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River Running 1921: The Diary of E.L. Kolb
Utah Historical Quarterly
Vol. 37, 1969, No. 2
River Running 1921: The Diary of E. L. Kolb
EDITED BY W. L. RUSHO
AMONG THE COLORADO RIVER'S many canyons, Cataract Canyon, Utah's deepest, is one of the least known and appreciated. Since Cataract is so difficult to reach by any means, however, its obscurity is understandable. Many will hear of this gorge in the future, for it bisects the new Canyonlands National Park.
Lying between the mouth of the Green River and the head of Glen Canyon, Cataract's forty-one miles cut across the multi-colored rock desert in a flourish of incised twists and turns. Essentially V-shaped, the canyon walls consist of jagged terraces, broken boulders, and rough, vertical cliffs. Sunlight creates weird patterns among the high rocks, bringing out delicate hues of red, yellow, brown, and gray, which change continually as shadows swing slowly about the crags.
In many places ragged rocks have rolled from the cliffs into the Colorado River, forming dangerous rapids. Early river runners often underestimated the force and violence of Cataract's rapids, which led to a series of tragic accidents. Men began to call it the "Graveyard of the Colorado." The Frank Brown-Robert Stanton Railroad Survey party of 1889 suffered greatly in Cataract, losing most of their boats and supplies to the violent waters. Other mishaps, many of them fatal, occurred in following years — even into the 1960's. No one can say with authority exactly how many have died in the canyon's churning, brown waters.
Some men, better prepared both physically and mentally, made it through the canyon without major mishap. Two of these were the Kolb brothers, Ellsworth and Emery, who ran a photograph studio on the south rim of Grand Canyon. In 1911 they boated from Green River, Wyoming, to Needles, California. Their objective was to obtain photographs and motion pictures, but they could not help becoming rather expert boatmen in the process. Whether in boats or ashore, they studied the river in all its nuances — in storm and sun, in summer and winter — not as a hobby, but as an all-consuming life interest and passion.
Dam builders too, were turning their thoughts to the deep, narrow canyons of the Colorado. Devastating floods into Imperial Valley and near Yuma during the years from 1905 to 1920 had demonstrated beyond argument the need for a large dam somewhere upstream. Flood control, however, was only one reason for building dams. Engineers, politicians, farmers, and industrialists saw in the river great potential for improving the economy of the Southwest, in terms of both water and power. Major John Wesley Powell's brainchild, the U.S. Geological Survey, was at that time responsible for locating dam and reservoir sites throughout the country. Careful topographic mapping of the canyons was a necessary adjunct to such investigations.
Eugene Clyde LaRue, a USGS hydrologist, examined some of the canyons of the Colorado in 1914 and 1915, though he did not visit Cataract. To complete his investigation, he urged that a mapping expedition through Cataract Canyon be undertaken in 1921. He would accompany the surveyors to look for dam sites. His proposal was accepted and the USGS began planning for the trip.
Also interested in dam sites were officials of the Southern California Edison Company of Los Angeles, who sought profit from bringing cheap hydro power to their fast-growing metropolis. Exactly how the USGS and the Edison Company joined hands for the 1921 expedition is not recorded, but such an eventuality would not seem unlikely, in view of their overlapping interests.
For boatmen, the choice was the Kolb brothers. Emery Kolb, however, was asked to double on the camera, which left most of the boating chores to Ellsworth. Ellsworth Kolb, whose diary of the trip follows, was a highly talented individual. His writing ability had already been demonstrated by his account of the 1911 trip entitled Through the Grand Canyon From Wyoming to Mexico. He was a good boatman who prepared thoroughly and could act quickly in an emergency.
Ellsworth's diary was discovered in the files of the Edison Company in Los Angeles, written in an ordinary five- by seven-inch field book. Officials of the company have graciously released the volume for publication in this Quarterly.
The 1921 expedition produced the well-known "profile" maps of the canyons — maps that have been used by boatmen and engineers with confidence ever since. The party chief was an engineer named William R. Chenoweth. Ellsworth refers to himself as "E.L." and to his brother as "E.C."
NOTES BY ELLSWORTH L. KOLB LOG OF CATARACT CANYON SURVEY.
Members of the party
Wm. R. Chenoweth. Topo. Eng. U.S.G.S., Sidney Paige Geologist U.S.G.S., E.C. LaRue Hydraulic Eng U.S.G.S., Leigh Lint and Harry Tasker Rodman U.S.G.S., Frank Stoudt Recorder, John Clogston Chef, E.L. Kolb Boatman
Boats name respectively - Edison, L.A., Static
Photographic section Emery C. Kolb Henry Rauch in boat Edith used by Kolb Bros, in 1911-12 for same trip Green River Wyo. to Needles, Calif.
Sept 3d. 1921. Saturday. E.C. LaRue and writer left L.A. on limited 10.55 A.M.
Sept. 4, 21. Sunday. Arrived at Green River, Utah 11. [illegible] p.m. Registered at Midland Hotel.
Sept 5 21 to Sept 9. 21 LaRue and writer put in time adjusting conveniences to boats; special ring type oarlocks, supplementary oarlocks on each boat to be used in case of a break; holders for extra oars on each boat etc. [drawing of oarlock made in diary] Mr. Chenoweth and party arrived at Green River the night of the 7th. Two of party quit, leaving Mr. Chenoweth, Lint and Clogston of origonal [sic] party. These three were together on the Snake River survey.
Sept 10. Sat. Messrs. LaRue, Paige and Tasker, a Green River man embarked at the water tank above to Co. bridge about 11 A.M. A movie was made of the start. Another staged landing was m[a]de with Indians, ladies from the hotel, Reclamation Eng. the U.S.G.S. and others for local color. E.C. Kolb and H. Rauch embarked in the "Edith" about 3.30 P.M.
Sun. Sept 11. Mr. T.G. Gardine left; Mr. F. Stoudt of the Edison Co. arrived. Boats are loaded.
Mon. Sept 12. Last of party, 5 in number left in the two remaining boats with Mr. Chenoweth, Stoudt and the writer on the rowboat. Lint and John the chef on the power boat. A half mile below town we tried to work the two tandem but neither boat would steer. Mr. C. then suggested that they be roped together side by side. This worked entirely satisfactorily. The current was good and we made about five miles per hr. Two prospectors camps were passed by noon. John was ill from the high living in G.R. The sky was clear; there were a few cumulus clouds the day was quite warm, the thermometor [sic] registering 80° in sun. Two miles below Dellenbaugh's Butte we passed Whimmers Ranch 26 miles below G.R. Time 2.20 P.M. Reached mouth of San Raphael River about 2.45 Camped at 5.45 about 40 miles below G.R. on the right shore. Scrub oak and poison oak near. Tues. Sept. 13. Morning brisk, cool. Left camp at 8.A.M. 8.30 passed a side canyon with walls about 300 ft. high. Reached the center of the Double Bowknot at 10.55.
Time around the center loop 1 hr 20 minutes, distance 7 miles, distance across neck 800 ft. fall in river 6 ft. [drawing of loop in the river in the diary] Temperature at 4 P.M. in sun 84°; water 59° Broke thermometor getting boat off sandbar. Overtook Emery at 3.20 P.M., sick since leaving G.R., about 11 miles below the D.B. Emery has killed and dressed a heron; Henry bags a duck in 10 shots with his 22 short. Camp above a sand bar near a finger formation projecting from wall We have a hearty meal with bread pudding for des[s]ert. The boats are heavily loaded, even the cockpits being so full there is little room for rowing if it was necessary.
Wed. Sept 14. Got away at 8.A.M. The motor bucked this A.M. and continued to do so most of the day still we made better time than when rowing. Near noon we pass the cliff dwellers fort on top of a formation standing in a big flat in a turn of the river. No one stops. Stop for noon at the big valley that separates Labyrinth from Stillwater Canyon. The valley is covered with sun flowers on stalks about 7 feet high. deer tracks are plentiful. The walls are now over 600 feet high. The formations are picturesque and continue to grow in size and granduer [sic] as we progress. Many movies are made from the deck of the moving boats. We stuck on several sand bars today. Our camp was not an ideal one on account of the mud at the shores, thick willows and a steep climb for 30 feet to the dry ledge at the foot of the cliffs but we are all happy. We have mosquitos at each camp on the Green River.
Thurs. Sept 15. Start about the usual time. Reach LaRues camp one mile from the Junction before noon. They have been out on top in the Land of Standing Rocks. It is new to LaRue and Paige and they are properly enthused. Paige is wild over the colors and rocks Emery Kolb and H. Rauch remain at this camp for a climb out keeping the Edith; the three Edison boats continue. The Junction of the Green and Grand Rivers is reached at 12.45. A recent act of Congress has officially changed the name of the Grand River to the Colorado. Both streams are about equal in size above this point. I believe the Green is the longer stream. This change will give the Colorado state people a better chance to make the traveling public think they are seeing the Grand Canyon of the Colorado. The daddy of them all — the Grand Canyon of Arizona is 500 miles away however. Mr. Chenowith began his survey at the Junction with a rodman on the left or S.E. side, he and another rodman taking the N.W. side. He told me to continue with the boats down about 2 or 2 1/2 miles. My judgement of distance was poor and I stopped at the head of rapid No. 1 three and a half miles air line from the Junction. No harm was done for the line was carried to camp. There are no mosquitos at this camp; the willows begin to dissapear [sic] and there is more sand and less mud after the rapids begin and the walls close in Camp 1.
Friday. Sept 16, 1921. The end of a perfect day. The motor was unshipped and stored and my work began. An early camp was made at the end of rapid No. 4 seven miles from the June. I get the same kick out of the rapid running that I formerly did, and these are pretty small. Being with a party of engineers has its compensations; one gets definite information on heights, falls, and distances. For instance rapid #1 only falls 4 ft; #2 has 5 ft. fall but a number of rocks made it a respectable one; #3 falls 3 1/2 ft., easy. #4 is longer, shaped like a capital S and falls 8 ft. Nothing is carried around these except the overload in the open cockpits. I have less trouble running the second and third boats than I have the first. Emery was seen by the engineers, on a high point yesterday, but has not showed up yet.
The day was warm and pleasant for shooting rapids, one does not mind the big waves in such weather. Tasker, Leigh and Paige all helped rowing the boats in quiet water and saved me many steps upstream.
There is a side canyon coming in above rapid No. 1. that permits a trail from the rim to the river over which sheep have been brought down to the water. Mr. C. ran his line up here for 1 1/2 miles. Tasker says sheep have been crossed on ice to the South side. Loper and Russel used this trail, after they lost two boats somewhere in the vicinity of r. #5. We note possibilities of climbing out on the south side as well below this point. Camp 2.
Sat. Sept. 17, 1921 Mr. C. took Stoudt with him leaving the rodmen and others to help me in the rapids. Our loads are diminishing and we find that nearly everything can be packed under the hatches. Only the surplus is portaged. This makes a great hit with the boys for it gives them a chance to set up a battery of kodaks and picture the boats as they are run thru #5. It falls 8 ft but the action is condensed and should make some good pictures. Boat No. 1 had open type oarlocks and one oar unshipped so that the boat was carried into the biggest breakers. It rode it out beautifully. No. 2 and No. 3. boats went thru as planned. Rapid #6 was small, run on South. #7 had a swift water approach and a big ending. The two combined fall 11 ft. Emery and Henry came along here. The boys helped me with the boats in quiet water. LaRue operates my kodak while I am in the boats. Six rapids for the day gives me 18 runs as I have run all three boats thru. The total fall is now 78 feet below the junc. distance 9 1/2 miles, width of bottom about 100 feet above the stream is 1500 ft We have had no mishaps in the 10 rapids run. The one eyed trapper Smith was discovered on our last trip a half mile below this camp. Camp 3.
Sunday. Sept 18, 1921 Only two small rapids are run today #11 with 1/2 ft and #12 with 2 ft. hardly more than a riffle. LaRue and Henry took the extra boats thru. The afternoon was spent by Emery and self charting our channel thru rapids #13 to #16. [drawing of rapids Numbers 14 through 18 appears in the diary] Nos. 14 and 16 being the worst the first with a fall of 13 feet and second one having 9 feet but it is the great rocks, both projecting and submerged, that we fear, not the descent. At rapid #14 we find records chisled [sic] on the rocks by some of the Best party as follows "Col. Grand Canyon M. & Imp. Co. July 22, 1891 [figure of a boat labeled] No. 1 [underneath the figure appears the words] Wrecked. G.M. Wright Sep. 16, 1892. On another rock "Camp No. 7. Hell to Pay. Sunk & Down" 4 On north side of river. At rapid No. 16, Mr. Stone [in 1909] found a rude scow just wrecked, held against rocks by the torrent, fresh tracks of two men and a boy a coat and other articles on shore. Tracks led up to the cliffs. Mr. S. tried to get some trace of them but had no success. He thought it improbable that they could climb out. We saw several places on either side that we felt certain were climbable without great danger. Mr. C. ran his line to Island Rapid; 4 miles for the day. The weather is ideal, our camps leave little to be desired and are usually in dry sand well above the river. The stream is about the same stage as we had ten years ago. We feel more confident of ourselves than we did then. The season is 5 weeks earlier than the former trip the weather then was inclement and chilling. Camp 4.
Mon. Sept 19. 1921. Mr. Chenowith and Stoudt went alone today, all others remaining to help us. They are all good boys and rather overworked so we did our best to give them a little treat. Everything but the extra oars and two life preservers went under the decks. Besides the movies an 8 x 10 was made of each of us as we took the boats thru. In no. 14. I broke an oar just at the head of #14 and had to do some rapid work getting an extra oar into place. Also lost my hat. Leigh loaned me one. E.C. took one of my boats as well as his own. Both ran #16 without trouble and we continued our paice [sic] all day. E.C. ran one of my boats thru all but one of 9 rapids that were surmounted this day. This brought us to the lower end of no 21 which we formerly called "A little Niagara. It has 11 feet fall much less than either Dellenbaugh or ourselves thought. Rapid #20 divides on island. Camp 5.
Tues. Sept. 20. 1891 All boats went thru #22 so easily that some of the boys did not waste a film on them. They all got busy on #23. I ran three boats and had some trouble with each one. Boat 1 hit a rock, whirled bow first, submarined and an extra oar was washed off and gave me a chase to the head of the next rapid before it was recovered. Run 2, an oarlock separated and I used an extra paddle to recover it Static also hit the rock but no harm was done and we muddled thru. E.C. in the Edith came thru without mishap. All cockpits are well filled with water in most of these big rapids.
Rapids 21-22 & 23 have a combined fall of 30 feet + in 3/4 of a mile. 5 #24-25- 26 give us no trouble but flood us and keep us continually soaked #26 goes to right side of an island. Mr. C. has expressed his pleasure at the way all work is going. LaRue has not seen anything that looked like a dam site owing to rotten slide rock, no turns and wide canyon Mr. Paige finds a lot of geology to keep him busy. The boys are great joshers, rather lacking in veneration, and call him the "rock hound" [portion of the diary illegible or erased] He takes it all good natureddly [sic] and rather seems to enjoy it.
They also talk a great deal of the allurements of the town of Hite to be found at the end of Cataract. Stoudt has not tumbled and looks forward to a shopping expedition in its department stores.
No. 26 divides on an island and has a very abrubt [sic] drop at the lower end. No. 27 was nearly a mile long in 3 sections and half filled our boats. Emery ran the Static thru.
Tasker says the country above this camp No. 8, is called Water Hole Flat, Garfield Co., Utah. Leigh and Tasker took two boats through the interval to camp 7 at head of rapid 28. Mr. C. has run his line 1 1/2 miles farther. We have little room for our beds. Walls are quite sheer and very picturesque on north. We have seen many places where a climb out is possible on both sides. Paige reached a spot within 200 feet of the top at one point The boys went fishing last night and this A.M. Got a dozen bony tails. Pictured one. There are 4 high, narrow peaks projecting from the wall south of camp. Camp 6.
Wed. Sept 21 1921 Made photos of peaks and down stream at camp, all aboard for #28. Emery and I had ran one boat successfully; then each started down a second time. E.C. was carried against a great rock on the shore, broke an oar and hit another submerged rock. No damage down [done?].
Emery carried Henry and I gave Tasker a lift thru the 10 ft fall in No. 29. In No. 32, while Emery was making a movie my oar lock came apart and I had a rather strenuous time recovering the oar. It should make a good picture. This rapid is at the mouth of Gypsum Canyon, which comes in from the South. Mr. C ran his line up for nearly 3 miles. We camped for the day at the mouth of a small canyon a mile below. Emery and I follow it up until it boxes. See many deer tracks.
Camp is at a beautiful spot. The boys fired some great drift piles tonight and lighted up the canyon walls to the very top, 2400 feet above. One of the fires went up about 50 feet.
This is the first bend suitable for a dam site but the walls are rotten, just as they have been all through, and wide apart. Camp 7
Thurs. Sept 22. Emery made some camp movies this morning as the engineers were leaving for their work. In rapid #36 Emery and Henry got into a m[e]an hole but, got out without a capsize. This series has 8 ft. fall.
For the first time today the shore pinches out on the South side for a short distance. Movies were made by Emery of the engineers working along shore. The narrow walls here expedite the surveyers work, [portion of the diary illegible or erased] camped at a beautiful side canyon with clear pools, coming in from the north. I suggest calling it Chenoweth Canyon, but he overrules it and calls it Clearwater. We are 24 1/2 miles from the Junction The drop in the river is 315.4 feet.
I tried to reach the head of this canyon, but failed. LaRue found two arrow heads and I got a small piece of pottery in a high [?] cliff ruin close to camp. The boys lighted 10 fires in the big drift piles and we try our luck at taking some pictures by their light Camp 8.
Friday Sept 23 Only two medium sized rapids today and two riffles. The engineers ran their line for 5 1/4 miles. The narrow canyon helps a lot. Camp was made about 30 miles from the Junct. where shale slopes run up on e[i]ther side to the top. Below this point LaRue has located a dam site. Emery, Paige and myself climbed out on the south side leaving at 5 P.M. The top was reached 1 hr and 15 min later. We g [crossed out] at at [an?] elevation of 1575 ft above the river. Darkness came on before we got back at 8 P.M. Hard work but we made it safely. Camp 9.
Sept. Sat. 24, 1921 Moved camp x / 2 mile today to LaRues spillway site Emery and Henry pulled out for Dark Canyon. The boys did not need me in the afternoon so I climbed out again on the Northside. Killed a side winder and found some mountain sheep horns. There are many formations on the plateau possibly 600 feet high the nearest one about four miles distant. Got back to camp again at 8. Had a difficult time in the dark, no moon but a clear sky A trail could be made in the rotten rock on either side without much difficulty Camp 10.
Sun. Sept 25 1921 LaRue took one loaded boat around the turn John and I remained in camp, a half mile below last camp, sweating in the sun and fighting flies, while the crew survey the dam site, or power plant flat. It is not much, just a sloping hillside where a small canyon comes down. Emery and H. come back and report the worst rapid yet, a mile above Dark Canyon. Camp 11
Mon. Sept 26 Mr. Chenoweth works on the flat until 2.30 then we pull out. Find a rapid much worse than ten years ago. I run one boat through this evening Camp 12
Tues Sept 27 1921 This rapid has [blank] fall but has a lot of rocks badly placed at a turn near the end. One of my boats goes into these rocks but worms thru without touching. Emery got through safely. About noon we arrive at Dark Canyon. The rapid has not improved with age, in fact its much worse; has about 50 rocks badly placed on the south side and has a dangerous turn, filled with great rocks. Still I thought it could be run and save a lot of time. Evidently I was mistaken. One loaded boat, the L.A. was put in, landed in a nest of rocks 50 feet from the south shore. Got a line from shore but our combined efforts failed to budge it. I cooned the line to shore The Edison, half loaded, did a little better; lodged on a flat rock but was shoved off and landed safely. The Static was emptied, started better, but went into the turn and capsized. I hung to the boat but until it approached the Island Rapid where I swam out. The boat got into an eddy 100 ft. below, Tasker had made a run and came down in the Edison and the boat was towed to shore. Both boats were towed back to camp at lower end of the rapid. Camp 13
Wed. Sept 28. 1921. Emery has made a pulley out of a 4 inch cottonwood stick and some 1 inch sticks. It is swung on the ropes with a line both ways. We go to boat and run the load to shore. Takes until nearly noon. The boat was pried off, and after a little lining was safely landed. The Edith was lined thru. Camp 13.
Thurs. Sept. 29. 1921. Tasker and Lint take a boat each thru the Island Rapid. It is very tame compared with what it was ten years ago. A mile below is a little one which is the first place, Mr Paige says, where bed rock projects. LaRue has another dam location that holds us up a mile above Mill Crag Bend. Camp 14.
Friday, Sept 30. 1921. About 2 P.M. we reach Mill Crag Bend. Remain here for camp. Mr. C ran his line up Mill Crag for 3/4 mile. See our chisled [sic] names left here ten years ago less 1 month.[There is an entire page that is illegible in the diary. It appears to be an account of the party's arrival at Hite.]
Sat. Oct. 1. 1921 The boys celebrated last night with fireworks. It rained a little last night and drizzled today. There are many mineral springs all thru this section. The dam site survey was completed and the line continued within less than a mile of the Freemont [sic]. The boys saw some mountain sheep today. Camp 15.
Sun. Oct. 2. 1921 Chilly from the rains. Mr. C. completed his line to the Freemont and tied in to his old line. The river is 10 ft lower now. Hite is reached about 11 A.M. The mayor Tom Humphries, is out but returns later with four cattlemen visiting him. Two women from Hanksville who have been putting up fruit left yesterday. When we were v here before only one^woman had visited the ranch in 12 years. The boys tried to make the motor run but without success. Continued down to Lopers ranch. It was dark when last boat arrived. Sand bars held them back.
Mon. Oct 3 '21 Open country brings dew and a chilly night but it is more than comfortably warm in the day on the river. Lunch is eaten at Smith's Fork where we photograph the pictographs. A mile and a half run brings us to Hansen Creek where Mr. C. has a cache. His back country work begins here, and we sort out our stuff; as we part company tomorrow. All men work and boats are in good condition. Mr. C. retains the boat L.A.
Tues. Oct. 4. '21 Left at 9 A.M. with two boats the Static and the Edison with Mr. Paige, LaRue and self to handle them E.C. and Henry on the Edith. The L.A. is left with Mr. C. to bring down to Lees Ferry. About 11 oclock we hear a motor and are soon met by Tom Whimmer and another in one of the open boats. They tell us that Hough has proceeded twenty miles below Halls Creek. Some of Mr. C's stuff is unloaded here and 1500 lbs. is taken on for Mr. Trimbles party; to be left with one boat at the mouth of the San Juan. We lunch with Whimmer, leave at 1 P.M. but hold up for 15 minutes to talk with Mr. White and two others who have just hauled in a canoe. Six miles below see one of Hough's motors on shore. Lots of swift water. Camp at 5. LaRue says the PM run was 16 miles. Hardly seems that.
Wed. Oct. 5. 1921 Left camp at 7 this A.M. A mile below the Water Pocket Fold cropped out Made some snaps from the boat. Passed two eroded formations at rivers edge. A half mile below at 9 A.M. passed a permanent camp evidently belonging to the men who have located the oil seeps that show here. Location notice badly washed. One is Frank Bennett Just before noon we pass Hough's camp. Two miles below at the Escalante reach the corps, all are well. About 2.30, on approaching the San Juan; was pleased for diversfe] reasons to find the Trimble party here, arrived two days previous. They welcome the load of supplies as well as the boat. They look as if they have had a hard time, surveying 144 1/2 miles of the San Juan, with a fall of 1000 ft. (?) It's a dirty red stream; the Colo, is clear by comparison. Elev. about 3250 ft. Loper has his two boats in good condition. Mr. H. D. Miser, geologist for the party is to go out with Mr. Paige. Emery and Henry left about 3.30. We left with the Edison at 4.15. Two hours traveling bring us to the Canyon Bridge but it takes a walk up to the Aztec ruins, so called, to convince me. See a coyote We camped on the island below to avoid the slime. It threatens rain tonight.
Thurs. Oct. 6. 1921. It did rain and blow. Left mouth of Aztec about 8, reached the Bridge in 1.50 leisurely walking Elev. by two baromoters [sic] up and down vary between 315 and 350 feet above river level. Small canyon at Rainbow Bridge could be darned; stream could be elevated and diverted around Bridge. Flood water below this point would have to be pumped out.
Pass a small cliff ruin half way up. Drifting clouds about Navajo Mt. Leave a few directional signs. LaRue posts some notices for engineers upstream. We camp about 11 miles below the island at Aztec. Gregories map for Bridge is incorrect. Leave a can of gas with a note for Hough. Saw two beaver, one closeRock wall on north to keep stock from going up stream.
Friday. Oct 7. 1921 Windy night and lots of sand. Clear this A.M. Leave camp about 8 A.M. Saw a wild horse, dappled gray in color, at rivers edge on right.
This part of Glen Canyon compares well with the Grand Canyon in its stratified peaks, some of them attaining the level of the rim. Have quit guessing heights.
Noon. Stopped to make coffee. About 2 P.M. reached Crossing of the Fathers. Climbed out on the South to take some snaps. Camped at the mouth of Warm Creek. No sign of Fowler. Leave gas.
Sat Oct 8, 1921 Pulled out at 7.30 A.M. 1 hr, 53 min. rowing to reach SentinelRock. 28 min. to Navajo Creek about 11 met Mr. Jockel's precise level party 7 1/2 miles above Lees Ferry. Took lunch with them. Arrived at Lees' Ferry [blank] A.M. Mr. Johnson and Mr. Cockroft [the name is also spelled with a "K," and you cannot distinguish which letter begins the name] taking guage [sic] readings. Mr. Ducker and Marrs just ready to pull out with the big power boat, with a new paddlewheel, for upstream.
Sunday. Oct. 9. 1921 Loafed & cleaned up, visited ranch.
Monday. Oct 10. 1921 Worked on motor. Big boat returned in P.M. Got to Warm Creek in 13 hrs running time.
Tues. Oct. 11. 1921 Mr. Ward, Dennis, Gar dine and others arrived late this evening by motor from Flagstaff.
Oct. 12. 1921. We see the party all on board the motor boat, dissapear [sic] around the bend, headed up stream.
Messrs. Paige, LaRue, Miser, Rauch, E.C. Kolb E.L. Kolb board the truck, with Griffith driving, and reach Flagstaff about midnight. Register at the Weatherford Hotel.
Oct. 13. 1921 LaRue and Paige leave by train for their homes. Miser goes with us, by our Ford truck, to the Grand Canyon.
Finis.
The Colorado River "is a veritable dragon, loud in its dangerous lair, defiant, fierce, opposing utility everywhere, refusing absolutely to be bridled by Commerce, perpetuating a wilderness, prohibiting mankind's encroachments, and in its immediate tide presenting a formidable host of snarling waters whose angry roar, reverberating wildly league after league between giant rock-walls carved through the bowels of the earth, heralds the impossibility of human conquest and smothers hope. From the tiny rivulets of its snowy birth to the ferocious tidal bore where it dies in the sea, it wages a ceaseless battle as sublime as it is terrible and unique.
"Such is the great Colorado River of the West, rising amidst the fountains of the beautiful Wind River Mountains of Wyoming, . . . Whirling down ten thousand feet in some two thousand miles, it meets the hot level of the Red Sea, once the Sea of Cortes, now the Gulf of California, in tumult and turmoil. In this long run it is cliff-bound nine-tenths of the way, and the whole country drained by it and its tributaries has been wrought by the waters and winds of ages into multitudinous plateaus and canyons. The canyons of its tributaries often rival in grandeur those of the main stream itself, and the tributaries receive other canyons equally magnificent, so that we see here a stupendous system of gorges and tributary gorges, which, even now bewildering, were to the early pioneer practically prohibitory. Water is the master sculptor in this weird, wonderful land, yet one could there die easily of thirst. Notwithstanding the gigantic work accomplished, water, except on the river, is scarce. Often- for months the soil of the valleys and plains never feels rain; even dew is unknown. In this arid region much of the vegetation is set with thorns, and some of the animals are made to match the vegetation. A knowledge of this forbidding area, . . . has been finally gained only by a long series of persistent efforts, attended by dangers, privations, reverses, discouragements, and disasters innumerable." (Frederick S. Dellenbaugh, The Romance of the Colorado River . . . [New York, 1904], 4.)
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