style in progress 3.17 EN

style in progress

It’s High Time for a THANK YOU! Finally! We’re No Longer Teenagers Yesterday, Tomorrow, Today – A Journey Through the Wonderful World of style in progress!

#3/2017

€ 6.90

alberto-pants.com

wool winter Alberto macht Hosen, die man am liebsten jeden Tag anziehen wĂźrde, weil sie einfach perfekt zu tragen sind.

alberto-pants.com

wool winter Alberto macht Hosen, die man am liebsten jeden Tag anziehen wĂźrde, weil sie einfach perfekt zu tragen sind.

style in progress

ALASKA

woolrich.eu

20. Jahrgang # 3.2017

SINCE 1830

Das muss einfach mal gesagt werden – DANKE! Endlich! Raus aus dem Teenageralter Gestern, heute, morgen – eine Zeitreise durch die wunderbare Welt von style in progress

#3/2017

€ 6,90

EDITORIAL 001

A Hearty Pat on the Shoulder Welcome to these lines.

Our twentieth year - that is worth a huge WOW! I am incredibly proud of what the small team of style in progress has created in these two decades. Poring over archived issues has brought back a lot of memories. We have spoken to some incredible characters, picked up topics earlier than others, and always been aware that our readers think differently and therefore want to be informed differently. This rings especially true today. We perceive it as an honour that you still take the time to read a print edition. We have always - and will always - strive to do this dedication justice. The retrospective of our magazine’s twenty years certainly proves that we take our job very seriously.

What has changed in twenty years of critical and independent fashion journalism? Pretty much everything, but the cornerstones of a good story still remain intact. We are delighted that you are willing to take the time to reminisce with us. Our magazine started with a small revolution: the birth of New Menswear and New Womenswear. A little later we witnessed the decline of the Cologne-Düsseldorf trade fair axis. We’ve always been at the heart of profound changes in the retail sector and have followed the new awareness of consumers. As you can see, many topics have accompanied us for years. The same applies to many truly talented individuals. Elisabeth Prock-Huber has been responsible for the graphic design and art direction of the magazine right from the start and perceives style in progress as so much more than a mere project. She is the magazine’s proverbial big sister and taught it to walk in collaboration with Stephan Huber. Other important influencers were the two people that formed (and still form) Stephan Huber’s editorial team. First this was Joachim Schirrmacher, and now Martina Müllner-Seybold. We know many of our authors long enough to laugh with them about photos from days long gone (from page 106). Over the years we have developed a strong bond with Nicoletta Schaper, Ina Köhler, and Kay Alexander Plonka.

During our editorial conferences we have always dreamed about establishing a “Where is XY today?” segment. However, this dream was quickly cast aside while studying the archives, mainly because many of the people who have been on this journey for us from the offset are still here. This feels great in a time defined by profound changes. So how will our beloved industry and our reporting on it look twenty years from now? We will - of course - continue to inform you. Whether we will do this in a virtual/digital form or still - slightly anachronistic - in print remains to be seen. Both ways are fun, that’s for sure!

Enjoy your read!

Your style in progress team.

P.S.: Don’t forget to register on www.style-in-progress.com, which will allow you to remain well-informed while waiting for our next issue.

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www.meindl-fashion.de / www.facebook.com/meindl.fashion / www.instagram.com/meindl_fashion

KULTUR UND HANDWERK

authentic luxury

KULTUR UND HANDWERK

authentic luxury

16 – 18 JANUARY

2018 BERLIN

T H E FA S H I O N AUTHORITY www.premiumgroup.berlin

16 JANUARY 2018 BERLIN

10 – 12 FEBRUARY 2018 MUNICH

008 CONTENT

style in progress

001 EDITORIAL

A Hearty Pat on the Shoulder

010 RIGHT NOW

030

110 WANT IT 040 WHAT'S THE STORY

Where Are We Heading?

Where Are We Heading?

COMMUNICATION AND JOURNALISM

040

Celebrating 20 years of style in progress is not only a good time for a retrospective, but also for an outlook.

We sat down with a few industry professionals.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper, Kay Alexander Plonka. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler

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“I have been working on and around the human body for 30 years. In this time, I designed more than 3,000 trousers.

This work has a lot to do with sex.

That’s probably my main motivation.”

François Girbaud

“If one visits a master chef’s restaurant, one not only accepts a higher price for the food, but also for mineral water and espresso.”

Dietmar Lingg, Lingg Dornbirn

“I want to create fashion that can be worn for a long time. I believe one should

think about fashion differently than one does at the large fashion shows in Paris, Milan, or London. I believe in ‘normal’, natural clothing worn by the people on the street. My cuts are also quite classic. The only thing I add is attitude.”

Raf Simons

THE LONGVIEW 030 “style in progress is Like a Personal Conversation” Back for the party - Joachim Schirrmacher, style in progress editor-in-chief until 2008, interviews Stephan Huber

WHAT’S THE STORY 20 YEARS OF STYLE IN PROGRESS 040 Where Are We Heading?

Ego communicate, ergo sum - but how and what does the future hold? Nicoletta Schaper and Kay Alexander Plonka have collected the opinions of fashion industry experts 048 Yesterday, Tomorrow, Today A bright future is what we strive to believe in - industry leaders tell us how they think fashion can change for the better 064 20 Years of style in progress A very personal “best of” from 20 years of cultured trade journalism 106 Back in 1998 More hair, less wrinkles, cigarettes, and beer bottles - what the style in progress community was up to in 1998 108 Highflier Mirela Stanoiu and the most successful start-up of the season the Roqa collection

FASHION 116 Jubilee 20 years of style in progress, 20 years of change in fashion a review by Sabine Berlipp

IN STORE 138 Focus on Value. Sois Blessed/Munich 140 Hot Spot. Project 4/Copenhagen 142 Riverside. Wally/Gastein 144 Don’t Look Back. Pfeffers/Essen 146 New York Treasure Trove. The Store/New York 148 Together. Insieme/St. Johann in Tyrol 150 Young & Wild. Strandmeister/Linz

152 EDITOR’S LETTER Win - Win - Win - Win… 064

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152 ABOUT US

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Closed x François Girbaud

Welcome Back, Old Boy!

One wonders whether fans of the Closed brand are aware of how revolutionary it was in the years following its foundation.

The European godfather of denim has decided to make a comeback for a single collection. It will be showcased at the Paris Fashion Week and hit the stores in spring 2018. It’s a reminiscence of the era when the focus on denim overshadowed everything else. The capsule collection for women and men consists of selected items such as the groundbreaking “X-construction” and the “Handlebar Yoke”. To reflect the need of urban cycling, the collaboration features elements such as reflective stripes or prints that shine at night. Modern vertical stretch materials facilitate movement.

Some pockets have been repositioned and adjusted in shape to create space for smart phones and iPads. So here’s a history lesson to cap it all off: what we know as Closed today was founded by Marithe and Francois Girbaud as CA in 1968. The brand relocated to Hamburg in the 1990s and the management changed soon thereafter. www.closed.com

Stone Island

Sun and Frost

Stone Island has treated itself to a new flagship store in sunny Los Angeles. It is located at the intersection between N La Brea and 1st Street in a freestanding building with 500 square metres sales area and expansive glass fronts. The interior is dedicated to the “isola di pietra”.

A backdrop of multi-layered glass in blue tones in the ceiling and floor structures forms the setting for the trademark compass rose. The interior was designed by Marc Buhre, an industrial designer from Heidelberg, within a shop system developed exclusively for the brand.

Frost Finish is a little frostier, so to speak. The term describes a treatment technique for outerwear, sweaters, and trousers that was featured for the first time in the current collection. The process developed by Stone Island lends garments a look that suggests they’re covered in ice. There’s even more innovation, mind. The knitwear is subjected to a corrosion process in a dye bath, which creates an exciting colour effect. www.stoneisland.com

Innovation has always been central in Stone Island’s brand history. The image depicts the two new finishing techniques Frost Finish and Colour Corrosion.

Schott NYC started showcasing its range at Bikini Berlin in September.

Schott NYC

Berlin? Perfecto!

Francois Girbaud at his best: The collaboration between the brand and its founder will hit the stores in spring 2018.

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Berlin calling! Schott NYC, a cult label in its own right, has decided to establish a presence in the German capital. Since the 1st of September, the company has been showcasing selected items of the autumn/winter collection in one of the boxes at Bikini Berlin. In line with Schott NYC, it’s all about “American Lifestyle”. The fourth-generation family business is perceived as the inventor of the leather jacket. In 1928, Irving Scott created the first biker jacket for Harley Davidson: the “Perfecto”. It developed into a cult object quickly, helped along by Hollywood icons such as James Dean, Marlon Brando, and Peter Fonda. Today, Schott NYC’s new edition of the Perfecto and other iconic bomber jackets rely heavily on craftsmanship and authenticity. The range in the Concept Shopping Mall is complemented by other classic jackets for women and men. A selection of accessories - ranging from interior items to stationery - completes the offering. The pop-up store box will remain in Berlin until spring 2018. www.schottnyc.com

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Luis Trenker

Fashion Summiteers Conquer Vienna

Reaching the summit is enough for some. Others - like Luis Trenker - are eager to leave their mark on the way. The fashion label from South Tyrol is renowned for its rustic, trend-conscious, and luxurious style with a hint of Alpine lifestyle. The exclusive lifestyle brand has now decided to conquer the Austrian capital. In August, Luis Trenker opened its own store at the address “Herrengasse 19-21”. “Austria is an important market for us. We are delighted to have established a Luis Trenker presence in Vienna”, says Michi Klemera, the managing director of the label. The entire fashion range, including accessories and lifestyle products, is presented on a generous 180 square metres. The contradictions of town and country, mountain and valley, and tradition and trendiness are also reflected in the store design. In addition to wooden floors and framed retro photos, it features modern designer lamps, flat-screens, and straight-line shelves. www.luistrenker.com

Finally in Vienna: Luis Trenker’s store is located in the Austrian capital’s “Herrengasse”.

Alberto

Sporty Neighbour

Alberto, a true trouser specialist, is thrilled with the success of its store in Mönchengladbach. “The store teaches us something new every day”, says CEO Marco Lanowy. “Our goal is to develop continually and to optimise the collections and retail concepts we offer our retail partners. The direct feedback of consumers is very valuable to us.” The brand hopes to replicate this direct exchange in the more athletic shop right next door. Alberto shows its sporty side in a 65-square-metre project store. For the very first time, the label has its own store displaying its activewear competence in the form of golf trousers, hiking attire, and cycling apparel. The project store itself was rented from Mönchengladbach’s business promotion agency. The agency and Alberto established close ties when they jointly launched a temporary fashion hotel. In terms of the interior design concept, the fashion house teamed up with yet another renowned name: Jochem Reichenberg. The store is open from 10am to 6pm on Friday and Saturday and by appointment. It is not yet clear for how long customers will be able to delve into Alberto’s activewear and athleisure worlds. www.alberto-pants.com

Marina Hoermanseder pursues growth with a democratically priced range of bags.

Marina Hoermanseder

Democratic

Minimalist interior for highly functional trousers: Alberto has decided to open a 65-square-metre project store for its more athletic collections right next to its brand store in Mönchengladbach.

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Fashion shooting star Marina Hoermanseder is in “launch mode” this autumn. The young Austrian designer with French roots celebrated her debut at the Gallery Shoes. She brought along her new, democratically priced canvas bag collection. Since September, individual exclusive looks and bags are available at selected P&C stores and on FashionID.de. But how would one define the style of Marina Hoermanseder?

The young Viennese is renowned for her precise, body-hugging leather corsets featuring buckles and delicate fabrics. Her confident, unmistakable look stands for a self-sufficient, individual style that has allowed the designer to build a fan base almost instantly. However, her avant-garde ready-to-wear collection is not merely defined by buckles, ruffles, and rivets, but also by extraordinary leather bags.

The latter combine craftsmanship with elegance and eccentricity, which proves her passion for details. www.marinahoermanseder.com

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Furla

Excellent Organic Growth

Begg & Co

Common Cause

Begg & Co of Scotland recently acquired the Glen Saxon brand.

In January, the Begg & Co label launched an interior collection, consisting of plaids and blankets, to complement its high-end scarves and cloths. It was first showcased at the Maison Objet. At the beginning of July this year, Begg & Co then acquired the German brand Glen Saxon, for which it had already manufactured natural fibre products for many years. “I have gained more than 100 new customers in the upscale interior and bedding segments”, says Erika Palese, who is the sales representative for Begg & Co in the German-speaking countries. “I’m enjoying the new challenge and customers are thrilled that this top collection continues to exist in its well-known and proven quality.” The purchase prices for blankets and plaids range from 130 to 600 Euros, at a mark-up of 2.8. www.beggandcompany.com

Impregnated loden materials protect wearers from rain showers: the glücklich “Wetterfleck”.

Over the past three years, Furla Group has managed to double its sales. The growth figures for the first half of 2017 are equally impressive. Turnover increased by 23.5%. In numbers, the turnover increased from 193 million Euros in the first six months of 2016 to 238 million Euros. The driving force behind the success in this half-year was organic growth; like-for-like revenue in self-operated stores grew by a double-digit percentage. The Asian-Pacific region even recorded an impressive 63% growth rate. Today, Furla Group sells its products in more than 100 countries, runs more than 444 exclusive Furla brand boutiques (of which approx. 50% are self-managed), and has a presence in more than 1,200 multi-brand and department stores.

In short, the group maintains a worldwide sales network. In the first six months of 2017, the EMEA region (including Italy) contributed 45% to group revenue.

Furla invested significantly in areas such as innovation, sales, and personnel. As of the 30th of June, the group has more than 2,000 employees. During the remainder of 2017, it plans to invest even more in the areas of marketing and communication, especially in digital marketing and e-commerce. “The results of the first six months of 2017 make us very proud and underline the fact that our sales have doubled over the past three years. This growth rate in extremely complex scenarios in all markets is just as important as improving the quality of our sales network and our relationships with our strategic business partners. Furla’s continuous dedication to product innovations is in line with our brand values and helps us to achieve increasingly challenging goals. Our most striking feature is the speed at which we adjust to the ever-changing needs of the retail world. We strive to grow organically in our various product categories, as well as in terms of geographic reach”, says Alberto Camerlengo, the CEO of Furla Group. www.furla.com

glücklich

From South Tyrol into the World

The “Wetterfleck” is the South Tyrolean version of the parka and/or soft-shell jacket. This particular garment has swiftly developed into a real icon piece within the collection of glücklich.

Regional cycles in terms of production are particularly important to the glücklich founders.

The durable and impregnated loden material is what makes the “Wetterfleck” so universally usable. This was also noticed by the renowned design magazine Monocle, which decided to include the “Wetterfleck” in the product range it sells in its own stores.

The autumn/winter collection 2018 now includes an extended knitwear programme with sweaters for women and men. The product categories “Wetterfleck”, “Janker”, and rucksacks have also been expanded. The short production lines of glücklich have already paid off in the current winter season. The early delivery dates at the beginning of July ensured good sales for retailers. This is why glücklich has decided to offer the aforementioned product categories all year round as NOS products. www.gluecklich.it

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Master of Growth: Alberto Camerlengo is the CEO of Furla Group.

CLOSED.COM #CLOSEDOFFICIAL

F A I R .   S I N C E 1978 .

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Kathleen Madden

Comeback

The name Kathleen Madden invokes a confident style with feminine tricot dresses, casual t-shirts, and - last but not least - the famous sequinned logo depicting Manhattan’s skyline. There aren’t many brands that embody the 1990s like Kathleen Madden.

Back then, the label was pushed by supermodels such as Linda Evangelista, set in scene by star photographer Peter Lindbergh. The brand has now been revitalised by a new licensee. Confezioni Nadia s.r.l. is a 40-year-old family business headquartered in Padua and specialises in manufacturing high-end Italian knitwear for international labels. Kathleen Madden is the company’s first own project as it attempts to transfer the look into the modern age with the support of Christine Kunzmann, a former knitwear designer at Kathleen Madden. “The brand’s original design language remains the same. At the same time, we strive to be very close to market requirements”, says Klara Moormann, who is - together with her husband Timo - the driving force behind Moormann & Co., the sales representative of the brand founded by Arvid Moormann. Jersey knitwear - predominantly in black and white - still forms the basis of the collection with special highlights featuring lace, mesh, cut-outs, and glitter details. The purchase price for knitwear stands at 69 Euros, while dresses cost approximately 125 Euros - with a 2.8 mark-up. www.kathleen-madden.com

Kathleen Madden embarks on its comeback with a new licensee.

Responsive design and tablet-friendly Stereo Muc’s online store has been completely redesigned.

Leo Scordo has moved from Ermenegildo Zegna to C.P. Company.

C.P. Company

Under New Management

Italian sportswear brand C.P. Company appointed Leo Scordo as its new general manager at the end of September. His new position means that he is responsible for sales, marketing, and product development. In the past, Scordo was a senior manager at Ermenegildo Zegna for 18 years, where he led the sportswear, tailoring, and licensing departments. Earlier, he acted as retail and business development director at Borsalino and Cravatterie Nazionali. “I would like to thank Tristate’s board of directors for giving me this exciting opportunity. I strongly believe that C.P. Company has incredible heritage and great potential for further growth, both in wholesale and retail channels”, Scordo says and adds: “We will remain true to the brand’s unique DNA and plan to collaborate with leading sportswear designers and suppliers. At the same time, we intend to utilise the fascinating high-tech machinery of Trinovation Lab and its know-how in order to create true masterpieces of textile innovation. Our revenue has shown double-digit growth every season.

We are now ready to launch the brand’s next development phase. I am really looking forward to it.” The brand, which was founded by Massimo Osti in 1971, was taken over by China-based Tristate Holdings in 2015. www.cpcompany.com

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Stereo Muc

New Appearance

Stereo Muc, the Munich-based store of Komet und Helden managing directors Florian Ranft and Henrik Soller, has

only recently launched its completely redesigned online shop. “An increasing number of men are now also using tablets, which is why we decided on a complete re-launch”, says Soller. The site has been equipped with new technical features to cater for new market and customer needs and to make the e-commerce experience simpler and more efficient. “Online and offline are both part of modern commerce”, Soller adds. “Our customers often do research on our website before they visit the store. So our website basically replaces the traditional customer catalogue.” The best-selling collections of the store on Munich’s “Residenzstrasse” are Hartford and Barena, which are also distributed selectively to a small customer base by the Komet und Helden agency.

The shop also stocks brands such as Rag & Bone, Department 5, and Mey Story, which are complemented by accessories, cosmetics, and footwear by the likes of Diemme Sneakers. The latter are in higher demand than the limited editions by larger brands. “Our customers are increasingly interested in truly special items. Accordingly, we will continue to specialise our product range.” www.stereo-muc.de

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agencies

Rolf Griesinger Internationale Mode

Update from Los Angeles

Newcomers from the West and East Coast shape the fashion agency’s portfolio. The New York cashmere label Brown Allan has been on board for one season, but the agency has now also added the US label ei8ght dreams to its ranks. Its development HQs are located in the denim Mecca Los Angeles. The label is renowned for its perfect fits; the denim material is supplied by the Italian specialist Candiani. Bottoms are available as stock products, complemented by fashionable tops and jackets. Another new addition is cashmere specialist Lu Ren. In summer, it offers light blends with linen, cotton, and silk. There’s also news in terms of existing portfolio brands. Bloom plans to introduce a new delivery rhythm for summer 2018. The label will offer a pre-collection with early delivery between 1.11. and 1.12.17. The collection has become even more fashionable with elaborately accentuated coloured embroidery. The jackets by IQ+ Berlin remain solid performers. According to Martin Steckel, they have performed very well in terms of sales this season.

Labels: Anima Pop, Bloom, Brown Allan, ei8ght dreams, IQ+ Berlin, Lu Ren Rolf Griesinger Internationale Mode GmbH, Munich/Germany, office@griesinger-mode.de, www.griesinger-mode.de

Fashion Factory

by Mark Grütters

Three New Additions

The latest additions to the portfolio of Fashion Factory by Mark Grütters are Green Factory, Howlin, and Le Mont St Michel. Green Factory is a small botanical miracle and is presented separately in our “Want It” section. Howlin is a knitwear and French Terry specialist from Belgium. Its pullovers, t-shirts, polos, and sweaters for women, men, and children are manufactured in Scotland, Ireland, and Belgium. Le Mont St Michel is a young brand with a long history that hails from French Brittany. The brand, which initially specialised in workwear, was founded in 1913. Alexandre Milan took it over in 1998 and turned it into an urban, modern fashion label with a functional soul. The collection consists of knitwear, workwear, and denim for women and men. The retail prices range from 29 to 329 Euros. The list of customers includes the likes of Argot Berlin, Riviera Basel, Dr. Adams Odense, Steven Alan New York, and Adam et Rope Tokyo.

Labels: Espadrij l’originale, Green Factory, Howlin, Le Mont St Michel, Liberty Black, Paraboots, Penfield, Portuguese Flannel Fashion Factory by Mark Grütters, Düsseldorf/Germany, contact@ffbymg.com, www.ffbymg.com

Samantha Sung stands for feminine dresses in strong colours and with expressive prints.

MNE e.K. Denim specialist: ei8ght dreams, a newcomer from Los Angeles, relies on fabrics by Candiani.

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Sexy & Cool: Le Mont St Michel reinterprets workwear in a modern and urban context.

In Development

The aim of Düsseldorf-based fashion agency MNE is to dedicate its time to a mere few premium labels. Founded in 2016, it specialises in product specialists such as the Samantha Sung collection. This particular fashion line is all about the dress - very feminine, with expressive patterns,

and in lively colours. “The collection requires in-depth consulting. One needs to understand the countless possibilities in terms of models and prints”, says agency owner Markus Etzold.

His agency has been the collection’s representative in the German-speaking markets for three seasons and has managed to increase the customer base from 15 to 50 retailers during the last summer season. The list includes Dantendorfer, Burresi, Unützer Munich, Strolz, and Einwaller. The fashion line is characterised by cotton stretch material that adapts well to every figure and by flowing wool silk. At a mark-up of 2.7, the purchase prices range from 219 to 249 Euros. Maison Passage is also represented

by MNE. The luxurious cloths impress with a great variety of motifs such as New York graffiti or Italian frescos. They are made of materials like pure silk, merino wool, and cashmere. Customers include Apropos, Unützer Munich, and Mondial Pelz Vienna.

Etzold used to work in a corporate consulting firm and as an auditor before he decided to follow his passion for fashion. He gained experience at Agentur Toepfer and as a sales manager for the leather and fur collection by Steven-K. Finally, he decided to found his own agency together with his wife Hannah Böhringer. “The economic component is often underestimated”, Etzold stresses. “One can achieve a lot, if one combines business and fashion.”

Labels: Maison Passage, Samantha Sung MNE e.K., Düsseldorf/Germany, mark@mne-fashion.de, www.mne-fashion.de

FTC CASHMERE SHOWROOMS DEUTSCHLAND, ÖSTERREICH, SCHWEIZ FTC Cashmere Rather Strasse 49c,Rote Halle 40476 Düsseldorf, Deutschland T +49 211 484 691 20

FTC Cashmere Agentur Mark Seebach Prinzregentenstrasse 95 House of Brands. Berlin 81677 München, Deutschland Rathenower Strasse 11 T +49 172 861 23 90 10559 Berlin, Deutschland T +49 30 767 665 13

WWW.FTC-CASHMERE.COM

Collectionen Christian Teufl Vierthalerstrasse 11 5020 Salzburg, Österreich T +43 662 45 28 32

FTC Cashmere Ruessenstrasse 5a 6340 Baar, Schweiz T +41 41 767 27 37

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Room von Berlin

Give Things Time

Michaela von Berlin’s fashion agency (aptly named Room von Berlin) strives for long-term relationships with both its suppliers and customers. The best example for this is Liv Bergen, the agency’s core brand.

Michaela von Berlin has managed to expand its customer count to 160. The new additions Beta Studio, an athleisure collection, and Freedom Moses, a witty, ecological pool slide label from Israel, can expect the same kind of treatment. “As an agency, it is important to think outside the box and to offer products that correspond to a lifestyle idea.” The hair bands by Scoopy Loop and the pendants by Lucky Charms are but two examples. “I don’t banish a product from my showroom after two seasons, because I quite deliberately choose partners with whom I want to establish a successful long-term partnership. That doesn’t happen from one season to the next”, the agency owner explains. However, some products by the likes of Freedom Moses, which Room von Berlin represents in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, can be an instant success. “We have won over some great new customers such as Breuninger and Globus, mainly because purchase prices ranging from 12 to 15.60 Euros suggest a low-threshold. One doesn’t necessarily need a large order volume in order to add an eye-catcher to a store.”

Labels: Beta Studios, Freedom Moses, Liv Bergen, Lucky Charms, Scoopy Loop Room von Berlin, Munich/Germany, T. 0049.151.19497959, contact@roomvonberlin.de, www.roomvonberlin.de With brands such as Liv Bergen and Beta Studios, Room von Berlin promises its partners long-term relationships.

CP Fashion

The Craft is the Art

CP Fashion boasts 40 years of experience and a corresponding core competency in the jeans segment.

Silver Jeans is one of the main brands in the agency’s portfolio.

“This family business pursues a ‘The Craft is the Art’ philosophy. It has been producing jeans since 1921”, says Reinhart Oberstein. “The focus on details guarantees a perfect fit for both men’s and women’s jeans, even in plus-sizes.” Articles of Society was founded in LA three years ago with the aim of supplying high-end jeans at retail prices significantly lower than 200 US Dollars. In Germany, the prices range from 99 to 149 Euros.

“The success proves the brand right.

Today, it is one of the few jeans labels that has managed to increase its annual revenue by 20 to 30 percent and is an absolute highlight at the likes of Nordström in the US”, Oberstein adds. The main focus of Articles of Society is on a perfect fit and super-soft “Silktouch” denim fabrics.

Greywire is a denim brand for women based on the typical style of New York. Comfort and sophisticated, subtle details are the typical features of the collection, which utilises, for example, laser prints and fashionable activewear elements. It exclusively uses Japanese denim qualities at retail prices around 150 Euros. A brand for connoisseurs of both sexes is Jeans Shop NYC. “This iconic US denim brand stands for Selvedge denim with additional basic tops”, Oberstein explains. The brand hopes to boost its public profile in Germany by implementing pop-up concepts in partnership with selected retailers.

“The outfits in the film Kingsman will surely contribute to these efforts.”

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J. Lindeberg is a new addition to the brand portfolio of Bernhard Waage’s full-service agency.

Last but not least, Chaser of LA offers tees and sweats for men and women. CP Fashion represents the label in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. Soft jerseys made of innovative yarns, as well as special dyeing and finishing techniques, are characteristic of this unobtrusive, contemporary look.

Labels: Articles of Society, Chaser, Greywire, Jeans Shop NYC, Orobos, Silver Jeans CP Fashion, Bad Säckingen, Düsseldorf, and Munich/Germany, info@cpfashion.de, www.cpfashion.de

Select Studio

Experts for the North

A prominent new addition at Select Studio, the full-service agency of Bernd Waage, is J. Lindeberg. The agency started representing the Stockholm-based lifestyle brand in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland on the 1st of July. The brand’s showroom was moved to Munich’s “Balanstrasse 73”, which is right next to the showroom of Select Studio. The premises not only showcase fashion by J. Lindeberg, but also apparel for skiers and golfers, as well as activewear.

The showroom is managed

by Florian Gross, the sales director for Central Europe.

In its showrooms in Düsseldorf and Munich, Select Studio presents brands such as By Malene Birger, Oscar Jacobson, Gestuz, Scandinavian Edition, and others - all perfectly in line with the J. Lindeberg style. The agency recently reached a milestone when it successfully established and expanded Tiger of Sweden in the German-speaking markets.

This success is based on more than 20 years of experience and expertise.

CEO Waage says: “J. Lindeberg is the perfect embodiment of ‘active lifestyle’ and combines ‘fashion and function’ at the highest design and quality levels. This is not only on the pulse of time, but also creates added value for our customers and the market.”

Labels: By Malene Birger, Garment Project, Gestuz, Hudson, Humanoid, Oscar Jacobson, Scandinavian Edition, Tiger of Sweden, Zoe Karssen Select Studio, Munich & Düsseldorf/Germany, info@ select-trading.com, www. select-trading.com

Within Aco Germany’s brand portfolio, Seventy generates the largest growth rates.

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The Farm by Aco

More Emo on the Sales Floor!

Aco Germany is the sales agency, The Farm the consulting agency. Michael Schulz and Jane Munro-Hall are eager to emphasise this division of competence to make it more tangible for retailers. Aco continues to stand for premium fashion in Germany (and sometimes Austria) with brands such as Pinko, Tara Jarmon, and Seventy. Together, Aco and The Farm offer all-round service for which it teams up with various experts. “The Farm was launched to charge the point of sale with more emotions”, says Schulz. “Our pop-up at the KaDeWe Berlin, where we presented lifestyle products such as fashion, perfume, books, and gadgets, generated great sales and received extremely positive feedback.” The See Now - Buy Now principle guarantees that trendy articles can be delivered within three weeks. “It’s not about being cheap and fast. We strive to show new products within the season. This allows us to limit the sales phase in the retail trade a little”, Schulz adds. Examples are blazers by Sorbé, hand-crafted shoes by Kaleens, and headphones by Happy-Nes. The latter are Apple headphones wrapped in colourful yarns - a real fashion statement. The Concept Product unit bundles all in-house labels for retailers. They offer special fashion pieces aimed at emphasising a retailer’s profile.

Eywa Souls Malibu is among the new additions.

The label was launched by Munro-Hall together

Room with a view

Doing Good with Los Angeles-based business partner Jose Stemkens-Welliver. It specialises in maxi dresses that are suitable for the beach and everyday life. The average purchase price of dresses made of cotton-voile stands at 80 Euros. Dresses made of chiffon cost 90 Euros, while silk dresses cost 180 Euros. The mark-up is 2.8. The first customers in Germany and Switzerland are Jades, Lodenfrey, 58’s by Jutta Heidt, and Jelmoli Zurich.

Labels: among others Eywa Souls Malibu, Iceberg, John Richmond, Just Cavalli, Kaleens, Marciano Los Angeles, Parosh, Pinko, Pinko Jeans, Plein Sud Jeanius, Purotatto, Quantum Courage, Roots & Roofs, Serapian, Seventy, Sorbé, Svnty Antwerp, Tara Jarmon, Versace Collection, White Sand Aco Modeagentur, Düsseldorf/ Germany, kontakt@acomode.de, www.acomode.de The Farm, Düsseldorf/Germany, grow@thefarmbyaco.de, www.thefarmbyaco.de

The dining rooms of a former boarding school for girls - once again located in Munich-Schwabing - are the new premises of Die Hinterhofagentur.

Die Hinterhof­ agentur

Hinterhof Goes Hinterhof

When visiting the Meuers in their charming backyard showroom in Schwabing one tends to marvel at the fact that a place like this still exists in the heart of Munich. However, a property developer has now recognised the potential of the premises too. Luckily, this does not mean that Dominik Meuer and his team are “homeless”.

In fact, the agency has found a new home in another backyard location. “We would have had to change our name if we hadn’t”, Meuer laughs. From November onwards, Die Hinterhofagentur will reside in the former dining rooms of a boarding school for girls in “Römerstrasse” (incidentally also in Schwabing). “It’s a wonderful location with high ceilings, old windows, and a touch of patina. It’s exactly what we love and what we stand for”, the agency owner gushes. The new location offers more space, which plays into the hands of the growth strategy of the agency and its portfolio brands. Compared to the early days, when the agency merely focused on menswear, Die Hinterhofagentur now offers a balanced portfolio of womenswear and men’s collections. The team now consists of a total of five employees, who serve customers all year round. The regulars within the portfolio, such as Bob and Des Petits Hauts, have performed admirably. Bob, which was initially known for its polos, has developed into a complete collection that will soon be available for women too.

Labels for women: Cape Horn, Des Petits Hauts, Ginger & Ruby, Hod, Labdip, My Sunday Morning, Rose & Rose, The Jacksons, Wyse Labels for men: Bob, Breco’s, Cape Horn, Koike, Portofiori, Re.Ve 77, Uniform, Wool & Co Die Hinterhofagentur, Munich/Germany, d.meuer@diehinterhofagentur.de, www.diehinterhofagentur.de

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Taking Nepal to the next level… In October, Christian Obojes, the founder of room with a view, and a handful of trekking enthusiasts set yet another milestone in terms of relief for Nepal. Following the devastating earthquake, the fashion agency and the brand Warm-Me, which produces its items in Nepal, collected donations for the poverty-stricken country. One year after the catastrophe, they organised a trekking tour to hand over aid in person. Obojes: “In my opinion, the best way to help is to promote local businesses. By travelling to these countries, we ensure work for Sherpas and foreign money gets the economy back on track.” These trekking trips are always a mixture of adventure, relief work, and cultural experience. Obojes plans to organise such tours once a year. In October this year, it’s all about donations and materials to finance reconstruction. The funds collected by room with a view and Warm-Me will be used for building a shelter on a pass that connects the more touristic Everest area with the poorer Rolwaling valley. The Nepal charity of Josef Einwaller intends to build a further shelter directly on a pass at an altitude of 5,800 metres. The two huts will make the touristic development of the Rolwaling valley possible. To date, only extremely skilled mountaineers dare to cross the dangerous pass. The two shelters will also act as a refuge for locals on the route. “The Rolwaling valley is one of the last insider tips in the Himalayas. By making it accessible for ordinary trekking groups, we hope to promote regional tourism in a lasting manner.”

Labels : 7 for all mankind, Annabel Ingall, Alto Milano, Arrk, Articles of Society, Better Rich, D.a.t.e., Deus ex Machina, Ecoalf, Happy Socks, Laidback London, Lovat & Green, Moon Boot, Moose Knuckels, Opportuno, Osvaldo Trucchi, Pomandére, R13, RRD, Roque, Stand Stockholm, Steven-K, Swell, The White Brand, TKees, Veja, Warm-Me, White Sand, Xacus Donna room with a view, Salzburg/Austria, office@roomwithaview.at, www.roomwithaview.at

On-site relief and sustainable tourism in Nepal is close to the heart of Christian Obojes, the founder of room with a view.

SPRING / SUMMER / 2018

www.bloom-fashion.com

024 right

now agencies

Säck & Nolde Online Concept Store to

Celebrate 25th Anniversary

Manfred Säck and Klaus Nolde launched their business in Bochum in 1992. To this day, the company is headquartered in the heart of the German “Ruhrgebiet”, a central location and an excellent hub for sales within Europe. Over the past 25 years, Säck & Nolde has been the sales representative for brands such as Amos, Clarks Originals, Emily The Strange, Manhattan Portage, Odd Future, Paul Frank, Silas, and Spiewak. Over time, the agency’s brand and customer portfolio in the segments of street fashion, lifestyle, tech, travel, design, home interior, footwear, toys, and tobacco has evolved steadily. The sales area has expanded continuously and Säck & Nolde has managed to establish itself as a premium distributor with a global network.

To mark its 25th anniversary, the agency launched its own online concept store: “Sehr Goods - General Supply Store”. “The site sehrgoods.com not only offers clothes by Stüssy, X-Large, and other brands from our portfolio, but also accessories, shoes, bags, books, art, food, and limited editions. It’s all about offering our customers everyday goods that mirror recent market developments, but haven’t been offered in Europe in this constellation yet”, Nolde explains. “The range of sehrgoods.com includes classic and authentic brands such as Braun, Field Notes, Kaweco, Modernica, and Pendleton. In short, individual products of highest quality…”, Säck adds. As the operator of the German online store for US tech-travel gear and Apple accessories brand incase (www.goincase.de), Säck & Nolde have many years of experience in e-retailing. In addition, the agency has been running a Stüssy Chapter Store in Amsterdam since September 2017.

Labels: 40’s & Shorties, Blunt Wrap, Grenco Science, Incase, Jason Markk, Malibu Sandals, Native Union, Stüssy, Stüssy Women, Uglydoll, X-Large Säck & Nolde GmbH & Co KG, Bochum/Germany, T. 0049.234.893980, www.saeckundnolde.de Manfred Säck und Klaus Nolde of Säck & Nolde.

Leather specialist Stouls is particularly competent in terms of colours.

Modeagentur Anke Burkhardt

Only Salt

Repositioning her agency has certainly paid off for Anke Burkhardt.

This is reflected in the feedback from existing and new customers who visited her in the temporary showrooms in Düsseldorf and Munich. “The focus on modern lines and formulating a clear message was well-received. As an agency, it is essential to communicate a clear identity”, the agency owner says.

“This often involves labels which don’t generate immediate profit.

However, my customers want the proverbial ‘salt in the soup’ - and I only offer the salt.” Two Japanese labels were recently added to the portfolio. Pas de Calais is a thoroughly Japanese business despite the French name. It is a sensual, incredibly elaborate, and exciting collection that pays homage to the rugged beauty of the region surrounding the French city of Calais. The driving force behind Base Mark, which also hails from Japan, is a company that manufactures fabrics. This means that the young label can - from time to time - produce special items that others can’t afford to offer due to high fabric order volumes. Anke Burkhardt is extremely satisfied with the performance of Suzusan, a cashmere collection by German-Japanese de-

317 style in progress

Moormann & Co.

Strong in Colours

Anke Burkhardt’s portfolio is extraordinary and a perfect match for the peak fashion segment.

signer Hiroyuki Murase, who relies on his family’s Shibori technique to achieve truly unique looks.

Labels: 17 Stephanie Schneider, Base Mark, Laura Angillieri, Suzusan, Pas de Calais, Wommelsdorff Modeagentur Anke Burkhardt, Pahlen/Germany, info@ankeburkhardt.de, www.ankeburkhardt.de

Stouls, a Parisian leather collection in an urban, minimalistic look, is one of the core labels of Moormann & Co. Owner Aurélia Stouls is a trained shoemaker. The very first piece she designed was a white leather t-shirt that still forms the core of every collection, complemented by leggings, dresses, tops, and skirts. Stouls specialises in leather dyed in shades like petrol, Jamaica green, statement colours, and finest safari tones. Unfleur of Italy focuses on outdoor leather. It offers light lambskin jackets and coats in styles ranging

from couture to ethnically inspired looks. Valérie Khalfon of Paris specialises in feminine lace, while Stephan Boya of Hamburg relies on high-end cashmere and special knitting techniques. In terms of menswear, the agency represents the outdoor label Gimo’s, which utilises materials such as leather, nylon, and down.

Project E offers summer polo shirts from the US, while Zanieri specialises in Italian cashmere. The portfolio is complemented by men’s jewellery, belts, and key chains

by D’amico.

Klara and Timo Moormann strive to stand for service.

This not only includes close cooperation with labels that consider the trends and requirements of the market, but also special products that - in collaboration with sustainable, smaller companies - are perfect, high-quality take-away items for especially valuable customers. One example is Cashmere Doc, a South German manufacturer of a vegan Fine Cashmere Shampoo that is also suitable for silk and cotton.

Labels: Andrea Ventura, Charli, D’amico, Gimo’s, Kathleen Madden, Lener, Project E, Stephan Boya, Stouls, Unfleur, Valérie Khalfon, Zanieri Moormann & Co, Düsseldorf/ Germany, k.moormann@moormann-co.com, www.moormann-co.com

right now

026

fairs

Panorama Berlin

Synergy and Suspense

As of January 2018, Panorama Berlin and Selvedge Run will share the premises of Messe Berlin. The Selvedge Run will take place in the Marshall House and - just like the Panorama Berlin - retain its independence as a “Trade Show for Quality Garments and Crafted Goods”. “The combination of the successfully established Nova Concept of Panorama Berlin and Selvedge Run creates a sensible thematic supplement for the market”, explains Jörg Wichmann, the managing director of Panorama Fashion Fair Berlin GmbH. “For us, the cooperation means an opportunity to continue developing the portfolio of Nova Concept. The result is a highly interesting range of offers for the denim and progressive casual markets, which has a huge appeal to national and international trade visitors.”

Previously, the Selvedge Run took place five times at Kulturbrauerei Prenzlauer Berg. The two formats also intend to cooperate in terms of visitor service. The common goal is to strengthen Berlin as a trade show location for international professionals. 16th to 18th of January 2018, www.panorama-berlin.com

What’s new? The Premium Group constantly fine-tunes its portfolio to ensure that it can offer the industry all the latest trends. Photo: Premium

Premium Group

Forward-Looking

For #Fashiontech, the conference forum of the Premium trade show, Premium Group has entered into a partnership with Messe Frankfurt. The event, which has been expanded in terms of content, will relocate to Kraftwerk Berlin. “Fashiontech is the topic of the future. The last six events with up to 4,000 participants have shown us which issues and priorities we need to focus on”, says Anita Tillmann, the managing partner of Premium Group. “It’s the perfect time to lift the format to the next level and to expand the topics digitisation in marketing and PR, e-commerce, and future of retail by adding sustainability and technical textiles.” In January, the #Fashiontech format will take place on the first floor of Kraftwerk Berlin over two days during the Berlin Fashion Week. Messe Frankfurt’s two eco-fashion events, namely Greenshowroom and Ethical Fashion Show, will occupy the ground floor and mezzanine. The Show & Order, on the other hand, will move into the vacated area of the Kühlhaus in Station-Berlin. On six open floors, it will present approximately 200 collections of fashion, interior items, and beauty.

The main trend themes of Premium Group, which also includes the trade fair formats Seek and Bright, are streetwear, outdoor, food, and retail experience. “Our events are formats that go beyond pure transaction platforms. We transform the point of sale into a point of experience”, Tillmann explains. “We create the platforms at which the industry meets, exchanges information, and does business. What motivates us is the desire to innovate, to define the newest trends every season, and to translate for the industry.” 16th to 18th of January 2018, www.premium-group.com

317 style in progress

The Festival for Timelessness provides an optimal stage for timeless art and individual craftsmanship.

New Heritage – The Festival for Timelessness

Regional Quality and Innovative Design

The fashion world is loud, colourful, and highly divergent - that’s the general consensus. If one looks closely, it becomes clear that this stereotype isn’t accurate. The individuals behind the trade fair New Heritage strive to award visitors an opportunity to look closely. The first event took place on Munich’s Praterinsel in April 2017. It afforded exhibitors a stage for authentic, individual fashion, as well as craft and lifestyle products. The approx. 70 exhibitors were thrilled to welcome 5,200 visitors over a weekend. Based on this experience and the positive feedback, initiator Moritz Fuchs has decided not to limit his festival to Munich. On the 4th and 5th of November

2017, the New Heritage will therefore, for the first time, take place in Düsseldorf’s Stahlwerk before returning to Bavaria in 2018. The second New Heritage event in Munich will play host to 90 exhibitors. 4th and 5th of November 2017 at Stahlwerk Düsseldorf, 5th and 6th of May 2018 at Praterinsel Munich, www.new-heritage.de

16—18 JANUARY 2018

W W W.PANORAMA-BERLIN.COM

shaping identities

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8 1 l l Fa

www.sportalm.at / shop.sportalm.at

030 THE LONGVIEW

317 style in progress

THE LONGVIEW 031

Stephan Huber: “style in progress is Like a Personal Conversation”

style in progress 317

032 THE LONGVIEW

W

hich kind of retail industry will we require in the future? What effect will digitalisation have?

Which kind of lobbying does the industry need?

And what does the future hold for trade journalism?

The 20th anniversary of style in progress calls for a different Longview.

Publisher Stephan Huber speaks with Joachim Schirrmacher, who shaped the magazine as author and editor-in-chief until 2008.

Interview: Joachim Schirrmacher.

Photos: Bernhard Musil

It’s nice to not have to ask the questions for a change: Stephan Huber in an interview conducted by Joachim Schirrmacher (left).

Congratulations on 20 years of style in progress. Which feeling prevails?

I feel gratitude that there have been - and still are - so many people, businesses, authors, and employees who have been willing to tread this path with me. Many of them have become friends.

And I myself have learned a lot on the way.

What was the key to success?

There was something in the air back then. I could sense that something new was happening on all levels: consumers, retailers, communication. And there was a new look.

It was a completely different language, a more relaxed approach, and a certain sense of humour.

We strived to create a magazine that corresponds to the feel and imagery of the industry: creative, cool, and emotional. The second key factor was our analysis of the changes in the industry and society itself. We were never really overly interested in whether green or blue is the next big colour.

Among other things, yes. I believe that we, as a magazine, actually contributed to coining that term. It was a crucial point in terms of a stylistic and social change that has continued to this day. Segmentations, such as

We certainly were - and still are to this day. From the outset, we have always dared to think outside the box and have had a completely different view on a number of topics. We were

What was the impulse behind launching style in progress?

The so-called New Menswear?

317 style in progress

Classic or Young Fashion, and age groups became irrelevant. It’s been all about style ever since.

We were eager to reflect and shape this development.

People in the industry always say that you are different‌

034 THE LONGVIEW

among the first to define topics relevant to the industry. One example is the fundamental change within the trade fair environment.

Our magazine featured what the industry was discussing…

In some cases, we were the ones who started the discussion! The discount madness, incorrect rhythms, and the deregulation of sales, to name but a few. At the same time, it has always been clear that we believe the culture and social significance of the specialised retail trade is essential in terms of, for example, liveable and functioning cities. Our approach has always been that it is easier to explain things in positive

“I perceive journalism as a fundamentally constructive force.”

examples than to succumb to negative alarmism. I perceive journalism as a fundamentally constructive force. And we have always strived to be a lobbying magazine for the specialised retail trade.

To what extent did these impulses fall upon fertile ground?

One should never take oneself too seriously, but I believe that we have actually succeeded in starting or spurring on a number of discussions and debates.

In hindsight, it becomes clear that many opinion pieces from 20 or 15 years ago are still valid today.

I was equally amazed that some topics, such as delivery rhythms or the function and significance of trade shows, have been accompanying us since the beginning. In retrospect, we have defined the direction quite clearly.

Companies strive to exert more control on communication. How does this affect a trade magazine?

In many respects, it doesn’t bode well. The desire to obtain full control over communication always carries the risk that stories become boring. However, I have led many interviews that resulted in very different conversations due to truly exciting approaches.

How critical can modern-day journalism be?

317 style in progress

I was never interested in criticism for criticism’s sake. The main issue is to grasp a topic and to write what needs to be written about it. The intention should always be to provide positive impulses.

Digitalisation certainly also has a strong influence on journalism.

As a trade magazine, we are affected by the same challenges that have changed the face of journalism as a whole. Digitalisation has, in many ways, established the problematic real-time principle…

You mean the need to report something before it has actually happened?

Many media outlets believe that technology forces them to focus on speed rather than content. The impact on journalism is massive, even fatal in terms of political journalism.

I’m not criticising digitalisation, but the way the new possibilities are being dealt with. A lot of it is still uncharted territory, to quote Angela Merkel. The question is how one positions oneself. style in progress was never a news tool as such. We stand for analysis, focus topics, and stories. We are a magazine for people who are still willing to read. We take the liberty to afford ourselves a comparatively expensive type of journalism. Our aspiration is to really develop a topic. For example, our focus on the “Fun” topic was especially rewarding.

However, a new generation of managers relies heavily on the newest social media hypes rather than on in-depth industry knowledge.

That’s quite logical when something is new. These new media channels offer fantastic possibilities, at least if you understand them. But I don’t see a contradiction to print media or the principle of slowness. The radio didn’t disappear with the advent of television. On the contrary, it’s more diverse than ever.

The magazine addressed e-retailing very early. However, style in progress was rather late in terms of its own web presence.

First of all, one should do what one does best. style in progress is - and remains - a print magazine. But I would, of course, also like the chance to react directly to certain topics with analyses or an opinion piece online. Furthermore, we strive to utilise the web to increase the exposure of our stories.

It would be fashionable to record our interview from four different angles as a video.

Yes, but maybe that would merely come across as vain. Today, one is bombarded with information. We really need to ask ourselves honestly if we can contribute something of significance. I believe that there will be an “analogue backlash” in a certain target group. One will never be able to replace a personal conversation with technology. We’re sitting here right now, talking face to face. style in progress is like a personal conversation.

What were the three most significant changes within the publishing company during the last 20 years?

The first answer is as boring as it is obvious: digitalisation. Let’s be pragmatic. If you wanted to convert a lead image in A4 from colour to black-and-white 20 years ago, it took 10 minutes. Today, it’s done in a blink.

The second change is the fact that it is so much easier to obtain information. At the same time, it has become more difficult to evaluate the relevance of information.

The third change is a radical social change. At the outset, we realised that age limits have disappeared. This dissolution means that the young generation has lost its territories, including protest movements and subcultures. Just visit a rock concert today! The driving force behind fashion has always been the youth: jeans, young fashion, club wear, fashion sport. The tables have well and truly turned. On the other hand, which table hasn’t turned over the last 20 years? The only constant in all this

“I was never interested in criticism for criticism’s sake.”

is that Cafe Gilli in Florence is still the main meeting place during the Pitti Uomo. Although they have also remodelled the cafe. Today, it’s more a ritual than spontaneity.

How do you define fashion today?

Funnily enough, the industry seems to be struggling with the term, mainly because everything has become so frayed. Is Primark fashion? Is Supreme for Louis Vuitton fashion?

036 THE LONGVIEW

Is that a hint of a so-called “Merkel Rhombus”? Probably not, even though Stephan Huber and his team are always especially interested in uncharted territory, in all imaginable facets.

When she sat down with Jil Sander, Ingeborg Harms wrote: “For years, everything that has been on the catwalks has been out of touch with reality.”

At the end of the day, every successful industry needs to focus on consumers. One needs to understand their emotional needs. Fashion was and still is - extremely business-driven. Growth is an end in itself. In many cases, consumers have been left aside. They are told that what they buy today is old tomorrow.

The only reason behind this was an economic ideology that tried to persuade everyone that people would buy more - and more often - if they are offered more. It was always clear that this couldn’t work in the long run, but it made the likes of TK Maxx so large. What irony…

317 style in progress

How do you perceive the future of the fashion system?

The decisive factors will be the answers that fashion finds to the challenges posed by digitalisation.

This is not limited to online retailing. That sector will also experience its own moment of truth. A few large companies and niche providers will survive. There is, however, no absolutism of digitalisation. In our segment, namely the premium segment, fashion will always remain a people business, because that’s what corresponds to human psychology. There will still be a high demand for direct exchange; therefore there’ll also still be a high demand for excellent specialised retailers. Furthermore, there’ll be an increased demand for products that tell a story, respectively for indi-

viduals who can convey them in a credible manner.

Did the industry miss a few opportunities in the process?

Not in the sense that they are actually missed. On the contrary, I see great opportunities for Europe, not only as a centre of knowledge and creativity, but also as a production location. The idea that globalisation means that one half of the world thinks while the other half assembles everything was insanely arrogant and - at the same time naive. Naturally, these countries develop their own needs, their own creativity. Conversely, one can sense that the questions where something is produced and - quite pragmatically - what makes sense are becoming increasingly important. The discomfort caused by old-school globalisa-

THE LONGVIEW 037

tion has triggered a concrete desire for change. I believe that this niche is much larger and more promising than we tend to believe.

What type of retailer is successful today?

The retailer who has internalised the classic abilities and values and is capable of transferring it to today.

In terms of customers, it’s all about attention, a healthy way of communicating, interest, and knowledge - in short: the simplest forms of human psychology. However, there was a belief that one can save on that front. Perhaps e-commerce has shown many retailers that they have forgotten or neglected a wide range of core competences.

Technology is destined to do that in the future. The app opens, the salesperson sees what you bought, and predicts what you’re likely to spend.

This process will be refined, but it will never ever replace the moment when one’s heart comes into play.

How is this supposed to work though if even the good fashion houses only employ 10% of its staff as permanent workers and another 10% as part-timers while 80% are mere temps?

This is, of course, one of the central problems. If customers feel their experience resembles nothing more than a visit to a self-service store, then there are few arguments in favour of it. There are so many wonderful and fantastic examples

“Technology will never ever replace the moment when one’s heart comes into play.” too though. However, the competition is different today. It requires solutions that individual retailers cannot shoulder alone. Today, it’s all about reaching customers at the exact time they are willing to spend money: 365 days, 24 hours. Just think about it for a minute: rainy Sunday - online, bad Tatort episode - online, bad football game - online.

The stores aren’t allowed to be open at those times. Politicians need to consider how our communities and cities are supposed to work. They

need to think about how one can create fair market conditions for both stationary and online retailers.

This brings us back to the fact that the industry needs lobbying.

Lobbying means defining topics and deciding who to tell about them. Then one needs to lobby with politicians and ministries for years.

There’s no one who can approach the politicians. This is a task that the industry quite simply can’t tackle on its own. Even the media very rarely reports sincerely on fashion issues.

We addressed the criticism of the fashion media in our third issue.

However, fashion has to take some of the blame too, especially as it isn’t willing to actively explain itself to the people.

It would be very important for the fashion industry to understand itself as a community again. All members need each other and should think about how they can contribute.

According to the local trade association, the number of German textile retailers has halved to 18,000 over the last 20 years. Will you continue to be an advocate for owner-managed specialised retailers?

Absolutely! The specialised retail industry meets very basic needs: heart, emotionalising, creating experiences. The fact that the number has halved sounds brutal, but let’s not forget that the sales areas have increased massively too. Vertically integrated retailers, mono-brand stores - the competitive situation for multi-brand retailers had already changed radically before the digital revolution started. Allow me to be harsh and paint a picture that won’t happen. If 5,000 really excellent retailers survive, then that would be better than having loads of half-hearted retailers.

Let’s wrap up the interview with a few personal questions. What were your most memorable encounters?

Looking back I’d say the interviews with Massimo Osti and Francois Girbaud… They were the reasons that I invented “The Longview” format. To me, a cover interview seemed like a good argument to make these encounters happen in the first place.

“Fashion will always remain a people business.”

What was your best idea so far?

Without question, launching the magazine…

What was your greatest personal success?

Creating a magazine like this from scratch with zero financial backing.

One is more likely to find you in your mountain hut with your two children than at a trade show.

What motivates you professionally?

I’m motivated by the joy of telling stories about fashion as a future-oriented and knowledge-driven business sector and as a mirror of our society. It’s true that I’m not the kind of person who enjoys hanging out at events. I have more fun when I can talk to people and learn something.

Would such a small, select group of retailers be sufficient to maintain the necessary industry structures ranging from producers to trade shows?

I think it would. When the Bread & Butter was in its prime, when all mega names of the industry exhibited, it represented, in numbers, 20% of the jeans market. Nevertheless, there is way too much of everything: too much sales area, too many providers, too many outlets, and too many magazines. The fashion industry has tried to outsmart the simplest economic laws over a long period of time. This can’t work in the long term. style in progress 317

luistrenker.com

WIR GRATULIEREN ZU 20 JAHREN STYLE.

Und wünschen Euch viele weitere Jahre in Progress.

KITZBÜHEL — WIEN — INNSBRUCK — SYLT — WOLKENSTEIN — BRENNER

040 WHAT'S THE STORY

Where Are We Heading?

Where Are We Heading?

COMMUNICATION AND JOURNALISM

Celebrating 20 years of style in progress is not only a good time for a retrospective, but also for an outlook.

We sat down with a few industry professionals.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper, Kay Alexander Plonka. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler 317 style in progress

WHAT'S THE STORY 041

Where Are We Heading?

Josef Einwaller, owner of Einwaller

MESSAGE OF

Awakening

“Communication is breaking new ground. Through Facebook, I am, so to speak, connected to the whole world. It enabled my donation request for my aid project in Nepal to reach a much larger audience than I could have any other way. It’s both good and bad. The reach of social media is enormous. After all, Trump won the election campaign by utilising new media channels. As a fashion retailer, we also need to be very effective both offline and online, even though we still generate most of our revenue in our stores in Innsbruck. We need to focus our range. The same applies to journalism, by the way. It is important not to bore people with random things; one needs to get to the point. What catches the attention of the reader? What attracts a customer’s interest? It is a message of awakening. Those who have failed to invest in digitalisation may as well close down, because - in that case - even the most beautiful fashion store is superfluous.”

Fast-Moving, ATMOSPHEREGordon Giers, MD of Closed

INDUCING

Speed WINS

Henrik Soller, MD of Komet und Helden

“I rarely read newspapers and trade publications these days, mainly because they have become too slow. Or maybe it’s a case of online news having become too fast. Speed has become paramount; it is now one of the most important business criteria. However, the new media channels should not be seen as a replacement for their classic counterparts, much in the same way that e-retailing is not a replacement for stationary fashion stores.

Most businesses pursue a dual strategy.

Many newspaper publishers utilise social media channels and even earn money by doing so. However, no medium is fully protected against mistakes and poor research. This applies to online news, renowned broadsheets, and tabloids. The business of the latter is even defined by fast headlines. And let’s not forget that the definition of well-researched journalism is highly subjective anyway.”

“Personally, I believe that social media and journalism have different impacts, because they fulfil different purposes. Nevertheless, both forms of communication have their justification.

Social media news is fast-moving and atmosphere-inducing. It has become an integral part of life. Journalism, on the other hand, is based on in-depth research of complex topics, reflects, and serves the reader as a profound source of information. I am convinced that both forms can coexist and even complement each other.”

style in progress 317

042 WHAT'S THE STORY

Where Are We Heading?

Anna Schunck, journalist at www.viertel-vor.com

OFFER MORE

Value

“In the fashion sector, journalism plays - at best - a classical role: a particularly journalistic role, so to speak. In my opinion, reporting on fashion should and will develop in a more critical direction, not least in order to deliberately and clearly turn away from what reporting doesn’t want to be: advertising. That would be too predictable and is - in the long term - not interesting for increasingly enlightened readers. Furthermore, the growing interest in slow fashion increases the demand for information and facts beyond aesthetics and entertainment. This is where fashion journalists are encouraged to offer more value, clarify, classify, and analyse. This can all be conveyed in a manner worthy of fashion: with fun and style! In this context, nobody should shy away from utilising modern tools like blogging, personalisation, and social media trends.”

SHORTER, Sharper, AND MORE FREQUENTLY Dr. Marcel Braun, CEO of Holy Fashion Group

“Excellent journalism has always played an important role in the fashion industry and will continue to do so in the future. It is vital to understand fashion and to highlight the big issues.

While these big issues were once determined by a handful of journalists and editors, digitalisation has paved the way for many smaller publishers such as bloggers and even consumers. Today, classic journalism has to earn its role as opinion-maker. This is only achieved by those who communicate shorter, sharper, and more frequently. At the same time, the content needs to be relevant on numerous channels, as well as orchestrated both online and offline for reinforcement. This is the only way to distinguish oneself from the mass of broadcasters and reach consumers.”

317 style in progress

Julia Freitag, fashion stylist & consultant at Styleproofed

Outrage

TIME FOR

“Just like ‘in the rest of the world’, journalism - as in the work of reporters, writers, and editors - is becoming increasingly important. It is the only regulator, the fourth power - both in world politics and the fashion industry. When mass efficiency, sales, and the ‘See Now - Buy Now’ principle become the only determining parameters, the industry will kill itself sooner rather than later. This is when honest and passionate fashion journalism that isn’t driven by advertising can hold the balance and maybe even become the saviour of our - unfortunately - rather troubled industry. When reach is more important than content and mass-suitable conformity is more important than edginess, conducive delimitation that leads to rebellion and its inherent creativity, movement, and passion for fashion, then we haven’t done our job properly. Dear fellow journalists and colleagues, let me quote Stephan Hessel. ‘Be outraged! It’s about time…’”

044 WHAT'S THE STORY

Where Are We Heading?

Opinion Making

Tobias Gröber, head of consumer goods trade shows at Messe München

BEDROCK OF

“Communication has changed quite dramatically in the digital mobile age.

Everyone of us can communicate with others at any time anywhere in the world. Each of us now has the ability to produce news. The high frequency in terms of news requires that information is prepared and displayed in a solid manner. Therefore, well-researched journalism remains very important and will become even more important in the future. It is the bedrock on which we form our opinions, be it on political, social, or economic issues.”

Value

Christian von Daniels, CEO and managing partner of van Laack

CREATE REAL ADDED

“The challenge for publishers and editors is to link the traditional tasks of journalism - researching, providing information, and remaining critical - with the demands of modern, fast-paced communication channels while creating real, journalistic added value. Given the development of the readership, the greatest difficulty remains that of communicating the need for fee-based content.”

Critical COMPASS Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine

“Communication is one of the fundamental aspects of the fashion system, a reference tool for brands and designers to assert their stylistic, social, and cultural identity. And fashion is certainly one of the grounds on which we can experiment more in terms of communication, in which you can launch new models and new trends that can then be implemented in other sectors. In the future, I see a growing importance of communication that goes through social networks, and especially communication with high visual impact: I refer to tools like Instagram and its increasingly crucial role in fashion - a less textual communication instead of a more visual one. Journalism is - and will - remain a crucial instrument to tell more about fashion, to go deeper into its stories, trends, and protagonists.

It’s a compass to navigate in the world of communication with a critical perspective, to go deeper into news and stories, which is increasingly important in many aspects.”

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The Wetterfleck parka is perfect for smart and sporty occasions.

It is manufactured using the pure wool alpin loden cloth, meaning that it is extremly resistant against rain, wind and snow.

gluecklich.it Eppan / SĂźdtirol

046 WHAT'S THE STORY

Where Are We Heading?

Depth

Nicole Bailly, managing director of Departmentgreen GmbH

MAINTAIN

“We believe in journalism and communication.

Even in times when the attention span of readers and consumers is decreasing, journalism remains relevant as a reputable corrective. This is not only my wish as someone who works with journalists, but also as a consumer. It is vital for good journalism to use the different communication platforms, especially as every story has a suitable medium and can be told in different ways. That’s one of the advantages of our time. However, it is paramount that journalism maintains its depth. After all, a journalistic review no longer ends with the last word. This presents an even bigger challenge for journalism in the future.

Right now - following the repositioning of George Gina & Lucy and due to a growing presence on the market - the brand has a lot to tell. That’s why we value classic journalism so much and depend on its credible, authentic communication.”

Quality AND SPEED

Lorenzo Osti, Head of Marketing of C.P. Company

and Integrity RELIABILITY

„Communication and journalism have always been essential partners for brands. They have created trends and often been essential for the success of a brand. Today, it is still the same. While in the past it was all about one-way communication from the media to the public, today - in a 2.0 communication arena - the way trends are born is much less predictable. Mainly because the scenario is much more crowded and complex: media companies, independent blogs, social media influencers, consumers, etc. Even though I see this as a very positive evolution that has opened new, important opportunities, I believe that today - in a world where everybody has the possibility to express themselves in front of a wide audience and in a scenario where original content and native advertising often blend into each other - the reliability and integrity of the professional journalists are essential values that will become more and more important in terms of identifying reliable information sources in a world of noise.”

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Kristian W. Andersen, fashion director at CIFF Copenhagen

“Today, access to knowledge and news is at our fingertips whenever and wherever we want it. With that come great demands and high expectations in terms of being constantly active and relevant on various digital platforms and social media. The advantages of communicating digitally are instant responses and the ability to reach a broader audience.

The flip-side is the increasing need of people to be stimulated by images, videos, and news stories. The process of researching, planning, and digging deep into the stories you want to communicate can be challenging when the deadline is never tomorrow, but always today and right now. Today, the goal of communicating is more about reaching the masses and going viral rather than creating actual content. On the other hand, if you manage to figure out how to combine good journalism with the fast-paced digital world, the outcome can be powerful.”

GAASTRA Deutschland · E. F. Sportswear GmbH & Co. KG · Mittelweg 118 · 20148 Hamburg T: +49 (0)40 – 46 96 66 9 – 0 · info.hamburg@ef-sportswear.de · gaastrastore.com

YESTE RDAY TO DAY 317 style in progress

TOMO RROW Shaping change in fashion: What does the fashion industry need to do to secure a successful future? It needs to embrace the ideas of those who have been accompanying style in progress for two decades. Successful fashion entrepreneurs, designers, trade show organisers, and agents who ensure that this industry remains so colourful, exciting, and visionary‌ Text: Kay Alexander Plonka, Martina Mßllner-Seybold. Photos: Ralph Mecke, Bernhard Musil, Marina Vorobyeva

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“We need to be braver. We need to react more to current political circumstances, because fashion is also a display of protest. Also, people around 50 should dare to wear more expressive things, like the younger generation has started doing again. We need more statements, not only clean and straight looks.” Winnie Klenk, Abseits Stuttgart

Valeria Caffagni, Cristina Calori, and Andrea Canè, Woolrich & WP Lavori

“We think that the most important thing for the future is how we change the relationship between consumer, retailer, and brand. In October this year, we open a new 600 sqm store in the centre of Milan. In this store, we will try to accelerate a multi-channel concept with a new approach, where online and offline are combined to the give the consumer a better feeling in relation to fashion. We have to fill the gap between buying online and stationary and create the approach of well-being. The new trends coming in are based on innovation and technology that has to be driven by quality and value, especially for men.” Andrea Canè, Woolrich & WP Lavori

“Choose well, buy less, and make it last.”

Artaud Frendy, Veja, and Christian Obojes, Room with a view

Norbert Tillmann, Karl-Heinz Müller 317 style in progress

“A global view of the business and sales structures is very important.

Consider the world as one country, focus on your DNA, and don’t waste time on doing things where you are not strong.” Michael Azoulay, CEO American Vintage

Michael Azoulay, CEO American Vintage, Judith Kessous, Sales Director American Vintage, Holger Petermann, Think Inc. Communication, and Martina Schmidl, Wholesale Director Germany & Austria American Vintage

“Brands and retailers need to guide consumers on how to make sustainable choices.”

Andrea Guardi, C.P. Company

Giuseppe D’Amore, Managing Director and Anna Perazzolo, International Customer Service Blauer USA, FGF Industry

Torsten Müller, Room Nine Agency, and Andrea Guardi, C.P. Company

Harald Heldmann, Classico and Dagmar Lange, Agentur Lange style in progress 317

Luigi Lardini, Lardini, and Michael Brockmann, Heritage Agents

“There will be two paths in the future: products made in an industrial way that are not recognisable, without any difference from one another with very low prices and a wide distribution. And on the other path expensive and exclusive products that are recognisable, because they are made with craftsmen skills. The oversupply in fashion has increased to 80 billion pieces in 2016 that’s way too much. Ten years ago it was only half that amount. We should throw away less, produce items better, and use them for a longer time, as well as combine the old with new styles that reflect a modern and improved lifestyle.” Brunello Cuccinelli, CEO and Designer

“We need to make a big change back to the roots when it was a pleasure to dress properly and combine stylistically confident pieces to a good outfit. In terms of quality and craftsmanship we should focus on the culture of dressing and wearing again.” Luigi Lardini, Lardini

“Beyond fair working conditions and the avoidance of suboptimal sales campaigns, we need courageous decision-makers who understand that stationary retailers need to offer customers honest, unique, and sustainable experiences that are impossible to generate online. If we manage to inspire our customers with products, advice, and presentation, it is possible to steer their purchasing behaviour in all directions - both online and offline. Time is a luxury.

Let’s give our customers a good reason to spend it with us.”

Markus Höhn, Lodenfrey

“Stay curious be courageous!

Elke-Cecilia Riehl, Lodenfrey

Thorsten Stiebing, Brand Director Joop and Dr. Manuel Braun, CEO, Holy Fashion Group 317 style in progress

“We need to focus our attention on really relevant things with the highest potential. Because this is the base for a serious debate about fashion.” Christiane Arp, Editor-in-Chief Vogue Germany

“The fashion industry has to prove that it deals in real values. We have to ask ourselves: What is a world without fashion? The world would be a little bit sterner without fashion - no more, no less. We should try to work with this knowledge in the future.”

Markus Meindl, CEO Meindl Fashion

Tommy Hilfiger, Daniel Grieder CEO Tommy Hilfiger

“Handle with care.”

Rolf Griesinger, Griesinger Internationale Mode GmbH

“I think we have been very greedy.

The whole world is trying to have too much. There are too many brands, too many shops, too many e-retailers, too many low cost fashion suppliers.

A lot of the world is homogenous and looks very similar.

There’s too much of everything everywhere. I believe, if we can all learn to be calmer, a little more modest, and enjoy friendship and everyday things, that would be oddly satisfying.” Paul Smith, Designer

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054 WHAT'S THE STORY YESTERDAY TODAY TOMORROW

“Water is classy. For us that means that our water world is our expression. We come from the water and would like our goods and clothing to bring people back to the water.” Roberto Ricci, RRD

René Michaelis, Michaelis Fashion Agency, and Roberto Ricci, RRD

“I am who I am.”

Lello Caldarelli, CEO and Creative Director Antony Morato

“Do it like we do: produce everything in Europe.”

Michi Klemera, Luis Trenker

Daniela Holnsteiner, Export Manager Save the Duck, and Nicolas Bargi, CEO Save the Duck

“We would like to give a good direction to ecological aspects in fashion. Everybody should be friendlier to animals and nature and respect the world that cares for us. I think that technology will allow us to generate much better results than we have right now.” Nicolas Bargi, CEO Save the Duck

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Anja Grabherr-Petter and Michael Pedratscher, Phil Petter

“I would like both retailers and consumers to develop more awareness for quality and origin, to turn their attention to honest products. The politicians should promote Central Europe as a production location in order to ensure that we can continue to produce competitively here.” Anja Grabherr-Petter, Phil Petter

Heiko Storz with his daughters Luisa (right) and Helen (left), Fil Noir/ Swiss Hest GmbH

“The further backward you can look, the further forward you can see.” Nigel Cabourn, Designer

Nigel Cabourn and Emilie Casiez, Designers

“In principle, everyone should buy things that they believe in and that convince them. We should say goodbye to excessive ephemerality.”

Klaus Kirschner, Stetson Europe

“One measure certainly isn’t enough. Globalisation, which obviously has its advantages too, takes its toll. One of my concerns is that retailers are launching sales earlier every season.

Putting summer collections on sale in April is unhealthy for both retailers and brands. If I had one wish, I would like sales to be regulated by law like back in the old days. This would also help to educate consumers to make better choices. To me, the price cannot be the main reason for a retailer’s success, although it seems to be the most compelling argument these days. However, this doesn’t avoid closures, as was impressively proven this year.” Heiko Storz, Fil Noir/Swiss Hest GmbH style in progress 317

Suzy Menkes, Vogue

Henrik Soller, Florian Ranft, Komet & Helden

“Right time, right place - it certainly worked for me… ;-)” Scott Schuman, The Satorialist

Marino Edelmann, Marco Götz, Gerrit Voss, and Fred Götz, Drykorn

“One should only do things of which one is completely convinced.

One is only good at what one does if one stands behind it 100%.

The customers notice if someone does something half-heartedly or is forcing it.” Marco Götz, Drykorn 317 style in progress

“Express yourself!”

Caro Daur, Blogger

“The future is an opportunity - and we can participate in the creation of it. I actually like the fact that we are forced to question the value of our work; that keeps us busy and alert. We constantly need to adapt to innovations and redesign our way of thinking. We have to listen, learn, and experience. But instead of being afraid, we need to embrace changes as chances for development. There always will be winners and losers. So, let’s rather work ambitiously to be on the winning side.”

Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner Premium Group

“Everyone should wear what they feel comfortable in and not necessarily give in to current trends all the time. In addition, fashion companies need to take more responsibility in terms of ensuring fair and safe working conditions, especially in the Far East. This should, by the way, also apply to their suppliers and production partners.” Bernhard Aschauer, Adventure Fashion Agency

“Function and comfort will be more and more important in the future. It’s amazing to see how people react to our products in all 35 countries we sell in, based on different tastes, different cultures, and different attitudes. It’s about how styles are interpreted in their country and so we still learn a lot every day - that’s really cool.”

Christina Paulon, Parajumpers

“Our company purpose is to create a connected European ecosystem - to re-imagine fashion for the good of all. It expresses our constant drive to innovate our industry in a way that benefits all stakeholders involved. Our vision is to connect the different players of the fashion industry, be it brands, retailers, stylists, or innovative tech companies, to create a fashion platform that caters to the individual needs of today’s customers, and to provide smart solutions that help brands and retailers to develop their business. I don’t believe in the ‘one size fits all’ solution. It’s a joint effort we need to take. Our platform strategy is both a commitment and a mindset. We want to be a driving force behind improving how the fashion industry and its players operate together.” David Schneider, CEO and Founder Zalando

Christina Paulon, Parajumpers, and Matthias Schwarte, Agentur Schwarte

style in progress 317

“I absolutely love it!”

058 WHAT'S THE STORY

Stefan Wittmann, Agentur Wittmann

YESTERDAY TODAY TOMORROW

Gordon Giers, Closed, Hirofumi Kurino, United Arrows, Till Nadler, Closed

“Producing exclusively in Italy means that it’s tougher and the margin is lower; all our work is basically done in reverse. But I love it. I want to work like this whatever happens. I believe in this approach - not in terms of money, but in terms of a way of life. There is a difference. Maybe the consumer doesn’t see it, but to me it’s real. And nothing will change that in the future.”

Daniele Fiesoli, Wool Group Italia

Marco Lanowy, Managing Partner Alberto, and Michael Willems, Product Manager Alberto

“You are here to make it happen. This is Alberto.”

Marco Lanowy, Managing Partner Alberto

“Only things that are created with good intentions will prevail.”

Kristin Versümer, Sportalm 317 style in progress

“In fashion, as in other areas, society should commit itself to a more respectful approach in terms of dealing with fellow human beings, to living in harmony with nature, and to handling the heritage of our children carefully. These are not hollow phrases, but the only way to secure future success. Otherwise, the world in which we live today will blow up in our faces. If that happens, fashion will be the last thing on humanity’s mind.” Ulli Ehrlich, Sportalm

“We must be able to protect the industry, because nobody can forecast the future. The rhythm has become very fast. And so the speed within the company needs to be adjusted to this rhythm while retaining the ability to make quick changes possible.” Luca Orsati, AT.P.CO and People of Shibuya

Mirjam Dietz, Business Development & Communications, Aline Schade, Executive Director, Vanessa Meier, Munichfashion Company

“A return to values, quality, and individualism is key for the future, because it promotes the diversity of fashion and creates desire. Modern consumers are well-informed and their future demands are the measure of all things. Sustainability will play a more important role in the future; it creates trust and contrasts. Some labels have already started producing in Europe again, mainly to safeguard quality levels and to ensure new standards.” Aline Schade, Executive Director, Munichfashion Company

“One important aspect for the future of the industry is the discount policy. The sale period starts way too early. Higher retail prices are included into the calculation to cover the discounts, but it would be better to keep the full price lower from the beginning and respect it. This better balance in the discount and pricing policy would be much healthier for the business.” Mario and Stefano Colombo, Owners of Colmar

Peter Haertel, Vestitus, and Timm Hartmann, Timm Hartmann Communications

“Everything is about personality, good sales staff, and congenial people. Those who make an effort see that it works.” Peter Haertel, Vestitus

style in progress 317

“Don’t be so ‘shoefish’.”

Etienne Manderveld, Floris van Bommel

“Less is more.”

Zeshan Ahmed, Blaumax

“Among consumers, the acceptance for products that are produced with ecological responsibility is increasing. This affords the industry an opportunity to offer an increasing volume of clothing that satisfies fashion desires without subjecting our environment to avoidable burdens. The goal must be to develop a certain sustainability in our lifestyle without losing the joy in fashion.” Sabrina Arlovic and Sonja Gregan, Blaumax

“Our company focuses on giving customers the best service and we want to offer a profitable collection. My father founded the company in 1985 and now, together with my brothers and sisters, we continue to be a good partner for our clients - that’s what is important to us in the future.” Paolo Rossi, Alpha Studio 317 style in progress

Paolo Rossi, Alpha Studio, and Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz, Agentur D-tails

“It is quite simple: products need to be fair and durable.

Combine that with creativity and the fashion industry is a great place.” Pepijn van Bommel, Floris van Bommel

“You can’t fake relevance.”

Thomas Briel, Krauts PR

“What worries me is the speed at which the industry produces redundant products. What’s ‘hot’ today, is ‘not’ tomorrow. This is an insane waste of resources. I’d like to see more focus on longevity and sustainability in terms of seasonal planning. The fact that we have summer items in the stores as soon as January - when the winter items are already on sale before the winter has even started properly - is not particularly helpful.”

Frank Spiewack, VP Global Sales & Marketing, Alchemy Equipment

Jens Eilhardt and Eva Maria Kreissl, Schneiders

“Values and attitude will be more important than ever in the future. A more proactive promotion of young design talents is just as important as an increased awareness of sustainability and a reduction in terms of ‘permanent clearance sales’.

We’d welcome a return to craftsmanship and more quality awareness in exchange for less throwaway mentality.”

Jens Eilhardt, Schneiders

Steff Hoff, Moose Knuckles, and Ben Botas, Agentur Ben and

“Paying attention to the climate change programme is important. 80 percent of our collection is made in Canada with the highest ethical standards in the world. People are always worried about the bottom line profit margin. We think there is a way to be family-orientated and care about the environment and tradition by supporting the local industry. The trend of fast fashion mass production has to retreat. I wouldn’t say that we are angels, but we do what we can to do better.”

Steff Hoff, Moose Knuckles Andrea Sanchioni, Export Area Manager and Carlo Meli, Commercial Director Liu Jo

062 WHAT'S THE STORY YESTERDAY TODAY TOMORROW

“Ranging from fair production to a respectful way of working together within the industry… The fast change of trends and the focus on marketing make people want too many things. Refocusing on your own taste and subsequently buying less would be a big step in the right direction. This focus would also make people aware of themselves again. Furthermore, designers would realise that marketing isn’t everything and that creating bestsellers isn’t the purpose of fashion.” Herbert Hofmann, Head of Buying & Creative Director Voo Store

“Excellent design and quality come at a price. We must raise and strengthen this awareness among our customers.

Price and discount battles have ensured that nobody knows what a ‘real price’ is and how it is comprised. More appreciation of producers and products would put an end to this ill-fated downward spiral that doesn’t benefit anyone, especially not the individuals who work in this industry.” Daniel Werner, Buyer Urbanwear The KaDeWe Group

“Lay back and relax!”

Noro Hoferer

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ESTE DAY OMO TO ROW DAY

064 WHAT'S THE STORY

style in progress

317 style in progress

065

20 Years…

In Progress In 1997, Colette opened its doors in Paris. What would soon become the mother of all concept stores and trigger a worldwide hype, was initially no more than a simple idea. Or maybe it was a very early perception of an epochal change. At about this time, the exponential development of globalisation started, driven by the digital revolution. We are only really beginning to understand that this development has a profound impact on consumption behaviour. Back then, the dimension of change was perhaps even more difficult to grasp. However, it was quite tangible that the demands and needs of the new target group of early adopters would change. At least for Colette Roussaux and her daughter Sarah Andelman…

I was not aware of Colette at the time. But it was quite clear to me that there was something in the air, that the fashion industry was heading towards aforementioned epochal change. This was also the reason for launching style in progress,

a magazine that would not merely represent this change and the future path of the industry, but shape it - ideally conceive it. In this respect, the title - in particular the addition “in progress” - remains the programmatic, textual guideline.

It was always our ambition to define new topics, thereby initiating debates. In all modesty, we

have succeeded in this over the last two tumultuous decades. Whether it was the emergence of a new generation of trade concepts, the radical change of the nature of trade fairs, or the critical investigation of industry rhythms that are becoming increasingly grotesque, style in progress was always right on point at a very early stage. The same applies to the future importance of specialised retailers and city centres, as well as a critical - yet calm - perspective on digital change.

Two principles have always been - and will always be paramount for us:

Photo: Markus Huber

1. It is much more exciting to show how things work (or could work) than to constantly explain how things don’t work.

One can learn so much more from positive examples than from the, unfortunately so widespread, media principle of constant alarm and negative headlines.

2. It’s a people business.

That’s why we are, above all, interested in individuals that have shaped - and are still shaping - an industry that we perceive as more exciting and challenging than ever before.

This anniversary is therefore merely a stage goal for style in progress. It’s a very satisfying one, admittedly. We are very proud of reaching this milestone, but we have already set our sights on the future.

Yours truly, Stephan Huber and the entire style in progress team

style in progress 317

1998 “I have been working on and around the human body for 30 years. In this time, I designed more than 3,000 trousers.

This work has a lot to do with sex.

That’s probably my main motivation.”

François Girbaud

“If one visits a master chef’s restaurant, one not only accepts a higher price for the food, but also for mineral water and espresso.”

Dietmar Lingg, Lingg Dornbirn

“I want to create fashion that can be worn for a long time. I believe one should

think about fashion differently than one does at the large fashion shows in Paris, Milan, or London. I believe in ‘normal’, natural clothing worn by the people on the street. My cuts are also quite classic. The only thing I add is attitude.”

Raf Simons

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067

“Fashion is my absolute passion. The little I have, I invest in fashion. It’s really the only thing that’s fun.” Adriano Pirani, then Città di Bologna, Cologne “One reason why customers buy, is because they want to belong. We are in a way - a surrogate family.”

Werner “Winni” Klenk, then co-owner of Ave Stuttgart with Stephan Kalbfell

“I’d love to be a molecule.

That would allow me to penetrate the fabric and understand it better.”

François Girbaud

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1999

„It’s about highlighting the importance of the Internet and the global exchange possibilities it offers.

Naturally, I take advantage of these possibilities; all my items are on the Internet.”

Helmut Lang

“Interior design, entertainment, and travelling are the bricks - fashion is the mortar.”

Tyler Brûlé, then publisher of Wallpaper Magazine

“The people of Germany are, in comparison to other European countries, quite reserved in terms of fashion. However, the main task for me and my team remains providing advice.”

Jutta Heidt, Fifty Eight’s Frankfurt

“It is important to me to get this one thing right!”

Sarah Andelman, Colette

“The upscale discourse about fashion is - from a structural point of view - very similar to the art discourse of the 1980s.

In part, it even being held among the same people with similar catchwords and theoretical contexts.”

Sven Gächter,

now editor-in-chief of Profil magazine (Austria) 317 style in progress

069

“The strength and concentration one needs to invest in a successful media positioning is taken away from creativity and, thus, the product. The consequence is a flattening effect.”

Massimo Osti “An original punk will always be different than those trying to be a punk.

One isn’t an aristocrat just because one dresses like Prince Charles either.

Clothing always defines. Political movements are reflected in fashion.

This was the case when the public reacted to the war, in the women’s movement, and with the hippies.”

Helmut Lang

“Our strength is to take a close look at what people want - in a very personal way.”

Kaspar Frauenschuh

“The media makes choices for the consumers by filtering out everything that isn’t streamlined.

This is an unstoppable development, but it restricts creativity severely. I notice this corset in my work too. I discard 50% of my ideas, mainly because the market isn’t ready for them.”

Massimo Osti

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2000

“Five companies are in the harbour, while approx.

2,500 companies are here at the trade show. However, everyone is making such a fuss about the five in the harbour that everyone thinks something has happened in the harbour.”

Manfred Kronen, then head of CPD

“I will never forget when - in the first season of Hugo - we organised a fashion show with three thousand people. They were all Boss customers, thus presumed Hugo customers. We showcased all three brands in succession. When Hugo was on show, I looked at the customers I had known for twenty years and studied their expressions. I could see they were happy that they didn’t have to buy the stuff, but they were thinking.

I believe that Hugo was a live-cell therapy for the entire industry.”

Werner Baldessarini

“Of course, Berlin is a metropolis in a global sense.

I doubt, however, that this is enough to create a new location capable of bringing so many different requirements together. As a trade show location, one simply cannot - with all due respect for my colleagues - compare Berlin to Cologne or Düsseldorf.”

Wilhelm Niedergöcker,

then managing director of Köln Messe

317 style in progress

“The store is based on personal reference. Despite the economic success, this concept is difficult to repeat elsewhere. The new www. offandco.com website will, as a second step, act as an order platform for people outside Munich. This is, however, still up in the air.”

Peter Stumm of Off & Co

“One can read about how to create a brand in every magazine these days.

However, the decisive factor is always forgotten. Brands always have a damn long history of their own. That element can’t be bought or retorted - that simply doesn’t work.”

Holger Jung, Jung von Matt

Is fashion a difficult topic for an advertiser?

“Absolutely. That starts with the fact that the decision makers in fashion are very ambitious in terms of creativity. Their belief is: if we can knit a pullover, then we can also knit a suitable advertisement for it.”

Jean-Remy von Matt, Jung von Matt

071

“A golden Rolex isn’t luxury.

Distance, quiet, and gardens are luxuries. In any case, I am adamant that Joop will never be connected with the term ‘lifestyle’. I have loathed that term for the last ten years.

What does this made-up word even describe? Is it binge drinking and golfing on Mallorca?

Big Brother is also a lifestyle, you know?”

Wolfgang Joop

“The real question is whether the retail industry is capable of undergoing radical changes. That’s what’s necessary.”

Jochen B. Holy

“Today, we are yet again witnessing a dissolution of the merging of gender differences, albeit in a different direction.

Our society and culture is in the process of feminisation.

Women are becoming more feminine, but so are men. The latter are gagged by their traditional roles at the end of an old and the beginning of a new century. One simply doesn’t believe in their virility and sincerity anymore.”

Wolfgang Joop

style in progress 317

2001 How does one live on a global scale? “One should simply not think about it - that’s what globalisation is all about. I never think about it, because globalisation is an invention of the media. I only perceive borders when I am asked to show a passport.”

Issey Miyake

“For me, fashion is no different to music or literature. It is a form of communication. While some communicate via melodies, harmonies, or painting, I prefer fabrics and silhouettes. Fashion is my personal tool for communicating my ideas and visions.”

Ann Demeulemeester

“We focus on customers before we think about profit. Long-term customer relationships pay off, but we have to invest in them in advance. We can cash in on those once a year. The balance has to be right in order to be ready to perform as best we can.”

Kurt Müller-Meinhard, Bruns, Oldenburg

“Vertically integrated businesses and chain stores are very welcome competitors that allow us to distinguish ourselves clearly - and fairly easily - with style, product quality, and expert advice.”

Dietmar Lingg, Lingg Fashion Dornbirn 317 style in progress

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“Fashion isn’t an art. Personally, I am a healthy, zeitgeist-oriented opportunist.

I am an opportunist in an intellectual sense. I am available for and open to prevailing trends.”

Karl Lagerfeld

Raf Simons can’t envisage transferring to one of the luxury houses such as LVMH or Gucci: “Such companies would limit my creativity too much I’d feel caged.”

Raf Simons, then visiting professor at the Vienna University of Applied Arts

“Berlin has a strong affiliation with art and culture, but not with fashion. However, the people of Berlin have a very personal attitude towards fashion. They have their own definite and individual fashion sense, which I love. Berlin is a very private matter for me. I only know one or two people there, which means I can feel completely free. That’s why I don’t really want Berlin to become a fashion city too. However, I do want Berlin to be given a chance. It is such a powerful capital. It is a city that is still recovering, is still wounded, and still needs to mature. At the same time, one can feel the strength of this city, as well as its individual, almost chaotic charm.”

Hedi Slimane, then head of design at Dior Homme

“That is precisely the problem of the German retail industry - it is no longer willing to put the customer first, regardless of the sector. Many an expert argues that the retail trade is in a kind of ‘trance’. The customer is supposed to visit the store, look around, and buy, but without asking questions or making demands. Nobody can answer the questions anyway. Temps lack qualification and there’s not enough money to pay specialists.”

Joachim Schirrmacher

“Designing fashion is hard work. Every creative process is hard work. However, the result - as in the collection - shouldn’t look like a work of hard labour. It always needs to come across as self-evident, almost casual. Do you actually care how hard a band worked when you buy a CD? Of course you don’t care…”

Ann Demeulemeester style in progress 317

2002

“The globalisation debate has shown the western world how much poverty there is in other parts of the planet. And this is where the luxury industry and its problems intersect. It has always been fairly clear that the resources of this world are not evenly distributed. However, the extent of the situation came as a surprise to many. In this context, the excessive burning of money by the so-called New Economy is a very harsh and provocative antagonism.”

Wolfgang Ley

“Naturally, fashion needs to impress on a more spontaneous level, mainly because it is so transient. However, I can merely laugh about statements like “minimalism is dead”. That’s simply nonsensical. It’s a mere headline. Minimalism isn’t a fashion phenomenon, it’s a style in itself.”

Antonio Cittero

What new look would you give President Berlusconi if you were given the chance?

“The only thing that suits a man whose mindset is caught up in the Fascism of the 1930s is a brown suit, cropped hair, and a small, square moustache. I trust you know what I mean?”

Roberto Cavalli

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“The future is now! We are living in the future!

We have to stop looking back just because it seems like the more comfortable option. People who reject modernism are scared of entering uncharted territory.” Milan Vukmirovic, then creative director at Jil Sander “Anyone who has ever ordered from Prada & Co knows the feeling of being belittled. It is a totalitarian, repulsive world.”

Marco Kunz, owner of Fidelio Zurich

“It is vital that Closed doesn’t have a German scent to it. We wouldn’t seem credible and competent on an international level.”

Gordon Giers, Closed

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2003 “Japan was all the craze first, followed by Paris, Belgium, and Italy. Now only Germany remains. German fashion, which is very grounded, fits into our time. It’s not about transparent chiffon blouses, but about the product itself.”

“For a very long time, formal clothing had a clear, functional meaning. In a society defined by work, business fashion was a necessary external statement. The strict boundaries between professional life and leisure time have, however, become increasingly blurred. This has led to a change in the underlying message of formal clothing. This doesn’t mean that it is no longer contemporary.

In my eyes, fashion is a way to stand out and be different. So when sportswear and casual fashion have become mainstream, formal wear can be a way to distinguish oneself from said mainstream.”

Terry Jones, founder of i-D Magazine

Stephan Schneider

“The ‘old’ way of delivering the majority of ordered goods in one delivery at the start of the season will no longer be possible in the future.

What we need is a staggered arrangement in several intervals. In the future, we will also pay for those goods in the same intervals.”

Walter Kirner, then chairman of Don Gil

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“The adverse situation of many retailers is a result of their rigid adherence to norms and habits. Fashion stands for change and movement, not for standstill.”

Mario Eimuth, then owner of Sarajo Munich (now stylebop.com)

“The future of luxury is no longer multiplication, but diminution. It lies in avoidance, not in accumulation.”

Hans-Magnus Enzensberger

“Consumption is boring. There is no real innovation in many areas.

Especially in the field of fashion, everything has been said, thought, and tailored.”

Matthias Horx, trend researcher

077

“Fortunately, the era of the “let’s put it all under one roof” gigantism is finally over. Commercialism and design simply don’t fit together; the same applies to the product range of a retailer.

Special products need special places!”

Anita Tillmann,

founder of Premium Exhibitions

“The specialised retail industry - not only the fashion and clothing segments - is part of the cultural identity of countries such as Italy and Germany. It determines the character of a city and is therefore indispensable. From my point of view, the industry is, however, struggling with a massive generation issue. The generation of heirs often lacks the know-how and consequence to continue developing the business. It is difficult to overcome recessive phases without these attributes. Recent developments have steadily increased the pressure on specialist retailers.”

Gildo Zegna, CEO of Ermenegildo Zegna

“The Bread & Butter will, under no circumstances, mutate into a leading trade show in the usual sense. It will not serve as a platform for the entire young fashion industry.”

Karl-Heinz Müller,

founder of Bread & Butter

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2004 “The retail trade needs reductions to a certain extent. On top of it all, we in Düsseldorf have the problem of a regional ‘top dog’ who advertises price reductions as early as May. It won’t take long until many wish for the clear legal guidelines of the past.”

Reinhard Haase, founder of Agentur Unifa

“Ultimately, clothing has always been about functionality. Every piece

of clothing serves a certain purpose. High-quality technical materials have merely expanded the range of possibilities. The aforementioned social changes have changed the demands in terms of functionality quite significantly. The qualities of today make it so much easier to deal with these new requirements precisely.”

Neil Barrett

“One needs to put a question mark behind every single purchase, without exception.

Inconsistency is something one simply cannot afford anymore.”

Karl Reyer, Reyer Hallein “While the Old Economy is shrinking, the online business is what the market demands. The customers have now learned to live with the Internet. Further­ more, the Internet - and its logistics have been expanded significantly. They are now faster and safer than before.

Today’s customers know the products very well and know what they want. They no longer need to touch and try on the clothes.”

Raffaello Napoleone,

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CEO of Pitti Immagine, on his appointment as a member of the supervisory board at Yoox

079

Mrs Stanoiu, do you feel like a member of an endangered species?

“Not at all… No other trade form can replace what we offer. We not only sell clothing, but we also sell emotions and lifestyle.”

Mirella Stanoiu, owner of Donna Group

“Every shop that is ten years old, has to be considered an old shop. Even more so when the owners are too scared to invest now. When the economy recovers, they will have an ancient store from which nobody wants to buy anything.”

Josef Einwaller, Einwaller Innsbruck

The organisers of the CPD are saying that it is nice that Berlin is having a party now, but they insist that 90% of the business is conducted in Düsseldorf. “To me, that sounds a bit like whistling in the woods. And even if that is the case, it can change. In the long run, we will need to co-operate. At the end of the day, the events are not ends in themselves, but a different form of business.”

Klaus Wowereit, then mayor of Berlin

“It’s not about how one sells clothing and suitcases or coffee and cakes, but about how to combine all elements to create an atmosphere that triggers desires. Cafés help to decelerate the dramaturgy of a store. I believe that the new slowness and speed are very important concepts for the future of retail.”

Susanne Tide-Frater, then creative

director of Selfridges

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2005 “The huge shopping centres in the suburbs are tearing the heart out of the cities.”

Sir Norman Foster

“How much identity one can afford in a globalised world?

Things that march to a completely different drum are not marketable. The current logic suggests that the market for a product increases with a lack of profile. Will we end up with a global ’Esperanto of Style’ with an alphabet that ranges from Armani to Zara? Or will there be renewed interest in textile dialects?”

“In the future, we intend to pursue a 4-season policy, mainly because we believe that is a necessary reaction to the changing needs of the retail industry. The more frequent turnover of product ranges is a decisive factor in today’s high-end segment.”

Lothar Reiff, then head of

creation and licensing at Hugo Boss

Joachim Schirrmacher

“In the past, the fashion community debated whether it wants one or two buttons, single-breasted or double-breasted. Today the question is whether denim is up-and-coming.

Will denim stay in fashion? Which washes are in?”

Carl Tillessen, then managing director at Firma

“As part of societal change, time has also become an economic factor for consumers. This affects our consumption behaviour. In the discount segment, people invest time to save money. In the premium segment, they spend money to save time.”

From the article “Economic Factor Time”

by Nicoletta Schaper 317 style in progress

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“In my early youth, I was educated in a simple, yet fairly strict, manner and was forced to work on a farm. I guess that’s why I like genuine and authentic things in every area of my life. I enjoy meeting up with my friends in my hometown, visiting a quaint restaurant, or playing football at the local club. I can have so much more fun with these people than with the rich and famous.”

Renzo Rosso

“Saying no to trends that are perceived as evident and allegedly necessary is now more important than saying yes. In 95 percent of the cases, we now decide against doing something, because it simply doesn’t fit.”

Jörg Ehrlich, then creative director at René Lezard

“At the end of the day, we organise the Bread & Butter for independent retailers, because we believe in this culture. It doesn’t matter where they come from. It also doesn’t matter where they come. It’s our job to offer an event that is exciting and indispensable enough to MAKE them come.”

Karl-Heinz Müller,

founder of Bread & Butter

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2006

“The problem of our society is that everything needs to be fast, faster, and even faster.

But life isn’t about running faster. One needs to be able to say stop and think. Is what I am doing really sensible?

First I have ten collections per year, then two per month.

What’s the next step? Will I have one collection per day?”

Anne Lise Kjaer,

future and trend researcher

“You can’t please everybody.”

“Our business has changed a lot over the years.

It has become faster in every respect. Trends mutate more rapidly, while the half-life period of collections decreases. Anything that manages to last more than three years is a veritable sensation.

At the same time, collections - the products, so to speak - increase in terms of quality, especially in our genre. My possibilities as a retailer in terms of compiling a really excellent product range are much broader now than they were a few years ago. Obviously, this requires more commitment, knowledge, and information on my part. There is no ‘off-the-peg’ solution. If I am, on the other hand, willing to commit and invest, then I, as a specialised retailer, have a raison d’être and a future.”

Udo Töpfer

Ambros Stolz, Strolz Lech

“Fashion is always a hot seat. In my opinion, not risking anything is no longer future-oriented. Those unwilling to take risks, should not become entrepreneurs. The term itself suggests that one needs to create rather than leave things unchanged. And one should never forget that a willingness to take risks can result in economic success!”

Midi Moser-Föger, Föger Telfs

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“I am absolutely convinced that products have a language of their own. The people who manufacture these products breathe their heart and soul into these products.”

Markus Meindl

Today, companies not only offer their clothing on a global scale, but they also offer bed linen, interiors, underwear, and cosmetics without even considering whether there is a market for such things. It may well be that a company makes great sweaters, but who says that the same company is also good at producing make-up? It’s a kind of mass hysteria.

Prada is making underwear? We need to make underwear too! Gucci is offering perfume? We need to offer perfume!

But we all have too much already, which is why we don’t desire anything anymore. That’s why we are facing a crisis.”

Anne Lise Kjaer, future and trend researcher

“Christobal Balenciaga, a huge idol of mine, once said that, as a fashion designer, one is an artist for the idea, a painter for the colours, and an architect for the proportions. That’s a beautiful description of our profession.”

Albert Kriemler, Akris

“Premium lifestyle describes a modern way of life that didn’t have its own term before. It stands for a more under­stated approach and is less wasteful than luxury - yet nevertheless just as quality-oriented.”

Andrea Bernholtz,

then at Rock & Republic

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2007 “I am not concerned with artistic self-realisation that may be praised highly by some people, only to find out that even those people won’t buy it.”

Michael Michalsky

“The emergence of fair fashion is merely a question of time. Even organic food struggled for many years. Today, it is widely accepted that healthy food is an important part of our lives. In my opinion, the same will apply to the fashion industry one day. More importantly, the awareness of the fact that we would enjoy consuming without exploiting others is increasing. Even today, high-quality clothing from sustainable production plants is considered trendy. This trend remains on the rise.”

Michael Otto, CEO of Otto Group

“Customers can find detailed information on the properties, quality, and origin of goods via search engines or recommendations. They compare offers and prices; they look at reviews in special Internet forums. The passive customer has transformed into a ‘savouring dictator’ of sorts. These customers are confident, well-informed, and know exactly what they want.”

Joachim Schirrmacher

“Once more, it will be the people who trigger the revolution. Just look at Scott Schuman. He documents the awakening of a new urban self-consciousness in his photo-blog under the pseudonym ‘The Satorialist’. In Paris, Schuman took photographs on behalf of style.com. However, he didn’t document the fashion shows, but the people on the streets in front of the fashion show venues - in the gardens of the Tuileries. His photos show the future so much clearer than all the photos from the catwalks.”

Jeroen van Rooijen,

fashion journalists at NZZ 317 style in progress

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“It’s quite a challenge not to sacrifice the soul of the company for growth. Rapid success is very seductive. During periods of success, it is vital not to abandon one’s strategy for short-term interests.”

Graziano Gianelli, then CEO of Geospirit Group

“The reality isn’t Berlin-Mitte – the reality is Würzburg.”

Marco Götz, owner of Drykorn

“Once all shopping streets in Germany, Europe, and the world over look the same, it will automatically mean that people consume less as a whole due to a lack of excitement. Specialised retailers that represent the style of a country or region are essential for every healthy retail landscape.”

Rainer Pichler, then CEO of Holy Group

“The saddest thing is that most people cry out for cheap, cheaper, cheapest. On the other hand, the same people whine about the consequences of this attitude for Europe.

One has to explain the context to these people. If I only buy products from the Far East due to their cheap price, it won’t take long until my own job moves out there too.”

Ignatious Joseph, owner of Ign. Joseph

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2008

“Fortunately, I am curious enough to constantly look into new things and never stop learning. I really enjoy that, which makes me a really happy person. Sometimes I’m afraid that I will be hit by a huge double-decker bus out of the blue. Without notice, you know? That could be seen as compensation for this wonderful, privileged life I have been allowed to lead so far.”

Paul Smith

“Those who still believe in fighting alone, are fighting a losing battle.”

“Our youth is no longer interested in manual labour and only sees the exposed professions within the fashion industry. Fashion is so much more than what you see on the catwalk. Fashion needs engineers, technicians, developers, and controllers. These positions are insanely hard to fill. The few individuals who are capable, earn a lot of money. It’s probably down to a lack of communication. It seems we cannot make these jobs attractive enough.”

Lars Braun, Braun Hamburg

Carlo Rivetti, Stone Island

“Fashion communication is mostly superficial. One of the reasons for this is that brands with a lot of advertising power like to play it safe. They stick to friendly reporting environments that are the most superficial and product-oriented. The boundaries between what ad units and the free press could and should do are becoming increasingly blurred.”

Alfons Kaiser, fashion journalist at FAZ 317 style in progress

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“I ignore trends. Trends are in danger of becoming uniform. And I hate uniforms. Generally speaking, I am against the globalisation of fashion. Real fashion cannot be limited to codes in the same way as - for instance - leisure fashion.

In my eyes, fashion also has nothing to do with advertising accessories or perfume. Fashion is the craftsmanship of tailors.”

Alber Elbaz, then head of design at Lanvin “Mutual trust is a prerequisite. This can only be based on open and honest communication. If I, for instance, tell a supplier that his brand isn’t performing well, I no longer want to be told that it’s the same for everyone. We need honesty, especially when problems arise. One should be able to talk about everything.”

Markus Höhn, Lodenfrey

“I was approached

by H&M and turned them down for two reasons. First of all, I really didn’t need to say yes. Secondly, I considered it confusing and would even go as far as saying it would have been customer fraud. I would have broken a promise I gave.”

Paul Smith

“From a private point of view, Sylt is like Alcatraz: no culture, no privacy, and no social life.”

Manuel Rivera, Different Fashion

“Back in the day, my mother raised me differently.

She told me that being a woman is something special for which one doesn’t need to compensate. One should see it as a badge of honour.

Many women are too timid to do that or aren’t allowed to due to their education, religion, or social environment. For me, femininity means being proud of being a strong woman. Fashion for women should always be based on these principles.”

Diane von Fürstenberg

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2009 “I don’t sense an anti-America sentiment against individual brands.

I sense a negative attitude towards the US and its government. But I am full of hope that the situation will improve as swiftly as it deteriorated over the last few years.”

Tommy Hilfiger

“Today, even a good concept, conclusive business plan, and true entrepreneurial spirit will often not be enough to persuade a bank.”

Clemens Kappler, owner of K&K Logistics

“The whole discussion regarding ‘Made in Italy’ has many facets. It wouldn’t be easy to return to ‘Made in Italy’ in its purest form, because we even lack basics like training centres for the professionals we’d need.

The young talents are only interested in ‘creating fashion’ and rarely acknowledge that creating fashion also requires manual labour. There are very few schools for this part of the industry. There is also no culture dedicated to passing on this kind of knowledge.”

Giorgio Braschi, Giorgio Brato

“We need to turn the wheel back a little, even in the luxury segment. Today, I saw that several premium retailers in Munich’s ‘Maximilianstrasse’ went overboard with the red marker - on the 10th of November, no less! How can that be? This is what kills the entire industry. It’s utterly ridiculous to reduce the price by 50 percent before Christmas. At some point, consumers will stop buying in September and October altogether.”

Helmut Eder,

Helmut Eder Kitzbühel 317 style in progress

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“The trade show landscape will realign itself completely. The return of the Bread & Butter means that the leading trade fair will once again be in Germany.”

Karl-Heinz Müller

“Of course one must also stock special items, but not unrealistic ones. When I say unrealistic, I also include items that only look good on super-skinny women.”

Patricia Field

“You cannot survive on your image alone. At the end of the day, really good retailers are also excellent payers.”

Andreas Knezovic, owner of FTC Cashmere “Being overly obliging in terms of payment won’t result in the sale of a single additional item. We deliver goods excellent goods. This allows my customers to earn money, which means they should fulfil their part and pay the punctually delivered goods on time.”

Alexander Gedat, then CEO at Marc O’Polo

“I believe it’s a privilege to be copied. That’s what I always dreamed of. I am thrilled when I see my designs in China or Thailand, side by side with Gucci and Chanel. I’m so thrilled because I know that the people are more likely to reach for Ed Hardy than for Chanel or Gucci.”

Christian Audigier

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2010

“Morality in fashion is a terribly complicated subject. You can go to Primark and buy a dress for seven pounds. Then you can pop into the Selfridges Café on the other side of the road, where you can buy a cappuccino and a croissant for the same amount of money. That’s wrong - morally wrong.”

Suzy Menkes

“Something in our business is pretty broken, if we fail to focus on people and define everything with systems or rules.

Only recently, I eliminated as many rules as possible in our stores. I like people who are good at interacting with other people, not only good at dealing with rules. The new rule is that there are no rules.”

Ron Herman, owner of Ron Herman

“The development of jeans in recent years is a nice example. It ranges from subcultural phenomena to washes and price levels. It’s tremendous! Jeans are no longer a mere product. In this innovation lies great power. Of course, 80 percent of the jeans are sold for less than 30 Euros. This particular market segment has nothing to do with fashion. The huge price gap is actually quite frightening. And it seems to be widening even more. The question is who serves these customers. Are they served by vertically integrated businesses or by Kik? And who is footing the bill?”

Gerhard Wöhrl

“Our livelihood depends on customers who don’t want what everyone else has!”

Klaudia Burger, Slips

“First and foremost, I try to create the best product possible. Only then will I consider how to save money. It doesn’t work the other way round.”

Adriano Goldschmied

“The most important thing is that our people know they are on equal footing with our customers. I perceive them as style consultants, not as salespeople. They are so well-trained that they don’t need to act submissive.”

Hannes Profanter, owner of Maximilian in Brixen, Bruneck, Sterzing, and Bozen 317 style in progress

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“The fashion shows will take place when the goods are delivered. It will certainly be a painful shock when the fashion shows turn into events for consumers. They are just that already, in a way. However, nobody is willing to accept this fact yet. I am convinced that fashion will address consumers more directly in the future. Once the fashion shows are held when the goods are available, the effect will be quite impressive. After all, a fashion show is one of the most beautiful ways to promote a label. Just imagine how much the brands will benefit from this development!”

Natalie Massenet, founder of net-a-porter.com

“Our fellow countrymen are very scared of not swimming with the current. Just look around - there are armies of people in the eversame jackets marching through our cities!”

Massimo Rosetti,

creative director at Parajumpers

“The entire goods management process in our industry is a catastrophe! It hardly ever takes consumers into account! We have to make sure that we finally focus on the consumer!”

Wolfgang Drewalowski,

then managing director of Leineweber GmbH & Co. KG/Brax

“Dignity is what we need to survive, even more so than food.”

Brunello Cucinelli

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2011

“Anyone who reduces merchandise too early, or too much - in other words, sells too little at regular prices - doesn’t have a future in this business anyway.”

Christian Obojes,

owner of room with a view

“We should handle ‘Made in Italy’ carefully so that its true meaning can be preserved for the future. It is important to protect and maintain the designation by law. Otherwise, people will think it only means ’Designed in Italy’ in 20 years.”

Mario Boglioli

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“The future of craftsmanship is a true challenge. We can’t solve this problem by company training alone. We must work on increasing the societal acceptance of this profession.”

Markus Meindl

“Swimming trunks are always the first summer articles I receive. This is at a time of year when my customers are standing in front of the shopwindow in down jackets or have just had a mug of mulled wine.”

Uwe Maier, Bungalow

“We’re certainly not involved in e-commerce because we have too much time on our hands.”

Harald Heldmann, owner at Classico

“I came to America to become a fashion designer, and through this I became a part of American history. A small part, a very small part of it…”

Jason Wu

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2012 “Why does the fashion industry have a problem with being commercial? Why do journalists judge something to be wrong simply because everybody likes it? There’s nothing bad about being commercial.”

Franka Sozzani

“In my eyes, the best sales seminar is still the farmer’s market. It is temptation and inspiration in its best and purest form.”

Christoph Bründl, managing director of Bründl Sports Group

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“Who says that brands are a luxury just because you can now buy stocks? As a consequence integrity is likely to suffer. Suddenly you have to open new stores in every city and at airport terminals. I understand that global brands have to be like this, but to me it’s becoming a different world.”

Carla Sozzani, 10 Corso Como

095

“Men have better networks. That’s because they all go out for a beer after work. The women go home and cook. How are they supposed to develop a sense of solidarity?”

Ulli Ehrlich, Sportalm management

“The question is not whether products will be made in China, but how things will be made in China.”

Gerhard Flatz, KTC

“Ever since Fukushima and the Tsunami crisis, we Japanese have become aware that our lives could end tomorrow. We really must ask ourselves why we’d spend money on poor-quality products.

When we buy something, we want it to be genuine. Now, after the disasters in Japan, this feeling has grown even stronger. That’s why fast fashion sales have declined so much. But even the luxury brands have suffered losses, because their prices have soared to unrealistic heights.”

Kurino Hirofumi, United Arrows

“More and more people I know say that the sale price is the honest price and that they feel conned before the reduction. That is how consumers think.”

“Many retailers believe they’ll Henrik Soller, Komet und Helden get rich by simply putting something online and don’t even realise how complex the whole issue is.”

Susanne Botschen,

Susanne Botschen, then owner mytheresa.com

“In London, fashion is a must; in St. Johann, it is a treat!”

Bernhard Adelsberger, Adelsberger style in progress 317

2013 “In the context of the investments we have made in Lodenfrey in the past three years, I am committed to the future of the multi-brand retail sector.

In my opinion, multi-brand retailing even has an opportunity to grow successfully in the coming years through profiling and differentiation.”

Ralph Nagel, Lodenfrey

“What we lack in the textile trade is innovation.

We introduce a new label, a new designer, or a new type of material, but nothing else. We can’t push innovations into new sectors like the technology market, for example.”

Christian Greiner, Ludwig Beck

“Right now, I can’t see a need for crisis management in smaller locations. I believe that the key to success is to understand the needs of customers in a small city.”

John Cloppenburg,

Peek & Cloppenburg KG Düsseldorf

“People want strawberries in winter; they don’t live in seasons anymore.

But that isn’t the real problem.

The problem is that retailers have warehouses that are bursting at the seams and throw around budgets that are unreal.”

Niko Pesko, managing director of Pesko Lenzerheide

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“Brands are created at the cash registers! At the end of the day, it’s all fairly simple. Both suppliers and retailers need to make money. A product that ensures that, is a good product.”

Rachid Bourak, founder of 0039 Italy

“Everything will change due to e-commerce. All relationships between larger companies and retailers will never be the same. What all CEOs will learn - if they haven’t learned it already - is that they can achieve a larger profit margin without having to worry about retailers.”

Armand Hadida, owner L’Eclaireur

“We’ve done away with the ‘customer is king’ mantra, mainly because people aren’t honest with a king and always need to be aware that he can turn his back on a friendship at any time and whenever he fancies.”

Bernd Deuter, head of marketing at Reischmann Group Ravensburg

“You have to like your own merchandise, you have to like yourself, you have to love the place, and you have to love the customers.”

Christian Mikunda, retail expert

“We always have to create our own economy.

Given the fact that Waldkirchen has 10,000 citizens, it is impossible to manage 6,000 square metres according to logical criteria.

We simply need to be better than the others.”

Christoph Huber, managing partner of Garhammer

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2014

“Our sales assistants are and always will be - our most important success factor.”

Sebastian Proft, Dollinger

“A good salesperson has three jobs: business administrator, psychologist, and improvisation artist.”

Andreas Weitkamp, Modehaus Schnitzler and Weitkamp

“If you really want to make a difference, then sustainability and all important ecological aspects need to be embedded in all divisions of a company.”

Jochen Zeitz

“Today, we are online for 24 hours and it is necessary to be offline for a while. The return to nature is a basic desire in our hectic world. That’s why the entire outdoor industry has become so interesting again.”

Heiner Oberrauch,

owner of Oberalp Group

“We have to display the goods when our customers want to see them. We have always done what the customer wants. If you want to understand the system behind the fashion industry and want to generate sales, then you have to get in early.”

Albert Eickhoff

“In the US, the industry scrapped the ‘e-‘ prefix a long time ago and doesn’t even argue about the merits of multi-channel and omni-channel retailing. US companies just focus on commerce. The question of which channel to utilise is completely irrelevant.”

Torsten Waack von Wasen, 317 style in progress

then managing director of Alvarez & Marsal European Corporate Solution

099

“Most shops are old-fashioned; they show too many goods at once. The shop is used as a warehouse, which is a huge mistake in my eyes. It would be much better to show less in a smaller space - a kind of showroom with a hidden storage room.”

Li Edelkoort

“Sometimes it seems humans live on this planet as if they have a spare one to go to.”

Javier Goyenche, Ecoalf

“Freedom beyond sales is a must; that’s what inspires collections.”

Remo Ruffini, owner Moncler

“As so often in life, it’s all about balance. We generate 80 percent of our sales with 20 percent of our brands.

Nevertheless, the remaining 20 percent of our sales remain essential. In the future, a multi-brand retailer has to create even more surprising shopping experiences and prove its competence with the best brands under one roof.”

Philippe Oliver Burger, then owner and managing director of PKZ Group

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2015 “During many conversations, I have the feeling that the retail industry is focused on now and tends to look back.”

Christiane Arp, Editor-in-Chief Vogue Germany

“We might come to a point where fashion consumers start looking at fast fashion like they do at McDonalds - with a little distrust and distaste.”

Christina Dean, Redress

“At the end of the day, we want to be the first point of contact for any question or problem in terms of fashion. Let’s say a certain customer is on lookout for a specific item and needs it immediately, then we want to be the ones offering the solution.”

David Schneider, management board Zalando “The world has changed over the last decade and our behaviour as consumers even more so. The fashion industry has fallen behind and is struggling to catch up. Nothing has really changed, except for the online business. The stationary retail industry is still the same. We attend a trade show, then place a pre-order, and half a year later everything is different to what we expected and, once again, we are all speechless and stunned!

We are like politicians; we can discuss issues for hours at trade shows. We moan and groan, but at the end of the day we are surprised that nothing has changed and that the inevitable has happened.”

Theresa Minatti-Einwaller, buyer at Einwaller 317 style in progress

101

“The customer is over-saturated; it is completely absurd that a brand would apply pressure in terms of budgets.”

Wilfried Wetzl, Casa Moda

“14 or 15 year old girls stuff huge shopping bags full of discount clothing that they only wear once before throwing the items away, mainly because of the quality of the goods is so incredibly poor. Such companies cause a certain loss of culture. It is also a moral loss, especially if you look at how such clothing is produced.”

Richard Engelhorn, Engelhorn

“My position paper tells me to ensure that Hermès is as successful as it is now for the next generation. It doesn’t say that I will get a bonus if I manage to meet certain targets over the next two years.”

Florian Craen, managing director at Hermès

“Most retailers, especially in Germany, haven’t fully understood the shopping experience concept yet. They still follow a classic procurement retailing philosophy.”

Stephan Schneider, Conleys

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2016

“I believe that brands can be more important than politicians.”

Johan Lindeberg

“I see myself as a worker in the fashion circus, so it’s difficult for me when I try to get into a show and the VIP entrance is bigger than the one for buyers.”

Sarah Andelmann, Colette

“I feel very privileged to be at the forefront of what is quite a disruptive retail journey. There has been a changing face of retail over the last 30 years and the manner in which it has changed is quite extraordinary.”

Tom Chapman,

founder of Matchesfashion.com

“On the basic level, it may be true that everyone can be a sales assistant.

However, a salesperson faces a stiffer challenge as soon as customers demand individual advice.”

Alexander Petrskovsky, Kastner & Öhler, Graz

“I am aware of the power of social media, I’m aware of the power of street style photography, and of how certain things photograph better than others.

And yes, I wear a lot of different clothes. But I was doing that long before there was Instagram or anything like that.”

Nick Wooster 317 style in progress

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“Our regulars know that we only start reducing prices in the last week of December and six weeks after Pentecost.”

Matthias Beckmann, Beckmann Gelsenkirchen

“When people see a picture on Instagram, they want it immediately; they don’t want to wait six months. I was lucky to build my brand the same time when Instagram became popular, so I was one of the first brands to jump on that. I saw the effect of Instagram and I also had my blog for many years, so I saw the needs of my followers, of the women out there. Women who wanted what I was wearing, so I thought this was a smart way of building a business.”

Anine Bing

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2017 “The stationary retail trade remains indispensable in many respects, but it needs to change.”

Daniel Grieder,

CEO at Tommy Hilfiger

“In this country, if you are good, you can always count on someone else offering the same products at a lower price.”

Marco Berni, CEO at Antonelli and Tortona 21

“We try to speed up. In fashion, we have an incredibly long development period of 18 months. It is completely illusory to predict whether a certain yellow will remain popular in 18 months, especially in a world that changes so quickly and dynamically while being subjected to so many influences.”

Andrea Cané,

Global Creative Director Woolrich

“The fashion business is significantly more complicated now than back in 1967, when Marc O’Polo was founded.”

Werner Böck, owner of Marc O’Polo

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105

“Nowadays, I try to see what happens in the store from a humorous angle. I often remind my customers that they are not here to buy a fitted kitchen.”

Susanne Lindner, Lindner Fashion

“I believe that family businesses pay more attention to their employees, mainly because they know that nothing can be achieved without them.”

Giovanna Furlanetto, president at Furla

“Fashion isn’t mathematics!”

Matthias Moser, Föger Woman Pure

“I prefer to perceive employees as coentrepreneurs with shared responsibilities.”

Clemens Sagmeister, Sagmeister

“It is a truly magical moment when the time to start the new season - with all its new collections - has finally come. It is en electrifying moment for everyone who loves fashion as much as we do.”

Andrea Panconesi, owner of luisaviaroma.com

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Back in 1998! The yearbook of style in progress’ founding year. Photos: Private

Michael Prues

Dominik Meuer

Alexandra von Richthofen, Nicoletta Schaper, Uwe Scherer

Christina Michaelis

Milan Danek, Ina KĂśhler

Lars Braun

Reinhart Oberstein

Kay Alexander Plonka

Johannes Seymann

Gaby Ventrella

Ignatious Joseph

Mel Nienaber

Dirk Nienaber

Familie Schneider

Daniel und Markus Freitag

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Wolfgang Lohe

Claudia Meitert

107

Michi Klemera

Jörg Wichmann

Isabel Faiss

Miriam und Piero Cividini

Martina Müllner-Seybold

Mirela Stanoiu

Marco Götz

Christoph Steiner

Stephan Huber

Evelyn Hammerström, Victoria Beckham, Reinhard Haase

Sigrid Staber

Sabine Berlipp

Michele Ventrella

Dörte Welti

Valentino de Luca

Markus Klosseck, Claudia Eilers, Nicoletta Schaper

Elisabeth Prock-Huber

Karl-Heinz Müller

Ina Köhler

Jörg Korfhage

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108 WHAT'S THE STORY

“Creating a collection is fairly easy for me. I have a lot of ideas”, says Donna owner Mirela Stanoiu, who is also a dedicated retail expert.

Roqa. HIGHFLIER 150 doors in the first season – this means that Roqa, the collection of Mirela Stanoiu, is off to a flying start. Not only because the style matches the zeitgeist, but also because all the components fit together so perfectly.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Roqa

“I actually don’t wear anything else anymore”, Mirela Stanoiu laughs. The fashion expert from Romania is certainly the best testimonial for her own collection. She has created casual track pants with sportive lateral stripes and generous sweat hoodies in statement 317 style in progress

colours, only to combine them with feminine, micro-patterned silk tops and frilly blouses. This stylistic breach creates a credible environment for the athleisure trend and hits the nail on the head in terms of zeitgeist. When the fashion agency Toepfer presented Roqa at the Premium, the collection instantly convinced the most renowned retailers in the German-speaking markets.

Among them are Lodenfrey, Engelhorn, Apropos, Jades, and Daniels (all Germany), Helmut Eder, Föger, Dantendorfer, and Reyer (all Austria), as well as Strolz, Lorenz Bach, Phänomen, Fidelio, Ciolina, and Pesko (all Switzerland).

Meticulous – Perfectionist – Energetic

Mirela Stanoiu has 30 years of industry experience. She and her parents fled the Ceausescu regime in Romania in the late 1970s. She settled in Hannover, worked as a model, and opened Donna, her first store for premium fashion, in 1989.

Two years later, she launched Emma, a high-end fashion store.

She then opened - among others - two more Donna branches in Hannover, the Shoehouse, and Zoé in Hamburg. The latter is a city villa in which every room promises a special shopping experience. Zoé is also the name of Mirela Stanoiu’s private label,

which she launched 15 years ago to create trend items that she couldn’t find elsewhere. “Creating a collection is fairly easy for me. I have a lot of ideas”, she quips. She enjoys a flawless reputation within the industry as a meticulous, perfectionist, and energetic professional. Mistakes are always part of a long career and she has pragmatically learned to change course from time to time. “One always needs to adapt to the times and special requirements”, Mirela Stanoiu says in reference to the planned closure of her large Donna store in August 2018. “We would have loved to go on for another ten years, but the rent demands

WHAT'S THE STORY 109

were utopian. I’m actually quite glad it turned out this way. Now I can devote myself to Roqa wholeheartedly.”

Teamwork

For Roqa, she strives for utmost quality and perfection - and she is highly motivated. “We are not squeezing the manufacturing price for a few percent extra margin. We aim for quality and want to supply the market with a great product that convinces for more than one season.”

Mirela Stanoiu is convinced that this approach should also apply to the sales strategy. It was a tough choice, but - at the end of the day - Toepfer is an agency that she knows is quick to deal with any problems that may arise. “Toepfer has a highly professional structure and has often proved in the past that it is capable of establishing new brands with the necessary sales network”, she says. “All the small cogs lined up perfectly”, Udo Toepfer adds. “It would be presumptuous for anyone to claim this success alone.”

The first collection consists of 150 pieces with three delivery dates. The look is defined by stars and stripes. However, one also finds sweaters with anchor motifs; these have their own special background story. Mirela Stanoiu has been friends with German actor Ralf Bauer for many years. He is the founder of “Anchor for Nepal”, a charity that helps earthquake victims, especially children. For every sweater sold, five Euros are donated to the aid project.

Mirela Stanoiu has many plans. Currently, the collection’s average price stands at 50 Euros with a mark-up of 2.8.

However, she is aiming for a 3.0 mark-up for the next few seasons. The store concepts in Hannover and Hamburg remain unchanged, only the area of the Donna-adjacent stores Emma and Shoehouse will be merged

to form a unique concept for premium and high-end fashion.

A men’s line under the Roqa brand is also on the agenda. “I have a lot at stake, but I’m not a beginner. Everyone should enjoy Roqa: manufacturers, distributors, retailers, and customers.

I’m willing to give it my all to achieve that.” www.roqa.de

“I have a lot at stake, but I’m not a beginner. Everyone should enjoy Roqa: manufacturers, distributors, retailers, and customers. I’m willing to give it my all to achieve that.”

Mirela Stanoiu

The new Roqa collection is in sync with the zeitgeist.

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WANT IT

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Casual Chic made in USA

The Poets

PAS DE CALAIS. This Japanese label with a “very French” name draws inspiration from the unique beauty of Pas de Calais, a region with a long-running textile heritage. Many of us are familiar with “Dentelle de Calais” lace.

The brand, which was founded in 1998, decided to launch an export campaign in 2008.

It participated in trade shows like Coterie or Tranoi and opened showrooms and flagship stores in New York and Paris. The global design language of designer Yukari Suda appeals to purists all over the globe. Elaborately refined natural fabrics, often hand-dyed and always with patina, create an unpretentious, timeless contemporary look. It forms a pleasant contrast to many show collections. Pas de Calais offers real favourite pieces despite remaining suitable for everyday use. Layering is an important style element and Yukari Suda’s skilful cuts manage to lend oversize models a healthy portion of femininity. The sales representative in Germany and Austria is Anke Burkhardt. The purchase prices for the summer collection range from 39 Euros for shirts to 268 Euros for coats. Despite delivery from Japan, international customers receive their goods DDC, i.e. duty paid.

Pas de Calais, Galerie de Pop, Paris/France, info.paris@g-pop.com, www.pasdecalais.jp

FRAME. Brama Group is the new representative of Frame for the EMEA region, excluding the UK and Scandinavia. Frame’s style blends French casual chic with denim know-how from Los Angeles - elegant and cool. Within five years, the label, which was founded in 2012, has evolved from a supplier of casual jeans into a brand that offers four ready-towear collections per year. The average purchase prices range from 118 to 124 Euros with a mark-up of 2.7. Frame has two headquarters, so to speak. One is located in Culver City, Los Angeles, while the other is in Shoreditch, London. However, the label produces 80% of its products in the US. Renzo Braglia, the CEO of Brama Group, perceives the sales contract with Frame as an important step. “At the time we opened our flagship headquarter in Milan in order to start direct sales in the Italian market, the addition of Frame enables us to become a ‘main actor’ in the premium denim business. This adds to all the other excellent denim brands we already represent, such as J Brand, Mother, and Current/Elliott.” Including the Milan showroom, Brama Group now has seven showrooms across Europe in Düsseldorf, Munich, Copenhagen, Antwerp, Paris, and Madrid.

Brama Group, Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.97176054, info@bramaduesseldorf.com, www.frame-store.com

Miniature Greenhouses

GREEN FACTORY. Would you like to have plants at home or in the office, but do you lack the “green touch” and/or the time for watering? Green Factory has the answer. The Parisian workshop supplies unique, handselected plant compositions. Every plant object consists of a miniature tree that shields the little green world within a glass. It forms an almost autonomous ecosystem that requires nothing more than a few waterings per year. Due to photosynthesis, the water cycle, and a closed, transparent environment, these biotopes grow on their own steam.

Green Factory was founded to help re-balance urban environments by making living and working environments a little greener. One needs no botanical knowledge and the plant compositions require almost no care. The glasses containing miniature bonsai trees, ficus, and palm trees are available in sizes S to XXL and cost between 30 and 430 Euros with a mark-up of 2.3. The list of customers includes Fleux, Kann Design, and Made In Live Paris, as well as Urban Therapy Brussels, The Golden Rabbit Düsseldorf, I’m A Kombo Copenhagen, and Delphine & Edouard Stockholm.

Green Factory, Paris/France, T 0033.1.74645615, atelier@greenfactory.fr, www.greenfactory.fr style in progress 317

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Urban Athleisure

Pools(l)ide

THE WHITE BRAND. Pool slides are the next big thing - there’s no doubt about that. There is no lack of crazy ideas in this genre. From faux fur to pearls, there is literally nothing that doesn’t exist. Even hardcore fashionistas wear these slippers, despite the fact that their natural habitat is an indoor swimming pool. According to influencers and designers, pool slides can be made “winter-ready” by wearing socks. This madness is beneficial to fashion retailers. A shop window full of pool slides creates summer feeling, even on a dark and cold day in March. The White Brand, a company that hails from Spain, covers the entire range of this “slipper hype” by offering colourful models, witty statements, and fancy decors. One doesn’t need to delve too deep into one’s wallet either. At a mark-up of 2.3, the retail prices range from 33 to 50 Euros. Seeing that The White Brand is quite aware of the fact that its items are impulse purchase products, it offers re-orders for retailers. The latest it-pieces by the brand prove that it can do a lot more than merely produce pool slides. Check out those slip-ons made of materials like velvet!

The White Brand, Mozz A/S, Hvidovre/ Denmark, T 0045.8619.9959, mo@mozz.dk, www.thewhitebrand.com 317 style in progress

VERDANDY. Martin Pichler and Manuel Rauner love the jeans look. However, they always thought that denim trousers and jackets were too hard and uncomfortable. That’s why they decided to found their own brand in 2014.

Verdandy stands for urban athleisure-wear that looks like denim, but has a much higher wearing comfort. A clearly defined product range, consisting of individual trouser and jacket models in various colours and washings, define the overall look. The Loose and Slim Fit creations are made of extra-soft cotton jersey, which gets its typical jeans feel through different washings and coatings. The two Austrians know exactly what men want and how jeans should fit. Pichler and Rauner gained their fashion experience during their many years in the international model business. The name Verdandy derives from the term Verðandi, the Nordic fate goddess of the present, who holds the threads of fate in her hands. Analogies to these threads can also be found in Verdandy’s fashion. The label offers seams and linings in contrast colours.

Verdandy attaches great importance to sustainability. All items are produced exclusively in Europe and all partners are selected carefully according to social and ecological aspects. The retail price for the trouser models Thor and Balder stands at 189 Euros, while the jacket model Loki costs between 229 and 269 Euros depending on the finishing. The founders of the label still handle the distribution of the label themselves.

Verdandy, Vienna/Austria, info@verdandy.com, www.verdandy.com

Cute? No Way!

LES COYOTES DE PARIS. It started in 2015 with a collection for girls. Marie, who prefers not to disclose her surname, used to work as a designer at Scotch & Soda, but decided that she would rather create something for modern girls: cool clothing without the usual pink tones and pony clichés, made of luxury materials befitting Paris. The moms who were attracted to Les Coyotes de Paris soon wanted more - for themselves. That’s why the label added womenswear to its portfolio after two seasons. It is based on the wardrobe of a modern, urban woman who seeks new favourite pieces that remain relevant for longer than a season, yet remain simple and edgy. This fine range can now be ordered at wholesale prices ranging from 40 Euros for tops to 250 Euros for jackets. German-speaking customers can view the collection at Caro Pezzetta’s Studio Pezzetta. International customers can pay a visit to the Les Coyotes de Paris showroom in the French capital.

Les Coyotes de Paris, Paris/France, sales@lescoyotesdeparis.com, www.lescoyotesdeparis.com

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Cotton with attitude

VATTER. Vatter, a label that was founded in 2015, has taken its next step by adding t-shirts, tank tops, and long-sleeves for women and men to its product range. The basics are made of organic cotton and are defined by a loose cut. All models are available in the colours white, black, grey melange, and navy. In terms of underwear, women can choose from three slip and two bra styles.

Every model can be purchased in simpler or more playful versions with refined details.

Men can choose from breezy boxer shorts, classic boxer briefs, and modern trunk shorts in subtle uni-designs or more striking - yet stylish - patterned variants. All items are produced in GOTS-certified, family-run busi­nesses in Greece and Turkey. The stylish boxes are 100% recycled and are printed with vegetable-based inks. Only non-genetically manipulated seeds are used for the controlled cultivation of organic cotton. The cotton is exclusively subjected to natural fertilisers and pesticides that don’t harm nature or the farmers before it is picked by hand. This reduces water consumption compared to conventional cultivation, because the natural fertilisers increase the humus content in the soil in the long term. The soil can therefore retain more water.

Vatter Fashion GmbH, Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.76706627, info@vatter-fashion.com, www.vatter-fashion.com

Tennis Legend

LOTTO LEGGENDA. Lotto made history as the shoe of choice of tennis legends Boris Becker and Martina Navratilova. The brand now returns as a trendy sneaker collection named Lotto Leggenda. The re-launch is the work of Lotto Sport Italia, a company that has specialised in sports shoes since 1973 and has enjoyed many successful collaborations with tennis and football stars. One of the legends was Italy’s goalkeeper Dino Zoff, who was wearing Lotto boots during the World Cup 1982 in Spain. Lotto Leggenda focuses on lifestyle sneakers for men and women.

The collection’s style is clean, especially as it’s inspired by sport and the brand’s own tradition. It boasts subtle fashionable details without detracting from the line’s authentic vintage touch. The sneakers are stocked by retailers such as 10 Corso Como, Luisa Via Roma, Le Printemps, Harrods, Selfridges, and Mr. Porter. Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz’s fashion agency D-Tails is the sales representative for Germany and Austria. His list of Lotto customers includes Burresi, Daniels, Uli Knecht, Lorenz Bach Gstaad, and Ieri Oggi Kitzbühel. The purchase price for a pair of Lotto Signatures is 54 Euros, the retail price 135 Euros.

Lotto Sport Italia Spa, Trevignano/Italy, T 0039.0423.6181, email@lottosports.com, www.lotto.it

Multicultural

POAN. Georg Weissacher, an Austrian designer, launched his label Poan (short for Peoples of All Nations) to pay tribute to the multicultural mindset. For nine years, he honed his design skills under the tutelage of his mentor Andreas Kronthaler, the Austria-­ born husband of Vivienne Westwood. He has been living in London, where the label is based, for almost ten years now. The collection mostly relies on in-house creations in cooperation with Italian weavers and knitters. Weissacher describes his close ties with his suppliers as essential in terms of innovation. The collection is showcased during the Milan Fashion Week. With the exception of a few, the styles are aimed at gentlemen. The purchase prices start at 80 Euros for shirts and reach up to 800 Euros for elaborately designed coats. Among the first customers are names such as Oberrauch-Zitt in Bolzano, Gschwantler in Tyrol, and World’s End in Berlin. In terms of style, one can identify the influence from the designer’s time in the menswear unit of Vivienne Westwood in tapered trousers made of experimental materials, streetwear touches in shirts and sweats, and thick sweaters with a hint of irony in their design. The collection is complemented by shoes, small leather goods, scarves, and baseball caps.

Poan, London/Great Britain, georg@peoplesofallnations.com, www.poancollection.com style in progress 317

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Mission possible

SHIRTS FOR LIFE. Everyone would like to come first, but only very few do. Shirts for Life is among the winners of the green movement. The eco-conscious label launched its first “social green” collection when others still thought sustainability was no more than a joke. Fair trade and ecological materials are paramount. Shirts for Life exclusively utilises organic cotton from India. Most of the fabrics are obtained from small farms in the federal states of Gujarat or Telangana and are subject to very strict cultivation guidelines. The use of pest-resistant and genetically manipulated seeds and toxic insecticides is taboo. As the cotton is harvested by hand, only fully mature bolls with long-staple cotton fibres reach the processing stage. This guarantees the high-quality and comfortable textiles that form the basis of Shirt for Life’s modern casual wear. The prices for the certified product range, which offers t-shirts, long sleeves, tops, sweatshirts, hoodies, sweatpants, and dresses, span from 19.90 to 89.90 Euros.

For each sold shirt, the label donates 1 Euro to School for Life in Thailand. The project supports children from poor backgrounds.

Shirts for Life, Buchholz/Germany, T 0049.418.194220, info@shirtsforlife.de, www.shirtsforlife.de 317 style in progress

Feel Good!

STEPHAN BOYA. The collection by Stephan Boya, which has been specialising in luxury cashmere with a thread count ranging from one to fourteen for eight years, is a new addition to the portfolio of Düsseldorf-based fashion agency Moormann & Co. The driving force behind the label is a family business from Hamburg. The collection is manufactured in Nepal and the company also produces finest cashmere products for the Barefoot Living concept of Til Schweiger. Stephan Boya focuses on sweaters and cardigans, as well as short and long pullovers and tops, made of high-quality cashmere and cashmere blends.

The style is minimalistic with special knitting techniques and fits. One of the best features is, however, the huge colour palette with many colour nuances. The average purchase price stands at approximately 180 Euros, with a mark-up between 2.7 and 2.8.

Stephan Boya GmbH, Hamburg/Germany, T 0049.40.4501600, stephan@stephanboya.com, www.stephanboya.com

The Great Entrance

RIVIVI 6269. Thang de Hoo is a household name in Vienna. His robes are equally suitable for the Opera Ball and the Life Ball.

The designer is famous for creating luxurious garments for the upper echelons of Vienna’s high society. Rivivi 6269 is, however, a more democratic expression of the designer’s skills. It is a ready-to-wear collection focused on dresses. The so-called Daily Dresses are available with and without detachable appliqués. The purchase prices start at 99 Euros. Cocktail dresses start at 89 Euros, while evening gowns start at 140 Euros. The calculation factor stands at 2.8. The everyday and cocktail dresses are available in two lengths. The detachable appliqués and sequin decorations that can be placed variably afford a special highlight. This means that the dresses can be worn on all occasions, both at business meetings and evening events.

Embroidered brocade coats and selected highlights, such as a sequinned trench coat, complement the collection.

Rivivi 6269, Vienna/Austria, office@rivivi6269.at, www.rivivi6269.at

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Fair Enough

NURUCOFFEE. Now here’s some competition for George Clooney! Most people merely know Sara Nuru as the model with Ethiopian roots. In addition to her support of fair fashion, she is - among other involvements - an ambassador for Karlheinz Böhm’s foundation “Menschen für Menschen”, which organises aid projects in Ethiopia. In 2016, she teamed up with Sali Nuru, her sister, and founded the nuruCoffee label. The idea is to drink fair-trade coffee for a good cause. “We strive to support those who are the most disadvantaged within the value chain: women.

In collaboration with local organisations, we offer training courses and micro-credits aimed at giving women a new perspective and an opportunity to lead a self-determined, independent life. nuruCoffee is the fulfilment of the long-harboured dream to give something back to the country of our parents”, the sisters explain. The organic coffee is sourced exclusively in Ethiopia. The trading process is fair and transparent; the produce comes from certified sources of the Sidama Coffee Farmers Cooperative Union. The label offers the varieties Sidamo, Yirgacheffe, Limu, Harrar, Jimma, and Kaffa in aluminium-free and recyclable packaging. Did anyone say capsules? nuruCoffee - what else?

Nuru GmbH, Berlin/Germany, T 0049.30.58916404, hello@nurucoffee.com, www.nurucoffeee.com

Ecological Jesus Slippers

FREEDOM MOSES. He never made it to the Holy Land, but the pool slides that bear his name hail from there. The driving force behind Freedom Moses is the witty reminiscence of designer Sarah Gurt of Israel. The brand reflects the relaxed style of Tel Aviv, but also boasts a tongue-in-cheek style and is very sincere in terms of sustainability.

It shouldn’t come as a surprise that Gurt turned her attention to the so-called “Jesus Slippers”. In our part of the world we associate such footwear with Birkenstock. Gurt’s models, which are made of PCU plastic, are very colourful and sport poppy patterns. The air enclosed in the sustainably manufactured material ensures that Freedom Moses slippers are highly comfortable to wear. They are durable, easy to clean, and - surprisingly - suitable for winter use. After all, the brand also offers socks in equally crazy designs for the winter on Tel Aviv’s beaches. At a purchase price of 15 Euros and retail price of 35 Euros (2.3 mark-up), we’re clearly in fashion gag land. As of January 2018, Room Von Berlin will stock and distribute the label in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland.

Freedom Moses, Tel Aviv/Israel, T 0049.151.19497959, hello@freedommoses.com, www.freedommoses.com

Value Time

KRONABY. In its Konnex watches, Swedish brand Kronaby combines traditional watch making, Scandinavian design, and modern technology. The clockwork of the wristwatches was developed in-house by software and hardware specialists and is compatible with both Android and iOS operating systems.

Once connected to a smart phone and the app, Kronaby wearers can take advantage of numerous features such as filtered notifications, auto-time-zone, silent alarms, remote control of music and camera, timers, and a walk-me-home function. The latter subtly guides you to your home safely. The idea behind the smart watch in a classic design is “connected, but not distracted”. Carefully selected features keep the wearer connected with a smart phone without having to hold the device in hand at all times, which could, for instance, lead to accidentally reading a new message or e-mail. The aim is to experience time more consciously. With a battery life of up to 2 years, charging the watch becomes superfluous. The label offers four models in up to seven variants at retail prices between 345 and 595 Euros.

Kronaby, Malmö/Sweden, T 0046.723.918514, contact@kronaby.com, www.kronaby.com style in progress 317

Photos: Mitja Arzensek/www.zenivision.com Production and Styling: Sabine Berlipp/www.blossommanagement.de Hair: Sacha Schuette/www.sachaschuette.de Make-Up: Gabrielle 116 MODETheurer/www.basics.berlin Make-Up: Stephan Schmied/www.blossommanagement.de Styling (assistance): Anne Lau Models: Sarah Batt, Ulfar Logason, Vanessa Hänisch/www.vivamodels.de; Ilija Osborn/www.megamodelagency.com; Lale, Micha/www.m4models.de; Jenny and Lan Location: Konsum Studio, Berlin/www.konsum-studio.de

Suit: Joop Turtleneck: Avant Toi Jacket (under suit): Steinrohner Chain: One Fashion Headset Socks: Falke Shoes: Converse 317 style in progress

MODE 117

Eyewear: Iolani Eyewear Suit and shirt: Hugo Tie: Strellson Necklace: Model’s own

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118 MODE

Left: Sweater: Drykorn Shirt: Drykorn Belt: Paige Trousers: Stand Socks: Stance Shoes: Floris van Bommel Right: Coat: Dimitri Net top: Michael Sontag Shorts: Samsoe & Samsoe Shoes: Model’s own

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Choker: Stylist’s own Corsage: Marlies Dekkers Net shirt: Urban Outfitters Belt: Lolita Skirt: Esprit Socks: Stance Shoes: Gola style in progress 317

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Eyewear: Alain Mikli Coat: Onepiece Dress: Escada Bag: Benedetta Bruzziches Shoes: Palladium 317 style in progress

MODE 121

Hat: Stetson Headphones: Skullcandy Parka: Le Temps de Cerises Hoodie: True Religion Shirt: Replay Trousers: Lacoste Shoes: Zign

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122 MODE

Jacket: C.P. Company Feather blouson: Urban Outfitters Striped shirt: Armor Lux Belt: Fred Perry Trousers: Loom

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Top: Dyao by Lan Behrendt Skirt: Marina Hoermanseder Foot accessories: Abury style in progress 317

124 MODE

Earrings: Michael Sontag Dress: I’VR - Isabel Vollrath Bag: Hidesins Milano Shoes: Michael Sontag x Trippen 317 style in progress

MODE 125

Blouson: Mother Tracksuit: Norma Kamali Blouse: Hugo Shoes: Trippen

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Sunglasses: Vava Jacket: Private White V.C. Hoodie: ATF Belt bag: Eastpak Helmet: BMW Boots: Floris van Bommel 317 style in progress

MODE 127

Kimono: Otto d’ame Leather vest: 22/4 Hommes Femmes Knitted scarf: Lacoste Dress: Fabienne Chapot Turtleneck dress and leggings: Allude Boots: Sorel style in progress 317

128 MODE

Eyewear: Pilgrim Sweater: Strellson Mesh shirt: Vladimir Karaleev Braces: Bootik Trousers: Brachmann Shoes: Ugg

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Sunglasses: Vava Blouson: Pinko Shirt: Haupt Bandana: Urban Outfitters Trousers: Goetze Socks: Stance Shoes: Dr. Martens style in progress 317

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Parka: Gina Laumanns Hoodie: Stella McCartney for Adidas Cap: New Era Leggings: Mandala Gloves: Roeckl Socks: Sox in a Box Sneakers: Premiata 317 style in progress

MODE 131

Top: SLY Skirt: Claus Tyler Top: Talbot Runhof (draped in skirt) Gloves: Karl Lagerfeld Bag: Sessun Shoes: Floris van Bommel Sports jacket: Cinque Shirt: van Laack Bow tie: J/B Jacques Britt Slipover: J/B Jacques Britt Trousers: Cinque style in progress 317

132 MODE

Earrings: Urban Outfitters Leather jacket: JN by JN LLovet Shirt: Eleven Paris Pearl necklace: Konplott Rivet belt: Joop Skirt: Lin Art Project Socks: Wolford Bag: Pinko Shoes: Mai Piu Senza

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Coat: MODE Holy Ghost 133 Cardigan: Strenesse Long sweater: Allude

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Waistcoat: 134 MODEJarow Net shirt: Nikita Clothing Belt: Jacob Cohen Jeans: Pepe Jeans Chain: Stylist’s own Leo coat: Samoon Shoes: Nobrand

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MODE 135

Left Dress: Marcel Ostertag Middle Earrings: Pilgrim Jacket: Vladimir Karaleev Bra: Urban Outfitters Shorts: Marcel Ostertag Pants: Nobi Talai Right Waistcoat: I’VR - Isabel Vollrath Silk top: SLY Trousers: ATF style in progress 317

136 MODE

Helmet: HMR Helmets Jewellery, necklaces, earrings, rings: Konplott Shirt: Traffic People Blouse: Jacob Cohen Belt: b.belt Silver skirt: Windsor Gold skirt: Otto d’ame Clutch: Justfab Bag: Tosca Blu Watches: Pop_Pilot and Kapten & Son Shoes: Justfab

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Hat: Stetson Eyewear: Allied Metal Works Checked coat: Strellson Coat: RRD Roberto Ricci Designs Polo shirt: Original Penguin

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138 IN STORE

What a glorious shop front! 23 arched windows lend Sois Blessed its light-flooded aura.

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23 A perfect setting for showcasing extraordinary pieces. The product range of Sois Blessed combines fashion, living, and lifestyle.

shop windows in historical arches are a rarity these days. The extraordinary location of the store, at the hairpin bend between “Prannerstrasse” and “Rochusstrasse”, allows Sois Blessed to illuminate large-scale windows on two sides of its triangular floor space. If the setting comes as a surprise, it may amaze you even more that the store has decided to add a day bar, a florist, a courtyard with chairs, and a new outdoor centre (as a transformable creative space for exhibitions, events, and other ideas) this autumn.

“I FEEL BLESSED” When Gombert discusses her value-focused store for carefully selected fashion, interior items, and lifestyle products, she comes across as a charming idealist who has fulfilled a dream. This dream begins with Sois Blessed.

“It translates into ‘be blessed’.

Personally, I feel blessed with a great life and I would like to pass some of it on to others”,

Sois Blessed/Munich.

A sales area of 550 square metres in the centre of Munich is quite impressive. In her concept store Sois Blessed, Ruth Gombert has created a coherent lifestyle world focused on experiencing the meaning of value with all senses.

Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Sois Blessed

FOCUS ON VALUE

she explains. This intention is reflected in subtle details such as tags with blessings on the neutral shopping bags, in the quiet and informal family atmosphere, and - consequently - in the product selection.

“We rely on an exciting mix that introduces new products and brands that - in some cases - were not available in Munich yet.” For example, one can find artful lace colliers by Austrian Kex Spitzenkultur right next to glamorous designs by Pallas Paris. Prices range from 50 Euros for a t-shirt at entry level to 2,000 Euros for a couture dress. The elegantly designed sales floor harbours some real surprises. The presentation always focuses on looks, not specific brands. Some of the looks are of a nature that one would - upon first glance - never allocate to Munich’s traditional target groups. Gombert smiles, mainly because she believes she is serving an increasing demand for special products with both an honest background story and commercially fashionable designs. She finds these items during her focused international research and during journeys to cities like Paris, Milan, London, and Copenhagen. She is keen to expand her brand portfolio constantly, thereby remaining exceptionally exciting. Her appreciation for value is also reflected in her resistance against the (sadly) quite common sale campaigns in inner cities.

WITH HEART AND MIND When Gombert speaks about giving back with gratitude, she mentions an idea that translates her beautiful words into concrete action. The private label collection of Sois Blessed is created in cooperation with the Hope School in East London, South Africa. All profits are used to fund this school project for HIV-infected children. “We encourage the children to paint, be creative, and discover new things”, she explains enthusiastically. The drawings are used as a basis for the prints and patterns that lend the collections their special charm. Fortunately, she is open to additional charity projects to make her little Sois Blessed world even more valuable.

Ruth Gombert has shown courage.

The name Sois Blessed translates into „I am blessed“ and reflects the store owner‘s self-image perfectly.

Sois Blessed Prannerstrasse 10 80333 Munich/Germany www.soisblessed.com Opening: April 2017 Owner: Ruth Gombert Employees: 6 Sales area: 550 sqm Brands: among others 8 Eden Avenue, Aeron, Alma Frieda, Alexander Laude, Axpasia, Banana Time, Capitana, Dawn Jeans, Dawid Tomaszewski, Drome, Elena Berton, Erika Cavallini, Frenken, Gabriele Frantzen, Gia Couture, Kex Spitzenkultur, La Perlina, L’Autre Chose, Lili Radu, Linda Farrow, Liven, Lug von Siga, Mai Mai, Malaika Reiss, Pallas Paris, Radice, Seventy, Smarteez, Sminfinity, Sly010, The Attico, Vivetta style in progress 317

140 IN STORE

Project 4’s unpretentiously presented product range invites customers on a journey of discovery - like a small antiques store that harbours unimaginable treasures.

F Project 4/Copenhagen

The small store may seem a little inconspicuous, but it is a veritable pilgrimage place for those who appreciate hand-picked design items that have little to do with the mainstream of fashion. It therefore comes as no surprise that Project 4 is often a step ahead in terms of fashion trends.

HOT SPOT Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Project 4

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irst of all, not everyone understands this store. Almost all Copenhagen city guides recommend Project 4 as a port of call for womenswear and new trends. This sounds like the description of a store that appeals to a wide audience. In reality, the range, which can seem a little random at first, is displayed unpretentiously on no more than 63 square metres. However, nothing is left to chance here.

The store consciously creates a product range that allows visitors to embark on an inspiring journey of discovery.

THREE GENERATIONS The selection of brands such as Libertine Libertine, Ventil Studio, Whyred, and Won Hundred has a Scandinavian touch without being too minimalistic. Most collections hail from Denmark, supplemented by international brands. Some are exclusively available at Project 4 in Denmark. These include organic t-shirts and sneakers, feminine dresses, rougher bomber jackets,

wood-framed sunglasses, and recycled sweatpants. The store also stocks classic bags and jewellery. “We believe that people want fashion with quality and products that tell a story, whether they are organic, fair trade, or simply something that can’t be bought everywhere”, says Casper Schandorff, who founded Project 4 six years ago. On a fairly small area, his store has achieved what very few multi-brand concepts have managed: to inspire both 20-year-olds and older customers. “Sometimes, we are visited by a grandmother, a mother, and a daughter and all three buy something”, Schandorff explains.

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The Dane certainly has a sense for trends, even though his career seemed destined to take a different route at first. He initially trained as a teacher and then studied pedagogical anthropology. During his studies, he launched Project 4 in a small road in central Copenhagen.

In the beginning, Schandorff educated handicapped and autistic children in the morning before cycling into town at noon to open Project 4. However, the store soon became his main focus and started to bear fruit.

The Best Female Store Award 2015 awarded by AOK Byens Bedste was merely the first of many prizes. In May, Schandorff turned the basement of Project 4 into a complementary concept store called Concept 4. It stocks special design pieces, books, and magazines with the same intention to create a unique mix of Danish and international design with a focus on new labels and trends.

At Project 4, Caspar Schandorff showcases his keen sense for trends.

Project 4 Larsbjørnstræde 19 1454 Copenhagen/Denmark www.Project4.dk Opening: November 2011 Owner: Casper Schandorff Managing director: Simone Olsson Employees: 4 Sales area: 63 sqm Brands for women: Brixtol, Construction No. 4, Libertine Libertine, The Lakes, Ventil Studio, Won Hundred, and others…

Accessories brands: Asics, Atp Atelier, Dr. Martens, Reebok, Slowtide, The Nomad Society, Ziva, and others…

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142 IN STORE

Wally Gastein is now defined by a blend of Bel Époque charm and a fresh product range.

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B Wally/Gastein.

Where the river rushes down into the valley, Bettina Schuh is actively involved in the revitalisation of the holiday resort Bad Gastein. She recently took over the boutique named Wally and offers fashion highlights for holiday guests, locals, and returnees.

Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Wally Gastein

RIVER SIDE

Bettina Schuh is a trained florist and used to create floral arrangements for events. Today, she is the successor of Wally Vogel. “It is so much fun”, says the Gastein resident by choice.

ad Gastein is often troubled by its glorious past. It was once known as the Monaco of the Alps, a place where royalty came to enjoy spa facilities. After World War II, Bad Gastein itself needed treatment. The venerable buildings in the centre became ruins; the grandeur of the former Grand Hotel was diminished somewhat by package tourism and health insurance patients. Thanks to a handful of innovative hoteliers, Bad Gastein has, however, managed to establish a new image.

The likes of Haus Hirt, Regina, Miramonte, and Rudolfshöhe have attracted a new kind of Boheme. This urban, open-minded, and successful crowd is a chance for Bad Gastein to take a step back and to develop from a morbid ghost town into a hotspot.

Bettina Schuh is one of these catalysts of change. Due to the fact that her mother was born in Gastein, the town was always close to her heart. When the florist and event decorator needed a change of pace, an opportunity in Gastein arose. Wally’s Moden needed a successor and Schuh stepped up. “It was an excellent opportunity to add my personal touch to an established business.” Her captivating laugh rings out frequently, she is a hands-on owner, and she loves working with customers from all over the globe. “I relish the talks, giving advice, and direct contact.” She took over as of the season opening in December 2016 and, one season later, her enthusiasm is even greater. “I love this job.”

DUSTED OFF AND REJUVENATED Wally Gastein caters for both daughters and mothers, for both hipsters and more conservative guests. This balancing act is down to a product range that ranges from chic items by Luisa Cerano to cool pieces by IQ+ Berlin. “Customers need to understand the value of a product”, Schuh explains. “I can’t sell what I don’t like”, she adds while explaining the reasoning behind her buying strategy. She stocks fashion from head to toe, cosy cashmere, beautiful scarves, and accessories, as well as fragrant candles and vegan care prod-

The waterfall of Gastein roars right next door; this is as central as it gets in terms of location.

ucts. This wellness approach is perfectly suited to her customers’ holiday mood. Seeing that she enjoys taking the time to explain her brands, transparent production backgrounds are an import selection criterion.

“Polyester made in China simply wouldn’t work here.” It wouldn’t suit the mindset of the new generation of Gastein lovers and it certainly wouldn’t suit the new generation at Wally.

Wally Straubingerplatz 1, 5640 Bad Gastein, bettina.schuh@wallygastein.com, www.wallygastein.com Takeover: December 2016 Owner: Bettina Schuh Employees: 1 Sales area: 80 sqm Brands for women: Closed, IQ+ Berlin, Irmtraud Lanz Handstickerei, Hemisphere, Herzensangelegenheiten, Lena Hoschek, Luisa Cerano, Not Shy, Opportuno, Simfinity Accessories brands: Becksöndergaard, Be My Friend, Castel Bel, Dirndl & Bua, Lili Radu, Veja, Warm-Me style in progress 317

144 IN STORE

Melanie and Thilo Pfeffer are unconditionally committed to the concept of a multi-brand store that offers a social experience.

B Pfeffers/Essen

Melanie and Thilo Pfeffer have combined their extensive experience in the retail trade and desire to work within an own set of rules in their Pfeffers multi-brand store located in Essen’s “Rüttenscheider Strasse”.

Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Pfeffers

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oth Melanie and Thilo Pfeffer can look back at an exemplary career in the textiles trade. They know the business inside out after working at household names such as Anson’s and Peek & Cloppenburg.

Late 2016, they decided to leave the safety of their secure jobs.

The duo rushed into its first order season without as much as a fixed lease contract. The Pfeffers rely on their own taste in their efforts to establish an exciting multi-brand store in the premium segment. “The store is basically our large wardrobe. We have tried on every single item we offer. We know the strengths of every piece, which allows us to pass on very personal advice”, Thilo Pfeffer says.

OF EXCEL LISTS AND SOCIALISING Thilo Pfeffer can draw a lot from his career to date and combines his experience with his family’s enduring entrepreneurial spirit.

“I used to be the only one in my family who wasn’t self-employed. My grandfather and father ran their own fashion wholesaling and production business. I never really consid-

ered launching my own agency.

I always wanted to do something that combined buying and direct contact with customers.

I enjoy talking about style and taste, I like sharing my experiences.” For the first few weeks after the opening, he and his wife Melanie were in the trenches alone. This was essential in terms of refining the product range. “Excel lists are great and important, as long as you interpret the data correctly. One shouldn’t give up too quickly when a pair of pleated men’s trousers doesn’t achieve the desired turnover rate or amortisation in the first season. Fashionable items can take a while to achieve a breakthrough. If you keep on looking in the rear view mirror, you really shouldn’t be in the fashion business.” The couple are aware of the fact that

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their own store needs to gather momentum. That’s why they decided to settle in the trendy area around “Rüttenscheider Strasse”, which is about five kilometres outside Essen’s centre. “People still stroll here. A cool coffee shop, a good Italian restaurant, a great fashion competitor, and an excellent optician - our new neighbourhood welcomed us with open arms.” Thilo Pfeffer was genuinely touched when the owner of the restaurant next door knocked on the door with two beers. “All is still right with the world here.” But will it remain that way despite the storm-riddled forecast for the fashion trade? “I’m not scared of e-retailers. You can’t offer what we offer online. Shopping isn’t about opening parcels in the living room every other evening.

Shopping is all about trusting someone’s sense of style and having a good chat - the latter maybe even about a good wine,

watches, cars, or vacations. Only formats like our’s can offer such social experiences.”

100 PERCENT Melanie and Thilo Pfeffer are therefore quite aware that they need to back their suppliers completely. “We have chosen all our brands very carefully and we believe in their quality, history, and prices. That’s why I take the full commercial responsibility for everything we buy”, Thilo Pfeffer makes clear. “Where does it lead when one starts listing collections on commission?

Both aspects would suffer. There wouldn’t be enough room for paid goods and nobody would sell the commissioned goods ambitiously because they can be sent back anyway.”

Thilo Pfeffer’s passion is reflected in design classics, books, and photos of style icons and model cars.

The men’s and women’s departments share a sales are of 160 square metres spread out over three split-levels.

Pfeffers Rüttenscheider Strasse 261, 45131 Essen, info@pfeffers-fashion.de, www.pfeffers-fashion.de Owners: Melanie and Thilo Pfeffer Opening: September 2017 Sales area: 160 sqm Brands for women: 7 for all Mankind, American Vintage, Blake Seven, Closed, Colmar, Delicatelove, Dolores… but you can call me Lolita, Herzensangelegenheit, IHeart, IQ+ Berlin, Jacob Cohen, MMX, Parajumpers, Rebel Rose, Rich & Royal Brands for men: American Vintage, Closed, Colmar, C.P. Company, Duffle & Rums, Gant, Jacob Cohen, MMX, Parajumpers, True Friend Accessories brands: Another Bag, B. Belt, Mou, Womsh style in progress 317

146 IN STORE

180 The Store is located in Tribeca, a New York district defined by the cast iron facades of former industrial complexes.

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N

ow that’s what we call a proper welcome! On a hot summer day, the foyer of 180 The Store greets customers with a jungle of purchasable greenery. A few steps further we come across a table full of Eyevan sunglasses. Right at the back, the sun floods through a huge skylight and illuminates delicate jewellery by Kataoka.

Rolling clothes rails present carefully selected pieces by brands such as Nanamica, Christina Lehr, Pero, and WMV.

Airy and mobile - the store presents fashion on clothes rails with wheels.

180 The Store/New York

Tribeca, a chic district of New York, is the home of exciting fashion locations that range from showrooms to this concept store with an Asian touch.

Text: Petrina Engelke. Photos: Justin Bridges

NEW YORK TREASURE TROVE

THE CONCEPT: SHOW INITIATIVE The focus on Japanese brands has no geographical background. Store owner Denise Williamson simply appreciates their quality, care, and attention to detail. “In a world so cluttered with merchandise, this stands out for me”, she argues.

“So I tend to be attracted to brands that put a lot of thought into the way they make their products, and it just so happens that a lot of Japanese companies do that.”

Williamson loves things that are well-made. This applies to her own work, her employee training, and to the selection of brands she represents. She has been doing the latter in two ways for almost a year. After 18 years at the helm of a fashion PR and sales agency, she decided to not only relocate her showroom, but also to open this store.

“The concept is based on being more proactive when it comes to PR and marketing, but also in terms of retail. I feel like New York needs a place of discovery, where you can walk in and find something new”, Williamson says. To ensure that her project is a resounding success, she not only relied on her own experience, but teamed up with Debi Greenberg, who ran Louis Boston, a legendary luxury fashion store in Boston, until 2015.

MOBILE INTERIOR CREATES SPACE FOR SELF-PORTRAYAL Inside the whitewashed store, minimalism blends with warmth as if it were the easiest thing in the world. In fact, the furniture is designed in such a way that the whole room can be cleared

within two hours. Williamson is keen to ensure that her European and Asian customers can present their collections in any way they choose, regardless of the store concept.

“One does need to bow to the seasons a little”, she admits. One won’t find winter coats on the hangers as soon as August. Autumn dresses don’t make an appearance before mid-September.

However, there is a glimpse of the future a little earlier. During the New York Fashion Week, the store is transformed into an event space for the industry, for one of Williamson’s PR clients to be precise. In autumn 2017, it was the Japanese luxury brand Visvim. In the past, the store was also completely redesigned for a book presentation and a cocktail party.

In addition, there are pop-up areas for lifestyle items such as Tokyo Bikes. One of the bikes can be borrowed for a test ride.

These areas are for brands with which Williamson doesn’t work yet. She emphasises the “yet”. After all, the store has already proved that it is not only inspiring for customers. “I never leave”, Williamson laughs about the strain of running a PR and sales agency, a showroom, and a store under one roof. “But I enjoy it. I have met a lot of great people, because we’re open to the public.”

180 The Store 180 Duane St New York, NY 10013 www.180duane.com Opening: February 2017 Owners: Denise Williamson, Debi Greenberg Employees: 4 Sales area: 278 sqm (3,000 sqf) Brands: Blurhms, Chimala, Christina Lehr, Engineered Garments/FWK, From the Road, Nanamica, Pero, Rivay, WMV Brands accessories: Apotheke, Bags in Progress, Domi, Eyevan, Green Fingers, Kataoka, Kofu/Curious Corners, Koio, Suicoke, Surface, Pero, Tokyo Bike style in progress 317

148 IN STORE

Plenty of wood, bronzed metal, and cosy materials - the new Insieme premises were designed by Gogl Architects.

S Insieme, St. Johann in Tyrol

After running Insieme for 15 years, the move to a larger, more modern location is a bit like pressing the reset button for Martina and Edgar Wachel. In their new premises, the two fashion experts perfect what they do best: staging and - of course - selling fashion.

Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Insieme

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ome entrepreneurs perceive their own achievements as so self-evident that they rarely make much fuss about them. Martina and Edgar Wachel are certainly part of this elite circle. In 2016, they relocated their business to new premises. This was an opportunity to explore new horizons. “In the past, we had a mere 90 square metres for women and men; that seemed to be our natural limit”, Martina Wachel explains. The fashion couple now has 200 square metres and two floors to play with - that’s a game changer. “Our ground floor is designed like a showroom, with changing themes that extend from the shop windows onto the sales floor. Sometimes jeans, other times outdoor jackets, and leisurewear…”, she expands on the concept. This inspiring area leads customers up to the upper floor, where both ladies and gentlemen find their fashion Dorado. “We decided against separating the two departments, especially as many of our customers are couples. It’s fun to cater for both sexes.”

PERFECT FIT It was a great opportunity. Both the property owner and Monika Gogl (of Gogl Architects) are friends of the family. “It was always clear that we’d only work with her if we ever decide to redecorate”, Martina Wachel says. It was a stroke of luck that everything fell into place so effortlessly. “It was ideal that we were allowed to influence the planning process right from the beginning.” The new store is very bright, with an emphasis on wood, metal in bronze nuances, brass, and inviting materials such as velvet. “Our customers remain in the store longer than before. We are getting a lot of compliments and everyone feels comfortable”, Martina Wachel beams. However, this comfortable feeling would not be possible without the Wachels. “Working in the fashion trade means that one needs to be in the store from

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Monday morning to Saturday evening, maintain close relationships with customers, and possibly even drink a glass of wine with them. My husband and I are always in the store, unless we are travelling during the order period.” The couple is supported by no more than two part-time employees. “I think that makes all the difference today. Many of our customers don’t want to shop at anonymous mono-brand stores. They appreciate someone who knows them and can create a head-to-toe outfit for them.” This customer relationship approach seems to pay off.

The new store has increased the purchasing volume and revenue.

“We really can’t complain.” This is a sentence one rarely hears in the upscale fashion industry.

“It goes without saying that top advice and many smaller services are self-evident. One needs to offer all that. But that’s what makes it so much fun…”, Martina Wachel is convinced.

The showroom-like staging on the ground floor is complemented by the main sales area on the upper floor. The new Insieme is generously spacious.

Edgar and Martina Wachel are the heart and soul of the store.

Insieme Kaiserstrasse 5, 6380 St. Johann in Tyrol/Austria, info@insieme-mode.at, www.insieme-mode.at Opening: 2016 (after renovation), founded 2000 Owners: Martina and Edgar Wachel Employees: 2 Sales area: 200 sqm Brands for women: 360° Cashmere, 7 for all mankind, Allude, AOS Jeans, Arma, Blauer USA, Blonde No. 8, Cecile Copenhagen, Citizen of Humanity, Como, Drykorn, FFC, Five Units, Giorgio Brato, Jadicted, Iheart, J Brand, Juvia, Lala Berlin, Le Sarte Pettegole, Liv Bergen, M Missoni, Nine in the Morning, Rosemunde, Sly010, T Jacket, Velvet Brands for men: 7 for all mankind, Adhoc, Blonde No. 8, Caliban, Drykorn, Hannes Roether, Juvia, Kiefermann, Myths, Original Vintage, The Nim, T Jacket, Sun 68, Weber + Weber, Accessories brands: 813, Atlantic Stars, Carditosale, Estella Bartlett, Faliero Sarti, Fiorentini + Baker, Inuikii, Lua, NDV, Phlippe Model, Ralph Gladen, Sam Edelman style in progress 317

Robin Wagner, Raphael Kern, and Christopher Magbanua value sustainability and high-quality 150 IN STORE products.

The dynamic start-up presents its goods in barrier-free stores.

Touching is encouraged…

Ein bisschen Bel Époque Charme, dazu ein frisches Sortiment – Wally Gastein.

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develop the Strandmeister idea.

“All the items that others merely display next to the cash desk, we present in a dedicated store.

We stock underwear, jewellery, leather goods, and textiles under one roof.”

R

aphael Kern, Robin Wagner, and Christopher Magbanua have experienced how difficult it is for men to buy accessories. The three young entrepreneurs are industry insiders who learned the business from scratch. They soon realised that most stores offer a wide range of menswear, but hardly any specialise in accessories for men. “As a man, you need to visit five to ten different stores to purchase a watch, a scarf, and - most of all - bags”, Wagner explains. That’s why the three businessmen teamed up to

Strandmeister/Vienna, Linz

“We exist, because you matter to us” - the motto of Strandmeister is a real statement of intent. The young start-up is conquering the market with high-quality slow fashion and a highly innovative store concept.

YOUNG & WILD

Text: Veronika Zangl. Photos: Strandmeister

ALPHA FASHION The Strandmeister store design, which is identifiable in all branches, is custom-made by Vrana. Wagner describes the signature look as “youthful effortlessness meets stylish gentleman”. A high recognition value is achieved by a stringent interior design with uniform furniture. This is supported by herringbone parquet, which is not restricted to the floor.

Instead, the classy pattern continues up the wall in the bag department, which lends the Strandmeister store an innovative masculine touch. It complements the overall concept and accentuates the product range.

“We enjoy working with nostalgic background stories”, Wagner explains gushingly. “We offer pomades from the 1920s while playing music from the 1950s in the background. We sell braces and old-school ties. This not only appeals to men from that era, but also to young people around 30.” In general, Strandmeister is all about deceleration.

The start-up stocks high-quality leather bags by brands such as Aunts & Uncles. The family-run German label still tests every single product it manufactures for quality, seams, and fastenings. Watches and sunglasses in the stores are supplied by brands like Komono, which is normally only stocked by opticians.

The concept seems to be working. Strandmeister launched its first branch, a 140 square metre store in the SCS in Vienna Vösendorf, in February 2016. A 170 square metre store in Vienna’s Donauzentrum followed shortly afterwards. The latest addition is a 140 square metre store in PlusCity in Linz.

Further expansion is not ruled out. The start-up specialises in heavily frequented locations with a high volume of passing trade. “Small inner city locations would be disadvantageous for us”, Wagner emphasises. “Those locations often make it difficult to see what a boutique is

really about, what it really sells.”

When entering a Strandmeister branch, one quickly realises that there is also a specific idea behind the product presentation.

Customers meander past socks, underwear, and accessories before passing by headgear and bags. Without even noticing it, they subtly experience the daily routine of men.

Strandmeister specialises in accessories for men.

Strandmeister - SCS Vösendorf, Shop 92, Allee 214, 2334 Vösendorf/Austria - Donauzentrum, Shop 703, Wagramer Strasse 81, 1220 Vienna/Austria - PlusCity Pasching, Pluskaufstrasse 7, 4066 Pasching/Austria www.strandmeister.at Owners: Robin Wagner, Raphael Kern, Christopher Magbanua Opening: February 2016 Employees: 4 (SCS), 5 (DZ), 5 (PC) Sales area: 140 sqm (SCS), 170 sqm (DZ), 140 sqm (PC) Accessories brands for men: Aunts & Uncles, Burlington, Calvin Klein, Diesel, Eastpak, Falke, Fred Perry, Happy Socks, Hugo Boss, Kapten & Son, Kerbholz, Komono, Lacoste, Levi’s, Lyle & Scott, Paul Hewitt, Pinqponq, Secrid, Tommy Hilfiger, Toms, Ucon Acrobatics, and many more…

Accessories brands for women (selection): Happy Socks, Kapten & Son, Kerbholz, Komono, LeSpecs style in progress 317

152 EDITOR’S LETTER /// ABOUT US

Win – Win – Win – Win...

The topics that I have most intensively discussed in this section of the magazine are probably the upheaval of the trade fair landscape and the ever-changing significance of fashion shows in a comprehensively modified market.

The fact that I’m turning my attention to trade shows again, specifically to the location Berlin, is, however, not reminiscence, but a necessity due to current developments.

Once again, the Fashion Week is at the centre of discussions. The criticism is focused on the offering and portfolio (unjustly), the costs for exhibitors (not completely unjustly), but also the frequency of visitors, the lack of internationality, and - ultimately - the event’s relevance.

The fact that the number and quality of visitors from international markets has declined noticeably cannot be denied. The same applies to the frequency as a whole, but not only in Berlin.

There are numerous reasons for this - both rational and irrational. The question is whether one should simply moan and criticise while accepting the situation, or whether one should consider how one’s own contribution could help.

Restoring the internationality of the audience is a tough task. Berlin doesn’t really fit into the tightly scheduled calendars of buyers from overseas.

Many European markets offer well-organised regional events. And maybe the attraction of Berlin has always been a little overestimated anyway. In order to (re-)convince well-known international buyers, one would need to pull out all the stops.

Other trade show organisers invite and fly in selected prestigious customers. During the era of the Men’s Fashion Week in Cologne, Hugo Boss already had this approach - to the benefit of everyone involved.

However, there are also too few visitors from the German-speaking markets. To be perfectly honest, I have very little understanding for that.

The overall offering of the Berlin Fashion Week is so differentiated and good that there are very few comprehensible excuses not to utilise it. There are, on the other hand, many excellent arguments for using it more intensively than currently.

So here is an idea for - or better: an appeal to specialised retailers. In times like these one, after all, really can’t overestimate the importance of information, exchange, networking, and insights.

Take your employees from the sales department to Berlin too! Invite the trainees too, while you’re at it! It’s easy enough to find affordable 317 style in progress

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accommodation, as long as one prepares early.

Berlin is accessible by train from many corners of Germany; and flights are available at reasonable rates too. Still worried about the costs? Oh come on! Generously calculated, it costs approximately 2,000 Euros (operating expenses!) to enable three employees to experience and absorb the industry in which they work. Money is money, obviously.

But let’s look at the return of investment.

1. Six additional eyes not only see and discover more, they also have a different, younger, and more socialised view. Your travel companions are likely to have a better understanding of how certain target groups express their style and communicate. This is definitely an enormous enrichment.

2. Naturally, the result of such a fact finding mission should be incorporated in a presentation of some sort. During these one can also learn a lot about the employees in question - both their strengths and weaknesses.

3. On top of it all, the attending employees can learn a lot about themselves, as well as about the brands and the products they sell. Naturally, they will also value an employer who affords them an opportunity to experience such a trip. Extra motivation guaranteed!

4. These employees are, of course, multipliers within their own communities. See it as a small boost for the rather tarnished image of the salesperson profession.

Seriously, this is a win-win situation presented on a silver platter. And there’s an additional “win”. If a large number of people finally realise how meaningful such an investment in “human resources” can be, the frequency at trade shows would increase automatically. Let’s not forget that the exhibitors would benefit directly too. After all, these people will sell their products enthusiastically; they will be capable of conveying the background stories of these products competently. Keeping count, that’s our fourth “win” in this article.

It would therefore make sense for the organisers in Berlin to actively promote this desirable development by offering special pricing models.

Good idea? I’m convinced it is! Feedback is more than welcome!

Yours truly, Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at

Publisher, editorial office, advertising department and owner UCM-Verlag B2B Media GmbH & Co KG Salzweg 17, 5081 Salzburg-Anif Austria T 0043.6246.89 79 99 F 0043.6246.89 79 89 office@ucm-verlag.at www.ucm-verlag.at Management Stephan Huber Nicolaus Zott

Editors-in-chief Stephan Huber – always stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Martina Müllner-Seybold – since 2000 martina.muellner@ucm-verlag.at Art direction/production Elisabeth Prock-Huber – always elisabeth@ucm-verlag.at Contributing writers Sabine Berlipp – since 2001 Petrina Engelke – since 2010 Isabel Faiss – since 2007 Ina Köhler – since 2003 Kay Alexander Plonka – since 2007 Nicoletta Schaper – since 2000 Joachim Schirrmacher – from the start Quynh Tran – since 2014 Veronika Zangl – since 2017 Photographers Bernhard Musil – since 2008 Andreas Hechenberger – since 2005 Marina Vorobyeva – since 2017 Illustrator Claudia Meitert – since 2014 Image editor Johannes Hemetsberger – since 2017 Anouk Schönemann – since 2005 Advertising director Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Publisher’s assistant, distribution Sigrid Staber – since 2002 sigrid.staber@ucm-verlag.at Christina Hörbiger – since 2005 christina.hoerbiger@ucm-verlag.at English translations Manfred Thurner – since 2013 Printing sandlerprint&packaging 3671 Marbach, Österreich Printing coordinator Manfred Reitenbacher – since 2009

Next issue 10 January 2018

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