THE AUGUST ISSUE - EVERYTHING IS HAPPENING SO FAST

the back to basics issue

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ev{ryth1n|g 1s ha/p%p{n1n<g so fa$tâ&#x20AC;? bo hodge @ dna by michael epps

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AUGUST / 2 0 1 0

ISSUE

81

THE DAILY FIGHT

List/s are timelines you build^ yourself, ESTUDIO ALBA ANDER L Ø ULOU ROCHA LAURA CALHEIROS J OAO NOBERTO J OSEFINA BIETTI BARBI ARCUSCHIN 2-3 summary

PALLOMA DREHER

4-5 context:

J UAN CRUZ KELLER

6-7 art break 8-9 advertising versus domestic zoom 1 0 - 1 1 PHILIP - LORCA DICORCIA 1 2 - 1 3 FROM BRAZIL WITH LOVE INTERVENTION PAGES 1 4 - 2 1 REAL WORLD 2 2 - 2 3 ROBIN F WILLIAMS VERSUS WINGS OF DESIRE 2 4 - 3 1 THE LOOK : PALOMA BY J OSEFINA BIETTI , STYLING BY BARBI ARCUSCHIN 3 2 - 3 9 - THE LOOK : BO HODGE

BY MICHAEL EPPS 4 0 - 4 1 - PIER PAOLO PASOLINI 4 2 - 5 1 - PARANOID SOLITUDE

BY EDWARD WITH STYLING BY DANIEL ZUCHNIK 5 2 - 5 3 - MEET ME IN THE WIGAN CASINO 5 4 - 5 7 : J AIMZ DEEN INTERVIEW 5 8 - 6 7 - MELINA BY SOHRAB VAHDAT 6 8 - 8 5 - HOME BY ESTUDIO ALBA 8 8 - 8 9 MANIFESTO 9 0 - 9 1 - THE LOOK ACCORDING TO BAUDRILLARD

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FELIPE DIEFENBACH ROBIN F WILLIAMS LILY THOMAS J AIMZ DEEN SANDRA BERMINGHAM MELINA @ SELECT MODELS SOHRAB VAHDAT MICHAEL EPPS BO HODGE @ DNA HELINA IVASK DANIEL EDWARD DANIEL ZUCHNIK J EN BERKELEY NATALIE KEYSER KEN MARCELLE Felipe Mujica.

Mathias Poledna.

Terence Koh. Gayle Chong Kwan.

Stefano Arienti sorcha o’raghallaigh LILY ROSE THOMAS val karuskevich Lukasz Wierzbowski

c o n s i s ting# of friends, fami>ly, co-workers, sports <teams, you name/ it.

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You can change your name on your profile settings.

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1.0

W/h?at is th{ pr1v1l{g{ Triptico optico-psicodelico, 2010 by Felipe Mujica.

“Version”, 2004 by Mathias Poledna.

Forgive me, deer Paris«, 2009 by Terence Koh.

of t/he dea_d?

To d_i+e n!o m=or=e.

Save the last dance for me (dance card), 2010

by G a y l e C h o n g Kwan.

Mantra, 2007 by Stefano Arienti.

Natacha Von Braun: Youre looking at me very strangely.

Lemmy Caution: Yes. Natacha Von Braun: Youre waiting for me to say something to you.

Lemmy Caution: Yes. Natacha Von Braun: I dont know what to say. Theyre words I dont know. I wasnt taught them.

Help me.

Lemmy Caution: Impossible.

Help yourself; then you will be saved. If you dont, youre as lost as the dead of Alphaville.

Natacha Von Braun: I... love... you. I love you.

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1

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2.0

facts of the basic life versus the high fashion scene

Wo^r(k) it hard+e=r, â&#x20AC;&#x153;m|a|keâ&#x20AC;? it bet%ter, d)0< it faster, m\a/ kes us str0_ nger}.

More tha_n ever hour 4ft{r our w\o\rk is n{\/er over.

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2.0

facts of the basic life versus the high fashion scene

People in the world tryin to make ends meet You try to ride car, train, bus, or feet I said you got to work hard, you want to compete Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s like that, and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the way it is

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DiCorcia alternates between informal snapshots and iconic quality staged compositions that often have a baroque theatricality.

Using a carefully planned staging, he takes everyday occurrences beyond the realm of banality, trying to inspire in his picture’s spectators an awareness of the psychology and emotion contained in real-life situations.[4] His work could be described as documentary photography mixed with the fictional world of cinema and advertising, which creates a powerful link between reality, fantasy and desire.

During the late 1970s, during diCorcia’s early career, he used to situate his friends and family within fictional interior tableaus, that would make the viewer think that the pictures were spontaneous shots of someone’s everyday life, when they were in fact carefully staged and planned in beforehand.

He would later start photographing random people in urban spaces all around the world.

When in Berlin, Calcutta, Hollywood, New York, Rome and Tokyo, he would often hide lights in the pavement, which would illuminate a random subject in a special way, often isolating them from the other people in the street[citation needed].

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His photographs would then give a sense of heightened drama to the passers-by accidental poses, unintended movements and insignificant facial expressions. Even if sometimes the subject appears to be completely detached to the world around him, diCorcia has often used the city of the subject’s name as the title of the photo, placing the passers-by back into the city’s anonymity. Each of his series, Hustlers, Streetwork, Heads, A Storybook Life, and Lucky Thirteen, can be considered progressive explorations of diCorcia’s formal and conceptual fields of interest. Besides his family, associates and random people he has also photographed personas already theatrically enlarged by their life choices, such as the pole dancers in his latest series.

His pictures have black humor within them, and have been described[by whom?] as “Rorschach-like”, since they can have a different interpretation depending on the viewer[citation needed]. As they are planned beforehand, diCorcia often plants in his concepts issues like the marketing of reality, the commodification of identity, art, and morality

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church

back from

we got

cool. Just like

body just act

Alright every-

2.0

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4.0

things & forms

CONVERSATIONS f r o m m y o w n p r i v a t e i d a h o , g u s v a n s a n t

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LILY ROSE THOMAS , v a l k a r u s k e v i c h , L u k a s z W i e r z b o w s k i

It’$ =when+ you sta(r) t d_01ng th1ng$ for fr{{, that_ you start to gr0+w wing$.

I$n’7 th@t r1gh7, Mike.

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Getting away from

Scott Favor:

everything feels good.

Mike Waters: Scott Favor:

Yeah, it does.

When I left home,

the maid asked me where I was off to. I said “Wherever.

Whatever. Have a nice day.”

Mike Waters:

You had a maid. If

I had a normal family, and a good up-bringing, then I would have been a well-adjusted person.

It depends on what

Scott Favor:

you call normal.

Mike Waters:

Yeah, it does. Well,

you know. Normal. Like a mom and a dad and a dog, and shit like that. Normal. Normal.

Scott Favor:

So, you didn’t have a normal dog?

Mike Waters:

No, I didn’t have a dog.

Scott Favor:

Didn’t... or... didn’t have a normal dad?

Mike Waters:

Didn’t have a dog or

a normal dad anyway, yeah.

That’s alright. I don’t feel sorry for myself. I mean, I feel like I’m... I feel like I’m... you know... well-adjusted.

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If I had a normal family, and a good upbringing, then I would have been a well-adjusted person.

Mike Waters:

[Laughs] Depends on what you call normal.

Scott Favor:

: Yeah, it does.

Well, you know, normal, like, like a mom and a dad and a dog and shit like that. Normal. Normal.

Mike Waters

: So you didn’t have a normal dog?

Mike Waters: No, I didn’t have a dog.

Scott Favor

Didn’t have a... a normal dad?

Scott Favor:

Didn’t have a dog or, or, or a normal dad anyway. That’s alright. I don’t feel sorry for myself, I mean, I feel like I’m, I feel like I’m, you know, well-adjusted.

Mike Waters:

[Laughs] What’s a normal dad?

Scott Favor:

Mike Waters:

I don’t know.

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Scott Favor:

I never thought I could be a real

model, you know fashion-shit, cause I’m better at full body stuff It.8 okay so long as the photographer doesn’t come on to you and expect something for no pay I’m trying to make a living, you know, and I like to be professional ‘Course if the guy wants to pay me, then shit-yeah.

Here I am for him. I’ll sell my ass, I do it on the street all the time for cash. And I’ll be on the cover of a book. It’s when you start doing it for free that you start to grow wings, Right, Mike?

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Bob Pigeon:

Scott. When you

inherit your fortune, on your twenty-first birthday, let’s see... how far away is this?

Scott Favor:

One week away, Bob, just one more week.

Bob Pigeon:

Let’s not call our-

selves robbers, but Diana’s foresters. Gentlemen of the shade. Minions of the Moon. Men of good government.

Scott Favor:

[under his breath]

When I turn twenty-one, I don’t want any more of this life. My mother and father will be surprised at the incredible change. It will impress them more when such a fuck-up like me turns good than if I had been a good son all along. All the past years I will think of as one big vacation. At least it wasn’t as boring as schoolwork. All my bad behavior I’m going to throw away to pay my debt. I will change when everybody expects it the least.

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4.0

things & forms

w i n g s o f d e s i r e texts

robin f williams

illustrations

/\r{ th{r{ $t|!_!_ 30r_der$? (\/)0r{ th@n ever! {v{ry $tr{{t has its 3ord{r=lin{_.

Between each plot, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a strip of no-manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s-land disguised as a hedge or a ditch. Whoever dares, will fall into booby traps or be hit by laser rays. The trout are really torpedoes. Every home owner, or even every tenant nails his name plate on the door, like a coat of arms and studies the morning paper as if he were a world leader. Germany has crumbled into as many small states as there are individuals. And these small states are mobile. Everyone carries his own state with him, and demands a toll when another wants to enter. A fly caught in amber, or a leather bottle. So much for the border. But one can only enter each state with a password. The German soul of today can only be conquered and governed by one who arrives at each small state with the password. Fortunately, no one is currently in a position to do this. So... everyone migrates, and waves his one-man-state flag in all earthly directions. Their children already shake their rattles and drag their filth around them in circles.

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F|r$7, |*Ll have _a_ bath.

TH | { | n I ’ l l 3 { $h@\/{d by a Tur\Kish baR|b|er who will (\/)a$$@g{ me down t_0 th{ fingertips.

Then I’ll buy a newspaper and read it from headlines to horoscope. On the first day, I’ll be waited upon... For requests, ask the neighbor. If someone stumbles over my legs, he’ll have to apologize. I’ll be pushed around, and I’ll push back.

In the crowded bar, the bartender will find me a table. A service car will stop, and the mayor will take me aboard. I’ll be known to everyone, and suspect to no one. I won’t say a word, and will understand every language.

That will be my first day.

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4.0

\Blo$$om on_ th{ tr{{ y()u know h()w | = f{{l PH o t o g r a p h y b y J o s e f i n a B i e t t i Styling & Make up by Barbi Arcuschin M o d e l o . P a l l o m a D r e h e r @ WAY Thanks to: Juan Cruz Keller, Felipe Diefenbach, mkt mix and duo press

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Ex|st{nc{, l|f{ or B{ing_ |s the_ unm/\ n|f{5t{d r{al_|7y of all that exists, l|v{s, ()r |s

BO HODGE ( DNA ) PHOTO GRAPHED BY MICHAEL EPPS

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Th{ {$${nt|al n/\7ur{ o_f th{ m/\t{r|/

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/\l world |s th@t |t _|s n()n m/\t{r|al deepak shopra

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6.0

the way we wear everything

p/\ r/\n_ 0id / $o_ l|tU \d \e\ PHOTOGRAPHY b y - D a n i e l E d w a r d Styling by Daniel Zuchnik Make up and hair by Jen Berkeley Model: Natalie Keyser @ Elite Model Management

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Vest- Diesel, Shirt- Urban, Skirt- Banana Republic

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Jean Jumper- TopShop

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Vest- Diesel

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Elizabeth and James Dress, Sweater- Helmut Lang

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Denim Vest- Diesel, Shirt and Skirt- American Apparel, Boots-Top Shop

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Denim Vest- Diesel, Shirt and Skirt- American Apparel

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6.0

nightlife

m{{t_m{ in th+{ w|g@n ca$|no The Wigan Casino was a nightclub in Wigan, Lancashire, England. Operating between 1973 and 1981, it was known as a [[File:primary venue for northern soul music. It carried forward the legacy created by clubs such as the Twisted Wheel in Manchester and the Golden Torch in Tunstall, Stoke-on-Trent. It remains one of the most famous clubs in Northern England.[1] This England, a TV documentary about the venue, was filmed in 1977. In 1978, the American music magazine Billboard voted Wigan Casino “The Best Disco in the World”, ahead of New York City’s Studio 54[2]. Russ Winstanley and Dave Nowell wrote a history of the club, Soul Survivors, The Wigan Casino Story, which was published in 1996. A stage play by Urban Expansions, produced and directed by Paul Sadot about the Wigan Casino years, Once upon a time in Wigan, debuted in February 2003 at the Contact Theatre in Manchester, and has since toured nationally.

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3.0

interview

ja}iâ&#x20AC;?m/z+ dee-n= [The enigmatic performer known as Jaimz Deen is tired of being ignored. Years of release delays, a missing music video and obscurity have pushed him to his limit. His debut digital album The Crisis: Episode I introduces a dark imaginary world filled with corruption, torment and mystery. Episode I takes listeners on an epic journey through the mind of a postmodern anti-hero.

He has taken control of his musical fate â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this time, the brother from another planet is not taking no for an answer. We explore the mind of an artist; who may just be as crazy as he seems]

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It’s definitely conceptual. The Crisis is post crack era, but it’s science fiction. I think a lot of people get confused about my work because they haven’t been paying attention to what I’ve been talking about for almost 3 years.

X: First, I have to ask. Are you crazy?

J: I don’t know what that word means anymore.

I don’t claim it. A friend called me that the only day, and it set me off on an hour tangent about what ‘crazy’ is and isn’t. How the fuck am I supposed to answer a question like that anyway? So my answer is no.

Ok, let’s talk about The Crisis: Episode I. is it safe to call it a concept album It’s definitely conceptual. The Crisis is post crack era, but it’s science fiction. I think a lot of people get confused about my work because they haven’t been paying attention to what I’ve been talking about for almost 3 years.

It was important to me to tell a story about the human condition, I wanted to talk about the dark side. When things get to a critical point, what happens? The Crisis is about living in a world that is spinning out of control. Witnessed through the eyes of person who is losing control mentally.

How so?

Jaimz was found in a crack house when he was a baby. He gets on meds as a kid because he’s hyper and hears voices. He thinks he’s hearing the voice of a friend, so that gets him in a lot of trouble.

There’s no explanation, so the foster care system just drugs him the whole time he’s growing up. As an adult, the voice begins to provoke him. This happens, as the world around him is begins to change negatively. He lives in a city run by form of Martial Law called Zoning.

Explain Zoning Zoning is a system where the city is sectioned off into color-coded districts. Zones are designated by socioeconomic class, crime rate and overall importance to the mayor. Gold zones are the areas where all the poor people live. These are the areas heavily policed by corrupt Prowler Offices, who do nothing but make life a living hell for people. Jaimz is a product of the Gold Zone.

He’s pretty much some ghetto foster kid who has had enough. This is where Episode I begins. It’s an introduction.

How did you put all this into music?]

It all started with a story, an idea about a black anime character. It began with crack, Zoning and instability. The music came naturally because the issues where already identified. Like many anti-hero stories, it’s about duality. It’s somewhat surreal, like the Wizard of Oz. Everything in The Crisis world represents something in the real world. It wasn’t meant to be prophetic, but I think its some kind of warning about the world we live in. The songs wrote themselves, because it all feels so real.

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And you wonder why people are confused! Bullshit!

People aren’t idiots; they’re just lazy. When Pink Floyd released The Wall, people were willing to take part in that fantasy. I want to invite people into a fantasy world of my own. If people are confused about The Crisis, it’s because they aren’t interested to begin with. It’s a very easy world to become a part of. Shit, we’re already there. The sound is alterative pop, it’s going to be great to just sit and listen to. People will put it all together with time. I’m not force-feeding the concept to the audience.

So what’s up with the delays?

To be honest, I know I am a complex artist to get to know. But I started this entire project with a passion for the art. After a year or so, it became about business and there was a ton of pressure to become this successful recording artist. I think I lost sight of what The Crisis and Jaimz Deen are all about. I’m done with that though, the Crisis is now!

You shot a music video for Jesse Strange. What is that song about?

It’s about Jaimz’s childhood. The other foster kids call him ‘Jesse Strange’ because they don’t understand him. When he is not sedated, he is constantly fanaticizing about a home of his own. He wants to find out where he comes from, where he belongs. It’s also about you, in a sense that everyone can relate to those feelings as a kid.

The Jesse Strange video was shot almost a year ago. Will we ever see it?

Yes. I am tired of talking about it. Shit happens, but I have a story to tell and I’m not stopping until I’m not breathing. Like I said, business gets in the way a lot. Waiting so long to release it has made me more passionate about the project. This is the first of many videos and short films.

Short films? That’s ambitious given that you’re unsigned I’m an ambitious person. Fuck being signed right now.

When can we finally expect the project to roll out?

The Crisis has become somewhat heavy and even emotional. I think it’s perfect for late summer – early fall. I am very excited about what’s coming. The best part is that it’s not just music, its performance art, film and chaos! I can say that album will be release this year; but I’m not making any more promises.

I’m going to let it be what it will.

I have a feeling it’s going to be amazing. I’m not just saying that because I’ve previewed the album!

4.0

R{a$ on5 t() b{ <h{{r ful_ P h o t o g r a p h y BY SOHRAB VAHDAT S t y l i n g BY HELINA IVASK H a i r & M a k e u p BY SANDRA BERMINGHAM u s i n g MAC c o s m e t i c s Model : Melina @ Select Model Management 0 5 8 / 0 9 4 u _ m a g / 8 1 / AUG / 2 0 1 0

lace leotard Topshop

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pink rubber top by Unique Studio

@ Topshop, coloured leggings by Prophet

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pink blazer by Carly Garwin, wooly pants Unique Studio @ Topshop, braces stylists own

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fishnet top Topshop, wooly pants Unique Studio @ Topshop

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denim jacket Topman, Union Jack leggings Religion

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lace leotard Topshop, pink trousers by Carly Garwin, blue suede shoes Topshop

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floral basque by Kimchi & Blue, stripy trousers American Apparel

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3.0

interview

H()M{ |5 WH { R { TH { HE / \ RT I5

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ESTUDIO ALBA STYLING BY ANDER BEAUTY BY L Ø ULOU ROCHA MODEL LAURA CALHEIROS DESIGN J OAO NOBERTO ALL CLOTHES BY MELK Z - DA SHOES BY AREZZO 2 0 1 0 / AUG / 8 1 / u _ m a g 9 4 0 / 0 6 9

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SUMMER2001,WINTER2002,HAUTECOUTURE SUMMER2003,WINTER2004,SUMMER RE2006,WINTER2006,SUMMER2007 TER 2008, SUMMER 2009, WINTER 20 SUMMER2001,WINTER2002,

HAUTECOUTURE2002,READY TOWEAR2003,SUMMER 003,WINTER2004,SUMMER 2005,RESORT2005,HAUSE COUTURE2006,WINTER 2006,SUMMER2007,HAUTE COUTURE,RESORT2007, WINTER2008,SUMMER2009, WINTER2010,SUMMER2011, WINTER2011,SUMMER2012, RESORT2012,WINTER2013, SUMMER2014

RESORT 2005, HAUTE 2006, WINTER 200 , HAUTE COUTURE WINTER 2008, SUMMER TER 2010, SUMMER 2011, SUMMER 20 WINTER 2013, __________

SUMMER2001,WINTER2002,HAUTECOUTURE2002, READYTOWEAR2003,SUMMER2003,WINTER2004, SUMMER2005,RESORT2005,HAUSECOUTURE2006, WINTER2006,SUMMER2007,HAUTECOUTURE, RESORT2007,WINTER2008,SUMMER2009,WINTER 010,SUMMER2011,WINTER2011,SUMMER2012, RESORT2012,WINTER2013,SUMMER2014 SUMMER2001,WINTER2002,HAUTECOUTURE2002, READYTOWEAR2003,SUMMER2003,WINTER2004, SUMMER2005,RESORT2005,HAUSECOUTURE2006, WINTER2006,SUMMER2007,HAUTECOUTURE, RESORT2007,WINTER2008,SUMMER2009,WINTER 010,SUMMER2011,WINTER2011,SUMMER2012, RESORT2012,WINTER2013,SUMMER2014 SUMMER2001,WINTER2002,HAUTECOUTURE2002, READYTOWEAR2003,SUMMER2003,WINTER2004,

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COUTURE2002,READYTOWEAR2003, SUMMER2005,RESORT2005,HAUSECOUTU7,HAUTECOUTURE,RESORT2007,WIN010,SUMMER2011,WINTER2011,SUM

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Everyone is lo l00ks. Because th ble to comprehen its own existence their looks, not c seen, nor even ab says to himself: but: I see, I - the not even narcissi 0 9 0 / 0 9 4 u _ m a g / 8 1 / AUG / 2 0 1 0

oking for their he more impossind the meaning of e, can only flaunt caring that to be bout to be. No one I exist, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m here, image to see! Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ism, it is - super2 0 1 0 / AUG / 8 1 / u _ m a g 9 4 0 / 0 9 1

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SPECIAL THANKS TO: JAIMZ DEEN, KEN MARCELLE, MICHAEL EPPS, MKT MIX, DUO PRESS, FFW

content: ESTUDIO ALBA ANDER LØULOU ROCHA LAURA CALHEIROS JOAO NOBERTO JOSEFINA BIETTI BARBI ARCUSCHIN PALLOMA DREHER JUAN CRUZ KELLER FELIPE DIEFENBACH ROBIN F WILLIAMS LILY THOMAS JAIMZ DEEN SANDRA BERMINGHAM MELINA @ SELECT MODELS SOHRAB VAHDAT MICHAEL EPPS BO HODGE @ DNA HELINA IVASK DANIEL EDWARD DANIEL ZUCHNIK JEN BERKELEY NATALIE KEYSER KEN MARCELLE Felipe Mujica.

Mathias Poledna.

Terence Koh. Gayle Chong Kwan.

Stefano Arienti

CREATIVE DIRECTOR: ROMEU SILVEIRA

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the last look

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