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january 01

(197)

2013

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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JANUARY 2013

THE WARSAW BLUES

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PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

o, the world didn’t meet its end in December, though I’ve got to say, there were times when it felt like it would. Put together in a dark, candlelit room, this issue faced serious disruption thanks to fever and flu. All things considered, there’s a bitter irony to that – this is, after all, our wasp-waisted wellbeing edition. Anyway, back to business, and as much as I’d like one, I don’t need a crystal ball to forecast what January will bring. It’s a time when Warsaw turns blue and stops in its tracks; when the snow becomes a poisoned porridge of gunk and goo, and a time when locals shuffle forth with pinched, gloomy faces that bring to mind the Easter Island statues. In short, Warsaw in January is a pretty grim place. It’s for this reason we’ve spoken to three experts about surviving the winter blues. We’ve also used the cover of the night to creep out of quarantine and engage in some sport – Mr Ingham, for instance, finds the back story on the joyously named Warsaw Beavers ice hockey club. Myself, I’ve divorced a Homer Simpson lifestyle and joined the local gym. Elsewhere, we’ve checked out Poland’s best spas, presenting you the chance to get outta’ town and appreciate Poland in its still, frozen form: chill out indeed. January is also a time of new beginnings: out with the old and in with the new. In some cases though, the changes aren’t always for the greater good. On page 11 we reveal the latest twist in the saga of the Finnish Houses. A much treasured part of Warsaw, the annihilation of these historic wooden cabins is already in full swing, and this in spite of protestations from the Finnish Embassy. “They are a unique example of Warsaw architecture and a unique souvenir from Warsaw’s post-war reconstruction,” says Finnish Ambassador Jari Vilen, “the embassy can help find money for their restoration, and for certain Finnish companies would be interested in the project.” The local Mayor, however, appears to have gone deaf, another casualty of Warsaw in winter. Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com

on the cover On the front this time, and specially to coincide with this health-minded issue, we’ve got a view of the top-floor pool of Warsaw’s InterContinental: the highest swim tub in Europe! (see page 20). (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

If you can’t wait four weeks for the next issue of the Insider – and most people can’t – then check our Facebook page for daily updates and photos of the latest events, openings, international stories about Poland, plus free tickets and other great giveaways. And of course, don’t forget to like us while you’re there. DECEMBER’S HIGHLIGHTS: Famed Pawiliony hangout Klaps (Spank) was named one of the world’s best boozers by esteemed British daily The Guardian. Birthdays galore: Warsaw’s iconic palm tree celebrated ten years at the top while Dworzec Centralny made it (miraculously?) to 37. Free tickets for: madcap, horse-loving Italian sculptor Maurizio Cattelan’s exhibition at the CSW, jazz band FUSK at Pardon To Tu and an exhibition and wine party at the Royal Castle. The capital at Christmas: the latest photos of the festive markets, the big wheel and the Old Town Christmas tree and the reconstructed rainbow. Woop! For more: www.facebook.com/ warsawinsider

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what’s inside

JANUARY 2013

20

LISTINGS

Culture

Restaurants

07 O  pener Kino Iluzjon 07 Calendar Music, art and events around town 29 I nsider’s Pick Silk and Spicy 34 Luncheonettes Fabryka Koronek

Cafes & Wine Bars

53 Insider’s Pick Chłodna 25

Nightlife

57 Insider’s Pick MiTO

INfront

11 News in Brief The Finnish Houses face the end, Miss Polski heads abroad, Poland’s building of the century is decided 14 Take a Building Reduta Bank Polski 16 Relics of the PRL Hotel Forum, Dworzec Centralna celebrates its birthday and Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem 18 Head to Head Warsaw’s best burgers face-off Editor-in-chief Art Director Editor Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

FEATURES

20 Gym Winning the battle of the bulge

20 Ice Hockey On the ice with the Warsaw Beavers

20 Beating the Blues Three experts say their piece

80 Why Warsaw? Emiliano Castagna of InterNations

Contributors: Bartosz Bajerski Gill Boelman-Burrows Kit F. Chung Anna J. Kutor Michał Miszkurka Paula Rewald Agnieszka Le Nart Ed Wight

Lifestyle

71 Insider’s Pick Bartek Janusz Salon

26 Travel Spas around Poland

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com David Ingham dingham@valkea.com Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Maria Pięta mpieta@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Children

67 Insider’s Pick Colourstrings Music School

76 Street Index 77 Classifieds 78 Warsaw Map

Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through insider@ warsawinsider.pl

Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS tel. 022 783-6000

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2013 Warsaw Insider.

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WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2013

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

Shopping

63 Insider’s Pick Secret Life (of Things)


BEST OF WARSAW 2012

The Warsaw Insider celebrated its ninth annual Best of Warsaw awards on November 29th, with a glittering ceremony that attracted the cream of the capital’s gastronomic sector. Acknowledging Warsaw’s growing culinary and after-dark scene, the event saw 300 guests gather in Syreni Śpiew and was acclaimed as the most successful BOW gala to date, as well as an indicator of the bright future Warsaw faces. “The recent emergence of world class dining in Warsaw,” said editor-in-chief Alex Webber, “is a direct reflection on Warsaw’s emergence as a world class city.” Wise words indeed. Thanks all for coming, and see you next year! Joseph's

Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo

Platinium

Sushi Zuzhi

Syreni Śpiew

Nabo

PARTNERS

LOTTERY

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WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2013


And the winners are… Best Restaurant Design

Concept 13

Best New Bar

Tamika

Atelier by Amaro

Syreni Śpiew Best Gourmet Grocery Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Positive Trends Award Tamika, as presented by Monika Mrozowska Best Welcome to Poland

U Kucharzy

Best Contemporary Polish Kurt Scheller

Champagne Bar by Flaming & Co.

Atelier by Amaro

Best Polish with Style

Rożana

Best New Restaurant

Atelier by Amaro

Award for Culinary Achievement

La Rotisserie

Michael Goerdt of the Bristol Hotel, as presented by Kurt Scheller Best Restaurant for a Business Meeting

Concept 13 Best Chef

Wojciech Modesto Amaro Best Wine Bar

Joseph’s

Most Kid Friendly

Nabo

Best Cocktails

Champagne Bar by Flaming & Co. Best Rich & Pretty Club

JURORS

Platinium MONIKA MROZOWSKA

Best Hotel Restaurant

La Rotisserie

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Reviews: Kino Iluzjon 7

culture events 7 / market 9 / screening room 9

Events this month

Insider’s Pick

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Concert 8th New Year’s Concert Warsaw Filharmonia, ul. Jasna 5 This annual event has become a New Year’s institution since first being set up by the Jan Kiepura Mazovian Music Theater. The 2013 edition will feature soloists Victoria Yasterbova (soprano) and Siergey Semishur (tenor) from the Mariinsky Theatre of St. Petersburg. Tickets available at ebilet.pl

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Carol Concert Kino Iluzjon ul. Narbutta 50A, tel. 22 646 1260, en.fn.org.pl.

all photographs courtesy of organizers or artists

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conic Warsaw picture house Kino Iluzjon opened its doors for the first time in four years at the end of 2012 following a major renovation job. The cinema made its name showing classic movies such as the 1928 version of Pan Tadeusz, which opened the newly revamped picture house last November, as well as hosting numerous international festivals that have entertained the great and the good from the world of film: Werner Herzog, Ken Russell, and Andrzej Wajda, as well as the members of British comedy group, Monthy Python. Designed by Mieczysław Piprek (also responsible for the now defunct Kino Ochota, Kino W-Z and Kino 1 Maja), the building housing Iluzjon came into being in 1949, and is best known for its cool socialist style, modernist touches and rotund façade. Originally called Stolica (Capital), it was renamed in 1997 and became home of the National Film Archive’s Iluzjon cinema, screening up to 1,000 films per year. Looking increasingly ramshackle, it survived calls for its demolition (primarily thanks to a few student protests), but was eventually closed in 2008 whereupon an intense program of renovation was launched. And thank God for that. It was while workmen were clanking about that a huge stash of unexploded WWII munitions was discovered right underneath. With that problem diffused, the new brushed up Iluzjon reopened for trade back in the middle of November. Specializing in the cult films of the past (with favored directors including Buster Keaton, Billy Wilder and Federico Fellini), it’s the polar opposite to the asinine experience found in the modern multiplex.

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Grażyna Brodzińska Warsaw Filharmonia, ul. Jasna 5 This classical carol concert is the perfect way to banish those early January blues and keep that festive spirit alive for at least one more day. With vocals from Andrzej Lampert and music courtesy of the Kraków Philharmonic Youth orchestra. Tickets from zł. 70, available at ticketpro.pl

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Martial arts Aikido Seminar Dojo SOTO Karolkowa, ul Karolkowa 28 Pascal Durchon, a disciple of renowned sensei Christian Tissier, will teach those in attendance the Japanese martial art of aikido which directly translates as “the way of unifying life energy.” This

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culture contribute by ensuring they buy a little red heart sticker from one of the thousands of volunteers involved this year.

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Concert Trust 1500m2, ul. Solec 18 This synth-pop duo consists of vocalist Robert Alfons and producer Maya Postepski, who describe their music as the “dark fumes of desire, erotomania, speed and tears.” Their most well-known track to date is Sulk from their debut LP TRST. Tickets from zł. 30, available from ticketpro.pl

Charity Event The Great Christmas Charity Orchestra 2013 (WOŚP 2013) Various venues across Poland Enjoying its twenty-first outing this charity extravaganza has made a household name of red glasses-wearing founder Jurek Owsiak, while also raising hundreds of millions for worthy causes in Poland. There will be numerous live concerts in the country’s main cities as well as the chance for ordinary people to

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of the toughest of traditional English vocabulary and with only the bare minimum of cringing moments!” Tickets are priced between zł. 20 to zł. 60, with all proceeds going towards the Litewska Children’s Hospital.

Concert Fritz Kalkbrenner 1500m2, ul. Solec 18 Described as creating a perfect fusion of techno and soul German DJ/Producer Fritz Kalkbrenner made his name creating the soundtrack for acclaimed movie Berlin Calling, in cooperation with his brother Paul. This concert will see him perform tracks from his latest offering Sick Travellin’ as well as music from his two earlier releases.

Ballet

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Thieves Like Us Klub Powiększenie, ul. Nowy Świat 27 Named after a song by legendary Manchester band New Order this electro foursome released their fourth studio album Bleed Bleed Bleed last year. With a dark 80s sound and haunting vocals they should fit in perfectly in this basement venue. Tickets from zł. 30, available from ticketpro.pl

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Swan Lake Teatr Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Tchaikovsky’s classic ballet is based on an old Russian folktale and tells the story of a princess turned in to a swan by an evil sorcerer’s curse. Tickets from zł. 47, available at eventim.pl

Concert

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Concert Enter Shikari Klub Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 These boys were part of the new wave of alternative electronic bands that emerged in the mid to late 2000s, with their debut record Take to the Skies selling more than 100,000 copies in the UK alone. Undoubtedly one of the most hardcore bands out there in terms of live performances, fans can expect a raucous show with amps turned right up to 11. Tickets from zł. 75 available from ticketpro.pl

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Concert

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Theater Blithe Spirit Teatr Kamienica, Al. Solidarnosci 93, English-language theater is a rarity in Warsaw, so make a note in your diary for January 22nd – namely, the next performance of Noel Coward’s ‘Blithe Spirit’. If you’re unfamiliar with it (woe to you!), then the premise is thus: while gathering material for his next novel Charles Condomine invites Madame Arcati, a flamboyant medium, round his house to conduct a séance. But it all goes wrong when, after the séance, the ghost of Condomine’s first wife decides to stay on and haunt him. The temperamental Elvira does her best to disrupt his marriage to his new wife Ruth, who can neither see nor hear the ghost. Coward’s wit is in no short supply, and the production has already proved a hit among local theater goers. “All I can say is if you can spare the cash then I really recommend it,” comments the Insider’s Gill Boelman-Burrows. “The five native Polish actors fought, with true panache, through some

Yasmin Levy Palladium, ul. Złota 9 This Israeli-born singer is one of the world’s best known modern interpreters of Sephardic music, with her songs also containing elements of flamenco guitar and traditional Persian sounds. With a distinctive, emotive voice and passionate Latin vibe, no-one who hears this talented performer can fail to be impressed.

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Concert Marina and the Diamonds Klub Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Welsh singer-songwriter Marina Diamandis is now two albums in to a career that has already seen her conquer the European charts. After exploding on to the music scene with her debut release The Family Jewels, the 27 year old is currently touring to promote the Euro-pop infused follow up Electra Heart. Tickets from zł. 60, available form ticketpro.pl

all images courtesy of artists or organizers

full day workshop will include classes and seminars to help those involved get a better understanding of this discipline. Entrance for the day costs zł. 70 and more information on the event can be found at aikido-ab. waw.pl

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2013

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movies opening this month

Lee, with Irrfan Khan, Gérard Depardieu

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4 Rise of the Guardians (Strażnicy Marzeń) Animation/Comedy/Family. Dir. William Joyce, Peter Ramsey

Wreck-It Ralph (Ralph Demolka) Animation/Comedy/Family. Dir. Rich Moore, with Olaf Lubaszenko, Jolanta Fraszyńska

The Paperboy (Pokusa) Thriller. Dir. Lee Daniels, with Matthew McConaughey, Zac Efron, and John Cusack

Django Unchained Western. Dir. Quentin Tarantino, with Jamie Foxx, Leonardo DiCaprio and Samuel L. Jackson

Ongoing market

Christmas Market Christmas might be over, but the Old Town’s Christmas Market isn’t! With over 70 wooden stalls, food outlets and bars to choose from, and produce provided by sellers from Austria, Croatia, Germany, Lithuania, Slovakia, as well as Poland, a post-yuletide visit here is certainly recommended. Hot bowls of smelly bigos, Bratwurst, smalec and various cured meats and sausages are among the hefty treats available to stock up on for the long winter ahead. Hot mulled wine, regional beers, and warm winter beer are also on offer, with an indoor bar with long wooden tables protecting patrons from the cold weather outside.

11 The Collector 3D (Kolekcjoner 3D) Horror. Dir. Marcus Dunston, with Josh Stewart, Andrea Roth Jack Reacher Action/Crime. Dir. Christopher McQuarrie, with Tom Cruise, Robert Duvall

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Life of Pi 3D Adventure/Drama. Dir. Ang

Broken Drama. Dir. Rufus Norris, with Tim Roth, Eloise Laurence

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From

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ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFIC, GET THE OPEN ROAD AND EXPLORE POLAND WITH WEEKEND CAR RENTAL OFFER. Contact: +48 22 672 65 65 www.avis.pl * net price per day, min.3 days required.

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INFRONT ARCHITECTURE 12 / BURGERS 18 / LOCAL CAUSE 11 / NATIONAL 12 / NEWS 12 / PRL 16 / TAKE A BUILDING 14

LOCAL CAUSE

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Historic Houses Not Finn-ished Yet

In a controversial move that’s sparked public outrage Warsaw authorities have begun the process of knocking down the city’s few remaining Finnish houses. The much-loved wooden huts originally arrived in Poland via train in the 1940s, after Stalin’s henchmen had confiscated the cabins as part of WWII reparations against the former Nazi ally. They were subsequently used to house many of the workers and architects who helped rebuild the city after the war. Yet despite the almost universal praise for these quaint looking structures, they are set to see the wrecking ball because they don’t fit in with Warsaw’s modern vision. But all is not lost, as Finland’s Ambassador to Poland, Jari Vilén, has now waded in to the argument hoping to persuade Warsaw Mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz-Waltz to back down. Allegedly, in a meeting between the political leaders, Vilén mooted the idea of saving one block of houses and preserving them for use as a cultural center, museum, cafes or even a Finnish sauna. Should he succeed, locals will owe a big “kiitos” (thank you) to Mr Vilén. (DI) facebook.com/warsawinsider

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INFRONT

BRIEFING ED WIGHT’S NEWS BITES Stiff Parking Penalties Motorists are facing stiff new penalties in Poznań thanks to vigilante wardens who point out their parking cock-ups. The mystery wardens issue bizarre ‘Black C*ck’ tickets stuck on windscreens of badly parked cars. Each ticket shows the black outline of a male member with the caption: “You have received the Black C*ck for dickhead parking.” But real-life parking wardens say the tickets undermine their authority. “It is up to us to catch bad parkers, not anyone else,” moaned one. ARCHITECTURE

Cop That!

The Scientific Information Centre and Academic Library in Katowice has scooped the award for “Best Polish Building of the 21st Century”. The red-brick structure was created by Polish architects Dariusz Herman, Piotr Smierzewski and Wojciech Subalski who designed the building’s façade to correspond to the clay bricks of neighboring dwellings. Speaking at the ceremony Polish President Bronisław Komorowski praised the trio declaring, “Whether our grandchildren, great-grand-children and great-great-grandchildren are proud of Poland depends on our sense of ambition.” (DI) NATIONAL

Beautiful Art

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Kraków art student Katarzyna Krzeszowska will represent Poland at next year’s Miss World competition after triumphing in the Miss Polski contest last month. The final of Miss World takes place in Indonesia in September and Ms Krzeszowska, who says her favorite painter is Salvidor Dali, will be quizzed on her knowledge of current affairs as well as being asked her hopes (world peace) in her quest to win the crown. (DI) WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2013

A traffic cop who spent zł. 18,000 on a boob job for his former girlfriend is suing her for compensation after she dumped him. Model Patrycja Pająk, 24, says she broke off with police officer Łukasz M. because he was obsessed with the size of her breasts. Now bitter Łukasz is suing her for the full amount he spent.

Flushed Out A mum is trying to evict her stay-athome 46-year-old son after he bricked up her loo to stop her nagging. Now mum Wladysława, 65, has to use her neighbor’s lavatory in Ostróda after son Marek built a wall across the door while she was out shopping. “He won’t let me use the loo so I have to go next door,” she complained. “She never stops going on at me,” chimed an unrepentant Marek.

Cheddar Gorge Thieves who tried to flee with a two kilo block of cheese from a grocer’s shop were arrested after store staff locked the doors and refused to let them out, say police in Swiętochlowice. The pair asked for earlier thefts of potatoes, broccoli, and plums to be taken into consideration. “All they needed was the meat and they’d have been set for a dinner party,” said a police spokesman.

PHOTOGRAPH TOP BY JAKUB CERTOWICZ, BOTTOM BY MACIEJ PAWELA

Bricks and Mortar


INFRONT

TAKE A BUILDING

BY ALEX WEBBER

Past & Present Perfect

All too often Warsaw developers get it wrong, building corporate castles lacking grace and maturity. But what happens when they get it right?

Reduta Bank Polski, inter-war years

The landmark atrium then and now

The former Imperial Bank back to its best

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PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF GHELAMCO

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arsaw’s skyline is becoming quite something – namely, a macho competition of masculine might: my skyscraper is bigger than yours, that sort of thing. For every tasteful tower (Cosmopolitan, InterConti), along comes an awkward, clumsy project maladjusted to the city (Złota 44: take a bow). But these are obvious examples. Closer to sea level, the same battle between the tasteful and the tasteless is also being fought. In Mokotów, the TVP HQ is an outstanding example of Disney-meets-doom. In the center, Norman Foster’s Metropolitan isn’t much better. “For ugliness,” write The New York Times, “the Metropolitan is amorphous in shape, gray, with bunker-like windows.” But what of the good guys? Winning universal acclaim is the Senator development (ul. Bielańska 10/12). Marrying history to the modern, this gleaming office compound is an exceptional example of thoughtful construction. It’s also got a bit of a story. The site originally functioned as the 18th century Royal Mint, before being leveled by the Russians in 1907. Over the next four years, under the watchful eye of architect Leon Benois, a new building took shape – the Warsaw branch of the Imperial Bank of Russia. The art nouveau leviathan continued to serve financial functions after the last Russians left: first as the Polish National Bank, then under ze Germans as the Issuing Bank. It became a leading insurgent target during the Uprising days, and a number of plaques pay testament to the bitter battles that took place outside. Shelled to smithereens, its disintegrating hulk cast a shadow over Warsaw until 1965. Then, the wrecking crews moved in, demolishing pretty much everything aside from the west wing. Over the next few decades the skeletal remains stood fenced off while the city pondered the next step. At one stage, the plot was mooted as a possible location for the Uprising Museum, though plans for that soon died a death. Eventually purchased by Ghelamco, a new office compound was constructed, with the final results unveiled last year. Surprisingly, what’s sprung up hasn’t been an anonymous glass block, rather a development that has kept in mind the rich history of the place. Sensitively restored, the west wing has kept the bullet wounds on the façade, while other exterior features include a safe door poking out of an upper floor, and a shattered window frame hanging at an angle. Inside, too, features of old have been respected – the main lobby has been designed to mimic what stood here before as accurately as possible, while sections of glass flooring have been incorporated to reveal part of the foundations from the original mint. The sterling work hasn’t gone unnoticed, and September 2012 saw it voted Europe’s Best Office Development in the European Property Awards.


INFRONT

PRL PAGE (’52-’89) Warsaw’s Dworzec Centralna celebrated its 37th birthday in December and now a new book has been released to commemorate the men behind this iconic remnant of the old regime. ARPS is named after architects Arseniusz Romanowicz (AR) and Piotr Szymaniak (PS), and contains texts about the duos most well-known designs including Warsaw’s station, as well as some 200 photos of their creations. An English-language version of the tome is slated for release in the next few months.

In current terms, Warsaw now fits the mold of most capitals: tall and twinkly, its skyline punctured by glittering financial fortresses. The story of the skyscraper, however, is a relatively recent one – in Warsaw at least. For years the Palace of Culture brooded over the city, and it wasn’t until the 70s that the capital would receive its first ‘western’ style tower. The problem was, having decided to build a skyscraper in the first place, the government realized no one in Poland was qualified to do so. As such, the Swedes were called in, specifically architect Sten Samuelson. His creation, the Forum Hotel, was unveiled on January 24, 1974. Standing 96 meters in height, it was immediately installed as Poland’s second tallest building, and caused controversy aplenty. Locals nicknamed it ‘the chocolate bar’, thanks to its yellowish brown façade, while one critic, Jerzy Waldorff, went as far as to declare it Sweden’s revenge for their 1656 defeat at The Battle of Częstochowa. Others loved it. Regarded as the top hotel in Poland, the lobby bar became a ‘see and be seen’ hangout. Even so, a night upstairs was out of the question, and was only an option if you carried clout with the authorities. Used primarily by foreigners, it famously hosted ABBA in 1976. In the years following Communism the Forum fell down the pecking order, the once celebrated bar becoming the haunt of beak nosed prostitutes trolling for custom. But behold, the last ten years have seen this landmark lent a new lease of life. Reinvented as the Novotel Warszawa Centrum, gone are the fusty furnishings, and so to the garish brown cladding – replaced instead by a sleek silver skin. Today, what was the pride of the PRL is symbolic of the new face of Warsaw.

First mentioned in the letters of Rosa Luxembourg, Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem is known to many as the top secret restaurant where the Communist elite once wined and dined: Castro, Mao and Lenin among others. Actually, that’s all a bit of clever PR fakery, but don’t let that ruin a good story. A cheery, commie themed restaurant, the Red Pig (Żelazna 68), doesn’t take itself seriously, and is just the place if you prefer to remember communism as a jolly good jape. Filled with the trimmings of the age – stern party portraits and red banners – customers trade vodka shots while perusing a hilarious menu divided into sections ‘for dignitaries’ and ‘the proletariat’.

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PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP: EWA DYSZLEWICZ © CENTRUM ARCHITEKTURY, AGENCJA FORUM, ANNA J. KUTOR

The Hotel Forum


NEW ORLEANS GENTLEMEN’S CLUB & RESTAURANT

THE ART OF ELEGANT SEDUCTION

BAR, RESTUARANT, NIGHT CLUB 11 ZGODA STREET, WARSAW WWW.NEWORLEANS.PL INFOONEWORLEANS.PL TEL. +48 22 826 48 31


INFRONT

HEAD TO HEAD The Burger King Ceasefire! The burger wars of 2012 came to a head around Christmas, with a record number of joints casting their claim as Warsaw’s best burger. It’s been bloody, it’s been messy, and it’s been dangerous on the waist – this January, the Insider brings you six of the best…

BURGER BAR ul. Puławska 74/80 (enter from ul. Olkuska)

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5 plus

The orange walls and American number plates make it look like a last minute decoration job. And with the amount of footfall this place gets, expect lots of soggy napkins and other debris floating about. Have they jumped the shark with the new location?

A simple style offset by Kermit green walls and cartoonish murals of pre-burger cows. Once the local office bods check out for the day, it feels achingly empty.

A steamy diner style prevails, with customers forced into intimacy with strangers as they share simple formica tables with the general population. The aesthetic shortcomings are numerous.

Location

Bang city center, and great for after-pub munchies.

Hidden in a futuristic compound of offices and condos, finding it is not easy. Persist in your mission to reap the ample rewards.

Only a street away from WarBurger, but it feels so much more. Welcome to the sticks, people.

Presentation

The food comes on wooden trays with chips in metal plant pots: the modern day equivalent of chicken in a basket. As is often the case in Warsaw the coleslaw looks and tastes like it’s seen better days.

No faffing about here, presentation is kept straightforward and simple – you’re here to eat the thing, not look at it. Plus points go to foil-wrapped takeaways.

Whacked into a wire frame basket with a few tortilla snacks scattered in as bonus, it’s a sloppy affair that demands plenty of napkins (bring your own, the non-absorbent ones here are as useful as a chocolate teapot).

Look Out For

The Sex & Violence burger just pips the Muppet in the whacky name stakes. This 200g bad boy is accompanied by rucola and Mascarpone cheese.

Great staff! “Pay for it next time,” came the answer when the Insider was told they couldn’t break a bank note – we’ve not heard that before in PL.

The wagyu beef option is delicious, albeit steeply priced at around the zł. 35 mark. The green chili cheeseburger is a smarter option.

The Heart Attack burger is definitely decent and certainly does the job on random stomach rumbles… but it’s not quite in the burger elite in terms of quality.

Outstanding, thanks in part to ingredients like locally sourced beef and lamb as well as thoughtful sauces and extras not found elsewhere.

All of a sudden, the lack of elbow room matters not. Burger Bar is a stalwart of the scene, which explains why it’s retained a fiercely loyal fan base. Generous dimensions lead to plenty of sticky moments.

The most exciting burger names of any of Warsaw’s current crop, but definitely not the best burgers. It’s a stomach filling option, but there’s much better out there.

Definitely recommended, this latest entrant on the scene looks a good, solid bet for further, future glories. Whisper it quietly, but WarBurger might have competition.

Warsaw’s first burger bar is no longer the best but remains on the leaderboard on account of an occasionally outstanding end product.

Interior Overall rating

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

BURGERATOR ul. Żaryna 2B

Number of Burgers

BARN BURGER ul. Złota 9

Taste

Bobby Burger


BY DAVID INGHAM & ALEX WEBBER

Warburger

Barn Burger

BOBBY BURGER No fixed location (near Metro Świętokrzyska)

LOKAL BISTRO ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64

WARBUGER ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, www.warburger.pl

6

5/6

9 plus

It’s a mobile van, so unless you break in to eat with the chefs the question of interior doesn’t apply. But with some nice wooden garden furniture and an all-weather heater you can still take a seat while you get your daily meat transfusion.

With high ceilings, archways and starch white walls it looks great. With plenty of space and a distant kitchen tucked at the far end there’s also the added advantage of not smelling like a burger once you leave.

Forget the cat, you couldn’t swing a mouse in here. Set in a former street kiosk, there’s about five or so stools propping up a woodsy interior. With their popularity, that means most burgerophiles compete for space outside under the one outdoor heater.

Variable, but usually resides in the city center. It has also been spotted in Powiśle, Mokotów and Praga.

Tourist trail – that part of Warsaw untouched by most who actually live here.

Funky lower Mokotów, with an address next to local legends like Regeneracja and Café Relaks.

Once unwrapped from its brown paper this proved to be an exquisite looking burger encased in a toasted sesame seed bun. Just the right size to get both sets of teeth around.

The burgers arrive wrapped up on a chopping board, and waiting inside is a beautifully presented meal that looks contemporary and appetizing.

Greaseproof paper is wrapped tightly with string and then crammed into small cardboard boxes that threaten to explode outwards. Unraveling it all is like replaying Christmas – only tastier.

The Double Bobby – like a Big Mac, but this one is actually big with two ample slabs of beef.

The Christmas burger. Beef, melted Camembert, fresh cranberries and ruccola – here’s hoping they keep it on the menu once Santa sleighs off.

Keep an eye on their burger of the month. That means anything from bigos burgers (!), to other experimental one-offs that are usually successful.

The Insider went for the Bacon Cheese option and came to a Samuel L. Jackson conclusion: mmmm … that IS a tasty burger!

The meat is high quality and cooked just the right side of medium, while the combination of flavors on the festive option mean a marriage made in heaven.

Wow indeed. The Insider recommends the double chili burger – a combo of Polish Angus topped with jalapenos, piri piri sauce and a slither of bacon: full marks!

The king of takeaway burgers, with a great array of sauces and beautiful seasoned meat. But hey, how enjoyable will they be when the temperature sinks to Minus Ouch?

What’s not to like? Fresh ingredients, a great location, friendly staff, regional beers and great looking, tasty burgers. Now we’re talking!

Voted as Warsaw’s best burger in our 2012 end of year awards, WarBurger are not going to surrender that title anytime soon.

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HEALTH GYM

GYM’LL FIX IT

Enjoyed a Christmas turkey did you? There’s only one winner in that match: the stomach. The Insider investigates how to win the Battle of the Bulge.

T

ime does wicked things. By pursuing the largely irresponsible lifestyle of an adolescent, I’ve ended up looking like anything but one. Don’t apply the ‘my body is a temple’ mantra to me, my body is a dustbin – and now I resemble one. That in itself is hardly a revelation – it’s what happens naturally when you count Marlboro, Big Mac and Guinness as your three favorite brands. What was a revelation, was the bombshell news that my weight was slowly creeping up to the triple digit mark. I hadn’t really noticed before, at least not until the endof-summer sales. It was then I found myself being physically cut out of a jacket in a changing room after getting trapped in a lovely Armani while shopping at Van Graaf – “All staff to the changing room, we have an emergency, all staff to the changing room.” It’s for that reason alone I fast tracked my New Year’s resolution forward two months and broke a lifelong oath to never visit a gym. It was time, I decided, if not to return my body to peak physical fitness, to at least edge back from peak physical fatness. Even so, sitting in the changing room of Holmes Place Hilton for the first time, I couldn’t help but think I’d made some dreadful mistake. “We don’t belong here,” whispered the monkey on my shoulder, “take me to the smoking room of the Tortilla Factory. Take me now.” Monkey is right, I found myself thinking, monkey must be

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WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2013

obeyed. They say the first step is often the hardest, and I can attest to that. It wasn’t just the prompting of an imaginary baboon that had my mind swirling, but the realization he was right – I don’t belong in a gym; the only six pack I’m familiar with is the one sitting in the fridge. “It’s never too late,” says Insider consort Bradley Ernstzen, a freelance personal trainer. “The only time it’s too late to start getting healthy is when they’re lowering you into the ground – then, I’m sorry, your time is up.” Still in a half-mind to leg it back to the pub (by taxi, of course), it’s these words I found myself repeating as I exited the changing room and climbed the steps to the gym. For my first workout I had booked a session with Marcin, one of 20+ trainers employed by Holmes Hilton, and he soon confirmed Ernstzen’s philosophy. “It might sound impossible, but it’s not, it’s never too late to lose weight. But you have chosen a good time to do so – most people first start having heart trouble when they’re 40ish, so if you’re here before then, then that’s a good sign.” As Marcin puts me through the paces I’m encouraged to reveal all. “I need to lose weight,” I say, proudly patting my beer baby bodyline as I pant on a running machine. “First thing,” he warns, “is don’t get fooled by any of those miracle weight loss programs. People say to me all the time, ‘I want to lose ten kilos in a month’, and while it’s perfectly possible, it’s not advisable.” I can tell he senses

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT

BY ALEX WEBBER


Warsaw’s Top Gyms Club Oasis Fitness Centre & Spa (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt), www.cluboasis.pl. Includes an 18 meter pool, jacuzzi, sauna, steam room and a gym equipped with the latest digital and variable resistance equipment. Classes include zumba, aqua zumba, power yoga and pilates. Day rate of zł. 100, for longer term deals enquire direct.

my disappointment. “The thing is,” he continues, “if you lose that amount of weight in such a short time, then you’ve got to make sure you continue your program – otherwise you won’t just get the ten kilos back, you’ll get some extra as a bonus.” Once again, my pre-gym conversation with Mr Ernstzen reminds me he’s right. “The best way to lose weight is to make a decision to change your eating habits and make a plan to stick to it. A sensible healthy eating plan combined with exercise should encourage you to lose about 2 kg a month. Now some will say ‘but that is too little’, but in six months you would have lost 12 kilos and you will keep it off – instead of embarking on a quick fat loss solution that does not work.”  In spite of Marcin’s cautious and logical advice, I can’t help but feel I’ve already lost ten kilos – and we haven’t even finished the warm-up. It’s rigorous and challenging and my head feels like it’s going to explode; early slicks of sweat have become a torrent, and my body is yelling enough. But I plug away, urged on by an indefatigable Marcin. “Cardio, cardio, cardio,” he urges, “that’s what you need to work on, that’s how you’ll lose weight.” At one stage he has me running – knees high, high, high – on a trampoline, and I catch sight of the darts player in the mirror. All sorts of bits and bobs are flopping and flapping about, among them the price tags on my ‘bought it ten minutes ago’ gym outfit. But I care not. I had imagined I’d be confronted by perfect specimens strutting about in neatly pressed outfits – the reality is different. While the gym has a healthy demographic of supermen and glam blonde weather girls, it’s not the vanity parade I expected – there’s no time to feel awkward, and we’re all in it together. Eventually, the session winds down with 20 mins on the bike. Again, it’s another surprise. I look on most gym equipment as wicked contraptions that should have been put on exhibit at the Nuremberg Trials. Here, the stateof-the-art gear makes my view look obsolete – packed with hi-tech wizardry, I admire the calories flying off while engrossed in Sky News. Only when I accidentally jack the bike program up to ‘mountaineering’ level does the pain return. Exhausted, my workout ends with a triumphant feeling that good has conquered evil. Some say gym is addictive, and I’m not surprised in the least – I leave buzzing. Physically shattered, yet at the same time so alive. Say it quietly, but I’m now chalking the days off the calendar for the next end-of-summer sales.

Fitness Centre (E5) ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton), www.sheraton.com/warsaw. The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning. Prices from zł. 529 per month to zł. 3,420 for annual membership. Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www.holmesplace.pl. Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct. Holmes Place Premier ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), www.holmesplace.pl. Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland – we’ve found no reason to disagree. Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. Their latest outpost in the Marriott also has a pool and has been updated accordingly to fit the HP quality check. For prices enquire direct. Pure Platinum ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), level 3, www.purepoland.com. The Pure gym offers treadmills, cross trainers, bikes and rowing machines equipped with screens, as well as sauna and personal training. Updated prices were yet to be released at press time, though shouldn’t go much beyond zł. 200 per month. RiverView Wellness Centre (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), www.riverview.com.pl. Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts and much more besides).

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21


BEAVER PATROL

Always fearless, the Insider straps on the body armor and sniffs out some action with the local ice hockey gods. BY DAVID INGHAM

P

olish Stanley Cup winner Krzysztof Oliwa grew up playing hockey on the ice of his native Tychy before moving on to a successful NHL career with the likes of the New Jersey Devils and the Pittsburgh Penguins. Nicknamed the “Polish Hammer,” 6 foot 5 inch Oliwa was an imposing presence in his role as an on-field enforcer, starting more than 400 punch ups during his illustrious 13-year pro career. I, on the other hand, lost my last ever fight in the school playground some 17 years ago on a unanimous decision, and my only experience of NHL glory came during victorious triumphs over my brother on the classic sport’s game Slap Shot in the halcyon days of the Sega Master System II. That might explain why there were more than a few

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butterflies as I laced up my skates before my first ever ice hockey training session last month. I’d arrived at Torwar II ice rink, the home of the capital’s only ex-pat team, the Warsaw Beavers, some 15 minutes earlier, to see the Beavers assortment of Canadians, Americans, Poles, Finns, Swedes, Slovaks and a Bavarian flying round the rink at lightning speed. But it wasn’t the quickness of the play alone that got my heart beating extra fast, it was more the echoing noise of the puck smashing in to the wall, as well as one of the players angrily whacking the glass in frustration after a missed shot. Formed by a group of six Canadians in 2009 the Beavers community now numbers some 100 people including players families and friends, and according to the team’s Tim

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE MICHAŁ GONERA, OPPOSITE PAGE COURTESY OF THE WARSAW BEAVERS

HEALTH ICE HOCKEY


“I felt like I was preparing for the Battle of Agincourt rather than a late night workout” Opposite, combat ready, author David Ingham springs into battle. This page, the Beavers in action.

Constable, while the players take the two weekly training sessions seriously, the club is as much about the social aspect of getting together for some “liquid sustenance” as it is about the hockey. Luckily for me I was only on a watching brief as far as the skillful Beavers were concerned. I was next up on the ice though, playing with a team of amateur Poles coached by Legia Warszawa player Grzegorz Rostkowski. A friend of mine who happens to be the exact same height and shoe size as me had volunteered to lend me the gear and before I knew it I was in the changing room getting ready for some serious combat. This was about the time I realized that this isn’t just a game, this is war. With various layers of armor, massive protective gloves, gum shields and helmets, I felt like I was preparing for the Battle of Agincourt rather than a late night workout. But once I was fully padded up a quick look in the mirror convinced me that I definitely looked the part, the only concern now was whether the brain had retained any of the old roller blading skills from my teenage days. One exploratory lap around the ice got the legs in to gear and almost convinced me that I’d still got “it” before coach Grzegorz skated backwards past me and said in a strong Polish accent “Hello, how are you?” Before I’d got the first letter of good out of my mouth I was spinning in circles and crashing spread eagle on to the ice. No talking coach, just skating. Apart from the odd fall though, this was seriously good fun especially when about 20 pucks were chucked on to the rink. It’s not as easy as it looks when you’ve got to wield a 1.5 meter long plastic stick around, but I guess I was doing pretty well as people started passing to me. I even managed to score what could be my only ever ice hockey point. Seeing an unguarded puck lying about 50 cm away from the goal line I pounced with the agility of a snow leopard and flicked it in with a quick flash of the wrists, to end the day with a very respectable career statistic of one match, one goal. Beat that, Gretzky. Admittedly, there was no goal tender but a goals a goal in my book. It was then time to give my mate his kit back and let the boys get down to some serious drills. Viewing the action from high from Torwar’s one stand the players were being put through their paces with various passing, shooting and possession exercises. There were some talented players out there but while the standard was good it was clear that if you’re a relative beginner to the sport you’d have no problems getting involved: just so long as you don’t mind the issue of training at 11.45 p.m. every Thursday. To get in touch with the Beavers contact Tim at warsawbeavers@gmail.com or look for the clubs page on Facebook.

Terminology CHERRY PICKING

When a player stays near their opponent’s defensive zone waiting for a pass in order to breakaway.

FACE OFF

score through. “He picked the five-hole.”

PUCK

The hard rubber disk that acts as the ball.

The method used to start play at the beginning of a period or after a stoppage of play.

SHAFT

FIVE-HOLE

The goalie’s blocker, a type of flat glove the goalie uses to stop the puck.

The gap between a goaltender’s legs that you can Red line or Center line

The long part of the stick.

WAFFLE

Players' bench Goal line

face-off spot

Center face-off circle Goal crease

Blue line

Penalty bench

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23


HEALTH WELL BEING

BEATING THE BLUES

Bradley Ernstzen Personal FItness Trainer

With Santa gone and the decorations down, Warsaw’s not the happiest place. The Insider talks to three experts who can help fix body, mind and soul.

BY DAVID INGHAM & ALEX WEBBER

(Nutritionist, www.coio.pl)

WI: Most people will be carrying a bit of extra timber after Christmas, what’s the best way to get shot of it? MJ: I definitely wouldn’t recommend using any so-called miracle diets because they can actually do more harm than good. It’s important to eat regularly, five times a day, and our daily menu should consist of lots of vegetables and legumes (beans, lentils, nuts etc.), which are low in calories and a good source of protein and dietary fiber. Our diet should also be varied with whole grains, fish and dairy products. And stay away from fast-foods, sweets, snacks, and fried dishes! WI: What food should we avoid to look tasty naked? MJ: You should avoid foods which are high in fat and sugar but also try to avoid sugary drinks like juices, carbonated soft drinks, and alcohol. These are high in calories and can lead to fat in places where you really don’t want it. WI: In the UK Santa always has a mince pie and a glass of sherry at every house – surely that’s not a good idea, no matter how much energy you need? MJ: Unfortunately, traditional foods are not always healthy – as we can see from Santa’s belly! Instead, I would suggest he tries a solid lunch consisting of soup and a main course with foods high in protein, such as fish, as well as nutritious sources of carbohydrates like porridge and salad with olive oil. For a snack or dessert he should eat fruit, which is also a good source of energy. Instead of a glass of sherry I suggest a lighter red wine, which contains valuable antioxidants. But drink in moderation! WI: January is depressing – what type of foods do people need to eat to banish the winter blues? It’s important to have a balanced diet that provides the entire body with all the essential nutrients. We shouldn’t forget about foods that support the functioning of our

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WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2013

brain such as grains and nuts, which are a source of good fats and minerals. Remember to eat sea fish, which are a source of omega-3 fatty acids, as they’re important for our nervous systems. Vegetables, fruits, and whole grain products also provide us with vitamins and minerals that affect the regulation of hormones which can affect our mental health. We should also avoid alcohol, which only temporarily improves our mood.

Mikołaj Czyż

(Psychotherapist, www.therapywarsaw.com) WI: What does a psychotherapist do, don’t you just look after mad people? MC: Psychotherapy involves helping people achieve a better sense of well-being, and providing sustainable solutions to their struggles and conflicts. It’s not limited to treating mental disorders, it’s applied to areas such as relational difficulties and work-related challenges as well. WI: What issues do people come to you with? MC: The issues vary widely… but beneath most of them there is a yearning for a fuller life, and for a better relationship with oneself. In particular, people deal with conflicts, self-criticism, addictive tendencies, sexual difficulties, anxieties, extreme experiences from the past or present, and depression. WI: January can be a difficult time of year. What’s your advice for people who are feeling down? MC: There are a great many reasons to feel down in January and sometimes you need more then you a mug of hot chocolate to cheer you up. My advice would be to experiment with what this “down” feeling actually is. What does this calendar cycle bring up? Even though a lot of people tend to agree that this time of year is less favorable, the exact experience of feeling “down” is often very personal and meaningful.

PHOTOGRAPH LEFT ALEKSANDRA HERBICH, REST COURTESY

Magdalena Jastrzębska


Mikołaj Czyż Psychotherapist

WI: Is it more common that people seek help at the start of a new year? MC: I haven’t really noticed this kind of regularity. The commitments emerging out of “new beginnings” alone don’t seem to be enough to make a lasting change. With important issues such as addiction it isn’t really possible to erase the past and just start fresh on January 1st. You need to acknowledge the importance of your past experiences in order to deal with the problem in a sustainable way. WI: You also work with couples who might be having relationship problems. How does it work? MC: Myself and Agnieszka Serafin work with couples. A lot of them have reached a limit in what they can do as individuals in their relationship. They either get stuck in a rut or run in circles, with similar recurring unsolved challenges or chronic conflicts, which can obviously be very frustrating and hurtful. Having more understanding of what is really going on, about the actual feelings and needs, is the start… For many couples psychotherapy is a novel approach which can transform their seemingly fixed situation or repetitive patterns, and improve their life.

Bradley Ernstzen

(Personal fitness trainer, bernstzen@gmail.com) WI: Personal training – explain the concept… BE: My specialty is home based training: I go round to my client’s home and train them there. On our first meeting I do a fitness assessment and PARQ questionnaire. This is the fitness industry standard to ascertain if there are any issues that the trainer has to be aware of, as well as determining your goals. Based on the responses I’m able to design your fitness program. I would then put you through a light workout to determine your fitness and flexibility level. Our first session is also where we work out if we’re compatible. It may sound harsh, but I only work with clients who are committed to achieving their goals.

Magdalena Jastrzębska Nutritionist

This ensures that our time is not wasted. WI: Isn’t a personal trainer something Lady Gaga has? BE: Many people still view personal training as something for the stars – it’s not. A good personal trainer will guide, motivate, encourage you and design a workout program to bring the best out of you in the shortest possible time. Going to the gym is ok but statistics show that after 3-6 months close to 60% of all members stop going! Having a trainer brings in a level of commitment that is not there if you go to the gym yourself. One drawback of gym membership is that you still have to go to the gym. With my clients time is extremely valuable so having Warsaw’s #1 rated in-home trainer arrive at their door adds value to their day. No travelling required, no gym membership required. And no excuses for not turning up, as I will be there on your doorstep! WI: What sort of exercises will you have me doing? BE: I’ll reintroduce you to the perfect gym you’ve had with you all your life: your own body! This is my training specialty – bodyweight exercises. On last count I probably had about 150+ bodyweight exercises plus variations. However, I won’t simply get you doing all these and there will always be a progression of the exercises throughout your workout program. You have the complete gym and it is my job to show you how to use it correctly, efficiently and, most importantly, safely! WI: It’s freezing cold and I really don’t feel like training BE: This is where we separate the good, the bad and the ugly trainers. A great one will not let this happen. He or she will continuously motivate, encourage and support you throughout your program. That is why I do what I do. I bring light to my clients on a cold, gloomy morning. I bring the smile and the motivation when they have had a hard day. I am there to cheer them up and show them that they are stronger, better and that there is light at the end of the tunnel. facebook.com/warsawinsider

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HEALTH SPAS set by a colored carpet (no room numbers here), with the luxury lodgings complimented by playful touches from Philip Starck and Patricia Urquiola. For all the contemporary styling, occasional blockish wood finishes juxtapose well against the futuristic ambience. Having claimed a stack of awards for their spa, guests are correct to expect nothing but the best: that includes a mosaic-bottomed pool, steam room, jacuzzi and a range of health and beauty treatments. Muffle up to enjoy the nature trails outside, or ask at the hotel about the horse riding and indoor tennis nearby. And if the slow pace is all too much, city center Poznań is 15 clicks away.

Dwór Oliwski

PLEASE, GET ME OUTTA’ HERE!

Had enough already of grey, gloomy Warsaw? Then pack your bags – you’re going on a break. BY ALEX WEBBER

W

arsaw is ill. It begins January with a hangover and ends it with flu. Even the optimist will readily admit that the capital at the start of the year is an ugly proposition. So kill two birds with one stone – take a break from the city while regenerating both body and soul. Sounds impossible? It’s not, and Poland isn’t short on top-notch spas that tick all those boxes. Hot_elarnia ul. Morenowa 33, Puszyczykowo, www.hotelarnia.pl As you approach Hot_elarnia, past ice dusted fields and cute farmyard dwellings, initial expectations lead one to believe a rustic affair awaits. That assumption is lent further weight on arrival, whereupon visitors are left to gaze up at a white outhouse crowned with a pristine thatched roof. It all serves to bring to mind backwater Poland, circa 1850. Therefore, it comes as a surprise to learn the only time travel you’ll be doing is forward, not back. The work of architect Bartosz Konieczny, the interiors were finished off courtesy of Fabio Novembre and Marcel Wanders, and entering Hot_elarnia is a space age experience. Having checked in, rooms are found following a trail

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WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2013

Dwór Oliwski ul. Bytowska 4, Gdańsk, www.dworoliwski.pl There’s much to admire about Dwór Oliwski, not least its ability to fill this tricky sounding role: that of a country retreat in the midst of a city. Set in a leafy suburb of Gdańsk, that one of Poland’s busiest metropolitan areas lies minutes away is hard to compute. Accessed via some curling woodland roads, what appears in view is stunning indeed – a restored 17th century manor house, flanked by cross-timbered buildings and a separate thatched structure. Lodgings look delicious, with ample rose hues and gentle white colors. Spend an evening luxuriating in the wine cellar, and in the morning, swipe back the curtains to reveal postcard views of the rolling gardens outside. Reality, it must be said, feels a long way away. Yet for the full pampering experience slip into their spa, where a

Hot_elarnia


range of packages have been expertly customized to suit the needs of women and men (and the whole family). And don’t forget some socks to pack out your Speedos – the pool here is one of the best in the region. In summer, you’d have found the German national football team dive bombing into it. Sheraton Sopot ul. Powstanców Warszawy 10, Sopot, www.sheraton.pl/sopot To use a quaint British term, Sopot is like Marmite – you love it or you loathe it. Visit in high season and you’ll see a contemporary take on Dante’s Inferno: by day, parades of lobster pink families with inflatable animals, and by night, garish neon slashes and a well-oiled crowd. But even the Insider, a cantankerous curmudgeon at the best of times, accepts Sopot’s glories. Out of tourist time, this seaside town is a different prospect, offering a soothing air amid a fin-de- siècle atmosphere – as well as prices that don’t leave plumes of smoke billowing from the wallet. Since its inception as a tourist destination, the talk of the town has been the Grand Hotel by the bottom of the pier. That still applies today, thanks to a multi-million investment by the people at Sofitel. Originally completed in 1927, this historic hotel has seen it all – Greta Garbo, Marlena Dietrich and Charles de Gaulle all stayed here, as did Hitler in the days when the Wehrmacht conquered all (don’t mention the H word to the staff). But it’s the next door Sheraton that gets our custom, thanks to a magnificent spa complex that includes a scented Turkish hamam, saline water steam room, Romanstyle tepidarium, Finnish sauna, ‘ice fountain’, rain caves and a hydrotherapy pool that makes use of the healing mineral waters of the nearby St. Wojciech spring. And don’t forget the Rasul, a Moroccan inspired steam room where guests are slathered with clay before a cleansing, tropical shower under a starlit dome. More mundane pleasures are found in the state-of-the-art gym, pool and beauty areas. Fully restored and replenished, soak up the warmth of the InAzia restaurant while the bleak Baltic Sea lashes the shore. Hotel Remes ul. Parkowa 48, Opalenica, www.hotelremes.pl Where did Cristiano Ronaldo learn to dive? Not here, though the swimming pool of the Remes gave him plenty of chance this summer to perfect his act. Host to the Portuguese side in 2012, the Remes offers a wealth of facilities, among them a hamam, cryogenic chamber, hydro jet massage and treatments that incorporate the blue ribbon products of Maria Galland, Kurland and Sofri. Professionals love it, thanks in part to eight full-size football pitches, volleyball courts and golf course – yay Gods, they’ve even got their own 1,000seater stadium. Amateurs, meanwhile, appreciate the billiards room, riding trails, gym and bowling alley. As for the hotel, that’s a calming designer experience embellished with chic finishes and exotic sculptures. Głęboczek Vine Resort & Spa Wielki Głęboczek, Brozie, www.gleboczek.pl Roll into Głęboczek for the only spa in Poland offering treatments based on wine therapy. This first aside, there’s more to recommend about Głęboczek. Flanked on three

sides by water, the crystal clear air and sense of isolation is well suited to detox breaks. More purifying treatments can be found in the bathhouse, among them a mud and peat bath, and there’s a variety of more right-on, alternative techniques to enjoy: watsu water immersion therapy, KMI massage and an artsy looking AlphaSphere relaxation chair. Watching sunset over the lakes, enjoying a glass from their comprehensive wine offer, is an ethereal experience. Lodgings look contemporary, with the modern styling offset by the generous use of cow pelts and pine. Waking up, with the winter sun slanting through the floor-to-ceiling windows, you know you’ve rested well.

Sheraton Sopot

Info box All corners of Poland are accessible with Avis – no matter how near or far. Take a break this winter and give us a call. • Quick pick up and drop off • A selection of new cars that will impress • For reservations call: +48 22 572 6565 • Friendly English speaking staff Locations: Warsaw Chopin Airport & Marriott Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79

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A graduate of the prestigous Westminster College London, Botswanan born Joseph Seeletso needs little introduction. A frequent fixture on Good Morning TVN, the celebrity chef opened Joseph’s last year, thereby achieving his ambition of having his own private space to create “heavenly combinations” of meals and wine. Set in a former warehouse, the cosmopolitan Joseph’s is the effortless epitome of ‘loft cool’, and has taken Warsaw by storm with a non-standard menu that reflects Chef Seeletso’s creativity. And it’s not just the level of Polish gastronomy that has been raised with the success of Joseph’s. Wine plays an equally key role, with sommelier Rafał Kiś on hand to aid with your wine choice. • SUNDAY THEMED FAMILY DINNERS – UNIQUE MENU FROM DIFFERENT CUISINES OF THE WORLD CREATED BY OUR CHEF JOSEPH SEELETSO. • COOKERY CLASSES WITH JOSEPH SEELETSO • 700 WINE LABELS • WINE TASTING CLASSES WITH A QUALIFIED SOMMELIER • ON-SITE SHOP • LOYALTY PROGRAM Duchnicka 3 Street 01-796, Warszawa mob. 48 501 491 396, tel. 48 22 320 2988 duchnicka@josephwinebar.pl www.joseph.seeletso.com www.josephwinebar.pl


Reviews: Silk and Spicy 29 / Luncheonettes 34 / Plus:

* 18 updates

RESTAURANTS

AFRICAN 29 / AMERICAN & TEX-MEX 29 / ASIAN 33 / BALKAN & RUSSIAN 35 / BRITISH 36 / BURGERS 44 / CHEAP EATS 36 / FOOD SHOPS 51 / FRENCH 36 / GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN 37 / HOME DELIVERY 33 / INDIAN 38 / INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 39 / ITALIAN 42 / JAPANESE & SUSHI 44 / JEWISH 46 / LATIN 46 / POLISH 47 / SCANDINAVIAN 50 /SEAFOOD 50 / WHOLE FOODS 52

KEY

Insider’s Pick

$ zł. 30 (per main)

BOW 2012 Winner........... Breakfast menu ............. Business meetings.......... $$$ over zł. 55 Child friendly................... Insider writers do Delivery............................. not accept any Free wifi.............................. form of payment in Map location pg. 78 ...... (A1) return for favorable Romantic.......................... reviews. Vegetarian friendly........... $$ zł. 30-55

AFRICAN Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057. Open 10:00-23:00. Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $

Silk and Spicy ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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ou want Asian. But you don’t care for the undiluted version decked with gaudy golden Buddha’s and cutesy maneki neko. You want it classy and clubby where the waitresses are sleek and service comes with a smile. You hanker for a good chow time after which you don’t smell like a Vietnamese greasy spoon. Silk and Spicy can do just that. A glance at the menu further confirms that you’re in the territory of New Age Asia. Back in the traditional east, no one would pair Thai and Japanese on the same table. In PL, though, it’s the dream team. Here, it’s perfectly natural that while your partner digs into a square bowl of miso soup (zł. 12), you sink your choppers into deep-fried spring rolls (zł. 18). The delicious soup had a high density of tofu and seaweed. The minced meat wrappers were crispy and we wolfed them down with satisfaction, including the origami floral garnish crafted from raw beetroot. We were off to a good start. But there are plenty of reminders that Silk and Spicy isn’t truly Asian, such as the complimentary serving of pickled cabbage. Still, I had expected the beef yakiudon (zł. 36) to arrive with chubby yellow strands. It didn’t, and it was mildly sweet and distinctly spicy. From the colour-coded selection of curries, my partner chose the green with aubergine and chicken (zł. 38). Again, it was sweet and spicy, the way Thai curries are translated by Poles. We refreshed our palates with a bottle of Asahi (zł. 18) and kowtowed to the Unagi Master Roll (zł. 42). Master Jiro would have keeled over, but we relished the grilled eel, salmon, mayo and mango. For dessert, we skipped the bananas with coconut milk since we didn’t care for another freestyle interpretation of Asia. Green tea ice cream (zł. 18) seemed like a safe bet for there’s no way one could fudge that. Wrong. It was pale yellow with skimpy specks of green powder which might be matcha. If you don’t benchmark Silk and Spicy against records from the orient (and you shouldn’t, since the concept clearly warns of a local take on foreign), you might enjoy it. But for authenticity, head elsewhere. (KC)

La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. The exteriors don’t go beyond some tribal paintings and exotic lamps, while parts of the menu will frighten the life out of you – baked cow back, for example, sounds like a cooked spinal cord. Our beef/tomato stew was excellent, but the goat meat saw plenty of tactical napkin use. And good luck with the gizzard. $$

AMERICAN & TEX-MEX Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 629 3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Sometimes, all you need is a good steak to make everything okay. This is not the place to find one. Usually disappointing, occasionally catastrophic, this Wild West eatery gets nil points for style, and even fewer for service. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups

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RESTAURANTS of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$ Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, www. dostacos.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:0024:00. Warsaw’s newest Tex Mex outing has been earning perfect 10s from the Insider’s who’ve visited. $ Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00. Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, this leviathan touts excellent burgers and a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls. Rock’n’roll swag numbers Joplin’s blouse, Prince's guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. Warsaw’s best breakfast aside, head to Jeff’s for megasize portions of American classics of the

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burger-ribs variety. Find their twin branch in Galeria Mokotów, along with an identical roadhouse design of blinking neon. $ Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, www.sioux.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef. Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. After a summer sabbatical, SPE are back, touting a new edgy look that makes use of concrete colors and exposed pipes. The spicy, sizzlin’ Tex-Mex is fab, and added incentive provided by the rousing rock bands. $$

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2013

Tex Mex ul. Zwycieczów 11. Open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Featuring a street level take out window and a glum looking basement area, Tex Mex is an underwhelming experience where everything from the tortillas to the salsa taste like something you’d pick up in a supermarket. And, of course, there’s the obligatory dollop of Polski-style salad loaded with gherkins. $ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29 (Atrium Plaza), tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, but the burgers are always on-point inside this classic piece of stars & stripes vulgarity. $$ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. The habanero salsa looks and tastes like molten lava, and is just right when paired with their hefty burritos. But it’s


more than Warsaw’s premier Tex Mex joint; a firm ex-pat bastion, the barometer goes off the scale at weekends when live bands entertain a mixed bag of jiggling foreigners and hot locals. $$

ASIAN Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120. Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bar Sajgon (D4) ul. Bracka 18. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. A cult budget eatery once found in the defunct Russian Market. Two years after the original went pop they’re back with a neat looking effort on Bracka. Decorated with palms and mint colors, this double decker restaurant gains particular approval for its pho dishes. $ Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. ul. Twarda 42 (off Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:0022:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$ Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00. A rouge looking Chinese eatery whose design even incorporates a foot bridge. The menu is exhaustive, and the whole Peking Duck is

money well spent if you’re in a group. Head downstairs to snoop around Tshingis Chan, an all-you-can-eat Mongolian grill. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, www.chinagarden.pl. Open daily 12:0022:00. Allegedly the first Jiangsu cuisine restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes at the China Garden are indeed unique. On show here is everything from bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts, goose jaws and stewed bull’s penis with radish – I dare you. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ Dziki Ryż (multiple locations) ul. Puławska 24b, tel. 22 848 0060, pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 839 2540, ul. Wspólna 35, Tel. 22 628 1825, www.dzikiryz.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Varied Asian cuisine with dishes from India, Thailand, China and Japan in a very charming setting. All locations of Dziki Ryż are popular and you’ll most likely need a reservation. $ Dżonka (D5) ul. Hoża 54, tel. 22 621 5015. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-17:00. You say Thai and he says Chinese. You say somewhere graceful and he says nowhere showy. You say not too pricey and he says not too shoestring. Then sail into Dżonka. $ Fusion Perfect (D5) ul. Wspólna 35, tel. 22 628 1825. Open 12:00-24:00. If rumor is to be believed, the owner is the guy who once created the Dziki Ryż empire. The choice covers all the bases, the tastes are convincing and the restaurant looks like a typical mid-market Asian: subdued lighting and dark woods. All it needs now is a few more customers to fill out the tables. $$ Little Thai Gallery (D3) Pl. Dąbrowskiego 2/4, tel. 22 827 4410, www.littlethaigallery.pl . Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. High gloss violet interiors and cute elephant candle holders lend this place no shortage of style. The food can be a hit and miss affair, though the curry dishes are usually every bit as good

Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option. Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0000, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland. Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24hr pizza delivery options also available. Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl. Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers. Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sense, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory. Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl. Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts). Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus. Restaurants covered by this mob inc. players such as India Curry, Na Zielnej, Osteria, Papaya and Sakana.

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RESTAURANTS

Food, libation, atmosphere and joviality. We all deserve and need to nourish the body as well as the soul – and The Luncheonettes are here to help you do just that.

All located in Stara Fabryka Koronek (Old Lace Factory), ul. Burakowska 5/7 Mielżynski tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open 9:00-24:00. Red Onion, tel. 22 817 1339, www.redonion.pl. Open Mon-Sat11:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-18:00. Bed&Breakfast Home tel. 22 838 5381, www.bbhome.net.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. La Fromagerie tel. 22 465 2324, www.la-fromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 11:30-18:00. Warsztat Woni tel. 22 828 4484, www.warsztatwoni.com

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uncheonettes power shop. We make our lists, check them twice and head for the place that has great lunch and gifts altogether: the Old Lace Factory (Stara Fabryka Koronek). An “oasis on a real ugly street,” according to Peter Stewart of Red Onion, it has five unique owner-operated shops, guaranteed to please everyone from grandma to the boss either before or after any holiday season. We start of course with lunch at Mielżynski’s. Smart and friendly, the restaurant within the wine shop is suitable for a friends’ gettogether or a light business meeting. Check the blackboard daily menu on your way in and ask to taste the splendid Il Borgo aged balsamic vinegar with your bread. Robert Mielżynski was born in Canada to Polish immigrants turned winemakers and merchants. His return to Poland 19 years ago was prompted by a desire to protect his family’s past history and build a future here. He directly imports virtually all of his products. His passion about wine is infectious; he strives to leave

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each customer satisfied with the experience of the wine purchase. More like buying a pair of shoes or a jacket than a bottle of milk. After lunch, we make our way to the Red Onion. First on the block 13 years ago, owners Peter (another Canadian) and Joanna Stewart recently expanded their concept store with a second shop on Szpitalna in the old Wedel Chocolate Factory. ‘Funky stuff for urban people,’ their motto, says it all. From music to leather chairs, kitchen accessories to children’s toys, theirs is that wonderful mash-up collection of ideas that will put a big dent in any shopping list. The Stewarts have a wicked eye for trends and fun. Head next door to Bed & Breakfast Home, which is not just a furniture store. Owner Agnieszka Pudlik, like her neighbors, is a dabbler and enjoys mixing it up. She is selling fragrances, style books along with her own furniture. A former ad art director, with a degree in art restoration, five years ago she successfully claimed her niche after struggling to furnish her own home. If you can’t find it, design it! As it is impolite to attend any party in Poland without a bouquet in hand, stop by Warsztat Woni, an edgy unique flower shop where you never know what will be the flower de jour and how ‘out of the box’ the presentation will be. Need a little pick-me-up? Stop for a coffee and a plate of assorted cheeses at La Fromagerie. Owner Anna Wachowicz studied agriculture at university, then tried banking. But from her habit of returning back from skiing in France with her suitcases filled with cheese, business and hobby were finally married with the opening of this exciting boutique cheese shop. Looking for Stilton or Stinking Bishop? Then here’s the place. Or try the nascent Polish aged cheeses – 12 month old Bursztyn and Szafir, both almost impossible to locate anywhere else.


as they sound. So too the green tea ice cream. $$ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, www.lovinghut.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. $ Natara (B3) Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 666 101 500. Open 10:00-22:00. With a few wilting orchids and some symbolic pics of Buddha this bi-level restaurant won’t be in the running for any style prizes. The food is spot-on though, and after a brief panic during which we considered ordering everything – it all sounds so good – the Insider settled for duck in wine and a classic green curry. The results were outstanding: rich, velvety flavors and complex tastes. $$ The Oriental (E5) The Sheraton Hotel, ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Fri 12:0015:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-16:00 (brunch). Dark and elegant the wild pricing does a lot to keep The Oriental quiet. It is, however, well worth the hefty fee with fantastic pan-Asian food that’s up there with the best – maybe even the best. Popular with Thai diplomats and hushed hotel guests, it’s an experience that’s worth the quite considerable splurge. $$$ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Papaya’s uncluttered, contemporary club-style space is classy with hints of luxury imparted by the strategically placed, top-notch cognac and sparkling wine. The Pan-Asian menu favors Thai and Japanese, but there’s also Chinese dim sum and Peking Duck. $$ Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, www.pekinduck.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude. The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$

Shabu Shabu Hot Pot ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750. Open 12:00-23:00. Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $ Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Small but perfectly formed interiors and a menu that’s widely hailed by Thai devotees. The green beef curry is outstanding. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II ul. Wałbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Tien-Tien (C2) ul. Długa 29, tel./fax 22 635 3888. Open daily 10:00-22:00. A stained and seedy haunt that will look immediately familiar to readers who’ve strayed before inside Warsaw’s Vietnamese joints. Some rate the food - we don’t. $ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307. Mon-Fri 9:30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Yummy (D5) ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. The Insider’s favorite budget Asian eatery, even if the empty tables suggest dark forces at work in the kitchen. Modern and minimal, the lemon chicken is delicious and the pad thai is a sure bet. $

BALKAN & RUSSIAN Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, www.banjaluka.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Numerous meaty dishes from Serbia and Croatia are served inside a Banja Luka, a Warsaw stalart who’ve moved with the time and... moved. The new, central location is as pleasing as the last, with lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. This is one of those places that you enter knowing straight away that you want more. Try the bacon-and-tomato-scented Solanka soup and the pielmieni “Moskiewskie.” The no-frills interiors buzz with vodka tinged high jinks. $ Czojhona (B5) ul. Twarda 56, tel. 22 401 1303, www.czojhona.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Specializing in Uzbek cuisine Czojhona offer an interesting menu that starts with meatball soup before leading to unfamiliar dishes such as lamb piled on top of rice, dried apricots, raisins and carrots. Verging on the bland side, one feels they may struggle in this graveyard location. $ Gemo ul. Minska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 22 468 1876, www.gemorestaurant.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. At last, a Georgian restaurant without gnarled furniture and peasant fabrics. Located inside Soho Factory, Gemo has severe, industrial style accented further by steel lights and exposed pipework. The menu is modestly priced, yet includes several dishes to return for: the szaszlyk, for one. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, www.umadziara.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, but there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen. The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing compared to his signature goulash. Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $ Varna (D6) ul. Lwowska 4, tel. 22 468 8792. Open 12:00-

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RESTAURANTS last guest.There’s a few Bulgarian joints in town, but none that look this good; decorated with rich, ruby colors and Balkan embroidery the interiors are primed for an all-singing Balk-fest. The menu is cheap and cheerful, with the full list of hearty, homey classics. The musaka is peerless. $

BRITISH

The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub. pl. Open 8:00-1:00. The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsummer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$

Cheap Eats Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Cheng Way (D4) ul. Chmielna 10, tel. 22 899 1626. Open 11:00-20:00. Imagine a Franco/Vietnamese translation of Subway and you have Cheng Way. Loaded with generous Asian fillings and sauces, the baguettes here are spot on. $ Fabryka Frytek ul. Złota 3, www.fabrykafrytek.pl. Open Mon-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:002:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato served come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $

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Meat Love ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, www. meatlove.pl. Open Mon-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. An eco-minded sandwich stop, this intimate basement has a smart wooden look and friendly staff notable for their daring body art. The home-baked baguettes are the star, and come with a range of organic ingredients complimented with thick cuts of top quality animal. Roast beef, pulled pork and porchetta are just a few of your options. $ Okienko ul. Polna 22, tel. 603 771 483.

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Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00. Food through a hatch with pride of place going to fantastic Belgianstyle fries served with a comprehensive choice of sauces (top marks to the jalapeno). Large portions are zł. 10, and do just the job on post-pub munchies. $ Soul Food Bus Corner of Mazowiecka & Świętokrzyska. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-4:00. You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/bus. Their m.o is simple enough. Eleven types of burgers, and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later. Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for their latest GPS. $ Mr Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 888 021 888. Lurking amid the side streets of Powiśle, the pancakes here are brilliant and come with a heap of toppings and funny faces traced into them with icing sugar. Who cares if the staff wander around like they’ve just smoked a bong – it’s great. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, www.chinskapierogarnia.pl. Open 10:00-21:00. Set in a ropey looking pavilion To Tu excels when it comes to dim sum. The kim chi soup is pretty special as well. $ Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134. Open 11:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-19:00. Authentic German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh bread. The currywurst is fabulous, and there’s also Belgian-style fries. $

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

FRENCH Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 0107, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00. Bistro de Paris has always won the highest accolades from reviewers ranging from the Insider to Michelin. Here the food is exquisite, dynamic and flawless; whilst the service itself shines through all on its own. Perfect for dinner with the boss or wining and dining clients. $$ Chez Belier ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 22 11. Open 12:00-24:00. Designed by Maciej Zień – Poland’s undisputed King of Fashion – Chez Belier looks five star with its immaculate blend of black and white colors, crystal lights and orchids. The menu is a compact affair, and is perfect in every respect: from presentation to taste. Modern and international, the offer numbers a fabulous tuna steak served on a bed of mango salsa. $$$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www.larc.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. An elegant white/black eatery with elaborate plate presentations and crustaceans lurking in the water tank – the house specialty is lobster, and they’ve got it to a tee. $$ Prowansja (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 621 4258, www. prowansja.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. No need to go to a French cottage, the calming atmosphere and great food is right here. The dishes are imaginative, and combine the best of Mediterranean and French cuisine to create beautiful combinations and tastes. The chefs have been known to get experimental in their cooking techniques, though the renovated interiors remain pleasingly traditional. $$ Saint Jacques (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. 22 620 2531, www.saintjacques.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.


Warsaw’s had a long liaison with France, yet the cuisine remains under-represented. This bistro plays the right notes with an intimate interior sprinkled with street signs and life-size black and whites of distant day Paris. $$

interiors modern, intimate and a pleasant departure from the Greek caricature. Plate smashing allowed and encouraged. $$

Le Cedre (F1) Willa Borówka Hotel & Restaurant (Milanówek)

ul. Królowej Jadwigi 5, tel. 22 425 3881, www.willaborowka.pl. Restaurant opens Mon 17:00-last guest; Tue-Sun 12:00- last guest. A wonderland outside of Warsaw. This beautifully-restored manor offers a wonderfully rich atmosphere and wonderful Belgian and French cuisine with delicious beers like the Blanche de Namur. $$

GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN El Greco (B3) ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. 22 654 0458. Open 11:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. The grapevine was right – there’s a new Greek in town and it’s the best of the bunch; the souvlaki are ace and the

Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl. Open daily 11:0023:00. With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, www.lecedre.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Legendary Le Cedre have a new venture, and this one looks even better than the original over the river. Deep plum colors work well inside, and we recommend

turning up with a group of friends and splitting the Baalbak (six cold starters) or Byblos (six hot starters) menu. Aside from a candid A-Z of this cuisine, it’s a great opportunity to cover the tables with fancy little plates before causing a right mess amongst you as you share and share alike. $$ Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067. Open 12:00-23:00. Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$ Samira (C7) Al. Niepodległości 213 (behind the National Library), tel. 22 825 0961, www.samira.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. If you make the effort to find it, you’ll spot ambassadors, celebrities and artists scarfing down their excellent Lebanese kofta. Here you will find chickpeas, tahini paste, bulgar wheat, grape leaves, rose and orange

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RESTAURANTS flower water. Fresh cheese (Lebanese and Bulgarian) can be bought by weight from the deli counter. $ Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Forgetting the rather dubious exterior, Santorini – decorated like a Greek fishermans tavern – remains one of the top restaurants of its ethnic class. The lamb chops are fab, but for a real plate licking experience order the milfei as dessert. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 628 0782. Open 8:00-last guest. The design looks great, even if it plagiarizes Charlotte a touch (white brickwork, blackboard, communal table), and it even has the same chattery buzz. So the surprise here is the food is Turkish, and not just any Turkish, but excellent Turkish! The lamb and beef in tomato sauce is already part of the Insider diet, and the moussaka not far behind. But forget the word diet when it comes to dessert – the cherry chocolate cake is outstanding, but a menace to the beltline. $

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Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. Just what you didn’t expect – a restaurant specializing in the food of Yemen. Featuring lots of spicy meat dishes, and a few Indian-style offerings as well, here’s a fantastic spot that arouses curiosity and taste buds alike. The interiors are snug and pleasant, and not short on surprises – e.g. a concrete telephone pole adorned with potted plants. $$ Tawerna Patris Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 22 357 11 11, www.tawernapatris.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.Looking dusty and disheveled from the outside, Tawerna surprises everyone who visits. Decorated with white plaster walls and pics of Greek harbor towns, the seafood starters are something else. It’s impossible to judge what’s better: the mussels in tarragon or the marinated octopus. With prices this moderate, we suggest you order both. $$

INDIAN Bombaj Masala (B3)

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Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777. Open 11:00-23:00. A definite applicant for Poland’s best looking Indian, and instantly superior to Warsaw’s more shabby curry houses. The tikka masala is love at first bite, though the spice lever on the Madras needs jacking up. $$ Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $

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Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774. It’s through happy little tears the Insider declares Curry House as the overall victor in the local curry wars. The eye-watering vindaloo stands apart as Warsaw’s most macho curry, and the others don’t disappoint either. With this quality on show, it’s easy to ignore the primary design, drawn out waiting times and lunar location. $

Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Wildly inconsistent in terms of food and service. At a recent convention of the New Warsaw Curry Club the jalfrezi went untouched and murgh hara masala didn’t fare better. Nonetheless, the madras was declared Warsaw’s best and the murgh makhanawala destroyed in minutes. Design-wise, the chic dark décor places it a cut above most of the competition. $$ Ganesh Express (A4) ul. Grzybowska 61, www.ganeshexpress.pl. Open 10:30-22:30. Dinky, readymade portions aimed for a lunch-on-the-run crowd. Yes, the meals are pre-cooked, but the standard has been raised, alcohol introduced and the prices moderated. $ Himalaya Momo (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 36. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 10:00-22:00. There’s only four tables here, so don’t linger. The size means several staples have been cut from the menu, among them naan bread – there’s no space for a tandoor over, you see. What kind of Indian restaurant forgets a tandoor oven? In this case, a very good one. What does appear on the Tibetan / Indian menu is usually delicious. $

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India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www.indiacurry.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. They’ve changed management once again, and that’s to the detriment of the restaurant. Once the corporate choice for when suits wanted it hot, the gradual decline has extended to the décor – looking dark and tired it’s a shadow (literally) of its former self. $$ Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily, unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is amongst the best in the city. $$ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:0021:00. Whether the Madras is Poland’s hottest curry is a moot point (we say not). What isn’t up for debate is its popularity. Keen portions ensure you’ll be leaving with a doggy bag, and while we’ve yet to have anything outstanding, neither have we experienced anything under par. Internet ordering and delivery through their India Express catering service. $ Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $ Parivar al. Waszyngtona 75, tel. 22 393 4104. Open 11:00-22:00. The squid sizzler has the taste and texture of chewing gum, and the vindaloo is cunningly disguised as a bowl of red water with some chicken floating in it. “I get better curry on the oil rigs,” opined the Insider’s balti expert. For all of that, the biggest disappointment is Parivar’s apparent success. $ Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Set on two floors Saffron has a menu more limited than most, though they have at least finally introduced alcohol. The


murgh makhani is fiercely inconsistent, and the chicken, in the words of one reader, ‘strange’. Nonetheless, we like it – when the chef does get it right, this place scores well. $$

INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 12 Stolików (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 519 151 504. Open 9:0023:00. Affecting a chichi style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles and autumn leaves. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that embraces the credos that cooking should be theater. The menu comes chalked up on a board, and while the alio olio was a little overcooked, the big guns were out for the steak – fabulous. Definitely one to watch. $$ Angelo (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 22 622 4454, www.bacio.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:00-last guest; Fri & Sat 11:00-last guest. With a charming folklore interior, the candlelight will lead you into a world of sweet romance. The delicate antipasti and Italian merlot will certainly ease you into good conversation. $$ Bagno Food & Wine ul. Bagno 2, www.bagno2.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00. With its huge windows and stark style you can’t help but think Bagno would work best in summer; all it takes is a grey Warsaw day to

cloak this place in gloom. Which is a shame, as the food (and wine) really work here. Our steak was nicely done, with a flavorful mushroom sauce and thick baked potatoes on the side. $$ Bistecca ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www.bistecca.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A warm and welcoming meat-themed restaurant, featuring one of the largest pieces of steak we’ve ever seen. But if you don’t fancy being chef for the night, stay away from the mixed grill – after a few moments of confusion we realized we were meant to finish the cooking process ourselves; a novel idea, but not what we had in mind when we went out for the evening. $$ Bistro Warszawa (B1) ul. Jezuicka 1, tel. 22 635 3769, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw crowds from across the city. $$ Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. For the supersize treatment head

to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of riverside parkland – perfect for lazy Sundays with family and friends. Freshly re-opened after a winter break, during which time Chef Luc has traveled the Mediterranean sourcing the best ingredients and snooping out new recipes. $$ Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel 523 749 160. Open 12:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-6:00; Sun 14:00-24:00. With white tiles, an artsy carpentered bar and draftsman desk lamps hanging from the walls, Bufet certainly gets points for design. The Hungarian fish soup is delicious, while the chocolate soufflé is airy, gooey and all things nice. But choice diminishes quickly – get there early to order the ribs. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www.butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. A year on and this is still the restaurant everyone is talking about. Having scooped the award for Gazeta Wyborcza’s restaurant of the year, reservations are essential. Served on wooden boards by staff in butcher’s aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach. $$

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Brasserie Warszawska ul. Górnośląska 24, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00.A posh looking bistro whose credentials are supported by crisp shirted staff, gleaming surfaces and zinc mirrors. The menu changes daily, and on the Insider’s visit included

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RESTAURANTS outstanding Fine de Claire oysters on a bed of fennel. The English influence of an owner who once managed The Grill at London’s Dorchester Hotel, shines through on Friday when dishes like fish & chips are served. $$$

Lauren. Winning rave reviews across the board, find a strong international offering and even a small playground in the park that it views. $$

C.K. Oberża (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 22 828 4585, www.ckoberza.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A wood-looking eatery where towering plates of food present considerable challenge to carnivore appetites – come hungry. All the basic culinary needs are covered, while the Cesarska Deska Mięs features practically every animal to ever come out the wrong end of an abattoir. $$

GR Bistro & Restaurant (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), tel. 22 828 4285, www.grbistro.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00. Tucked next to the Wedel chocolate palace, GR isn’t short on charm and intimacy. Step upstairs where the restaurant unfolds into an attractive area set out with leather chairs and vintage photography. With little more than four mains ever appearing on the card the menu can’t be accused of showboating; the dishes that do make it on though win universal praise – the chicken medallions come served with lime sauce and fresh figs, and the combination works excellently. $$

Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373. Open 12:0023:00. Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct, five course set lunch menus from zł. 50. Modern designer dining BEST WAWA 2012 rarely gets better. $$$ “Restaurant for a Business Meeting” Winner, “Restaurant Design” Winner Delikatesy Esencja (F7) ul. Marszałkowska 8, tel. 22 480 8018, www.delies.pl. Open 8:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 8:002:00; Sun 8:00-23:00. A long, narrow space that’s a mix of bar, restaurant and ‘culture’ cafe – only this looks better than most. No second hand collectibles here, just a cool look accented by concrete colors and overhead pipes. The menu is a creative, light bite affair with dishes like gyutataki served to a hip crowd who’ve outgrown nearby Plan B. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Appealing to the serious spender, the US Longhorn (a cool zł. 185) is utterly unforgettable. Try it with orange whiskey sauce. $$$ Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www.flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00. A superb eatery seemingly styled by Ralph

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Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com. Open 12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ Groole (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, www. groole.pl. Open 12:00-20:00. You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $ Kaprys (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2232, www.restauracjakaprys.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Like their service, Kaprys have had a slow start. We had a five minute wait for the menu, in spite of being the only customers. The design looks formal and unimaginative, and the menu includes a bit of everything – it’s hard to define the cuisine. Our beef carpaccio was tasty, but sea bass – served with head, eyes et al. – was off-putting, and the potato wedges almost certainly from a bag. $$ Kultura (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 22/23,

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tel. 784 044 051. Open 11:00-23:00. An initiative from the connecting artsy cinema. Looking slick and polished, creative effect is added by the use of colorful umbrella-style lights, while away from the frontline find the hard work done by the former chef at Dyspensa. And yes, it’s a dream team in the kitchen, with desserts and cakes fixed by those who made Café Misianka the legend it is. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. Incorporating ‘French techniques, Polish products and Italian influences,’ chef Pawel Oszczyk has created one of the top dining rooms in Warsaw, a comfortable space that’s both intimate and plush without ever appearing over-indulgent. The the tuna tartar is a magnificent starter, and the venison faultless. Enhancing the chef’s talents is Andrzej Strzelczyk, one of Poland’s top ranked somBEST WAWA 2012 “Hotel meliers. $$$ Restaurant” Winner

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Lemon (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 6, tel. 22 829 5544, www. cafelemon.pl. Open 24hrs. Nine years old and counting, Lemon’s greatest glory are their open hours – non-stop. For an early dawn after-party comedown, this citrus-colored cafe ticks the box, with some recommended breakfast options. Later on, the large, airy windows ensure maximum opportunity for people gazing, while a menu of international café-style fare does the job. Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This former bath house is adorned by columns and handpainted glazed ceramics. A fine menu of fusion fare with an ‘artsy flair’ is guaranteed, with creative desserts to follow with. Over 300 Italian wine labels (not to mention tipples from Spain, France and Austria), as well a selection of cigars make Concept a number one choice for that all important meal. $$$ Masz Gulasz ul. Piękna 15, tel. 22 370 2550. Open MonSat 11:00-22:00. Magda Gessler continues her campaign to takeover Warsaw with the opening of Masz Gulasz, a warm looking mid-


market eatery whose menu comprises chiefly of thick stews and goulash. Merliniego 5 (E10) Restaurant and Wine Bar, ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. $$

Moonsfera ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4, tel. 22 560 3733, www.moonsfera.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. You’ll find fancy-looking Moonsfera at the top of the Olympic Center, and the panoramic views figure high on the draw. The international menu is an explosion of creativity, with dishes including duck breast served with ginger and carrot puree, caramelized pear and fig and cherry/thyme sauce. $$ Nolita ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00. Fine dining takes another turn with Nolita, a place we’ve heard hopes to ultimately emulate Atelier by Amaro and follow the Michelin trail. With Chef Jacek Grochowina (formerly of The Ritz, London) at the helm, maybe that’s not so unlikely. Opened at press time, we’re giving it a star billing in next month’s issue. $$$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 794 16 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Mere steps from Wilanów’s 18th Century church, this former blacksmiths passes muster with excellent steak and a cocktail list invented by Richard Winkler – former mastermind of Paparazzi and Porto Praga. The fish too is fantastic and fresh, meaning even without their clincher – the summer garden – it’s very much a destination to follow. $$ Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 621 1881. Open 10:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Are you in a restaurant or inside a book shop? The mind plays tricks in Opasły, the latest venture from the Kregliccy family (Santorini, Chianti etc). Filled with hardback volumes and newspaper clippings, this trendy Foksal spot features a concise menu that includes chili shrimp. $$ Pan Ziemniak Al. Jana Pawła II 41A. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-

21:00. With a custom-made cast iron potato oven and a menu that changes daily it’s not hard to see the draw. There’s usually about 16 toppings chalked up on the board, and these range from norm (tuna mayo) to the unexpected (chicken curry). $ Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. Looking like a business class waiting lounge, it’s easy to overlook Passe Partout – more so now the beautiful back garden is closed off for winter. But you’d be a fool to do so. Unassuming it might be, but there’s something clearly very right with the kitchen. The diverse international menu has too many positives to count, though the Insider recommends the pork tenderloin: served with a blue cheese and balsamic sauce, it’s a plate licking meal. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, Frida Restaurant - but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Porto Praga (F1) ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Bathed in rich, ruby shades and Art Deco swirls, PP looks classy and elegant yet never too formal. Different species of Warsaw life happily co-exist here, enjoying a revamped menu courtesy of chef Marcin Wojtczak. The cocktails are amazing as well – Bloody Mary is our standard bar-ometer, and here it passes the test with flying colors. $$$

tantalizing selection of food with signature recipes from the head chef. Strongly recommended is the mouth-watering baked duck with orange and homemade ravioli. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The feeding trough of the business class. Back sporting a futuristic look, 99 have been pleasing diners since opening in the 90’s. The good news is they’re better than ever, with a modern international menu that includes one of the finest steaks in town, and the perfect margarita. $$ SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 600 806 084. Bistro, bakery, hangout. However you choose to label SAM, it’s the talk of the town. Noisy Charlotte won all the press last summer, this time round its SAM. The cooling concrete interiors buzz throughout the day, with touches like communal tables well suited to the ascetic style. Owned by the same lot in charge of 6/12, there’s a similar commitment to good, healthy eating employed here. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec.waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a Swiss-Polish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$

Soul Kitchen ul. Noakowsiego 16, tel. 519 020 888, www. soulkitchen.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Set over two dining rooms the design is elegantly uncluttered: raw brick and vanilla colors. The menu is concise, but involves lots of ingredients picked from the finest local producers - some of it custom-grown especially for them. This is contemporary Polish / international cuisine whose presentation is magnificent. A foodie draw. $$

R20 (F5-6) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295. Open 7:3022:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. This top-notch, casually elegant restaurant offers a concise,

Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. With a location looking at the Chopin Museum you may

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RESTAURANTS assume this place is all about boring food at tourist prices. Wrong. Chic and shiny, and with a cool glass frontage, chef Robert – a veteran of the El Bulli kitchen – does the rest with delicate dishes that could pass for art. $$ Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest. The pasta is filling, and probably deserves its reputation as some of the best in Warsaw. It comes as no surprise that they are often fully-booked. Check out one of the best summer gardens in the city. $$

ITALIAN Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 22 635 8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. It’s been years since we heard great words about Arse, and while the food remains fine there’s a distinct impression that their finest hour has long since passed. A great play area for kids, it’s still not a bad option if you’re heading from Old Town with accompanying bambinos. $$ Atmosfera ul. Czaki 2. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-22:00. It’s official: Żoliborz has woken from her culinary slumber. While the name lacks creativity overall impressions are positive: from the contemporary red-lit

interiors to the Italian influenced menu, everything combines for a recommended evening. The mussels are delicious. $$ Bacio ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, www. bacio.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Under new management the new look Bacio has been decluttered and simplified and now features a tripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top eats in town. $$

Bravo Roberto (F9) ul. Sułkowicka 2/4, tel. 22 841 4010, www.bravoroberto.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. The eye-catching (and eye-wateringly expensive) Belvedere apartment block is the base for Bravo Roberto, a beautiful restaurant whose interiors mix traditional with contemporary. The lamb tartar is the recommended starter, while for mains the seafood is notable. $$

Bacio Angelo (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 22 622 4454, www. bacio.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:00-last guest; Fri & Sat 11:00-last guest. With a charming folklore interior, the candlelight will lead you into a world of sweet romance. The delicate antipasti and Italian merlot will certainly ease you into good conversation. $$

Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www. delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. Scene of this Insider’s meal of the year, circa 2010. Unassuming at first sight, it takes seconds to notice that something is very, clearly wrong – the tables are full and the diners having fun. There’s two reasons for that, and they’re called Luca and Lorenzo. Luca is the showman and waiter supreme, while Lorenzo the culinary master behind this much talked-about venue. Fish is their forte, with deliveries from Italy arriving Tuesdays. $$$

Bellini (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. 22 831 0202, www.restauracjabellini.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Queen of cuisine Magda Gessler brings her magic to the realm of Italian cooking with this spacious, enigmatic cellar restaurant just a few doors down from U Fukiera. Brilliant pizzas, especially the signature white pizza, with fresh mozzarella, provolone, rucola, pear slices and pine nuts. $$

Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$

ul. Senatorska 27 tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl

ORIGINAL CHINESE CUISINE

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Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27. Open 13:00-last guest. You’d never guess from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining. Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show. The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$ La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86. Open 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. On the right day you’ll find the ex-pat proprietors of Warsaw’s more refined Italian eateries using this for their pizza fix. It might not look like much, but its reputation speaks for itself. $ La Tomatina (D4) ul. Krucza 47. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00. Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from splendid pizzas served in a modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. The spicy tiger prawn spaghetti is also great, even if the presentation looks like a student cooked it. $

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Mamma Marietta (C10) ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071. Open 12:00-22:00. Famed in ex-pat circles, head

chef Andrea (formerly of Da Aldo) has created a bright bijou eatery that’s openly regarded as one of the finest and most authentic Italian experiences in Poland. The seafood has a particularly stellar reputation, as does the smattering of Sicilian dishes. $$ Mezzo Italian Steakhouse ul. Sienkiewicza 5 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 756 3343. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00. Tucked at the tip of Konstancin’s park, Mezzo’s wood-burning brick pizza oven constructed in the garden gets all the thumbs up. Also novel to the community is a chance to enjoy top-notch beef – using filet from Poland and T-bones from Irish Hereford cattle, Mezzo’s newly designed kitchen uses a lava grill to ensure excellence each time. $$ Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Design doesn’t figure highly here, instead the onus is on food – the salads are good, but the pizzas even better; maybe even the best in the city. Who says so? Only about a zillion Italians who order from here. $ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00. The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners

can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Pomidoro (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702 8777. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An authentic Italian restaurant located in a renovated paper mill. Chef Ricardo whips up some of the best pizzas, pastas and steaks you’ll find in this city. Try the spaghetti alle vongole or the bistecca alla fiorentina for a real taste of Tuscany. $$ Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, www.puntaprima.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. A formal looking space with wood walls and important chests and cabinets. Start with a glass of prosecco before being blown over by mains like guinea fowl with truffle puree and caramelized beetroot – even better than it sounds. $$

Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3)

Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$

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RESTAURANTS Rossopomodoro (C4) Złote Tarasy, tel. 22 222 0550, www.rusticoni. pl. Italian specialities, right in the heart of Warsaw. Choose from a wide variety of pizzas and pastas, as well as an assortment of meat and fish dishes, and a range of desserts, including home-made tiramisu. $

Spokojna 15 ul. Spokojna 15, tel. 507 782 652, www.spokojna15.com. Open Sun-Thu 12:0022:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. A 19th century red brick building is the home of Spokojna, a hipster style hangout that serves two ends – that of a café and that of a restaurant. On the food front the menu includes an exhaustive selection of pizza, as well as other Mediterranean bites. $

Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side. The M.O is very much the same, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $

sirloin with chili says yes. $$

Venezia (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 622 1537, www.venezia.com.pl. Open noon-23:00. What happens when a restaurant hits the skids? They call Magda Gessler, or more specifically her Polski version of Kitchen Nightmares. Reinvented under her guiding hand, Venezia are back with an exciting menu and an informal design that includes Venetian murals and a stone lion. Can Venezia reclaim their reputation? The grilled

Vera Italia (Ochota) ul. Sąchocka 5, tel. 22 823 8380, www.veraitalia.pl. Open 11:30-23:00. Where Warsaw’s Italian and other expats craving the real thing gather for Italian food. Note that its popularity makes booking ahead a must. $$

Burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. Now settled in newer, bigger digs, what had finished summer as Warsaw’s favorite burger has taken the foot off the gas. The offer has been increased but, so it seems, at the cost of the quality. Nonetheless, try the Muppet – served on wooden trays, it’s a messy affair loaded with salsa, jalapenos and BBQ sauce. $

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Burgerator (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B, tel. 533 626 242. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-20:00. Penetrate the office/residential complex that’s sprung up around Żaryna to find Burgerator, a cheerful burger bar with a pop art touch and burgers that reflect the slavish perfectionism of the owner. A great place, and if we’re to believe the rumors, the first of many Burgerator’s that will appear around town – good news for all. $ Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 74/80 (enter from Olkuska). Open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00. Hands down the sort of burger Thurman and Travolta would chow in Pulp Fiction. Decorative elements don’t go beyond tables and chairs (of which there aren’t many), and waiting times can drive you nuts – as can

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the tramps who stagger past to the nearby bottle bank. The burgers though are a different class. $ Lokal Bistro ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64. Open 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-1:00. Dentist colors and voluminous ceilings lend an austere but pleasant look to this Polish-style burger bar. Sit outside at the woodchip tables (oww! watch for splinters…) to enjoy burgers that incorporate Polish Red Angus, Baltic cod and mountain cheese. Our tip: order a towering double burger with red onion marmalade and homemade ketchup. Delivered on a thick wooden board it’s completely delightful – if not a little messy. By the end of the meal the table will look like you’ve just given birth. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-19:00. Forget Year of the Dragon, 2012 was Year of the Burger – or more specifically, Year of the WarBurger. Edging the competition, this diminutive little cabin wins eulogies across the board for base-level prices, super friendly service and pimped up burgers that use gourmet ingredients. $

Venti Tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. With good seafood – such a rarity in Warsaw – Venti Tre serves up lovely meals that would appease the finicky appetite of any fish-lover. For cooking classes with the head chef contact the hotel. $$$

Włoska Robota (Ochota) ul. Drawska 22 (Ochota), tel. 783 870 463. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:0023:00. Squirreled away in Park Szczęśliwicki in Ochota, the forte of the establishment is the home-made pasta. The menu is otherwise a cookie-cutter range of pizza with the usual range of toppings. If you’re after baked dough the “panuozzo” sandwiches are real winners just be prepared to wait a while. $

JAPANESE & SUSHI Art Sushi (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 22 621 7720, www.artsushi.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The restaurant is charming, modern and peaceful. The menu is strictly Japanese/Korean, but is a good starting-point for sushi first-timers. $$ Akashia (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0333, www.akashia.pl. The glory years are over, especially if a visit to the Złote Tarasy outpost is anything to go by. We like our duck to be crispy, but this could have been blowtorched – we didn’t need chopsticks, we needed a chisel. The W.C could benefit from a lick of paint and all. $$ Besuto (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 828 0020, www.besuto.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. After years trading in one of the grubby pavilions behind Nowy Świat, Besuto have upped chopsticks and moved onto Nowy Świat itself. The sushi is as good as ever, only now so are the views. You’d have expected


the prices to climb north to reflect the change in address: they haven’t. $$ Hana Sushi (A1) al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), www.hanasushi. pl. Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955. Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00). Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. It's an old-timer, but it's still up there as a real contender. $$ Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu. Open 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the

eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$ Kaizen ul. Świetlicowa 7/9 (Konstancin), tel. 607 128 840. Open 12:00-22:00. Dark woods and orchids warm the characteristically minimal Japanese design. The traditional sushi is delicious; however they also step in uncommon directions as they cater to Western tastes, with additional sauces, innovative inclusions and elegant plate ensembles. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. If there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, it was Sakana. Many claim it’s the best in the city, a stand that’s hard to dispute. Practice nimble chopstick moves among other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$

Sushi 77 (B4) ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 22 890 1811, Al. KEN 49, ul. Polna 48, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, C.H. Skorosze, ul. Gen. F. Sławoja-Składkowskiego 4, www.sushi77.com. Open 12:00-23:00. Not the best in town, but definitely the best deal in town. Prices have been slashed 40%, meaning you’ll get a highly acceptable sushi fix for an economy class bill. $ Sushi Club ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 114 1414. Open 12:0023:00. A couple of dining rooms to choose from, including one found in a restorative salt cave. The lack of English on the menu may leave you bamboo-zled, but the overall quality is rewarding. We keep coming back for the salmon nigri and tuna hosomaki. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle. Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools

CANAPÉ CARNIVAL CONTINUES! “Słony” bistro invites everybody for delicious canapésaccompanied by a glass of wine or a small beer. And also for the best breakfast in Warsawserved from 9:00 am till noon on the weekdays and from 10:00 am till 4:00 pm on the weekends WE OFFER CANAPÉS ALSO TO TAKE AWAY AND FOR CATERING! 11 Piękna St, at the crossroad of Krucza, Piękna and Mokotowska streets phone. +48 22 629 03 64, mobile: +48 506 052 093, e-mail: slony@slony.pl I recommend it

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RESTAURANTS by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

JEWISH Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them frequently at war with the people they serve. $ Rambam ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 243 2693, www.rambamrestaurant.pl. Open Sun-Fri 11:30-23:00. Kosher-certified, though by no means the exclusive domain of the Israeli coachloads who tour the district. A chic look with Middle Eastern accents is paired off with exotic dishes that include a lamb burger with red onion chutney and mint sauce. $$

LATIN

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Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 1020, www. aioli-cantine.com. Open 9:00-last guest. A jaunty Mediterranean space with hanging meats and long communal tables, Aioli has a decent offer of sandwiches, breakfasts, pastas and burgers. The mango-turkey burger is worth your consideration. $$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. A lasting legend and something of a favorite for after-work informal drinks, though recent reconnaissance has revealed plenty of deficiencies – our burrito was tiny, and not so much over-cooked as blowtorched: if it’d been human, you’d have needed dental records to identify it. Service can be calamitous, making the 10% added to the bill the subject of hot debate. $$

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Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5782. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-18:00. Set to the flank of a glinting office building, Casa Pablo touts an interesting design composed of tartan colors, upturned wine crates and a mirror that we’re told is over a century old. But if you think that’s interesting, then take a look at the menu. Modeled round the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, dishes include scallop carpaccio with foie gras, and

a duck breast burger with Mahon cheese, raspberry ketchup and truffle sauce. Servings are small and precise, but even so, we like what we see. $$ DaliMi ul. Zwycięzców 57, tel. 22 616 1838. Open 10:00-21:00. A new tapas bar from Dariusz Opasek, the former chef at Mirador. The range of tapas can’t be faulted, and neither can the overall taste. Even those with an aversion to Spain are catered for, with a range of bottled beers from Poland’s lesser known breweries. $$ El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistently inconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$ El Toro Steakhouse ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www.eltororestaurant.com.pl. Open 12:0023:00. Decked with stone cladding, wooden supports and a mural of a Mexican desert scene, El Toro is a valuable discovery for meat loves out there. There’s seven steaks to saw through, and they reach a hefty zł. 157 for the Porterhouse. A whole lot cheaper are the delicious Louisiana Hot Wings, though for fans of the Mex part of Tex-Mex the authenticity is open to discussion. $$ Frida Nowy Świat (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. 691 343 434. Open SunThur 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00. They’ve sussed the design and the location, but the food is more Pol-Mex than Tex-Mex. Bland flavors and tame salsas don’t encourage return visits. $$ Ole Tapas ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, www.ole-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$ Pico Cuadro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 81, tel. 22 826 1524, www.picocuadro.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. When it comes to their excellent beef manager Francisco Lopez gives credit to both the Argentinean origin of his selections and the knowledgeable hand of his chef who spent twelve years cooking in Spain. But best is

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dessert – a divine chocolate mousse torte on a delicate cookie crust made in house. Not too sweet, not too thick, just right! Although not as free with foreign flavors or combinations as it could be, it remains one to watch. $$ The Mexican (E4) ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 22 826 9021, www.mexican.pl. Open Sun-Thur 11:0024:00; Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00. Style-wise this place is fab, complete with an adobe courtyard and Corona chandeliers. But the authenticity crashes into calamity with the food, which frequently appears as a mysterious gloop served with mashed cabbage. The locals love it. $$ Sol y Sambra ul. Grzybowska 2, tel. 22 404 7011. Open 12:00-laste guest. The third tapas bar to try its luck at this very address – what’s that about? Winning blanket approval across the board, Sol y Sambra will be hoping for better fortune than previous tenants. The food is fresh, simple and unfailingly successful. $$

POLISH Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E5)

Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.kprb.pl/amber. Open for lunch MonFri 12:00-15:00, dinner Mon-Fri 18:00-22:00, Sat 19:00-22:30. The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747,

www.aterlieramaro.pl. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30. Nigel Slater recently called Atelier, “the most extraordinary meal of the trip,” and The Guardian’s gastro guru has hit the nail on the head. Find a menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques (e.g. blasts of nitrogen), with each course interspersed with occasionally bizarre molecular interludes – you bet we didn’t expect to be served a fizzy aloe leaf. This is Poland’s finest restaurant, and a real contender for the nation’s first Michelin star. Bookings essential. $$$ BEST WAWA 2012 “Contemporary Polish” Winner, New Restaurant” Winner, “Best Chef” Winner Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, www.bazyliszek.waw.pl. Open 11:00-24:00. Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $

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RESTAURANTS Belvedere Restaurant (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold and black interiors. $$$ Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www.bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 460 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$ Bistro Przekąski Zakąski (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open daily 24hr. An eat-while-you-stand venue serving up eight złoty bites specifically designed to act as emergency stomach lining for a pre/postparty crowd of vodka sinking glamour cats. $ Bistro Warszawa (B1) ul. Jezuicka 1, tel. 22 635 3769, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini.

The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw crowds from across the city. $$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics. $ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Dyspensa (E5-6) ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 22 629 9989, www.dyspensa.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Back after a refit, Dyspensa now looks

altogether sharper, cosmopolitan even. There’s great people watching to be had from the raised window seating, and a menu of fine Polish fare with international accents. $$

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Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight. IThe seminal Polish village experience is recreated in Folk Gospoda, a simple, rustic restaurant who put a stress on using locally sourced produce, and homemade bread and condiments. Clad in wood and farmyard debris, the menu is a hefty collection of pierogi, game and macho meaty fare. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. A relic of late 90s Warsaw, consider Kredens a fallen giant. Everything here is stuck in the past – once edgy, the awkward interiors now resemble a tacky mistake. The menu is a dud as well: a jack of all trades, but master of none. Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares would have a field day. $$ Honoratka (C2) ul. Miodowa 14, tel. 22 635 0397, www.honoratka.com.pl. Open daily 12:00last guest. This place has been around since 1826 and has played host to many famous guests, including Chopin. Honoratka serves delicious traditional Polish dishes and international courses. Live music every day from 18:00. $$

A CULINARY SUMMIT

A carnival event with an ‘in the kitchen atmosphere’ ‘Eat & Cook’ is the motto of the evening, with aproned guests flitting between cooking stations, the floor and of course the bar. In short, catch cooking fever at our cookery party!

more details on the website: www.moonsfera.pl" ul. Wybrzeże 4, open 12.00-23.00 email: ask@moonsfera.pl tel: (22) 560 37 33 www.moonsfera.pl

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Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Recently voted as one of the 25 most interesting restaurants in the world! And we’re not surprised – bathed in red banners and propaganda paintings, the Red Hog is your one stop shop for some socialist socializing: while Marx and Co. never actually ate here (as their menu claims), lads like Bruce Willis and Lennox Lewis have. The menu is comically split between dishes for the proletariat and for dignitaries, and is an experience in itself. $$ MG Eat Gessler (D4) ul. Chmielna 32. Open 10:00-23:00. Now MG is not your signature Gessler venture; lacking the OTT interiors and flamboyant prices this is a clear departure from what we’re used to. In fact, you couldn’t even call it a restaurant, more a bio café/ deli. The ciabbattas are great, and the FroYo outstanding. $ Na Zielnej (C4) ul. Zielna 37, tel. 22 338 6333, www.nazielnej.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; 12:00-22:00. Earning plaudits from all corners of the press is Na Zielnej, a dining diva which sources only the finest Polish produce. Split into a restaurant and (marginally cheaper) bistro, the menu has had foodies raving, and includes divine dishes such as pheasant’s breast. And the interiors hit the mark as well – making use of the space vacated by KOM, Na Zielnej touts an edgy, engaging design of bare bricks and violet

Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$

flourishes. $$$ Nowa La Boheme (D2) pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 692 0681, www.laboheme.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. The ingredients here may be Polish, but the exquisite presentation and chic interiors are still decidedly continental. Well-suited for business lunches. $$

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Pierogarnia (D2) ul. Bednarska 28/30, tel. 22 828 0392, www.pierogarnianabednarskiej.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. A perfect place to bring a foreigner hungry for a taste of Poland. Pierogarnia serves a whole range of sweet and savory dumplings, with plenty of vegetarian options. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin,

Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8)

ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Touting a refined, baronial setting, Rożana has starchy white linen, floral pieces and flickering candles, giving off plenty of classic charm in the best possible taste. With indulgent mains such as farmhouse duck with apple and cranberry, or saddle of venison with homemade pickle, this is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the BEST WAWA 2012 “Polish top table. $$ with Style” Winner Rialto’s Restaurant (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto Boutique Hotel), tel. 22 584 8771. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-22:30; Sat-Sun 7:00-22:30. Bathed in toffee and vanilla hues, the restaurant in this Art Deco hotel has a solid claim as one of the top meals around. The pan-seared duck breast with honey pumpkin and figs is every bit as inspired as it sounds. $$$ Słony (D5) ul. Piękna 11, tel. 22 629 0364. Open Mon-Wed 8:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 8:00-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-23:00. The design is kitsch but classy, with mirrored touches and striped wallpaper set against upside down

Le Cedre 61

Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Vis a vis Bears Tel 22 670 11 66

Le Cedre 84 NEW

Al. Solidarności 84, Centrum Vis a vis Court Tel 22 618 89 99

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RESTAURANTS lamps and nudes of Josephine Baker. Polish canapés costing zł. 8 are stored behind glass counters here, and make for great bargain snacking – the eggplant is delicious. $ Smaki Warszawy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 22 621 8268, www.smakiwarszawy.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Well-known on the Warsaw scene as a delightful Polish restaurant (try the lamb, for sure), Smaki Warszawy is also renowned for its cakes. Smiling and welcoming staff pour amazing lattes and serve up slices of fantastic pistachio cream cake. $$

REDISCOVER PIĘKNA BISTRO ON PIĘKNA 20! Pristine interiors juxtapose steel and concrete against dark, warm woods and a burning fireplace lending our venue an amazing character. Blending modernity and style, the interiors are reflected by an international menu, a carefully selected wine list and beautiful music. Come by in the morning for hot baguettes and fresh coffee, a laid back lunch, or in the evening, when lights dim and the mood slows down. For years Piękna Bistro has been a popular jazz spot, and at our concerts you’ll find young talents and celebrities, guaranteeing unforgettable memories. Bistro Piękna ul. Piękna 20 Tel. 22 627 4151 piekna@jazzone.pl, www.jazzone.pl

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U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians. Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$

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U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. You find yourself in the thick of the action here, with diners planted in the kitchen area of the former Hotel Europejski. There’s a great atmosphere of orchestrated chaos here, and the chefs love a bit of showmanship – expect Ramsay-style fireworks and tantrums when the orders start coming thick and fast. The food is textbook Polish, with steak tartare BEST WAWA hailed around Warsaw. $$ 2012 “Welcome to Poland” Winner U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www. uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. The place is named after a tubby fictional Czech soldier, but the grub is hearty Polish, XXXL portions at bargain prices. At zł. 15 per litre of beer, the mugs are constantly refilled to wash down the feast of sausages, ribs and pork knuckles. $$

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Warszawa Wschodnia ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 695 532 915, gessler.sohofactory.pl. Open 24hrs. A project of Mateusz Gessler, here’s one of the most peculiar and creative openings for a while. Featuring a centerpiece kitchen, this cavernous industrial space offers top-notch ‘Polish cuisine with a French twist’, as well as the chance to get your hands dirty alongside the chefs – book in

advance for the chance to cook with Chef Gessler and his right hand man, Robert Kondziela. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, ul. Podwale 1, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, ul. Wańkowicza 1, www.zapiecek.eu. Open 11:00-22:00. Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $ Zwyczjana ul. Wspólna 54, tel. 507 652 596, www.zwyczjana.pl. Open 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. A modern Polish eatery with a blond wood aesthetic accented with dabs of art and bowls of fruit. The food is cheap, cheerful Polish fare, with daily specials posted on their website. It fills the gap if nothing else. $

SCANDINAVIAN Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256. Open Mon-Fri: 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30. The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted BEST WAWA ingredients. Fantastic. $$ 2012 “Most Kid Friendly Restaurant” Winner

SEAFOOD Osteria (D5) ul. Koszykowa 54 (at ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 1646, www.osteria.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. An intimate restaurant with marine-inspired décor and the best seafood in Warsaw, t’s ideal for an energetic business lunch or romantic late-night supper. You can also pick up your seafood to go from their neighboring shop. $$


SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www.biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00. Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804. British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items inc. Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc.

supermarket. La Petite France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, www.lapetitefrance.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:3018:00. Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France.  Le Diplomat ul. Meksykańska 6, tel. 22 616 0539. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00.  Long regarded as the best butcher in town, as well as the number one source for lamb.  Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available. 

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Food & Joy ul. Nowy Świat 7, www.foodandjoy.eu. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-17:00. A new, upmarket deli chain from the same team behind Krakowski Kredens and Alma

La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www.lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Thur 9:00-

20:00; Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 11:30-16:00. Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, grourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more. Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, www.littleindia.pl. The definitive Indian store which doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available. Maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www. maho.com.pl. An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry. Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa,

ul. grzybowska 5a tel. + 48 22 232 324 5781 www.casapablo.pl secured parking: mon to fri - from 6pm sat and sun: all day

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RESTAURANTS ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves.

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Na Słodko Baba Wróżyła (D5) ul. Mysia 3. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. Warsaw’s taste for the good things in life takes a new turn with the opening of this easily pronounced locale. Specializing in top-end biscuits and cookies, it’s a luxury splurge for those with a sweet tooth. Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries. 

selling wine, meats, preserves and spices.  Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo  Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, coffee from Florence and Olives from Puglia. And not just Italian: find a range of foods from both Spain and France. BEST WAWA 2012 “Gourmet Grocery” Winner Polna Market ul. Polna 13, Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West. Find a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butcher, and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables, but at a cost.

WHOLE FOODS

Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service.

Bio 33 ul. Grzybowska 61, tel. 22 409 9605, www.bio33.pl. A space age looking restaurant in the Platinum Towers complex next to the Hilton. Making use of organic products, the premise is simple: three salads, three soups, three fish dishes, three meat etc. The results are marvelous, but the prices are daft. Zł. 26 for tomato soup!? $$

Papryka-Hungarian Store ul. Zwycięzców 22, tel. 22 616 0257, www.papryka-salami.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A Hungarian deli

Green Peas (D4) ul. Szpitalna 5, tel. 22 826 1985, www.greenpeas.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00. Offering

vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free meals, it’s a well-rounded, health conscious offer here. Low cal and low cost inside a greenish, cafeteria style space. $ Surya (C1) ul. Wałowa 3, tel. 22 635 81 39, www.restauracja-surya.pl. Open Tue-Sat 12:00-22:00. Found down in a former nuclear shelter this basement restaurant looks like a hobbit’s hideout, with lots of clunky timber doors leading down mysterious passages. Everything served is raw, and on the occasions they do use an oven it’s maintained under 42°C to keep all nutrients and enzymes alive. The raw pizza is better than anything you get at Domino’s, and the zucchini lasagna a brilliant surprise. Great list of smoothies, as well. $ VegeMiasto ul. Chmielna 9A, tel . 607 031 114. Open 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. A giant red mural flags VegeMiasto, making it impossible to miss. Acting as flypaper for student types, the menu is a vegan, largely gluten-free affair. Even staunch meat eaters should visit for the smoothies and shakes. $ Ye Goode Foode ul. Zamiany 12, tel. 22 254 4025. Open 11:00-last guest. Making use of unrefined oils and organic produce these guys take their cooking seriously – even the soups are made from spring water. The menu might not be as extensive as before, but it’s not a bad shout if you’re in the hood. $$

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Reviews: Chłodna 25 53 / Plus:

* 5 updates

CAFÉS & WINE BARS CAFES 53 / WINE BARS 56

KEY

Insider’s Pick

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

BOW 2012 Winner........... Breakfast menu ............. Business meetings.......... Child friendly................... Delivery............................. Free wifi.............................. Map location pg. 78 ...... (A1) Romantic.......................... Vegetarian friendly...........

CAFÉS Antrakt (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 827 6411. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Intellectuals and playwrights gather in Antrakt, a quirky cafe that groans with antiques and artwork. The presence of the theater next door keeps the IQ level high.

Chłodna 25 ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620 2413. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00.

I’

ve had a lengthy association with Chłodna 25, one that dates back to distant days spent living next door. Back then I was a fixture here, arriving at dawn to crank out last minute texts. It was a ritual I was not alone in: from the moment they opened you’d find a cast of locals – usually looking like they’d come from a DJ convention – tapping diligently into macs while smoke swirled around. There have been considerable changes since, and the disappearance of the smoke is the least of them all. The last few months have been, at best, turbulent. Having lost their license in March after the neighbors upstairs protested about noise, it looked like the writing was on the wall – at one stage, the owner even contemplated turning the whole thing into a kebab joint to get back at the snitches above. Fortunately, he didn’t. Instead he set about reinventing Chłodna. Out went the dusty, rickety furniture, and in came a cleaner new look: battleship colors and less useless junk. But the biggest changes were reserved for downstairs, namely the conversion of the event room into a comedy club. True, most of the gags will be lost on ex-pats (the onus is on Polish acts, rather than unemployed English teachers cracking plagiarized jokes), but it’s proved enough to keep the place afloat. Even so, Chłodna’s return from the abyss has only been recently confirmed – specifically, with the renewal of their license. Now, with the Ciechan on draught, and several beers by the bottle, the crowds of old have boomeranged back. But while this news has guaranteed their survival, it’s wrong to cast Chłodna as a nightspot alone. This was Warsaw’s original ‘art café’. Before C25 arrived, Warsaw’s café scene was a tepid affair: a choice of chrome clad chains or fussy little tea shops. Chłodna changed it all, injecting the scene with vibrancy and youth. Today, that leftfield liberalism is back on view. During daylight – what little there is – Chłodna resounds to that welcome hustle all the best cafes have: creaking floorboards and whistling kettles, clattery board games and the occasional dog. A diamond in the rough, that it’s back to its best is good news indeed. (AW)

Aroma ul. Krucza 6, tel. 22 376 5475, www.aromaespressobar.pl. Open 7:0022:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-20:00. An attractive Israeli owned spot with white painted walls and a busy café atmosphere – hissing coffee contraptions and lively sounds. The sandwiches are nice enough, but we like this place for their other offerings: cinnamon twisters, Belgian waffles and chocolate croissants. Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest. There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100 year history. Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who had a fondness for their donuts. Bubbleology ul. Chmielna 26, www.bubbleology.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café. But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. ‘Bubble Tea’ is the beverage here, with an arsenal of fruit flavors made by zany lab coated staff.  

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; still very much the choice haunt for the in-team. Café Lorentz Al. Jerozolimskie 3. Open Mon 10:00-20:00; Tue-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Set at the front of the National Museum this place has a nice indoor area with high ceilings and minimalist decorations and a green outdoor area populated by wickers chairs and hammocks. As is the rage in Warsaw, the menu is light, natural and healthy. Café Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620 3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:0023:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. Ignoring the fact that most of this street looks ready to fall down, the artsy-looking Próżna comes with a chic, ice white look, and a stack of hard-back tomes to compliment the homemade desserts. Even better at night, when soaked in the glow of dozens of candles. Café Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115. Open daily 6:30-24:00. A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from almond croissants to delicate brioches. Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest. Once known for its battered look and antiestablishment attitude, C25 has undergone gentrification. Now, all the dreadlocks and second hand furniture are a distant memory, replaced instead by a middle class crowd and a cleaned up look. But it’s not all bad news – having lost their license at the start of the year, the beer has returned! The next question is, will the customers? With initiatives like international comedy nights and strange, cult concerts our money says yes.

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Christian’s Baker House (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345. Open 8:00-

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20:00. A deceptively large space, this celeb owned haunt is set to compete with SAM and Charlotte in the boutique bakery category. We’re promised over 40 types of bread once they’ve settled into their rhythm, with the goodies complimented by a snacky menu scratched up on the blackboard. Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 7:3022:00; Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. But to see Coffee Karma at her best, wait for the spring terrace. Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31, tel. 22 826 3294, www.czulybarbarzynca.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. A very charming bookstore and café in one. Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 22 881 8677. Open Mon-Sun 12:0021:00. Dziurka serves an ambiguous role as a bar, restaurant and cafe. Curious doors sit embedded on the wall, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Flowers, plant pots and violet splashes give it a cheerful spin, while the Italian inspired menu isn’t short on creative flair. Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21. Open 10:00-22:00. An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Betters”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are even better though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural. Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30. Open daily 8:00-22:00. An attractive modern café in the heart of Saska Kępa with an artsy feel. A large selection of coffee drinks as well as teas, complemented by a choice of pastries, muffins and simple Italian dishes at affordable prices. Haagen Dazs (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 826 3052. Open 10:00-20:00. The mango sorbet is out of this world, albeit served inside generic, showroom interiors. Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822,

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www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses. Kalinowe Serce ul. Krasińskiego 25. Owned by actors Maciej Zakościelny and Zbigniew Dzięgiel this cafe pays homage to PRL songstress Kalina Jędrusik. But don’t think of KS as some dusty museum stuck in the past. This smart café is adorned with stunning black and white photography, and hosts regular concerts and arty events.   KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, www.klubokawiarnia.net. Open 9:00-last guest. Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors. Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, screenings and art happenings have launched it into local conscience. La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, www.lavanille.pl. Open 8:00-20:00. In much the same way Charlotte is so much more than a bakery, La Vanille is definitely more than your standard confectioners. Thick with the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that acts as a magnetic force, and it’s here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation. Lody na Patyku (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 10:00-23:00. One of our favorite openings of the summer; selling ice lollies of every shape, size, flavor and color, this unexpected project is an initiative of the guys who run Warszawa Powiśle and Syreni Śpiew. Looking clinical and white, it’s a star of the summer. Loft Café (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 608 608 488, www.cafeloft. pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:0022:00. Brickwork and aquariums dominate Loft, while lighting is courtesy of strings of bubbles that dangle from the ceiling. The loud and lairy design befits the neon-lit exteriors. Clearly, plenty of people like it,


we’re more ambivalent. Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders. Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards.

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Mały Wojtek (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 791 520 503. Open Mon-Fri 11:30-4:00; Sat-Sun 14:00-4:00. A charming courtyard number with hand painted floor tiles, white brickwork and imaginative black and white lights that dangle overhead. In the afternoon it effects the busy air of a European café; at night, more of a raucous local shot bar. Mam Ochotę ul. Grójecka 75, tel. 22 667 8280, mamochote.blogspot.com. Open 9:00-24:00. A hip haven in an upcoming area this café gets cool concerts and other such events. And unlike most cafés in its genre, you don’t get the impression you’ll catch fleas from the seats. Attractive light woods and guest artwork keep this place looking fresh and fun. Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, tel. 22 828 5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. One of Warsaw’s enduring legends, and as popular at night as it is during the day; media types love it, and you’ll find them pecking on quesadilla type snacks inside a hip, white interior. Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 512 091 840, www.ministerstwokawy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Were it not for the fact MK opened after voting had closed, you’d have bet your bottom zlot this would have romped home with our ‘best café’ award. Decorated sparingly with white wall tiles and wooden floors, this newbie numbers some ace fruit drinks amongst its greater glories. MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www.mito.art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:00-23:00. Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are

offset by modern art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel. Moments ul. Nowy Swiat 6/12, www.tastylife.pl. Open Mon-Thu 7:30-22:00; Fri 7:30-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. A prime location in the ingenious construction of a two-storey glass prism under the Financial Center’s arcades. So forget the gloomy, dusty corners of Warsaw’s cafes and immerse yourself inside a sleek space bathed in light that comes streaming through all four walls. Moments knows many incarnations and slides with ease between cosmopolitan cafe, modern eatery and communal wine bar. my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego),  www.myomy.pl. Open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Slightly rustic in design, with flower-patterned pillows, wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor. The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic. O Obrotach Ciał Niebieskich ul. Leszczyńska 4 lok. 129, tel. 22 212 87 27, http://o-obrotach.pl. Open Mon 11:00-21:00; Tue-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. A bright, airy place that does a good job of capturing the eccentricities of Powiśle – just check out the beady light. Coppion coffee is on hand to rouse early birds, as well as a selection of homemade muffins, waffles and other baked goodies. Petit Appetit (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, www.petitappetit.pl. Open 6:30-23:30. Cartoon murals, brickwork and that must for the season – a communal table – all contribute to marking Petit Appetit as something of a winner. Their real success though is as a bakery: loaves, baguettes, pastries are produced to expert standard. Piaskownica (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 9:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest. During daylight it’s a coffee bar; come nightfall beer becomes the choice of the people. Popular with college kids, find announcements like ‘Tofu Attack’ chalked on the blackboards.

Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30. An attractive Saska café decked with pale white colors, and steel lights overhead. Service can be frustrating, and some call the food overpriced, factors which are offset by a high street location: perfect for a spot of people watching. Relaks ul. Puławska 48. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. Delete Starbucks from memory: if you take your coffee seriously, then no-one does it better than this lot. Using a number of brewing methods, the baristas here are top of their trade, doing their stuff in a cool interior with a heavy retro accent. Saint Honore (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 20/22, tel. 508 143 987, ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), www.saint-honore. pl.Open 8:00-21:00. Accept no imitation, here’s the best bakery around. And aside from fresh baguette sandwiches, find authentically French cakes, croissants and pastries. Secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00. You might already be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town. Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest. It’s a winner! Śniadaniownia ul. Dąbrowskiego 38, tel. 507 513 502. Open 8:00-15:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-17:00. A bright looking breakfast bar with pale woods and pot plants to offset any early morning trauma. The day’s breakfast sets are scrawled up on a blackboard, and usually involve a number of healthy living options to kicks start the day. Socjal (E4) ul. Foksal 18, tel. 601 318 966. Open 9:00-4:00. Looking raw, industrial and refreshingly ascetic, the principal feature of Socjal is the long communal table – who you end up talking to is down to the dice. There’s few

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS better places to order the Prosecco and act oh so continental. Steff Cafe (F6) ul. Jazdów 1, tel. 507 286 136. Open Sun-Thurs 10:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00. An intellectual looking cafe in one of the outbuildings by Zamek Ujazdowski. A limited selection of drinks and snacks is offset by a horizontal atmosphere and an adjoining bookstore filled with arty, coffee table tomes. Sto900 (E3) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 787 696 241. Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:0024:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. A fabulous café/ restaurant with a spontaneous design that jumbles bricks and wood with mismatched furniture. From the outside, this place looks like the entrance to a squat, so be surprised to learn it’s not just the atmosphere that’s ace. The menu changes daily, but usually involves commendable burgers (with a daring but successful addition of beetroot) alongside more unexpected dishes: e.g. eko-falafel.

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Usiądź Sobie ul. Gen. Zajączka 8, tel. 502 555 128. Open 10:00-22:00. A crisp looking café with vintage antiques set against pristine white furnishings and shiny surfaces. The menu is health conscious, and even includes a calorie count next to the breakfast options. Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16. Open Mon-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-1:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

WINE BARS

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Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. Covertly stashed inside a courtyard, that Ale Wino’s! neighbors include fashion Tsar Robert Kupisz announce this place as the frontline of cool – as if to qualify this, find furnishing by the celebrated design brains at Studio Rygalik. Stocked with wines from 16 countries, place your trust in sommelier Adrian Litkowicz for a taste of something special.

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Charlotte (D6) pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open Mon-

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Fri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-22:00. It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Mac technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar. Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight; Sun 14:0022:00. Located just outside the Old Town, this minimalist wine bar is a great place for a date. Wines from top European wine makers are impressive and the prices are very decent.

Joseph’s Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, www.josephwinebar.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This newlyopened restaurant, bar and wine shop features great atmosphere and amiable staff. Don’t come here for a quick dinner. Instead, come here to drink the wine and savor the rich and inventive meals. Service is slow, but rightly so, leaving guests with just enough time to regain their appetite for seconds. Being firmly tucked away from the center in a renovated factory allows you to easily whittle away the hours. BEST WAWA 2012 “Wine Bar” Winner Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine bar on ul. Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, café-style chic. The locale offers daily specials that feature two four-course menus. The shops’ wines are sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions. The summer courtyard garden is a particular standout feature. Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly

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excellent steak and salad. Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Some call it the best wine bar in Warsaw, others the best in Poland. Either way, this place hits the right notes with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu, old and new world wines and a chic warehouse design filled to bursting with crates and boxes. WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 8, tel. 22 646 8742, www.winkolekcja.pl. Open 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. You can’t pick your neighbors... In WinKolekcja’s case, that means a kebab shop opposite and a bottle bank with a constant stream of street bums. But in spite of the curious location, this new wine bar/ store looks set to thrive; the wine choice is comprehensive, and the food excellent. The design has the routine look of a club class lounge area; even so, it’s a timely addition to an area not rich in options. Winny Przystanek ul. Mickiewicza 20, tel. 789 321 333. Open Tue-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Mon 15:00-22:00. Found on the frontline of Żoliborz here’s the perfect wine bar – no jumped up city traders, just a chilled out crowd of locals enjoying a tipple from the impressive wall of wine. You’ll warm immediately to the condensed interiors which resound to the busy scrape of wood fittings on tiled, checkered floors. A great initiative that shows a good wine bar doesn’t have to take itself too seriously. Vinoteka 13 + Wine Bar (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7407, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This premium wine shop and bar is tucked away in the beautiful Likus Concept Store. It sports a wide selection of fine wines from Italy, France, and Spain, along with some stronger spirits and Cuban cigars at a varied price range. Also serves a tasting menu of cheeses and deli meats. Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32, tel. 696 561 652. Open 12:0024:00. Lacking in intimacy this large white room has an interior supplemented by jarring artwork and a set of swings. In the world of wine it’s vital the customer can connect with the sommelier – here it felt like we were joining the SS. The wine list is as serious as the service, and with only two wines available by the glass it’s not for the occasional wine fan.


Reviews: MiTo 57 / Plus:

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BARS & PUBS 57 / CLUBS 61 / GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS 62 / JAZZ CLUBS 62

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Insider’s Pick

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews

BOW 2012 Winner........... Food Served.................... Free wifi.............................. Live Music.......................... Map location pg. 78 ...... (A1) Romantic..........................

BARS & PUBS Bazar (F1) ul. Okrzei 22, tel. 508 321 264. Open 12:00-last guest. There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

MiTo ul. Waryńskiego 28, www.mito.art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 8:00-23:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ANNA J. KUTOR

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peak the words ‘art café’ and I think of Kraków. Specifically, I think of the Kazimierz district and its dark, shadowy haunts – you know the sort, cobwebs in the corner and chipped, wobbly tables. Crowded around them, student girls in stripy leggings, and pseudo intellectuals with second hand books. So when I first heard about Warsaw’s MiTo, that’s pretty much the picture that first sprang to mind. I couldn’t have been more wrong. Set round the corner from pl. Konstytucji, this place has reinvented the whole art café genre. No jumble sale furniture here, God no. Instead find dentist white backgrounds offset by modern art and edgy designer fittings; spin around a few times and you might just think you’re in the Tate Modern. Style-wise it works, with the wide spaces complimented by engaging art, a whole wall of intelligent reading material and floor-to-ceiling windows that allow maximum light to pour through inside. Of course, it’s more than just a café: it’s a gallery, a bookshop, and frankly a new way of life for Warsaw’s free thinkers. On the flip side, that also means it’s not ego-free, and to this extent don’t be too taken aback to find swaggering, skinny people wearing t-shirts claiming (rather unconvincingly) ‘I’m a Fucking Artist’. Indeed. Androgynous morons aside, it is however worth considering as a nocturnal venue. That’s down to a selection of beers sourced from obscure breweries only the truly committed piwo-phile will be aware of – for instance, it’s one of the few haunts in Warsaw dispensing the magnificent Bracki Rauch Bock: the ‘grand champion’ of the 2012 Birofilia Festival held in Żywiec. MiTo’s beery credentials are amply sustained by the presence of other more quirky beers, and it’s no surprise to learn this was the chosen venue for the launch of Ale Browar’s Naked Mummy pumpkin tinged Christmas tipple. With this in mind, it’s significantly easier to overlook the twitsters who’ve claimed this as home. (AW)

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest. One of the hits of 2012, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary film posters and some token pics of military hardware (pointing at Tel Aviv Cafe across the road). Androgynous staff deal out Lithuanian beer and Lebanese starters from behind a sandbag bar in this standout café-bar. Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia). Open 11:00last guest. It’s been five years since Bierhalle tapped their first beer, and in those five years they’ve nailed the market. Fantastic Pils served in a boozy, Bavarian atmopshere, and a decent menu to iron out any hunger issues. The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub.pl. How fickle this city can be. A few months ago we were proclaiming the launch of the Bulldog as one of Warsaw’s finest moments – then, inexplicably, the ownership got shot of the manager who’d made it the success that it was. Cue outrageous service, an ex-pat boycott, and a future that looks grim.

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NIGHTLIFE Browar de Brasil (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 76/80, tel. 534 600 990, www.browardebrasil.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Four house lagers served by sexy soccerettes dressed in tight Brazil tops. Featuring blood rose colors and deep, dark woods (a glass floor, even!), the interiors combine well with the copper brewing vats. The food though is amateurish, and at times inedible. Browarmia (C3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An industrial looking microbrewery filled with mysterious pipes, valves and

Eat And Drink All You Want Night Wings & Beer &...

gauges. The summer terrace is great, making it one of the best places around for a brew with a view. Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 523 749 160. Open 12:00-5:00 With its harsh lights, white tiles and collapsible tables this could pass for a school canteen – at least it would if the customers weren’t too cool for school. There’s serious posing going on in between drinks, and you’re clearly a no-mark if you weren’t at the launch. Still in their infancy, prepare for teething problems: e.g., running out of lager. Café Colombia (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www. colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Vast windows, vibrant colors and wide open spaces make it the polar opposite of the covert cocktail dens we usually like. But my God, the drinks here are special. The Chili Manhattan Dream is outstanding, and the Espressotini to die for – and after ordering eight we nearly did. Also on the roster, a range of impressive international beers. Cafe Kulturalna (C4) Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, www.kulturalna.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience.

Pay once – drink and eat all you want* Live music – DJ Cost 49 PLN Every Monday (launch date: 29.10.12)

WARSAW

*Promotion details and rules are available upon request in the restaurant. No alcohol will be served to persons under 18 years of age.

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Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754. Open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. Czarna.Bar ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. 22 416 2467. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:0021:00. The look doesn’t say ‘just finished’, it says ‘haven’t even started’. Cables hang from walls, and specks of paint cover the grey / white surfaces – whether this is actually part of the final design one can only guess. It’s upstairs you’ll find most people moving to, and we like it very much. Looking fashionably spartan, the area includes an L-shaped mattress thing, and a glass wall which allows you to peer in on the chef downstairs.

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Czeska Baszta Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego. Open TuesThurs, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00. Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish glow, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet. Czysta Ojczysta (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-4:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00. Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo. Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar (E6) ul. Mokotowska 43. Open 12:00-23:00. Checkered floor tiles, pristine whites and classic pictures of the rich and famous announce Flaming. The guys look like Bond villains and the gals just like Bond girls, but don’t think it’s a closed shop. With glasses of Moet starting below zł. 50 it’s accessible to all. But forget the champagne, it’s their cocktails we love. Order oysters and let the night take BEST WAWA 2012 “Cocktails” its course. Winner Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 502 070 916, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. Open MonThur 18:00-1:00, Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00.Even in an area known for its dive scene Hydrozagadka stands apart as something a little different. Competition is cutthroat in Praga, but even so this place wins the gong for most dismal interior – congrats. Looking like it’ll fall apart at any given signal, The H earns plaudits for weekends that whizz past in a blur of hedonism. Jimmy Bradley’s (C4) Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654 6656, www.jimmybradleys.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. Ex-pat Warsaw went into meltdown at the start of the year when it was announced landlord Kevin Bradley had left the pub bearing his name. With foreign custom dwindling this dark-looking pub now cuts a sorry shadow with rumors swirling


NIGHTLIFE about its imminent future.

shots amid cool, cartoonish murals.

Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 41, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00-last guest. Complimented by soft, lazy grooves, conversation comes fuelled by a fridge filled to bursting with diverse labels from Łomża and Gniewosz. Rounding out the art-mosphere, find a tubby looking dog nosing happily under tables. Decorated with birdhouses and wobbly plastic seats, it’s further proof that Praga cool has penterated mainland Warsaw.

Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl. Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Chilled out and downtempo, owners Zosia and Michał have created a legend out of this dinky two room affair. There’s too many beers to recommend, though the Rowing Jack diminishes quickly for a reason.

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Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 791 334 606. Open 12:004:00. Slotting into the space recently vacated by Tektura, Kraken has been dubbed ‘Beirut’s naughty brother’ – their words, not ours. Find a young, up-for-it crowd shooting down rum

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Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically

Shot Bars Bar Warszawa ul. Miodowa 2, Tel. 504 320 497. Open 24hrs. Creak upstairs to find a womb-like space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations like vintage radios, pics of old stars and black and white images of bare-breasted ladies. Run as a side hobby by a TV producer, the opening hours meet with full approval.

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Bistro Relaks (D4) ul. Złota 6, tel. 508 566 824. Open Sun-Thu 14:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 14:004:00. Retro style murals, some commie neon and staff in bow ties lend a distinct PRL edge to this shot bar, something enjoyed by a predominantly early 20s crowd.

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Głębokie Gardło (D2) ul. Bednarska 28. Open 16:00-5:00. Deep Throat reinvents the shot bar experience, thanks largely to a design that looks like it may have involved a professional. Using crisp blue and white colors, this vaulted chamber looks even better once the club crowd start emerging for post-party shots. Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21. Open 11:00-6:00. Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to chains of bog paper that commonly retailed.

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Między Wódką z Zakąską  ul. Chmielna 13. Open 10:00-24:00. Like most of its ilk, design never gets involved here. But that doesn’t stop one of the most diverse crowds in Warsaw gathering: on our visit, that meant Hilfiger clad preppies arm-wrestling (and winning) against the local hoods Go Tommy! The five zlot plastic glasses of Brackie get the job done, and fast. Pijalnia ul. Nowy Świat 19. Open 24hrs. Bow-tied staff serve vodka and pickles from behind a tiled bar to a crowd that gets younger as the day gets older. In quieter times, check the newspaperd walls to read up on 1980s sports reports. Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. Shots of vodka and plates of Polish stomach liners are dispensed inside a mirrored environment with droopy plants. It’s an after club must, with stern service guaranteed from agitated oldies dressed in tuxedos. Packed to the brim come three, four even five am. Warszawska Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. 600 121 240. Open 24hrs. When Plan B closes the hardcore head here. Little more than a grey concrete room, this newbie is winning the war as the city’s favorite shot bar.

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English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background. Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. Open 17:00-last guest. Tight trousers and flamboyant scarves are recommended in this hipster mecca, as is a triumphant drinks choice that numbers short of sixty regional beers. Design doesn’t go beyond jam jars for lights and a messy blackboard, but that’s all this place needs to work. Similar backstreet New York dive it’s got an effortless cool and our beer of the year: the minty flavor/raspberry hint M3. Molly Malone’s (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 41, tel. 693 333 954, www.mollymalone.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00. You’re not going to miss it: standing on street level, an elderly gent in top hat and tails waves customers in. Resist. Set over two floors, ground level features a narrow wood carved bar, while upstairs find music paraphernalia, benches and, in our case, a band called Gangbang rehearsing for later. Forget the name, it’s a Polish pub for local students. Na Lato ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 692 280 094. A popular summer haunt, thanks primarily to stretch of parkland that takes on the look of a giant, beery picnic once all the deckchairs are out. But even with winter, a tight schedule of cool events keep the former HQ of the SLD political party heaving with custom. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps. Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl. Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling. Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Engage in suicidal cocktail consumption


alongside high rollers and genetic miracles. Slick and smooth, Poland’s original cocktail chain continues to set the bar high with formidable cocktails (Pimm’s included!) and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door.

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Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16. Open 9:00-last guest. Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives, musicians and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks. Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A. Open 11:00-last guest. Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab. Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Plan B is a byword for everything that’s hip and happening in Warsaw. Design doesn’t even come into the equation in this grubby upstairs bar, but the free spirits can’t get enough of it. Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 22, tel. 501 048 471. Open 12:00-last guest. A collective groan was issued when their premises on Ząbkowska closed, so it’s three cheers to learn they’re back at a new address. Looking more sanitized than the shabby original, the standout feature of this dark-looking, brick-ceilinged haunt is what ranks as Warsaw’s best collection of craft beers. Sketch (E4) ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch. pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00; upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. Cool, sophisticated and fun. The international spread of beers is impressive, practically unbeatable in fact, and served inside edgy minimalist interiors.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49. Open Sun-Thur 15:0023:00; Fri-Sat 15:00-1:00. The intimate layout makes use of wobbly antiques, sofas covered in velvety fabrics and weird extras like a mannequin donning a Russian hat with furry, flappy ears. Nights typically involve lots of yet-to-be-famous beers (e.g. Stare Misto from Ukraine), while the lamp-lit toilet, seemingly built into a pre-war fireplace, is like stepping through the looking glass. Spotkanie ze Szpiegiem (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit.

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Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, www.syrenispiew.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 17:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00. Housed in a 70s monster this two floor bar maintains its element of retro chic while at the same time providing a genuinely unique drinking experience. Aimed at a more mature, affluent crowd than their sister bar (Warszawa PKP Powiśle), the standout factor is a whisky menu divided up into regions of BEST WAWA Scotland, Ireland and Japan. 2012 “New Bar” Winner Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open SunThu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00. More than just a Tex Mex joint, this is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world.

niawhisky.pl. Open Mon -Sun 12:00-22:00. With no old oak cabinets or portraits of Cambridge scholars it’s not the charismatic whisky bar one expects. Come to terms with this and you’ll be pleased to find excellent whisky – mostly from the Speyside Spey Distillery – inside dimly-lit pragmatic interiors. Znajomi Znajomych (D5) ul. Wilcza 58A. Open Sun-Thurs 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-5:00. We’re not sure what kind of design they’ve opted for on the ground level, but either way it doesn’t work. Head upstairs instead to join the hipsters spread across a host of (smoking) rooms. It’s here Zna Zna comes into its own, with a set of chambers decorated in eclectic retro style – including one room which some would describe as a Ron Jeremy orgy room. Things get hot and sticky on their weekend club nights.

CLUBS 1500m2 (F4) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. Set in a former printing factory, 1500m2 has been central to the rise of Powiśle. The industrial space has a real Berlin edge to it, and events range from weekend flea markets to teeth shattering, dusk-tilldawn electro events. Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl. An extravagant dance space with sparkly chandeliers, regal staircases and a modern Moscow, over-the-top style. Mark the Hed Kandi events in your diary.

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DeLite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub. com. Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest. Exposed brick pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror set-up in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, pretty-in-pink, spaceship interiors. Joining the top table of Warsaw’s other ‘uber klubs’ De Lite gets even better once access to the VIP room is scored.

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Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:00-4:00. Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. The prime months for this former ticket-booth are in summer when the deck chairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as the hipster Center of Power, a collective bout of outrage saved them from council threatened closure earlier in the year. Warszawska Pijalnia Whisky (D4) ul. Zgoda 6, tel. 22 553 61 00, www.pijal-

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NIGHTLIFE The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open Wed-Fri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest. Beauty and booty come first in The Eve, a blinged up offshoot of Platinium nearby. A cutthroat door policy ensures plenty of egos crash and die at the door, and it’s got a Bacchanalian reputation for champagne popping high jinks. Observe them through the one way mirror in the VIP room. Foksal XVIII ul. Foksal 18. Open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00. Composed using chandeliers, bricks and velvet this classy space has gone head to head with The Eve as Warsaw’s flashest venue: breathe deep and smell the money. Cardboard animal shapes hang from the bar, adding some surreal humor to the seriously competitive air. Jerozolima Al. Jerozolimskie 57. Set in a Gotham City tenement this former children’s hospital fills a daytime role as a ‘creative space’ for artists and architects. As evening counts down find numerous club events and music nights taking shape amid the atmospherically lit, half-derelict looking confines. Keep up to speed with what’s on through Facebook.

Lemon (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 6, tel. 22 829 5544, www. cafelemon.pl. A commercial dance basement that’s more beer than Belvedere. Hardly hedonistic, but usually a good mix of people – some who’ve made the effort, others who haven’t. While the club isn’t round-the-clock, the upstairs bar is, and as such find plenty of early morning casualties looking utterly zonked inside a chilled out, lemon yellow interior. Luzztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luzztro.pl. Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty? Then check Luzztro, a grim, grotty den where rules don’t apply. Embedded in folklore, this after-party legend really kicks off at around 5am, when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the finishing touches to their saucereyed stare. Your No. 1 choice for electro and minimal, it’s the full-tilt clubbing experience. Your head will hate you. Minus ul. Chmielna 9. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-6:00. The

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design mimics everything you expect from a modern Warsaw club (flashing zips of light, glossy surfaces), but the music sets it apart with a bold dedication to house, deep house and progressive sounds. With numerous international acts lined up to play, as well as a powerful sound system that leaves the teeth rattling, this could yet become a serious party choice. Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. A labyrinth of passageways and chambers await in Opera, a subterranean club located underneath the National Theater. Touting an exotic, far eastern look, it’s one of the best designed clubs you could imagine. Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, www.platiniumclub.pl. Open Wed-Sat 20:006:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs BEST WAWA 2012 “Rich & Right for Now. Pretty Club” Winner Utopia (D3) ul. Kredytowa 9. Formerly of Jasna, Warsaw’s first club to bring in serious door selection is back, and this time within a throw of the main party drag. Flying under a pseudo pink banner, it’s a love or loathe venue full of A-Z list stars and their hangers on.

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Watch Me ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, www.watchmeclub.pl. Open 19:00-4:00. Seen as a glowing glass block from the outside, Watch Me unravels into a multi-level club space: one with a sunken dance zone and a neon stripped stairwell.

GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS Coyote (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, www.coyotebar.eu. Coyote Bar marks the start of the Mazowiecka, err, strip, and features a small bar in front and then a larger

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2013

room with more intimate acts of friendship taking place behind the curtain.

New Orleans ul. Zgoda 11, tel. 22 826 4831, www.neworleans. pl. Open 21:00-4:00. High rollers looking to clinch a deal in unusual surrounds should consider doing so in New Orleans: a gentleman’s club with a seriously VIP dining area. Cheaper snack and sandwich options available should you prefer to spend your money on the real reason you’re here… Playhouse Al. Solidarności 82A, www.playhouse.com. pl. Housed in a former bomb shelter, would you believe it. Now though the talk is of bombshells, namely the 57 they���ve got on their books. Like most clubs, this place features a distinctly Slavic lineup of Poles, Russians and Ukrainians. Sin Club ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, www.sinclub.com. pl. One of the biggest and best dance stables in town offers a pleasingly international line-up that demonstrates a serious recruitment drive. You won’t find a more central strip club in town.

JAZZ Bistro na Pięknej ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, www.jazzone.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00. A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace – and just in time for winter, and all. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts. Nu ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 621 8989. Open 10:00-24:00. For something a little educated take a date to Nu, a high-ceilinged effort with slick urban dashes and regular piano. The Żurawia location marks it out as a popular spot for a high-end crowd. Tygmont Jazz Club (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl. Open daily 16:00-4:00. For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics.


Reviews: Secret Life (of Things) 63 / Plus:

* 1 update

SHOPPING

ACCESSORIES 65 / FASHION 63 / HOME DECOR 65 / SHOPPING MALLS 66

Insider’s Pick

FASHION Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. Bizuu ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 609 888 363, www. bizuu.pl. A gorgeous, feminine collection from two talented Polish designers – including, the must need pastels of the coming season.

Secret Life (of Things) ul. Polna 18/20, tel. 22 412 4811, www.secretlife.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.

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his shop calls itself an ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ and I would say that description is pretty much on the money. Even before you walk in, you get a sense of some sort of magical organic mystery at work. Basically it’s an all-in-one stop-and-shop for chic vegetarians, full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. And it’s the multi-colored tins that greet you at the door, all of them crying out ‘drink me’. Further on there is a sort of fashion nook in the back with bits of clothing and a large selection of handmade shoes. The shoes are actually quite hot, but most of the clothing was just too organic, too neutral for my tastes. So I dived back into the main feature, looking over the broad selection of just about anything that might look cute in a corner of your apartment. I especially love the teapot set made by a Polish artist inspired by the Mad Hatter’s Tea Party – a great gift from one of the most historic porcelain manufacturers in Poland (Kristoff) and relatively affordable at just a few hundred zlots. My favorite part of this shop, however, is the selection of Madara cosmetics. I’ve been dreading the moment my current supply runs out since the eco shop I used to get it closed down a few weeks ago. But just as that fateful day approached, there it was, beaming at me in its bright green box: the best replenishing cream in the entire world. Made in Latvia with all natural ingredients, it smells like a dream and is the only cream that actually moisturizes my skin instead of drying it out. There’s also a bunch of tonics and face washes, which are actually not badly priced considering all the junk Sephora peddles for three times the figure. It’s not easy to leave the shop, the smell of lemongrass and lavender entice me to linger. Finally, I head towards the door, but not before taking note of a huge stack of oversized chocolate bars that give a sinful finish to an otherwise very healthy experience. (AL)

Boudoir 26 ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 22 400 9330, www.boudoir26.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A unique luxury lingerie boutique selling top brands like Chantal Thomass, Lou Paris, ID Sarrieri and Chantelle. The boutique offers a high quality shopping experience inside a comfortable space. Shopping by appointment also available, where you can enjoy the shopping experience with a glass of bubbly. Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander. The current collection is a true tribute to S/S 2012 - bright colours, florals, platform heels and wedges. Clue (E3) ul. Solec 101, tel. 22 695 7897, www.cluefashion.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Clue stocks items from Moschino, ASOS, DKNY, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Cavalli, Steve Madden, Armani, as well as up-and-coming designers, and a number of children’s brands. Designer Secret Al. Witosa 31 (1st floor, outlet 119), CH Panorama, tel. 506 051 048, www.designersecret.pl. High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks

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SHOPPING brim with women and men’s apparel from the 2008-2010 collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price. Eleven* ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 794 347 928, www.be-eleven. pl. Open Mon-Fri 11.00-19.00; Sat 11.00-16.00 (shopping by appointment also available). Find clothing, accessories and jewelry from a carefully selected portfolio that combines up-and-coming international brands such as Sandwich and Joseph Ribkoff with the best of Poland’s flourishing fashion scene. And what better way to contemplate this eclectic mix than with a glass of wine or an energizing espresso in hand?  Ermenegildo Zegna (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7000, www. zegna.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Everything for the well-dressed man, from suits to belts, and sportswear. Flaming & Co. (D6) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 629 0545, www.flaming-co.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. This concept store, now re-opened on ul. Mokotowska after renovation work, brings a fresh seaside breeze to Warsaw. Also checkout the branch of Flaming & Kids on ul. Mokotowska. Frenchy Store ul. Wspólna 27A, tel. 500 541 473, www.frenchystore.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. A hip and urban fashion store with sneakers from Vans, Onistuka Tiger and Nike, clothing by Risk. Made in Warsaw, and accessories by the likes of Mighty Wallet, Komono, Candy Crystal and SiS. Joanna Klimas (B2) ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, www.joannaklimas.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:0020:00. One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho.

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Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. Lilla Moda (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, Klif www.lilla.com.pl. Here you’ll find exclusive Italian clothing brands, including Versace Jeans, Just Cavalli, GF FERRE, D&G, EXTE and Liu Jo. Loding Shoes and Shirts (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, 1st Floor, tel. 22 541 3774, www.loding.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The respected French shirtand-shoemaker recently opened its first shop in Warsaw. The place to go for top-of-the-line shirts, cufflinks and made-to-order dress shoes for the well-dressed man.

Loft Fashion ul. Burakowska 5/7 (2nd floor), tel. 22 636 0255, www.loft-fashion.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Everything the businessman requires: suits, shirts, shoes and cigars. Impeccable tri-lingual service in a top location. In July you can enjoy a summer clearance with 70% off. Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom. Max Mara ul. Nowy Świat 1. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Poland’s first Max Mara mega store, with interior designed by Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Find all the latest from Max Mara Runway and the Max Mara Atelier coat collection, as well as Sportmax Runway and a growing range of in-house accessories. Mokobelle ul. Wilcza 3 (entrance from Mokotowska 54), tel. 508 010 204. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. An eclectic collection of Polish jewelry, along with pieces from worldclass names like Rodrigo Otazu.

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2013

Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, office@ moliera2.com, www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain. Muji (A1) Arkadia Mall (lok 23 A), Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 356 1039, www.muji.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories. Premiere (A2) Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710. The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace. QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48 (courtyard), tel. 690 021 787, www.robertkupisz.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00. One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner, and Kupisz’s latest collection is a tribute to Americana: think disheveled cowgirls flouncing on the prairie. Redford and Grant (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00. This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and


accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada.

Bagatt features Italian-made footwear. A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży.

Reykjavik District (F4) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, www.reykjavikdistrict.com. Open Tues-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Chic, wellcut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Batycki (various locations) Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite.

Rodrigo de la Garza (Ochota) ul. Bema 65, suite 6; www.delagarza.it. Opening hours: by appointment. Rodrigo de la Garza is an eponymous menswear label started up by an ambitious young man from Mexico who’s happened to opt for Poland as his home base. The designer’s speciality is custom-made, or bespoke suits, ideally cut and in all the styles and patterns you could possibly conjure up. Rudolf & Co. (by appointment only) tel. 790 604 634, www.rudolfco.com. A team of six tailors, the selection of which took some four years to finalise, sews items in-house. A darling of local press, with bespoke suits a specialty. See Me Boutique ul. Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 0404. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Major pieces from American and European designers, including Paul & Joe, as well as the Elizabeth and James line from the Olsen twins. Simple (Various Locations) Klif, Arkadia, Sadyba, Blue City and Galeria Mokotów (see site for more locations and opening hours), tel. 22 531 4500 (Klif), www.simple-cp.com. This original Polish brand has risen up the ranks over the past 15 years to become one of the most stylish labels on the market. Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, www.snobissimo.pl. Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a onestop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

ACCESSORIES Bagatt (E6) ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 621 9144. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.

Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, tel. 22 611 3814. You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry. Church’s (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes. Dada (Praga) ul. Ząbkowska 38, tel. 602 173 717, www.galeriadada.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00–19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. It’s a bit hard to define exactly what Dada sells – (from jewellery to lamps, tunics and kitchen appliances) – but one thing is for sure: you won’t find any of it anywhere else. Elf Joy by Kasia Kucharska (by appt) tel. 792 793 729, www.elfjoy.com. Kasia Kucharska travels all over the world to find stones that she turns into brilliant hand-made pieces of semi-precious stones, including amethyst, tourmaline and garnett. Available by special order. Frey Wille (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, www.frey-wille.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Vienna-based jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals. Furla (E5) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 3896, www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The highly-coveted handbag label’s flagship store in Warsaw

features all the latest styles from Milan. Hermitage Boutique (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 22 323 7676, www.hermitage.pl. Get set to indulge at Warsaw’s most prestigious fine watch and jewelry boutique. Offers a world-class selection of pieces from Girard Perregaux, Chopard, Bvlgari, Blancpain, Chaumet, de Grisogono, Omega, Breitling and Scatolo del Tempo. HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, www.mokotowska63.com. Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern. Kate & Kate (D5) ul. Wspólna 50A/20, tel. 501 021 841, www.kateandkate.pl Open Mon-Fri 13:0019:00; Sat 10:00-14:00 This shop is so tucked away, you’d never find it without heads up from a friend. But once you do, be prepared to enter a world of brilliant accessories. Lewanowicz Cafe & Boutique Pl. Grzybowski 10, tel. 22 650 0590, www. lewanowicz.com. Lewanowicz’s original house collection of precious and semiprecious stones is supplemented by several other designer ranges, including the Ayalabr line from Israel. Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, www.lilou.pl. Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista. Pracownia Czasu ul. Wiejska 14, tel. 622 12 12, www.pracowniaczasu.pl. Luxury watches from brands like Corum, Vulcain, Ulysee Nardin, Magellan and Fortis.

HOME DECOR 3F Studio (B2) ul. Nowolipki 28b, tel. 22 651 5644, www.3fstudio.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide. The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients. Apteka Sztuki (E6) Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5, tel. 22 622 0421. Open

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SHOPPING Tues-Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-17:00. Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features collections by up-and-coming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names. The exhibits, which rotate on a monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe (although the focus is on Poland). Bo Concept (A1) ul. Młocińska 5/7, tel. 22 636 7770. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00. Lovely, clean lines make this one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home. Coqlila ul. Lentza 20 (Wilanów), tel. 22 651 6884,www.coqlila.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 10:00-16:00.Home products with a marked provincial French style. Among the offer are fabrics, fragrances, furniture and kitchenware. ego&eco (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35, tel. 22 826 2512. www.egoeco.eu. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. Stocks everything from unique handmade jewellery to pure linen hand towels, traditional honey and organic soaps. Combines style with an eco-philosophy. Galeria 2 Deco (D6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 621 2420, www.2deco.pl. A small yet concise collection of brilliant home furnishings that combine the classic with contemporary at fair prices.

Special orders and consulting also available. Glamstore (C9) ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel. 22 403 2300. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line. Mokotowska 71 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629 0511, www.mokotowska71.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style. An ideal place for brides-to-be to register, as service in MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, NEW CITY building (Mokotów), tel. 22 360 4389, www.moomo.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm. Numero Uno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, www.numerouno.pl. Exclusive furniture and fittings with brands including Poggenpohl, Presotto Italia, Calia Italia, EGO zeroventiquattro, Masiero, Bang & Olufsen and Porsche.

Boudoir 26

ul. Wilcza 11 00-538 Warszawa Tel: 22 400 93 30 info@boudoir26.pl www.boudoir26.pl We are open monday-friday: 11-19 saturday: 11-15

Red Onion (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339; ul. Szpitalna 8, tel. 22826 0008. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-18:00. www.redonion.pl. Their new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget.

SHOPPING MALLS Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15. Open Mon-Thurs 9:0021:30; Fri 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, www.klif.pl. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Bomi supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. Hip and high-end department store with units such as NYCity (DKNY, Donna Karan), Berries & Co. (Ice Watch, Triwa, Ike Milano), UEG, My Paris and Take a Nap selling great pieces from both established and upcoming designers. Promenada (Saska Kępa) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, www.promenada.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00 Vitkac Wolf Bracka Wolf Center, ul. Bracka 9, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega, Yves Saint Laurent, etc… Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

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Reviews: Colourstrings Music School 81 / Plus:

CHILDREN

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ACTIVITIES 67 / CAFES 68 / EDUCATION 69 / SHOPS 70

Insider’s Pick

ACTIVITIES Barwy Muzyki ul. Niecała 14, www.barwymuzyki.pl. This informal music school, with highly qualified teachers experienced in the Colour Strings program, acknowledges not every child will be a professional musician but that playing, listening and singing to music is an asset to their development. Group or individual lessons on piano, violin, guitar, cello and flute for 6-12yrs. Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, www.kopernik.org.pl. A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

Colourstrings Music School (Barwy Muzyki) ul. Niecała 14, tel. 22 188 1827, www.barwymuzyki.pl, www.colourstrings.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPHS BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

W

hen mum has a mission you can pretty much guarantee she’ll see it through. This is exactly what Olga Trzebińska has done with her ambitious Colourstrings music school. Poland prides itself on having schools dedicated to musical excellence, but only the most disciplined of students will make it through the grueling schedules to become professional musicians. For Olga sacrificing her children’s playtime for music practice was not an option. She knew that the two had to be compatible. It was not long before she was in direct contact with Dr. Geza Szilvay, the Hungarian violinist and creator of the Colourstrings method. Her eagerness to introduce this method to others led to her opening the first ever Colourstrings School in Poland. The schools philosophy is simple: add fun to learning with improvisation and create an environment where music, singing and instruments are accepted as part of the daily lifestyle. Following music sheets transformed into colorful characters, children are encouraged to experiment with instruments and song as they would with their toys. Olga has recruited an impressive array of qualified music teachers. Children 6-12 years old can sign up for weekly piano, flute, guitar, cello or violin lessons that match to their individual schedules. Group classes, for a gentle introduction to music and song, are available for 4-7 year olds. The Polish/English website is informative and personal, but what really sold this school to me was the opportunity to take classes as parent and child (duo packages). What better way to introduce the more sensitive or reluctant child to the world of music than watching mummy or daddy make fools of themselves first! So, after years of drowning my voice under the shower and hiding behind song sheets during December carol singing, I think my New Year’s resolution will most definitely be signing up for some singing lessons. Of course, my daughter is the perfect excuse to hide the fact I am secretly quite looking forward to it. The school is located at two city central locations and reasonably priced classes are held in either Polish or English. (GBB)

Fryzjerkowo ul. Foksal 12/14, www.fryzjerkowo.pl. This 100% child friendly hair salon with jungle theme interior will guarantee no tears! Whilst having their locks chopped children sit in a toy car and watch a favorite DVD. Mum can peruse the retro toys and classic books on sale. Owner speaks excellent English. Advance booking recommended. Fundacja Atelier ul. Foksal 11, www.atelier.org.pl. Situated in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/drawing/ sculpture/art history) for children, young people and adults. HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, www.hulakula.com.pl. Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools. Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu. Little Chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and

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CHILDREN Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cookand-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit www.littlechef.pl or call 0501 093 691 for more information.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym. Over 300 locations worldwide, with the first one in Poland opened last November. Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well. Teatr Lalka Pl. Defilad 1 (Palace of Culture), www.teatrlalka.waw.pl. This puppet theatre stages a variation of productions suitable for children aged 3 +. Scenery, props and costume design are impressive but Polish dialogue is challenging! Losing the plot to Hansel and Gretel can happen - prepare to improvise! Tip: organize a backstage birthday party. Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl. Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday

parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

CAFES Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, figazmakiem.edu.pl. One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones romp in the kids room. Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, www.fikumikucafe.pl. This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children. The focus is on films and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties. Kalimba ul. Mierosławskiego 19, www.kalimba.pl. Kalimba café caters to Warsaw’s boho-chic community. Relax with long latte’s or nibble healthy snacks whilst kids climb a spiral staircase to the indoor tree house, role-play in the kitchen area or join creative workshops. The shop, with original handmade toys is tempting, but it’s the pick’n’mix candy that’s unavoidable! Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława),

tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with a garden/playground, Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials. Kosmos Kosmos ul. Koszykowa 55. Open 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-last guest. The design fuses retro with rock, while the children’s area comes with a handmade puppet theater, cardboard castle and enticing kids menu. ‘Fun workshops’ take place at noon each Saturday. Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561, www.kredkafe.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows. Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space. My Baby Café ul. Nowoursynowska 147, www.mybabycafe.pl. A bright and airy café serving good food and great coffee at reasonable prices. Downstairs is the Holy Grail – shiny new toys, a mini kitchen for the girls, a tool bench for the boys, and a large playhouse (real doorbell and all!). They even provide a nanny at no extra cost! Paradise for kids and heaven for Mums.

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Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30. The latest hotspot on the family map, Nabo is run by a Danish couple, and its light and minimalist interior – designed by those who created R20 – lends itself to every occasion. But aside from its tasty and seasonal dishes, it’s the children’s corner that is causing the biggest commotion. Nowa Kuźnia (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, www.nowakuznia.pl. Hugely child friendly, Nowa Kuźnia comes into its element each summer when the garden is turned into a giant faux beach – complete with diggers, slides and a see-saw.

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Pompon (Wola) ul. Młynarska 13, www.pompmart.pl. There’s more than an organic menu to recommend about Pompom. Explore forest-to-city

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play environments equipped with slides, rope bridges and a selection of Wendy houses, or join the dad’s and lads in the Nintendo / Wii room. How long, you may ask, will it be till parents start turning up here without the kids just to wallow in the color? Sto900 (E3) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 787 696 241. Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. Popular with trendy families wheeling retro prams, Sto900 has a separate children’s zone with a playschool feel.

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Tamika ul. Wolska 44, tel. 535 644 990, www.tamika.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:30-20:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Large adbright children’s area, nutrititous menu and a choice of workshops that range from English lessons to art classes to Capoeira mark Tamika out as one of the best in its genre. Umpa Lumpa ul.Mickiewicza 24, tel. 22 245 1909, umpalumpa.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00. Bit part café, most part candy store. Colorfully designed, shelves here feature an array of rainbow colored lollipops, sweets and chocolate. Spoil your toddler, and yourself while you’re there.

EDUCATION PRESCHOOLS

Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów),mob. 502 355 919, www.trampoline.edu.pl. This preschool has a lingual profile and offers bilingual teaching with French and English. They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching.

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The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dabrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 2 ½ (30 months) to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15. Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool (C11)

ul. Kalatówki 24, tel. 22 898 3139, 697 979 100. The pre-school branch of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides both Polish and International 3-5 year olds with the perfect setting for their first encounters with English and French in an inquiry based classroom. Here, every task relates to real life experience and skills. For further info, English-run preschool tours and school visits ul. please callŁanowej or email: Piechoty 46a Authentic Montessori (entrance from ul. Rotmistrzowska) preschool@canadian-school.pl. curriculum Unique music program Natural playground Healthy nutrition

tel. +48 531 599 444 www.mapletreemontessori.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools. Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16, tel./fax: 22 616 1499, www.saintexupery.pl. Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 2½ years old.

The English Playhouse (F12) ul. Płyćwiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, www.theenglishplayhouse.com. The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com. Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl.

The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising. Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46a (entrance from ul. Rotmistrzowska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl. Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by an Orff/ Kodály-based music syllabus. Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street. Their program, which is designed for three to six year-olds, is devoted to the intellectual, emotional, social and physical development of children. International Schoolhouse Warsaw

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.monte ssoriacademy.eu. An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

Tequesta ul. Przejazd 24, tel. 603 919 096/535 400 033, info@tequesta.pl, www.tequesta.pl. Polish and English language groups for children aged from six months to six years, as well as a wide range of extra-curricular activities.

SCHOOLS Oznaczenie koloru:

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American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 702 8500, fax 022 702 8500, admissions@aswarsaw.org, www.aswarsaw. org. The American School of Warsaw provides comprehensive programs and R - 242 G - 142 B- 0

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CHILDREN facilities based on a US system of education for ages 4 to 18.

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The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system. The Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School Unit ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646 9289, 697 970 244. The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 6-10 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provides for an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include pottery, dance, ballet, capoeira, karate, emotional intelligence, art studio and tennis. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: secretary@canadian-school.pl.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 20, tel. 697 977 600, 697 979 300. The Middle and High unit of the Canadian

School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 11-19 year olds. With both Canadian and Polish curricula content students are given the opportunity to choose between Polish Matura or IB Diploma exams. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: mid.high@ canadian-school.pl.

Ecole Antoine de SaintExupéry (H4) Established in 1994, the Antoine de SaintExupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children two to eight years old (3rd year of primary school) in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers. Kid’s Academy Primary & Pre-School ul. Arbuzowa 33D (Wilanów), ul. Łąkowa 38 (Konstancin), tel. 501 205 080, www.kidsacademy.com.pl. A Private English Polish School which provides an excellent early educational program for children from ages 2.5 - 5 years old and at the Primary School, from Grade 0. Combining elements of both the Polish and British curriculum, the focus is on creating a positive and vibrant learning environment. They’re also proud of their large playground and variety of healthy foods.

Happy New Year from Warsaw Montessori School

Warsaw Montessori School accepting applications for: Toddler: age 1.5-2.5 Casa: age 2.5 - 6 Elementary: age 6-9,9-12 contact Ela: office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Szwolezerów 4, Warszawa Badowska 19, Warszawa Szkolna 16, Izabelin

www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl

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Lycée Français de Varsovie ul. Walecznych 4/6, tel. 22 616 5400, www.lfv.pl. French school admitting students from the age of two years old. All instruction is in French. Languages offered : Polish, English, German, Spanish, Latin. Also, a wide variety of after school activities (sport, arts, extra-curricular instruction). Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

SHOPS Endo Multiple locations, www.endo.pl. Endo is the original home of quality children’s wear that embraced great design by Polish artists and accompanied it with Polish slogans. Much of the materials used are organic, hardwearing and wash well. A good address for baby basics and all closet essentials. Mimbla ul.Mokotowska 51/53, www.cudanakiju. pl. Exclusively for kids on Warsaw’s most exclusive shopping street it’s an Aladdin’s cave of quality toys and Polish/English books. Get your gift wrapped here and both mum and child will be happy even before opening it. Pieluszkarnia Multiple locations, www.pieluszkarnia.pl. This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and Martello blankets personalized for births etc. Smyk Multiple stores, www.smyk.pl. Smyk is Poland’s answer to Mothercare; from bottle sterilizing kits to pencil cases, early learning toys to Disney classics and a wide range of seasonal clothing, this store will take you from childbirth to high school!


Reviews: Bartek Janusz Salon 71 / Plus:

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LIFESTYLE

ACCOMODATION 71 / COMMUNITY 75 / HEALTH & BEAUTY 72 / MEDICAL 74 / TRANSPORTATION 72

ACCOMODATION

Insider’s Pick

HOTELS IN WARSAW 5-star hotels H15 Boutique Apartments (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, www.h15boutiqueapartments.com. Luxury short and long-term stay accommodation inside stunning Italian furnished apartments in the city center.

Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19, ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, 691 782 453, www.bartekjanuszpl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-18:00; Sat 9:00-14:00.

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d passed this place hundreds of times on my way to work and yet I’d never felt brave enough to walk in. Why? Probably because it seems so darnn snooty that I just never felt fancy enough to stroll in and make a hair appointment. It was all quite silly of me, really, especially as it turned out one of my closest friends was a regular. And this friend has just about the best haircut I’ve seen on any woman in this city. So finally I summoned up the guts to march in there, face the uber-trendy metrosexual male at reception and make an appointment. After all, it’s a new year: time to bring my hair back to life. I was in and out in just about an hour. The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair. It goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place – mostly white and filled with mirrors, with floor-to-ceiling windows that let you look out on all the miserable people out there. To the left is a small fashion section offering some pieces from fresh Polish designers and hair accessories from Bartosz Janusz. My stylist turned out to be the beefy guy with tattooed biceps and a twinkle in his eye (I also later figured out he’s Bartek Janusz himself). He had one of the girls wash my hair, which she did thoroughly and with none of that neck pain – the sinks and the chairs are all adjustable. Mr Bartek Janusz snipped at my hair for no more than fifteen-twenty minutes. Almost no time at all. But even when my hair was still wet, I could see it had some shape again, it wasn’t just a half-frizzy, half-flattened mess. The assistant came back to dry my hair straight. Mr Bartek Janusz was back to apply the final touches and I am not lying when I say I have never walked out of a salon so satisfied. I finally had the haircut I wanted: smooth, but with a Victoria’s Secret runway-style twist. As much as I’ve always hated going to the salon (mainly for the fact that they always chop off five inches when they’ve promised only two) I think I’m on my way to becoming a regular at this swanky little spot. (AL)

Hilton Warsaw (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com. Single and double room €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays). Excellent services and amenities in a world-class hotel and conference centre. Holmes Place Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities. Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, www.warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor. Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com. Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169. Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna. Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com. Muffle up for an evening prowl around old town, before spoiling yourself inside the desginer confines of this boutique masterpiece. Prices start from

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LIFESTYLE approx. €115, but it’s well worth your time browsing their ‘romantic break’ and ‘just married’ packages.

ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Single & double rooms: €135 (weekdays), €99 (weekend).

Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com. Prices from: zł. 231 (weekends), zł. 528 (weekdays). Gym and swimming pool. Central location only 20 minutes from the airport. All rooms with panoramic view.

Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com. Single and double rooms: zł.265-480. Wellness centre and sauna.

The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220. 24-hour fitness centre for guests only. Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, tel. 22 450 6100. Single & double rooms: €77126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna. Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Single & double rooms zł. 420-490 (weekend rate from zł.250). First Class Fitness Centre.

Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €95200. Swimming pool now open to the public. Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.

4-star hotels

Radisson Blu (B5) pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl. Single & double rooms €60-94. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna. Holiday Inn (C4) ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com. Single room: €100 (weekend), €124 (weekdays), double room: €120 (weekend), €144 (weekdays). Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.­ Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4) ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €78-112. Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport)

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Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com. Single & double rooms: €60-235. 24-hour fitness centre for hotel guests only. Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.pl. Airport Hotel Okęcie is located 800 m from Warsaw Frederic Chopin Airport. Single & double rooms: €155, €123 (weekdays). Single & double rooms: €70-80 (weekends). Jacuzzi, sauna, tennis courts, and gym.

APARTMENTS

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc. MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana. A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays. P & O Apartments ul. Kasprowicza 91, tel. 22 636 8699, www.pandoapartments.com.pl. Vision Apartments Al. Jerozolimskie 81 (22nd floor), tel. 22 292 88 88, www.visionapartments.eu. Luxury long-stay apartments courtesy of this Germanborn company. ‘Design is our main aim’, they say, and that’s reflected by expertly designed lodgings with a high element of modern style.

TRANSPORTATION CAR RENTAL

Avis (C5) tel. 22 572 6565, fax 22 572 6566, Fredrick Chopin Airport, Al. Jerozolimskie

WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2013

65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 650 4872/3. Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl. Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360. Reservations: tel. 22 500 1620, 800 143 789. Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, fax 22 511 1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, fax 022 650 2032, www.sixt.pl.

RELOCATION COMPANIES AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702-1072, fax 022 702-1077.

Besto Relocations ul. Kłobucka 8 /127, tel. 22 847 8878, mob. 514 643 286, warsaw@bestorelocations.com, www.bestorelocations.com. High-quality international relocation services to and from Poland for corporate and individual clients. CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com. Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, fax 22 701 7177, warsaw@interdean.com, www.interdean.com. With 120 relocation service centres and employs 3,150 international relocation services staff across Europe and EMEA, and over 600 alliances worldwide. Move One Relocations tel. 22 630 8160, poland@moveoneinc.com, www.moveoneinc.com. Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. Award-winning service from a company that’s been active in the field since 1992.

HEALTH & BEAUTY SPAS & SALONS

Beauty Secret/Spa/Retreat ul. Nowowiejska 38, Józefów, tel. 22 789 2016, www.beautysecret.pl. Located about 20 km outside of Warsaw, Beauty Secret is the place to go and recharge your batteries, relax and get pampered.


B&B Clinic ul. Grzybowska 3, tel. 22 403 65 72, www.bbclinic.pl. An array of body and beaity treatments inside pristine five star facilities. Whether you want to slim down using the latest technologies, rejuvenate the skin or relax during a massage, there’s few better qualified. 10% for Insider readers. Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Koszykowa 31, tel. 22 621 1404, www.nailspabiosis.pl. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160, www.bodyclinic.pl. Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases. Club Oasis Spa Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 22 851 0563, www.cluboasis.pl. Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw. Amazing Clarins body firming and rejuvenating treatments, facials, reflexology and wide range of massages at the beauty center round out a healthy lifestyle. The Cutting House – Exclusive Hairdressing (E5) ul. Wiejska 20, www.cuttinghouse.pl, tel. 22 622 6362. The Cutting Salon has an elegant polish on a contemporary design and a wide variety of celebs, diplomats and your run-ofthe-mill fashionista dropping in for a trim or a manicure. You will not be disappointed. Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher East, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage. Dior Institute and Dessange Beauty Salon Metropolitan Building, pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 22 331 0808, www.diorinstitut.com. This sleek boutique offers a state-of-the-art treatment room and professional staff for all your pampering needs. DS Instytut Al. Ujazdowskie 24, tel. 22 622 13 81, www. dsinstytut.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:00-16:00. Different treatments: some

relaxing, some energizing, some both! The latest player on the block has set its cards on technology, packing a pretty penny into state-of-the-art machines that deliver Hollywood results. Fish Spa ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 22 414 3737, www.fishspainstytut.pl. Let 200 Garra Rufa fish do the work on your pedicure and manicure. Alternatively, enjoy more traditional (ie. less fishy) facials and body massages – all at reaonable prices in the heart of the center. Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414, www. fiuufiuu.pl. A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products.

ages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers. Similan ul. Wiertnicza 120, tel. 22 858 16 48, www. similan.pl. Open Tue-Sun 11:00-22:00. Allow the stresses of everyday city life to evaporate at Similan; the Thai massages are relaxing, detoxifying and stimulating. Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, www.jejijego.pl. Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

Hair Club Warsaw ul. Kruczkowskiego 6, tel. 22 828 0288, www.hairclubwarsaw.pl. Hair Club dispense with the farce and make your hair look great. They also provide manicures and pedicures and even throw in a decent free coffee. Izar Repechage ul. Moliera 1, tel. 22 827 7195, www.repechage.net.pl. A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatment for the whole body. Le Spa (E5) ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428. This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw. Pearl Spa at the InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, 43 floor, tel. 22 328 8643, www.pearlspa.pl. This bright and full of windows spa has an eclectic menu of “body rituals” such as the Maghreb ritual and Ayurvedic massages. The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, tel. 22 241 3000, www.pedicure-place.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-18:00. A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

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Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl. Open Mon - Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-21:00. Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include pack-

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LIFESTYLE Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 22 582 9474, 517 012 880, www.spasungate.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments as well as a VIP room for couples.

MEDICAL MEDICAL PRIVATE CLINICS Austria-Dent-Center (B4) ul. Żelazna 54, tel. 22 654 2116, www.austriadent.pl.

Centrum Pomocy Profesjonalnej (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 80, floor 21, room 129, Babka Tower, tel. 22 637 4080; ul. Puławska 257 (floor 1, suite 71), Melody Park, tel. 22 241 2444, www.cpp.eu.

PRIVATE CLINICS

Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www. astermed.pl. Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

Medicover Center Atrium, Al. Jana Pawła II 27, ul. Inflancka 5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. 18, ul. Domaniewska 37, ul. Puławska 278, ul. Poligonowa 3. Hotline: 19 677 or 500 900 500, Medicover Hospital on Al. Rzeczypospolitej 5 in Wilanów tel. 500 900 900,

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Centrum Damiana ul. Wałbrzyska 46, ul. Foksal 3/5, al. K.E.N 103, tel. 22 566 2222, www.damian.com.pl.

Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com. English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress and much more besides.

Eurodental ul. Nowowiejska 37, tel. 22 857 0088, www.eurodental.pl. Lim Medical Center Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (C5), ul. Domaniewska 41, ul. 17-ego Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawła II 78, tel. 22 458 7000, www.cmlim.pl.

Wilanow Family Practice ul. Kosiarzy 37/90, tel. 22 642 7404 / 602 268 826, www.wilanowfamilypractice.pl. Open Mon-Weds & Fri 12:30-19:00; Sat 9:0012:00. Highly recommended by all, book a visit to English-speaking Dr. Andrzej Gajer for consultations, medical evaluations and minor surgical procedures. Appointments outside of the above-mentioned times are available on request.

IN JANUARY E-LEARNING FOR FREE! Contact us for more details.

Margaret Rybak, Psy.D. ul. Lipska 27/24. US-trained doctoral level psychologist. APA member. Specialises in individual psychotherapy for adults and children. For more information: www.mrybak.waw.pl, mob. 606 518 151.

Ren Clinic Al. Gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok. 12A, tel. 22 414 2222, www.renclinic.pl. Surgical care, cosmetics, medical dermatology, aesthetic medicine and more.

Lux Med Medical Clinics ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4); ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24hr hotline: 801 800 808, for mobile users: tel. 22 332 2888, www.luxmed.pl.

Malo Clinic (C4) Rondo ONZ 1, MALO CLINIC Warsaw is Central Europe's first clinic tel. 22 335 7755, www.maloclinics.com/ of the world’s leader in Implantology and Dental Aesthetics, offering full dental care, and above all polska. Thisimplant world class dental clinic advanced dental surgery. Located in a modern office complex Rondo 1 at incorporates five dental offices, Rondo ONZ, in the city center of Warsaw, the Clinic an operating can be easily accessed as it is located in only 10 minutes from Railway Station, 30 minutes froma state-of-theroom, twoCentral recovery rooms and the F. Chopin International Airport, near bus, tram and subway station (Świętokrzyska Station). artstops diagnostic center. Entry into a secured car park in the Rondo 1 building – WARSAW

World Leader in Implantology Vertebraliaand Dental Aesthetics

ul. Postępu 6, tel. 22 449 2828, www.vertebralia.pl. A clinic specializing in the integrated treatment of all kinds of spinal illness. With 20 years of experience, they perform innovative treatments with state-ofthe-art equipment.

off Pańska street. Services Available MALO CLINIC Warsaw provides the best specialists and the latest diagnostic equipment (including computer tomography), in the field of:

POLISH LANGUAGE SCHOOL FOR FOREIGNERS

Dental Surgery Implantology Aesthetic Prosthetics

Conservative Dentistry Endodontics Orthodontics

MALO CLINIC Office complex Rondo 1 (+48) 22 335 77 55 Warsaw 1st floor in Building A warsaw@maloclinics.com Rondo ONZ 1 www.maloclinics.com/polska | www.maloclinics.com

TAILOR-MADE individual and minigroup courses - intensive - regular - weekend at the school or at your place First Lesson Free Free conversation classes www.klubdialogu.pl info@klubdialogu.pl tel. 664 788 004

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WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2013

ARY IN JANU NG I E-LEARN ! E FOR FRE s Contact u etails. d for more


POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS Akademia PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11, tel. 792 887 350, www.pff-warsaw.com, email: academy@ pff-warsaw.com. Akademia PFF offers a wide range of Polish courses for foreigners - individuals and groups. Professional and friendly tutors with effective teaching styles. Edu & More ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok. 81, tel. 22 622 1441, www.eduandmore.com. Business & everyday Polish. Full-time courses and innovative courses of Polish online. Experience, good location & price friendly. Students of full-time courses get online course for free. Klub Dialogu Tel. 664 788 994, www.klubdialogu.pl. Individual and group courses held either onsite or at the venue of your choice. Tailor-made packages inc. both intensive and weekend courses. Modern.edu School of Language Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19 lok.21, tel. 22 881 85 14, biuro@ modern.edu.pl, www.modern. edu.pl. A wide range of Polish classes and customized courses at attractive prices either in small groups or private classes. Schola Polonica ul. Jaracza 3, tel. 22 625 2652, www.schola. pl. Master Polish in a friendly atmosphere. All levels catered for, with groups never going beyond a maximum of five people.

COMMUNITY Expatriates PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11. tel. + 48 792 887 350 www.pff-warsaw.com e-mail: legal@pff-warsaw.comOffers services for foreigners coming to Poland, including obtaining residence and work permits, visas, setting up business activities as well as legal services and support for foreign investors and business entities. For more information call or write: +48 22 828 15 01; + 48 792 887 350, legal@pff-warsaw.co

International Community Center Interdenominational services in English (10:30am, Sunday). Facilities, programs and community activities for all ages: children, students and adults. Contact tel. 607 309 490, roy.taylor@icfwarsaw. org, www.icfwarsaw.org  The Kurt Scheller Academy (D6) Offers top-standard cooking lessons. For more information: ul. Piękna 68, tel. 22 626 8092, akademia@schelleracademy.com.pl. Professionals in Warsaw

Hosts meetings in the city to link up professionals, those new to Warsaw, or those here for the long haul. For more info contact Andy (mob. 691 535 566) or the group page on Facebook. Taste of the Classics A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations. The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English. Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine. For further info: please contact Richard Berkeley: berkeley@fnok.pl or tel. 502 965 353.

WARSAW

World Leader in Implantology and Dental Aesthetics

MALO CLINIC Warsaw is Central Europe's first clinic of the world’s leader in Implantology and Dental Aesthetics, offering full dental care, and above all advanced dental implant surgery. Applying the MALO CLINIC medical protocols with the same quality and consis tency pat– terns defi ned to every clinic in the world, MALO CLINIC Warsaw offers comprehensive treatments. Services Available MALO CLINIC Warsaw provides the best specialists and the latest dia – gnostic equipment (including com– puter tomography), in the field of: • Dental Surgery • Implantology • Aesthetic Prosthetics • Conservative Dentistry • Endodontics • Orthodontics MALO CLINIC Warsaw

Temporary Location ulica Pod Strzechą 7 lok. 12. +48 (0) 516 039 713 warsaw@maloclinics.com

Come meet us and book your appointment +48 (0) 516 039 713 warsaw@maloclinics.com

www.maloclinics.com/polska www.maloclinics.com

International Christian Fellowship & 

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STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

84 Wa rINSIDER s a w I n s| JANUARY i d e r : 0 1 2013 – 3 1 M a r ch 2 0 1 1 76 WARSAW

Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2


classifieds

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WARSAW INTERNATIONS Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’ and connect ex-pats from all walks of life. Covering 300 cities since first forming five years back, the InterNations group has become one of the most successful networking events of the ex-pat calendar. • Monthly Mixers • Online Forums • Guides & City Info For news on the Warsaw chapter, how to join and what events are coming up, find out more about us at: www.internations.org

Tel: +48 22 702 10 72

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Stadion Narodowy


Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

ChoCdhkod łyiaKłyam kieicwzaic BiaB iew Kaiem za ńień


WHY WARSAW?

was a huge ex-pat presence and it felt like every night was a party. In those days there was even a club in a former atomic bomb shelter. All Italians love football and food – what’s your take on Polish football and food? Well, on the football front there’s not much to say… just look at the foolish performance the Polish side produced during Euro 2012. As for the food, well, Poland is a world to explore. Currently we’re seeing a lot of Poles paying attention to the pursuit of quality, and organizations such as the Slow Food movement are growing and promoting the culinary excellence of the backwater territories. But while there’s a lot of Italian restaurants in Warsaw, almost all offer the same rundown of dishes which have been prepared with Polish tastes in mind – not Italian tradition. Even so, there’s a lot of curiosity with regards to learning to cook, how to use various ingredients and in discovering new flavors – that’s why I’m working on opening a cookery school in March. Tell us about the last great meal you had out here? My company Socialkuchnia 3.0, organizes numerous wine tasting and dinner events as well as cookery classes. The last great meal I had was a few days ago at one such gathering: a tasting of exceptional Italian cheeses from the Piedmont region accompanied by wines from the same area.

In Warsaw since 1995, Emiliano Castagna is an ambassador for the InterNations networking group, as well as the man behind Socialkuchnia 3.0. The Insider catches up with him to talk about both. You arrived in Warsaw’s mid-90s cowboy era, what were your first impressions? When I landed I got into a taxi and was told the cost would be the equivalent of what is today zł. 100. After a bit of haggling, I got the price down to zł. 50. Well, a few days later I was headed the opposite direction, called a taxi in advance and was charged zł. 12.50. First lesson learned: always order a cab by phone. Back then I was working in advertising / media, and it felt like all the different firms were just starting up – there

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WARSAW INSIDER | JANUARY 2013

You’re an ‘ambassador’ at the InterNations networking group – tell us more… The whole point of InterNations is to render ex-pats life easier through social integration. Members don’t just enjoy the possibility of swapping tips online, but can also meet both ex-pats and locals in an exclusive international environment as well as during our monthly events. You meet new arrivals all the time – what advice do you have for them? Only a few simple ones, and they apply wherever you live. First, stay positive and be curious. Two, make friends with the natives. Finally, don’t even think about comparing Poland to your home country – of course it’s going to be different. If you don’t want to experience the different, then stay at home! Check what’s cooking with Emiliano at socialkuchnia30 on Facebook, or catch up with him and other likeminded ex-pats at InterNations: www.internations.org

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

THE ITALIAN JOB

Tells us a secret – where’s the best pizza in Warsaw? For me, without a doubt, it’s Non Solo Pizza on Grójecka 28/30. It’s cooked in a proper wood-fired oven – but ask for it well done; pizza should be slightly burnt, believe me.


REVOLUTIONARY SUNDAYS 70/7 On the 7th Day of the week you will pay only 70% of your total bill, every Sunday in any of our 3 dining venues: Parmizzano’s, Champions or Panorama. Reservations: +48 22 630 6306 or mail@marriott.com.pl

WARSAW MARRIOTT HOTEL Jerozolimskie 65/79 00-697 Warsaw WarsawMarriott.pl or WarsawMarriott.com



Warsaw Insider January 2013 #197