Atelier 14

Volume 14

An Autumn Breeze

Volume 14

Autumn: The season of cozy, delicious, wisdom-inducing rediscovery Autumn is the season for all senses. The feel of cooler temperatures after a long summer. A warm, visually pleasing palate of reds, oranges and browns. The taste of pumpkin spice in everything. The sound of crunching leaves underfoot. The smell of woodsmoke.

The many elements of autumn either intrinsically deliver happiness or trigger memories of past joy from which we can keep taking bites, as from a freshly baked apple pie.

Publishing Editor Omar Vella

Autumn is also a time for reflection assessing the year that is coming to end. It is a time to think about our challenges, our achievements, our losses, our plans, our dreams. It is a time when we look beyond our microcosm and observe the impact of current international issues on our everyday life, on society and on the global village we live in. And in the context we need to decide our next decisions, our next actions our next projects.

Design

Robert Caruana rcaruana@unionprint.com.mt

Printing & Publishing Union Print Co. Ltd. www.unionprint.com.mt

Proof Reading

Ramona Vella Cini

FRONT PHOTO

Dress: Charles & Ron Disclaimer: Particular attention has been given to ensure that all the content of this magazine is correct and up to date as on date of issue. The views expressed in the articles, interviews and photogrphs are those of the authors and are not neccessarily endorsed by the publisher. While every care has been taking during production, the publisher does not accept any liability for errors that may have occurred. Copyright© 2022.

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It was love at first sight ...

Every thought, every concept, every idea came together, the moment Lucentini came across the amazing Charles & Ron CYNOSURE Collection.

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Cynosure, a perfect term to coin the Fall 2022/23 Charles & Ron collection. The design, the colours, the style and the theme of the collection make the Cynosure, distinct, beautiful, amazing and truly one of a kind.

They also make Cynosure the source of inspiration for a collaboration between Lucentini and Charles & Ron. An inspiriton which gave birth to COLLABORATION, a limited collection of six ceramic handmade tiles which were launched at St. George’s Square, Valletta.

Lucentini tiles on one hand inspired by a detail, a concept, an artefact. Yet Lucentini’s talented artists are also inspired by the country’s cultural heritage, the island’s history and also contemporary Malta.

On the other Charles & Ron, a contemporary lifestyle brand, high-end clothing, and bags with a distinct Mediterranean flair and a dedication to superior quality.

On the 20th September, after so many months of preparation, it was celebrated the marriage between two of Malta’s most regarded companies Lucentini and Charles & Ron. 5

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“It’s a love affair”

Charles & Ron is a contemporary lifestyle brand; Maltese culture is an integral part of the Charles & Ron design ethic. Our brand’s vision is to inspire our customer to be part of the “love affair” and our instantly recognisable Mediterranean style.

Charles van Maarschalkerweerd Borg was born October 29, 1968, in Malta, and Ron van Maarschalkerweerd Borg was born September 13, 1971, in Holland. Charles learned his tailoring skills as a young boy from his relatives who were expert dressmakers and Ron studied Economy and Human Resource management. Charles and Ron met in Amsterdam in 1992 and Ron moved to Malta shortly afterwards.

The designers are mostly self–taught and are Malta’s leading fashion house.

Besides their flagship store in Malta’s capital city Valletta they have 2 more stores in Malta and opened their first Cafe in 2021.

Since 2014 the designers have consistently shown their collections during New York and Los Angeles Fashion Week, and the designers are regular guests at Fashion weeks throughout Europe.

Charles & Ron were one of the few designers that were selected in 2018 to exhibit one of their couture designs at Buckingham Palace for the Commonwealth Fashion Exchange.

The exhibition curated by Vogue’s Hamish Bowles also featured Stella McCartney, Burberry and Karen Walker among others. The night was a first at the Palace and guest included: Naomi Campell and Anna Wintour who complimented the designers on their design.

Besides the runway and ready-to-wear collections, key items in the C&R range are Malta inspired by luxury scarves and leather bags. The handbags and small leather goods are made with the finest Italian leather and are handcrafted in Malta.

The Charles & Ron collections are regularly featured on international publications and are also noticed by international colour company Pantone.

The designers were featured in two recent Pantone Colour Trend Forecasts and leading trend websites like Refinery29 also featured some of the C&R designs and quoted the designers on their use of colour.

Charles & Ron’s Malta inspired designs truly have an international appeal as they have recently been seen on international celebrities like: Ariana Grande, Avril Lavigne, Chloe Bailey, Torri Spelling, Rauw Allejandro, Nika King, Nicole Ari Parker, Carrie Underwood, Paula Abdul, Jessie J., Kelly Rowland, Brandy, Lauryn Hill, Poppy, Ally Brooke ( Fifth Harmony) Nicole Williams (Wags) Michelle Williams (Destiny’s Child) , Ashanti, and Brigitte Nielsen among many others.

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After a two-year absence, Charles & Ron are honoured to announce the debut of the Fall/Winter 2022/23 collection, titled ‘Cynosure’, on the runway at Los Angeles Fashion Week, powered by Art Hearts Fashion on the 20th March 2022.

This time round however, one needn’t be in the audience to experience the grander and splendour of the collection. Thanks

beaded elements, feathers, and gold paint effects on velvet and tulle are also used to further enhance the feeling of

to the brand’s recent collaboration with ARize Group, fashion enthusiasts can immerse themselves in the showcase through their device – having the ability to discover a selection of the ornate pieces in all their glory in AR/3D format.

opulence and lavish decor. A focus is made to the sculptured tactile tailoring, with the garments’ shapes mimicking the decorative aesthetic of interior design, making the dress and the wearer “the cynosure of all eyes” – the centre of admiration in the room.

Drawing inspiration from the 16th-century palace ‘Casa Rocca Piccola’ situated in Malta’s capital Valletta, the collection highlights the beauty of the eclectic collection of decorative items housed within these walls, whilst seeking to explore the synergy between interior and fashion design. The aesthetic riches of Malta and the traditions of Maltese nobility, with specific focus on the aristocratic De Piro bloodline, is brought to life though the digital manipulation of prints featuring crystal glassware, gilded baroque frames, antique furniture, porcelain pottery, cross stitch fabrics, gold and silverware.

The rich opulent prints make their way onto the less rigid surfaces of Silk, Organza, Mikado and Velvet, with Baroque inspired patterns being used for prints on tulle, and as a bleached out effect on washed denim pieces. Hand-

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‘CYNOSURE’

Gold, Slate, Silver and Steel Grey, Bottle and Olive Green, Ivory, Red, Lilac, Plum, Flamingo and Denim Blue and Black hues make up the palette of this collection, paired with a selection of new bag designs which are hand-made in Malta in 100% real Italian leather, featuring graphic prints, laser engraving techniques and 3D leather cutout details.

To truly encapsulate what it means to “do the extraordinary when you are least expected”, this collection is dedicated to our team of seamstresses in Malta and Ukraine and Head of Design – Marian Gofre – who despite going through personal turbulence, managed to create a collection that is simply – cynosure. In a time when fashion feels frivolous and extra, we also dedicate this collection to the courage of the people of Ukraine.

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A detail, a concept, an artefact are the source of inspiration of any Lucentini tile.

Yet talented artists are also inspired by the country’s cultural heritage, the island’s history and also contemporary Malta. Every piece of Malta is spelt out in the beautiful tiles that adorn the walls of many local and foreign homes.

Lucentini handmade tiles are the new trend in the local interior design industry.

They are bold, colourful, artistic, distinct and truly bring to life any empty space in a house or any other living space. Indeed, their stylish and elegant kick make them the logical choice for any wall project.

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Some people have an inherent skill to stand out of the crowd wherever they are and whatever they do.

Some people have that charisma to leave an impact on any person they come across without pushing themselves too much.

The moment you meet Rebecca, you quickly understand that she perfectly fits within this category of people.

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through her eyes

She is elegant, good looking with a face that is almost supernaturally photogenic and with a genuine smile which quickly captivates you and puts you at ease during any conversation you will have with her. Those deep blue eyes spell out her boisterous personality and effusive sense of self-confidence. They also reflect her passion for anything that involves her own microcosm to a much wider spectrum thus involving a wide range of topics including culture, politics, society and even gender equality.

Do not be deceived by her sweet and angelic face. Beyond that crust lies a a very determined person, with a short temper for anyone that beats around the bush or anything she may consider as bluff, unjust, superficial or frivolous. Sharp, blunt, very direct in her words and with a particular eye for detail.

Detail which she can note in a leaf, in a face, in a door knob, in an article or in painting. Yes, because Rebecca leaves nothing to chance. Every detail matters. Every detail can change her mood and her point of view. Every detail makes a difference in the way she reacts, the way she behaves, the way she looks at today and most of all tomorrow. A bit of a dreamer yet quite a realist knowing that there is no free lunch, knowing that every decision taken offers opportunities as much as challenges, knowing that life is a journey that must be traveled no matter how bad the roads and accommodations.

Indeed, Rebecca is that type of woman who everyday wakes up with that steadfast dedication and commitment to her role as a mother, a wife and above all a woman with a clear vision in mind. Everyday she wakes with that will do juggle each role in the best possible manner. Everyday she wakes up with that determination to strive to be better in every hat she wears. Despite the dizzying whir of work and life, she has a clear mindset and determined to achieve all those tasks on her busy agenda. Multitasking is part of her everyday life. Rebecca believes in John Whedon’s theory; “The secret to multitasking is that it isn’t actually multitasking. It’s just extreme focus and organization.” Rebecca admits that juggling many roles it is a daunting task. “It necessitates flexibility, logic, practicality and a good time management. It also calls for choices. It is not an easy task yet with a focussed mind it is not impossible to achieve.” I also ask Rebecca what brings a smile to her face to which she promptly notes that she a very simple person. “I love cooking, I love interiors, I also love working on chores at home.

When I am in my own world, I am happy and will certainly have a smile on my face.”

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She inherited her passion for photography from her father. A passion which she in her limited free time, she seeks as a way to capture detail, colours, moments. On the other hand, she inherited the gifts of drive, logic and perseverance from her mother. Her parents are her mentor, her guide and her source of inspiration. “My parents are my superheroes. They made me believe in the fundamental principle that Perspective is everything when you are experiencing the challenges of life.”

She adds that every woman can be Joan of Arc in some way or another and every woman can be somehow an inspiration to another.

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“My parents are my superheroes.

They made me believe in the fundamental principle that Perspective is everything when you are experiencing the challenges of life.”

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Being quite outspoken, she does not shy away from sharing her opinion on societal matters, where she points out that we often tend to adopt the ostrich approach when addressing key issues; ”We are better than our parents and our children should be better than us. There are issues we prefer to seep under the carpet just for the sake to avoid addressing. That mentality is wrong and simply postpones or worse, magnifies issues. Key issues should be tackled from their roots so as to ensure a better society.” Above all, Rebecca firmly believes that we need to ensure our society does not lose its soul. She feels that empathy must remain at the core so as to avoid developing into a soulless society. She adds that to create a better society we need to start from our own microcosm - home. “People, families, society should focus a a better work-life balance. We are too much focussed on our daily chores, on our work and on the digital world we live in thus giving minimal importance to the simple things that surround us such as a chat during a meal or a ‘how are you?’ you our loved ones. Time flies and we risk regretting those moments.”

And in the process of preserving a good society, Rebecca believes that culture has a key role to play. “Culture is a reflection of a community or nation. This makes culture a vital and important determining factor of how the community reacts, responds, and grows. Culture plays a major role in the lives of everyone in the society. Culture gives you a sense of belonging, especially when everyone speaks the same language. Language evolves with the culture as an intimate product of the way those within the society communicate.” She adds that in the right kind of culture, people feel nurtured and even loved. They share the same history and ideologies as those within their community, and this gives everything unity. It ties them to their ancestry and provides a sensation of longevity which gives them a feeling of truth and living an authentic life.

There is more to share with Rebecca yet time limits our conversation. Nevertheless, her thoughts, her views, her points of view she shared give us a clear picture of who she is. This is Rebecca, an inspirational woman in the journey of life which has led her to a few disappointments yet also many achievements.

Rebecca, a woman who continues to strive to reach new heights.

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Photo Feature Bernard Polidano

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Photo Feature Bernard Polidano

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Photo Feature Bernard Polidano

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Photo Feature Bernard Polidano

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Photo Feature Bernard Polidano

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Photo Feature Bernard Polidano

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SaaS at a Glance Article by Johann Mifsud Executive at eSkills Malta Foundation

Software as a Service (SaaS) are software applications that are accessed remotely via the cloud and are not purchased, and hence do not become the property of the customer. Most people already use applications such as Google’s G suite, Zoom video conferencing, Dropbox and Office 365, among others. In addition to these ‘generic’ applications, there are many more complex and specialised applications in use by organisations of all sizes and sectors, from e-Commerce applications for a home-based online business to large enterprise systems for multinationals and anything in between. In some of these applications, the end user pays for the service indirectly via advertisement, while in others, payment is via a periodical subscription.

SaaS commonly refers to software applications licensed and delivered via a periodical subscription type arrangement for most commercial purposes and consumed on demand. This is often based on a per-user, per month, type payment model if the application is user based. Others are based on consumption metrics like volume of data or number of transactions per period of time. Moreover, the service includes the infrastructure and platform also as service. Optionally one may also add additional services such as support, data security and other related services.

In these applications, the heavy lifting is done at the server side, in the cloud, while the user side is accessed via a lightweight application, typically a web browser. Thus the application can be accessed from any mobile device with suitable browser capability, also conferring the advantage of independence from device type.

To understand the pros and cons of this type of application, let us now have a look at some of the advantages.

Indeed, one main advantage is the fact that there is no high initial capital cost associated with the purchase of expensive hardware, including servers, racking, as well as temperature control facilities. As well as the capital cost of software such as operating systems and associated setup costs of a data centre. In addition, costs related to hardware maintenance and costly periodical upgrades are also avoided.

Another critical advantage is scalability, the capability of adding users, resources and additional functionality as needs arise, providing flexibility in terms of ease of increasing capacity and costs in lockstep with the growth of an organisation.

This gives access to fully featured applications right at the start, allowing the possibility to start small and grow while using mature and reliable applications that would otherwise be prohibitively expensive to access to individuals or small organisations.

The costs relative to hiring and maintaining an in-house IT team, can be substantial, especially for a small business.

Modern software systems are complex and varied in nature which implies that in order to have an in-house team that is up-to-date with skills required adds cost. Despite pouring substantial funds into the IT department, one might still not be able to reach a level comparable to that offered by the provider, which can afford to keep their personnel trained at an expert level as they distribute such costs over many customers.

In this sense, SaaS can be very cost advantageous.

Finally, from a reliability point of view, such applications are backed up by significant infrastructure and large data centres.

These provide very high availability and high resilience with 24/7 operation year-round, which translates to low downtime and operational costs.

Naturally, such systems also have disadvantages and certainly of primary importance are concerns over control of sensitive data, in the hands of third parties. In addition to these, there are also concerns related to the security of transmitting data over the internet. Furthermore, there are issues related to the difficulty of how data can be downloaded or transferred to other systems if required. A key concern is what would happen in case of a dispute between the platform vendor and the owner of the data. How would the data be made accessible?

As clearly, it is now stored at the vendor’ s servers. These concerns have been addressed by vendors over the past years by incorporating several measures in their terms to provide peace of mind for their customers.

SaaS systems also typically involve strict control of the software versions in active operation, which in turn severely limit possibilities for customisation making them unattractive to some enterprises that see customisation as an absolute necessity. The same argument also applies in cases that require access to, or integration with the customer’s existing data infrastructure, as this may be difficult. Moreover, by its remote nature, SaaS involves a time delay or latency. In situations that demand response times in a split second, such as with interfaced machinery, such a delay simply implies that these applications cannot be not up to the task.

In conclusion, the future of SaaS applications, based on adoption trajectories and trends, seems to indicate a path of exponential growth. SaaS combined with mobile devices, provides the ability to work from anywhere. Their scalability provides for agile adaptation to market conditions, which makes this model very attractive. Flexible resources, economies of scale, and high quality of service permit organisations to keep costs in check and in synch with growth while still using cutting-edge applications.

This article was prepared by collating various publicly available online sources.

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“If you are really passionate about something and raise your voice, you can make a difference.”

A Breath of Fresh Air Interview with Alex Borg

Alex looks the way you hope a progressive politician would. Frank, focussed, ambitious, charismatic, open minded and fluent on the issues that really matter.

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Alex points out that to make a difference in the longer term, it is essential that young people are engaged in formal political processes and have a say in formulating today’s and tomorrow’s politics. “Inclusive political participation is not only a fundamental political and democratic right but also is crucial to building stable and peaceful societies and developing policies that respond to the specific needs of younger generations.” He adds that for young people to be adequately represented in political institutions, processes, and decision-making, and in particular in elections, they must know their rights and be given the necessary knowledge and capacity to participate in a meaningful way at all levels.

Drawn into politics as a student activist, he recently won a Nationalist Party seat where he focuses on Gozo yet also advocates other key macro issues. “If you are really passionate about something and raise your voice, you can make a difference.” A difference he seeks to make as a member of parliament. A difference he seeks to make with his views and political initiatives. He is a breath of fresh air and a true example that Malta’s young political generation is alive and wants to leave its mark.

Alex notes, “I went to university and studied for a Bachelor of Laws degree yet my professional career was not the only goal on my mind.

I felt my active involvement in politics would be a great opportunity to put my values, my views, my ideas into action. I also felt it was a way how I could do something more for a better society, for a better Malta.” Truly so, because Alex feels that the young generation of political enthusiasts can be the game changers for this country. They can break the status quo. They can instigate and implement change.

Yes, the young generation Alex believes so much in. The young generation of which he is one of its representatives in the political sphere.

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Above all, he feels that the young generation can stimulate discussion on key issues. Something he fondly does such as the country’s need to find the right balance between progression and the protection of its social soul. Something he feels we have failed over the past years to do.

He points out that such balance is fundamental both for today’s society but also for the young and coming generations. “We have a moral obligation to do so. We cannot act irresponsibly or selfishly because our actions can determine the fate of Malta’s today and tomorrow.”

When addressing society matters, he touches on its various strata focussing mainly on the middle class. A segment of our society which has recently shrunk due to various factors and which carries consequences because empirical researchers are increasingly finding that a strong middle class produces higher levels of growth. “The middle class has shrunk and this phenomena has been exacerbated by the uneven impact of the pandemic, and now the war in Ukraine. We need focus and promote policies that will foster economic growth and alleviate the middle class squeeze.

Alex believes that economic growth should be stimulated by innovation. Truly so, because as once noted by Li Keqiang, “Changes call for innovation, and innovation leads to progress.”

Alex notes that one of the important lessons of the past two decades has been the pivotal role of innovation in economic development.

“The build-up of innovation capacities has played a central role in the growth dynamics of successful developing countries. These countries have recognised that innovation is not just about high-technology products and that innovation capacity has to be built early in the development process in order to possess the learning capacities that will allow “catch up” to happen.” He adds that likewise innovation is fundamental for Malta. “Our country’s ability to succeed in the maritime industry, in the aviation sectored, in other key niche segments is a case in point.” Innovation, a key word which he feels can help Gozo stand out of the crowd. Innovation, a key term which can help Gozo highlight its uniqueness.

Innovation though must be be supported by human capital. A challenge our country constantly faces. “From catering to retail and everywhere in between, businesses are struggling to find enough people.” Alex adds, “This is a multi-faceted economic problem and there isn’t one single solution but there is a lot we can do in the immediate and also in the long term.” He points out that education is key and that means not only education the young generation but also the reselling and ups-killing process to ensure the country has enough resources to thrive.

And in this challenging process to develop a better Malta he wants to take an active role both as a citizen, as a politician and as a member of parliament. Quite a challenging task given what it entails, given his age and above all his busy agenda. Yet that is what makes Alex Borg stand out of such a busy political crowd.

He is resilient, determined and wants to succeed no matter what it takes.

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NOVEL

Message in a

Interview with

Mike Downey

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Tell us about the book Istria Gold is the first of a trilogy. Rather than just a straightforward novel, this is a grander concept, if you like, a conduit for portraying Istria at various times in its history. Like the two novels to follow, Istria Gold is structured around three eras, Roman, the mid-1900s and the present day. The most recent introduces the chief protagonist, former undercover cop Marco Mihailić, whose forefathers are involved in equally clandestine activities in the 1940s. The truffle trade drives the narrative in each. Centuries beforehand, the lure of the truffle helps the teenage Lucia escape the bloody confines of Roman Istria.

What’s is the ultimate message u want to convey with Istria Gold?

The book talks the importance to appreciate key values in life such as romance, culture, adventure and history.

It also talks about the impact and repercussions of greed

How did your connection with Istria start?

I first came to Croatia in 1979. I was studying at the Sorbonne in Paris and went to Yugoslavia with my girlfriend at the time, whose parents had a house in Premantura, on the southernmost tip of Istria. I ended up staying there for three months to write my Master’s.

I’m Irish by origin and partly grew up there. Istria felt a lot like Ireland. People were hospitable and welcoming.

It looks very similar, that green, green landscape.

There’s also the regular presence of the Catholic clergy.

What encouraged you to shift towards novel writing at such a late stage in your professional career?

The world of novel writing is littered with writers who come late to the profession. Dafoe was 59 when he began in fiction following the well-trodden path from journalism; Chandler (55) was a failed oil executive; Bukowski was the same age when he hung up his postbag; Lee Child was fired at 40 and famous by 50 and Mary Wesley famously kicked off at 71. Without making any rash comparisons it’s clearly not unusual in this business for people to take up the pen in advanced years. The reasons are as many as there are senior starters but in my case it really was a question of one thing leading to another.

In what way does your hat as a novel writer differ from the other hats you wear?

Writing is in my DNA, it’s second nature. I’m always writing in one way or another. When I write novels, I am in full control of the plot, the story, the ending and the final outcome. It is not the people around you that determine what you want to achieve from the story you want to relate. A novel is not conditioned by budgets.

You can actually be budget poor, yet rich with ideas and still create something big like a movie. I also feel that a film belongs to many people yet a novel is something which you will identify to a specific author.

You often spoke about gender equality. Where do we stand?

It is something I insist on and try to address directly or indirectly in my work. We need to keep in mind that 50% of all human beings on this planet are women thus it is imperative to level up gender balance. Istria Gold seeks to address the matter by means of the characters chosen. As a matter of fact, most of the characters are women especially in the Roman section.

What’s next?

I am working on the next two volumes following which I will then seek treasure elsewhere, in the Far East, amid the myths surrounding the writer Anthony Burgess.

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Y a c h t i n g M a lta

Yachting Malta is proud to welcome the Yacht Racing Forum

The leading annual conference for the business of sailing and yacht racing Malta | 21 – 22 November 2022 www.yachtingmalta.org

Volume 14

An Autumn Breeze

Volume 14