COOL CLIMATE TEMPRANILLO

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by Anna Maria Giambanco DiPietro

sk any wine aficionado where wine grapes typically grow and they!ll resoundingly share: #30 – 50° latitude, north and south of the equator.”

Within these areas, certain varieties have historically thrived in very particular regions. Take, for example, Pinot Noir in Santa Barbara County and Oregon’s Willamette AVA, Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa, and Riesling in New York’s Finger Lakes and Michigan. Vincent Anter, certified sommelier and founder of V is for Vino, shares:

"Cool climate vs. warm climate really is one of the most telling attributes of what a wine will taste like; even more than the grape used. The same exact grape grown in different climates can produce wildly different wines. Do you like your wines lean, crisp, lower in alcohol, and higher in acid? Or rich, ripe, and robust, with more pronounced fruit notes? All of this is determined not by the grape, but by the climate. ”

Cool Climate Tempranillo

With the advent of climate change, things have gone topsy-turvy and winemakers are scrambling to adapt. The old adage “Necessity is the mother of invention” comes to mind as brave vintners and vineyard managers collaborate with meteorologists and climate experts to map out the future of wine on planet earth. Extreme weather is taking its toll, with everything from raging wildfires to abnormal rainfall, tornadoes, and hail destroying vines and wreaking havoc on the wine industry.

While climate is but one determining factor when it comes to vinification; it can make or break things. Too cool, and the grapes don’t achieve peak ripeness; too warm, and the end result is more hand sanitizer than elegant nectar of the gods. Like anything, it’s all about balance.

Cool climate regions like Michigan, Germany, Northern Italy, Chile, and the Sonoma Valley are primarily known for Riesling, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay. Warm places like Argentina, Greece, Southern France, and Southern California are best known for Malbec, Agiorgitiko, Bordeaux, Syrah, and Merlot. But these days, the lines are blurred and grapes are being mix-andmatched, yielding new, exciting bottles.

Often referred to as Spain’ s “Noble Grape”, Tempranillo (tem-pra-KNEE-oh) thrives in Rioja, where it accounts for 88% of the red grapes grown there. As of 2020, 570,000 acres of Tempranillo, “little early one” in Spanish, covered the globe, with 500,000 in Spain alone. Found only on mainland Spain through the 17th century, it’s now in California, Portugal, Argentina, and Australia, where plantings have skyrocketed.

Although Tempranillo thrives in a balmy Mediterranean climate, it’s starting to pop up in some of the most unexpected places. How about the high desert vineyards of Colorado’s Grand Valley? Walla Walla, Washington. Michigan’s producing this red beauty in the Lake Michigan Shore Appellation, and Oregonian vintners have their hats in the ring, producing rich, spicy Tempranillo that’s turning heads. Vignerons in British Columbia , Pennsylvania, and Minnesota have been busy with Tempranillo plantings of their own, and even mild-mannered Napa's gotten in on the Tempranillo tangent.

According to Wine Folly, cool climate versions of Tempranillo exhibit flavor profiles that include sour cherry, strawberry sauce and, depending how long it’s in the bottle, red and black fruit flavors with hints of cedar and leather. It is just one of many grapes winemakers may wish to consider as warmer weather inches its way north due to climate change.

It’s safe to say that we can expect to see eclectic offerings and non-traditional wines from vineyards across the globe where folks are shaking things up, getting creative, and rolling with the ever-changing effects of our ongoing climate crisis. I, for one, am curious to see what transpires, and I look forward to tasting them all.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Anna Maria is a copywriter based in Santa Barbara County, California. She draws from her experience as a beauty and wellness professional, plant-based cook, and graphic artist to create approachable, educational content. Anna Maria is also a wine writer with a WSET Level 2 with distinction certification.