TWO #29

Mar/Apr 2015 | Issue #29

SPRING DO YOUR THING!

GUEST EDITOR

LIZ MARTINS KARL PLEWKA / ADAM de CRUZ

SVEN-ANTON SVENSSON MAKE-UP MARY GUTHRIE PHOTO

PUBLISHERS SAM CHAPMAN & NICOLA HASTE ART DIRECTORS DANIEL CRAWFORD & STEVE SHIPLEY

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he’s back by dope demand!” Or so went the lyrics by King Bee – one of favourite hip hop songs. Yes make-up mavens and beauty junkies, after a 6-month hiatus I am not only back with my column ‘Tales From the Chair’, but I was very kindly asked to guest edit this issue! Double whammy!

Last year saw me travelling my little socks off for work and what with organising my wedding in both London and Goa – it was all quite overwhelming. But I am so glad to be back, sharing my adventures and anecdotes with you.

This issue is extra special for me as I have interviewed not one, but two very special creatives who I admire and have personally had the pleasure of working with. Karl Plewka, mega stylist and one of the pioneers of ‘grunge’ (the first time round kids!) and Adam de Cruz, make-up artist who assisted me many moons ago and whose talent is finally being acknowledged. He produced the best make-up look of London Fashion Week by far for Eudon Choi!

The thing I love about TWO Magazine is that it platforms both the established and upcoming artists, it takes such dedication to make it in this industry and I salute all those with the tenacity to never give up! I really hope you enjoy this issue as much as I have enjoyed editing it.

Liz Martins. x

SUBMISSIONS IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO SUBMIT PHOTOS PLEASE NOTE THAT WE LOOK FOR STRONG BEAUTY STORIES THAT HAVE A MINIMUM OF THREE DIFFERENT IMAGES WITH CHANGES OF MAKE-UP THAT ARE FROM THE SAME SHOOT. FOR FASHION FOCUSED STORIES, WE PREFER A MINIMUM OF FIVE SHOTS WITH CHANGES OF STYLING, THANK YOU. PLEASE EMAIL SUBMISSIONS@TWO-MAGAZINE.COM PLEASE DO NOT EMAIL REGARDING WORK EXPERIENCE/INTERNSHIP AS WE ARE CURRENTLY UNABLE TO TAKE ANYONE ON.

DESIGNED BY

C O N T R I B U T O R S //

NEIL MOODIE

LIZ MARTINS

F R E Y– J A B A R K E R

RACHEL WOOD

STACEY OAKES

HEIDI SCARLETT KING

International hairstylist, director of Windle & Moodie Salon /WAM hair tools. Likes Sushi and dogs.

London based make-up artist and skincare specialist. Lover of all things that sparkle!

Pro make-up artist that’s rarely in one place for longer than 5 minutes! An editorial,TV and fashion show queen.

TV Beauty expert (as seen on ITV This Morning, Sky Fitness and Beauty channel).

CORINNA HARROD

ASHER COLEMAN

D R R E N É E H OE NDE R KAM P

LISA KIRWAN

Professional make-up artist and beauty blogger. Worked in nonfiction at HarperCollins.

A qualified doctor with a passion for the best non-surgical aesthetic treatments around!

Make-up artist, nail tech, fashion graduate and full-time dork!

Professional make-up artist, writer, lover of art, words, music and all things British!

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Make-up artist, blogger, PR and course co-ordinator for Pixiwoo.

A make-up maverick with a passion for fashion, music, innovation and creation!

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KARL PLEWKA, STYLIST

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AMBER EGGLEDEN AND DOMINIC PAUL

LIZ MARTINS

RACHEL WOOD FREY-JA BARKER

EMIL LANOS AND BOLANLE OKUSANYA FEYITA

BEN C.K. AND MAYILLAH EZEKIEL

DR RENÉE HOENDERKAMP SVEN-ANTON SVENSSON AND MARY GUTHRIE MARIE ABSOLOM AND EL L IE TOBIN

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01 // GIO R GIO AR MANI EYE T I NT Liquid eye colours in 12 shimmering or matte shades. These deliver super long-wearing colour with a bold pigment. Can be worn in colour washes alone or layered on top of each other.

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0 2 // ANAS TAS IA BEV ER LY HI L L S CREAM CONT OUR K I T Book style compacts of cream contour. Available in packs of light, medium and deep they cater for all your contour needs. Provides a mix of complimentary contour colours.

0 3 // FAC E MATTER S ALL DA Y SPRI T Z A pure collagen boosting skin spritz. This spray will stimulate collagen production whilst freshening a fatigued skin. Spritz over the skin as the last step of your skin care regime or throughout the day over make-up.

0 4 // YS L V O LU P TE TINT IN OI L Perfect remedy for dry, winter ravaged lips. The balmy oils will soothe, and moisturise whilst giving a natural tint to the lips. The colour will enhance your natural lip colour.

0 5 // LAN C O ME MIR AC LE CUSHI ON Lightweight cushioned foundation which takes its inspiration from the Korean market. Fresh, natural skin with a satin finish. The compact style application makes it the perfect choice for travel.

06 // NARS ALL DAY LUMINOUS WEIGHTLESS FOUNDATION A full cover foundation which is perfect to even the skin and hide imperfections whilst giving a subtle radiance. Better suited to combination/oily skin type rather than a dry skin.

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WIGHT ON WIGHT

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P HO TO GRAP HE R

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A D V A UGHA N

P HO TO

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P HO TO S

A D V A UGHA N

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A D V A UGHA N

P HO TO

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PHOTO

NICK HADDOW

INTERVIEW BY LIZ MARTINS

WEB // DANDVMANAGEMENT.COM/LONDON INSTAGR A M // INSTAGR A M.COM/K ARLPLEWK A T WIT TER // T WIT TER.COM/K ARLPLEWK A

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KARL PLEWKA IS NOT JUST MY GOAN BEACH BUDDY HE IS A FASHION LEGEND, WORKING WITH SOME OF BIGGEST PHOTOGRAPHERS IN THE BUSINESS AND CREATING GROUND BREAKING LOOKS, KARL PUTS THE X INTO SEX AND I GOT TO CHAT WITH HIM ABOUT ALL THINGS CHIC AND LUX THIS MONTH!

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CHLOE HAYWARD FOR VOGUE ITALIA PHOTO

ELLEN VON UNWERTH

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Karl, you’ve been at the forefront of the fashion world for more than two decades, what drew you to fashion and becoming a stylist?

I come from a family of stylish people and appearance was always a big priority when I was growing up. My early memories of fashion and what it is to be chic probably come from my mother and her mother for

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“I

MOVED ON TO WORK FOR VIVIENNE WESTWOOD FOR FOUR YEARS. IT’S THE PERIOD WITH VIVIENNE THAT I THINK OF AS MY TRUE FASHION TRAINING. I LEARNT EVERYTHING WORKING FOR HER.” whom it was all about a very classic, understated look. My father went shooting and wore the whole get up right down to the sock garters below his tweed Plus Four trousers – it was this attention to detail that instilled in me the importance of clothes and how you could say much with them.

Who did you assist when you first started and how did that come about?

I started off working for the designer John Richmond as a production assistant and then moved on to work for Vivienne Westwood for four years. It’s the period with Vivienne that I think of as my true fashion training. I learnt everything working for her.

You and Corinne Day were part of the pioneers who introduced

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Do you think ‘style’ can be taught?

Did you go to university or art school to study style or was it a natural thing that came to you?

A stylish person is so by birth but a good stylist must work at it, even though styling is basically instinctive. I never studied but I trained hard as an assistant and learned both fashion history and clothing construction from working for designers and fashion editors. The bottom line is confidence, being able to hold ones nerve all the way through a sitting however difficult: no hesitation, no deviation.

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the ‘grunge’ look way back in the 90s which has now come back to bite us on the arse for the second time around… Can you describe that time in fashion and how and why it came about?

It was actually the brilliant stylist Melanie Ward who really kick started the ‘grunge’ look with Corinne, but I was around them socially at the time of those first stories for The Face and it was one of the most thrilling times of my life. You really had the sense that something new and radical was happening both in fashion and in youth culture.

And as with any great stylistic moment the imagery from that time has not dated or lost its provocative power. To be honest the current 90s revival in fashion causes a luke warm reaction in me. Been there!

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How would you define your own style? Is there a particular period that has influenced you most?

I like the girl to look real. I think that comes from my years of working with Corinne. I like luxury but with a edge of reality – scruff/luxe perhaps? I really need a sense of character to come from the model; there must be energy, there must be sexuality, there must be mystery and the bottom line is it must feel like I wasn’t there.

Where do you find your inspiration?

I’m mainly inspired by the things I see around me. I love watching people not just for the way they dress but also for the way they move.

I love dance from contemporary to classical ballet. My most treasured book is an art photography book on Martha Graham, a HUGE hero of mine and an endless source of ideas for new silhouettes. Also movies are a fundamental source of ideas for most stylists. I guess the last place I look for inspiration is the runway – stylists should always be ahead of designers.

How do you think the industry has changed since you first started?

The industry is a completely different place from when I started but I try to embrace it. Many people who’ve been around as long as I have complain about the commercialisation of fashion. I think whatever…

RO FO

PHO

G

GREG WILLIAMS

OTO

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OSIE HUNTINGTON WHITELEY R Vs. MAGAZINE

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CORINNE DAY i-D FILES FOR i-D MAGAZINE

PHOTO

CORINNE DAY

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For sure, fashion’s had its balls clipped a bit but the past is done, stop mourning, stop moaning, move on!

You travel the world endlessly, what are your travel beauty essentials?

I know you love a product!!!

I break out terribly using sun protection but the Sisley sun care range is absolutely amazing; no pimples, no burn and you smell divine.

“I’M

VERY SHALLOW SO BEAUTY FOR ME IS ABSOLUTELY ON THE OUTSIDE.” You have worked with some of the most prolific hair and make-up artists in the world, are there any memorable shoots that you can describe to me where you’ve been blown away by their artistry?

I remember once, before the onslaught of moodboards, working with the make-up artist Lisa Butler and I just could not articulate to her how I wanted the girl’s make-up to be. In true Lisa style she just shrugged her shoulders and said, “Oh, you just want her to look a bit cross.”

She’d nailed it of course which illustrates Lisa’s true genius. It was all about a graphic eyebrow, by the way.

Mentioning no names, tell us a funny fashion shoot related anecdote.

Karl Lagerfeld once caught me messing around with the hairdresser James Brown before a shoot for Interview magazine. Karl suddenly appeared in the doorway of his studio and, unbeknown to me, watched me catwalk the length of the room wearing Chanel before casually remarking “Oh my dear, you should always wear Chanel haute couture!”

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Which person or thing defines beauty for you?

I’m very shallow so beauty for me is absolutely on the outside. I think we’ve never found a replacement for either the young or the old versions of Charlotte Rampling. I have no transsexual persuasions but Charlotte is who I would want to look like if I were to come back as a woman.

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CLAUDIA SCHIFFER

FOR

GUESS PHOTOS

ELLEN VON UNWERTH

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What is your daily beauty routine? I know you have one, I’ve seen the vast array of products laid out in your bathroom in Goa! It’s getting simpler as I get older funnily enough. I start the day with Sisley Buff And Wash then apply Dr Sebagh’s Serum Repair (my desert island product). In the evening I wash with Dr Sebagh’s Breakout Cleanser and pat on Clarin’s Blue Orchid Face Treatment Oil and Dr Senagh’s Eye Expert.

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What do you do to unwind in your freetime?

I am obsessed with working out, running and hot yoga.

I try to do all three on my days off. I also watch tons of movies and am a voracious reader. I also walk my dog for at least three hours a day so there’s little time for other stuff.

And finally, what are your plans for 2015 – apart from returning to Goa in December? Take us back to paradise!

For 2015 I want to do more weekends in the countryside with friends and our dogs. It really is quite necessary to get away from London as much as possible. I have also got weddings abroad, lots of travelling for work and, of course, MONTE CARLO Goa in December!

HELMUT NEWTON NADJA AUERMANN STEFANIE SEYMOUR PRINCESS STEPHANIE OF MONACO SAM BRYANT NEIL MOODIE

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M AK E - UP

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P HO TO

A M BER EGGL ED EN

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A M BER EGGL ED EN P HO TO

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P HO TO

A M BER EGGL ED EN

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A M BER EGGL ED EN P HO TO

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RED CAR–PET REA–DY

SKINCARE WITH FREY-JA BARKER W W W.T WO -- M AGA Z I N E.CO M I S S U E 29 // M A R– A P R 2015

IT’S THAT TIME OF YEAR WHEN ALL THE GLAM SQUADS ARE OUT IN FORCE MAKING THE HOLLYWOOD A-LIST LOOK THE GLAMOROUS SUPERSTARS WE KNOW AND LOVE. A LOT OF PREPARATION GOES INTO THE LOOKS, USING SOME OF THE BEST PRODUCTS OUT THERE. HERE ARE A FEW TOP ESSENTIALS TO HELP YOU LOOK LIKE YOU BELONG ON THE RED CARPET.

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EYES 27 BIO-RESTRUCTURING CELL REPAIR EYE CREAM

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Sadly if we’re tired, stressed or haven’t slept well our eyes always give us away.

They’re the first place to show the signs and due to the delicate skin around the eye area it needs a little extra help.

Eyes 27 Bio-Restructuring Cell Repair Eye Cream is a natural light weight fluid created by pharmacist, Michele Evrard, in Paris. It not only targets multiple concerns with the eye area but it is actually proven to work too.

Clinically proven to reduce bags by 42%.

Reduction in dark circles by 37%.

Reduction in length of lines by 28%.

Reduction in depth of lines 20%.

Provided you’re sure to apply it twice a day for 28 days.

RADICAL FIRMING BODY MULTI-REPAIR It’s important not to forget the body when getting red carpet ready. No one wants cellulite legs and bingo wings swinging when waving at the crowds.

Try Radicals new Firming Body MultiRepair. A rich body cream that will target the five main concerns: anti-aging, firmness and elasticity, dark spots, nutrition and hydration. Macadamia and palm nut oil is combined with Shea butter for rich hydration of the skin while seaweed extract helps prevent excessive melatonin. The cream is packed full of vitamin C and other

RED CAR–PET REA– DY antioxidants to protect the skin. While the horse chestnut will help drain toxins from the body and smooth cellulite.

Leaves your skin toned and smooth, firmer and hydrated whilst giving clarity and a more uniformed tone. If you are a fan of their skincare then you will love this. No need to worry about showing off a little flesh!

SHINSO ESSENCE For those of you that really mean business and want those instant fix results then

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–-

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Meanwhile Fullerenes will emulate a powerful microscopic sponge that will

detoxify and allow your skin to create plumper, healthier skin cells. It also contains Argireline a peptide that will smooth out and reduce fine lines and wrinkles. The mystical magic has to be seen to be believed but once you do, nothing else will ever compare!

Now you too are ready for your close up simply grab your Real Technique Bold Metals brushes and dust a little make-up on and there you have it, you are ready to go!

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EMIL LANOS

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PHOTOGRAPHER

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PHO TO

EMIL LANOS

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EM IL L A NOS P HO TO

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PHO TO

EMIL LANOS

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THE CHAIR LIZ MARTINS shares INSIDER tips and tales in HER exclusive COLUMN

O

h it’s good to be back, and what a whirlwind it’s been since January – I got married in Goa and then came back from floating on a blissful cloud to going straight into surgery for a knee operation – but nothing can keep me away from my paint and brushes and so it was great to kick start my way back into work by teaming up with my longtime friend, photographer John Paul Pietrus. We shot a lovely Denim story for Seventh Man magazine – there are more and more men’s mags coming out and lots of fantastic new products catering for their skin. I am a now massive fanatic of Aesop products, they are calming gentle and a great foundation to start prepping men’s skin, I’m a particular fan of the Moroccan Neroli Post Shave Lotion, which is great for post shave irritation or aggravated skin – it really absorbs and leaves the skin smooth like butter.

I shot a beautiful story for Alvar magazine, the styling palette was all based on pastels so I worked that into the make-up keeping the skin as real as possible – very little base, in fact all I used was a little concealer under the eyes, I drenched the models skin with my favourite Sisley All day All Year moisturizer and then on the eyes I mixed a pale powdery blue using MAC Chromacake in Clear Sky Blue and White. Using an angle brush I lined the top of the eye without winging it out at the end – winged liner is out for me at the moment - far more modern without it! I used no mascara so as not to break up the liner. I then used MAC Love Cloud blush to give her cheeks a powdery flush just on the top and flicking upwards towards the temples.

Onto London Fashion Week… well I had to miss it this time round due to my knee op but I did manage to travel up to Manchester and head the team for the M&S show – with a fantastic team courtesy of Cassie Lomas’s Creatives Agency – with 20 girls and 3 boys the look was quintessential brit – beautiful glowing skin, smoky slate/taupe eyes and a few different lip textures and colours from true reds to buttery nudes – I discovered M&S Autograph Ultimate Shine Twist Up Lip Colour in Nude and Peach, a gorgeous texture which was full of moisture and left the lips stained to perfection – and such a bonus that you don’t need to sharpen it, just twist ‘n’ go!

That’s all for now kids… See ya next time for more tales from the chair! She’s back!!!

Liz xx

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Instagram snapshots of the pros at work and play.

instagram.com/lotstar

instagram.com/lotstar

instagram.com/thelizmartins instagram.com/thelizmartins instagram.com/iamsamfine

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instagram.com/iamsamfine

instagram.com/ashercoleman instagram.com/ashercoleman

instagram.com/neilmoodie

instagram.com/adamdecruz

instagram.com/adamdecruz

LIZ MARTINS

Salon System have teamed up with top make-up artist Liz Martins; whose work includes shoots for Vogue, Elle, Tatler and celebrities Girls Aloud, Cheryl Cole and Shakira.

Known as the Lash Queen, Liz has designed lashes for the Girls Aloud Tours and was brought in to revamp the make-up looks on the X Factor in 2010.

Now she has brought her expertise to the launch of her very own lash collection – Liz Martins Lash Enhance, exclusively for Salon System.

DESIGN Explore your creativity, apply individually or layer lashes together in any number of variations for a totally unique and individual style.

SELECT Add volume and length to enhance and define. Natural and intense individual lashes.

THE COLLECTION...

ELEVATION Dramatic lash that draws attention to the centre of the eye.

ENHANCE Combines depth and length to enhance and open the eye.

DEFINE Adds volume and definition to lower lashes.

INSPIRE Classic inspired lash with a touch of light.

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ELENA P H O TO G R A P H E R

S V E N - A N TO N S VEN S S ON W W W. S V E N - A N TO N . CO M M A KE - U P

M A RY G U TH R I E W W W. A B TP. CO M H A I R S TY LI S T

S H I N Y A N A KA G A WA W W W. S H I N Y A N Y C.CO M N A I LS

ANA-MARIA

W W W. A B TP. CO M MODEL

E LE NA S A R TI S O N

@WILH E L MI NA

W W W. W I LH E LM I N A . CO M

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SVEN-ANTON SVENSSON PHOTO

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SVEN-ANTON SVENSSON

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SVEN-ANTON SVENSSON PHOTO

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SVEN-ANTON SVENSSON

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ADAM de CRUZ

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INTERVIEW BY LIZ MARTINS

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I GOT TO CATCH UP WITH ADAM DE CRUZ, LONG TIME FRIEND, COMEDIAN AND, OH YEAH, ONE KICK-ASS MAKE-UP ARTIST! AN ARTIST WHO PAYS ATTENTION TO DETAIL AND AN ORACLE ON ALL THINGS SKIN!

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WEB // YUMIKOTO.COM INSTAGR A M // INSTAGR A M.COM/ADA MDECRUZ T WIT TER // T WIT TER.COM/ADA M M AKEUP PHOTO

JOHN PAUL PIETRUS

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FOR

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ALIX MALKA

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So Adam, fresh after London Fashion Week, how are you feeling?

Am very good thanks. Not stopped! Mustn’t grumble though!

I’m gonna start with the obvious question: Do you remember when you first decided to become a make-up artist?

I can’t remember the exact moment I thought I would become a makeup artist. I was going out loads back in the day and I used to get my DJ friend, Smokin Jo, ready loads before her gigs. She plays up and down the country and I would go with her back then. I used to spend hours doing her make-up... LOL, HOURS! She was becoming very big, then one day Wolfgang Tilmans came to shoot her for a story they were running on her for Interview magazine and that was my first editorial!

Are you self-taught or did you train somewhere?

I guess up to that point I was self taught. I was doing quite a bit of drag back then so I guess you kinda’ learn quite quickly about make-up.

I had always painted when I was at school and I guess this is just a different medium. I also love make-up and products… reading up on ingredients and what they do… all that helps.

Who or what inspires you?

People REALLY inspire me. I could be walking down the street and see someone who might inspire me… Different personalities, conversations. I go to exhibitions, see textures and colours. I get inspired by travel. Most of the time its a just feeling.

How would you define your style?

How would I define my style? I guess I’m more about the girl. My make-up would never mask the girl… she will always shine through.

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“ I LEARNT almost everything through ASSISTING. How everyone works DIFFERENTLY and how people reference differently and how to BEHAVE ON SET… HOW to behave at work… HOW TO HAVE YOUR KIT … How to be! IT’S INSPIRATIONAL. Assisting was the best EDUCATION.”

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CINDY CRAWFORD FOR CITIZEN K MAGAZINE PHOTO WWW.JOHNPAULPIETRUS.COM

FOR

HARPERS BAZAAR CHINA PHOTO JOHN PAUL PIETRUS

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ELLE MAGAZINE PHOTO WWW.JAMESMOUNTFORD.COM FOR

I love gorgeous skin. Making it look like she has almost no base on but still flawless. Then I like one strong detail, be it a brow, an eye or a lip. I bet you the next shoot I do I put EVERYTHING on now! Lol! Are there any particular periods that you love and reference often?

I love the graphicness of the 60s, the sexiness of the 70s and the colours of 80s… LOVE! I guess I go to these periods quite often.

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How do you think you have grown as an artist?

There are things that only come with experience. I now know when to push and idea and when you have to hold back. How to act in certain stressful situations. So I guess I’ve grown to be more confident as an artist.

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One product you would advise to never leave home without?

For me it would be Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage. You just need the one Palette and that will be good for your entire face. You can cover anything, camouflage any blemishes. It’s fantastic, a little tricky at first, but once you get the hang it’s brilliant.

Did you assist along the way?

I assisted loads along the way... I started out with Jay Maskery and Liz Daxhauer. Then did shows with you, Lucia Peroni, Miranda Joyce, Val Garland and Pat McGrath.

What did you learn from your experience as an assistant?

I learnt almost everything through assisting. How everyone works differently and how people reference differently and how to behave on set… How to behave at work… How to have your kit… How to be! It’s inspirational. Assisting was the best education and I had some of my best times assisting.

How do you feel the industry has changed since you first started?

Everyone is a make-up artist nowadays… LOL! Soooooooooo many people doing make-up! They go to school and come out thinking they are ready for the business. What they don’t realise is that it

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HARPERS BAZAAR PHOTO JOHN PAUL PIETRUS

FOR

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ARISE PHOTO JOHN PAUL PIETRUS

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takes years of hard work. I do wonder sometimes what work they are all doing. Besides that, it’s a lot more instant nowadays with the internet and social media. Loads more people see it straight away and people talk to you on social media too.

Which person defines beauty for you?

Too many to mention… Barbara Streisand, Audrey Hepburn, Angelica Houston, Lauren Hutton… the list is endless.

Tell us a funny industry-related story.

Lol! This was a little while ago now… It was for a HUGE make-up brand, a collaboration they do with huge pop stars almost every year.

All proceeds from the sales of the lipsticks go to aids related charities.

It’s a HUGE campaign! I was working with one of the stars who had flown in from Amsterdam for a press conference. She was 28 hours late and they had to reschedule the whole thing. When she eventually arrived she went and locked herself in a room for four hours! When we could finally get in she asked to be painted extra pale. When we finally emerged from the room and got up FRENCH VOGUE to the press conference I guess she didn’t know where we were and in SEYCHELLES her speech she said she was here to RICHARD AVEDON present a cheque to the Terrence Higgins Trust for 25,000 pesos! LOL! CHRISTY TURLINGTON She was fired after that. True story.

CHRISTAIN GRACE CODDINGTON

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What do you like to do in your free time?

If I have a day off I stay in bed until at LEAST 10am. I LOVE cooking, reading recipe books, eating out, anything food related basically.

Lol! Looking for new products, catching up with friends, exhibitions, research, when I have a lot of free time I like to travel.

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E S S E N T I A L R E A D I N G //

MAKEUP THE ULTIMATE GUIDE

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RAE MORRIS

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WORDS CORINNA HARROD Love make-up but need inspiration? Or have the ideas but need to know how to get the best results? Then Makeup: The Ultimate Guide by Rae Morris could well be the book for you.

Covering the basics of skin prep, kit building, brows, contouring, highlighting and colour charts there are some really gorgeous step-by-step looks to follow from the wearable to the more dramatic. If you are having trouble creating a rock chick smudgy eye or need tips for working on more mature skin Rae has it covered and this book is great whether you’re just interested in make-up yourself or work in the industry.

Rae Morris is a multi-award-winning make-up artist featured in Vogue and Marie Claire, teaching for MAC and L’Oreal and with her own range of brushes and soon-to-be make-up range If you want to see Rae in action you can check out her YouTube channel www.youtube.com/user/raemorrismakeup

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J E T S E T T E R S J O HN HONG

W W W. J O HN HO N GSTUDI O .CO M F ASHI O N STYL I ST

R O B I AT BA L OGUN

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INSTAGRAM.COM /GELLISAFEVRIER M O DE L S

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P HO TO GRAP HE R

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PHOTO

JOHN HONG COLE WEARS BLOUSE BY MICHAEL KORS, SKIRT BY TIBI, SUNGLASSES BY CHANEL, EARRINGS AND BRACELET BY CHARTER HOLLIS WEARS SHIRT BY CALVIN KLEIN, SWEATER MARC BY MARC JACOBS, PANTS

BY ZARA, SUNGLASSES BY RAY BAN, TOTE BY LANCOME

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PHOTO

JOHN HONG COLE WEARS DRESS BY TRINA TURK, BAG BY DVF, SHOES BY SAM EDELMAN HOLLIS WEARS SHIRT BY EXPRESS, SWEATER BY THEORY, TRENCH COAT BY BANANA REPUBLIC, PANTS BY H&M, SHOES MODELS OWN, BAG BY BLOOMINGDALES

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JOHN HONG COLE WEARS BLOUSE BY MICHAEL KORS, SKIRT BY TIBI, SUNGLASSES BY CHANEL, EARRINGS AND BRACELET BY CHARTER HOLLIS WEARS SHIRT BY CALVIN KLEIN, SWEATER MARC BY MARC JACOBS, PANTS BY ZARA, SUNGLASSES

BY RAY BAN, TOTE BY LANCOME

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JOHN HONG COLE WEARS DRESS BY MICHAEL KORS, EARRINGS BY KATE SPADE HOLLIS WEARS JACKET BY TED BAKER, SHIRT BY ZARA, SWEATER BY TOPSHOP, PANTS BY VINCE

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JOHN HONG COLE WEARS JUMPSUIT RACHEL BY RACHEL ROY, SUNGLASSES BY CHANEL, SHOES BY ALDO HOLLIS WEARS SHIRT BY HUGO BOSS, JACKET BY CALVIN KLEIN, JEANS BY DIESEL, SHOES BY JOHN VARVATOS

Photography by Keith Clouston

HOW TO GET THE PERFECT SUMMER TAN IN THE SPRING

BY AMY HOWES

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INSTAGR A M // INSTAGR A M.COM/A MYJHOWES

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AS THE WARMER WEATHER TEMPTS US TO BARE A LITTLE MORE SKIN, FAKE TAN IS BACK ON THE AGENDA. A STREAKFREE FLAWLESS FAUX TAN CAN BE ACCOMPLISHED WITH JUST A LITTLE PREPARATION AND THE RESULTS CAN BE SO GOOD ONLY YOU WILL KNOW IT’S NOT THE REAL THING! HERE ARE FIVE EASY STEPS TO ACHIEVE THAT PERFECT TAN.

STEP 1 STEP 1 Preparation is key when it comes to the perfect faux tan. Dry patches just will not cut it this spring/summer. Exfoliating before tanning will remove dead skin cells and reveal smooth, velvet-soft skin. We used Sanctuary Spa Covent Garden Hot Sugar Scrub, which is a thermal fine organic sugar deep cleansing scrub to prepare our skin before tanning.

STEP 2 Moisturising before applying tan is essential and taking extra care to apply moisturiser to areas prone to dry skin such as, elbows, wrists, hands, feet and ankles will pay off in the end result. If you forget this step these areas can leave an uneven result. Kiehl’s Creme De Corps is a hydrating body moisturiser, which leaves your skin super soft. Be sure to allow time for the moisturiser to dry fully before applying the tan.

STEP 3 He-Shi Tanning Mitt makes the next step easy for everyone, including beginners.

STEP 3

STEP 4

STEP 5

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STEP 2

Use the Tanning Mitt to apply the tan in circular motions to help give even coverage whilst protecting your hands. Once you have finished applying the tan use the mitt to gently buff over the skin to help prevent streaks.

STEP 4 Applying the tan. We have used He-Shi Gold Foaming Mousse as it tans on contact, which makes for easier application. 1-2 pumps for each limb will give a medium bronzed colour. After two minutes the mousse is fully absorbed into the skin

and after 6-8 hours the mousse is fully developed. Showering off the excess tan reveals the colour that will last 7-10 days.

STEP 5 To add that extra bit of highlight to the areas of your body you want to exaggerate or contour, apply Scott Barnes Body Bling Platinum Moisturizing Shimmering Body Lotion. It gives the perfect glow whilst hydrating the skin.

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PIGMENT

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K EI TH C L O U S TO N

W W W. KE I TH CLO U S TO N .CO M M A KE - U P

C A S SI E STEW A R D

USING M A C COSM ET ICS W W W. LH A R E P R E S E N TS . CO M H A I R S TY LI S T

MAG DA L E N A TUC H O L S KA W W W. M A G D A LE N A TU CH O LS K A . CO M MODEL

E LL I E B U R TON

@PROF I L E

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P O S T P R O D U CTI O N W W W. S O LS TI CE R E TO U CH . CO M

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KEITH CL OUS TON P HO TO

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K EI TH C L O U S TO N P H O TO

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Lisbon

PLACES GOA, INDIA My husband and I first went to Goa four years ago and fell in love with the place. From the beauty of the beaches to the people, the smells and colours… it’s a magical place we now visit every year. We love it so much we got married there in January!

Goa

MY Three FAVOURITE… LIZ MARTINS

SHANGHAI, CHINA If you love hustle and bustle and all kinds of mad things going on, then this is your place! Amazing energy, bonkers architecture, the pollution is terrible but there’s lots of fun to be had here. Great bars, shopping and knock-off central! Fantastic food although some things will turn your stomach. Definitely a place to visit!

PORTUGAL Now being of Portuguese descent this one was always gonna be on the list.

Portugal, and in particular Lisbon, is my family home and it’s one of the best cities in Europe. A city of old and new that has some of the finest food ever – try a custard tart (Pastel Nata) straight outta the oven! I always try to spend a few weeks there each summer with my folks, and getting spoilt rotten by my mum!

BOOKS THE CRUCIBLE – ARTHUR MILLER I never really appreciated this when I had to read it at school but revisited it in my later years. The story of the

Salem witch trials – a powerful story with more than a few hidden meanings in there!

Matthew Goode. At times it can be a little uncomfortable but again for me, the duet piano scene is not to be missed.

ARE YOU THERE GOD? IT’S ME, MARGARET – JUDY BLUME

MUSIC

One of my early teens that’s just stuck with me. From lying about your period to friends and your first kiss, it’s a real coming-of-age book – very funny and forever brings out the kid in me!

LOLITA – VLADIMIR NABOKOV

FI LM S THE HUNGER David Bowie and Catherine Deneuve genius – if you haven’t seen it please do!

From a stylistic and make-up point of view it’s exquisite. The styling is rich and sumptuous and I’ve referenced this film numerous times.

BUGSY MALONE “We could’ve been anything that we wanted to be!” I never, ever get bored of watching this! From the mesmerising Jodie Foster as Tallulah to Scott Baio’s Bugsy – high kicks and custard pies you can’t beat it. And a winning soundtrack!

STOKER I’ve watched this over and over again and it’s the way its been styled and shot that keeps me coming back for more. I can’t take my eyes off Mia Wasikowska and

Now, anyone who knows me, knows that nothing comes between me and George!

A fan since the age of 12 I’ve seen him on every single British tour he’s ever done!

CHAKA KHAN – AIN’T NOBODY Chaka gets me every time with this sexy, pulsing melody and it’s number one on my Desert Island Playlist!

ETTA JAMES – AT LAST I’ve always loved her smokey vocals but this song became even more poignant this year as I walked down the aisle to this song at our beautiful Goan wedding.

MAKE-UP SISLEY BLACK ROSE PRECIOUS FACE OIL I’ve always been skeptical of oils on my face but this has transformed it. My skin is supple, no breakouts and it’s literally de-stressed my skin.

LANCOME HYPNOSE MASCARA The king of luxury mascara’s really. Coats my lashes individually without clumping or flaking. I can’t live without it!

RMS UN-COVER CONCEALER I’ve been using this since Angel Behati Prinsloo introduced me to it 4 years ago.

An amazing concealer that just looks like skin, you’d never know that I’m wearing make-up – and that’s how I like it!

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Controversial book about a middle aged man who becomes sexually obsessed and involved with a 12 year-old girl. A dark subject but beautifully written. I also loved the film adapatation starring one of my favourite British actors, Jeremy Irons.

GEORGE MICHAEL/WHAM!

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allo’ TWO readers! This issue I’m talking about the most northernly place in the world I’ve ever worked in – the Arctic Circle. At the top of Northern Norway, just a short flight from the capital of Oslo is a tiny town called Kirkenes. With record breaking temperatures in my home city of New York this winter, I felt inspired to take an ice cold dip back into memory lane and tell you all about my favourite frosty location. My trip to the Arctic has definitely equipped me better to work in the most brutal of chilly climates.

At this tippy-top point of Norway (only three miles from the Russian border) lies the Kirkenes Snow Hotel, an igloo shaped hotel looking as though Elsa from Frozen had constructed it herself. The hotel is carved entirely out of ice and snow – even the beds! Hotel guests are given reindeer skins and sleeping bags to sleep in (and no doubt it’s advised to swig a hefty glass of vodka before bedtime). I wasn’t brave enough to dare the icy slumber but I did spend a couple of days filming

P H O TO S ▼ CO URTE SY

▼

KI R KE NE S SNO W H O T E L

▼

Whilst working in the Arctic with MTV, we filmed on a husky dog sled as it glided across the glacier. These animals are powerful machines and incredibly beautiful. My favourite moment was when I got the chance to snuggle with a couple of husky puppies. This is also a must do activity (www.hurtigruten.com/uk/Experiences/Excursions/ northbound/5b-dog-sledding) The dog sleds were cleverly named after sports cars such as ‘Porsche’ and ‘Rolls Royce’.

The cuisine is local and hearty Scandinavian fare. Expect to dine on fish (so lots of salmon) and reindeer steak cooked out on an open fireplace.

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in and around the hotel. The hotel is otherworldly with ice sculptures thoughout. The moment you step foot into Kirkenes your lungs feel fuller with crisp clean air. It’s also an excellent place to visit if you’re interested in viewing the Aurora Borealis – the famous ‘Northern Lights’ (best viewed in the Winter). www.kirkenessnowhotel.com

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You can journey out onto the glacier via snowmobile then dig a hole and fish for your own giant king crab... dinner really doesn’t get any fresher than that!

Now, my advice for any make-up artist working in cold temperatures, whether working in the Arctic or just late at night on location somewhere frigid, is to come prepared… bring an abundance of ‘hand warmers’ – yep, those sachets that heat up when in contact with the atmosphere and last up to 8 hours (they never last as long as they promise so make sure you

pack a few). I brought some with me recently for an outdoor music video shoot during one of the snowiest nights ever and needless to say that I was in everyone’s good books that evening.

Nothing beats toasty digits so make sure you wear layers, especially extra socks or tights. I actually wore my ‘onesie’ almost every day that I was filming in Norway as it allowed me to layer multiple leggings and thermals easily. I love the cosy and warm ones on www.onepiece. com. All the models and dancers when I worked on the UK Clothes Show used

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to wear them in-between shows. Now gloves, always an issue for make-up artists right? Kind of hard to ‘blend’ when wearing them so I always wear a thinner pair of fingerless gloves underneath my gloves or mittens, this way I can pop my fingers out for touch ups but not totally freeze.

I also suggest carrying a clear make-up kit bag or at least a clear touch up set bag with a lot of pockets when working outside. This way you can see all of your products easily and aren’t wasting time in the cold trying to find what you need.

My Charles Fox clear pocketed set bag was my saving grace in the Arctic. Being waterproof it helped when it snowed and kept all of my brushes and products nice and dry. www.charlesfox.co.uk And it’s always worth remembering the old Scandinavian saying, ‘There’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing.’

INSTAGR A M // R ACH EL M A K EU P73 T WIT TER // @ R ACH EL M A K EU P73

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B E N C. K.

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M A K E - U P, H A I R & STYL I N G

M A Y I L L A H EZEKIEL

W W W. M A Y I LLA H M A KE UP ARTI ST.CO M P O S T- P R O CE SSI N G

J A S M I N A KA R IC MODEL

C A TH I

@M O NT A GE

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PREVIOUS PAGE FO U N D A T I O N CLARINS BEAUTY FLASH BALM LAURA MERCIER FOUNDATION PRIMER – RADIANCE NARS ILLUMINATOR – COPACABANA BOBBI BROWN CREAMY CONCEALER & CORRECTOR BOBBI BROWN LONG -WEAR EVEN FINISH FOUNDATION SPF15 BOBBI BROWN SHEER FINISH PRESSED POWDER – PALE YELLOW 1

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C HE E KS BOBBI BROWN BRONZING POWDER – MEDIUM BOBBI BROWN SHIMMER BRICK – PINK QUARTZ BOBBI BROWN BLUSH – NECTAR

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EY ES SHADOW NARS DUAL- INTENSITY EYE SHADOW – DIONE BOBBI BROWN EYE SHADOW – BONE, TAUPE AND CEMENT INGLOT SYSTEM EYE SHADOW – 426, 428 AND 85 PIGMENT LINER BOBBI BROWN LONG -WEAR GEL EYELINER – BLACK MAUVE SHIMMER MA S C A R A ESTEE LAUDER MASCARA MAGNASCOPIC – BLACK 01 ARDELL LASHES – 120 DEMI B ROW MAC EYE BROWS – LINGERING MAC BROW SET – CLEAR LIPS BOBBI BROWN CREAMY LIP COLOR – HONEYSUCKLE

P HO T O

B E N C.K.

FOUNDAT ION CLARINS BEAUTY FLASH BALM LAURA MERCIER FOUNDATION PRIMER – RADIANCE NARS ILLUMINATOR – COPACABANA BOBBI BROWN CREAMY CONCEALER & CORRECTOR BOBBI BROWN LONG-WEAR EVEN FINISH FOUNDATION SPF15 BOBBI BROWN SHEER FINISH PRESSED POWDER – PALE YELLOW 1 CH EEK S BOBBI BROWN BRONZING POWDER – MEDIUM BOBBI BROWN SHIMMER BRICK – PINK QUARTZ BOBBI BROWN BLUSH – APRICOT

M ASCARA ESTEE LAUDER MASCARA MAGNASCOPIC – BLACK 01 ARDELL LASHES – 120 DEMI BROW MAC EYE BROWS – LINGERING MAC BROW SET – CLEAR L IP S BOBBI BROWN CREAMY MATTE LIP COLOR – PINK NUDE

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EY ES SHADOW BOBBI BROWN CREAM SHADOW STICK – FOREST BOBBI BROWN EYE SHADOW – BONE AND TAUPE NARS DUAL INTENSITY EYE SHADOW – DIONE INGLOT FREEDOM SYSTEM EYE SHADOW 418, 17, 414 AND 27

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FOUNDAT ION CLARINS BEAUTY FLASH BALM LAURA MERCIER FOUNDATION PRIMER – RADIANCE NARS ILLUMINATOR – COPACABANA BOBBI BROWN CREAMY CONCEALER & CORRECTOR BOBBI BROWN LONG -WEAR EVEN FINISH FOUNDATION SPF15 BOBBI BROWN SHEER FINISH PRESSED POWDER – PALE YELLOW 1 CH EEK S BOBBI BROWN BRONZING POWDER – MEDIUM BOBBI BROWN SHIMMER BRICK – PINK QUARTZ

BROW MAC EYE BROWS – LINGERING MAC BROW SET – CLEAR L IP S BOBBI BROWN CREAMY LIP COLOR – HONEYSUCKLE

P HO TO

BEN C.K.

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EY ES SHADOW BOBBI BROWN EYE SHADOW – BONE, TAUPE AND BURNT SUGAR SEPHORA JUMBO LINER – TURQUOISE MASCARA ESTEE LAUDER MASCARA MAGNASCOPIC – BLACK 01 ARDELL LASHES – 120 DEMI

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P H O TO

B EN C.K.

CHEEKS BOBBI BROWN BRONZING POWDER – MEDIUM BOBBI BROWN SHIMMER BRICK – PINK QUARTZ BOBBI BROWN BLUSH – APRICOT EYES SHADOW BOBBI BROWN EYE SHADOW – BONE, BURNT SUGAR AND TAUPE NARS DUAL INTENSITY EYE SHADOW – DIONE BOBBI BROWN LONG-WEAR GEL EYELINER – BLACK INK INGLOT FREEDOM SYSTEM EYE SHADOW – 25 AND 37 MASCARA ESTEE LAUDER MASCARA MAGNASCOPIC – BLACK 01 ARDELL LASHES – 120 DEMI BROW MAC EYE BROWS – LINGERING MAC BROW SET – CLEAR LIPS BOBBI BROWN CREAMY MATTE LIP COLOR – RED CARPET

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F O U N DA TION CLARINS BEAUTY FLASH BALM LAURA MERCIER FOUNDATION PRIMER – RADIANCE NARS ILLUMINATOR – COPACABANA BOBBI BROWN CREAMY CONCEALER & CORRECTOR BOBBI BROWN LONG -WEAR EVEN FINISH FOUNDATION SPF15 BOBBI BROWN SHEER FINISH PRESSED POWDER – PALE YELLOW 1

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MAKE-UP AS PREVIOUS PAGE

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THE NON

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SURGICAL CLINIC

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Pigmentation can be a curse for many.

DR RENÉE HOENDERKAMP looks at the types, causes and the controversy of hydroquinone treatment.

With spring on the doorstep it’s tempting to lighten winter make-up and get skin looking spring fresh. Pigmentation can stop many of us from being as bare as we would like.

Hyperpigmentation includes age spots, freckles, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, solar lentigines and melasma.

All of these can cause anxiety and I am often being asked for solutions.

Hyperpigmentation occurs whenever there is excess melanin production in

the skin. There are numerous triggers that include scarring, hormones, genetics, ageing, medication and sun damage. So, sun is not only causing the majority of wrinkles but also pigmentation! It causes patchy pigmentation and can worsen freckles and melasma. Therefore we see more damage on the hands and face.

PIGMENTATION TYPES: Melasma/chloasma Found on sun-exposed faces during/after pregnancy or contraceptive pill use.

Age/liver/sun spots Caused by sun damage (solar lentigines).

Found on hands, face and sun exposed areas. From brown to grey/black. More common in fair skin Freckles Small brown spots appearing anywhere.

Most common in fair skinned people, increase with sun exposure.

Post-inflammatory pigmentation Caused when the skin has been damaged and commonly found in acne but also after sunburn or surgery.

In terms of treatment, the star in the armoury is hydroquinone, but it is not without controversy.

THE HYDROQUINONE ARGUMENT Patients often think that hydroquinone is banned. This isn’t true; it’s banned for sale without a prescription. However it

is still considered the gold standard treatment for pigmentation by most dermatologists. Much of the bad press around hydroquinone came from animal studies on rats taking hydroquinone orally (by mouth), which suggested that hydroquinone caused some cancers.

However, when these were examined, the evidence was weak and similar results have not been seen in humans, even when taking hydroquinone orally, not just topically (on the skin).

The other worry about hydroquinone is a condition called ochronosis: an unsightly, irreversible, bluish-black discoloration and thickening of the skin. This has mainly been seen in people with black skin using much higher doses than a dermatologist would use and for extended periods of time. Using hydroquinone on small areas such as the face for a maximum of 12 weeks at a time under supervision is fine and works!

In reality, hydroquinone appears a safe, effective means of treating pigmentation and is used daily by dermatologists in the UK and the rest of the world. It needs to be used for limited time periods, under supervision and often in combination with a retinoid and/or steroid. If you feel you have hyperpigmentation always consult a doctor and use the treatment as prescribed.

And finally, always remember to use SPF 30-50 sunscreen!

FACEBOOK // N O NSU RG I C A LCL I N I C T WIT TER // @ D RH O EN D ERK A M P WEB // NONSURGICALCLINIC.CO.UK

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PATIENTS OFTEN THINK HYDROQUINONE IS BANNED. THIS ISN’T TRUE; IT’S BANNED FOR SALE WITHOUT A PRESCRIPTION... IT IS STILL CONSIDERED THE GOLD STANDARD TREATMENT FOR PIGMENTATION.

Because patients will often look in chat rooms about treatments, when I discuss hydroquinone with them I ask them to look at www.hydroquinone.com. It is a recognised source of information that is referenced scientifically and compares all of the evidence out there. This enables patients to consider the evidence away from the hysteria of chat rooms and with proper information and make their own informed decision.

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M A R I E A BS OL OM

W W W. M A RI E AB SO L O M .CO M M AK E - UP

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USING M A C COS ME T I CS W W W. EL L I E M AK E UP.CO M HAI R STYL I ST

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W W W. S TO R M M A N AGE M E N T.CO M STYL I ST

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P HO TO GRAP HE R

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M A RIE A BS OL OM

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BABYLISS ELECTRONIC BEARD TRIMMER

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I’m never clean shaven anymore as I spent 15 years being suited and booted, having to shave every day was such a chore! So now I use a beard clipper. In fact I go from beard to stubble – stubble to beard every two weeks! It’s so much easier and I like the different looks I get from different beard lengths. The Babyliss shavers are awesome as you digitally set the length you desire and off you go!

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JOHN VARVATOS ARTISAN AFTERSHAVE

IAN HASTE

YOUTUBE CLEAN EATING CHEF & PRESENTER YOUTUBE // YOUTUBE.COM/USER/HASTESKITCHEN WEB // WWW.HASTESKITCHEN.CO.UK INSTAGR A M // INSTAGR A M.COM/HASTESKITCHEN T WIT TER // T WIT TER.COM/HASTESKITCHEN

I found this aftershave whilst on a trip to New York last year. I hadn’t heard of John Varvatos before and this cologne is nothing like anything I have smelt before. It keeps me smelling unique, I’m often asked what I’m wearing and everyone seems partial to a neck sniff!

MOISTURISER / LOTION – DIOR HOMME DERMO SYSTEM REPAIRING AFTERSHAVE LOTION Even though I don’t shave very often anymore, I still find close clipping my stubble after it’s grown quite long, a little sore. This lotion is super moisturising and doesn’t clog the pores or feel thick like a ton of creams do, I have oily skin, so the lighter the cream the better.

HAIR – REDKEN NY SMOOTH LOCK I’m growing my hair at the moment, so I’m only using Redken NY smooth lock, the bottle lasts for about 6-8 months as you only need a small amount (the size of a pea) It also drys matt which is a must for me!

EYES

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With having two kids under three, my eyes always seem to be puffy in the morning, I use the cooling eye gels from Eye Slice. They’re incredible with only a 5 minute application time needed. If you keep them in the fridge you can use them over and over again.

Perfect for 5 minutes in the morning before work. I also use the Mazorin executive care, Liquid Asset eye serum.

It’s an eye roller with a real cooling feeling. Ideal after a long day or a hard night out.

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