delicious_27

Here comes the summer sun issue 27

issue 27

Here comes the summer sun

St. Christopher Str. Valletta one80 Takes the City!

Creative, fresh, always flavourful.

Savour the flavours of our ever-changing menu.

Open for lunch and dinner daily in the heart of Valletta.

A TR ADITION R O OT ED I N E XC EL L EN C E WWW.ELIA.COM.MT

W: one80.com.mt E: valletta@one80.com.mt T: +356 27800040

68, VILLAMBROSA STREET, HAMRUN HMR1129 T: 2124 6920 / 2122 7085 E: INFO@ELIA.COM. MT

Here comes the summer sun The American economist, Winona LaDuke once noted, “Food for us comes from our relatives, whether they have wings or fins or roots. That is how we consider food.

Food has a culture. It has a history. It has a story. It has relationships.”

A quote which says it all. A quote which raises a thousand questions. Primarily do we know our food irrespective of whether it is a light lunch, an intimate dinner or a special occasion? Is food just a basic necessity of life? The answer is quite subjective yet also objective urging us to question how media is projecting food, how food suppliers are presenting food, how the state itself promotes food. Sadly, we, as consumers are being fed the wrong message missing out on what it is really all about - A pleasure, an experience, a way of communicating, a way of connecting, a part of our history, a part of our culture, a part of our identity and above all a part of who we are. Truly so, because as the saying goes, “Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you who you are.”

Here comes the summer sun

issue 27

Publishing Editor Omar Vella | Design ArtHouse Design Studio Printing & Publishing Union Print Co. Ltd | Proof Reading Ramona Vella Cini COVER Photo Belmond | Cold Trout and Mashwa by chef PÍA LEÓN BACK COVER Photo Gabriele Stabile | Zuppetta di chia al latte di cocco e frutta di stagione by chef VALENTINO CASSANELLI

Disclaimer: Particular attention has been given to ensure that all the content of this magazine is correct and up to date as on date of issue. The views expressed in the articles, interviews and photogrphs are those of the authors and are not neccessarily endorsed by the publisher. While every care has been taking during production, the publisher does not accept any liability for errors that may have occurred. Copyright © 2023.

1

CHEF SANTIAGO LASTRA AT KOL

2

The Marriage of Food and Research For chef Santiago Lastra, cooking has always gone hand in hand with research. The science, technology and history are as much a part of what’s on the plate as the ingredients, inspiration and technique.

Born in Mexico City, Santiago was raised just south of there in Cuernavaca, known locally as “The City of Eternal Spring.” The young Santiago wanted to be a mathematician rather than a chef, competing in Maths Olympic events more attracted to research and problem-solving. This sense of curiosity inspired Santiago’s first attempt at cooking.

Noticing a recipe for Crab Dip on the back of a packet of Ritz Crackers, he purchased the ingredients and prepared it for his family. Then, aged 15, he started working part-time in a local Italian restaurant.

After graduating high school at 18, Santiago was offered an internship at 1 Michelin-starred Europa Restaurante in Pamplona and moved to Spain, where he worked for two years. He returned to Mexico to study at the Instituto Arte Culinario Coronado before leaving again for Spain. He worked for fifteen months at Mugaritz while completing a Master’s Degree in Culinary Innovation at the Basque Culinary Centre.

From Mugaritz, like many chefs of his generation, Santiago moved to Copenhagen.

There, he began a development course at the prestigious Nordic Food Lab in the University of Copenhagen, researching how to make tortillas using Nordic grains.

Photos: Rebecca Dickson

3

While in Russia in 2016, Santiago received a message that would change the course of his career. His world tour had introduced him to many global chefs, food writers, and journalists. When René Redzepi had his idea to take Noma to Mexico for a 7-week pop-up to Tulum in the country’s southwest, he was looking for a project manager – and Santiago’s name was recommended.

4

The Marriage of Food and Research

Driven by a desire to build a community – restaurant team, local producers and suppliers, guests – Santiago sought the perfect location and settled in London.

5

While he jokes that it was because he was bored of sunshine, London ticked all the relevant boxes: a cosmopolitan and well-travelled population, open to trying something new; a familiarity with spice – thanks to its national love of Indian food; a city recognised as one of the world’s greatest culinary locations; a connection to Mexico.

The Marriage of Food and Research

6

He opened KOL in 2020. Situated in London, five minutes from London’s landmark Marble Arch, he celebrates Mexican culture’s vibrancy and rich heritage through a nostalgic yet subjective contemporary lens. Additionally, he uses produce meticulously sourced from Britain, and all of these aspects, married with Santiago’s unbridled curiosity and dedication, blend to perfect Michelin-starred effect.

7

The Marriage of Food and Research

8

KOL is five minutes from London’s landmark Marble Arch, with a main dining room at ground floor level, The Chef’s Table and Mezcaleria downstairs. The comfortable interiors of the restaurant have been created around a central show kitchen, where guests can observe the respect given to the food as each dish is prepared. The design blends textural elements of stucco, clay, and travertine with leather, oak, and elm wood features.

Colours are based on an earthy palette in various hues of yellow, pink, and burnt orange in an ode to the streets of Mexico.

KOL is a restaurant and Mezcaleria and home to the award-winning cuisine of Chef Santiago Lastra. Originally from Mexico, Santiago has created strong, bold menus that celebrate his homeland’s rich cultural tastes, aromas, and textures with meticulously sourced seasonal British produce. Part craftsman, part researcher, his cuisine is a contrast of elegance and balance that uniquely interprets Britain through a Mexican lens, melding the diverse landscapes and seas of both. The complexity of his cuisine is celebrated by a wine list that boasts 100% biodynamic and organic wine from Central and Eastern Europe, the minerality of which are robust and dense enough to match the intricate balance of his dishes.

KOL

The Mezcaleria and The Chef’s Table are punctuated by selected artworks - alternating Mexican folk art and contemporary British-crafted objects.

Service throughout is attentive, personal, and knowledgeable.

Downstairs, the popular stand-alone bar, Mezcaleria, specialises in mezcal and other premium Mexican spirits. Mirroring the kitchen’s philosophy, cocktails are made using agave-based spirits paired with seasonal British ingredients.

9

In addition, the Mezcaleria offers an accompanying food menu in the form of Antojitos - little cravings. The informal yet refined Antojitos are given equal prominence to the drinks.

Downstairs is KOL’s private dining room, the Chef’s Table. With views into its dedicated kitchen, the room seats up to 20 guests for private events in secluded comfort around a central sharing table.

Photo: Charlie McKay

AN ICONIC

PLACE Review on House of Flavors

What makes a restaurant truly iconic?

It is probably iconic in the food it offers. It is probably iconic because of its ambience and vibe. It is probably iconic because of its service. Most probably, House of Flavors in Santa Venera may be coined as iconic because it brings together all these elements.

A feeling you get when you set foot through the door of House of Flavors that tells you you’re in for an utterly unique, treasured experience — one that you’ll be talking about for quite some time.

10

11

AN ICONIC

PLACE

A feeling you will get at House of Flavors visible in the in of theFlavors choice A feeling you vibrant will getcolours, at House of furniture, the type of lighting, the visible in thein vibrant colours, in the in choice style of music. feeling you will getininthe of furniture, in A the type of lighting, the presence of plants andget flowers stylestrong of music.

A feeling you will in visible in every corner that place.

A the strong presence ofof plants and flowers feeling you will corner get in the styleplace. of cutlery. visible in every of that A Nothing is left chance in that feeling you willto get in the because style of cutlery. iconic eatery detail because matters. in Every Nothing is leftevery to chance that item, it a decoration, cutlery or any iconicbe eatery every detaila matters.

Every other accessory matters.aThey matter item, be it a decoration, cutlery or any because as oncematters. noted byThey Alainmatter Ducasse, other accessory “Food is one partnoted of theby experience.

And because as once Alain Ducasse, it has to be somewhere 50 And to “Food is one part of the between experience.

60 percent the diningbetween experience.

But it has to be of somewhere 50 to the rest counts as dining well: The mood, the 60 percent of the experience.

But atmosphere, theasmusic, the feeling, the the rest counts well: The mood, the design, the harmony between what the you atmosphere, the music, the feeling, have onthe theharmony plate andbetween what surrounds design, what youthe plate.”

A the principle Friggieri, managing have on plate Alex and what surrounds the director House Alex of Flavors hasmanaging learnt in plate.” A of principle Friggieri, his entrepreneurial director of House ofjourney.

Flavors has learnt in his entrepreneurial journey.

Yet food does play a key role at the House of Food, a lot of role food.atDifferent YetFlavors. food does play a key the House types of food.

Different food. of Flavors.

Food, a lot ofstyles food. of Different But above all, good food.styles A selection types of food.

Different of food. of thatall,includes a breakfast menu Butfood above good food.

A selection which a full aEnglish breakfast, of foodincludes; that includes breakfast menu: omelettes andbreakfast, toasts. A omelettes selection of food a full English and that includes a vastofrange snacks which toasts.

A selection foodof that includes includes, ftajjar, baguettes, ciabattas, a vast range of snacks, ftajjar, baguettes, focaccias wraps.and wraps. ciabattas, and focaccias 12

And for those who prefer a more elaborate meal, the place includes an interesting selection of starters which are a combination of East and West including; Indian spice calamari, nachos and fried rabbit liver. The selection of pastas and risotto are to die for and quite a challenge to decide what to opt for. The mains or also impressive with a good selection of meats, fish and chicken. For those who prefer a more exotic option, the House of Flavors includes an Indian special menu and also a sushi menu. Ah! And there is also a gluten free menu option.

It would be unfair to talk about House of Flavors without mentioning their impressive drinks menus with a vast selection of gins, cocktails, spirirts, wines, beers and ciders.

No matter what you choose, no matter what you eat or drink, all is served with an impeccable service which focuses on attention and detail. No matter what you choose, the service is provided with a smile. A smile you will surely have the moment you will leave the place.

13

A truly lavish experience Sheltered among the imposing bastions that rest on the Marsamxett harbour shoreline, a few meters away from the Valletta Waterpolo pitch, lies one of Malta’s leading restaurants. Since the outlet opened its doors, Capo Crudo took the market by storm piquing the curiosity of all local and foreign gastro enthusiasts.

The outlet has a touch of class which is complemented by a good dose of contemporary feel and a pinch of boldness which is evident in the choice of furniture and decor including the glossy red, life-size sculpture of a bowing man and other bright coloured patterns near the entrance. The restaurant is divided in open plan sections where on entering one enters the cocktail bar and lounge, from which one moves to the main restaurant; on one side the open kitchen is situated and on the other side a top class wine cellar; from there one finds a semi private dining area with a large chef’s table set-up . The outlet’s relaxed ambience is well complemented by the magnificent open views of Marsamxett harbour and the Sliema seafront through the glass partition outside walls.

The center of attraction at Capo Crudo is food. The menu is indeed a pleasure for the eye with such an impressive selection of crudi, and carpacci to start with, an astonishing choice of starters and pasta to follow and a jaw dropping selection of fish and meat main courses which include lamb confit and braised octopus among others. No meal would end on a sweet note without a selection of desserts to choose from. Every item on the menu has a story waiting to be discovered by all those who choose to dine at Capo Crudo. To accompany every meal, Capo Crudo offers a vast selection of wines available sourced from the best wineries across the globe. The place also boasts a great selection of liquors and spirits which serve as a perfect intro or conclusion to any meal.

It is by no coincidence that Capo Crudo boasts an impressive accolade of awards which includes Best Chef Award 2018 - Chef’s Award for artistic Presentation - Front of House Manager Achievement Award - Restaurant Award Winner 2019 - Wine experience of the year 2018 Awards for the 30 best restaurants in the Maltese Islands - Award for participation Cibo Nostrum 2018 - Award for the top best 50 restaurants Malta - Award for participation Sicilia da Gustare Silver spoon award 2019 - Award for participation Cookin’Med - 2018 Award winner most popular for Business Entertainment - Award for participation Cibo Nostrum 2019. Capo Crudo was confirmed in the Michelin Guide list 2022.

Whilst driving down to Valletta, keep in mind Capo Crudo and make sure you drop for an unforgettable food experience.

15

MARK DONALD & THE GLENTURRET LALIQUE RESTAURANT

16

Nestled at the foothills of the Scottish Highlands on the banks of the River Turret lies Scotland’s oldest working distillery. The Glenturret Distillery has been operational since 1763 and has a fascinating history.

More recently, in 2019, the Lalique Group, with a strong culinary identity and warm links to the Scottish whisky community became the custodians of The Glenturret in a successful partnership with entrepreneur HansJörge Wyss.

The result was the introduction of The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant, and under the guidance of Scottish Chef Mark Donald, the first Michelin-starred restaurant in a distillery. (2022) With views over looking the River Turret, the ancient grounds of the distillery surround the dining room. Mark and his team enjoy the benefits of Scotland’s larder on their doorstep and have close ties with artisanal growers, producers, breeders and fishers, often foraging themselves.

The menu showcases the very best ingredients from throughout Scotland, the wider UK and, where applicable, beyond.

There is playfulness in Chef Mark Donald’s dishes. Still, there is balance, precision and an innate sense of place in their execution.

Photos: Marc Miller

17

The unorthodox career path chosen by chef Mark Donald was neither traditional nor typical, but then again, neither is his cuisine.

Mark’s original plan to pursue a career in the arts was successful. With a coveted interview at the renowned Royal Conservatoire of Scotland (RSAMD) in place, he washed dishes in a pub kitchen in Glasgow near his home for extra summer money before commencing his student life.

The young teenager was intrigued by the kitchen and quickly moved to a local restaurant before deferring his studies.

With his curiosity ignited, Mark found a different path to express his creative voice, resulting in permanently cancelling his place at the RSAMD. The practical training in the kitchen became his university.

At 19 years of age, he headed to Australia, working in various hotels and 18

restaurants from Cairns to Melbourne.

The Aussie love of food, the fun and enjoyment of dining, and the discovery of new and delicious ingredients opened up a new world. He returned to Scotland determined, focused and committed to improving his craft.

At age 20 in 2006, with no formal qualification or culinary education, Mark secured a position as CDP at Stravaigin in Glasgow, where he was introduced to the enormity of the Scottish larder. Two years later, determined to improve his technical skills, he moved to 2 Michelinstarred Restaurant Andrew Fairlie at the Gleneagles Hotel for the first of what would be two stints. Here, Mark learnt the craft of cooking under the tutelage and direction of Fairlie and his team. By now, he was all in and hungry for more.

Taking a year to diversify his experience while maintaining the connection to location that was so prevalent in his training in Scotland, Mark staged at

Noma Copenhagen with chef Rene Redzepi. But Scotland pulled him back, and in 2010 he returned to Restaurant Andrew Fairlie, where he stayed for two and half years achieving Junior Sous.

While London was never a permanent destination for Mark, he was curious about the city’s challenging and dynamic restaurant energy. He moved to Hibiscus, chef Claude Bosi’s award-winning 2 Michelin-starred Mayfair restaurant. It was a fortuitous move. Not only did he gain experience and knowledge, but Hibiscus is where he met Madelaine, his Australian wife, who was also working in the restaurant. After two and a half years in London, the couple moved to Sydney in 2015. With a wealth of experience and a solid CV, Mark became head chef of Bentleys for chef Brent Savage, a hugely popular 2 Hat restaurant in Sydney’s CBD.

But it was always about Scotland. For Mark, his cooking transcends knowledge alone; it is about a connection to his identity, his soul. So in 2018, The couple decided to make Scotland their permanent home, where they both gained positions in the landmark Balmoral Hotel in Edinburgh. As chef of Number One, Mark retained the restaurant’s Michelin star from his arrival.

2020 changed everything for everyone; like many, the Donalds reviewed their life. A need to be more connected, to leave the city behind, and for Mark to finally have the to cook and discover his own style saw them head to the picturesque foothills of the Scottish Highlands.

Located in the Perthshire village of Crieff is Scotland’s oldest working whisky distillery, The Glenturret. The traditions, values and vision of The Glenturret Distillery resonated with Mark, as did

their motto ‘By Hand and Heart, since 1763’. On the first of February 2021, Mark took over the kitchens of The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant. With full support and creative freedom, he had finally found his home.

Mark Donald’s cuisine threads together the story of a young boy from Glasgow who set out on a creative journey, took an unexpected detour spanning four continents before finding his way home.

His menu speaks of his never-ending curiosity, love of exceptional produce, personality and innate humour, all unified and supported by award-winning technical expertise. There is a sense of place in his menu and heartfelt welcome.

In March 2022, after only seven months from opening, Mark and his team at The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant were awarded a Michelin Star, a first for a Scottish distillery.

19

20

THE GLENTURRET LALIQUE RESTAURANT The 30-seated restaurant is located in the middle of the distillery and commands views across the river to surrounding forests and hills. Rightfully the rich green and blue palate from the Glenturret and Murray tartans adorns the furnishings. The oak beams overhead house two feature Lalique Champ-Elysées chandeliers that bathe the restaurant in a golden light, highlighting the centuries-old stonewalls.

Scottish chef Mark Donald’s cooking tells a story of the land and the surroundings.

He captures the essence of the distillery in his menus with nods to the distillation process cleverly weaved into his cuisine.

Bespoke Lalique glass and tableware are purposefully chosen as elegant storytellers of each dish.

Service is friendly, informed and expertly led by Restaurant Manager Emilio Muñoz, whose CV reads like a Who’s Who of globally acclaimed restaurants.

The enviable wine cellar, curated by Executive Sommelier Julien Beltzung, boasts an extensive list of fine wines, boutique vintages and small producers.

With his actively evolving list, Julian champions smaller production vineyards that sit alongside the rare vintages from the impressive cellar of co-owner Silvio Denz of the Lalique Group. Access to this private selection offers some of the most exclusive wines from famed wine regions throughout France and Italy.

The cuisine carries through to the bar and lounge, where a different menu is offered for lunch, alongside cocktails, premium spirits and wines, and an extensive selection of over 400 whiskies. The same ingredients, the same sense of place and the same joyful pleasure are evoked in the bar’s lunch menu.

21

The Michelin Guide Malta 2023 The MICHELIN Guide Malta 2023 was launched earlier in March featuring 35 restaurants spread across the islands of Malta and Gozo and includes six restaurants awarded One MICHELIN Star and four restaurants awarded a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand.

The highlight of the launch is the addition of a new MICHELIN Star. Fernandõ Gastrotheque joins five existing Star restaurants, which all retain their award, making Malta an increasingly attractive gastronomic destination.

The five restaurants which were awarded One MICHELIN Star in the 2022 Guide all retain their Star status for another year. These are: Under Grain in Valletta; Noni in Valletta; ION – The Harbour in Valletta; De Mondion in Mdina; and Bahia in Balzan.

Five new restaurants also joined the Michelin Guide Malta 2023 selection. They are: Giuseppi’s, Naxxar; Loa, St. Paul’s Bay; Grotto Tavern, Rabat; Legligin, Valletta; and Rosamì, St. Julian’s.

This brings the 2023 Malta selection up to 35 Michelin-recommended restaurants.

The Bib Gourmand status maintained the same restaurants - Terrone, Vittoriosa; Commando, Mellieħa; Grain Street, Valletta; and Rubino, Valletta. These restaurants represent good quality and good value cooking.

The inclusion of local restaurants in such a prestigious certification is a confirmation of Malta’s food excellence and a proof of the island’s talent in such a cutthroat industry. It also confirms the government’s forward looking vision for the sector as well as the efforts by both the Malta Tourism Authority and the Institute for Tourism Studies for such an important industry to continue to thrive.

22

As noted by Michelin Guides international director Gwendal Poullennec to The Times of Malta; “The development of the Maltese culinary scene is extremely exciting, with the selection of an additional five new restaurants that take their inspiration from the Mediterranean region, yet without holding back on the occasional touch of fusion to surprise and delight gourmets. Whether for its UNESCO-designated heritage, its status as a Mediterranean crossroads, its ancient history or its colourful and joyful cuisine, Malta has everything needed to seduce travellers.”

Nevertheless, pertinent was the press release issued by the Association of Catering Establishments (ACE) which noted that such list is not a true reflection of what is being achieved by various catering establishments.

ACE noted that there are various establishments that are heavily investing their resources and talent to achieve such level, some of which are also a clear reflection of the farm and fork concept so much touted both on an international and local level. Some are also working on niche food concepts which are at par to what is being offered by leading international eateries.

As well noted by ACE, the gist of Michelin is primarily to truly reflect the talent and quality of a country’s catering industry. A principle which they feel is not necessarily being achieved year after year with the Michelin Guide list.

23

One MICHELIN Star High quality cooking, worth a stop!

FERNANDO GASTROTHEQUE

A small quiet bistro in French style which is informal yet elegant, with contemporary furnishings, subtle lighting and soft background music.

The highly talented chef here creates Mediterranean dishes with the occasional international touch and plenty of character, all prepared from the best seasonal ingredients. The wine list is worth a mention, featuring over 600 labels from across the globe with a particular emphasis on France and Italy. The restaurant is located in a small street at the back of the lively Sliema, a little town rich in tourism with a waterfront that features restaurants, bars and a busy promenade. The restaurant is small and intimate, and from its windows you can watch the world pass by on the street as if you were out there yourself.

24

NONI

What was once the home of ‘Xmun Borg & Sons Bakery & Confectionery’ is now an equally appealing restaurant; sit at ground level for a quiet meal or, for a livelier ambience, head downstairs, past the kitchen, to the stylish, stonewalled cellar. The restaurant’s moniker comes from the nickname of chef-owner Jonathan Brincat – whose passion involves bringing a refined, modern approach to traditional Maltese and Mediterranean cuisine.

The attentive team are happy to make recommendations from the concise menu, which showcases quality seasonal ingredients in visually appealing, well-balanced dishes, cooked with a measured approach and an eye for detail. A fairly priced list of local and Italian wines provides the perfect accompaniment.

ION

From the moment you step out of the lift, the team at ION Harbour put all their effort into creating a memorable experience. It’s set on the 4th floor of a hotel and the magnificent view from the terrace over the Grand Harbour provides an amazing backdrop for your meal. The restaurant itself is stylish yet informal, with some tables able to catch a glimpse into the kitchen, and service is second-to-none, with some excellent wine recommendations from the passionate sommelier. Mediterranean cuisine is prepared using modern techniques and is beautifully presented, with careful attention paid to detail and colour. The highly talented chef makes a point of choosing ingredients of the highest quality for his dishes.

DE MONDION

The luxurious Xara Palace Hotel is set in a 16th century building in the heart of the beautiful walled city of Mdina and, on its top floor, you’ll find this intimate, elegantly dressed restaurant featuring impressive artwork of the island. If you’re here in the summer, a table on the terrace is a must, to enjoy stunning views out across the east of the island to the coast.

At De Mondion cooking is technically adept and combinations, well-judged, with menus showcasing the best of the island’s produce in sophisticated, classically based Mediterranean dishes – the suckling pig is a speciality. The impressive wine list offers a broad choice with some great quality vintages and it’s worth asking the sommelier for recommendations from their local selection. Despite the hotel’s sumptuous style, service remains friendly and not overly formal.

BAHIA

Bahia is located on the first floor of the elegant Corinthia Palace Hotel. The restaurant is named after the prestigious naval orange which is grown in the region, and a preserved orange tree sits at the centre of one of the dining rooms. The other room features an open kitchen and both areas are bright, elegant and incredibly comfortable.

The talented kitchen headed by Tyrone Mizzi offers two 7-course surprise menus: ‘Past’ takes diners back in time with sophisticated dishes inspired by various periods in Maltese history, including the Stone Age and Roman times, while ‘Future’ allows diners to explore new, sometimes daring combinations of flavours in dishes which push boundaries. Meanwhile, ‘Present’ is a seasonally changing à la carte menu which focuses on local ingredients delivered in a contemporary vein.

UNDER GRAIN

Enter the Rosselli Hotel and descend via the lift to this elegant cellar restaurant, where you walk past the kitchen before entering into a dining room with a vaulted stone ceiling and dark, moody décor. Under Grain is inspired by Merchant Street’s former tailor shops and evidence of this theme is all around, from the sewing pattern menu to the clothing displays – and even a pincushion bill-holder.

As a tailor would create something exquisite from cloth, the chef here does the same with fine ingredients, skilfully applying his talent to produce a beautiful end product. Expertly cooked Mediterranean dishes burst with bold, gloriously harmonious flavours and, while their base may be classic, the overtones are modern. Professional, personable service and a relaxed atmosphere add to the experience.

The wine list is well-chosen and contains plenty of gems from the world, especially from Italy and France.

25

CHEF PÍA LEÓN AT MAUKA

Born in December 1986 in Peru, Pia León knew at a young age that she would dedicate her whole life to cooking. From her most distant memories, she remembers making cakes and selling them at school, as well as the intense days of travelling to visit chefs and friends all over the world with the purpose of showing the different nuances of the Peruvian biodiversity in which her cooking lives.

Her career offcially began in 2008 at the world renowned Central, a restaurant that proposes a journey through the ecosystem that Pia has been studying for years. Dynamic and intuitive, supported by her strength and willingness, at the age of 21, she started working at Central and met Virgilio Martinez, with whom she would later create new concepts and projects.

Pia worked her way up from assistant to section manager and then area manager, and in the course of ten years she became head of the kitchen, gathering the necessary experience to take an important step forward. Pia felt a need for independent expression, which materialised in her restaurant, Kjolle which she opened in 2018. At Kjolle, named after an Andean tree, Pia expresses her ideas through an open, creative, pure, modern Peruvian cuisine. Only a year after its opening, Pía won the Latin American Best Female Chef Award and the following year, in 2021 the World’s Best Female Chef Award.

Kjolle won Best Signature Cuisine in 2022 at the Summum awards.

At Kjolle, the cuisine is based on four key pillars: using all parts of the product without manipulating it too much to preserve the flavours; playing with colours and contrasts; giving an unconventional use of the products that ends up surprising those who try them; and finally, creating multiple material objects such as pieces of sustainable wood, ceramics with local clays; and elements shaped with threads and natural fibres as a result of working directly with local artists and artisans from different communities in Peru.

26

Today, Pia and her partner, Chef Virgilio Marinez, co-own Central in Lima, Mil in Cusco and Maz in Tokyo. Pia was approached by Belmond in 2022 and is very excited to join the family, introducing Mauka to the world.

Named after an endangered Incan root vegetable, Mauka is an ode to the bounty of Cusquenian cuisine and its diverse produce, from the Andean mountains to the Amazon rainforest. At its core Pía’s vision is to preserve Peruvian culture, transcending local gastronomy and curating moments to learn and experience the true root and origin of Andean cuisine.

“Through my work, I aim to preserve and showcase the megadiversity of my country. I am thrilled to share my vision in Cusco at the Palacio Nazarenas. Each region has its own ingredients, with different tones and nuances, providing a clear identity and history. Mauka continues in the same vein, representing the natural meeting of Peruvian art, biodiversity, and cuisine.” says chef Pía León.

Photos: Belmond

27

CHEF PÍA LEÓN AT MAUKA

28

29

CHEF PÍA LEÓN AT MAUKA

30

MAUKA Named after an endangered Incan root vegetable, Mauka is an ode to the bounty of Cusquenian cuisine and its diverse produce.

At the core of Mauka is Pía’s vision; to preserve Peruvian culture, transcending local gastronomy and curating moments by learning and experiencing the true root and origin of Peruvian cuisine, where ingredients, art, and biodiversity meet naturally. With this new project, Pía seeks to get closer to the Cusco region and to utilise the multitude of ingredients with different tones and nuances available in this section of the Peruvian Andes. Together with local farmers and artisans, Pía and her team will continue her culinary legacy, incorporating Cusco’s history and biodiversity into the restaurant’s DNA, with menu items such as grains from the Andean Plateau, pumpkin cream, beef cheek cooked at a low temperature, Urumbamba giant corn, Pampa Yuyo, and smoked caiguas. Putting together past, present, and future, the menu is an unforgettable culinary experience using distinctive flavours from forgotten tropical and mountainous crops.

To accompany the dishes, a curated list of wines has been selected from local highaltitude vineyards. Cocktails are made with distillates developed by Mater, which aims to explore and interpret Peru’s great biodiversity. Pía and her work have several dimensions; she is a leader with a special sensitivity towards people, she is creative and practical, and she is a manager in the planning processes and in the moments of contention. For this project, Pía has the support of Mater, an interdisciplinary research centre with bases in Lima and Cusco, so that each preparation will nourish more aspects and will satisfy the curiosity of visitors interested in knowing more about Cusco and its impressive richness which show in every culinary and beverage creation.

31

SIMONE CAPONNETTO AT LOCALE FIRENZE

Florence-born chef Simone Caponnetto is Executive Chef at Locale Firenze. Although his career path is a veritable odyssey through the kitchens of some of the global gastronomic greats, his food is rooted deeply in the flavours and produce of Tuscany. His ingredients are, wherever possible, not just Italian but purely Tuscan. Many chefs born into the heritage of such a famously rich food and wine region, would be kitchen obsessed, having been taught to make pasta at their nonna’s side or helping their mother choose the finest ingredients from local markets in beautiful hill-towns under the summer sun. But for Simone, the opposite was true.

Cooking was of no interest to him. What had captured his imagination as a teenager was the work of Jack Kerouac, the American novelist, poet, and pioneer of the Beat Generation. The moment his schooling was over at the age of 18, he booked a flight and headed to America. It was in an American Italian restaurant in uptown Greenwich, (Connecticut) that Simone’s first introduction to the restaurant world began. However, it was work that was born of necessity. He wanted to travel across the U.S. - just as Kerouac had done in his famous novel “On the Road” - and the shifts he put in funded this trip and his flight back home.

Now all he wanted to do was travel, and his attention turned to Australia. Just as in the U.S., he found work in a restaurant to fund this, this time in Sydney at the award winning, 1 Hat, Arras Clarence Street. It was a significant step up the culinary ladder, and Simone worked alongside a pastry chef from Naples. As well as learning a lot about pastry, Simone also started to hear stories about other inspirational restaurants and the chefs his new Neapolitan friend had worked with, especially his stint at The Waterside Inn, which he considered the best experience of his life.

32

Simone continued to travel through Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, and India, absorbing everything around him and starting to understand the connection between heritage, culture, and food. But thoughts of The Waterside Inn lingered. When he returned to Europe, he travelled to England and started working under Alain Roux. And that, explains Simone, is where it clicked: his career began with the precision, commitment, and discipline of classic French cuisine at the three Michelin-star level.

From there, Simone dipped into the world of the private chef for a year or two, but the lure of travel had now combined with a passion for cooking at Michelin level. Japan was his first stop and a stage at Narisawa under Yoshihiro Narisawa, then back to Europe, Rome, Monte Carlo, and Bologna under Heinz Beck.

When the opportunity arose to spend time in Spain at Mugaritz under Andoni Luis Aduriz, he jumped at the chance. Here was where he learned to experiment, research, and develop, and the part that he played in the creative process. It was also where he understood the craft involved in fermentation. Simone immersed himself and became one of only a handful of stagiaires asked to remain to prepare and develop the following year’s menu. After eighteen months, Mugaritz proved to be a catalyst that changed not only his mind but also the direction of his career.

It had made him realise that he was ready to return home and open his restaurant.

Once back in Florence, Simone met Nerina Martinelli, a food buyer from a family with a farm nearby Settignano. She also wanted to open a restaurant, and she had a site already a former garage in the Sant’Ambrogio district of Florence - and a name, Nugolo - after a variety of tomato that is tricky to grow but produces delicious results. “She gave me the keys, and I built it from scratch,” Simone explains of the venture. Inspired now by the local produce of his home region and country, Simone created dishes he described as simple but honest and from the heart. It was a winning formula, and as Nugolo thrived, it attracted many local admirers and visitors alike.

Photos: Gabrielle Stabile

33

34

One of these was the director of Locale Firenze, a restaurant set within the stunning Palazzo Concini that dates back, in parts, to the 13th century. He approached Simone with the idea of expanding onto a grander stage. Simone joined in September 2021, bringing a 21st Century renaissance to the kitchen and cuisine of this historical Florentine building.

35

Located in the Concini Palace in the centre of Florence, Locale Firenze is tied architecturally, spiritually, and culinarily to its beautiful hometown.

Although the building has been extended and renovated throughout its life, much of it dates back to the 16th century and beyond: the basement, in fact, dates back to the 13th century, meaning Locale Firenze quite literally has its roots in Florentine history.

Those roots also remain vital. The restaurant’s basement is now the location for its wine cellar, along with the mixology lab that helped Locale Firenze’s inventive bar be named one of the World’s 50 Best in 2022.

The creativity and sense of place extend to the restaurant. The roots are Italian. The cooking, by Simone Caponnetto, is a reflection of the chef. Italian at heart, yes, but with a world view borne of many years of travel and working in kitchens such as The Waterside Inn in Bray, Tokyo’s Narisawa, Heinz Beck in Rome and Monte Carlo, and, particularly, Mugaritz. From there, Simone learnt more about experimentation, fermentation, and, particularly, how to use the results in creative, original, and subtle ways. These, and other techniques Simone has learnt through his career, shape the dishes at Locale Firenze. The methods may be complex, but the results are simple and from the heart.

36

While Simone brings a world of knowledge to his dishes, he suggests the sourcing of his ingredients makes his food Italian. In fact, it might be possible to take it to an even more specific definition as, wherever possible —and at increasing levels—the ingredients are Tuscan, as Simone works with an old school friend who owns a small local holding. Together they have created a garden for the restaurant’s use, with chickens, pigeons, ducks, and fruit and vegetables. Ultimately, the plan is to make Locale Firenze fully sustainable. Beyond that, Simone wants his team to split their time between the field and kitchen to understand and appreciate the ingredients they are working with fully. To that end, the team has also picked wildflowers alongside a local honey maker and fished for trout.

Simone admits he is driven by inspiration itself rather than the need for award recognition, the quest to find the joy in what he and his team do and to share that emotion, that excitement, through his regularly changing menu; to build on the sustainability targets; and, most of all, to keep Locale Firenze moving forward but to always be aware of those deep Tuscan roots.

37

T

he Terrace at Rampila is on the original gun emplacement overlooking the defensive ditch and the entrance to the City of Valletta. The position, completed in 1582, was connected with the Cavalier of St. John and was designed to be pivotal part of the defence of the city against attacks from the land.

Together with the Cavalier of St. James, facing from the opposite side of the Bridge, the fortifications commanded the approaches to Valletta.

Today St. John’s Cavalier is the seat of the Embassy of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta while the passage way to the middle wing is where the Rampila Tunnel Restaurant is situated. Alongside the Rampila Wine Bar is what remains of the linking tunnel between the two Cavaliers.

Rampila Restaurant today dedicates itself to an entirely more peaceful purpose of offering the finest of cuisine, wines and hospitality in this historic and iconic location.

DELICIOUS November 2021

35

The EU Farm to Fork Policy The COVID-19 pandemic has served as an eye opener on a number of key issues.

It surely made us acutely aware of what we consume and how we consume it, be it material things for daily use and most importantly, food. Indeed, the pandemic did bring out the chef in most of us, but in turn, also made us realise the importance of healthy eating. From viral pasta dishes to internet-famous salads, clean eating is on the radar for us all.

Clean eating also gives us a chance to purchase products that are ethical in nature.

Such organically sourced products give us an insight into the transparent supply chains. This gave a push to what is known today as ‘Farm to Fork’. This concept means that the food that we eat and its ingredients has directly been sourced from the farm where it was produced. A principle who’s roots stretch back to the 1960s and 70s when Americans became increasingly dissatisfied with processed foods that they found bland, yet which has increased in importance and relevance following the COVID-19 pandemic.

The fresh produce used in the farm to fork practice has a significantly lower carbon footprint since the produce is local, seasonal, and harvested directly from the farms, as per the demand. The produce incorporates food freshness, safety,

42

seasonality, and sustainability. Farmers established in the Farm to Fork/ Farm to Table practice are mindful of crop rotation, soil nutrition, zero waste. Produce coming from these farms is far superior to those found in superstores, which are infused with chemicals to last longer and come from miles away.

An importance which is also evident from the emphasis made by the European Union with its European Green Deal aiming to make food systems fair, healthy and environmentally-friendly.

Food systems cannot be resilient to crises such as the COVID-19 pandemic if they are not sustainable. We need to redesign our food systems which today account for nearly one-third of global GHG emissions, consume large amounts of natural resources, result in biodiversity loss and negative health impacts (due to both underand over-nutrition) and do not allow fair economic returns and livelihoods for all actors, in particular for primary producers.

Putting our food systems on a sustainable path also brings new opportunities for operators in the food value chain. New technologies and scientific discoveries, combined with increasing public awareness and demand for sustainable food, will benefit all stakeholders.

The EU wants to address many food-related issues within a single framework. The main objectives of its policy include: Reducing food fraud in the supply chain (ensuring that consumers get the products that they pay for) Cutting down on good loss and waste (to enable the EU to meet its sustainability goals) Promoting the shift to healthy, local and more sustainable foods and reducing reliance on cheap staples that damage population health (such as refined sugars, flours and oils) Improving

food security and preventing product tampering Reducing the environmental impact of food production to meet longterm climate goals In order to implement the F2F concept successfully, countries will need to innovate on multiple levels. They will need to invest in knowledge sharing, advisory services, innovation and basic research. Critically, they should work with industry partners who have the necessary expertise to bring their plans to fruition.

The EU’s F2F plan potentially benefits everyone by improving food quality, environmental sustainability and land use.

However, specific groups of people stand to benefit more than others.

Reductions in pesticide usage, for instance, may protect local farmers. Evidence suggests that over-exposure to certain types of hazardous pesticides can lead to respiratory and neurological diseases.

Companies in the supply chain also stand to benefit. The EU wants to improve food security by boosting the traceability of products as they make their way through the food chain. Consumers and agents in the supply chain will be able to directly interact with products to view their origin.

Moreover, the shift to healthy, organic meals may help to improve human health.

Growing evidence suggests that plants require stress to generate a full complement of nutrients. So organic plants exposed to regular insects and wild plants may boost human nutrition.

Lastly, the F2F strategy will support local farmers and fishers in the EU food chain who are undergoing the transition to sustainable practices. Far from being a regulatory burden, it should ultimately create additional opportunities for their small businesses.

Currently, the Common Agricultural Policy and Common Fisheries Policies provide incomes to local EU farmers to support ecosystems and their livelihoods.

Unfortunately, it is not yet clear precisely

what steps farmers will need to take to benefit from the F2F strategy.

To make F2F more concrete, the EU has put forward some targets that it hopes to meet as the plan unfolds. These include:

• • • • •

Transitioning 25 percent of all member state farms to organic by 2030 Reducing total EU sales of antibiotics for farmed animals and aquaculture by 50 percent Cutting down on the use of chemical pesticides by half by 2030 Reducing soil nutrient losses by 50 percent by 2030 while ensuring no loss of soil fertility Reducing the usage of chemical fertilisers by 20 percent by 2030

Thus, the F2F strategy aims to make food production more sustainable and reduce reliance on artificial means of increasing yields. High technology is not an explicit part of the plan, so it is not clear how updates on innovations will affect EU targets. It is likely that agriculture will require greater use of technology throughout the supply chain if it wants to meet these ambitious goals.

43

NEW CAPE TOWN RESTAURANT GALJOEN PLACES SPOTLIGHT ON SUSTAINABLE FISHING South Africa, Cape Town, 20 June 2023; As winter in the Cape tightens its grip, restaurateurs Neil Swart and Anouchka Horn of Belly of the Beast fame are giving hungry Capetonians a new reason to brave the cold, with the opening of the city’s most exciting new seafood restaurant, Galjoen.

Horn and Swart are well known as chef-patrons of their intimate inner city restaurant Belly of the Beast, and have fast grown a loyal following for their curated set menu experience. At Galjoen, set just a short walk from ‘Belly’, the pair has brought that same sense of culinary focus to Galjoen, where the spotlight falls squarely on sustainably caught South African seafood.

“People come to Cape Town and eat imported seafood, and that just makes no sense to us,” says Horn. “You should be eating the fish that’s from our own oceans, so from the beginning we decided we’re not going to cook with anything that’s imported. No prawns from Vietnam. No salmon from Norway. No calamari from Argentina.”

44

While Horn and Swart have created the concept – as at Belly, a set menu served to all tables – and guide the culinary philosophy for Galjoen, the kitchen belongs to Head Chef Isca Stoltz.

After training at the Prue Leith Culinary Institute Stoltz carved out a stellar career in some of Cape Town’s leading kitchens, before landing the role as Sous Chef at Belly of the Beast. When Horn and Swart decided to open Galjoen, they knew Stoltz was the perfect choice for Head Chef.

In creating the menu of elevated seafoodfocused cuisine, Stoltz draws heavily on memories of childhood holidays in Mozambique, with shellfish foraged on the shoreline and fish fresh from the local market. Building layers of flavour, and with no shortage of creativity and technique on each plate, each dish ensures that fresh seafood is the hero.

“With every single plate we really put the focus on the ingredients,” says Stoltz.

“Everything we do in the kitchen is to make them shine.”

Fish & tjips, but not as you know it Galjoen will offer a set menu, with the number and composition of courses changing according to the whims of the weather, and what the boats bring in, leaving Stoltz to create new plates and tweak signature dishes according to what’s fresh.

“One of the dishes that will always be on the menu is our own version of the humble fish and chips, but given our own interpretation and a bit of flair,” says Stoltz with a smile. “We cook the fish, whatever is fresh that day, over open coals with lemon butter. It’s a plate that’s meant to transport you to eating on the quayside, with all those wonderful flavours of salt and vinegar and fish and potatoes.”

To ensure a steady supply of fresh produce Galjoen has partnered with some of the Cape’s leading seafood merchants, ensuring they support both environmental and socio-economic sustainability. Farmed mussels come fresh from the waters of Saldanha Bay, while Abalobi and Greenfish merchants provide a range of fish caught largely by selfemployed artisanal fishermen.

Just don’t ask for Galjoen Perhaps ironically, the one fish you’ll never find on the menu is the namesake.

Galjoen is red-listed by SASSI, and cannot be sold commercially, but for Horn and Swart the name was a matter of pride.

“In all of our cooking we really celebrate South African produce and South African recipes, and by naming the restaurant Galjoen we wanted to both raise awareness of our national fish and spark a conversation with our guests around sustainability in seafood,” says Swart.

That conversation is carried through into the intuitive interior design created by Annelise Vorster, owner of Studio NAN, and Yolandi Vorster of YV Ateljee. Together the pair has shaped a stylish space that combines light-industrial elegance with a subtle coastal motif.

The name ‘galjoen’ derives from the Dutch word for a galleon sailing ship, and the duo drew on these two inspirations in creating the look and feel of the restaurant.

“We wanted to bring a distinct nautical feel to the space, but without being too overt,” says Annelise Vorster. “It’s relaxed, and tongue in cheek. It needed to have a bit of a twist.”

floor suggest diners might be beneath the waves, while out on the balcony a striking mural by Adele van Heerden brings the dramatic Cape shoreline to an inner-city setting.

That’s been neatly achieved here, with subtle aesthetic cues scattered throughout the space.

Pair all of that with the culinary journey created by some of the best chefs in the city, and Galjoen offers a truly immersive South African seafood experience.

Balcony balustrades may remind you of a ship’s gangway – or perhaps a fishing net – while eagle-eyed diners will notice the fish-eye mosaic that gazes up from the entranceway. Above the tables finely crafted woodwork echoes the hull of a ship, the central light fitting the rod and line that delivers each day’s catch to the chefs below, while ceramic light fittings are modeled on traditional buoys used by local fishing boats.

They’re the work of local ceramicist Amelia Jacobs, who also created the bespoke crockery for the restaurant, and fired the glazed bricks cladding the pass and banquette seating. In their shimmering shades of green and black, they’re reminiscent of a galjoen beneath the water. Don’t forget to look up, where the ‘barnacles’ beneath the mezzanine 45

Gastronomic

Brilliance American television writer and producer, Philip Rosenthal once noted,

“A good restaurant is like a vacation; it transports you, and it becomes a lot more than just about the food.”

That is pretty much why Mezzodi can fairly be defined as one of a kind gastronomic experience.

It is is one of the very few places on the island I did find myself using the terms “phwoar!” or “oh… WOW!” through a lot of the courses.

46

Mezzodi is interesting. It is innovative. It is different. It also a perfect combination of ambience, good food and quality service.

Moreover, Mezzodi follows a very logical progression, designed to take you through a trip of Chef Pablo Esposito’s personal gastronomic culinary journey and origins combined with what the local land and sea have to offer.

Situated in the heart of Valletta within the imposing building of Domus Zammitello, a restored 17th century palazzo recently converted into a beautiful boutique hotel, Mezzodi has that special feel of chic and glamour yet at the same time, also has that sense of coziness and relaxed environment which feel which makes you feel at ease the moment you step into the restaurant.

The place stresses on soft fresh colours which offer the place a distinct vibrant look. Natural stone is complemented with shades of white, green and claret with shades of blue visible in the hanging collection of Willow plates and chairs’ tapestry. Every colour is complementary and sets the perfect backdrop for an amazing ambience.

The setting is stunning and the food is clever and original while also reflecting ideas from the many storied kitchens Chef Pablo trained in. Rarely have I had a meal where the vision is so coherent between the setting and even the food.

This combination is only possible thanks to Chef Pablo’s open-mind.

A creative mind that has the ability to blend supremely elegant style with the richness of nature. A mind that has the unique ability to promote meaningful gastronomy.

47

Pablo is a self-taught chef. He is friendly, a human being with a big heart. He’s authentic, and above all, straightforward. When he feels something, he shows it. Whilst Pablo remains loyal to his Taranto family’s food traditions, he seeks to evolve it with new techniques and ingredients he constantly comes across during his regular trips around the world. It revolves around the principle; “the more you keep food simple the more it is appreciated. If you work with a good product, you will create a good dish.” In every dish, you need to make sure your own identity is visible yet at the right dose.

Too little or too much can ruin an entire dish. Chef Pablo has now set at Mezzodi his temple of taste which brings together in every dish prepared in his kitchen, two lands, with distant borders but with similar flavours, Malta and Italy.

The menu at Mezzodi is a narrative of Chef Pablo’s culinary journey starting from the starters which is indeed a Hobson’s choice. Vitello Tonnato, Fried Cuttlefish, homemade Lasagna and Asparagus, and Saute di Cozze alla Tarantina, are some of the options any diner is called to choose from. The same challenge is faced when opting for pasta. The classic. Spaghetti alla Carbonara is to die for and the Gnocchi Vongole e Brocholetti are nothing less.

And what about their Risotto agli Asparagi e Capesante? They are simply divine!

48

The selection of mains is also impressive. Veal Fillet in crushed Pistachio Crust and Chard Leaves filled with Ricotta, Lamb Rack, Rabbit in Porchetta and Stuffed Calamari are some of the specialities of the house. And for all those with sweet tooth, they should not miss out on. I highly recommend their Tiramisù but their Bonet, their Pannacotta al Basilico and their Torta Caprese are nothing less.

Indeed, Mezzodi is a gastronomic gem which ticks all the boxes of what may defined as one of the best eateries in Valletta and on the island.

Photos: Sean Mallia

49

www.mazagafruit.com

Fruit & Vegetable Market, Imports Fruit Section No. 13, Ta Qali, Attard.

Tel: +356 2143 4668 Fax: +356 2141 8025

At Ondas we specialize on Mediterranean food probably the way you never experienced before at the best price you ever paid for!

Come and try our Bistro at Pretty Bay Birzebbuga (ex Country Style)

ONDAS | BIRŻEBBUĠA | Tel: 2765 7475

54

Good For Business, Good For The Planet And Completely Free!

Net Zero Comes To Malta Join the Responsible Business Network for Free and get recognised for your Green Practices!

Going green is something we all know we need to do, but if you’re working in or running a hospitality business, then how do you do it? How can you proceed? and would you like the chance of winning €500 to become more sustainable?

The Net Zero HoReCa program will help establishments within the HoReCa sector in Malta and Gozo on the journey to net zero. This program is implemented by the Cypriot NGO AKTI and funded by the Coca-Cola Foundation. AKTI is an international organisation which works to raise environmental awareness and promoting sustainable development by applying research in practical ways.

Professional support will be provided along the way via the Responsible HoReCa Business Network within the Net Zero HORECA program, which is supported by The CocaCola Foundation. Being part of this network is entirely voluntary and there are no strict entry requirements or rules for members so, as it’s entirely free to join, there’s nothing to lose and everything to gain.

The Net Zero HoReCa will be providing guidance on how to reduce carbon emissions and a standard against which businesses can be certified against. A best practice guide and training will offer the tools necessary for a coherent and ambitious climate strategy in the hands of businesses through a practical three step approach of Calculate, Mitigate, Compensate.

Transitioning to Net Zero is not as difficult as it sounds and by signing up, you’ll get valuable help and recognition for being drivers of change! The network will offer practical support for implementing smart and simple practices with a great sustainability impact and encouragement to businesses taking steps towards a Net Zero target.

For each new practice implemented, AKTI will estimate the reduction in equal CO2 emissions over a certain length of time. It’s great news for the world and great information to share with customers.

As well as raising awareness on the importance of sustainability and inspiring change, AKTI’s NET ZERO Program is also working in synergy with partner organisations including Festivals Malta, Sports Malta, Nature Trust, Eko Skola, Zibel and GSD Marketing Ltd. to inspire all ages and interest groups to work towards a Net Zero, sustainable future.

As a further incentive HORECA members who join the Net Zero Responsible Business Network will be invited to put forward their plans for change. 20 members will be awarded €500 each, as a support for the implementation of their green project. It’s win-win for everyone.

Get in touch and join the network to help prevent climate chaos! Send an email to program@akti.org.cy or join AKTI’s social media for more information. Act now!

Source: manleysocial.com

55

Fundamentally

Good

There is something about Rebekah’s that somehow makes it fundamentally good.

The ambience, the service and above all the food make the place such a perfect location.

Perfect for many reasons yet mostly, it boils down to the ability of how Andrew and his team remain consistent in the product and service they offer. The tastes, the flavours, the detail are always there with always something that will amaze you be it a detail or a taste in a starter, a main course or a dessert.

No matter what season you happen to dine at Rebekah’s, the place guarantees a level of food and service which very few eateries offer in Malta. Yet, I feel the summer season is that time of the year that truly spells out why the place is considered by many as a true showcase of Malta’s food excellence.

56

It is a busy time at Rebekah’s when the team is preparing various delicacies to entertain their clients with. Indeed every corner of Rebekah’s kitchen is heavy packed with all sorts of ingredients ready to be used to create interesting dishes which perfectly fit this special time of the year. The smell in that part of the outlet is incredible and arouses the taste buds of every living being that passes by Rebekah’s.

This summer is no exception and Rebekah’s offers an interesting selection of dishes which exalt local produce with a French touch and at times, even a slight dose of oriental flavours. This combination can be envisaged in the detail of a starter or as the core ingredient of a main course. Indeed, the attention to detail is incredible. Every plate is pure art which encapsulates the vibrant summer colours.

Local fresh amberjack sashimi, Crapaudine beetroot and foies gras chicken liver parfait are some of the delicacies to expect for starter which are followed by an interesting selection of meats and fish.

And what about their selection of desserts?

Andrew’s magical hands create amazing sweet indulgences which are hard to resist including caramelised apple tart and white chocolate and cranberry mille-feuille. Every dish is accompanied by vast selection of local and foreign wines and an excellent service. Indeed, Rebekah’s is not only about food but also about service delivered by a very good team both in the kitchen and in the restaurant.

Rebekah’s is truly the place to be during the summer season. The food, the concepts, the product and the talent in the kitchen are make any dining experience at Rebekah’s a memorable one.

“In every dish, you need to make sure your own identity is visible yet at the right dose”.

57

Fredrik Berselius:

“You must keep moving to remain relevant” NEW YORK: Fredrik Berselius might be the renowned chef and owner of restaurant Aska in Brooklyn, New York but it was not necessarily what he aimed to do in life.

“Growing up, I wanted to be a professional snowboarder. I never imagined that I might one day become a chef as much as I loved food.” That feeling of being constantly in motion to be able to remain relevant may come from going down those snowy hillsides in the middle of nature with his friends. He considers these to be the best memories of his childhood but moving forward and improving on a daily basis is what keeps him going.

It was his sister, Michaela (now married to renowned Scottish chef and entrepreneur Tom Kitchin), who introduced him to the industry and from there it was no turning back. He would visit her in London as a teenager when she was studying hospitality and had friends who worked with legends like Alain Ducasse and Pierre Koffman. “We all spent a lot of time together when I would visit her and it opened my eyes to the industry in 58

ways I had never considered before. I would listen to stories about cooking at that level and all the pressure and excitement that came with it. It was like putting on a performance every night. I found it fascinating and it planted a seed,” Frederik says.

He moved to New York in 2000 and always dreamt of opening his restaurant but it took longer than he wanted though the experience he got at places like Aquavit and Per Se have served the purpose of surpassing hurdles faster that normal.

He opened the first Aska, Swedish for ashes, in its first rendition in 2012 and within a year had earned a Michelin star. In the summer of 2016, Aska reopened in a new, bilevel space located in a restored 1860s warehouse building in the shadows of Williamsburg Bridge. Within a few months, the restaurant received a second Michelin star. A former warehouse, the striking building is painted black and the stylish theme continues inside with polished dark wood, a cellar lounge and garden.

Ivan Brincat foodandwinegazette.com

Opening Aska was not an easy road as Frederik himself recalls.

“It definitely didn’t happen overnight and there were several times I was close to pushing the ‘go’ button, yet the circumstances ultimately weren’t right. I dreamed of this restaurant soon after I started cooking and it took a long time to make it a reality. In 2011, after the lease on a space in lower Manhattan fell through, I along with a former chef colleague of mine opened a restaurant called Frej that operated three days a week in a space we shared with a bar and café. It started with no press and only the two of us cooking and serving all the food, however within a few weeks the word started to spread and the New York Times and others wrote about us.”

“We quickly outgrew the original space so it made the decision to move a necessary one for me”.

That gave birth to Aska in the same space. The decision to close the location was taken in 2014 because Frederik knew he needed a proper space to keep evolving. “It was definitely a huge risk to move and reopen Aska in a new location, especially when we were at a peak, but I felt that we quickly outgrew the original space, so it made the decision a necessary one for me. What I hoped would be a swift process ended up being a prolonged search that ultimately led us to where we are now. I fell in love with this particular space the moment I found it, although it required a lot of imagination to get it where it is today, and we did quite a major renovation and reconstruction to the space as it had never operated as a restaurant before. The building is from the 1860s and in addition to our main dining room has a cellar, garden and private dining room. I wanted Aska to have a home that we could grow with. I wanted a space where the food, service and atmosphere work in harmony. The philosophy remains the same but this space allows us to take the experience to another level.’

59

‘I am always trying to consider the whole experience and put myself in the guests’ shoes. Hospitality is very important to me, and it’s never only about the food – at Aska it’s about creating an experience where food is the focal point, yet everything around it impacts that experience. In developing a vision for the space, I wanted to keep it simple and minimalist with little distraction, natural materials, clean lines, focused lighting and a few thoughtful accents here and there that tell part of our story. The design aspect has always been important to me – it is more than just a concept pasted to a moodboard – we consider every detail so that there is a meaning or purpose behind everything we do or anything you see at the restaurant.’

Today, Fredrik is one of the most successful Nordic chefs in the United States and around the globe, celebrating ingredients from his surrounding region as well as drawing on his Swedish background to offer something unique to the dining environment. ‘At Aska, we continually go out of our way to find exceptional ingredients to work with, most of which come from New York and the northeast. One place in particular that I love to look to for ingredients and inspiration is the pristine nature of the Catskills, where I also try to spend as much time as possible when the restaurant is closed.”

He says the natural landscape surrounding New York and especially when you drive several hours north of the city reminds him of areas you can find in Sweden, and many of the ingredients are similar. “When I am there it always makes me feel reconnected to where I grew up, and I try to bring those flavours and feelings back to the restaurant. Many people forget that there is incredible nature surrounding New York. That’s what we hope people will get a taste of that when they visit Aska – to create an environment where people can come to the restaurant, have dinner and hopefully be transported in a sense.”

60

Having won the accolades, Frederik knows he needs to keep challenging himself while setting new objectives for himself and his team. ‘Restaurants are an evolving entity, so it doesn’t end with receiving a review or releasing a cookbook. Things are always moving and it’s definitely been an adventurous journey so far.”

Stagnation is never an option. We work really hard every day and then we do it all over again the next day, learning as much as we can in the process, improving and refining as we go, because there’s no real stopping.

He says that as a chef and owner, you set goals and then set new ones and grow from there. “We want to be better than we were yesterday. I think it is important that we always continue to challenge ourselves. As a team that’s

the intention we set, because how else can you grow. Stagnation is never an option. We work really hard every day and then we do it all over again the next day, learning as much as we can in the process, improving and refining as we go, because there’s no real stopping. The transient nature of running a restaurant is part of what makes it appealing to me.

The work we do requires us to be fully present in every moment.”

His work ethic is underpinned by a desire to reach his version of perfection which ultimately boils down to making people happy. “Sometimes it feels like we’re chasing rainbows, but I think we can get there. Goals are fundamental to success.

Perfection is a subjective notion, yet the idea of it is something most of us strive toward. Many years ago, I worked at Per Se with Thomas Keller and I still hear his voice in my head about always doing

your best and staying driven, that at the end of the day, while we’re constantly striving toward this idea of perfection, it’s ultimately about making people happy.

It’s so true, and it is why we do it. It’s important to recognize that.’

Nature for Fredrik is a source off inspiration. “It is the relationship between where I have come from and where I am now, here in New York. This is central to what drives the narrative at Aska.

Cooking has always been a medium for me to feel connected to where I’m from.

At the same time, it requires you to be fully present in the moment, similar to many other forms of creativity that I find inspiring. I have always loved art and loved creating in general. My sketchbook is never far from reach, and for a period of time during my early days in New York I apprenticed with an oil painter. So art inspires me, and working with my hands in general, merging craft and creativity.

I love designing spaces and furniture as well.”

His love for nature comes from growing up in Sweden and spending times outdoors whether in winter snowboarding or spending his summers at his grandfather’s summer house. It was here that he learnt about foraging, learning about wild plants and berries.

“Now when I am cooking, I have all these memories and all these reference points from times spent in nature, of being taught what was poisonous or edible, what grew where and why and when. At the time for me, of course it was fun and magical to play around in the forest, but I didn’t fully appreciate it the way I do now being a chef and working directly with ingredients that require being so keenly aware of nature and the changing seasons.”

Bladderwrack – Blue mussel emulsion That love of nature has seen him forge a close relationship with farmers and suppliers for Aska, including an urban farm near the restaurant that they have partnered with since opening. ’We work directly with the farm to cultivate

different plants that we can harvest on a regular basis. We plan the season in advance, deciding which species we will grow and how much. Since it is a relatively small area of land, we have to plan wisely, and we often choose plants that are not always easy to find from other farms, such as Salad Burnett, Yarrow, Sorrel, and a variety of flowers.

Most we grow direct from seeds, but sometimes we have transplanted, including from the wild. Since the farm is only a two-minute walk from the restaurant, having this resource so close to us allows us a rare opportunity for a New York restaurant to have direct access to fresh ingredients that have not been transported other than by our own hands. It also provides our team the opportunity to learn about the process firsthand, observing the plants’ life cycle through the season and better understanding the effects of weather, time and other factors. In addition to the farm, we also have a small courtyard garden at our restaurant where we grow a variety of herbs that we can use in our menu.”

So what are the objectives for his future.

“I want to build on what we already have here at Aska and continue to enhance the experience. We are always searching for ways we can grow and evolve, as a team and as a restaurant as a whole.

In New York there is already a push to be at the forefront, to keep moving forward, and you must keep moving to remain relevant. Also for the longer term, I want to be more involved in building community around food and nature in part by developing a regenerative agriculture farm in upstate New York.

Building a farm, for many chefs is a dream, and it is certainly one of mine. We are slowly starting to develop some land a few hours north of New York (in the Western Catskills) where we’ve planted numerous fruit trees and experimented with a variety of other plants. Of course, there is also an abundance of delicious wild ingredients growing there that we now serve at the restaurant,” he says.

61

Central in Lima is World’s 50 Best Restaurants top restaurant for 2023 boasting nine restaurants including Maido in 6th place as well as two new entries Pía León’s Kjolle, (No.28) in Lima and El Chato (No.33) in Bogotá.

Asia follows with seven restaurants on the list, including Singapore’s Odette named The Best Restaurant in Asia (No.14) along with new entries Le Du (No.15) and Gaggan Anand (No.17) in Bangkok and Sézanne, Tokyo (No.37). Two Dubai restaurants make the list for the very first time, with Trèsind Studio (No.11) named The Best Restaurant in Middle East & Africa, ahead of Orfali Bros Bistro (No.46).

VALENCIA: Central, the flagship Lima restaurant of chefs Virgilio Martinez and Pía León was crowned the top restaurant in the World taking over from last year’s winner Geranium in Copenhagen which now goes to the Best of the Best hall of fame and makes it no longer eligible to compete for the list next year.

But that is not bad news for the Peruvian gastronomy power couple who also have a second restaurant in the top 50 position at 28. For many years, Central has hovered in the top positions of the list but never made it until this year to the top.

It placed second last year, confirming the recent practice that second-placed restaurants end up winning the award the year later. Central is an ode to Peru, with a menu that celebrates the unique biodiversity of the country’s indigenous ingredients – guided by its research arm, Mater Iniciativa – along with its traditions and history, whilst championing sustainability.

Two Spanish restaurants placed second and third respectively. These are Disfrutar in Barcelona and Diverxo in Madrid.

Topping the top five positions were Asador 62

Extebarri also from Spain and Alchemist in Copenhagen.

William Drew, Director of Content for The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, comments: “It gives me great pleasure to share the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023 and celebrate the fantastic achievement of Central as the new No.1. Virgilio Martinez, Pía León and the whole Central team have truly paved the way in celebrating indigenous ingredients through their innovative dishes and warm hospitality.

Their commitment to research, respect for their country’s heritage and promotion of Peru’s unique biodiversity is unmatched, and we’re honoured to name Central as The World’s Best Restaurant, This year’s list continues to show the breadth of culinary talent across the globe, and we look forward to seeing how it evolves even further in 2024 and beyond.”

Europe remains the power house with 27 restaurants in the top 50 positions. 6 placed in the top 10 including Lido 84 which climbed to 7th place.

This is the first time South America has a restaurant in the number 1 position.

However, it also strengthened its position

The Gin Mare Art of Hospitality Award waspresented to Copenhagen’s Alchemist (No.5). An almost mystical dining experience in a remote, industrial corner of the city, an evening here is divided into several ‘acts’ where guests of head chef Rasmus Munk and his team are led through different locations, types of art and storytelling moments, alongside exquisite food born from Munk’s obsessive search for the finest ingredients.

Pía Salazar of Nuema, Quito, was the recipient of The World’s Best Pastry Chef Award, Already crowned Latin America’s Best Pastry Chef 2022, the Cuenca-born chef is helping put Ecuador on the culinary map with her experimental creations, turning fruit and vegetables into sweet masterpieces, like coconut with umami-rich yeast and black garlic, or leek and vanilla with cedrón, a herb resembling lemon verbena.

The World’s Best Sommelier Award was presented to Miguel Ángel Millán, sommelier of Madrid’s Diverxo.

The winner of the Highest New Entry Award is Table by Bruno Verjus (No.10).

The self-taught French chef serves simple, seasonal, no-fuss cuisine at this Paris restaurant, which has developed a loyal

following among the city’s gourmands and is rapidly becoming an international dining destination.

Atomix (No.8) was awarded the Highest Climber Award and named The Best Restaurant in North America, after the New York favourite climbed 25 places from its position in last year’s ranking. The intimate 14-seat tasting menu restaurant from husband-and-wife team Junghyun ‘JP’ and Ellia Park won the Gin Mare Art of Hospitality Award as part of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2022 and its progressive and distinctive Korean food has been widely acclaimed.

Julien Royer of Odette (No.14) in Singapore won the Chefs’ Choice Award.

Voted for the world’s leading chefs, this special prize is awarded to a chef who has had a significant positive influence on the culinary community. Royer’s restaurant, Odette, in the city’s National Gallery, is also named The Best Restaurant in Asia 2023.

The Sustainable Restaurant Award was this year given to Cape Town’s Fyn(No.75), where founding chef Peter Tempelhoff’s mission is to blur boundaries by interpreting South Africa through techniques largely rooted in Japanese cooking.

The evening also celebrated those honoured with pre-announced special awards, including the Champions of Change winners Nora Fitzgerald Belahcen, founder of Moroccan social enterprise Amal, and Othón Nolasco and Damián Diaz, the duo behind food-security project No Us Without You LA. Elena Reygadas, winner of The World’s Best Female Chef Award, Andoni Luis Aduriz of Mugaritz, winner of the Icon Award, and New York restaurant Tatiana by Kwame Onwuachi, winner of the Resy One To Watch Award, were presented with their trophies on stage.

The World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards 2023, was held at Valencia’s Les Arts Opera House.

Best of the Best Those in the elite group of No.1 ranked restaurants (listed below) have more than proved their worth and will now be forever honoured as iconic dining destinations in the Best of the Best hall of fame. The chefs and restaurateurs who have led their restaurants to the pinnacle of the list have expressed their desire to invest in the future of the sector and ‘give back’ to the food world through new projects and initiatives. The following restaurants have been named No.1 in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants since the list’s inception and were therefore not eligible for voting in 2023 and beyond:

• • • • • • • • • •

El Bulli (2002, 2006-2009) The French Laundry (2003-2004) The Fat Duck (2005) Noma – original location (2010-2012, 2014) El Celler de Can Roca (2013, 2015) Osteria Francescana (2016, 2018) Eleven Madison Park (2017) Mirazur (2019) Noma – current location (2021) Geranium (2022)

The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023: POSITION

RESTAURANT

LOCATION

1

Central

Lima

2

Disfrutar

Barcelona

3

Diverxo

Madrid

4

Asador Etxebarri

Atxondo

5

Alchemist

Copenhagen

6

Maido

Lima

7

Lido 84

Gardone Riviera

8

Atomix

New York

9

Quintonil

Mexico City

10

Table by Bruno Verjus Paris

11

Trèsind Studio

Dubai

12

A Casa do Porco

São Paulo

13

Pujol

Mexico City

14

Odette

Singapore

15

Le Du

Bangkok

16

Reale

Castel di Sangro

17

Gaggan Anand

Bangkok

18

Steirereck

Vienna

19

Don Julio B

uenos Aires

20

Quique Dacosta

Denia

21

Den

Tokyo

22

Elkano

Getaria

23

Kol

London

24

Septime

Paris

25

Belcanto

Lisbon

26

Schloss Schauenstein Fürstenau

27

Florilège

Tokyo

28

Kjolle

Lima

29

Boragó

Santiago

30

Frantzén

Stockholm

31

Mugaritz

San Sebastian

32

Hiša Franko

Kobarid

33

El Chato

Bogotá

34

Uliassi

Senigallia

35

Ikoyi

London

36

Plénitude

Paris

37

Sézanne

Tokyo

38

The Clove Club

London

39

The Jane

Antwerp

40

Restaurant Tim Raue

Berlin

41

Le Calandre

Rubano

42

Piazza Duomo

Alba

43

Leo

Bogotá

44

Le Bernardin

New York

45

Nobelhart & Schmutzig Berlin

46

Orfali Bros Bistro

Dubai

47

Mayta

Lima

48

La Grenouillère

La Madeleine-sous-Montreuil

49

Rosetta

Mexico City

50

The Chairman

Hong Kong

63

Tartarun

Heston Blumenthal once noted;

“To me, food is as much about the moment, the occasion, the location and the company as it is about the taste.”

64

There is one place on this island where I feel all these elements come together. At Tartarun, every occasion irrespective of whether it’s my daughters’ birthday, a Sunday lunch or a business dinner, I am never disappointed in the combination of good food, good service and great ambience it offers.

And it does so in a simple way focussing on fish. Good fish.

Cooked and presented by James and his brigade in the kitchen in a way that highlights the exceptional taste of a grouper, of a red snapper, of a prawn or an oyster. A genuine taste complemented by that additional kick of “buffalo sauce”, of Tom Yum, of miso sauce, of chilled ginger dashi, of green “yuzu kosho” or nori butter. No added flavour is too little or too much.

Every flavour fits perfectly well with the main ingredient - fish.

Every flavour is there for a purpose - to exalt the beauty of what our seas have to offer. No wonder why many food critics consider Tartarun as one of the best, if not the best fish restaurant on the island.

And what keeps on amazing me, every time I dine there is the ability of the Schiavone’s to offer consistency in their food and service. A service so attentive to detail. A service offered always with a smile. A signature smile you will always come across by both Stephen, his mother and the rest of the team. A smile which impressively never fades away no matter how busy the place is. A smile which remains consistent during weekdays and weekends.

Above all, a smile that quickly makes you feel at home. That quickly makes you feel at ease.

A smile that quickly makes you realize why this place is always busy with local and foreign customers.

Tartarun is a true culinary gem which keeps on amazing me how a good carpaccio, a good selection of fish snacks, or a fish of the day makes such a difference in my mood. A little gem which I feel merits more credit and acknowledgement for what it has to offer, for what it delivers without overdoing it.

65

C’est une question de goût

Interview with LETIZIA VELLA

66

Photos: Albert Camilleri

Heston Blumenthal once noted; You think about some of the most memorable meals you’ve ever had; the food will be good but it will often be about locating a mental memory and taste is inexorably linked to all the other senses and memory, so ultimately it is all about taste.

And that is precisely what Chef Letizia Vella constantly focuses on to create her amazing dishes. Something you will quickly notice whilst dining at Golden fork. An emphasis on taste complemented by precision, detail and colours which together give Letizia the possibility to create pure works of art. Delicious recently caught up with Letizia to discuss her style, her connection with Heston Blumenthal and what makes The golden Fork one of the best eateries on the island.

How would you describe your style?

The idea is to express the maltese traditional essence, but in a very contemporary and refined way. I use complex transformation techniques to create apparently simple dishes, that are immediately recognisable but new at the same time. I want people to have an authentic maltese experience, but the taste is enhanced by the innovative approach.

In what way has Heston Blumenthal been a source of inspiration in your culinary journey?

My different experiences working under Chef Blumental fuelled my imagination and introduced me to a culinary journey like no other. It created a spark, enhanced my love for culinary techniques and gave me a platform to grow my ideas.

Why do you feel that being a Chef is “a labour of love”?

I believe this passion for cooking stands on five pillars: Passion, Dedication, Creativity, Perfectionism and Pleasing Others. Overall, being a chef involves immense dedication, passion, creativity, and the desire to please others. It is the combination of these factors that makes it a labor of love, as chefs pour their hearts and souls into their culinary creations, aiming to bring joy and satisfaction to those who indulge in their dishes.

James Beard once noted; “Food is our common ground, a universal experience.” To what extent do you agree?

Food is most definitely a universal “common ground” as the great James Beard observed. Not only is it a basic need of life but it is something that is invented and reinvented and shared throughout history and throughout the world.

Albeit this, food also differentiates us through the different ingredients and techniques used in all corners of the world.

67

Malta’s First National Action Plan for

Organic Food Driving a sustainable shift in supply and demand

Find out more and let us know how you can get involved in transforming the organic food chain.

MINISTRY FOR AGRICULTURE, FISHERIES AND ANIMAL RIGHTS PARLIAMENTARY SECRETARIAT FOR FISHERIES, AQUACULTURE AND ANIMAL RIGHTS

Follow us on Facebook Ambassador for Organic & Sustainable Food  ambassador.food@gov.mt  22924927

In what way do you feel that each and every day is show time?

Just like actors on a stage, chefs perform in the kitchen.

Each day brings new challenges, from preparing multiple dishes simultaneously to managing a busy service. Chefs must maintain composure, exhibit skillful techniques, and work efficiently under pressure, all while delivering exceptional results.

Like stage performers who pay attention to every movement and gesture, chefs meticulously focus on details. From plating dishes beautifully to ensuring precise cooking times and seasoning, they strive for perfection in every aspect of their culinary creations.

Us Chefs often have the opportunity to interact with guests, much like performers engaging with their audience.

We may step out of the kitchen to explain their creations, receive feedback, and provide a personal touch to the dining experience. This direct interaction adds an element of showmanship to our role.

Finally, we are constantly pushing boundaries, experimenting with new flavors, and inventing innovative dishes. This constant quest for culinary excellence parallels the creative process of artists. We aim to surprise and captivate diners, just as performers seek to captivate their audience.

What are your thoughts about fine dining in Malta?

Malta’s fine dining scene showcases a fusion of traditional Maltese flavors with international influences. Chefs skillfully blend local ingredients, such as fresh seafood, olive oil, honey, and native herbs, with global culinary techniques to create innovative and memorable dishes.

Malta benefits from an abundance of fresh and high-quality ingredients. Fine dining establishments take advantage of this by incorporating local produce, seasonal fruits and vegetables, and the catch of the day into their menus. This ensures a focus on freshness, flavor, and sustainability.

Overall, fine dining in Malta presents a delightful blend of tradition, innovation, and Mediterranean influences. It offers a chance to indulge in refined flavors, impeccable service, and a captivating dining atmosphere that reflects the unique charm of the Maltese islands.

What’s next for you?

My main aim is to keep upskilling and improving, whilst reaching new milestones. I plan to keep on experimenting with Maltese and Mediterranean dishes and introduce these creations to my everevolving menu at The Golden Fork. I also plan to travel and undergo stages in different restaurants to futher broaden my skillset and be exposed to different cuisines.

69

54, Strait Street, Valletta, Malta

palazzoprecavalletta.com 2122 6777

Discover the finest in Maltese and Mediterranean cuisine at Palazzo Preca.

From mouthwatering cuts to homemade desserts, our menu is a culinary delight.

Join us for lunch, special events, or simply indulge for a break.

Experience Palazzo Preca’s exceptional flavors.

Scan for Bookings & Opening Hours

A Culinary Experience

lovagebistro.com

72

Hidden among the noisy outlets, high-rise buildings and busy streets of Qawra lies a bistro concept which is attracting the interest of food enthusiasts from all across the island.

Lovage Bistro is managed by one of Malta’s leading young generation of chefs, Matthew Schembri.

The à la carte menu is interesting and a true celebration of the land and the sea have to offer. It is fresh, innovative and straight forward. indeed, every dish available in the Lovage menu is cooked and presented in a simple manner so as to give due merit to the natural flavours of genuine local fresh produce.

Moreover, it is very condensed with a selection of five starters that include champagne battered prawns, burrata salad, slow cooked pork bao buns, rabbit liver and carpaccio. The menu includes an interesting selection of pasta and risotto dishes.

Pasta has always been a staple dish at Lovage and still remains with a good selection that includes; gnocchi di patata tossed in rucola and parmesan pesto topped with crushed almonds and also Carnaroli di San Maiolo risotto with black truffle cream.

And what about the main course selection?

The menu also consists of six main courses which include a Moroccan inspired duck breast, stuffed quail, and grilled lamb fillet served on cous cous infused with mint and cumin.

For all those with a sweet tooth, the menu includes a good selection of desserts which include the traditional Maltese date fritters, crème brûlé and strawberry crumble.

Lovage is indeed a culinary experience which reaches its epitome during the summer season.

The choice of food prepared is simply amazing and worth to enjoy with your loved ones.

Booking is certainly a must so as to avoid any unnecessary disappointments.

73

BEST

DOING WHAT WE DO

The past months were an opportunity for Joshua Borg and Kerstin Manicolo to put their heads together and rethink the concept of Surf n Turf. In the process, they asked a fundamental question; “what do we really stand for?” The answer was not that hard to understand. Truly so, because the place has for many years been coined as a gastronomic experience of food and meat. Above all, Surf n Turf is the place where Joshua and Kerstin do what they do best deliver good food complemented by a very good service.

It is true to say that every good restaurant must focus on detail. It is also true to say that every good eatery should focus on a bit (or a lot) of wow factor. Yet most of all, the emphasis should be on the taste, the genuine product, the good service and the overall experience. And that is what Surf n Turf today is all about.

74

The à la carte menu is interesting and a true celebration of the land and the sea have to offer.

The selection looks intimidatingly large but boils down to your choice of seafoods or meat.To start off with, one can choose from a vast selection of antipasti and crudi that includes; oysters, king prawns, langoustines, fish carpaccio and also prawn carpaccio. The starters are nothing less with an interesting selection that includes; scallops, octpus and also lobster popcorn. Yet the starter selection also includes foie gras, beef carpaccio and also rabbit brushetta.

Pasta has always been a staple dish at Surf n Turf and still remains. Linguine local prawns, ravioli lobster and crab,gnocchi truffle creamy sauce, pappardelle local rabbit and aged acquerello risotto are some of the delicacies you are called to choose from.

And what about the main course selection? Both the choice of surf and turf is simple yet at the same time, impressive.

Sea Bass Al Sale, Local King Prawns an fresh loster are complemented by a selection of beef cuts.

The same balance of craft and comfort, of luxury and prudence, is borne out in the desserts. Not fussy piles. No powdered meadowsweet or freeze-dried woodruff, but proper desserts only a place like Surf n Turf would be expected to do.

You definitely can’t call Surf n Turf’s cooking “haute”, it’s far too generous and enjoyable for that. Yet on the other hand, the detail, the flavours, the aesthetic and also the service are key elements that make the place one of the on the island. It goes without saying that booking is certainly a must so as to avoid any unnecessary disappointments.

75

THE ART OF

FORAGING Interview with KEITH ‘CHYNA’ ABELA

Over the last decade, interest in foraging has grown exponentially as people seek new, nutritious, and flavourful ingredients, as sustainability advocates explore ways of breaking their dependence on industrial agriculture, and as Indigenous communities and other groups work to revive traditional practices. A growth in interest that has also been noted in Malta thanks to people like Keith Abela better known as Chyna.

Delicious recently caught up with Keith to discuss foraging and its recent growth in popularity.

76

How did you first get into foraging?

I started foraging when I was young with my father. During the season we would go for relatively common things, capers, olives and fennel mostly. But then I spent some time working in Jersey, and there we used to forage various ingredients and I thought to myself if an island the size of Gozo has so many ingredients who knows what malta has to offer. Needless to say once I started studying I found an amazing abundance of local ingredients and I’ve been hooked ever since.

Is foraging a way to connect to the long human history of living off the land?

Yes definitely. Every time I take someone foraging the look on their faces when they find a new product be it fruit, veg, herbs or fungus. I do believe we have a part of our brain that still gives us joy when we reconnect to our primitive urges.

Is foraging inherently sustainable?

If you know what you’re doing, if you understand every ingredient to the smallest detail then yes.

But that means everything, you have to ask yourself, does it grow from the roots or does it need seeds ? how many leaves can one take ? when can I pick this ? is it abundant this year ?. if you know all the answers to these questions then yes, but many a time I find people who are eager to learn or beginner “foragers” to be the most destructive thing to nature. I have in fact started cultivating and collecting seeds of local wild edibles, just to help nature a little, I even go out to water wild trees in summer. To be sustainable one must put back what one reaps, to work with and not against nature and our ancestors did.

How did foraging become part of the farm-to-table movement?

It actually predates this farm-to-table movement if you think about it. Look at all the high class mushrooms; truffles, morels, porcini, chanterelles, they’ve all been served in restaurants, taverns and even the tables of nobility for centuries now. With all the technological advances, all the scientific knowledge we have nowadays we still can’t successfully cultivate most fungi, plants or even animals for that matter. So I think it was just natural progression that made chefs look to the wild for rare and delicious things that all add variety to the menu.

77

THE ART OF

FORAGING

Can you talk about the urban foraging scene tin Malta?

Its fantastic to be honest, not that I personally do it myself, but being a forager I always look down. The abundance we have growing out of pavements, in vacant lots and public parks is truly amazing. Take wild cabbage as an example, the amounts that grow out of the pavements its crazy, I find more wild cabbage and caper bushes growing out of pavements, walls and even windowsills then I do in nature.

How can we educate people so that they understand how to forage wisely?

Study, study, study. Get to know everything about the plant, if it grows yearly from the same root system don’t eat the roots. If its leafy greens just pick a few leaves and move to the next. If its fruit leave some on the tree for other animals to eat, we have supermarkets they don’t. In short I have one rule for whatever you’re picking, take a step back through your harvest, take a look at the area, if it looks like you’ve harvested anything then you’ve done it wrong. I only pick around 20% of what’s possible, I never uproot anything (unless its invasive) and if I see seeds I help to spread them around.

Any last words of advice, before we all begin our foraging adventures?

We have a saying the foraging community “everything is edible, most things only once”. So unless you are 1000% positive of what you’re picking don’t pick it. There are hundreds of plants and fungi ready to hurt or kill you so be very very careful and don’t forage just because you think its cool.

78

Marie Boutique Patisserie is dedicated to that woman who works hard with passion, respect and love for her family.

Our inspiration comes from this hardworking, humble and loving woman who is there for those around her.

At our Patisserie we believe that hard work, respect and love towards what we do is what makes us stand out. We are a small, young, energetic, enthusiastic team who strive to give our clients a pleasant experience through our food and desserts.

At Marie Boutique Patisserie everything is made from scratch in our onsite kitchen whether it’s savoury or sweet, using original techniques keeping both tradition and modern in mind. We are committed to use local, seasonal produce to make the best out of each ingredient and the season itself.

mariemalta.com.mt

BBQ

TIPS FOR

FRESH SWORDFISH Preparing the Grill Preheat the grill until it is very hot. If you are using a charcoal bbq, make sure that the charcoal turns greyish white in colour or the swordfish would overcook and becomes dry.

Seasoning Swordfish Rub the swordfish steaks lightly with olive oil and season with salt and pepper and any other seasoning you choose. You may also add some lemon juice to the oil or use other types of flavours like minced shallots, capers, olives, chili peppers, fresh herbs such as mint and parsley —or something a little sweeter such as pineapple juice.

Time to Grill Brush the grill with vegetable oil to prevent the swordfish from sticking and place the steak on the grill. Don’t walk away for too long with this fish, it has a short cooking time—only about 6 to 10 minutes depending on the thickness of the steak.

Swordfish steaks should be around 3cm thick since this is the perfect thickness for the grill.

After about 5 minutes turn once the swordfish and let it finish cooking on the other side. Always use tongs when turning your swordfish. Don’t poke at it with a fork since this can dry out the meat and may tear the flesh enough to really mess up your presentation. Cook the swordfish until the meat is opaque, you don’t want to see any clear flesh at all. You can gently pull a piece of the swordfish away with a fork to see.

Serve it alongside fresh vegetables, salad or rice or ideally a red caper tomato salsa.

The thick and meaty nature of swordfish also lends itself well to being cut into cubes and used as the focal point of grilled kebabs.

80

Before your fish hits the grill,

BATHE IT IN FLAVOUR! Grilled Fish Marinades and Rubs recipes BBQ Marinade Recipe

Thai Rub Marinade

1,200gr tomato ketchup 430ml sweet chili sauce 60ml soy sauce 200gr chopped fresh parsley 40gr chilli

80gr chilli (minced) 80gr ginger (minced) 40gr garlic (minced) 100gr onion (minced) 50gr leeks (minced) 30gr parsley (minced) 10gr coriander (minced) 20gr lemongrass (minced) 15gr curry 10gr salt

Mustard Coriander Rub Recipe 1 small jar Dijon Mustard 120gr leeks finely chopped 400ml vegetable oil 250gr chopped fresh parsley 60gr chopped fresh coriander 15gr salt 100gr chopped fresh celery

Ginger, Honey & Mint Marinade 70gr fresh ginger (peeled and minced) 75gr honey 250gr chopped fresh mint leaves 70ml extra virgin olive oil 500gr chopped fresh parsley 100gr leeks (minced) 81

PRAWN

PERCH PAD THAI

Ingredients 250g Rice Noodles (banh pho) 2 tbsp Fish Sauce 2 tbsp Oyster Sauce 2 tbsp fresh Lime Juice, plus Lime Wedges for serving 2 tbsp Sugar 1 tbsp Sriracha 2 tbsp Vegetable Oil 300g Prawns 500g Perch, cut into 1” pieces 2 Small Onions, thinly sliced 2 Garlic Cloves 2 Thinly Sliced Carrots 4 Spring Onions, cut into 1-inch pieces 2 Large Eggs, lightly beaten small handful of Coriander Leaves, plus more for garnish 100g Roasted Peanuts

Preparation •

•

• •

•

• •

82

Put the noodles in a large bowl and cover with very hot water. Let soak for about 15 minutes (or according to package directions). Drain the noodles in a colander, shaking off excess water.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the fish sauce with the oyster sauce, lime juice, sugar, and Sriracha.

In a large nonstick wok, heat 1 tablespoon oil until shimmering.

Add the prawns and perch, cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until browned and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the seafood to a plate.

Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil. Add the shallots, garlic and carrots and cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the noodles and and stir-fry until heated through, about 2 minutes.

Put the the noodles to one side of the pan and add the eggs. Cook, stirring occasionally for two minutes.

Toss everything together. Add the sauce and half the coriander and stir-fry until the noodles are evenly coated and the sauce has thickened slightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the seafood and cook until just heated through. Transfer the pad Thai to a platter. Garnish with more cilantro and serve with lime wedges.

LINGUINE

VONGOLE & MUSSELS

Ingredients 1kg Mix of Vongole and Mussels (soak in water for 30 minutes to remove any sand or grit) 8 Pieces Anchovy Fillets 6 Cloves Garlic sliced 1 Glass of White Wine 100ml Olive Oil 500g Packet of Linguine 1 tsp Peperoncino 1 Bunch Chopped Parsley Salt and Pepper to taste

Preparation •

•

• • •

•

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook pasta until al dente (less than the time indicated in the package).

In a large pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat and add the garlic, anchovies and peperoncino.

Cook for 2 minutes being careful not to let the garlic get brown.

Add the wine and shellfish, cover the pan and lower the heat to medium-low.

Cook for 4 to 5 minutes until the clam and mussel shells open up. Discard those that don’t open. Season with salt and pepper, to taste, then add the cooked pasta.

Toss until the pasta is evenly coated with the sauce. Arrange on individual plates, garnish with chopped parsley and add more olive oil if you like.

83

ONE AIM TO MAKE

GOZO PROUD

8-14 JULY 2023 ATHLETES

St. Christopher Str. Valletta one80 Takes the City!

Creative, fresh, always flavourful.

Savour the flavours of our ever-changing menu.

Open for lunch and dinner daily in the heart of Valletta.

A TR ADITION R O OT ED I N E XC EL L EN C E WWW.ELIA.COM.MT

W: one80.com.mt E: valletta@one80.com.mt T: +356 27800040

68, VILLAMBROSA STREET, HAMRUN HMR1129 T: 2124 6920 / 2122 7085 E: INFO@ELIA.COM. MT

Here comes the summer sun issue 27

issue 27

Here comes the summer sun