X_ _ _ do X_ _ stoljeća.

“It was a beautiful, clear morning, there was no wind, no sea breeze. The sea in Bakar Bay was calm and shiny like a mirror, the air was clear and cool after the storm that subsided at daybreak. Old and rich Bakar town basked beautifully in the morning sun: it spread out along the sea while narrowed up, rising the steep slope with a five-fold row of houses gracefully towering over each other as if each one wanted to be reflected in the clear and magical bay. At the highest point of the town, there is a dark building with its crowned tower: Zrinski-Frankopan “castle”, spreading its powerful wings like a gray falcon: it spread its ramparts towards the sea and encompassed the whole town.”

That’s the way my town was described by Eugen Kumičić in his literary work “Zrinski-Frankopan Conspiracy”.

Let’s continue upwards. When we get to Plačica Square, it will be too crowded because the whole town gathers around the Turkish House and the Co-Cathedral. We’ll go our way – sweep through the narrow street leading to the left of the Turkish house, that odd-looking yellowish building. At the wall marked 225, turn left.

The Church of Holy Cross

This little church is so unusual and mysterious. It is faced differently from other churches in Bakar. Built to greet one of the most beautiful sunrises on the Adriatic? Even nowadays a priest still performs divine service with his back turned to the faithful. The church played a huge role on the Feast of the Savior, 40 days after Easter. Processions with a cross were held on this occasion. The Church of Holy Cross (Crkva sv. Križa) preserves so many peculiarities that I always think of when I pass by.

BONUS CHALLENGE: THE NARROWEST PASSAGE

Once we have seen Holy Cross Church, I would like to show you one of the most beautiful buildings in Bakar. You can approach it from several sides. I’ll keep on going up through the narrowest passage in the town. Follow me!

SUGGESTION: Visit the Interpretation Center of the cultural and tourist route The Routes of the Frankopans (Putovima Frankopana) located in the Castle.

Roman house

When I reach the so-called Roman house (Rimska kuća), a former monastery, I remember the dreary last days I spent imprisoned in the monastery. As if it wasn’t enough that my husband Petar Zrinski and half-brother Fran Krsto were executed as conspirators! It seemed to be the end of both my families. At that time, we had no idea we would live forever, thanks to your memories of us. Once upon a time I noted in my verses: “These were severe, miserable and mean times.”

There is an Interpretation Center in the Castle, part of the cultural-tourist route the Routes of the Frankopans. My family left many monuments behind. It is difficult to list them all, but if you go around the Castle, you’ll come across a reminder. How many locations are there on this route? Visit them all, because we love our visitors!

BONUS CHALLENGE: FIND BAKAR

Have you noticed the inscription written in old Croatian Script using Glagolitic alphabet? It is placed right over the entrance to the Castle. My last bonus challenge for you: find the word Bakar. Don’t tell me you’re not familiar with Glagolitic! It doesn’t matter, I’ll teach you. I left you a cheat sheet on the last pages.

Castle

How many locations are there on the Routes of the Frankopans?

We have finally arrived! I really wanted to show you our mighty Castle! What are your thoughts? Although it is an authentic witness of past centuries, it has changed a lot. It has been upgraded, it suffered sometimes, for a time the tower was even decorated with a crown. Unfortunately, it was destroyed in a great earthquake of 1750. If you have a close look at the gate leading outside the town, you might think it’s older than me. However, it was built in 1848 thanks to Count (in Croatian: ban) Josip Jelačić and was therefore named in his honor Banska Vrata (Banska gate).

So much for that. I’ll stay in my Castle, as for you, I suggest you go down town to the coast and take whichever way you want. If you meet Andrija and his explorers somewhere on the way, greet them! Find yourself a cozy place and solve my riddle on page 22.