Warsaw Insider April 2013 #200

our 200th issue!

Warsaw

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April 04 price zł.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

(200)

2013

(VAT 8% included)

to our readers

APRIL 2013

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO US!

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wo hundred issues have passed since the Insider first launched in the spring of 1996; but, looking around, you’d be forgiven for thinking it’s been 200 years. The Warsaw of today is a very different creature. Speaking to the veteran ex-pats, they paint a vivid picture of an alien world: bodies piling up in gangland wars; ‘hardship’ bonuses from work; and a country caught mid-bounce between a communist hangover and some mad, bastardized form of South American economics. By the same token, the majority look fondly at this era as the ex-pat heyday: a debauched, murky time defined by an ‘in it together’ spirit.

Warsaw, clearly, has come a long way. Once vilified by outsiders as some dark, dystopian horror, the capital has become a place of good news: in 2009, Lonely Planet announced it as one of the Top 10 cities in the world to visit; then, there was the summer success of Euro 2012, a tournament that catapulted Poland into tens of millions of living rooms. But those two examples represent just a fraction of the successes.

The calendar hasn’t clicked beyond the silly hat stage (at press time, anyway), yet already there’s been reason to celebrate. National Geographic have hailed Warsaw’s beaches alongside those of Cape Town and Sydney (yes, really!), on account of their green, wild spaces and Old Town views. More champagne corks popped with the publication of the 2013 Michelin Guide. In the shape of Atelier Amaro, the country now touts its first Michelin star. The good times, it appears, have only just begun. In a very short time, Warsaw has hatched into something quite incredible. Maybe not into a brilliantly feathered bird, but certainly an exotic one. For this reason, as part of our 200 celebrations, we’ve compiled a personalized list of the 200 places and people that make the city so special. Enjoy it.

on the cover We’ve picked 200 of Warsaw’s best, eccentric and most unique places as part of our birthday bash – find some of them on the cover, and the rest in our feature: check page 13 (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

SEEN THROUGH MISTS OF TIME

Searching through the vault, the Insider rolls back the years to unearth the best and the worst of our front cover art… (opposite page)

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com

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WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2013

Spring 1996

Summer 1996

October, 1998

April, 1999

December, 1999

June, 2000

August, 2000

December, 2000

February, 2001

May, 2001

February, 2002

March, 2002

June, 2002

July, 2002

October, 2002

November, 2002

September, 2003

October, 2003

June, 2004

July, 2004

November, 2004

November, 2005

December, 2005

April, 2006

September, 2007

December, 2007

May, 2008

September, 2008

October, 2010

November, 2010

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what’s inside

APRIL 2013

LISTINGS

Culture

Restaurants

Cafes & Wine Bars

07 Opener Interview: Peter Hook 08 Calendar Music, art and events around town 10 Museums

Listings and

Insider’s Pick 27 Insider’s Pick Porto Praga 42 Luncheonettes

Po Prostu Zachęta

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FEATURE

For our 200th edition the Insider lifts the lid on the things we love about Warsaw living: the quirks and the oddities. Included in that roll-call are the Praga bears (No. 81), not to mention the charming deference to the little green man (No. 100).

51 Insider’s Pick

Traffic Cafe

Nightlife

57 Insider’s Pick

Sztuki & Sztuczki

Shopping

63 Insider’s Pick

Victoria’s Secret

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Children

Lifestyle

67 Insider’s Pick

Mama Lama 71 Insider’s Pick

Yonelle - Zwolińska

Beauty Institute

Editor-in-chief

Art Director

Editor

Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com David Ingham dingham@valkea.com Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Agata Torańska atoranska@valkea.com Justyna Gagacka jgagacka@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Kit F. Chung Karolina Kalinowska Agnieszka Le Nart Michał Miszkurka Paula Rewald Ed Wight

Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through insider@ warsawinsider.pl

Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS tel. 022 783-6000

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2013 Warsaw Insider.

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WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2013

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

76 Street Index 77 Classifieds 78 Warsaw Map

MONCLER RALPH LAUREN TOD’S SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

tel. +48 226221416, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Interview: Peter Hook 7 Preview: Museum of the History of Polish Jews 11

CULTURE EVENTS 8 / MUSEUMS 10

Interview: Peter Hook

moved to another bigger venue, which is always nice to hear. But when we got there we were really surprised because Palladium was great and packed out. And I couldn’t believe the range of people there: there were people who looked about sixteen, then there were others who looked even older than I am.

PHOTOGRAPH OF PETER HOOK BY ERIC SWALENS. ALL OTHER PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

Did you ever go on tour behind the Iron Curtain in the communist days?

It’s a strange one really because we have always known there is a big fan base in that area, but it’s not a place we ever went to for obvious reasons. Even as New Order we never really visited this region properly. I’d like to think we’re making up for that now.

Are you surprised with how well Peter Hook and the Lights is going down with fans?

The whole thing was only ever supposed to be one show back in May 2011 at my club, The Factory, in Manchester, to celebrate Ian’s (Ian Curtis of Joy Division) life on the 30th anniversary of his death. That one show sold out very quickly and became two shows and we’ve since been invited to play all around the world. We’ve been to Australia, New Zealand, Brazil, Mexico and all over Europe.

Off The Hook Best known as a founding member

of Joy Division and New Order, the Insider caught up with Peter ‘Hooky’ Hook during his March appearance in Warsaw.

BY DAVID INGHAM

WI: Joy Division were originally called Warsaw. What’s the story?

PH: Well, at first the band was called the Stiff Kittens, but that was very early on in our career when we hadn’t really done anything of note. We changed our name to Warsaw as we thought it sounded cool, and it was under that name that we recorded a lot of early material which was very punky. We actually changed our name to Joy Division initially because at the time there was another band called The Warsaw Pact who were bigger than we were – whenever we tried to get gigs the person

on the other end of the phone would just say, “Oh you’re not The Warsaw Pact?,” then they wouldn’t book us!

This is your second visit to Warsaw in the last 12 months, what do you make of it?

Warsaw is a fantastic city, I will always hold good memories of playing here. Our gig in Warsaw last year was amazing. My God, what an audience they were, it really blew us away.

We were initially booked to play at a smaller venue called Proxima, but a few weeks before our management told us we were being

Will we ever see the original New Order lineup back together?

I really don’t think the original New Order lineup will ever play together again. It’s a great shame but that’s just the way it is now, unfortunately. We are fighting each other through our lawyers at the moment. It’s sad and frustrating but they won’t negotiate with me so it looks like it will not be ending anytime soon. Of course, I miss playing in New Order, but I’m having the best time I’ve ever had on tour with my band now, so it’s all worked out in the end.

Do you have plans to do any New Order albums live?

Yes definitely. We played our New Order set for the first time at three gigs in the UK recently. We played both the Movement and Power, Corruption & Lies albums in full as well as all of the cool singles and B-sides from that period. We are planning on taking that show on tour later this year and hopefully we will make it to Warsaw.

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CULTURE 1

CONCERT Calisia Jazz Monday’s Żurawina. ul. Żurawia 32.

Described by organizers as “Michael Buble meets Norah Jones in a Jools Holland style setting”, this weekly event sees the cream of the local jazz talent, as well as some internationally renowned artists, gathering to play live music. Set in the cool, minimalist setting of this city center wine bar, the surroundings offer the perfect environment for some modern jazz.

Entrance to the event is free.

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CONCERT Dragonette 1500m2, ul. Solec 18.

Electronic band Dragonette have been a big hit in recent years in both their native Canada and the neighboring US. Currently promoting their third album, Body Parts, the band are known for catchy pop riffs alongside harder beats. Tickets priced from zł. 30, available from ticketpro.pl

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MATCH Warsaw Eagles Polonia Stadium Warsaw’s premier gridiron team take on the Wrocław Devils at their new home at Polonia Warszawa’s stadium. If you like bit hits, cheerleaders and all the razzamatazz of sports state side then this one could be for you.

Tickets from zł. 60, available from eventim.pl

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OPERA Lady Sarashina Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny.

Peter Eötvö’s one part opera is based on Chekhov’s book Three Sisters. Since it was first performed back in 1998 the opera has received rave reviews as one of the best modern compositions in a genre that

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many felt was on its last legs.

This version has been created in cooperation with the Opéra National de Lyon, and stars Anu Komsi as Lady Sarashina.

the book Don Quixote by Miguel De Cervantes. Tickets from zł. 25 available from ticketpro.pl

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CONCERT Steve Lukather Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10.

American rock guitarist Steve Lukather has performed with the great and the good of the musical world, collaborating with the likes of Alice Cooper, Aretha Franklin, Eric Clapton, Joni Mitchell, Kiss, and the late Michael Jackson, as the ‘go to’ man in rock for some great guitar work.

Expect some classic covers as well as plenty of extended solos at this April show. Tickets from zl.

90, available from ticketpro.pl

MUSICAL Chopin Must Die Palladium, ul. Złota 9.

Poland’s most famous musical export, the late, great Frederyk Chopin, is the central theme for this comedy/musical extravaganza. Taking some of the true life events of the famed pianist’s life this new show aims to uncover the artist’s legacy in an all singing and all dancing night of entertainment. Tickets from zł. 137, available from eventim.pl

CONCERT The 12 Tenors Sala Kongresowa (PKiN), Pl. Defilad 1.

This group of outstanding male singers perform at the same time on stage with their range covering songs by Michael Jackson and Queen, as well as opera classics such as Nessun Dorma.

Tickets from zł. 60 available from ticketpro.pl

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CONCERT Ellie Goulding Klub Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10.

Formally part of a burgeoning power couple together with producer Skrillex, this criticallyacclaimed singer-songwriter first found fame in 2010 with her debut long play release Lights. Since then singles such as Anything Could Happen have made here a bona fide star on both sides of the Atlantic. Her Warsaw show is sold out but tickets may be available online.

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CONCERT

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FESTIVAL Beer Fest Klub Muzyczny Progresja, ul. Kaliskiego 15A. This annual one day beer festival, organized in conjunction with Warsaw Technology University, will involve a live gig from Polish band Akurat as well as plenty of cheap beer options.

Tickets from zł. 20, available from eventim.pl

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CONCERT A Hawk and a Hacksaw Pardon To Tu, Pl. Grzybowski 12/16.

Hailing from Albuquerque this talented duo consist of accordionist Jeremy Barnes and violinist Heather Trost. Heavily influenced by Eastern European and Balkan traditional music their band name is a reference to

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2013

Imany Sala Ziemia, ul. Głogowska 14.

Imany’s distinctive transatlantic voice and Afro-soul sound first came to mainstream attention with her debut 2011 release The Shape of a Broken Heart. She returns to the capital this month following the success of her debut Polish gig last November.

Tickets from zł. 120, available from eventim.pl

CONCERT Marina and the Diamonds Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10.

Welsh songstress Marina Lambrini Diamandis is known for quirky pop songs that have helped score massive success across Europe and in the US. Her most recent album, 2012’s Electra Heart, went straight in at number one in the UK charts and included the hit song Primadonna.

Originally slated to appear in February, Marina will finally perform in Stodoła in April.

MARKET Urban Market vol.4 1500m2, ul. Solec 18.

Now on its fourth edition the Urban Market is fast becoming a ‘must go to’ event. This time round the space will be divided into six distinct sections. There’ll be food, cooking workshops, kitchen design, a kids’ area, cinema and clothes stores.

For more information check for updates on their Facebook page

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CONCERT Warsaw Blues Night Klub Hybrydy, ul. Złota 7/9.

This is one for the blues fans among you, with Tennessee-born

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF ARTISTS OR ORGANIZERS

EVENTS THIS MONTH

guitarist Arthur Adams the standout performer at this night of music. The 69 year old has played with the likes of B. B. King, Chuck Berry, and Elmore James in a distinguished career which has seen him release eight albums.

Tickets from zł. 40, available from eventim.pl

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CONCERT Kaas Sings Piaf Sala Kongresowa (PKiN), Pl. Defilad 1.

This year marks the 50th anniversary of the death of French singer Edith Piaf. To mark the occasion fellow French singer Patricia Kaas has produced an album of Piaf’s greatest hits, which will form the repertoire for this evening of entertainment. Tickets from zł.

150, available from eventim.pl

CONCERT The Deep Dark Woods

Hydrozagadka, ul. 11 Listopada 22.

Canadian alternative country band The Deep Dark Woods come to Warsaw as part of their European tour. Their most recent single, My Baby’s Got to Pay the Rent, featured in the movie Safe Haven, which was directed by Lasse Hallstrom. Tickets from zl.

35, available from eventim.pl

Media Patronage

Hunger

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CONCERT Sarah Blasko Klub Hybrydy, ul. Złota 7/9.

Australian singer-songwriter Sarah Blasko first entered the music business fronting Sydney band Acquiesce. In 2002 she went solo and has subsequently gone on to be one of the top music stars back home. She’s currently promoting her latest album I Awake which was released in November 2012. Tickets from zł.

100, available from eventim.pl

Lex is More. Lex Drewinski Ongoing from April 15 Museum of Caricature and Cartoon Art in Warsaw, ul. Kozia 11

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he work of the internationally renowned and award winning graphic designer Lex Drewinski goes on display at Warsaw’s Caricature Museum this spring. This new exhibition will contain the best of his work since 1984, with Drewinski himself describing his posters as “...like a good joke, the less they’re narrated, the longer they stay in the memory.” With his own unique style the Szczecin-born designer has tackled hard hitting topics such as hunger, fascism, violence, racism and poverty with his own sly brand of humor for the best part of 30 years.

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From

PLN *

ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFIC, GET THE OPEN ROAD AND EXPLORE POLAND WITH WEEKEND CAR RENTAL OFFER. Contact: +48 22 672 65 65 www.avis.pl * net price per day, min.3 days required.

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CULTURE MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel.

22 758 5067, www.muzuemmotorzyacji.com.pl. Approx. 300 vehicles all jumbled together like a broken jigsaw. Highlights include the ’79 Pope Mobile, Stalin’s limo and cars used to ferry Marilyn and Elvis. Other bits and pieces inc. vintage motors, a double decker bus and a US tractor from 1895. Mapped out with little rhyme or reason, it’s a hoarders heaven, with extra oddities numbering WWII debris, a 7TP tank, a red English phone box and a plane...

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www. kopernik.org.pl. If you thought the Chopin Museum was space age then just wait till you visit this place. Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art. pl. Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Annie Leibovitz, Yoko Ono, Wilhelm Sasnal, Andy Warhol). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals.

Ongoing until June 9: Mikołaj Smoczyński. What Outsiders Can Tell Us About Reality. A retrospective on the late artist who died back in 2009. It explores his work from the 1980s and 1990s and highlights his multifaceted creativity.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl.

A huge Insider favorite, the History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer

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than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion – not least for the fab bookshop. While most titles are Polish language, there’s some fantastic photo books dealing with Warsaw’s past.

Ongoing until April 30: Henry N. Cobb’s photographs of Poland in post-war ruin.

Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.mhw.pl.

The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film titled We Will Remember, it details the powerful story behind the destruction of Warsaw.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, www.chopin.museum. pl. Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Galeria Le Guern ul. Widok 8, www.leguern. pl. First established in 2004, this art gallery focuses on presenting work from both the Polish and international contemporary art scene. It includes exhibitions from famous names as well as less known up-and-coming artists.

Ongoing until April 24: Tomorrow Will Be Better.

This photograph exhibition highlights the early 1990s in Poland, the first years after the end of Communism, through the images of legendary photographer Tadeusz Rolke.

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2013

Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113a, www. krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl. Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum.

The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. Ongoing until April 21: Piotr Wysocki. Praktyki.

This video installation, which fills the ground floor of the gallery, is made up of footage of action from the films of Polish director Piotr Wysocki. It includes film of a sexual minorities football match in Kraków and the confrontation between police and parkour enthusiasts in Radom.

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia. com. Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum. pl. The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Miroslaw Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl. Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

Ongoing: Four Times World.

Konstanty Jarochowski, Jan Kosidowski, Wiesław Prażuch, Władysław Sławny. This photo

exhibition will be the first of its kind to present images created between 1951-1969 for the Polish weekly “Świat.” From March 9: Beyond the Great Wall. The largest exhibition of Chinese art every put on display at the National Museum in Warsaw.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www.neonmuzeum.org. A complete departure from the stuff museums in Poland are famed for, this long awaited project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 50 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw. pl. An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26. What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Of interest, a brilliant interactive display of wartime Warsaw.

Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www.postermuseum.pl.

With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original.

Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority

is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol. Ongoing until May 12: Great Theatre of the World. Spanning the period from 1945-2012 the posters on display give an insight in to the changing face of theatre promotion in the year’s after WWII. Ongoing until May 12: From Aida to the Bat. The first ever exhibition of opera posters from home and abroad!

The exhibition spans the years from 1945 to 2012.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, www.muzeum-techniki.waw. pl. The very opposite of the new-fangled Copernicus Centre,

here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine.

Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944. pl. Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising. Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw.

Outside, check the Nazi bunker

Insider Preview

The Museum of the History of Polish Jews

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his month, the public gets a peek at the formidable new Museum of the History of Polish Jews, 18 years in the making and eight years since the historic signing of agreements brought together the first public/private enterprise for a cultural institution in Poland. Not so much an opening per se, the building in Muranów, which invokes the parting of the Red Sea by Moses, will become available for viewing as this new cultural hot spot accelerates its programs and events schedule.

The Museum is slated to open in the first half of 2014. With the exception of the remarkable Gwoździec synagogue roof replica which was raised in March, the core exhibition of MHPJ is still waiting for final building approval to be installed. It will contain eight large permanent galleries which will chronicle Polish Jews from their first arrival, fleeing the Crusaders in the 10th century, to modern times. While it is not a Holocaust museum, it will not shirk

behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk.

Zachęta National Art Gallery (Zachęta Narodowa Galeria Sztuki) Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www. zacheta.art.pl.One of the most famed galleries in the country, with a plethora of international and Polish modern art to peruse.

Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera.

Ongoing until May 19: The Splendor of Textiles. This exhibition presents artistic textiles in the wider context of contemporary art.

NEED TO KNOW Museum hours (and prices) change way too frequently for our liking, so check indiviudal websites for the latest story.

Note that many of these addresses close one day per week (usually Monday or Tuesday), and that an equal amount hold ‘visitor’ days once a week when admission prices are waived.

from exploring the profound influence of the Nazi German invasion on modern Poland.

On April 19th, the 70th Anniversary of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising will be commemorated by dignitaries and Museum donors from around the world gathering at the Ghetto Monument, located on the square beside the Museum. A performance by Sinfonia Varsovia under the baton of Krzysztof Penderecki will premiere the Museum’s Concert Hall. The official part then kicks off a month of activities open to the public. In the first weekend, events will range from the opening of the movie Kazik the Invincible by Agnieszka Arnold and a jazz performance by the Bund Band of revolutionary songs in tribute to Marek Edelman, one of the more prominent leaders of the uprising, to a Critical Mass Bicycle Ride along the borders of the ghetto on Sunday, April 21.

Gone are the days of passivity in historical museums. MHPJ is a place of fresh ideas and new exhibition dynamics, which inspire exploration into the fretwork of Jewish life on Polish society. The vast majority of museum attendees, to any museum, only visit once. For these guests, the Museum attempts to impact upon the visitor the vast meshing of 1,000 years of Jewish literature, art, social custom and culture with Polish gentile culture and the post-WWII vacuum that still remains. But for those who return, the Museum specifically promises layer upon layer of discovery, through their unabashed use of the most modern technologies available and the commitment to providing diverse tools of exploration. For MHPJ, a tool can be hand puppets for 5 year olds, vast computerized genealogical records, theaters for music and films, or apps for your smartphone (check out My Warsaw to help you walk the neighborhood as it once was).

Everyone is cordially invited to come and discover. (PR) For more information on events for the 70th Commemoration of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising visit: www.getto.waw.pl See www.jewishmuseum.org.pl/en for detailed information on museum hours and programs.

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Tying in with our 200th outing, the Insider looks at the places, the people, the venues and events that make Warsaw special: the weird, the wacky and the simply supreme. With no further delay, and in no order whatsoever, he’s our Top 200.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK. ALL OTHER BY KEVIN DEMARIA

TOP200

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THE LONG WEEKEND Warsaw is like boarding school – come the holidays, it empties at the drop of the hat. Avoid temptation to follow the exodus, and instead, wallow in the surreal, dreamlike vision of a capital on pause: Warsaw’s at its best in this ghost town phase.

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ALIEN INVASION You’d expect to see Cosmo Golem after a night eating mushrooms – but put them away. Instead, head to Pole Mokotowskie to admire a bizarre wooden statue of this alien-like beast. Erected in 2009, kids are encouraged to write down their wishes and post them inside him.

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THE GAZA STRIP Not long back Poznańska was an unlit street of dark monster houses and stained looking courtyards. Now revived, it’s become the place for indy-run cafes and bars, among them Tel Aviv and Beirut – which is why you’ll find locals calling this narrow cobbled road The Gaza Strip.

fly kites and hug the sculptures,” or so declares the signage at the front of Królikarnia (Puławska 113A). Some outdoor installations make sense, others do not: e.g. a tree dangling with kettles, cheese grinders and coke cans. The palace, a former ‘royal brothel’, houses further treats to decipher.

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W HOUR At 5 p.m., every August 1st, Warsaw comes to a standstill to remember W Hour – the start of the 1944 Uprising. It’s a deeply poignant moment: and one that went viral in 2012 with the release of a YouTube vid titled There is a City. Watch it.

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GOING UNDERGROUND Tours of the Filtry Waterworks (www.mpwik.com.pl) are conducted each summer – don’t miss the opportunity. The highlight is the original 19th century subterranean chambers: vaulted ceilings cast a shimmery reflection on the water, while crushing silence prompts a hypnagogic effect.

It’s all very Alice in Wonderland…

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THE SECRET GARDEN Known in expat parlance as ‘the Secret Garden’, the pavilion pubs behind Nowy Świat 22 (pawilony. org) promise a unique drinking experience. Like stepping into some parallel universe, the dense tangle of dimmed, divey bars has an enthusiastic element of studenty chaos. You won’t remember a thing.

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HIPSTERS With a breeding rate higher than rats, Warsaw has become a city of hipsters – eschewing normal behavior, find these creatures decorating themselves in fashions usually favored by nerds, children and Justin Bieber. Recent migratory patterns have seen them shift from pl. Zbawiciela to Powiśle, though in truth, nowhere is safe.

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LOCAL LEGEND Step aside for Czarny Roman: black hat, black suit, and polished black shoes. Commonly found marching down Nowy Świat (bellowing about impending meteorites, yoga and immortality), he’s a Warsaw legend that poses more questions than answers: a true enigma and street life celebrity.

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WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2013

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MICHELIN MAN Ordained with Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier Amaro (atelieramaro.pl) should be the one restaurant to make your bucket list. Don’t bring a date – conversation gets in the way of the extraordinary food.

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NO-MAN’S LAND The largely abandoned SKRA Stadium (Wawelska 5) is a remarkable urban phantom – you’ll feel like Robinson Crusoe as you scramble over the smashed, rotting benches.

Out in the car park, a monument recalls 22 US boxers killed in a 1980 plane crash at Okęcie.

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THE WARSAW ANTHEM A classic 60s anthem, few Polish songs have stood the test of time like Sen o Warszawie. Penned

by Czesław Niemen, the Polish Dylan, this deeply emotive ditty still gets plenty of airtime – not least when it’s lustily sung prior to Legia home games.

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EXPERI-MENTAL ART “It is allowed to read books,

GARGAMEL’S CASTLE Competition is fierce, but there’s only one winner when it comes to Warsaw’s worst building.

Step forward Gargamel’s Castle (a.k.a Czarny Kot Hotel, ul. Okopowa 65), a Disney-esque nightmare of turrets and towers. Even the local building inspectorate (not known for their discerning eye) want this absurdist eyesore nuked into nothing.

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BACK TO BLACK Once labeled Warsaw’s most dangerous street, it’s worth running the gauntlet of bandit kids to take a look at Brzeska 17A. Dusty and dilapidated, this rundown art studio is noteworthy for the owner’s fixation with Amy Winehouse. His statuettes of the songstress make you go “woah”.

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CHECK CECH Occupying the basement of 1500m2 (ul. Solec 18), Cech offers the chance to assemble your own bike – or, rather, bring pieces that you’d like to have used for the bike of your dreams. Employ random elements to build a hybrid machine straight out of Mad Max.

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FIRE AND WATER Squeezed between the Old Town and the river, a jazzy looking fountain park amuses each night (from May 3rd onwards) with choreographed water displays that draw thousands of onlookers.

The spectacle is complimented by synchronized audio backup as well as laser and visual displays.

this imposing fortress (Skazańców 25) is made doubly-spooky by the circling presence of thousands of ravens who arrive as the sun sets: in spite of the lack of swinging bodies to peck at.

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SWISS VALLEY Shrunk to its current size after the war, Dolina Szwajczarska (Swiss Valley) is now a charming oasis of sunken gardens and winding paths (and a pair of podgy cherubs wrestling with turtles and crocs).

THE THAW Of course there’s better times to visit, but nothing says “Warsaw” more than the thaw. Taped-off pavements, crashing icicles, melted gunk and minefields of dog do; the streets look gross and grisly – but we love it!

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DOS & DONUTS The locals love donuts, and you’ll find the best in grotty little relics leftover from communism. Places like Żelazna 64, where matronly ladies take a break from gossiping to parcel your donuts in string-tied wax paper bags.

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SUMMER SUNDAY SOUNDS There’s lots to love about Dreszera Park: for starters, there’s cute, canopied Zielnik café, and a sign forbidding explosives (!!). Utilized as a cemetery after the Uprising, today the park is best known for open air jazz on summer weekends.

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VINYL LOVE With no more than 70cm between the window and the shelves, you bet it’s a tight squeeze. But Hey Joe! (ul. Złota 8), is a vinyl store like no other, with an engaging owner and all manner of rare finds. A very personal experience.

ANTIQUE BOOKS Something of an old curiosity shop, Kwadryga (Wilcza 29) is a magnet for bibliophiles. Hidden in a courtyard basement, the antique collection includes thousands of dusty books, maps, posters and faded photos. The 60s Polish lifestyle magazines are a hoot.

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TAKE ONE FOR THE TEAM Some people like glory hunting, others like supporting real football teams. If you’re in the latter camp then a visit to Polonia is in order. The perennial underdog is famed for its more ‘educated’ followers, many of whom were at the forefront in the fight against communism.

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GOLDEN OLDIES Too right the past is a foreign country. See for yourself at Mozaika (Puławska 53), a onetime luxury restaurant from the communist times.

Splash yourself in Old Spice and head down on Saturday to jiggle at old school-style 60s/70s dance nights.

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SUNDAY REPAST Forget you’re eating food that, for the most part, has been sitting under lamps for half a day. For the defining ex-pat experience book yourself brunch in one of the many five stars. Quality varies, but little else beats rambling conversation over a four hour feast.

DRUMS PLEASE In a city not short of ‘characters’, this guy definitely sits near the top of the tree in terms of fame.

Found just outside Centrum metro station, spot him in all weathers lost in concentration while banging continuously on an upturned chair.

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IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF GREATNESS Named in honor of Poland’s only officially sanctioned foreign correspondent during communism, the Kapuściński Trail follows the route this best-selling author used to take to work. Along the way, find quotes from Ryszard Kapuściński’s books, and examples of his photography.

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PEOPLE WATCHING Nowhere offers better people watching opportunities than the central thoroughfare that is Nowy Świat. Bask on one of the café terraces, and watch the good, the bad and the beautiful roll by, behind darkened sunglasses.

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VODKA WITH THE LOCALS A Warsaw institution, Przekąski Zakąski (Krakowskie Przedmieście 13) provides all you need from a 24hr joint: sullen servers, herring & sausages and plentiful vodka. It’s a microcosm of Warsaw, with all ages and backgrounds represented.

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THE BURNING RAINBOW This art installation is guaranteed to put a smile on most people’s faces: except those who’ve previously drunkenly set fire to its 16,000 fake flowers (three times and counting). Still singed and scorched from the last incident, the rainbow is here to stay.

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THE CITADEL Once a barracks and a prison built on the orders of Tsar Nicholas I,

ACCORDION HERO A musical genius no-less, this street busker, usually found close to Dworzec Centralna, shuns traditional Romani fare to fire out classics like Metallica’s Nothing Else Matters from his worn and weary accordion. Give him a tenner!

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YOU’RE NOT COMING IN Warsaw’s clubs guard their doorways with zeal. Attitudes have thawed since the noughties (“Sorry, you’re too ugly” being a favorite line of the deservedly defunct Cinnamon), but don’t think you’re getting past the demi-gods on duty without a panda fur handbag. Death to peasants! facebook.com/warsawinsider

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NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM Held in May, the annual Night of the Museums sees Warsaw’s cultural institutions throw their doors open for a night, chuck on a load of events and let everyone in for free.

The queues are ridiculous but the experience is magical.

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POD BEDS Backpacking gets conscientious at the Wilson (wilsonhostel.pl), an eco-friendly place replete with Free Tibet flags and solar panels. Weird capsule-style beds – the like of which you see in Japanese train stations – are found upstairs.

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UP & AWAY It wouldn’t impress Richard Branson, but the Insider loves the hot air balloon anchored by the national stadium (stacjabalon.pl). Rising 120 meters into the sky, the balloon stays there for 15 mins, affording champion views of the little people below.

novices and lycra-clad experts for the Critical Mass bike ride, and revel in the disruption. The meet starts out from pl. Zamkowy on the last Friday of each month (6 p.m.), before snaking across various major roads.

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SING WHEN YOU’RE WINNING In terms of domestic silverware, local football side Legia Warszawa have won it all. View some of it yourself at the Legia museum (Łazienkowska 6A), alongside pennants, boots, bits of the old stadium and the pipe once puffed by manager Ryszard Koncewicz.

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RISE ABOVE IT Hotel pools are often an afterthought – stuck down a basement, or past a secret staff shag den.

Not so in the InterContinental. Enjoy thumping views of Warsaw from the highest pool in Europe. To access this 40th floor pearl, book a night or join the RiverView gym (www.riverview. com.pl).

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TOYS FOR BOYS Chock full of swords, guns and uniforms (including the winged armor of the Polish Hussars), the Polish Army Museum (Jerozolimskie 3) is a military themed Aladdin’s Cave. Wander the park outside amongst planes, tanks and other bad ass hardware – we defy you not to enjoy it.

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HORSES FOR COURSES A great option for hardened punters and newcomers alike, the immaculately maintained Służewiec horse racing track (Puławska 266) offers the cheapest entry prices in Europe (zł.5) and a scintillating art deco setting that’s slated for restoration. It’s a hilarious day out.

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TALK TO GOD Like an oligarch’s home, the neoclassical St. Anne’s Church (Krakowskie Przedmieście 68) is as ostentatious as they come. With lots of gold leaf and giant chandeliers, it’s a real temple of typical Catholic bling. The attached viewing tower is worth the 147 step pant.

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OFFICE WAR You’ve heard of the Paris PostIt Note War, right? You know, when office bots amused themselves by covering their windows in elaborate Post-It note mosaics depicting weird and wacky scenes. For the tameddown Warsaw version, look up the Zebra Tower (Mokotowska 1).

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UNDERGROUND SOUNDS Music is a deadly serious affair in Pardon To Tu (Pl. Grzybowski 12/16), a covert looking bar with cult vinyl covers strapped to the walls. A diverse and experimental gig policy attracts a cerebral crowd, making PTT the king of its genre.

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A ROOM WITH A VIEW Marta Gessler’s Qchnia Artystyczna (Jazdów 2) restaurant has, arguably, the best outdoor terrace in Warsaw. There can be few better places to eat fine food while watching the sun going down across the fountains below – it’s wedding proposal stuff.

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ON YOUR BIKE Cyclists lead a charmed life here, so take safety numbers: join

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WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2013

A TIGHT FIT “I saw the gap and just thought it needed filling.” So says Jakub Szczęsny, the architect behind the world’s skinniest house on Chłodna 22. Slipped inside a 60 inch gap, the steel-framed construction is occasionally open for public viewings.

Check: domkareta.pl.

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STREETS OF BLOOD You’re not going to believe this one – found on the stairwell of the Earth Museum (al. Skarpie 20/26), is a dried pool of blood dated from the Uprising. As mementos of the rebellion go, it’s both unsung and unsettling.

TRAVEL IN TIME Seen from the swooping perspective of a Liberator plane, City of Ruins in the Uprising Museum is a 3D film depicting smoldering Warsaw.

No matter how many times you watch it, this hard hitting CGI reconstruction leaves you lost for words.

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LADIES FIRST The Polish people are a chivalrous bunch. Whether its opening doors or surrendering seats, outbreaks of public courtesy are numerous and expected – you will not be thanked. Note: these endearing traits do not apply if you’re driving – then, it’s every man for himself.

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DESIGN FOR LIFE Heavy hints of retro kitsch mark Reset (Puławska 48) as one of Warsaw’s quirkiest design stores – who wouldn’t want a German record

player that doubles as a chest of drawers? More contemporary pieces from upcoming names balance out the quite exceptional offer.

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MOWISZ PO POLSKI? Escape the boredom of the classroom by enrolling on a Polish course with a difference: it’s in a squat. Yep, the zany surrounds of the Syrena squat on Wilcza 31 are your seat of learning. Contact: syrenawarszawa@gmail.com.

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ROOM FOR AN AMBASSADOR Italian designed furnishings – yes.

A 110 year old French fussball table – check. A 240 sq/m penthouse apartment – gottit. H15 (www. h15boutiqueapartments.com) cannot be compared to any other hotel in the country. That it’s also the former Soviet Embassy (complete with socialist friezes) adds to appeal.

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GLOW IN THE DARK BASKET Resembling a giant wicker basket, the new National Stadium (stadionarodowy.org.pl) is one of the wonders of Warsaw. Holding 58,000, the arena is half a billion euros well spent, and looks even better at night – lit up in Poland’s colors, you’d think it was visible from space.

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BRAVE NEW WORLD “A stone wedding cake covered with balconies built of boulders,” is how one critic described pl.

Konstyctucji. Defined by its bombastic Stalinist swagger, this monumental square has glorious reliefs of socialist heroes: miners, teachers, soldiers, all united in utopian happiness.

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ONE FOR THE BUM Maintenance work on the swaying rubber form of Pan Guma is over, and Paweł Althamer’s statue of this iconic local bum is due to return to its rightful perch in April – outside the deceased Mr Guma’s favorite bottle shop on the corner of Stalowa and Czynszowa. RIP.

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SCI-FI COCKTAILS Cocktail culture remains in its infancy in Warsaw. Pies Czy Suka (Szpitalna 8A), however, are a sunbeam of hope. Cocktails get the molecular treatment here, with the mixologists involving all manner of

futuristic effects – heavens above, you may even end up eating your drink.

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THROUGH THE EYES OF A LOCAL For a tour with a twist look no further than Adventure Warsaw (adventurewarsaw.com). Hold on for dear life as you screech around town in an old commie banger (e.g. a militia meat wagon), while charismatic guides reveal the secrets of the city. Vodka stops included!

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THE FORGOTTEN SQUARE Originally established by an 18th century nobleman who named it after his wife, Maria, pastel colored Mariensztat is reminiscent of a beautiful Italian square. Rebuilt to a socialist realist blueprint, quirky communist elements exist in the form of scraggy statues and murals.

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WELCOME TO VALHALLA Set to the side of Żoliborz, the Jomsborg Village is something you didn’t expect – an open-air skansen that celebrates all things Viking: that means sword fights, archery tournaments and other Iron Man activities. Reopening ‘soonish’, so check: www.wioskawikingow.pl.

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A SHOT AWAY The Kotłownia restaurant (Suzina 8) isn’t only known for its cracking cuisine. It’s outside this former boiler house the first shots of the Warsaw Uprising were fired.

Stopped by a German patrol, a group of insurgents emptied their guns at the Germans, thereby marking the first action of the rebellion.

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GET THE BEERS IN Forget the poisonous influence of the big brand beers, and instead see the real face of Polish brewing: do so at Małe Piwo (Oleandrów 4), a fashionably frayed bar whose collection of cult local lagers is second-to-none.

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A HOUSE OF HISTORY Focused on the 20th century of Central Eastern Europe (and, in particular, Warsaw), Dom Spotkań z Historią (dsh.waw.pl) is something rather special. Compelling photo exhibitions are matched by an equally engaging bookstore.

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GOTHAM CITY Ever since the departure of communism, the Palace of Culture (Pl. Defilad 1) has been an elephant in Warsaw’s living room – at one stage, plans to knock it down were discussed by anti-communists. You’ll be glad they didn’t with the views from the 30th floor terrace.

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UP IN LIGHTS Long before modern capitalism, dreary Cold War Warsaw was illuminated by scores of kitsch neon signs. Many have ended up in the Neon Muzeum (neonmuzeum.org), a cemetery of 50 signs and 500 letter forms – many of which will be familiar to longer term expats.

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LOOKING FLUSH No longer are the once Stygian train station toilets the habitat of rent boys and junkies. Blessed with a 2011 revamp from Dutch firm 2theloo, Centralna’s facilities now feature stunning floor-to-ceiling imagery of bookshelves and puppies.

In fact, they were deemed so futuristic the story went international.

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THE RED PIG Remember all those laughs under communism? Relive them in Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem (expat dictionary: The Red Pig), a cheery restaurant (Żelazna 68) themed round the bad days. Choose from a chuckleworthy menu before dining under political portraits and red banners and sashes.

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NO STAFF NEEDED Whether it’s coin-operated ticket boxes or book vending contraptions, one thing is clear: the machines are taking over. But our favorite, so far, are the mlekomats of Ursynów (www.mlekomaty.org). With their cartoon cows and country cottage roofs, their appearance has been as facebook.com/warsawinsider

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THE MUSEUM… OF BREAD For all the increasing westernization, Warsaw never loses its ability to surprise. And they don’t get more surprising than the opening of a museum dedicated to bread (warszawskie-muzeum-chleba. pl). While the main feature is rusty equipment, the place remains totally bonkers.

unexpected as a singing cat.

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CHILL DOWN When the mercury pushes 30, La Playa (Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5) becomes Warsaw’s playground of choice. The neo-tikki setting of this Wisła beach bar is helped along with lashings of cocktails and hammocks swinging in the breeze. At night, the peace shatters into a million party pieces.

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BEHIND THE SCREEN Taking place every October, the Warsaw Film Festival (www.wff.pl) has shot up in the public’s estimation. Check the latest independent movies and global releases, and meet some of the prima donnas behind them.

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MERMAIDS Warsaw’s official mascot, the mermaid, can be found around town. The best of the lot can be found on curly-wurly street, a.k.a Karowa: erected in 1905, the sword wielding nude has an almost Manga style look.

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JEWISH GHETTO Not many other areas breathe the city’s history as much as Muranów. At various points bronze floor maps mark out the boundary of the former Jewish Ghetto, along with 21 information boards that point out entry/exit points.

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ART HOUSE CINEMA Warsaw has embraced mall culture with hideous consequences – not least for independent cinemas.

Kino Muranów (muranow.gutekfilm. pl) is an escape from the trashy jumbo screens: its halls have been entertaining filmgoers since 1951, and its leftfield repertoire extends beyond borders.

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WEEKEND KICK AROUND With a dearth of outdoor pitches, the football field at Pole Mokotowskie (orlik2012.pl) is a shining example of 3G artificial technology and Warsaw’s premier amateur pitch.

In summer find ex-pats and Poles strutting their stuff at a slightly more sedate pace than the pros.

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DANGER: WILD ANIMALS Bears have been exiled to the concrete island between Solidarności and the zoo since 1952, though the current residents – Miraż, Turnia and Tatra – are considerably younger.

Always looking cute and docile, they’re doted on by the Warsaw public who overlook the ‘Don’t Do It’ signs to tempt them with cake.

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FOR THE TSAR The custard colored, onion domed church that is St. Mary Magdalene (Al. Solidarności 52) is one of the unmissable features of Warsaw’s right bank. Completed in 1869, its intricately excessive Orthodox interior hold bits of the destroyed Tsarist cathedral that once stood on pl. Piłsudskeigo.

REAL LIFE DRAMA One of only a few festivals in Europe exclusively devoted to documentary cinema, the May Watch Docs Festival is more thought provoking than entertaining, but adds intellectual balance to the cultural calendar.

A MESSAGE? The late Cardinal Archbishop of Warsaw, Stefan Wyszyński, looks like he’s imploring passers-by to “think about it” in the statue outside the Church of the Nuns of the Visitiation (Krakowskie Przedmieście 34).

Wise words indeed considering the proximity of the Browarmia brewery.

SNAPSHOT Each Sunday the Stodoła club (Batorego 10) surrenders its usual function as a place of desperate student fumblings to operate as a photo market – cut-price lenses, lamps, filters and cameras are all on sale, some of which qualify for vintage status.

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SUMMER DRINKS Plac Zabaw (ul. Myśliwiecka 9) only comes to life when the thermometer rises above 20. An outdoor bar of the type you’d more likely see in Italy or Spain, it’s party central in summer. A tolerance to mosquitoes and other nippy critters is required.

THEN & NOW A rare relic of the Warsaw Ghetto, Próżna is Warsaw’s ‘most authentic pre-war street’. On one side fragile tenements survive in their original, unrestored form, with the courtyard of No. 14 home to a controversial art installation of Hitler kneeling in prayer. At night, you can almost hear the ghosts.

LITTLE VIETNAM Warsaw is home to around 50,000 Vietnamese, giving it Europe’s highest concentration of Vietnamese outside of France and Germany. Much of the migration took place pre-’89, with many choosing to settle in the Żelazna Brama tower blocks – earning the area the nickname Little Vietnam.

SPIDER MAN Google ‘Warsaw Spider Man’ and you’ll get scores of vids catching the capital’s version of Spider Man getting up to prattish antics: hanging off railings, clinging on to trams and pranking pedestrians. As idiotic as it sounds, this urban pest has a global following.

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HALA MIROWSKA Pitted with war wounds, Hala Mirowska (Pl. Mirowski 1) is Warsaw’s answer to Borough Market. The fresh produce is superior to the supermarkets, though you’ll need nerves of steel to survive – we recommend a sharp-pointed umbrella to prompt dawdling oldies.

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LOCAL FOSSIL Some dinosaurs didn’t die, and Paragraf (Solidarności 84) is proof. Looking seedy and tired it’s a den of wheezing old men and cancer struck plants: in short, a perfectly preserved piece of the Eastern Bloc.

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A FINE LINE Just imagine a cross-city service that drops you on the doorstep of Warsaw’s best sights – and for the sake of a few coins. Well, such a thing exists. It’s the 180 bus, and you’ll find it covering everything from Wilanów Palace, to the Royal Route and former Ghetto.

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THE MOVING STAIRS Ride Poland’s first escalator (it’s as fun as it sounds!) by following the crowds into Krakowskie Przedmieście 89. Opened in 1949, reliefs celebrating Soviet-Polish friendship remain, as do churlish communist decrees warning children and those with heart defects from repeated use of ‘the moving stairs’.

Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon (Jerozolimskie 51) generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images. Peering through an eyepiece, visitors are taken on a trip around the world while ace tunes from yesteryear tootle in the background.

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SOHO FACTORY Warsaw’s creative heart, the warehouse complex on Mińska 25, is home to magazine offices, clothing labels and other such enterprises.

For the visitor, poke your nose into the Adventure Warsaw HQ – a shabby room stacked with communist debris.

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SENSE OF COMMUNITY In a country not keen on sharing, the communal table trend came as a bolt from the blue. Charlotte (pl.

Zbawciela) are commonly credited with starting it all off, and their Provence-style rough-wood table is perfect to practice the art of flirting with the hottie sat opposite.

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GHETTO BRIDGE As part of the rejuvenation of Chłodna, an installation brands the spot where a wooden footbridge linked the small Jewish Ghetto with the large. Illuminated at night, overhead lights mark where the crossing stood, while ground-level peepholes reveal what it once looked like.

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STAND UP Warsaw is not a funny city – comedy clubs do not belong here. But in the tight, dark basement of Chłodna 25 you will find regular comedy nights – some of them in English: you’ll sometimes laugh with them, but mostly you’ll laugh at them.

PEEP SHOW Thought to date from 1905,

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THE AFTER PARTY A mini creative community, Miasto Cypel (miastocypel.eu) is a bit of everything: a campsite, cultural experiment, and trendy market.

Mostly though, this forest clearing is a shellacking good night out. Reopening in May, greeting sunrise here is an after-club must.

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FACTORY FASHION Want a game of bicycle polo?

Or maybe a stained glass elephant is more to your fancy? Find these and more at the former Koneser Vodka Factory (Ząbkowska 27/31). Through a neo-Gothic gateway, there’s more to the industrial backdrop than meets the eye.

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SHOP TILL YOU DROP Credit cards panic as you walk down Mokotowska. It’s not just the elegant architecture that has Parisian hints – lined with boutiques, galleries, stylists and wine bars, this street is synonymous with luxury retail.

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COSMIC COMMUNISM Bizarre communist creations are numerous in Warsaw, but you’ll find our favorite on Sobieskiego 100.

Two tower blocks rise like a pyramid, connected at the apex with an interlinking bridge. The property of the Russian government, the abandoned flats once housed Cold War spies and diplomats.

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APPETITE FOR DESTRUCTION Nicknamed JW Destruction, the JW Construction firm has littered the landscape with Lego look residential projects that never cease to draw tuts.

The flamboyant owner did, at least, appease many (Legia supporting) locals during his mad, maverick stint as the owner of Polonia.

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with cascading water features and unimpeded views of the blushing sunset.

THE HANGING GARDEN “One of the largest and most beautiful rooftop gardens in Europe,” or so claim the tourist board. The garden on top of the University Library (Dobra 56/66) is indeed handsome,

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SEGWAY? YES WAY! Menace pedestrians and see Warsaw’s top sights at the same time – yes please! Do so by jumping on an eco-friendly Segway and zipping about the tourist quarter. Qualified facebook.com/warsawinsider

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accompanying tour guides add an educational bonus. For more: www. segwaycitytours.pl

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WAITING FOR THE LIGHT 2 a.m., and no traffic for miles – but bet on seeing obedient pedestrians waiting for the little green man before setting foot on the road. Their reasoning is sound: (i) jaywalkers are easy prey for the feds; (ii) drivers interpret red lights as a suggestion, nothing more.

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WARSAW PRIDE Conservative attitudes, and even attempts to ban the thing all together, have done little to damage the momentum of Warsaw Pride. Full of color and fanfare and festive high jinks, the equality parade will take place on June 15th.

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HOME FROM HOME Every Pole you’ll meet will tell you about their działka – a second home, usually a glorified shed, to which to retreat at the weekends to bond with the family. Find hundreds of these colorful allotments west of Pole Mokotowskie. Cut off from reality, they’re like a secret world.

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CHOPIN IN THE PARK Since 1959, weather permitting, it’s been a Sunday tradition to listen to al fresco piano recitals in the shadow of the Chopin statue (Łazienki Park). Running from May till September, the concerts attract thousands.

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BURGER KING It’s a sign of the times – ask what Warsaw’s favorite food is and the answer is burgers. Burger joints have gone viral since 2012, and the best of the bunch is tiny, little WarBurger (corner of Dąbrowskiego/ Puławska).

INTELLECTUAL NOURISHMENT Warsaw has numerous cafes that feed the artistic soul, but none hold a candle to PanstwoMiasto (Andersa 29). Cavernous halls echo to the sound of heated political and creative debate, making PM a scholarly standout.

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THE STONE STAIRS Off the Old Town square, trot down Kamienne Schodki, a steep narrow staircase with views out to Praga. Now favored by canoodling couples, Napoleon walked down these very steps in 1806 (apparently unimpressed by their state) while having a gossip with Prince Poniatowski.

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STREET FOOD No street is complete without a winking kebab sign to lure the unwitting. Avoid a shuddering stomach by ignoring the competition and joining the line at Efes Kebab (Francuska 1) – it’s a Warsaw rite of passage.

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TREASURE HUNT Set your alarm on Sunday morning to visit Koło Market (Obozowa 99). The antiques are wide in scope, ranging from WWII bits to Socialist propaganda and pre-war booty. Bartering is fast and frantic.

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A QUICK TIPPLE For a cheeky red or a glass of Prosecco, Bar Cenzura (Mysia 3) is a tough one to beat. The design is minimal but enjoyable and a serious indicator that Poland has style.

UN-FINNISHED BUSINESS Built as a temporary solution to house architects working on the post-war reconstruction of Warsaw, the Finnish Houses (ul.

Jazdów) survive to this day. But for how long? Plans to demolish these wooden chalets are now in full swing – catch them while you can.

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DAY OF THE DEAD Walk off the Halloween hangover each November 1st with a trip to Powązki. Like all cemeteries on this day, thousands of flickering candles cast a deep red glow over the granite graves and necropolises.

Powerful stuff.

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THE WARSAW PALM Looking incongruous amid the traffic and the noise, the artificial palm on Rondo De Gaulle’a has become a local landmark since being unveiled in 2002. Titled ‘Greetings from Jerusalem’ it’s meant as a reminder of Warsaw’s lost Jewish population.

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LUCKY DIP Free from CGI, queues, gimmicks and nonsense, the Wola Museum (Srebrna 12) is somewhere on the Z-List of local attractions. A proper old style museum, it’s a dusty collection of, at times, completely random swag.

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MULTI USE Public toilets are an endangered species. Sold off to private enterprises in the 90s, many of these once gruesome facilities now function as snack cabins. One worth spending a penny or two in is Misianka, an award winning cake shop in Park Skaryszewski.

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LOCAL TALENT The undercarriage of the W-Z highway is the unlikely and aromatic home of Warsaw’s best wall art. Admire the work of local street artists, many of which are both political and witty in equal measure. But breathe deep: the smells are unique.

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AN EVENING OF CULTURE Entered through ornate courtyard gates, Teatr Kamienica (teatrkamienica.pl) is a supremely intimate experience which surpasses the language barrier through atmosphere alone. Władysław Szpilman, a.k.a The Pianist, entertained here during the Ghetto years.

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CONFISCATED GOODS Warsaw’s tram network has seen a spate of heavy spending.

But while daylight brings a growing

number of sleek machines, come the midnight hours find knackered maintenance trams clanking around.

They’re part of wartime reparations straight from Berlin, and have managed to outlast many of their modern day successors.

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BLAST TO THE PAST What does Warsaw do with Cold War shelters once the nuclear threat goes? It transforms them into a strip club (Playhouse, Solidarności 82A), a raw food restaurant (Surya, Wałowa 3) and luxury office project (Ufficio Primo, Wspólna 62). Nice thinking.

against communism. Murdered by the security forces, it’s a deeply moving – and at times graphic – testament to the Solidarity struggle.

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INNER CITY PALACE Squirreled through a courtyard on Lwowska 13 is Pałac Rusieckiego. Closed to the public (ring the doorbell, hope for the best), the interiors are astonishing – dazzling chambers and, even, a 19th century wooden Turkish bath. Hook or by crook, you have to get in.

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UNDERHAND QUEUE TACTICS Master the secrets of queue barging at U Hodunia (Nowomiejska 7/9).

This Old Town ice cream stop has lines to rival the Vatican, though the end result is far more rewarding.

You’ll hear every excuse in the book as people try sneaky maneuvers into favorable positions.

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RENT A BIKE Following their highly successful debut in 2012, Warsaw’s bike sharing scheme returns once Jack Frost retires – this time, with an improved offer of 2,124 bikes spread across 127 stations. For info: en.veturilo.waw.pl

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THE SAUSAGE DOG So named because of its height and length, and not the local liking for sausage-shaped dogs, the ‘Jamnik’ is Warsaw’s longest structure – 508 meters in length, this 70s apartment block achieved fame when it featured in the Travis video Love Will Come Through.

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MOSCOW CALLING Few hammer and sickles survived the iconoclastic vengeance of 1989. But check out the mural by Capital (Marzałkowska 115) and you’ll see one that made it. Warming to the theme, club nights in Capital are pure Moscow bling.

NEW & OLD Worlds, cultures, styles and stories collide on pl. Grzybowski: Jewish, Catholic, communist, capitalist, Tsarist. Ponder the past amid the water features and shrubbery that have been added as part of Joanna Rajkowska’s bid to create ‘an enclave of fresh air’.

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BOUTIQUE UNIQUE It’s all very Jeeves & Wooster in the Rialto Hotel (rialto. pl), an elegant diamond dressed in Art Deco style. Vastly enjoyable, it teleports you back to the golden years of Warsaw.

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A GLASS OF CLASS Announced by a burst of neon, Syreni Śpiew (Szara 10A) deceives from the outside. Appearing like a 70s nightmare, this concrete atrocity unfolds as Warsaw’s premier whisky bar: high class, on trend and occasionally devastatingly expensive.

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ENGINEERING MASTERY Bored with your view?

Easy, call the builders. In 1970 that’s just what happened with the Lubomirski Palace (ul. Żelazna Brama 10). Raised onto hydraulic jacks, the 8,000 ton palace was rotated round on rails by a trajectory of 70 degrees.

Genius.

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MODERN MARTYR In the basement of St. Stanisław Kostka Church (ul. Hozujsa 2) lies a fascinating display following Father Jerzy Popiełuszko’s fight

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HAIL MARY Praga is famed for its shrines – the majority of these Mary’s appeared during the war, bringing with them a sense of security and hope. To this day they’re carefully tended and elaborately decorated, and lend a vibrant color to the battered backyards.

OLIMPIA Looking like a chaotic junkyard, the Olimpia market (Górczewska 56) is where superfluous home clutter ends up for sale. Even if you come away empty handed, it’s an experience nonetheless.

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BREAK BREAD With its communal table, SAM (Lipowa 7A) is the place to break bread with your neighbor – whose likely to be an upcoming designer / facebook.com/warsawinsider

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artist / musician / braggart. Painfully fashionable, but the bread is Last Supper stuff.

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MIX IT UP There’s no shortage of social events to keep the diary drenched in red, but top of the tree are the monthly mixers organized by InterNations (internations.org). More informal (i.e., more beer), Professionals in Warsaw do a good job of connecting strangers in a cheery style.

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OUTDOOR ART Warsaw, at times, is a grey, dusty place. Lending color to the gloom are the works of NeSpoon (www.behance.net/nespoon), a street artist determined to decorate the city’s outside surfaces with discreet little patterns, ladybirds and butterflies.

crumpled, crumbling tenement, gets the attention straight away – as does the 1,400 sq/m mural on the side of the structures shattered shell.

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LILOU Diamonds aren’t a girl’s best friend, Lilou (lilou.pl) are – in Warsaw, at least. Selling personalized necklaces, rings, bracelets, etc., the cutesy designs are totally ‘little princess’ in their style: heart-shapes and teddy bears dominate the offer.

A real Warsaw fad.

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MUSICAL BENCHES As part of its growing Chopinphilia, the city has installed 15 ‘musical benches’ along key locations on the Chopin trail. Follow the instructions via your phone and you’ll gain access to a multimedia ensemble of factoids and tunes.

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BRIDGE OVER TROUBLED WATERS Warsaw lacks a truly iconic bridge, though Most Poniatowskiego certainly comes close. Destroyed three times, and the stage of an inter-bellum coup, it’s had a rough time. Its grand towers have seen it all: nowadays though, the biggest threat they face is from spray cans.

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SERVICE WITH A SNARL There’s no ‘have a nice day’ robots working in Warsaw.

Customer service remains a thrill: polished professionals, theatrical waiters, flirty bar girls, etc. But the customer isn’t always right, as some staff will remind you. It all adds to Warsaw’s complicated charm.

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DINNER WITH THE PEACOCKS There are many reasons to love the capital’s most magnificent green space, Łazienki Park, one of them being Belvedere restaurant (belvedere.com.pl). Located in a beautiful orangery, watch strutting peacocks and cute red squirrels while digging into gourmet standard food.

ACTION NOT WORDS The Monument to the Ghetto Heroes is where Chancellor Willy Brandt sank to his knees in 1970, an iconic image which lay the foundations for German-Jewish reconciliation. A tablet in the north west of the park recalls his actions, and has had an embarrassing typo recently corrected.

CHANGING OF THE GUARD Only one section of Saski Palace survived the war, and that’s the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. At noon, each day, the Changing of the Guard takes place, and is required viewing for anyone with an eye for pageantry and ceremony.

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SCARS OF WAR Bullet holes are numerous around Warsaw, outright war ruins are less so. So the sight of Waliców 14, a

IN IT TOGETHER Żoliborz saw rapid development in the inter-bellum, with the city fathers creating scores of communal housing projects. The boldest examples of these plans can be seen at the WSM estate east of Pl. Wilsona, and the Le Corbusierinspired Glass House on Mickiewicza 34/36.

4 A.M. The essence of dive bar Warsaw can be found bottled in Plan B (pl. Zbawiciela). Weekends pass by in raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover is traumatic.

CHMIELNA ORCHESTRA Found plying their trade on the corner of Nowy Świat / Chmielna, this street band is celebrated for bashing out traditional ‘Warsaw songs’. Engrained in local culture, these cloth-capped old timers are practically sacred.

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TOP OF THE WORLD Some call the Panorama Bar (Marriott) expensive, clever people don’t. You could spend zł. 15 to get to the top of Palace of Culture and shiver glumly. Or, you could spend a little more on a beer at the warm, swanky Marriott and get the same view.

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RETRO FASHION Style-conscious Warsaw can appear like a catwalk. But away from the bright city lights and up-to-date trends, it’s endearing to see a loyalty to the past: gents with flat caps and plump moustaches, or rouged up ladies with bushy furs and tightly pressed berets.

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POOH BEAR What’s not to like about a street named after Winnie the Pooh – or, in Polish, Kubusia Puchatka.

Completed in 1956, the authorities were foxed what to call the road, so a local paper held a vote amongst children: Winnie came out trumps.

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BLIND LEAD THE BLIND Learn the challenges blind people face with a trip to the Invisible Exhibition (niewidzialna.pl). On the tour you’ll be plunged into pitch darkness, and left to deal with everyday situations like ordering a drink or crossing the road. You’ll feel blessed for several days after.

Centre (www.kopernik.org.pl) achieves the impossible and makes science fun.

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LOAD OF COBBLERS Sometimes, it’s the personal touch that counts. A walk down Nowogrodzka and Hoża reveals countless niche enterprises, many of which have passed through generations: milliners, tailors, cobblers and more. Their shadowy studios hark to a time of painstaking craftsmanship.

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WARSAW: 1935 Released this March, Warszawa 1935 (warsaw1935.com) is a 3D animation that takes viewers on a 20 minute journey through inter-war Warsaw. The result of four years of graft, the film – showing in all decent cinemas – unlocks the past like it’s never been before.

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RUN FOREST, RUN The Praga side of the Wisła offers a unique setting to get the legs motoring along the dense tree-lined nature trails that run along the bank.

‘The last wild river in Europe’ is great for runners, cyclists and strollers alike.

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ZOMBIE WALK The zombie walk phenomena has been going strong in Warsaw since 2007, with the number of participants in 2012 estimated at 2,000. The costumes are freaky, gory and bewildering, with the organizers encouraging would-be attendees to swat up ‘on latest zombie trends’.

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PROTOTYPE SKYSCRAPER Unveiled in 1934, the Prudential Tower (Powstańców Warszawy 9) was installed as Europe’s second highest building on completion. Tonked by 1,000 shells during the Uprising, it refused to keel over. After years of serving as a humdrum hotel, top class restoration is now under way.

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SCIENCE REINVENTED Screaming into a box, lying on a bed of nails, and having a whirl on a flying carpet – if science had been like this at school we’d have a world of boffins. The Copernicus

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WORLD ON THEIR SHOULDERS Two statues of muscle bound titans hold up the entrance portal of Ujazdowskie 29, a style replicated in various other turn-of-the-century tenements around town. Completed in 1907, the building even includes sculptural elements from the Royal Castle in its courtyard.

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POCKET SIZED Find Warsaw’s smallest house (Długa 1) attached to the Church of the Holy Spirit. On completion, in 1843, this dinky dwelling sold exotic Turkish tobacco, before causing outrage in 1869 when the owner began hawking smutty French magazines.

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HOME IS WHERE THE HEART IS Chopin’s body might be buried in Paris, but his heart is firmly in Warsaw’s Church of the Holy Cross.

Stored in a crystal urn filled with cognac, plans to DNA test the composer’s ticker to investigate his cause of death have been rebuffed.

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MULLED WINE The reconstructed Old Town Rynek never looks bad. But it’s at its best in winter, under a dusting of snow. Muffle up against the chills and sip mulled wine from one of the wooden huts that construe the Christmas Market.

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IN REMEMBRANCE Six hundred sappers died in the post-war operation to diffuse German ordinance, and they’re remembered by a 70s monument that’s unmissable from Solec. Closeup, the 17 meter pylons are decorated with bas-reliefs depicting scenes of combat.

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MUSIC FOR THE MASSES May’s Orange Music Festival (orangewarsawfestival.pl) has emerged as one of the nation’s key cultural events, with the profile of the performers increasing each year. 2013 sees pop royalty Beyonce booked.

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SECRET HIDEOUT Władysław Szpilman, better known as The Pianist, escaped Nazi persecution by hiding in a succession of safe houses in Warsaw.

His most famous hideout, where he met his savior – Captain Hosenfeld – is now marked with a plaque at Niepodległości 223.

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BUY LOCAL The once tragic state of Polish brewing has been given new impetus by the emergence of backwater breweries. In Warsaw, that means the Konstancin brand, a cult beer that uses classic techniques and no modern short-cuts.

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GO GREEN Added in 2000 to UNESCO’s list of biosphere reserves, Kampinos National Park to the north west of the city includes 200 kilometers of bouncy cycling trails, the manor Chopin was born in and the high impact Palmiry Museum dedicated to victims of Nazi terror.

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PIEROGI Loosen the belt and expand the waistline at Zapiecik (zapiecik.eu), a chain restaurant with

a traditional look and mushrooming branches. The jumbo plates of pierogi are a challenge to finish, but finish them you will.

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CHOCKS AWAY The city’s first chocolate café was opened by Wedel in 1851: found on Szpitalna 8 it’s still going strong. With its rich aromas and perky maids, it’s the cradle of the Wedel chocolate empire.

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FUNCTIONALISM The back-to-basics values preached by Le Corbusier are most prominent in Saska Kępa, the exclusive suburb south of the stadium.

Precise in their style, the houses lining Obronców and Katowicka are emblematic of the district.

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TRAIN SPOTTING Not everyone’s cup of tea, the Railway Museum on Towarowa 1 picks up speed outside, where over 30 trains have been assembled to quietly live out their lives – among them, one of the armored trains that once shelled the city.

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A FRENCH CONNECTION Viennese in its style, Blikle (Nowy Świat 33) almost overwhelms with its 19th century grandeur. In business since 1869, Charles de Gaulle was a regular visitor while based here in 1920. The eclairs are a legend.

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FAT KATE Emerging fortress-like from the water of the Wisła is the stout, rotund shape of Gruba Kasia (Fat Kate). A unique urban well that extends well below the riverbed, Kasia sucks up 100,000 cubic meters of water each and every day.

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SPOŁEM Notoriously associated with the empty shops that defined 80s Poland, the Społem logo actually has a history that’s 130 years old.

Looking gorgeously graphic, the logo is as symbolic as Coca-Cola.

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URBAN MARKET Mingle with foodies and trendies alike at the Urban Market.

Held at irregular intervals at 1500m2 (Solec 18), this former printing factory packs out with food stalls set up by Warsaw’s hippest hangouts.

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WATER TRAM Operating from May till August, the water tram (zeglugastoleczna.pl) offers a unique – albeit limited – way to traverse Warsaw.

Manned by ringers for Popeye, the captain will even allow a quick go on the wheel!

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POSTERS Considered one of the best museums of its genre in the world, the Poster Museum (postermuseum.pl) has 55,000 exhibits in its collection, making it the definitive authority on this style of art.

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KITCHEN ACTION In scenes straight out of Hell’s Kitchen, chefs’ curse and squabble in U Kucharzy (www. gessler.pl), a high octane restaurant plopped in the former kitchen of the Europejski Hotel. For a dose of drama it’s hard to beat.

NEW WAVE DINING Not long ago dining Polishstyle meant bigos with Żywiec. But just when you thought it couldn’t get worse, along came a new generation of chefs who’ve ripped up the rule book. Names like Okrasa (Plater), Trzópek (Tamka 43), Skubisz (Amber Room), Grochowina (Nolita) and Amaro (Atelier), have pointed Warsaw in a revolutionary direction.

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SALA KONGRESOWA With its voluptuous curves and plush red colors, Sala Kongresowa (pkin.pl) is typical of the showboating Soviet style. Used as a concert space as to this day, The Rolling Stones performed here in 1967 to a crowd that was obliged to obediently stay seated.

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LATIN FLAVOR Warsaw’s ever diversifying, and among recent fads is the discovery of tapas. Carmona (carmona.pl) does these peerlessly, becoming a Hispanic oasis in the Capital Cabbage.

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THE MUSIC MAN Using the Old Town Rynek as his arena, find Organ Man cranking out tunes from an ancient looking organ. Accompanied by a parrot (sometimes real, but usually a toy), this immaculate old gent also hawks cards that will forecast your future.

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CITY MYSTERY An prize piece of PRL real estate, the Rotunda (Rondo Dmowskiego) has survived modern bids to knock it down. It wasn’t so lucky in 1975 when an explosion left 49 dead. It remains one of Warsaw’s great whodunits: officials cite a gas leak, conspiracy theorists disagree.

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COOKERY WITH CLASS With shining views from the top floor of the Olympic Centre, it’s not just the panorama that draws people to Moonsfera (moonsfera.pl).

Head chef Jarosław Uścićski offers regular culinary workshops, enabling all to learn “the secrets of the master chef.”

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FORTRESS WARSAW Warsaw is ringed by a series of Tsarist red brick forts.

Today, many of them of how found new use – most famously, the dingy depths of Fort M (Racławicka 99) have been transformed into a series of bars and clubs.

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MANHATTAN Earning the moniker of ‘Little Manhattan’, Warsaw’s CBD glitters with skyscrapers: from JR Ewingstyle towers to more contemporary facebook.com/warsawinsider

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sun blocking marvels. Together they form an odd jigsaw, lending Warsaw a big city feel that draws gasps from the yokels.

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DOWN IN THE SEWERS The Insider is inherently suspicious of idiot-proof museums that rely on gimmicks and technology.

We make an exception for the Uprising Musem (1944.pl). Their recreated sewer is a claustrophobic affair that leaves an impression.

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UNDERGROUND MOLE Down in the depths of Dworzec Centralna is Kultowe Dobranocki – a toy store with a difference.

Retro-themed, it features the toys and stuffed animals that were synonymous during communism: including Krecik, a cute Czech mole.

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STREET TRADE Where would Warsaw be without its street traders? Retailing everything from shoelaces and slippers to seasonal produce, find these Spartans braving the elements and the attentions of the law. In summer, nothing beats a punnet of strawberries fresh from the country.

OFF THE WALL New Town gets neither the publicity nor the tourist traffic of Old Town, but nevertheless holds endless glories. Among these are its friezes and frescos, which include allegorical animals and decorative mosaics.

Keep your eyes peeled!

PHOENIX BUILDING Once the site of Poland’s National Bank, the Senator building (Bielanśka 10/12) was once a pockmarked relic spotted by thousands of bullets. Now renovated as Grade A office space, its sensitive restoration retains some of the war torn facade.

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WHOLE FOOD Find Warsaw’s first organic market taking place each Saturday in the industrial confines of the former Norblin factory. Providing a lifeline for home chefs, the Bio Bazar (biobazar. org.pl) resonates with color and sound.

RUSTIC DINING Doing a convincing job of impersonating a remote village tavern, Folk Gospoda (folkgospoda. pl) excels with daring portions of traditional food. It’s the complete rustic experience, and made all the better with a cold nip of vodka.

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ONE FOR THE ROAD Pokey little shot bars are endemic, offering a new slant on an old tradition. Pijalnia (Nowy Świat 19A) do it better than most, with zł.

4 shots and baby beers inside tiled interiors right out of 1978.

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A CITY DIVIDED The Nazis did an efficient job of erasing the Jewish Ghetto, drowning the area under 3-4 million cubic tons of rubble. The Ghetto Wall spanned 15km, though today only a token fragment survives: view it inside the courtyard of Sienna 55.

FOR KIDS The largest entertainment complex in Warsaw, it’s impossible not to include Hula Kula (hulakula. com.pl) in any Top 200. Get competitive in the bowling alley, scale a giant rock climbing wall, or take time out while the sprogs lose themselves in Hula Land.

ART ATTACK The CSW gallery (csw.art. pl) is (in)famous for daring exhibits that challenge boundaries and thoughts. Their bookshop, however, is not just some bit on the side.

Demanding a visit in its own right, it's filled with heavy tomes that will impress on the coffee table.

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SOMETHING FOR HOME Milk bars are on the wane, but their legacy isn’t. No home is complete without the handle-less cups – replete with a groovy retro logo – associated with these stops. Find them on-sale in stores around town.

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COFFIN PORTRAITS In a fad unique to Polish 17th century nobility, coffins were once adorned with the portraits of those found inside – so that the deceased aristocrats could sternly look on at the funeral wake. Find a collection of such artwork at Wilanów Palace (wilanow-palac.pl).

MORSKI OKO Set in Mokotów the Morski Oko impresses with its Moorish-style towers and a neo-Gothic palace. The building on Morskie Oko 5 is reputed to be Warsaw’s most haunted, though entry requires ninja like stealth.

GNOME MAN’S LAND The Orange Alternative were / are a surrealist group who relied on absurd forms of protest during communism. Using gnomes as their symbol, you’ll still find a few of these fellas sprayed onto walls: most notably on Madalińskiego 3/5.

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CONTEMPORARY ART Described by The New York Times as “the region’s hottest young gallery,” the independently-run Raster (raster.art.pl) has become a launch pad for upcoming creatives.

By visiting, keep one step ahead of fluctuating art trends.

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CONCRETE JUNGLE Few cities can claim such an affinity to concrete as Warsaw. Yay gods, even the public bins are made of the stuff. Erasing the gray, however, has become something of a pastime.

For evidence, check the car park behind Novotel

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LIEBESKIND Intended as a sign of how Warsaw’s progressed, Daniel Liebeskind’s Złota 44 has caused public indignity. Put simply, it looked better in the pictures. Currently looking like an insult to the sky, it’s another local landmark we’ll all learn to love.

Reviews: Porto Praga 27 / Po Prostu Zachęta 42 / Plus:

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RESTAURANTS

AFRICAN 27 / AMERICAN & TEX-MEX 27 / ASIAN 30 / BALKAN & RUSSIAN 32 / BRITISH 32 / BURGERS 40 / CHEAP EATS 34 / COOKING SCHOOLS 50 / FOOD SHOPS 49 / FRENCH 33 /GERMAN 33 / GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN 33 / INDIAN 33 / INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 34 / ITALIAN 40 / JAPANESE & SUSHI 44 / JEWISH 44 / LATIN 45 / POLISH 45 / SCANDINAVIAN 48 / WHOLE FOODS 50

KEY

Insider’s Pick

$ zł. 30 (per main)

BOW 2012 Winner...........

Breakfast menu .............

Business meetings.......... $$$ over zł. 55 Child friendly...................

Insider writers do Delivery............................. not accept any Free wifi.............................. form of payment in Map location pg. 78 ...... (A1) return for favorable Romantic.......................... reviews.

Vegetarian friendly........... $$ zł. 30-55

AFRICAN

Porto Praga ul. Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 50 10, www.portopraga.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. The exteriors don’t go beyond some tribal paintings and exotic lamps, while parts of the menu will frighten the life out of you – baked cow back, for example, sounds like a cooked spinal cord.

Our beef/tomato stew was excellent, but the goat meat saw plenty of tactical napkin use.

And good luck with the gizzard. $$

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AMERICAN & TEX-MEX

ince opening I’ve always regarded Porto Praga as a classic all-rounder. But as Warsaw dining has developed, so too has this brick bastion. Emerging from the murky concept of ‘restobar’, it finds itself entering a new stage of life – that of a fine dining establishment.

This shift hasn’t been part of any shock therapy, rather a gradual maturity that’s served the place well. However, it is now the food that forms the central core element, and evidence of this arrives before the starters: a red onion marmalade with homemade butter. Already, I know I’m going to enjoy this. The duck carpaccio that lands next does so with a crown of candied orange peel. It’s light, fresh and fragrant in spite of its generous size. But my enjoyment is interrupted by a cooing noise that can be tracked to my girlfriend. Tasting her escargots, served on a fluffy pillow of pureed potatoes, I finally understand the meaning of bliss.

Mains are a dilemma. The lamb is a serious temptation – sourced from Połoniny, our server regales us with a spiel on Porto Praga’s commitment to slow food. PP are equally proud of their seafood – their Thursday / Friday ‘Fish Market’ introduces monkfish, John Dory and more exotic offers to the menu. Opting for something simpler, we order the mussels: for her, with chili sauce, for myself, Pilsner. A brief argument ensues as we squabble whose is better. I scoop the mussels out with my fingers, and soon enough I’ve got the tablecloth splotched: not behavior befitting of the sophisticated backdrop, but a sign of utter and emphatic total enjoyment. My partner concurs. Accusingly, she asks me why we don’t eat here more often.

We’re both filled, and after protracted negotiations decide it’s probably best if we leave out dessert. But having settled the bill, along comes a surprise: clearly having heard the ‘shall we / shan’t we’ shenanigans, the waiter arrives with two mini-meringues as a nice little send off. It’s a great gesture, and certainly appreciated. Served with a slick of passion fruit sauce, it’s a magical end to a victorious night. (AW)

Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 629 3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00.

Sometimes, all you need is a good steak to make everything okay. This is not the place to find one. Usually disappointing, occasionally catastrophic, this Wild West eatery gets nil points for style, and even fewer for service. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$ Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, www.dostacos.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00. Warsaw’s newest Tex Mex

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RESTAURANTS outing has been earning perfect 10s from the Insider’s who’ve visited. $ Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00.

Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has the pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, www.sioux.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef.

Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. Now favoring a concrete, industrial look, SPE have lost the Sky Sports and rousing rock acts that once made them such a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Nonetheless the Tex Mex renditions remain both reliable and good, though now they’re enjoyed more by hotel guests than repeat visit ex-pats. $$

Spoco Loco ul. Sarmacka 10, tel. 887 447 447, www. spocoloco.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Hotheads look no further than Spoco Loco, a Wilanów eatery that grades its salsas from 1-7: order the No. 7 and you’ll be running outside to stick your head in the snow. Huge servings, with liberal prices ensuring you get plenty of bang for your buck. $ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29 (Atrium Plaza), tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, but the burgers are always on-point inside this classic piece of stars & stripes vulgarity. $$ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Hefty portions, freshly made tortillas and salsas that will rattle your brain are the core principles here. But don’t think of WTF as a mere restaurant. This ex-pat haven has it all, from live sports, bands and a party atmosphere that drags long into the night. $$

went pop they’re back with a neat looking effort on Bracka. Decorated with palms and mint colors, this double decker restaurant gains particular approval for its pho dishes. $ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:0022:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$

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ASIAN

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com.

Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00. A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, the exhaustive menu combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes to an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$

Bar Sajgon (D4) ul. Bracka 18. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00.

A cult budget eatery once found in the defunct Russian Market. Two years after the original

China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, www.chinagarden.pl. Open daily 12:0022:00. Allegedly the first Jiangsu cuisine restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes at the China

ul. Senatorska 27 tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl

ORIGINAL CHINESE CUISINE

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Garden are indeed unique. On show here is everything from bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts, goose jaws and stewed bull’s penis with radish – I dare you. $$ Co To To Je ul. Nugat 7, tel. 882 188 302, www.cototoje.pl.

Open 12:00-23:00. Signaling the latest twist in Warsaw’s diversification is this place – a restaurant specializing in bugs! Not for the squeamish, dishes here include silkworm skewers, mealworm larvae camembert, and crickets with duck and raspberry sauce. What could possibly go wrong? $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ Fusion Perfect (D5) ul. Wspólna 35, tel. 22 628 1825. Open

12:00-24:00. If rumor is to be believed, the owner is the guy who once created the Dziki Ryż empire. The choice covers all the bases, the tastes are convincing and the restaurant looks like a typical mid-market Asian: subdued lighting and dark woods. All it needs now is a few more customers to fill out the tables. $$ InAzia ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Hotel), tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Sat 17:00-23:00. The Sheraton has a rich history of serving some of Warsaw’s best Asian food, with chef Marcin Sasin creating a menu that draws on influences as diverse as Indonesian, Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese. Popular with Thai diplomats and hushed hotel guests, the experience is worth the quite considerable splurge. $$$ Little Thai Gallery (D3) Pl. Dąbrowskiego 2/4, tel. 22 827 4410, www.littlethaigallery.pl . Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. High gloss violet interiors and cute elephant candle holders

lend this place no shortage of style. The food can be a hit and miss affair, though the curry dishes are usually every bit as good as they sound. So too the green tea ice cream. $$ Natara (B3) Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 666 101 500.

Open 10:00-22:00. With a few wilting orchids and some symbolic pics of Buddha this bi-level restaurant won’t be in the running for any style prizes. The food is spot-on though, and after a brief panic during which we considered ordering everything – it all sounds so good – the Insider settled for duck in wine and a classic green curry. The results were outstanding: rich, velvety flavors and complex tastes. $$

*

Natara Old Town ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13. Open 11:00-23:00. Set inside the Old Town walls, the setting is magical – from the outside. Inside, it’s all dowdy brown and plastic plants. Service, if you can call it that, teases patience to the max, but the food is fantastic. Everything we’ve tried on the menu goes right, not least the fiery red curry

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RESTAURANTS duck. Highly recommended. $$

*

Papaya ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya have softened the interiors a little, giving the aesthetics a less rigid look. The menu is a considerable success and includes sushi, kobe beef and a much talked about Peking duck. Our advice, however, is to check out Poland’s only teppanyaki grill – thank us after. $$ Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, www.pekinduck.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude. The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750.

Open 12:00-23:00. Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $ Silk & Spicy (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012. Open 12:00-last guest. If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it.

“The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $ Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Small but perfectly formed interiors and a menu that’s widely hailed by Thai devotees. The green beef curry is outstanding. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood.

The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$

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Suparom Thaifood II ul. Wałbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307.

Mon-Fri 9:30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00.

Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Why Thai ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www.whythai. pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:001:00. A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the levels one expects. $$ Yummy (D5) ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. The Insider’s favorite budget Asian eatery, even if the empty tables suggest dark forces at work in the kitchen. Modern and minimal, the lemon chicken is delicious and the pad thai is a sure bet. $

BALKAN & RUSSIAN Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, www.banjaluka.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

Numerous meaty dishes from Serbia and Croatia are served inside a Banja Luka, a Warsaw stalart who’ve moved with the time and... moved. The new, central location is as pleasing as the last, with lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00.

This is one of those places that you enter knowing straight away that you want more.

Try the bacon-and-tomato-scented Solanka soup and the pielmieni “Moskiewskie.”

The no-frills interiors buzz with vodka tinged high jinks. $

Gemo ul. Minska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 22 468 1876, www.gemorestaurant.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. At last, a Georgian restaurant without gnarled furniture and peasant fabrics. Located inside Soho Factory, Gemo has severe, industrial style accented further by steel lights and exposed pipework. The menu is modestly priced, yet includes several dishes to return for: the szaszlyk, for one. $

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Montenegro ul. Natolińska 3, tel. 885 787 887. Open 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. The two levels are covered in soothing whites, and the interiors suggest a makeover conducted with little budget but plenty of taste. Servings are immense, leaving diners no room to explore other courses, and while the cevapcici (handrolled mince) are decent, they’re no superior to anything you might get in a reputable kebab store – but the reaction from Warsaw’s food blogs suggests we may have visited on a bad day. Beware: clanking construction work next door make earplugs a must. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, www.umadziara.pl. Open 11:00-21:00.

Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, but there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen. The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing compared to his signature goulash. Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $

BRITISH The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub.pl.

Open 8:00-1:00. The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsummer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors.

But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day

breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

FRENCH Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 0107, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00. Bistro de Paris has always won the highest accolades from reviewers ranging from the Insider to Michelin. Here the food is exquisite, dynamic and flawless; whilst the service itself shines through all on its own. Perfect for dinner with the boss or wining and dining clients. $$ Chez Belier ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 22 11. Open 12:00-24:00. Designed by Maciej Zień – Poland’s undisputed King of Fashion – Chez Belier looks five star with its immaculate blend of black and white colors, crystal lights and orchids. The menu is a compact affair, and is perfect in every respect: from presentation to taste. Modern and international, the offer numbers a fabulous tuna steak served on a bed of mango salsa. $$$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www.larc.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. An elegant white/black eatery with elaborate plate presentations and crustaceans lurking in the water tank – the house specialty is lobster, and they’ve got it to a tee. $$ Saint Jacques (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. 22 620 2531, www.saintjacques.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Warsaw’s had a long liaison with France, yet the cuisine remains under-represented.

This bistro plays the right notes with an intimate interior sprinkled with street signs and life-size black and whites of distant day Paris. $$

GERMAN

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Adler ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, www. adlerrestauracja.pl. Open 10:00-23:30; Sat-

Sun 13:00-23:30. Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $$

GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN

Le Cedre (F1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl.

Open daily 11:00-23:00. With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$

wheat, grape leaves, rose and orange flower water. Fresh cheese (Lebanese and Bulgarian) can be bought by weight from the deli counter. $ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 628 0782. Open 8:00-last guest. The design looks great, even if it plagiarizes Charlotte a touch (white brickwork, blackboard, communal table), and it even has the same chattery buzz. So the surprise here is the food is Turkish, and not just any Turkish, but excellent Turkish! The lamb and beef in tomato sauce is already part of the Insider diet, and the moussaka not far behind. But forget the word diet when it comes to dessert – the cherry chocolate cake is outstanding, but a menace to the beltline. $ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00.

Just what you didn’t expect – a restaurant specializing in the food of Yemen. Featuring lots of spicy meat dishes, and a few Indian-style offerings as well, here’s a fantastic spot that arouses curiosity and taste buds alike. The interiors are snug and pleasant, and not short on surprises – e.g. a concrete telephone pole adorned with potted plants. $$

Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, www.lecedre.pl. Open 11:00-23:00.

Legendary Le Cedre have a new venture, and this one looks even better than the original over the river. Deep plum colors work well inside, and we recommend turning up with a group of friends and splitting the Baalbak (six cold starters) or Byblos (six hot starters) menu. Aside from a candid A-Z of this cuisine, it’s a great opportunity to cover the tables with fancy little plates before causing a right mess amongst you as you share and share alike. $$

Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777.

Open 11:00-23:00. A definite applicant for Poland’s best looking Indian, and instantly superior to Warsaw’s more shabby curry houses. The tikka masala is love at first bite, though the spice lever on the Madras needs jacking up. $$

Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067. Open 12:00-23:00. Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $

Samira (C7) Al. Niepodległości 213 (behind the National Library), tel. 22 825 0961, www.samira.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00.

If you make the effort to find it, you’ll spot ambassadors, celebrities and artists scarfing down their excellent Lebanese kofta. Here you will find chickpeas, tahini paste, bulgar

Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774.

It’s through happy little tears the Insider declares Curry House as the overall victor in the local curry wars. The eye-watering vindaloo stands apart as Warsaw’s most macho curry, and the others don’t disappoint either. With this quality on show, it’s easy to

INDIAN

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RESTAURANTS Cheap Eats

ignore the primary design, drawn out waiting times and lunar location. $

version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $

Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $

Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Wildly inconsistent in terms of food and service. At a recent convention of the New Warsaw Curry Club the jalfrezi went untouched and murgh hara masala didn’t fare better.

Nonetheless, the madras was declared Warsaw’s best and the murgh makhanawala destroyed in minutes. Design-wise, the chic dark décor places it a cut above most of the competition. $$

Parivar al. Waszyngtona 75, tel. 22 393 4104. Open 11:00-22:00. The squid sizzler has the taste and texture of chewing gum, and the vindaloo is cunningly disguised as a bowl of red water with some chicken floating in it. “I get better curry on the oil rigs,” opined the Insider’s balti expert. For all of that, the biggest disappointment is Parivar’s apparent success. $

Fabryka Frytek ul. Złota 3, Open Mon-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato served come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $ Meat Love ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, www. meatlove.pl. Open Mon-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. An eco-minded sandwich stop, this intimate basement has a smart wooden look and friendly staff notable for their daring body art. The home-baked baguettes are the star, and come with a range of organic ingredients complimented with thick cuts of top quality animal. $ Pan Ziemniak Al. Jana Pawła II 41A. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00. With a custom-made cast iron potato oven and a menu that changes daily it’s not hard to see the draw. There’s usually about 16 toppings chalked up on the board, and these range from norm (tuna mayo) to the unexpected (chicken curry). $ Mr Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 888 021 888. Lurking amid the side streets of Powiśle, the pancakes here are brilliant and come with a heap of toppings and funny faces traced into them with icing sugar. Who cares if the staff wander around like they’ve just smoked a bong – it’s great. $ Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134.

Open 11:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-19:00. Authentic German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh bread.

The currywurst is fabulous, and there’s also Belgian-style fries. $

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Himalaya Momo (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 36. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 10:00-22:00. There’s only four tables here, so don’t linger. The size means several staples have been cut from the menu, among them naan bread – there’s no space for a tandoor over, you see. What kind of Indian restaurant forgets a tandoor oven? In this case, a very good one. What does appear on the Tibetan / Indian menu is usually delicious. $ India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www.indiacurry.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

They’ve changed management once again, and that’s to the detriment of the restaurant.

Once the corporate choice for when suits wanted it hot, the gradual decline has extended to the décor – looking dark and tired it’s a shadow (literally) of its former self. $$ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:0021:00. Whether the Madras is Poland’s hottest curry is a moot point (we say not). What isn’t up for debate is its popularity. Keen portions ensure you’ll be leaving with a doggy bag, and while we’ve yet to have anything outstanding, neither have we experienced anything under par. Internet ordering and delivery through their India Express catering service. $ Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl.

Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest

Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices.pl.

Open 11:00-23:00. Set on two floors Saffron has a menu more limited than most, though they have at least finally introduced alcohol.

The murgh makhani is fiercely inconsistent, and the chicken, in the words of one reader, ‘strange’. Nonetheless, we like it – when the chef does get it right, this place scores well. $$

INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 12 Stolików (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 519 151 504. Open 9:00-23:00. Affecting a boutique style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that promotes cooking as a form of theater.

The menu is chalked on a board, and while alio olio was overcooked, the big guns came out for the steak: a very decent piece of meat. Enjoyable enough, though nothing particularly memorable. $$

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Akademia ul. Różana 2, tel. 22 828 99 11. Open 12:0024:00. Actor Borys Szyc enters the restaurant trade with the launch of this restaurant, a beautiful space composed of white brickwork and an intimate mezzanine with banquettes and some hammock style seats. The cooking has been left to Grzegorz Nowakowski (formerly of Amber Room), and his menu is as artful as one expects – for instance, pumpkin soup with ginger and coconut foam. Already a haunt of the rich and famous, we’ll be going undercover there next issue. $$ Bistecca ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www.bistecca.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

A warm and welcoming meat-themed restaurant, featuring one of the largest pieces

of steak we’ve ever seen. But if you don’t fancy being chef for the night, stay away from the mixed grill – after a few moments of confusion we realized we were meant to finish the cooking process ourselves; a novel idea, but not what we had in mind when we went out for the evening. $$

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A Nóż ul. Różana 30, tel. 608 386 388. Open 9:0023:00. A truly global offering, with elements of Asia, Europe and America all incorporated into the menu. ‘A Jack of all trades, master of none,’ you might think. You’d be wrong.

Burgers, pastas, Asian-inspired salads, and pizzas are represented, and while some need fine-tuning, the overall impression is positive and optimistic. Paired with a cool, typically Warsaw interior (unfinished ceilings, a communal table, bare light bulbs), it appears the owners have a success story in the making. $ Bistro Warszawa (B1) ul. Jezuicka 1, tel. 22 635 3769, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini.

The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw crowds from across the city. $$ Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of riverside parkland – perfect for lazy Sundays with family and friends.

Freshly re-opened after a winter break, during which time Chef Luc has traveled the Mediterranean sourcing the best ingredients and snooping out new recipes. $$

surfaces and zinc mirrors. The menu changes daily, and on the Insider’s visit included outstanding Fine de Claire oysters on a bed of fennel. The English influence of an owner who once managed The Grill at London’s Dorchester Hotel, shines through on Friday when dishes like fish & chips are served. $$$

Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel 523 749 160. Open 12:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-6:00; Sun 14:00-24:00.

With white tiles, an artsy carpentered bar and draftsman desk lamps hanging from the walls, Bufet certainly gets points for design.

The Hungarian fish soup is delicious, while the chocolate soufflé is airy, gooey and all things nice. But choice diminishes quickly – get there early to order the ribs. $$

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Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www.butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. The most talked about restaurant of 2011 shows no sign of waning.

Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach, and commonly considered the best in the city. In the evening, reservations remain recommended. $$ Brasserie Warszawska ul. Górnośląska 24, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00.A posh looking bistro whose credentials are supported by crisp shirted staff, gleaming

Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373. Open 12:0023:00. Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct, five course set lunch menus from zł. 50. Modern designer dining BEST WAWA 2012 rarely gets better. $$$ “Restaurant for a Business Meeting” Winner, “Restaurant Design” Winner Delikatesy Esencja (F7) ul. Marszałkowska 8, tel. 22 480 8018, www.delies.pl. Open 8:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 8:002:00; Sun 8:00-23:00. A long, narrow space that’s a mix of bar, restaurant and ‘culture’ cafe – only this looks better than most. No second hand collectibles here, just a cool look accented by concrete colors and overhead pipes. The menu is a creative, light bite affair with dishes like gyutataki served to a hip crowd who’ve outgrown nearby Plan B. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business

AUTHENTIC GERMAN & BAVARIAN CUISINE ul. Mokotowska 69 00-530 Warszawa tel. 022 628 73 84 www.adlerrestauracja.pl

We also offer catering and organize special events From Mon-Fri: lunch 19PLN

Be our guest!

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RESTAURANTS Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Appealing to the serious spender, the US Longhorn (a cool zł.

185) is utterly unforgettable. Try it with orange whiskey sauce. $$$

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Duchnicka Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, duchnickawinebar.com. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. Filling the boots of outgoing chef Joseph Seeletso is Michał Budnik, a rising star with a bright future ahead. The thrilling menu includes cappuccino soup, and a totally triumphant T-Bone. $$

Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www.flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00.

A superb eatery seemingly styled by Ralph Lauren. Winning rave reviews across the board, find a strong international offering and

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even a small playground in the park that it views. $$

GR Bistro & Restaurant (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), tel. 22 828 4285, www.grbistro.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00. Tucked next to the Wedel chocolate palace, GR isn’t short on charm and intimacy. Step upstairs where the restaurant unfolds into an attractive area set out with leather chairs and vintage photography. With little more than four mains ever appearing on the card the menu can’t be accused of showboating; the dishes that do make it on though win universal praise – the chicken medallions come served with lime sauce and fresh figs, and the combination works excellently. $$

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La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel),

tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com.

Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. That the head chef, Paweł Oszczyk, came within a whisker of pipping Wojciech Amaro in the Best Chef category of our 2012 awards says a lot. And he’s not the only star on the pay roll: there’s also Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier. Mixing ‘French techniques, Polish products and Italian influences’, Oszczyk’s menu is built for superlatives. The venison is magnificent, and on our visit came served by Poland’s most theatrical waiter – BEST someone, give him a TV show. $$$ WAWA 2012 “Hotel Restaurant” Winner Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This former bath house is adorned by columns and hand-painted glazed ceramics. A fine menu of fusion fare with an ‘artsy flair’ is guaranteed, with creative desserts to follow with. Over 300 Italian wine labels (not to mention tipples from Spain,

France and Austria), as well a selection of cigars make Concept a number one choice for that all important meal. $$$

Moonsfera ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4, tel. 22 560 3733, www.moonsfera.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. You’ll find fancy-looking Moonsfera at the top of the Olympic Center, and the panoramic views figure high on the draw. The international menu is an explosion of creativity, with dishes including duck breast served with ginger and carrot puree, caramelized pear and fig and cherry/thyme sauce. $$ Nolita ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita. pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00. A swank center restaurant anchored on the skills of Jacek Grochowina – a young talent who honed his skills at the London Ritz. Looking chic and high end, we enjoyed Tournedos Rossini: a victorious dish comprised of dainty pink meat, black truffles, foie gras and pureed potatoes served in a cast iron pot. Heaven. And order the sorbet.

Dusted with a secret cosmic ingredient, first taste gives an intense fizzy sensation that’s utterly unexpected. One of the top dining rooms in Poland. $$$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 794 16 019, www.nowakuznia.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest. Mere steps from Wilanów’s 18th Century church, this former blacksmiths passes muster with excellent steak and a cocktail list invented by Richard Winkler – former mastermind of Paparazzi and Porto Praga. The fish too is fantastic and fresh, meaning even without their clincher – the summer garden – it’s very much a destination to follow. $$ Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 621 1881. Open 10:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Are you in a restaurant or inside a book shop? The mind plays tricks in Opasły, the latest venture from the Kregliccy family (Santorini, Chianti etc).

Filled with hardback volumes and newspaper clippings, this trendy Foksal spot features a concise menu that includes chili shrimp. $$ Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat

12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. Looking like a business class waiting lounge, it’s easy to overlook Passe Partout – more so now the beautiful back garden is closed off for winter.

But you’d be a fool to do so. Unassuming it might be, but there’s something clearly very right with the kitchen. The diverse international menu has too many positives to count, though the Insider recommends the pork tenderloin: served with a blue cheese and balsamic sauce, it’s a plate licking meal. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, Frida Restaurant - but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed.

An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$

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Porto Praga (F1) ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00. Two private dining rooms and a more public space await at Porto Praga, a ruby tinted venue with mild Art Deco undertones.

The chef’s philosophy is to maintain the natural flavor of ingredients and dishes, and each Thursday and Friday sees fish given an added platform. Pair the food with over 30 different wines available by the glass. $$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl.

Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$ R20 (F5-6) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295. Open 7:3022:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. This top-notch, casually elegant restaurant offers a concise, tantalizing selection of food with signature recipes from the head chef. Strongly recommended is the mouth-watering baked duck with orange and homemade ravioli. $$

ul. Rozbrat 20 00-447 Warszawa tel: +48 (22) 628 02 95 www.rozbrat20.pl

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Brought to you by Le Cedre

In Love with Lebanon As of April, both branches of Le Cedre mark spring fever with a range of daily promotions. We talk to Tony Nasr, the Lebanese native behind it all.

WI: You opened Le Cedre 84 this time last year.

How’s it gone so far, and what’s the difference between the original, Le Cedre 61?

TN: Anyone can open a restaurant, the challenge is keeping it open and serving the same high quality. Le Cedre 84 is one year old, but Le Cedre 61 is 17 this summer! Yes, 17 years on the market. The newer one has a look that fuses modern with the traditional, while 61 is more eastern, with its pillows and canvases. But the food is essentially the same, which means customers have a choice between the atmosphere of their preference, and the location convenient to them, while at the same time enjoying the same food. Recently, we had a couple who had lunch in 84, and then dinner in 61!

You’re selling your hummus for zł. 1 on select days – what’s the thinking behind that?

Hummus is the most popular dip in Lebanese cuisine, and I want everyone to try it: to taste the authentic stuff.

The process of preparing it takes around 40 hours: you soak the chickpeas for 36 hours and then comes the delicate job of removing the skin. That’s what makes the difference. So by dropping the prices to a crazy level I’m hoping people discover the real deal and fall in love with it.

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Talking of crazy, you’re the first restaurant in Poland to do the Harlem Shake on YouTube!

Ha! Yeah, we just did it to get away from the daily routine.

Every now and again you need to leave the stresses behind and get a little crazy, taste the exotic and have some Lebanese food! We reached 1,500 hits in 14 days, now we’re aiming for a million views!

When we think of Lebanese food, we think of Tabbouleh…

It’s a must! In Lebanon we eat it every day. It’s made of simple, healthy ingredients (parsley, tomatoes, onions, bourgoul, lemon juice and olive oil), and it’s so easy to do – and perfect if you’ve got high cholesterol and triglyceride. Anyone can make it, but it’s all about keeping the same level of consistency. Our customers reckon ours has tasted the same for 17 years, and that’s the difference between ours and the stuff you might get elsewhere.

vinegar. Try them both in Le Cedre 61 every weekend. We have also got couscous days: Tuesdays at 61 and Wednesdays at 84.

You’ve got other promotions that don’t involve food. Spill the beans…

Each Friday Le Cedre 61 will have ‘1001 Night’. Well, we’ve always had a belly dancer, and I just thought we’d introduce something else to go alongside – a henna artist, for instance, or a fortune teller who’ll read your cup after you’ve drank a Lebanese coffee. If you’re a group, and book in advance, you’ll have the option of choosing the entertainment in advance. Then, on Sunday’s, we’ll hold brunch at Le Cedre 84 – and there’ll be plenty of healthy food and entertainment for kids!

Are your promotions here to stay?

Let’s see how it goes. If something isn’t popular, of course, we’ll create a better offer. At the end of the day, we’re here to serve the public, so we need to tailor our promotions to suit demand.

Something that will definitely stay are the 30% discounts on food all day on Monday, and 30% off lunch from Tuesday to Friday.

What about Moughrabieh and Mloukhia – we’ve never heard of them!

They’re really popular in the Arabic world, but you won’t For fully updated information about what promotion is on, and where, have seen them served in Poland before. Moughrabieh is an oversized version of couscous cooked with broth and chicken. check www.lecedre.pl or www.facebook.com/lecedrepl As for Mloukhia, it's made from mallow leaves and cooked and al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 89 99; al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 11 66. served with rice, chicken and lamb and topped with onion in

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RESTAURANTS *

Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit.

No longer the top dog for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$

SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 600 806 084. Bistro, bakery, hangout. However you choose to label SAM, it’s the talk of the town. Noisy Charlotte won all the press last summer, this time round

its SAM. The cooling concrete interiors buzz throughout the day, with touches like communal tables well suited to the ascetic style.

Owned by the same lot in charge of 6/12, there’s a similar commitment to good, healthy eating employed here. $$ Signature ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, www. signaturerestaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

With cutlery from Eternum, original Marilyn photos shot by Milton Greene, columns and reliefs from the days this was the Soviet Embassy and 1950s Oswald chairs, it sure looks the part. The menu is contemporary but never flamboyant, with our meal including

Burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. Now settled in newer, bigger digs, what had finished summer as Warsaw’s favorite burger has taken the foot off the gas. The offer has been increased but, so it seems, at the cost of the quality. Nonetheless, try the Muppet – served on wooden trays, it’s a messy affair loaded with salsa, jalapenos and BBQ sauce. $ Brooklyn Burgers & Wings ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 270 2144. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00. Warsaw’s love affair with burgers gets stronger with the opening of Brooklyn. With the best location of the lot, and a young American chef doing the biz in the kitchen, this is not just another copycat. Homemade sauces, wings, ribs, strips and beer (inc.

Sam Adams!), make this so much more than just another burger joint. $ Burgerator (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B, tel. 533 626 242. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-20:00. Penetrate the office/residential complex that’s sprung up around Żaryna to find Burgerator, a cheerful burger bar with a pop art touch and burgers that reflect the slavish perfectionism of the owner. A great place, and if we’re to believe the rumors, the first of many Burgerator’s that will appear around town – good news for all. $ Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 74/80 (enter from Olkuska).

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Open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00. Hands down the sort of burger Thurman and Travolta would chow in Pulp Fiction. Decorative elements don’t go beyond tables and chairs (of which there aren’t many), and waiting times can drive you nuts – as can the tramps who stagger past to the nearby bottle bank. The burgers though are a different class. $ Lokal Bistro ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64.

Open 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-1:00.

Dentist colors and voluminous ceilings lend an austere but pleasant look to this Polish-style burger bar. Sit outside at the woodchip tables (oww! watch for splinters…) to enjoy burgers that incorporate Polish Red Angus, Baltic cod and mountain cheese. Our tip: order a towering double burger with red onion marmalade and homemade ketchup.

Delivered on a thick wooden board it’s completely delightful – if not a little messy. By the end of the meal the table will look like you’ve just given birth. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-19:00. Forget Year of the Dragon, 2012 was Year of the Burger – or more specifically, Year of the WarBurger. Edging the competition, this diminutive little cabin wins eulogies across the board for base-level prices, super friendly service and pimped up burgers that use gourmet ingredients. $

tuna tataki for starter and a pink duck breast for main. Both were excellent, and exactly what one expects from Poland’s top hotel. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec. waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a SwissPolish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $ Soul Kitchen ul. Noakowsiego 16, tel. 519 020 888, www. soulkitchen.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Set over two dining rooms the design is elegantly uncluttered: raw brick and vanilla colors. The menu is concise, but involves lots of ingredients picked from the finest local producers - some of it custom-grown especially for them.

This is contemporary Polish / international cuisine whose presentation is magnificent. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43. pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. With a location looking at the Chopin Museum you may assume this place is all about boring food at tourist prices. Wrong. Chic and shiny, and with a cool glass frontage, chef Robert – a veteran of the El Bulli kitchen – does the rest with delicate dishes that could pass for art. $$

ITALIAN Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 22 635 8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl. Open 10:0023:00. It’s been years since we heard great words about Arse, and while the food remains fine there’s a distinct impression that their finest hour has long since passed.

A great play area for kids, it’s still not a bad option if you’re heading from Old Town with accompanying bambinos. $$ Bacio ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, www.bacio.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00.

Under new management the new look Bacio has been decluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look

and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top eats in town. $$ Bacio Angelo (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 22 622 4454, www.bacio. pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:00-last guest; Fri & Sat 11:00-last guest. With a charming folklore interior, the candlelight will lead you into a world of sweet romance. The delicate antipasti and Italian merlot will certainly ease you into good conversation. $$

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Casa Italia ul. Świętojerska 7, tel. 22 860 02 50, www. casa-italia.pl . Open Mon 12:00-18:00; Tue-Sun 12:00-23:00. Safe in the hands of Roberto Gustalla, customers buy into the full modern Italian experience here: quality food paired with wines for the moment.

Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www.delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-

RISTORANTE SAN LORENZO

22:00. The reasons for Delizia’s success are twofold: Luca and Lorenzo. Luca’s the front man, a charismatic chap and natural showman. In his hands, you’ll feel like a star.

Then there’s Lorenzo, the chef out the back.

Between the pair of them they’ve turned this tiny little venue into Warsaw’s most convincing Italian enterprise. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, tasteful interiors and brilliant food: what more do you need? $$$

last guest. You’d never guess from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining. Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show.

The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$

Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$

La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86. Open 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. On the right day you’ll find the ex-pat proprietors of Warsaw’s more refined Italian eateries using this for their pizza fix. It might not look like much, but its reputation speaks for itself. $

Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27. Open 13:00-

AL. JANA PAWŁA II 36

La Tomatina (D4) ul. Krucza 47. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00. Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from splendid pizzas served in a modern

TEL. 22 652 1616 WWW.SANLORENZO.PL facebook.com/warsawinsider

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RESTAURANTS interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. The spicy tiger prawn spaghetti is also great, even if the presentation looks like a student cooked it. $ L’Olivo (B4) ul. Żelazna 59A, tel. 784 442 240. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:30; Sun 13:00-22:00.

The menu is cheaper and less extravagant, but the level of passion is equal – from the makers of Delizia comes L’Olivo, an informal looking spot with fantastic pizzas using the same quality, import products and a range of other authentic choices. The affogato is not to be missed. $

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Mąka i Woda ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87. Open 17:00-22:00. Stop press! Here’s one more candidate for Warsaw’s best pizza. Made using Stefano Ferrara Napoli ovens, and top quality ingredients (Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Caputo flour, etc.), expect to be hearing a lot about MiW in the coming months.

Great stuff, with a good line in homemade pastas and sides also featuring. $ Mamma Marietta (C10) ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071. Open 12:00-22:00. Famed in ex-pat circles, head chef Andrea (formerly of Da Aldo) has

created a bright bijou eatery that’s openly regarded as one of the finest and most authentic Italian experiences in Poland. The seafood has a particularly stellar reputation, as does the smattering of Sicilian dishes. $$ Mezzo Italian Steakhouse ul. Sienkiewicza 5 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 756 3343. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00. Tucked at the tip of Konstancin’s park, Mezzo’s wood-burning brick pizza oven constructed in the garden gets all the thumbs up. Also novel to the community is a chance to enjoy top-notch beef – using filet from Poland and T-bones

Food, libation, atmosphere and joviality. We all deserve and need to nourish the body as well as the soul – and The Luncheonettes are here to help you do just that.

Po Prostu Zachęta pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77. Open Mon-Fri 10:0020:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00.

S

undays for Luncheonettes are most likely to be spent in a museum and a downtown eatery. If the two are in close proximity, all the better. So hats off to Zachęta, Warsaw’s premiere contemporary art museum, for creating the perfect Sunday outing.

Open since mid-February, the bistro Po Prostu Zachęta belies its newness. Its location in the lower level of the museum has been completely renovated. Despite the grand vaulted ceiling, the restaurant offers a sense of substantial privacy to diners with tables nestled beside major columns in the dining room. They appear to have room to grow with a foyer and garden space for the future.

This is owner Darek Ryniec’s second foray into the business. The 37 year old former actor and English teacher cut his teeth on the original Po Prostu bistro in Mokotów, which is a quirky mix-up of a place with celebrity clientele and moms on the run, cool art for sale and eclectic live music in the evenings. With the first of his fledgling franchise, always bustling and inviting from early morning to night, Darek went beyond mere eatery and succeeded in cultivating a

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home away from home.

Zachęta’s recent remodeling deserved this type of good food partner. Selected after a lengthy competition, the restaurant model has been tweaked to accommodate the personality of its location, making it a bit more sophisticated but still cozy. Presuming that the client base will consist of more foreigners, the set lunch menu (zł. 29, on weekdays: a choice of soup and main) emphasizes Polish cuisine while offering a main menu that is definitely trendy European.

With dishes all but licked clean, we savored “Polish light” for lunch with slender goląbki (stuffed cabbage). They were not too dense, almost fluffy, and covered in a subtle tomato broth-like sauce. The barszcz Ukrainian-style (which is code for ‘with stuff’) was a meal in itself, with hunks of beef, broad beans, cabbage and tomatoes invigorated with allspice balls and marjoram. The staff is quick and polite, all well-trained professionals. Manager Lidwina Glińska is bursting with enthusiasm and graciousness. The kitchen is fast, serving up scrumptious dishes without missing a beat.

While there, don’t miss taking a wander through this purposebuilt, pre-war urban palace. Zachęta’s current extensive exhibit, The Splendor of Textiles (through till May 19), is particularly good for families. Then sneak back for dessert.

from Irish Hereford cattle, Mezzo’s newly designed kitchen uses a lava grill to ensure excellence each time. $$ Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Design doesn’t figure highly here, instead the onus is on food – the salads are good, but the pizzas even better; maybe even the best in the city. Who says so? Only about a zillion Italians who order from here. $ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00.

The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Pomidoro (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702 8777. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An authentic Italian restaurant located in a renovated paper mill.

Chef Ricardo whips up some of the best pizzas, pastas and steaks you’ll find in this city. Try the spaghetti alle vongole or the bistecca alla fiorentina for a real taste of Tuscany. $$

Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3)

Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest. Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$ Rossopomodoro (C4) Złote Tarasy, tel. 22 222 0550, www.rusticoni. pl. Italian specialities, right in the heart of Warsaw. Choose from a wide variety of pizzas and pastas, as well as an assortment of meat

and fish dishes, and a range of desserts, including home-made tiramisu. $ Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00.

Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side. The M.O is very much the same, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $ Venti-tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. The high class confines of the Hyatt are the home of Venti Tre, a contemporary restaurant with an open kitchen, and a Mediterranean inspired menu constructed using carefully sourced ingredients from local suppliers. The results are outstanding. $$$ Vera Italia (Ochota) ul. Sąchocka 5, tel. 22 823 8380, www.veraitalia.pl. Open 11:30-23:00. Where

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RESTAURANTS Warsaw’s Italian and other expats craving the real thing gather for Italian food. Note that its popularity makes booking ahead a must. $$

JAPANESE & SUSHI Art Sushi (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 22 621 7720, www.artsushi.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The restaurant is charming, modern and peaceful. The menu is strictly Japanese/Korean, but is a good starting-point for sushi first-timers. $$

Hana Sushi (A1) al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), www.hanasushi. pl. Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955.

Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00).

Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. It's an old-timer, but it's still up there as a real contender. $$

Akashia (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0333, www.akashia.pl. The glory years are over, especially if a visit to the Złote Tarasy outpost is anything to go by. We like our duck to be crispy, but this could have been blowtorched – we didn’t need chopsticks, we needed a chisel. The W.C could benefit from a lick of paint and all. $$

Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu.

Open 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$

Besuto (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 828 0020, www.besuto.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. After years trading in one of the grubby pavilions behind Nowy Świat, Besuto have upped chopsticks and moved onto Nowy Świat itself. The sushi is as good as ever, only now so are the views. You’d have expected the prices to climb north to reflect the change in address: they haven’t. $$

Kaizen ul. Świetlicowa 7/9 (Konstancin), tel. 607 128 840. Open 12:00-22:00.

Dark woods and orchids warm the characteristically minimal Japanese design.

The traditional sushi is delicious; however they also step in uncommon directions as they cater to Western tastes, with additional sauces, innovative inclusions and elegant plate ensembles. $$

Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. If there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, it was Sakana. Many claim it’s the best in the city, a stand that’s hard to dispute. Practice nimble chopstick moves among other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi Club ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 114 1414. Open 12:0023:00. A couple of dining rooms to choose from, including one found in a restorative salt cave. The lack of English on the menu may leave you bamboo-zled, but the overall quality is rewarding. We keep coming back for the salmon nigri and tuna hosomaki. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00.

The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle. Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent.

While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

JEWISH Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00.

Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them frequently at war with the people they serve. $ Rambam ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 243 2693, www.rambamrestaurant.pl. Open Sun-Fri 11:30-23:00. Kosher-certified, though by

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no means the exclusive domain of the Israeli coachloads who tour the district. A chic look with Middle Eastern accents is paired off with exotic dishes that include a lamb burger with red onion chutney and mint sauce. $$

LATIN Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 1020, www.aioli-cantine.com. Open 9:00-last guest.

A jaunty Mediterranean space with hanging meats and long communal tables, Aioli has a decent offer of sandwiches, breakfasts, pastas and burgers. The mango-turkey burger is worth your consideration. $$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

A lasting legend and something of a favorite for after-work informal drinks, though recent reconnaissance has revealed plenty of deficiencies – our burrito was tiny, and not so much over-cooked as blowtorched: if it’d been human, you’d have needed dental records to identify it. Service can be calamitous, making the 10% added to the bill the subject of hot debate. $$

a duck breast burger with Mahon cheese, raspberry ketchup and truffle sauce. Servings are small and precise, but even so, we like what we see. $$ El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistently inconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$ Frida Nowy Świat (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. 691 343 434. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00.

They’ve sussed the design and the location, but the food is more Pol-Mex than Tex-Mex. Bland flavors and tame salsas don’t encourage return visits. $$ Ole Tapas ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, www.ole-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for.

Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$

Pico Cuadro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 81, tel. 22 826 1524, www.picocuadro.pl. Open 10:00-23:00.

When it comes to their excellent beef manager Francisco gives credit to both the Argentinean origin of his selections and the knowledgeable hand of his chef who spent twelve years Carmona cooking in Spain. But best is dessert – a divine ul. K. Chodkiewicza 3, tel. 22 414 19 19, www. chocolate mousse torte on a delicate cookie carmona.pl. Open 11:00-22:00. Set in an crust made in house. Not too sweet, not too increasingly happening section of new money thick, just right! Although not as free with Mokotów, find the daily tapas chalked up on a foreign flavors or combinations as it could be, it blackboard inside a modern interior featuring remains one to watch. $$ top-to-bottom windows and industrial The Mexican (E4) touches hanging overhead. They’ve got the ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 22 826 9021, www.mexican. tapas down to a tee. $$ pl. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00. Style-wise this place is fab, complete with an adobe courtyard and Corona chandeliers. But the authenticity crashes Casa Pablo (C3) into calamity with the food, which frequently ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5782. Open appears as a mysterious gloop served with Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-18:00. mashed cabbage. The locals love it. $$ Set to the flank of a glinting office building, Casa Pablo touts an interesting design POLISH composed of tartan colors, upturned wine crates and a mirror that we’re told is over a century old. But if you think that’s interesting, Ale Gloria (E5) then take a look at the menu. Modeled round Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Who the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, dishes said romance was dead? Here wedding white include scallop carpaccio with foie gras, and

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REDISCOVER PIĘKNA BISTRO ON PIĘKNA 20!

Pristine interiors juxtapose steel and concrete against dark, warm woods and a burning fireplace lending our venue an amazing character.

Blending modernity and style, the interiors are reflected by an international menu, a carefully selected wine list and beautiful music.

Come by in the morning for hot baguettes and fresh coffee, a laid back lunch, or in the evening, when lights dim and the mood slows down.

For years Piękna Bistro has been a popular jazz spot, and at our concerts you’ll find young talents and celebrities, guaranteeing unforgettable memories.

Bistro Piękna ul. Piękna 20 Tel. 22 627 4151 piekna@jazzone.pl, www.jazzone.pl

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RESTAURANTS colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E5)

Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.amberroom.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:0022:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00.

The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure.

Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$

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Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www.aterlieramaro.pl. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30. The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier has no rival – this is the best restaurant in the country, bar none. Find a tasting menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques (e.g. blasts of nitrogen), with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre molecular interludes (aloe leaves, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro.

BEST Reservations mandatory. $$$ WAWA 2012 “Contemporary Polish” Winner, New Restaurant” Winner, “Best Chef” Winner Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841,

www.bazyliszek.waw.pl. Open 11:00-24:00.

Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $ Belvedere Restaurant (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold and black interiors. $$$

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Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics. $ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$

Bistroteka ul. Widok 8, tel. 602 239 528. Open Mon-Sat 8:30-23:00. Young talent Adam Leszczyński embraces slow food techniques here, using top notch seasonal produce to create a

Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are pre-

Al. Solidarności 84 . 22 61 88 999 lecedre84@lecedre.pl

30% OFF for all dishes Mon - Fri 12 pm - 4 pm @61 & 84

Royal Couscous Tue @84 Wed @61 since 1997

Bistro Warszawa (B1) ul. Jezuicka 1, tel. 22 635 3769, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini.

The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw crowds from across the city. $$

Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www.bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese.

And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 460 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$

Al. Solidarności 61 . 22 670 11 66 lecedre@lecedre.pl

30% OFF for all dishes all day Mon @61 & 84

well-designed offer of contemporary classics.

Full report next issue. $$

Family Lunch Buffet Animations for Kids Sun @84 Hommous for 1PLN Tue @61 Wed @84

www.lecedre.pl

mium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Dyspensa (E5-6) ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 22 629 9989, www.dyspensa.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Back after a refit, Dyspensa now looks altogether sharper, cosmopolitan even.

There’s great people watching to be had from the raised window seating, and a menu of fine Polish fare with international accents. $$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight.

The seminal Polish village experience is recreated in Folk Gospoda, a simple, rustic restaurant who put a stress on using locally sourced produce and homemade condiments like bread and preserves. Clad in wood and farmyard debris, the menu is a hefty collection of pierogi, game and macho meaty fare. Look no further if you want authentic, big hearted food the way it’s served up in the mountains and down in the villages. $$

Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. A relic of late 90s Warsaw, consider Kredens a fallen giant. Everything here is stuck in the past – once edgy, the awkward interiors now resemble a tacky mistake. The menu is a dud as well: a jack of all trades, but master of none.

Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares would have a field day. $$ Honoratka (C2) ul. Miodowa 14, tel. 22 635 0397, www.honoratka.com.pl. Open daily 12:00last guest. This place has been around since 1826 and has played host to many famous guests, including Chopin. Honoratka serves delicious traditional Polish dishes and international courses. Live music every day from 18:00. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Recently voted as one of the 25 most

interesting restaurants in the world! And we’re not surprised – bathed in red banners and propaganda paintings, the Red Hog is your one stop shop for some socialist socializing: while Marx and Co. never actually ate here (as their menu claims), lads like Bruce Willis and Lennox Lewis have. The menu is comically split between dishes for the proletariat and for dignitaries, and is an experience in itself. $$

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Kuchnia Funkcjonalna ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), tel. 512 893 898. Open 11:00-23:00. Snuck inside one of Saska’s definitive modernist buildings, the opening of Kuchnia has made slow food accessible to all wallets. Venison from the Bieszczady Mountains, dairy products from Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics; the frequently changing menu reflects the commitment to nature. The ascetic design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, spring glow. $$ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2)

POLISH DELICACIES: - Home-made bread - Polish style duck from the oven - Polish fish - Polish seasoned beef steaks ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45 00-071 Warszawa tel. 22 826 47 70 info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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RESTAURANTS ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Touting a refined, baronial setting, Rożana has starchy white linen, floral pieces and flickering candles, giving off plenty of classic charm in the best possible taste.

With indulgent mains such as farmhouse duck with apple and cranberry, or saddle of venison with homemade pickle, this is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the BEST WAWA 2012 “Polish top table. $$ with Style” Winner Rialto’s Restaurant (D5)

ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto Boutique Hotel), tel. 22 584 8771. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-22:30; Sat-Sun 7:00-22:30. Bathed in toffee and vanilla hues, the restaurant in this Art Deco hotel has a solid claim as one of the top meals around. The pan-seared duck breast with honey pumpkin and figs is every bit as inspired as it sounds. $$$ Słony (D5) ul. Piękna 11, tel. 22 629 0364. Open Mon-Wed 8:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 8:00-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-23:00. The design is kitsch but classy, with mirrored touches and striped wallpaper set against upside down lamps and nudes of Josephine Baker. Polish canapés costing zł. 8 are stored behind glass counters here, and make for great bargain snacking – the eggplant is delicious. $ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians.

Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$ U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. You find yourself in the thick of the action here, with diners planted in the kitchen area of the former Hotel Europejski. There’s a great

atmosphere of orchestrated chaos here, and the chefs love a bit of showmanship – expect Ramsay-style fireworks and tantrums when the orders start coming thick and fast. The food is textbook Polish, with steak tartare BEST WAWA hailed around Warsaw. $$ 2012 “Welcome to Poland” Winner U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www. uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. The place is named after a tubby fictional Czech soldier, but the grub is hearty Polish, XXXL portions at bargain prices. At zł. 15 per litre of beer, the mugs are constantly refilled to wash down the feast of sausages, ribs and pork knuckles. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, ul. Podwale 1, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, ul. Wańkowicza 1, www.zapiecek.eu. Open 11:00-22:00. Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

SCANDINAVIAN Nabo

THE VERY BEST

OF ITALY! ITALIAN RESTAURANT

FROM 11:00AM TO 11:00 PM ZŁOTE TARASY, PIAZZA, LEVEL -1. ENTRY FROM EMILII PLATER STREET TEL: 22 222 05 50 EMAIL: RESTAURACJA@ROSSOPOMODORO.COM.PL

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WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2013

ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256.

Open Mon-Fri: 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:0021:30. The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively BEST concocted ingredients. Fantastic. $$ WAWA 2012 “Most Kid Friendly Restaurant” Winner

SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www.biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00.

Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import

brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804.

British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items inc. Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc.

Food & Joy ul. Nowy Świat 7, www.foodandjoy.eu. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-17:00. A new, upmarket deli chain from the same team behind Krakowski Kredens and Alma.

Le Diplomat ul. Meksykańska 6, tel. 22 616 0539.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00.

Long regarded as the best butcher in town, as well as the number one source for lamb.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com.

pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www.lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Thur 9:0020:00; Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 11:30-16:00. Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, grourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl.

Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets.

Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license,

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RESTAURANTS tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves.

Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service.

Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, coffee from Florence and Olives from Puglia. And not just Italian: find a range of foods from both Spain and France.

BEST WAWA 2012 “Gourmet Grocery” Winner Polna Market ul. Polna 13, Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get

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treasured goods from the West. Find a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butcher, and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables, but at a cost.

WHOLE FOODS Surya (C1) ul. Wałowa 3, tel. 22 635 81 39, www.restauracja-surya.pl. Open Tue-Sat 12:0022:00. Found down in a former nuclear shelter this basement restaurant looks like a hobbit’s hideout, with lots of clunky timber doors leading down mysterious passages. Everything served is raw, and on the occasions they do use an oven it’s maintained under 42°C to keep all nutrients and enzymes alive. The raw pizza is better than anything you get at Domino’s, and the zucchini lasagna a brilliant surprise. Great list of smoothies, as well. $

COOKING SCHOOLS

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Cook Up Studio

ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, www.cookup.pl. Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Themes from March included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

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Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, www.jospehseeletso.pl. A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailor-made courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself.

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Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, www.schelleracademy.pl. Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all levels of competency.

Reviews: Traffic Cafe 51 / Plus:

* 5 updates

CAFÉS & WINE BARS CAFES 51 / WINE BARS 55

KEY

Insider’s Pick

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

BOW 2012 Winner...........

Breakfast menu .............

Business meetings..........

Child friendly...................

Delivery.............................

Free wifi..............................

Map location pg. 78 ...... (A1) Romantic..........................

Vegetarian friendly...........

CAFÉS Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest.

There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100 year history. Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who had a fondness for their donuts.

Traffic Cafe ul. Bracka 25, tel. 22 692 1614. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00.

T

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

he cafe on top of the Traffic bookstore in the center of Warsaw is many things to me. It is a classroom (where I meet my Polish tutor), an office (free wi-fi and plenty of space), a meeting place and, most importantly, a place to relax and let time stand still.

Since I check out Traffic for new magazines and the latest books almost once a week, the Traffic Cafe has become almost an extension of my living room. I can sit on one of the big comfortable couches with a large latte, or at a private table to ponder some Polish homework, and find myself struggling from taking my shoes off and putting my feet up.

Besides the homey feel, there is also another comfort gained from being on the top floor of a huge building of books: it’s like I’m back at university.

As a regular, I have become very chatty (in Polish, but mostly in English) with the pleasant servers at the cafe. They pleasantly try to force Polish from me since they know I take classes there. I find this to be a welcoming change to all the despondent servers at chain cafes that seem to have a new server every week.

While reading the latest news online I sometimes need a snack to keep my attention at bay. My two recommendations for this are tosty which, although not an epicurean masterpiece, will remind you of something mom would make using a George Foremanstyle triangle sandwich maker. The other is the ciepło-ziemno desserts of ice cream and warm berries. If these don’t sound like much, the zł. 3 espresso coffee, zł. 5 teapot of Dilmah, and large assortment of beer might be a better recommendation to pass along.

But be warned if, after a large book heist at Traffic, the cafe bathroom is closed you need to get a token from the server to use the bathroom on the ground floor. To me, that’s never a problem, since a stroll past the magazine racks is a favorite thing of mine to do. (KD)

Bubbleology ul. Chmielna 26, www.bubbleology.pl.

Open 11:00-23:00. Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café. But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. ‘Bubble Tea’ is the beverage here, with an arsenal of fruit flavors made by zany lab coated staff.

Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00.

Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better.

Or looked better for that matter; still very much the choice haunt for the in-team.

Café Lorentz Al. Jerozolimskie 3. Open Mon 10:00-20:00; Tue-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Set at the front of the National Museum this place has a nice indoor area with high ceilings and minimalist decorations and a green outdoor

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TALK OF THE TOWN

WI: What convinced you to open the gallery and bar in a new location?

AC: Running a gallery is a great way to meet a variety of unique, independent-minded people, which gives us an incredible number of opportunities to understand the world in which we live. In short, having contact with contemporary art is the best way to understand yourself. Unfortunately, the environment in the market meant that after six years of the gallery on ul. Marszałkowska I needed to have a wider reach. I felt that the artists also realized that we needed that as well.

Have your expectations come true?

The opening of our new premises on ul. Sienkiewicza 4, in September 2012, coincided with Warsaw Gallery Weekend, an event that we organized together with

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PORTRAIT BY BEATA WIELGOSZ; MAKE UP: JACEK SZAWIOĹ A

Warsaw-based gallerist Aga Czarnecka talks to the Insider about her gallery, bar and involvement in the visual arts field.

colleagues from other galleries. We presented Sławomir Rumiak’s video installations, and Czarna was bursting at the seams that day to see one of the most on-trend video artists; we had more than 4,000 people inside, which is an amazing achievement for a private gallery in Poland. So, yes, I think that a change in the formula has taken the gallery in the right direction.

What else can people do at Czarna?

Once you’ve seen the art you can sit in a comfortable chair, have something good to eat, and drink a glass of wine. Now we have the art of living! It’s funny how it has modified our vision of reality. When we opened on Sienkiewicza we thought it would just have a bar as an additional attraction. But then I met two fantastic people, Wojtek Sancewicz and Jerzy Nogal, who have enabled Czarna to provide some great food as well.

Why did you not finish the bar? Did you run out of money!?

It was designed by Olaf Brzeski, a very popular young Polish sculptor, especially for us. It’s called ‘Infinity’, and it looks as if the workers fled construction before it was finished. Everyone always ensures a perfect finish inside, so the idea of creating the opposite seemed funny to us.

What are your plans for the near future?

The current exhibition of the works of Jadwiga Sawicka, a great Polish conceptual artist who created a new installation for us: it can be viewed until April 14. Then, on April 19, we’ll launch a new project prepared by Gemma Lloyd and Eve Smith called “I Salute the Potter’s Clay”. They’re two fantastic curators from London who’ve created an exhibition of key questions about the artistic legacy. Tom Godfrey, Dominik Lang, Marie Lund, Karol Radziszewski, Yonatan Vinitski have all been invited to the exhibition. In the meantime, there’ll be intimate concerts, meetings and lectures, which you can find out about on our website (www. czarna.waw.pl).

CZARNA.gallery&bar ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. +48 22 416 24 67 www.czarna.waw.pl; info@czarna.waw.pl.

The Architect of Ruins by Jadwiga Sawicka, photo: Paweł Skorowski Open: Mon-Sat: 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00.

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS area populated by wickers chairs and hammocks. As is the rage in Warsaw, the menu is light, natural and healthy.

Café Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620 3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:0023:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. Ignoring the fact that most of this street looks ready to fall down, the artsy-looking Próżna comes with a chic, ice white look, and a stack of hard-back tomes to compliment the homemade desserts. Even better at night, when soaked in the glow of dozens of candles.

Café Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115.

Open daily 6:30-24:00. A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from almond croissants to delicate brioches.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest. After an eventful 2012 C25 is back with a bang – known for its anti-establishment attitude, new features include a clean new look of battleship colors and less useless junk.

Comedy nights downstairs have proved a hit, while on ground level Chłodna resounds to that welcome hustle all the best cafes have: creaking floorboards, clattery board games, whistling kettles and dogs going woof.

Christian’s Bakerhouse ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00. A top quality bakery/café/restaurant owned by celebrity chef Krystian Zalejski. Fixed up in rustic style, the ever changing menu round at Christian’s is mostly filled with Italian staples – but with a twist. Think pappardelle with roasted duck slices and rosemary.

Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 7:3022:00; Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00.

Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. But to see Coffee Karma at her best, wait for the spring terrace.

Croque Madame (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 41, tel. 793 794 318. Open 8:00-22:00. A French-themed charmer with

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rough, white painted brickwork, distressed wooden furniture and lots of eccentric bric-a-brac to keep an eye out for. Dealing out fresh baguettes and pastries, the whole boulangerie/café concept is excellently executed.

Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 22 881 8677. Open Mon-Sun 12:0021:00. Dziurka serves an ambiguous role as a bar, restaurant and cafe. Curious doors sit embedded on the wall, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside.

Flowers, plant pots and violet splashes give it a cheerful spin, while the Italian inspired menu isn’t short on creative flair.

Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21. Open 10:00-22:00. An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Betters”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are even better though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

Green Caffe Nero Many locations inc. Pl. Konstytucji 1, www. greencaffenero.pl. The British Nero chain have hooked up with the Green Coffee phenomena, with Green Caffe Nero the result of the unlikely fusion. Expect quality Italian blends, and fresh made-on-the-day food across the city.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822, www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses.

than a bakery, La Vanille is definitely more than your standard confectioners. Thick with the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that acts as a magnetic force, and it’s here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation.

Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders.

Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards.

Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 512 091 840, www.ministerstwokawy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Were it not for the fact MK opened after voting had closed, you’d have bet your bottom zlot this would have romped home with our ‘best café’ award.

Decorated sparingly with white wall tiles and wooden floors, this newbie numbers some ace fruit drinks amongst its greater glories.

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www.mito.art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:00-23:00. Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by modern art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel.

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, www.klubokawiarnia.net.

Open 9:00-last guest. Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors.

Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, screenings and art happenings have launched it into local conscience.

Moments ul. Nowy Swiat 6/12, www.tastylife.pl.

Open Mon-Thu 7:30-22:00; Fri 7:30-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. A prime location in the ingenious construction of a two-storey glass prism under the Financial Center’s arcades. So forget the gloomy, dusty corners of Warsaw’s cafes and immerse yourself inside a sleek space bathed in light that comes streaming through all four walls.

Moments knows many incarnations and slides with ease between cosmopolitan cafe, modern eatery and communal wine bar.

La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, www.lavanille.pl. Open 8:00-20:00. In much the same way Charlotte is so much more

my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), www.myomy.pl. Open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00;

Sun 10:00-21:00. Slightly rustic in design, with flower-patterned pillows, wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor.

The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well.

Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic.

Piaskownica (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 9:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest. During daylight it’s a coffee bar; come nightfall beer becomes the choice of the people. Popular with college kids, find announcements like ‘Tofu Attack’ chalked on the blackboards.

Relaks ul. Puławska 48. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. Delete Starbucks from memory: if you take your coffee seriously, then no-one does it better than this lot. Using a number of brewing methods, the baristas here are top of their trade, doing their stuff in a cool interior with

a heavy retro accent.

Secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19. Open Mon-Fri 8:0021:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00. You might already be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town. Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest. It’s a winner! Śniadaniownia ul. Dąbrowskiego 38, tel. 507 513 502.

Open 8:00-15:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-17:00.

A bright looking breakfast bar with pale woods and pot plants to offset any early morning trauma. The day’s breakfast sets are scrawled up on a blackboard, and usually involve a number of healthy living options to kicks start the day.

Socjal (E4) ul. Foksal 18, tel. 601 318 966. Open 9:00-4:00.

Looking raw, industrial and refreshingly ascetic, the principal feature of Socjal is the long communal table – who you end up talking to is down to the dice. There’s few better places to order the Prosecco and act oh so continental.

Sto900 (E3) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 787 696 241.

Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:0024:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. A fabulous café/ restaurant with a spontaneous design that jumbles bricks and wood with mismatched furniture. From the outside, this place looks like the entrance to a squat, so be surprised to learn it’s not just the atmosphere that’s ace.

The menu changes daily, but usually involves commendable burgers (with a daring but successful addition of beetroot) alongside more unexpected dishes: e.g. eko-falafel.

WINE BARS

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. Covertly stashed inside a courtyard, that Ale Wino’s! neighbors include fashion Tsar Robert Kupisz announce this place as the frontline of cool – as if to qualify this, find furnishing by the celebrated design brains at Studio Rygalik. Stocked with wines from 16 countries, place your trust in sommelier Adrian Litkowicz for a taste of something special.

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Bar Cenzura ul. Mysia 3, tel. 515 967 123. Open Mon 10:00-20:00; Tue-Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. Set on the top floor of the

Mysia 3 department store, Cenzura’s hard white colors compliment a wide, open space design that celebrates, what the owner dubs, as the ‘beauty of concrete’. Looking stylish and soothing, touches include an intricate, multi-layered communal table, as well as a body-shaped concrete armchair. The wine list overlooks quantity in favor of quality, and other pluses include on-tap Prosecco. A must visit.

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Cabernet ul. Woronicza 31, tel. 22 115 13 04, www. cabernet.net.pl. Open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-18:00.

Warsaw’s appetite for the grape shows no sign of abating. The latest wine bar to hit the market has a warehouse look, a strong menu – with surprisingly modest prices – and a drinks selection that includes approximately 150 wines: most of which are available by the glass. Already winning hot reviews, we’ll be back in May for a full-length look.

Charlotte (D6) pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open MonFri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-22:00. It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Mac technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

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Duchnicka Wine & Food Tucked away off center in a renovated factory, Duchnicka functions as a wine store, restaurant and an emphatically good wine bar – so good, in fact, it was the runaway winner in our annual awards. There’s over 700 wines to pick from, and you won’t go wrong placing faith in the sommelier, Rafał Kiś. BEST WAWA 2012 “Wine Bar” Winner Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight; Sun 14:0022:00. Located just outside the Old Town, this minimalist wine bar is a great place for a date.

Wines from top European wine makers are impressive and the prices are very decent.

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Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine bar on ul. Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, café-style chic. The locale offers daily specials that feature two four-course menus. The shops’ wines are sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

The summer courtyard garden is a particular standout feature.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Some call it the best wine bar in Warsaw, others the best in Poland.

Either way, this place hits the right notes with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu, old and new world wines and a chic warehouse design filled to bursting with crates and boxes.

WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 8, tel. 22 646 8742, www.winkolekcja.pl. Open 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. You can’t pick your neighbors...

In WinKolekcja’s case, that means a kebab shop opposite and a bottle bank with a constant stream of street bums. But in spite of the curious location, this new wine bar/ store looks set to thrive; the wine choice is comprehensive, and the food excellent. The design has the routine look of a club class lounge area; even so, it’s a timely addition to an area not rich in options.

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Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 29/31. Lending a lift to a sad stretch of Chłodna is Winosfera, a huge wine bar with all the requisite crates and industrial fittings – there’s even a cinema. Staff issues exist, but nothing that can’t be solved by a pool of piranhas. The upside is true fine dining, and a flawless wine selection. Opened in Feb, it’s already become a much used Insider hangout.

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Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32, tel. 696 561 652. Open 12:0024:00. Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve already won a staunchly loyal following. Get your week off to a galloping start and visit on ‘Jazz Monday’s’. You’ll be joining the most beautiful people in the city.

Reviews: Sztuki & Sztuczki 57 / Plus:

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NIGHTLIFE

BARS & PUBS 57 / CLUBS 61 / GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS 62 / JAZZ CLUBS 62

KEY

Insider’s Pick

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews

BOW 2012 Winner...........

Food Served....................

Free wifi..............................

Live Music..........................

Map location pg. 78 ...... (A1) Romantic..........................

BARS & PUBS Bazar (F1) ul. Okrzei 22, tel. 508 321 264. Open 12:00-last guest. There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

Sztuki & Sztuczki ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 468 00 00, www.sztukisztuczki.pl. Open Mon-Tue 13:00-22:00; Wed-Thu 13:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 13:00-4:00.

I

t may be something of a slow burner, but the courtyard of Szpitalna 8 is fast becoming a ‘go to’ location for alternative culture and design in Warsaw city center. With shops, bars, and design studios there’s a creative feel that’s proving to be a winner with artistic types. And having already paid visits to Red Onion and Pies Czy Suka for our Made in Poland edition last month, this time it was the turn of cellar bar Sztuki & Sztuczki.

On this particular visit winter had paid an unannounced return to the capital, meaning me and a couple of friends were more than happy to descend the steps and get away from the incoming sheets of snow. Once through the doors first impressions were mixed.

As with Polish cellar bars in other cities there’s plenty of red brickwork and archways, with hidden corners that make it a perfect venue for a gig or DJ event. Unfortunately, on this particular Thursday night it was pretty much dead: with about six others inside, the space felt cavernous. I’m told, however, that’s not usually the case: it’s become a much raved about spot for live entertainment.

Once we’d located a dark sofa to sit on it was time to order: not easy considering the excellent supply at the bar. I counted at least ten different whiskeys, and that didn’t even include Johnny Walker, with the likes of Arberg sitting alongside the increasingly fashionable J.A. Baczewski vodka. My friends went for gin and tonic, and rum and coke, respectively, while I ordered a reliable Baltijos pszeszniczne. Not the most complex set of drinks you might think, but somehow the bargirl contrived to take ten minutes to get them to us. Not good. Then, twenty minutes later, the other server came over to tell us we had 15 minutes to finish them because they were shutting. While this might make total sense financially, in terms of making a good impression the demand went down like a shot plane. There’s a lot to recommend about S&S, and as a cool quirky bar/club it looks set to thrive. And once they smooth out the inconsistencies in the opening hours, then they certainly deserve to. (DI)

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Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest.

As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub.pl. The big fail of 2012. Forget that it’s the most accurate replica of a traditional British pub around, and consider instead the heinous service, fried aromas and a deserved ex-pat boycott traced to the dismissal of the original British manager.

Browar de Brasil (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 76/80, tel. 534 600 990, www.browardebrasil.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. It’s succesfull, but that doesn’t make it special. Find four house brews, none of which impress, served by waitresses in tight, flirty outfits that reveal all their foibles. Don’t expect kind words about the food, either – amateurish at best, inedible at worst.

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NIGHTLIFE Browarmia (C3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An industrial looking microbrewery filled with mysterious pipes, valves and gauges. The summer terrace is great, making it one of the best places around for a brew with a view.

Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 523 749 160. Open 12:00-5:00. An artsy carpentered bar, white wall tiles and trendy draftsman desk lamps lend the severe looking Bufet Centralny no shortage of style, and instinct suggests it’ll continue to serve as one of Warsaw’s more happening bars for some time to come. But the service and customers do think highly of themselves, points outsiders might find obnoxious.

Café Colombia (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www. colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Vast windows, vibrant colors and wide open spaces make it the polar opposite of the covert cocktail dens we usually like. But my God, the drinks here are special.

The Chili Manhattan Dream is outstanding, and the Espressotini to die for – and after ordering eight we nearly did. Also on the roster, a range of impressive international beers.

Cafe Kulturalna (C4) Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, www.kulturalna.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience.

Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754.

Open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest.

Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good.

Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river.

Czarna.Bar ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. 22 416 2467. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:0021:00. The look doesn’t say ‘just finished’, it says ‘haven’t even started’. Cables hang from walls, and specks of paint cover the grey / white surfaces – whether this is actually part of the final design one can only guess. It’s

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upstairs you’ll find most people moving to, and we like it very much. Looking fashionably spartan, the area includes an L-shaped mattress thing, and a glass wall which allows you to peer in on the chef downstairs.

Czeska Baszta Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego. Open Tues-Thurs, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00. Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary.

Bathed in a yellowish glow, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk!

There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

Czysta Ojczysta (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-4:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00.

Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo.

Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar (E6) ul. Mokotowska 43. Open 12:00-23:00.

Checkered floor tiles, pristine whites and classic pictures of the rich and famous announce Flaming. The guys look like Bond villains and the gals just like Bond girls, but don’t think it’s a closed shop. With glasses of Moet starting below zł. 50 it’s accessible to all. But forget the champagne, it’s their cocktails we love. Order oysters and let the night take its BEST WAWA 2012 “Cocktails” course.

Winner

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Jimmy Bradley’s (C4) Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654 6656, www.jimmybradleys.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. Rudderless since the departure of the original landlord, Kevin, this former ex-pat bastion is looking increasingly haggard and past its sell-by date. Tales of walkouts, staff sackings and customer boycotts have swirled thick and fast, with the latest masterstroke – employing Vietnamese staff – has compounded the problems. There are Guinness taps, and there is a Sky dish, but the people who know how to operate either have long left the building.

Kraken Rum Bar ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-4:00. Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodsy Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Chilled out and downtempo, owners Zosia and Michał have created a legend out of this dinky two room affair.

There’s too many beers to recommend, though the Rowing Jack diminishes quickly for a reason.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640.

Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background.

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Leniviec ul. Poznańska 7, www.leniviec.pl. Open Mon-Thu 7:30-24:00; Fri 7:30-2:00; Sat 9:00-2:00; Sun 9:00-24:00. Once known as a café, Leniviec still fulfill that role during daylight. However, it’s their reinvention as a cocktail bar that’s got Warsaw talking, with very decent mixology skills completing a laidback look.

Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. Open 17:00-last guest.

Tight trousers and flamboyant scarves are recommended in this hipster mecca, as is a triumphant drinks choice that numbers short of sixty regional beers. Design doesn’t go beyond jam jars for lights and a messy blackboard, but that’s all this place needs to work. Similar backstreet New York dive it’s got an effortless cool and our beer of the year: the minty flavor/raspberry hint M3.

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Mały Wojtek (D4) ul. Bracka 20. Open 10:00-4:00. Named after a neighbor who persistently makes noise complaints, Mały Wojtek is one of Warsaw’s great little secrets. And little it certainly

NIGHTLIFE is. Swing by at night when this laidback courtyard bar hits its stride.

Meta na Mazowieckiej (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 16/22. Open 11:00-6:00.

Filled with Breznev-era leftovers the latest venue from the Meta brand is a larger version of the Foksal original. Posters and vinyl (even a motorbike) from the PRL years decorate the walls, with the bulk of the action taking place in the smoking room in the back.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its

Shot Bars

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl.

Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

PaństwoMiasto ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9464. Open 9:00-24:00. Found in one of those colossal communist blocks emblematic of the district, first impressions are of a cold, cavernous space: stone floors, echoing acoustics and blank, boring color schemes. But PM grows on you fast, thanks in particular to a decent beer selection and a fiercely intellectual spirit. Look out for the chef’s corgi, a friendly chap usually snuffling under the communal tables.

Między Wódką z Zakąską ul. Chmielna 13. Open 10:00-24:00. Like most of its ilk, design never gets involved here. But that doesn’t stop one of the most diverse crowds in Warsaw gathering: on our visit, that meant Hilfiger clad preppies arm-wrestling (and winning) against the local hoods. Go Tommy! The five zlot plastic glasses of Brackie get the job done, and fast.

Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Engage in suicidal cocktail consumption alongside high rollers and genetic miracles. Slick and smooth, Poland’s original cocktail chain continues to set the bar high with formidable cocktails (Pimm’s included!) and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door.

Pijalnia ul. Nowy Świat 19. Open 24hrs. Bow-tied staff serve vodka and pickles from behind a tiled bar to a crowd that gets younger as the day gets older. In quieter times, check the newspaperd walls to read up on 1980s sports reports.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16. Open 9:00-last guest.

Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives, musicians and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. Shots of vodka and plates of Polish stomach liners are dispensed inside a mirrored environment with droopy plants. It’s an after club must, with stern service guaranteed from agitated oldies dressed in tuxedos. Packed to the brim come three, four even five am.

Warszawska Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. 600 121 240. Open 24hrs. When Plan B closes the hardcore head here. Little more than a grey concrete room, this newbie is winning the war as the city’s favorite shot bar.

vibrator beer taps.

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Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A. Open 11:00-last guest.

Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones.

This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Plan B is a byword for everything that’s hip and happening in Warsaw. Design doesn’t even come into the equation in this grubby upstairs bar, but the free spirits can’t get enough of it.

Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 22, tel. 501 048 471. Open 12:00-last guest. A collective groan was issued when their premises on Ząbkowska closed, so it’s three cheers to learn they’re back at a new address. Looking more sanitized than the shabby original, the standout feature of this dark-looking, brick-ceilinged haunt is what ranks as Warsaw’s best collection of craft beers.

Sketch (E4) ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch. pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00; upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. The most global choice of beer in Warsaw, with international prices to match. The white minimalist interiors get busy with a cool crowd of urban sophisticates.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49. Open Mon-Thur 16:0024:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00.

The intimate layout makes use of wobbly antiques, sofas covered in velvety fabrics and weird extras like a mannequin donning a Russian hat with furry, flappy ears. Nights typically involve lots of yet-to-be-famous beers, while the lamp-lit toilet, seemingly built into a pre-war fireplace, is like stepping through the looking glass.

Spotkanie ze Szpiegiem (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit.

Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, www.syrenispiew.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 17:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00. Housed in a 70s monster this two floor bar maintains its element of retro chic while at the same time providing a genuinely unique drinking experience. Aimed at a more mature, affluent crowd than their sister bar

(Warszawa PKP Powiśle), the standout factor is a whisky menu divided up into regions of BEST WAWA Scotland, Ireland and Japan.

2012 “New Bar” Winner Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open SunThu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00.

More than just a Tex Mex joint, this is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.

The prime months for this former ticket-booth are in summer when the deck chairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as the hipster Center of Power, a collective bout of outrage saved them from council threatened closure earlier in the year. Not just a bar, they’re now filling

a dual role as Warsaw’s one billionth burger joint.

Warszawska Pijalnia Whisky (D4) ul. Zgoda 6, tel. 22 553 61 00, www.pijalniawhisky.pl. Open Mon -Sun 12:0022:00. With no old oak cabinets or portraits of Cambridge scholars it’s not the charismatic whisky bar one expects. Come to terms with this and you’ll be pleased to find excellent whisky – mostly from the Speyside Spey Distillery – inside dimly-lit pragmatic interiors.

Znajomi Znajomych (D5) ul. Wilcza 58A. Open Sun-Thurs 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-5:00. We’re not sure what kind of design they’ve opted for on the ground level, but either way it doesn’t work.

Head upstairs instead to join the hipsters spread across a host of (smoking) rooms.

It’s here Zna Zna comes into its own, with a set of chambers decorated in eclectic retro style – including one room which some would describe as a Ron Jeremy orgy room.

Things get hot and sticky on their weekend club nights.

CLUBS 1500m2 (F4) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. Set in a former printing factory, 1500m2 has been central to the rise of Powiśle. The industrial space has a real Berlin edge to it, and events range from weekend flea markets to teeth shattering, dusk-tilldawn electro events.

Basen ul. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 696 058 944, www.artbasen.pl. Open Fri-Sat 21:00-6:00.

Get this, you’ll be doing your dance steps in what was formerly Warsaw’s first public swimming pool. Featuring a line-up of live bands and some of the top electronic acts around, this is definitely one to add to the watch list.

Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl. An extravagant dance space with sparkly chandeliers, regal staircases and a modern Moscow, over-the-top

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NIGHTLIFE style. Mark the Hed Kandi events in your diary for a night to remember.

DeLite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub.com.

Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest. Exposed brick pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror set-up in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, pretty-in-pink, spaceship interiors. Joining the top table of Warsaw’s other ‘uber klubs’ De Lite gets even better once access to the VIP room is scored.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:004:00. Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.

The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open Wed-Fri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest. Beauty and booty come first in The Eve, a blinged up offshoot of Platinium nearby. A cutthroat door policy ensures plenty of egos crash and die at the door, and it’s got a Bacchanalian reputation for champagne popping high jinks. Observe them through the one way mirror in the VIP room.

Foksal XVIII ul. Foksal 18. Open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00.

Composed using chandeliers, bricks and velvet this classy space has gone head to head with The Eve as Warsaw’s flashest venue: breathe deep and smell the money.

Cardboard animal shapes hang from the bar, adding some surreal humor to the seriously competitive air.

Jerozolima Al. Jerozolimskie 57. Set in a Gotham City tenement this former children’s hospital fills a daytime role as a ‘creative space’ for artists and architects. As evening counts down find numerous club events and music nights taking shape amid the atmospherically lit, half-derelict looking confines. Keep up to speed with what’s on through Facebook.

Luzztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luztro.pl.

Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a nefarious reputation

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as something of a dodgy den of illicit pharmaceuticals and libertine behavior.

Looking grim and grotty, this after party legend gets going at about 4 a.m. when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the final touches to their zonked out stare. For the full tilt, teeth rattling electro experience it’s pretty hard to beat.

Minus ul. Chmielna 9. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-6:00. The design mimics everything you expect from a modern Warsaw club (flashing zips of light, glossy surfaces), but the music sets it apart with a bold dedication to house, deep house and progressive sounds. With numerous international acts lined up to play, as well as a powerful sound system that leaves the teeth rattling, this could yet become a serious party choice.

Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. A labyrinth of passageways and chambers await in Opera, a subterranean club located underneath the National Theater. Touting an exotic, far eastern look, it’s one of the best designed clubs you could imagine.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, www.platiniumclub.pl. Open Wed-Sat 20:006:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs BEST WAWA 2012 “Rich & Right for Now. Pretty Club” Winner

GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS

New Orleans ul. Zgoda 11, tel. 22 826 4831, www.neworleans. pl. Open 21:00-4:00.

High rollers looking to clinch a deal in unusual surrounds should consider doing so in New Orleans: a gentleman’s club with a seriously VIP dining area. Cheaper snack and sandwich options available should you prefer to spend your money on the real reason you’re here…

Playhouse Al. Solidarności 82A, www.playhouse.com. pl. Housed in a former bomb shelter, would you believe it. Now though the talk is of bombshells, namely the 57 they’ve got on their books. Like most clubs, this place features a distinctly Slavic lineup of Poles, Russians and Ukrainians.

Sin Club ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, www.sinclub.com. pl. One of the biggest and best dance stables in town offers a pleasingly international line-up that demonstrates a serious recruitment drive.

You won’t find a more central strip club in town.

JAZZ Bistro na Pięknej ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, www.jazzone.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00. A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul.

Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace – and just in time for winter, and all. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts.

Jazzarium (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 601 327 634. Open MonFri 8:30-last gues; Sat 18:00-last guest. Owned

by Mariusz Adamiak, Jazzarium is certainly the most serious of Warsaw’s jazz venues, with a reportoire that reflects the proprietor’s standing in the music biz. What looks like a pretty ordinary cafe, transforms the moment there’s a concert.

Nu ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 621 8989. Open 10:00-24:00. For something a little educated take a date to Nu, a high-ceilinged effort with slick urban dashes and regular piano. The Żurawia location marks it out as a popular spot for a high-end crowd.

Tygmont Jazz Club (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl. Open daily 16:00-4:00.

For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics.

Reviews: Victoria’s Secret 63 / Plus:

* 2 updates

SHOPPING

ACCESSORIES 65 / FASHION 63 / HOME DECOR 66 / SHOPPING MALLS 66

FASHION

Victoria’s Secret ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www.victoriassecret.com.

T

EAGLE

LOGO WITHOUT AE.COM

LOGO WITH AE.COM

LOCKUP WITHOUT AE.COM

LOCKUP WITH AE.COM

Insider’s Pick

he international megabrand that made lingerie a household name and put Angels in suspender belts has made its first foray into the Polish market, opening up two boutiques last summer. Alas, we won’t find the gargantuan boutiques of New York City, filled to the brim with frills and lace, at either location but instead smallish mall-style boutiques devoted to the brand’s ‘Beauty & Accessories’. In other words, sweet-as-candy perfumes, handbags, iPad and iPhone covers, trinkets, gadgets and, of course, a sprinkling of panties.

For any lady (or fellow, for that matter) obsessed with VS’s signature bottoms, the selection may not suffice. I imagine the shop is really just the start of Victoria’s Secret Mission to Poland – a slight tease before we see the real deal crop up. But for a girly-girl, this place is heaven: there is no limit to the scents one can indulge in, and the abundance of pastels is overwhelming. It’s the grown-up version of a candy store and full of delights for women who like to play dress-up while they undress, and for men who love the frilly trappings of underthings. Some things never change.

Victoria’s Secret has made a huge impact on the world of lingerie and sex, bringing the bedroom into the boardroom thanks to the explosive sales of its thongs and milliondollar bras made of diamonds. The flirtatious Angels of the fashion show have become a household name and now Polish households can stock up on their own bits of glint and frivolous glamour via two of Warsaw’s biggest shopping centers. Definitely a great gift idea when you’re at an absolute loss for what to get for Marta or Ania’s imieniny – anything from a pair of lace panties to a Victoria’s Secret keychain. All for a penny that’s as pretty as the Angels themselves. (AL)

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American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639. Open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. In their words, “where American prep meets current fashion”. Poland’s first American Eagle Outfitters has the full line of male and female fashion, including denims, t’s, footwear and much more besides.

Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs.

The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Bizuu ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 609 888 363, www.bizuu.pl. A gorgeous, feminine collection from two talented Polish designers – including, the must need pastels of the coming season.

Blind Cafe Concept Store (D6) ul. Mokotowska 63/100 (courtyard).

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 13:0018:00. This eclectic 50’s-style place is well-stocked with unique pieces for women and cool gadgets for men. A perfect place for those who are looking for something more than a mall for a style fix.

Boudoir 26 ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 22 400 9330, www.boudoir26.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A unique luxury lingerie boutique selling top brands like Chantal Thomass, Lou Paris, ID Sarrieri and Chantelle. The boutique offers a high quality shopping experience inside a comfortable space. Shopping by appointment also available, where you can enjoy the

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SHOPPING shopping experience with a glass of bubbly.

Clue (E3) ul. Solec 101, tel. 22 695 7897, www.cluefashion.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Clue stocks items from Moschino, ASOS, DKNY, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Cavalli, Steve Madden, Armani, as well as up-and-coming designers, and a number of children’s brands.

Designer Secret Al. Witosa 31 (1st floor, outlet 119), CH Panorama, tel. 506 051 048, www.designersecret.pl. High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with women and men’s apparel from the 2008-2010 collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price.

Eleven* ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 794 347 928, www.be-eleven.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11.00-19.00; Sat 11.00-16.00 (shopping by appointment also available). Find clothing, accessories and jewelry from a carefully selected portfolio that combines up-and-coming international brands such as Sandwich and Joseph Ribkoff with the best of Poland’s flourishing fashion scene. And what better way to contemplate this eclectic mix than with a glass of wine or an energizing espresso in hand?

Ermenegildo Zegna (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7000, www. zegna.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Everything for the well-dressed man, from suits to belts, and sportswear.

Flaming & Co. (D6) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 629 0545, www.flaming-co.com.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00.

This concept store, now re-opened on ul.

Mokotowska after renovation work, brings a fresh seaside breeze to Warsaw. Also checkout the branch of Flaming & Kids on ul. Mokotowska.

Follow Me ul. Okrąg 1, tel. 669 295 567. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-19:30; Sat 11:00-15:00. A superb footwear store with Italian import brands such as Mauro Leone.

Frenchy Store ul. Wspólna 27A, tel. 500 541 473, www.frenchystore.pl. Open Mon-Fri

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11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. A hip and urban fashion store with sneakers from Vans, Onistuka Tiger and Nike, clothing by Risk.

Made in Warsaw, and accessories by the likes of Mighty Wallet, Komono, Candy Crystal and SiS. Justyna Chrabelska (by appt) (E6) tel. 502 437 200, info@justynachrabelska. com, www.justynachrabelska.com. One of Warsaw’s most talented designers runs her own showroom in the center solely by appointment. With stylish, feminine dresses or funky contemporary dresses each season, this is the place to score the perfect dress, whether you’re a celebrity or just want to dress like one.

L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.

Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho.

Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Lilla Moda (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, Klif www.lilla.com.pl.

Here you’ll find exclusive Italian clothing brands, including Versace Jeans, Just Cavalli, GF FERRE, D&G, EXTE and Liu Jo. Loding Shoes and Shirts (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, 1st Floor, tel. 22 541 3774, www.loding.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The respected French shirtand-shoemaker recently opened its first shop in Warsaw. The place to go for top-of-the-line shirts, cufflinks and made-to-order dress shoes for the well-dressed man.

Loft Fashion ul. Burakowska 5/7 (2nd floor), tel. 22 636 0255, www.loft-fashion.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Everything the businessman requires: suits, shirts, shoes and cigars. Impeccable tri-lingual service in a top location. In July you can enjoy a summer clearance with 70% off.

Luxury & Liberty (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. Once a bar, its fashion counterpart managed to come back in style with a sprawling new boutique in the Promenada shopping centre. While the location’s a bit inconvenient, the selection of quality designer gear at L&L and other shops makes it well worth the trip.

Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom.

Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, office@ moliera2.com, www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00.

Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain.

Muji (A1) Arkadia Mall (lok 23 A), Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 356 1039, www.muji.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48 (courtyard), tel. 690 021 787, www.robertkupisz.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00.

One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner, and Kupisz’s latest collection is a tribute to Americana: think disheveled cowgirls flouncing on the prairie.

Reykjavik District (F4) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, www.reykjavikdistrict.com. Open Tues-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, www.snobissimo.pl. Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a onestop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

UEG (E5) ul. Mysia 3, http://ueg-store.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00.

From the cut to the stitching to the colors and the fabrics (like the water-resistant tyvek) this is not the place you go to pick up an ordinary ‘pretty’ dress. Rather, this is a store where each item, though simple in design, has something so artfully striking it’s a guaranteed head turner.

ACCESSORIES

Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections. Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances.

Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, tel. 22 611 3814. You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry.

Church’s (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00.

A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes.

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Batycki (various locations) Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite.

D. Bramante 1928 ul. Wiejska 17, www.dramanted1928.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Most of the products for your everyday electronic carry (laptop, Kindle, MacBook, iPad, etc.) are designed in Denmark and created in India, while their exclusive line called 376 is made with Italian leather here in Poland by local designer, Agnieszka Solomon. The standouts are the goatskin bags and messenger pouches.

Chiara (Saska Kępa)

Frey Wille (D4)

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SHOPPING ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, www.frey-wille.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Vienna-based jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals.

Glamstore (C9) ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel. 22 403 2300. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, www.mokotowska63. com.Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz.

In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3. The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula.

Pracownia Czasu ul. Wiejska 14, tel. 622 12 12, www.pracowniaczasu.pl. Luxury watches from brands like Corum, Vulcain, Ulysee Nardin, Magellan and Fortis.

Secret Life (of Things) ul. Polna 18/20, tel. 22 412 4811, www.secretlife.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. And it’s the multi-colored tins that greet you at the door, all of them crying out ‘drink me’. Check the prestigious porcelain by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes.

Take a Nap ul. Mysia 3. This two floor shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. Downstairs there’s a broader selection of bed frames, couches and mattresses.

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Presotto Italia, Calia Italia, EGO zeroventiquattro, Masiero, Bang & Olufsen and Porsche.

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range. For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

HOME DECOR 3F Studio (B2) ul. Nowolipki 28b, tel. 22 651 5644, www.3fstudio.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide. The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients.

Bo Concept (A1) ul. Młocińska 5/7, tel. 22 636 7770.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00. Lovely, clean lines make this one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home.

Coqlila ul. Lentza 20 (Wilanów), tel. 22 651 6884,www.coqlila.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 10:00-16:00.Home products with a marked provincial French style. Among the offer are fabrics, fragrances, furniture and kitchenware.

MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, NEW CITY building (Mokotów), tel. 22 360 4389, www.moomo.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm.

Numero Uno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, www.numerouno.pl. Exclusive furniture and fittings with brands including Poggenpohl,

Red Onion (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339; ul. Szpitalna 8, tel. 22826 0008. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-18:00. www.redonion.pl. Their new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget.

SHOPPING MALLS Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15. Open Mon-Thurs 9:0021:30; Fri 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, www.klif.pl. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Bomi supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. Hip and high-end department store with units such as NYCity (DKNY, Donna Karan), Berries & Co. (Ice Watch, Triwa, Ike Milano), UEG, My Paris and Take a Nap selling great pieces from both established and upcoming designers.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Wolf Center, ul. Bracka 9, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega, Yves Saint Laurent, etc…

Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

Reviews: Mama Lama 67 / Plus:

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CHILDREN ACTIVITIES 67 / CAFES 68 / EDUCATION 68 / SHOPS 70

Insider’s Pick

ACTIVITIES Barwy Muzyki ul. Niecała 14, www.barwymuzyki.pl.

This informal music school, with highly qualified teachers experienced in the Colour Strings program, acknowledges not every child will be a professional musician but that playing, listening and singing to music is an asset to their development. Group or individual lessons on piano, violin, guitar, cello and flute for 6-12yrs.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, www.kopernik.org.pl. A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

Mama Lama ul. Dąbrowskiego 71, tel. 722 196 68. Open 9:00-20:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

M

ama Lama is located in old Mokotów, in a street that has a growing number of trendy cafes and hip shops. I took a peek at their FB page, and noted the extensive list of activities (‘mini music’, creative classes, dance/movement) and long opening hours: both ticked the mum and tot boxes, so I diverted our family lunch break to ul.

Dąbrowskiego. Apart from a small sign hanging above the window one might drive straight past this place thinking it was a pet shop or vet, but up close it’s obvious this premises means business for one client only: children!

The entrance definitely has the wow factor with an impressive mural depicting family and friends hand-in-hand alongside a llama – the cafe’s mascot. Our positivity gained momentum in the seating area where the colorful interior, high ceiling and natural light flooded through the large windows. However, despite our early arrival, this place was busy and after being asked to wait five minutes to order drinks it became apparent this was a child’s adventure wonderland with a bijoux café and kitchen along for the ride.

We got a place and, after a minor squabble with a chair leg, we focused on the menu. The chalkboard lists the sort of choices that are exactly what mummy’s want for their children; freshly made healthy foods, on-the-spot squeezed juices as well as pancake treats. However, it’s not all celery sticks and fruit compote, on this occasion a homemade beef goulash was on the menu, perfect comfort food for daddy’s morning after a night out.

The two level play area (complete with a Wendy house and bridges) is supervised by a qualified babysitter, hence the small charge of zł. 6 for one hour in the play area. Below, the children can interact with carefully chosen toys to stimulate their sensorial development and inquisitive minds. Whilst we realized our seven year old daughter had probably outgrown this café, the fact it closes its doors for private functions does make it a jolly place for celebrating birthdays for several years to come. (GBB)

Colourstrings Music School (Barwy Muzyki) ul. Niecała 14, tel. 22 188 1827, www.barwymuzyki.pl. The philosophy is simple: add fun to learning and create an environment where music, singing and instruments are accepted as part of the daily lifestyle. Following music sheets transformed into colorful characters, children are encouraged to experiment with instruments and song as they would with their toys.

Fryzjerkowo ul. Foksal 12/14, www.fryzjerkowo.pl. This 100% child friendly hair salon with jungle theme interior will guarantee no tears! Whilst having their locks chopped children sit in a toy car and watch a favorite DVD. Mum can peruse the retro toys and classic books on sale. Owner speaks excellent English.

Advance booking recommended.

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Fundacja Atelier ul. Foksal 11, www.atelier.org.pl. Situated in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/drawing/ sculpture/art history) for children, young people and adults.

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CHILDREN *

HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, www.hulakula.com. pl. Bowling alley and soft indoor playground found in the basement of the university library. Children appreciate the opportunities for climbing, exploration and jumping into large ball pools.

Little Chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook-and-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit www.littlechef.pl or call 0501 093 691 for more information.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.Over 300 locations worldwide, with the first one in Poland opened last November. Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones romp in the kids room.

Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, www.fikumikucafe.pl.

This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children.

The focus is on films and creative workshops.

Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection.

Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties.

Kalimba ul. Mierosławskiego 19, www.kalimba.pl.

Kalimba café caters to Warsaw’s boho-chic community. Relax with long latte’s or nibble healthy snacks whilst kids climb a spiral staircase to the indoor tree house, role-play in the kitchen area or join creative workshops.

The shop, with original handmade toys is tempting, but it’s the pick’n’mix candy that’s unavoidable!

CAFES

Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl.

Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with a garden/playground, Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials.

Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, figazmakiem.edu.pl. One of the latest and greatest

Kosmos Kosmos ul. Koszykowa 55. Open 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-last guest. The design fuses retro with

rock, while the children’s area comes with a handmade puppet theater, cardboard castle and enticing kids menu. ‘Fun workshops’ take place at noon each Saturday.

Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561, www.kredkafe.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00.

The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows.

Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space My Baby Café ul. Nowoursynowska 147. A bright and airy café serving good food and great coffee at reasonable prices. Downstairs is the Holy Grail – shiny new toys, a mini kitchen for the girls, a tool bench for the boys, and a large playhouse. They even provide a nanny at no extra cost! Paradise for kids and heaven for Mums.

Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30. The latest hotspot on the family map, Nabo is run by a Danish couple, and its light and minimalist interior – designed by those who created R20 – lends itself to every occasion. But aside from its tasty and seasonal dishes, it’s the children’s corner that is causing the biggest commotion.

Nowa Kuźnia (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, www.nowakuznia.pl. Hugely child friendly, Nowa Kuźnia comes into its element each summer when the garden is turned into a giant faux beach – complete with diggers, slides and a see-saw.

The English-speaking preschool for children from the international community

22 843 9370 784 037 808

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Now receiving applications for Autumn 2013

Pompon (Wola) ul. Młynarska 13, www.pompmart.pl.

There’s more than an organic menu to recommend about Pompom. Explore forest-to-city play environments equipped with slides, rope bridges and a selection of Wendy houses, or join the dad’s and lads in the Nintendo / Wii room. How long, you may ask, will it be till parents start turning up here without the kids just to wallow in the color?

Tamika ul. Wolska 44, tel. 535 644 990, www.tamika.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:30-20:00;

Sun 10:00-20:00. Large adbright children’s area, nutrititous menu and a choice of workshops that range from English lessons to art classes to Capoeira mark Tamika out as one of the best in its genre.

Teatr Lalka Pl. Defilad 1 (Palace of Culture), www.teatrlalka.waw.pl. This puppet theatre stages a variation of productions suitable for children aged 3 +. Scenery, props and costume design are impressive but Polish dialogue is challenging! Losing the plot to Hansel and Gretel can happen - prepare to improvise! Tip: organize a backstage birthday party.

Umpa Lumpa ul.Mickiewicza 24, tel. 22 245 1909, www.umpa-lumpa.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:0019:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00. Bit part café, most part candy store. Colorfully designed, shelves here feature an array of rainbow colored lollipops, sweets and chocolate. Spoil your toddler, and yourself while you’re there.

Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl.

Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

EDUCATION PRESCHOOLS

Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów),mob.

502 355 919, www.trampoline.edu.pl.

This preschool has a lingual profile and offers bilingual teaching with French and English.

They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dabrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 2 ½ (30 months) to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool (C11) ul. Kalatówki 24, tel. 22 898 3139, 697 979 100. The pre-school branch of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides both Polish and International 3-5 year olds with the perfect setting for their first encounters with English and French in an inquiry based classroom. Here, every task relates to real life experience and skills. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: preschool@canadian-school.pl.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl.

Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16, tel./fax: 22 616 1499, www.saintexupery.pl. Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 2½ years old.

The English Playhouse (F12) ul. Płyćwiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, www.theenglishplayhouse.com. The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age.

For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com.

Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl.

The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46a (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl. Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a music and art program. Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street. The program, which is designed for 1½ to 6 year-olds, is devoted to the intellectual, emotional, social and physical development of children.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.monte ssoriacademy.eu. An English-speaking preschool (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

Tequesta ul. Przejazd 2, tel. 603 919 096/535 400 033, info@tequesta.pl, www.tequesta.pl. Polish and English language groups for children aged from six months to six years, as well as a wide range of extra-curricular activities.

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Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul.Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-5 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), www.3languages.pl. Open 7:30-18:30.

The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The

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CHILDREN comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

SCHOOLS

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 702 8500, fax 022 702 8500, admissions@aswarsaw.org, www.aswarsaw. org. The American School of Warsaw provides comprehensive programs and facilities based on a US system of education for ages 4 to 18.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School Unit ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646 9289, 697 970 244.

The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 6-10 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provides for an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include pottery, dance, ballet, capoeira, karate, emotional intelligence, art studio and tennis. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: secretary@canadian-school.pl.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 20, tel. 697 977 600, 697 979 300.

The Middle and High unit of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 11-19 year olds. With both Canadian and Polish curricula content students are given the opportunity to choose between Polish Matura or IB Diploma exams.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: mid.high@ canadian-school.pl.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) Established in 1994, the Antoine de SaintExupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children two to eight years old (3rd year of primary school) in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers.

Kid’s Academy Primary & Pre-School ul. Arbuzowa 33D (Wilanów), ul. Łąkowa 38 (Konstancin), tel. 501 205 080, www.kidsacademy.com.pl. A Private English Polish School which provides an excellent early educational program for children from ages 2.5 - 5 years old and at the Primary School, from Grade 0. Combining elements of both the Polish and British curriculum, the focus is on creating a positive and vibrant learning environment. They’re also proud of their large playground and variety of healthy foods.

Lycée Français de Varsovie ul. Walecznych 4/6, tel. 22 616 5400, www.lfv.pl. French school admitting students from the age of two years old. All instruction is in French. Languages offered : Polish, English, German, Spanish, Latin. Also, a wide variety of after school activities (sport, arts, extra-curricular instruction).

Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

“The child is both a hope and promise for mankind.”

Maria Montessori

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School accepting applications for all our locations and programs: Toddler: age 1.5-2,5 Casa: age 2,5 - 6 Elementary: age 6-9,9-12

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www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Contact Ela: tel. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Szwolezerów 4, Warszawa; Badowska 19, Warszawa; Szkolna 16, Izabelin.

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Reviews: Yonelle - Zwolińska Beauty Institute 71 / Plus:

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LIFESTYLE

ACCOMODATION 71 / COMMUNITY 74 / HEALTH & BEAUTY 72 / MEDICAL 74 / POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS 74

ACCOMODATION

Insider’s Pick

HOTELS IN WARSAW 5-star hotels H15 Boutique Apartments (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, www.h15boutiqueapartments.com. Luxury short and long-term stay accommodation inside stunning Italian furnished apartments in the city center.

Yonelle - Zwolińska Beauty Institute ul. Gen. Zajączka 9A, tel. 22 331 39 05 (Salon), 22 330 90 35 (Medispa), www.yonelle.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-17:00.

A

little beauty haven tucked away in charming Żoliborz, Yonelle offers absolutely everything I can imagine a woman would need to stay fit at all stages of life: younger, older, pregnant, even frazzled mommy. There’s a spa here, a salon, a medical spa that offers some of those more techno-savvy “rejuvenating” treatments, fitness classes and even baby bonding classes. I think the pick of the lot is definitely the CPR for babies course that teaches parents everything there is to know about providing first aid to the littlest folk (zł.

220 for 4-hour course).

But back to the matter in hand: beauty. With spring finally here, most of us need a beauty pick-me-up to chase away the drudgery of winter. Whether it’s a mani-pedi, a facial or a “Venus Freeze” slimming treatment to get that beach body on its way. The trouble with this place is that you’ve got so many tempting options it’s really hard to just settle on one.

They’ve even got that weird blood platelet facial that Kim Kardashian was raving about recently. But for the time being, I’ve had to set most of my vanity aside as my body swells and changes like never before – yes, it’s my first pregnancy.

In the end I had the “Tsuboki” (1 hour 15 minutes - zł. 250) that promises to lift, firm, revitalize and relax simply through a facial massage that stimulates major points in the face.

I wish I could provide details on the treatment itself, but I’d zoned out within seconds. There were a series of lotions – all quite soothing and pleasant-smelling and, at the end, some sort of intensive mask that purified and nourished as it made me into something of a mummy – no complaints on my end, I was happy to lay back and indulge in the exotic chimes playing in the background. I don’t know if it was the much-deserved nap or the treatment itself, but my eyes were brighter and my skin fresher when the treatment was up. My husband definitely noticed a change. And I realized the valuable truth that as a mommy-to-be I have to indulge in a few items of self-gratification while I still have the chance. (AL)

Hilton Warsaw (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com. Single and double room €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays).

Excellent services and amenities in a world-class hotel and conference centre.

Holmes Place Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities.

Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, www.warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com.

InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor.

Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com. Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169.

Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna.

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com. Muffle up for an evening prowl around old town, before spoiling yourself inside the desginer confines of this boutique masterpiece. Prices start from

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LIFESTYLE approx. €115, but it’s well worth your time browsing their ‘romantic break’ and ‘just married’ packages.

ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Single & double rooms: €135 (weekdays), €99 (weekend).

Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com. Prices from: zł.

231 (weekends), zł. 528 (weekdays). Gym and swimming pool. Central location only 20 minutes from the airport. All rooms with panoramic view.

Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com.

Single and double rooms: zł.265-480.

Wellness centre and sauna.

The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220.

24-hour fitness centre for guests only.

Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, tel. 22 450 6100. Single & double rooms: €77126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna.

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Single & double rooms zł. 420-490 (weekend rate from zł.250). First Class Fitness Centre.

Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €95200. Swimming pool now open to the public.

Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.

4-star hotels

Radisson Blu (B5) pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl. Single & double rooms €60-94. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.

Holiday Inn (C4) ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com. Single room: €100 (weekend), €124 (weekdays), double room: €120 (weekend), €144 (weekdays). Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.­ Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4) ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl.

Single & double rooms: €78-112.

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport)

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WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2013

Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com. Single & double rooms: €60-235. 24-hour fitness centre for hotel guests only.

HEALTH & BEAUTY FITNESS

Club Oasis Fitness Centre & Spa (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt), www.cluboasis. pl. Includes an 18 meter pool, jacuzzi, sauna, steam room and a gym equipped with the latest digital and variable resistance equipment. Classes include zumba, aqua zumba, power yoga and pilates. Day rate of zł. 100, for longer term deals enquire direct.

Fitness Centre (E5) ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton), www.sheraton.com/ warsaw. The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section.

Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning. Prices from zł. 529 per month to zł. 3,420 for annual membership.

Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www.holmesplace.pl.

Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change.

For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premier ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), www.holmesplace.pl. Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland. Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal

trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area.

Their latest outpost in the Marriott also has a pool and has been updated accordingly to fit the HP quality check. For prices enquire direct.

Pure Platinum (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), level 3, www. purepoland.com. The Pure gym offers treadmills, cross trainers, bikes and rowing machines equipped with screens, as well as sauna and personal training. Updated prices were yet to be released at press time, though shouldn’t go much beyond zł. 200 per month.

RiverView Wellness Centre (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), www. riverview.com.pl. Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

SPAS & SALONS

Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19, ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, 691 782 453, www.bartekjanuszpl. A swanky little spot that will bring your hair back to life and lend it a Victoria’s Secret runway-style twist.

B&B Clinic ul. Grzybowska 3, tel. 22 403 65 72, www.bbclinic.pl. An array of body and beaity treatments inside pristine five star facilities.

Whether you want to slim down using the latest technologies, rejuvenate the skin or relax during a massage, there’s few better qualified. 10% for Insider readers.

DS Instytut Al. Ujazdowskie 24, tel. 22 622 13 81, www. dsinstytut.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:00-16:00. Different treatments: some relaxing, some energizing, some both! The latest player on the block has set its cards on technology, packing a pretty penny into state-of-the-art machines that deliver Hollywood results.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414, www. fiuufiuu.pl. A wonderful quick fix salon that

REVOLUTIONARY SUNDAYS 70/7 On the 7th Day of the week you will pay only 70% of your total bill, every Sunday in any of our 3 dining venues: Parmizzano’s, Champions or Panorama.

Reservations: +48 22 630 6306 or mail@marriott.com.pl

WARSAW MARRIOTT HOTEL Jerozolimskie 65/79 00-697 Warsaw WarsawMarriott.pl or WarsawMarriott.com

LIFESTYLE makes use of the latest Ericson products.

Pearl Spa at the InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, 43 floor, tel. 22 328 8643, www.pearlspa.pl. This bright and full of windows spa has an eclectic menu of “body rituals” such as the Maghreb ritual and Ayurvedic massages Similan ul. Wiertnicza 120, tel. 22 858 16 48, www. similan.pl. Open Tue-Sun 11:00-22:00. Allow the stresses of everyday city life to evaporate at Similan; the Thai massages are relaxing, detoxifying and stimulating.

Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 22 582 9474, 517 012 880, www.spasungate.pl.

Open 10:00-24:00. A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments as well as a VIP room for couples.

MEDICAL MEDICAL PRIVATE CLINICS Austria-Dent-Center (B4) ul. Żelazna 54, tel. 22 654 2116, www.austriadent.pl.

Centrum Damiana ul. Wałbrzyska 46, ul. Foksal 3/5, al. K.E.N 103, tel. 22 566 2222, www.damian.com.pl.

Lux Med Medical Clinics ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4); ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24hr hotline: 801 800 808, for mobile users: tel. 22 332 2888, www.luxmed.pl.

of Internal Medicine, and a graduate of a USA Medical Residency (Harrisburg Hospital, PA). Can also arrange consultations with American specialists. Visit www.warsawphysician.eu or call +48 607 300 545 to arrange an appointment/house call.

Medicover Center Atrium, Al. Jana Pawła II 27, ul. Inflancka 5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. 18, ul. Domaniewska 37, ul. Puławska 278, ul. Poligonowa 3. Hotline: 19 677 or 500 900 500, Medicover Hospital on Al. Rzeczypospolitej 5 in Wilanów tel. 500 900 900, Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com. English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress and much more besides.

Wilanow Family Practice ul. Kosiarzy 37/90, tel. 22 642 7404 / 602 268 826, www.wilanowfamilypractice.pl.

Open Mon-Weds & Fri 12:30-19:00; Sat 9:0012:00. Highly recommended by all, book a visit to English-speaking Dr. Andrzej Gajer for consultations, medical evaluations and minor surgical procedures. Appointments outside of the above-mentioned times are available on request.

POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS

Akademia PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11, tel. 792 887 350, www.pff-warsaw.com, email: academy@pff-warsaw.com. Akademia PFF offers a wide range of Polish courses for foreigners - individuals and groups.

Professional and friendly tutors with effective teaching styles.

World Leader in

Implantology and Dental Aesthetics

WARSAW

MALO CLINIC Warsaw is Central Europe's first clinic Malo Clinic (C4) of the world’s leader in Implantology and Dental Aesthetics, offering full dental care, and above all Rondo 1, surgery. advancedONZ dental implant Located in a modern office complex Rondo 1 at tel.

22 335 7755, www.maloclinics.com/ Rondo ONZ, in the city center of Warsaw, the Clinic can be easily accessed as it is located in only 10 minutes from Central Railway Station, fromclinic polska.

This world class30 minutes dental the F. Chopin International Airport, near bus, tram stops and subway station (Świętokrzyska Station). incorporates five dental offices, an operating Entry into a secured car park in the Rondo 1 building – off Pańska street. room, two recovery rooms and a state-of-theServices Available artMALO diagnostic center.

CLINIC Warsaw provides the best specialists and the latest diagnostic equipment (including computer tomography), in the field of:

Conservative Dentistry Dental SurgeryPractice Medical Łukasz Kiljanek Endodontics Implantology Prosthetics Orthodontics A Aesthetic physician certified by the American Board

Edu & More ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok. 81, tel. 22 622 1441, www.eduandmore.com. Business & everyday Polish. Full-time courses and innovative courses of Polish online. Experience, good location & price friendly. Students of full-time courses get online course for free.

Klub Dialogu Tel. 664 788 994, www.klubdialogu.pl.

Individual and group courses held either on-

MALO CLINIC Office complex Rondo 1 (+48) 22 335 77 55 Warsaw 1st floor in Building A warsaw@maloclinics.com Rondo ONZ 1 www.maloclinics.com/polska | www.maloclinics.com

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WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2013

site or at the venue of your choice. Tailor-made packages inc. both intensive and weekend courses.

Modern.edu School of Language Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19 lok.21, tel. 22 881 85 14, biuro@ modern.edu.pl, www.modern. edu.pl. A wide range of Polish classes and customized courses at attractive prices either in small groups or private classes.

Schola Polonica ul. Jaracza 3, tel. 22 625 2652, www.schola.pl.

Master Polish in a friendly atmosphere. All levels catered for, with groups never going beyond a maximum of five people.

COMMUNITY

Expatriates PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11. tel. + 48 792 887 350www.pff-warsaw.com e-mail: legal@pff-warsaw.comOffers services for foreigners coming to Poland, including obtaining residence and work permits, visas, setting up business activities as well as legal services and support for foreign investors and business entities. For more information call or write: +48 22 828 15 01; + 48 792 887 350, legal@pff-warsaw.co International Christian Fellowship & International Community Center Interdenominational services in English (10:30am, Sunday). Facilities, programs and community activities for all ages: children, students and adults. Contact tel. 607 309 490, roy.taylor@icfwarsaw. org, www.icfwarsaw.org Professionals in Warsaw Hosts meetings in the city to link up professionals, those new to Warsaw, or those here for the long haul. For more info contact Andy (mob. 691 535 566) or the group page on Facebook.

*

Toastmasters International Toastmasters Polska club invites all to their weekly meetings to master the art of public speaking and presentation skills. Meetings are held every Wednesday at 19.00.

For membership info check: toastmasters.org. pl or ring Etan at tel. 696 292 451.

World Leader in Implantology and Dental Aesthetics

WARSAW

MALO CLINIC Warsaw is Central Europe's first clinic of the world’s leader in Implantology and Dental Aesthetics, offering full dental care, and above all advanced dental implant surgery.

Applying the MALO CLINIC medical protocols with the same quality and consistency pat terns defined to every clinic in the world, MALO CLINIC Warsaw offers comprehensive treatments.

Services Available MALO CLINIC Warsaw provides the best specialists and the latest diagnostic equipment (including computer tomogra­ phy), in the field of: •Dental Surgery •Implantology •Aesthetic Prosthetics •Conservative Dentistry •Endodontics •Orthodontics

Come meet us and book your appointment +48 (0) 516 039 713 warsaw@maloclinics.com

MALO CLINIC HEALTH & WELLNESS Established in 1995 by Paulo Malo, is a world’s leader in Implantology and Dental Aesthetics, based on a number of treated patients, complexity of care delivered as well as the magnitude and international spread of its existing clinics. Along the years, Paulo Malo, together with his clinical team, developed several innovative techniques, protocols and products, namely the concept known as the All-on-4™– which allows the placement of fixed teeth in a single day, without the need of bone grafting. These techniques were distinguished with several awards.

MALO CLINIC Warsaw

Temporary Location ulica Pod Strzechą 7 lok. 12.

+48 (0) 516 039 713 warsaw@maloclinics.com

www.maloclinics.com/polska www.maloclinics.com

facebook.com/warsawinsider

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STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

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Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2

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WARSAW INTERNATIONS Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’ and connect ex-pats from all walks of life. Covering 300 cities since first forming five years back, the InterNations group has become one of the most successful networking events of the ex-pat calendar.

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77

Stadion Narodowy

Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

ChoCdhkod łyiaKłyam kieicwzaic BiaB iew Kaiem za ńień

WHY WARSAW?

THE WONDER YEARS

For its 200th issue, we travel through time to chat with two expats, Harry and Dennis, who remember the naughty 90s when the Insider first launched.

WI: Was it difficult doing business?

D: Poland, of course, wasn’t in the EU – it took six months to get a work permit, so despite having a visa it was half a year till I could get paid. I went to the company’s bank as Szef with the transfer, and a guy in some vile Sunset Moda suit refused to process it on the grounds that I was: a) foreign; b) had signed it myself. I went ballistic.

WI: It sounds like a different age…

D: Shopping was a nightmare: hardly any supermarkets, no shopping centers, and plenty of ‘Pani Nie Ma’s’. You’d see something in a shop only to be told it was for display, not sale. Credit cards were a mystery then, as well. It was quite possible to use your credit cards and the charge never reached your account. There were very few men’s clothes shops or toiletries: we used to arrive with a suitcase of

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new clothes and another with food. Later, 2000 I think, I remember sitting in Klif with my daughter when a mafia shootout occurred: we hid in Bomi until it was over…

H: Customer service was tragic: some friends once phoned in a beer order while sitting in a cafe. The next week the cafe banned cell-phones. Of course, I’ll also never forget the first winter – I found 20 Vietnamese queuing outside the flat opposite mine. An entrepreneur had rented it and turned it into a ‘Vietnamese telephone exchange’: a place where they could phone home for far less than the rates then extorted by state-owned monopoly, Telekomunikacja Polska. Three weeks later it was gone, leaving a rather large bill.

WI: But they were debauched times, right?

D: There were few bars in the early years due to the mafia’s activities: we used to go to the Emerald pub, a green shed owned by Ollie Morgan. You didn’t need to smoke there, just breathe in. It was so heaving the building practically moved in time to the music.

WI: Do you miss these times?

D: The city was more exciting then, more mysterious and certainly more lawless. Where the Westin Hotel stands was a favorite dumping ground used by the mafia for naked, barbed wire bound bodies. But while there was some hostility towards foreigners, most people were curious, and genuinely eager to meet and speak with us.

PHOTOGRAPH AGENCJA FORUM

WI: Day 1 in Warsaw, what happened next?

Dennis: I first landed in Warsaw in 1992. I was horrified that practically no one spoke English, and that was at the airport! In the taxi, I remember thinking, ‘Oh Christ, what have I done?’ Few people spoke English, so learning the language was vital.

Harry: On my first night, in 1996, a BMW blew up by my flat: a dispute between ‘independent businessmen’. The next night another car caught fire, this time just an unlucky owner trying to start his East German PoS…