genius in the Fillioux family’, the creation of this cognac can be directly attributed to one man’s curiosity. So it goes, while on route to the Hennessey cellar, master blender Yann Fillioux paused to recall an anecdote concerning an Empress whose life was entirely devoted to beauty. On her orders, James Hennessey was asked to devise an ‘excellent, very old, gold-colored eau-devie of the very finest quality’. The task was entrusted to Jean Fillioux.

With his interest aroused, Yann Fillioux made the decision to investigate further. Leafing through piles of archived journals, Fillioux stumbled across his ancestor’s notepad. The tome, dated from 1818, contained references to Empress Maria of Imperial Russia, and details that the cognac requested was to be a bespoke birthday gift for her son, Alexander I, on the occasion of his 42nd birthday. Exhilarated by his discovery, Fillioux pledged to resurrect this bygone cognac.

THE RESULT

Matured in old casks, this eaux-de-vie comes with a subtle oak tint, and aromas of jasmine, orange blossom and other flowery notes. Balanced with smoky accents, the persistence of the finish is exquisite, more so considering the delicacy of its texture. As one would imagine, the decanter is not an afterthought either.

Stéphanie Balini was commissioned to create it, and her design involves Baccarat crystal and an 18 carat gold-plated label.

‘Both statuesque and majestic,’ says Balini, ‘it naturally evokes the splendour of the Imperial Court.’

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RESTAURANTS Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option.

Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0000, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland.

Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24hr pizza delivery options also available.

Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl.

Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers.

Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory.

Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl.

Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts).

Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus. Restaurants covered by this mob Home of as theRain Thursday inc. players such

by India Curry, Curry Club Osteria, Warsaw Papaya and Sakana.

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cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.suparomthaifood.pl Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II al. Wilanowska 309, tel. 22 853 3087, open 10:00-21:00, www.suparomthaifood. pl Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming.

Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, open 12:0023:00, www.thaithai.pl Sanad Changpuen, a man widely credited with popularizing Thai food in Poland, returns to Warsaw with predictable results: the food is a hit. And what a space this acclaimed chef has been blessed with: gold vaulted ceilings lend a muted glow to a largely black-on-black space; from the walls, serene looking Buddha’s peer on diners down below. At once, the soothing interiors ease guests into a state of inner peace while Sanad does the rest. $$ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307, open Mon-Fri 9:30-21:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:30 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.whythai.pl A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the levels one expects. $$ Yummy (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 797 830 639, open 10:00-21:00, www.restauracjayummy.pl The Insider’s favorite budget Asian eatery, even if the empty tables suggest dark forces at work in the kitchen. Modern and minimal,

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

the lemon chicken is delicious and the pad thai is a sure bet. $

BALKAN & RUSSIAN Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.banjaluka.pl Numerous meaty dishes from Serbia and Croatia are served inside Banja Luka, a Warsaw stalart who’ve moved with the times and... moved. The new, central location is as pleasing as the last, with lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics. $$ Gemo ul. Minska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 22 468 1876, open 12:00-22:00, www.gemorestaurant.pl At last, a Georgian restaurant without gnarled furniture and peasant fabrics. Located inside Soho Factory, Gemo has a severe, industrial style accented further by steel lights and exposed pipework. The menu is modestly priced, yet includes several dishes to return for: the szaszlyk, for one. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, open Mon 11:30-20:00; Tue & Wed 11:30-21:00; Thu & Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.umadziara.pl Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, but there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen. The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing compared to his signature goulash. Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $

BRITISH The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsummer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open

Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest, www.legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

BURGERS Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; 13:00-21:00, www.barnburger.pl What finished summer 2012 as Warsaw’s most talked about burger has seen its stock nosedive somewhat.

Even so, you’ll still find several people out there who remain fiercely loyal to their quite considerable offer. On our part, the Insider remains partial to the occasional Muppet Burger: a messy affair loaded with salsa, jalapenos and BBQ sauce. By the time you’ve finished with it, the wooden board it’s served on will look like Jack the Ripper has just passed through town. $

Chef Marcin Legat has been cooking for 19 years, with the last eight spent in the restaurants of Warsaw. His work has been recognized by numerous awards in nationwide competitions.

Bobby Burger (C4) ul. E. Plater 47, tel. 785 833 603, pen 12:00-22:00, bobbyburger.pl Perplexingly popular with hipsters who wouldn’t know a good burger if their skinny jeans depended on it. Now sporting a new location (the old one on Żurawia also continues, alas), this bottom feeder continues to prove popularity isn’t always a measure of quality. $ Brooklyn Burgers & Wings (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 270 2144, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:004:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 There are those out there who claim Brooklyn to be the best burger in Warsaw – and we’re not talking about hipsters on longboards, but American ex-pats who really know the score. And yes, what you get with Brooklyn is something very good indeed – maybe not the best, but in a city with quite probably 70-odd burger bars, it’s certainly Top 3. That’s largely thanks to Alan, a young American chef wholly dedicated to his job. Homemade sauces, wings, ribs, strips and beer (inc.

Sam Adams!). $

Burger Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Wed 7:30-23:00; Thu-Fri 7:30-1:00; Sat 9:001:00; Sun 9:00-20:00, www. burgerkitchen.pl The burger trend hasn’t even crested, and that’s not a problem so long as there are talents like Tomek Woźniak around.

His is a menu that considers everything from light, nutritious breakfasts, all the way up to sticky Hoisin chicken wings. His global travels are reflected in an outstanding offer that presents such details as homemade ketchup and authentic guacamole. As for the burger front, that involves matured, hand formed Angus meat, soft buns and sprinklings of caramelized onion and Mimolette cheese. It’s a fun, casual space with an appreciation of words like organic and nature. $ Bydło i Powidło (A5) ul. Kolejowa 47, tel. 22 400 48 44, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00 Set in a modern glass prism, here’s a place that’s realized you can’t get away with just serving

How would you define the food at Secado?

I’d define it as author’s cuisine based on Spanish and American inspirations.

Tell us about the restaurant…

Secado means ‘drying’ which refers to our meat – preparing it this way takes at least four weeks. Our specialty is Iberico ham which comes from the best quality pigs in the world. But we’re also very proud of the Secado Pot, which comes filled with mussels, shrimps and sea bream: a rare and special combination.

And what else can we expect?

We’ve got cameras in the kitchen so guests can watch what and how we’re cooking on special TV’s. We’ve also got a very special cocktail bar with house specials inspired by Spain.

How many people can fit into Secado?

We’ve got room for 150 people in three rooms plus a special smoking area. And the space isn’t just suitable for food and drinks, but also for corporate events and conferences – it can even be utilized for film and photo shoots!

ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.facebook.com/secado

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RESTAURANTS burgers anymore (though here, they’re very good indeed). Unfortunately, the steak part of the menu just isn’t there yet. Ćwierćfunciak (C1) ul. Andersa 30, tel. 799 328 822, open Mon-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 Hidden in the gastronomic wasteland of Muranów, the impossibly named Ćwierćfunciak impresses with slathers of gloriously fresh ingredients, not to mention complimentary sides of hand-cut chips. Ranked in the Insider’s Top 5 best burger joints, that the resident beers are sourced from Pinta earns this friendly local a few extra points. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Sat 12:0020:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.warburger.pl Forget Year of the Dragon, 2012 was Year of the Burger – or more specifically, Year of the WarBurger. Edging the competition (at least till Burger Kitchen came along), this diminutive little cabin wins eulogies across the board for base-level prices, super friendly service and pimped up burgers that use gourmet

ingredients. $ Queen Burger (E5) ul. Hoża 1a, tel. 733 142 492, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00 A new face over summer, and one joyously received by Warsaw’s burger aficionados.

The look screams US roadside diner, but inside it’s all young city style mavens. The choice extends to house specialties such as gringo, teriyaki and femiburger, though our advice to meatheads is to simply stick to the classic cheeseburger: it’s a towering stack of ultra-satisfaction. We’ve experienced nightmarish waiting times, but like WarBurger, that’s just added proof they’re doing something very right. $

CHEAP EATS Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580, open daily 11:00-21:00. ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel. 22 898 3001, open daily 11:0022:00 So it’s a kebab shop, but when the

kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $

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Diner 55 (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 Here’s the sort of alliance we like to see: Diner 55 brings together Rico’s Tacos, Mr Pancake and Panburger under one roof. But you may need to be of a certain age to enjoy it – operating a hipster only policy (not really, but you get the point), it’s loud, dark and full of fashionable kids. Waiting times can be silly, as well. $ Fabryka Frytek (D4) ul. Złota 3, tel. 505 671 334, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. ul. Waryńskiego 9, tel. 505 671 334, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. fabrykafrytek.pl Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $

Our bar offers more than 700 kinds of branded spirits and the longest list of champagnes in Poland.

Our chefs offer a wide range of seafood and specialties of Polish cuisine, as well Kobe beef steak or New York style steak!

Ignite your senses with tempting food and superior drinks in an exclusive atmosphere.

20% discount with a copy of the Warsaw Insider Open 7 days a week from 4:00 pm till the last guest.

NEW ORLEANS Bar & Restaurant

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Warszawa, ul. Zgoda 11 tel. +48 600 063 667

www.neworleans.pl info@neworleans.pl

Friterie (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 794 158 813, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00 Served in paper cones, the Belgian-style chips come with that inimitable double-fried crunch and a range of sauces that merit experimentation: try the ‘Andaluse’. $ Groole (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.groole.pl You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $ Justyna’s Secret Recipes (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 138, open Mon-Fri 7:0021:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00. www.jsecretrecipes.com We’re told Justyna was inspired by the Pret-a-Manger chain. Whatever the case, you just can’t fault her sandwiches which are fixed using proper imported bacon,

organic sundries, and the freshest of bread.

The delivery service is highly recommended for desk-bound officebots. $ Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.meatlove.pl An eco-minded sandwich stop, this intimate basement has a smart wooden look and friendly staff notable for their daring body art. The home-baked baguettes are the star, and come with a range of organic ingredients complimented with thick cuts of top quality animal. Roast beef, pulled pork and porchetta are just a few of your options. $ Mr Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, open MonSat 11:00-10:00; Sun 12:00-8:00, www.mrpancake.plLurking amid the side streets of Powiśle, the pancakes here are brilliant and come with a heap of toppings and funny faces traced into them with icing sugar. Who cares if the staff wander around like they’ve just smoked a bong – it’s great. $

Soul Food Bus ul. Marynarska 11, tel. 513 609 480, open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00. ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 501 201 975, open Mon-Sun 12:30-20:30 You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/bus. Their m.o is simple enough. Eleven types of burgers, and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later.

Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for their latest GPS. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, open 11:00-20:00, www. chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia.

And that’s a good thing! $ Wheel Meal www.facebook.com/wheelmealpl A Mexican food truck whose location varies with the day – check their Facebook. They’re worth tracing

CARPACCIO ul. Nowy Świat 36, 22 692 47 26

Classic Italian cuisine: the delicious, honest tastes of a true trattoria

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RESTAURANTS as the burritos are certainly a candidate for Warsaw’s best: and the sauces tingle as well. $

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Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-19:00 Imported German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh buns to go with them.

The currywurst is just like the one you had at Berlin Hauptbahnhof. $

CUBAN El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994. Open Mon-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-1:00; Sun 12:30-22:30 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

FRENCH L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, open 10:00-last guest, www.larc.pl Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. No-one complains, however. Pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the

fish tank for the lobster of your choosing.

An excellent venue, and one whose catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów. $$

GERMAN Adler (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, www.adlerrestauracja.pl Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

GREEK & TURKISH Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, open 12:00-last guest, www.paros-restauracja.pl Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look.

Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php It looks mildly dubious from the outside, but inside Santorini contains several

surprises. The style is hackneyed (think fisherman’s tavern), but there’s a real fun fizz in the air, splendidly positive / youthful service and lamb chops that just can’t be faulted. The milfei dessert is highly recommended. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 On the design front it’s almost a straight plagiary of Charlotte: white brickwork, blackboard, communal table. So the surprise here is the food – Turkish. And not just any Turkish, but brilliant Turkish!

It’s nothing fancy, but there’s a real honest quality to the moussaka and lamb and beef in tomato sauce. And the desserts are a real spoiler as well. $

INDIAN Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, open 11:00-23:00, www.bombajmasala.pl With wide spaces and slick finishes Bombaj Masala takes its inspiration from the gleaming district, not (like most its competitors) from Santa’s Grotto. The food polarizes opinion, though most agree the prices don’t reflect the quality, and that the spices won’t scorch. $$ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 11:00-

Le Cedre 84

Le Cedre 61

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99 lecedre84@lecedre.pl

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66 lecedre@lecedre.pl

Taste the Exotic

www.lecedre.pl

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

PARMIZZANO’S – LITTLE ITALY IN WARSAW 45-minutowy lunch od poniedzia³ku do pi¹tku w godzinach 12:00-15:00 2 dania w cenie 55 PLN, 3 dania w cenie 65 PLN. Codziennie nowe menu.

45-minute lunch from Monday to Friday 12:00 AM-3:00 PM 2 courses at 55 PLN, 3 courses at 65 PLN. New menu everyday.

WARSAW MARRIOTT HOTEL Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 00-697 Warszawa Rezerwacje/Reservations: +48 22 630 5096 www.warsawmarriott.com, www.warsawmarriott.pl

RESTAURANTS 24:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl Not only does Chmielarnia house some of the world’s best beers (see Nightlife), but also – as the shrine by the door may suggest – a very good restaurant. Sure, you’re eating in a dark and loud beer cellar (to us that’s a bonus), but the Nepalese chef Ram knows what he’s doing. And aside from Indian and Nepalese staples, there’s a menu tailor-made for the beer swiggers. $

open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-21:00, www.mandalaklub. com or www.indiaexpress.pl Keen, supersize portions and an efficient home delivery service (indiaexpress.pl) have made this lot something of a bookmark. Not dissimilar from the curries you may have survived on as a student, Mandala are cheap and decent, though several rungs below the top curries in town – it’s a half-decent means to an end. $

Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al. Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open daily 11:00-22:00, curryhouse.com.pl It’s through happy little tears the Insider declares Curry House as the overall victor in the local curry wars. The vindaloo stands apart as Warsaw’s most macho curry, and has been known to provoke spontaneous combustion. The other dishes are equally superb, and with this quality on show it’s easy to overlook the primary design and lunar location. For those on the other side of town – Ursynów direction – they’ve now got a decent sit-down location at Al. KEN 47. $

Namaste India (D1 & D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, tel. 22 635 7766, open 10:30-23:00, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 357 0939, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:30; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. namasteindia.pl A ferociously loyal customer base proclaim this as their favorite curry in town. Highly recommended, find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $

Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, open 12:00-22:00, www.ganesh.pl To tell the story of Ganesh is to tell the story of what could have been. After a scintillating start which saw it declared one of the best curries ever, Ganesh find themselves trapped in a backward motion, with quality sacrificed in exchange for an aggressive expansion right across Poland. Looking chic and dark, it’s arguably one of the best looking Indian restaurants there is. But the food, oh dear.

A convention of the New Warsaw Curry Club saw it score a collective 5/10, with particular lowlights including the discovery of a ‘thing’ in the murgh makhanawala – was it bone? A thumbnail? We’re none the wiser. $$ Himalaya Momo ul. Ząbkowska 36, tel. 22 297 2100, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-21:30, www.himalayamomo.com There’s only four tables here, so don’t linger. The size means several staples have been cut from the menu, among them naan bread – there’s no space for a tandoor over, you see. What kind of Indian restaurant forgets a tandoor oven? In this case, a very good one. What does appear on the Tibetan / Indian menu is usually delicious. $ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 22 428 44 54,

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Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl Ray Bridgeford, the former owner of the legendary Sense, is the man behind the miraculous resuscitation of India Curry. Fresh contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy aesthetic, but it’s the menu that’s become the talk of the expats. Our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in ANY Indian restaurant, but that’s not all… lending this place serious credentials as Warsaw’s best Indian are a feisty vindaloo and initiatives such as the Thursday night Rain Curry Club (zł. 69 for curry, breads and starters), and their zł. 25 Tiffins lunch deals. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22 825 2375, open 12:00-22:30, www.tandoor.com.pl The legendary Tandoor Palace is dead! From the ashes, rises Tandoor. It’s not just the interiors that have been modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup, a thick warming broth, before moving to the chicken sholay kebab… coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table. For mains, the murgh duo is equally artistic and even better in taste. Traditionalists will approve as well: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable chicken tikka butter masala. $$

INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 4/Czwarte ul. Piaseczynska 71, tel. 22 100 3139,

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

open daily 9:00-21:00, www.4czwarte. pl 4/Czwarte sits smack in the middle of Warszawianka’s 29 tennis courts. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it can be rather motivating to eat and drink to the plop of the tennis balls. Chef Kinga Araucz brings a fresh eye to food in Warsaw, and her modern menu combines well with the pleasantly congenial atmosphere and sharp interior. $$ 12 Stolików ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 795 373 815, open 9:00-23:00 Affecting a boutique style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that promotes cooking as a form of theater.

The menu is chalked on a board, and while alio olio was overcooked, the big guns came out for the steak: a very decent piece of meat. Enjoyable enough, though nothing particularly memorable. $$ Akademia (E9) ul. Różana 2, tel. 22 828 99 11, open MonSat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. restauracjaakademia.pl The most high profile launch of 2013, with whole sections of street blocked off to keep the beautiful people from being molested by the public. But while the prevailing attitude is snooty, chef Grzegorz Nowakowski has done an excellent job on an artfully simple menu that fits seamlessly with the white-on-white interiors. $$ Bistecca Bistro ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.bistecca.pl See Wilanów section, p. 37 to p. 39.

Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3223, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00- 18:00, www.boathouse.pl For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of parkland. The menu is Mediterranean in style with strong hints of Italian, though how they fare having lost their French chef Luc remains to be seen. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl A posh looking bistro whose credentials are supported by crisp shirted staff, gleaming surfaces and zinc mirrors. The Fine de Claire oysters on a bed of fennel are outstanding,

but what catches the attention of the ex-pats is the English influence of an owner who once managed The Grill at London’s Dorchester Hotel. The Friday fish & chips win emphatic approval. The Sunday roast lacks gravy and consistency, and you may find yourself asking for extra red wine sauce to moisten the Yorkshire Pudding – but it’s worth the chance; when everything goes right it’s utterly victorious. $$$

wine.pl The most talked about restaurant of 2011 shows no sign of waning. Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach, and commonly considered the best in the city. In the evening, reservations remain recommended. $$

Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel 532 749 160, open Mon-Thu 11:30-2:00; Sat 15:00-5:00, www. bufetcentralny.pl With white tiles, an artsy carpentered bar and draftsman desk lamps hanging from the walls, Bufet certainly gets points for design. The Hungarian fish soup is delicious, while the chocolate soufflé is airy, gooey and all things nice. But choice diminishes quickly – get there early to order the ribs. $$

By The Way Bottega Kulinarna (E3) ul. Lipowa 7a, tel.

22 692 7239, open 12:00-22:00, www.bytheway.com.pl Everything here looks fantastic – the pared down interiors with their concrete greys and houndstooth touches, and the food. Oh yes, the food. There’s about five mains to hover on, the highlight being the duck breast. The meringue dessert is heaven, as well. $$

Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www.butcheryand-

Bydło i Poidło (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00;

Sun 13:00-21:00 Filled with rawhide and industrial undertones, this grown-up version of Bydło i Powidło (see Burgers), has its accent on more high-end meats: and by that we mean steaks. Hopefully, they’re an improvement on the ones served by their sister – we’ll be visiting soon to see. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct: five course set lunch menus from zł. 50, served between 11:00 and 16:00. Modern designer dining rarely gets better. $$$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, open 12:0024:00, www.derelefant.com A Titanic-sized restaurant with a disorganized menu that appears to have been devised by throwing darts at a cookbook: Mediterranean mezze,

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RESTAURANTS Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc. But if the menu is blurry, the cooking isn’t: it’s average/ acceptable to very good. The interiors are a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles, and frequently pack out to the rafters with families and other unwieldy groups. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745, open Mon-Fri for Breakfast 6:30-10:00; Sat 6:30-11:00, 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 12:0016:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00, dinner 18:00-23:00 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don't for one moment assume the offer ends with cows.

Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$ Duchnicka Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, duchnickawinebar. com Michał Budnik, a rising star with a bright future ahead, excels in this loft-style warehouse. His thrilling menu includes cappuccino soup, and a totally triumphant rack of lamb. $$ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, open Mon-Fri 7:30-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.

grill-co.com Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides.

Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$

*

The Harvest (L12) Domaniewska 34A (Ambassador Office Building), tel. 660 750 600, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri Sat 12:00-last guest, www. theharvest.pl A muted design of charcoal colors and concrete surfaces sets the scene for an upmarket experience exclusively enjoyed by the suit and tie brigade. Despite the corporate circle jerk, some of the food is bewilderingly good – the filet Rossini is pure luxury. True, you get the idea that chef Robert Trzópek (formerly El Bulli, Noma), has been told, “look bud, no crazy stuff out there,” but the lack of innovation is a minor quibble. We’ve been told once this newbie settles a bit to expect a more creative tasting menu. $$$

*

Hoża by Mondovino (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00 A vibrant space with service out of charm school and a head chef who knows his meat – Martin Gimenez Castro has had plenty of positive exposure this year on account of his appearances on Top Chef, and you can really see what the fuss is about eating one of his steaks. It’s a joyous sensation for red blooded eaters, and one equaled by an excellent wine selection. $$

An Exceptional Butcher shop!!!

100% fresh Polish Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef Quality lamb and veal Seasoned steak: New York, rib-eye, T-bone, filet mignon...

We look forward to seeing you!

Oś. Marina Mokotów ul. Przejazd 4 (next to the bank) Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 9:00-14:00 For telephone orders: 797 866 131

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

Jasna 24 (D4) ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447 24 41, open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0020:00, www.jasna24.pl Slick, modern and loungey in look, Jasna 24 has a creative menu that include the use of deliciously unexpected combinations. Roll up on Wednesday’s if you prefer your dinner served with a slice of live music. $$ Jolibord 33 ul. Potocka 33, tel. 690 306 005, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Tue-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. jolibord33.pl There’s a continental climate to Jolibord 33, a place whose name refers to district’s French connection (Żoliborz comes from the French, Joli Bord – or green bank).

The menu is more democratic in choice though, with international offerings that stretch from thick Hungarian meat stew to beautiful ricotta pancakes. The causal bistro style has been a hit with the locals. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, open Mon-Sun 12:00-15:00, 17:00-23:00, www. facebook.com/dwichlab Referred to by some as the “poor man’s Atelier Amaro”, this haunt has a high communal seating plan and a hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks – sometimes faster. The chef is known for his trial-and-error attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine. Go there. $$

*

La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel.

22 531 6070, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 7:00-11:00,12:0023:00, www.leregina.com Truly, one of the standout dining rooms of Poland. Many have commented on the Michelin quality of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s restaurant, and you may consider the lack of a star one of the puzzles of the modern world. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and is built for superlatives: the slow-roasted rack of Welsh lamb was one of our highlights of 2013. Find Oszczyk ably supported by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, and wonderfully charismatic staff. $$$ Muu Muu (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 465 1553, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.muumuu.pl The

place is sparky, fun and engaging: small in size, décor comprises of soft colors and light woods, not to mention a bar adorned with blackboard slogans such as ‘Eat Meat’ and ‘Love Bacon’. The heart of their act is meat, and steak appears in a variety of its forms: there’s T-Bone, bison, wagyu, etc. If you’re a vegetarian (or for that matter, a cow), run.

New it might be, but there’s a quiet assurance about Muu Muu: the proprietor knows he’s on a good thing, and he very well is. $$ Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, www.momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket. A new concept for Warsaw, it’s been a case of so far so good for Momu. $

*

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, open Mon-Fri

12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00, www.nolita.pl A swank center restaurant anchored on the skills of Jacek Grochowina – a young talent who honed his skills at the London Ritz. Looking chic and high end, advance bookings are recommended if you wish to enjoy this top-class experience.

Some of the tastes and sensations are utterly unexpected, with the Insider left speechless after enjoying the tuna tartar (zł.49) and aged beef fillet (zł. 97). The nine-course tasting menu is said to be out-of-this-world, and one of the reasons why some are rating this as Poland’s next Michelin hope. $$$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 500 200 200, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:0023:00, www.nowakuznia.pl See Wilanów section, p. 37 to p. 39.

Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00, www.passepartout.pl Looking like a business class waiting lounge, it’s easy to overlook

Passe Partout. But you’d be a fool to do so. Unassuming it might be, but there’s something clearly very right with the kitchen.

The diverse international menu has too many positives to count, though the Insider recommends the pork tenderloin: served with a blue cheese and balsamic sauce, it’s a plate licking meal. The back garden is a secret summer treat, so hard luck that it’s gone for now. $$ Piękna 56 (D6) ul. Piękna 56, tel. 22 412 0656, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.piekna56 The line between restaurants and wine bars is increasingly blurred, and here’s another opening that greys those boundaries further. Well considered interiors feature a tree (!), nude art and stacks of bottles of wine strategically planted around this warm womb-like space.

The menu is light and creative, with the biggest spend being a five star roast beef. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734 or 22 328 8730, open Mon-

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RESTAURANTS Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 17:30-23:00, www. platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless.

In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Po Prostu Zachęta (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.poprostuzacheta. pl Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean.

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.qchnia. pl Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.restaurant99.com Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit. No longer the top dog

for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$ Rozbrat 20 (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295, open MonFri 7:30-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.rozbrat20.pl Everything a restaurant should be – modern, but not too excessive, as well as traditional at the same time. Elegance emanates from everything and class glints off the silver champagne bowl and tasteful crockery. The menu is a contemporary, international affair, much like the crowd who appreciate it. $$ SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. 600 806 084, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00 Bistro, bakery, hangout. The cooling concrete interiors buzz throughout the day, with touches like communal tables well suited to the ascetic style. Owned by the same lot in charge of 6/12, there’s a similar commitment to good, healthy eating employed here. $$ Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, open 12:00-23:00, www.signaturerestaurant.pl Signature is the bottom line in understated luxury: cutlery by Eternum, original Marilyn photos shot by Milton Greene, 1950s Oswald chairs and reliefs dating from the days when this was the inter-war Soviet Embassy. But it’s the food that leaves the final impression.

Wojtek Kilian looks set to be Poland’s next big chef, and his cooking is simply extraordinary.

The menu stands to change soon, so we’re crossing our fingers that the foie gras duo survives any revisions. All things considered, the prices are a bargain. $$

*

Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. www.solec.waw.pl With all the hipsters mincing about it sure doesn’t look like a restaurant: diners line-up at the counter to order, before sitting down in a spontaneous looking interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games.

Chef Aleksander Baron is an absolute star, and his daily changing menu (hourly changing, even), presents soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients. His eye for good meat is undisputed, making it the best alternate dining experience you’ll see for a while. $$ Sowa & Przyjaciele (G8) ul. Gagarina 2, tel. 795 505 152, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www. sowaiprzyjaciele.pl It really looks the part, with warm lighting, soft colors and bare bulbs hanging from overhead cables. The positive impressions are further underlined by a sommelier with a sixth sense and a barnstorming menu that catches the attention. Sowa is one of the biggest names in Polish cooking, and you may fear he spends more time on TV than in his kitchen: with that in mind, we’re happy to report the main man emerging from the kitchen to share backslaps and bear hugs with the regulars who return. $$$

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Cesarski Palace has thrived in Warsaw for 18 years – from the outset we were the first to offer authentic Chinese dishes, including our signature Peking Duck which comes baked in a custom-made oven and served with pancakes, cucumbers, por and a special sauce.

Expect personalized service and special attention from the chef inside a restaurant sensitive to Feng Shui requirements. There’s nothing comparable to our perfect tastes!

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Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, open daily 13:00-22:00 www.stoldzielnia.pl A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with odd-shaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00, www.tamka.43.pl There is an inspiration here which causes guests to linger over their meal, explore it and wonder at it. Food isn’t the background; it is the centerpiece. While Robert Trzópek has left the kitchen, he’s been ably replaced by Rafał Hreczaniuk – his menu pitches modern techniques against traditional, primarily root ingredients. It’s pretty wonderful, though the prices are ambitious. $$$

the cooking is not a throwaway – the menu is heavily slanted towards Eastern European, and has winning pierogi and wonderfully thick goulash.

Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, open Mon-Fri 12:00 -22:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:00, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl There’s a real elegance to Villa Foksal, an upscale restaurant whose floor plan and garden have made them a favorite for corporate bashes and brand launches. The Vichyssoise with truffles is a prelude to mains like filet mignon in red wine sauce. $$$

Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachzska 1, tel. 400 1122, open 11:3022:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00, www.taste.pl See Wilanów section, p. 37 to p. 39.

Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 2500, open MonSat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera.pl There have been many reasons to get excited this year, and one of them has been the success of Winosfera. You may think wine is the main talking point here, but actually, it’s the chef: Jakub Adamczyk, an upcoming star who studied his trade in Michelin mainstay The Square. His menu is scintillating: ordering the beef tenderloin is a must, as is the rhubarb parfait. You’ll be happy to pay the heavy handed prices. $$$

U Chłopaków (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 115 9710, open 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00 Chłodna’s renaissance continues. Formerly a decrepit grocery store of the same name, Chłopaków is all exposed brick, sprigs of greenery and overhanging lamps. It’s a casual stop, but

Wootwórnia ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 697 259, open 10:00-22:00 The intimate Wootwórnia features a spontaneous menu whose principal consistency is an adherence to the motto of the owners: ‘eat well’. Offering a full urban chillout experience, here’s many

reasons to celebrate this menu: homemade pies, breakfasts and substantial mains leaking with goodness. $

ITALIAN Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$ Carpaccio (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 692 4726, open daily 12:00-last guest The Italian influence looms heavy here: the Italian owner patrols the restaurant floor, while Carmelo, a Sicilian, ensures nothing but excellence exits the wood-fired pizza oven. The quality of the hams is undisputed, as a try of the Parma ham bruschetta immediately proves. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www.delizia.com.pl The reasons for Delizia’s success are twofold: Luca and Lorenzo. Luca’s the front man, a charismatic chap and natural showman. In his hands, you’ll feel like a star. Then there’s Lorenzo, the chef out the back. Between the

A fresh taste of Italy in the heart of Poland

WWW.VAPIANO.PL

Insider_VP.indd 1

UL. Taśmowa 7 TeL: +48 22 356 10 50 warszawa@vapiano.pl

aL. jerozoLimskie 63 (róg z e.PLaTer) TeL: +48 22 852 49 65 warszawa2@vapiano.pl

gaLeria mokoTów UL. wołoska 12 TeL: +48 600 325 883 warszawa3@vapiano.pl

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RESTAURANTS pair of them they’ve turned this tiny little venue into Warsaw’s most convincing Italian enterprise. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, tasteful interiors and brilliant food: what more do you need? $$ Enoteka ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00, www.enotekapolska.pl The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$ Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27, open daily 13:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00), www. winiarnia-kotlownia.pl You’d never guess from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining. Set in

a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show. The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$ La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86, tel. 22 654 3277, open daily 11:00-23:00 On the right day you’ll find the ex-pat proprietors of Warsaw’s more refined Italian eateries using this for their pizza fix. It might not look like much, but its reputation speaks for itself. $ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-20:00 When Michelin starred chef Wojciech Amaro pops in with his family you know something is going right. Here the statement piece is a Stefano Ferrara Napoli

Insider Pick Pestka Organic Bistro ul. Bracka 6/8, tel. 691 706 900, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.organicbistro-pestka.pl

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ealthy living? My idea of a healthy lifestyle is downgrading from Marlboro Red to Marlboro Light. And when it comes to food, the only dieting advice I listen to is that of Miss Piggy: “Never eat more than you can lift,” advises Kermit’s muse, and I’m with her on that. My body is not my temple, KFC is. Clearly though, I’m a caveman. Poland, as a nation, is emerging from its days stuck in a nutritional nightmare and the proof lies in the groundswell of venues

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oven, used to maximum effect to create pizzas which have come to be considered amongst Warsaw’s best. Import ingredients like Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and Caputo flour add to the authenticity, and there’s a medley of other ‘staples from Naples’. $

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Mamma Marietta (C9) ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071, open 12:00-22:00, www.mammamarietta.com A scattering of tables make reservations recommended in Mamma Marietta, an informal looking restaurant with lugubrious interiors and solemn service. But the food, created by head chef Andrea, has an authenticity that’s rare in a city whose enthusiasm for Italian food isn’t always reflected by quality. The tomato soup starter, is deliciously thick and almost worth the trip itself. $$ Mezzo Italian Steakhouse ul. Sienkiewicza 5 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 756 3343, open daily 12:00-22:00 Tucked at the tip of Konstancin’s park, Mezzo’s wood-burning brick pizza oven constructed

that place value on the purity and provenance of their food. Places like Pestka.

Located on a busy city center side street, it’s a simple, soothing space of sparing decorations, light modern finishes and plenty of natural light that gushes through the windows in generous portions – it’s a setting the menu asks for. Eschewing the fat and lard that used to feature so prominently in local living, Pestka is all about organic: consider it a gateway to sensible living and a balanced diet. Utilizing ingredients sourced from traditional, family farms, the products used are free from pesticides, synthetic fertilizers, antibiotics and others nasties you wouldn’t want in your food. Even the fish is tested for high metal content.

Renouncing white sugar, sodium glutamate and flavor enhancers, there’s a vibrancy and vitality to the menu that’s made clear by the emphasis on freshness. Be that as it may, there is absolutely no point in leaving the house to dine if the food doesn’t taste good.

Is that a problem here? Certainly not. There’s a perky flavor to the pastas and salads, while soup is served with bio-baguettes that are baked on-site. Pancakes and corn tortilla wraps are also wellrepresented (and presented): we enjoyed a wholemeal crepe tightly fitted around a filling Italian sundried tomatoes and eggplant. Excellent. Matched with big glugs of unsweetened, naturally pressed blackcurrant juice, it all tasted so right. Meanwhile the partner, a piergoi perfectionist, found praise for their vegan chickpea pierogi (plenty more combos available). Can a comfort food still taste good after it’s had all the tasty badness taken out of it? Apparently so. And with beer and wine to be added any time soon (we assume of the regional kind), I’ve got another excuse to revisit myself – and who knows, by that time the Marlboro Lights might even be traded for Super Lights. (AW)

in the garden gets all the thumbs up. Also novel to the community is a chance to enjoy top-notch beef – using filet from Poland and T-bones from Irish Hereford cattle, Mezzo’s newly designed kitchen uses a lava grill to ensure excellence each time. $$ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306, open 12:0023:00 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, open 12:00-last guest, www.sanlorenzo. pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$ Superiore (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. 506 404 059, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00, www.superiorewinebar.pl A hybrid wine shop, deli and restaurant, with an owner who prefers to think about the enjoyment of your dining experience rather than his cash till. The veal pasta is the bestselling dish here for very good reason. $$

Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, open daily 12:00-22:00 & ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 465 1836, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.trattoriarucola.pl Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side to cover Old Town and the center. The M.O is replicated in all venues, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $ Vapiano Al. Jerozolimskie 63 (Lipinski Passage), tel.

22 356 10 50, open Mon-Thu 9:00-23:00, Fri 9:00-1:00; Sat 11:00-1:00, Sun 11:00-22:00 & ul. Taśmowa 7 (Marynarska Business Park) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) www. vapiano.de/pl Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094, open 6:30-23:00 The high class confines of the Hyatt are the home of Venti Tre, a contemporary restaurant with an open kitchen, and a Mediterranean inspired menu constructed using carefully sourced ingredients from local suppliers. The results are befitting of one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$

JAPANESE & SUSHI

Sorbo Serpico (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 22 119 5336, open Mon-Fri 8:30-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00 There’s an honest charm to Sorbo Serpico, and it’s contagious: conversation flows as easily as the wine. For mains you’ll find the blush colored steak doesn’t need added flavor, instead utilize the deep, soupy green pepper sauce for the veg. The linguine and shrimps earned similar nods. In a city obsessed with trends, Sorbo is a fine return to basics. $$

Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 & ul.

Biały Kamień 4, tel. 22 424 0055, open MonThu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$

The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 6:30-11:00 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$

Ou Sushi ul. Domaniewska 17/19, tel. 22 847 16 63, open 12:00-21:00, www.ousushi.pl There can never be enough sushi in Warsaw, not least when it’s this good. The temaki rolls are outstanding. $$

Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 575 457 & ul.

Ryż i Ryba (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, open Mon-

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RESTAURANTS Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, www.ryziryba.pl The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30, Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sakana.pl If there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, it was Sakana. Many claim it’s the best in the city, a stand that’s hard to dispute.

Practice nimble chopstick moves among other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi Club (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 114 1414, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:0023:00, Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sushi-club. pl A couple of dining rooms to choose from, including one found in a restorative salt cave.

The lack of English on the menu may leave you bamboo-zled, but the overall quality is rewarding. We return for the salmon nigri and tuna hosomaki. $$ Sushi Marina-Mokotów ul. Warowna 1, tel. 22 493 0302, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.sushimarina.pl Since its heyday in the 00s sushi has been in decline in Warsaw – well, no-one told Marina-Mokotów, and it’s a good job as well.

Completely creative in its offer, this isn’t just another Wa-wa sushi joint. Elaborate rolls are built with forensic precision using the freshest of ingredients. In a place like this, it’s easy to fall in love with sushi all over again. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sushizushi.pl The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle. Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$

with a good balance of sushi and wok dishes.

The grilled maki is particularly pleasing. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, open MonThu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.tomo.pl Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

JEWISH Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, open 10:0023:00, www.podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them engaged in something akin to war with the people they serve. $

LATIN & MEXICAN Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, open Sun-Thu 9:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00, www.aioli-cantine.com A jaunty Mediterranean space with hanging hocks of ham and long communal tables. Aioli’s breakfast, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas all seem decent enough, but you can’t help wonder why it’s struck a chord with the public – it’s fine as an evening out, but nothing hugely memorable. $$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.bluecactus.pl The Cactus has been around for aeons, but such was its fall from grace people had started referring to in the past tense. Enter new executive chef, Californian Patrick Hanna. Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Northern Mexico, It’s not back to its best, it’s better than that. $$

Tekeda Sushi & Wok (D1) ul. Freta 18, tel. 600 351 818 & ul.

Meissnera 1/3, tel. 606 236 050, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.sushitekeda.pl In an area plagued by tourist rip-offs, Tekeda get it right

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Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324

5781, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, www.casapablo.pl Set to the flank of a glinting office building, Casa Pablo touts an interesting design composed of tartan colors, upturned wine crates and a mirror that we’re told is over a century old. But if you think that’s interesting, then take a look at the menu. Modeled round the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, dishes include scallop carpaccio with foie gras, and a duck breast burger with Mahon cheese, raspberry ketchup and truffle sauce. Servings are small and precise, but even so, we like what we see. $$ Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.dostacos.pl Adorned with Aztec murals and cartoonish finishes, cheerful Dos Tacos belies its office block location.

With an increasing amount of American custom, some have even gone as far as to call it Warsaw’s best Mexican. Either way, the burritos are grand and the sauces peerless: beginners should order the salsa set, a great mix that ranges from tasty to could-pass-for volcanic. $ Ole Tapas (E5) ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. ole-restaurant.pl A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Dogged by failed ventures, this prime location has been gagging for a success story – and it’s got one. The food is good, which has to count for something: from light bites like tortillas, to pots of fresh mussels, everything we’ve tried in this Hispanic-themed spot has been culinary gold.

Hanging hocks of ham come scattered around casual, intimate interiors, and further brownie points are gained for a smoking room that doesn’t choke you as well as hilarious toilets (lads, see if you measure up…). $$ Spoco Loco ul. Sarmacka 10, tel. 887 447 447, open daily 11:00-21:00 & ul. Francuska 8, tel.

887 441 447, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.spocoloco.pl See Wilanów section, p.

37 to p. 39.

The Mexican ul. Podwale 29, tel. 22 635 3232, open Sun-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00 & Zgoda 6, tel. 22 826 0009, open Sun-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00, www. mexican.pl Everything Mexican food shouldn’t be. There’s zero zing, and no matter what you order anticipate mysterious gloop with lots of mashed cabbage. It’s all such a shame, because with its burbling fountain and courtyard location The Mexican looks like it could be the real deal. Find their latest imposter hawking for custom on Zgoda 6 $$

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Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, open 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Freshly made tortillas and salsas that make you jump are just two reasons WTF continue to attract such a staunchly faithful following. But don’t think of it as just a mere restaurant, this is an ex-pat ‘have-it-all’, as proved by evenings that get particularly rowdy when there live sports of live bands. $$

MIDDLE EASTERN Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, open 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl Deep plum colors work well creating a warm, engaging ambience, and we recommend turning up with a group of friends and splitting the Baalbak (six cold starters) or Byblos (six hot starters) menu. Aside from a candid A-Z of Lebanese cuisine, it’s a great opportunity to cover the tables with fancy little plates

before causing a right mess as you share and share alike. It’s that sort of place: a restaurant that promotes social interaction amongst its diverse range of diners. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sokotra.pl Just what you didn’t expect – a restaurant specializing in the food of Yemen. Featuring lots of spicy meat dishes, and a few Indian-style offerings as well, here’s a fantastic spot that arouses curiosity and taste buds alike. The interiors are snug and pleasant, and not short on surprises – e.g. a concrete telephone pole adorned with potted plants. $$

POLISH Akademia Smaku ul. Oboźna 9, tel.

22 828 9901, open 12:00-24:00, www.

ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20 www.dawnesmaki.pl

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RESTAURANTS akademia-smaku.com.pl Something of a side street surprise, Akademia connect contemporary, neutral interiors with a menu that’s best described as modern/ international. That might sound vague and anonymous, but the results are anything but.

Beautiful presentation and simple, seasonal ingredients combine to make Akademia a high-scoring venue. $$

the best restaurant in the country, bar none.

Find a tasting menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (aloe leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro.

Reservations mandatory. $$$

Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, open daily 12:00-24:00, www.bazyliszek. waw.pl Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure.

Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, open Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30, www. aterlieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier has no rival – this is

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Belvedere Restaurant (F8) ul. Agrykola 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.belvedere.com.pl Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold and black interiors. $$$ Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, open 12:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00); Sun 12:00-22:00, www.bialages.pl All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 490 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$

Bistro Warszawa (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. 22 635 3769, open daily 12:0024:00, www.bistrowarszawa. pl The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini.

The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw people city-wide. $$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 A nationwide chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in bread. Twenty-something Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, open

Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00, www.dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till next year just to see it. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$

Kluska Polska (D4) ul. Szpitalna 4, tel. 602 550 786, open Mon-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00, www.kluskapolska.pl The crazy black and white design has you thinking you’ve stepped into a cartoon cutout, so for the love of God, don’t take any funny little pills before you enter. The menu is simple and traditional, with hefty dumplings the dominant entity.

Cheap and cheerful, all the signs suggest a success story in the making. $

Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, open daily 12:00-last guest, www. delicjapolska.pl It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$

Kuchnia Funkcjonalna (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), tel. 512 893 898, open Mon-Thu 11:0023:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00 Snuck inside one of Saska’s definitive modernist buildings, the opening of Kuchnia has made slow food accessible to all wallets. Venison from the Bieszczady Mountains, dairy products from Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics. The ascetic design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, seasonal glow. $$

Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, open daily 12:00-last guest, www. restauracjadompolski.pl Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, open daily 12:00-midnight, www.folkgospoda. pl Clad in heavy wood furniture, it’s akin to happening on a log mountain cabin. Quaint, cute and charming, Folk Gospoda trades sophistication and other Warsaw values in exchange for a hearty style that recalls village life. The menu, presented by waiters dressed like Zakopane tinkers, is a sturdy affair and promises all the dishes expected of a traditional banquet. Mains are a manly affair (solid, meaty and served in generous portions), while the chłodnik is, says one Polish associate, “the best I’ve ever had”. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, open daily 12:00-24:00 (kitchen to 23:00), www.czerwonywieprz.pl Recently voted as one of the 25 most interesting restaurants in the world! And we’re not surprised – bathed in red banners and propaganda paintings, the Red Hog is your one stop shop for some socialist socializing: while Marx and Co. never actually ate here (as their menu claims), lads like Bruce Willis and Lennox Lewis have. The menu is humorously split between dishes for the proletariat and for dignitaries, and is an experience in itself. $$

Pierrogeria (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. 22 743 7644, open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.pierrogeria.eu A jolly, busy restaurant that sees it all: from busloads of tourists, to locals who recognize this as the great deal it is. Pierogi are the forte, obviously, though the emphasis on fresh and natural ingredients extends all the way down to the drinks: there’s even Polish ecological wine. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.podwale25.pl Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar

‘Premium grade steak and pedigree seafood as cooked by Top Chef contestant, Argentinean Martin Gimenez Castro’ ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 hoza@mondovino.pl Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00 Prasowy’s story dates from 1954 when it first opened as a feeding station for the local proletariat.

Following a sensitive refit that retained much of its original milk bar spirit, Prasowy returned over summer, and specializes in exactly what it did before: honest, simple food for the everyman. $

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RESTAURANTS Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.podgigantami.pl Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, open 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjarozana. com.pl Touting a refined, baronial setting, Rożana has starchy white linen, floral pieces and flickering candles, giving off plenty of classic charm in the best possible taste. With indulgent mains such as farmhouse duck with apple and cranberry, or saddle of venison with homemade pickle, this is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table.

U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, open 12:00-last guest, www.ufukiera.pl This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians.

Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.uszwejka.pl Named after fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, open 11:00-23:00 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, open 10:00-22:00, www.zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska.

The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous;

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find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

SCANDINAVIAN Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www.nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food, with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS African Shop ul. Andersa 27, tel. 507 247 292, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, www.afroeuro.eu Beans, beverages, flour and soup thickeners.

Hair products and cosmetics also available, and they promise to be bringing in Abyssinian coffee in the near future as well. ‘’Excellent,’’ gushes one Zimbabwean connection.

Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, www.befsztyk.pl Operating on Puławska since 1994, the Prokopowicz family have an uncompromising policy when it comes to their produce: only the best. In the case of Befsztyk that means steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend.

Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

to cover non-food items inc. Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc.

Food & Joy ul. Nowy Świat 7, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-17:00, www.foodandjoy.eu An upmarket deli chain from the same team behind Krakowski Kredens and Alma.

Hala Koszyki ul. Koszykowa 63, tel. 533 331 588, open Tue-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 12:00-1:00; Sat 12:00-1:00 This charming neo-Gothic pile of bricks hosts one of the quaintest little bazaars Warsaw’s ever seen. There’s a fantastic butcher’s, the freshest import fruit out back, cold cuts, Greek seafood, cheese, a juice bar and Warsaw’s best cakes. Repeat after me: Warsaw’s best cakes.

Heritage ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912, open Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Some people use Heritage as a wine bar, while others see it as more than that. And so it is.

Peruse the Italian hams and cheeses in their fridge, olive oils, sauces and of course wine.

Lots and lots of wine.

Krakowski Kredens Various locations across town, check their website for details: www.krakowskikredens. pl Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

La Petite France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, open Mon-Sat 10:30-18:30, www.lapetitefrance. pl Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France.

Le Targ ul. Mińska 25, tel. 603 051 116, open Sat 10:00-15:00 Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves, Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however.

Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738,

open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, www.littleindia. pl The definitive Indian store which doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available.

Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.namasteindia.pl Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul.

Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves.

Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service.

Martin’s Good Meat ul. Przejazd 4/7, tel. 797 866 131, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00 Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef, not to mention lamb, veal and seasoned steaks. A candidate for Warsaw’s best butchery, no less!

Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, o pen Sat 8:00-16:00, www.targsniadaniowy. pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass-at least in the summer.

Find them in the winter moving the bulk of their offer indoors. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space,

part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town.

COOKING SCHOOLS Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 663 040 800, www.jospehseeletso.pl A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailormade courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself.

Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, open Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00 (Office) www. schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

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Reviews: Cześć 69 / Plus:

* 6 updates

CAFÉS & WINE BARS CAFES 69 / WINE BARS 72

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

Insider’s Pick

Cześć ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), tel. 505 695 512, open Mon-Sat 11:00last guest; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.czesc.waw.pl

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PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX WEBBER

here’s a sign that sits on the bar that claims, ‘Enter as strangers, Leave as friends.’

I’ve seen signs like that a few times, and usually understand them as a desperate attempt to foster a false sense of hospitality. It’s the sort of thing you’d seen in an Irish pub in Prague, or a scumbag hostel in Kraków. In short, the kind of place where you actually leave with either a black eye or bed bugs. In Cześć, however, the welcome is real.

In truth, there’s nothing radical about their vision: they’re not trying to change Warsaw in the same way places like Charlotte or Państwo Miasto have. But you get the idea that wasn’t the plan anyway – they’re just happy running a great little hangout. Located down a gusty tunnel underneath a residential/office compound, I didn’t expect much first time round. Discovered by a mate of mine, I received an urgent text to meet him – and pronto: “Found a great little café, and they sell English cider.” Don’t be a twonk I thought, I know all the good places and have never heard of this mob. Well, a month on and I’m a regular.

There’s an unassuming style to Cześć. It’s a small white room hung with art and colored by low-slung armchairs and bunches of cushions. But there are eccentricities as well: shelving is provided by up-cycled crates, while the toilet is decorated with a Space Invaders theme. And, there’s a rubber eye that stares out from the bar. It’s not about big, bold statements, rather fine, little details: for instance, Rwandan drip coffee; rare vodka from the mountains; boutique cakes and bruschetta made with love. And then there’s the beer.

The fridge is good but the real clincher is the taps: which for the last month have been gushing with Weston’s Cider, Racoborskie and my beer of the year: Artezan Pacific.

As all that suggests, it’s a versatile place. You’re as likely to see a local mums and tots gathering as you are singletons staring into a smoothie. You’re as happy to spend the afternoon here dicking about on Facebook, as you are carousing with your friends on a Thursday night session. And it’s downside? There isn’t one. (AW)

CAFÉS Bar Studio (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 603 300 835, open SunThu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:45 The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions.

Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24, tel. 794 000 634, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-16:00, www.bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

Café 6/12 (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00 www.612.pl Famous for dispensing complex fruit and vegetable super smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; the cavernous interiors are still very much the choice haunt for on trend 30 something’s.

Café Iluzja (C9) ul. Narbutta 50A, tel. 698 423 738, open daily 11:00-22:00, www.cafeiluzja.pl Bathed in white and black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black and white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a cult

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS socialist era cinema.

Cafe Colombia (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, open Mon-Tue 8:00-23:00; Wed-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-1:00; Sat 11:00-1:00, www. colombiabar.pl Purveyors of Colombia’s finest (coffee), this café bar fills itself out with primary colors, armchairs and clean modern finishes. The menu is strong, with dishes like ‘Colombian chicken’ dragging in plenty of lunch time custom – even so, most recognize the coffee, the cocktails and the extensive beer list as their principal strength.

Café Galeria Sztuki (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 13, tel. 22 619 8109, open Mon-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.caffee.stanowski. pl Located in a restored tenement, Sztuki is defined by raw brick, whitewashed walls and antique furniture… with price tags attached.

Yes, if you like the chair you’re sitting on, feel free to buy it. The summery iced lattes are divine.

Café Lorentz (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. 606 699 199, open Mon-Wed 10:00-20:00; Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-19:00, www.cafelorentz.pl Set at the front of the National Museum this place has a nice indoor area with high ceilings and minimalist decorations and a green outdoor area populated by wickers chairs and hammocks (obviously, depending on the season). As is the rage in Warsaw, the menu is light, natural and healthy.

Cava (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, tel. 22 826 6427, open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00, www.cava.pl A prime spot on Nowy Świat’s red carpet keeps business brisk in this highend cafe. Premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee available, and best enjoyed on a seasonal terrace that can barely be bettered for its people spotting opportunities.

Christian’s Bakerhouse (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345, open daily 9:00-21:00, www.bakerhouse.pl A top quality bakery/café/restaurant owned not by some creepy religious order, but by TV chef Krystian Zalejski. Fixed up in rustic style, the ever changing menu round at Christian’s is mostly filled with Italian staples – but with a twist. Think pappardelle with roasted duck slices and rosemary. And look out for their

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breakfasts, which include a noble attempt at a traditional British fry-up.

Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, open Mon-Fri 7:30-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.coffeekarma.eu Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. But to see Coffee Karma at her best, wait for the spring terrace.

Croque Madame (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 41, tel. 530 757 200, open 8:00-23:00 A French-themed charmer with rough, white painted brickwork, distressed wooden furniture and lots of eccentric bric-abrac to keep an eye out for. Dealing out fresh baguettes and pastries, the whole boulangerie/café concept is excellently executed.

factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses.

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Kava i Vino (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 692 7314, www.kavaivino.pl The standout feature is an unconventional interior designed by renowned architects Dobek, Wojcickiego, Białobrzeska, Boczko. Over 1,200 pieces of wood hang from the ceiling, creating a beautiful visual effect. The short menu features wine, cold meat platters, cheese bruschetta, wraps, salads and sandwiches, as well as a few daily specials – the results are fair to good.

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, tel. 22 270 2179, open 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. klubokawiarnia.net Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic Dziurka od Klucza (E3) design defined by polar white interiors. ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, open Mon-Sat Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep 12:00-21:00; 12:00-21:00 Dziurka serves magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, an ambiguous role as a bar, restaurant and screenings and art happenings have made it cafe. Curious doors sit embedded on the wall, into something of local cultural mainstay. as if waiting to be opened by the keys that Koszyki (D6) hang on the tree outside. Flowers, plant pots ul. Koszykowa 63, tel. 533 331 588, open and violet splashes give it a cheerful spin, Tue-Fri 10:00-2:00; Sat 9:00-2:00; Sun while the Italian inspired menu isn’t short on 10:00-24:00. Not just Warsaw’s best urban creative flair. market, but also a very decent café. Set in the ceramic tiled entrance of Hala Koszyki, Fawory there’s some fabulous food squiggled on ul. Mickiewicza 21, tel. 791 096 725, open the blackboard, and that definitely includes Mon-Thur 8:00-22:00; Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat the boeuf bourgignon and pots of mussels.

10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with At night, pop in to take languid sips of Aperol Spritz, Arrancello and other ‘drinks of the mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes moment’.

Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed La Scarpetta (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 68/70 (enter from with an awesome mural.

Skorupki), tel. 602 309 391, open 10:00-21:00 An inviting Italian-style café Filtry Café (A6) ul. Niemcewicza 3, tel. 507 815 204, open with warming woods, autumnal colors and a Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun blackboard menu that diverts away from the 10:00-20:00, www.filtrycafe.pl Filtry Cafe’s cliché. Standard pasta dishes are ignored in got great coffee, fruit shakes, cakes, and light favor of bruchetta and pidine sandwiches. breakfasts combined with a funky fleapit atmosphere that attracts hipster art lovers.

La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, open Kafka Café (E3) 10:00-20:00, www.lavanille.pl Thick with ul. Oboźna 3, tel. 22 826 0822, open Mon-Fri the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on kawiarnia-kafka.pl Floor-to-ceiling glass battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of that is the magnetic force: here you’ll find pre-loved books lining shelves characterize fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas spread out in precise military formation – and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” try the Red Velvet.

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

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Le Chocolat (D5) ul. Żurawia 26, tel. 22 114 26 42, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-16:00, www.lechocolat.pl This chic emporium is the realization of one couples desire to offer top-quality chocolates that challenge the palate of the discerning fan. Inspired by the chocolate boutiques of Paris, over twenty different brands from a dozen countries are available. Handmade pralines and truffles, displayed almost like jewels, come in a rainbow of fillings, from coconut to cherries, mint to almonds.

Limoni Canteri 1952 (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, tel. 789 176 730, open daily 8:00-22:00. Also at ul. Zwycięzców 49, tel. 518 652 436, open daily 10:0022:00 Appearing as a wooden cabin in an overgrown park (someone, clear it up please), Limoni get noted for Italian gelato that’s too good for words – join the line for tastes like cherry, plum and redcurrant, or go edgy and experimental with flavors such as salmon, tomato or basil.

Magiel Café (F8) ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, open Tue-Thu 12:00-22:30; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 10:30-17:00, www.magielcafe.pl Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders. Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for esoteric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards.

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Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 828 5417, open Mon-Wed 10:00-23:00; Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun14:00-23:00, www. miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of postcommie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 503 080 906, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www.ministerstwokawy.pl Just the chicest little café you’ll see for a while: pristine white wall tiles and Edwardianstyle furnishings combined with a funky contemporary lamp, and simple tables, chairs

and comfy chaises. Neither too commercial nor too hipster, the place is known for weekly drip coffee specials, and also freshly squeezed juices.

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 22 629 0815, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00, www.mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore.

Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall.

account of artfully crafted sandwiches and salads: utilizing seasonal ingredients, these could easily belong in a restaurant charging double the price.

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Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9446, open 9:00-24:00, panstwomiasto.pl While the first impression is of echoing acoustics, blank, boring color schemes and cold, cavernous interiors, it doesn’t take long to warm to Państwo. It’s young and lively, keen on scholastic events and political causes, but it never feels hipster or painfully trendy. It’s a place all about friends and atmosphere –

my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:0022:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:0021:00, www.myomy.pl Slightly rustic in design, with wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor. The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic.

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Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 664 844 439, open MonFri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt.

Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spread and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Om Nom Nom (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A, tel. 602 134 634, open Mon-Wed 10:00-22:00; Thu-Sun 10:0023:00 Looking clean, clinical but strangely warming, Om Nom Nom specialize in their own ice cream lollies: all in cutesy designs and dipped in crunchy colorful toppings. The beer is just as good, with independent Polish brewers well represented.

THERE’S ONLY ONE LEGENDARY BURGER IN WARSAW!

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Palce Lizać (F5) ul. Rozbrat 16/18, tel. 509 412 051, open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-19:00 A tiny affair where the personal touch is valued above everything else. Looking cute, blue and feminine, this café shines not just through their homemade cakes, but also on

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS and you’ll find plenty of both.

Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 22 870 13 25, open Mon-Wed 12:00-22:30; Thu-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 Informal looking with its clean white finishes and stripped wood floors, it’s an ideal spot for a lazy weekend – few places in Warsaw feel so naturally continental.

The food, it needs to be said, is very good indeed, with hefty steaks, multiple burgers and some fine desserts.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-18:00 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19, tel. 507 226 552, open Mon-Thu 8:00-21:00; Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 You might already be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town.

Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest. It’s a winner!

Socjal (E4) ul. Foksal 18, tel. 787 181 051, open Mon-Thu 12:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00. Looking raw, industrial and fashionably spartan, the principal feature of Socjal is the long communal table – who you end up talking to is down to the dice. A faded concept, maybe, but in Socjal it feels as fresh as tomorrow. Pizza and Prosecco are the best sellers.

Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 796 880 822 or 793 567 125. open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00 Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the

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sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

WINE BARS Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon-Tue 10:00-22:00; Wed-Sat 10:0024:00, www.alewino.pl Covertly stashed inside a courtyard, that Ale Wino’s! neighbors include fashion Tsar Robert Kupisz announce this place as the frontline of cool – as if to qualify this, find furnishings by the celebrated design brains at Studio Rygalik. Stocked with wines from 16 countries, place your trust in sommelier Adrian Litkowicz for a taste of something special.

Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44. open 12:00-23:00. Signaling the Bristol’s rebirth as one of the top addresses in Warsaw is the launch of their ground floor wine bar. Designed by London-based Anita Rosato, the venue is the bottom line in luxury: here it’s all polished nickel and marbled surfaces. Completing this picture of elegance is a wine selection handpicked by Robert Mielżyński – a Polish/Canadian wine buff, and one of the most renowned importers in the country.

Charlotte (D6) ul. Aleja Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl.

Zbawiciela), tel. 22 628 4459, open MonThur 7:00-24:00; Fri 7:00-1:00; Sat 9:001:00; Sun 9:00-22:00, www.bistrocharlotte. com It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Mac technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

Hoża by Mondovino (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, tel. 515 037 001, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hoza.warszawa.pl Successfully establishing themselves over summer, you’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak.

But what is meat without wine? Complimenting the Argentine cooking of Martin Gimenez Castro is a wine list particularly dense with reds. They’re the personal selection of actor/

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owner Tomasz Budyta, a successful wine importer for the last 23 years.

Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, open Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.prawdziwewina.pl Some think of this as a neighborhood wine bar – they’re clearly privileged, because if everyone had a Jung & Lecker next door it’d be a kind world indeed. While the courtyard garden is a highlight, even in the sub-zero season there’s reason to swing by. Offering an intimate atmosphere and a strong menu, the finishing touch is provided by way of wines sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22); Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:30-17:00 (kitchen closes at 17:00), www.mielzynski. pl Retaining a fiercely loyal customer base, some argue it’s the best wine bar in Warsaw, others that it’s the best in Poland.

Combining old and new world wines this pared-down warehouse is filled to bursting with crates and boxes, thought the best aspect is the verdant green square it’s centered around. Sitting outside, you ask yourself, “Am I really in Warsaw?”

Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 25 00, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera.pl Lending a lift to a sad stretch of Chłodna is Winosfera, a huge wine bar with all the requisite crates and industrial fittings – there’s even a cinema. The upside is true fine dining, and a flawless wine selection. opened in Feb, it’s already become a much used Insider hangout. Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 521 06 66, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:0018:00 Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve already won a staunchly loyal following. Get your week off to a galloping start and visit on ‘Jazz Monday’s’.

You’ll be joining the most beautiful people in the city.

Reviews: Piw Paw 73

NIGHTLIFE

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

BARS & PUBS 73 / CLUBS 76 / GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS 78 / JAZZ CLUBS 78 / SHOT BARS 78

Insider’s Pick

BARS & PUBS Bazar ul. Okrzei 22, tel. 508 321 264, open 12:00-last guest There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, open daily 12:00-4:00, www.beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired

by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Piw Paw ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from Parkingowa), www.piwpaw.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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might be stating the bleeding obvious here, but without doubt the best thing to happen to Warsaw this year was the arrival of the multi-tap. I practically cartwheeled to Cuda Na Kiju when it first opened, an exercise I repeated when Chimelarnia and Kufle i Kapsle followed swiftly after. So, you can imagine how I glowed when news filtered through of not another multi-tap, but a hyper-tap! Opened in September, I was so thrilled I cut out of work extra early so I could be one of the first punters in there. As it turns out, that was the wrong thing to do – when I arrived to Piw Paw (about two minutes after they’d officially opened), the fridges were bare and only 50% of the 57 taps were up and running. I left underwhelmed: a hyper tap? More an over-hyped tap.

Of course, it’s wrong to dismiss a place just after they’ve opened. So, a few weeks on, how have they fared? I returned as part of an epic tap crawl that left me severely traumatized for the following three days. This time round, the fridges were full; the taps, as well, were all up and running. But there were disappointments. First, the serving system. Now, in fairness, this is a problem that effects all multi-taps and is not going to be solved until all insist on two separate queues: one for those who want to faff about asking questions, and another for those who know what they want and want it today.

There is another problem, as well: the toilet. With 57 taps and two toilets (usually occupied by a texting hipster) something is going to give. Unfortunately for you, that’s your bladder. But for all that the biggest failing is the beer itself. In my eyes, the three other tap bars have done a sterling job on presenting breakthrough Polish breweries, not to mention European rising stars. So by comparison, Piw Paw’s selection is a little dull. Don’t get me wrong, Warsaw is clearly richer for having Piw Paw. But does it match up to the other tap bars? Not yet it doesn’t. (AW)

The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The big fail of 2012. Forget that it’s the most accurate replica of a traditional British pub around, and consider instead the heinous service, fried aromas and a deserved ex-pat boycott traced to the dismissal of the original British manager.

Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 22 890 77 05, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl A subterranean space that can get loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky. Featuring a ‘tomb’ of mainstream beers, Chmielarnia may look a little basic, but it’s definitely the real deal.

A peerless selection of craft beer sees 40 lagers rotated on 15 taps, and even more rare finds in the fridge: among them BrewDog, Lindemanns, and of course a comprehensive choice of experimental Polish brews. Look out for stocks of Thistly Cross, a Scottish cider that murders all the competition.

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NIGHTLIFE Coctail Bar Max (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 691 710 000, open daily 11:00-15:00, www.barmax.pl Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, it’s a resounding yes. With its light wood touches and fruity montages Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with an alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant affairs that resemble a tropical jungle in a miniature form. The only problem? By their very nature, cocktails aren’t concocted in two minutes flat – if it’s busy, waiting around is like Death by a Thousand Cuts.

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106, open 10:00-2:00, www.cudanakiju.pl Warsaw’s multi-tap revolution started here! Marketed at normal people – not just hipsters, for a change – this sleek space comes drenched in sunlight that comes slanting through the four glass walls. Could it be too basic? No – anything else would detract from the main attraction: the beer. About 15 taps dispense regional brews, cult indy productions as well as quirky imports from Czech, Belgium and beyond.

Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, open Tue-Thu, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www. czeskabaszta.pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary.

Bathed in a yellowish glow, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk!

There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

Czeska Piviarnia ul. Ks. J. Popiełuszki 19/21, tel. 730 855 566, open Sun-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-2:00 Warsaw’s realization that there is beer beyond Żywiec is in evidence with the creation of this haunt. Seven Czech beers are rotated on the taps, and several dozen more sit in bottles in the fridge. While the design doesn’t go far beyond tables and chairs, it’s a sign city center trends are penetrating the suburbs. If you’re Żoliborz-based, then it’s a must.

Dubrovnik (D4) ul. Nowogrodzka 22, tel. 885 835 885, open

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11:00-last guest, www.dubrovnik.waw.pl Yes, Dubrovnik is a restaurant. And yes, it’s a restaurant that doesn’t promise much – set with woodsy features and mock-rustic details, it looks cheap and tacky and one to avoid. But guess what, it’s one of the first tankovy pubs in Poland! A Czech innovation, the storing system preserves the beers freshness, and even takes away the usual gassy, belchy taste of Tyskie.

Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar (E6) ul. Mokotowska 43, tel. 22 625 0818, open 12:00-23:00, www.flaming-co.pl Checkered floor tiles, pristine whites and classic pictures of the rich and famous announce Flaming. The guys look like Bond villains and the gals just like Bond girls, but don’t think it’s a closed shop. With glasses of Moet starting below zł. 50 it’s accessible to all. But forget the champagne, it’s their cocktails we love. Order oysters and let the night take its course.

Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855, open MonFri 13:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00, www.goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Haka (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 515 967 123, open Mon-Wed 10:00-24:00; Thu-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00 Creating a huge buzz in July, newly-opened Haka combines the talents of its three owners to maximum effect. Kiwi Shane has created an inventive, modern menu that reinvents the term bar food, while Irishman Kevin ensures smooth running of the bar. Final glue is provided by Kasia, a glamorous wine buff with an attention for detail. An intimate space clad in brickwork and metal, it’s a positively international effort where Perła and Baltika beer sit comfortably next to Prosecco and modern British breakfasts and tandoori chicken wraps.

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 791 334 606, open daily 12:00-4:00 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean),

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

the woodsy Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218, open Mon-Thu 14:00-2:00; Fri 14:00-4:00; Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00. www. kufleikapsle.pl Ten tap and two pump beers offer a magnificent spread of daily changing beers, and the good news continues with the choice in the fridge: there’s 120 beers down there, so gamble on a rather jolly night. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the building, and are already thick with noise, clamor and the welcome scent of beer and spillage.

Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 790 010 088, open Mon-Fri 16:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest, www.kwadrat.waw.pl Chilled out and downtempo, owners Zosia and Michał have created a legend out of this dinky two room affair. There’s too many beers to recommend, though the Rowing Jack diminishes quickly for a reason.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background.

Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. tel. 510 905 592, open Mon-Thu 16:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00 Tight trousers and flamboyant scarves are recommended in this hipster mecca, as is a triumphant drinks choice that numbers short of sixty regional beers. Design doesn’t go beyond jam jars for lights and a messy blackboard, but that’s all this place needs to work. Similar backstreet New York dive it’s got an effortless cool and our beer of the year: the minty flavor/ raspberry hint M3.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming

HOTEL**** GNIEW CASTLE

NIGHTLIFE years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 6306, open Mon-Sun 18:00-2:00, www.panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a wellto-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, tel. 691 472 969, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia.

Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf.

Parking Bar (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 501 623 456 or 537 606 897, open Sun-Thu 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-6:00, www.parkingbar.eu It looks raw and ready, but then what did you expect from a place on the ground floor of a car park.

Plentiful concrete, mesh fences and swinging car tire seats lend it unique characteristics, as do the drinks: the creative cocktails are served in small little jars. At times it feels a bit slow, but that changes on the weekend club nights.

Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, open daily 18:00-last guest, www.paparazzi. com.pl Engage in suicidal cocktail consumption alongside high rollers and genetic miracles. Slick and smooth, Poland’s original cocktail chain continues to set the bar high with formidable cocktails (Pimm’s included!) and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641, open 10:00-4:00, www.pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers

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helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 83 73, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones.

This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976, open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. www.planb.pl Bottled then packaged in Plan B (pl. Zbawiciela) is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Przychodnia (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 827 8356, open 12:00-24:00 Erm, so, here’s a bar themed around communist hospitals. Are you sure that’s a good idea? Order test tube shots from staff dressed like docs, before settling into an interior equipped with operating room lights, surgical utensils and a smoking room designed like a toilet. What were they thinking with this one? No idea, but it’s certainly a novelty.

Pure Sky Club (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Skylight Tower), tel. 22 250 1111, open Mon-Fri 7:00-23:00; Sun 12:0017:00, www.pureskyclub.com Slotted on the top floor of the 22-storey Sky Tower, Pure Sky Club offers a slice of the high life (literally and otherwise) to high society looking to mix business with pleasure inside this ‘private club’ – this is where the Top Gear lads went for their after show party. Friday is the highlight though, with their weekly London Calling event drawing dressy ex-pats looking for live entertainment. For membership, check their web.

Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl What was

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a standard Indian restaurant has been reinvented as both a slick ‘modern Indian’ eatery and… a bar! There’s Perła on tap, and the best time to sample it is their ‘Piątek, Pakora and Perła’ happy hour: zł. 8 for a beer and pakora from 16:30 to 18:30. But the real point is made by the cocktails. They’re concocted by Konrad, a gifted mixologist whose specialties include the house signature: Frozen Rain. You won’t stop at one.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 796 671 950, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:001:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink.

And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

Syreni Śpiew (F5) ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, open Tue-Thu 18:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00, www.syrenispiew.pl Housed in a 70s monster this two floor bar maintains its element of retro chic while at the same time providing a genuinely unique drinking experience. Aimed at a more mature, affluent crowd than their sister bar (Warszawa PKP Powiśle), the standout factor is a whisky menu divided up into regions of Scotland, Ireland and Japan.

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622, open Mon-Sun 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl This is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world.

CLUBS 1500m2 (E3) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412, open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00, www.1500m2.com Set in a former printing factory, 1500m2 has been central to the rise of Powiśle. The industrial space has a real Berlin edge to it, and events range from weekend flea markets to teeth shattering, dusk-till-dawn electro events.

NIGHTLIFE Basen ul. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 696 058 944, open Fri-Sat 21:00-6:00, www.artbasen.pl Get this, you’ll be doing your dance steps in what was formerly Warsaw’s first public swimming pool. Featuring a line-up of live bands and some of the top electronic acts around, this is definitely one to add to the watch list.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, open Wed-Sat 22:00-4:00, www.enklawa.com Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.

Foksal XVIII (E4) ul. Foksal 18, open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00 Composed using chandeliers, bricks and velvet this classy space has gone head to head with The Eve as Warsaw’s flashest venue: breathe deep and smell the money.

Cardboard animal shapes hang from the bar, adding some surreal humor to the seriously competitive air.

The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 604 145 462 or 22 827 5242, open ThuFri 21:00-last guest, www.theeve.pl Beauty and booty come first in The Eve, a blinged up offshoot of Platinium nearby. A cutthroat door policy ensures plenty of egos crash and

die at the door, and it’s got a Bacchanalian reputation for champagne popping high jinks.

Observe them through the one way mirror in the VIP room.

Luzztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, open Wed-Thu 22:00-10:00; Fri-Sat 24:00-14:00, www. luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a nefarious reputation as something of a dodgy den of illicit pharmaceuticals and libertine behavior. Looking grim and grotty, this after party legend gets going at about 4 a.m. when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the final touches to their zonked out stare. For the full tilt, teeth rattling electro experience it’s pretty hard to beat.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 694 413 439, open Thu-Sat 21:00-6:00. www.platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. BEST WAWA 2012 “Rich & Pretty Club” Winner Sen Pszczoły ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. 530 360 060, open Tue-Wed 18:00-2:00; Thu-Sat 18:005:00; Sun 18:00-2:00, www.senpszczoly.pl A dive club of legend. With the original turned to ashes (literally, it burnt down earlier in the year), the owners could have been forgiven for calling it a day. They haven’t. Instead

Shot Bars Afera na Szpitalnej ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 509 777 797, open 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 24hrs Looking light and bright this place appeals to more than just hardened alcoholics – a point proved by spot-on food home cooked by the owner’s mum. It’s young, fun and lively in swagger. We’re told that a second location is coming soon.

Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21, open 11:00-6:00 Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to the chains of bog paper.

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Pijalnia ul. Nowy Świat 19, open 24hrs Bow-tied staff serve vodka and pickles from behind a tiled bar to a crowd that gets younger as the day gets older. In quieter times, check the newspaperd walls to read up on 1980s sports reports.

Warszawska Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. 600 121 240, open 24hrs When Plan B closes the hardcore head here. Little more than a grey concrete room, this newbie is winning the war as the city’s favorite shot bar, and it is a good spot to watch the latest rainbow fire.

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

they’ve reopened in Koneser, and unleashed Warsaw’s most surreal interior in the process: amid the heavy industrial background expect bunk bed frames, a dentist’s chair and no shortage of neon painted weirdness. Concerts are a mixed bag, and range from didgeridoo performances to inter-war songs to full-on techno that rattles the ribcage.

GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS Coyote (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 505 469 056, open Mon-Sun 21:00-5:00, www.coyotebar.eu Coyote Bar marks the start of the Mazowiecka, err, strip, and features a small bar in front and then a larger room with more intimate acts of friendship taking place behind the curtain.

New Orleans (D4) ul. Zgoda 11, tel. 22 826 4831 or 600 063 667, open Mon-Sun 16:00-4:00, www. neworleans.pl High rollers looking to clinch a deal in unusual surrounds should consider doing so in New Orleans: a gentleman’s club with a seriously VIP dining area. Cheaper snack and sandwich options available should you prefer to spend your money on the real reason you’re here…

JAZZ Bistro na Pięknej (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.jazzone.pl A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts.

Nu Nu Nu (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 621 8989, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00.

For something a little educated take a date to Nu, a high-ceilinged effort with slick urban dashes and regular piano. The Żurawia location marks it out as a popular spot for a high-end crowd.

Tygmont Jazz Club ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl, open daily 16:00-4:00 For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics.

Reviews: Red Poppy 79 / Plus:

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Insider’s Pick

FASHION

Red Poppy ul. Lekarska 9, tel. 516 894 4306, open by appointment only, www.redpoppy.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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ucked away on a small street in the shadow of Stefan Kuryłowicz’s Focus Building, Red Poppy launched their new shop in January of this year. Being the first hand-printing design studio in Poland, they focus primarily on making one-of-a-kind wallpapers as well as curtains, lampshades, and cushions. Justyna Medoń is the artist behind Red Poppy: schooled at the London School of Communications, upon graduating she teamed up with brother Robert and his wife Magda to go into business together. The job split is simple – Justyna does the design, while Rob and Magda take care of the numbers. And while some would consider it a risky family affair, Justyna is adamant it’s a healthy relationship that ensures she’s able to concentrate fully on making a good product. And a good product it is: a series of her patterns won the 2012 Must Have prize at the Łódź Design Festival.

Personally, I love the stenciled hand-made quality of her work – its leagues ahead of the craft fair creations of the amateur artisans you see around the city. Even more so, I love Justyna’s sophisticated aesthetic and keen eye for color. And while I’d usually suggest decorating a room around her wallpapers, I learned that they’re all totally customizable and are made to individual order. That’s not just good news for interior designers looking to please a tricky client, but also those who want work around what they already have in their home. And the price of this? You’re looking at zł. 80 per meter for a one color pattern, and zł. 140 for a three color one.

An insider secret about Red Poppy’s location is that it occupies the parlour of a townhouse owned by Hanna Rechowicz – a lesser known artist who masterminded the murals of Dom Chłopa and the demolished SuperSam – Rechowicz’s mother worked in tandem with Irena Sendler, hiding Jewish children at this address during the war. (KD)

American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 605645289, open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style.

Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 622 02 76, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Bizuu ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 727 425 352 or 609 888 363, open Mon-Sat 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-16:00, www.bizuu.pl A gorgeous, feminine collection from two talented Polish designers – including, the must need pastels of the coming season.

Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00, tel.

22 611 3814, pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat Sun 10:00-20:00, www.chiara-online.pl A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander. The current collection is a true tribute to S/S 2012 – bright colours, florals, platform heels and wedges.

Designer Secret ul. Mokotowska 39 (courtyard), tel. 506 051 048 or 511 649 493, open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-15:00, www.designersecret.pl High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks

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SHOPPING brim with women and men’s apparel from the previous years’ collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price.

Frank A ul. Natolińska 3, tel. 22 424 79 79, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www. franka.pl The interior is painfully chic and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch.

Gosia Baczyńska (Praga) ul. Floriańska 6/11, tel. 516 133 507, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; 12:00-15:00, www.gosiabaczynska.com.pl This elegant boutique on the other side of the river features gorgeous, unique designer pieces.

Joanna Klimas ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, ul. Puławska 2 (CH Plac Unii), open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.joannaklimas.com One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion.

L’Aura ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00 Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho.

Likus Concept Store ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), tel. 22 310 73 13, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 519 000 049, open Mon-Sat 11:00-19:00, www.zien.pl A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom.

Marks & Spencer Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 206 4370, open

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Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00. ul.

Marszałkowska 104/122 (DT Wars & Sawa), tel. 22 206 4353, open 9:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00, Al. Jerozolimskie 179, tel. 22 206 4386, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00, Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0653, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl The popular British brand’s new Warsaw store sells menswear, womenswear and children’s clothing, as well as various beauty products, groceries, wines and spirits. This is its newest and largest store in Poland to date.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, www.moliera2.com Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain.

Muji ul Mysia 3, tel. 502 264 091, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www.muji. com.pl Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store.

Pinko Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4616, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00, Nowy Świat 1, tel. 22 629 1773, open Mon-Sat 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-19:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 22 541 3862, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00, www.pinko.it Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories.

Premiere Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), tel.

506 170 801, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00, www.robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner, and Kupisz’s latest collection is a tribute to Americana: think disheveled cowgirls flouncing on the prairie.

Reykjavik District ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, open Mon & Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

ACCESSORIES Bagatt ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 622 0015, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.bagatt. pl A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży.

Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections.

Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances.

Batycki (various locations) Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag

BROUGHT TO YOU BY ART’IMPRESSION CATERING

Fish appetizer for two

Spicy herring in oil

Pierogi with cabbage and mushrooms

Roast turkey cooked in butter

’TIS THE SEASON, TO ORDER ONLINE

Forget the stress of Christmas preparations, let someone else do the worry and the work for you!

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Noodles with poppy seeds

Selection of stuffed fish

rt’Impression Catering offers its clients dishes from Polish and international cuisine, including several organic products for those who see food as a way of wellbeing. They offer over 70 dishes in their Christmas offer and are especially proud of their pierogi, not to mention their signature dish: roast turkey cooked with butter (with the option to purchase organic turkey). At Art’Impression Catering, they’re experienced in fulfilling unusual requests, and can also prepare dishes according to local tastes and traditions.

Aside from their signature dishes, also in their offer are: roast duck, as well as a range of cakes and pastries, vegetarian dishes and Christmas snacks. All dishes are ordered via their online shop, with confirmation of your order sent within three hours. After, you can pick up your order or have it delivered to the address of your choice (free delivery for orders of 300zł or more). So you see, Christmas really can be a time of good will!

Art’Impression Catering ul. Karczunkowska 170 Tel. 22 894 4284 Email: sklep@e-cateringwarszawa.pl www.e-cateringwarszawa.pl/xmas

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SHOPPING designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite.

Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, tel. 22 611 3814, open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat Sun 10:00-20:00. www.chiara-online.pl You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry.

Church’s Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00 A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes.

Frey Wille ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. www. frey-wille.com You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Vienna-based jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals.

Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel.

794 689 090, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00 Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 625 0881, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-15:00, www. mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3, tel. 884 867 518, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-18:00. The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula.

Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 403 19 19, open

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Mon-Fri 11:19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, www.lilou.pl Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, tel. 22 389 8600, open Mon-Thur 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.kencenter.pl

Secret Life (of Things) ul. Dąbrowskiego 15A, tel. 600 486 582 or 509 852 617, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.secretlife.pl An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. And it’s the multi-colored tins that greet you at the door, all of them crying out ‘drink me’. Check the prestigious porcelain

by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes.

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl

Take a Nap ul. Mysia 3 This two floor shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. Downstairs there’s a broader selection of bed frames, couches and mattresses.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

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Velt ul. Próżna 12, www.velt.pl Beautiful familyrun glassware store whose pieces include the Leda lamp, awarded an honorable mention in the prestigious 2012 Red Dot Awards.

A great shop for unique lighting accents for your home.

Klif ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Bomi supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

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Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. mysia3.pl Hip and high-end department store with units such as NYCity (DKNY, Donna Karan), Berries & Co. (Ice Watch, Triwa, Ike Milano), UEG, My Paris and Take a Nap selling great pieces from both established and upcoming designers.

Targówek (Praga) ul. Głębocka 15, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.atrium-targowek.pl

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 665 625 618, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel.

22 541 4141, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range. For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

SHOPPING MALLS Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega, Yves Saint Laurent, etc…

Wola Park (Wola) ul. Górczewska 124, tel. 22 533-4000, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.wolapark.com Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www. zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

Reviews: Targ Śniadaniowy 83

CHILDREN

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ACTIVITIES 83 / EDUCATION 84

Insider’s Pick

ACTIVITIES Barwy Muzyki ul. Niecała 14, tel. 22 188 18 27, www. barwymuzyki.pl This informal music school, with highly qualified teachers experienced in the Colour Strings program, acknowledges not every child will be a professional musician but that playing, listening and singing to music is an asset to their development. Group or individual lessons on piano, violin, guitar, cello and flute for 6-12yrs.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, www.kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

Targ Śniadaniowy Al. Wojska Polskiego 1A, open Sat 10:00-18:00, targsniadaniowy.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

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or me Saturday mornings in December conjure dread: there’s a tendency to wake up in hot sweats, panicking about the Christmas rush and longing for an alternative to that manic holiday pilgrimage to shopping malls. But after a visit to Targ Śniadaniowy I feel all that is about to change. Quite frankly, Targ Śniadaniowy (Breakfast Market) is the latest trendy way to ‘hang out’ in the city during the weekend whilst casually ticking off all your chores on that long ‘to do’ list! Predominately frequented by the locals, this is a little gem, well hidden in the grounds of a Polish school in Żoliborz and open 10 a.m.to 6 p.m. each Saturday.

The concept is for local traders to introduce their products and to let the client taste, talk, listen and learn about the benefits and quality of homegrown talent in a casual shopping atmosphere. Buy gifts, fill the fridge and at the same time entertain and feed the family a healthy breakfast lunch or dinner.For December the market is going to hot up with lots of activities for the younger members of the family. The traditions of Mikołajki will be celebrated. Ceramic classes by Nomen Omen (Anna speaks impeccable English) are available from 1 p.m. and children are welcome to participate in workshops to create fun artwork.

Whilst that’s going on, the grown-ups can peruse the abundance of seasonal goodies whilst sipping hot toddies! Think fresh fish (not yet jellied), cheeses, jams, breads, pesto’s, organic juices, honey, cakes, burgers, and fresh sushi. Not to mention handmade jewelry, children’s toys, books (mainly Polish), clothes and glitter tattooing!

Admittedly, my husband was apprehensive – he is the pickiest of eaters! But the first waft of homemade burgers being flipped in a pop-up café, not to mention the sight of that unmistakable orange glow from the (not so local) Dutch tent selling poffertjes and stroop wafels, meant he was hooked. So too was my daughter who scoffed two generous portions!

So don’t let the December temperatures hold you back: muffle up and hang out at the hippest market in town – Christmas shopping has never been so laid back! (GBB)

Cukier Lukier ul. Emilii Plater 10, tel. 605 660 005, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 10:0018:00, www.cukierlukier.pl Confectionary making courses and displays that attract kids of ALL ages.

Fryzjerkowo ul. Foksal 12/14, tel. 22 827 2744, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00, www.fryzjerkowo.pl This 100% child friendly hair salon with jungle theme interior will guarantee no tears! Whilst having their locks chopped children sit in a toy car and watch a favorite DVD. Mum can peruse the retro toys and classic books on sale. Owner speaks excellent English. Advance booking recommended.

Fundacja Atelier ul. Foksal 11, 22 826 8813 or 22 826 9589, open Mon-Fri 10:00- 20:00, Sat 9:30-20:30, www.atelier.org.pl Situated in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/drawing/sculpture/ art history) for children, young people and adults.

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CHILDREN HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:0024:00, www.hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools. Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu.

Little Chef ul. Bałuckiego 30/1, tel. 501 093 691, www.littlechef.pl (visit for more information) Cooking classes for children age 3-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook-and-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English and Polish, Mon-Sat. Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www. thelittlegym.pl Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

Manufatura Cukierów ul. Tamka 49 (enter from Ordynacka), open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-17:30; Sun 13:00-17:30, tel. 692 888 751, www. manufaktura-cukierkow.pl Sweet making courses in a confectionary factory! Lessons are conducted in Polish, though enthusiasm is more important than a mastery of the language.

Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless.

For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web.

Teatr Guliwer ul. Różana 16, tel. 22 845 16 76/77, box office open 9:00-17:30, www.teatrguliwer. waw.pl Well worth a visit, even for non-Polish speakers. An exciting colorful premises with creative costumes make this the choice place to introduce the kids to theater.

Teatr Lalka Pl. Defilad 1 (Palace of Culture), tel. 22 620 4960 or 22 620 49 50, open Mon-Sat 11:0017.30; Sun 11:00-15:00, www.teatrlalka. waw.pl This puppet theatre stages a variation

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of productions suitable for children aged 3 +. Scenery, props and costume design are impressive but Polish dialogue is challenging!

Losing the plot to Hansel and Gretel can happen - prepare to improvise! Tip: organize a backstage birthday party.

Warsaw Zoo ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. 22 619 4041, open Mon-Sun 9:00-18:00, www.zoo.waw.pl The hippopotami now have an indoor and outdoor pool, the gorillas a new pavilion, and the arrival of a shark means it now has an ‘aquarium’. This year though, all eyes are on three tiger cubs born in Feb. Wilanów Golf Driving Range/ Ekberg Golf Academy ul. Vogla 19, tel. 22 424 7083, open Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00, www.golfparkspoland.pl Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. There is a weekly junior hour (5-15yrs), ladies hour and fun mini-golf course.

Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 9600, open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.zacheta.art. pl Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

EDUCATION PRESCHOOLS

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/ or to visit our school, contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

The British School Early Years Centre

ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel.

22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool School Unit ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@ canadian-school.pl The preschool branch of The Canadian School of Warsaw offers a bilingual environment based on the International Baccalaureate Program PYP for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000, they’re now found on new premises 100m from Mokotów’s Dreszera Park and 300m away from Ogródek Jordanowski.

All children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de SaintExupéry ul. Nobla 16, tel./fax: 22 616 1499, www.saintexupery.pl Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 2½ years old.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00,

www.theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@ theenglishplayhouse.com.

Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, open 7.30-17:00, www.hmh.com.pl The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, open Mon-Fri 7.30-18:00, www.argonaut.edu.pl This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:15, ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, www.montessoriacademy.eu An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 Trilingual 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Pre-school and Tree Montessori is a family-run, international Nursery preschool that offers an authentic Montessori “Three Lancurriculum supported by a Music & Art guages” Center program, with a natural playground and Reklama144x67mm_Insider_swiateczna.pdf 1 11/19/13 1:54 PM ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); a strong focus on an ecological & healthy ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), open lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler

Mon-Fri 7:30-18:30, tel. 517 872 682, www.3languages.pl The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

SCHOOLS American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www. aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

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CHILDREN The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 600 247 655, www. canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of IB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, www.canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuation of IB(International Baccalaureate)- based education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include visual arts (Bob the Builder, ceramics/pottery, art studio), music lessons(piano, guitar, choir, sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer club,

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swimming, therapeutic gymnastics), foreign languages (Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

Ecole Antoine de SaintExupéry Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children two to eight years old (3rd year of primary school) in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers.

International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649 1440, 649 1442, Open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:00, www.ias.edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl The International American School of Warsaw provides pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization.

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

Kid’s Academy Primary & Pre-School ul. Arbuzowa 33D (Wilanów), tel. 510 077 979 or 603 798 297, open 7:30-18.00, ul. Łąkowa 38 (Konstancin), tel. 506 021 038 or 501 205 080, Open 7:30-17:30, www.kidsacademy.com.pl A Private English - Polish School which provides an excellent early educational program for children from ages 2.5 - 5 years old and at the Primary School, from Grade 0. Combining elements of both the Polish and British curriculum, the focus is on creating a positive and vibrant learning environment. They’re also proud of their large playground and variety of healthy foods.

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www. warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

Reviews: Between Us Bed & Breakfast 87

LIFESTYLE

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

ACCOMMODATION 87 / HEALTH & BEAUTY 89 / MEDICAL 92 / POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS 92 / SERVICES 92 / TRANSPORTATION 89

ACCOMMODATION

Insider’s Pick

HOTELS IN WARSAW 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel.

22 551 1000, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl H15 Boutique Apartments ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, www.h15boutiqueapartments.com

Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 or 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com

Between us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu

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he name Between Us translates as Między Nami in Polish, and is a reference to the ground floor café that opened 19 years ago – the first cafe-restaurant-gallery to offer an alternative scene to the leftovers of communism. The café is still going strong, and the owners have also added a small little store next door selling the little bits and trinkets that take their fancy. But there is also something else that they’re keeping between us, and that’s an exquisite bed and breakfast.

Two years back MN also took ownership of a second floor flat above the café, transforming it into three up-for-rent rooms graded small, medium and large. Decorated in shades of white, the lodgings have been designed with modernity and comfort in mind, and have been fitted with bespoke furnishings embossed with the names of top designers such as Peter Hvidt, George Nelson, Arne Jacobsen, Charles & Ray Eames. Stand warned, even staying for just one night is going to fill your head with ideas on how to renovate your own place.

Rates range from €85-130, and fluctuate with the season – but repeat customers are remembered, and if the owners have the availability, they will give you a more modest rate. Not that many find reason to complain. Each boasts a spa-like bathroom, though for proper pampering the largest comes with a bathroom divided from the main room with a glass wall – you feel like you’re in a French movie, roleplaying in a Jean-Luc Godard film.

For first time visitors to Warsaw, the whole Między Nami connection is a boon – breakfast in the café downstairs is included, and offers a great chance to strike up meandering conversations with the Poles, Brits and French ex-pats who frequent it. And even if you live here, it’s worth a night away from home with the other half. As Raymond Carver once said, “do me a favor this morning. Draw the curtain and come back to bed. Forget the coffee. We’ll pretend we’re in a foreign country, and in love.” (KD)

Hyatt Regency Warsaw ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www.mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

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LIFESTYLE ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500.

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, www.hiexpress.com

Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl

Sofitel Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl Radisson Blu pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Mecure ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000 Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl Hotel Reytan ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl

Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com

apartments

3-Star Hotels

Castle Inn Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc. Prices ca. €290.

Golden Tulip

MaMaison Residence Diana

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl

BROUGHT TO YOU BY BIKRAM YOGA WARSAW

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t last, the day yoga practitioners and enthusiasts in and around Warsaw have been waiting for! Poland’s first official Bikram Yoga Studio is now open on Jana Pawła. The studio was opened by long time practitioner and Bikram certified instructor Marta Hodgdon, recently returned to Poland after many years overseas, most recently in

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Dubai where she taught at the renowned Club Stretch.

A Bikram class is a series of 26 asanas lasting 90 minutes at 41 degrees celsius.

Hundreds of thousands of people worldwide find Bikram Yoga integral to their health and wellness. The benefits of Bikram have been cited by doctors in medical journals and there are numerous celebrity athletes, actors and models practicing regularly.

Regular practice will help with a multitude of afflictions ranging from thyroid problems to weight loss, stress to insomnia, diabetes to knee problems, kidney conditions to heart disease, depression to blood pressure and arthritis to back pain, allowing practitioners to maintain exceptional health for years to come. The postures work every part of the body down to a cellular level flushing toxins out.

Classes at Bikram Yoga Warsaw meet Tuesday through Sunday in the mornings and the evenings. Practitioners can fit sessions into their busy work schedule or take some time to relax and care for themselves on the weekend. The studio is spacious and well-lit with 200 square meters and many windows. It offers full locker room amenities including showers and locked, personal storage spaces. There are yoga matts and towels for rent or purchase.

Practitioners should wear tight sports clothes for class, and bring a change of clothes for after as it is guaranteed that you will sweat through whatever you wear during the session!

There are several packages available including an offer of 80 zł for 10 days of unlimited classes for first-timers.

Visit the website at www.bikram.pl, find the studio on Facebook under Bikram Yoga Warsaw or call the studio at 0048 888 20 40 20. Classes are offered in both Polish and English (check the website for exact times).

Bikram Yoga Al. Jana Pawła II 61 lok. 305, tel. 888 204 020, www.bikram.pl

ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

Vision Apartments Al. Jerozolimskie 81/22, tel. 22 292 8888, www.visionapartments.eu Founded in Switzerland, Vision specialize in the rental of high-quality furnished apartments and are known for their commitment to service and style. Having evolved into Switzerland’s market leader in furnished living, the company is now in the process of establishing footholds throughout Europe with a presence in Berlin, Geneva, Munich, Warsaw and Vienna. Find their Warsaw apartments in Platinum Towers on Grzybowska.

TRANSPORTATION CAR RENTAL

Avis tel. 22 572 6565, fax 22 572 6566, Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360. Reservations: tel. 22 500 1620, 800 143 789.

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, fax 22 511 1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, fax 022 650 2032, www.sixt.pl Trust Rent a Car ul. Marynarska 14, tel. 22 843 0580, mob. 602 475 355, 605 331 425, www. trustrentacar.pl

HEALTH & BEAUTY FITNESS

Holmes Place Premier ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841. www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland. Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment.

Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes,

excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. Their latest outpost in the Marriott also has a pool and has been updated accordingly to fit the HP quality check. For prices enquire direct.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40. www.riverview.com.pl The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł.

8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

Club Oasis Fitness Centre & Spa Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 22 851 0563, www.cluboasis.pl Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw, with state-of-the-art machines, great pool and Zen-like ambiance.

Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel, ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Fitness club, swimming pool, sauna, gym, group classes in one of Warsaw’s best five stars. zł.100 per day.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701 or 22 450 67 11. www.sheraton.com/warsaw. Fitness center, aerobic studio, sauna.

SPAS & SALONS

Holmes Place Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 22 851 0563, www.holmesplace.pl Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw. Amazing Clarins body firming and rejuvenating treatments, facials, reflexology and wide range of massages at the beauty center round out a healthy lifestyle.

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, tel. 22 241 3000 or 505 828 688, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-18:00. www.pedicure-place.pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-last guest.

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BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE NATIONAL MUSEUM IN WARSAW

The New-Look Gallery of Medieval Art at the National Museum in Warsaw

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he National Museum in Warsaw’s collection of medieval art, the richest and most diverse of its kind in Poland, will soon open to visitors in a completely new and unique format. Famous works such as the Beautiful Madonna from Wrocław, the Grudziądz Polyptych, the Annunciation with the Unicorn Polyptych, the Triptych with the Legend of Saint Stanislaus the Bishop and the monumental altarpiece from Pruszcz Gdański will be presented in a modern arrangement specifically designed to resonate with the modern viewer.

This fresh way of rediscovering medieval art and its many functions was developed by a young and distinguished team from the Warsaw-based architectural firm WWAA. The official opening of the gallery is set to take place on 11 December 2013.

The National Museum in Warsaw’s Gallery of Medieval Art consists mainly of works from the Late Middle Ages (14th–16th c.) originating from various regions of Poland, along with several examples of works from Western Europe.

These are items whose original functions were almost exclusively of an ecclesiastical nature. The gallery was designed

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in a way so as to allow viewers a most thorough picture of the role that works of art held in the religious life of the Middle Ages – a time when our modern understanding of art was still unheard of. The gallery features grand winged altarpieces, sculptures intended to adorn the so-called rainbow beam of a church, and ornate pillars, as well as many items of a much smaller scale: liturgical paraphernalia, small shrines, and paintings and sculptures for private devotional use. Such a broad overview of works enables visitors to form a clear picture of the full spectrum of artistic practices in the Middle Ages: painting, sculptures of wood, stone and alabaster and many artistic handicrafts. In contrast to the former arrangement of the gallery, the new design is meant to enlighten visitors to medieval visual culture, in which the church interior was a gathering place for a wide range of works from various fields of art.

“The circumstances of a museum exhibition cannot possibly convey every nuance of how these works functioned, though the way they are presented should engender reflection on the archaic functions of works of art and how they were used,” explains Antoni Ziemba, curator of the

Collection of Old European Art at the National Museum in Warsaw. “Visitors can walk around or at least view the rear side of nearly all of the pieces. It is important to be able to show the material from which the pieces were made, particularly on the reverse sides which are often unfinished and allow us to examine the wood or other material.”

Another driving force of the exhibition was to show both universal phenomena and those that were specific to certain regions in Medieval Europe. The gallery highlights interregional trends appearing in 12th–15th century art, such as the emancipation of sculpture during the Romanesque period, the central European sculptural trend of depicting the Madonna on a lion, and the International Gothic style circa 1400. Many of the pieces on display bear witness to the distinct nature of art from particular regions of central Europe: Silesia 1440–1520 (massive, multi-wing altarpieces, epitaphs, votive and didactic tablets, Ways of the Cross), Lesser Poland, Greater Poland and Kujawy 1440–1520 (altarpieces and devotional paintings) and Gdańsk and the northern Hanseatic Region 1420–1520 (grand altarpieces from Hamburg and Pomerania).

The layout of the exhibition space devised by the WWAA architectural studio (recipients of many awards, including accolades for the Polish Pavilion at the 2010 Expo in Shanghai) is not intended to mimic a church interior but to allow these exceptional works of medieval art to speak for themselves. Thanks to a novel mounting approach, multi-panelled polyptychs such as the Grudziądz Polyptych are now approachable from all sides, allowing viewers a first-time look at the reverse of the wings. Visitors will be able to learn about the full iconographical messages appearing on these monumental works of art. A significant change to the exhibition space was made by uncovering the windows looking out over the museum’s courtyard and by eliminating unnecessary divisions to the floor plan. In doing so, we have restored the original historical dimensions of the rooms designed by Tadeusz Tołwiński, the architect of the National Museum building.

The spatial configuration and the materials selected by WWAA make for a minimalist setting which is conducive to an effective presentation of the works and does not compete with the art on display. The dark, graphite wall colour and raw metal mounting brackets emphasise the mass of the pieces and propel them into the foreground.

A huge impact is made by the lighting: the artificial (spotlights) mingles with the natural (from the windows) to enliven the glistening golden backgrounds in many of the paintings and sculptures.

The programme of events to accompany the grand re-opening of the Gallery of Medieval Art includes interactive family workshops, gatherings inside the gallery and lectures in the screening room by renowned Medievalists, and concerts of classical music. Educational print materials will be available for children and adults along with audio tours – with a choice of either a classic guided tour or a musical soundtrack. For the visually-impaired, audio materials describing the works will be available along with tactile typhlographics. Hearing-impaired visitors will be offered a guided tour in Polish sign language.

The project is funded by the Polish Ministry of Culture and National Heritage. Patronage for the Gallery is provided by PKO Bank Polski – a long-time supporter of the National Museum in Warsaw.

THE NATIONAL'S NEW LOOK

New Arrangements of the Permanent Galleries of the National Museum in Warsaw • The museum was renovated in 2012, with a reconfiguration of the exhibition space offering visitors the following permanent attractions: the Gallery of European Old Masters, the Gallery of Old Polish and European Portraiture, the Gallery of 19th Century Art, and the Gallery of 20th and 21st Century Art. • The new incarnation of the permanent galleries is intended to integrate all of the former narratives – from archaeological study of old and classical antiquity through the Middle Ages and on to modernity – into a single, universal panorama of art and culture. This approach breaks with the outdated canons and blueprints of traditional museology stemming from classification according to period and “national school.” The new galleries of the National Museum in Warsaw present the common heritage of European civilisation while simultaneously acknowledging the specificities of epochs and regions, in turn revealing a great variety within the commonality. The outcome is a coherent story of art from Poland, Europe and the world.

• In autumn of 2014, the museum will open the Faras Gallery, the only gallery in Europe dedicated to Medieval Nubian art from the Nile river valley, featuring over 60 paintings from the 8th to 14th centuries. Meanwhile, the grand re-opening of the Gallery of Ancient Art in planned for 2015.

National Museum in Warsaw Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl

LIFESTYLE www.haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite of the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing expert staff and top-quality products.

Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 517 012 880, open daily 10:00-24:00, www. spasungate.pl A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments, manicure and pedicure, as well as a VIP room for couples.

Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404, open 10:00-22:00, Sat 9:00-18:00. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries.

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160 or 784 677 618, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-15:00. www.bodyclinic.pl Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and

some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-18:00. www. dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session.

Going futher East, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

Izar Repechage ul. Moliera 1, tel. 604 209 900 or 22 827 7195, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:0014:00. www.repechage.net.pl A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatment for the whole body.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00. www. jejijego.pl Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

and locations: www.luxmed.pl Malo Clinic Domaniewska 37 (3rd floor), tel. 22 393 6333. www.maloclinics.com/polska This world class dental clinic incorporates five dental offices, an operating room, two recovery rooms and a state-of-the-art diagnostic center.

Melitus ul. Słowackiego 12, tel. 22 833 7438, mob.

603 060 621, biuro@melitus.pl, www.melitus.pl Specializing in dermatology, surgery, phlebology, endocrinology, gynecology and internal medicine. The clinic is equipped with the latest and most innovative medical equipment and employs several renowned clinicians.

POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS

MEDICAL MEDICAL PRIVATE CLINICS

Ren Clinic Al. Gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok.

12A, tel. 22 414 2222 or 501 126 108, www. renclinic.pl Surgical care, cosmetics, medical dermatology, aesthetic medicine and more Lux Med Medical Clinics Various locations, see website for details

ACCOUNTING & IT SERVICES Al. Jerzego Waszyngtona 146, 04-076 Warszawa Tel +48 22 515 8054 Fax +48 22 870 6965 www.jjservices.pl jjservices@jjservices.pl

Edu & More ul. Nowogrodzka 44 / 7, tel. 22 622 14 41, office@polishonlinenow.com, www.polishonlinenow.com Polish Language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable prices. Intensive & regular Polish courses for beginners. Business & everyday Polish. Preparatory courses for the state exam as well as for the international ECL certificate in Polish. Morning, afternoon & evening classes.

Frog ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, tel. 22 403 7872 or 517 459 418, www.frog.org.pl Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish.

SERVICES J&J Services Al. Jerzego Waszyngtona 146, tel. 22 515 80 54, jjservices@jjservices.pl Accounting specialists dealing with domestic and foreign companies as well as individuals.

Can also help with renting meeting rooms, services related to company registration, general office and educational solutions not to mention the recruitment of staff.

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

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BEST OF WARSAW BEHIND THE SCENES

T’was a misty night in midNovember. Consulting its little black book of contacts, the Insider recruited a team of experts to put Warsaw’s top restaurants ruthlessly to the sabre. Included in that number: TV chef Joseph Seeletso; food journalist Monika Powalisz; two of Poland’s top bloggers; and our publisher and editorial monkeys. Gathering in the dimmed back room of Hoża

by Mondovino, what unraveled was an absorbing night of high drama, industry gossip and charged emotion.

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“ How has this restaurant not got a star? If this was Italy or France you can be guaranteed it’d have one by now. You’ve got to ask questions ” “ He does not belong on a list of top chefs – maybe ten years ago, sure. But now look at him, he’s never there, his minions do his work” “ X has sold himself out – his restaurant is like a resort hotel, he’s more concerned about getting bums on seats than doing anything special ” “ Without fail the best meal of my year. Each year I develop a new celebrity chef crush, and he’s definitely this year’s obsession”

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2013

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

THE JURY IS IN!