Yarn photo
HANDWOVEN
LOOM THEORY eight-shaft shawl collection 2019
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CONTENTS LOOM THEORY 2019
• volume III
05 A Letter from the Editor Susan E. Horton
THE COLLECTION 06 RADIANT MÖBIUS Charlene Kolb 12 SHADE GARDEN Susan Porter 18 JAZZ FUSION Nancy Dunlap 24 ADVANCING BLUES Mary Berent 30 LINEN AND LACE Suzie Liles 36 GRAPHITE & GOLD Cynthia Newman 42 SANDHILL CRANE Brittany Wells
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A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR I acknowledge the fine line between the definition of scarf versus shawl, especially in today’s world where the two often seem interchangeable. However, when going out, if there is a chill or I’m uncertain as to what the temperature might be, or when I want to add a bit of statement to a quiet outfit, I reach for a shawl rather than a scarf, and it needs to be the perfect shawl. PHOTO BY GEORGE BOE
Welcome to Loom Theory: Eight-Shaft Shawl Collection 2019, a special publication of Handwoven magazine and one that may alter your definition of the perfect shawl. A perfect shawl is one that is substantial enough to keep you warm but doesn’t overheat, can be worn in a variety of ways, and has an intriguing design and a luxurious feel. All seven of the shawls in Loom Theory: Eight-Shaft Shawl Collection 2019 fit that description. They were woven using high-quality yarns from some of our favorite yarn sources: Lone Star Loom Room, Treenway Silks, Vävstuga, Jagger Spun, Glimåkra USA, Lunatic Fringe Yarns, and Brown Sheep Company. The yarns used include cottons, silks, wools, cottolin, and linen. We chose designers that we felt were uniquely qualified to work with the wonderful yarns from the sponsoring companies. The designers are Charlene Kolb, Susan Porter, Nancy Dunlap, Mary Berent, Suzie Liles, Cynthia Newman, and Brittany Wells. You can purchase the pattern collection while browsing the lookbook—just find the “Purchase Now” button on every design-information page to be directed to our store page, where you can download the entire collection of patterns in a bundle. You will be happy to know that we are including WIF downloads with these patterns that you can open and use with almost any weaving software. I think you will agree that this is the perfect collection of perfect handwoven shawls. Weave well,
Projects and information are for inspiration and p ersonal use only. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please email handwoven@longthreadmedia.com. Handwoven does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, p roducts, services, or views advertised in Handwoven. Nor does Handwoven evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in e valuating the advertisers, products, services, and views advertised in Handwoven.
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RADIANT MÖBIUS CHARLENE KOLB
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888-562-7012 www.lonestarloomroom.com
Venne and Bockens Yarn • Books • Equipment VÄV Magazine • Kits Est 2000
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Yarn photo LONE STAR LOOM ROOM For nearly 15 years, the Lone Star Loom Room has offered quality weaving yarns online and in its Houston shop, including a wide range of Scandinavian yarns such as Venne-Colcoton’s fabulous 20/2 mercerized cotton. Made from long-staple Egyptian cotton, these yarns are extra strong with a beautiful sheen. Another spectacular Venne yarn is the cotton/wool blend. Lighter than pure wool, this blend is perfect when you want a scarf or shawl that’s warm but won’t overheat you. The 40/1x2 yarn is made from fine singles of wool and cotton side by side—not plied—so it’s best for weft. Combine it with Venne 20/2 cotton as warp and you have the perfect recipe for an elegant shawl. Shown here: Venne 20/2 cotton–Fern Green, Cyan, Dark Purple VENNE 20/2 COTTON
FIBER: 100% cotton YARDAGE: 800 yd per 1.5 oz mini cone; 4,200 yd per 8 oz cone RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace—30 epi; plain weave—36 epi; twill—48 epi COLORWAYS: 111
RADIANT MÖBIUS CHARLENE KOLB I spend hours looking at drafts in old weaving magazines, weaving books, or my own binder of saved drafts. I look at the patterns and designs produced by a draft and consider how they will translate to woven cloth. This Möbius shawl draft came from my “Binder of Drafts.” I had originally noted that it reminded me of Mesoamerican designs and would be great for yardage. Guatemalan and Mexican textiles inspired my color palette.
VENNE 40/1X2 COTTON/WOOL
STRUCTURE Twill.
FIBER: 60% cotton/40% wool YARDAGE: 1,080 yd per 1.75 oz cone RECOMMENDED SETTS: not recommended for warp COLORWAYS: 15
EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 20" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 1 bobbin.
YARNS 20/2 pearl cotton (8,400 yd/lb; Venne; Lone Star Loom Room). 40/1x2 cotton/wool (60% cotton/40% wool; 9,874 yd/lb; Venne; Lone Star Loom Room). FINISHED SIZE 17½" x 64".
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SHADE GARDEN SUSAN PORTER
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Zola & Carmela silk yarns, designed and woven by Betsy Blumenthal
Your silk experts
All photography by Thomas Harrop
and hand-dyeing specialists since 1977, TreenwaySilks.com more than 30 different undyed silk yarns. Any Yarn/Any Color: Any of Treenway Silks’ yarns can be hand-dyed any of our 140 colors. The ultimate customization!
Alirio-Thinner & Gekko silk yarns, designed by Susan Du Bois, woven by Sandra Hutton
In a hurry? Look for Color Now! skeins. Our most popular silk yarns in your favorite colors are handdyed and ready mail today. Selection changes daily.
Forever in Silk
“Alirio-Thinner & Taiyo yarns, designed by Susan Du Bois, woven by Sandra Hutton”
www.treenwaysilks.com Call toll-free at
1.888.383.silk (7455) Kiku silk yarn in natural-dye colors, designed by 16 Du Bois, woven by Betsy Blumenthal Susan
Lakewood, CO • USA
Silken Ankara & Taiyo silk yarns, woven by Eunice York
Yarn photo TREENWAY SILKS Silk is always in season; the only question is which silk to use. With Treenway Silks’ extensive line of silk and silk blends, you can find just the right yarn for your project and pick the perfect palette from more than 140 colors. Lustrous silk and comfortable cotton combine beautifully in the Silken Cloud yarn making it perfect for lightweight, luxurious weaving—especially summery scarves and shawls. New to weaving with silk? This is the perfect starter yarn. The cotton makes this yarn less slippery—and more affordable— than a pure silk yarn. Give it a try and you might find yourself falling in love. Shown here: Tourmaline Green, Purple Rain, Rendezvous Blue, Glacier SILKEN CLOUD
FIBER: 70% bombyx silk/30% cotton YARDAGE: 1,760 yd per 3.5 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace—16 epi; plain weave—30 epi; twill—34 epi COLORWAYS: over 140
SHADE GARDEN SUSAN PORTER For me, thoughts of summer bring up images of flowers and shade trees. In designing this shawl, I alternated muted blue and green in the warp to add color richness and create the overall effect of dappled shade. Next, I added stripes of purple to make the other colors sing and to bring in the hues of the vinca blossoms that grow under the large juniper tree in my yard. STRUCTURE Twill.
30% cotton; 8,000 yd/lb; Treenway Silks).
EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom with 22" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 1 bobbin.
OTHER SUPPLIES Orvus Paste or other nonalkaline detergent; white vinegar; pressing cloth.
YARN Silken Cloud (70% silk/
FINISHED SIZE 18¾" x 85" with 5½" fringe.
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JAZZ FUSION NANCY DUNLAP
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Yarn photo VÄVSTUGA If you're looking for a yarn that’s fantastically soft, strong, and comfortable next to the skin, and that can be washed without worry, look no further than Bockens 22/2 cottolin from Vävstuga. The perfect blend of cotton and linen makes for a yarn with the best qualities of both. It has the strength and durability of linen and the softness and ease of warping and weaving with cotton.
JAZZ FUSION NANCY DUNLAP Spring was in the air when I chose my color pal-
Best of all, Vävstuga carries Bockens cottolin in dozens of colors so you can play with your palette to your heart’s content. Cottolin is a yarn for all seasons and nearly all projects. Use it to weave gorgeous summertime scarves, household linens, beautiful lightweight shirts, and more.
ette and weave structure. For an invigorating col-
Shown here: Dandelion, Sapphire, Coral Pink
teristics of both fibers. The linen will soften and
BOCKENS 22/2 COTTOLIN FIBER: 60% cotton/40% linen YARDAGE: 1,804 yd per 8.8 oz tube RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace—15 epi; plain weave—20 epi; twill—24 epi COLORWAYS: 74
become shinier, but is also very strong so it can
orway, I chose Coral Pink, Sapphire, and Dandelion, and the huck lace structure adds a luxurious and airy feeling—a shawl perfect for spring and summer. The 22/2 cottolin takes on the charac-
handle everyday use. The cotton fiber provides characteristics of a comfortable, breathable fabric that can be cared for easily. STRUCTURE Huck lace. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 23" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle, 1 bobbin.
YARN 22/2 cottolin (60% cotton/40% linen; 3,274 yd/lb; Bockens, Vävstuga). FINISHED SIZE 20½" x 82½" with 5" fringe.
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ADVANCING BLUES www.jaggeryarn.com Springvale, Maine USA
MARY BERENT
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Zephyr Wool Silk 50% Wool 50% Silk Blend Available in Lace and Worsted Weights
Springvale, Maine USA
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Yarn photo JAGGER SPUN Weavers love Jagger Spun’s line of yarns, and it’s easy to see why! The Zephyr line is the perfect blend of soft merino wool and lustrous tussah silk. Thanks to this magical combination, Zephyr is a lightweight yarn that will keep you warm without weighing you down. Use Zephyr to weave scarves, shawls, and anything else you wear against the skin. Zephyr is sumptuously soft with just a hint of shine, making it the perfect yarn for extra-special projects. Shown here: Mushroom, Royal 18/2 ZEPHYR
FIBER: 50% merino wool/50% tussah silk YARDAGE: 1,102 yd per 3.5 oz hank RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace—18 epi; plain weave—22 epi; twill—24 epi COLORWAYS: 48
ADVANCING BLUES MARY BERENT Advancing twill’s many variations make it an interesting structure to explore. I chose three twills when designing this shawl. To create a border, I threaded a straight draw and then used two advancing twill lines to give the body of the shawl the wonderful undulations and curves characteristic of advancing twills. The fabulously soft Jagger Spun Zephyr might seem delicate, but it is actually quite strong due to its combination of tussah silk and merino wool.
STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 25" weaving width; 8-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 1 bobbin.
YARN 2/18 Zephyr (50% merino/50% tussah silk; 5,040 yd/lb; Jagger Spun). FINISHED SIZE 22" x 85" with 9" fringe.
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LINEN AND LACE SUZIE LILES
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B O C K E N S 34
SWEDISH YARN FOR THE MODERN WEAVER
L I N E N
DOWNLOAD 2018/2019 PRICELIST AT WWW.GLIMAKRAUSA.COM
Yarn photo GLIMÅKRA USA Bockens 16/2 linen is perfect for weaving heirloom household linens, summery garments, and crisp, cool scarves with a beautiful sheen that can only come from linen. Manufactured in Sweden, a country long known for its linen yarns, Bockens 16/2 linen is made from the highest-quality Swedish flax. Because linen is naturally light, Bockens 16/2 will keep you cool when it’s warm out, making it perfect for spring and summer scarves and shawls. For weavers who love designing around color, Bockens linen comes in 70 colors. You’ll have plenty of choices, whether you want to go with a traditional Scandinavian palette or something bright, bold, and thoroughly modern.
LINEN AND LACE SUZIE LILES To me, linen and lace go together. Of course, you can weave lace with other fibers, but linen’s shine and crispness give lace woven with it a distinctive look. I love its strength in the warp, and how it softens with use but can be brought up to a shine with pressing. Many weavers design lace
Shown here: Rose Beige, Violet Maroon
using one color, and some will only weave lace
BOCKENS 16/2 LINEN
in white, but I often use one color for my warp
FIBER: 100% linen YARDAGE: 690 yd per 4.4 oz spool; 1,380 yd per 8.8 oz spool RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace—15 epi; plain weave—20 epi; twill—30 epi COLORWAYS: 70
and another for my weft with good results. For this shawl, I chose two colors with similar values, which made the lace stand out in a subtle way. STRUCTURE Huck lace.
YARN 16/2 linen (2,509 yd/lb; Bockens; Glimåkra USA).
EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 19" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 1 bobbin.
FINISHED SIZE 17" x 78" with 4" fringe.
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WIF INCLUDED WITH DOWNLOAD
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GRAPHITE & GOLD CYNTHIA NEWMAN
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Yarn photo LUNATIC FRINGE YARNS Weave a rainbow with the Tubular Spectrum line of mercerized cotton yarns from Lunatic Fringe Yarns, or weave a value study with the Gray Matter Collection. The Tubular Spectrum was developed when a group of weavers realized there was no way to get a cohesive set of colors to weave a color gamp in cotton—without having to dye it themselves. So that’s exactly what they did, and Lunatic Fringe Yarns was born. Later, they added the Gray Matter Collection that consists of 5 even steps of gray values plus black and white, and more recently, 10 coordinating colors called Tints and Tones joined the group, bringing the total number of colors to 37. All colors in the Tubular Spectrum, the Gray Matter Collection, and Tints and Tones are available in 5/2, 10/2, and 20/2 pearl cotton. Whether you want to weave the ultimate color gamp or simply find that perfect palette for your next project, Lunatic Fringe Yarns has you covered. Shown here: Very Dark Gray, Gold, Copper
GRAPHITE & GOLD CYNTHIA NEWMAN Cargo ships, bridges, grain silos, and machines—industrial design inspired the Graphite & Gold shawl. Fascinated by the patterns and texture that appear when light shines across the surface of rivets, concrete, and corrugated steel, I turned to Lunatic Fringe Yarns Gray Matter Collection to create a design with an industrial look. I started by sketching a design, concentrating on simplifying the blocks to a few basic repetitive units, reflecting an industrial scale.
TUBULAR SPECTRUM AND GRAY MATTER COLLECTION 20/2 COTTON
FIBER: 100% cotton YARDAGE: 800 yd per 1.5 oz mini cone; 4,200 yd per 8 oz cone RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace—30 epi; plain weave—36 epi; twill—48 epi COLORWAYS: 37
STRUCTURE Twill.
YARN 20/2 pearl cotton (8,400 yd/lb; Lunatic Fringe Yarns).
EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 17" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 2 bobbins.
FINISHED SIZE 15½" x 79½".
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WIF INCLUDED WITH DOWNLOAD
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SANDHILL CRANE BRITTANY WELLS
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Nature Spun www.brownsheep.com
With more than eighty vibrant colors spun in four different weights, the possibilities are unlimited for creating something beautiful with Nature Spun. This yarn is spun with 100% U.S. wool in 3 plies. The wide array of colors from soft naturals to bold bright hues are each made in fingering, sport, worsted, and chunky weights. The 3-ply construction of Nature Spun gives it spring, smoothness and strength. Weavers love our one-pound cones of fingering and sport weight yarn.
Brown Sheep Company, Inc.
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MITCHELL, NEBRASKA
Yarn photo BROWN SHEEP COMPANY There are few joys better than putting on a beautiful, warm, and cozy wool shawl, unless that shawl also happens to be handwoven. If you’re looking for a wonderful wool yarn for handweaving your perfect winter shawl, make sure to check out Brown Sheep Company’s Nature Spun fingering yarns. These beautiful yarns are extra strong and work equally well as warp and weft so you can weave without worry. Nature Spun also felts beautifully, so you can use it to weave wonderful felt fabrics for jackets and bags, or pair it with one of Brown Sheep’s nonfelting yarns to create a piece with differential shrinkage. The hardest part of working with Nature Spun is trying to decide which of the 79 colors to use in your weaving. Shown here: Pomegranate, Grey Heather, Golden Honey NATURE SPUN
FIBER: 100% wool YARDAGE: 310 yd per 1.75 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace—12 epi; plain weave—15 epi; twill—18 epi. COLORWAYS: 79
SANDHILL CRANE BRITTANY WELLS Each spring, hundreds of thousands of migrating cranes voyage through the Nebraska Sandhills. Their ancient, distinctive trill is like no other sound; to listen for the call of the first sandhill crane is to listen for the beginning of springtime. With this design, I wanted to capture the experience of gazing up at a V-shaped formation of flying cranes, only to realize that countless flying “Vs” stretch across the horizon as far as the eye can see. STRUCTURE Twill.
wool; 2,800 yd/lb; Brown Sheep Company).
EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 19" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 1 bobbin.
OTHER SUPPLIES Mild wool shampoo. FINISHED SIZE 16" x 64" with 6" fringe.
YARN Nature Spun Fingering (100%
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WIF INCLUDED WITH DOWNLOAD
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THANK YOU for browsing this issue of LOOM THEORY. If you enjoyed this lookbook, you can purchase the entire pattern collection HERE. You can also click the Purchase Now button on every design information page to be directed to our store page, where you can download the collection. Individual WIFs for each scarf are included with the download. EDITORIAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Anne Merrow EDITOR Susan E. Horton ASSOCIATE EDITOR Christina Garton MANAGING EDITOR Elizabeth Prose TECHNICAL EDITORS Deanna Deeds, Anita Osterhaug, Angela Schneider, Bettie Zakon-Anderson
FOUNDERS Linda Ligon, Anne Merrow, John Bolton
COPY EDITOR Katie Bright
MEDIA SALES Sommer Street Associates,
PROOFREADER Nancy Arndt
sales@longthreadmedia.com DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Haydn Strauss
CREATIVE ART DIRECTOR Kit Kinseth
www.handwovenmagazine.com
PRODUCTION DESIGNER Mark Dobroth
www.longthreadmedia.com
PHOTOGRAPHY Caleb Dane Young PHOTOSTYLING Emily Smoot HAIR & MAKEUP Beauty on Location
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