Spring in the valley 2018 composite

Explore APRIL - JUNE 2018 • ULSTER PUBLISHING • WWW.HUDSONVALLEYONE.COM

Spring in the Valley

Time to get out and about once again

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• April - June, 2018

Explore Hudson Valley

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April - June, 2018 • 3

A bittersweet season In the high peaks ski areas, winter departs somewhat sadly

By Elisabeth Henry

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inters have consequences. The layer of snow that blankets the landscape beneath a matte grey sky disguises damage and conceals lost items, some of them important. When the snow cover melts back we see where the ground heaved, where rocks moved and how foundations shifted. There are the dog toys!

And there’s that snow shovel that would have been so handy when that late blizzard hit, burying the path to the car three feet under.

In our forest there’s a tree we always called The Ethan Frome tree. The trunk divides and branches out first in a horizontal, east/west direction, then each of those reaches skyward. Depending on one’s mood at the moment, it may look like “hands up, don’t shoot” or “touch down!” This year, the wind and snow won out. Now it’s a one armed tree, the damaged limb a shredded stump. Decades ago, when I first saw it, this property was

FRANCIS X. DRISCOLL

From April through June, new blooms appear in a succession of colors, even at the highest altitudes where mountain laurel dominates on the south-facing slopes. acres of woodland, compromised by one narrow footpath created by deer and Prescott Curtis. Curtis confessed to me at the diner one rainy, gloomy day while we

Table of contents A bittersweet season

splendor by Ann Hutton.......................32

In the high-peaks ski areas, winter departs sadly by Elisabeth Henry ........................ 3

The perfect spring meal

Us and them

It’s time to start eating fresh again by Jennifer Brizzi ...................................... 38

Learning the Hudson Valley’s quirks by Susan Barnett......................................... 6

House hunting is us

Festivals, festivals

Real-estate changes define the Hudson Valley by Vinnie Manginelli ............... 40

Everyone’s ready to get outside now and party by Sparrow .................................. 12

Quench those thirsts!

When the art is public

A roundup of Hudson valley beer, cider and spirits by Chris Rowley .................44

Roadside culture in the Hudson Valley

by Lynn Woods.......................................20

Rambling season

Back to campus

It’s okay to simply get outside and walk

by Lissa Harris ...................................... 52

The Hudson Valley’s rich with academic

shared coffee at the counter, that he had been traipsing on this property since boyhood. He knew every stand of berries and wild apples, every creek, every tumbling rock wall. Curtis’ lungs had been damaged in The Big One. He had cut back on his hikes. I didn’t ask him about the tree. I wish I had. Curtis died in 1980. Unlike Curtis, my neophyte explorer’s eyes took in that landscape as just one slide show after another of “tree, rock, forest floor.”

But way back then, I made note of that tree. That particular tree.

People flock to this region for winter sports. Most ski or snowboard. They like the cold, they like to feel speed, they must have a cracker-jack sense of balance. Then we have the cross country skiers, who like to sweat, I guess. The snow-shoers must crave silence. All of this is understandable.

Then we have ice climbers. A puzzling lot.

I suspect they pray for what I loathe most.

Ice. I must give the devil its due. Battling ice as I do has made me fearless about falling. I fall all the time on the damned stuff. Recently I slipped on the wet floor of a restaurant, puddles left there by ski-

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rant owners get ready ers boots. Adolescent bus to paint their porches. boys sprang to the rescue, Landscapers are fine cheeks pink, babbling tuning their mowers about how their own and weed whackers, and grandma had recently master gardeners are broken her hip. I assured assembling their seed them I would not be packets, pots and bags of bunking with grandma potting soil. The heaters anytime soon, and got in the green houses must myself up rather handily. be serviced. Farmers As much as I hate interremove plows from their acting with ice, I love to tractors and fit them look at it. We are lucky, with other attachments. here, to have at least two Lumberjacks check their wonderful landscape chainsaws and pulleys photographers, Francis and ropes, and everybody X. Driscoll and Elaine senses that Spring will Warfield. They brave be soon. Tom Turkeys the elements and the extend their wings, fan darkest hours to go to their tails, puff up their the secret places, the hidbodies, turn their carunden vantage points. They cles, snoods and wattles capture moments. They a startling blue and strut find exquisite shadows in in circles, rattling their moonlight, extravagant wings. A group of males forests of icicles, and will strut in a circle and if many more than fifty a young male tries to join shades of grey in a sky in, he will be forced out. that waits for the storm.

Pipsqueak. If the winter We also have Larry Gamwas mild, robins remain. bon, who waits patiently If it was harsh, and food in hip deep snow to was scarce, they would capture that shot of a fox have gone off in search leaping in the air, a piaffe of berries. No matter, the that will soon seal the fate sight of a red breasted of a wee mousey. These male is always welcome worlds are precious. And against the still barren fleeting.

FRANCIS X. DRISCOLL ground. The warblers Now you look at the Jack in the pulpit is a dramatic sign of early spring in the come back, and so do the mountainside and see a Catskills. hawks. The lambs and pink haze. Those are the foals are born, and soon, too, the fawns. a distance. There are so many of them, myriad buds ready to burst on the myriad The predators are hungry and bold. They and it’s like a GIF of glee, festivity where trees in this deciduous forest. The skiers are parents, too. The bears wake up. The there would otherwise loom a barren, and riders and climbers will leave. These snowbanks recede. Now comes the mud. lonely mountainside. They do leave us, small towns will reveal just how few though. Even now, when the slopes are people keep things going. If we haven’t thick with snow, many of them are sitting already, we must remember to thank our e have so much mud because in realtors offices on Long Island, or New snow removal guys for the fabulous job we have glorious water. So much Jersey, signing summer leases on beach they do, so superior to that in the major water. It will thunder down the cliffs. It houses. What do we do? The lift operators cities. It’s a dark and dangerous job. They will be scary. It will be so abundant that make way for the music festival workers. earn their rest. The restaurateurs have the earth, just waking up, not quite soft, The maple syrup folks are in the forest, the time to see to whatever particular can’t drink it all. There will be mud. This tapping trees. The community theater request you may have, especially if you is especially problematic for fussy house people are making their selections for have politely held back demands when keepers and those who take pride in the the season, and holding auditions in town they were frazzled and exhausted during interior of their cars. This is made all halls and church common rooms. Producthe weeks of “the rush.” the more so if one happens, in this seation companies arrive in big, box truck full son, to encounter affectionate Labrador of camera equipment and wardrobe. Lots (DROP CAP) I like to see the skiers on Retrievers. Labs love people. And mud. of movies are shot here. Plein air painters the slopes. They look like speeding poppy Nothing soothes that itchy, soon-to-bepurchase pigments and brushes. Restauseeds on the white trails when viewed from shed heavy coat of a Labrador like roll-

W

April - June, 2018 • 5

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ing in mud and then, perhaps, getting a good scratch from that unsuspecting person over there! And, if you can’t get a good scratch, the second best thing is to give a good shake. Just ask the congregants of Temple AnsheiHashoron who innocently left open the doors of their sanctuary to let in the sweet, soft air of Spring, which also allowed in my oversized and intact chocolate male.

The glee of the season had allowed him to uncharacteristically burst through our electric fence, looking for fellow revelers. Or something.

Horses agree with dogs that mud has a purpose and that purpose is to provide that exquisite gratification, the good roll. This

is made all the more so after the human has developed tendonitis from grooming a matted coat for hours. The hearty roll is like a wonderful digestiv, the wind down after a good meal. The horse grunts and sighs with pleasure.

And speaking of digestivs, Spring is the time of tummy troubles, for humans and animals. Notably horses. People prone to ulcer and gall bladder issues notice this, as do equine veterinarians. I do not presume to offer cures. However, I find fascinating what our bodies know, and how they know

it. How we, like deer, convert the winter gut into the summer gut, so as to best digest available food. Deer cannot digest hay, or grasses, in winter. Their bodies best digest browse and seeds — the stuff available in the “ber” and “ary” months.

As the days lengthen, we eschew hearty soups and stews and yearn for greens and peaches. We will shed heavy coats and boots and look to the sky without fearing the storm. Despite stern warnings about UV rays we will welcome the sun. We are still animals. There is hope for us yet.

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Spring in the Valley April - June, 2018 An Ulster Publishing publication

Public Drop In Hockey/Sticks & Pucks $8 for Adults, $6 for Children Skate Rentals - $3 a pair. Hockey and Figure Skates available

Editorial WRITERS: Susan Barnett, Jennifer Brizzi, Lissa Harris, Elisabeth Henry, Ann Hutton, Vinnie Manginelli, Chris Rowley, Sparrow, Lynn Woods EDITOR: Paul Smart COVER PHOTO BY Dion Ogust LAYOUT BY Joe Morgan

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EVENTS IN THE CATSKILLS

Ulster Publishing PUBLISHER: Geddy Sveikauskas ADVERTISING DIRECTOR: Genia Wickwire DISPLAY ADS: Lynn Coraza, Pam Courselle, Elizabeth Jackson, Ralph Longendyke, Sue Rogers, Linda Saccoman PRODUCTION MANAGER: Joe Morgan PRODUCTION: Diane Congello-Brandes, Josh Gilligan, Rick Holland CLASSIFIED ADS: Amy Murphy, Tobi Watson CIRCULATION: Dominic Labate

Spring in the Valley is one of four Explore Hudson Valley supplements Ulster Publishing puts out each year.

It is distributed in the company’s four weekly newspapers and separately at select locations, reaching an estimated readership of over 50,000.

Its website is www.hudsonvalleyone.com.

For more info on upcoming special sections, including how to place an ad, call 845-334-8200, fax 845-334-8202 or email: info@ulsterpublishing.com.

April 28 & 29 TAP New York at Hunter Mountain www.tap-ny.com

May 12 RVW Wine, Brew & Beverage Festival @ the Historic Catskill Point

May 19 Maifest at the Mountain Brauhaus www.crystalbrook.com

May 26 & 27 East Durham Irish Festival www.eastdurhamirishfestival.com

June 8, 9 & 10 Taste of Country Music Festival www.tasteofcountryfestival.com

June 15, 16 & 17 Mountain Jam XIV www.mountainjam.com

For a complete listing of all events in The Great Northern Catskills visit www.GreatCatskillEvents.com

IT’S A WORLD AWAY… BUT CLOSER THAN YOU THINK

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• April - June, 2018

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Us And Them Learn the Hudson Valley’s quirks

by Susan Barnett e are in what is known as the Mid-Hudson region. At least that’s what most tourism guides will tell you. But if you read this publication, you know that includes the Catskills.

And the Hudson Valley. And the hill towns. It stretches from one side of the river to the other, up the mountains on both sides of the Hudson and beyond.

If you live here, you know that, despite that regional label, there’s more than a bit of territorial pride from area to area.

I get the insider’s view because I’m a broker. It’s all subjective, of course, and it involves sweeping generalities. Which makes it pretty entertaining.

W

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County Fairgrounds. FDR lived here.

On the Fourth of July, they gather near the Rhinecliff Amtrak station and watch Kingston’s fireworks without having to deal with any Kingstonians. Ahhhhh.

They go across the river to shop at the malls. They cross the river to access the Thruway. They even work across the river.

But when it’s time to go home? East they go.

Those who live west of the Hudson consider themselves a lot more down to earth. They’re the artsy ones. The bohemians. They sniff as they refer to the east side as “Hamptons wannabes.”

The east side is bulging with an influx of Brooklyn expats who are snapping up homes in Kingston faster than they can get to market. Woodstock and its suburbs are skewing younger and more European.

Popularity comes with a price. The quirky charm of the Hurley Ridge Market on Route 375 has been replaced with a “buy our brand or go hungry” corporate behemoth. The Kingston traffic circle really has traffic. Parking, everywhere, is an issue.

However, if you want to save the world, write, start a band, or go vegan, the west (continued on page 10)

Explore Hudson Valley

April - June, 2018 • 7

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April - June, 2018 • 9

color 10

• April - June, 2018

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side of the river is where the options are.

Hills vs. Valleys Regional snobbery is not confined to east and west of the Hudson. There’s fierce territorial pride based on elevation.

Newburgh, Kingston, Saugerties, Catskill and Coxsackie are all river towns on the west side of the Hudson. And no matter how popular and trendy or troubled and struggling any of them may be from one year to the next, they all share the classic

Entertainment

urban disdain for the countryside. Beacon, Poughkeepsie and Hudson are, in this way at least, just like their western neighbors.

They all look down their noses at the “hill towns,” despite the challenge of looking down your nose at something which is above you.

The valleys have the malls. They have the box stores. You’re not going to find a Panera in Andes.

The hill towns feel superior for just that reason. Whether it’s Bovina, Phoenicia, Tannersville or Hillsdale, their very smallness is a point of pride. They are hyperlocal and so are their businesses. If they need to go to a box store, they’ll go to the poor misguided towns which sold their souls to get them.

Ulster/Greene and Dutchess/Columbia

Drums Along the Esopus May 19, 2018 • 11-4

Another attitude common to both sides of the river is a certain chill between neighbors to the north and south. Counties may mean nothing to those who see this as a region, but they’re significant to those who live here. When my kids were young, we lived in a Connecticut town that saw itself as upscale. The next school district was more rural, and any sporting event between them was known as a meeting of the snobs and the farmers. That dynamic can be seen on either side of the river.

Ulster and Dutchess, being a bit more developed, tend to see their northern neighbors as “farmers.” Greene and Columbia County residents see their southern neighbors as “snobs.” Hudson may be the one exception to this rule. Hudson, despite being in “farmer” territory, has an Amtrak station. And that has made it

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April - June, 2018 • 11

Explore Hudson Valley

prices are higher in snob towns. Deals might possibly still be found where the farmers hide. For now.

Beyond the Labels

Everyone did. A main street that, just a couple of years ago, had many vacant storefronts for sale is now sold out, and new businesses seem to open every day.

Simple rule, at least for now. Home

Humans share a love of discovery.

Mass transit once dictated the limits of exploration for many visitors from the city. But the arrival of Zipcars, Lyft and Uber has opened up new vistas. Visitors are exploring well beyond the usual main routes. They are finding the smaller towns that were once off the beaten path. And they’re falling in love.

They’ve got a wider perspective. They’re coming from Outside. And that may mean that, in time, the regionalization of our area will become more than just a label on a map. They may eventually break down those geographical stereotypes.

But there’s one factor that may stand in the way.

A side effect of moving to an area is an uncontrollable urge to become a local. Our newcomers are consumed with pride when they choose to adopt a new community as their own. So it may well turn out that our newest residents are the most rigidly local of all.

dar Grove across the river in Catskill.

History buffs can get their fill at the New Windsor Cantonment near Newburgh, home to Washington’s Headquarters, or Martin Van Buren’s home outside of Kinderhook. Hudson has the state’s impressively inclusive Fireman’s Museum, while Kingston has the Maritime Museum, and Saugerties boasts a lighthouse one can walk to.

There’s a very cool children’s museum

in Poughkeepsie, a quaint museum of decoration in Uptown Kingston, and just a few miles further afield the site where the epochal 1969 Woodstock Festival took place in Bethel Woods, the Valhalla of aging hippies. There’s even one of the nation’s great state capital cities, older than any outside of Santa Fe, at the valley’s northern end in Albany.

There’s much more. Who needs destinations elsewhere?

PUBLIC DOMAIN IMAGE OF CURRIER & IVES LITHOGRAPH

Local differences have never grown as great as those that led to our nation’s Civil War, and probably won’t even as the nation’s disunity increases today. appealing to “snobs.”

Catskill once had a cheeky billboard put up inviting visitors to consider the west side of the river. “It’s a river,” the sign said.

“Get over it.”

Destination home!

I

t’s easy to be a tourist in one’s own home. A trip across the river, or off into the mountains, can feel as soul-enriching as a trip to another state or country. Consider the wealth of destinations right here.

Ever been to Innisfree Gardens outside Millbrook, an extraordinary example of “cup gardens” that get particularly resplendent this time of year, or the nearby Trevor Zoo at the private Millbook School just east of town? How about New Paltz’s Historic Huguenot Street, which offers events and exhibits in addition to having one of the nation’s greatest concentrated collections of stone houses.

The east shore of the Hudson River is filled with the Gilded Age’s great mansions in Staatsburgh (The Mills) and Hyde Park (the Vanderbilt) along with historic homes such as the Livingston Family’s Clermont in Columbia County, Boscobel in Garrison, and the Roosevelts’ Hyde Park home and nearby Val-Kill.

For arts, try Frederick Church’s opulent vista-hugging Olana, as well as his mentor Thomas Cole’s quieter Ce-

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• April - June, 2018

Explore Hudson Valley

Festivals, festivals Plenty of excuses to get out this springtime

By Sparrow

N

etflix has vastly improved winter in the Hudson Valley. Instead of staring bleakly out the window cursing the latest blizzard, you can cuddle with your spouse and watch Babylon Berlin. After a few months, you may begin to yearn for actual communal life — physical, three-dimensional beings, not pale images on a screen pretending to reside in Weimar Germany. Well, the good news is: festivals! As the pin oaks regenerate their foliage and the phoebes remember their songs, humans gather to sample local wines, play country music…and celebrate sheep!

Here are some tips for festival-attending:

maverick concerts 103 rd Season of Music in the Woods Weekends June 30 –September 2 Classical Jazz Children’s Music

www.maverickconcerts.org 120 Maverick Road Woodstock NY 12498

COURTESY OF NY TAP

NY Tap, which takes place later in April at Hunter Mountain, has become New York’s biggest craft-beer celebration.

COURTESY OF FRIENDS OF CLERMONT

The annual Chancellor’s Sheep & Wool Festival at the historic Livingston family home Clermont is one of the earlier spring festivals each year.

1) Arrive at least an hour late — it’s no fun to be the first at a fairgrounds.

2) Carry a small songbook with you, in case you meet some friends. You may wish to sing together.

3) Bring ten to twelve figs to share with your friends after singing.

4) Carry a stick of incense, and light it at exactly 3:21 p.m. Just as 4:20 is the universal time to smoke marijuana, 3:21 is the moment to light incense.

B

ethel Woods, scene of the original Woodstock Aquarian Exposition, has a heroic vista reminiscent of a battlefield, but in fact it’s the opposite: a place where 470,000 waged peace, not war. The day I went, a resplendent rainbow rose over John Cougar Mellencamp.

The Rip Van Winkle Wine, Brew & Beverage Festival gathers beermakers,

April - June, 2018 • 13

Explore Hudson Valley

JOSH TIMMERMANS COURTESY OF MOUNTAIN JAM

Mountain Jam, produced by WDST Radio Woodstock at Hunter Mountain in June, has become one of the nation’s recurring rock festivals. craftspeople, bakers, and sandwich inventors on the bank of the harmonious Hudson on Saturday, May 12 in Catskill.

What could be more soothing than sipping a buttery Chardonnay as the mighty estuarial waters sidle by? This unpretentious celebration, full of plucky and magnanimous Catskillites, is sponsored by the Fortnightly Club, a women’s group now in its 86th year.

As a person who surreptitiously reads The Stinky Cheese Man and Other Fairly Stupid Tales, I know the seething pleasures of children’s literature, the literary equivalent of “the love that dare not speak its name.” On May 5, the Hudson Children’s Book Festival, now in its tenth year, will feature over 75 authors and illustrators.

One of their headliners is Kwame Alexander, poet, entrepreneur, editor, and literary ambassador. Born in Crown Heights, Brooklyn, Alexander has written 25 books and led cultural delegations to Brazil, Italy, Singapore and Ghana. His young-adult novel The Crossover, a hiphop-influenced basketball story told in

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verse, was rejected by 22 publishers until Houghton Mifflin Harcourt printed it and sold 500,000 copies. Alexander now has his own imprint, Versify, for innovative children’s literature. Dust off your Punk version of Peter Rabbit and gently foist it on him.

The Taste of Country Music Festival, the largest gathering of American music fans in the Northeast, runs June 8 to 10 at Hunter Mountain. More than 20 artists will perform on two stages. Famous since she was 13, LeAnn Rimes has a confiding voice, a three-octave musical range, and a love of pure melody. She appears Sunday, June 10.

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playing extended solos in the manner of the Grateful Dead — the conclave has broadened to include nearly every type of contemporary pop music, from the creamy soul-gospel of the (weirdly named) Liz Vice to the apocalyptic neo-New Wave of Everything Everything. George Clinton, whose interstellar carnival funk has delighted generations of ecstatic dance floor intellectuals, brings the legendary

Farm, a 453-acre venue. (Some cupcakes are topped with donuts!) There’s also face painting, hayrides and a rabbit petting zoo. A 5K run threads through apple orchards, strawberry fields and grasslands, with a view of the recumbent Shawangunks.

Mountain Jam, June 14 through 17, is a yearly music mecca. Originally specializing in jam bands — ensembles

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The Wildflower Festival at Catskill Native Nursery in Kerhonkson is free, the weekend of May 19-20. Founded in 1999, the nursery is committed to gardening with plants native to our region. A variety of organic flower and vegetable seedlings will be on sale, courtesy of the Hudson Valley Seed Company. Gardening gurus will dispense advice.

East Durham’s Irish Festival on Memorial Day weekend features nonstop music, step dancing, Celtic keepsakes, body art — and pizza! Among the bands performing are Shilelagh Law, Craic AgusCeol, Kilashandra and The Whistlin’ Donkeys.

Storyteller Terry Patterson will entertain visitors with a cup of tea, scones and Irish tales at Donegal Cottage.

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Black Friday. The spring market on May 12 and 13 offers produce from nearby farms, vintage clothing, avant-garde art, herbal tinctures and artisanal candles, There will also be “Insist-Persist-Resist” posters, kimchi, gnomes made from felt, floor malted bourbon, rare and “sparse” books – anything that isn’t shrink-wrapped and barcoded.

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Dutchess County Fairgrounds May 4 through 6. Hot rods, street rods, racecars and custom autos compete for prizes awarded by 200 volunteer judges. Monster engines, deuce coupes, and “gullwing” doors will be on display. Past years have included cars from as early as 1910 — plus ones that resemble extraterrestrial golf carts.

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hepherds and their flocks are themes of Western literature from its very beginning. “Hesperus, carrying everything that shining Dawn scattered, you bring the sheep…” wrote Sappho circa 600 BCE. There are 5.34 million sheep

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in the United States, or anyway there were in 2013, the last year sheep were reliably tallied. (By way of comparison, there are 1.48 million Presbyterians.)

In the Hudson Valley, where sheep are few, they are nonetheless honored at the yearly Chancellor’s Sheep & Wool Showcase at Clermont State Historic Site on Saturday, April 21. Over 30 skilled artisans and local craftspeople will participate. And incidentally, newborn lambs look like fluffy mammalian angels.

Don’t forget all that’s going on at the Dutchess County Fairgrounds in Rhinebeck this season, including the Camper’s World RV Show April 19 through 22, the Autism Walk & Expo of the Hudson Valley (autismwalkhv.org) on April 29, the Rhinebeck Antique Car Show & Swap Meet (rhinebeckcarshow.com) May 4 through 6, the Northeast Outdoor Show (NEOutdoorshow.com) May 19 and 20,

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Places to stay, resorts and spas

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e no longer have the grand Catskills resorts and mountain houses which accommodated up to 300 guests, or the boarding houses scattered around the Hudson Valley that were really just spare rooms in residents’ Victorian homes. Where does one stay that feels of the region?

Campgrounds are an option for those who want to save money, cook outdoors, and sleep really close to nature. The next step up the price scale is the smattering of motels that offer convenience and basic accommodations, especially along old travel routes once known as “blue highways.” For more luxury, attentive hosts, and possibly an indoor swimming pool, look for a small hotel or bed-andbreakfast, many built in what used to be older inns and boarding houses.

Finally, there are the growing short-stay rentals offered by VRBO, Airbnb and HomeExchange that nestle you right into a community. And don’t forget that there are still some of those older-style family-oriented resorts still around, usually offering packages that include meals, rooms and access to swimming, hiking, tennis, recreation halls, entertainment and other amenities. There’s of course always the opportunity to socialize with fellow guests.

Another kind of resort is the spa, which generally provides exercise, saunas, massage, yoga and other health-oriented activities, all in the healing serenity of the mountains and often in the context of a high-end luxury hotel. Come to think of it, they’re not all that different from the old resorts that brought myriads of guests to enjoy the beauty of this region.

the Barn Star Antiques at Rhinebeck (barnstar.com) May 26 and 27, the Country Living Fair (countrylivingfair.com) on June 1, 2 and 3, the Goodguys Rod & Custom Car Show (Good-Guys.com) June 15 and 16.

If you’re thirsty, there’s always the huge Tap New York craft-brewing fest April 28 and 29 at Hunter Mountain, now in its 21st year (tap-ny.com).

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PUBLIC DOMAIN PHOTO

Tyler Borchert and son pose at one of the Kingston artist’s impromptu Rondout sculptures.

When the art is public Roadside culture in Kingston

By Lynn Woods mid the mash-up of trafficengineered order and natural chaos of the street are sudden sparks of beauty — a mural over there, a row of embellished corbels over here, perhaps a harmonious arrangement of artisan goods in the storefront you happen to be passing by.

Be it a city, town, village or rural hamlet, the built environment in this region tends to be a hodge-podge of layered history. Vernacular rustic and Gothic,

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Italianate and classically styled architectural remnants of the distant past abut parking lots. Blank-faced Modernist facades and scrubby parks are topped off with commercial signage that is by turns tasteful and trashy. The dismal lack of planning in the American urbanscape sets low expectations, so it is with a whiff of surprised delight that one discovers a nugget of beautiful design, and positive excitement when it is an art object, free of the constraints of the market or engineering necessity, and simply an enticement to the imagina-

tion — a mural, statue, piece of abstract sculpture, carved decorative detail, even an inspired work of graffiti or borderline kitschy folk piece displayed on a front yard or porch.

Beyond the curated white-walled precincts of the gallery and museum, one discovers art that’s a mix of good and bad, alternately enchanting and annoying, but always packing a punch. Perceiving art in unexpected places entails a sense of discovery, of adventure. As part of the ephemera of the street, public art’s presence tends to be precarious — take that

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photo now! —and at best, fades over time.

Residing as we do in an artist-rich region, we don’t have to go far to make these discoveries. It’s more a matter of sharpening and expanding our attention — an engagement that heightens the fun.

Driving around Kingston and on my daily walks with my dog around my neighborhood, I’ve come to treasure these brief, unexpected aesthetic encounters.

They jazz up my routine. It’s a constant gauge of my attention.

I must have walked by that porch a dozen times before I noticed the life-size hand-carved painted wooden statue of Abe Lincoln, complete with top hat and rolled-up scroll in his hand, positioned next to the front door of a modest brick rowhouse. It’s been there for years now, a fabulous piece of folk art that I used to worry would get stolen. The fact that it hasn’t makes me feel good about my neighborhood and city.

A few summers ago, the wasteland marking the former site of the Forst slaughterhouse, across the street from the walkway along Rondout Creek, suddenly got interesting. Impromptu sculptures formed of large chunks of bluestone and branches expertly balanced appeared, whimsical forms that suggested figures or hieroglyphics. It was a shifting spectacle.

Each week, artist Tyler Borchert, who maintains a studio nearby on the creek — as I later learned — would rearrange the pieces into a new work of art. Their gesticulations in the desolate setting, serenaded by sparrows, cardinals and

WIKICOMMONS

Montrepose cemetery in Kingston hosts some remarkable pieces of public art. mourning doves, exposed to the burning sun and tempestuous rains, gave them a heroic, elegiac quality. ne of the joys of public art is the way it interacts with the public space, asserting itself amid all manner of random interferences, and subtly charging the mundane with psychological drama. An imaginative, metaphoric world is grafted onto the everyday, unsettling it. It’s an invitation to the discerning eye, which must ferret out the

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piece from the work-a-day world, since there’s no label saying “this is art.” (On the other hand, I would argue the success of a piece is partly determined by the subtlety of this process. Artworks that impose themselves on the viewer and don’t resonate with their surroundings can detract from the space and be oppressive.)

Farther down the creek, Rondout’s maritime past is commemorated by two wonderfully composed murals. One, by Todd Samara, depicts men repairing sails

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as a sloop and tug pass by in the creek in the artist’s trademark fauve colors. It’s painted on the brick façade of the Hudson River Maritime Museum. The other is a Matt Pleva painting that covers the entire wall of the adjacent Riverport Wooden Boat School. Pleva’s representation of the old Rondout commercial waterfront, complete with sloop, lighthouse, row of buildings (since torn down) and a giant moon encompassing a black sphere (signaling an eclipse?), playfully conjures up a giant-size etching. It’s black and white, with the tonal areas described in varying patterns of crosshatching, a style that harks back to 19th-century print engravings, thus doubly evoking the past while making a Modernist statement as a painting that mimics a drawing.

Both artists have contributed murals elsewhere in the city: Samara’s huge river mural adorns the wall of the Catholic

Charities’ building on lower Broadway.

His painted aerial view of Rondout, in which gable-roofed buildings are nestled into yellow-green hills, seems to dissolve the interior wall over the booths at Tony’s Pizzeria. Todd also covered the walls of the pizzeria bathroom with painted faces of locals, rather unsettling in a place of

privacy).

Pleva’s second Kingston mural depicts the old Dutch Church on a wall overlooking Peace Park in Uptown Kingston.

Around the corner, on the same building, is a mural by Gaia of an enormous Artemis, the Greek goddess of hunting, wild animals and childbirth, her arms

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outstretched, with giant, beckoning hands, rising from a quarry; above the background quarry is a view of New York City skyscrapers, immersed in a bluish atmosphere. The Baltimore-based artist, who is internationally acclaimed, has created a looming image that dramatically greets people entering Kingston from North Front Street.

While the eco-warning — there’s something ominous about the goddess’s

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Matt Pleva made his name creating miniature dioramas. Now, with the help of the O Positive Festival, his intricate murals have graced entire building fronts in Kingston. humongous blank white face — is appreciated (presumably It has to do with the extraction of dwindling resources from the earth to create our megacities and nature’s revenge), the piece is not my favorite. Its image of pagan power strikes me as kitschy and pretentious, a copy of a Mannerist copy of a Roman copy of an ancient Greek work of art. It is nonetheless well done and eye-catching. I enjoyed the spectacle of the artist, perched on a high lift at night under the glare of white lights, painting it back in 2013.

he mural is one of many painted in Kingston as part of the annual 0+ Festival, which year by year is turning its old brick walls into rainbow-hued images, as though a prism had passed over the city. Some works have incited controversy. While most viewers agree the works are to be commended for their depiction of under-represented groups and other socially charged timely subject matter, which in some cases is directly linked to the region’s history, some resi-

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dents don’t like the overly illustrative approach of some of the pieces and their lack of sophisticated pictorial harmony, particularly pertaining to color (I would count myself in this group).

It’s a tricky line, to let street artists do their thing yet not alienate the residents by creating something they hate. Certainly history is full of examples of the public protesting what are now considered to be great works of art. Think of the Parisian crowds jeering the exhibits of Impressionist paintings in the 1870s.

Because the murals occupy the public

viewshed, however, it seem that some experienced curatorial input should come into play. Ensuring that the art isn’t socially abhorrent or hostile to the community and the immediate environment is important. The O+ organizers have been attentive to this consideration. Last year, one reaction from a member of the community veered grotesquely to an extreme when she complained that a mural of Native Americans was too exclusionary!

Recently commissioned murals that I think succeed tend to be less topical. I’m a fan of the Pleva pieces and the fabulous

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abstract mural on the side of Barcone’s.

Its whimsical arcs and triangles on a background of tropical pinks brighten up a dreary stretch of Broadway, evoking also a musicality that relates to the business as a purveyor of musical instruments. The wall painting also relates to the pentimento of painted signs a few blocks down, the image of a hanger and “garment center” and “Uneda” still visible on two buildings near the railroad tracks.These are the faintest of echoes of Kingston’s thriving manufacturing past, which every year grow dimmer.

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Other more recent vernacular painted signs that give character to the city are “Dallas Hot Weiners,” the words perked up by a red hotdog and flames, on Broadway, and “Jennifer Shop,” from some long-gone clothing store Uptown.

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ack downtown, at Block Park, Hendrik Dijk’s 1994 Op Art geometrical mural on a freestanding concrete wall has recently been restored by Cindy Gill Lapp. Lapp contributed her own piece, a blue peacock against a turquoise sky, on the inverse side of the wall. The strong design, rich color and the assertion of flatness, which relates to the tradition of sign painting in the city, gives it punch, especially on a cold, gray day when the surrounding landscape has faded to parchment.

When we lost the slaughterhouse, we also lost some terrific graffiti, though inspired spray-paint scrawls persist on the

PUBLIC DOMAIN PHOTO

Heroic sculptures such as this image of the state’s first postRevolution governor, George Clinton, once graced public squares throughout the Hudson Valley. This particular piece of art in one of Newburgh’s public squares in the 19th century recently found a home in a new public space.

hidden sides of buildings in Kingston. For example, the owner of a building on Prince Street is preserving the graffiti that covers the wall near the entrance and even plans to commission street artists in the future.

For months now, parking near the Central Hudson gas fields for my walks at Kingston Point, I encounter the mysterious “eye heart” inscription on plywood covering the windows of an abandoned brick building off East Strand. It somehow reminds me of the faded eyeglasses of Doctor Eckleburg that famously loomed over the ash field in The Great Gatsby (though the power of its persistence is now imperiled; this morning I noticed much of the plywood had been ripped off ).

More exuberant graffiti covers the bridge over the 9W arterial highway, part of the still-in-development in-city rail-trail: each metal panel along the sides provides a kind of frame for the spray-paint swoops and dabs, giving the

Art galleries and museums

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ooking for culture with a capital C, beyond what can be seen from the car? Been hearing about how much of today’s art market is being dominated by artists who call the Hudson Valley home, at least part of each year, the same way the Hamptons once birthed and then nurtured Abstract Expressionism? The trick to catching what’s being made around here is to learn which towns are where the galleries congregate.

Talk about great rainy-day activities! Woodstock and Hudson have several longstanding arts organizations highlighting both traditional and cutting-edge work. Major campus museums at Bard, Vassar and SUNY New Paltz show top contemporary art and, in several cases, prime examples of the traditions it comes out of.

Jack Shainman’s The School in Kinderhook is a venue that draws visitors from all over. Things pick up with art

tourists and students each summer, but now’s also a great time for regular openings in Rhinebeck and New Paltz, High Falls and Kingston, Beacon, Catskill and Newburgh, plus other small locales with burgeoning scenes.

Check out local listings to see what’s what, who’s where, and when things are happening. There’s nothing like a Hudson Valley art opening to meet and greet some of our communities’ most creative people!

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segments a compositional clarity.

Also falling in the category of spontaneous street art is the compelling architectural structure, accessible through an arched doorway, of abandoned concrete blocks on the site. (This place is off-limits to the public, unfortunately.) Graffiti artists have added touches of purple and red to the curved walls. If you wander, as I do, among the undeveloped edges of this former industrial city, you will make your own discoveries of these fascinating interferences.

At the other end of the spectrum are the stone memorials that grace the cemeteries, the grounds of the city hall and Academy Green, which is home to bronze statues depicting Henry Hudson, George Clinton and Peter Stuyvesant. I’ve often glimpsed these guys, arranged in a row above a low stone wall, while waiting in traffic on Governor Clinton Boulevard.

I never took a close look until yesterday.

They are huge — twice life-size — and their details of clothing, their buttoned shoes and tall boots, tight-fitting jackets and pantaloons, and the hats, respectively plumed and tricorner, carried by Hudson and Clinton, are beautifully conveyed.

Each also has a lounging, relaxed grace

in heroic stance.

A recent addition to the genre of commemorative statuary is the bronze statue of Sojourner Truth, depicted as a child, when she was a slave working for a local tavernkeeper, in Memorial Square Park on Route 9W in Port Ewen. The sculpture of the striding, long-legged girl by Trina Greene, breaks from the iconic image of the famous orator, abolitionist and

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women’s suffragette as an elderly woman.

It’s a hopeful gesture toward more public recognition of women and people of color. ommemorative statuary is a tradition that has unfortunately suffered as cities get torn down and styles change. The streetscape of Newburgh’s East End, for example, which dated back to the early 19th century, included

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• April - June, 2018

Colden Square, a triangle of land where several streets converged, and was punctuated with a statue of George Clinton.

When the area was demolished in the 1960s, the sculpture was stashed behind the city’s public works garbage-truck storage area, according to Newburgh historian Mary McTamaney. Similarly, a large bronze bust of Dante, commissioned by the Sons of Italy and placed in Downing Park. The group hoped it would spur the installation of other literary figures representing the city’s various ethnic groups. McTamaney said it

Explore Hudson Valley

was removed when the city’s parks department was disbanded in 1970. Both statues have since been resurrected, Clinton at the new Clinton Square intersection on the west end of town and Dante, since painted battleship gray, at the entrance to the public library.

In the past, Kingston’s businessmen amassed significant wealth, as evidenced by the fine examples of funerary statuary in Montrepose Cemetery. This splendid example of mid 19th-century Romantic landscape design still retains a sense of an Arcadia, despite many large trees that

have come down and intrusions such as the bright orange construction fencing adjacent to the HealthAlliance hospital.

The knockout attraction is the 1890s marble statue of a fireman, erected by the community in remembrance of fire chief George Weber. He sports a handlebar mustache, carries a trumpet and leans on a hydrant. Black lichen are slowly darkening his right side.

Another gravestone, bearing the name Roberti, consists of a masterfully carved anchor, complete with twining stone rope.

The profusion of carved stone angels,

dynamic, minimalist art could be appreciated even at a speed of 70 m.p.h.

The top-tier collection includes works by Isamu Noguchi, Henry Moore, Alexander Calder, David Smith, Louise Bourgeois, Alice Aycock, Alexander Lieberman, Grace Knowlton and dozens of other artists. The work is sensitively sited amid the fields, woods and hilltops. Later additions include an earthworks by Maya Lin and Andy Goldworthy’s snaking stone wall, which rises and sinks below the earth, winding around tree trunks. The pieces serve as directional signals, animating the

space. The frame is three-dimensional, navigated via muscle power. To physically engage in the mental mediation demanded by each work of art is an exhilarating, if taxing experience.

Storm King’s 500 acres represent the alpha of the outdoor art experience, of sculpture gloriously freed not only of the gallery but of the urban grid, of corporate plazas and genteel parks.

Other noteworthy sites are the Donald M. Kendall Sculpture Gardens at PepsiCo headquarters in Purchase, whose 45 sculptures include pieces by Moore, Arnaldo Pomodoro, Barbara Hepworth and David Smith. The works relate in interesting ways to the central ziggurat of the large corporate office building.

The Fields, a lively sculpture park in Ghent, last year displayed works by Angela Bulloch, Dove Bradshaw, Matt Wedel, Tony Tasset and others on its 60 acres.

Empire State Plaza, the state government center in Albany, displays Modernist pieces from the blue-chip collection of the late governor Nelson Rockefeller on the plaza. Dozens of large paintings from the 1960s are displayed in the low-ceiled underground concourse.

For fine examples of 1930s Social Realism, visit the post office in Poughkeepsie, which is decorated with murals by Charles Rosen and Georgina Klitgaard, both Woodstock-based artists. Across the street, in the Poughkeepsie Journal building, is a stunning stairwell mural by Andrew Karoly and Louis Szanto, tracing the progress of print from medieval scribes to newsmen interviewing Franklin Roosevelt.

Other feasts for the eye he Hudson Valley is also home to stunning, world-class outdoor sculpture parks. Driving north on the Thruway, just past the Newburgh exit there’s a glimpse of green rolling hills studded with several monumental industrial steel-beam sculptures. In the mid-1970s, the five sculptures by Mark di Suvero, among the world’s largest contemporary art pieces, were placed on these south-facing fields of the newly formed Storm King Art Center. The vista has enchanted motorists, a spectacle whose sweeping natural grandeur and

T

Kids’ Camps and education MOUNTAIN LAUREL WALDORF SCHOOL Inspired Learning OPEN HOUSE — APRIL 21ST 10 AM - 12 NOON Kindergarten through Eight Grade Parent/Child, Nursery School Tours Available by Appointment SESSION DATES: Monday - Thursday: June 18 - 21, June 25 - 28, July 9 - 12, July 16 - 19 Ages 3 - 9 Outdoor Fun • Water Play • Crafts Stories • Songs • Games Water Play • Organic Snacks

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muses, including a triptych of contemplative women topping the massive Hutton monument. Strewn at their feet are several bricks, produced at the family’s brickyard, urns, some veiled in cloth, atop columns,

New Genesis Productions SUMMER YOUTH THEATRE Shakespeare Intensive Camp Little Globe Outdoor Stage, West Shokan

April - June, 2018 • 29

22nd Annual YMCA Kid’s Classic Please join us on Saturday, April 21st Ăƚ ŝĞƚnj ^ƚĂĚŝƵŵ ĨŽƌ Ă ĚĂLJ ĮůůĞĚ ǁŝƚŚ ĨƵŶ ĨŽƌ ƚŚĞ ǁŚŽůĞ ĨĂŵŝůLJ͊ ZĞŐŝƐƚƌĂƟŽŶ ŝƐ NOW ŽƉĞŶ͊ ǁǁǁ͘LJŵĐĂƵůƐƚĞƌ͘ŽƌŐ ƌƵŶŶŝŶŐ ĞǀĞŶƚ ǁŚĞƌĞ ĞǀĞƌLJ ŬŝĚ ŝƐ Ă ǁŝŶŶĞƌ ✦ ǀĞƌLJ ĐŚŝůĚ ƉƌĞͲƌĞŐŝƐƚĞƌĞĚ ďLJ ϯͬϯϭ ƌĞĐĞŝǀĞƐ Ă ƚͲƐŚŝƌƚ ✦

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· Exploration of Expanded Media · Robotics · Theatre SPORTS CAMPS · Equestrian – English & Western · Swimming Alfred University Office of Summer Programs 607-871-2612 Email: summerpro@alfred.edu

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Kids’ Camps and education

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obelisks, and the like. These express the importance of funerals to the Victorians and their opulence. The cemetery imagery also has modern updates: gravestones bear not only reliefs of hearts, crosses and flowers, but also cars, a speedboat and a deer, reflecting the deceased’s personal interests.

Obviously, art frequently collides with history in Kingston. It’s also totally of the moment. Witness the “Paint the Town Yel-

Antiques Regions hold onto their history in private homes as well as in museums. Through myriad antique stores, auction houses and yard sales, furniture that embodies the area’s history from the Dutch period to the heyday of the Catskills hotels finds its way into the households of newer transplants. Every piece contains a history lesson to match those found in local history books. Thse books range from the most community-specific to the vast regional histories of Alf Evers and Vern Benjamin.

At area antique shops you might find a table with the typical “New York leg,� featuring a smooth, ovoid shape with narrow rings and rectangular blocks above and below, characteristic of 17th- and 18th-century Dutch woodwork. Bentwood chairs with Art-Nouveau lines were common in Catskills hotels during early the 1900s. Iron bedsteads, arts-and-crafts bungalow furniture, metal lawn chairs and period fabrics have a nostalgic appeal to baby boomers who visited the resorts in the 1960s, when the old furnishings were still in place.

Specialties of the region include products of Woodstock’s Byrdcliffe arts colony, which made handcrafted furniture, pottery, textiles, prints, photography and paintings. Woodstock also hosted generations of painters. The works of the more famous of our Hudson River School artists can occasionally be found.

For those on a budget, yard sales are abundant on weekends starting mid-May. Sharp-eyed shoppers can find furniture, china, glassware, farm implements and other treasures that have been cleared out of attics and old barns. With mid-century modernism all the rage now, there are plenty of deals for things older. What a pleasure to rescue a bit of history and give it a new home!

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low” display in the YMCA lobby, part of a community project spearheaded by artist Riley Johndonnell to rally people around the color yellow in celebration of International Happiness Day on March 20.

Johndonnell, whose display includes two rocking chairs painted his special shade of Pantene yellow, distributes blank yellow disks to individuals to paint their version of a flower; a group of the painted flower disksare clustered near the Y entrance (a couple of years back, a cluster graced the lawn at the city hall. Johndonnell and others involved in forming the city’s Midtown Arts District are reaching out to engage the local community in art-making, public art by the public.

April - June, 2018 • 31

Great Summer Programs for Kids of All Ages

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Woodstock Tennis Club Summer Camp for Kids The WTC Summer Camp encourages players ages 5-16 years old, ŽĨ Ăůů ĂďŝůŝƟĞƐ͕ ƚŽ ůĞĂƌŶ ƉƌŽƉĞƌ ƚĞŶŶŝƐ ƚĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞ͕ ŚĂǀĞ ĨƵŶ ĂŶĚ ďĞ ĂďůĞ ƚŽ ƉůĂLJ ƚŚĞ ŐĂŵĞ ǁŝƚŚ ƉƌŽƉĞƌ ƐĐŽƌŝŶŐ ĂŶĚ ƐƚƌĂƚĞŐLJ͘ ĂŵƉ ƐƚĂƌƚƐ :ƵůLJ ϮŶĚ ĂŶĚ ƌƵŶƐ ĨƌŽŵ DŽŶĚĂLJ ƚŽ dŚƵƌƐĚĂLJ͕ Ăůů ƐƵŵŵĞƌ ůŽŶŐ͕ ĨƌŽŵ ϭϭ͗ϬϬ Ăŵ ƚŽ Ϯ͗ϬϬ Ɖŵ͘ ŽƐƚ ƉĞƌ ĐŚŝůĚ ŝƐ ΨϲϬ ƉĞƌ ĚĂLJ Žƌ ΨϮϮϬ ĨŽƌ ƚŚĞ ͞ǁĞĞŬ͘͟

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SAUGERTIES SUMMER RECREATION PROGRAM Looking for a fun, active, alternative to child care this summer?

The Saugerties Summer Recreation Program is your answer. We offer both half day (9-12) programs and full day (9-3) programs at the Cantine Veteran’s Memorial Complex for grades Pre-K through 8. Daily activities include but are not limited to: age appropriate Arts and Crafts, Sports Instruction, Nature Studies, playground activities and weekly field trips. Your child will be active outdoors most of the day under the direction of qualified, responsible counselors. Registration forms are available at Saugerties Town Hall, Kiwanis Ice Arena and online at www.saugerties.ny.us. Visit our Facebook page, Saugerties Summer Recreation, for more information. The cost of the program is as follows: Pre-Registration: Full Day 1 2 3 4+ Child Children Children Children Rate: $520 $935 $1,355 $1,770

Pre-Registration: Half Day 1 2 3 4+ Child Children Children Children Rate: $320 $580 $835 $1,100

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On-Site Registration: Half Day 1 2 3 4+ Child Children Children Children Rate: $350 $635 $925 $1,210

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On campus again The valley’s rich with academic splendor

By Ann Hutton

W

e live in a college-rich valley with no fewer than seven of them within shouting distance from Kingston. Well, a journalistic exaggeration, yes. But we pass them daily, these institutions of higher learning, perhaps not thinking much about what’s going on there. Or we assume the goings-on are geared strictly toward student activities.

If so, we’re quietly missing out on captivating performances, fascinating and informative lectures, and a rich plethora of musical, visual, and literary arts events, all open to the general public for little or no cost. So, here’s a smattering, a brief survey of things to do at a college campus near you...

At Bard College in Annandale-OnHudson: There are some campuses that invite a simple stroll to behold the architecture, the atmosphere, and ambience.

Bard College sits on the Dutchess County side of the river on an out-of-the-way piece of property north of Rhinecliff.

A permanent sculptural environment, created by the artist Olafur Eliasson and

COURTESY OF VASSAR COLLEGE

Vassar College in Poughkeepsie, whose campus and grounds were designed by the firm of Frederick Law Olmsted, features one of the Hudson Valley’s key art collections. referred to as “the parliament of reality,” is a walk-through experience just across the street from another modern marvel, the Richard B. Fisher Center for the Performing Arts, designed by Frank Gehry.

Upcoming highlights include Stravinsky’s The Rite of Spring on April 14-15, Tony Kushner on Leonard Bernstein on April 20, a Malcolm Gladwell event for a live podcast with Susan Orlean and Sarah

a range of options. Most communities have free daytime recreation programs for the children of residents, providing crafts, swimming and other group activities. More elaborate, reasonably priced day programs are offered by the week, featuring such choices as arts and crafts, singing, fishing, swimming, basketball, volleyball, archery and ropes courses, as well as live action role-playing (an active form of Dungeons and Dragons).

Sleepaway camps give kids the ultimate country experience, immersing them in the beauty of the mountains, with plenty of sports, games and entertainment to

keep them busy. Some programs also offer horseback riding, rock climbing, canoeing and primitive skills.

Younger children might want to start their camp experience with a day program and proceed to overnight stays by age twelve. Look for a camp that is congruent with your personal philosophy, and make sure to communicate with staff about your child’s needs. Whether you’re looking forward to a break from parenting or are apprehensive about letting go of your child for a chunk of the summer, camp is a maturing experience for both parents and kids.

Camps

S

ummer camp is the source of memories, fond and otherwise, for millions of Americans who hiked, swam and sang Kumbayah around the campfire with other kids who sometimes became lifelong friends. The Hudson Valley has a long history of summer facilities for kids, from the Jewish camp on Yankeetown Pond attended by the Marx brothers, to Camp Woodland near Phoenicia, where Pete Seeger initiated city kids into the joys of folk music in the 1940s.

The mountains still furnish camp experiences for kids each summer, with

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COURTESY OF BARD COLLEGE

Stunning architecture, such as Frank Gehry’s soaring Fisher Center at Bard, is one of the many attributes that draw local residents to Hudson Valley campuses.

Thyre on April 28, Suzanne Bocanegra’s My Life as an Artist lecture with Anne Gridley, Frances McDormand, and Lili Taylor on May 5, Requiem for Anna Politkovskaya on May 18-20, and many others.

Public tours of the Fisher Center’s Sosnoff Theater are conducted on weekdays from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

The Center for Curatorial Studies at Bard currently exhibits projects curated by second-year students in the graduate program in curatorial studies and contemporary art, running through May 27. Also, on view in the Teaching Gallery, Warhol: Unidentified presents 83 photographs

by Andy Warhol whose subjects are currently unidentified. This is a part of a collection of 28,700 photographs being shown in a collaboration of five Hudson Valley university art museums in 2018.

And the Hessel Museum of Art houses the Marieluise Hessel Collection of more than 2,000 contemporary works. Museum hours are Thursday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Admission is free.

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At Marist College in Poughkeepsie: Open through May, the Marist College Art Gallery located in the Steel Plant Studios exhibits contemporary regional artists working in all media. Hours during exhibitions are noon to 5 p.m., Monday through Saturday. The Marist Institute for Public Opinion Speakers’ Series hosts “1968: The Year that Rocked American Politics” with documentarian Lynn Novick (of The Vietnam War with Ken Burns fame) on April 19, and journalist Jeff Greenfield, speechwriter to Robert F. Kennedy and author of If Kennedy Lived: The First and Second Terms of President John F.

includes Harmony on the Hudson, April 28 and 28, at Marriott Pavilion Ecolab Auditorium at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. On May 5 at

Kennedy: An Alternate History on April 26, both events in the Hancock Center at 5 p.m. (Free, but registration is required.)

The Spring 2018 Concert Series at Marist

290 Wall St. Uptown Kingston • 845-331-1888 • schneidersjewelers.com

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Destinations STORMVILLE AIRPORT FLEA MARKET FLEA MARKET April 28 & 29 • May 26 & 27 June 30 & July 1 Sept. 1 & 2 • Oct. 6 & 7 Nov. 3 & 4 8 am - 4 pm Rain or Shine

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7 p.m. in the Nelly Goletti Theatre, the Annual A Cappella Final Concert features The Lovely Sirens and Time Check. Also, watch for scheduling for Marist’s Annual Gaming Conference and the Mid-Hudson Business Plan Competition, both open to the public.

At Vassar in Poughkeepsie: Another architectural delight, the Olmsted-designed Vassar campus comprises over 100 buildings in styles ranging from modernist to gothic on 1,000 acres of walkable lawns, meadows, and woodlands of the Vassar Farm. The Main Building, designed by James Renwick Jr., and the Maria Mitchell Observatory are both National Historic Landmarks.

The Frances Lehman Loeb Art Center houses a collection of over 20,000 works from ancient Egypt to present-day America, including an extensive collection of works from the Hudson River School. The exhibit, Master Class: Northern European Art 1500-1700 from the Permanent Collection, will be on view April 27 through September 2, opening with a panel discussion on Friday, April 27 at 4:30 p.m. in Taylor Hall, followed by a reception in

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the Art Center. These events are free and open to the public.

An ambitious work of performance art runs April 19 through May 4, when Los Angeles-based artist Tim Youd situates himself at various spots on campus to retype Mary McCarthy’s novel, The Group.

A part of an ongoing project titled 100 Novels, this will be Youd’s 56th in the series; the completed diptychs will be presented in the Art Center in the fall.

And there’s still time to catch the commemorative Tearing Down Walls And Building Bridges: Commemorating the Life and Legacy of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. on Saturday, April 14 at 9 a.m. in the College Center Old Bookstore Exhibition Space.

The 2018 Powerhouse Theater season at Vassar will run from June 22 through July 29. A collaboration between Vassar College and New York Stage and Film, the Theater focuses on producing plays, musical workshops, and readings of works-in-progress each summer. Check the website for season announcements,

casting, and performance schedules; make reservations as early as possible.

At Mount St. Mary College in Newburgh: Lifelong learning opportunities are being offered on many college campuses these days, all aimed to engage adult learners. The Desmond Campus of Mount St. Mary College in Balmville, north of Newburgh, is dedicated to offering non-credit adult education courses

in a wide variety of subjects. Offered on a year-round basis, classes include art, yoga and tai chi, along with organized bus trips to arts events or historical sites.

Currently, “Art from the Heart & Kidney,” a free mixed media exhibit, features the works of Yeaple-King, including paintings, flower arrangements, and jewelry.

The show runs through April 18.

The Desmond Speaker Series offers a range of subjects, such as “Fake News:

for spring leisure

Destinations ULSTER COUNTY NEW YORK

EVENTS April 28

Spring Celebration Sip your way across an 80-mile wine trail.

May 5

Opening Day

Get lost in a sprawling apple orchard.

Meditate on a mountaintop.

May 5

June 17

“Sex and the City: The Early Years” with Bill Greer

Perfect your golf swing.

Family Day: Free Admission

Find your bliss.

Explore an art colony.

Cruise the Hudson.

huguenotstreet.org

SEEK FOR YOURSELF.

(845) 255-1889

ulstercountyalive.com

More events and information at

88 Huguenot St., New Paltz, NY

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Destinations PHOTOS: JOHN SUHAR

JOHNSUHAR.COM | @JTSUHAR

INFO@BARNONTHEPOND.COM

845 247 3982

GOMEZ MILL HOUSE Celebrating Over 300 Hundred Years of American History

April 15th - November 11th Open Wednesday through Sunday

Guided Tours at 10:30, 1:15 and 2:45

DARD HUNTER MILL

11 Mill House Road, Marlboro, NY 845.236.3126 gomez.org

Sorting Truth from Fiction” on April 16 at 10 a.m. Learners can delve into marketing in the digital world with “Social Media Marketing Made Simple: A Crash Course in Design, Digital Marketing and Content Optimizations” on Saturday, May 12 from 8:30 to 11 a.m. This $99 class is taught by Andrew Ciccone, president and CEO of Hudson Valley Public Relations.

At SUNY New Paltz: The College Terrace will be abuzz with more of Andy Warhol, when five museum curators involved in the Warhol x 5 Collaboration will speak on their approaches to exhibiting Warhol’s work, followed by a discussion. Morning panel: The Warhol x 5 Collaboration begins on Friday, April 13 at 10 a.m. Marking Time exhibition will be on view at the Dorsky Museum, and after the lunch break, a panel of three curators will speak on New Approaches to Exhibiting Warhol and his World from 2 to 4 p.m. Reception to follow symposium.

On Tuesday, April 17 from 5 to 6:30 p.m., Contested Memory: Global Monuments, Memorials, and the Making of History, a panel of speakers will discuss how communities use memorials to create identity, demarcate belonging, perform citizenship, and produce social power across a wide range of geographical regions and historical periods, including Ancient Rome, Buddhist India, postwar Germany, the Jim Crow South, and contemporary New Paltz.

The Department of Music Presents Living Letters on Saturday, April 20 at 7 p.m. in The Dorsky Museum. Recorded audio letters made by the father of faculty member Bob Lumoski while he was stationed at Camp Casey in South Korea from 1966-1967, this work for live sequenced computer and reel-to-reel tape explores the nature of personal communication, physical separation, and routine in the pre-internet era. The Concert Series at

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COURTESY OF MT. SAINT MARY

Mount St. Mary College in Newburgh looks particularly resplendent each spring.

New Paltz runs through May 9 includes chamber music, baroque, choral concerts, chamber jazz ensembles, and others, all held in Studley Theatre and Shepard Recital Hall.

And just in time for spring-the Biology Department’s Coykendall Greenhouse is open to the public on Fridays until May 11, from 1 to 3 p.m. Gardeners and plant aficionados can dream about this year’s landscaping plans and take home a few good ideas.

At our local community colleges: They might be smaller and newer than all those long-established ivied halls, but community colleges fill an important role in continuing education in New York by providing workforce training, personal and professional enrichment programs, and ESL classes to adults and children in the region. Our Community Colleges offer vibrant classes in history, foreign languages, photography, painting and

Spring fishing!

F

or years, spring in the Catskills was all about trout fishing, which used to start the evening of March 31 with a classic dinner of literary flyfishermen and women at the heralded Antrim Lodge down in the old river town of Roscoe, near a place called the Junction Pool said to have once hosted a two-headed trout. The spring months were filled with the sight of fishing folk in waders midstream, endlessly casting, occasionally catching, and (almost always) releasing, except for those moments when a special dinner or breakfast was called for.

Although trout fishing isn’t as popular in the area as it once was, it’s still a significant part of the region’s heritage, hosting its own specialty stores and events, including classes on how to tie flies, as well as how to cast them effectively.

The state Department of Environmental Conservation, which oversees permits for the sport, as well as the New York City Department of Environmental Protection, which oversees many favorite trout streams, are quick to encourage greater involvement in this great area of fun these days. They have tips on where to find the best trout, including ways to access the region’s great reservoirs for sport.

The spring season is also a great time for Hudson River bass fishing, coincident with the great sport fish’s annual migrations upriver. Some say bass fishing is no substitute for the great shad fishing that used to be a major part of spring along the river. But at least it’s a way of staying on the river, casting lines and enjoying the views until the shad populations can be restored.

April - June, 2018 • 37

drawing, dancing, sailing, dog training, and creative writing.

At SUNY Ulster in Stone Ridge, for example, the Muroff Kotler Visual Arts Gallery exhibits student and outside artists’ work. Currently a Student Works exhibit is being mounted with an opening reception on Wednesday, April 25 from noon to 2 p.m. This annual exhibition will bring together the creative work of students in the Visual Art, Design and Fashion Design programs for a lively interaction of diverse media. Regular gallery hours are Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

On the two campuses of Orange County Community College (one in Middletown and one in Newburgh), the extensive lineup of events includes: Transformation: Plastic Bags become Art masterclass with Mary Ann Lomonaco on Monday, April 16 from 3:30 to 5:45 p.m.; Invasive Mosquitos, Emergent Pathogens and Human Risk in the Eastern US, a lecture by Shannon LaDeau on Tuesday, April 17 at 7 p.m.; Creating a Rhythm in your Kitchen: Culinary Nutrition demo and lecture by Holly Shelowitz, on Wednesday, April 18 at 7 p.m.; The Elements of Jazz...Putting it All Together master class with the Chris Parker Band on Friday, April 20 from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m.; Hamlet by Shakespeare performed by Hudson Valley Shakespeare Festival on Saturday April 21 at 7:30 p.m. (admission charged); Merle Louise: Life on Broadway — an Interview on Monday April 23 at 7 p.m.; and the Middletown Art Group 2018 Members’ Spring Exhibition in the Orange Hall Gallery from May 7 through June 13. A reception will be held on Sunday, May 20 from 1 to 3:30 p.m.

Also at the Orange Gallery Loft, Pastels and Oils by Dennis Fanton will be exhibited from May 4 through June 13. Whew!

Get into the habit of checking your local college campus website for the current events. Events calendars are typically marked with “open to the public” and many scheduled talks and performances are free. Some-- Vassar, SUNY OCCC, and SUNY New Paltz, for example-- have observatories where community members can get in touch with the planets and stars on clear nights. One-SUNY Ulster-hosts a motorcycle driving course with the DMV certified Motorcycle Safety School. Many colleges run lifelong learning programs, and all feature pertinent speakers on a variety of issues. You never know what you might learn.

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The perfect dinner party It’s time to start eating fresh again

By Jennifer Brizzi t’s been touch and go all day whether the weather would cooperate for eating outside tonight. It had rained for a while this morning and you’d set the table in the dining room, but then the sun had come out and burned the moisture off the spring flowers and trees’ tiny leaves, so you’d tidied up the patio a bit in hopes of fine evening weather. Then it had turned chilly and cloudy again. After a long, cold, snowy winter, you are really hoping for an outdoor dinner party on the gorgeous patio dining set you’d found super cheap at the end of last summer.

Now, as you nibble on a piece of Jacüterie’s savory saucisson sec that you’ve been slicing for an appetizer, it looks like your PUBLIC DOMAIN PHOTO outdoor party will happen after all. You Flank steak doesn’t need to come from out West any more. An increasing request of your significant other to set the number of local farmers have taken to producing goods for a regional table for six and bring the speaker outside market.

Cheese, a semi-soft torched and put on some Jimmy Cliff. rind variety called Rascal.

As you finish up the dinner You’ve marinated some local preparations, your stomach asparagus and that’s there tightens in anticipation. And too, along with some succua bit of hunger. lent chunks of Hookline Fish According to late food writCompany’s alder-smoked er MFK Fisher, six is the ideal salmon, your favorite cut, number for a dinner party, from the collar. for the liveliest conversation Just as you tote the platter and the jolliest time. A couple outside, Robin and Pat arrive, who is coming are your very Steve in tow, and hugs and dear old friends Robin and handshakes are exchanged.

Pat, and an evening spent Your S.O. pours beers for in their company is always everyone, refreshing drafts of a joy. Another guest, Steve, From the Ground Brewery’s you don’t know well and look Farmhouse Red Ale, most of forward to getting to know PUBLIC DOMAIN PHOTO the barley locally grown on better, and the last, Valerie, There’s nothing like a flan made from local ingredients to Migliorelli Farm and the hops is a great friend you haven’t end a locavore meal. from New York State. seen in three or four years.

As the day ends, the sky is cloudless and You work on finishing the assembly of the salami, with its hints of nutmeg and a warm hint-of-summer breeze caresses the appetizer platter. Besides slices of white pepper, there are cubes of McGrath

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Wheat berries in a locally-sourced pilaf are a grand addition to any repast.

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and pepper (neither local) and a bit of lemon zest (not local either!).

On the side is a chewy hard red wheat berry pilaf made from grains from Wild Hive Farm and some locally foraged fiddleheads, simply sautéed and seasoned, to avoid masking their unique, delicate, ephemeral flavor.

A salad features local greens: dandelion leaves, puntarelle, baby looseleaf lettuce leaves, microgreens and pea shoots. The dressing is made from Hudson Valley Cold Pressed Oil’s sunflower oil and cider honey vinegar from Our Lady of the Resurrection Monastery. There is fine crusty bread from Our Daily Bread in Chatham to soak up the last drops of dressing.

The locavore commitment continues with the wine, a Cabernet Franc from Whitecliff Vineyards in Gardiner. As it is poured, Valerie drives up and jumps out of her little truck, making a grand and noisy entrance and full of apologies for being late. You don’t care, you’re just glad to see her after all this time. At least she won’t miss your dessert, a rich custardy flan made from eggs you got from Sawkill Farm when you picked up the skirt steaks. ***

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Fiddlehead ferns, along with wild garlicky ramps, are one of the treasures of early spring cuisine on the Hudson Valley and Catskills. everyone. As you all catch up and nibble the appies, you glance at your phone and see a text from Valerie saying something came up and she’ll be late, no reason nor ETA offered. This is typical of her, as you recall, but you can’t help feeling disappointed.

A little while later it’s time to eat and

everyone helps bring out the meal. There is still no sign of Valerie and you hope she isn’t going to totally flake.

The centerpiece of the meal is grass fed and finished tender skirt steaks from Sawkill Farm, gilded with melting herb butter made with the spring’s first herbs: chives, parsley and thyme, along with salt

Good sources for local products include our municipal farmers markets, as well as Adams Fairacre Farm’s four locations (www.adamsfairacrefarms.com)and Mother Earth’s Storehouse’s three (www. motherearthstorehouse.com). Jacüterie charcuterie is available at the Millerton and Rhinebeck farmers markets (www. millertonfarmersmarket.org/ and www. rhinebeckfarmersmarket.com/), as well as at Herondale Farm in Ancramdale where it is made. McGrath cheese is currently available at farmers markets in Westchester County, but we hope it will be more widely available soon. Hookline’s smoked salmon is available from their retail shop on Rt. 28 in Kingston and several other locations (www.hooklinefish.com).

Sawkill Farm has a retail shop as well at 7782 Albany Post Road in Red Hook and also offers natural pork, lamb and chicken (sawkillfarm.squarespace.com/).

Wild Hive Farms grains and flours are available at Quattro’s Farm Store at 2251 US-44, Pleasant Valley. Our Daily Bread baguettes are available at the Chatham bakery and at the Rhinebeck Farmers Market.

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Househunting is fun!

Looking for a home draws locals and Brooklynites alike City that it has been for more than two centuries.

Ulster County 2017 home here was a time sales in Ulster County inwhen the Hudson creased almost 20 percent over Valley was seen what they were a few years primarily as a vaearlier. Columbia County saw cation destination for many a 45 percent increase during residents of New York City’s the same period. Attracted to five boroughs. In my case, our places like Woodstock, Kingsfamily left the city altogether ton and Hudson, Brooklynites for greener pastures when I in particular are finding what was five. My parents fell in they’re seeking in relocation love with Dutchess County and weekend opportunities. and a few years later, discovAs gentrification changes the ered Kingston. After spendface of many city neighboring their whole lives around hoods, and continues to price 187th street in the Bronx, they native New Yorkers out of the sought a different lifestyle for city, so too has an influx of their kids, and we’ve been Manhattan and Brooklyn resihere for almost forty years. dents changed many towns in Back in those days, there our area. From quaint hamlets were many drastic differences in Westchester and Rockland between the fast-paced city to villages closer to home like and the ultra-tranquility of Rhinebeck and Hudson, we its northern counties, more are seeing a growth in dining so than today. In my case, the options, a greater presence of disparity was too vast and as artists and musicians, and insoon as I could, I went back creased opportunities for buyto the city, living and working PUBLIC DOMAIN PHOTOS ing and selling of real estate. in Manhattan, coming back to In an article posted on brookUlster County to visit and catch Top, a Brooklyn streetscape. As downstate real estate has grown more expensive, Hudson Valley homes have lynbased.com, the author, up with family and friends.

Regina Mogilevskaya, speaks These days the Hudson Valley provided an attractive alternative; above, this Kingston to several Brooklynites who is now a long-term destination block was identified by one New York City broker’s made the move to the Hudson for families leaving the bor- site as being Uptown. It actually portrays 1970s urban Valley. They’ve come to towns oughs for a permanent change redevelopment in the Rondout. like Germantown, West Kill, in lifestyle. Stephen Cerini, Kerhonskon, and Kingston. They’ve done theaters, and recreational activities, which a broker at Weichert Realtors in Lake it for various reasons, including business is a shift from the previous standard of Katrine, says the Hudson Valley is more opportunities, proximity to family, and weekenders seeking isolation. This has a seller’s market. The available inventory some just wanting their daily lives to made the market even stronger around is low, which has created the potential for resemble their vacations and weekends a those areas.” bidding wars. Homes are selling faster little bit more. The cost of life in Brooklyn Increased Hudson Valley prices don’t than in previous years and the prices are became too much. The Hudson Valley scare New York City residents away. climbing moderately. offers a slight respite from the exorbitant Whether seeking isolation and tranquility “There has also been the creation of price tags, without sacrificing proximity or looking for amenities, they are continuseveral hot spots in the Hudson Valley that to the big city. ing their country excursions, which often seem to be more favored by weekenders With major Hudson Valley developextend beyond weekends. The Hudson in the past year,” said Cerini. “These hotment projects like Silo Ridge Field Club, Valley continues to be the escape from the spot markets tend to be centered on parka gated community and golf resort in busy streets and hustle-bustle of New York and-walk villages with shops, restaurants,

By Vinnie Manginelli

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Amenia (Dutchess County), Resorts World Catskill, a casino hotel recently opened in Monticello (Sullivan County), and LEGOLAND New York slated to open in Goshen (Orange County) in 2020, Brooklynites are coming for the change in lifestyle, and they are being pleasantly surprised by what they’re discovering.

It is not only city residents, however, who are seeking a different lifestyle or change in scenery. Current Hudson Valley residents are also seeking new areas in neighboring counties. One local couple recently renting in the Village of Saugerties wanted a place to truly call their own. Kim and Dan began the process in November, a bold choice, timewise, with the busy holidayseason upon them.

However, according to a November 2017 article posted on Realtor.com, there are some true advantages to house-hunting during the holiday season. With less competition from other home-buyers, realtors are more accessible and sellers more motivated to sell.

I asked the couple to share the ups

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and downs of their first home-buying experience. After starting the search in November, by late January they had found the home they wanted in Athens and closed on it on March 16. The real estate professional helped with scheduling viewings on the houses that Kim and Dan found on Zillow, and helped find the inspector, lender, and lawyers needed.

He also assisted with the paperwork and making an offer.

Kim says, “The most helpful thing was having him there to answer any and all of our questions.” She added, “We found the house quickly. We had only been looking for about two months.

Once we got our loan situated, the process was smooth and quick. Both our lender and our realtor were great!

They were quick to answer questions and were available on weekends, which was important for us.”

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Brooklynites moving to the Hudson Valley are also finding much of the information needed online and then seeking out a real estate professional to help with the home-buying process. As in most aspects of 21st century life, technology will play an ever-increasing role in the real estate business. But, after speaking withvarious industry professionals, the ideal way to buy a new home continues to be by visiting open houses and seeing any

Explore Hudson Valley

properties of potential interest in person.

It’s highly recommended that potential home-buyers not just rely on the visual representations online.

Unlike my move back to the city years after growing up here, current implants are finding life in the Hudson Valley is just what they hoped for. Urban revitalization in cities like Poughkeepsie, Kingston, Hudson, Beacon, and Newburgh are providing modern housing options along

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the Hudson River, close to Metro North train stations. Within these towns, interests that I sought when I moved back to Manhattan are now growing and changing the vibe of these neighborhoods. Art galleries, music venues, and book stores are more in demand. Just visit uptown Kingston and you’ll find several options of each.

As home prices rise, so too does the experience of living in the Hudson Valley.

For me, nothing came close to living and working in the city. Even now, getting off that Metro North train at Grand Central, knowing I’m in the heart of Manhattan is the best feeling I could hope for. Young adults, with growing families need more though. They need schools and safety, back yards and ball fields.

There will always be debate on whether the changes experienced in the five boroughs is good for our Hudson Valley cities and towns. Increased profits recognized by residents selling their homes can’t be a bad thing. A new environment growing within our counties is refreshing and welcoming. And an increased sense of diversity is much needed in these trying political times. The more we can do to

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bring people of varying demographics together can only help us going forward, bucking the trend being promoted from the White House.

Current and former residents will say they got priced out of their apartments in these same Hudson Valley cities. But it’s a big region. Kim and Dan left Saugerties for

Athens, Ulster County for Greene County, an apartment in the village for a house in the woods. We’re all individuals seeking our little spot in society. And there’s room for all of us. We just have to expect change, welcome it, and adapt when it changes again. Such is life in the big city, and now in our considerably smaller ones too.

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Some of Amrica’s first big wineries were in the Hudson Valley. In recent years, local vineyards have striven to serve the increasing sophistication of the larger wine market.

Quench those thirsts!

A roundup of Hudson Valley beer, ciders and spirits

By Chris Rowley e are seeing a veritable explosion of new beverage makers in the Hudson Valley,” said Elizabeth Ryan, who operates a number of farms, orchards and now cideries on both sides of the Hudson River. “It’s a renaissance, really, as the region is in the process of defining itself as a food and beverage center.”

“W

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With the surging numbers of craft brewers, distillers, wineries and cideries come new terms for flavors mingling with old ones reborn, like rye whiskey, natural wine-making, or Session IPA. It’s all part of a transformation of the alcoholic beverage market in this country, with many regions leading the wave.

Thirty years ago the term microbrew was just beginning to break the media surface in a land still utterly dominated by bland lager brews from gigantic brewing companies. In wine, the revolution had

begun earlier in California, and spread to Australia, Chile and New Zealand while still in its infancy in the Hudson Valley.

In distilled spirits, the long decline of brown goods continued. Image-laden, ultra-refined vodkas were shaking up the market. The first hints of the mixology revolution were showing up in high-end bars in London and New York. However, craft distilling was still unheard of.

In New York State, there were barriers to both farm breweries and cideries. The old manacles of the Prohibition era, now more than 80 years in the past, were still clanking around Albany.

By 1995, things were getting interesting.

The big brewers had been using Portland, Oregon as a test bed for new kinds of brews for some time, aware that tastes were changing. In 1995, Miller Brewing set up a division called “American Specialty and Craft Beer Company.” That solidified the change from “micro-brew” to “craft beer.”

The following year the laborioussounding “National Microbrewers and Pubbrewers Conference and Trade Show” became “The Craft Brewers Conference.”

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means the hundreds of craft breweries, brew pubs and most recently farm breweries have sprouted over the region in the past 15 years. The craft-beer revolution has driven up the numbers of American breweries to the highest ever recorded, more than 5300, with astonishing growth rates in recent years.

Of course, this is still a minor aspect of the overall beer market, accounting for just 12% of volume. The growth in volume has slowed from double- to single-digit in recent times, and the industry may indeed even be approaching “maturity,” with a coming shake-out of less successful breweries.

The surest sign of success, though, is the way the giants have bought up smaller brewers and launched their own “masscraft” brews, like Blue Moon from Molson.

Any interesting bar nowadays will have from five to 15 craft beers and ciders on tap. At the Rough Draft Bar & Books in uptown Kingston, where books are on sale along with food and a slew of brews, the brews rotate. Recently Rough Draft had West Kill “Earn Your Keep,” pale

COURTESY OF TUTHILLTOWN SPIRITS

Hudson Valley distilleries have finally recovered from Prohibition days, with a growing number of fine products hitting regional shelves ever since Tuthilltown Spirits, in Gardiner, paved the way.

Also in 1995, the Lobianco family, already running a restaurant elsewhere, bought a property near FDR’s one-time home in Hyde Park and began Hyde Park Brewing, the first brewpub in the Mid-Hudson Valley (Evans Brewing in Albany predated them).

This was the first clarion call here of the coming revolution. Angela Lobianco is still there, with her family, and they have prospered and expanded in recent years to start up Rip Van Winkle brewing further north, in Catskill on the west side of the Hudson.

“It’s been an exciting adventure, for sure,” she said as the evening shift was just getting under way. “You know, we started our research in ‘93, bought the place in ’95, and went at it hard. It’s been remarkable, what we’ve seen and a great experience.

We’re a brother-and-sister team, and in the beginning we did a lot of education, because this was new to people. Now, well, people are so well versed on craft brewing, it’s really nice. People know their stuff now.”

John Eccles, long-time brewmaster at Hyde Park, is just now prepping a Maibach and a Heffeweissen for the spring season, tapping into German roots for his favorite styles, and exhibiting once again how these brewing classics fit into the seasons.

Bocks in the fall, and wheat beers in the spring and summer.

But, of course, the menus of brews available across the valley these days — oh my!

There are simply thousands of beers, some

with reasonably mundane names, such and such IPA, or Pale Ale, and others that play with your mind, while alcohol levels of 7% and 9% promise even more playtime. Those brews have to come from somewhere, of course, and that

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There’s hardly a place left that doesn’t offer an array of craft beers, an increasing number of them now locally made with the help of state incentives. ale, an amber ale with 7.5% alcohol from Hershey, PA, called Toegs “Nugget Nectar,” a nice Porter from Accord’s Arrowood Farms called “Blacksheep,” a monster double IPA from the Bronx called “Gun Hill E Pluribus Lupulin 7: Vox Populi” with a fierce 9.3% alcohol, a Californian Milk Stout, the “Sloop Juice Bomb” IPA from Elizaville, a couple of ciders and a couple of craft Pilsners.

Beer and cider fans have found heaven, and it’s right here in the Hudson Valley.

A younger craft revolution has taken place in distilling. Back in 2005, Tuthill-

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town Distillery in Gardiner was a groundbreaker. Ralph Erenzo, who founded the firm, noted that it was the first new whisky distillery in New York since prohibition.

But Erenzo was on to something, and the wave of new distillers, not just whisky, either, with new-wave gin and vodka, even rum, coming to the fore in recent years, has been spectacular. To go with it, there’s been the mixology revolution, with every shibboleth concerning cocktails tossed into the mixer, blended, shaken with ice and served over a twist of citron.

Name a fruit, an herb, a spice and a spirit, and something amazing can be done with them. Bunsen burners on bars, and the Beverage Alcohol Resource’s “world’s most comprehensive distilled spirits and mixology program” — the five-day program costs $3500 — are part of the new approach to alcoholic beverages, somewhere between chemistry and a doctorate in philosophy.

There are now at least 70 farm distilleries in New York. To qualify, 75% of materials must be produced instate. This sector has

Weddings

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pring is a time for rebirth, as well as flowers and blossoming trees, plus warmth with a hint of coolness still in the breeze. What better time for a wedding!

The Catskills and Hudson Valley are replete with romantic settings that will ensure that the ritual will be memorable.

How about a grand resort? You might seek a hotel on a mountainside with a spectacular view, perhaps atop a sweep-

ing lawn. Or you could wed on the bank of a creek, soothed by the rippling sound of a current, or at the edge of a tranquil lake. Perhaps you’d prefer to tie the knot under a canopy of tall trees, breathing in the fragrance of pine.

Almost every town has at least one old, picturesque church, where the echo of past weddings will inspire your own experience.

If all the details and options are too overwhelming, ask for guidance from a local wedding planner, who will know the advantages and drawbacks of each venue and can help carry out your wishes after getting to know your tastes and personalities. The price is often worth the reduction in stress.

We’ve been to weddings where everyone went barefoot because of the spring mud, and others in old community halls with South Indian-styled percussion parades and potluck receptions. Everywhere, the music just happens. This area is home to many talented musicians, after all, many with recording histories.

If not looking to marry for the first time, how about renewing your vows? After all, spring only comes around once every year.

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Hard cider was once the most common drink throughout the early United States. Now it’s returning with as many varieties as there are types of apples. been jumping in recent years. aconic Distillery on Bowen Road in Stanfordville, Dutchess County opened in 2013. The Coughlins, Paul and Carol Ann, plus their three daughters, had purchased part of a former beef farm in Stanfordville. Renamed Rolling Hills Farm in 2010, it had natural spring water and plenty of fields for growing corn, vital for bourbon whisky. Paul Coughlin, a keen outdoor sportsman and an aficionado for America’s spirit, bourbon whisky, was ready to pursue the dream.

Four years later, Carol Ann Coughlin

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said, “It still feels good. It was a mid-life change and a hobby, and now we’re entering our fourth year in growth mode. We’re growing our sales downstate, and we’re also spreading out to other states — Texas, Tennessee, California among them.”

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Carol Ann, the mixologist, can often be found behind the bar in the tasting room (open most weekends, Saturday noon to 6 p.m, Sunday noon to 5 p.m.) Taconic’s “Dutchess Private Reserve” won best Bourbon from Hudson Valley Magazine and from Maxim magazine.

They also produce a 115-proof “barrelstrength” Bourbon and a Straight Rye said to be exceptionally smooth. Other products include a Double Barrel Bourbon

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Maple Whisky, that offers a hint of maple syrup to the profile, and Rolling Hills Rum, aged in the bourbon barrels to darken and complexify it. Across their labels runs their now-retired American foxhound, Copper, whose name shows up on the cocktail menu, too. Carol Ann Coughlin says that the bourbon still outsells the rye, though rye is coming back into popularity.

Their grains are sourced from local farmers. “We have the limestone spring water, which is similar to that in Kentucky, and those elements create the taste. We use virgin white oak in our barrels, and after one use they are used for the rum.”

Taconic’s experience has been inspiring.

But, they are far from alone, of course.

New craft distilleries come in many different sizes and locations. Hillrock Estate Distillery in Ancram is set up in a restored 1806 Georgian house with a great view of the Berkshires. Here the ethos is farm-toglass, with the grains grown on the estate.

Their malthouse was the first to be built at a distillery here since Prohibition. Current

offering is Hillrock Solera Aged Bourbon.

Denning’s Point Distillery, in Beacon, is a micro which combines grains from the Hudson Valley and the Finger Lakes for its mash. The distillery is proud to employ recycled and reclaimed, already existing equipment. Its Beacon Bourbon won the best-spirit award in 2016, at the Hudson Valley Wine & Spirits Competition.

Hudson Valley Distillers on Route 9 in Clermont, north of Rhinebeck is another new entry. It was founded in 2014 by Chris Moyer, who had retired from being a CPA down in Virginia. Here the focus is less on bourbon and more on gin, vodka and applejack, the latter the most common spirit consumed in Colonial-era taverns.

Today, applejack, aka apple “brandy,” is popular with mixologists and their fans.

(DROP CAP) Somewhat in the same mode of unusual craft beers, are the spirits and liqueurs from Old York Farm Distillery & Cooperage, on State Route 23 in Claverack, about three miles east of Hudson. The cooperage at Old York Farm is interesting. Making your own barrels

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is a skilled task, and Old York uses New York-sourced white oak. One of the owners, Stuart Newsome, is a carpenter with decades of experience who taught himself the art of making barrels. The products include Cacao Maple Vodka, Nasturtium Flower Liqueur, Thai Basil Liqueur, and of

course Rhubarb and Honey Vodka.

To be released this spring is Black Walnut Bourbon, bourbon aged in oak barrels and then blended with black walnut syrup from their own trees. Black walnut syrup is definitely a new thing, rising up the charts of interesting sweeteners. It’s

an example of the creativity now boiling through the craft distilling sector.

We have to talk of cider, that is, “hard” cider, alcoholic cider, not the sweet brown stuff Americans call cider. A strange development, courtesy of Prohibition, what else? Rural America drank hard cider for

of local ales and ciders, cocktail ingredients and even wines featured in top bars and eateries?

Spring’s a perfect time to catch what’s literally up-and-coming in the region. Fresh ingredients dominate menus, from ramps, wild asparagus and fiddleheads, along with the first lettuces and microgreens, alongside free-range eggs, grass-fed beef,

wild trout, goat cheese, maple syrup, honey and other locally sourced foods.

New cooks are playing with all that’s on hand, coming up with yummy new takes on old standards and some fresh methods for cooking, from file-cabinet meat smokers to sun-dried variations on everything one can imagine.

Eating-out options still run the gamut from pizzerias and diners to steakhouses, ethnic cuisine and vegan food. The old havens of vacationing French, German, Italian and other top New York City chefs may have disappeared, and Culinary Institute of America educated chefs may have moved on to other frontiers beyond the Hudson Valley. Many contend we’re only now entering a new cooking Golden Age in the area.

Where to go, and how to find out what’s truly hot? The big tourist spaces are a draw for New York chefs, and local talents rising from within the Hudson Valley and Catskills. Check out what’s happening in Kingston, New Paltz, Saugerties and Woodstock. Ellenville’s now got a main street chock-a-block with inventive cuisine ... and it’s inexpensive, too! Athens, Catskill, Chatham, Hudson, Germantown, Tivoli, Millerton, Rhinebeck, and Poughkeepsie all have hot new places, as do many rural haunts off the main roads.

Beacon and Newburgh have seen a number of new openings of late. Then again, many old standbys have started closing, too, worried that what they’d been serving for years may be in the process, now, of being eclipsed by the arrival of new Brooklyn-fed tastebuds.

Before heading out to eat, always check the hours of your target establishment, since many restaurants serve breakfast and lunch but no dinner, or vice versa, and some are closed midweek for part of the year. And don’t forget that as the average local restaurant shrinks in size (while growing its menu), reservations may be a must!

Restaurants

S

omething’s happening with Hudson Valley restaurants. Much of it has to do with the growth of the farm-to-table and locavore movements that have swallowed urban tastebuds of late. Ever noticed the number of mentions Hudson Valley food products get on Brooklyn, Queens and Manhattan menus? Or the regular appearance

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centuries. The early colonists found that English apple trees grew easily here, while the New England soils weren’t great for barley, so necessary for beer brewing. Prohibition killed off American cider for 90 years, but now it’s come roaring back, forming one of the fastest growing categories in the craft beverage movement.

Craft ciders and cideries are springing up across the Hudson Valley at a rapid clip. Elizabeth Ryan owns and operates wellknown orchards at Breezy Hill near Staatsburg in northern Dutchess and Stone Ridge Orchards in Ulster. Ryan, who has been in farm-to-table and orchard management for decades, has an overview as sharp and crisp as a really good Macintosh. �This is a very dynamic time in the Hudson Valley, and the challenge we face is to build strong marketing programs to spread our products,� she said. “We also

need to encourage more tourism here in the valley in the off season. Two months of fall, yes, lots of visitors, but what about the rest of the year? We have to be creative.�

Ryan is about to release her first Pommeau, a specialty of Normandy and Belgium, and essentially a “fortified cider.� Classically, unfermented cider must is mixed two-to-one with Calvados, the French apple brandy, barreled to mature for up to three years, and then bottled.

The result is about 18 per cent alcohol, the “Port� or sweet sherry of the cider world.

Ryan and other cidermakers from New York have been roaming the world promoting Hudson Valley ciders. “We were just at the Royal Bath and West Show in England, with our bottle-conditioned ciders. I’m delighted to report that our “God Speed the Plough� and “The Last Blacksmith� ciders took home silver

April - June, 2018 • 51

medals this month at the International Cider Competition. Our “Maeves� and traditional ciders took home bronze medals.�

More innovations are coming. Watch for rose ciders that are being launched this month. The cider world is exhibiting the same explosive sense of possibility that we saw in craft beer about a decade ago. The movement will continue to grow.

From the perspective of only 25 years ago, this incredible diverse, expanding universe of spirits, beers and ciders would have seemed almost impossible. There’s a strong sense in the mid-Hudson region that this industry is only just hitting its stride, and that the future is bright indeed.

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• April - June, 2018

Explore Hudson Valley

Rambling season It’s okay to simply get outside again

By Lissa Harris

H

ikers sometimes call it “shoulder season,” that awkward stretch of winteradjacent weather that can’t seem to make up its mind. In the Catskills we tend to call it like it is: mud season.

It’s not our best look. As the snow recedes, it leaves behind a grimy, grotty, grit-encrusted landscape in which you can have any color you like so long as it’s gray. Without cover of leaves or snow, the forests that were clear-cut a century ago

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show their awkward youth, a welter of spindly adolescent trunks crosshatching the mountains.

Early spring in the Catskills is a mess.

Hiking trails are perilous. Springs well up from the boggy ground. It’s cold, it’s wet, it’s tempting to write off the outdoors entirely.

Not so fast. Now is the best time to ramble.

One of the underappreciated joys of this

region is walking, just walking, along the shoulder of some little back road that might lead anywhere. No trailhead, no sign-in sheet. No need for poles or maps or compasses. Turn off the main road, or out of your driveway if you like. Wander along a little road, something with “Clove” or “Hollow” in the name, or maybe one named after people who are probably living somewhere down the end of it. Walk ‘til you get to a fork, then take it. Repeat.

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ou’ve bought your new upstate home, or rented a fine getaway for the coming summer. How do you make it as comfortable outside as inside, especially as winter’s savagery still evident all around? For the yard, you’ll need plants and gardening tools.

For the inside, a multitude of touches will be required to express individuality and a sense of home.

Where do you find what your house needs?

Many fruit and vegetable stands carry annual and perennial flowers once spring hits, as well as vegetable starts and herb seedlings. For a wider selection, including shrubs and saplings, look for a plant nursery, where you may also be able to get advice on gardening from the staff.

They can recommend a professional landscaper if you want planning help to take advantage of your yard’s highlights and overcome any flaws.

Hardware stores are a good source of gardening tools and soil amendments.

The larger ones have plants for sale, for both outdoors and indoors. Stop into the houseware department to equip and dress your home, for everything from teakettles to shower curtains, smoke detectors to light fixtures. A few mega-hardware stores offer one-stop shopping that covers garden and house, including appliances, some furniture, and do-it-yourself advice.

But since you’ve come to a region with deep roots, why not look into some of our local businesses instead of the national chains? You can find plenty in these pages.

April - June, 2018 • 53

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never see the views that open up to an aimless wanderer. Fifty miles an hour is too fast to notice the beautiful slate capstones on your neighbor’s stone wall, or to see the toad-mottled spathes of new skunk cabbage flowers pushing up out of the leaf litter.

Look closely, and there is color in the landscape after all. The pale sunset color along the inside of a torn birchbark scrap.

A ragged lichen, so green it seems almost phosphorescent. A faint blush spreading across those grey mountains, a mist composed of millions upon millions of dark red leaf buds, not quite ready to break open. It’s not enough, after six months of unrelenting drear, but we’ll have to take what we can get.

I PUBLIC DOMAIN PHOTO

Spring is a great time for walking along country roads, meandering along as new vistas reveal themselves.

It’s one of the perversions of country living that even though we’re surrounded by fresh air and open space we spend far less time wandering the landscape than urbanites do. Everywhere worth going around here is 20 minutes by car, or an

eternity on foot. But when you decide you don’t need to go anywhere at all, suddenly you’re free to walk. And when you walk, suddenly you can see.

You could drive the same stretch of country road a hundred times, and you’d

n early spring, you can see the texture of every hill and hollow. Later on, when the trees unfurl, they will close off the mountains, filling in the view leaf by leaf until only a wall of dense living green remains. For now, you can stand in the road and stare for miles across the rumpled hills, and follow the lines of the old stone walls through fields and forests.

Meanwhile, on the forest floor, there is a furious race underway. The flowering

Shopping

W

ho doesn’t want to do a bit of vacation while on vacation, even if only “getting away” in one’s own mind and attitude? The Hudson Valley and surrounding mountains are filled with hamlets, villages, towns and even small cities filled with great shops, many specializing in truly local goods. Hudson, Kingston, Rhinebeck, Beacon, New Paltz, Woodstock, Millerton, Catskill, and even smaller places such as Saugerties, New Paltz, Phoenicia, Windham, Ellenville, Millbrook, and Margaretville have unique arrays of boutiques and specialty shops. Each community has its own character. Drive around and see which places appeal to you.

You might find an emphasis on history, with antique shops housed in magnificent Victorian buildings. Towns that cater to hikers, hunters and fisherfolk have camping stores with plenty of supplies for outdoor recreation. Where the arts are celebrated, look for bookstores, art

galleries and music shops. If craftspeople live nearby, expect stores with local handmade items.

Some towns feature upscale boutiques with stylish clothing and decorative housewares. Almost every community has a gift shop with toys for the kids and local souvenirs.

Actually, many Main Streets (no matter

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few weeks of sunlight allotted to them. By late May, the trees overhead will drown them in shade once again.

A hiker ascending the peaks of the Catskills navigates not just a mountain but also a particular sort of wilderness fantasy. While hiking a trail, it is easy to forget that the landscape you travel in is essentially a human one, curated and interpreted and maintained by many hours of volunteer labor.

Walking offers no such illusions. A road takes you through a fuller range of what the terrain holds: a stretch of forest, a farm, a neglected pile of scrap metal, a

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hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no better way of accessing the small-town appeal of the Hudson Valley than attending local sports events. There are some adult and young adult competitive sports on our various college campuses, as well as menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s softball and horseshoe leagues in the Hudson Valley. There are early-season events at HITS (Horseshows in the Sun, in Saugerties), some key golf tournaments around the area, and plenty of grand road running and bicycle races.

The Kingston Stockade FC soccer season runs from April 27 through July 7. The great minor-league baseball played by the Hudson Valley Renegades in Wappingers and Tri-Valley Cats in Troy starts mid-June.

High-school baseball, softball and lacrosse are all over the place. Best of all are Little League and Babe Ruth baseball. A growing number of spring soccer leagues play on municipal fields every Saturday, plus several evenings a week.

Most games have a concession stand of some sort. There are bleachers and often avid fans. The playâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always spirited, and the sportsmanship fun and infectious.

Best of all is sitting in a bit of sun observing the intent kids of all ages and both genders in their uniforms, either focused on their games or daydreaming out in left field. Parents and coaches yell or cheer.

Younger siblings play under bleachers or in nearby playgrounds. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s likely to be a horizon line dotted with roof gables, maybe a steeple or two, or distant mountains. Note the increasing growth in the leaf cover, and shades of green all about. Ah, spring ball!

color Explore Hudson Valley

April - June, 2018 • 55

PUBLIC DOMAIN PHOTO

Catskills roadways can be surprisingly quiet this time of year. Leaves are yet to emerge. There’s often a remnant of winter and even autumn in the forests. You can hear the wind whisper like breath over a wide-lipped bottle. merganser fishing in a brook, an excavator biting into a hillside. The human footprint is everywhere, but there is no need to strike out in search of “the environment.”

It is already here. The Catskill Park and its creatures are all around us.

Walking in no particular hurry, with no obvious destination, you may attract a few strange looks. It is increasingly rare these days to find people ambling around without a purpose. If you choose to accessorize — with a dog, for instance, or with obvious jogging gear — you may escape such notice.

But however inquisitive the neighbors might be, it is your right to walk the public roads, as boldly as any Roman. Like the

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city flâneur, the walker of country roads does not need to hurry, or to be going anywhere. To walk is to insist on one’s autonomy.

Spring around here is hardly a bloom-

ing rose garden, but that can’t be helped.

Make the most of this awkward, graceless season. Put a few hundred miles on your boots while you can, before the Jersey drivers get here.

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