Warsaw Insider July 2012 # 191

Trends: Ice Cream page 16

Cycling Warsaw page 20

City Walk Powiśle page 22

Travel: WWII Bunkers

07 (191)

2012

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JULY 2012

The Party’s Over...

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s we readied ourselves to hit the print button on this issue, the Euro 2012 dial was still stuck on the Quarter Final stage. So while it’s premature to conduct an autopsy on a subject that’s still alive and kicking, it seems Poland can reflect on a job well done – off the pitch, at least. Tempting fate we might be, but at this point all the evidence suggests the tournament has been a resounding success. The football has offered drama in heavy duty doses, while outside the stadiums, a rare and positive patriotism has flourished in the streets and bars.

Of course, there have been a few incidents that cast a cloud – for instance, the havoc that flared when Poland met Russia. In fairness to the home nation, one gets the impression that you’d have still needed a butcher’s apron had the game been played on the Moon. Certainly, it could have been a lot worse. Before a ball had even been kicked, the Western media adopted the role of official scaremonger, with the moral panic culminating with footballer Sol Campbell gravely warning Panorama viewers that traveling England fans would ‘return in a coffin’.

Much to the dismay of the undertakers, the anticipated bloodletting never happened; on the contrary, people actually enjoyed themselves – so much so, according to a PBS poll, 81% of foreign fans promise to return to Poland, while an even higher proportion will be recommending it as a holiday destination. As things go, that’s not a bad way to compensate for the meek way Poland exited the tournament.

But enough of the Euro 2012. This July we bring you the latest from the frontline: the hottest openings, the latest news and a spread of features that include a prowl around upcoming Solec, a beginner’s guide to cycling Warsaw and a journey to the heart of darkness – Hitler’s bunker complex in the North East of Poland. Enjoy.

Alex Webber

awebber@valkea.com

on the cover The banners are down and the cleaning crews have moved in. If you missed Euro 2012, then sorry – it really was something. This issue, our cover honors what came before: the biggest street party Poland’s ever seen. Cheers!

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

GREEN GLORIES: WARSAW’S HIDDEN GEMS 1. Park Dreszera

BELWEDERSK

2. Dolina Szwajczarska In the 19th century attractions here included beer stalls, fire eaters, sword swallowers and an ice rink. Today it’s a charming oasis with winding paths, a sunken garden and a fountain featuring a pair of cherubs grappling with turtles and crocs.

CZERNIA

KOWSKA

SKA PUŁAW

PHOTOGRAPH TOP SHUTTERSTOCK. MAP BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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Opened one year prior to WWII, the park was completely destroyed during the Uprising – trees were uprooted for firewood, and the grounds utilized as a cemetery. Following restoration the park is now known for its jazz evenings, and the excellent Zielnik café.

3. Krolikarnia A rambling park filled with the statues and sculptures of Xavery Dunikowski. An 18th century palace built for King Augustus II is the focal point – modeled on Villa Rotonda by Vicenza, it was commonly regarded as a ‘high class brothel’ for Poland’s aristocracy.

4. Ujazdowski Park An elegant 19th century park lined with decorative streetlamps, ponds, alcoves and a bridge designed by English engineer William Lindley – the guy behind Warsaw’s sewage system. Also of note, the swooning statue of Ewe sculpted by Edward Wittig, a onetime student of Rodin.

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what’s inside

JULY 2012

LISTINGS

Culture

Restaurants

Cafes & Wine Bars

Nightlife

FEATURES

Shopping

20 Cycling

A beginner’s guide to Warsaw on

Wheels

Children

Lifestyle

07 I nterview Mika Urbaniak 08 Calendar Music, art and events around town 09 Films

Movie openings 10 Museums Dates and shows 33 I nsider’s Pick Delikatesy Esencja 40 The Luncheonettes

Mezzo 44 Hot Find

Burger Bar

INfront

13 News in Brief

Russia Day riots, when squirrels attack,

Doda exposed, rainbows over Warsaw,

and a law-breaking vicar 16 Trends

Ice cream 24 Relics of the PRL

Trasa Łazienkowska, retro bikes and

Klubokawiarnia Konstytucja

Editor-in-chief

Art Director

Editor

Editorial Intern

Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

22 Take a Street

A look at Solec and Dobra 24 Travel

WWII bunkers in Northern Poland 80 Why Warsaw?

Party promoter, Patryk Burzyński

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Iza Depczyk idepczyk@valkea.com Karolina Kalinowska Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Maria Pięta mpieta@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Bartosz Bajerski Gill Boelman-Burrows Kit F. Chung David Ingham Michał Miszkurka Paula Rewald Agnieszka Le Nart Ed Wight

55 Insider’s Pick

Miasto Cypel 61 Insider’s Pick

Robert Kupisz 65 Insider’s Pick

Museum of Sport &

Tourism 69 Insider’s Pick

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa 77 Classifieds 78 Warsaw Map

Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed with amichalik@valkea.com, tel. 22 678 9912

Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS tel. 022 783-6000

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2012 Warsaw Insider.

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WARSAW INSIDER | JULY 2012

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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51 Insider’s Pick

Dziurka od Klucza

Fully AirConditioned

Le Cedre

Lebanese cuisine

Le Cedre 61

Al. Solidarności 61 · Praga Vis a vis Bears Tel 22 670 11 66

since 1997

www.lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84

Al. Solidarności 84 · Centrum Centrum, Vis a vis Court Tel 22 61 88 999

Reviews: Interview: Mika Urbaniak 7 / Neon Museum 11

CULTURE EVENTS 8 / MUSEUMS & GALLERIES 10 / FILM 9

Interview: Mika Urbaniak

A Rising Star Born and raised in New York City by Polish jazz legends Urszula Dudziak and Michał Urbaniak, Mika Urbaniak is a star in the making. The Insider caught up with Mika to talk about music, life and her recently released album Follow You. BY IZA DEPCZYK You worked with a new producer, Victor Davies, on this album. Why did you decide to change producer, if your last album “Closer” was so successful?

I like taking risks and I like change. Each new collaboration is a chance for me to learn something new about myself as an artist, but also myself as a person.

Which album was a better music making experience for you?

Recording the last album, I wasn’t quite sure of who I wanted to be as an artist. I was more

“led” by my previous producer, which was great at the time when I didn’t really have a clear sense of direction. On this album however, I knew what I wanted and was more aware and more involved with the whole process.

Why did you decide to come to Poland?

It was very spontaneous. Having grown up in New York, I felt like Poland was calling me to learn my roots. Moving here just seemed like the natural thing to do. Initially my plan was to just come here for half a year, but then I ended

up staying. In New York I was playing around with music but it was nothing concrete.

Do you ever regret coming here?

I don’t regret it, but I miss New York. I think the life I have here is good, but one always imagines what it would be like had I stayed back in the City. But everything happens for a reason, so I don’t ever regret choices.

In what ways do you think Poland’s music scene has changed in the past 15 years?

I think the Polish music scene is starting to create its own identity, there’s so much creativity among young artists, people are taking more risks.

Have you always felt comfortable on stage?

It changes with time. I used to be a lot shyer. I always loved performing, but I went through a period in my life when it was really difficult to be on stage for me. When I was a kid I always sang, I always danced, I always performed, it was a natural thing for me to go into music. Everyone always expected me to be a performer. Of course being from a musical family has had an effect on that as well.

What are your favorite places in Warsaw?

I love the whole area around Nowy Świat. I love the aesthetics of it, I love that it has a calmer pace, it’s more relaxed, and chilled and as they say here, “kameralne”.

What do you think are the main differences between Poles and Americans?

In Poland there is a lot more complaining, and also there is this ever-present idea that a lot of things are impossible. Those are things that are very “un-American.” In Poland, however, I feel like relationships are much less superficial than in the States. It’s like here, once you become friends with someone, there is this real loyalty and honesty – that’s sometimes harder to find in the States.

Do you consider Warsaw your home?

I do, but at the same time I have this hunger and urge to travel. Even though I feel comfortable here, sometimes I just feel like I don’t necessarily belong. My home is in my heart and in my head, rather than in a particular country.

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CULTURE soul, 70s rock, but for the most part Polish folk music. Tickets from zł. 20, available on the door.

Throughout July FESTIVAL

International Jazz Festival on the Old Town The 18th edition of Jazz on the Old Town takes place each weekend until August 25. With performances by artists such as the Kylie Eastwood Band, Jeff Lorber Fusion feat. Eric Marenthal, and the Ernie Watts Quartet, this year’s festival offers a comprehensive choice of Latin, mainstream, modern, fusion and smooth jazz.

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FESTIVAL Heineken Open’er Festival Gdynia Since its launch in 2002, the festival has expanded from a one-day gig, to an impressive four day extravaganza, moving from Warsaw to Gdynia in the process. While thus far the line-up is not quite as impressive as years previous, Jamie Woon, Bjork, New Order, Orbital and Bloc Party certainly make it worth going. Tickets from zł. 165, available at www.alterart.pl

rhythm of sensual Kizomba and Salsa. During this year’s festivals, participants also have the chance to learn all the dance moves through workshops with international stars. Ticket prices vary, for details check: www. summersalsa.pl

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CONCERT Elton John & Band ERGO Arena, ul. Gospody 9, Gdańsk Here’s one act that needs no introduction. Rocket man Elton John will perform hits off his latest album, as well as several of the golden oldies. Rumor has it that this is to be Sir Elton’s last concert in Poland! Tickets from zł.

190, available at www.ticketpro.pl

8-29

FESTIVAL

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CONCERT Chłopcy Kontra Basia Dobranocka, ul. Smolna 40 This three-person band, is, according to yours truly, one of the most talented, most original bands which have surfaced on the Polish music scene recently.

Inspiration is taken from jazz,

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FESTIVAL Warsaw Summer Salsa & Kizomba Festival Klub Medyk, ul. Oczki 5, Warsaw Four days of dancing to the

MEDIA PATRONNAGE

7-8, 13-15 FESTIVAL

International Street Art Festival Venues across town The aim of the Street Art Festival is to support the cultural exchange between European countries, through education and history, while also respecting differences and individual identity. Once more, find the festival showcasing abstract, often hilarious, theater plays courtesy of troupes from the Czech Republic, Russia, Belarus, France and Poland. The festival aims to integrate art within the everyday landscape of the city: on squares, in subway passages, stadiums, and parks. For more info, check: www.sztukaulicy.pl.

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WARSAW INSIDER | JULY 2012

Warsaw Summer Jazz Days Sala Kongresowa, SOHO Factory, Jazzarium Cafe The event promotes contemporary jazz music through hosting Polish and international modern jazz stars. Highlights include Melody Gardot, the Grammynominated American singer, song writer and musician, who’s silky, soothing voice, presents pure pleasure. Also scheduled to appear are the Marcin Wasilewski Trio, Ralph Alessi, Jim Black, Mark Helias, Herbie Hancock and many more. For a full list of events, and to purchase tickets log on to www.adamiakjazz.pl.

Tickets from zł. 50.

madness. Amazonia proposes a third option, one which means taking life with a pinch of salt, and a smile on your face. English subtitles. Tickets from zł. 66, available at www.ebilet.pl

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FESTIVAL Ultra Music Festival Służewiec, Warsaw Ultra Music Festival is spreading out from Miami; this year it entails events in six different countries, including (surprisingly?!) Poland – and yes, the line-up is hot! Expect performances by Tiesto, Benny Benasi, Afrojack, Martin Solveig, Indecent Noise and many more. Tickets from zł.

450, available at www.ftb.pl

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CONCERT Marilyn Manson Stodoła, ul. Stefana Batorego 10 Famous for stirring up controversy wherever he goes, this American performer is here to promote his newest album Born Villain.

Marilyn Manson is known for his mad, sometimes grotesque performances, so it’s definitely not an event for the light-headed.

Tickets from zł.187, available at www.livenation.pl

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THEATER Amazonia Teatr Na Woli, ul. Kasprzaka 22 A comedy which depicts the clash between dreams and reality. The play’s protagonists are artists fighting a feeling of unfulfillment, and who escape either to a world of money and consumerism, or who move towards artistic radicalism and

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CONCERT George Benson Torwar, Warsaw This American music legend is a ten time Grammy winner. Tickets from zł. 100, available at www. ticketpro.pl

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF ARTISTS OR ORGIANIZERS

EVENTS THIS MONTH

20-21

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Positive Vibrations Festival Pałac Branickich, Białystok The idea of creating this festival sprang from the CD compilation titled “Positive Vibrations”, regarded as one the most interesting CDs produced in Poland. This year we can share good vibrations with Ben L’Oncle Soul, Omar as well as Angie Stone, who recently confirmed her attendance at the festival.

Tickets from zł. 45, available at www.eventim.pl

Impact Fest Lotnisko Bemowo Let the lineup speak for itself: Red Hot Chili Peppers, Kasabian, Public Image Ltd, Marlon Roudette, The Charlatans, The Vaccines, I Blame Coco and Power of Trinity are all slated to perform in what promises to be an unforgettable festival.

Tickets from zł. 209, available at www.eventim.pl

FESTIVAL

FESTIVAL

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THEATER PLAY

Our Class (Nasza Klasa) Teatr Na Woli, ul. Kasprzaka 22 Our Class (Nasza Klasa) is an extraordinary tale of a class of students. Together they read Henryk Sienkiewicz’s trilogy, watch Charlie Chaplin movies, listen to jazz and all other normal adolescent stuff… Until one day one of the boys ties up one of the girls and threatens to kill her! Suddenly, nationality, religion, ideology become more important than friendship.

Inspired by true events, this superb production comes with English subtitles.

27-29

FESTIVAL Audioriver Płock The Audioriver Festival is a threeday-long, international event, the purpose of which is promoting all that is best in alternative music, with an emphasis on electronica.

MOVIES OPENING THIS MONTH 4 July

A Few Best Men Comedy. Australia. Dir. Stephan Elliott, with Xavier Samuel, Olivia Newton-John, Kevin Bishop, Kris Marshall

The Amazing Spiderman (Niesamowity Spiderman) Action/Sci-Fi. USA. Dir. Marc Webb, with Emma Stone, Andrew Garfield, Rhys Ifans, Martin Sheen

Magic Mike Comedy/Bio. USA. Dir. Steven Soderbergh, with Alex Pettyfer, Channing Tatum, Matthew McConaughey

6 July

Sleep Tight (Słodkich Snów) Thriller. Spain. Dir. Jaume Balaguero, with Luis Tosar, Marta Etura, Alberto San Juan

Ice Age: Continental Drift (Epoka Lodowcowa: Wędrówka Kontynentów) Family/Animation. USA. Dir. Steve Martino, Mike Thurmeier, with Queen Latifah, Denis Leary, Jennifer Lopez

Ballroom Dancer (Mistrz Tańca Powraca) Documentary. Dir. Christian Holten Bonke, Andreas Koefoed

13 July

21 Jump Street Action/Comedy. USA. Dir. Phil Lord, Chris Miller, with Jonah Hill, Channing Tatum

20 July

Prometheus Horror/Action/Sci-Fi. USA. Dir. Ridley Scott, with Noomi Repace, Michael Fassbender, Charlize Theron

Memories of My Melancholy Whores (Rzecz o mych smutnych dziwkach) Drama. Denmark/Spain/USA/ Mexico. Dir. Henning Carlsen, with Emilio Echevarria, Angela Molina, Dominika Paleta, Alejandra Barros

27 July

The Dark Knight Rises Action/Sci-Fi. Great Britain/ USA. Dir. Christopher Nolan, with Christian Bale, Anne Hathaway, Gary Oldman, Morgan Freeman, Liam Neeson, Michael Caine

ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFFIC, GET ON THE OPEN ROAD AND EXPLORE POLAND WITH GREAT CAR RENTAL OFFER. Contact: +48 22 572 65 65 www.avis.pl

reklama W_INSAIDER_05_2012_v2.indd 1

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2012-05-18 11:19:37 facebook.com/warsawinsider

CULTURE MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Apteka Sztuki Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5, www. aptekasztuki.eu Ongoing until July 15: Kontratak – a collection of paintings by 11 different painters. The theme revolves around sport, and football in particular.

Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel. 22 758 5067, www.muzeum-motoryzacji.com.pl Approx. 300 vehicles all jumbled together like a broken jigsaw.

Highlights include the ’79 Pope Mobile, Stalin’s limo and cars used to ferry Marilyn and Elvis.

Other bits and pieces inc. vintage motors, a double decker bus and a US tractor from 1895. Mapped out with little rhyme or reason, it’s a hoarders heaven, with extra oddities numbering WWII debris, a 7TP tank, a red English phone box and a plane... Don’t make sense of it, just enjoy.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www.kopernik.org.pl If you thought the Chopin Museum was space age then

just wait till you visit this place.

Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. Ongoing through July, Discoverer’s Park: each weekend join in Tai Chi and Pilates classes, play board games and enjoy the outdoor cinema. From 5 July, find a new open-air exhibition alongside the Wisła.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Flor Garduno, for instance). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Till 19 August: Harun Farocki, a retrospective film exhibition.

Till 26 August: Figures from the New World, sculpture exhibition.

Ongoing till 12 August: Project Transfer presents the work of five Ukrainian artists whose work will be displayed for two weeks each (from 2 July-15 July Lada Nakonechna, 16 July-19 July Nikita Kadan, 30 July-12 August Volodymyr Kuznetzov).

Till 23 September: My Very Own Cinema, a retrospective exhibition featuring the multimedia

works of Józef Robakowski, one of the leading neo avant garde artists of the 60s and 70s.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl A huge Insider favorite, the History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’

It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion – not least for the fab bookshop. While most titles are Polish language, there’s some fantastic photo books dealing with Warsaw’s past.

Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.mhw.pl The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film titled We Will Remember, it details the powerful story behind the destruction of Warsaw.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw

Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, www.chopin.museum.pl Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask. Throughout July: visit the concert room in the Museum for live recitals each Thursday at 18:00.

The Great Football Exhibition Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 Aside from a seemingly random collection of shirts, pennants and scarves, the ‘great’ exhibition features such enigmatic plunder as ‘a plate with engraved signatures’, ‘a cup from the fans of Cambridge’, and, this is the best bit, ‘a shoe from the Croatian F.A., 2008’. No further explanations, nothing. Mystifying treasures aside, there’s a foosball table and a scattering of X-Box machines, not all of which are broken. Runs until 30 October.

Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113a, www.krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. After, check the sculptures set around the palace gardens. Ongoing: Skontrum: a collection of sculpture without titles or dates.

The idea is for viewers to form their own narrative.

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com One for the lads. Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight).

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WARSAW INSIDER | JULY 2012

Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide the visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Miroslaw Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski. Ongoing until 19 August: New National Art: this exhibition focuses on the study of national-patriotic visual culture in Poland.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl Celebrating its 150th birthday, the National Museum opened for business on the Night of Museums following a thorough refit. Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Ongoing till 23 September: The Dignified – from the Pharaohs to Lady Gaga, is a great exhibition dedicated to the ‘iconography of power’.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister

function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site.

Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Of interest, a brilliant interactive display of wartime Warsaw.

Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16 With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol.

Ongoing until 16 September, the 23rd International Poster Biennale. The four categories inc. social, cultural and advertising posters, as well as ‘golden debut’. View the works not only at the Poster Museums, but also in other Warsaw cultural spots.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, www.muzeum-techniki.waw.pl The very opposite of the newfangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine.

Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising. Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw.

Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl One of the most famed galleries in the country, with a plethora of international and Polish modern art to peruse. Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera.

Until 28 August: Art Everywhere: showcasing the history of the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw, this exhibition aims to highlight

that art really can be found everywhere – in shop displays, on matchboxes, at home etc.

NEED TO KNOW Museum hours (and prices) change way too frequently for our liking, so check indiviudal websites for the latest story. Note that many of these addresses close one day per week (usually Monday or Tuesday), and that an equal amount hold ‘visitor’ days once a week when admission prices are waived.

Insider’s Pick The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www.neonmuzeum.org

O

pened, after months of delays, in time for the Night of Museums, this long-awaited project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated this city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, and over 400 letters, many of which will need no introduction to long term residents: purveyors of tourist tat Cepelia, the unforgettably seedy Szanghaj restaurant on Marszałkowska, the cult café Jaś i Małgosia and the Orbis globe are just some of the more familiar sights. Pride of place though, according to photographer and curator Ilona Karwińska, goes to the ‘Berlin’ neon which once stood by pl.

Zbawiciela. Dating from 1974, it was the first neon acquired by the museum.

But while Warsaw’s first neon can be traced to the late 1920s, the emphasis in this museum lies firmly on the Cold War, PRL era. “Many of the signs made during the boom of the 60s and 70s were created by the best architects and graphic designers,” says Karwińśka. “The signs became highly visible landmarks with a local aesthetic, and in turn were embraced by the public as an important part of the country’s social fabric. My project is dedicated to the many designers, draftsmen and neon makers of this extraordinary time – this is their story.”

Since 2005 Karwińska has been ‘hunting’ neon signs across Poland, and the museum – set inside the dramatic, industrial confines of Soho Factory – is still very much a work in progress; signs are being added all the time, with new arrivals including Katowice train platform markers, and the elegant typography that once announced Hotel Saski on pl. Bankowy. A complete departure from the standard museum experience, here’s a place that’s just not to be missed.

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A graduate of the prestigous Westminster College London, Botswanan born Joseph Seeletso needs little introduction. A frequent fixture on Good Morning TVN, the celebrity chef opened Joseph’s last year, thereby achieving his ambition of having his own private space to create “heavenly combinations” of meals and wine.

Set in a former warehouse, the cosmopolitan Joseph’s is the effortless epitome of ‘loft cool’, and has taken Warsaw by storm with a non-standard menu that reflects Chef Seeletso’s creativity. And it’s not just the level of Polish gastronomy that has been raised with the success of Joseph’s.

Wine plays an equally key role, with sommelier Rafał Kiś on hand to aid with your wine choice.

• A MASTERFUL MENU CREATED BY CHEF JOSEPH • COOKERY CLASSES WITH JOSEPH SEELETSO • 700 WINE LABELS • WINE TASTING CLASSES WITH A QUALIFIED SOMMELIER • ON-SITE SHOP • LOYALTY PROGRAM Duchnicka 3 Street 01-796, Warszawa mob. 48 501 491 396, tel. 48 22 320 2988 duchnicka@josephwinebar.pl www.kuchniajozka.pl www.josephwinebar.pl

INFRONT ANIMALS 14 / BIZARRE 14 / CITY 14 / EURO 2012 13 / PRL 18 / RELIGION 14 / QUOTE 16 / TRENDS 16

PHOTOGRAPH BY TOMASZ BIDERMANN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

EURO 2012

Russian March Ends in Chaos Warsaw hit world headlines in June after running battles erupted between Polish and Russian fans prior to the two teams meeting on the football field. Around 6,000 police officers had been drafted in to maintain order, but were unable to keep bad blood from simmering to the surface. “Missiles were flying all over the place,” said one terrified Insider, “and I saw several people lying motionless on the ground.” Another spoke of Russian supporters hiding under stationary trams in an effort to escape the violence.

While Gazeta Wyborcza printed a full page apology the next day directed at innocent Russians caught up in the battle, others were less sympathetic. One Pole we spoke to, who identified himself as a Legia supporter, lay the blame squarely on the decision to allow a 5,000 strong parade of Russians to cross Most Poniatowskiego to celebrate Russia Day. “The march shouldn’t have happened,” claimed the masked nutter, “it was a clear case of provocation.” Wojciech Wiśniewski of the Polish Union of Football Fans was equally indifferent: “Somebody really wants to make Polish football fans attack the Russians.” As the march neared the stadium, further carnage ensued with police firing rubber bullets, water cannon and tear gas as rival hooligans engaged in a sinister reenactment of the Battle of Warsaw.

Traditional flames of historical hatred had been fanned in the lead-up to the match, with one Russian tabloid revealing supporters had planned to unveil a banner celebrating the Smolensk air disaster, as well as pelting the pitch with paper planes during the Polish anthem.

Neither happened, though a giant flag proclaiming ‘This is Russia’ added to the antagonistic atmosphere. Putting the dampeners on an otherwise successful tournament, the day saw 184 detained, and 21 requiring hospital treatment.

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INFRONT

BRIEFING

CITY

ANIMALS

Warsaw natives were faced with a colorful surprise in June when they woke to find a giant rainbow arcing directly over hipster heaven pl. Zbawiciela. Making use of 16,000 fake flowers, the installation is the brainwave of Julita Wójcik, who proudly claims it represents ‘your freedom and ours’. Originally unveiled in Brussels, the rainbow will remain in Warsaw till the end of August.

Park officials planning to chop down woodlands thought they were going nutty when they were attacked by a furry-ous squirrel.

Pen pushers in Białystok were deciding which trees to fell when the tufty terror leapt into their office through an open window and destroyed all their paperwork.“If I didn’t know better, I’d think he'd overheard us planning to cut his trees down,” said one official. Wildlife experts eventually trapped the nutty beast and returned him to the nearby woods.

RELIGION

Hell’s Bells A priest from the village of Lewin is in hot, holy water after a bell system he installed pushed the faith of his parishioners to the limit. Father Andrzej Wróbel’s high-tech soundtrack included regular gongs and chimes, as well as a hymn blasted out at 1.30 a.m. After repeated warnings to curb his crusade, the shamed priest has been handed 30hrs community service for violating the peace.

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Furry-Ous Nutter

BIZARRE

Bust Joking!

Doda fans were over the moon when a comically curvy statue of the singer was unveiled in her home town, Ciechanów. The 5ft erection was the creation of Marek Zalewski who is also behind statues of Pope John Paul II and St. Peter. One Doda fan said: “The monument is excellent and shows her angles off perfectly. It’s just a pity it won’t stay up longer – story of my life.”

The busty bust was later revealed to be a TV prank and removed from the site.

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT KEVIN DEMARIA, SHUTTERSTOCK (2), POLSKA AGENCJA FOTOGRAFICZNA STUDIO69

Over the Rainbow

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INFRONT

TRENDS

BY KIT F. CHUNG

Flavor of the Month

Salmon ice cream, did you say? Yes, and there’s also potato, basil with lemon, beetroot and tomato flavours. But don’t say “yuck” just yet...

L

an agreeable dill, I scarfed down the piwne (beer). The carrot scoop was winning and tasted so healthy that it knocked all the guilt out of indulgence.

Others are also dabbling in far out ice creams. At Restaurant Tamka43, beetroot and carrot are in the beenthere-done-with-that domain. Green pea and pine shoots are the current preference of head chef Robert Trzópek.

At Atelier Amaro, Poland’s version of El Bulli, the novelty accents include juniper berry. For the nougat and blue cheese combo, make your way to Joseph’s Wine & Food.

ICE CREAM SHOPS

Atelier Amaro ul. Agrykola 1 Joseph’s Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3 Limoni ul. Nowy Świat 52; ul. Różana 47; ul. Stanisława Augusta 81.

Tamka43 ul. Tamka 43

PHOTOGRAPH BY SHUTTERSTOCK

uca Pistidda, the manager of Limoni, claims these oddballs are selling like hot cakes. “Our customers call up to enquire if we have them in stock,” adds the Italian. Be that as it may, it still begs the question of what in the world makes any seemingly sane person think of adding oscypek (sheep’s milk cheese from the Tatry Mountains) into perfectly good cream? Luca laughs amiably but admits that he’s been pleasantly surprised by the reception his unconventional creations have received. Back in his conservative homeland, quirky gelato were made only for special events. And when eccentric flavors from Germany and the UK were pushed onto the public, the audience didn’t bite… or lick.

“Our ice creams are artisanal, homemade without chemicals. We use fresh vegetables and fruits. And we source from the best in Europe if we can’t get them in Poland,” Luca proudly announces. Encouraged by such

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INFRONT

PRL PAGE (’52-’89)

Stretching eight kilometers in length, Trasa Łazienkowska was the first ‘urban expressway’ in Poland, and breathlessly promoted as evidence of the futuristic socialist vision. “We are building the capital of our dreams and ambitions,” proclaimed one proud banner. Opened on 22 July, 1974, thousands of spectators gathered to cheer First Secretary Gierek and Soviet supremo Leonid Brezhnev officially open the highway. Roads this snazzy had not been built in Poland before, and as such it became a standard part of the route carrying foreign dignitaries arriving from the airport – thousands came here to wave at President Gerald Ford, and even more when Pope John Paul II was driven down here on his first papal visit to Poland. Famously, somewhat, a delivery van was hastily transformed into a popemobile to carry the pontiff.

Touting such features as Warsaw’s first covered bus shelter and aluminum rails (the majority of which were pinched by thieves following communisms collapse), this was, frankly, so much more than a road – it was a tourist attraction! In the boom years of the mid-70’s, the state approved travel agency Orbis included Trasa Łazienkowska on its open top bus tours. Having starred in countless PRL era films and shows (Miś, Czterdziestolatek), the Trasa Łazienkowska of today remains a curiosity. While the fetid underpasses smell like a rock festival toilet, they’re well worth a look; in recent years, the grey concrete walls have become the canvas of choice for Warsaw’s urban artists and budding young Bank-ski’s. (AW)

RE-CYCLED STYLE ONCE THE TWO-WHEELERS OF NO-CHOICE, THE ROMET WIGRY IS MAKING A COMEBACK. PRODUCED IN AN ERA WHEN STUFF WAS BUILT-TOLAST, THE ORIGINAL SKŁADAKS (POLISH FOR FOLDABLE BIKES) IN SHADES OF ORANGE, RED OR BLUE, ARE STILL CRANKING ALONG. THEY’RE NO SPEED FIENDS BUT GO AT A LEISURELY CRUISING TEMPO FOR PEOPLE WATCHING. THE COMPANY THAT MADE THEM CLOSED SHOP IN 1989, BUT REMAKES BY THE ARKUS AND ROMET GROUP HAVE KEPT THE LOOKS, SHOOK OFF THE EXCESS KILOS AND FITTED IN UPDATED MECHANICS. (KC)

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PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP: AGENCJA FORUM, KEVIN DEMARIA, KIT F. CHUNG

On the Road

Occasionally known as ‘the propaganda district’, pl. Konstytucji is where commie town planners went totally bananas and let idealism run mad. Built as a showpiece district for well-behaved, teacher’s pet communists, the Orwellian nightmare has been described, by one critic, as “a stone wedding cake covered with balconies built of boulders.” And indeed, it does put the mental into monumental. Taking advantage of this backdrop is Klubokawiarnia Konstytucja (pl. Konstytucji 4), a red bathed café with clever cartoon murals inspired by the peoples republic. No alcohol license yet, but you can bring your own to toast all that art. (AW)

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Prices start from: zł. 1,599 Take a test-ride: www.electrabicycle.pl

ON THE RIGHT PATH

You won’t find Warsaw compared to Amsterdam, but even so, more and more novices are trading horsepower for pedal power. BY AGNIESZKA LENART

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

CYCLING

hen the editor suggested I write about my experiences cycling around Warsaw I outright refused: I’m the last person in this city to give advice about getting around on two wheels. I love riding my bicycle, but I’ll admit I’m not very good at it. I’m not that person who’s trudging ten kilometers through the center to Kabaty to hit those snazzy bicycle trails they’ve got out there. I’m more of a city cyclist, cautiously peddling around Mokotów, Powiśle and Żoliborz, with more than my share of bumps and near-misses.

But my editor cut me off in the midst of my protest to tell me that’s exactly the sort of story – and cyclist – he was looking for. Well then, I have no other choice than to deliver my tale of truly amateur cycling. And yes, expect a whole lot of complaining, too, because I’m sure the first thing most people will rush up to tell me is that Warsaw’s got a pretty good setup for bicycle lanes and that should solve most of my issues. That’s true up to a point – a girl will be blissfully gliding along that bicycle trail without a care in the world, delighted that those pesky pedestrians are finally out of her way when, out of the blue, one such pest will decide the pavement just isn’t good enough and strays onto the maroon-tinted lane reserved for twowheelers. My hand-eye coordination isn’t so functional to allow me to both steer my bicycle and ring the bell simultaneously so my only option is to hit the brakes and slowly circumvent the guilty party, giving them a good dose of evil eye in the process.

Then there’s the issue of continuity. Once again, I’m cycling along carefree, say along Marszałkowska and all of a sudden the bicycle lane just cuts off. Just like that! Without any warning! And so I find myself bound once again to the pavement and the sneers of the public. The worst of it is that the places where you need a bicycle lane the most (the environs of the Palace of Culture and Central Station, Jerozolimskie, Nowy Świat) have not a hint of bicycle lane.

Nothing. Instead it’s a choice between braving the crowds of central Warsaw or risking your physical health amid the traffic. Needless to say I opt for the former, which usually ends up with me stopping short of running some war veterans over into the curb. Finally, I give up and just walk my bike down the block until I’m in a more accommodating environment.

Most of my troubles stem from the fact that I didn’t learn to ride a bicycle as a child. So I’m pretty proud that at the age of 30-something I got it together and mustered the determination to teach myself to ride a bike. It was a ridiculous sight, my whole family will tell you. I decided the safest place for such a potentially dangerous endeavor was our family’s działka (country house) about three hours from Warsaw. There we have miles of sprawling fields and dirt roads – and, thankfully, very few pedestrians as they’re all barbecuing ribs in their backyards. At first my efforts were quite tragic. After an hour of futile tries, falls and fails, I headed back to the house to take a rest and have a few sips of Żywiec (no, not the water). So, I got back on the bike and suddenly I was a bit braver and my balance a bit, well, more balanced. Another hour or so later and I was making ground. And boy, wasn’t it the best feeling in the world: I never realized the absolute rush of freedom that cycling can give. At last, I was part of the club.

That was about three years ago. In the meantime I took

“ AND BOY, WASN’T IT THE BEST

FEELING IN THE WORLD: I NEVER REALIZED THE ABSOLUTE RUSH OF FREEDOM THAT CYCLING CAN GIVE

”

other opportunities to practice my cycling skills but it seemed the rule about learning to ride a bike once is a lifetime guarantee that you’ll never forget doesn’t altogether apply to me. But I was determined once again to join the cycling ranks, and realized the first step in doing so was to purchase my own set of wheels. I deliberated for weeks.

Finally, one fine summer day in 2011, a guy I rather fancied invited me to take a walk around Powiśle. Yes, it was sort of like a date (okay, it was a date). Anyway, I confided in Radek about my secret wish for a bicycle and lo-andbehold we stumbled upon a makeshift bicycle market along the river, just by the Cud nad Wisłą beach bar.

We fondled all the bikes, measured them up and down, squinting our eyes and rubbing our chins. I just want something really simple, I explained, but somehow I kept veering towards the pink-spangled bikes that really only a six-year-old should ride. Eventually we settled on a silverish Gazelle and I gave it a test run. It was pretty heavy, slightly clunky, but it felt right. It felt like the bike I’d always wanted. The price was a bit steep - 600 zees for what was essentially a museum artifact, but there was no way I was going to backtrack. Plus Radek was so involved in the matter that he sort of felt it was his duty to get me that bicycle. And so, my cycling adventure began.

One year later I’m back on my bike having neglected my good old Gazelle over the entire winter. I got her tweaked at the bike shop on Widok in the spring and now I’m speeding my way through the city, mainly sticking to the broad avenues of Niepodległości, the trails of Pole Mokotowskie and the smooth, but relatively brief bike lane along Łazienki Park at Al. Ujazdowskie. Warsaw by bicycle is beautiful indeed and there’s no better or cleaner way to get where you need to go – just watch out for those pedestrians!

TRAINING WHEELS

• A helmet is advised, not required • Same booze laws apply for cycling as they do driving: that’s less than a beer!

• If you’re over the limit, you face a fine, or up to a year in jail • Walking with your bike while drunk is not an offence • It’s a law that’s widely ignored, but in general you can only cycle on the sidewalk if: you’re with a child whose ten years or younger, traffic is travelling at more than 50km/hr, the sidewalk is more than two meters wide, or the weather is threatening: that means strong wind, snow, black ice or fog • Join novices and professionals alike for the Critical Mass bike ride across town. It starts out on Pl. Zamkowy on the last Friday of the month. Be there 6 p.m. sharp!

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TAKE A STREET SOLEC/DOBRA

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1500m2 Cech Czuły Barbarzyńca Księgarnia Historyczna Le Pukka Concept Store Love & Trade Mr Pancake Pola La Reykjavik District Royal With Cheese SAM Solec 44 Sto900 Piaskownica

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PROWLING POWIŚLE Once grey, grim and grotty, in recent times, Powiśle has been touched by angels. The Praga district had its day in the sun a few years back – now though, it’s this area that is in the ascent. BY IZA DEPCZYK

LIVING Cech ul. Solec 18/20 Occupying the underground section of the 1500m2 club, Cech offer the chance to make your own bike – or, rather, bring pieces that you’d like used to have your bike made for you. A one-of-a-kind bike store.

Le Pukka Concept Store ul. Solec 58/60 If you are looking for interior design inspirations, or just want to refresh your home with some quirky, modern furnishings check out Le Pukka. Here you will find an abundance of original furniture pieces, as well as decorations and gadgets for your home from designers like Area DeClic, Kubikoff, Kimmidolls and Slide Design.

Księgarnia Historyczna ul. Dobra 5 A history bookstore, with English titles, as well as picture albums which require little linguistic talent. The focus heavily favors military interest.

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shop. The difference here is the coffee shop itself has an amazing interior and a unique ambiance in which you want to hang around in. Yes, yes: they do have books in English.

Mr Pancake ul. Solec 50 Mr Pancake offers a wide choice of chubby American-style pancakes, thin French crepes, or the in-between Polish naleśniki, which come both sweet or savory. Hip interior and music create a unique ambiance which offset the lack of WC facilities.

FASHION Love&Trade ul. Solec 18/20 Touting a raw, industrial design, this boutique offers bespoke fashion for all events.

Representing the new face of Polish design, don’t anticipate any dull pieces.

Pola La ul. Solec 85 One for the ladies. Pola La has some of the loveliest, most original leather bags you’ll see around Warsaw. And though they don’t come cheap (ave. price per bag is around zł. 1,500), they are soooo worth it when you consider that they’re hand made, and they can actually help design your very own bag.

Reykjavik District ul. Solec 18/20 Launched by upcoming Icelandic designer Olly Lindal, Reykjavik District has been one of the success stories of 2012. This artsy looking boutique has already found favor with the stars – find it upstairs from the 1500m2 courtyard.

Royal With Cheese ul. Solec 50 Another one of those cool, hip places where you can get your shirt dry cleaned, or buy a designer jacket made of recycled goods.

Owner Ola Andrykowicz designs dresses, coats, accessories, as well as set costumes. A dry-cleaner turned designer studio, it’s worth checking out even if just to look at the funky window display.

FOOD, DRINK & NIGHTLIFE 1500m2 ul. Solec 18/20 Set in a former printing factory, 1500m2 has been central to the rise of Powiśle. Find an industrial space whose events range from arty weekend flea markets, to teeth shattering club nights attracting niche DJs from Europe and beyond.

Czuły Barbarzyńca ul. Dobra 31 Follows the concept of an American Barnes & Noble where you can order coffee and read books from the bookstore inside the coffee

SAM ul. Lipowa 7a A newbie on the Warsaw bistro scene, and so far so good. If you are into quality bread, coffee and cheese, or enjoy swanning around places like Charlotte, then you’re going to to want to check this. With mains marked around zł. 20, neither is it expensive.

Solec 44 ul. Solec 44 A trendy hangout popular with hipsters and overgrown kids – find them making use of the board games and puzzles while enjoying a menu that incorporates plenty of green, healthy ingredients.

Sto900 ul. Solec 18/20 Bar, restaurant, cafe and hangout, the entrance here is marked with crates of fruit and veg that announce to the world ‘we only buy fresh’. Set with creaking floors and mismatched furniture, it fits in perfectly with the artistic bent of this graffiti coated courtyard.

Piaskownica ul. Lipowa 7 During the day it’s a coffee bar; come nightfall and it gets overhauled as a bar. Popular with college kids, find announcements like ‘Tofu Attack’ scrawled on the blackboards.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY AGNIESZKA PIEPRZOWSKA

TRAVEL BUNKERS OF NORTHERN POLAND

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IN THE HEART OF

DARKNESS

Usually celebrated for its virgin lakes and magnificent forests, modern history casts a sinister shadow over the Mazurian district. BY ALEX WEBBER

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I

’m used to waking up to the sound of endless banging, but that’s usually my head going ding, dang, disco after a night on the tiles. This time, however, I blame Barbara Zdunk. Barbara, if you don’t know, was the last European barbecued for witchcraft, and today you’ll find banshee Basia rattling round the corridors of Reszel Castle – paying spontaneous visits to passing guests such as myself.

Surprises don’t usually come much bigger than a ghost, but for my girlfriend they did; having driven me up to this spooky castle/hotel, she thought that was the hard part over. How wrong. I’ve been visiting Reszel for years, but my reasons for staying are masked by ulterior motives.

While some people visit this neck of the woods to partake in sailing and kayaking, horse riding and hiking, I see this north easterly corner of Poland as something else – the home of a dark and sinister history. And that’s what we’d come to explore…

WOLF’S LAIR

Some associate Hitler with Berlin and the Berghof, with Nuremberg and Munich. But it’s here, in the remote forests of Mazury, that many major decisions – as monstrous as they were momentous – were taken by the Fuhrer and his acolytes. Set 8km east of Kętrzyn, Hitler’s wartime HQ is the ultimate fascist folly. Visited annually by 200,000 people, its colossal ruins pass a powerful indictment on a criminal regime.

With Germany and the Soviet Union squaring up for war, construction on an eastern command post was initiated in the summer of 1940 on Hitler’s bequest. Penned in by woodland and swamps, the Gierłoż forest afforded plenty of natural protection, and over the next few months Organization Todt, the Third Reich’s engineering group, set about constructing a series of above-ground bunkers for the Nazi hierarchy. Finally, two days following the 1941 invasion of the Soviet Union, Hitler arrived to his new quarters on board his fortified train, the Amerika. So named after his puerile party codename, Mr Wolf, Hitler would spend approximately 900 days in the Wolfsschanze (Wolf’s Lair).

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RESZEL WOLF'S LAIR MINIATURE PARK SZTYNORT POZEZDRZE WĘGORZEWO LEŚNIEWO GÓRNE MAMERKI

Previous page left: One of many bunkers found hiding in the forests of Mamerki; right: peering inside the Wolf's Lair complex

For prospective visitors, two choices await – to retain independence and ad lib a route, or to book a guide for the full inside tip. If you haven’t visited before, then I recommend the latter. Countless guides tout their services, but through trial and error there’s really one worth the booking: local woman Jadwiga Korowaj (tel. 601 677 202).

“People ask me why the Wolf’s Lair was never bombed by the Allies,” begins the peerless Korowaj, “and it’s a good question. When it was being built this complex was disguised as the Askania chemical factory, but even so, the locals soon knew what was really going on here – at one point during the war, local children were invited up here for Hitler’s birthday party and celebrated with him over biscuits and cola!”

It’s clear that the Allies knew as to the existence of Wolf’s Lair as early as 1943, though for reasons that remain classified an assault was never launched. “Some speculate the presence of Allied spies here prevented an attack,” says Korowaj, “though it’s also worth remembering they wanted more than just the death of Hitler.” A weakened German state was of little interest – the Allies, and Stalin in particular, wanted total victory and the spoils that came with it.

But what the Allies weren’t prepared to do, some Germans were. On 20 July, 1944, Claus von Stauffenberg left a bomb during a situation conference, before hurriedly departing for a plane to Berlin. Hitler survived the resulting explosion through extraordinary luck, and the coup that followed was efficiently extinguished. Today, what remains of the shattered brick conference room features a plaque honoring those involved in the conspiracy.

Of course, even had the Allies launched an attack, they’d have been counting quite a cost. Protected by overhead camouflage and 54,000 mines, a garrison of 1,500 elite soldiers kept guard over Hitler. And life wasn’t necessarily easy for all those here. “Mosquitoes made life a nightmare,” begins Korowaj, “so at one stage oil was poured over the swamps in an effort to kill them.” Hitler, who doted on animals, was far from pleased. “He loved the nighttime croaking of the frogs. They all died after this, so

batches of new ones were brought in especially for him!”

Described by General Jodl as, “half monastery, half concentration camp,” Albert Speer reveals more about day-to-day life in his post-war memoirs. “It was a stale, hermetic existence,” wrote Hitler’s fawning pet architect, “Hitler’s room stressed sparseness, and he’d even renounced the comfort of an upholstered chair… The teahouse was a pleasant change from the drabness. Here we occasionally met for a glass of Vermouth, as Field Marshalls waited before conferring with Hitler.”

“He also likened Hitler’s bunker to an ancient Egyptian tomb,” adds Korowaj, and approaching it it’s easy to see why. Featuring walls up to eight meters thick, it doesn’t take a crack pipe to imagine Hitler stewing while separated from the world, lost in his delusions.

With the Red Army drawing near, Hitler left Wolf’s Lair for the last time on 20 November, 1944. On 24 January, 1945, orders were issued to destroy what remained – using five to six tons of TNT per bunker, German sappers set about erasing the complex.

But their efforts weren’t entirely successful. Moss-clad, and with trees sprouting off them, the bunkers lie like the jagged, broken pieces of a giant, concrete jigsaw. Clambering over them, one thinks of Shelley’s poem Ozymandias: “Half sunk, a shattered visage lies…” Disturbingly, in Hitler’s bunker, I note that someone has left a candle. I ask Korowaj if this is seen as a place of pilgrimage by neonazis. “I don’t think so,” she replies, “we had a few turn up many, many years back, but they were clearly told that they don’t belong here. People need to see this as a museum to a bad time.”

With these words in mind, I’m a bit startled when two chaps dressed in Wehrmacht uniform come into sight.

Before I have time to question their parentage, I read a sign standing by them. They are, it turns out, highly affable historians with their own little stand displaying wartime relics: among them, Nazi pornography and a grim looking condom. Even so, my girlfriend notes, it seems a little perplexing.

WHERE TO STAY Reszel Castle www.zamek-reszel.com. Find this dramatic Gothic castle balanced on a rocky outcrop, casting a heavy shadow over the compact old town. A favored ‘art retreat’ among Poland’s intelligentsia, rooms – some of them set in medieval towers – come scattered with the owner’s carvings, offsetting the tamer IKEA effects.

Ksieżycowy Dworek Gierłoz 2, www.ksiezycowydworek.pl. Locals claim Hitler conducted secret trysts with Eva Braun in this pretty manor, though those with deeper historical knowledge reject this out-of-hand.

Now a hotel, KD offers a theatrical, almost whimsical style in lodgings that are walking distance from Wolf’s Lair.

Wilcze Gniazdo Gierłoż, www.wolfsschanze.pl. A bare bones hotel found onsite at Wolf’s Lair. Once used by Hitler’s bodyguards, this place now functions as a spartan looking hotel. According to a recent episode of Ghost Hunters International, Room 7 is haunted by a female American spy who infiltrated the base in wartime…

Hotel Krasicki Pl. Zamkowy 1/7, Lidzabark Warmiński, www.hotelkrasicki. pl. Lidzbark Warmiński hasn’t always had good press – now it’s getting plenty. That’s largely due to the Krasicki, voted as having the best design in the 2011 chapter of European Hotel Awards. Set inside a restored red brick castle, features of this boutique hotel include a tower top library filled with historical scrolls and antique maps, and a hi-tech spa in a labyrinthine basement. Gondolas paddle around the moat, while luxurious suites come finished in chic, modern style. And you’re in good company: past lodgers include Copernicus, Napoleon and King Zygmunt III.

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WARSAW INSIDER | JULY 2012

“ Moss-clad, and with trees SKANSEN

Directly up the road from Wolf’s Lair find the Park Miniatur Warmii i Mazur. Here the architectural highlights of the region are presented in miniature to an appreciative crowd of rampant toddlers. But don’t think history nerds are overlooked either. An exhibition titled ‘In the Shadows of the Wolf’s Lair’ has an impressive collection of items recovered from the site, including beer bottles, board games, magazines and cameras. Temperatures reach microwave levels in this marquee, so budding historians might instead prefer to gravitate towards the outdoor display of heavy duty weaponry. Guided by a sweating man dressed as a Red Army soldier, guests are permitted to live out Alpha Male fantasies while hoisting machine guns and rifles from both world wars.

SZTYNORT

From afar, the sight of dozens of sail boats glinting on the lake suggests a busy little town. First impressions flatter to deceive though; while Sztynort is doubtlessly popular with seasonal sailors, the permanent population doesn’t even touch 200. Having enjoyed catch of the day in the stone and timber pensjonat, it’s worth checking out the derelict mansion that lies up the road. Formerly the property of the Lehndorff family, the estate was renowned for its collection of Arabic horses and ancient oaks. During the war the manor was appropriated by German Foreign Affairs Minister Joachim von Ribbentrop, who arrived with carriages full of fine wine and furniture from Warsaw. Count Heinrich von Lehndorff was allowed to retain one wing, though he was ultimately hanged for his role in the July Bomb Plot. Today, a commemorative boulder recalls his sacrifice.

POZEZDRZE

Just past the village of Pozezdrze, on the road leading to Węgorzewo, intrepid visitors will come across an eerie looking forest. It’s here, among the tangled trees and thick undergrowth, that the SS overlord Himmler kept his wartime HQ. Known as Hochwald (The Black Lair), the best surviving bunker of the lot is Himmler’s itself. Just a few minutes inside this pitch black cavern, its ceiling dripping with water, is enough to give you goose bumps. Exiting back into sunlight and birdsong is a welcome experience – “I feel like I’ve been released from a coffin,” I confess to the girlfriend.

WĘGORZEWO

The tourist town of Węgorzewo has much to recommend – not least a Teutonic castle and a stable of budget priced eateries hawking freshly caught fish. Keeping to a strict stopwatch, we have no time for either. Instead, time is allotted to climb up to a fearsome, and quite bizarre, Red Army memorial to 317 soldiers. Found on the road into town, socialism meets the space age with this quirky monument.

Only local graffiti ('Fabian + Kasia' proclaims one marker pen addition) spoils the overall effect. The cemetery across the road is treated a little more sensitively by all apart from the bonking couple we happened upon. With views stretching across the lake, this circular wooded graveyard is home to Russians and Germans killed during WWI. Silent and somber, it makes a poignant break before hitting the road.

sprouting off them, the bunkers lie like the jagged, broken pieces of a giant, concrete jigsaw” Previous page: the lock at Leśniewo Górne dominates the scenery; this page: Mamerki, up close.

MAZURIAN CANAL

The idea to build a canal leading from these parts to the Baltic isn’t new, with blueprints prepared as early as 1862. Work was finally initiated in 1911, though it was between ’34 and ’40 it underwent its most aggressive phase of development. Stretching 50km and interspersed with several locks, the most impressive of these is found at Leśniewo Górne. Leviathan in size, the lock’s brutal concrete form is lent an added sense of malignance by the imprint of a giant fascist eagle. Functioning as a summertime ‘line park’, it’s possible to get right down to the murky, stagnant water, with the sheer enormity of the lock overhead guaranteed to impress.

MAMERKI

Attracting lesser numbers than the Wolf’s Lair, the complex of bunkers at Mamerki should by no means find itself at the bottom of your itinerary. Located 18km away, it served as HQ for the OKH (High Command of the Land Forces), and a large number of bunkers have survived intact. It’s here that many of the top table generals and commanders convened, among them Halder, Guderian, Wagner and Paulus. It’s also here that details of the bomb plot were planned and refined. Covering an area of 250 hectares, walking trails are routed round the three principal zones, and deviating from them is far from wise. Do so, and you could be falling into a very deep hole – post-war efforts to scavenge communication cables have left a treacherous legacy, and that’s not the only Bear Grylls adventure you find laid out. Hire a torch at the entrance to maximize opportunities to slush your way down darkened tunnels and up crumbling stairwells – it’s not a great place to debut your Summer collection Lacoste, so dress accordingly, and not like a golfer. Alternatively, screw on your head for heights to pant your way to the top of the view tower installed on the roof of one bunker.

Info box GETTING AROUND TO SEE THE HIDDEN HISTORY OF MAZURY IS A LOT EASIER WITH A QUICK RENTAL PICK UP. • Quick pick up and drop off • A selection of new cars that will impress • For reservations call: +48 22 572 6565 • Friendly English speaking staff Locations: Warsaw Chopin Airport & Marriott Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 facebook.com/warsawinsider

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BROUGHT TO YOU BY: ENOTEKA

The Magnificent Wines of the Italian Friuli

Borgo del Tiglio is one of the unquestionable stars of Italian wine, and famous for magnificent white wines produced in Friuli – Venezia Giulia. by maciej bombol, owner of enoteka

I

n 1981 Nicola Manferrari, the top Italian winemaker, founded the Borgo del Tiglio winery to produce wine from the grapes grown in its three vineyards, all on hillsides in the DOC Collio Area. The Collio appellation, which is situated in Friuli - Venezia Giulia, is recognized as one of the most important white wine producing zones in Italy, and lies in a small chain of hills in the easternmost part of Northern Italy. The hills in the Collio area lie in the midst of a plain, 12 miles north of the Adriatic Sea and 18 miles south of the Dolomites – the foothills of the Alps. There is a great difference between the climate in the vineyards facing the sea and in those that face the mountains. There are also considerable differences in soil quality and, as one would expect, the “terroir” has a great deal of influence on the wines produced.

Borgo del Tiglio produces mainly white wines from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Tocai Friulano and Malvasia grapes. The winemaking process seeks to obtain wines with delicate properties, both complex and balanced, with the tendency to mature over time, but which maintain the characteristics of the unique “terroir”. In 2001 Nicola Manferrari started to also produce red wines, made from Montepulciano and Sangiovese grapes, at vineyards in the Rapagnano in the Marche region.

“I have realized, with hindsight, that I really wasn’t cut out to be a pharmacist,” says the former pharmacist, and now famous winemaker, Nicola Manferrari. “I have always needed to dream and build, even though my future is planned via actions, through interesting projects against which I can grow and test myself against.”

The importer of these wines is: Enoteka Polska, ul. Długa 23/25, Warsaw e-mail: enoteka@enotekapolska.pl Enoteka is also one of the best restaurants in Warsaw, ranked in 15th position among over 600 venues in Warsaw (tripadvisor.com)

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WARSAW INSIDER | JULY 2012

WARSAW INSIDER READERS CAN CHOOSE FROM A SELECTION OF THESE THREE OUTSTANDING WINES:

Milleuve Rosso IGT Marche 2006 (50% Sangiovese and 50% Montepulciano, price zł 46.50)

Collio Bianco DOC 2009 (Tocai Friulano, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay, price zł 79.50)

Collio Chardonnay Selezione DOC 2009 (100% Chardonnay, price zł 159 with quality comparable to white Burgundy Grand Cru)

Reviews: Burger Bar 44 / Delikatesy Esencja 33 / Mezzo 40 / Plus:

* 9 updates

RESTAURANTS

AFRICAN 33 / AMERICAN & TEX-MEX 33 / ASIAN 34 / BALKAN & RUSSIAN 36 / BRITISH 36 / FRENCH 38 / FOOD SHOPS 50 / GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN 38 / HOME DELIVERY 36 / INDIAN 38 / INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 40 / ITALIAN 43 / JAPANESE & SUSHI 45 / JEWISH 46 / LATIN 46 / POLISH 47 / SEAFOOD 50

KEY

Insider’s Pick

$ zł. 30 (per main)

BOW 2011 Winner.............

Breakfast menu .............

Business meetings.......... $$$ over zł. 55 Child friendly...................

Insider writers do Delivery............................. not accept any Free wifi.............................. form of payment in Map location pg 78 . ...... (A1) return for favorable Romantic.......................... reviews.

Vegetarian friendly........... $$ zł. 30-55

AFRICAN Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057. Open 10:00-23:00. Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $

PHOTOGRAPHS: THIS PAGE BY MONIKA MOTOR, OPPPOSITE PAGE COURTESY OF ENOTEKA

Delikatesy Esencja ul. Marszałkowska 8, tel. 22 480 8018, www.delies.pl. Open 8:00-22:30.

S

easoned residents may remember this venue as home to Café Brama; one of modern Warsaw’s original café chains, and one of the first to go under once the city found its mojo. Filling the narrow space vacated by that lot is DE, an artsy offshoot of the theatre next door. And very nice it is. I’m a fan of Warsaw’s growing collection of ‘culture’ café/bar/ restaurants, and this one looks better than most. No second hand collectibles here, just a minimal look accented by stark steel colors and exposed pipes that snake overhead.

The visual kaleidoscope is dominated by grey, but in a city gushing with jarring artwork that’s more gaudy than Gaudi that’s certainly a plus. That’s not to say there isn’t color – a kid’s corner adds illumination with powder blue and Barbie pink seats, as well as the leftover crayon work of Under 5 masters. And there’s plenty of that here: popular with young families steering three wheeler buggies, it’s one of the few local haunts that embraces people of all age and height.

Particularly lively are nights when culture nerds file out of the TR theater, taking their place at the white tiled bar to deliberate and debate matters of arty importance. Offering ‘slow food in the fast city’ the menu has long been applauded by those in the know.

Making use of fresh, seasonal ingredients, the concise food list embraces concepts of healthy living, and includes a marvelous gazpacho that’s just right for summer.

Myself though, I see my body not as a temple but as an all-night kebab stand. For that reason, I was delighted to note their offer covers burgers. A little less delightful was the price tag attached: zł. 45! At that cost, I expect a burger made from panda. Instead, begrudgingly, I settled for a goat cheese salad – fortunately for me, healthy eating has rarely tasted better. Completing the picture, find a shaded garden with a wild, untamed look. Perfect for procrastination, it’s a pleasing oasis in an area strangled by concrete. (AW)

La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. The exteriors don’t go beyond some tribal paintings and exotic lamps, while parts of the menu will frighten the life out of you – baked cow back, for example, sounds like a cooked spinal cord.

Our beef/tomato stew was excellent, but the goat meat saw plenty of tactical napkin use.

And good luck with the gizzard. $$

AMERICAN & TEX-MEX Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 629 3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00.

Sometimes, all you need is a good steak to make everything okay. This is not the place to find one. Usually disappointing, occasionally catastrophic, this Wild West eatery gets nil points for style, and even fewer for service. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups

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RESTAURANTS of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$ Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, www.dostacos.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00. Warsaw’s newest Tex Mex outing has been earning perfect 10s from the Insider’s who’ve visited – we’ll be dropping by ourselves for the August issue. $ Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00.

Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, this leviathan touts excellent burgers and a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls. Rock’n’roll swag numbers Joplin’s blouse, Prince's guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl.

Open 10:00-24:00. Warsaw’s best breakfast aside, head to Jeff’s for megasize portions of American classics of the burger-ribs variety. Find their twin branch in Galeria Mokotów, along with an identical roadhouse design of blinking neon. $ Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, www.sioux.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef.

Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. After a summer sabbatical, SPE are back, touting a new edgy look that makes use of concrete colors and exposed pipes. The spicy, sizzlin’ Tex-Mex is fab, and added incentive provided by the rousing rock bands. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 29 (Atrium Plaza), tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are hit-and-miss, but the burgers always on-point inside this timeless tribute to the American way. $$

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WARSAW INSIDER | JULY 2012

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory. pl. Open 12:00-last guest. The habanero salsa looks and tastes like molten lava, and is just right when paired with their hefty burritos. But it’s more than Warsaw’s premier Tex Mex joint; a firm ex-pat bastion, the barometer goes off the scale at weekends when live bands entertain a mixed bag of jiggling foreigners and hot locals. $$

ASIAN Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120.

Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bar Sajgon (D4) ul. Bracka 18. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00.

A cult budget eatery once found in the defunct Russian Market. Two years after the original went pop they’re back with a neat looking effort on Bracka. Decorated with palms and mint colors, this double decker restaurant gains particular approval for its pho dishes. $ Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. ul. Twarda 42 (off Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:0022:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system.

Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster.

The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$ Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00.

The spring rolls may “taste Polish,” but more authentic are the Cantonese loin in oyster sauce, the Tshingis Chan Mongolian Grill (all-you-can-eat for zł.65) and the succulent Peking Duck. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, www.chinagarden.pl. Open daily 12:0022:00.Allegedly the first Jiangsu cuisine restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes at the China Garden are indeed unique. On show here is everything from bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts, goose jaws and stewed bull’s penis with radish – I dare you. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. Another Vietnamese joint, this one notable for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers.

At 2 zlot per pop, there’s no excuse to miss it. $ Dziki Ryż (multiple locations) ul. Puławska 24b, tel. 22 848 0060, pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 839 2540, ul. Wspólna 35, Tel. 22 628 1825, www.dzikiryz.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Varied Asian cuisine with dishes from India, Thailand, China and Japan in a very charming setting. All locations of Dziki Ryż are popular and you’ll most likely need a reservation. $ Galeria Bali & Buddha Bar (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 828 6771, www.galeriabali.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Galeria Bali offers an extensive menu based on exotic seafood, vegetables, spices and other specialites imported straight from Indonesia. Boasts an entirely Balinese kitchen staff and genuine artifacts from Bali, Burma and Java. $$ Hong Kong House (A6) ul. Filtrowa 70 (pl. Narutowicza), tel. 22 658 0068. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Good food at affordable prices, cozy interior, and a staff whose friendly attitude makes up for their small mistakes. $$ Little Thai Gallery (D3) Pl. Dąbrowskiego 2/4, tel. 22 827 4410, www.littlethaigallery.pl . Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. High gloss violet interiors and cute elephant candle holders lend this place no shortage of style.

The food can be a hit and miss affair, though the curry dishes are usually every bit as good as they sound. So too the green tea ice cream. $$

Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, www.lovinghut.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. $ Maharaja Thai (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501.

Open daily 12:30-23:00. This Thai restaurant in the Old Town is one of the most authentic and most romantic. Great green curries in a tucked-away, magical location.

Natara (B3) Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 666 101 500.

Open 10:00-22:00. With a few wilting orchids and some symbolic pics of Buddha this bi-level restaurant won’t be in the running for any style prizes. The food is spot-on though, and after a brief panic during which we considered ordering everything – it all sounds so good – the Insider settled for duck in wine and a classic green curry. The results were outstanding: rich, velvety flavors and complex tastes. $$ The Oriental (E5) The Sheraton Hotel, ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00,

18:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00; Sun 12:0016:00 (brunch). Dark, intimate and very quiet hotel restaurant serving Thai, Philippine, Singaporean and Japanese dishes. The waiters are well versed in what the menu offers, so trust their recommendations. $$$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Sunday Brunch” Winner Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Papaya’s uncluttered, contemporary club-style space is classy with hints of luxury imparted by the strategically placed, top-notch cognac and sparkling wine. The

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RESTAURANTS Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option.

Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0000, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland.

Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24hr pizza delivery options also available.

Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl.

Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers.

Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sense, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory.

Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl.

Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts). Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus.

Restaurants covered by this mob inc. players such as India Curry, Na Zielnej, Osteria, Papaya and Sakana.

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WARSAW INSIDER | JULY 2012

Pan-Asian menu favors Thai and Japanese, but there’s also Chinese dim sum and Peking Duck. $$ Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Small but perfectly formed interiors and a menu that’s widely hailed by Thai devotees. The green beef curry is outstanding. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II ul. Wałbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Tien-Tien (C2) ul. Długa 29, tel./fax 22 635 3888. Open daily 10:00-22:00. A stained and seedy haunt that will look immediately familiar to readers who’ve strayed before inside Warsaw’s Vietnamese joints. Some rate the food - we don’t. $ Yummy (D5) ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. The Insider’s favorite budget Asian eatery, even if the empty tables suggest dark forces at work in the kitchen. Modern and minimal, the lemon chicken is delicious. $

BALKAN & RUSSIAN Banja Luka (E8) ul. Puławska 101, tel. 22 854 0782, www.banjaluka.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00.

The summer’s creeping back, and with it one of the best gardens in the biz – if that’s full though, enjoy numerous dishes from Croatia and Serbia inside interiors typical of the hunter’s hut style. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00.

This is one of those places that you enter

knowing straight away that you want more.

Try the bacon-and-tomato-scented Solanka soup and the pielmieni “Moskiewskie.” The no-frills interiors buzz with vodka tinged high jinks. $ Restauracja Bałkany ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 600 031 847. Open 10:00-22:00. Chef Borys used to do the cooking at the intricate Tawerna Tabak, and while this place looks like a step down the cooking hasn’t suffered: order the kofta. Décor is stark, dark and simple, but the welcome – like the cooking – is enthusiastic. $ Gemo ul. Minska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 22 468 1876, www.gemorestaurant.pl. Open 12:00last guest. At last, a Georgian restaurant without gnarled furniture and peasant fabrics. Located inside Soho Factory, Gemo has severe, industrial style accented further by steel lights and exposed pipework. The menu is modestly priced, yet includes several dishes to return for: the szaszlyk, for one. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, www.umadziara.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, but there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen.

The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing compared to his signature goulash. Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $ Varna (D6) ul. Lwowska 4, tel. 22 468 8792. Open 12:00last guest.There’s a few Bulgarian joints in town, but none that look this good; decorated with rich, ruby colors and Balkan embroidery the interiors are primed for an all-singing Balk-fest. The menu is cheap and cheerful, with the full list of hearty, homey classics. The musaka is peerless. $

BRITISH

The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub. pl. Open 8:00-1:00. The highly anticipated Bulldog brings the British gastro-pub phenomena to Warsaw. Traditional heart tickling breakfasts go alongside burgers, steaks and other English sundries, and are complimented by a lovely pub design straight

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RESTAURANTS out of Midsummer Murders. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

FRENCH Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 0107, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00. Bistro de Paris has always won the highest accolades from reviewers ranging from the Insider to Michelin. Here the food is exquisite, dynamic and flawless; whilst the service itself shines through all on its own. Perfect for dinner with the boss or wining and dining clients. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www.larc.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. An elegant white/black eatery with elaborate plate presentations and crustaceans lurking in the water tank – the house specialty is lobster, and they’ve got it to a tee. $$ Pari Pari (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, tel. 22 628 2402.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-last guest. French they insist, we say non. Come evening, you’ll be hard pressed to note the poster art by Lautrec through all the winking neon and thundering televisions. The menu is similarly curious – the menu bursts with references to Napoleon, Musketeers and Pigalle, though contains practically nothing you’d find in France. If you look through this inconsistency, then the Polish food isn’t bad at all. $$ Saint Jacques (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. 22 620 2531, www.saintjacques.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Warsaw’s had a long liaison with France, yet the cuisine remains under-represented. This bistro plays the right notes with an intimate interior sprinkled with street signs and life-size black and whites of distant day Paris. $$ Willa Borówka Hotel & Restaurant (Milanówek)

ul. Królowej Jadwigi 5, tel. 22 425 3881, www.willaborowka.pl. Restaurant opens

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Mon 17:00-last guest; Tue-Sun 12:00- last guest. A wonderland outside of Warsaw. This beautifully-restored manor offers a wonderfully rich atmosphere and wonderful Belgian and French cuisine with delicious beers like the Blanche de Namur. $$

GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN El Greco (B3) ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. 22 654 0458. Open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. The grapevine was right – there’s a new Greek in town and it’s the best of the bunch; the souvlaki are ace and the interiors modern, intimate and a pleasant departure from the Greek caricature. Plate smashing allowed and encouraged. $$ Fenicja (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 32, tel. 510 759 795, www.fenicja.pl. Open 10:00-24:00 (kebab window 24hrs). Bathed in a cheap green glow you just don’t expect a restaurant of this caliber in such a low-budget setting. But it’s excellent, with an encyclopedic choice of eastern dishes enjoyed by hunched Lebanese natives whispering over plates of hummus.

The locals though, seem to prefer the 24hr kebab window, home of the best post-pub soakage imaginable. $ Le Cedre (F1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, www. lecedre.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Legendary Le Cedre have a new venture, and this one looks even better than the original over the river.

Deep plum colors work well inside, and we recommend turning up with a group of friends and splitting the Baalbak (six cold starters) or Byblos (six hot starters) menu. Aside from a candid A-Z of this cuisine, it’s a great opportunity to cover the tables with fancy little plates before causing a right mess amongst you as you share and share alike. $$

Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067. Open 12:00-23:00. Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$ Samira (C7) Al. Niepodległości 213 (behind the National Library), tel. 22 825 0961, www.samira.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00.

If you make the effort to find it, you’ll spot ambassadors, celebrities and artists scarfing down their excellent Lebanese kofta. Here you will find chickpeas, tahini paste, bulgar wheat, grape leaves, rose and orange flower water. Fresh cheese (Lebanese and Bulgarian) can be bought by weight from the deli counter. $ Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Forgetting the rather dubious exterior, Santorini – decorated like a Greek fishermans tavern – remains one of the top restaurants of its ethnic class. The lamb chops are fab, but for a real plate licking experience order the milfei as dessert. $$ Tawerna Patris Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 22 357 11 11, www.tawernapatris. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

Looking dusty and disheveled from the outside, Tawerna surprises everyone who visits. Decorated with white plaster walls and pics of Greek harbor towns, the seafood starters are something else. It’s impossible to judge what’s better: the mussels in tarragon or the marinated octopus. With prices this moderate, we suggest you order both. $$

INDIAN Annapurna (B5) ul. Twarda 56, tel. 22 409 4400. Open 11:30-22:00. What had emerged as our favorite Indian in the pack has only gone and closed its doors for remont. We’ve been told, when they return, to expect a new menu with a less pronounced Indian spin. We sincerely hope not. $$

Arti (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 121/123, tel. 22 626 9002, www.restauracjaarti.pl. Open daily 11:0022:30. An exhaustive selection of largely excellent Indian dishes inside a low-cost interior in the center of town. Better surroundings but the same quality are found in their ul.

Francuska operation across the water. $ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777. Open 11:00-23:00. A definite applicant for Poland’s best looking Indian, and instantly superior to Warsaw’s more shabby curry houses. The tikka masala is love at first bite, though the spice lever on the Madras needs jacking up. $$ Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $ Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. When the service isn’t clanking around, dropping things or misplacing orders, they’re weaving between tables delivering what’s a definite candidate for Poland’s top curry. Inconsistencies abound, but the Madras is superb and the interiors chic, dark and moody. $$ Ganesh Express (A4)

ul. Grzybowska 61, www.ganeshexpress.pl.

Open 10:30-22:30. Dinky, readymade portions aimed for a lunch-on-the-run crowd. Yes, the meals are pre-cooked, but the standard has been raised, alcohol introduced and the prices moderated. $

*

Himalaya Momo (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 36. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 10:00-22:00. Tiny Indian puppets hang from indigo walls inside what some term as Warsaw’s best Eastern food. The point is moot, but nevertheless disappointments are rarely found on the Tibetan/Indian menu. Only four tables, so don’t linger. $ ul. Żurawia India Curry (D5) 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www.indiacurry.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Under new management, Warsaw’s most upmarket Indian restaurant is the corporate choice for when suits want it hot.

Never short of excellent, the prawn curries are something else. $$ Katmandu (C5) ul. Wspólna 50/52, tel. 22 622 0026.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:0023:00. Nepalese, Thai and Indian dishes inside a no-effort, bare bones interior.

But the curries are good, and occasionally excellent; set fire to your tonsils with a chicken madras. $ Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside

some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily, unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is amongst the best in the city. $$ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 While it caters to a party crowd in the evening, this place is run by Nepalese chef Prakash and features a menu of authentic treats throughout the day and evening. Also offers delivery through its India Express catering service. $ Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl.

Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $ Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices.pl.

Open 11:00-23:00. Glimmering candles and a statue of Ganesh greet diners at Saffron, a two floor eatery with a slick modern style and a rising reputation. Meat dishes are limited in their scope (and spice level), but the murgh mekhani can be outstanding at times. Watch for the lunch deals, and note they’ve recently

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RESTAURANTS added alcohol to their offer. $$

INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 12 Stolików (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 519 151 504. Open 9:0023:00. Affecting a chichi style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles and autumn leaves. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that embraces the credos that cooking should be theater. The menu comes chalked up on a board, and while the alio olio was a little overcooked, the big guns were out for the steak – fabulous. Definitely one to watch. $$

Mezzo Italian Steakhouse ul. Sienkiewicza 5 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 756 3343, www.mezzosteakhouse.com.

Open Sun-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00.

W

hen we last checked in on Chris and Kasia Dorsey, they were busy introducing the residents of Konstancin to the fine art of Thai cuisine. In the adventurous spirit of expatriates (which they are), ever transitional and transformational, their restaurant Sayam has done a 180 and become Mezzo Italian Steakhouse.

As with any good business in Poland, the best parts remain: the charming location tucked at the tip of Konstancin’s park, a nice stroll away from the healing (and cooling) water stream of the Tężnia; the attentive (and bilingual) wait staff; the welcoming (and professionally constant) presence of the owners.

The new menu helps fill the gaps in the old business plan. Lean and mean, it provides a decent choice of starters, salads, pastas, mains and pizzas without being overwhelming.

The wood-burning brick pizza oven constructed in the garden gets all thumbs up and along with the four or five pasta items daily, keeps the children happy. Weekend Luncheonettes discovered that between the substantial private playground and the food, parents can find even more quality in their precious family time.

Also novel to the community is the chance to sink your teeth into some top-notch beef.

Using filet from Poland, but New York strip and T-bone steaks from Irish Hereford cattle, Mezzo’s newly designed kitchen uses a lava grill to achieve the dispersed high heat necessary to cook the meat without losing tenderness and taste. Secret steak spices help says Chris, with a twinkle in his eye. If the price of this luxury seems an attack on the pocketbook, then check out the “Best Burger in Town,” as acclaimed by a Luncheonette regular.

Certainly gourmet in taste and presentation, no fillers (grains, etc.) diminish this all-beef, just the right size, delight.

Fortunately, Kasia’s Chocolate Fondant survived the remodeling. A favorite for big and little kids, she has been known to share the secrets of this supposedly ‘surprisingly easy’ dessert during restaurant-sponsored cooking classes. But frankly, it is so much nicer to leave the cooking to the Dorseys and sit back to enjoy the fruits of their motto – great food, great times, great friends.

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Bio 33 ul. Grzybowska 61, tel. 22 409 9605, www.bio33.pl. A space age looking restaurant in the Platinum Towers complex next to the Hilton. Making use of organic products, the premise is simple: three salads, three soups, three fish dishes, three meat etc. The results are marvelous, but the prices are daft. Zł. 26 for tomato soup!? $$ Bistecca ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www.bistecca.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

A warm and welcoming meat-themed restaurant, featuring one of the largest pieces of steak we’ve ever seen. But if you don’t fancy being chef for the night, stay away from the mixed grill – after a few moments of confusion we realized we were meant to finish the cooking process ourselves; a novel idea, but not what we had in mind when we went out for the evening. $$ Bistro Warszawa (B1) ul. Jezuicka 1, tel. 22 635 3769, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini.

The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF MEZZO

Food, libation, atmosphere and joviality. We all deserve and need to nourish the body as well as the soul – and The Luncheonettes are here to help you do just that.

Bagno Food & Wine ul. Bagno 2, www.bagno2.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00. With its huge windows and stark style you can’t help but think Bagno would work best in summer; all it takes is a grey Warsaw day to cloak this place in gloom. Which is a shame, as the food (and wine) really work here. Our steak was nicely done, with a flavorful mushroom sauce and thick baked potatoes on the side. $$

and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw crowds from across the city. $$ Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of riverside parkland – perfect for lazy Sundays with family and friends. Freshly re-opened after a winter break, during which time Chef Luc has traveled the Mediterranean sourcing the best ingredients and snooping out new recipes. $$ Brasserie@ferdy’s (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24 (in the Radisson Hotel), tel.

22 321 8822. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Vegetarians will go hungry here, but carnivores will be in meaty heaven. Get the blackened chicken with thick-cut Gaucho fries – fantastic. $$

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Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel 523 749 160. Open 12:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-6:00; Sun 14:00-24:00.

With white tiles, an artsy carpentered bar and draftsman desk lamps hanging from the walls, Bufet certainly gets points for design.

The Hungarian fish soup is delicious, while the chocolate soufflé is airy, gooey and all things nice. But choice diminishes quickly – get there early to order the ribs. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www.butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. A year on and this is still the restaurant everyone is talking about. Having scooped the award for Gazeta Wyborza’s restaurant of the year, reservations are essential.

Served on wooden boards by staff in butcher’s aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach. $$ C.K. Oberża (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 22 828 4585, www.ckoberza.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A wood-looking eatery where towering plates of food present considerable challenge to carnivore appetites – come hungry. All the basic culinary needs are covered, while the Cesarska Deska Mięs features practically every animal to ever come out the wrong end of an abattoir. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373. Open 12:0023:00. Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle

mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct, five course set lunch menus from zł. 50. Modern designer dining rarely gets better. $$$ Deco Kredens (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 826 0660, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest.

Elegant and ornate, but the menu is a tool of deception - the final results are nowhere near as tasty as they sound. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Appealing to the serious spender, the US Longhorn (a cool zł. 185) is utterly unforgettable. Try it with orange whiskey sauce. $$$ Etno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 564 5780, www.etnoerestauracja.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Looking rather sterile and anonymous, it’s no surprise to find Etno’s scattering of customers consisting of the grey-looking number crunchers from the offices upstairs. While it’s not exactly light on the wallet, the lunch deals make it more than worthwhile – a selected starter and main for 20-something zlots. $$ Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www.flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00.

A superb eatery seemingly styled by Ralph Lauren. Winning rave reviews across the board, find a strong international offering and even a small playground in the park that it views. $$ Fusion (B4) Westin Hotel, Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8631. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-22:30; Sat & Sun 7:00-10:30, 12:00-22:30. A stylish restaurant that’s best recognized for its seriously good brunches.

See for yourself each Sunday, when zł. 165 gets you unlimited access to some top-range F&B. Turn up on Thursday night for a similar offer that’s focused on fish. $$$ Green Peas (D4)

ul. Szpitalna 5, tel. 22 826 1985, www.greenpeas.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00.With Ye Goode Foode nuked into touch, it’s been left to Green Peas to wave the eco-flag. Featuring vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free meals, it’s a well-rounded, health conscious offer here – probably the healthiest in the city.

Low cal and low cost inside a greenish, cafeteria style space. $ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com. Open 12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ H3 Gourmet Burger (C12) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska, www.h3.com.

Open 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00.

Okay, so it’s in a food court, but H3 are a million times superior to the immediate neighbors. Part of a Portuguese chain, bunless burgers come in a variety of choices: including one with an egg on it (eek!). Go for the mushroom one instead. $ Kaprys (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2232, www.restauracjakaprys.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Like their service, Kaprys have had a slow start. We had a five minute wait for the menu, in spite of being the only customers.

The design looks formal and unimaginative, and the menu includes a bit of everything – it’s hard to define the cuisine. Our beef carpaccio was tasty, but sea bass – served with head, eyes et al. – was off-putting, and the potato wedges almost certainly from a bag. $$ Kultura (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 22/23, tel. 784 044 051. Open 11:00-23:00.

An initiative from the connecting artsy cinema. Looking slick and polished, creative effect is added by the use of colorful umbrella-style lights, while away from the frontline find the hard work done by the former chef at Dyspensa. And yes, it’s a dream team in the kitchen, with desserts and cakes fixed by those who made Café Misianka the legend it is. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel),

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RESTAURANTS tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com.

Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. Incorporating ‘French techniques, Polish products and Italian influences,’ chef Pawel Oszczyk has created one of the top dining rooms in Warsaw, a comfortable space that’s both intimate and plush without ever appearing over-indulgent. The the tuna tartar is a magnificent starter, and the venison faultless.

Enhancing the chef’s talents is Andrzej Strzelczyk, one of Poland’s top ranked sommeliers. $$$ Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This former bath house is adorned by columns and hand-painted glazed ceramics. A fine menu of fusion fare with an ‘artsy flair’ is guaranteed, with creative desserts to follow with. Over 300 Italian wine labels (not to mention tipples from Spain, France and Austria), as well a selection of cigars make Concept a number one choice for that all important meal. $$$ Marconi (D3) Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1823. Open daily: 6:30-10:30, 12:30-16:30, 18:00-23:00.

Sunday brunch: 12:30-16:30. Sun-kissed and flavorful – the quality at the Bristol’s Mediterranean-style restaurant is just what you’d expect from one of Warsaw’s top hotels – excellent. $$$ Merliniego 5 (E10) Restaurant and Wine Bar, ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. $$ Meza Restaurant (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Hotel). Open daily 6:30-23:00. The décor is decent and the service is very good but the food is wonderful – try the fettucini with king prawns in Chopin vodka. The Meza chocolate cake, warm and oozing liquid fudge is the most delectable bit. $$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 794 16 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00last guest. Mere steps from Wilanów’s 18th Century church, this former blacksmiths passes muster with excellent steak and a cocktail list invented by Richard Winkler –

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former mastermind of Paparazzi and Porto Praga. The fish too is fantastic and fresh, meaning even without their clincher – the summer garden – it’s very much a destinaBEST WAWA 2011 “Kid tion to follow. $$ Friendly” Winner

*

Obiekt Kulinarny (A4) ul. Towarowa 35, tel. 788 206 307. Open 10:00-last guest. Teething problems become apparent through the scattered nature of the staff, but even so we’ve seen enough here to point to a future success. Artsy scrawlings on the ceiling and walls lend some needed oomph to otherwise austere interiors, and the menu is a reasonably wide international offer of dishes like salmon with asparagus and mustard sauce. Yet to really take off in terms of footfall, though that should change in the months ahead. $$

Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. The diverse, international menu has in its number some delicious ribs in BBQ sauce. The interiors are pleasant and non-offensive, though pale in comparison when put head-to-head with the garden; a lush sanctuary, it’s one of the best around. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, Frida Restaurant - but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Porto Praga (F1) ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.

Bathed in rich, ruby shades and Art Deco swirls, PP looks classy and elegant yet never too formal. Different species of Warsaw life happily co-exist here, enjoying a revamped menu courtesy of chef Marcin Wojtczak.

The cocktails are amazing as well – Bloody Mary is our standard bar-ometer, and here it passes the test with flying colors. $$$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6)

Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl.

Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$ BEST WAWA 2011 “First Date” Winner R20 (F5-6) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295. Open 7:3022:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. This top-notch, casually elegant restaurant offers a concise, tantalizing selection of food with signature recipes from the head chef. Strongly recommended is the mouth-watering baked duck with orange and homemade ravioli. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The feeding trough of the business class. Back sporting a futuristic look, 99 have been pleasing diners since opening in the 90’s. The good news is they’re better than ever, with a modern international menu that includes one of the finest steaks in town, and the perfect margarita. $$

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SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 600 806 084. Bistro, bakery, hangout. However you choose to label SAM, it’s the talk of the town. Noisy Charlotte won all the press last summer, this time round its SAM. The cooling concrete interiors buzz throughout the day, with touches like communal tables well suited to the ascetic style. Owned by the same lot in charge of 6/12, there’s a similar commitment to good, healthy eating employed here. $$ Sense (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570, www.sensecafe.com.pl. Open Sun-Thur 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00. Fusion food, top cocktails and the restobar concept: it all started here, or at least it did where Warsaw is concerned. Years on and Sense is still a market leader, with a menu that’s perfect bait for the hot lookers who come here – try the flame-grilled lamb chops. $$ Solec (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec.waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a Swiss-Polish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small,

daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $

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Soul Kitchen (D6) ul. Noakowskiego 16, www.soulkitchen.pl, tel. 519 020 888. Open Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Food comes artfully presented in the Soul Kitchen, a minimalist space with clinical white finishes paired with brushed brick walls. Deceptively large, this three room venue isn’t short of attention to detail, and that translates all the way down to the food. Head chef Adam Lesczyński has honed his skills in some of Warsaw’s top restaurants, and if rumor is to be believed, worked under Gordon Ramsay himself. It feels wrong to pick a high point, but the chocolate truffles served with strawberries make for a magnificent finish. $$$ St. Antonio (D2) ul. Senatorska 37, tel. 22 826 3008, www.stantonio.pl. Open Tues-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-24:00. Popular among business negotiators and Polish VIPs, the place gets high marks for offering fresh and tasty Mediterranean dishes as well as seasonal Polish delicacies amidst Laura Ashley décor. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. With a location looking at the Chopin Museum you may assume this place is all about boring food at tourist prices. Wrong. Chic and shiny, and with a cool glass frontage, chef Robert – a veteran of the El Bulli kitchen – does the rest with delicate dishes that could pass for art. $$ Theatro Fusion Restaurant ul. Foksal 18, www.theatro1811.com.

Open 12:00-23:00. The menu is a balance of international influences, and includes a selection of ‘Thai pasta’ and a lovely creation called Chicken Barbara. Finally open after what seems like a year of work, the elaborate interiors reflect the Foksal location. $$ U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

Literally translated as ‘with the cooks’, you find yourself in the thick of the action here, with diners planted in the kitchen area of the former Hotel Europejski. There’s a great atmosphere of orchestrated chaos here, with food served straight from the pots. Some

are calling this the best meal in Warsaw, and it’s certainly up there…. even if the cocktails BEST WAWA 2011 “Restaurant aren’t. $$ Design” Winner Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest.

The pasta is filling, and probably deserves its reputation as some of the best in Warsaw. It comes as no surprise that they are often fullybooked. Check out one of the best summer gardens in the city. $$ Ye Goode Foode ul. Zamiany 12, tel. 22 254 4025. Open 11:00-last guest. YGF are back, this time in an off-center location in the middle of the ’burbs.

Making use of unrefined oils and organic produce these guys take their cooking seriously – even the soups are made from spring water. The menu might not be as extensive as before, but it’s not a bad shout if you’re in the hood. $$ You and Me (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, www.youandmebar.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:3024:00; Fri 8:30-2:00, Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Serving up a pretty attractive selection of food. The interiors of this café/bar look very modern, and the bold crimson decor makes it a hot spot for a date. $$

ITALIAN Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 22 635 8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl. Open 10:0023:00. It’s been years since we heard great words about Arse, and while the food remains fine there’s a distinct impression that their finest hour has long since passed.

A great play area for kids, it’s still not a bad option if you’re heading from Old Town with accompanying bambinos. $$

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Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 8303. Open 12:0023:00. Re-launched by new management, Bacio is unrecognizable from day’s yore. What once looked like a Venetian brothel has been stripped bare and given a stylish look that’s elegantly muted. They’ve got everything else right as well: from the wine to the cheeses to Warsaw’s biggest duck. $$

Street Food Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing.

Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Cheng Way (D4) ul. Chmielna 10, tel. 22 899 1626.

Open 11:00-20:00. Imagine a Franco/ Vietnamese translation of Subway and you have Cheng Way. Loaded with generous Asian fillings and sauces, the baguettes here are spot on. $ Groole (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, www.groole.pl. Open 12:00-20:00.

You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry.

A revelation! $ Okienko ul. Polna 22, tel. 603 771 483.

Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00. Food through a hatch with pride of place going to fantastic Belgian-style fries served with a comprehensive choice of sauces (top marks to the jalapeno). Large portions are zł. 10, and do just the job on post-pub munchies. $ Soul Food Bus Corner of Mazowiecka & Świętokrzyska. Open Fri & Sat 22:004:00. A game changer for the late night eating community in Warsaw – i.e. those of us who rush to the pub on Friday without eating. You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/bus.

Their m.o is simple enough. Eleven types of burgers (inc. Philly cheese steak!), and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later. Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for their latest GPS. $

Bellini (D1)

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RESTAURANTS

Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www. delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00.

Scene of this Insider’s meal of the year, circa 2010. Unassuming at first sight, it takes seconds to notice that something is very, clearly wrong – the tables are full and the diners having fun. There’s two reasons for that, and they’re called Luca and Lorenzo. Luca is the showman and waiter supreme, while Lorenzo the culinary master behind this much talked-about venue. Fish is their forte, with deliveries from Italy arriving Tuesdays. $$$ Doppio (E4) ul. Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. 22 622 1330.

www.doppio-senso.pl. Open Tues-Sun 13:00last guest. Some might call the red and white interiors a little lame – they certainly do little to suggest the greatness in store. While there’s a good scattering of pasta and mains, the real deal is the pizza; top in the town’s pecking order claim their expanding band of fans. $$ Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$ Gar Restaurant (D4) ul. Jasna 10, tel. 22 828 2605, www.gar.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

The Polish-French fusion of Gar is gone, replaced with a fun cinematic-themed trattoria.

The pizza pies are excellent with thin-crust and

Hot Find Burger Bar ul. Puławska 74/80 (entrance from ul. Olkuska).

Open Tues-Sun 12:00-20:00 (or whenever they run out of supplies).

W

ithin a few hours of the Burger Bar opening back in May it became the most blogged-about chow spot in Warsaw. All I heard was, “Have you been to the Burger Bar yet? It’s amazing!”

Of course, I had to check it out for myself. I managed to wrangle a date with a handsome young gent who boasted that he’s buddies with the owner and the very next Sunday afternoon we were baking on the sidewalk off of Mokotów’s main thoroughfare waiting for our

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hearty toppings. The hefty prices have slimmed down to an easy zł.12-35 per dish. $$

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La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. On the right day you’ll find the ex-pat proprietors of Warsaw’s more refined Italian eateries using this for their pizza fix. It might not look like much, but its reputation speaks for itself. $ La Cantina (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 331 6798, www.lacantina.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest.

Mediterranean dishes with pastas, seafood and meat dishes and a large variety of pizza from a wood-fired oven. $ La Tomatina (D4) ul. Krucza 47. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00. Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from splendid pizzas served in a modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. The spicy tiger prawn spaghetti is also

burgers. And we waited. And waited.

We drank cokes in the meantime and fantasized about the promise of the city’s best burger. Not even Jacek’s purported connections helped us inch any further up the line. This joint is a true democracy. A crowded one at that but I knew precisely why when 25 minutes after we’d arrived Jacek brought over cheese-laden burgers tucked into a fluffy snow-white bun and served in an old-fashioned bright plastic basket. We opted for a side of spicy chipotle sauce and tucked in. Absolute heaven. Of all the overrated spots in this city it’s one of the rare times I haven’t been disappointed.

It’s pretty much a diamond in the rough, situated between a liquor store and a kebab shop (the owner of which stares greedily at all the customers elbowing for their turn at the grill). There’s a bunch of trash floating around from the abandoned lot nearby, and Burger Bar itself is a Spartan affair: decorative elements don’t extend beyond the addition of tables and chairs. But none of this deters from the experience – in fact, it adds to that In The Know atmosphere. And yes, the beef is premium grade, with a wagyu option for all those gourmets out there. Price? An easy zł. 18 for a burger, zł. 20 for the cheeseburger, zł. 35 for the wagyu. There’s also a pulled pork option once you’ve been here so many times you figure you might opt for a change. Verdict: hands-down the sort of burger you imagine Travolta and Thurman chowing on in Pulp Fiction. And, rumor has it they’ve already ordered a second grill, so it should speed up that agonizing wait. (AL)

PHOTOGRAPH ALEX WEBBER

Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. 22 831 0202, www.restauracjabellini.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Queen of cuisine Magda Gessler brings her magic to the realm of Italian cooking with this spacious, enigmatic cellar restaurant just a few doors down from U Fukiera. Brilliant pizzas, especially the signature white pizza, with fresh mozzarella, provolone, rucola, pear slices and pine nuts. $$

great, even if the presentation looks like a student cooked it. $ Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Design doesn’t figure highly here, instead the onus is on food – the salads are good, but the pizzas even better; maybe even the best in the city. Who says so? Only about a zillion Italians who order from here. $ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706.

Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, lunch 12:00-16:00; Sat & Sun 7:30-10:30, lunch 12:30-16:30.

Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30. Hot and cold buffet for zł.90. $$$ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00.

The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Pizzeria na Nowolipkach (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, tel. 22 498 8877, www.nanowolipkach.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A back street haunt that earns its stripes for excellent pizza – but better ring your order, with staff this sour it pays to keep contact minimal. $ Poezja (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 622 6762, www.poezja.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The Italian influence is evident in the extravagant menu and a lovely wine list. Try the garlic cream soup with snails as a starter and get the ink with shrimp as a main. $$ Pomidoro (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702 8777.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. An authentic Italian restaurant located in a renovated paper mill. Chef Ricardo whips up some of the best pizzas, pastas and steaks you’ll find in this city. Try the spaghetti alle vongole or the bistecca alla fiorentina for a real taste of Tuscany. $$ Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886,

www.puntaprima.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. A formal looking space with wood walls and important chests and cabinets.

Start with a glass of prosecco before being blown over by mains like guinea fowl with truffle puree and caramelized beetroot – even better than it sounds. $$

Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3)

Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest.

Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill.

The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$ Roma Bukieteria (E5) ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 621 0311, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. If you’re looking for a spot of Mediterranean romance, this is the place. Warm shades of terracotta, wooden interiors and rose petals are the perfect place for a romantic dinner with a special someone. $$ Rusticoni Restaurant (C4) Złote Tarasy, tel. 22 222 0550, www. rusticoni.pl. Italian specialities, right in the heart of Warsaw. Choose from a wide variety of pizzas and pastas, as well as an assortment of meat and fish dishes, and a range of desserts, including home-made tiramisu. $ Trattoria Rucola (H4) ul. Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00.

Serving classic Italian favorites including pizza, pasta and risotto, this restaurant has something for everyone. The Saska Kępa locals already love this place, so reservations are recommended. $ Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00.

Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side. The M.O is very much the same, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $

Vapiano (B12) ul. Taśmowa 7, tel. 22 356 1050, www.vapiano.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venezia (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 622 1537, www.venezia.com.pl. Open noon-23:00.

What happens when a restaurant hits the skids? They call Magda Gessler, or more specifically her Polski version of Kitchen Nightmares. Reinvented under her guiding hand, Venezia are back with an exciting menu and an informal design that includes Venetian murals and a stone lion. Can Venezia reclaim their reputation? The grilled sirloin with chili says yes. $$ Venti Tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. With good seafood – such a rarity in Warsaw – Venti Tre serves up lovely meals that would appease the finicky appetite of any fish-lover.

For cooking classes with the head chef contact the hotel. $$$ Vera Italia (Ochota) ul. Sąchocka 5, tel. 22 823 8380, www.veraitalia.pl. Open 11:30-23:00.

Where Warsaw’s Italian and other expats craving the real thing gather for Italian food.

Note that its popularity makes booking ahead a must. $$ Villa Czersk (Czersk) ul. Warszawska 23, tel. 22 736 2188, www.villaczersk.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

Found 30 clicks south of Warsaw, VC gets a spoonful of extra points for setting; a mock Tuscan villa in walking distance from the ruined castle in Czersk. Ideal following a visit to the aforementioned, this restaurant has a formal air and an important sounding internationa/Mediterranean menu that specializes in fish – make sure to try the mussels, they are fantastic. $$

JAPANESE & SUSHI Akashia (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0333, www.akashia.pl. The glory years are over, especially if a visit to the Złote Tarasy outpost

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RESTAURANTS is anything to go by. We like our duck to be crispy, but this could have been blowtorched – we didn’t need chopsticks, we needed a chisel. The W.C could benefit from a lick of paint and all. $$ Art Sushi (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 22 621 7720, www.artsushi.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The restaurant is charming, modern and peaceful. The menu is strictly Japanese/Korean, but is a good starting-point for sushi first-timers. $$ Besuto (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 828 0020, www.besuto.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. After years trading in one of the grubby pavilions behind Nowy Świat, Besuto have upped chopsticks and moved onto Nowy Świat itself. The sushi is as good as ever, only now so are the views. You’d have expected the prices to climb north to reflect the change in address: they haven’t. $$

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Hana Sushi (A1) al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), www.hanasushi. pl. Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Gugo Sushi (Wilanów) ul. Nałęczowska 60, tel. 22 394 5480, www.gugosushi.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00. Fresh ingredients and wide selection of traditional items and modern creations from the classic and fusion menus make this new sushi spot in Wilanów worth checking out. $$ Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955.

Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00).

Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. $$$ Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu.

Open 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$

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Kaizen ul. Świetlicowa 7/9 (Konstancin), tel. 607 128 840. Open 12:00-22:00. Dark woods and orchids warm the characteristically minimal Japanese design. The traditional sushi is delicious; however they also step in uncommon directions as they cater to Western tastes, with additional sauces, innovative inclusions and elegant plate ensembles. $$ Oto Sushi (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 44, tel. 22 828 0088, www.oto-sushi.pl. This little sushi spot is both modern and intimate, making it great for casual meals or dates. Excellent sushi and swift service. Great patio in summer. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Some call it the best sushi in the city, and they may have a point.

Practice nimble chopstick tricks alongside other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi 77 (B4) ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 22 890 1811, Al. KEN 49, ul. Polna 48, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, C.H. Skorosze, ul. Gen. F. Sławoja-Składkowskiego 4, www.sushi77.com. Open 12:00-23:00. Not the best in town, but definitely the best deal in town. Prices have been slashed 40%, meaning you’ll get a highly acceptable sushi fix for an economy class bill. $ Sushi Teatr (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 4787, www.sushiteatr.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. This small yet very comfortable restaurant is relaxing in its Zen-like elegance. Great for sharing a platter with a hot date. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00.

The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle.

Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent.

While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather

cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

JEWISH Rambam ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 243 2693, www.rambamrestaurant.pl. Open Sun-Fri 11:30-23:00. Kosher-certified, though by no means the exclusive domain of the Israeli coachloads who tour the district. A chic look with Middle Eastern accents is paired off with exotic dishes that include a lamb burger with red onion chutney and mint sauce. $$

LATIN Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

A lasting legend and something of a favorite for after-work informal drinks, though recent reconnaissance has revealed plenty of deficiencies – our burrito was tiny, and not so much over-cooked as blowtorched: if it’d been human, you’d have needed dental records to identify it. Service can be calamitous, making the 10% added to the bill the subject of hot debate. $$ Cuatro Caminos ul. Grzybowska 2, tel. 22 493 8748, www.cuatro-caminos.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Winning blanket approval for what’s sometimes regarded as the best Spanish choice in Warsaw, Cuatro Caminos feature a scattering of selected mains and some excellent tapas in a prime location for an after-work meet. $$ El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistentlyinconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$ El Toro Steakhouse ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www. eltororestaurant.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Decked with stone cladding, wooden supports and a mural of a Mexican desert

scene, El Toro is a valuable discovery for meat loves out there. There’s seven steaks to saw through, and they reach a hefty zł. 157 for the Porterhouse. A whole lot cheaper are the delicious Louisiana Hot Wings, though for fans of the Mex part of Tex-Mex the authenticity is open to discussion. $$

Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, www.portucale.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$

Frida Nowy Świat (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. 691 343 434. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00.

Both the location and the design have been nailed, and while the salsa lacks teeth, the food is slowly approaching the level set by the more established haunts in the Latin class.

Good burgers, as well. $$

Taqueria Mexicana (D4) ul. Zgoda 5, tel. 22 556 4720/22, www.taqueriamexicana.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. This little slice of Mexico serves great fajitas and even better Caesar Salad. Stick with the guacamole. $$

Ole Tapas ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, www.ole-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for.

Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$

The Mexican (E4) ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 22 826 9021, www.mexican.pl. Open Sun-Thur 11:0024:00; Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00. Style-wise this place is fab, complete with an adobe courtyard and Corona chandeliers. But the authenticity crashes into calamity with the food, which frequently appears as a mysterious gloop served with mashed cabbage.

The locals love it. $$

POLISH Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E5)

Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.kprb.pl/amber. Open for lunch Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, dinner Mon-Fri 18:00-22:00, Sat 19:00-22:30. The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747,

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RESTAURANTS www.aterlieramaro.pl. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30. Nigel Slater recently called Atelier, “the most extraordinary meal of the trip,” and The Guardian’s gastro guru has hit the nail on the head. Find a menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques (e.g. blasts of nitrogen), with each course interspersed with occasionally bizarre molecular interludes – you bet we didn’t expect to be served a fizzy aloe leaf. This is Poland’s finest restaurant, and a real contender for the nation’s first Michelin star.

Bookings essential. $$$ Belvedere Restaurant (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold BEST WAWA and black interiors. $$$ 2011 “Business Venue” Winner Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www.bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 460 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics. $ Cuda Wianki ul. Przekorna 15 (Powsin), tel. 22 498 1508.

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:0022:00. Standing at the foot of Kabaty Forest, the interiors here are simply adorable, and heavily influenced by folk art. Co-owned by a tennis pro and his parents, this family have sought to develop their own menu, based on standard Polish fare, but with twists and turns they have gathered through prior experience. The results are excellent. $ Delicja Polska (D6)

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ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Dyspensa (E5-6) ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 22 629 9989, www.dyspensa.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Back after a refit, Dyspensa now looks altogether sharper, cosmopolitan even.

There’s great people watching to be had from the raised window seating, and a menu of fine Polish fare with international accents. $$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight.

If it’s the all-singing, all-dancing village experience you’re after then consider this place. Clad in wood and rural debris the food is what you expect: bulky portions of farmyard kill. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest.

Delicious traditional Polish dishes such as golonka, żurek, karkówka and kaszanka, served in hearty portions in very eclectic interiors. $$ Honoratka (C2) ul. Miodowa 14, tel. 22 635 0397, www.honoratka.com.pl. Open daily 12:00last guest. This place has been around since 1826 and has played host to many famous guests, including Chopin. Honoratka serves delicious traditional Polish dishes and international courses. Live music every day from 18:00. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00. Bathed in red banners and propaganda paintings the Red Hog is your one stop shop for some socialist socializing. The

menu is comically split between dishes for the proletariat and those for the dignitaries: the final result though is middle-of-the-road stodge. People – us included – return for the atmosphere rather than the food. $$ Jadalnia Popularna (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 22 828 4454. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-17:00. Like a milk bar, only it isn’t. So the food comes out of canteen containers, but it doesn’t stink and it’s served with a smile. Find low-cost Polish eats served around a fun, retro theme to a crowd who wouldn’t be seen dead in the scummy bar mleczny of old. $ Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21. Open 11:00-6:00. Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to chains of bog paper that commonly retailed.

The menu, designed by TV chef Robert Sowa, is exactly what you’d have found in the old days, and best enjoyed with a cold nip of voddie. $ MG Eat Gessler (D4) ul. Chmielna 32. Open 10:00-23:00.

Now MG is not your signature Gessler venture; lacking the OTT interiors and flamboyant prices this is a clear departure from what we’re used to. In fact, you couldn’t even call it a restaurant, more a bio café/deli. The ciabbattas are great, and the FroYo outstanding. $ Na Zielnej (C4) ul. Zielna 37, tel. 22 338 6333, www.nazielnej.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; 12:00-22:00. Earning plaudits from all corners of the press is Na Zielnej, a dining diva which sources only the finest Polish produce.

Split into a restaurant and (marginally cheaper) bistro, the menu has had foodies raving, and includes divine dishes such as pheasant’s breast. And the interiors hit the mark as well – making use of the space vacated by KOM, Na Zielnej touts an edgy, engaging design of bare bricks and violet BEST WAWA 2011 flourishes. $$$ “Address to Impress” Winner Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00.

An extensive repertoire of traditional Polish foods that you know, from Jewish-style carp to duck with apples. The place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The service is mixed, and occasionally hostile, but prices are low. $

Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Polka ( D2) ul. Świętojańska 2, www.restauracjapolka.pl, tel. 22 635 3535. Open 12:00-23:00. Colorful pastel interiors inspired by Polish folk art set the tone for this place. The servings are small, but the food is top notch. $$ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00last guest. It isn’t just the impressionable tourists and new-in-town expense account communities that are swept away by Różana’s

charms. It features starchy white table linen, floral pieces, flickering candles and live piano solos to a posse of attentive waiters. The prices are fair and the menu is a thoughtful selection of dishes from “Old Poland.” $$ Rialto’s Restaurant (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto Boutique Hotel), tel. 22 584 8771. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-22:30; Sat-Sun 7:00-22:30. Bathed in toffee and vanilla hues, the restaurant in this Art Deco hotel has a solid claim as one of the top meals around. The pan-seared duck breast with honey pumpkin and figs is every bit as inspired as it sounds. $$$ Rozpusta Restauracja Polska (B3) ul. Elektoralna 23, tel. 22 499 5178, www.restauracjarozpusta.pl. Open 12:0023:00. Only seven mains to choose from, but the chef appears a master of them all. Utilizing homemade pates and sauces, the menu involves geese, lamb and a jolly good salmon.

They’ve not exactly done anything new, but what they have done, they’ve done it well. $$ Słony (D5) ul. Piękna 11, tel. 22 629 0364. Open Mon-Wed 8:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 8:00-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-23:00. The design is kitsch but classy, with mirrored touches and striped wallpaper set against upside down lamps and nudes of Josephine Baker. Polish canapés costing zł. 8 are stored behind glass counters here, and make for great bargain snacking – the eggplant is delicious. And yes, it’s got Magda Gessler’s name stamped on it. $

Smaki Warszawy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 22 621 8268, www.smakiwarszawy.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Well-known on the Warsaw scene as a delightful Polish restaurant (try the lamb, for sure), Smaki Warszawy is also renowned for its cakes. Smiling and welcoming staff pour amazing lattes and serve up slices of fantastic pistachio cream cake. $$ Stary Dom (E12) ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, www.restauracjastarydom.pl. Open 12:0023:00. This “old house” serves good old traditional Polish food. The atmospheric main hall features high ceilings and eye-catching wooden beams; mains include rabbit, duck (the house special) and pork cutlets, while the desserts are divine. What sets this place apart from other Polish restaurants are the prices. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians.

Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www. uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. The place is named after a tubby fictional Czech soldier,

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RESTAURANTS but the grub is hearty Polish, XXXL portions at bargain prices. At zł. 15 per litre of beer, the mugs are constantly refilled to wash down the feast of sausages, ribs and pork knuckles. $$ Villa Nuova (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 23 (near the Wilanów Palace), tel. 22 885 1502, www.villanuova.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

Out of the way, but serving trad Polish cuisine with a gourmet twist, and beautifully presented, gorgeously rich desserts. $$$ Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Wańkowicza 1, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, ul. Podwale 1, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, www.zapiecek.eu.

Open 11:00-22:00. Six Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

in Wilanów (Konstancin, Old Paper Mill, ul.

Wojska Polskiego 3, open Sat 10:00-15:00).

British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804.

British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items inc. Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc.

Krakowski Kredens Various locations across town, check their website for details: www.krakowskikredens. pl. Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as fantastic hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS African Shop ul. Wilcza 51, tel. 507 247 292, www.afroeuro. eu. Beans, beverages, flour and soup thickeners. Hair products and cosmetics also available, and they promise to be bringing in Abyssinian coffee in the near future as well. ‘’Excellent,’’ gushes one Zimbabwean connection.

Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www.biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00.

Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. Cash only, with a second branch

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MeiAsia ul. Kilińskiego 3, tel. 22 402 1307, www.meiasia.com.pl. Open 10:00-21:00.

A top Asian spot just off the fringes of Old Town. Featured products from China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Thailand and Singapore.

Sauces, noodles, snacks and oils, as well as a small stand with fresh fish and seafood.

Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939.

Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries.

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SEAFOOD Osteria (D5) ul. Koszykowa 54 (at ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 1646, www.osteria.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. An intimate restaurant with marine-inspired décor and the best seafood in Warsaw, t’s ideal for an energetic business lunch or romantic late-night supper. You can also pick up your seafood to go from their neighboring shop. $$

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready BEST meals, confectionary and preserves.

WAWA 2011 “Gourmet Grocery” Winner

La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www.lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Thur 9:0020:00; Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 11:30-16:00. Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, grourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more.

La Petite France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, www.lapetitefrance.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:3018:00. Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France.

Le Diplomat ul. Meksykańska 6, tel. 22 616 0539.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00.

Long regarded as the best butcher in town, as well as the number one source for lamb.

Maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www. maho.com.pl. An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry.

Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. An excellent online store retailing everything from mild sauces (Blair’s Wasabi Green Tea, Jim Beam BBQ), to the super, crippling hot (Ass Reaper, Dave’s Ultimate Insanity). Of the other brands favored by hotheads, find labels such as Mad Dog, Melinda’s and Crazy Jerry’s. Extracts, chili peppers, salsas and snacks also available.

Papryka-Hungarian Store ul. Zwycięzców 22, tel. 22 616 0257, www.papryka-salami.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A Hungarian deli selling wine, meats, preserves and spices.

Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, coffee from Florence and Olives from Puglia. And not just Italian: find a range of foods from both Spain and France.

Polna Market ul. Polna 13, Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West. And it’s still known as something of a shoppers paradise, with a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butchers, and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables.

Reviews: Dziurka od Klucza 51 / Plus:

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS CAFES 51 / WINE BARS 54

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Insider’s Pick

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BOW 2011 Winner.............

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Child friendly...................

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Free wifi..............................

Map location pg 78 . ...... (A1) Romantic..........................

Vegetarian friendly...........

CAFÉS 5.29 (D4) ul. Krucza 51 (corner of Widok). Open Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Stuffed in an area of 5.29 sq/m, here’s a candidate for Poland’s smallest café. Maybe the world’s. But there’s not just great espresso to knock back while standing, but a great oven knocking out foccacias, bagels and fresh French pastries.

Dziurka od Klucza ul. Radna 13, tel. 22 881 8677. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-21:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KAROLINA KALINOWSKA

S

ome of us already knew that Powiśle has emerged as Warsaw’s ‘it’ neighborhood, but now it seems that the secret is out. The area is now bustling with newly-opened venues, most of an ambiguous nature – places that simultaneously fill the function of bar, café and restaurant. And in the middle of this lands Dziurka, hidden away among the trees and pleasantly bathed with white brickwork, violet splashes and wooden panels and floorboards.

They call themselves a kingdom for big and small princesses alike, and the decor sure is enough to confirm. Curious doors sit embedded into the wall as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Herb pots dot the windowsills, while flowers and lampshades burst forth from the remaining surfaces.

The name translates simply to “keyhole” (hence all the keys, doh), and the place sure is as small as one. It is more bistro than anything else, although customizing your visit into a café experience is no mean effort given their wide coffee menu and divine desserts that reside on the counter. But it feels unfair to write about this place without mentioning the food – that is, after all, the star of the show.

Revolving around Italian classics (think linguine, ravioli, gnocchi), the concept is simple: have a narrow core menu and a separate daily menu that ensures that you won’t be eating the same thing twice. Add a little creative flair and lots of mouthwatering ingredients and you’ve got yourself a recipe for loyal customers. Yet the finishing touch has got to be in the pasta, which they manufacture themselves, hanging them from the ceiling to dry for the entire world to admire. Try their intriguing black variety, dyed with squid ink…if you dare! Anything but typical, this side street charmer has already done a grand job of getting local foodies talking – expect its reputation to grow further as the year grows older. (KK)

Antrakt (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 827 6411.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. Intellectuals and playwrights gather in Antrakt, a quirky cafe that groans with antiques and artwork.

The presence of the theater next door keeps the IQ level high.

Aroma ul. Krucza 6, tel. 22 376 5475, www.aromaespressobar.pl. Open 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-20:00. An attractive Israeli owned spot with white painted walls and a busy café atmosphere – hissing coffee contraptions and lively sounds. The sandwiches are nice enough, but we like this place for their other offerings: cinnamon twisters, Belgian waffles and chocolate croissants.

Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest.

Brilliant traditional desserts in a historic location that has a history that spans over a century of fine pastry-making. Also stop by the next-door deli for specialty goods.

Bubbleology ul. Chmielna 26, www.bubbleology.pl.

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS Open 11:00-23:00. Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café.

But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. ‘Bubble Tea’ is the beverage here, with an arsenal of fruit flavors made by zany lab coated staff.

Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333,

BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

Słony Magda Gessler invites you for the best breakfast in Warsaw in the morning and for snacks served with wine and ‘shots’ of lager in the evening and night.

www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00.

Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; still very much the BEST WAWA choice haunt for the in-team.

2011 “Cafe Culture” Winner

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Café Galeria Sztuki (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 13, tel. 22 619 8109, www. caffee.stanowski.pl. Open 9:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. Located in a restored tenement, Sztuki is defined by raw brick, whitewashed walls and antique furniture… with price tags attached. Yes, if you like the chair you’re sitting on, feel free to buy it. The summery iced lattes are divine.

Café Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620 3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:0023:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. Ignoring the fact that most of this street looks ready to fall down, the artsy-looking Próżna comes with a chic, ice white look, and a stack of hard-back tomes to compliment the homemade desserts. Even better at night, when soaked in the glow of dozens of candles.

We recommend:

• “Sznytki” - small canapès with spreads (also available for takeaway and catering) • The best white sausage in Warsaw • Herring served in different styles • Viennese specialties: leberkäse, debreciner and Frankfurter sausages • Breakfast sets and breakfast à la carte.

On the weekends served till 4 p.m.

• Wide selection of gluten-free dishes Słony, 11 Piękna St. (crossroads of Piękna St. and Krucza St.) Tel. 22 629 0364; 506 052 093 www.slony.pl; slony@slony.pl

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Café Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115.

Open daily 6:30-24:00. A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from almond croissants to delicate brioches.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest.

Dreadlocks and piercings are favored attire in C25, an artsy café with a battered look.

Here it’s all sagging sofas and chipped wood tables inside a soothing environment celebrated for its experimental events and anti-establishment vibe. But with their alcohol license suspended, there’s question marks over the future.

Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31, tel. 22 826 3294, www.czulybarbarzynca.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. A very charming bookstore and café in one.

Haagen Dazs (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 826 3052. Open 10:00-20:00. While Starbucks have struggled to replicate their Western form, Haagen Dazs haven’t. The mango sorbet is out of this world, albeit served inside generic, showroom interiors.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822, www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses.

Kawiarnia Ogrody (D2) ul. Mariensztat 21A, tel. 22 826 2898, www.kawiarniaogrody.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00.

The black and white decor manages to strike a perfect balance between grungy and chic. Kawiarnia Ogrody is located on the beautiful, old-timey Mariensztat, and serves a selection of coffee drinks, shakes, snacks and pastries. Watch out, the ‘large’ coffee is actually huge!

Klubo Kawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, www.klubokawiarnia.net.

Open 9:00-last guest. Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors.

Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, screenings and art happenings have launched it into local conscience.

La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, www.lavanille.pl. Open 8:00-20:00. In much the same way Charlotte is so much more than a bakery, La Vanille is definitely more than your standard confectioners.

Thick with the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that acts as a magnetic force, and it’s here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation. The coffee is pretty good and all.

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Limoni Canteri 1952 (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 52. Open 8:00-22:00. What appears as a run-of-the-mill high street

cafe is anything but. The ice cream here is sensational, with unconventional flavors that deviate from the norm – really, have you ever ordered a cone of tomato and beer flavored ice cream? Italian run, it’s a must in the summer.

Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders.

Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired influenced by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards.

Mam Ochotę ul. Grójecka 75, tel. 22 667 8280, mamochote.blogspot.com. Open 9:00-24:00. A hip haven in an upcoming area this café gets cool concerts and other such events. And unlike most cafés in its genre, you don’t get the impression you’ll catch fleas from the seats.

Attractive light woods and guest artwork keep this place looking fresh and fun.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, tel. 22 828 5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. One of Warsaw’s enduring legends, and as popular at night as it is during the day; media types love it, and you’ll find them pecking on quesadilla

type snacks inside a hip, white interior.

Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 512 091 840, www.ministerstwokawy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Were it not for the fact MK opened after voting had closed, you’d have bet your bottom zlot this would have romped home with our ‘best café’ award.

Decorated sparingly with white wall tiles and wooden floors, this newbie numbers some ace fruit drinks amongst its greater glories. Find a painfully vogue crowd comparing boutique buys over gourmet coffee.

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www.mito.art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:00-23:00. Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by modern art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel.

Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D3) Nowy Świat 63, tel. 22 505 6696, www.nowywspanialyswiat.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. All life is here, from environmental radicals to theater bigwigs, and while it helps to look like a political activist, it’s become increasingly popular with the more standard Nowy Świat crowd. Lectures, DJs, exhibitions and screenings mean no night is the same.

Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30.

An attractive Saska café decked with pale white colors, and steel lights overhead.

Service can be frustrating, and some call the food overpriced, factors which are offset by a high street location: perfect for a spot of people watching.

Przystanek MDM ul. Waryńskiego 9/1, tel. 509 031 062. Open 7:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00. A retro themed café with its feet firmly planted in the 50s – check out the gaudy PRL armchairs and the giant black and white of pl. Konstytucji.

The range of unfiltered local beers makes it that bit more than just a café.

Saint Honore (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 20/22, tel. 508 143 987, ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), www.saint-honore.pl.Open 8:00-21:00. Accept no imitation, here’s the best bakery around.

And aside from fresh baguette sandwiches, find authentically French cakes, croissants and pastries.

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Śniadaniownia ul. Dąbrowskiego 38, tel. 507 513 502. Open 8:00-15:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-17:00. A bright looking breakfast bar with pale woods and pot plants to offset any early morning trauma.

The day’s breakfast sets are scrawled up on a blackboard, and usually involve a number of healthy living options to kicks start the day.

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Socjal (E4) ul. Foksal 18, tel. 601 318 966. Open 9:00-4:00.

Socal looks white, modern and minimalist,

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS with the action all centered around a long communal table – who’ll you’ll end up talking to is down to the dice. Opened by the same people behind 12 Stolików, this place is equally, and painfully, design conscious. The food is light Italian, and comes promptly delivered from a busy open kitchen.

Sto900 (E3) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 787 696 241. Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. A fabulous café/restaurant with a spontaneous design that jumbles

BROUGHT TO YOU BY: COFFEEHEAVEN

bricks and wood with mismatched furniture.

From the outside, this place looks like the entrance to a squat, so be surprised to learn it’s not just the atmosphere that’s ace. The menu changes daily, but usually involves commendable burgers (with a daring but successful addition of beetroot) alongside more unexpected dishes: e.g. eko-falafel.

Tel Aviv (D5) ul. Poznańska 11, tel. 22 621 1128, www.tel-aviv.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:30-22:00; Fri 8:30-midnight; Sat 10:00-midnight; Sun 10:00-22:00. One high-profile Jewish visitor described the food as ‘vile’. So maybe leave the humus to others, enjoy instead a cool, indigo-colored, pop-art style space with Israeli music and hard-to-find beers.

WINE BARS

TASTE YOUR FAVORITE COFFEE IN COFFEEHEAVEN coffeeheaven is much more than just coffee: for our customers it has become a synonym for the best quality products, the best people and the best ambient atmosphere. For 12 years, as the unquestionable market leader in Poland, it has been a haven for all those seeking premium coffee and food, and a center point for relaxation and revitalisation. coffeeheaven stores are conveniently located in shopping malls, high streets, railway stations and airports.

It’s an ideal place for those on the move, as well as for those who wish to relax and enjoy their coffee and snack. Come and visit the unforgettable coffee stores of coffeeheaven.

For a list of locations, check: www.coffeeheaven.pl

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Charlotte (D6) pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open MonFri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:0022:00. Further proof of Zbawiciela’s rising star is Charlotte, a trendy boulangerie/wine bar. With seating spilling out underneath the colonnades outside, this was easily the hit of the summer. Pandering to the hipsters and trendies, you’d expect this sort of place BEST WAWA 2011 in Hoxton, London.

“Newcomer & People Watching” Winner

renovated factory allows you to easily whittle away the hours.

Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine bar on ul. Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, café-style chic. The locale offers daily specials that feature two four-course menus.

The shops’ wines are sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

The summer courtyard garden is a particular standout feature.

Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Some call it the best wine bar in Warsaw, others the best in Poland. Either way, this place hits the right notes with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu, old and new world wines and a chic warehouse design filled to bursting with crates and boxes.

Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight; Sun 14:00-22:00. Located just outside the Old Town, this minimalist wine bar is a great place for a date. Wines from top European wine makers are impressive and the prices are very decent.

Joseph’s Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, www.josephwinebar.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This newlyopened restaurant, bar and wine shop features great atmosphere and amiable staff.

Don’t come here for a quick dinner. Instead, come here to drink the wine and savor the rich and inventive meals. Service is slow, but rightly so, leaving guests with just enough time to regain their appetite for seconds.

Being firmly tucked away from the center in a

Vinoteka 13 + Wine Bar (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7407, www.vinoteka13.pl.

Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This premium wine shop and bar is tucked away in the beautiful Likus Concept Store. It sports a wide selection of fine wines from Italy, France, Austria and Spain, along with some stronger spirits and Cuban cigars at a varied price range. Also serves a tasting menu of cheeses and deli meats.

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WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 8, tel. 22 646 8742, www. winkolekcja.pl. Open 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. You can’t pick your neighbors...

In WinKolekcja’s case, that means a kebab shop opposite and a bottle bank with a constant stream of street bums. But in spite of the curious location, this new wine bar/ store looks set to thrive; the wine choice is comprehensive, and the food excellent. The design has the routine look of a club class lounge area; even so, it’s a timely addition to an area not rich in options.

Reviews: Miasto Cypel 55 Plus:

* 7 updates

NIGHTLIFE

BARS & PUBS 55 / CLUBS 59 / GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS 60 / JAZZ 60

KEY

Insider’s Pick

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews

BOW 2011 Winner.............

Food Served....................

Free wifi..............................

Live Music..........................

Map location pg 78 . ...... (A1) Romantic..........................

BARS & PUBS Bar 13 with Rene Geoffroy (D4) ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac Department Store).

Open 12:00-last guest. Stone walls and metallic seats lend an austere aesthetic to this champagne bar, but that’s recompensed by seriously competitive prices: champers starts at zł. 29 per glass. Found in Poland’s first luxury department store, it’s a logical conclusion to your spending spree.

Miasto Cypel ul. Zaruskiego 6, miastocypel.eu. Open Mon-Thur 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-6:00; Sat 12:00-6:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAŁ MURAWSI/ISHOOTMUSIC.EU

W

hen I first turned up to Poland, it was dressed like a Victorian explorer. I had assumed the country was permanently on ice, and prepared accordingly, arriving to town with a suitcase brimming with creepy balaclavas and fur-trimmed pants. So, it’s fair to say nothing really readied me for that first Polish summer. For three months I cooked like a goose set on gas mark nine. How I longed for after-work beers in a breezy garden; alas, that famous local fear of ‘the draft’ had penetrated every level of society. Drinking was done stoically indoors, and if you were lucky enough to find an al fresco haunt it was either next to a road or full of weightlifting grizzlies.

In recent times this has changed and this year, column inches have been devoted to Miasto Cypel, a seasonal star that’s become the talk of the town. A bold creation, its aim is straight forward: to establish a mini creative community on the banks of the Wisła.

Set down a woodland road, you’ll find the dirt path opening up to a large forest clearing: in front, dozens if not hundreds of tents of all size: for €25 you’re free to bed down.

But this is more than a campsite. Cypel has a program that includes film screenings and flea markets (H&M opened a pop store here), barbecues, picnics and random events. It is, however, their evening offer that has earned them 10,000 Facebook followers since launching in May. DJs and live music are a regular draw, and particularly enjoyed by a post-club crowd every weekend – open till 6 a.m. on days beginning with S., greeting sunrise here has become something of a pastime among heathens and night owls.

True, a tolerance to mosquitoes and other hungry critters is required, but the trade-off is quite something. That’s not to say it’s jumping all hours – visit too early, and you’re likely to find a handful of rastafarians puffing on exotic tobaccos of questionable legality. But visit at the right time, you’ll see Warsaw at its best: marquees that are rocking and a bar filled to bursting – hail, the People’s Republic of Cypel. (AW)

Bar Tektura (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 22 702 9647.

Open 12:00-last guest. Here’s a hyper cool haunt with a look anchored by brick and cardboard as the main decorative element (check the ornamental bison’s head), with additional touches including taps for coat hangers and Banksy-style wall art. And creativity is encouraged among the regulars – find pencils and papers on each table. The ‘Polski tapas’ are great, yet not nearly as good as the Estonian cider.

Bar Warszawa (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, Tel. 504 320 497. Open 24hrs.

A new bar inspired by old times. Creak upstairs to find a womb-like space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations like vintage radios, pics of old stars and black and white images of bare-breasted ladies. Run as a side hobby by a TV producer, the opening hours meet with full approval.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest. One of the hits of 2012, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary film posters and some token pics of military hardware (pointing at Tel Aviv Cafe across the road). Androgynous staff deal out Lithuanian beer and Lebanese starters from behind a sandbag bar in this standout café-bar.

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NIGHTLIFE Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia). Open 11:00last guest. It’s been five years since Bierhalle tapped their first beer, and in those five years they’ve nailed the market. Fantastic Pils served in a boozy, Bavarian atmopshere, and a decent menu to iron out any hunger issues.

Browar de Brasil (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 76/80, tel. 534 600 990, www.browardebrasil.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Four house lagers served by sexy soccerettes dressed in tight Brazil tops. Featuring blood rose colors and deep, dark woods (a glass floor, even!), the interiors combine

well with the copper brewing vats. The food though is amateurish, and at times inedible.

*

The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub.pl.

An all-weather terrace is where smokers congregate to eye up the passing talent, while inside features of the Bulldog include Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. Going ‘dogging’ has already become a favorite pastime for Brit ex-pats, with Sky Sports and an English gastro pub menu adding an extra three points. Their cocktails, fixed using lager and Guinness as base ingredients, will knock you for six.

Browarmia (C3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. The location alone means it’s never short on footfall. Even so, with Browar de Brasil now open, this microbrewery has slipped further down the local Warsaw beer ladder.

Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 523 749 160. Open 12:00-5:00 With its harsh lights, white tiles and collapsible tables this could pass for a school canteen – at least it would if the customers weren’t too cool for school. There’s serious posing going on in between drinks, and you’re clearly a no-mark if you weren’t at the launch. Still in their infancy, prepare for teething problems: e.g., running out of lager.

Café Colombia (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www. colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Vast windows, vibrant colors and wide open spaces make it the polar opposite of the covert cocktail dens we usually like.

But my God, the drinks here are special. The Chili Manhattan Dream is outstanding, and the Espressotini to die for – and after ordering eight we nearly did. Also on the roster, a range of impressive international beers.

Cafe Kulturalna (C4) Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, www.kulturalna.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience.

Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754.

Open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest.

Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good.

Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student

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art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river.

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Cud nad Wisłą (E2) ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie, tel. 533 649 561, www.cudnadwisla.pl. Open 10:00-last guest.

What summer drinking should be about. Deckchairs and cushions abound in this riverside spot, and it excels at night when twinkly lights reflect off the inky black waters. The live music does its bit to ensure it’s never a quiet night.

Czeska Baszta Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego. Open TuesThurs, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00.

Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish glow, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

Czysta Ojczysta (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-4:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00.

Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo.

Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar (E6) ul. Mokotowska 43. Open 12:00-23:00.

Checkered floor tiles, pristine whites and classic pictures of the rich and famous announce Flaming. The guys look like Bond villains and the gals just like Bond girls, but don’t think it’s a closed shop. With glasses of Moet starting below zł. 50 it’s accessible to all.

But forget the champagne, it’s their cocktails we love. Order oysters and let the night take its course.

Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 502 070 916, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. Open MonThur 18:00-1:00, Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00.Even in an area known for its dive scene Hydrozagadka stands apart as something a little different.

Competition is cutthroat in Praga, but even so this place wins the gong for most dismal interior – congrats. Looking like it’ll

fall apart at any given signal, The H earns plaudits for weekends that whizz past in a blur of hedonism.

Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 22 826 2533, www.irishpubmiodowa.pl. Open daily 11:00-last guest. Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night.

Jimmy Bradley’s (C4) Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654 6656, www.jimmybradleys.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. The ex-pat world had a minor meltdown this year with the news that landlord Kevin Bradley had left the pub bearing his name. Fortunately, the pub itself is still very much alive, kicking and Warsaw’s best Irish haunt. Along with the new front man come plenty of promises and pledges for more music, more TVs and an atmosphere that’s even more family friendly. Frankly, we don’t care if it’s Al Quaida friendly, so long as they continue the tradition of serving Poland’s best Guinness.

Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 41, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00-last guest. Complimented by soft, lazy grooves, conversation comes fuelled by a fridge filled to bursting with diverse labels from Łomża and Gniewosz. Rounding out the art-mosphere, find a tubby looking dog nosing happily under tables. Decorated with birdhouses and wobbly plastic seats, it’s further proof that Praga cool has penterated mainland Warsaw.

Kosmos Kosmos (D6) ul. Koszykowa 55, tel. 602 108 366. Open 11:00-last guest. A large cellar complex decorated with outlandish space murals, orange seats and lego bricks. And in the front, find a kids room complete with a slide. Warsaw’s hipster faction have already attached themselves to it, with the opening drawing a crowd of hundreds milling outside.

Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Dwarfish in size, Kwadrat offers a magnificent selection of quirky beers from

the lesser known breweries of backwater Poland. Arty in spirit, but never pretentious, it’s the neighborhood bar you wished you lived next to.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640.

Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background.

*

Lolek (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), tel.

22 825 6202, www.lolekpub.pl. Open daily 11:00-03:00. A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a park-centered location.

Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open fire, inside this classic rough-and-ready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged.

Lorelei (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 605 066 775. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-01:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-05:00. A brill place with black and white interiors touched up with cool lighting and walls layered with comic strip pics. The real plus are the people, an approachable bunch always happy to practice their English.

Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. Open 17:00-last guest.

Lots of middle aged hipsters wearing Teletubby t-shirts here, but they’re easy to ignore after beer No. 5. Touting sixty regional beers, the design doesn’t evolve beyond jam jars for lights and a blackboard for prices – it doesn’t need anything else to work; similar to a backstreet New York dive, it’s got an effortless cool and a permanent buzz.

Meta na Mazowieckiej (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 16/22. Open 11:00-6:00.

Filled with Breznev-era leftovers the latest venue from the Meta brand is a larger version of the Foksal original. Posters and vinyl (even a motorbike) from the PRL years decorate the walls, with the bulk of the action taking place in the smoking room in the back.

Molly Malone’s (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 41, tel. 693 333 954, www.mollymalone.pl.

Open 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00. You’re not going to miss it: standing on street level, an elderly gent in top hat and tails waves customers in. Resist. Set over two floors, ground level features a narrow wood carved bar, while upstairs find music paraphernalia, benches and, in our case, a band called Gangbang rehearsing for later. Forget the name, it’s a Polish pub for local students.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps.

Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D2) ul. Nowy Świat 63, tel. 509 643 639.

Open Sun-Thu 11:00-3:00; Fri-Sat, 11:00-5:00.

A student heavy, leftist leaning cafe where laptops and portfolios are must have accessories. Rumors are though, they’re about to enter a battle with the city to secure their future.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl.

Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. Housed on floor 40 of the Marriott Hotel, the Panorama Bar has ditched it’s crass, Dallas style, and gone for a svelte, chic look that wouldn’t be amiss in a VIP club room. A romantic must, and all the better for its dazzling views; you can almost touch the top of the Palace of Culture outside.

Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open 9:00-last guest.

Engaged in suicidal cocktail consumption along with high rollers and jet set glamor pusses. Slick and sooth, Poland’s first proper cocktail chain continue to set the bar high with excellent drinks and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16. Open 9:00-last guest.

Decorated in voluptuous Bordeaux colors, the design involves mismatching seats and tiled lampshades, and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives, musicians and other fringe dwellers. A big friendly dog loafing around and improvised music nights round out this Insider legend. And when they say they’re open to last guest, they really do mean it.

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NIGHTLIFE Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A. Open 11:00-last guest.

Featuring gun-metal grey colors and cool catwalk sounds, this courtyard bar shares space with a design store of the same name: the kind which sells animal print deckchairs and lamps made from Jesus statues. The cocktails are fixed using mad scientist, molecular techniques and include the excellent vodka foam Dr. Collins Killer.

Pijalnia (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19A, tel. 796 110 000. Open 24hrs. For a contrived look at what drinking was like in Warsaw, circa 1980, a trip to Pijalnia is a must. Bow tied staff serve vodka shots and pickles from behind a tiled bar, to a crowd that gets younger as the day grows older. In design terms it’s the polar opposite of Sense next door, but claims a similar crowd as the night hits fever pitch. In quieter times, checks the newspapered walls to read up on commie sports reports.

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Plac Zabaw ul. Myśliwiecka 9 (Park Agrykola). Open 12:004:00. Owned by the same dudes behind Plan B, the name translates as ‘Playground’. With a low-key, open air set-up in the wooded bit under Trasa Łazienkowska, from an aesthetic point there’s little to write home about. Even so, with summer in song you’ll find it rocking into the wee, early hours.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Plan B is a byword for everything that’s hip and happening in Warsaw. Design doesn’t even come into the equation in this grubby upstairs bar, but the free spirits can’t get enough of it.

Pochwała Niekonsekwencji ul. Grójecka 118, tel. 22 823 1898. Open 10:00-1:00. As avant-garde as they come, you’d expect this sort of place in Praga, not the heart of Ochota. Filled with dog-eared books and contemporary art you’ll find the day’s offers chalked on the blackboard; among them, gourmet beers from obscure, offbeat breweries.

Porto Praga (F1) ul. Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www. portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 12:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.Some of Poland’s best cocktails knocked up by acrew of pros who know their trade inside out.Looking slinky smooth, PP is a one-stop destination:

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a top restaurant and bar shaken into one.

Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. Shots of vodka and plates of Polish stomach liners are dispensed inside a mirrored environment with droopy plants. It’s an after club must, with stern service guaranteed from agitated oldies dressed in tuxedos. Packed to the brim come three, four even five am.

Pub Lolek (B8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), entrance from Żwirki i Wigury, tel. 22 825 6202, www.lolekpub.pl. Open daily 11:0003:00. The outdoor patio is packed in the summer, with the Żywiec flowing and kiełbasa grilling, while in winter a basic timber interior fills out come weekends.

Resort (C2) ul. Bielańska 1, tel. 535 350 997.

Open 12:00-last guest. One of the best designs of 2011, with pretty much all interior features made from reusable materials: seats from shopping trolleys, tables from street signs and a bar from books. Shame about the one dimensional beer choice, therefore.

Saturator (Praga) ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 504 353 7772, www.saturator.art.pl. Open 19:00-last guest.

Dirty and daring, nights at Saturator start off quiet before erupting into a full-on party for people of all proclivities. Definitely gives you a taste of Warsaw’s naughty side, with music coming courtesy of figures like DJ Ladyboy and Electrohell.

Sense (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest. Design elements include natural stone and cool lighting, though the real draw are the drinks: don’t be swayed by the nay’sayers, Sense is still top of the tree when it comes to Poland’s best cocktails.

BEST WAWA 2011 “Cocktails” Winner Sketch (E4) ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch. pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00; upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. Cool, sophisticated and fun. The international spread of beers is impressive, practically unbeatable in fact, and served inside edgy minimalist interiors.

SomePlace Else (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton), tel. 22 450 6707.

Open Mon 12:00-24:00, Tue-Thur 12:00-2:00,

Sat 16:00-2:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. SPE have a new cosmopolitan look that makes use of a glowing bar, Minsk grey colours and exposed piping. Certainly the hippest of the hotel gang, live music and expert cocktails make sure it draws more than the lodgers upstairs.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49. Open Sun-Thur 15:0023:00; Fri-Sat 15:00-1:00. The intimate layout makes use of wobbly antiques, sofas covered in velvety fabrics and weird extras like a mannequin donning a Russian hat with furry, flappy ears. Nights typically involve lots of yet-to-be-famous beers (e.g. Stare Misto from Ukraine), while the lamp-lit toilet, seemingly built into a pre-war fireplace, is like stepping through the looking glass.

Spotkanie ze Szpiegiem (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.

You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit.

Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, www. syrenispiew.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 17:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00. Created by the same chaps behind the cult Warszaswa Powisle, SS is everything that the former isn’t. Set inside a 70s concrete monster this retro affair guns for a more seasoned, affluent crowd with an over 21 door policy and 80 types of whisky that range from the Welsh Penderyn and the Japanese Hibiki. Expect the bank balance to take a mauling: fifty złoty for a Lynchburg lemonade warrants a public enquiry.

Szparka (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16A, tel. 22 621 0370.

Open 24hrs. It looks like a generic, city center bar, and while no longer a hip, happening haunt it’s as popular as ever with a middleaged crowd. Set on numerous levels, its open hours alone demand Szparka’s inclusion to any Going Out list.

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open SunThu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00.

More than just a Tex Mex joint, this is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong

group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.Located in a former ticket shack, this place is all PRL concrete and peeling signage. Looking cheap and chipboard, visual diversions are limited to frayed posters promoting upcoming bands.

Instead, the eye candy comes in the form of the people.

Wiatraki (D4) ul. Kubusia Puchatka 8, tel. 828 4034.

Open daily 11:00-22:00. A backstreet, Dutch-owned haunt where great snacks and sandwiches are overshadowed only by the beer – find a series of gourmet Benelux beers inside this friendly, two-floor operation.

Zmysły (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 20, tel. 662 635 552. Open 10:00-22:00. A pint of Perła for zł. 6.50? We’ll have ten. Hitting that half-ground between restaurant and pub, Zmysły reminds of an upscale country pub. Dark woods, vaulted brick ceilings, candles: it’s got atmosphere in abundance. Low prices keep it popular with a studenty crowd.

Znajomi Znajomych (D5) ul. Wilcza 58A. Open Sun-Thurs 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-5:00. We’re not sure what kind of design they’ve opted for on the ground level, but either way it doesn’t work. Head upstairs instead to join the hipsters spread across a host of (smoking) rooms. It’s here Zna Zna comes into its own, with a set of chambers decorated in eclectic retro style – including one room which some would describe as a Ron Jeremy orgy room. Things get hot and sticky on their weekend club nights.

CLUBS 1500m2 (F4) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. The most talked about dance space of 2010, and further evidence that Warsaw is catching up with Berlin when it comes to urban cool. Decorated with graffiti squiggles and industrial leftovers this warehouse space has acquired a name for dusk-till-dawn electro events.

18/11 Club by Theatro (E4)

ul. Foksal 18, www.theatro1811.com. Open Wed-Sat 18:00-6:00. A neon-lit basement space with smashed-glass surfaces and exotic undertones. Expect a top-dollar crowd slinking to the sounds of a bloke called Nobis.

Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl. A massive space, sparkly chandelier and Moscow-style, over-the-top décor and regal staircases. Free entry or zł.30 for Hed Kandi events.

DeLite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub.com.

Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest. Exposed brick pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror set-up in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, pretty-in-pink, spaceship interiors. Joining the top table of Warsaw’s other ‘uber klubs’ De Lite gets even better once access to the VIP room is scored.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:004:00. Enklawa borders its glitz on kitsch but every weekend, it manages to draw in big crowds with its lineup of club and pop hits.

The dance floor is always packed, even on weekdays, and it’s a surefire winner as the top Wednesday in town.

The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open Wed-Fri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest. Beauty and booty come first in The Eve, a blinged up offshoot of Platinium nearby. A cutthroat door policy ensures plenty of egos crash and die at the door, and it’s got a Bacchanalian reputation for champagne popping high jinks. Observe them through the one way mirror in the VIP room.

Hunters’ (D4) ul. Jasna 1, tel. 606 393 540, www.huntersclub.pl. Open 22:00-6:00.

Rising from the ashes of what was once Utopia is Hunters’, a high-end venue whose entry policy is every bit as daunting as that of the prior occupants. Aimed at a glam, fox-tailed crowd, this basement dance zone features factory grey colours interspersed with murals of tux-clad deer and ornamental mirrors. With nights like Gay Cum Back, it’s very much the VIP gay/straight/confused venue of choice.

Klubokawiarnia (D3) ul. Czackiego 8, www.klubo.pl. Open daily

21:00-last guest. If you ignore the latent fire hazard presented by this basement dive club then a Warsaw stalwart awaits. Writhing like a can of sweating worms, find a mid-20s party crowd enjoying house sounds inside a scabby looking space with flea bitten pics of Lenin & Co. Enter via a side door in the courtyard gateway and let the battle begin.

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La Playa ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, www.laplaya.pl.

Mix-up surf inspired cocktails, lager in plastic glasses, a volleyball net, lounge chairs and some spontaneous samba, and you get the most unexpected beach party you’d ever imagine. If you’re feeling particularly daring, go skinny dipping in the murky, muddy Wisła.

Luzztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luzztro.pl. Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty?

Then check Luzztro, a grim, grotty den where rules don’t apply. Embedded in folklore, this after-party legend really kicks off at around 5am, when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the finishing touches to their saucereyed stare. Your No. 1 choice for electro and minimal, it’s the full-tilt clubbing experience.

Your head will hate you.

Organza (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 662 291 891. The address is everything in Warsaw, which is why you’ll find Organza moving approximately fifty meters from Sienkiewciza to Mazowiecka.

With the number of clubs now reaching critical mass here, Organza still stands out with late, late nights and a door policy slightly more relaxed than its neighbors.

Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. A labyrinth of passageways and chambers await in Opera, a subterranean club located underneath the National Theater. Touting an exotic, far eastern look, it’s one of the best designed clubs you could imagine.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, www.platiniumclub.pl. Open Wed-Sat 20:006:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now.

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NIGHTLIFE Powiększenie (F4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 503 118 088.

Open 11:00-last guest. From the same team behind Plan B; larger in size, the downstairs hosts cool international and domestic acts.

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Silk Pl. Powstańców 2. Open Fri-Sat 20:00-6:00.

There’s a sense of the exclusive about Silk, what with its black canopied entrance and blinged up crowd. Inside exposed pipework and glittery pillars fit along nicely with the pop art murals and hip hop sounds – the dance floor is an extrovert’s arena.

Space Club (A5) ul. Kolejowa 37/39, tel. 606 617 228, www.club-space.eu. Open Fri-Sat 23:00-6:00.

A true techno club with crazy lights, a great sound system, big name DJs, and lots of room to waggle about and enjoy Ibiza flashbacks.

Sqandal Rynek Starego Miasta 1/3, tel. 602 876 776, www.sqandalbar.pl. Open Tues-Thurs 19:002:00; Fri-Sat 19:00-5:00. Jiggle under disco lights alongside buffed boys with their chest puffed out. Over the top glittery interiors compliment the pink and proud crowd.

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Utopia (D3) ul. Kredytowa 9. Formerly of Jasna, Warsaw’s first club to bring in serious door selection is back, and this time within a throw of the main party drag. Flying under a pseudo pink banner, it’s a love or loathe venue full of A-Z list stars and their hangers on.

GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS Coyote (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, www.coyotebar.eu.

Coyote Bar marks the start of the Mazowiecka, err, strip, and features a small bar in front and a just-about-larger room outback. Stage action is tame, and doesn’t get all that much better behind the curtain.

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Hustler (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 3, www.hustlerclub.pl. There’s a good dozen clubs jostling for the title of Warsaw’s top strip club, but this newly launched gents club is better than most. Find top notch talent swinging their hips for tips, and an XXX Factor that shoots off the scale. If strippers are judged by looks, this place earns a ten.

Libido ul. Kredytowa 9, www.libidoklub.pl. It’s practically round the corner from the Zachęta Gallery, though you’ll probably enjoy the masterpieces here more. Run by the same team behind Sofia, this three floor mega club makes use of a location just up from Warsaw’s favorite upmarket party street: Mazowiecka.

New Orleans ul. Zgoda 11, tel. 22 826 4831, www.neworleans. pl. Open 21:00-4:00.

High rollers looking to clinch in a deal in unusual surrounds should consider doing so in New Orleans: a ‘gentleman’s club’ with a seriously upmarket VIP dining area. Dishes

7TH SENSE WBC GENTLEMAN’S CLUB • Only club in Warsaw with Jacuzzi room • Open every day from 8 PM till last guest • We organize bachelor parties, stag nights and hen night Żurawia 22, Warsaw 514-910-323

include red tuna steak (zł. 199), Kobe beef (zł.

999), and French lobster (zł. 299). $$$ Playhouse Al. Solidarności 82A, www.playhouse.com.pl.

Housed in a former bomb shelter, would you believe it. Now though the talk is of bombshells, namely the 57 they’ve got on their books. Like most clubs, this place features a distinctly Slavic lineup of Poles, Russians and Ukrainians.

Seventh Sense (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 795 124 646.

Strip clubs are a dime a dozen in Wa-wa nowadays, so to stand from the crowd you need something different – how about a jacuzzi room? Or a yellow ‘bar bus’ kitted out with lap dancing poles. Gimmicks aside, having a intimate, luxury atmosphere helps their cause, as does the requisite line-up of centerfold candidates.

Sin ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, www.sinclub.com. pl. One of the biggest and best dance stables in town offers a pleasingly international lineup that demonstrates a serious recruitment drive. You won’t find a more central strip club in town.

Sofia ul. Polna 13, www.klubsofia.pl. A.k.a The Bulgarian Embassy, Sofia have rebuilt the reputation earned during their city center heyday in the naughty noughties. Sure, the atmosphere is more restrained than in their former location, but the dancers aren’t.

Sogo (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.sogoclub.pl.

The neon lit exterior would dazzle from space.

Inside, find a vast strip club that opens up over a couple of floors. Dancers are in plentiful supply, with several resembling fallen angels. The bouncers are less approachable and don’t tolerate monkey business – tread carefully.

JAZZ Tygmont Jazz Club (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl. Open daily 16:00-4:00.

For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics.

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WARSAW INSIDER | JULY 2012

Reviews: QπШ - Robert Kupisz 61 Plus:

* 2 updates

SHOPPING

ACCESSORIES 63 / FASHION 61 / HOME DECOR 64 / SHOPPING MALLS 64

Insider’s Pick

FASHION Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs.

The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Bizuu ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 609 888 363, www.bizuu.pl. A gorgeous, feminine collection from two talented Polish designers – including, the must need pastels of the coming season.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48 (courtyard), tel. 690 021 787, www.robertkupisz.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF QΠШ - ROBERT KUPISZ

I

t’s time to bring the focus back to Polish designers for a change. Robert Kupisz is currently all the rage among Warsaw’s fashionistas. Kupisz is one of the most charming characters on the style scene, having evolved from a professional dancer to celebrity hairstylist and most recently one of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons. After dabbling with design for a few years he finally decided to open up a flagship boutique in Warsaw, plus offshoots in Poznań and Kraków. In Warsaw the boutique is a decidedly low-key setup and not so easy to find, hidden in the courtyard at Mokotowska 48.

There are more than a few hidden goodies found here, most notably the Ale Wino wine shop and bar, which serves up some amazing wines and nibbles in their quaint little patio. It’s actually the wine bar that brought me to Kupisz in the first place, as I snooped around after having a few glasses of wine and crostini.

Walking up the steps I felt for a second like I was on vacation in Italy, especially with the recent heat waves in Warsaw and the deck chairs flanking the entrance. Inside it’s a snug little place with a hair salon setup on one side and racks of soft leathers, denims, cottons and silks on the other. While some of the pieces are a bit too raw for me – I’m more of a pencil skirt and cardigan sort of chick – there are a few items that really caught my eye, such as a luxuriously soft black leather jacket and comfy maxi dresses in hand-dyed fabrics. And that’s the real clincher: all the clothes are made by hand for every aspect of production – cutting, sewing, dyeing, distressing.

The biggest hit of the bunch? Definitely the distressed Polish Eagle t-shirt in a range of cool pastels, available just in time for the Euro. Seen them around town? This is the place to get them for a cool 350 zees. His latest collection, presented at the end of May in Warsaw, is a tribute to Americana: sexy, disheveled cowgirls on the prairie in flouncing dresses that hover and sway in dreamy fabrics as light as the summer breeze. (AL)

Blind Cafe Concept Store (D6) ul. Mokotowska 63/100 (courtyard).

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 13:00-18:00.

This eclectic 50’s-style place is well-stocked with unique pieces for women and cool gadgets for men. A perfect place for those who are looking for something more than a mall for a style fix.

Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00.

A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander. The current collection is a true tribute to S/S 2012 - bright colours, florals, platform heels and wedges.

Clue (E3) ul. Solec 101, tel. 22 695 7897, www.cluefashion.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Clue stocks items from Moschino, ASOS, DKNY, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Cavalli, Steve Madden, Armani, as well as up-and-coming designers, and a number of children’s brands.

Designer Secret Al. Witosa 31 (1st floor, outlet 119), CH Panorama, tel. 506 051 048, www.designersecret.pl. High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with women and men’s apparel from the 2008-2010 collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price.

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SHOPPING Ermenegildo Zegna (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7000, www. zegna.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Everything for the well-dressed man, from suits to belts, and sportswear.

Flaming & Co. (D6) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 629 0545, www.flaming-co.com.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00.

This concept store, now re-opened on ul.

Mokotowska after renovation work, brings a fresh seaside breeze to Warsaw. Also checkout the branch of Flaming & Kids on ul. Mokotowska.

Joanna Klimas (B2) ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, www.joannaklimas.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:0020:00. One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion.

Justyna Chrabelska (by appt) (E6) tel. 502 437 200, info@justynachrabelska. com, www.justynachrabelska.com. One of Warsaw’s most talented designers runs her own showroom in the center solely by appointment. With stylish, feminine dresses or funky contemporary dresses each season,

this is the place to score the perfect dress, whether you’re a celebrity or just want to dress like one.

L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680.

Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.

Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho.

Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Loft Fashion ul. Burakowska 5/7 (2nd floor), tel. 22 636 0255, www.loft-fashion.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Everything the businessman requires: suits, shirts, shoes and cigars. Impeccable tri-lingual service in a top location. In July you can enjoy a summer clearance with 70% off.

Luxury & Liberty (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. Once a bar, its fashion counterpart managed to come back in style with a sprawling new boutique in the Promenada shopping centre. While the location’s a bit inconvenient, the selection of quality designer gear at L&L and other shops makes it well worth the trip.

Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759 ul. Żurawia 2, tel. 22 628 2217 snob@snobissimo.pl, www.snobissimo.pl

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WARSAW INSIDER | JULY 2012

Deha, Gianvito Rossi, Sona Rykiel, Les Copains, Paule Ka, Jimmy Choo, Giuseppe Zanotti, Wolford, Sergio Rossi

Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom.

Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, office@moliera2.com, www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-

19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@ plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo.

Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories.

Premiere (A2) Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710. The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace.

Redford and Grant (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00.

This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada.

Reykjavik District (F4) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, www.reykjavikdistrict.com. Open Tues-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Chic, wellcut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Rodrigo de la Garza (Ochota) ul. Bema 65, suite 6; www.delagarza.it.

Opening hours: by appointment. Rodrigo de la Garza is an eponymous menswear label started up by an ambitious young man from Mexico who’s happened to opt for Poland as his home base. The designer’s speciality is custom-made, or bespoke suits, ideally cut and in all the styles and patterns you could possibly conjure up.

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See Me Boutique ul. Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 0404. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Major pieces from American and European designers, including Paul & Joe, as well as the Elizabeth and James line from the Olsen twins.

Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, www. snobissimo.pl. Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

The only organic market in Warsaw

ACCESSORIES Batycki (various locations) ul. Zgoda 9 & ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Bristol Hotel), tel. 22 828 2167, www.batycki.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00. Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite.

Church’s (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00.

A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes.

Frey Wille (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, www.frey-wille.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Viennabased jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, www.mokotowska63.com.

Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Hublot Boutique (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. 22 821 0101.

This luxury boutique features the most coveted timepieces in all the world.

Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, www.lilou.pl.

Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

Fresh fruit and vegetables Dairy products, free range eggs Bread and pastry Meat, poultry and cold meats Wine and beer Cosmetics and cleaning products

CERTIFIED ORGANIC PRODUCTS Warszawa Żelazna 51/53 (former Norblin factory) every Saturday 8:00-16:00 ECO EVENTS! EVERY FIRST SATURDAY OF THE MONTH WE EXCHANGE ELECTRO WASTE FOR ECO GIFTS! payment in cash or by card (on selected stands) free parking for clients

JOIN US ON FACEBOOK UNDER THE PATRONAGE OF:

Pracovnia Czasu ul. Wiejska 14, tel. 622 12 12, www.pracowniaczasu.pl. Luxury watches from

facebook.com/warsawinsider

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SHOPPING brands like Corum, Vulcain, Ulysee Nardin, Magellan and Fortis.

HOME DECOR Bo Concept (A1) ul. Młocińska 5/7, tel. 22 636 7770. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00. Lovely, clean lines make this one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home. ego&eco (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35, tel. 22 826 2512. www.egoeco.eu. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. Stocks everything from unique handmade jewellery to pure linen hand towels, traditional honey and organic soaps.

Combines style with an eco-philosophy.

Mokotowska 71 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629 0511, www.mokotowska71.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style. An ideal place for brides-to-be to register, as service in MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, NEW CITY building (Mokotów), tel. 22 360 4389, www.moomo.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number

are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm.

Fashion House Outlet Centre (E8) ul. Puławska 42E, www.fashionhouse.pl

Numero Uno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, www.numerouno.pl. Exclusive furniture and fittings with brands including Poggenpohl, Presotto Italia, Calia Italia, EGO zeroventiquattro, Masiero, Bang & Olufsen and Porsche.

Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15. Open Mon-Thurs 9:0021:30; Fri 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00

Red Onion (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339; ul. Szpitalna 8, tel. 22826 0008.

Open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-18:00. www.redonion.pl. Their new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget.

Scandinavian Living ul. Górnośląska 33, tel. 22 629 0361, www.scandinavianliving.pl.

Furniture, home design and fashion from Scandinavian brands such as Swedese, Odd Molly, Bloomingville and Marimekko.

SHOPPING MALLS Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 Blue City (A6) Al. Jerozolimskie 179, www.bluecity.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00

Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, www.klif.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Promenada (Saska Kępa) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, www.promenada.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00 Vitkac Wolf Bracka Wolf Center, ul. Bracka 9, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega, Yves Saint Laurent, etc…

Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

reykjavík district “The clothes are chic, cut well and there is a bit of everything for everyone...”

Warsaw Insider chose reykjavik district as their shop of the month (12.2011)

Boutique: Solec 18/20 street, +48 505 499 669 Open: Tue-Fri 13:00-19:30; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00 www.reykjavikdistrict.pl

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Reviews: Museum of Sport & Tourism 65 / Plus:

CHILDREN

* 4 updates

ACTIVITIES 65 / CAFES 66 / EDUCATION 66

Insider’s Pick

ACTIVITIES Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, www.kopernik.org.pl. A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

Little Chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16.

Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cookand-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit www.littlechef.pl or call 0501 093 691 for more information.

Museum of Sport & Tourism ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4, tel. 22 56 03 780, www.muzeumsportu.waw.pl/en.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

M

y daughter isn’t ever likely to be the ‘Sports Personality of the Year’. Like me, her idea of an adrenaline rush is finding a good book and turning its pages for regular exercise. But after a month of football related questions and the imminence of London’s 2012 Olympics, it’s about time I explained to her the concepts of healthy competition, winners, losers, trophies, medals and team work. Actually, I thought daddy could do it! So in an attempt to look sporty we hopped on our bicycles, took to the sporadic cycle paths and pedaled our way to The Museum of Sport and Tourism.

The museum is housed in the appropriately named ‘Olympic Centre’ and set in green parkland bordering on to the river Wisła. On Saturday entrance is free. Sporting our cyclist’s glow we sprinted up the steep suspension pathway, spiraling to the first floor and began our journey through the history of sport.

Text relating to the exhibition is in Polish, so I strongly advise renting an English language mp3 player or springing for the zł. 40 that will get you a ‘real’ guide around the museum. The space is very open plan, so while I headed obediently toward the ‘start’ (an ancient Greek pot) nostalgia led daddy in the opposite direction: the football paraphernalia. But before we had time to absorb any facts our daughter was challenging us to a race on a 50m track that stretched the length of the museum. After a brief attempt to get on our marks and get set (harder than one thinks), she screamed ‘go’ and we were off. Of course, I’d have won were it not for the hurdle.

The permanent exhibition consists of vintage/modern day memorabilia from horse riding to hockey, fencing to football, gymnastics to snowboarding alongside an array of polished silverware that will trigger even the faintest of competitiveness. With birthday party opportunities and Moonsfera, the top floor fancy restaurant, this is an activity worthy of a family day out and perfect for igniting an interest in the Olympic spectacle. (GBB)

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.

Over 300 locations worldwide, with the first one in Poland opened last November. Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

Manufatura Cukierow ul. Tamka 49, www.manufaktura-cukierkow. pl. Sweet making courses in a confectionary factory! Lessons are conducted in Polish, though enthusiasm is more important than a mastery of the language.

Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.com. A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless. For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web.

Patataj ul. Krótka 9, www.patataj.com.

Patataj offer riding lessons and pony trekking

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CHILDREN in a scenic location 25 mins from Warsaw.

Polish is the mother tongue here, but actions speak louder than words where riding is concerned. Finish the day in the karczma.

Teatr Guliwer ul. Różana 16, www.teatrguliwer.waw.pl.

Well worth a visit, even for non-Polish speakers. An exciting colorful premises with creative costumes make this the choice place to introduce the kids to theater.

Tramwaj Wodny www.zegluga-stoleczna.pl. One of the few boats to be seen on the river chugs up and down the Wisła from May onwards. The crew, dressed in pirate-like stripes, are even happy to let the children have a tug on the wheel.

Warsaw Zoo ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, www.zoo.waw.pl. The hippopotami now have an indoor and outdoor pool, the gorillas a new pavilion, and the arrival of a shark means it now has an ‘aquarium’. This year though, all eyes are on three tiger cubs born in Feb.

CAFES Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, figazmakiem.edu.pl. One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones

romp in the kids room.

Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl.

Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with a garden/playground, Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials.

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Kosmos Kosmos ul. Koszykowa 55. Open 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-last guest. The design fuses retro with rock, while the children’s area comes with a handmade puppet theater, cardboard castle and enticing kids menu. ‘Fun workshops’ take place at noon each Saturday.

Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561, www.kredkafe.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00.

The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows.

Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space.

My Baby Café ul. Nowoursynowska 147, www.mybabycafe. pl. A bright and airy café serving good food and great coffee at reasonable prices.

Downstairs is the Holy Grail – shiny new toys,

a mini kitchen for the girls, a tool bench for the boys, and a large playhouse (real doorbell and all!). They even provide a nanny at no extra cost! Paradise for kids and heaven for Mums.

Pompon (Wola) ul. Młynarska 13, www.pompmart.pl.

An organic menu and a gated play area equipped with slides, rope bridges and a selection of Wendy houses mark out Pompon, while the Nintendo Wii room is as popular with dads as it is with their lads.

Nowa Kuźnia (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, www.nowakuznia.pl. In the seasonal garden, the sandpit comes with a kid-sized bulldozer that makes you wish you were a munchkin again. For the colder temperatures, check out the indoor play area. The kids menu equally impresses.

Numery Litery (D5) ul. Wilcza 26, www.numerylitery.pl.

Deep sofas aside, compact Numery Litery gets it right with a gargantuam selection of books to inspire your budding bookworm to literary greatness. Plenty of reading matter for the adults, as well.

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Sto900 (E3) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 787 696 241. Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. Popular with trendy families wheeling retro prams, Sto900 has a separate children’s zone with a playschool feel.

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Umpa Lumpa ul.Mickiewicza 24, tel. 22 245 1909, umpalumpa.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00. Bit part café, most part candy store. Colorfully designed, shelves here feature an array of rainbow colored lollipops, sweets and chocolate. Spoil your toddler, and yourself while you’re there.

EDUCATION PRESCHOOLS

Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów),mob.

502 355 919, www.trampoline.edu.pl.

This preschool has a lingual profile and offers bilingual teaching with French and English.

They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching.

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The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777; ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Primary, Secondary, IB Diploma program), tel. 22 842-3281; www.thebritishschool.pl. The British School provides special classes from the pre-nursery group – including children from preschool through secondary school.

Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool (C11) ul. Kalatówki 24, tel. 22 898 3139, 697 979 100. The pre-school branch of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides both Polish and International 3-5 year olds with the perfect setting for their first encounters with English and French in an inquiry based classroom. Here, every task relates to real life experience and skills. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: preschool@canadian-school.pl.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www. warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com.

Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl.

The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.monte ssoriacademy. eu. An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

SCHOOLS

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel.

22 702 8500, fax 022 702 8500, admissions@ aswarsaw.org, www. aswarsaw.org. The American School of Warsaw provides comprehensive programs and facilities based on a US system of education for ages 4 to 18.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw with comprehensive programs and facilities based on the British system of education.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School Unit ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646 9289, 697 970 244.

The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 6-10 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provides for an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include pottery, dance, ballet, capoeira, karate, emotional intelligence, art studio and tennis. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: secretary@canadian-school.pl.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16, tel./fax: 22 616 1499, www.saintexupery.pl. Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 2½ years old.

The English Playhouse (F12) ul. Płyćwiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, www.theenglishplayhouse. com. The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows

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CHILDREN The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 20, tel. 697 977 600, 697 979 300. The Middle and High unit of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 11-19 year olds. With both Canadian and Polish curricula content students are given the opportunity to choose between Polish Matura or IB Diploma exams. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: mid.high@canadian-school.pl.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children two

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to eight years old (3rd year of primary school) in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers.

International European School ul. Wiertnicza 75, tel. 22 842 4448, ies@ies-warsaw.pl. In operation since 2002 the International European School teaches the Polish National Curriculum in English language to both primary and mid-school level.

Kid’s Academy Primary & Pre-School ul. Arbuzowa 33D (Wilanów), ul. Łąkowa 38 (Konstancin), tel. 501 205 080, www.kidsacademy.com.pl. A Private English - Polish School which provides an excellent early educational program for children from ages 2.5 - 5 years old and at the Primary School, from Grade 0. Combining elements of both the Polish and British curriculum, the focus is on creating a positive and vibrant learning environment. They’re also proud of their large playground and variety of healthy foods.

La Fontaine Polish-French Primary School ul. Okrężna 95, Mokotów, tel. 22 885 0020, www.lafontaine.edu.pl. The school has a Polish-French profile and offers bilingual teaching for children aged from 6 to 12 years old.

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Lycée Français de Varsovie ul. Walecznych 4/6, tel. 22 616 5400, www.lfv.pl. French school admitting students from the age of two years old. All instruction is in French. Languages offered : Polish, English, German, Spanish, Latin. Also, a wide variety of after school activities (sport, arts, extracurricular instruction).

Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

Reviews: Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa 69

LIFESTYLE

ACCOMODATION 69 / HEALTH & BEAUTY 71 / MEDICAL 72 / TRANSPORTATION 70

ACCOMODATION

Insider’s Pick

HOTELS IN WARSAW 5-star hotels

Hilton Warsaw (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com. Single and double room €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays).

Excellent services and amenities in a world-class hotel and conference centre.

Holmes Place Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414, www.fiuufiuu.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF FIUU FIUU DAY SPA

T

his summer I was to spend a week on a yacht off the coast of Sicily and my bikini bod was still in hibernation. We’ve all got a problem area. Me, I have a problem with my legs, especially in summer when it gets so hot and my knees and ankles swell. Picturing myself on the beach with cellulite was not what I’d planned. I’d never tried a quick fix salon but now seemed like the perfect time. So I called Fiuu Fiuu and explained my trouble. They said they’d have a solution for me when I arrived for my appointment the following day.

Pani Paulina was my lady for the day, coming to the rescue with two possible options. One being a red-hot circulation-boosting treatment, the other an ice-cold option. It was about 28 degrees so I opted for the latter; she warned me it would feel a bit extreme as the combination of menthol, camphor and other detoxifying herbs cooled down my swollen limbs, but I was up for anything it took to look good the next day when we hopped onto deck.

The massage itself was nice and gentle – Paulina doesn’t believe that a massage has to be rough to be effective. She used a series of Ericson products, explaining that the treatment is brand-new and soon enough the cooling effect began to settle in as I pushed away my discomfort with the knowledge that attaining beauty is never an easy feat. The treatment ends with a detoxifying wrap around the legs that cools them down even further for about ten minutes.

Fifteen minutes later I was unwrapped, covered in a lightweight gel and ready to survey the results. I’m no believer in miracles, but my legs were not only cool, but the skin had tightened, the puffy bits around the knees gone, the ankles darn near svelte. It was zł. 300 well invested.

The salon offers an entire range of professional face and body treatments, including facials, manis, pedis, waxing and make-up. I’ll be back towards the end of the summer to revive my sun-battered skin. In the meantime, vacation is my number one beauty treatment. (AL)

Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, www.warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. Venti Tre Italian Restaurant, Q Club Restaurant and Bar, Club Oasis Fitness Centre, indoor swimming pool, spa & massage services. Offical base of Poland’s Euro 2012 football team.

InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor.

Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com. Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169.

Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna.

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com. Muffle up for an evening prowl around old town, before spoiling yourself inside the desginer confines of this boutique masterpiece. Prices start from approx. €115, but it’s well worth your time browsing their ‘romantic break’ and ‘just married’ packages.

Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306,

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LIFESTYLE www.marriott.com/wawpl Single & double rooms: zł. 528 (weekdays), zł. 376 (weekend).

Gym and swimming pool.

The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220.

24-hour fitness centre for guests only.

Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, tel. 22 450 6100. Single & double rooms: €77126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna.

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Single & double rooms zł. 420-490 (weekend rate from zł.250). First Class Fitness Centre.

Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €95200. Swimming pool now open to the public.

Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.

4-star hotels

Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com. Single & double rooms: €60-235. 24-hour fitness centre for hotel guests only.

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.pl. Airport Hotel Okęcie is located 800 m from Warsaw Frederic Chopin Airport. Single & double rooms: €155, €123 (weekdays). Single & double rooms: €70-80 (weekends). Jacuzzi, sauna, tennis courts, and gym.

3-star hotels

Hotel Belwederski (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl. Single room: zł. 240, double room: zł. 280. On weekends 20% discount (Fri-Mon). Breakfast included.

Castle Inn (D1) Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl.

Single & double rooms (Standard castle view): zł.190-290. Deluxe apartments: zł. 279-430. Breakfast: zł. 20. Artsy boutique accomodation on the castle square. For cheaper alternative, check their downtown hostel branch, the Oki Doki

Radisson Blu (B5) pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl. Single & double rooms €60-94. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.

Golden Tulip (B5) ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500. Single & double rooms: Mon.-Fri. zł. 369, weekend: zł. 299, breakfast (buffet): zł. 32. Sauna, jacuzzi, fitness room.

Holiday Inn (C4) ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com. Single room: €100 (weekend), €124 (weekdays), double room: €120 (weekend), €144 (weekdays). Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.­

Warsaw Gromada Hotel Airport ul. 17-ego Stycznia 32, tel. 22 576 4600, warszawa.airport@gromada.pl. Single & double rooms: zł. 250-420 (weekdays), single & double rooms: zł. 200-330 (weekends). Sauna, gym, free for hotel guests.

Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4) ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl.

Single & double rooms: €78-112.

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki, www.hiexpress.com. Three minutes from the airport, the Express chapter of Holiday Inn is opening on 30 November and already accepting bookings. Check web for further details.

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Single & double rooms: €135 (weekdays), €99 (weekend).

Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.

com. Single and double rooms: zł.265-480.

Wellness centre and sauna.

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Hotel Reytan (E8) ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www. reytan.pl. Single room: zł. 360 (week), zł. 250 (weekend). Double room: zł. 390-550 (week), zł. 270-390 (weekend). Breakfast included.

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000, nov.airport@orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €120-135. Swimming pool, jacuzzi, tennis court, Finnish sauna, power plate.

APARTMENTS

Central Apart ul. Łucka 2/4/6 m.45, tel. 22 357 0975, www.wawahotele.pl. Apartments for one to four people in locations across town.

Prices from zł. 190.

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com.

Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc.

MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana. A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

P & O Apartments ul. Kasprowicza 91, tel. 22 636 8699, www.pandoapartments.com.pl.

Top One Apartments ul. Graniczna 4, tel. 608 205 769, www.topnoclegwarszawa.pl.

TRANSPORTATION CAR RENTAL

Avis (C5) tel. 22 572 6565, fax 22 572 6566, Fredrick Chopin Airport, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 650 4872/3.

Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl.

Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360.

Reservations: tel. 22 500 1620, 800 143 789.

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, fax 22 511 1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, fax 022 650 2032, www.sixt.pl.

Trust Rent a Car (C12) ul. Konstruktorska 4, mob. 0602 475 355, www.trustrentacar.pl.

RELOCATION COMPANIES AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702-1072, fax 022 702-1077.

Besto Relocations ul. Kłobucka 8 /127, tel. 22 847 8878, mob. 514 643 286, warsaw@bestorelocations.com, www.bestorelocations.com. High-quality international relocation services to and from Poland for corporate and individual clients.

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com.

Crown Relocations ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 894 5929 or 22 578 2093, www.crownrelo.com.

DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/17, tel. 22 670 4280, www.duxconsulting.com.pl.

Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com.

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, moving@euromove.pl, www.euromove.pl.

Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, fax 22 701 7177, warsaw@interdean.com, www.interdean.com. With 120 relocation service centres and employs 3,150 international relocation services staff across Europe and EMEA, and over 600 alliances worldwide.

Wawa

tel. 22 19644

HEALTH & BEAUTY SPAS & SALONS

AcuMed Asian Therapies ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355 100, www.tuina.pl. Qigong – Daoyin – Meditation in small groups. Also offers special exercises for improving physical & mental health and increasing energy.

Beauty Secret/Spa/Retreat ul. Nowowiejska 38, Józefów, tel. 22 789 2016, www.beautysecret.pl.

Located about 20 km outside of Warsaw, Beauty Secret is the place to go and recharge your batteries, relax and get pampered.

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B&B Clinic ul. Grzybowska 3, tel. 22 403 65 72, www.bbclinic. pl. An array of body and beaity treatments inside pristine five star facilities. Whether you want to slim down using the latest technologies, rejuvenate the skin or relax during a massage, there’s few better qualified. 10% for Insider readers.

Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Koszykowa 31, tel. 22 621 1404, www. nailspabiosis.pl. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries.

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160, www.bodyclinic.pl. Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Club Oasis Spa Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel.

22 851 0563, www.cluboasis.pl. Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is definitely one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw. Amazing Clarins body firming and rejuvenating treatments, deep tissue massage and luxurious La Prairie facial treatments at the beauty centre round out a healthy lifestyle.

The Cutting House – Exclusive Hairdressing (E5) ul. Wiejska 20, www.cuttinghouse.pl, tel. 22 622 6362. The Cutting Salon has an elegant polish on a contemporary design and a wide variety of celebs, diplomats and your run-ofthe-mill fashionista dropping in for a trim or a manicure. You will not be disappointed.

Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session.

Going futher East, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage, as well as all the other more typical spa services.

Dior Institute and Dessange Beauty Salon Metropolitan Building, pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 22 331 0808, www.diorinstitut.com.

Move One Relocations tel. 22 630 8160, poland@moveonerelo.com, www.moveonerelo.com. Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

TAXIS

Bayer tel. 22 19697 City Taxi tel. 22 19459 Ele Taxi tel. 22 811 11 11 Glob Taxi tel. 22 19668 Grosik Taxi tel. 22 6464646 tel. 22 677 7777 Merc Sawa tel. 22 644 4444 Super Taxi tel. 22 19622 Volfra tel. 22 19625

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LIFESTYLE This sleek boutique offers a state-of-the-art treatment room and professional staff for all your pampering needs.

Fabryka Próżnosci ul. Cecylii Śniegockiej 8 lok.101, tel. 22 312 1909, www.fabrykaproznosci.pl. Has a full suit of facials, massages (all the main schools are represented); competitive prices, and plenty of English-speaking therapists.

Fish Spa ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 22 414 3737, www.fishspainstytut.pl. Let 200 Garra Rufa fish do the work on your pedicure and manicure.

Alternatively, enjoy more traditional (ie. less fishy) facials and body massages – all at reaonable prices in the heart of the center.

Hair Club Warsaw ul. Kruczkowskiego 6, tel. 22 828 0288, www.hairclubwarsaw.pl. Hair Club dispense with the farce and make your hair look great.

They also provide manicures and pedicures and even throw in a decent free coffee.

Izar Repechage ul. Moliera 1, tel. 22 827 7195, www.repechage.net.pl. A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatment for the whole body.

Le Spa (E5) ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428.

This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

Multico Wellness & Spa

ul. Bitwy pod Rokitną 1 (in Old Żoliborz), tel. 22 869 9631, www.multico.pl. A modern fitness center and gorgeous pool make this a chic place to work out and relax.

Now offers spa services and great massages.

Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel (E8) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Fitness club, swimming pool, sauna, gym, group classes in one of Warsaw’s best five stars. zł.100 per day.

Pearl Spa at the InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, 43 floor, tel. 22 328 8643, www.pearlspa.pl. This bright and full of windows spa has an eclectic menu of “body rituals” such as the Maghreb ritual and Ayurvedic massages.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel (E5) ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton. com/warsaw. Fitness center, aerobic studio, sauna. Price: zł. 3,420/year.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, www.jejijego.pl. Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

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Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 22 582 9474, 517 012 880, www.spasungate.pl.

Open 10:00-24:00. A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments as well as a VIP room for couples.

FITNESS CLUBS

Club Oasis Fitness Centre & Spa (E8) Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 22 851 0563, www.cluboasis.pl. Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw, with state-of-the-art machines, great pool and Zen-like ambiance.

Holmes Place Lifestyle Club at the Hilton Hotel (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 630 6306, www.holmesplace.pl. Premium fitness and leisure centre that offers a wide and diverse range of activities, top quality training equipment and expert staff. Holmes Place also operates two more Energy Clubs in Galeria Mokotów and Arkadia.

RiverView Wellness Centre at the InterContinental Hotel (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8640, www.riverview.com.pl. Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the pool offers a glorious panoramic view of the city.

World Class Health Academy (B4) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, www.worldclass.pl.

Mon-Fri 6:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 8:00-21:00.

Situated inside Warsaw’s Marriott hotel, this gym offers all the fitness services you need.

MEDICAL MEDICAL PRIVATE CLINICS

AcuMed Asian Therapies – Traditional Medicine Clinic ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355 100. www.tuina.pl. Holistic treatment of spinal, headaches, stress, pains, allergies.

Austria-Dent-Center (B4) ul. Żelazna 54, tel. 22 654 2116, www.austriadent.pl.

Centrum Pomocy Profesjonalnej (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 80, floor 21, room 129, Babka Tower, tel. 22 637 4080; ul. Puławska 257 (floor 1, suite 71), Melody Park, tel. 22 241 2444, www.cpp.eu.

Dentalux ul. Racławicka 131, tel. 22 823 7222, www.dentalux.pl.

Margaret Rybak, Psy.D.

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ul. Lipska 27/24. US-trained doctoral level psychologist. APA member. Specialises in individual psychotherapy for adults and children. For more information: www.mrybak.waw.pl, mob. 606 518 151.

Ren Clinic Al. Gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok. 12A, tel. 22 414 2222, www.renclinic.pl. Surgical care, cosmetics, medical dermatology, aesthetic medicine and more.

Well Now Dental Clinic (Wilanów) ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 2A, tel. 22 403 8800, www.wellnow.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-20:30, Sat 9:30-14:30.

PRIVATE CLINICS

ARUMED Arumed Oriental Medical Center, ul. Noakowskiego 8, tel. 22 825 93 96.

The OMC doctors offer acupuncture, acupressure, herbal medicines, and medical massage for complete health.

Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl. Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24hr hotline: 801 800 808, for mobile users: tel. 22 332 2888, www.luxmed.pl.

they perform innovative treatments with state-of-the-art equipment.

Medicover Center Atrium, Al. Jana Pawła II 27, ul. Inflancka 5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. 18, ul. Domaniewska 37, ul. Puławska 278, ul. Poligonowa 3. Hotline: 19 677 or 500 900 500, Medicover Hospital on Al. Rzeczypospolitej 5 in Wilanów tel. 500 900 900, www.medicover.com.

Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54 Al. Solidarności 149, tel. 22 620 0818. ul. Wilcza 31, tel. 22 834 5804. ul. Puławska 39

Vertebralia ul. Postępu 6, tel. 22 449 2828, www.vertebralia.pl. A clinic specializing in the integrated treatment of all kinds of spinal illness. With 20 years of experience,

24-HOUR PHARMACIES

POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS Academia Polonica (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 55 loc.15, tel. 22 629 9311, www.academia-polonica.com.pl. Offering a choice of special programs such as: Polish in Business, General Polish Language, Polish for Academics and Polish for Professionals.

Ren Clinic is a modern clinic specializing in the field of surgical care cosmetics, medical dermatology and aesthetic medicine.

Centrum Damiana ul. Wałbrzyska 46, ul. Foksal 3/5, al. K.E.N 103, tel. 22 566 2222, www.damian.com.pl.

Citident ul. Młynarska 26/28, tel. 22 862 4770, www.citident.pl.

Enel-Med Medical Centre Atrium Plaza, Al. Jana Pawła II 29; Arkadia (A1), Al. Jana Pawła II 82; Blue City, Al. Jerozolimskie 179; www.enel.pl For an appointment: tel. 22 311 7777.

Eurodental ul. Nowowiejska 37, tel. 22 857 0088, www.eurodental.pl.

We offer: • Laserotherapy

• Removal of stretch marks • Shallowing acne and traumatic scars

• Wrinkle removal • Closing deep vassels • Laser hair removal • Endermology • Aesthetic Medicine

Lim Medical Center Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (C5), ul. Domaniewska 41, ul. 17-ego Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawła II 78, tel. 22 458 7000, www.cmlim.pl.

- Wrinkle Removal using a Palomar Star Lux 500 - Special offer AndreZadozda: - 50% for Endremolit face treatment and body treatments including an hour-long body massage

Lux Med Medical Clinics ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4);

al. gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok. 12A tel. 22 414 2222, www.renclinic.pl facebook.com/warsawinsider

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LIFESTYLE Increase your strength and flexibility

Move ahead – contact us at: www.gyrotonic.com 698 88 77 60, ilyadanse@gmail.com www.cluboasis.pl 22 851 05 63, cluboasis@cluboasis.pl

Akademia PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11, tel. 501 299 338, www.pff-warsaw.com, email: info@ pff-warsaw.com. Akademia PFF offers a wide range of Polish courses for foreigners at low cost in-company or other convenient locations. Professional and friendly tutors with effective teaching styles.

linguapolonica@linguapolonica.com.pl.

Modern.edu School of Language Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19 lok.21, tel. 22 881 85 14, biuro@ modern.edu.pl, www.modern.edu.pl. A wide range of Polish classes and customized courses at attractive prices - either in small groups or private classes.

Edu & More ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok. 81, tel. 22 622 COMMUNITY 1441, www.eduandmore.com. Business & everyday Polish. Full-time courses and innovaAlcoholics Anonymous for Foreigners tive courses of Polish online. Experience, Meetings take place on ul. Radna, buzzer #3. good location & price friendly. Students of Group meets Mon, Tues, Thurs 18:00 and Sat full-time courses get online course for free.

11:00 (except the first Saturday of the month).

Klub Dialgou ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13/156, tel. 664 American Friends in Warsaw AFW offers a variety of social activities, family 788 994, www.klubdialogu.pl. Individual and events and ‘hands-on’ outreach programs group courses held either on-site or at the supporting vital needs in our host country. venue of your choice. Tailor-made packages For more information: info@afw.waw.pl. inc. both intensive and weekend courses.

Lingua Polonica Lingua Polonica offers general Polish language classes, Polish for business and Polish for diplomacy. Individual learning programs are tailored to the needs of individual clients. Private and small-group classes available on a variety of levels for competitive prices. Professional, friendly and dedicated instructors. They even offer a free trial lesson for beginners.

Info: www.linguapolonica.com.pl. Email:

Cumann Warszawa Gaelic Football Team Poland’s first Gaelic football team is up and running. The club offers weekly training, competitive games against other European GAA opposition and regular social events and is open to players and members from all nationalities. For more information contact Eoin 518 425 587 or cumannwarszawa@gmail. com.

Dharma Yoga It’s well worth visiting the English/Polish website for more information on the specific practices of this type of yoga, the offers at hand for first-time students as well as sneaking a peak at the photo journalism of key practitioner, Sabina Steckiewicz’s travels around India.

Find out more at: www.dharmayoga.pl.

English Speaking Book Club We meet once a month in Ganders Teahouse (ul. Francuska 12). The meetings provide a good opportunity for stimulating discussions and for those new to Warsaw - a chance of meeting people in a very relaxed setting.

There are no membership fees. For more info, contact: marzena.reich@gmail.com.

Expatriates Services PFF ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11. Services for foreigners coming to Poland, including obtaining residence & work permits, visas, setting up business activities as well as legal services and support for foreign investors and

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WARSAW INSIDER | JULY 2012

business entities. For more information: tel. 22 information: ul. Piękna 68, tel. 22 626 8092, akademia@schelleracademy.com.pl.

828 1501, www.pff-warsaw.com.

Foundation for Poland This is a charity organization that reaches out to street children and other youths. They also manage a number of other projects. For more information: www.fdp.org.pl.

New Europe Writers Ink (D5) A fellowship of writers creating poetry and prose fiction in English. For more information: ul. Marszałkowska 80, mailbox 151, editor@ new-ink.org, www.new-europe-writers-ink.com.

Friends Creative Activities ul. Przyczółkowa 334, tel. 22 642 0843, www.friends-ca.pl. Handicraft workshops for both kids and adults alike. Visit a world of creative activities and share your passion.

Pol-in.pl – Professional Expat Assistance Information and services for foreigners such as: residence permit, visas, work permit, real estate, money transfer (Western Union), car rental and more. Info: www.pol-in.pl.

Frogs & Co. Warsaw’s expatriate men’s rugby team, trains Saturdays from 12:00 at Skra Stadium, ul. Wawelska 5. For more information: Christian, mob. 502 198 782.

Professionals in Warsaw Hosts meetings in the city to link up professionals, those new to Warsaw, or those here for the long haul. For more info contact Andy (mob. 691 535 566) or the group page on Facebook.

International Rotary Club The only English speaking Rotary Club in Warsaw. Visiting Rotarians are welcome to join the weekly meetings held at the Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45. For info: tel.

601 897 731.

St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl. The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year.

International Women’s Group of Warsaw Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings aheld on the second and fourth Monday of the month. For more info email iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com.

Taste of the Classics A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations. The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English. Attendance is The Kurt Scheller Academy (D6) by invitation and includes dinner and wine.

Offers top-standard cooking lessons. For more For further info: please contact Richard Berke-

ley: berkeley@fnok.pl or tel. 502 965 353.

Toastmasters International (E5) Toastmasters Polska club invites all to the weekly meetings, to master the art of Public Speaking and presentation skills. Meetings every Wednesday at 19.00 in the Warsaw Stock Exchange, Catalyst room 1st floor, ul. Książęca 4. Guests are most welcome with no commitment other than a short introduction. More info at toastmasters.org.pl or ring Etan at tel. 696 292 451.

TravelFriends.pl TravelFriends.pl is a community travel portal designed for anyone who’s up for meeting new people, whether it’s searching for travel companions or roommates, finding a partner, spicing up your free time, or just widening your circle of friends. For further info: contact Beata Sieradzka at info@travelfriends.pl, Visit their website at www.travelfriends.pl.

Warsaw Beavers Warsaw’s first expatriate ice hockey team trains Thursday and Sunday nights.

For more information, contact Randy Gabrielson 606 247 347 or e-mail to: warsawbeavers@gmail.com.

The Warsaw School of Photography A leading private institution in Poland offering photography courses in English for beginners and intermediate. With facilities including well equipped studios, classrooms, a computer center, a darkroom and an art gallery For more info: www.wsfoto.art.pl/english.

POLISH LANGUAGE SCHOOL FOR FOREIGNERS Tailor-made INDIVIDUAL and MINIGROUP courses - intensive - regular - weekend at the school or at your place First Lesson Free Free conversation classes

tel. 664 788 004 info@klubdialogu.pl www.klubdialogu.pl

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STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

84 Wa rINSIDER s a w I n s| JULY i d e r :2012 0 1 – 3 1 M a r ch 2 0 1 1 76 WARSAW

Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2

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Stadion Narodowy

Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

ChoCdhkod łyiaKłyam kieicwzaic BiaB iew Kaiem za ńień

WHY WARSAW?

BY IZA DEPCZYK

Tell me more...

Through my company, Warsaw Black, I organize events and parties. The first project was Sinners & Saints, which connects the Warsaw elite. Next came the Bubbles & Beauties events for Sketch. Recently, we celebrated our third anniversary – that’s three years of entertaining over 1,000 people every week!

How did you get into this?

I’ve always had it in me. I like to entertain people, it’s just the person that I am. I guess I got it from my dad, who always loved to have fun and enjoy life. I always felt that there was something missing in Warsaw, even the highend places weren’t offering the kind of entertainment I was looking for, so I created Warsaw Black to fill that space.

Gimme’ something to love about Warsaw...

I love it for its calm vibe when I need it, as well as for the progress I see it making as a city, and the energy in the people.

Is there anything to dislike then?

I dislike the attitudes of people who say that things are bad, when Warsaw really is changing for the better. I also dislike the hypocrisy and stupidity of the people that run the country.

What differentiates Poles from Americans?

Americans dream big, Poles get stuff done if they really want it.

Patryk Burzka Burzyński is the CEO and founder of Warsaw Black, a creative company best known for being behind some of the most exclusive parties and events in the capital.

So Patryk, where did it all begin?

I was born and raised in Żoliborz, and thanks to my parents, who have always been part of Warsaw’s ‘in crowd’, I grew up surrounded with all these funky, colorful, amazing people. I traveled a lot when growing up, and I’ve been exposed to many different cultures – that stayed with me to this day and was part of the reason I decided to study in the Windy City that is Chicago. I stayed in the States for over six years travelling between Chicago, Miami and New York City, before coming back to Warsaw to shake up its party scene.

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WARSAW INSIDER | JULY 2012

Which one of the events you organize do you enjoy the most?

I enjoy them all, but Bubbles & Beauties is my favorite. It is a wicked “house” party, and I have a sentimental attachment to it too as this was my first “baby.”

As a person who promotes artists, who do you think will be the next ‘it’ person round here?

Zuo corp, Maldoror, will take fashion to another level.

Robert Kupisz is an icon already. I don’t really listen much to Polish artists but thumbs up to the young and talented Radzimir Dębski. He has passion, a humble nature and the global mentality to make things happen.

WARSAW BLACK EVENTS COMING UP IN JULY 7th Bubbles & Beauties at Top Floor Sketch.

13th Sinners & Saints at DeLite Club.

14th Bubbles & Beauties at Top Floor Sketch.

20th Warsaw Black Entertainment in SILK Club Warsaw.

21st Bubbles & Beauties at Top Floor Sketch.

27th Sinners & Saints at DeLite Club.

28th Bubbles & Beauties at Top Floor Sketch.

For more information check: facebook.com/WBEntertain

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF PATRYK BURZYŃSKI

THE PRINCE OF PARTIES

Do you consider Warsaw your home?

Warsaw is definitely my home and my heart. I wouldn’t be here if I felt differently. I could be living now in New York or anywhere else in the world but I am here. Who knows where life will take me in several years.

Enjoy the view from the highest hotel bar located on the 40th floor!

Panorama Bar & Lounge opened daily 18:00 – 04:00

Panorama Bar & Lounge 40th floor Warsaw Marriott Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, 00-697 Warsaw Facebook: PanoramaBarLounge, T: 22 630 5030/22 630 7435, events@panoramabar.pl, panoramabar.pl

Luxury DEPArTMENT STOrE, rESTAurANT, DELicATESSEN AND WiNE BAr ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, BALENCIAGA, BALMAIN, BOTTEGA VENETA, BRIONI, CÉLINE, CHLOÉ, EMPORIO ARMANI, GUCCI, JIMMY CHOO, MIssONI HOME, sTELLA MCCARTNEY, YVEs sAINT LAURENT AND MANY MORE…

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WARsAW, BRACKA 9, MON-sAT 11:00–21:00, sUN 11:00–18:00, WWW.VITKAC.COM