Special Mention

WORDS HAYLEY BARNETT

After studying various angles and heights from which to take some snaps of Special Mention’s famed burger, I resort to asking for a knife. “I’m pulling chef rank and declining the request,” owner and chef Lex Mawson says, overhearing me. “This is hand food.” He laughs and disappears into the kitchen to get some cutlery. While the knife was solely for a photo of the generously proportioned Chicken Sando, rather than for eating with, Lex’s reply sums up the vibe of the very special Special Mention.

This neighbourhood treasure is fun and relaxed with an emphasis on quality food you won’t be able to keep your hands off. It’s also highly personable, the sort of place where you quickly become a regular. Indeed, during our lunchtime visit, it seemed like every person in the joint was on a firstname basis with Lex and his staff.

One sip of their coffee or bite of their food makes it abundantly clear why people keep returning. Both are excellent. The coffee is full of flavour, without leaving a bitter or strong aftertaste, and the food tastes even better than it looks.

“It’s food that I like to eat,” Lex explains, when asked about the inspiration behind their compact-yet-mouth-watering menu. “Smash burgers particularly.” Although the burgers are popular, head chef Adam designed most of the menu, which offers dishes for nearly every dietary need. But since Lex is in the kitchen today, the burgers have taken centre stage. The BBL Gonz Burger is the house speciality and comes with two smashed patties made from organic Hawke’s Bay beef, two layers of American cheese, pickles, onion and heavenly ATK sauce, all sitting in between a toasted brioche bun.

A true burger enthusiast, the BBL Gonz is the result of years of crafting and refining on Lex’s part. “It’s been constant fine-tuning,” he says. “Everything from getting the right pickles, finding local ingredients and the right cheese. Even acquiring the right tools.”

At this he nips back into the kitchen and returns holding what looks like a comically oversized steel stamp. This is the secret behind the burger, the specially imported 2kg stainless steel smasher that he uses to smash the perfect pattie. It’s so effective that there’s a note of pride in his voice when he reveals that their burger has no binding agent. It’s 100 percent organic beef.

Lex started out making burgers on a Friday night for family and friends for fun, then realised they were so good he could sell them. He and his wife Hollie began taking preorders that people could pick up from their home on Friday night. This led to a series of pop-ups before becoming a regular fixture at the night markets, and now, finally, their own café. Although that wasn’t always the plan. “I live close by and always said I’d only open a place if I could do it in this venue,” he says, citing their joint want to avoid working nights in order to spend time with their three children. “I appreciate proximity.”

As do his patrons. Special Mention is already so established in the neighbourhood, Arataki, that it’s hard to believe it only opened five months ago. That said, the pair are still eager to explore the special opportunities having their own cafe allows. They’ve been experimenting with their own pop-up Friday nights, a recent success was a prosecco and hot dog night, as well as hosting a gig by UNO’s cover star, Georgia Lines.

“That was really great,” Lex enthuses, then lets UNO in on some secret squirrel plans they’re currently working on, before swearing us to secrecy.

With its on-point styling, you’d be forgiven for nabbing a table inside when you first walk in. This would be a mistake. Instead, order and head out into the covered courtyard where you can enjoy the rays and the superb music selection which, while I’m there, covers modern classics from the likes of Frank Ocean, right through to disco deep cuts from Boney M.

It all adds up to somewhere very special indeed, and a place definitely worthy of a mention.