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DRINKS ISSUE Warsaw

Moving?

July 07 price zł.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

(203)

2013

(VAT 8% included)


to our readers

JULY 2013

THE ALCOHOLIDAYS

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Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com

on the cover Bottles – lots of them. Where once choice was limited, Warsaw is now spoiled with evening options. As such, a majestically stocked bar on the cover seemed a nobrainer.(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

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WARSAW INSIDER | JULY 2013

THE INSIDER’S SUMMER COOLER Wilanów Vibe 40 ml 20 ml 20 ml 10 ml 10 ml 5-6

Hennessy fresh cucumber juice water sugar syrup lemon juice fresh mint leaves Angostura

Mix all ingredients (apart from the Hennessy and Angoustra) in a shaker. Pour into an old fashioned glass filled 2/3 with crushed ice. After, add the Hennessy and gently pour out a dash of Angoustra. Bottoms up! Recipe created by Tomek Jasiński Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 400 1122, www.taste.pl

PHOTOGRAPH TOP LEFT BY BY KEVIN DEMARIA, TWO ON RIGHT BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

ell, well, well, what a summer it’s been – we’ve had drizzle, downpours and even a deluge: I never thought I’d see cars floating down Trasa Toruńska, but once more, Warsaw has exceeded expectations. Fortunately, it appears the worst is over (cue thunder bolts and earth tremors). The sun is out and, at last, it appears we can finally get down to the serious business of enjoying it. For me, that means a number of things: barbecues, day trips, and panting about on my circus issue bike. It also means enjoying some drinks here and there... To many people my CV suggests I flunked out of university, yet I don’t look back on that period as time wasted. You see, while I didn’t leave with any academic qualifications, I did leave with a degree in Alcohology – and it’s proved infinitely more useful than the English literature I originally went to study. So as you’d expect, to work on the Insider’s inaugural drinks issue has been a pleasure from the off. But, don’t for one minute think we picked this theme to allow me extra time down the pub. We’ve picked the theme because, quite frankly, Warsaw’s nightlife has never been better. I’m exaggerating a little, but you don’t have to go far back to when drinking in the city was a toss-up between vodka or Żywiec. Devoid of elaboration, it wasn’t a happy place for night owls who valued such trifles as variety and quality. That’s changed, and it’s changed considerably. Locally speaking, the summer has already welcomed the birth of the brew bar, and we’re seeing more new wave breweries getting seriously creative. Advances continue to be made in the cocktail sector, while wine too has seen sales steadily rise. In all, Warsaw’s nightlife can at last stand proud. Enjoy it, and enjoy the issue. Till next time, cheers!


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what’s inside

JULY 2013

FEATURES

16 Theme Bars In search of character and charisma in Warsaw’s weirdest watering holes 18 Wine The grape renaissance

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INfront

13 News in Brief Storms thrash Warsaw, Polonia’s demise, SMYK vanquished, plus news 30 Warsaw Foodie The latest from the blog frontline Editor-in-chief Art Director Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Agata Torańska atoranska@valkea.com Justyna Gagacka jgagacka@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

LISTINGS

Culture

Restaurants

07 Opener Interview: DJ Wika 08 Calendar Music, art and events around town 10 Museums Listings

20 Interview Kuba Kajetan Szulczewski of Cuda Na Kiju

31 Insider’s Pick Thai Thai 52 Insider’s Pick TASTE Wilanów

22 Interview The lads of Chmielarnia

23 Craft Beers Poland’s upcoming beers

59 Insider’s Pick Winosfera

24 The Mayor Clubbing do’s and dont’s

63 Insider’s Pick Kufle i Kapsle

25 Healthy Drinks The smoothie revolution

26 Food & Drink The night before and the morning after

28 The Guvnors Warsaw’s ex-pat landlords spill the beans 29 The Hard Stuff A roundup of Warsaw’s top spots for liqour 88 Why Warsaw? Tyler Robertson of Two Wheel Travel Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Iza Depczyk Karolina Kalinowska Agnieszka Le Nart Michał Miszkurka Paula Rewald Ed Wight

Cafes & Wine Bars

Nightlife

Shopping

71 Insider’s Pick A & A Bath

Children

75 Insider’s Pick Caffe Pavillion

Lifestyle

81 Insider’s Pick Hotel Krasicki 84 Street Index 85 Classifieds 86 Warsaw Map

Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through insider@ warsawinsider.pl

Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS tel. 022 783-6000

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2013 Warsaw Insider.

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Interview: Wirginia Szmyt a.k.a. DJ Wika 7

CULTURE EVENTS 7 / MUSEUMS 10

a project where she invited young and old people together so they could interact, talk and dance together in order to break down generational gaps. She asked me to DJ at one of her events, and naturally I agreed. After this it snowballed: a magazine wrote an article about me, and then suddenly I wasn’t just Wirginia Szmyt, I was now DJ Wika!

Interview: DJ Wika

What do your children think of you being a DJ? They’re very happy for me, although it’s not like they come to my sets. Yes they have been a couple of times, but in fact it’s my grandchildren who find it ‘very cool’, as they say. Were you a party animal as a teenager? Hmm, I wouldn’t say party animal, but I always loved music and dancing. I am a firm believer that music breaks down all barriers. That’s why I love that I can use music to bring attention to issues which are really important to me. I’m a living example that old people aren’t useless and if we learn to talk to each other, there is a lot that younger generations can learn from older generations, and vice versa. It’s a question of how open we are to listening. What makes a good party? To be honest, it takes 2-3 people who like to dance, want to dance, and the rest just follow them. I judge a good party by how many people I see getting their groove on. The more dancers, the better the party!

Granny in da’ House PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

74-year-old Wirginia Szmyt takes time out from the turntables to talk to the Insider about her secret alter-ego: DJ Wika! BY IZA DEPCZYK

How did you get into DJing? I’ve always loved music, and I love entertaining people, so DJing was a nice way of connecting the two passions. Back in the day I would organize cultural evenings and cabarets for my peers, so I thought DJing was a natural progression from that. The real DJing started when I retired and realized that the elderly form a very large yet very marginalized section of society. I had the

impression that once someone turns 60 they are no longer treated as relevant. I decided to change that. I started organizing tourist trips, cultural events and evenings for the elderly. I wanted to make them feel that just because they were older, it didn’t mean that they were no longer important. Most crucially, I wanted to show that that they could still enjoy life. Well, during one of these evenings for the elderly, I was approached by a girl conducting

What are your favorite tracks to play? The music I play depends on who I am playing for. When I’m playing a set in a club I go for chart music: J-Lo, Gaga, Rihanna… When I play for older people I tend to play rock’n’roll or swing. Did you ever think you’d be famous? No, and I’m still shocked when someone recognizes me on the street, or wants an autograph after a set. Or even when someone asks me to be interviewed! Do I like the attention? Well, I am not a celebrity or anything. I am not hounded by paparazzi, so it’s not as tiresome as real fame, celebrity fame, can be. And I like it for one reason: that it allows me to talk about issues like these generation gaps which should and can be easily bridged.

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CULTURE Ongoing Until 21

Ongoing Until 28

Ongoing Through July

XXIII Mozart Festival various locations

Jazz in the Old Town Old Town Square Running each Saturday throughout the summer, the 19th edition of Jazz in the Old Town will bring together a number of international artists to perform for free in the Rynek. Attracting audiences of up to 4,000 people, this year’s line-up had yet to be announced at press time – check for latest info at: www.jazznastarowce.pl

The 23rd Warsaw Mozart Festival kicks off with a premiere of Cosi Fan Tutte at the Warsaw Chamber Opera, before concluding on 21st July at Wilanów Palace. Sandwiched in between, find daily performances by the Warsaw Chamber Opera in a medley of locations that include the Royal Castle, the Church of the Holy Cross and Łazienki. For ticket details and further info, check: operakameralna.pl

13th Music Gardens Festival Royal Castle Gardens, pl. Zamkowy 4 Find ballet, films and concerts performed in the Royal Castle grounds as part of the 13th Music Gardens Festival. This year is themed around the work of bard Adam Mickiewicz and his Lithuanian connection. Tickets from zł. 7-25, available from the Royal Castle box office.

CONCERT

FESTIVAL

Media Patronage

CONCERT

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CONCERT ZAZ Hala Koło, ul. Obozowa 60 Recognizable by her quirky nickname ZAZ and jazzy hit “Je Veux”, this charming French singer will grace Warsaw as part of Warsaw’s Francophonic Festival and a third album promotional tour. Tickets from zł. 130 available at ticketpro.pl or eventim.pl.

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DANCE

July 8 to July 26 Marco Angelini Life and suspension: the sacred space

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pening on July 8th, 6 p.m., this exhibition of Italian modern art focuses on the work of Rome-born Marco Angelini. Firmly established in Poland, Angelini is known to experiment with recycled materials, and utilize plastic and metal. Says one critic: “in his new project Angelini draws attention to the spiritual dimension: its intention is to enter into the sacred space by using the items appropriated by religion through the power of transfiguration.” For more on the artist and his mission, check: www.marcoangelini.it

XXI Gallery al. Jana Pawła II 36. Open Mon-Wed, Fri 11:00-17:00; Thur 13:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00

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Pole Dance Cup Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Over 50 dancers will compete for title of Poland’s erm best Pole Dancer, not to mention a grand prize of €2,500. Held over two days, there’s also a performance from Marion Crampe, an established star known for her ‘extreme Pole dancing’. One day passes from zł. 59-99, and two day passes from zł. 129-159.

5, 6 & 7

FESTIVAL 21st Street Art Festival Various locations Once more, find the festival showcasing abstract, often hilarious, street theater plays courtesy of troupes from the Czech Republic, Russia, Belarus, France and Poland. The festival aims to integrate art within the everyday landscape of the city, and as such you can expect

events to take place in parks, subway passageways, squares and other public spaces. For more info, check: www. sztukaulicy.pl

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MARKET Culinary Market at La Playa La Playa, Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5 The trend of slow food markets has spread to the popular summer beach hangout on the Praga side of the Wisła. But this time, you will find a mixing of flavors and smells like never before with dishes brought straight from the kitchens of Warsaw’s food bloggers, local producers and restaurants.

CONCERT Joe Satriani Amphitheatre at Park Sowińskiego, ul. Elekcyjna 17 Mick Jagger’s lead guitarist, check. Hailed as the only true successor of Jimi Hendrix, check. World tour, check. If hearing the art of a guitar virtuoso is not enough, may the prime location of the outdoor amphitheater lure you. Tickets from: ticketpro.pl or eventim.pl

6 & 20

WORKSHOP Djembe workshops Café Baobab, ul. Francuska 31 An initiative happening almost every Saturday starting at 17:00, from June to August, these workshops, concerts and jam sessions bring the art of playing the djembe and a wealth of West African culture to Saska Kępa. All ages welcome. Entry is free.

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CONCERT Varsovia Brass Quintet Park Kombatantów, Ks. Chrościckiego 2 The performance of the versatile Varsovia Brass Quintet is a true musical travel through

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF ARTISTS OR ORGANIZERS

EVENTS THIS MONTH


the ages, skillfully interplaying classical all the way from Bach up to Duke Ellington. Entry is free.

7 onwards CONCERT

Summer with Music Ogród Saski Open-air summer concerts happening every Sunday until August, showcasing all from tango, Mozart and baroque to ragtime. Set in the majestic Saski Park in the center. Starts at 16:00. Entry is free.

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CONCERT Bush Klub Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Boasting a sound that was compared to Pearl Jam and Nirvana, they were the most commercially successful rock band of the American 90s. Reactivated in 2010 and now on tour! Tickets from: ticketpro.pl

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EVENT 2nd Morskie Oko Run Morskie Oko Park Challenge yourself and see how you measure up against novices and pros alike over five picturesque kilometers through the winding paths of the Morkie Oko Park. From zł. 30. To sign up, check: www.biegmorskieoko. pl/zapisy

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FESTIVAL Warsaw Summer Jazz Days 2013 various locations July is definitely the Jazz Month of Warsaw, the highlight of which is the Summer Jazz Days festival, dating all the way back to the 90s. Spread over multiple locations and multiple styles and interpretations, this festival is your answer for jazz in the city. Keep an eye out for John Zorn, the Antonio Sanchez Quartet, Wayne

Shorter, Andrea Marcelli Trio and Paco de Lucia. For further info check, www.adamiakjazz.pl. Tickets from: ticketpro.pl

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CONCERT Paco de Lucia Sala Kongresowa, Plac Defilad 1 The Spanish born Flamenco guitarist, composer and producer arrives in Warsaw with an unrivaled reputation for his innovative style and fast picados. According to some critics: “one of history’s greatest guitarists. Tickets from: eventim.pl

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CONCERT Natalie Cole Sala Kongresowa, Plac Defilad 1 The daughter of the legendary crooner Nat ‘King’ Cole is a name in her own right, becoming one of the most celebrated jazz artists of recent times with a haul of 14 Grammies. Back in PL after four years to debut material from her upcoming album. Tickets from: ticketpro.pl

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CONCERT Wayne Shorter Quartet Soho Factory, ul. Mińska 25 Hailed by the New York Times as, “probably jazz’s greatest living small-group composer and a contender for greatest living improviser,” 79-year old Shorter & Co. land in Warsaw to perform tracks from their latest album Without a Net, as well as hits from their back catalogue. Tickets available from: ticketpro.pl

21 & 28 EVENT

Łazienki Królewskie Cup 2013 Finals Łazienki Królewskie Casual horse-riding competitions coupled with horse shows, this is now an inherent part of the attractions of this most stately of

Warsaw’s parks. Taking place where the park’s pre-war hippodrome used to stand, they are a salute to the gallantry of past entertainments. Entry is free.

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CONCERT Depeche Mode National Stadium,

al. Poniatowskiego 1 After three decades at the top, these British boys need no introduction - after Coldplay, Beyonce and McCartney it’s time for these pioneers of electro doom rock to shake the National Stadium. Part of their highly acclaimed European tour, it’s set to be the highlight of summer ’13. Tickets from: eventim.pl

SUMMER FESTIVALS Ongoing till 7 23rd Jewish Culture Festival Kraków Internationally acclaimed, Kraków’s festival of Jewish culture binds together an expansive program of concerts, lectures, workshops, screenings, walks and suchlike over the course of a week. The big night to watch for is the final Saturday, which sees Szeroka street transformed into the world’s biggest Jewish concert stage! For full schedule and ticket info see: jewishfestival.pl

3-6 Heineken Open’er Festival Gdynia-Kosakowo Airport, Gdynia A staple of every teenager and music-loving young-at-heart’s summer, each year Open’er draws hordes with its fantastic line-ups. This year hike up to the coast to see the likes of Arctic Monkeys, Crystal Castles, Blur and Kings of Leon. Tickets from www.alterart.pl

26-28 Sunrise ul. Fredry 1, Kołobrzeg A coastal dancefest with star billing given to Axwell, Alesso, Fedde Legrand, Chuckie, Neno and a gazillion other performers. Launched in 2003, the event has become one of the keynote dance festivals in the CEE region. Tickets available from: bilety.sunrisefestival.pl

26-28 Audioriver Rybaki 8, Płock A three day alternative music festival with an emphasis placed on electronica. Acts confirmed include Richie Hawtin, Jeff Mills, Paul Kalkbrenner, Zombie Nation and Dirtyphonics. Tickets available from: www.audioriver.pl

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CULTURE MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www. kopernik.org.pl. Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art. pl. Situated in a baroque-style

castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Annie Leibovitz, Wilhelm Sasnal, Andy Warhol). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing until August 18: Sharon Lockhart. Milena, Milena. One of the dominant figures on the American art scene, this exhibition presents the film and photographic work of this influential artist. Ongoing until August 18: Olaf Brzeski. Samolub [Egoist]. A retrospective exhibition of this fascinating artist encompassing sculpture,

Media Patronage

film and drawing. Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl. The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion. Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.mhw.pl. The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film titled We Will Remember, it details the powerful story behind the destruction of Warsaw.

Mark Rothko

Paintings from the National Gallery of Art Preludes of the Museum of the in Washington History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6. Slated to open

in full in the first half of 2014, 7 / 06 – 1 / 09 / 2013

this hugely impressive museum is already luring streams of onlookers eager to preview the temporary exhibits housed in Untitled, 1953 mixed media on canvas, 195 × 172.1 cm National Gallery of Art, Washington. the opening halls. Ongoing until Gift of The Mark Rothko Foundation, Inc. 1986.43.135 September Image courtesy of the National Gallery of Art, Washington 30: Letters to Afar. A video installation by Péter Ongoing Forgács composed of film clips Mark Rothko from Jewish immigrants’ visits to Paintings from the National Gallery of Art in their hometowns in Poland in the Washington 20s and 30s. The National Museum in Warsaw, Aleje Jerozolimskie 3

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unning through summer the National Museum in Warsaw will host an exhibition of Mark Rothko – the first time that works by Rothko will be exhibited in Poland. A key player in the New York School, this master of 20th century art is best known for his large abstract color-field paintings. Described as a ‘dark master’ and ‘the Rembrandt of this time’, the show touches on all his artistic periods: his early realist pieces, the surrealism of the late ’30s and early ’40s, and abstract multiforms through to his iconic color-field paintings. Supplementing the show, an installation by Nicolas Grospierre brings to life Rothko’s birthplace.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, www.chopin.museum. Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl

Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, www. krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl. Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has

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decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. Ongoing until August 13: Clinamen, an exhibition of sculptures by Iza Tarasewicz. Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com. Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna.  Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl. The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary art, including the works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Miroslaw Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski. Ongoing until January 6: In the Heart of the Country. The first comprehensive presentation of the museum’s international collection of art. Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, www.muzeum-techniki.waw. pl. The very opposite of the new-fangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine.  National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw. art.pl. Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Ongoing from June 6: Mark Rothko. The first


monographic exhibition of the works of Rothko held in Central / Eastern Europe. The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www.neonmuzeum.org. A complete departure from the stuff museums in Poland are famed for, this long awaited project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s. Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw. pl. An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by

exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26. What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www.postermuseum.pl. With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002,

and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol. Ongoing until August 31: A biannual nationwide retrospective of the contemporary Polish poster. Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl. Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising. Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk. Zachęta National Art Gallery

Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl. Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera. Ongoing until August 4: Freelancer. Explores the condition of the artist as a freelancer. Ongoing until November 30: Christian Hutzinger’s W/W. Installation combining painting and architecture. Ongoing until August 18: Peter Land. Naked. Works in various mediums of one of the most prominent contemporary Dutch artists. Until July 28: Janicka & Wilczyk. Another City. A photographic project that visually maps the ‘post-ghetto’ space where Warsaw’s Jewish ghetto used to be, reflecting on the development of postwar Warsaw.

Christian Jankowski: Heavy-weight History The exhibition is open everyday (except Mondays): 12 – 7 p.m., Fridays until 9 p.m. Centre for Contemporary Art, Ujazdowski Castle, ul. Jazdów 2, Warszawa

Casting Jesus, 2011 © Luise Müller-Hofstede Courtesy: Proyectos Monclova, Mexico City; Klosterfelde, Berlin; and Lisson Gallery, London

8th June – 25th August 2013

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INFRONT FOOTBALL 14 / LOCAL 14 / NATIONAL 13 / NEWS 14 / VIRAL 14

NATIONAL

Floody Hell

PHOTOGRAPH BY SHUTTERSTOCK

Having escaped much of the weather that had wreaked havoc across Central Europe this summer, Warsaw was brought to a standstill on June 9 after being lashed by storms. The city was rocked when over 30 liters of water per square meter fell on the capital in a brutal three hour period. Worst hit was Trasa Toruńśka in the north of the city, with dramatic news footage capturing abandoned cars bobbing helplessly in the water. Fire crews were called into action to rescue trapped motorists, with emergency services utilizing dinghies to aid their operations. The flash flooding left four metro stops temporarily closed, and paralyzed much of the city. But while most Polish news cameras were trained on the capital, Warsaw escaped relatively lightly compared to SkarzyskoKamienna which bore the brunt of the weather. Amazingly though, the metrological drama has coincided with news that the European Commission is considering withdrawing over two billion złoty’s worth of financial aid earmarked for the prevention of flooding. In a statement delivered by the Environment Ministry, Poland has been warned by Brussels that it has failed ‘to develop an integrated flood management system,’ and as a consequence may be forced to repay substantial funds it has already received. Prime Minister Donald Tusk remains unfazed, stating that he considers there to be no risk of losing the funds.

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INFRONT

BRIEFING VIRAL

Lost in Translation

LOCAL

Iconoclasm

Cult kids store Smyk closed their flagship operation on Krucza in mid-June, leading to an outpouring of anger amongst Warsaw nostalgists. Considered by many as the Polish version of Hamley’s, the building has become an iconic city landmark since opening as a department store in 1950. A classic example of post-war functionalism, it had served as a kids store since 1970, and just about survived a notorious arson attack in 1975. But while Smyk have vacated the premises, authorities have moved fast to guarantee the building’s future as an office block.

A British holidaymaker became the unwitting subject of global news reports after a nasty discovery in a Poznań restaurant. While looking through the menu of ex-pat favorite BeeJay’s, Owen Durray was gob smacked to find ‘cervical cancer’ listed amid other standard dishes. Having alerted a local news portal, the Kent-based businessman was even more startled when the story went viral and was picked up by international agencies. Tracked down by the Insider, Durray quipped: “I was up for ordering the damn thing, but the beetroot put me off.”

ED WIGHT’S NEWS BITES THE TEXT-ORCIST A priest who carried out an exorcism on a girl says he is now being inundated with text messages from the devil. Father Karol Starczewski from Bieliny said: “The exorcism was difficult and the devil was making her spit and snarl as I forced him out. But since getting rid of him I have been receiving abusive text messages from her phone. It seems he is out to get me and her telephone is now possessed.”

BUST-ED Polish motorists would rather look at girls’ boobs than road signs, a bizarre experiment by traffic cops has revealed. Police in Silesia used two models in hot pants and low cut tops and star rally driver Maciej Dreszer – complete with his racing car – to stand under a sign showing a 44 km p/hr speed limit. They then stopped drivers 100 meters down the road and asked them what they remembered seeing. “Everyone remembered seeing the girls,” the police said, adding only a handful had spotted the speed sign.

FOOTBALL

It’s All Over Now

It’s been a mixed summer for local football fans – while Legia celebrated winning a domestic league and cup double, cross-city rivals Polonia were stripped of their top flight status following financial meltdown. Despite finishing the season in sixth place, Warsaw’s oldest club were punished after failing to meet a deadline to clear a debt running into several million. With a fire sale of players expected, as well as eviction from their historic ground, Polonia are likely to start next season condemned to the purgatory of the regional leagues.

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WARSAW INSIDER | JULY 2013

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

GLOBAL PHWOARMING A Warsaw girl is planning to sleep her way into the record books – by bedding 100,000 men around the world. Randy Ania Lisewska told her Facebook followers she wants to sleep with men in every city in the world for her sex marathon. “In Poland the subject of sex is still taboo and anyone who wants to fulfill their sexual fantasies is considered a deviant, a whore or mentally ill,” she said. Ania says the marathon began in Warsaw last month and won’t stop until she reaches her total.


DRINKS THEME BARS

OSiR

The Cream of the Theme

With the soulless cosmopolitan look now established around town, it’s sometimes good to stand out. This issue, we gather the capital’s most outlandish bars to salute the glinting twilight glory of the Warsaw theme bar!

ul. Tamka 40 OSiR’s manifesto declares it a ‘cycle culture’ café, which means incoming guests should brace for all kinds of bike related props in this urban, raw and ready hideout. Beyond the cycling propaganda, there’s much to recommend: rare find beers, street-style hot dogs, and a cool, tranquil crowd.

Ukryte Miasto

ul. Noakowsiego 16

Paradox

ul. Anielewicza 2 Weird? You bet! Cynics call it a cradle of geeks and freaks, but they’re missing the point. In the shape of Warsaw’s first ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play pub’, the city has a highly magnetic venue which intrigues curiosity seekers with all its orcs and elves and underarm smells.

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Warsaw is never going to challenge as Europe’s happiest city, and let Exhibit 1 be the lack of comedy clubs. There is hope though, and that’s provided by Klub Komediowy Chłodna – freshly exiled from the wastelands of Mirów to the back room of Ukryte Miasto.


Gniazdo Piratów ul. Ogólna 5

PHOTO BY MANI ŚWIĄTEK

Ever heard of a famous Polish pirate? We haven’t either. But don’t let that red light the fun. This pirate themed bar has it all: squint, and you might think you’re on board Blackbeard’s galleon. Once the sea shanties begin, it’s difficult not to join in the spirit (if in doubt, a large drink helps).

Black Sheep

Al. Jana Pawła II 45A

A dazzle of vivid, vibrant colors announce Black Sheep, a three floor fortress that serves a dual purpose: that of a bar and a snowboard shop. By in large the two functions are kept segregated, but chances remain high that you’ll be drinking with Polski-style skater girls and hoodie-topped surf dudes.

Klaps

ul. Nowy Świat 22/28 There’s kinks and giggles aplenty in Klaps, a candidate for Warsaw’s smuttiest pub. Yes, the walls are covered in squeaky plastic boobs. And yes, those are dildos for beer pumps. But these rather perky gimmicks aside, it’s not a bad bar, and one consistently thronged with a young, playful crowd.

OSP

ul. Walecznych 74 A pub in a fire station – does it get better than that? Yes it does. Novelty factor aside, it’s very much worth the visit – even if the fire theme isn’t overt. Listen to upcoming bands, drink weird beers, scope out local hipsters, banter with off-duty fire bods, and (finally) prance about posing in helmets and goggles. Amazing!

Meta

ul. Mazowiecka 11 & Foksal 21 Riding the wave of Communist nostalgia, Meta blow the competition out of the water with their jaunty look at the PRL – yes, that really is a string of toilet paper hanging over your head. The interior thrills with its whacky collection of household, commie-era debris, as do the prices: firmly frozen in a bygone time.

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DRINKS WINE

Wine of the Times

The words wine and Poland are not natural bedfellows. But, after years on the sidelines, the grape is back with a bang. BY ALEX WEBBER

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ine is once more making a splash in Poland. “Once more?” you ask… Yes indeed. “It’s wrong to say the culture is new to Poland,” corrects Katarzyna Chelpińska, co-owner of Haka and prolific wine blogger. “Look at Polish literature and you’ll see how important wine was in the past – it’s a history that dates all the way back to when Queen Bona married into the Polish royal family. And while the petitions damaged our wine culture, it was still maintained. What destroyed it was the war.” The political changes that followed the collapse of the Iron Curtain opened the door anew. Quicker than most to sense the opportunity was New Zealander John Borrell, a war correspondent who left the battle lines to create the Kania Lodge retreat in the north of Poland. “When I opened the lodge in the 90’s it was very difficult to find interesting wine in Poland,” says Borrell, “there was cheap and expensive. So I imported a pallet of New Zealand and other wines from a distributor in Britain. Guests loved the wines and most took cases home with them. Then they started calling asking if I could send them cases. I did and soon realized there was an untapped market of mainly expatriates in Warsaw and


PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

elsewhere. So I started Wine Express...” Now, many years on, Wine Express (wine-express.pl) has evolved to become an industry giant. “The fact that the choice of wines was so limited in the early 90's made things relatively easy. We were the first company, for example, to import wine from New Zealand – we instantly had customers.” For Borrell, the problem wasn’t finding the buyers, but supplying them. “We sent our first wine with the conductors of passenger trains running from Gdańsk to Warsaw. Clients had to be at the train station to collect the wine.” But this was still a time of vodka. Borrell estimates 90% of his orders went direct to ex-pats (today, the figure has swung to 90% Polish), and it’s not difficult to imagine a country trapped largely in ignorance. Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, grew up in such times: “When I was 18 I knew nothing about wine, my colleagues knew nothing, and neither did my family.” For Strzelczyk, his break came when he failed his entry exams for a physical academy – instead, looking to broaden his options, he joined a hospitality and tourism course, a complex path that would ultimately take him to his current role as sommelier of Le Regina. “When I started my parents thought I was a waiter,” he laughs, “for all I know, they probably still think that.”

The future, he believes, lies in the new generation. “Young people want to learn about wine,” he says, “to taste it. You can even observe that in pubs and bars. The power is with the younger generation. Older Poles still prefer, ahem, other alcoholic beverages.” In spite of its growth, Poland’s nascent wine culture faces a steep uphill climb. “We’ve seen a non-stop increase in consumption,” says Katarzyna Chelpińska, “but it’s still tiny compared to France, Spain or even Sweden.” And the barriers to further development? “It’s still not going the way it should,” says Chelpińska, “we need normal language, wine needs to be reachable. People who talk and write about wine do so in a way many don’t understand. People avoid specialized shops because it’s natural that no-one likes being perceived as knowing very little. I want to give people a platform to gain that knowledge.” The problem of education is being gradually breached by the inroads made courtesy of the supermarket chains. “Paradoxically,” says Chelpińska, “chains have played a huge role in popularizing wine – and you have to start somewhere. Some of the wines at Biedronka and Lidl are decent, and they bring it down to a level where people can start a relationship with it. My belief is cheap wine has allowed people to learn, and once people have tried one wine several times, they then start to crave something better.” That wine has gradually pushed vodka off the dinner table is telling. “When we first started vodka was still the alcohol of choice,” says John Borrell, “you'd see it on tables at banquets, events and family dinners. Now wine has taken over. Although the majority of wine sold in Poland is still in the price range of zł. 20 or below, consumption of mid-range and premium wines has also grown significantly.” There are faint hopes, also, for domestic wine. “Most Polish wine is not great,” says Borrell, “but it’s not the producer's fault. The big problem is the climate. Most of Poland is too cold to produce consistently good grape harvests. That said, the quality has gone up tremendously in the last 15 years. One of the biggest producers produces some very drinkable if not great wines.”

“ Young people want to learn about wine, to taste it. The power is with the younger generation” Strzelczyk, too, is quietly positive. “We definitely need a few more years. In ten years our producers will be more experienced and the vines will be older. We also need to work on our grape suitability and buy better equipment. But with the effects of global warming, Poland might have better wine conditions than Sicily by 2025 / 2030.” So, just what is the future of the wine industry as a whole? “It will take a lot of time,” says Chelpińska, “but we’ll get there. For instance, I’m noticing a lot of smaller importers – that's definitely a sign we’ve been noticed as a market.” And for Andrzej Strzelczyk? “In ten years I think we’ll be able to say Poland has a wine culture. I want this to become a country where people don’t just drink wine on New Year’s Eve, but on normal everyday occasions – I want Poles to treat wine as a natural thing.” facebook.com/warsawinsider

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DRINKS TAP BEER

nice having to kick people out for singing Sto Lat. It took us two years to find this location, but its perfect – in summer we can finally have things like an open-air cinema, bicycle polo and Frisbee games. And with this building, we didn’t need an interior design, either – our design is the city outside. Has your immediate impact been a surprise? You are aware your success will breed copycats… This place was two years in the making, so to become so popular straight away was a surprise. But as regards the other multi-taps, we have a good relationship with them, we’re friends. Look, Warsaw is a city of two million people – even if there were ten multi-tap bars that wouldn’t be enough. Tell us about the bad days of Polish beer… For a time it seemed like Poles didn’t care that our beer smelled of nothing, tasted of nothing. Then Poles began importing beers from Germany and Belgium, and also brewing at home, and we realized beer didn’t have to taste like water. But while the industry is growing here, supply remains a big problem. Maybe Polish brewing needs another year. What mistakes do Polish pubs make… Most store their beer at room temperature: to cool it they put it through a ‘flow cooler’ that chills the beer in seconds. It’s barbarian! Well we don’t do that. Our beer is kept at low temperatures downstairs. And if we get a new one, we won’t serve it straight away – we prefer to wait a day, to give the beer time to cool down and get comfortable. The taste and smell would change if we didn’t. We also clean our pipes every day: you know, most bars only do that once a year!

Warsaw’s latest trend, the multi-tap bar, has taken the city by storm. This issue, the Insider taps up Kuba Kajetan Szulczewski, one of the faces behind Cuda na Kiju, for the inside scoop. WI: Some are already calling this the bar of the summer – where did it all begin? KKS: Actually, this isn’t our first bar – you might have heard of the Spy Bar: Spotkanie za Szpiegiem. But with the Spy we were limited by space: you’d get maybe twenty people there, sixty if it was really hardcore, but that was it. Also, we wanted a place that wouldn’t cause problems with the neighbors: it’s not nice making neighbors angry, and it’s not

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What’s the biggest problem facing Warsaw pubs? Their neighbors. Not being allowed to make noise after 10 p.m. really hurts and limits the development of the bar scene. Speaking personally, it’s hard to find time to educate people about beer. I’d love to talk to everyone that comes in here, to tell them that this Belgian beer has little hints of raspberry – but when you have so many customers you just can’t talk to everyone. This building is the former Communist HQ. Any nasty secrets we should know? It doesn’t belong to us, but in the basement car park there’s a statue of Lenin leftover from those days – you can rent it for zł. 1,000 per day! Cuda Na Kiju ul. Nowy Świat 6/12

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

The Beer Meister

Do you have a favorite brewery? I like Artezan a lot, but we don’t stock beer just because it’s from a particular brewery or from a particular region. I’d love to see Ukrainian beer here, and also Marsilia from Italy – it’s brewed using sea salt!


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DRINKS TAP BEER/CRAFT BEER

The Multi-Tap Revolution

All of a sudden, Poland has found a taste for high quality beer. As the trend spreads around the country, the Insider talks to the three men behind Warsaw’s latest tap bar: Chmielarnia.

You’re in the basement of the Fishing Institute – bit strange isn’t it? On the one hand we don’t have our own proper entrance, but the good thing with this location is you can party till 3 a.m. We don’t have residents above, so they’re not going to stop the party. Also, regards the location, you’ve got to realize our beers are aimed at real beer lovers – connoisseurs almost. People will search these beers out, and they will see Chmielarnia as a real destination. You’re chef and business partner is formerly of Katmandu restaurant. That’s a bit unexpected… My father-in-law is Nepalese and it’s quite a small community here – that’s how I met our Nepalese chef, Ram. We’d been thinking of opening our own place for a

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while, and Ram had been thinking of opening his own, so we eventually started talking about possible cooperation. I didn’t think it could work at first, but then Ram proposed a menu to us and we thought the combination was good. There’s been a real boom in Polish craft beer – does the boom have a ceiling? There’s so many opportunities for new breweries that I fully expect them to continue to thrive and grow. Craft beers first took off in the States fifteen years ago and they’re still as popular as ever: no-one has got bored of them. I expect the same here. If there is a problem the industry faces, it’s with bureaucracy. To start a brewery in Poland you need about 180 different permissions – in Czech that just doesn’t happen. Are multi-taps going to take over Warsaw? There’s four multi-taps in Warsaw, so in this respect there’s still plenty of room to grow. We want to lift ourselves above the competition by offering proper food – not microwave snacks or dried fish. Go to a pub in England and you can get both good food and good beer: that’s what we want to achieve here. Chmielarnia ul. Twarda 42

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

WI: Up till recently Polish brewing was a bit of a disaster, was it not? C: For years local breweries were bought out and shut down by Carlsberg and Heineken, a situation which left Poland with literally three or so beers that all tasted the same. It took time for people to miss these little breweries. It also took time for people to develop an interest and taste for beer, but it happened. Tasting beers from the West for the first time was a real education – I loved Fosters when I first tried it! Of course, now I realize that’s not a proper beer!


(Top shelf from left) IMPERIUM ATAKUJE by PINTA The Empire Attacks! A high hop IPA from one of Poland’s most exciting young breweries. Real top table material. KING OF HOP by ALE BROWAR One of the beers of the summer. Elvis on the label, and a distinctly hoppy aroma. Top marks! WIDAWA KUGUAR by BROWAR WIDAWA / KOPYRA An APA resulting from a collaboration between Widawa and Kopyra. A punchy beer with a hoppy bitterness. PIWO W STYLU GRODZISKIE by ARTEZAN From Poland’s original craft brewery. Say the lads at Piwonia: “It’s the one and only beer that’s true to Polish style.” (Middle shelf from left) CZARNY KUR by BROWAR WIDAWA A dark, muddy beer, with hints of dark chocolate, coffee and caramel. An acquired taste. PIWO ZAMOJSKIE CIEMNE by BROWAR ZAMOŚĆ Bottom fermented beer with a delicate hops and caramel aroma. A bitter taste interweaves malt and caramel tastes. ORKA KILLER WHALE by BROWAR WIDAWA A black IPA with an intense bitterness and earthy, smoky hints and caramel and coffee after taste. Not for beginners! PODRÓŻE KORMORANA AMERICAN IPA A high scoring beer that, say the crew at Piwonia, “is a good example of how medium-sized breweries have responded to the ‘Polish beer revolution’.”

In Stock

From zero to hero: where once Polish fridges contained lowest common denominator tins of yellow pee, today Poland’s brewing sector buzzes with exciting new wave brews. The result? Some very happy fridges… All beers are available at: Piwonia. Piwa z Duszą (Al. KEN 50, www.piwazdusza.pl). Internet ordering and home delivery also available and highly recommended!

(Bottom shelf from left) ŻYTNIE by KONSTANCIN From Warsaw’s local brewery. With a thick heavy taste of malt, rye, fruits and spices it’s for the discerning palate. KOMES POTRÓJNY ZŁOTY by FORTUNA A dark golden tipple inspired by the pale malt beers of the 16th century. Alc. content of 9%: ouch!

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DRINKS CLUBS/HEALTHY DRINKS

not Steven Hawking. Ladies have it much easier in this department: skirts, dresses, small bags and high heels. The better you look, the better your chances are – that’s how it works. Put the cute girls up front, and you should have no problem getting in most clubs.

DIVIDE AND CONQUER

Over at one of my favorite hotspots, DeLite, I waked right by a group of six guys last weekend and went straight to the front. They were obviously from out of town, and thought Warsaw would be a cakewalk to get into clubs. Think again. Don’t come with big groups of guys and no girls. Break up your group, try to meet some girls earlier at other spots and bring them with you to up your chances. Clubs strive for a ratio of 2:1 in the ladies favor, so don’t kill your chances by showing up with a stag party (all dressed like Spiderman). I can’t emphasize enough the part about bringing hot chicks with you; they triple your chances of getting in, and your fun.

ARRIVE EARLY

Crossing the Velvet Rope Getting into a hot club is harder than getting past St. Peter at the pearly gates. Fortunately, we know how to get in with the VIP’s instead of standing outside with the chumps... BY THE MAYOR PROPER NIGHTCLUB ATTIRE

My cousin Danny was over here and we were intending to meet on Foksal (Warsaw’s premier Summer party street). My plan was to have dinner at Theatro and then hit up Sketch and Foksal XVIII. He showed up wearing khaki pants, white socks and tennis sneakers. So much for that idea. To add insult to injury, he was wearing a fanny pack. He looked like Fat Jesus from The Hangover. “You actually gonna’ wear that, or you guys just f***ing with me?” After scolding him for his attire, I made him go back to his hotel and change into appropriate weekend clobber. The clubs want to attract hot girls, so your style of dress should match: skinny jeans, sport jacket and trendy shoes always work. Leave the Chelsea top at home, no shorts, and God forbid, no fanny packs! Channel your inner James Bond,

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Most of the best clubs don’t fill up until after midnight. If you want to increase your chance of getting in, arrive early, before the line starts. The clubs are open and they are looking for business. Sometimes you can go in, pay the cover and then get a stamp on the way out. It will make it easier getting back in later.

GET ON THE GUEST LIST

Most clubs are on Facebook now, so give them a call, or stop by earlier to get your mates on the guest list. It always helps if you have been to a club before, so try going to the club on an off-night and get to know some of the face control. Enklawa is known for their huge lines on Wednesday and weekend nights. Most times you can just wait the queue, pay your cover and be granted access.

WHO TO APPROACH

There are plenty of people standing around the door. The big gorillas are there to handle any problems, but usually don’t have decision-making authority. Look for the smartly dressed young man or women, usually holding a clipboard or some sort of list. Select one person from your group to try and talk your way in. Don’t bombard him/her with questions, drop names or tell him The Mayor sent you. That is frowned upon. Just Be Cool.

BE RESPECTFUL

“It’s amazing how many people immediately start complaining and then that escalates into name calling or worse,” says one prominent doorman on Mazowiecka. He adds that he’s been cursed at, spat on, and even banged in the face for refusing entry (like some people think punching staff will get them past the velvet rope…). If they say no, just say ok, thanks, maybe next time, and walk away. At the end of the day, remember some clubs are just meant to be exclusive: if everyone was allowed in, then no-one would go there in the first place.


Smoothie Operators

Warsaw’s showing its fruity side this summer, with more and more venues choosing to get seriously creative with their counter top blender.

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PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK

arsaw’s drinking choices are expanding, and they’re also getting healthier. Where once a drink loaded with bananas, umbrellas and other jungle extras would also incorporate a generous slug of vodka, nowadays the vodka’s been forgotten. Say it quietly, but it appears the Polish capital has embraced the smoothie/raw juice bug. Yet while Warsaw has enthusiastically latched onto the global smoothie phenomena, it’s not entirely new here. Take Café 6/12, for instance, a place that’s been in business since the dark, distant days when Żurawia was an unlit alley of rent boys and weirdoes. Their choice of over 60 fruit based cocktails remains peerless, with drinks divided by the use they serve: breakfast, diet, cleansing, digestion, hangover, etc. The steep prices are offset somewhat by the knowledge you find yourself gargling down pure quality: goji berries, ginger, acai, figs, spinach, spirulina all appear in the many combinations. Across town, decrepit looking Hala Koszyki have made waves as the market of choice for Warsaw’s foodies. Settled in the back of a sunny yard / ruin, find a raw juice stall selling a limited – but equally recommended – choice of drinks that concoct energizing blends out of strawberries, oranges, etc., not to mention the latest Kermit-colored health drinks that have become almost must-have accessories of any neighborhood stroll. But for all that, you expect juice bars to flourish in a place like Koszyki. It’s success is not a surprise. What is, is the continued success of hole-in-the-wall joints that are aimed at the masses: places like Ozzie and Skok na Sok. And with more and more cafes catching on to the craze, this looks like the healthiest fad Warsaw’s ever had.

Café 6/12 ul. Zurawia 6/12 Koszyki ul. Koszykowa 63 Ozzie ul. Chmielna 4 Sok Na Skok many locations including Nowy Świat 31

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DRINKS & FOOD NIGHT & DAY

The Night Before

No matter what your wingman may advise, eating is not cheating. In fact, it constitutes a critical part of your Bear Grylls survival. BY ALEX WEBBER

SHOT BARS There’s a zillion to pick from, and all specialize in serving basic bites that line the stomach. There is an exception though, and that’s Afera na Szpitalnej (Szpitalna 3). Food is treated as more than a means here, and that’s evidenced by the young owner’s mum – she’s the one making the food, and her bigos go beyond the gut-wobbling staples you’ll experience elsewhere. FOOD TRUCKS The food truck craze remains in its infancy in Poland, even so, find a couple of heroes hawking their wares when the sun is past the yardarm. First off, there’s burgers and quesadillas to be had from the Soul Food Bus: keep in touch with their latest movements on Facebook. Do the same with

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the Roots Food Truck, a place of grilled cheese sandwiches and hot dogs. Our fave though is Mexican-themed Jakie Taco, a mobile unit usually spotted at Pomost 511 (by the Sapper monument in Powiśle). STANDING ROOM ONLY It’s all about swaying lines and giant cones of chips in Fabryka Frytek (Złota 3) and Friterie (Hoża 42). The Belgian fries in both are magic. For a more authentically Polish experience, Zapiexy Luxusowe (Widok 19) operate till half three on weekends. If you’re not familiar with the fodder, expect a halved baguette topped with cheesy gunk, mushrooms and oodles of ketchup. The results look like a Red Cross tent at the Siege of Stalingrad. SIT DOWN… … if you can. Seats aren’t guaranteed, but the rewards are potentially high at Brooklyn (Nowy Świat 36), a place that keeps their doors open till 5 on weekends. Some claim their burgers as the best around, and they’re certainly superior to the ones found at Bobby (Żurawia 32/34, open till 5 on weekends). For Italian, Mamma Mia Never Closed (Świętokrzyska 32) is a staunch favorite of the Italian builders honored with building the second metro. As for opening hours, the clue is in their name. MOMU.Gastrobar (Wierzbowa 11, open till 2), are a bit more innovative with their menu (and name), serving up tapas portioned snack pots and jalapeno hot dogs.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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arsaw’s nightlife might be in boom, but in military terms, these gains and advances have compromised its supply lines: late night eats remain pretty scant. There are of course the ubiquitous kebab shacks, but I’ve got one golden rule: avoid at all costs. In the true spirit of Warsaw logic, the best of the bunch close well before needed, leaving the last chance saloons scrapping for your custom. Rumors of toxic meat and rogue practices abound, and while such hearsay is quite probably urban myth, I’m not taking the chance: I love cats, just not in my kebab. So people, where does that leave us?


The Morning After

Woken up looking like a bruised badger? You didn’t read the facing page then, did you. Fortunately, naughty people, help is at hand…

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arsaw loves the morning – it’s when the city is the busiest: sirens shriek, dogs yap, and that’s all before the neighbor opens his tool kit and embarks on remont. This is not a city constructed with hangovers in mind. But there are ways to circumvent that angry animal living inside your lobotomy.

BREAKFAST This one sounds simple, right? Uh-uh. Just because Warsaw rises at the crack of dawn, it doesn’t mean it eats. Of course, it’s better than the old days when the city seemingly operated a blanket ban on breakfast, but only in the way flu is better than mumps. Even so, the number of cafes opening for breakfast has grown, and we’re happy to endorse the health-minded choices at Śniadaniwonia (Dąbrowskiego 38). If you don’t mind arriving in for work late, then even better awaits at Flaming & Co. Sit in the shade with scrambled eggs and muffins and the clouds will slowly clear. Opening at 9 a.m., Aioli (Świętokrzyska 18) have a decent offer of lightish bites such as baguette and eggs or their breakfast pizza. That said, there are times when the body demands soakage, fat, grease and ketchup. Give the cholesterol a fright by ordering a full Irish breakfast at the Tortilla Factory (Wilcza 46, now open from 8), or at Christian's BakerHouse (ul. Kasiążęca 6, open from 9). BRUNCH Sunday is rightfully regarded as a day of rest in this country,

and what better place to rest than in a restaurant? The concept of Sunday brunch is big news in Warsaw, with a stack of upscale eateries charging a flat fee (usually in the zł. 150 area) for a buffet banquet and unlimited booze. The bad news is that most of the key players (the five star giants), discontinue such service in the height of summer. But it’s not all bad news. Both Blue Cactus (Zajączkowska 11) and Boathouse (Wał Miedzeszyński 389A) feature gorgeous green backdrops for ‘sunglasses Sunday’. HAIR OF THE DOG Doctors rightfully reflect on the act of drinking your way out of danger as the epitome of stupidity. A dwindling core of ex-pats, however, consider it a chivalrous route to follow. But while excellent Bloody Mary’s do now exist in Warsaw, the cocktail bars that serve them are unlikely to be open when you need them the most. That’s no good if you’ve woken up with a head that suggests you lost your spin on the Russian Roulette. In that case, the early morning hardcore can do a lot worse than hanging on for the 9 a.m. opening of Cuda Na Kiju (Nowy Świat 6/12) – beer only, but it’ll do the trick. DETOX Wiser than topping your alcohol levels up, head for an invigorating detox drink to shake all that badness out. Both Café 6/12 (Żurawia 6/12) and Koszyki (Koszykowa 63) suit that purpose and do so well. facebook.com/warsawinsider

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DRINKS TALL TALES

The Guvnors

This issue, the Insider hobnobs with four ex-pat bar owners to get the scoop on their tall tales and true stories. BY ALEX WEBBER RAY of Rain by India Curry

When the Bristol first reopened 21 years back I came in as No. 2 chef after Kurt Scheller. In those times you’d get companies ringing in the morning asking for a custommade menu for that night. Kurt was away one day, and I was swamped; marketing came in demanding one of these menus. I’m reeling it off to the woman and she’s stopping me all the time asking me to spell out the items. We got to mains, and I figured roast rack of lamb in a cream sauce would fit the bill. “What is cream,” she asked. It’s like spunk, I replied. “How do I spell it?” So I told her: s-p-u-nk. That’s how a major pharmaceutical firm ended up with roast rack of lamb in a spunk sauce on their menu. I got an absolute rollicking for that. They were great days though. I remember walking into a bar and the woman serving said Dzien Dobry. I didn’t know Polish back then and was confused. “No, gin and tonic please,” I answered.

NIALL of Warsaw Tortilla Factory

I had a barman who thought he was the real dealand could speak English blindfolded. We’d just introduced Texan burgers to our menu, so he goes up to some Americans and asks what they’d like to order. “Texan please, medium rare.” Ten minutes later he returns and announces, “Your taxi is here.” I’ve heard some right stories as well. One bloke reckons he was kidnapped while trekking in Borneo and, bizarrely, the tribal chief who was holding him captive gifted him the ‘use’ of his daughter. He turned her down which drove the chief mad – the guy had to escape through the jungle or else he’d have ended up in a cooking pot. Another time, bloke says he’s waiting in line at the bank when a bank robber burst in. He kicked the pistol out of his hand, it looped through the air and he caught it in one swift motion: “Who’s robbing who now,” he quipped.

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GRAHAM of Legends

When I was in Saudi Arabia I came into contact with lads in the RAF, South African, American and Australian Air Forces. An Ozzie engineer, Craig, was always going on about how he should have been a fighter pilot but was robbed of the opportunity by a senior officer. Apparently, Craig was going through Flying School but encountered a big problem on a solo flight. Coming into land he informed the tower that the crosswind was too severe and asked if he could land at a neighboring airfield. He was told: 'No! Proceed with the landing'. Craig protested but was overruled by his senior officer. He attempted the landing but the crosswind did prove too severe. Consequently, the training aircraft flipped over. Craig staggered away from a mangled fuselage with both wings torn off and lucky to be alive. Our lads were not having any of this so started doing a bit of digging around and discovered that Craig was indeed a trainee pilot in Flying School, and that this was all true. However, it was in a bloody simulator. What a whopper!

KEVIN of Haka

We invited a major rugby star – a real great man – over one time to be guest at a tournament we had. First night in the pub and he’s had a few drinks so I put him a taxi and tell the cabbie where to go. Next day and he’s due to make a speech at a dinner but we haven’t heard anything from him. Big drama. I went to the hotel, got management to open his room up and he’s there – passed out in his tuxedo. We eventually got him to the Boathouse and the speech went ok. I hailed a cab back, opened the door, and it’s only the same taxi driver who took our man back that first night. “Noooo,” he starts shouting, “you’re friends with that gorilla.” No idea what happened, but it must have been messy…


Sips For the Summer

In spite of seismic trends, Warsaw’s not all pubs and piwo; a multitude of bars offer alternatives – but which get it right?

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he devil, they say, is in the detail and that’s never truer than in the liquor trade. Warsaw is now blotched with cosmopolitan bars with London styling, each and every one well-stocked and seemingly well thought. But if only it were that simple. All the surface extras and intricate offers count for nothing if the execution is incorrect. Put simply, it’s not good enough having the drinks if you don’t have the people who know how to pour them / mix them / serve them. And this year, we’ve seen it all: Pimms made with 7UP, Bloody Mary bez Worcester Sauce and Dirty Martini with a slick of olive oil (yuck!). So this summer, side step the chancers and look for the best… ALL ROUNDER

PAPARAZZI Mazowiecka 12

COCKTAILS

RAIN BY INDIA CURRY Żurawia 22

CHAMPAGNE

CHAMPAGNE BAR BY FLAMING & CO. Mokotowska 43

HOTEL BAR

PANORAMA Marriott (Jerozolimskie 65/79)

NEWBIE

COCKTAIL BAR MAX Krucza 16/22 PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY SHUTTERSTOCK, OPPOSITE PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA

MOLECULAR

PIES CZY SUKA Szpitalna 8

WHISKY

SYRENI ŚPIEW Szara 10A

VODKA

CZYSTAOJCZYCSTA Ząbkowska 27/31

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FOODIE NEWS A collaboration between two of Warsaw’s best known restaurant blogs (restaurantica.pl and froblog.pl), Warsaw Foodie has emerged as the No. 1 site for local food related stories. Featuring all the latest from the foodie frontline, the bilingual Warsaw Foodie promises the hottest news on what’s trending on the restaurant radar. For more info, check: www.warsawfoodie.pl/en

TALK OF THE TOWN

Zapiekanki!

Launched by the owners of Aioli, MOMU.gastrobar (ul. Wierzbowa 11) introduce tapas-style portions of seafood, hot dogs and several more dishes besides. Prepared by Australian chef Michael Gay, order four or six options from a choice of ten. Lengthy opening hours are the big boon here, with MOMU operating till 2 a.m.

Market News

Burgers & More

Warsaw’s fixation with food markets has grows with the opening of Targ Śniadaniowy – set in Żoliborz in the stretch of parkland on al. Wojska Polskiego, this open-air market touts fantastic cheese and meat, as well as a special picnic area where you can eat the products purchased. A playground for children is also planned and should be in place by the time you read this.

Warsaw’s burger trend gets a new twist thanks to Bydło I Powidło (ul. Kolejowa 47). Set inside a good looking glass box, the offer extends beyond just burgers and caters for lovers of Argentinean beef – pick from rib-eye, New York, tenderloin and T-bone steaks. Also on offer are New York-style bagels and sandwiches. With summer on song use their garden to your advantage.

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WARSAW INSIDER | JULY 2013

Laughs

The Chłodna comedy club have a new address following the closure of their birthplace on Chłodna 25. Now operating in Ukryte Miasto on Noakowskiego 16, swing by for cabarets, shows, stand-up and the occasional burlesque performance.

On the Move

Keep an eye out for the ‘bike café’ – a mobile espresso machine on wheels! The coffee on offer is organic and of Spanish origin - for their latest GPS check: facebook.com/IlikeBikeCafe

TALK OF THE TOWN PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA, ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF WARSAW FOODIE

Late Night

Causing a storm around town are Zapiexy Luxusowe (ul. Widok 19), a bar dedicated to the Polish phenomena of zapiekanki. Here, find them topped with sausage, Greek olives and feta cheese, bacon and sheep’s cheese and much more besides.


Reviews: Thai Thai 31 / TASTE Wilanów 52 / Plus:

* 15 updates

RESTAURANTS

AFRICAN 31 / AMERICAN & TEX-MEX 31 / ASIAN 34 / BALKAN & RUSSIAN 37 / BRITISH 37 / BURGERS 44 / CHEAP EATS 37 / COOKING SCHOOLS 58 / FOOD SHOPS 57 / FRENCH 38 / GERMAN 38 /GREEK 39 / INDIAN 39 / INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 40 / ITALIAN 46 / JAPANESE & SUSHI 48 / JEWISH 49 / LATIN 49 / MIDDLE EASTERN 53 / POLISH 54 / SCANDINAVIAN 56 / WHOLE FOODS 58

KEY

Insider’s Pick

$ zł. 30 (per main)

BOW 2012 Winner........... Breakfast menu ............. Business meetings.......... $$$ over zł. 55 Child friendly................... Insider writers do Delivery............................. not accept any Free wifi.............................. form of payment in Map location pg. 86 ...... (A1) return for favorable Romantic.......................... reviews. Vegetarian friendly........... $$ zł. 30-55

AFRICAN Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057. Open 10:00-23:00. Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $

Thai Thai Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283. Open 12:00-23:00.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX WEBBER

hai food is experiencing something of a resurgence – there’s been the successful rebranding of the Sheraton’s Eastern venture, the rise of Natara, and the continued success of Suparom; that’s not to mention a procession of newbies of varying pedigree. But the last couple of years have seen some notable failures, as well – Lemongrass, a voluminous space that was rarely half-full. Its demise was lamented, but not unexpected: empty seats do not pay the bills. Fortunately, their former chef is very much alive and kicking. Having spent the last couple of years bossing the kitchen of Thai Thai in Sopot, Sanad Changpuen returns to Warsaw to oversee Thai Thai’s expansion to the Polish capital. Not surprisingly, his return has been met with considerable fanfare. And boy, has he been provided with a space in which to flourish. It’s beautiful, a sensory delight in fact. Gold vaulted ceilings lend a muted glow to a largely black-on-black space; from the walls, serene looking Buddha’s peer on diners down below. At once, the soothing interiors ease guests into a state of inner peace. The food is as you’d expect: excellent. For starters, and to the approval of the waitress, I chose Moo Dad Diow: deep fried sundried pork neck with sesame and a snappy sauce on the side. On the downside, I was still finishing off the crunchy carrots when the waitress swooped on the table and made off with the plate. Not so fast, sweetheart! For mains, the red curry duck was a massive hit: a huge portion of bird, skin nicely crisp, sitting in a deliciously soupy combination of tastes. The only disappointment? This was not the bardzo ostre experience the menu had warned. Having put away half a duck I wasn’t really in the mood for dessert, but knew I’d regret it if passed on the chance. So it was I ended up with sticky mango and rice. Again, high marks go to Chef Sanad and his team of little helpers. There is a lot to like about TT, and it could yet oust Natara as my Thai of the town. With a couple of tweaks (I see automatic service charges as obnoxious), that’s pretty much a cert. (AW)

La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. With dishes like baked cow back and gizzard on the menu the authenticity can’t be questioned, though the tastes certainly can. Maybe our tastes aren’t adventurous enough, but the goat stew felt like one big mistake. But judging by the regular custom, not everyone shares our view. $$

AMERICAN & TEX-MEX Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$ Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00. Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has the pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that

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RESTAURANTS is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. Head to Jeff’s for megasize portions of American classics of the burger-ribs variety. Find their twin branch in Galeria Mokotów, along with an identical roadhouse design of blinking neon. $ Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, www.sioux.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef. Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. Now favoring a concrete, industrial look, SPE have lost the Sky Sports and rousing rock acts that once made them such a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Nonetheless the Tex Mex renditions remain both reliable and good, though now they’re enjoyed more by hotel guests than repeat visit ex-pats. $$

Spoco Loco ul. Sarmacka 10, tel. 887 447 447, www.spocoloco.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. The food won’t amaze, but the salsas surely will. Graded from 1-7, the No. 7 comes with a health warning! Hotheads should check their facebook for news on chili-eating events. $ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, but the burgers are always on-point inside this classic piece of stars & stripes vulgarity. $$ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Hefty portions, freshly made tortillas and salsas that will rattle your brain are the core principles here. But don’t think of WTF as a mere restaurant. This ex-pat haven has it all, from live sports, bands and a party atmosphere that drags long into the night. $$

ASIAN Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120. Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $

A Magnificent Garden, healthy food, a family atmosphere and the best lunches in Saska Kępa!

Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. ul. Twarda 42 (off Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:0022:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00. A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, the exhaustive menu combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes to an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, www.chinagarden.pl. Open daily 12:0022:00. Allegedly the first Jiangsu cuisine restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes at the China Garden are indeed unique. On show here is everything from bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts, goose jaws and stewed bull’s penis with radish – I dare you. $$ Co To To Je ul. Nugat 7, tel. 882 188 302, www.cototoje. pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Signaling the latest twist in Warsaw’s diversification is this place – a restaurant specializing in bugs! Not for the squeamish, dishes here include silkworm skewers, mealworm larvae camembert, and crickets with duck and raspberry sauce. What could possibly go wrong? $$

Bistro Toscana ul. Zwycięzców 28 Warszawa tel.+ 48 (22) 672 99 67 www.bistrotoscana.pl

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Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem


filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ InAzia ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Hotel), tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Sat 17:00-23:00. The Sheraton has a rich history of serving some of Warsaw’s best Asian food, with chef Marcin Sasin creating a menu that draws on influences as diverse as Indonesian, Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese. Popular with Thai diplomats and hushed hotel guests, the experience is worth the quite considerable splurge. $$$ Natara (B3) Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 666 101 500. Open 10:00-22:00. With a few wilting orchids and some symbolic pics of Buddha this bi-level restaurant won’t be in the running for any style prizes. The food is spot-on though, and after a brief panic during which we considered ordering everything – it all sounds

so good – the Insider settled for duck in wine and a classic green curry. The results were outstanding: rich, velvety flavors and complex tastes. $$ Natara Old Town ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13. Open 11:00-23:00. Set inside the Old Town walls, the setting is magical – from the outside. Inside, it’s all dowdy brown and plastic plants. Service, if you can call it that, teases patience to the max, but the food is fantastic. Everything we’ve tried on the menu goes right, not least the fiery red curry duck. Highly recommended. $$ Papaya ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya. waw.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya have softened the interiors a little, giving the aesthetics a less rigid look. The menu is a considerable success and includes sushi, kobe beef and a much talked about Peking duck. Our advice, however, is to check out Poland’s only teppanyaki grill – thank us after. $$

Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, www.pekinduck.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude. The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750. Open 12:00-23:00. Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $ Silk & Spicy (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012. Open 12:00-last guest. If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar

Chef Martin presents steak & seafood Choose from our personal selection of fine wine The New Address for Wine Lovers & Epicureans! ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 hoza@mondovino.pl Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

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RESTAURANTS enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $

Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$

Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Small but perfectly formed interiors and a menu that’s widely hailed by Thai devotees. The green beef curry is outstanding. $$

Suparom Thaifood II ul. Wałbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www. suparomthaifood.pl. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge,

none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307. Mon-Fri 9:30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Why Thai ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www.whythai.

www.lecedre.pl ~ opposite to the ZOO ~ Al. Solidarności 61 . 22 670 11 66 lecedre@lecedre.pl

The Best Original Hommous in Town ~ opposite to the court ~ Al. Solidarności 84 . 22 61 88 999 lecedre84@lecedre.pl since 1997

NEW

Lebanese cuisine

AUTHENTIC GERMAN & BAVARIAN CUISINE ul. Mokotowska 69 00-530 Warszawa tel. 022 628 73 84 www.adlerrestauracja.pl

We also offer catering and organize special events From Mon-Fri: lunch 19PLN

Be our guest!

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pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:001:00. A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the levels one expects. $$ Yummy (D5) ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. The Insider’s favorite budget Asian eatery, even if the empty tables suggest dark forces at work in the kitchen. Modern and minimal, the lemon chicken is delicious and the pad thai is a sure bet. $

BALKAN & RUSSIAN Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, www.banjaluka.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Numerous meaty dishes from Serbia and Croatia are served inside a Banja Luka, a Warsaw stalart who’ve moved with the time and... moved. The new, central location is as pleasing as the last, with lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. Looking intimate and woodsy Babooshka serves up dollops of simple Russian food to a budget conscious crowd. The bacon and tomato scented solyanka soup is a thick broth best suited for Warsaw’s long, windy nights. $ Gemo ul. Minska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 22 468 1876, www.gemorestaurant.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. At last, a Georgian restaurant without gnarled furniture and peasant fabrics. Located inside Soho Factory, Gemo has severe, industrial style accented further by steel lights and exposed pipework. The menu is modestly priced, yet includes several dishes to return for: the szaszlyk, for one. $ Montenegro ul. Natolińska 3, tel. 885 787 887. Open 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. The two levels are covered in soothing whites, and the interiors suggest a makeover conducted with little budget but plenty of taste. Servings are immense, leaving diners no room to explore other courses, and while the cevapcici (handrolled mince) are decent, they’re no superior to anything you might get in a reputable

kebab store – but the reaction from Warsaw’s food blogs suggests we may have visited on a bad day. Beware: clanking construction work next door make earplugs a must. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, www.umadziara.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, but there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen. The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing compared to his signature goulash. Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $

BRITISH The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub.pl. Open 8:00-1:00. The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsummer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

CHEAP EATS Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Fabryka Frytek ul. Złota 3, www.fabrykafrytek.pl. Open Mon-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:002:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges

ul. Rozbrat 20 00-447 Warszawa tel: +48 (22) 628 02 95 www.rozbrat20.pl

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RESTAURANTS Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option. Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0000, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland. Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24hr pizza delivery options also available. Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl. Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers. Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sense, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory. Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl. Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts). Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus. Restaurants covered by this mob inc. players such as India Curry, Na Zielnej, Osteria, Papaya and Sakana.

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and whatever else you can make out of a potato served come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $ Friterie (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 794 158 813. Open Sun-Thu 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-2:00. Served in paper cones, the Belgian-style chips come with that inimitable double-fried crunch and a range of sauces that merit experimentation: try the ‘Andaluse’. $ Groole (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, www. groole.pl. Open 12:00-20:00. You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $ Meat Love ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, www.meatlove.pl. Open Mon-Thu 10:0022:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. An eco-minded sandwich stop, this intimate basement has a smart wooden look and friendly staff notable for their daring body art. The home-baked baguettes are the star, and come with a range of organic ingredients complimented with thick cuts of top quality animal. Roast beef, pulled pork and porchetta are just a few of your options. $ Mr Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 888 021 888. Lurking amid the side streets of Powiśle, the pancakes here are brilliant and come with a heap of toppings and funny faces traced into them with icing sugar. Who cares if the staff wander around like they’ve just smoked a bong – it’s great. $ Okienko ul. Polna 22, tel. 603 771 483. Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00. Food through a hatch with pride of place going to fantastic Belgian-style fries served with a comprehensive choice of sauces (top marks to the jalapeno). Large portions are zł. 10, and do just the job on post-pub munchies. $ Pan Ziemniak Al. Jana Pawła II 41A. Open Mon-Sat 11:0021:00. With a custom-made cast iron potato oven and a menu that changes daily it’s not hard to see the draw. There’s usually about 16 toppings chalked up on the board, and

these range from norm (tuna mayo) to the unexpected (chicken curry). $ Soul Food Bus Corner of Mazowiecka & Świętokrzyska. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-4:00. You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/bus. Their m.o is simple enough. Eleven types of burgers, and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later. Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for their latest GPS. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, www.chinskapierogarnia.pl. Open 10:00-21:00. Set in a ropey looking pavilion To Tu excels when it comes to dim sum. The kim chi soup is pretty special as well. $ Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134. Open 11:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-19:00. Authentic German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh bread. The currywurst is fabulous, and there’s also Belgian-style fries. $

FRENCH Chez Belier ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 22 11. Open 12:00-24:00. Designed by Maciej Zień – Poland’s undisputed King of Fashion – Chez Belier looks five star with its immaculate blend of black and white colors, crystal lights and orchids. The menu is a compact affair, and is perfect in every respect: from presentation to taste. Modern and international, the offer numbers a fabulous tuna steak served on a bed of mango salsa. $$$

*

L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www.larc.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. No-one complains, however. Pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. An excellent venue, and one whose catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów. $$

GERMAN


behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$

Adler ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, www.adlerrestauracja.pl. Open 10:00-23:30; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:30. Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

GREEK Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067. Open 12:00-23:00. Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look. Owned by the same team

Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, www.kregliccy. pl/santorini.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Looking dubious from the outside, Santorini has several surprises inside. Styled like a fisherman’s tavern, the lamb chops are in a class of their own, though leave room for the milfei dessert. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 628 0782. Open 8:00-last guest. The design looks great, even if it plagiarizes Charlotte a touch (white brickwork, blackboard, communal table), and it even has the same chattery buzz. So the surprise here is the food is Turkish, and not just any Turkish, but excellent Turkish! The lamb and beef in tomato sauce is already part of the Insider diet, and the moussaka not far behind. But forget the word diet when it comes to dessert – the cherry chocolate cake is outstanding, but a menace to the beltline. $

INDIAN Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777. Open 11:00-23:00. With wide space and slick finishes Bombaj Masala takes its inspiration from the gleaming district, not (like most its competitors) from Santa’s Grotto. The food polarizes opinion, though most agree the prices don’t reflect the quality, and spices won’t scorch. $$ Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774. It’s through happy little tears the Insider declares Curry House as the overall victor in the local curry wars. The eye-watering

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RESTAURANTS vindaloo stands apart as Warsaw’s most macho curry, and the others don’t disappoint either. With this quality on show, it’s easy to ignore the primary design, drawn out waiting times and lunar location. $ Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Wildly inconsistent in terms of food and service. At a recent convention of the New Warsaw Curry Club the jalfrezi went untouched and murgh hara masala didn’t fare better. Nonetheless, the madras was declared Warsaw’s best and the murgh makhanawala destroyed in minutes. Design-wise, the chic dark décor places it a cut above most of the competition. $$ Himalaya Momo (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 36. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 10:00-22:00. There’s only four tables here, so don’t linger. The size means several staples have been cut from the menu, among them naan bread – there’s no space for a tandoor over, you see. What kind of Indian restaurant forgets a tandoor oven? In this case, a very good one. What does appear on the Tibetan / Indian menu is usually delicious. $ India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www.indiacurry.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. In recent times inconsistencies have plagued what was a premier experience: but that stands to change! Closed for renovation, we’re

promised a new look venue that will marry top food with a loungey vibe. Watch this space. $$ Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily, unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is amongst the best in the city. $$ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Keen, supersize portions and an efficient home delivery service (indiaexperss. pl) have made this lot something of a bookmark. Not dissimilar from the curries you may have survived on as a student, Mandala are cheap, efficient and much more besides. $ Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $

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Rain by India Curry ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350. Ray

Bridgeford’s – the man who created Sense – has waved his magic wand and reinvent what was the ailing India Curry. It’s not the fresh contemporary interiors that have changed, but also the menu. Prices have been slashed, and modern ‘funky twist’ Asian dishes have been introduced amongst the Indian staples. This could yet emerge as one of best re-launches for quite some time.

INTERNATIONAL & FUSION

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4/Czwarte ul. Piaseczynska 71, tel. 22 100 3139, www.4czwarte.pl. Open daily 8:00-23:00. 4/ Czwarte sits smack in the middle of Warszawianka’s 29 tennis courts. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it can be rather motivating to eat and drink to the plop of the tennis balls. Chef Kinga Araucz brings a fresh eye to food in Warsaw, and her modern menu combines well with the pleasantly congenial atmosphere and sharp interior. $$

12 Stolików (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 519 151 504. Open 9:00-23:00. Affecting a boutique style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that promotes cooking as a form of theater. The menu is chalked on a board, and while alio olio was overcooked, the big guns came out for the steak: a very decent piece of meat. Enjoyable enough, though nothing particularly memorable. $$

“Casual fine dining in the heart of Warsaw” ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita.pl. For reservations: rezerwacja@nolita.pl Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00

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Akademia ul. Różana 2, tel. 22 828 99 11. Open 12:00-24:00. The most high profile launch of 2013, with whole sections of street blocked off to keep the beautiful people from being molested by the public. But while the prevailing attitude is snooty, chef Grzegorz Nowakowski has done an excellent job on an artfully simple menu that fits seamlessly with the white-on-white interiors. $$ A Nóż ul. Różana 30, tel. 608 386 388. Open 9:0023:00. ‘A Jack of all trades, master of none,’ you might think. You’d be wrong. Burgers, pastas, Asian-inspired salads, and pizzas are represented, and while some dishes require fine-tuning, the overall impression is positive. Paired with a cool, typically Warsaw interior (white, white, white), the owners have a real success story on their hands. $

Brasserie Warszawska ul. Górnośląska 24, www.brasseriewarszawska. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00.A posh looking bistro whose credentials are supported by crisp shirted staff, gleaming surfaces and zinc mirrors. The menu changes daily, and on the Insider’s visit included outstanding Fine de Claire oysters on a bed of fennel. The English influence of an owner who once managed The Grill at London’s Dorchester Hotel, shines through on Friday when dishes like fish & chips are served. $$$

Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-

Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel 523 749 160. Open 12:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-6:00; Sun 14:00-24:00. With white tiles, an artsy carpentered bar

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22:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of riverside parkland – perfect for lazy Sundays with family and friends. Freshly re-opened after a winter break, during which time Chef Luc has traveled the Mediterranean sourcing the best ingredients and snooping out new recipes. $$

and draftsman desk lamps hanging from the walls, Bufet certainly gets points for design. The Hungarian fish soup is delicious, while the chocolate soufflé is airy, gooey and all things nice. But choice diminishes quickly – get there early to order the ribs. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www. butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00. The most talked about restaurant of 2011 shows no sign of waning. Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach, and commonly considered the best in the city. In the evening, reservations remain recommended. $$

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By The Way Bottega Kulinarna ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. 22 692 7239, www.bytheway.com. pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Everything here looks fantastic – the pared down interiors with their concrete greys and houndstooth touches, and the food. Oh yes, the food. There’s about five

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RESTAURANTS mains to hover on, the highlight being the duck breast. The meringue dessert is heaven, as well. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373. Open 12:0023:00. Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct, five course set lunch menus from zł. 50. Modern designer dining BEST WAWA 2012 rarely gets better. $$$ “Restaurant for a Business Meeting” Winner, “Restaurant Design” Winner Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Appealing to the serious spender, the US Longhorn (a cool zł. 185) is utterly unforgettable. Try it with orange whiskey sauce. $$$ Duchnicka Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, duchnickawinebar.com. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. Filling the boots of outgoing

chef Joseph Seeletso is Michał Budnik, a rising star with a bright future ahead. The thrilling menu includes cappuccino soup, and a totally triumphant T-Bone. $$ Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www. flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00. A superb eatery seemingly styled by Ralph Lauren. Winning rave reviews across the board, find a strong international offering and even a small playground in the park that it views. $$ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com. Open 12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$

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Hoża by Mondovino ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275. Open 12:0022:00 (or last guest). Stepping inside, the place feels dark, which is a refreshingly unorthodox sensation in Warsaw – really, when was the last time you saw a new restaurant that wasn’t decorated in the same bright white colors and bleach wood fittings. Having a chef who runs his own meat shop is a blessing, with the meat here coming out absolute trumps. $$

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Jasna 24 ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447 24 41, www.jasna24.

pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. Slick, modern and loungey in look, Jasna 24 has a creative menu that include the use of deliciously unexpected combinations. Roll up on Wednesday’s if you prefer your dinner served with a slice of live music. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. That the head chef, Paweł Oszczyk, came within a whisker of pipping Wojciech Amaro in the Best Chef category of our 2012 awards says a lot. And he’s not the only star on the pay roll: there’s also Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier. Mixing ‘French techniques, Polish products and Italian influences’, Oszczyk’s menu is built for superlatives. The venison is magnificent, and on our visit came served by Poland’s most theatrical waiter – someone, give him a BEST WAWA 2012 “Hotel TV show. $$$ Restaurant” Winner Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest. Set with gingham tablecloths, antiques and launderette detritus, Magiel is as charming as they come. But don’t let the café part of the name fool you – the cooking here demands attention. Specializing in eco-minded slow food produce, the ever-rotating menu is fresh, natural and packed with taste. $$

ul. Senatorska 27 tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl

ORIGINAL CHINESE CUISINE

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Momu.Gastrobar ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 10001. Open 9:002:00. Tapas-style portions of experimentallooking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket. But while it looks good, the Insider found it all very hit and miss… we could be alone on this – we’ve heard good things since, suggesting we visited on an off day. $

beautiful back garden is closed off for winter. But you’d be a fool to do so. Unassuming it might be, but there’s something clearly very right with the kitchen. The diverse international menu has too many positives to count, though the Insider recommends the pork tenderloin: served with a blue cheese and balsamic sauce, it’s a plate licking meal. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple

of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, Frida Restaurant - but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Po Prostu Zachęta (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00. Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables nestled

Moonsfera ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4. Open 12:00-23:00. You’ll find fancy-looking Moonsfera at the top of the Olympic Center, and the panoramic views figure high on the draw. The international menu is an explosion of creativity, with dishes including duck breast served with ginger and carrot puree, caramelized pear and fig and cherry/thyme sauce. Nolita ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita. pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00. A swank center restaurant anchored on the skills of Jacek Grochowina – a young talent who honed his skills at the London Ritz. Looking chic and high end, we enjoyed Tournedos Rossini: a victorious dish comprised of dainty pink meat, black truffles, foie gras and pureed potatoes served in a cast iron pot. Heaven. And order the sorbet. Dusted with a secret cosmic ingredient, first taste gives an intense fizzy sensation that’s utterly unexpected. One of the top dining rooms in Poland. $$$ Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 621 1881. Open 10:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Are you inside a bookshop or a restaurant? The mind plays tricks in Opasły. But chef Agata Wojda puts any questions to rest, with outstanding dishes that use fresh, local ingredients – the tasting menu is a must, and proof of Wojda’s increasing rank amongst Warsaw’s best chefs. $$ Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. Looking like a business class waiting lounge, it’s easy to overlook Passe Partout – more so now the

RISTORANTE SAN LORENZO AL. JANA PAWŁA II 36 TEL. 22 652 1616 WWW.SANLORENZO.PL facebook.com/warsawinsider

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RESTAURANTS beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean. Porto Praga (F1) ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. Maturing from the murky concept of restobar, Porto Praga have entered a new stage of life: that of a fine dining establishment. The chef’s philosophy is to maintain the natural flavor of ingredients, and the slow food angle is emphasized by magnificent lamb from Połoniny region. PP are equally proud of their seafood, so visit on Thursday / Friday when their ‘fish market’ menu introduces the likes of monkfish, John Dory and strawberry grouper. $$

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$

its SAM. The cooling concrete interiors buzz throughout the day, with touches like communal tables well suited to the ascetic style. Owned by the same lot in charge of 6/12, there’s a similar commitment to good, healthy eating employed here. $$

Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www. restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:0023:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit. No longer the top dog for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$

Signature ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, www. signaturerestaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. With cutlery from Eternum, original Marilyn photos shot by Milton Greene, columns and reliefs from the days this was the Soviet Embassy and 1950s Oswald chairs, it sure looks the part. The menu is contemporary but never flamboyant, with our meal including tuna tataki for starter and a pink duck breast for main. Both were excellent, and exactly what one expects from Poland’s top hotel. $$

SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 600 806 084. Bistro, bakery, hangout. However you choose to label SAM, it’s the talk of the town. Noisy Charlotte won all the press last summer, this time round

Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec.

Burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. Now settled in newer, bigger digs, what had finished summer as Warsaw’s favorite burger has taken the foot off the gas. The offer has been increased but, so it seems, at the cost of the quality. Nonetheless, try the Muppet – served on wooden trays, it’s a messy affair loaded with salsa, jalapenos and BBQ sauce. $ Brooklyn Burgers & Wings ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 270 2144. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00. Warsaw’s love affair with burgers gets stronger with the opening of Brooklyn. With the best location of the lot, and a young American chef doing the biz in the kitchen, this is not just another copycat. Homemade sauces, wings, ribs, strips and beer (inc. Sam Adams!), make this so much more than just another burger joint. $ Burgerator (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B, tel. 533 626 242. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-20:00. Penetrate the office/residential complex that’s sprung up around Żaryna to find Burgerator, a cheerful burger bar with a pop art touch and burgers that reflect the slavish

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perfectionism of the owner. A great place, and if we’re to believe the rumors, the first of many Burgerator’s that will appear around town – good news for all. $ Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 74/80 (enter from Olkuska). Open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00. Hands down the sort of burger Thurman and Travolta would chow in Pulp Fiction. Decorative elements don’t go beyond tables and chairs (of which there aren’t many), and waiting times can drive you nuts – as can the tramps who stagger past to the nearby bottle bank. The burgers though are a different class. $

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Bydło i Powidło ul. Kolejowa 47. Open 13:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Set in a modern glass prism, here’s a place that’s realized you can’t get away with just serving burgers anymore (though here, they’re very good indeed). Unfortunately, the steak part of the menu just isn’t there yet. Lokal Bistro ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64. Open 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-1:00. Dentist colors and voluminous ceilings lend an austere but pleasant look to

this Polish-style burger bar. Sit outside at the woodchip tables (oww! watch for splinters…) to enjoy burgers that incorporate Polish Red Angus, Baltic cod and mountain cheese. Our tip: order a towering double burger with red onion marmalade and homemade ketchup. Delivered on a thick wooden board it’s completely delightful – if not a little messy. By the end of the meal the table will look like you’ve just given birth. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Fri 12:0020:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-19:00. Forget Year of the Dragon, 2012 was Year of the Burger – or more specifically, Year of the WarBurger. Edging the competition, this diminutive little cabin wins eulogies across the board for base-level prices, super friendly service and pimped up burgers that use gourmet ingredients. $ Queen Burger ul. Hoża 1. Much like Bydło i Powidło, the lads at Queen have cottoned that to survive the burger wars one must broaden the offer. Which is why British ex-pats are waiting to see how their fish & chips will turn out. Opening anytime soon – we’ll be the first ones there.


BROUGHT TO YOU BY: DAWNE SMAKI

A New Twist on a Traditional Style

Constituting a crucial part of Warsaw’s ‘Royal Route’, Nowy Świat just hasn’t had the restaurants such a street deserves – at least, not until now…

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or years, Nowy Świat has been synonymous with Poland’s progress: bold, brash and full of life. But while its café scene is famed across the nation, Nowy Świat’s restaurants are perhaps better known as charmless tourist traps aimed at one-time guests. Well, that was the case. Opened at the start of 2013, Dawne Smaki introduces top class dining to this scenic stretch of Warsaw. The interiors are woodsy and intimate, evoking both a sense of nostalgia and a sense of home. For private occasions, a VIP room downstairs features restored brickwork, and accommodates anything up to twenty diners. More sociable guests are afforded ample people watching opportunities on a shaded terrace that hugs Nowy Świat. However, it is round the back that Dawne Smaki’s greatest glory is revealed: a 360 sq/m garden bursting with greenery. An oasis of peace, the breathtaking garden is guaranteed to leave all who visit speechless. With such an amazing backdrop, you’d think the food would be an afterthought. This is not so. Created by Michał Bajerski, the menu is an updated interpretation of classic Polish cooking. Inspired by his grandmother’s recipes, the upcoming Bajerski has set about reinventing these national staples in 21st century fashion: “We wanted to modernize

To enter Dawne Smaki is to enter a secret world: the garden allows guests to escape day-to-day Warsaw, while a sophisticated menu of modernized Polish classics guarantees a memorable visit

Polish cuisine,” says the chef, “while the dishes are largely traditional, they’re cooked and presented using contemporary methods.” With an emphasis placed on fresh ingredients, high quality products and small scale suppliers, the results are as fantastic as one expects. Perfectly portioned, dishes like sturgeon with spinach, and deer steak with thyme sauce, have become the restaurant’s signature. Other classics are also presented with a fresh style: for instance, pierogi that utilize duck and marjoram, or spinach and mountain cheese. “We wanted a light modern menu,” says Bajerski, “we wanted to show people that Polish food isn’t always fat and heavy.” The young chef’s panache and passion is reflected in the works of art that arrive to the table: never before has the traditional food of Poland looked – and tasted – this good before. It’s long overdue, but at last Nowy Świat has the foodie anchor that it’s lacked for so long. Dawne Smaki ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20. www.dawnesmaki.pl Sun – Thurs 12:00-23:00; Fri – Sat 12:00-1:00

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RESTAURANTS waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a SwissPolish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $ Soul Kitchen ul. Noakowsiego 16, tel. 519 020 888, www.soulkitchen.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0022:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. While intended to look chic and high-design, the interiors come across as a little IKEA in the flesh. But who cares? Chef Andrzej Polań has masterminded a beautiful, modern menu whose highlights include baked goose with gooseberry sauce. The back garden really is a garden, complete with grass and tooting musical neighbors – check it out. $$

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Stółdzielnia ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67,

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www.stoldzielnia.pl. Open 13:00-22:00. A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with odd-shaped tables and stark, sterile colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. Wow. $$

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Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:0023:00. There is an inspiration here which causes guests to linger over their meal, explore it and wonder at it. Food isn’t the background; it is the centerpiece. While Robert Trzópek has left the kitchen, he’s been ably replaced by Rafał Hreczaniuk – his menu pitches modern techniques against traditional – primarily root – ingredients. It’s amazing. $$ Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachzska 1, tel. 400 1122, www.taste. pl. Open 11:30-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00.

It’s easy to witter about how good Taste is, and yes, it really is. Aided by a star studded launch, it’s been happy days for TW ever since. Elegantly simplistic with its black colors and open kitchen, the menu here incorporates sous-vide meats and fresh natural produce. But the biggest pull? A contemporary take on the traditional Sunday roast (guess which day you need to turn up to try that…). $$

ITALIAN Bacio ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, www.bacio.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Under new management the new look Bacio has been decluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top eats in town. $$


Bacio Angelo (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 22 622 4454, www.bacio. pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:00-last guest; Fri & Sat 11:00-last guest. With a charming folklore interior, the candlelight will lead you into a world of sweet romance. The delicate antipasti and Italian merlot will certainly ease you into good conversation. $$

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showman. In his hands, you’ll feel like a star. Then there’s Lorenzo, the chef out the back. Between the pair of them they’ve turned this tiny little venue into Warsaw’s most convincing Italian enterprise. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, tasteful interiors and brilliant food: what more do you need? $$

Bistro Toscana ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9967, www. bistrotoscana.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:30-22:00;SatSun 11:00-22:00. A classic neighborhood Italian with a friendly air and the standard rundown of items: spaghetti, penne, gnocchi etc. That all contributes to building a healthy set of repeat customers. $$

Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www. enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$

Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www.delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00. The reasons for Delizia’s success are twofold: Luca and Lorenzo. Luca’s the front man, a charismatic chap and natural

Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27. Open 13:00last guest. You’d never guess from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining. Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started

right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show. The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$ La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86. Open 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. On the right day you’ll find the ex-pat proprietors of Warsaw’s more refined Italian eateries using this for their pizza fix. It might not look like much, but its reputation speaks for itself. $ L’Olivo (B4) ul. Żelazna 59A, tel. 784 442 240. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:30; Sun 13:00-22:00. The menu is cheaper and less extravagant, but the level of passion is equal – from the makers of Delizia comes L’Olivo, an informal looking spot with fantastic pizzas using the same quality, import products and a range of other authentic choices. The affogato is not to be missed. $

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RESTAURANTS Mąka i Woda ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87. Open 17:00-22:00. Stop press! Here’s one more candidate for Warsaw’s best pizza. Made using Stefano Ferrara Napoli ovens, and top quality ingredients (Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Caputo flour, etc.), expect to be hearing a lot about MiW in the coming months. Great stuff, with a good line in homemade pastas and sides also featuring. $

The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$

Mamma Marietta (C10) ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071. Open 12:00-22:00. Famed in ex-pat circles, head chef Andrea (formerly of Da Aldo) has created a bright bijou eatery that’s openly regarded as one of the finest and most authentic Italian experiences in Poland. The seafood has a particularly stellar reputation, as does the smattering of Sicilian dishes. $$

Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$

Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3)

Mezzo Italian Steakhouse ul. Sienkiewicza 5 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 756 3343. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00. Tucked at the tip of Konstancin’s park, Mezzo’s wood-burning brick pizza oven constructed in the garden gets all the thumbs up. Also novel to the community is a chance to enjoy top-notch beef – using filet from Poland and T-bones from Irish Hereford cattle, Mezzo’s newly designed kitchen uses a lava grill to ensure excellence each time. $$ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00.

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Superiore ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. 506 404 059, www. superiorewinebar.pl. Mon-Sun 12:00-10:00. A hybrid wine shop, deli and restaurant, with an owner who prefers to think about the enjoyment of your dining experience rather than his cash till. The veal pasta is the bestselling dish here for very good reason. $$ Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side. The M.O

ul. Domaniewska 17/19 Mon-Sun: 12.00-21.00 phone: 22 847 16 63 mobile: 506 813 300

www.ousushi.pl

Ou Sushi is a magical place where the culinary tradition of the east meets the fantasy and modernity of the west. The secret to our success is our constant quest for perfection.

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is very much the same, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $ Venti-tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. The high class confines of the Hyatt are the home of Venti Tre, a contemporary restaurant with an open kitchen, and a Mediterranean inspired menu constructed using carefully sourced ingredients from local suppliers. The results are outstanding. $$$

JAPANESE & SUSHI Hana Sushi (A1) al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), www.hanasushi. pl. Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955, www.inaba.pl. Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00). Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. It's an old-timer, but it's still up there as a real contender. $$ Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu. Open 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$

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Ou Sushi ul. Domaniewska 17/19, tel. 22 847 16 63, www.ousushi.pl. Open 12:00-21:00. There can never be enough sushi in Warsaw, not least when it’s this good. The temaki rolls are outstanding. $$

Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. If there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, it was Sakana. Many claim it’s the best in the city, a


stand that’s hard to dispute. Practice nimble chopstick moves among other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi Marina-Mokotów ul. Warowna 1, tel. 493 0302. Open 12:0022:00. Since its heyday in the 00s sushi has been in decline in Warsaw – well, no-one told Marina-Mokotów, and it’s a good job as well. Completely creative in its offer, this isn’t just another Wa-wa sushi joint. Elaborate rolls are built with forensic precision using the freshest of ingredients. In a place like this, it’s easy to fall in love with sushi all over again. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle. Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$

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Tekeda ul. Freta 18, tel. 600 351 818, www. sushitekeda.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. In an area plagued by tourist rip-offs, Tekeda get it right with a good balance of sushi and wok dishes. The grilled maki is particularly pleasing. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

JEWISH Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes

aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them frequently at war with the people they serve. $ Rambam ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 243 2693, www.rambamrestaurant.pl. Open Sun-Fri 11:30-23:00. Kosher-certified, though by no means the exclusive domain of the Israeli coachloads who tour the district. A chic look with Middle Eastern accents is paired off with exotic dishes that include a lamb burger with red onion chutney and mint sauce. $$

LATIN Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 1020, www.aioli-cantine.com. Open 9:00-last guest. A jaunty Mediterranean space with hanging meats and long communal tables, Aioli has a decent offer of sandwiches, breakfasts, pastas and burgers. The mango-turkey burger is worth your consideration. $$

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Brought to you by: Opasły Tom

OPASŁY TOM on ul. Foksal

The best restaurant in Warsaw according to the Gastronauci ranking service!

T

he innovative creation of sibling restaurateurs Agnieszka and Marcin Kręglicki, the intimate interior harks to the day this was a cult café used by the intellectual elite of Warsaw. The kitchen, however, is the domain of Agata Wojda, whose magnificent menu utilizes fresh produce from farmers’ markets, and follows the principles of slow food dining. Whether you opt for standard dishes, or Agata’s tasting menu, our sommelier has expertly picked wines that match

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each dish. Originally trained as a musicologist, Agata Wojda perfected her art in some of the best restaurants in France and Spain. Long associated with the Kręglicki family, her style is defined by her passion and professionalism. Recommended by the Michelin Guide, and recognized by the Slowfood organization, Agata is also a frequent and familiar name in both newspaper columns and television programs.


Her summer menu is dedicated to the fresh, light flavors associated with the holidays. We have a personal relationship with our suppliers, and through them we source ingredients such as courgettes, cauliflower and tomatoes, not to mention Polish herbs that are often overlooked: summer savory, thyme and lovage. We’re also particularly proud of our regional Polish cheeses, the tastes of which have amazed our guests for a number of years. Of course, we are also continuously discovering new tastes to incorporate into our menu. Throughout summer expect new

takes on refreshing soups such as chłodnik served using pickled cucumbers and yogurt from small organic farms, or our signature chałwowym mousse with the very freshest raspberries. OPASŁY TOM ul. Foksal 17 opasły@kregliccy.pl www.kregliccy.pl tel. 22 621 18 81

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RESTAURANTS

Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5782. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-18:00. Set to the flank of a glinting office building, Casa Pablo touts an interesting design composed

of tartan colors, upturned wine crates and a mirror that we’re told is over a century old. But if you think that’s interesting, then take a look at the menu. Modeled round the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, dishes include scallop carpaccio with foie gras, and a duck breast burger with Mahon cheese, raspberry ketchup and truffle sauce. Servings are small and precise, but even so, we like what we see. $$

 

Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. A real veteran, the Blue Cactus has taken some knocks recently: our last visit was a calamity. But aware of the decline top brass have moved fast to put out the fire. Word on the street reckons a new Californian chef has put it back firmly on track – we’ll be back anytime soon. $$

Carmona ul. K. Chodkiewicza 3, tel. 22 414 19 19, www.carmona.pl. Open 11:00-22:00. Set in an increasingly happening section of new money Mokotów, find the daily tapas chalked up on a blackboard inside a modern interior featuring top-to-bottom windows and industrial

touches hanging overhead. They’ve got the tapas down to a tee. $$ Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, www.dostacos.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00. Adorned with Aztec murals and cartoonish finishes, cheerful Dos Tacos belies its office block location. With an increasing amount of American custom, some have even gone as far as to call it Warsaw’s best Mexican. Either way, the burritos are grand and the sauces peerless: beginners should order the salsa set, a great mix that ranges from tasty to volcanic. $ El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is

Insider Pick Taste Wilanow ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 400 1122, www.taste.pl, Open daily 11:30-22:30

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uite by accident on a gloomy spring day, the Luncheonettes stumbled upon a sleek restaurant in the center of Nowy Wilanów. Opened only a few days and still wearing its price tags, we left impressed. Good food, good prices and promising service. Our second visit was on a more recent gloomy day in summer, and this time we left even happier. Maybe it was the chocolate fondant dessert with homemade vanilla – thyme ice cream, or the creme brulee.

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Whichever, it must be said that there is something very basic, very honest, about the enhancement of well-being through cuisine. To leave a restaurant fortified is to be expected; to leave delighted is the mark of quality. Owners Paweł Matusik and Paweł Paciorek have been friends for a decade. The former studied and interned at Swiss hotel management schools; the latter is a fourth generation attorney. This first venture is located at the corner of Kazachska and Szreniawa in Warsaw’s highest income neighborhood. They have an attractive natural terrace and a clever L-shaped interior. To be in on the action, sit on the long bar side and enjoy the clear view onto a gleaming white ceramic kitchen with its six or so employees bustling about. For more intimacy, sit around the corner. It took eight months and four architects to get this pleasantly divided ambiance. Dominik Moskalenko, the executive chef who cut his teeth on Amber Room and Na Zielnej, has been a central part of the creation from the beginning. The fruits of his labor, in a kitchen built to his design specifications, are eye-pleasing and mouth-watering. Fish sits prominently on his menu and accounts for an astonishing 60% of their sales. Yes, we can verify the fish is phenomenal. Our daily luncheon specials included three small (15 cm), sautéed, whole sea fish with a light mixed salad, preceded by a pureed pickle soup. Also on offer was a very tender pork tenderloin, with deep brown sauce and al dente-style savory barley. The crunch was nice and the combination hearty. Unique for Warsaw, tips left by the patrons are divvied up amongst kitchen and wait staff. Happy employees, happy eating – could that be the secret to this success? Regardless, don’t wait for a gloomy day to visit; take advantage of that sunny terrace.

PHOTOGRAPH BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

Food, libation, atmosphere and joviality. We all deserve and need to nourish the body as well as the soul – and The Luncheonettes are here to help you do just that.


consistently inconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$ The Mexican (D1) ul. Podwale 29, tel. 22 635 3232, www.mexican.pl. With its babbling fountain and courtyard location The Mexican looks great. It’s a shame the same enthusiasm can’t be applied to the food. No matter what your order, anticipate mysterious gloop and lots of mashed cabbage. $$ Ole Tapas ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, www.ole-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$ Pico Cuadro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 81, tel. 22 826 1524, www.picocuadro.pl. Open 10:00-23:00.

When it comes to their excellent beef manager Francisco gives credit to both the Argentinean origin of his selections and the knowledgeable hand of his chef who spent twelve years cooking in Spain. But best is dessert – a divine chocolate mousse torte on a delicate cookie crust made in house. Not too sweet, not too thick, just right! Although not as free with foreign flavors or combinations as it could be, it remains one to watch. $$

MIDDLE EASTERN Le Cedre (F1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE;

of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, www.lecedre.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Legendary Le Cedre have a new venture, and this one looks even better than the original over the river. Deep plum colors work well inside, and we recommend turning up with a group of friends and splitting the Baalbak (six cold starters) or Byblos (six hot starters) menu. Aside from a candid A-Z of this cuisine, it’s a great opportunity to cover the tables with fancy little plates before causing a right mess amongst you as you share and share alike. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. Just what you didn’t expect – a restaurant specializing in the food of Yemen. Featuring lots of spicy meat dishes, and a few Indian-style offerings as well, here’s a fantastic spot that arouses curiosity and taste buds alike. The

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RESTAURANTS interiors are snug and pleasant, and not short on surprises – e.g. a concrete telephone pole adorned with potted plants. $$

POLISH Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E5)

Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.kprb.pl/amber. Open Mon-Fri 12:0022:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00. The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation

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they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www.aterlieramaro.pl. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30. The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier has no rival – this is the best restaurant in the country, bar none. Find a tasting menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques (e.g. blasts of nitrogen), with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre molecular interludes (aloe leaves, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. BEST Reservations mandatory. $$$ WAWA 2012 “Contemporary Polish” Winner, New Restaurant” Winner, “Best Chef” Winner Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, www.bazyliszek.waw.pl. Open 11:00-24:00. Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though

it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $ Belvedere Restaurant (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold and black interiors. $$$ Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www.bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 460 for four). As can be said of all


places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics. $

The new place on the map of Warsaw The new place on the map of Warsaw

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Dawne Smaki ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, www. dawnesmaki.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00. At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. The deer steak is highly recommended. $$

Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight. The seminal Polish village experience is recreated in Folk Gospoda, a simple, rustic restaurant who put a stress on using locally sourced produce and homemade condiments like bread and preserves. Clad in wood and farmyard debris, the menu is a hefty collection of pierogi, game and macho meaty fare. Look no further if you want authentic, big hearted food the way it’s served up in the mountains and down in the villages. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Recently voted as one of the 25 most

Bistro Piękna ul. Piękna 20 00-549 Warszawa Tel. +48 22 627 41 51 piekna@jazzone.pl www.jazzone.pl

Bistro Piękna ul. Piękna 20 00-549 Warszawa Tel. +48 22 627 41 51 piekna@jazzone.pl, www.jazzone.pl

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RESTAURANTS interesting restaurants in the world! And we’re not surprised – bathed in red banners and propaganda paintings, the Red Hog is your one stop shop for some socialist socializing: while Marx and Co. never actually ate here (as their menu claims), lads like Bruce Willis and Lennox Lewis have. The menu is comically split between dishes for the proletariat and for dignitaries, and is an experience in itself. $$ Kameralna ul. Foksal 11, tel. 887 878 731. Open 12:0024:00. You want to like Kameralna, and the Insider certainly does – as a brewery. As a restaurant, however, it simply doesn’t work. Stodgy food, small portions, plain tastes: but what do you expect from a restaurant inspired by 50s / 60s commie-era Poland. Kuchnia Funkcjonalna ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), tel. 512 893 898. Open 11:00-23:00. Snuck inside one of Saska’s definitive modernist buildings, the opening of Kuchnia has made slow food accessible to all wallets. Venison from the Bieszczady Mountains, dairy products from Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics; the frequently changing menu reflects the commitment to nature. The ascetic design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, spring glow. $$ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314,

www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Touting a refined, baronial setting, Rożana has starchy white linen, floral pieces and flickering candles, giving off plenty of classic charm in the best possible taste. With indulgent mains such as farmhouse duck with apple and cranberry, or saddle of venison with homemade pickle, this is a Polish dining extravaganza served BEST WAWA from the top table. $$ 2012 “Polish with Style” Winner U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians. Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$

We guarantee a truly authentic experience, serving home-grown traditional dishes with a genuine Italian feel...

-Luca & Lorenzo

ul. Żelazna 59, Warsaw info@lolivo.pl, tel. 784 614 672 Mon-Sat noon to 10 p.m.; Sun 1 p.m. to 9 p.m. (or last guest)

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U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. You’re in the thick of the action here, with dining conducted in the former kitchen of the historic Hotel Europejski – once the most luxurious hotel in the Tsarist Empire. The atmosphere is one of orchestrated chaos, and the chefs love a bit of showmanship: expect Ramsay-style tantrums sometimes inches from your face. The steak tartar is rated across town, though standards have slipped considerably BEST WAWA 2012 in recent times. $$ “Welcome to Poland” Winner U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www.uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. Named after fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appear to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, ul. Podwale 1, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, ul. Wańkowicza 1, www.zapiecek.eu. Open 11:00-22:00. Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

SCANDINAVIAN Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256. Open Mon-Fri: 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:0021:30. The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave


oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. Fantastic. BEST WAWA 2012 “Most Kid Friendly $$ Restaurant” Winner

SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www.biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00. Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804. British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items inc. Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc.

Hala Koszyki ul. Koszykowa 63. Open Tue-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-17:00. This charming neo-Gothic pile of bricks hosts one of the quaintest little bazaars Warsaw’s ever seen. On the ground floor, there’s a fantastic butcher’s and fruit out back. Upstairs, cold cuts, Greek seafood, cheese, a juice bar and Warsaw’s best cakes. Repeat after me: Warsaw’s best cakes. Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available. Le Targ ul. Królowej Aldony 5 and various locations. Open Thu 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00 (but check for updates). Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves (also found at Nowy Targ), Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all

still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however. Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves. Martin’s Good Meat ul. Przejazd 4, tel. 797 866 131. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 9:00-14:00. Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef, not to mention lamb, veal and seasoned steaks. A candidate for Warsaw’s best butchery, no less! Nowy Targ in Nowy Teatr ul. Madalińskiego 10/16. Open Sat 9:0015:00. Since the beginning of April Nowy Targ has been gathering local, small-scale

POLISH DELICACIES: - Home-made bread - Polish style duck from the oven - Polish fish - Polish seasoned beef steaks ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45 00-071 Warszawa tel. 22 826 47 70 info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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RESTAURANTS producers, some organically certified, in a huge industrial building in the middle of Mokotów. Nowy Targ offers a plethora of things: from regional products such as oscypek and smoked meats to ready-to-eat fare (coffee, cakes, roasted sausages, green smoothie concoctions) to candles made from organic soy wax. Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili

peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, coffee from Florence and Olives from Puglia. And not just Italian: find a range of foods from both Spain and France. BEST WAWA 2012 “Gourmet Grocery” Winner Polna Market ul. Polna 13, Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat

7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West. Find a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butcher, and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables, but at a cost. Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego. Open Sat 8:00-14:00. The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town.

WHOLE FOODS VegeMiasto ul. Chmielna 9A, tel . 607 031 114. Open 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. A giant red mural flags VegeMiasto, making it impossible to miss. Acting as flypaper for student types, the menu is a vegan, largely gluten-free affair. Even staunch meat eaters should visit for the smoothies and shakes. $

COOKING SCHOOLS

JASNA 24 was created for all those who don’t only appreciate excellent food, refined drinks and elegant spaces, but also a dash of flavor from the world of art and culture. We have live music every Wednesday, a comfortable atmosphere, magnificent cocktails and a modern, contemporary menu.

Restaurant: Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 Drink Bar: Fri-Sat 17:00-last guest ul. Jasna 24 tel. 22 447 24 41 restauracja@jasna24.pl, www.jasna24.pl

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Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, www.cookup.pl. Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Themes from March included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work. Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, www.jospehseeletso.pl. A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailor-made courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself. Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, www.schelleracademy.pl. Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all levels of competency.


Reviews: Winosfera 59 / Plus:

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS CAFES 59 / WINE BARS 62

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Insider’s Pick

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

BOW 2012 Winner........... Breakfast menu ............. Business meetings.......... Child friendly................... Delivery............................. Free wifi.............................. Map location pg. 86 ...... (A1) Romantic.......................... Vegetarian friendly...........

CAFÉS Aroma ul. Krucza 6, tel. 22 376 5475, www.aromaespressobar.pl. Open 7:0022:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-20:00. An attractive Israeli owned spot with white painted walls and a busy café atmosphere – hissing coffee contraptions and lively sounds. The sandwiches are nice enough, but we like this place for their other offerings: cinnamon twisters, Belgian waffles and chocolate croissants. Winosfera ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 2500, www.winosfera.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

love Chłodna: if nothing else, it’s one of the great anomalies of Warsaw. In parts, it’s been visibly touched by star dust – glinting offices, freshly laid cobbles and primpedup facades. In others, it looks like a shanty town of shabby pavilions selling second hand mops. You could, therefore, perceive opening a wine bar / restaurant here as a bit of a risk. But judging by Winosfera’s opening months, it’s a gamble that has borne fruit. Looking stark and severe from the outside, the interiors are anything but – sure it’s a little bare and concrete, but clever lighting and the constant clatter from an open kitchen mean at no time does it feel cold or clinical. You warm to it fast – even more so if you snag a seat on the terrace to the side. As the name suggests, wine is key – if the stock of 500 world wines doesn’t prove that, then Winosfera’s events list should: it was here the latest installment of the Polish sommelier championship was held. But wine isn’t the only talking point. The kitchen is led by chef Jakub Adamczyk, an upcoming star who cut his teeth under the watchful eye of Phil Howard (of Michelin mainstay The Square). Adamczyk’s menu is succinct and concise, with pretty much five options for each course. Says the young chef: “Like the interiors, I want the food to be clean, clear, fresh and accessible – not tired, not overwhelming.” In this, Adamczyk succeeds. With an emphasis on fresh, seasonal produce, the food is of magnificent quality. Razor thin octopus tagliata arrives on a black slate, with a careful sprinkle of mango, ginger, chili and coriander. A delicious foie gras is served in a jam jar. For mains, the pink beef fillet is complimented by a creamy mushroom puree and a rich bourginon sauce. And oh, the olive-crusted cod. Everything that lands on our table scores a perfect 10. Since launching, the dining aspect has maintained a consistently glorious standard. In the meantime, other fronts have also been addressed: the staff, once solemn and somber and in need of a shellacking, have raised their game; in short, there’s not one weak point to name. If you haven’t already, then visit – if you have already, then visit again. (AW)

Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest. There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100 year history. Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who had a fondness for their donuts. Bubbleology ul. Chmielna 26, www.bubbleology.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café. But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. ‘Bubble Tea’ is the beverage here, with an arsenal of fruit flavors made by zany lab coated staff.

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Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Puławska 24, www.bulkeprzezbibulke. pl. Open 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-16:00. There’s definitely a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; still very much the choice haunt for the in-team. Café Lorentz Al. Jerozolimskie 3. Open Mon 10:00-20:00; Tue-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Set at the front of the National Museum this place has a nice indoor area with high ceilings and minimalist decorations and a green outdoor area populated by wickers chairs and hammocks. As is the rage in Warsaw, the menu is light, natural and healthy. Café Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620 3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:0023:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. Ignoring the fact that most of this street looks ready to fall down, the artsy-looking Próżna comes with a chic, ice white look, and a stack of hard-back tomes to compliment the homemade desserts. Even better at night, when soaked in the glow of dozens of candles. Café Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115. Open daily 6:30-24:00. A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from almond croissants to delicate brioches. Christian’s Bakerhouse ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00. A top quality bakery/café/restaurant owned by celebrity chef Krystian Zalejski. Fixed up in rustic style, the ever changing menu round at Christian’s is mostly filled with Italian staples – but with a twist. Think pappardelle with roasted duck slices and rosemary. Croque Madame (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 41, tel. 793 794 318. Open

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8:00-22:00. A French-themed charmer with rough, white painted brickwork, distressed wooden furniture and lots of eccentric bric-a-brac to keep an eye out for. Dealing out fresh baguettes and pastries, the whole boulangerie/café concept is excellently executed. Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 22 881 8677. Open Mon-Sun 12:0021:00. Dziurka serves an ambiguous role as a bar, restaurant and cafe. Curious doors sit embedded on the wall, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Flowers, plant pots and violet splashes give it a cheerful spin, while the Italian inspired menu isn’t short on creative flair. Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21. Open 10:00-22:00. An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Betters”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are even better though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural. Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30. Open daily 8:00-22:00. An attractive modern café in the heart of Saska Kępa with an artsy feel. A large selection of coffee drinks as well as teas, complemented by a choice of pastries, muffins and simple Italian dishes at affordable prices. Green Caffe Nero Many locations inc. Pl. Konstytucji 1, www. greencaffenero.pl. The British Nero chain have hooked up with the Green Coffee phenomena, with Green Caffe Nero the result of the unlikely fusion. Expect quality Italian blends, and fresh made-on-the-day food across the city. Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822, www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses. KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, www.klubokawiarnia.net. Open 9:00-last guest. Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors.

Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, screenings and art happenings have launched it into local conscience.

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Kubek w Kubek Café ul. Grażyny 16, tel. 796 207 488, www. kubekwkubek.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:3020:00; Sat-Sun 9:30-17:00. The philosophy of the place is simple and Scandinavian, i.e., high quality products, a concise menu and an understated interior. They now offer sandwiches, to go as well, with coffee, and an incredible meringue torte in various versions, which the owners say will become the place’s trademark. La Lush ul. Senatorska 24. Open Mon-Fri 6:00-18:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-18:00. Lovely bread-based fare, homemade marmalades and coffee beans roasted just for them: La Lush is already something of a favorite. It closes early by Warsaw’s standards, but the times prove quite sufficient considering the menu La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, www.lavanille.pl. Open 8:00-20:00. In much the same way Charlotte is so much more than a bakery, La Vanille is definitely more than your standard confectioners. Thick with the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that acts as a magnetic force, and it’s here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation.

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Limoni Canteri 1952 ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open 8:00-22:00. Appearing as a wooden cabin in an overgrown park (someone, clear it up please), Limoni get noted for Italian gelato that’s too good for words – join the line for tastes like cherry, plum and redcurrant, or go edgy and experimental with flavors such as salmon, tomato or basil. Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders. Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric


Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards. Mam Ochotę ul. Grójecka 75, tel. 22 667 8280, mamochote. blogspot.com. Open 9:00-24:00. A hip haven in an upcoming area this café gets cool concerts and other such events. And unlike most cafés in its genre, you don’t get the impression you’ll catch fleas from the seats. Attractive light woods and guest artwork keep this place looking fresh and fun. Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, tel. 22 828 5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. One of Warsaw’s enduring legends, and as popular at night as it is during the day; media types love it, and you’ll find them pecking on quesadilla type snacks inside a hip, white interior. Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 512 091 840, www.ministerstwokawy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Were it not for the fact MK opened after voting had closed, you’d have bet your bottom zlot this would have romped home with our ‘best café’ award. Decorated sparingly with white wall tiles and wooden floors, this newbie numbers some ace fruit drinks amongst its greater glories. MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www.mito. art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:00-23:00. Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by modern art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel. my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego),  www.myomy.pl. Open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Slightly rustic in design, with flower-patterned pillows, wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor. The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic. Om Nom Nom ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 10:00-23:00. Looking clean, clinical but strangely warming, Om Nom Nom specialize in their own ice cream lollies: all in cutesy designs and dipped in

crunchy colorful toppings. The beer is just as good, with independent Polish brewers well represented. Petit Appetit (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, www.petitappetit.pl. Open 6:30-23:30. Cartoon murals, brickwork and that must for the season – a communal table – all contribute to marking Petit Appetit as something of a winner. Their real success though is as a bakery: loaves, baguettes, pastries are produced to expert standard. Piaskownica (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 9:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest. During daylight it’s a coffee bar; come nightfall beer becomes the choice of the people. Popular with college kids, find announcements like ‘Tofu Attack’ chalked on the blackboards. Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30. Informal looking with its clean white finishes and stripped wood floors, it’s an ideal spot for a lazy weekend – and with the garden furniture back out, few places in Warsaw feel so naturally continental. The food, it needs to be said, is very good indeed, with hefty steaks, multiple burgers and some fine desserts.

the long communal table – who you end up talking to is down to the dice. There’s few better places to order the Prosecco and act oh so continental. Sto900 (E3) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 787 696 241. Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:0024:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. A fabulous café/ restaurant with a spontaneous design that jumbles bricks and wood with mismatched furniture. From the outside, this place looks like the entrance to a squat, so be surprised to learn it’s not just the atmosphere that’s ace. The menu changes daily, but usually involves

HARD ROCK CAFE WARSAW IS NOW SERVING BREAKFASTS

Relaks ul. Puławska 48. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. Delete Starbucks from memory: if you take your coffee seriously, then no-one does it better than this lot. Using a number of brewing methods, the baristas here are top of their trade, doing their stuff in a cool interior with a heavy retro accent. Secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00. You might already be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town. Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest. It’s a winner! Socjal (E4) ul. Foksal 18, tel. 601 318 966. Open 9:00-4:00. Looking raw, industrial and refreshingly ascetic, the principal feature of Socjal is

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS commendable burgers (with a daring but successful addition of beetroot) alongside more unexpected dishes: e.g. eko-falafel. Ukryte Miasto ul. Noakowskiego 16, tel. 270 2388. Open 10:30-22:00. This smart, modern looking bookshop/cafe would do well no matter, considering its next-to-polytechnic courtyard location. But it’s done even better since opening its back room stage area to the Chłodna Comedy Club. Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16. Open Mon-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-1:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

WINE BARS Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. Covertly stashed inside a courtyard, that Ale Wino’s! neighbors include fashion Tsar Robert Kupisz announce this place as the frontline of cool – as if to qualify this, find furnishing by the celebrated design brains at Studio Rygalik. Stocked with wines from 16 countries, place your trust in sommelier Adrian Litkowicz for a taste of something special. Cabernet ul. Woronicza 31, tel. 22 115 13 04, www.cabernet.net.pl. Open Mon-Thu 12:0022:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. Warsaw’s appetite for the grape shows no sign of abating. The latest wine bar to hit the market has a warehouse look, a strong menu – with surprisingly modest prices – and a drinks selection of approximately 150 wines: most of which are available by the glass. Charlotte (D6) pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open MonFri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-22:00. It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Mac technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

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Duchnicka Wine & Food Tucked away off center in a renovated factory, Duchnicka functions as a wine store, restaurant and an emphatically good wine bar – so good, in fact, it was the runaway winner in our annual awards. There’s over 700 wines to pick from, and you won’t go wrong placing faith in the sommelier, Rafał Kiś. BEST WAWA 2012 “Wine Bar” Winner Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight; Sun 14:00-22:00. Located just outside the Old Town, this minimalist wine bar is a great place for a date. Wines from top European wine makers are impressive and the prices are very decent. Hoża by Mondovino ul. Hoża 25, tel. 603 778 275. Open a matter of hours before we hit the printers, so we’ve no report yet other than we’ve been told to expect big, big things from this café-resto-bar hybrid. So we hear, there’s an expert Argentinean chef at the helm – we can’t wait to see what he does with the grill. Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine bar on ul. Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, café-style chic. The shops’ wines are sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions. The summer courtyard garden is a particular standout feature. Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Some call it the best wine bar in Warsaw, others the best in Poland. Either way, this place hits the right notes with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu, old and new world wines and a chic warehouse design filled to bursting with crates and boxes.

Vinoteka 13 + Wine Bar (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7407, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This premium wine shop and bar is tucked away in the beautiful Likus Concept Store. It sports a wide selection of fine wines from Italy, France, and Spain, along with some stronger spirits and Cuban cigars at a varied price range. Also serves a tasting menu of cheeses and deli meats. WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 8, tel. 22 646 8742, www.winkolekcja.pl. Open 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. You can’t pick your neighbors... In WinKolekcja’s case, that means a kebab shop opposite and a bottle bank with a constant stream of street bums. But in spite of the curious location, this new wine bar/ store looks set to thrive; the wine choice is comprehensive, and the food excellent. The design has the routine look of a club class lounge area; even so, it’s a timely addition to an area not rich in options. Winny Przystanek ul. Mickiewicza 20, tel. 789 321 333. Open Tue-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Mon 15:0022:00. Found on the frontline of Żoliborz here’s the perfect wine bar – no jumped up city traders, just a chilled out crowd of locals enjoying a tipple from the impressive wall of wine. You’ll warm immediately to the condensed interiors which resound to the busy scrape of wood fittings on tiled, checkered floors. A great initiative that shows a good wine bar doesn’t have to take itself too seriously. Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 29/31. Lending a lift to a sad stretch of Chłodna is Winosfera, a huge wine bar with all the requisite crates and industrial fittings – there’s even a cinema. The upside is true fine dining, and a flawless wine selection. Opened in Feb, it’s already become a much used Insider hangout. Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32, tel. 696 561 652. Open 12:0024:00. Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve already won a staunchly loyal following. Get your week off to a galloping start and visit on ‘Jazz Monday’s’. You’ll be joining the most beautiful people in the city.


Reviews: Kufle i Kapsle 63 / Plus:

* 3 updates

NIGHTLIFE

BARS & PUBS 63 / CLUBS 68 / GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS 70 / JAZZ CLUBS 70 / OUTDOOR BARS 64 / SHOT BARS 66

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Insider’s Pick

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews

BOW 2012 Winner........... Food Served.................... Free wifi.............................. Live Music.......................... Map location pg. 86 ...... (A1) Romantic..........................

BARS & PUBS Bazar (F1) ul. Okrzei 22, tel. 508 321 264. Open 12:00-last guest. There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing. Kufle i Kapsle  ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218. Open 16:00-24:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVN DEMARIA

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he good news just doesn’t stop. There’s been a string of positives to take from this year, but none have been quite so welcome as the arrival of the tap bar. As local trends go, it’s better than most. So far, since last summer, we’ve seen burgers, bubble tea and even baguettes have their moment – now, another B is in the spotlight: the beer bar. It started in May with the launch of Cuda na Kiju, and Warsaw’s proud tradition of plagiarizing smart ideas has continued with the opening of Kufle i Kapsle. Serving approx. 10 tap and 2 pump beers, the offer rotates daily, with lager, IPA, pilsner and bitter all making appearances. And, just to really fox the indecisive, the fridges below offer something in the region of 120 world beers. In short, this could be a rather jolly summer. It looks the part and all: although opened in mid-June, it already looks pleasantly worn and warm. The interiors, a jumble of sofas, chests, cupboards and brickwork, are in balance with the building’s pre-war heritage, and on any given night you’ll find a glass clinking buzz hanging heavy in the air. Don’t, however, think this bar is flawless. Smokers are exiled outside under a stack of scaffolding (don’t touch, the whole lot looks like it’s going to come crashing down any given minute), and both the bar and the staff have a tendency to get overwhelmed and overrun. The biggest problem, however, is the sheer bloody heat. There is a ventilation system, but it operates on extremes: either too effective or barely noticeable. It can get seriously toasty in here, and yes, the beers could be cooler as well: you can stock the best beers in the world, but they require respect and careful storage. In fairness though, I’m almost digging for faults. The bottom line is thus: with KiK on the map we’re very lucky indeed – where else, for instance, can you find beers from Brew Dog (Britain’s best brewery!), or drink a lager called Space Invader (for the record, at zł. 35 it’s wickedly overpriced). And get this, where else deals out mini samplers (four different tap beers served up in itsy little glasses)? Sure, it’s not the perfect bar, but all things considered it’s not that far off. (AW)

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Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest. As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank. The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub.pl. How fickle this city can be. The big fail of 2012. Forget that it’s the most accurate replica of a traditional British pub around, and consider instead the heinous service, fried aromas and a deserved ex-pat boycott traced to the dismissal of the original British manager. Browarmia (C3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An industrial looking microbrewery filled with mysterious pipes, valves and gauges. The summer terrace is great, making it one of the best places around for a brew with a view.

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NIGHTLIFE Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 523 749 160. Open 12:00-5:00. An artsy carpentered bar, white wall tiles and trendy draftsman desk lamps lend the severe looking Bufet Centralny no shortage of style, and instinct suggests it’ll continue to serve as one of Warsaw’s more happening bars for some time to come. But the service and customers do think highly of themselves, points outsiders might find obnoxious.

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Chmielarnia ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), www. chmielarnia.waw.pl. Waiting to open at press time, Chmielarnia promise much – 40 plus beers rotating on 15 taps, stacks more of bottled lager, and a Nepalese/Thai menu courtesy of Chef Ram: formerly of Katmandu and Mandala. We’re expecting very big things.

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Coctail Bar Max ul. Krucza 16/22, www.barmax.pl. With its light wood touches and fruity montages Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for summer. Already successfully established

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in the north of Poland, CBM have made a splash in the capital on account of top notch cocktails served to a slick looking audience.

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Cuda Na Kiju ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106. Open 9:00-last guest. Warsaw’s multi-tap revolution started here! Marketed at normal people – not just hipsters for a change – this sleek space comes drenched with in sunlight that comes slanting through the four glass wall. Could it be too basic? No – anything else would detract from the main attraction: the beer. About 15 taps dispense regional brews, cult indy productions as well as quirky imports from Czech, Belgium and beyond. Czarna.Bar ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. 22 416 2467. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:0021:00. The look doesn’t say ‘just finished’, it says ‘haven’t even started’. Cables hang from walls, and specks of paint cover the grey / white surfaces – whether this is actually part of the final design one can only guess. It’s upstairs you’ll find most people moving to,

and we like it very much. Looking fashionably spartan, the area includes an L-shaped mattress thing, and a glass wall which allows you to peer in on the chef downstairs. Czeska Baszta Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego. Open Tues-Thurs, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00. Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish glow, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet. Czysta Ojczysta (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-4:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00. Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors,


iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo. Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar (E6) ul. Mokotowska 43. Open 12:00-23:00. Checkered floor tiles, pristine whites and classic pictures of the rich and famous announce Flaming. The guys look like Bond villains and the gals just like Bond girls, but don’t think it’s a closed shop. With glasses of Moet starting below zł. 50 it’s accessible to all. But forget the champagne, it’s their cocktails we love. Order oysters and let the night take its course. BEST WAWA 2012 “Cocktails” Winner Kraken Rum Bar ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-4:00. Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodsy Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The

house beer rocks though. Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl. Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Chilled out and downtempo, owners Zosia and Michał have created a legend out of this dinky two room affair. There’s too many beers to recommend, though the Rowing Jack diminishes quickly for a reason. Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background. Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. Open 17:00-last guest. Tight trousers and flamboyant scarves are

recommended in this hipster mecca, as is a triumphant drinks choice that numbers short of sixty regional beers. Design doesn’t go beyond jam jars for lights and a messy blackboard, but that’s all this place needs to work. Similar backstreet New York dive it’s got an effortless cool and our beer of the year: the minty flavor/raspberry hint M3. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps. Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl. Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

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NIGHTLIFE Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Engage in suicidal cocktail consumption alongside high rollers and genetic miracles. Slick and smooth, Poland’s original cocktail chain continues to set the bar high with formidable cocktails (Pimm’s included!) and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door. Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16. Open 9:00-last guest. Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks. Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A. Open 11:00-last guest. Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red

Shot Bars *

Afera na Szpitalnej ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 509 777 797. Open 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 24hrs. Looking light and bright this place appeals to more than just hardened alcoholics – a point proved by spot-on food home cooked by the owner’s mum. It’s young, fun and lively in swagger. Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21. Open 11:00-6:00. Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to chains of bog paper that commonly retailed. Między Wódką z Zakąską  ul. Chmielna 13. Open 10:00-24:00. Like most of its ilk, design never gets involved here. But that doesn’t stop one of the most diverse crowds in Warsaw gathering: on our visit, that meant Hilfiger clad preppies arm-wrestling (and winning) against the local hoods. Go Tommy! The five zlot plastic glasses of Brackie get

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shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab. Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Bottled then packaged in Plan B (pl. Zbawiciela) is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 22, tel. 501 048 471. Open 12:00-last guest. A collective groan was issued when their premises on Ząbkowska closed, so it’s three cheers to learn they’re back at a

the job done, and fast. Pijalnia ul. Nowy Świat 19. Open 24hrs. Bow-tied staff serve vodka and pickles from behind a tiled bar to a crowd that gets younger as the day gets older. In quieter times, check the newspaperd walls to read up on 1980s sports reports. Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. Warsaw’s original shot bar dispenses vodkas, beer and stuff you really shouldn’t eat in a mirrored environment with drooping plants. The stern, tuxedoed service makes you wonder why this battered-looking gloomhole remains so popular. Warszawska Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. 600 121 240. Open 24hrs. When Plan B closes the hardcore head here. Little more than a grey concrete room, this newbie is winning the war as the city’s favorite shot bar.

new address. Looking more sanitized than the shabby original, the standout feature of this dark-looking, brick-ceilinged haunt is what ranks as Warsaw’s best collection of craft beers.

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Rain by India Curry ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350. What was a standard Indian restaurant has been reinvented as both a slick ‘modern Indian’ eatery and… a bar! There’s Perła on tap, but the real point is made by the cocktails. They’re concocted by Konrad (ex Porto Praga), a mixologist supreme: with Warsaw on heat, try the watermelon Martini or the house drink – Frozen Rain. With this guy making the drinks, you won’t stop at one. Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49. Open Mon-Thur 16:0024:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00. The intimate layout makes use of wobbly antiques, sofas covered in velvety fabrics and weird extras like a mannequin donning a Russian hat with furry, flappy ears. Nights typically involve lots of yet-to-be-famous beers, while the lamp-lit toilet, seemingly built into a pre-war fireplace, is like stepping through the looking glass. Spotkanie ze Szpiegiem (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit. Świetlica ul. Marszalkowska 17. Open 12:00-last guest. Described by one Insider as a ‘Bukowski bar’, this dark dive features dusty, yellowing comics and wobbly lampshades amid all the raw brickwork and battleship colors. Once your eyes accustom to the (lack of) light, you’ll note other details: random outbreaks of origami, a set of DJ decks lumped in a corner (find the music schedule tipp-ex’ed on the window), and a decent selection of Czech origin beers. Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, www. syrenispiew.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 17:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00. Housed in a 70s monster


Searching out SASKA

2. Prosta Historia ul. Francuska 24 Informal looking with its simple white finishes and stripped wooden floors, Prosta fills the role of cafe/restaurant/ bar/meeting point. And it does all the aforementioned very well indeed, thanks to a skilled chef, good drinks offer and continental terrace.

Saska Kępa might not be everyone’s idea of an evening out, but Warsaw’s favorite garden suburb is taking cute, baby steps to correct its fear of the night.

3. Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska

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CÓW CIĘZ ZWY

ul. Zwycięzców 49 Set in a 1950s concrete horror, KT is the nerve center for all that is happening and hip this side of the water. Downstairs the ascetic look gives way to plum tinted walls, retro seats and muted lights. It’s here musicians, DJs and people with projectors entertain Saska’s growing band of night owls.

1. OSP ul. Walecznych 74 Already listed in our rundown of wacky Warsaw theme bars, OSP gets another outing in this issue on account of being Saska’s best bar. Interesting beers and an equally interesting backdrop (a fire station for Pete’s sake) combine to make it a firm must-visit.

5. Bistro Toscana ul. Zwycięzców 28 It might not be a bar, but Bistro Toscana get noticed for a sun kissed terrace that excels on summer weekends. Order the Prosecco and let the day slip into night…

4. Kuchnia Funkcjonalna ul. Jakubowska 16 Just a minute from busy Francuska, this hidden pearl features a tranquil garden and a rough industrial look on the inside. Mainly known for food, it’s also got a cool summer vibe perfect for evening drinks – just bring mozzie spray. facebook.com/warsawinsider

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NIGHTLIFE this two floor bar maintains its element of retro chic while at the same time providing a genuinely unique drinking experience. Aimed at a more mature, affluent crowd than their sister bar (Warszawa PKP Powiśle), the standout factor is a whisky menu divided up into regions BEST of Scotland, Ireland and Japan. WAWA 2012 “New Bar” Winner Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00. This is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world.

this and you’ll be pleased to find excellent whisky – mostly from the Speyside Spey Distillery – inside dimly-lit pragmatic interiors.

bands and some of the top electronic acts around, this is definitely one to add to the watch list.

Znajomi Znajomych (D5) ul. Wilcza 58A. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last client; Sat-Sun 16:00-last guest. In summer Zna Zna’s prewar courtyard feels like an urban oasis, but you’re missing the point if you think that’s the highlight. Set on two retro-themed levels (including an upstairs room that, pleasingly, could pass for Ron Jeremy’s orgy chamber), it’s become something of a cultural institution: concerts, screenings and markets all take place here, not to mention hot and heavy DJ sets that last long into the night.

DeLite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub.com. Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest. Exposed brick pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror set-up in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, pretty-in-pink, spaceship interiors. Joining the top table of Warsaw’s other ‘uber klubs’ De Lite gets even better once access to the VIP room is scored.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. The prime months for this former ticket-booth are in summer when the deck chairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as the hipster Center of Power, a collective bout of outrage saved them from council threatened closure earlier in the year. Not just a bar, they’re now filling a dual role as Warsaw’s one billionth burger joint.

1500m2 (F4) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. Set in a former printing factory, 1500m2 has been central to the rise of Powiśle. The industrial space has a real Berlin edge to it, and events range from weekend flea markets to teeth shattering, dusk-till-dawn electro events.

Warszawska Pijalnia Whisky (D4) ul. Zgoda 6, tel. 22 553 61 00, www.pijalniawhisky.pl. Open Mon -Sun 12:0022:00. With no old oak cabinets or portraits of Cambridge scholars it’s not the charismatic whisky bar one expects. Come to terms with

Basen ul. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 696 058 944, www.artbasen.pl. Open Fri-Sat 21:00-6:00. Get this, you’ll be doing your dance steps in what was formerly Warsaw’s first public swimming pool. Featuring a line-up of live

Opened June 21st!

CLUBS

A mecca for beer enthusiasts with over 40 top Polish and international breweries represented and rotated on up to 16 beer taps. These include: Pinta, Rodenbach, Tucher, St. Austell, Ale Browar, Haust, Jan Olbracht and many more. And we’re not just about beer but quality food! Order gourmet Thai and Nepalese dishes cooked by our Nepalese chef!

CHMIELARNIA MULTI-TAP

UL. TWARDA 42 (BASEMENT LEVEL) WWW.CHMIELARNIA.WAW.PL

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Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:00-4:00. Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost. The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open Wed-Fri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest. Beauty and booty come first in The Eve, a blinged up offshoot of Platinium nearby. A cutthroat door policy ensures plenty of egos crash and die at the door, and it’s got a Bacchanalian reputation for champagne popping high jinks. Observe them through the one way mirror in the VIP room.

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The Fame ul. Nowy Świat 21, tel. 500 000 519, www.thefame.pl. Open Fri-Sat 20:00-last guest. The music policy promises a ‘retrospective of house from beginning till now’, and is lapped up by a typically Warsaw crowd of hot young things. Foksal XVIII ul. Foksal 18. Open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00. Composed using chandeliers, bricks and velvet this classy space has gone head to head with The Eve as Warsaw’s flashest venue: breathe deep and smell the money. Luzztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luztro.pl. Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a nefarious reputation as something of a dodgy den of illicit pharmaceuticals and libertine behavior. Looking grim and grotty, this after party legend gets going at about 4 a.m. when troglodyte club creatures


WELCOME TO THE EXCLUSIVE COYOTE NIGHT CLUB You can find everything you want, and what you never dreamed of... Deepest dreams stand in front of you at your fingertips. www.coyotenightclub.pl ul. Mazowiecka 6/8 mob.: 505 469 056 kontakt@coyotenightclub.pl


NIGHTLIFE emerge to put the final touches to their zonked out stare. For the full tilt, teeth rattling electro experience it’s pretty hard to beat. Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. A labyrinth of passageways and chambers await in Opera, a subterranean club located underneath the National Theater. Touting an exotic, far eastern look, it’s one of the best designed clubs you could imagine. Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, www.platiniumclub.pl. Open Wed-Sat 20:00-6:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but BEST you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now.

WAWA 2012 “Rich & Pretty Club” Winner

friendship taking place behind the curtain.

Sztuki & Sztuczki ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 468 00 00, www.sztukisztucki.pl. Open Mon-Tue 13:00-22:00; Wed-Thu 13:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 13:00-4:00. Ducking into a basement, the look is pure Kraków cool: covert corners and vaulted brick ceilings. Already established as one the top spots for alternative live music, find a high voltage atmosphere and a drinks list that’s lauded and applauded: Baczewski vodka to Svyturys beer.

New Orleans ul. Zgoda 11, tel. 22 826 4831, www.neworleans. pl. Open 21:00-4:00. High rollers looking to clinch a deal in unusual surrounds should consider doing so in New Orleans: a gentleman’s club with a seriously VIP dining area. Cheaper snack and sandwich options available should you prefer to spend your money on the real reason you’re here…

GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS Coyote (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, www.coyotebar.eu. Coyote Bar marks the start of the Mazowiecka, err, strip, and features a small bar in front and then a larger room with more intimate acts of

Outdoor Bars Cud nad Wisłą (E2) ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie, tel. 533 649 561, www.cudnadwisla.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. What summer drinking should be about. Deckchairs and cushions abound in this riverside spot, and it excels at night when twinkly lights reflect off the inky black waters. The live music does its bit to ensure it’s never a quiet night. La Playa ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, www.laplaya.pl. Mix-up surf inspired cocktails, lager in plastic glasses, a volleyball net, lounge chairs and some spontaneous samba, and you get the most unexpected beach party you’d ever imagine. If you’re feeling particularly daring, go skinny dipping in the murky, muddy Wisła. Lolek ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), tel. 22 825 6202, www.lolekpub.pl. Open daily 11:00-03:00. A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a park-centered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open fire, inside this classic rough-and-ready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged.

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Miasto Cypel ul. Zaruskiego 6, miastocypel.eu. Open Mon-Thur 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-6:00; Sat 12:00-6:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Located in a forest clearing near the banks of the Wisła, this creative community includes a campsite and flea market. Visit late on a weekend to find the marquees and openair stages jumping to diverse sounds enjoyed by a varied crowd. Greeting sunrise here can be an ethereal experience, though a tolerance to mosquitoes and other hungry critters is required. Na Lato ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 692 280 094. The former HQ of the SLD political party now finds itself utilized as a bar. Their success though is largely due to the shaded park outside. Filled out with deckchairs, it’s come to resemble a giant, beery picnic. Plac Zabaw ul. Myśliwiecka 9 (Park Agrykola). Open 12:00-4:00. Owned by the same dudes behind Plan B, the name translates as ‘Playground’. With a low-key, open air set-up in the wooded bit under Trasa Łazienkowska, from an aesthetic point there’s little to write home about. Even so, with summer in song you’ll find it rocking into the wee, early hours.

Playhouse Al. Solidarności 82A, www.playhouse.com. pl. Housed in a former bomb shelter, would you believe it. Now though the talk is of bombshells, namely the 57 they’ve got on their books. Like most clubs, this place features a distinctly Slavic lineup of Poles, Russians and Ukrainians.

Sin Club ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, www.sinclub. com.pl. One of the biggest and best dance stables in town offers a pleasingly international line-up that demonstrates a serious recruitment drive. You won’t find a more central strip club in town.

JAZZ Bistro na Pięknej ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, www.jazzone.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00. A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts. Nu ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 621 8989. Open 10:00-24:00. For something a little educated take a date to Nu, a high-ceilinged effort with slick urban dashes and regular piano. The Żurawia location marks it out as a popular spot for a high-end crowd. Tygmont Jazz Club (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl. Open daily 16:00-4:00. For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics.


Reviews: A & A Bath 71

SHOPPING ACCESSORIES 72 / FASHION 71 / SHOPPING MALLS 72

FASHION

A&A Bath ul. Chmielna 12, tel. 883 310 201 / 883 311 030, agnieszki@dwieagnieszki.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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LOGO WITHOUT AE.COM

LOGO WITH AE.COM

LOCKUP WITHOUT AE.COM

LOCKUP WITH AE.COM

Insider’s Pick

EAGLE

lthough shopping for house ware in Warsaw never used to be much of an exciting pursuit (aside from IKEA, what was there five years back?), I’ve noticed lately lots of little design stores popping up over the city. Among that number is A&A Bath on Chmielna, and though not a newbie – it’s been present on the market for two years – I found that not enough people know about it. This ain’t no Bed, Bath & Beyond – the boutique is tiny – but in this case, small is definitely beautiful. Upon entering you get the sense of a summer cabin somewhere in Norway, and rightly so, as one of the store’s owners tells me the idea was to offer products that have a Scandinavian and New England aesthetic. The design of the shop itself is simple yet chic. The products, again, simple, but in this case that’s a good thing: the simplicity renders their elegance. The color schemes of most of what the store has on offer are predominantly whites, grays and beiges, and most have been designed by the two owners (both called Agnieszka) and produced in Poland. Even so, you will find imports from Denmark and Sweden. And how did this little gem come about? Inspired by their travels, and appalled at the lack of bath stores in Warsaw, the two best friends decided to put their design and business skills to the test and launch A&A Bath. So what will I go for this time? Maybe the revamped chair from the “second-chance” line - Oh! Didn’t I tell you that aside from creating brand new products, they also bring old furniture back to life. So, next time you are looking for a hip toilet roll, or a designer soap box, make sure you stop by this place. (ID)

American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 665 625 718, facebook. com/AmericanEaglePoland. Open MonSat10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style. Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. Boudoir 26 ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 22 400 9330, www.boudoir26.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A unique luxury lingerie boutique selling top brands like Chantal Thomass, Lou Paris, ID Sarrieri and Chantelle. The boutique offers a high quality shopping experience inside a comfortable space. Shopping by appointment also available, where you can enjoy the shopping experience with a glass of bubbly. Hot Herring Lifestyle Concept Store Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5, tel. 22 270 2945. A spacious loft-like interior is home to a selection of nice fashion, shoes and accessories from Europe, Japan and the US. What the brands have in common is attention-to-detail, craftsmanship and top fabrics. Whether it’s a pair of selvedge jeans or a super fine silk dress, this is the place for timeless style. Joanna Klimas (B2) ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292,

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SHOPPING www.joannaklimas.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:0020:00. One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. Likus Concept Store (D3) Wolf Center, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom. Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, office@moliera2.com, www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories. QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48 (courtyard), tel. 690 021 787, www.robertkupisz.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00. One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner, and Kupisz’s latest collection is a tribute to Americana: think disheveled cowgirls flouncing on the prairie. Reykjavik District (F4) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, www.reykjavikdistrict.com. Open Tues-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Chic, wellcut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

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Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, www.snobissimo.pl. Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a onestop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

ACCESSORIES Bagatt (E6) ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 621 9144. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Bagatt features Italian-made footwear. A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży.

Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections. Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances. Batycki (various locations) Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite. HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, www.mokotowska63.com. Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern. Secret Life (of Things) ul. Polna 18/20, tel. 22 412 4811, www.secretlife.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. And it’s the multi-colored tins that greet you at the door, all of them crying out ‘drink me’. Check the prestigious porcelain by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes.

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range. For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

SHOPPING MALLS Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, www.klif.pl. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Bomi supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. Hip and high-end department store with units such as NYCity (DKNY, Donna Karan), Berries & Co. (Ice Watch, Triwa, Ike Milano), UEG, My Paris and Take a Nap selling great pieces from both established and upcoming designers. Vitkac Wolf Bracka Wolf Center, ul. Bracka 9, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega, Yves Saint Laurent, etc… Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.


Buy the NUMBERS

To steal the show this summer look your catwalk best and accessorize yourself with this season’s must have items…

1. TOD'S, zł. 2,268 at Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 2. VALENTINO, zł. 664 at Moliera 2 3. BALMAIN, zł. 1,020 at Moliera 2, 4. TORY BURCH, zł. 800 at Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, 5. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO zł. 3,360 at Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 6. RALPH LAUREN, zł. 1,201 at Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 7. BALMAIN, zł. 3,997 at Moliera 2 8. RALPH LAUREN, zł. 645 at Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4

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The greatest event this summer – Ball on the occasion of the French National Holiday French cuisine

Lottery

DJ and dancing party until the morning

Wine tasting

Game of boules

Many other attractions


Reviews: Caffe Pavillion 75 / Plus:

* 3 updates

CHILDREN ACTIVITIES 75 / CAFES 76 / EDUCATION 76 / SHOPS 79

Insider’s Pick

ACTIVITIES Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, www.kopernik.org.pl. A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered. Colourstrings Music School (Barwy Muzyki) ul. Niecała 14, tel. 22 188 1827, www. barwymuzyki.pl. The philosophy is simple: add fun to learning and create an environment where music, singing and instruments are accepted as part of the daily lifestyle. Following music sheets transformed into colorful characters, children are encouraged to experiment with instruments and song as they would with their toys.

Caffe Pavillion ul. Mickiewicza 22, tel. 881 308 738, www.kawiarnia.fdz.com.pl. Open 9:00-21:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

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ver since my daughter could hold a fork she has been what I would call a professional ice cream eater! Many a friend of ours has watched in amazement as she works her way neatly round the ice cream, nibbling the cone at regular intervals. Even the last morsel, in-between her finger and thumb, resembles a perfectly formed miniature ice cream! Whilst other mothers avoid the dreaded chocolate flavor I can relax knowing not a drip will reach her chin, let alone clothing. The annoying fact is I cannot take any of the credit; I like cake not ice cream. This is all my husband’s doing. Along with football his passion for ice cream is so strong it can lead us to the oddest locations. And with its quirky website full of historical tidbits on coffee in Poland, and the importance of sweet treats, Caffe Pavillion is just that. A short walk from Pl. Wilsona, and tucked away from the main road, Caffe Pavillion stands beside a little eco-market stall, opening daily to sell organic produce and local fruit and veg. Unlike the hip cafes of Powiśle, Pavillion’s décor is rather dated: but looks can be deceiving, so I urge you to look beyond its façade and taste some of the best homemade ice cream Warsaw has to offer. The choice is small, good for indecisive children, but stacks of mini cones are at the ready for taster tests. My daughter chose the zingy orange sorbet after testing the cherry yoghurt flavor, my husband plumped for the smooth pear sorbet, after approving the quality of the vanilla, while I reluctantly took the chef’s special, lemon & basil sorbet; I ate the lot and secretly wanted to top up! Altogether these cool, mouthwatering treats totaled the grand sum of zł. 9, so we went back and did it all again. Let it also be noted a huge football shaped ice cream cone is available for gluttons, and they also feature a selection of eight coffee beans for java lovers along with an array of cakes that range from traditional Polish delicacies to Italian tiramisu. Pavillion will even tailor-make a birthday cake! Add to this a small secret garden and wi-fi and you’re left with a perfect refreshment stop. (GBB)

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Cukier Lukier ul. Emilii Plater 10, tel. 605 660 005. Open: 11:00-13:00, 15:00-17:00. Confectionary making courses and displays that attract kids of ALL ages. Little Chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cookand-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit www.littlechef.pl or call 0501 093 691 for more information. Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.Over 300 locations worldwide, with the first one in Poland opened last November. Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well. Teatr Lalka Pl. Defilad 1 (Palace of Culture), www.

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CHILDREN teatrlalka.waw.pl. This puppet theatre stages a variation of productions suitable for children aged 3 +. Scenery, props and costume design are impressive but Polish dialogue is challenging! Losing the plot to Hansel and Gretel can happen - prepare to improvise! Tip: organize a backstage birthday party. Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl. Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

CAFES Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, www.fikumikucafe.pl. This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children. The focus is on films and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties. Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with a garden/playground, Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials.

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Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561, www.kredkafe.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows. Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space. Peek-a-boo ul. Karola Chodkiewicza 7, tel. 22 370 21 71. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 10:0020:00. The pale palette and plush velvet upholstered furniture might not be the first choice of fabrics around sticky, chocolaty paws but every mummy needs a bit of luxury from time-to-time. The café divides its limited square meters evenly between parent and child expectations, creating space to relax, eat and play in: however, the gigantic doll’s house does suggest Barbie got the best deal. Pompon (Wola) ul. Młynarska 13, www.pompmart.pl. There’s more than an organic menu to recommend about Pompom. Explore forest-to-city play environments equipped with slides, rope bridges and a selection of Wendy houses, or join the dad’s and lads in the Nintendo / Wii room. How long, you may ask, will it be till parents start turning up here without the kids just to wallow in the color?

Umpa Lumpa ul.Mickiewicza 24, tel. 22 245 1909, www.umpa-lumpa.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:0019:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00. Bit part café, most part candy store. Colorfully designed, shelves here feature an array of rainbow colored lollipops, sweets and chocolate. Spoil your toddler, and yourself while you’re there.

EDUCATION PRESCHOOLS

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American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org. ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.  Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów),mob. 502 355 919, www.trampoline.edu.pl. This preschool has a lingual profile and offers


bilingual teaching with French and English. They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dabrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 2 ½ (30 months) to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com. The English Playhouse (F12) ul. Płyćwiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, www.theenglishplayhouse.com. The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a

Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl. The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool (C11) ul. Kalatówki 24, tel. 22 898 3139, 697 979 100. The pre-school branch of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides both Polish and International 3-5 year olds with the perfect setting for their first encounters with English and French in an inquiry based classroom. Here, every task relates to real life experience and skills. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: preschool@canadian-school.pl.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16, tel./fax: 22 616 1499, www.saintexupery.pl. Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 2½ years old.

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CHILDREN Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46a (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl. Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a music and art program. Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street. The program, which is designed for 1½ to 6 year-olds, is devoted to the intellectual, emotional, social and physical development of children. Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.monte ssoriacademy.eu. An English-speaking preschool (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. Tequesta ul. Przejazd 2, tel. 603 919 096/535 400 033, info@tequesta.pl, www.tequesta.pl. Polish and English language groups for children aged from six months to six years, as well as a wide range of extra-curricular activities.

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Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul.Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-5 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), www.3languages.pl. Open 7:30-18:30. The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

SCHOOLS

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American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www. aswarsaw.org. ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/or to visit our school contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School Unit ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646 9289, 697 970 244. The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 6-10 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provides for an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include pottery, dance, ballet, capoeira, karate, emotional intelligence, art studio and tennis. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: secretary@canadian-school.pl.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 20, tel. 697 977 600, 697


979 300. The Middle and High unit of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 11-19 year olds. With both Canadian and Polish curricula content students are given the opportunity to choose between Polish Matura or IB Diploma exams. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: mid. high@canadian-school.pl.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) Established in 1994, the Antoine de SaintExupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children two to eight years old (3rd year of primary school) in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers.

is on creating a positive and vibrant learning environment. They’re also proud of their large playground and variety of healthy foods. Lycée Français de Varsovie ul. Walecznych 4/6, tel. 22 616 5400, www.lfv.pl. French school admitting students from the age of two years old. All instruction is in French. Languages offered : Polish, English, German, Spanish, Latin. Also, a wide variety of after school activities (sport, arts, extracurricular instruction). Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@ warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

SHOPS Kid’s Academy Primary & Pre-School ul. Arbuzowa 33D (Wilanów), ul. Łąkowa 38 (Konstancin), tel. 501 205 080, www.kidsacademy.com.pl. A Private English - Polish School which provides an excellent early educational program for children from ages 2.5 - 5 years old and at the Primary School, from Grade 0. Combining elements of both the Polish and British curriculum, the focus

Bimbus ul. Wilcza 69, www.bimbus.com.pl. Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou. The products are adorable. Endo Multiple locations, www.endo.pl. Endo is

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the original home of quality children’s wear that embraced great design by Polish artists and accompanied it with Polish slogans. Much of the materials used are organic, hardwearing and wash well. A good address for baby basics and all closet essentials. Lullaby Multiple locations, www.lullaby.pl. Jam packed with funky design and quirky gifts for your little ones. However, the exquisite clothing and designer labels do come with a hefty price tag. Mimbla ul.Mokotowska 51/53, www.cudanakiju. pl. Exclusively for kids on Warsaw’s most exclusive shopping street it’s an Aladdin’s cave of quality toys and Polish/English books. Get your gift wrapped here and both mum and child will be happy even before opening it. Pieluszkarnia Multiple locations, www.pieluszkarnia.pl. This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and Martello blankets personalized for births etc. Smyk Multiple stores, www.smyk.pl. Smyk is Poland’s answer to Mothercare; from bottle sterilizing kits to pencil cases, early learning toys to Disney classics and a wide range of seasonal clothing, this store will take you from childbirth to high school!

The American School of Warsaw

Anniversary Gala Hilton Hotel 28.09.2013 19:00

A fun-filled evening of food, drinks, live entertainment, dancing, special guests, silent auction and various Visit www.aswarsaw.org to reserve tickets or to get more details on corporate sponsorship opportunities. Tickets may also be purchased in person at the ASW Act now to secure a premium corporate package for this highly anticipated event!

Celebrating 60 years of Excellence in Education

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BROUGHT TO YOU BY: HAIR à PORTER

Making the CUT

Finding the right hairdresser is a minefield – get it wrong and you’ll be wearing a bag on your head. Get it right, and you’ll feel a million bucks: which is where Hair à Porter come into play.

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hoosing the right haircut is important, but even more important is choosing the right hair salon. Finding the one right for you remains one of the big challenges when moving to Poland, one not helped by the sheer choice – every street, it seems, has a hair salon. Unfortunately, the feast of options is something of a red herring, with a large chunk of these hairdressers offering up staid styles in monolingual environments: you enter at your peril. To solve this conundrum I had settled on a crafty solution – either saving hairdresser visits for those occasional trips back to England, or just using the big high street chains. The results varied – there was never anything that caused people to flee with faces like The Scream, but neither was there anything that gave me either confidence or swagger. That was until I happened on Hair à Porter in the Hyatt. Actually no, I didn’t happen on it at all; located on Level -1, it’s not a salon you just stumble upon. But this lack of passing foot traffic has not been to their detriment. On the contrary, it’s thrived as an insider secret. Of course, it helps being named one of the top ten salons in the country by Ekspres magazine. The salon itself was smaller than I envisaged. I’m used to the anonymity of the high street hair factories, so to find something that’s so intimate was a relief for the senses. I was booked to be seen by Leszek, a charismatic local with a laidback confidence, pop star looks and crystal clear English. For the first time in Poland, there were no language stumbles, dithering or complex negotiations over the way I’d like to look. Neither was there that awkward moment where I’m

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handed an album of heart throbs and asked which haircut I want. I used to be called Boy Band Webber, now I look more like the Boy Who Ate the Band; being asked which footballer/TV star I want to imitate is humbling and humiliating. But none of that here – I was in Leszek’s hands, and Leszek knows best. And indeed he does. After 15 minutes of deft scissor work he was done and I looked like new. “Wow,” said my girlfriend when I toddled home, “you look really great.” Considering she’s usually telling me I look like a tramp this was praise indeed. Of course, I shouldn’t have expected anything less. Hair à Porter have built a strong expat following for several reasons. Each of their five stylists share a clear common passion for hair, displaying a creativity and verve not usually seen. Best of all, they’re keen to work in tandem with their clients to achieve the best results: through close communication their stylists achieve the perfect balance between what you expect and what actually works. “Your style, our way,” is their philosophy, and it’s one closely followed. Trained at the London Academy of Toni & Guy, the stylists have brought with them an expansive knowledge of the latest trends, with their work aided and abetted by creamof-the-crop products from Toni & Guy, TIGI and Kerastase. The good news though, that’s saved till last. Ex-pats receive a hefty 30% discount, while this summer they’ve also launched deals on Keratin (hair straightening) and Kebelo (smoothing) treatments. Hair à Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), Level -1 tel. 22 558 1555, hair-a-porter.pl


Reviews: Hotel Krasicki 81 / Plus:

* 2 updates

LIFESTYLE

ACCOMODATION 81 / COMMUNITY 83 / HEALTH & BEAUTY 82 / MEDICAL 83 / POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS 83

ACCOMODATION

Insider’s Pick

HOTELS IN WARSAW 5-star hotels H15 Boutique Apartments (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, www.h15boutiqueapartments.com.

Hilton Warsaw (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com. Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, towarsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. Hotel Krasicki Pl. Zamkowy 1/7, Lidzabark Warmiński, www.hotelkrasicki.pl. Rooms from zł. 336-900.

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hether it’s for a full-on holiday or just a stretched out weekend, a number of readers will be pointing their compass northwards this summer. It’s unlikely, however, many will be setting the town of Lidzbark Warmiński into their GPS. And in fairness, there’s good reason not to – generously shelled by the approaching Red Army, what survives of the Old Town is contained on a street. The endless alleys of Gdańsk or some backwater nothing? Gdańsk is going to win each time. But it shouldn’t, for Lidzbark has one very powerful magnet – one of the best hotels in Poland. Scooping the 2012 award for ‘Best Design’ in the European Hotel Awards, find the Krasicki occupying a space inside a red brick castle originally constructed for the benefit of the Bishops of Warmia. Completed sometime in the 15th century, its Gothic cloisters, cobbled courtyard and hulking body earned it the moniker of ‘the Wawel of the North’. It was in 2008 the decision was taken to breathe new life into this historic relic. That’s been done in considerable style, with the rotting hulk dramatically transformed into one of the best boutique deals in the CEE region. Linked by draw bridges, a swan filled river ribbons its way around the castle, announcing the start of a stay like no other. The designers eschewed the easy option of filling the place with suits of armor and hunting booty: instead, the lobby glints with black shiny colors – down the stairs, the basement passages unravel to lead guests past a state-of-the-art spa. Navigating a path to the rooms is not necessarily simple, but that’s half the fun – who doesn’t enjoy meandering round a castle? It’s worth the extra splurge and upgrading to a suite. Named after former lodgers (Napoleon included), these offer a careful balance between luxury and history. Having unpacked let the real exploration begin: first, to a tower-top library filled with ancient scrolls. In the evening, enjoy a romantic repast in the subterranean restaurant and from there, maybe a moonlit walk round the Old Town (correction: the Old Street), before cocktails in the castle club. (AW)

InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com. Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www.mamaison.com. Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com. The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, tel. 22 450 6100. Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888.

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LIFESTYLE FITNESS Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw.

HEALTH & BEAUTY

Holmes Place Premier ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), www.holmesplace.pl. Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland. Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. Their latest outpost in the Marriott also has a pool and has been updated accordingly to fit the HP quality check. For prices enquire direct.

RiverView Wellness Centre (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), www.riverview.com.pl. Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

THE BEST IS SOMETHING YOU DIDN’T KNOW EXISTED HAIRCOLOGY

The Ecological Hair Salon ul. Rozbrat 44A tel. 669 780 669 www.haircology.pl

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SPAS & SALONS

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Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, www.haircology.pl. An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

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Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00. A staunch favorite of the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing expert staff and top-quality products.

PFF offers a wide range of Polish courses for foreigners - individuals and groups. Professional and friendly tutors with effective teaching styles. Klub Dialogu Tel. 664 788 994, www.klubdialogu.pl. Individual and group courses held either onsite or at the venue of your choice. Tailor-made packages inc. both intensive and weekend courses.

COMMUNITY

Expatriates PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11. tel. + 48 792 887 350www.pff-warsaw.com e-mail: legal@pff-warsaw.comOffers services for foreigners coming to Poland, including obtaining residence and work permits, visas, setting up business activities as well as legal services and support for foreign investors and business entities. For more information call or write: +48 22 828 15 01; + 48 792 887 350, legal@pff-warsaw.co

Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 22 582 9474, 517 012 880, www.spasungate.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments as well as a VIP room for couples.

MEDICAL MEDICAL PRIVATE CLINICS

Lux Med Medical Clinics ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4); ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24hr hotline: 801 800 808, for mobile users: tel. 22 332 2888, www.luxmed.pl.

WARSAW

World Leader in Implantology and Dental Aesthetics

Malo Clinic (C4) MALO ONZ CLINIC is Central first clinic Rondo 1, Warsaw tel. 22 335 7755,Europe's www.maloclinof the world’s leader in Implantology and Dental ics.com/polska. This dental clinic Aesthetics, offering full world dental class care, and above all advanced dental implant surgery. incorporates five dental offices, an operating Located in a modern office complex Rondo 1 at Rondo ONZ, in the city centerand of Warsaw, the Clinic room, two recovery rooms a state-of-thebe easily accessed as it is located in only 10 artcan diagnostic center. minutes from Central Railway Station, 30 minutes from the F. Chopin International Airport, near bus, tram stops and subway station (Świętokrzyska Station). Entry into a secured car park in the Rondo 1 building – off Pańska street.

POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS

Services Available MALO CLINIC Warsaw provides the best specialists and the latest diagnostic equipment (including computer tomography), in the field of: (H4)

Akademia PFF ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11, tel. 792 887 350, www.pff-warsaw.com, email: academy@pff-warsaw.com. Akademia Dental Surgery Implantology Aesthetic Prosthetics

Conservative Dentistry Endodontics Orthodontics

MALO CLINIC Office complex Rondo 1 (+48) 22 335 77 55 Warsaw 1st floor in Building A warsaw@maloclinics.com Rondo ONZ 1 www.maloclinics.com/polska | www.maloclinics.com

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STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

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Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

Wa r sINSIDER a w I n s|i JULY d e r : 2013 0 1 – 3 1 M a r ch 2 0 1 1 WARSAW

Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2


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WHY WARSAW? and then these socialist estates. The architecture, the planning: I found that all so fascinating. Of course, there were low points. I’m loathe to say anything negative, but navigating the Byzantine bureaucratic labyrinth was trying. Also, back in Oregon we’re a pretty friendly people, you could say overly polite. That’s not to suggest the people are unfriendly here, but their mannerisms are definitely different. The Oregon Insider never happened, what are we missing… Oregon is unique – the western half is all giant trees, misty fern forests and the Sasquatch! Then on the eastern side, it’s desert. There’s a strong coffee culture as well, one that’s redefined coffee culture in the States, and we’re also very outdoorsy. We’re bicycle insane! Ah, yes, bikes. Tell us about cycling in PL… It’s a raw cycling culture, but it’s growing fast. I’d say it’s tripled in three years. You see people turning up in their thousands for Critical Mass, bike shops have diversified their offer, and the infrastructure has also grown. There is a lack of connectivity – cycle lanes just stop and start – but I guess that’s what you have to do to get a skeleton structure in place. Do you have any favorite routes? We love getting out in the countryside. Around here, I like the route to Czersk: it’s a fast ride, with almost completely empty roads, and there’s the castle at the end – we don’t have them in America! In Poland, I think the Euro Trail from Częstochowa to Kraków is our favorite – again, lots of castles are involved, and it’s probably the best marked route in Poland. By in large you’re passing through small towns, and the locals still greet visitors with a real sense of wonder.

An avid cyclist since childhood, Oregon-raised Tyler Robertson is the co-author of the newly released iBike Wawa guide. The Insider says hello... So, how did this Polish chapter of your life begin? My partner Carolyn is a human rights lawyer, and for a while we were living in the Netherlands for her work. We kept talking about coming over to visit as her grandparents were Polish immigrants, but it never really happened. Then her job moved her here three years back. What were those first few days like… I was absolutely enamored with the city. We live in New Town, so it was great exploring that area. Maybe you can’t call Warsaw visually beautiful, but it is visually fascinating: ‘the beauty of unbeauty’. You’ve got stereotypically quaint areas,

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WARSAW INSIDER | JULY 2013

How did the book come about? The idea didn’t come into our heads till we came here. We were finding a lot of info in Polish but it was contradictory, at times incomplete, and there’d be no continuity. Well I’m an avid photographer, while Carolyn is a fastidious note taker, so it was a combination of that. When she first suggested the idea for a book I was like, “No way!” but as we got to know Warsaw we realized it could work. Cycling – why the daft clothes? I don’t wear those! This is my opinion, not based on fact, but I feel the popularization of racing culture has acted as a disservice to the casual cyclist. If they’re not dressed in all the gear, people think they’re not doing it right. But casual cycling is a legitimate form of cycling, maybe even more so than racing. The only thing I wear which I never did before is a helmet! Warsaw drivers… any thoughts? That’s the only thing I can be negative about, and that doesn’t even come from a cyclist’s perspective! They’re unnecessarily aggressive, and I’ve no idea where that comes from. Slow down! Copies of iBike Wawa by Carolyn Bys and Tyler Robertson are available for €9. For details and download, check: twowheeltravelblog.com

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

WHEELS OF FORTUNE


PARMIZZANO’S – LITTLE ITALY IN WARSAW 45-minutowy lunch od poniedzia³ku do pi¹tku w godzinach 12:00-15:00 2 dania w cenie 55 PLN, 3 dania w cenie 65 PLN. Codziennie nowe menu. 45-minute lunch from Monday to Friday 12:00 AM-3:00 PM 2 courses at 55 PLN, 3 courses at 65 PLN. New menu everyday.

WARSAW MARRIOTT HOTEL Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 00-697 Warszawa Rezerwacje/Reservations: +48 22 630 5096 www.warsawmarriott.com, www.warsawmarriott.pl


Warsaw Insider July 2013 # 203  

Filled with news and views covering restaurants, bars, travel and local interest, the Warsaw Insider is officially recognized as Poland's nu...

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