May 2019 | Urbanicity Hamilton

ODDS Bar is the local spot you didn’t know you needed When it comes to good food, may the odds be ever in your favour. And in this case, the nachos at ODDS Bar are a safe bet to make.

It’s branded as a sports bar, but ODDS is a place for everyone; whether you’re there to catch the game or catch up with friends.

It’s a place you can feel comfortable sitting down for a meal or stopping in for a quick pint and free popcorn — and that’s important to the owners. ODDS was opened as a collaboration between Erin Dunham and Matt Kershaw of The Other Bird restaurant group as well as Nick Dika and Max Kerman of Hamilton-based rock band Arkells. The vision was to create a neighbourhood hangout spot, and James Street South became the home to carry out their concept.

Quality and taste are not always top of the list when you’re looking for a place to watch a game. You go for the TVs, maybe even the payper-view, the beer, the camaraderie, but definitely not the cuisine. ODDS came to change that. Co-owner and Executive Chef Matt Kershaw has 30+ years in the food industry and knows the value of creating a menu that will bring people back. And that menu started with nachos. “Nachos for me are a personal vendetta,” says Matt. “Often you order them continues on page 15

MEXICAN KITCHEN PUTS THE PASSION AND TRADITION BACK INTO TACOS THEY'RE THE BEST IN THE CITY FOR A REASON

A VEGAN'S GUIDE TO HAMILTON

NEW COOKIE DOUGH SHOP IS INSTAGRAM READY INTRODUCING THE MOST PHOTO-FRIENDLY SHOP IN HAMILTON

CULINARY EUROTRIP THROUGH HAMILTON

GOING VEGAN IN HAMILTON HAS NEVER BEEN EASIER

TAKE A JOURNEY THROUGH HAMILTON'S EUROPEAN-INSPIRED RESTAURANTS

SO… YOU WANNA OWN A RESTAURANT?

THE 10 BEST BAKE SHOPS IN HAMILTON FOR 2019

HOW HARD CAN IT BE?

IT DOESN'T GET MORE DELICIOUS THAN THIS

C O M P L I M E N TA R Y

M AY 2 0 1 9 | F O O D I E I S S U E

FIND YOUR COMMERCIAL SPACE WITH URBANICITY 249 KING ST E HAMILTON

FOR LEASE 905-531-7778

650 SQFT $1625 / MONTH

This high visibility glass corner unit is perfectly suited for boutique retail or office space. One of the most affordable rents in the International Village! Very high foot traffic within Hamilton's most vibrant business community. This is a fantastic location to operate a small business that offers high visibility that won't break the bank!

103 KING ST E HAMILTON

FOR LEASE 905-869-0494

7000 SQFT $20 / SQFT

1 WEST AVE S HAMILTON

FOR LEASE 905-531-7778

1204 SQFT $1806 / MONTH

Ideal retail space right at the gates of the International Village.

High traffic location as the building is straddled by both King and Main Street, including a proposed LRT stop at the building's front door. Excellent current mix of professional tenants. Parking available on site. Generous tenant incentives available.

109 KING ST E HAMILTON

FOR LEASE 905-531-7778

1900 SQFT $25 / SQFT

Take part in the revitalization of downtown Hamilton. The former Capitol Theatre is receiving a new glass façade and boasts two large floors of open space. With multiple bar and kitchen infrastructure, this makes for an excellent restaurant opportunity. Lease is structured as semi-gross.

This retail space has a prime location along King Street East, directly across from the Royal Connaught development and a short walk from the upcoming King and Hughson Development. It's also just steps away from Gore Park and a new Starbucks across the street.

Landlord willing to offer favourable tenant incentives.

625 GREENHILL AVE

62-64 KING ST E

HAMILTON

FOR LEASE 905-869-0494

1000 SQFT $1700 / MONTH

Two 1000 square foot units in a newly renovated plaza with very cooperative landlord. Enjoy neighbours such as a new JuJitsu Studio, Medical Clinic and the East End's favourite new coffee shop Doughboy Donuts! Gross lease — no extra charges beyond utilities.

HAMILTON

FOR SALE 905-869-0494

$4.3 MILLION

A chance to own part of Hamilton history. These two buildings fronting on to Gore Park are almost as old as Canada itself. Combined 21,000 square feet of building with about 5,400 of ground floor retail that has patio potential.

URBANICITY.COM

3

P U B L I S H E R + E D I TO R Robert Cekan robert@urbanicity.com L AYOU T & D ES I G N Ta fa ri A n t h o ny DISTRIBUTION Urbanicity Canada

Urbanicity magazine is wholly owned and published by Urbanicity Canada Inc. All content copyright © 2019 and all rights to distribution are reserved by Urbanicity Canada As a forum for ideas, issues, and experiences, the views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the Publisher, Editor, other contributors, advertisers, or distributors unless otherwise stated.

DISTRIBUTION 40,000+ readers per month.

Distributed throughout Hamilton, Dundas, Ancaster, Stoney Creek, Waterdown, Aldershot, and Burlington.

12 issues per year.

(905) 531-7778 ADVERTISING INQUIRES robert@urbanicity.com www.urbanicity.com

The month of May used to be our annual Taco De Mayo issue where local restaurants would create new signature tacos and compete for the title of best taco in the city. While this was an amazing event for Urbanicity to host, we’ve decided to discontinue Taco De Mayo in order to focus our efforts on new initiatives in our pipeline.

But in the spirit of Taco De Mayo, we’re dedicating this issue (and all future May issues) to food in Hamilton. If you’ve been keeping up with the culinary scene in this city, then you know how difficult it is to track the number of openings and closures every week. Hamilton’s culture, history, affordable rents, and location have all contributed in drawing creative restaurateurs to what is now one of Ontario’s most unique offerings when it comes to dining out. This reputation, of course, only draws more talent to the area further accelerating Hamilton’s food boom.

So what better way to celebrate this important facet of our city than focus an entire issue on all of the wonderful food options in Hamilton! In this magazine, you will get a deep dive on ODDS Bar and Mexican Kitchen as well as a preview of Bread Bar’s new location and the new cookie dough shop For Real Dough. We’ve also rounded up some great guides for you to follow including a vegan’s guide to Hamilton, a culinary Eurotrip, a Top 10 bake shops list, 4 must-try spots on Ottawa St, and a beer guide to prepare you for patio season.

FOLLOW US

There are also some thoughtful articles on the topics of ‘food deserts’ in Hamilton, what the real impact of cannabis shops has been to the city, as well as a sarcastic piece by an anonymous seasoned restaurateur who sheds light on the realities of running your own restaurant.

As I mentioned in last month’s letter, we have begun branding Hamilton storefronts in an effort to match businesses with unique spaces in the city. You can browse through some of the listings on the opposite page to see which properties we are currently affiliated with. The goal is to attract a new local shop or restaurant to these spaces and help share their story once they’re ready to open their doors. If you or someone you know is looking for a commercial unit to begin their own business, please get in contact with me through robert@urbanicity.com and the Urbanicity team will connect you with the right people.

I want to send out a special thank you to my wife Jessica who helped me put this issue together, especially when I was bed-ridden due to illness just days before going to print. I wouldn’t have been able to make this month’s deadline without her help. She’s a true editor’s editor.

Enjoy the May issue and I hope you discover a few new spots as a result of what you read within these pages. See you next month!

ROBERT CEKAN

TRIVIA: 1. Which region of Hamilton can you find Tiffany Falls? Dundas, Ancaster, or Waterdown?

2. This street begins as York Blvd and is renamed at James St N. The street runs two-way until Victoria Street and then one-way until it ends at Sherman St N. Which street is it?

3. Hamilton’s G.S. Dunn Limited creates a milled spice that 93% of the world’s makers use to create this popular condiment. Which condiment is it?

4. Forge FC is one of seven teams in this new soccer league. What is the league’s name?

Answers on page 17

4

M AY 2 0 1 9 / F O O D I E I S S U E

Mexican Kitchen puts the passion and tradition back into tacos foods, I shamefully recall scratching my “Mexican” itch with a Cheesy Gordita Crunch (if you know, you know).

KARA SAVAS

Kara Savas is a born and raised Hamiltonian; an English and Social Sciences teacher, freelance writer, and sun chaser. Kara is a passionate supporter of local businesses, fresh perspectives, and lifelong learning.

With the warm May weather creeping in, Hamiltonians are emerging from their hibernation and descending upon the local patios and restaurants, becoming reacquainted with the outside world and the city’s food scene.

It’s also the month of Cinco de Mayo – the 5th of May – commemorating the Mexican army’s victory over France at the Battle of Puebla ( just so you know what you’re raising your margarita glass to every year).

It’s hard to ignore the hotbed of Mexican and Mexican-influenced restaurants that have cropped up in Hamilton.

Years ago, the options were far more limited. In my preteen years of having an underdeveloped palette for ethnic

Today there are arguably more taco and burrito joints in the downtown core than any other cuisine. Some of these spots host families, others host the late night crowd after last call, and all of them boast their own spin on a culture of food that is as rich in history as it is in flavour.

One might struggle to name a favourite from a very long list of hotspots, but local foodies will tell you that one place truly stands out. Not because of its artisan cocktail list, or a revolving menu of daily features; you won’t be greeted with any pulsating hip-hop beats, or be able to drop in for a late night craving when the mood strikes (at least, for now).

Perhaps most interestingly, their social media presence is minimal – their last Instagram post was in celebration of winning First Place in 2018’s Taco De Mayo challenge held among restaurants in the city. Despite some stiff competition and modest public exposure, the voters decided that the best taco in Hamilton could be found in the northwest lower level corner of the

Hamilton Farmer’s Market. This hidden gem is called Mexican Kitchen, and those who have dropped by for a trio of street tacos, tostadas, or churros give it enthusiastic full marks for flavour, variety, authenticity, and personality.

said that the business was going well, and that if it was something I was interested in, I could take over.” Paola finally agreed, made the move with her family to Hamilton and purchased the business.

The story of Mexican Kitchen is one She began adding to the Kitchen menu of family, tradition and passion. It was and its decor, which is equally impresoriginally opened as Divine Chocolates sive. The aesthetic is kitschy and eclectic, incorporatand Treats almost ing traditional 4 years ago by Mexican artwork, Carlota Cisneros, knick knacks, a chocolatier who IN MEXICO, THE PEOPLE lush green plants, moved to CanARE SO GENEROUS and a barn board ada from GuadaAND GIVE FROM THE high-top bar covlajara, Mexico.

HEART, AND I THINK IT’S ered by a straw Carlota specialIMPORTANT TO SPREAD umbrella. Paola ized in artisan THAT HERE TOO points out a bright chocolates and pink shrine with desserts made little adornments from scratch. The feedback was so positive that Carlota (called a “nicho”) with an image of Our soon began adding other homemade Lady of Guadalupe on the cement piltraditional Mexican food favourites, lar that was made by her mother. Her mother was a painter, and the famlike corn tamales. ily has an art store in San Miguel de It was during this time that Carlota Allende, which explains why the sisters was trying to convince her sister, Paola have such a penchant for creativity.

Solio Viniegra, to also make the move from Guadalajara so that she could A glance over the menu shows the be involved in the business. “We had perfect amount of options without a good life back home, but it became being too overwhelming. There are no too dangerous,” Paola recalls. “Carlota trendy hipster features here – this is

URBANICITY.COM

spread that here too.” I noted the sign on the counter that says ‘Free Pop and Water between 4:00pm – 6:00pm,’ another example of her hospitality.

She draws parallels between this characteristic and the Canadian values of openness and inclusivity, stressing how happy she is to be living and working in a country where her children are safe and where her family can contribute their skills and strengths.

a nostalgic taste of real deal Mexico.

Paola attributes the inimitableness of the cuisine to the different influences intermingled with her home country over the ages: the Spanish, the Aztecas, the Mayan, and the Incas. For example, pozole (a must try, feels like a warm hug to your belly) is an Aztecan dish. Pozole is traditionally a hominystyle soup served with lime and tortilla chips; Paola is excited to be introducing her vegan version of pozole to the menu soon from a recipe she perfected when she followed a vegan diet back in Mexico. It’s also worth mentioning that the Mexican Kitchen is completely nut and gluten free, and all items have vegetarian or vegan substitutes.

Paola and I talked about the Hamilton Farmers’ Market community, how she loves working alongside the other vendors, and purchases all her ingredients from them. In a city like Hamilton where her cultural cuisine is clearly so popular, perhaps the most obvious question was ‘What makes the Mexican Kitchen unique from others?’ She attributes it to the authenticity of the person behind the counter (herself ), as well as the love and passion that goes into each dish.

Paola cooks mere feet away from where I perched on a stool awaiting my order of chicken and beef tacos, and a bowl of

5

What’s on the horizon for Paola and her team? “We are experimenting with different foods to add to the menu… molletes, burritos, and looking to jar our salsas to sell as well.” Perhaps the most exciting addition (besides being able to buy that savory green magic in a jar very soon) is a new location in Dundas, which they’re hoping to open in the next 9 months.

pozole. There is an intimate and fascinating feel to watching her prepare it all in front of me, almost like I’m sitting in her own kitchen at home. “There are secret recipes and traditions passed down from our grandmother and mother that we now cook here. Even the sauces and salsas, everyone wants to know how to make it or where to buy it, but it’s only made fresh here.” It’s like she read my mind about the green

salsa, which was bursting with citrusy flavour and a mild kick – the perfect enhancement.

Paola’s generosity and passion also sets the Kitchen apart from the rest, and are trademarks of her culture. “If someone likes the avocados I use, I’ll give them one,” laughs Paola. “In Mexico, the people are so generous and give from the heart, and I think it’s important to

While I selfishly hope this hidden gem remains exactly that, I know that it won’t. It truly shouldn’t. A spot like this has to be experienced and shared, and those who haven’t should make it their next flavour fix pit stop.

Visit the Mexican Kitchen at the Hamilton Farmers’ Market on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays from 9:30 am to 6:00 pm and Saturdays from 9:30 am to 5:00 pm.

6

M AY 2 0 1 9 / F O O D I E I S S U E

A vegan's guide to Hamilton

LISA KISS

Lisa is a proud Hamiltonian, entrepreneur, and yogi. You can find her exploring all things local, fashion, and wellness related in #HamOnt!

Over the past few years Hamilton has made it much easier to be vegan and include more plant-based options into our daily routine.

If you're currently a vegan or considering this lifestyle, Hamilton doesn't make it difficult to find a spot that's right for you.

With 13 vegan outlets in all areas of the city, and each of them offering a different flavour into vegan culture, there's an option for everyone. Whether you’re on Barton Street, James Street North, The Mountain, or in Waterdown there’s sure to be a vegan eatery close to you!

BLISS KITCHEN

RAWLICIOUS

DEMOCRACY

312 Dundas St, Waterdown

1044 King Street West, Hamilton

202 Locke Street South, Hamilton

Right when you walk into Bliss Kitchen you see their motto: eat mindfully, live blissfully. Their space wholeheartedly embodies the vegan lifestyle. I recommend getting the falafel bowl and some Bliss Bites for dessert!

Located in charming Westdale Village, Rawlicious is a hidden gem. They aren’t just vegan but are raw vegan. Rawlicious has a variety smoothies, juices, soups, salads, and entrees. Next time you’re in the west end I suggest grabbing the quinoa salad and Sun Warrior smoothie.

Democracy is the perfect spot to get together with friends. They don’t have Wi-Fi so it’s the place to study or get some serious distraction-free work done (that doesn’t require your laptop). Democracy has amazing cauliflower wings that everyone needs to try, vegan or not!

EARTH SHAKE

THE JUICE KITCHEN

PLANTED IN HAMILTON

103 King Street West, Dundas

560 Concession Street, Hamilton

225 John Street South, Hamilton (Corktown Plaza)

Earth Shake is located right in Historic Downtown Dundas. They are a vegan eatery with delicious sitdown as well as grab and go options.

The Juice Kitchen is celebrating two years on Concession Street this month. They are a family-owned business with a juice, smoothie, and small food menu.

They have chia pudding, salads, stew, and cleanses.

It’s a great place to get your veggies in and sit with friends. Pro Tip: If you’re feeling sick get a ginger shot to boost your immunity!

Planted has the best vibes in Corktown. Planted has been open for just over a year now and has the most welcoming atmosphere. They have a variety of salads, bowls, and the best desserts that happen to be glutenfree as well as vegan. Start with the falafel bowl and end with a peanut butter brownie. You’ll want to eat lunch there every day!

URBANICITY.COM

GREEN BAR

HEARTY HOOLIGAN

236 James Street North, Hamilton

292 Ottawa Street North, Hamilton

Green Bar is a Hamilton vegan classic. They opened their doors in 2014 as a smoothie bar and now have an amazing food menu. However, true to their roots I believe that they have mastered the art of the smoothie and make the best in the city. Whip your taste buds into shape with the O.G bowl and Electric Banana smoothie.

Hamilton’s vegan punks. They have lots of seating and a cafe feel, so it’s the perfect place to sit and enjoy some of their vegan comfort food. Try one of their smoothies next time you’re strolling through the fabric district!

SYNONYM 328 James Street North, Hamilton Synonym is the new kid on the block. They’re known for their modern and Instagramable interiors, but Synonym is more than just coffee and oat milk lattes.

They released their new menu with a plethora of vegan options like their pretzel burger and Detox Grainy Green bowl.

CONSENSUS: HAMILTON IS A CITY YOU CAN BE VEGAN AND ENJOY YOURSELF!

LICK THE WHISK 29 Barton Street East, Hamilton Lick the Whisk is just a minute walk east of James Street North. The bright yellow exterior can’t be missed! The sunny vibes carry inside the building, with plants hanging by the windows, brightly painted walls, and a loft space — it feels like summer all year long! Lick the Whisk was started by two Hamiltonians who wanted to create a dessert cafe that was 100% vegan. All desserts are made in house daily in small batches with no preservatives.

LOTUS AND THE BEE 304 Barton Street East, Hamilton Lotus and the Bee is a new addition to the growing Barton Village. It’s the perfect spot to grab a healthy breakfast or lunch. They have great healthy options and the freshest smoothie bowls, including the delicious Heart Opener smoothie bowl. Stay and sit in the iconic pink chairs or get something from their Grab and Go fridge!

COVEN PLANT BASED MARKETPLACE 681 Barton Street East, Hamilton A one stop vegan shop, who could ask for more? I highly recommend picking up a few different kinds of vegan cheese like Nuts for Cheese and Main Vegan Deli.

BOON BURGER 295 Ottawa Street North, Hamilton The first vegan burger cafe with locations across Ontario and one sprouted right at the end of Ottawa Street North's shopping district. They now offer more options than just burgers. You can turn your burger into a salad, get pizza, poutine, and vegan ice cream.

Boon Burger also has each of their sources for sale so you can take some vegan goodness home with you!

HONOURABLE MENTIONS Here are some other places that offer vegan options, but are not completely vegan or don’t have a storefront: 01. EAST HAMILTON CHEESE CO. has vegan cheese options.

02. GO NUTS MILK has different nut milks available online and at stockists around Hamilton.

03. MARCI’S BAKERY has different baked goods available online and at stockists around Hamilton.

04. DOLLED UP DESSERTS offers vegan baking mixes.

05. NOURISH is a new online fresh food delivery business that believe in healthy and sustainable eating. They serve the greater Hamilton area, Waterdown, and Burlington.

06. MUSTARD SEED CO-OP on York Blvd has vegan options.

07. GOODNESS ME (all locations) have vegan grocery options.

08. PAISLEY COFFEE has vegan options on their menu.

09. CANNON COFFEE has vegan options on their menu, too.

7

8

M AY 2 0 1 9 / F O O D I E I S S U E

4 must-try spots on Ottawa Street

Calipan

Café Limoncello

Hammerhead's

CALIPAN

CAFÉ LIMONCELLO

Good for: Grabbing a quick bite to eat while walking around Ottawa Street N!

Good for: A work lunch or date night!

191 Ottawa St N, Hamilton

AUGUSTINE KRAWCHENKO

Augustine is a local lawyer at Krawchenko Law, located on Ottawa Street North.

She graduated with a combined Honours degree from McMaster University and a Bachelor of Laws (LLB) from the Faculty of Law at Leicester University in England in 2015. As a proud and passionate Hamiltonian, she returned to Canada to serve the Hamilton community as a general practitioner.

At one point, Ottawa Street North was known only for its textiles but as the street evolves, new food options have emerged and have made the Crown Point neighbourhood a haven for fantastic meals. Here are four of my favourites along the strip.

Merk Snack Bar

Located near the corner of Cannon Street East and Ottawa Street North, Calipan is an authentic Colombian restaurant specializing in delicious traditional snacks like empanadas and pupusas. The food is very affordable (many options under $5.00), the space is inviting and warm, and the staff are friendly. If you’re craving something sweet, look no further than the churros at Calipan. The churros are uniquely filled with warm dulce de leche, making them totally irresistible.

Suggestion: If you’re like me, one churro is never enough, so thankfully they have a special deal — 3 Churros for $6.00.

[You’ll spend $6.00 +]

HAMMERHEAD’S 80 Ottawa St N, Hamilton

226 Ottawa St N, Hamilton

If you find yourself on the corner of Edinburgh Avenue and Ottawa Street North, in front of a charming pastel yellow restaurant, you have found the right place! Café Limoncello serves some of the best traditional Italian food in the city. Their extensive menu ranges from brunch to traditional Italian favourites like paninis, pastas and pizzas. Café Limoncello is a bright and airy space, full of natural light. The charming patio in the warmer months makes for a versatile destination to enjoy a delicious meal at any time of day. The staff are professional and knowledgeable of the menu, and I have never left disappointed!

Suggestion: Host your next date night or business lunch at Café Limoncello — the food, service and atmosphere will definitely impress your audience.

[You’ll spend $20.00+]

MERK SNACK BAR 189 Ottawa St N, Hamilton

Good for: A delicious take-out dinner!

Just a stone’s throw away from the original Tim Horton’s on Dunsmure Road, this cozy and intimate shop on Ottawa Street North is one of Hamilton’s best kept seafood secrets. If you’re a fan of seafood shops on the piers of the East Coast of Canada, you’re already a fan of Hammerhead's. All food is prepared fresh to order — if there’s space in the shop, you can watch as they prepare your meal. The menu ranges from freshly prepared fish and chips to spicy Szechuan calamari with many seafood options in between (like the shrimp poutine). Be prepared to wait about 20 minutes from the time you place your order — I promise you it’s worth the wait!

Suggestion: After a long day at work, stop by Hammerhead's, place your order, and take a stroll down the beautiful Ottawa Street as you wait for your seafood to be freshly prepared.

[You’ll spend $12.00 +]

Good for: Afterwork drinks!

Looking for a relaxed atmosphere to kick back and have a drink after work? You have to check out MERK Snackbar, located near the corner of Cannon Street East and Ottawa Street North! At MERK you’ll find an amazing list of cocktails (including my personal favourite, the Old Fashioned) reasonably priced. If you’re not into cocktails, don’t fret — they have a great list of beers. While you’re enjoying your drink, make sure you order a few dishes off of their menu full of sharable, tapas-like plates — you’ll be glad that you chose MERK Snackbar as your afterwork libation-station.

Suggestion: Call your friends, grab some drinks, and share some food while looking out on Ottawa Street North and people watching in the window seats.

[You’ll spend $12.00 +]

URBANICITY.COM

9

Bread Bar comes to James Street North restaurant. The concept for Bread Bar came from a realization that Bettina’s desire to open a bakery and Jeff’s to open a restaurant — specifically a pizzeria — could be merged into one. The name as it’s known today comes from the fact that both are bread based.

JENNA YEOMANS

Jenna is a senior marketing student at Mohawk College and an aspiring entrepreneur. She loves creativity, goal setting, and learning new things. She is also a huge supporter of the growing specialty coffee scene in Hamilton.

Bread Bar — a restaurant known for its quality ingredients and seasonally inspired menu, is opening its third location at 14 James St N. Set to be open May 1st, Bread Bar is a welcome addition to the restaurant scene along the James North corridor.

This location comes 9 years after the original location, and 4 years since they opened in Guelph.

In 2010, Bettina & Jeff opened their first location on Locke St where they “took the philosophy of the Earth to Table cookbook, which [encompasses] sourcing seasonally grown food and using as many local producers as possible,” and implemented those into the

The specific location for the new Bread Bar was once home to a familiar Hamilton restaurant. “The developer contacted Jeff, and this specific spot — more specifically the basement — was an old iconic Hamilton restaurant called the Sirloin Cellar. I had been there once in my whole life but it was a classic steakhouse, velvet banquettes.

It was pretty known to those who lived in Hamilton for a long time,” Bettina recalls. They knew that the developer had worked on other successful restaurants in the area, so when they knew that this specific site was available, they were on board to open their next location here.

When talking about existing locations, Bettina expressed her excitement by saying “we really like the Locke Street community; it has really become a community-based restaurant with so many people that come in every day, sometimes 3 times a day. They come and get a muffin for breakfast, pizza slices for lunch and then come back for dinner. The Guelph location is very similar though not quite as community centered since it's not in a residential area — its close to downtown, but it still has

people who come 2-3 times a day,” Bettina tells me.

The corner of James and King William is a great fit given that it’s both a commercial and residential area with lots of people living and working just steps away from the restaurant’s front doors.

As many condo projects begin to rise, Bread Bar will surely grow a strong following in this part of town, too.

Staying true to the Bread Bar roots, the James St location will follow the same menu as Locke St and Guelph but make no mistake, “the restaurants aren’t cookie cutter. They are all very unique in their design and layout.” Other than the cool history behind the specific

site, what’s really different about the new location is that it will be set up to take reservations. Currently, due to the size and layout of the restaurant on Locke, reservations are only available to parties of 6 or more. This is an exciting change for those who like to ensure their seat before heading out to dine.

Whether you’re a devoted goer to Bread Bar or you’ve never had the pleasure of eating there yet, be sure to check out their new location this month!

Follow along on Instagram @breadbar_james for updates on the grand opening, menu specials, as well as future job opportunities.

10

M AY 2 0 1 9 / F O O D I E I S S U E

NETHERLANDS CAFÉ ORANJE 312 King St E, Hamilton

KROKETTEN Our first stop is the Netherlands. Café Oranje is "Dutch inspired, Hamilton born" which makes this a no-brainer, really. On their menu you will find the most iconic Dutch dish imaginable. Or maybe not dish, but snack: the kroket. Minced beef and spices, with a bread crumb layer, deep fried to perfection, and served with mayonnaise and mustard. It’s unfortunate that Café Oranje doesn’t stay open deep into the night, because that would make for a real Dutch tradition — a kroket at 3:00 am, on your way home from the bar. But we’ll gladly settle for the lunchtime alternative.

GERMANY BLACK FOREST INN 255 King St E, Hamilton

SCHNITZEL No need to cross the border into Germany; you can simply cross the street for our next stop. At the Black Forest Inn, a real German classic awaits you: the schnitzel. Pork loin, lightly breaded and pan-fried. There are about 10 different varieties, but it’s best to start with a Vienna; the classic with simply a lemon wedge on top. Don’t forget your side order of spaetzle (the German equivalent of mac ‘n’ cheese, so to speak) and a real German beer, since it's unofficially proven that a schnitzel simply tastes better with a Helles, Hefeweizen, or Doppelbock in your hand.

FRANCE NUTTYBUTTER 241 King St E, Hamilton

MACARONS Our Eurotrip now heads into France. A country known for many great foods, including a sweet treat that has been around since the 8th century: the macaron. Get ahold of the real thing at the charming Paris-inspired café Nuttybutter. With countless varieties such as butter salt, caramel dark cacao, pistachio, and coconut cashew, you’ll surely need to visit this gem more than once. Or just fill up a box to take with you. It's the perfect way to make friends at the office or keep your family happy for another evening.

PORTUGAL OLA BAKERY & PASTRIES 230 James St N, Hamilton

PASTEIS DE NATA Time to head into the Iberian Peninsula, because in Portugal we can find yet another sweet treat with a long history: pasteis de nata. It's a pastry base filled with custard and covered in icing sugar when still hot (last part is optional, but recommended). The original can still be found at Fábrica de Pastéis de Belém in Lisbon, but Hamilton has a very fine alternative in store for you at Ola Bakery & Pastries. Order yourself an espresso to boot and if the sun isn’t hiding behind the clouds too much you may, for a moment, mistake James Street for Rua de Belém.

URBANICITY.COM

11

GREECE SOUVLOCKE 254 Locke St S, Hamilton

ITALY RAD PIZZA

Jackson Square Mall (King & James)

PIZZA

GYROS Greece is home to many great dishes but undoubtedly best known for their souvlaki pitas and gyros. This new Greek tavern on Locke Street may have a silly name but these dishes are nothing to laught at — this is the real deal.

They only serve the pitas and gyros during lunch time; you won't find them on the dinner menu so plan accordingly. If you're looking for something a bit more familiar, you can't go wrong with a chicken or pork souvlaki pita that's loaded with lettuce, tomato, onion, and tzatziki. If you're looking for a bit more flavour, then a housemade lamb & beef gyro is for you. Pickled onion, fries, feta-pepper dressing — yum!

Italy. Europe’s boot. Perhaps the toughest choice to make during this trip: a luscious pasta dish or a perfectly crafted pizza? No wrong answer really, but this time let’s go with pizza. A real Italian one, from the newly opened Rad Pizza.

Thin crusted, fresh ingredients, not too many toppings (otherwise you’ll drown the pizza) and baked in a woodfired oven. What you’ll end up with is the perfect combination of a crispy base, with oozing cheese on top. Mamma mia! Say goodbye to Papa John’s and Domino’s, because true Italian pizzas are the only way to go.

UKRAINE HOLY SPIRIT POLAND STAROPOLSKIE DELIKATESY 711 Barton St E, Hamilton

KIELBASA On we go, back up North, until we reach Poland. Their best delicacy can be found at Staropolskie Delikatesy: the kielbasa. Or as we know it more commonly around these corners of the globe: the sausage. You’ll find a few different varieties at this Hamilton staple, ranging from pork to turkey, with different herbs and spices thrown into the mix.

Rather go for their immense selection of cold cuts on a double sandwich? Go for it but do yourself a favor and simply add a piece of kielbasa on the side. Double whammy.

15 St. Olga St, Hamilton

PEROGIES You full yet? I certainly hope not, because you don’t want to skip our last stop. Quite a few places in Hamilton sell decent perogies, but Holy Spirit Ukrainian Catholic Church is something special. Every week a group of lovely women comes together in the church’s basement, chat, laugh, and make the best perogies in town. Potato and cheddar cheese or sauerkraut — your call. Shop opens every Thursday; right on time for you to get a batch of fresh Ukrainian treats to gobble away during the weekend.

Need a few dozen at once? Better call ahead first. These are the perfect way to make friends at the office or keep your family happy for another evening.

12

M AY 2 0 1 9 / F O O D I E I S S U E

Wandering Hamilton's food deserts disparities arise due to a lack of transportation, distance from grocery stores, and income insufficiency.

When I hear the term ‘food desert’, it conjures up images of a barren urban wasteland with nary a source of healthy food in sight — perhaps a corner store stocked with cheap foods of convenience that are high in calories and low in nutritional value.

Yes, there are food deserts in Hamilton, but perhaps it’s time to reframe this pejorative term. There have been calls worldwide to stop using the term ‘food desert’ for a number of reasons. For some, the term evokes negative connotations and implies that limited access to healthy food is a naturally occurring phenomenon, rather than the result of underlying structural inequities.

For others, the use of the term desert is problematic in that arid landscapes, some covered in ice, most in sand – known as deserts – are home for many people around the world (in fact, each continent has desert regions) and are not inherently devoid of healthy food.

This term has become so ubiquitous in conversation with the civic-minded and community-engaged set, being generally defined as an urban area in which it is difficult to buy affordable or good-quality fresh food. According to several research studies, including a 2017 project led by researchers from the University of Guelph with an aim of identifying urban food deserts using data mapping, food deserts are indeed a prominent issue in Hamilton. The study found what many Hamiltonians know to be true from experience: there are clear disparities in the access to food services in Hamilton and these

These urban landscapes which are largely barren of affordable and healthy food options do exist in Hamilton, although we are fortunate to have a class of creative culinary entrepreneurs seeking to create oases for food throughout the city. Out of necessity, I and countless others borrow from the tradition of nomadic communities who often travel from place to place (including deserts) to obtain good food. Wandering, whether by foot, public transit or car, is an incredible way to get to know Hamilton and uncover some hidden food oases in Steel Town. I recently happened upon three.

TANYA RUMBLE

Tanya is a recent transplant to Hamilton, having returned after completing her undergraduate degree at McMaster. Her interests include health, social change, philanthropy, music, fashion, travel, public broadcasting, food, and reality TV.

This past summer, while wandering around the Arkells’ Rally held at Tim Hortons Field, I came across Amanda Wright, founder of confectionary company Sweet and Simple (on Instagram @sweetandsimpleco). She was selling handmade treats, including her pastel-coloured soft mints – a throwback to candy dishes found at the homes of elder family friends and relatives throughout my childhood. Amanda stirs up her sweets in the Kitchen Collective on King at Sherman in the Gibson neighbourhood. The Kitchen Collective is a non-profit, affordable commercial kitchen and culinary incubator for aspiring entrepreneurs looking to collaborate with and learn from other food business owners. An incredible list of enterprising Hamilton-owned businesses are based out of this space representing catering companies, small-batch ice-cream makers, coffee roasters, pierogi purveyors, and more.

Farther afield – airfield, to be more precise – is The Pigeon. Nesting near the corner of Airport Road and Upper James, when your wandering involves flying into Hamilton Airport, The Pigeon offers a perfect post-flight meal.

Get your fix at this unassuming takeaway spot in Mt. Hope that features a honed-in rotating menu. Mouthwatering specials can be found on Instagram @thepigeon.hamont. Specials aside, you CANNOT go wrong

with the original fried chicken sandwich. With all menu items coming in under $12, it certainly is an accessible choice for many.

The Barton General at James and Barton is certainly not difficult to find – but a welcome addition that offshoots the James North corridor. Opened by the team behind Nique Restaurant, The Barton is a butcher shop, fish monger & bread retailer specializing in high-end local/organic meats with a focus on sustainability. They offer a concise rotating menu that showcases the protein they sell in the shop and their treatment of the meat and fish allow the ingredients to shine. The five chicken wings for $5 is a hard to beat bargain, enough to whet your appetite and encourage a purchase of some raw ingredients to prepare at home.

The results of my wandering were indeed delicious, but the requirement for Hamiltonians to wander is an issue of equity and social exclusion. Our postal codes shouldn’t dictate how easily we can acquire good food. The term food desert is fraught with issues, but the reason the term was coined remains important. This remains a challenge in Hamilton, but I am glad to see there are dedicated and creative entrepreneurs helping to create more mouth-watering choices in all deserts in this city.

With any luck, our wandering will lead us to these new food oases.

WE ARE AC C EPTING NEW PATIENTS!

CALL US TODAY! •

DR. BRYAN STEIN

DR. ELICIA KOBLIK

• www.pathwaysdental.com

R0014205965

WE OFFER SERVICES IN PORTUGUESE

URBANICITY.COM

13

So… you wanna own a restaurant?

ANONYMOUS

Age 43, Dad. 5 years with the Department of Foreign Affairs. A decade in the film industry and a decade as a restaurateur.

Avid learner of lessons the hard way.

First timer? Great life choice. Nobody’s doing it and it’s super easy. As long as you have a good concept and strong passion, you can just barrel in blindly.

All of the details will fall into place in a timely fashion, just like it did for me.

So hopefully I can help you with what I learned from my first kick at the can on 301 James North.

First, you just need to buy a commercial building OR sign a lease. Don’t worry.

Your down payment on a commercial property is comparable to a residential down payment.

BUT, if you HAVE to lease, the building owner usually shares a mutual interest in your success. And the commercial landlord/tenant act is there to protect YOU! The business owner that invests all her/his money into restoring an old building and making it profitable is well protected. They regulate your rent increase from lease to lease, just as they do for residential tenancy. They’ve got your back. You will never experience a 500% rent increase, while being held responsible for all of your lease hold improvements.

Licensing is a breeze. The city is a welloiled machine. Antiquated processes no longer exist and the steps are clearly laid out for you. All of the departments are in constant communication. All information is the same from one person to the next and the fees and wait times are almost non-existent. Every municipality has your growth as their number one priority, because they know that every day not making money, is a day losing money.

As a first-time restaurateur, don’t worry. Veterans ‘in the know’ will seek you out because they see an opportunity to help you identify YOUR weaknesses for YOUR benefit. They share your vision, your commitment to customer service, efficiency, profit and growth. You seldom need to check the references, inventory, labour costs, or cameras. Good staff is readily available and will always promote your business to customers and friends, because they know how few and far between good restaurant positions are these days.

Here’s another great side: You get to

take on the challenge of not just providing for the well-being of your immediate family, but an extra colony of people who respect you to the end of the earth for your dedication to their preservation. It’s very fulfilling, as they are always grateful for your commitment.

You are now responsible for a system of commerce that affects the punctual paying of their rent, bills, groceries, etc… in a business that fluctuates with the weather. It’s a great game in which you are always the appreciated queen or king. Just like a cool app on your phone.

Theft? No worries. NO ONE would ever steal from you. WHY?... because they all know every process that you had to go through to get where you are.

They know that you have a family to support and second to their wellbeing, your staff wants what is best for you.

And more good news for first time restaurant owners is that most staff are gifted with the insight to run your restaurant better than you… so consider yourself lucky. You’ll also never have to worry about employee inefficiencies as there’s plenty of time for ‘TED Talks’ and multiple cigarette breaks. The prepping and cleaning can wait until the resto is closed, and everyone is up to speed. This gives them the time to do it properly at their own professional pace. It’s worth the extra $27,000 per annum.

Problems don’t tend to occur and people don’t tend to bother you on your ‘off’ time. This gives you the ability to grow your friendships and for all of your personal relationships to flourish.

PLUS, now you are your own boss so you can vacation whenever you want!

Don’t worry about your neighbours!

If they are doing something that jeopardizes your business, they will change. Just talk to them. No matter how much illegal money they are making or how many desperate junkies live within or outside of their unsupervised walls, they understand that sharing is caring. They always take care of their housekeeping to ensure that the experience of your guests is paramount. If still no luck, your municipal bodies will address the problem ASAP.

And the government… they understand too. They know that restaurant sales are inconsistent due to many uncontrollable factors. They often wave late fees for payroll and HST remittance.

Everyone on social media has the best And they would never increase prointentions. Very supportive. Bloggers vincial minimum wage at your slowest are selfless people that have the per- time of year on a stat holiday, because they know how hard sonal experience to it is to make a buck understand what you AND they understand are going through and “THEFT? the toils of the small to take the time to grow NO WORRIES. business owner. They your business. They NO ONE WOULD are real people, withnever have a bad day out any privileges or and are never quick EVER STEAL undeserved pensions to judge, because they FROM YOU.” and they spend their have taken the same life entire careers dedichanging risks as you cated to the same prinin their leap to professional journalism careers. They have ciples that we all do. Also, they would never give bailouts or tax shelters to just as much to lose as you do. mishandled billion dollar corporations.

And just like in the commercials, the Hence, you can be sure that all extra big banks are there for YOU! Making tax revenue goes into taking care of the your money make sense. They know small business owners. They know that and respect the small business owner. we won’t leave the country and that we They understand that you are the one will be the ones footing the bill for the supporting local vendors, student and misspending of our formal Governor community employment, and munici- Generals. palities. They always give you the best deal on your business banking. Min- The utilities companies give you great imal fees, overdrafts, and business rates. All of their policies are more than improvement loans are at your finger- fair and their equipment is top notch, tips for first time restaurant owners. flawless. You will never run into a situation where a ‘smart metre’ took bad Another great side to restaurant own- readings to the tune of $9,000. They ership is that you can shut your phone will never demand immediate payment off after you finish your 16 hour shift. and would never think of shutting off

your gas, hydro, etc… because their ‘brain trust’ know that if you can’t make money, then they won’t get paid.

They care.

And thank goodness for insurance companies. They are such a reliable safety net. The more that you pay into them, the better your rates get. If you lose

everything due to theft, or fraudulent personal injury suits, they painlessly process your claim in a timely fashion and let you keep your current deductible rate, because they understand what you have gone through. They always give you fair replacement value for everything lost and get you up and running with no delay or consequence for your misfortune. Solid entity.

And say you decide to leave the industry, or you want to take on another profitable business, well great news! All of the equipment that you bought is still worth at least 15% of what you paid for it wholesale. It probably won’t bother you though because you were dripping in profits anyway.

So… now that you know that everyone’s on your side, you’re ready to get started. Bon chance!

Disclaimer: Unfortunately, the aforementioned was not my actual experience… but I’m out of space.

If you are so inclined, check back next month for part one of a gritty and candid account of how things went for me the first time. The fleeting highs and the long lingering lows. I won’t pull any punches. But I will change the names of those involved, to protect the identity of the guilty.

Then… I will give you a truthful account of how the great people that have come into our lives for the second time around have renewed our faith and changed our attitude toward the restaurant industry.

Stay tuned…

14

M AY 2 0 1 9 / F O O D I E I S S U E

New cookie dough shop is Instagram ready

ROBERT CEKAN

Robert is the owner and editor-in-chief of Urbanicity. Born and raised in Hamilton, his aim is to connect residents with the city beat and familiarize readers with what makes Hamilton unique.

There’s no shortage of the things people will do for that perfect picture to post online and for one particular cookie dough shop, creating a photoready space is core to the entire concept. The duo behind For Real Dough will be opening their shop this month at 256 King Street W with an aim to be “the most Instagrammable shop in Hamilton”. It’s a bit of a cross between a travelling museum, a pop-up, and Happy Place in Toronto.

The whole concept came about for a desire to create a space that takes you back to being a kid, and few things are more central to childhood than munching on cookie dough. But the owners are looking to be more than a place that

sells delicious treats — they’re creating a space where every corner of their shop is photo worthy. Unique walls with text on them, custom lighting fixtures, and fun props throughout; even the ceiling will be covered in clouds!

They’ll also have feature displays that change regularly including a bathtub full of coloured plastic balls, a telephone booth, and a two-person chair swing suspended from the ceiling. “By switching out the pieces, it protects us from being boring,” says one of the owners.

For Real Dough will also have a doggie day where dogs are allowed in and fed dog-friendly cookie dough. Ultimately, the shop’s intention is to create happy, memorable experiences that are different every time you step in.

The shop hasn’t even opened yet and it’s clear how important being social media focused is for this group. They are taking a very 21st century approach to their marketing and it’s already generated a lot of hype and a strong following online.

For Real Dough is planning to have its soft opening mid to late May and when it’s up, you can be sure that it’ll be unlike anything else in Hamilton.

Keep up with updates by following their Instagram @forrealdough

URBANICITY.COM

15

CO NTI NUE D F RO M FRO N T PAG E

“WE’RE A FUN PLACE TO BE, EVEN IF YOU DON’T LIKE SPORTS”

and there’s a few good pieces on top and then nothing underneath.” To make sure this was never the case at ODDS, Matt surveyed people to ask them what makes great nachos and then took their advice. The result? Nachos baked twice, once with a layer of cheese, then again with another layer of chips, cheese, and toppings. “We take it seriously – more seriously than we should,” admits Matt.

As guests, there’s a variety of nachos to choose from, including the Frank Thomas nachos which are so big the restaurant will cover the cost if you can finish them solo (for the record, three people have).

Typical pub fare also includes sandwiches, and ODDS worked hard to create “fun twists on sandwiches people love.” One of Matt’s favourites is the pork schnitzel; a sandwich served with the bone in (“so you can gnaw on it after, if you want”) and on a Martin’s potato bun, which ODDS has exclusive rights to in Hamilton. There’s also choices for those looking for vegetarian, vegan, or gluten-free options to enjoy. As co-owner Erin Dunham is celiac, they developed a gluten-free breading for wings to ensure those with the disease or sensitivity could still eat bar food at the restaurant. And even though it is a bar, there’s healthier items on the menu as well, like their bowls filled with ingredients like kale, spiced chickpeas, and grains.

Something else they do differently at this sports bar? Brunch. Chef Mike has 20 years’ background as a breakfast chef, and his experience allowed him to develop a unique brunch menu, including their one-of-a-kind breakfast nachos and the Hungry Human bowl.

“We’ve got great hangover options,” says general manager John.

ODDS aims to be a comfortable, cozy place. “It’s real chefs, making real food,” explains Matt. The people working there are ones that are going to get to know your name. “All our servers are career servers; this is what they do. They’re approachable, personable, professional people.”

The staff care about what they do and are proud to do it, and you feel it in the service you receive as a guest. And if you want to talk sports, they’re highly informed and ready to discuss.

ODDS has a familiar feeling, and for those who love a bit of nostalgia, there’s a classic popcorn machine serving up free kernels à la Jumbo Video of the past. “We’re a fun place to be, even if you don’t like sports,” says John. “We want everyone to feel welcome, just like you’re going to your friend’s house to hang out.”

Head to the section of the menu entitled “The Concession Stand” to find more ballpark favourites like pretzels, hot dogs, and ice cream sandwiches.

Part of what makes ODDS special is its interest in bringing new experiences to the bar. In the past they’ve hosted viewing parties for the Juno Awards, the Oscars (complete with red carpet, velvet rope, and dress up), and RuPaul’s Drag Race in collaboration with local event planners Adam & Steve. John encourages suggestions, saying “we’re always open to new ideas for events at ODDS, from reggae brunches to themed

playlists.” But first things first, ODDS is a sports bar. So if there’s something you want to watch, just ask.

With an equal focus on both the food and alcohol offerings, ODDS created a thoughtful bar program with cocktails and a beer selection featuring craft brews and old standbys. There’s a feature cocktail menu every Friday

other places.” Recently they were able to bring in Founders, based in Michigan, allowing ODDS to have one of only four kegs distributed in Ontario. The bar also carries Collective Arts, Left Field, as well as a variety of others. “If they’re not on tap, we always have new flavours in the fridge. People know to ask, as what we carry changes on a regular basis.” And if you’re a fan of the classics, you can always order a Bud Light or Old Style Pilsner.

“When guests leave, we want them feeling like they had a good time,” says John.

Whether if you’re into college basketball or couldn’t care less, ODDS wants you to feel like you’re at a friend’s place. With unlimited popcorn.

to Sunday after 9pm, conceived around a new theme that changes every week.

“We take typical sports bar drinks and elevate them for our menu,” says John.

For craft beer, ODDS carries brands like Burdock (a Toronto brand that works with wine in their beer) and Halo (also from Toronto). “We try to bring in breweries you don’t see often in Hamilton. This allows us to carry interesting flavours and diversify from

STEFANI SOLIMAN

Stefani is a social media marketer and freelance editor. She's an avid supporter of local businesses, Canadian-made goods, and fashion. Along with her love of dogs, punctuation, and the ‘90s, Stefani is a keen recycler and instrument collector.

Tell her a corny joke and you’ll be friends for life.

16

M AY 2 0 1 9 / F O O D I E I S S U E

What's in Hamilton's beer fridge?

Patio season has arrived and with it comes a fresh new set of delicious craft beers to enjoy outdoors.

Here's what Hamilton's breweries will be putting in your beer fridge this month.

COLLECTIVE ARTS BREWING 207 Burlington St E, Hamilton (289) 426-2374

GUAVA GOSE Gose, 4.9% Returning to Collective's retail store is a summer favourite of mine, this year in four packs of shorty cans. Guava Gose is their core gose Prophets & Nomads with fresh guava puree. It's tart, refreshing and delicious, stock up now for the hot weather ahead!

SURROUND SOUND V3 Double IPA w/ Columbus, Simcoe & Galaxy, 8.2% The third iteration of Surround Sound might be the best one yet! It's very fruity up front with notes of mango, peach, and grapefruit as well as a dank and piney hop bitterness. Hop heads rejoice, this double IPA has you covered.

FAIRWEATHER BREWING 5 Ofield Rd, Hamilton (289) 426-2374

MENAGERIE MOSAIC Single Hop Pale Ale, 5.5% If Fairweather's Menagerie series wasn't my favourite beer series in the province, it certainly is now!

This Mosaic version might just beat out the Idaho 7 for my favourite in the series. I get notes of mango, lemon, grapefruit, and earthy pine.

BEKI Fruited Sour Ale w/ Italian Basil, 5.4% The fourth edition of Fairweather's lemonade sour Beki features blood orange and Italian basil. I never had the original Beki, but I've had all the variants and enjoyed all of them, this one included. The basil is subtle on the finish making for a unique and tasty sour.

GRAIN & GRIT 11 Ewen Rd, Hamilton (905) 769-1320

THRILLSNER Dry-Hopped Pilsner, 4.8% While I enjoy a crispy, refreshing pilsner every now and then, it's not a style I have very often. This is definitely my kind of pilsner, though, as the dry hop brings tropical aromas and flavours of tangerine, melon, and peach. I hope this one sticks around for the summer time!

CLIFFORD BREWING

398 Nash Rd N, Hamilton (905) 560-5444

MARIGOLD Belgian Style Golden Ale, 6.9% The newest brew from Clifford is Marigold, traditional Belgian style golden ale. It has an enticing floral aroma with notes of orange, clove and black pepper. Consider gifting the Belgian Moon fan in your life this significant upgrade.

BERRY GOOD

HOP TART

Fruited Sour Ale w/ Lactose, 5%

Dry Hopped Sour, 4.5%

Berry Good is brewed with lactose, lemon zest, raspberry and black currant. Full-bodied which is nice for a change as a lot of sours tend to be thin.

This one is not too tart either, making it a good entry point for those curious about sours.

Fan favourite Hop Tart returns for the spring with a new label less likely to upset our cereal overlords.

This sessionable, citrusy, and tart brew might become my new patio beer of choice. Might as well come in six packs!

MERIT BREWING

SHAWN & ED BREWING CO.

107 James St N, Hamilton (905) 393-1024

UNWRITTEN

65 Hatt St, Dundas (289) 238-9979

Chai Milk Stout, 5.5%

LAGERSHED ORIGINAL

MERIT's imperial stout Nowhere is always a treat in the winter months, and now the 2019 barrel aged release is upon us. I haven’t had this year's version yet, but if it’s anything like last year's then we can expect it to be rich, chocolatey, and boozy. Buy a few bottles of this one to age — their website says they can be cellared for up to five years.

Pilsner, 5.2%

TOMORROWS

BARRELSHED NO. 1

Earl Grey Tripel, 9%

Amber Lager, 6.5%

Returning to MERIT's taproom is Tomorrows; a traditional Belgian tripel brewed with earl grey tea from Monarch Tea Company. While the high ABV may be intimidating for some, tea fans should enjoy this one as the flavour is very well incorporated.

Once you've wet your whistle with their LAGERSHED, it's time to enter flavour country.

BARRELSHED No. 1 is an aggressively hopped amber lager with notes of caramel, citrus, and pine. Fans of Rickard's Red or Creemore Springs should seek this out immediately.

Shawn and Ed is located in the heart of downtown Dundas in what was previously the Dundas Skating and Curling Rink. LAGERSHED Original is their flagship brew; an easy drinking pilsner that any beer drinker can get behind. Sometimes it's good to have a beer that just tastes like a beer.

VALENTINO'S 824 King St W, Hamilton (905) 393-1024

VAL'S HOUSE ALE Pale Ale, 5.1% Valentino's Westdale location has been brewing small batch beer since 2012 making it one of Hamilton's oldest craft breweries! Their house ale is a full bodied but easy drinking brew for those wanting more flavour than a light lager.

THOMAS LEWINGTON

Thomas is a craft beer enthusiast from Hamilton currently working at Great Lakes Brewery. See what he’s sipping on his Instagram @tomdrinkscraftbeer

URBANICITY.COM

17

Fertile Grounds: How Hamilton became Canada's weed capital

ADRIAN MEKLI

Adrian is a REALTOR® and graduate from McMaster’s Degroote School of Business.

He is a life-long Hamiltonian who has worked for various local firms such as CIBC, McMaster University, and Dofasco.

Hamilton recently celebrated the grand opening of Canna Cabana, the City’s first legal cannabis dispensary — an event so monumental that Mayor Fred Eisenberger even held a ribbon-cutting ceremony to mark the occasion. Hamilton will soon have a second legal dispensary selling cannabis to its residents as Hello Cannabis opens its location in Dundas (unfortunately they missed the marketing opportunity of opening on 420 aka April 20th, a well-known annual celebration of cannabis that so many other dispensaries seized). Lost in the festivities of these two legal dispensaries heralded as a big step for the City, however, is a moment of reflection on how this industry transformed Hamilton in a wild two years and the economic fallout legalization brought.

In July 2018 (prior to the legalization of cannabis for recreational use), the Hamilton Spectator wrote an article about the abundance of (illegal) cannabis dispensaries in the City. Through their research, they estimated there to be more than 80 — yes, eighty — dispensaries operating within municipal limits. The article underscored the sheer number of dispensaries operating by pointing out that there were only 76 Tim Horton’s locations in the City. Hamilton had more dispensaries per capita than any other city in the country, becoming the Weed Capital of Canada.

The reasons retail cannabis flourished in this city is often debated and the lazy answer is that our residents loved the herb more than the next city. The more nuanced and compelling theory points to the factors at play within the commercial real estate sector and the

motivations of its players, which created fertile soil (pun intended) for the growth of the cannabis “Grey Market”. The typical commercial players — tenants, landlords and lenders — each with different motives but together forming a symbiotic relationship, was the true catalyst.

Let’s start by examining the tenant. For the most part, commercial tenants have two primary desires: finding a location near their target market that will maximize sales and paying the lowest rent possible. With an abundance of vacant storefronts scattered throughout this city and commercial rents near the lowest of any city in Southern Ontario, dispensaries had their pick of the lot and were able to open up shop at a low cost anywhere in the city, from Stoney Creek to Dundas (with the highest concentration of them opening in the inner city where vacant space is most abundant and rent is cheapest).

Commercial landlords, on the other hand, are typically adverse in interest to tenants. More particularly, while the tenant seeks to minimize rent, the landlord seeks to maximize it. For Hamilton’s landlords, especially those with properties in the inner city whose “For Rent” signs have been collecting dust, the cannabis industry (whether or not yet legal) was welcomed with open arms. Not only did the industry bring prospective tenants, it brought prospective tenants willing to pay rents that were significantly above market average (usually in cash and usually with hefty prepaid rent and security deposits) — the risk premium of permitting a perhaps morally-acceptable, but still illegal, business to operate out of one’s property. The City’s attempts at cracking down on dispensaries by going after landlords for bylaw infractions were largely ineffective given the extremely favourable rents and, in any event, led to what has been described as a “whack-a-mole” situation given the seemingly-endless supply of available real estate. It was an offer too good for landlords to refuse and it was this eagerness that helped contribute to the wildfire-like spread of cannabis dispensaries throughout the City.

The last, and arguably most influential player in this commercial real estate tale, is the lender — more specifically, the alternative lender. Similar to the tenant’s balancing act between the best location and the lowest rent, a lender has a balancing act between profit and risk. Many of us can relate to the personal inquiry a bank performs when processing a residential mortgage application. They investigate an applicant’s income, length of employment, stability of income and employment, savings, credit rating, etc.

A commercial mortgage lender will use the same fine-tooth comb to determine the risk of a commercial real estate venture. They will consider a property through the building’s location and quality of its tenant(s) (if any), including length of tenure and revenues generated, etc. They will investigate the property’s history, the neighbourhood and any environmental concerns.

After taking all these factors (and many more) into consideration to determine value and risk, they reach a conclusion on whether a property is worthy of lending.

As a generalization, it is my experience that, given the above-noted economic realities of our commercial real estate market, lending institutions (particularly, the A lenders like the big five banks) see Hamilton as risky and aren’t keen on lending here. However, there has been a growth in recent years of alternative lenders (including unregulated, private lenders). Even though the borrower faces higher fees and interest with such lenders, they may be able to avoid the scrutiny, inflexibility and conditions that often come with using RBC, TD, and the like.

One such condition that the banks were placing in their loan documents was that borrowers could not lease out the premises to recreational cannabis dispensaries. This condition was circumvented through the availability of alternative lending options. Through the use of alternative lending solutions, financing was not necessarily a hindrance to the Hamilton landlord wishing to capitalize on this emerging market.

The perfect storm between a growing industry eager for locations, desperate landlords and the absence of any lending restrictions — in basic economic terms, sufficient supply to match a high demand — is the more complete story as to why the cannabis industry flourished and earned Hamilton the title of “Weed Capital of Canada”. So, when Mayor Eisenberger cut that ribbon to mark the start of something great, what was the City really celebrating? At its peak, the retail cannabis industry operated 80 locations in Hamilton. Given the Province’s cap on cannabis retail licences, there are now only two dispensaries in the City likely to survive.

At an average size of 1,000 square feet per location (a conservative assumption), they occupied 80,000 square feet of commercial retail space throughout the city. With that much inventory swallowed up, rents increased.

This economic lift is harder to quantify, but should be mentioned nonetheless. Some straightforward arithmetic reveals that at an average rental rate of $15 per square foot (a conservative assumption), local Hamilton landlords were earning $12 million in rent every year from the retail cannabis industry.

If we use Canna Cabana as a benchmark, they employee 15 mostly fulltime employees at their 2,500 square foot location in the Centre on Barton.

If we extrapolate that employee ratio, it means each 1,000 square foot dispensary employed about 6 people. 80 locations employing 6 people each is 480 people employed by the industry.

Assuming a modest $15/hour wage, that’s $15 million in annual wages lost

by Hamiltonians — in addition to lost revenues — as a result of the Province restricting the now-legal retail sale of cannabis.

So when we see the Mayor cut that ribbon to celebrate the opening of our first legal cannabis retailer, let’s also remember that politics forced this city to lose hundreds of jobs, robbed local landlords of rent, and ravaged any momentum the retail commercial sector experienced back to streets of empty storefronts.

TRIVIA ANSWERS 1. Ancaster 2. Wilson Street 3. Mustard. The Hamilton company G.S. Dunn Limited incorporated the same year Canada was founded and has since made our city the mustard capital of North America given its massive production and global use.

4. Canadian Premier League. The inaugural game was held on April 27th, 2019 at Tim Hortons Field.

18

M AY 2 0 1 9 / F O O D I E I S S U E

The

Best

Bake Shops in Hamilton for 2019 PA N E D EL S O L E 175 John St N, Hamilton (905) 529-0949

Starting the list is the Italian bakery Pane Del Sole at Cannon and John. What we like here is that it has a place to sit down to relax and reflect as you munch of one of their classic Italian pastries.

They also have reasonably priced cakes for family get-togethers and on the opposite side is a hot table and deli if you’re more than peckish.

LI N A ’S PAS T RIES 35 York Blvd, Hamilton (905) 645-5678

While far from the most visually impressive stall at the Hamilton Farmers’ Market, Lina’s is like an oasis at the end of the lower level with trays upon trays of delicious baked goods.

We’re fans of the lemon twists and brownies, and where else can you get a gingerbread man all year round? For sheer entertainment, pull up one of the nearby seats and watch the staff happily move between the pastry stall and the coffee stall, warmly but efficiently taking care of everyone’s needs.

B ITTE N

219 Locke St S, Hamilton (289) 396-5321

These guys don’t have as diverse an offering as some others on our list, but if you’re looking for a great cupcake, you can’t go wrong with Bitten.

While they may be famous for their over-the-top cupcakes, their butter tarts are some of the best in the city.

E RC ILIA’S FINE FOODS 35 York Blvd, Hamilton (289) 808-4901

Ercilia’s is one of my favourite spots to end my weekly market trip with. Without a doubt one of the sweetest, most pleasant vendors who is always happy to connect me with an espresso and most importantly, a warm Portuguese nata with cinnamon sprinkled on top.

CAK E AN D L OAF 321 Dundurn St S, Hamilton (289) 389-6581

Definitely not the cheapest on our list, but you can’t argue with the quality of the baked goods here. They have something to satisfy you for any occasion, whether it’s some sweets for dessert, pot pies, and other entrees for lunch. This is also one of the only places on the list where you can also get your caffeine fix.

BEYON D THE BATTER BAK ERY 1791 Stone Church Rd E, Hamilton (905) 561-6777

Tucked away in a power centre in Upper Stoney Creek, they took us up on our Hamilton Tiger-Cat baked good challenge last year, smashed it, and we have been fans ever since.

In addition to some killer cupcakes, they also make one of the best cookie sandwiches in the city. You can also find their cupcakes integrated into desserts at Cause and Effect across the street.

URBANICITY.COM

19

Here’s Steeltown Chowdown’s top 10 bake shops in Hamilton!

SW EET PA RA D IS E

630 Stone Church Rd W, Hamilton (905) 389-3487

Getting into a fistfight in the insane parking lot at Sweet Paradise is kind of a rite of passage in Hamilton. They should make you navigate it on a Saturday morning before you can buy a house on the West Mountain.

But if you happen to land one of the coveted spots, there are incredible sandwiches, pastas, breads, pastries, and one of the best apple fritters in the city. It’s crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside, and not at all greasy.

PUNC H B OW L BAKE RY AND M ARKE T 136 Ridge Rd, Stoney Creek (905) 662-1665

Just up the road from the Devil’s Punch Bowl is an angelic barn that’s home to some of the best baked goods in the city.

Their specialty is butter tarts, and for good reason.

These baked goods are terrific, with great pastry and plenty of options for raisin, walnut, and plain fans alike. Our all-time favourites are the cookies, which are literally as big as your head and could serve as dessert for an entire week.

WEI L ’S OF WESTDAL E BA K ERY 981 King St W, Hamilton (905) 527-6751

We’re like a Pavlovian dog when the bell attached to their door goes off. When I hear that signature ring, I know I’m in for a wide variety of goodies from sweet treats like cinnamon rolls and lemon bars, to savoury items like quiche and pizza.

How do you know it’s good? Walk in any day of the week and you’ll see boxes upon boxes of cake and pie orders waiting to be picked up from folks who have made the right choice by trusting Weil’s.

CRU M B U N S B A K E S H OP 788 Concession St, Hamilton (289) 674-6000

SEE WHAT’S HATCHING AT NEST! Unique Canadian handmade gifts and home decor items for animal lovers.

Crumbuns is best in class across pretty much every category: inventiveness, variety, quality, service, and value.

You can’t go wrong with one of their namesake crumbuns (like coffee cake, but good), empire cookies, or pizza rolls, but their home run is the mini cheesecakes.

A rotating mix, they all have an incredible crust, sweet cheesecake base, and unique flavours. You’ll never go back to other cheesecake again.

171 Locke St. S. Unit 2 nesthamilton.com info@nesthamilton.com