The Politics of Natural Hair

A history of discrimination and how the CROWN Act is fighting back.

by MYKENNA MANIECE graphics by GEORGIA FLAVELL

Unprofessional. Unattractive. Distracting. These are just some of the words that have been used to describe Black women’s hair in workplaces, schools, and society at large. Hairbased discrimination is rooted in a history of racial discrimination and has left many Black people feeling like they must conform to European beauty standards in order to be valued or desired.

The CROWN Act, which stands for Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair, was created by the brand Dove and the CROWN Coalition in 2019 after a number of publicized hair discrimination incidents.

For example, in December 2018, a Black high school student in New Jersey was forced to either cut off his dreadlocks or forfeit his wrestling match. There have also been several cases of young girls being suspended from school because of their hairstyles.

To quantify these experiences, JOY Collective conducted a research study of 2000 women (1000 Black and 1000 White) who were full-time employees working in office or sales settings, or who had worked in a corporate office in the past six months.

The findings, though not surprising, were a sad reminder of how much work remains to be done in the fight against racial injustices. Consider the following statistics:

• Black women are 80% more likely to agree with the statement, “I have to change my hair from its natural state to fit in at the office.” • Black women’s hair is 3.4x more likely to be perceived as unprofessional. • Black women are 30% more likely to be made aware of a formal workplace appearance policy. If you’re shocked, or wondering where these attitudes and beliefs come from, here’s a brief rundown on the history of how Black hair has been stigmatized and policed in the United States.

Prior to slavery, hair was a significant part of people’s identities, in many African tribes. When the slave trade began, one of the first acts of violence against slaves was the shaving of their heads—an instant erasure of identity regardless of gender. Later, in the late 1700s, Governor Esteban Rodriguez Miró enacted the Tignon Laws, which required Creole women of color to cover their hair with a scarf. This was done in part because Miró was disturbed by white men’s attraction to these women, as well as to indicate that they were members of the slave class, despite many of these women being “free.”

During Reconstruction, advertisements for products that would make Black women’s hair more “beautiful” and “pleasing”—read straight and smooth—appealed to those facing pressures to assimilate. When the Black Panther Party rose to prominence in the 60s and 70s, their signature afros were a powerful symbol of defiance. Unfortunately, relaxers and flat irons rose back to prominence, that is, up until recently when the natural hair movement resurged like never before.

As more and more women continue to embrace their kinks and curls, they’ve had to fight against outdated, racist standards of professionalism and beauty. The CROWN Act seeks to offer protection by prohibiting “racebased hair discrimination, which is the denial of employment and educational opportunities because of hair texture or protective hairstyles including braids, locs, twists, or Bantu knots.”

Now law in just eight states—you may be happy to know New York is one of them—it’s important to continue pushing for change until the CROWN Act is considered the standard for the entire nation. To get involved you can sign their petition, contact legislators, and even tell your friends!