TWO #07

JULIA CARTA NEIL MOODIE L IZ MA RTI NS

April 2013 Issue #07 PHOTO

TONY VELOZ

Sam Chapman and Nicola A R T D I R E C T O R S Daniel Crawford an A D V E R T I S I N G E N Q U I R I E S Dom Sma EDITORS

C O N T R I B U T O R S NEIL MOODIE

International hairstylist, director of Windle & Moodie Salon/WAM hair tools. Likes Sushi and dogs.

LIZ MARTINS

A make-up maverick with a passion for fashion, music, innovation and creation!

RUTH CRILLY

Fashion model, beauty enthusiast, writer of fiction and non. (Grade 8 Clarinet!)

STACEY OAKES

Make-up artist, Pixiwoo course co-ordinator, blogger and PR for Pixiwoo.

LISA KIRWAN

Professional make-up artist, writer, lover of art, words, music and all things British!

ASHER COLEMAN

Make-up artist, nail tech, fashion graduate and full-time dork!

CORINNA HARROD

Professional make-up artist and beauty blogger. Worked in non-fiction at HarperCollins.

F R E Y– J A B A R K E R

London based make-up artist and skincare specialist. Lover of all things that sparkle!

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nother crazy month that ha I’ve given birth to beautifu next issue we’ll be able t

This issue sees the exciting additio Neil Moodie. We’ve long enjoyed h him aboard. We’ve also got the g many of you will know from www Sam in LA right now working on times for us.

Thank you so much to everyone w we’re overwhelmed – literally – a freezing and snowing in the UK (a from what we hear) so snuggle d – Nic x

a Haste nd Steve Shipley ales

DESIGNED BY

as just flown by! Since our last issue ul Edie Bow Haste. Hopefully in the to introduce her to you.

on of the fabulously talented hairstylist, his blog and are very happy to welcome gorgeous Ruth Crilly on the team who w.amodelrecommends.com. Ruth is with a couple of shoots for TWO – exciting

who has emailed and sent submissions, and will be getting back to you all. It’s and much of the Northern hemisphere down and enjoy this issue.

06 MOST WANTED

08

Our round up of loveliness

08 PRETTY IN PASTELS Davide Cossu and Maria Vittoria Bortolussi

14 BEST OF Spring make-up

18 5 MINUTES…

80

Athena Skouvakis, Make-up ambassador for Collection

28 FAVOURITE 3 With Kimberley Wyatt

30 SKINCARE Our skin expert Frey-ja Barker fools around with multitasking

36 ICONS Hollywood’s ultimate femme fatale Marlene Dietrich 04

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42 MOODIE THOUGHTS Neil Moodie’s first column for TWO

48 A FLUSH OF COLOUR Keith Clouston and Cassie Steward

54 TALES FROM THE CHAIR Liz Martins’ monthly column

60 A MODEL RECOMMENDS Ruth Crilly‘s tips on taking a better shot

72 90

72 WHAT THE PRO’S CARRY Celebrity hair & make-up artist Julia Carta

80 NOVEL HARLEQUIN Tony Veloz and Kim Reyes

90 INSPIRATION Iconic London fashion store BIBA W W W .T WO -- M AGA ZI N E. CO M

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// P R O D U C T //

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1// EYEKO M ASCAR A WARDROBE Three wands, one mascara. Wands included are defining, curling and volumising allowing you to interchange wands with the mascara depending on your mood.

MORE INFO

02

2// CHANEL LES BEIGES HEALTH GLOW SHEER POWDER Lightweight, fresh pressed powder with SPF 15. Gives skin a radiant glow with five shade options whilst still looking natural.

MORE INFO

3// WA M REVOLVING CURLING IRON Available in 3 sizes, these curling irons are every woman’s secret weapon for effortless waves and curls!

MORE INFO

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4// SUKI EXFOLIATING FOA M ING CLEANSER Deep cleansing, vegan product with natural sugar and lemongrass exfoliation. Resurfaces unclogs pores and removes dead skin cells leaving your face baby soft.

MORE INFO

05

5// YSL ROUGE PUR COUTURE VERNIS A LEVRES This lip product does everything! A staining lip gloss with the colour pay off of a lipstick.

It colours the lips whilst still feeling comfortably smooth.

MORE INFO

06

6// ILL A M ASQ UA SPECKLED NAIL VARNISH This season’s beautiful pastel colours with a black speckle running through them.

Two coats give a natural shine to the nails and amazing longevity with no chipping.

MORE INFO

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// F A S H I O N //

PRETTY IN PASTELS PH O T OGR APHER

D A V I DE C O S S U

WWW. DA V IDECO SSU . CO M T WIT T ER : @DA V IDE_ CO SSU MAKE-U P & HAIR

M A R I A V ITTO R IA BO R TO LUSSI WWW. M AR IA V IT T O R IA BO R T O LU SSI. CO M ST Y LING

F R A N C ES C A P IN NA

WWW. F R A N CESCAPIN N A. CO M MO D EL

A LE NA @BOOKINGS LONDON WWW.BO O K IN GSM O DELS. CO . U K

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LASERCUT COLLAR B Y TO P S H O P SEQUINED SWIMMING C A P B Y JA NE B O W L E R

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// F A S H I O N //

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NE C KL A C E S B Y MARIA PIANA

© DAVI DE COSSU

© D AV I D E C O SSU

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NECKLACE A N D HEA DPIECE

BY T O PSHO P

PRODUCTS USED // ILLAMASQUA SKIN BASE FOUNDATION BECCA SHIMMERING SKIN PERFECTOR IN OPAL KEVYN AUCOIN SENSUAL SKIN ENHANCER LAURA MERCIER SECRET BRIGHTENING POWDER BEN NYE NEUTRAL SET POWDER NARS LAGUNA BRONZER MAC CLEAR BROW SET MAX FACTOR CLUMP DEFY MASCARA MAKE UP FOREVER FLASH PALETTE MAC LIP LINER IN SUBCULTURE MAC LIPSTICK IN SPEED DIAL EYLURE FALSE LASHES OCC LIP TARS

© D AV IDE C O S S U

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// B E S T O F ‌ //

BY

S T A C E Y OA K E S

A RM AN I B LU SH I NG FABR IC Cream blusher in a squeezy tube.

Gives a sheer wash of colour to the skin that dries to a matte finish.

New spring colours in Fuchsia and Orange give cheeks a fresh spring-time glow.

Y S L L A LA Q U E C O U TU R E The weather is getting warmer and your toes will be out soon so get some spring colour on the nails.

With a natural gloss finish these come in an array of pastel and vivid shades.

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S TAR G AZ ER PAPER L ASHES Add some drama to the eyes with these delicate paper lashes.

Designs include bows, butterflies and flowers. Each style feels weightless once on and curves gently against your own lashes.

LAU R A MERCI ER CAVI AR S TIC KS Twist up stick eye shadow with a creamy texture. Colours range from pastel pinks and mint through to smoky sapphire.

Frosted, shimmering colours bathe the eye in a radiant glow..

LA P R A IR IE L IQ U ID S O F T G LOW S Light as air skin enhancer that creates shimmering highlights to freshen skin ready for the spring.

Creates a soft focus that helps blur pigmentation and fine lines.

Wear on the high planes of the face or mix with your foundation.

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Model is wearing shade Cherub

DANIEL SANDLER

WATERCOLOUR FLUID BLUSHER “I love it, it looks like the texture of skin, it's so beautiful” Sam Chapman, Pixiwoo

WWW.DANIELSANDLER.COM PLAY VIDEO

TAX FREE SHOPPING TO USA & CANADA 20% DISCOUNT FOR MAKEUP ARTISTS

// A R T I S T P R O F I L E //

A SK 18

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MINUTES WITH

ATHENA KOUVAKIS One of the most in-demand creative talents in the industry and official make-up artist for Collection, Athena Skouvakis has created gorgeous looks for shows such as Dior and Versace as well as numerous ad campaigns for some of the biggest brands in the world

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// A R T I S T P R O F I L E //

When did you decide that you wanted to become a make-up artist… what made you think ‘That’s what I want to do’?

My best friend was doing a make-up course and my boyfriend at the time was a fashion photographer so they were my inspiration to start make-up as a career. It made total sense to just go for it. I had a good feeling about doing make-up from the beginning.

Are you self-taught or did you study?

I studied Film Make-up Technology in Sydney, Australia.

What’s your make-up style? Is there a particular period that has influenced you the most?

It has to be the 1940s, 50s and 60s.

I just love those periods for classic timeless make-up.

Who or what inspires you?

I get inspired by films, books, nature, travel and magazines. I love Japanese ancient art and Kabuki theatre.

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PHOTO

JAMES MEAKIN

Do you prefer working backstage at shows or on location shoots?

I really like working on both for different reasons.

Shows are fantastic because you get to work with other make-up artists and you learn new things all the time. Location shoots are amazing because you get to travel the world and you learn so much as a person from each trip. Your mind expands and it’s very good for inspiration.

Your favourite look from fashion week AW13?

I love the Vivienne Westwood make-up for her AW13 show. It was so crazy with loads of colour and the girls looked like cartoon characters. It was very creative and fun – it made me smile!

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// A R T I S T P R O F I L E //

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CATHERIN

“ MASCARA makes such A BIG

difference if YOU

look TIRED

it instantly MAKES you look AWAKE in A natural WAY

�

Which one product would you advise someone to never leave home without?

Mascara makes such a big difference. If you look tired it instantly makes you look awake in a natural way.

What are your top five favourite products?

MAC Face and Body Foundation, Illuminating Touch Concealer by Collection, Guerlain Four Seasons Bronzer,

Fast Stroke Eyeliner by Collection, YSL False Lash Effect Mascara.

Which other artist has helped you along the way in your career?

Pat McGrath. She is my favourite make-up artist and inspiration. I have worked with her on various shows over the years and she is a true artist.

Mentioning no names of course, tell us a funny industry-related story.

I once worked with identical twin models on a trip and even after spending a week with them I still kept calling them different names!

It was really embarrassing and everyone in the team was making fun of me!

PHOTO

NE HARBOUR

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// A R T I S T P R O F I L E //

PHOTO

BEN KAUFMAN 24

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PHOTO

IAKOVOS KALAITZAKIS W W W .T WO -- M AGA ZI N E. CO M

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// A R T I S T P R O F I L E //

Do you feel the industry has changed since you first started?

I feel that because of the economic situation right now things have changed a bit in the industry with budgets etc but I don’t feel that it has changed that much since I started out.

Which person (or thing) defines beauty for you?

Bridget Bardot is my all-time favourite beauty.

Do you still enjoy travelling around the world? How do you cope with the jet lag?

I love travelling around the world and meeting new people. I could not imagine life without travel – it gives me a feeling of freedom to escape from routine. Jet lag can be a nightmare sometimes but I try to sleep as much 26

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PHOTO

PETER PEDONOMO

as possible on the plane so I don’t feel horrible the next day. I also drink lots of Valerian tea to relax me and put me to sleep.

You’ve worked with Collection for the past few years – are there any exciting new products to tell us about?

There are loads of new amazing Collection products but my favourite products are, the Killer Curve Mascara for beautiful long and full lashes and the Cover and Go Foundation that is a foundation and concealer in one with a mirror in the cap – very handy for touch ups.

T HE M ALDIV ES M ER T A N D M AR C U S F R EYA BEHA ER IC H S E N K AT IE GR A N D ST Y L I N G EU GEN E SO LO M O N

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// F A V O U R I T E T H R E E //

MY FAVOURITE THREE‌ Kimberly Wyatt

BOOKS

11 Minutes Paul Coelho

The Fantastic Mr Fox Roald Dahl

The Four Agreements Don Miguel Ruiz PLACES

Gold Beach, Oregon, US Verona, Italy New Forest, UK

VERONA

FILMS

Marie Antoinette Elf Love Actually ALBUMS

Postal Service 2013 The Postal Service

The Suburbs Arcade Fire

No More Idols Chase and Status

MAKE-UP PRODUCTS

Beautiful Movements Cosmetics (Earthy Princess Collection) OPI nail colour, Ballet Slipper Benefit Hi Beam 28

With thanks to www.beautifulmovementscosmetics.com

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// S K I N C A R E //

SKINCA INTRODUC PRODUCTS UP TO T

T

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ARE GURU, FREY-JA BARKER, CES US TO SOME MULTITASKING S THAT MAY OR MAY NOT LIVE THE BOLD CLAIMS THEY MAKE

T

ime to admit it, everyone loves a good prank. My birthday is actually on April 1st so I have been the victim of many, many silly schemes and if I am honest, I have enjoyed getting my own back.

Britain is a nation of pranksters and the best ones live on for years.

Remember when the national news reported on trees that grew spaghetti? Now it’s the turn of the cosmetics world to prank us with smart multitasking product – is it skin care or is it cosmetic?

That’s for you to decide...

DR BRONNER’S LIQUID SOAP Well the question is, what do you not use this for? A quick look at the label and you will be amazed, multitasking trickery at its best.

Its uses include: Cleansing, shaving, hand and body wash, shampooing hair, brush cleaner, dish washing, clothes washing, floor, oven and a general all-purpose household cleaner… You can even use it to shampoo the dog! Yet perfect for us to use on our skin and hair!

The list goes on and on...

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// S K I N C A R E //

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SISLEY PHYTOCERNES ÉCLAT I love this eye cream and concealer in one. Containing extract of red vine, ginkgo biloba and arnica it stimulates micro-circulation, improves drainage of tissue, fights free radicals and protects cellular membranes. It also contains caffeine, soy peptide and extract of horsetail which helps reduce fatty build up that causes puffiness, stimulates synthesis of collagen and improves tone of cutaneous tissue.

In a nut shell it treats dark circles, signs of fatigue, puffiness and helps smooth out fine lines whilst also being one of the best under eye/ face concealers using ultra-pure pigments. Available in 3 shades.

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PERRICONE MD NO FOUNDATION FOUNDATION A unique oil-free multipurpose formula. Provides a non-chemical SPF 30, corrects skin undertones delivering translucent coverage whilst boosting skins moisture throughout the day. On top of that it has high potency active ingredients that have anti-aging benefits and firms the skin. But it gets even better, the pigments are blended with light defusing mica to instantly soften the look of lines, wrinkles and pores. Note though if you have very dry skin you may still want to use your moisturiser under this.

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4

BLEMISH TREATMENT CONCEALER This two-in-one oil free formula not only conceals blemishes but its ingredients start to treat them with Salicylic Acid which diminishes current blemishes whilst also preventing new ones forming.

Vitamin A and green tea help control oil production and protect skin from free radicals. It offers a good medium coverage and is available in 2 shades.

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REVITALASH EYELASH CONDITIONER I would be lost without this magic treatment. I’d go so far as to say get ready to pack away those false lashes you won’t need them when your own are as thick and long from Revitalash. Apply once a day to the roots of your lashes with a small brush like a clear liquid liner, and within 6 weeks you will see that rather than losing your lashes naturally they stay put whilst the new ones also comes through, giving you longer fuller lashes. And just when you think things can’t get any better it has a side effect making your lashes darker too. Amazing!

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// S K I N C A R E //

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PERFEKT BODY PERFECTION GEL This multitasking formulation glides on to instantly improve skin tone, reduce the appearance of redness, bruises, dry patches and chafed rough skin using ceramides and Shea butter. Hyaluronic filling spheres hydrate the skin and help firm and tone while improving elasticity and suppleness. The perfection gel provides natural buildable coverage leaving skin with a smooth airbrush glow.

A perfect alternative for those that have the fear of fake tan or natural sun tans.

7

RODIAL GLAM STICKS These are gorgeously nourishing tinted lip butters that are enriched with vitamin E and cocoa butter to hydrate and protect the lips.

Perfect for those with dry sore cracked lips that still want to wear colour with a sheen. Think of it as a cross between a lipstick, lip gloss and lip balm.

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// I C O N S //

M A R L ENE D IETR ICH’ S S UL TRY HER A TIMELESS HOLLYWOOD G ER M A NY WA S M A R KED BY H A S O UTL IV ED A L L THE M OV 36

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MA R L E NE DI E T R I CH S H A NGH A I E XPR E S S 1932 P H O TO DON E NGL I S H

Y V OICE AN D B E D R O O M E Y E S H A VE M A D E D ICON. A CAREER THAT BEGAN IN HER NATIVE CO UNT LE S S R E I N VE N TI O N S B U T HER S TYL E I E S SHE APPE AR E D I N .

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// I C O N S //

M

arie Magdalene Dietrich was born in Berlin on December 27 1901.

She had a passion for the arts and was an accomplished musician but when a wrist injury cut short her dream to become a concert violinist she turned her attention to acting, playing chorus girls and small roles and making her film debut in So sind die Männer. She worked on stage and screen throughout the ‘20s and it was on the set of Tragodie deer Liebe that she met her future husband Rudolf Seiber whom she married in 1923.

In 1930 she was ‘discovered’ by filmmaker Josef von Sternberg who cast

“

her as cabaret singer Lola-Lola in The

T HE RELAT IO NSH T HE MAKE-UP M T HE FILM ACT O R ACCO MPLICE S

Blue Angel. The movie made her a star but as audiences enjoyed the opening night Dietrich was already on-board A contract with Paramount and a string of successful movies made Marlene the highest paid actress in the world and an iconic face of the 30s.

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”

– MARL ENE

IP BET W E E N MA N A N D IS T H A T O F IN C RIM E

E D IETRI C H

MA R L E NE DI E T R I CH NO H I GH WAY , 19 51 P H O TO

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// I C O N S //

Her passionate performances made her Hollywood’s femme fatale with a reputation for off-screen romances with leading men adding to her mystique. She continually re-invented her image wearing tuxedoes, men’s hats and tailored suits.

She became a US citizen and received the Medal of Freedom in 1947 for her strong stance against Nazism. Following successes in Las Vegas and on Broadway, Dietrich withdrew from public life, choosing to spend her later years in her Paris apartment only communicating via telephone.

PRODUCTS USED REAL TECHNIQUES MAC 239 MAC 217 LOUISE YOUNG YVES SAINT LAURENT TEINT BRUSHES BRUSH BRUSH BRUSHES TOUCHE ECLAT FOUNDATION MORE INFO ILLAMASQUA MORE INFO MORE INFO MORE INFO VOW PENCIL MORE INFO MAC STUDIO FIX MORE INFO MAC LIP LINER POWDER FOUNDATION MORE INFO MORE INFO

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MAC EYESHADOW MYSTERY, CARBO WEDGE, VANILLA MORE INFO

W ON, A

BEAUTE MASOCHIST MORE INFO

MAC SELECT COVER MORE INFO

BOURJOIS VOLUME FAST AND PERFECT EYLURE NATURAL MORE INFO TEXTURE LASHES ILLAMASQUA FRECKLE MORE INFO URBAN DECAY NAIL PAINT FRAGILE TOASTED BRONZER MORE INFO MORE INFO MAC BLACKTRACK MORE INFO

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M

oo

ht

s...

// M O O D I E T H O U G H T S //

die Th

g u o

WHO’S THE NEW WHO? FA SH I ON G O ES IN C YC LES .

‘THE ‘80s ARE BACK’, ‘IT’S A BIT ‘60s’, ‘1920s INFLUENCED’, ‘SHE’S ‘4 0 s’, ‘A N OD TO THE ‘5 0s ’.

T H E SE A R E P HR AS ES I O FTEN HEAR BANDIED AROUND ON S H OO TS A N D S HO W S . I’V E NOTICED MORE THAN EVER THAT MODELS’ LOOKS SEEM TO GO IN CYCLES TOO.

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I was recently shooting with the lovely new British model sensation Sam Rollinson who walked an incredible 63 shows in Feb/March for her first catwalk season.

More than once we heard comments (all true) that she bore a resemblance to another great British model – Stella Tennant, who began her career in the 90s and continues to model today. Having heard the comparisons, Sam suddenly said, ‘I wonder if there will come a day when people will say she looks a little like Sam Rollinson!’ If her rise in the fashion world continues at the rate it’s going then probably yes.

I have been working in Fashion for twenty years this year and people

always ask, what makes a supermodel?

This word is tossed around way too freely, and I don’t even know if it’s relevant anymore but I’ve realised, there are a few key things in a models face that make them stand out: Bone structure, where their eyes are set, mouth shape. Personality, height and proportions that work better for photographs and clothes are also really important.

When nearly all of these elements are together in one person, you potentially have a successful model on your hands, but I’ve always said that with most models you wouldn’t necessarily see them on the street in civilian clothes, without make-up and think ‘There goes a supermodel’.

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// M O O D I E T H O U G H T S //

Many of these girls were odd looking at school – ‘gangly’, ‘too skinny’, ‘not fancy-able’ and ‘weird looking’, is often what they will tell you about their school life.

Top models are genetic freaks of nature – and I mean that in a good way. There aren’t many of them in the world, that’s why I’m always telling women not to compare themselves to these girls, as they simply don’t look like the average person on the street. Model scouts are always looking for the next big thing and do their jobs so well because they can spot the genetic freaks, so to say.

Modelling has changed over the years.

The ‘90s brought about a monumental change in the way models could look, thanks to the smaller than average, bow legged, wonky toothed Kate Moss who still happened to be beautiful.

Occasionally some girls just stand alone by virtue of their unusual but photogenic look. Other examples of the mouldbreakers are Stella Tennant, Karen Elson, Penelope Tree and Twiggy.

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And so it has happened again. We have a new breed of girls who are the ‘new’ Kate, Stella, Naomi, Linda, Christy et al.

See my list below of famous models and their modern comparisons.

Kate Moss – Cara Delevingne Naomi Campbell – Jourdan Dunn Stella Tennant – Edie Campbell Cindy Crawford/Stephanie Seymour – Kendra Spears Linda Evangelista/Natalia Vodianova – Arizona Muse (quoted by Anna Wintour) Claudia Schiffer/Bardot – Lara Stone Iman – Joan Smalls Christy Turlington – Karlie Kloss (like Elle MacPherson before her, Karlie was dubbed “The Body” after her recent revealing Italian Vogue Cover) Kirsten McMenemy – Saskia De Brauw Take note of these names, they will be on your lips for years to come. www.itsamoodieblog.com T HE ST YLE BIB L E VO GU E H A S FEATURED THE NEW GENERATION ON SEVERAL OF ITS COVERS W W W .T WO -- M AGA ZI N E. CO M

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// T H E M O M E N T //

the moment Tweet your ‘behind the scenes’ Instagram style pics to @TWOmagazine

BTS AndrewJamesMUA

BTS jenhunterMU

BTS FoqiyaFoxInayat

BTS megan_makeup

BTS MuaSheriveg

BTS rachelmakeup73

BTS rachelmakeup73

BTS rachelmakeu

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UA

BTS FoqiyaFoxInayat

Making of the Extreme Collection VictoriaDoncel

gas

Well earned! Norwich FW LendMeNothing

Norwich FW typeandnumbers

up73

BTS rachelmakeup73

With Elena and Anais at IMG Paris cassiemakeup W W W .T WO -- M AGA ZI N E. CO M

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// B E A U T Y //

PRODUCTS USED // FACE AND BODY FOUNDATION, PRO CONCEALER, MINERALIZE BLUSH IN WARM SOUL, PAINT POT IN ANTIQUE DIAMOND, EYESHADOW IN GUACAMOLE, EYESHADOW IN SWIMMING, EYESHADOW IN AQUADISIAC, EYESHADOW IN BEAUTIFUL IRIS, PIGMENT IN TEAL, GEL LINER IN BLACKTRACK, OPULASH OPTIMUM BLACK MASCARA, LIPSTICK IN SHY GIRL, CLEAR LIPGLASS

A 48

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A

FLUSH OF COLOUR © KEITH CLOUSTON

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// B E A U T Y //

PRODUCTS USED // FACE AND BODY FOUNDATION, PRO CONCEALER, BLUSH IN DOLLYMIX, EYESHADOW IN CHROME YELLOW, EYESHADOW IN BEAUTIFUL IRIS, PIGMENT IN MAGENTA MADNESS, GEL LINER IN BLACKTRACK, OPULASH OPTIMUM BLACK MASCARA, LIPSTICK IN LICKABLE, CLEAR LIPGLASS.

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// B E A U T Y //

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PH O TO G R A P H E R

KE I T H CL OUST ON

WW W.KE I TH C L O U S TO N .C O M T W I TTE R : @ KE I TH C L O U S TO N M A KE - U P A R TI S T

CASSI E ST EWARD

U S I N G M AC CO SM E TI CS

WW W.C A S S I E M A KE U P.C O M T W I TTE R : @ C A S S I E M A KE U P MODEL

LIDI JA @PROF I L E

WW W.P R O FI L E - M O D E L S .C O M

PRODUCTS USED // FACE AND BODY FOUNDATION, PRO CONCEALER, BLUSH IN PINK CULT, PAINT POT IN FROZEN VIOLET, EYESHADOW IN BEAUTIFUL IRIS, EYESHADOW IN IDOL EYES, GEL LINER IN BLACKTRACK, OPULASH OPTIMUM BLACK MASCARA, LIPSTICK IN SAINT GERMAIN, CLEAR LIPGLASS

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// L I Z M A R T I N S //

THE CH A I R

Liz Martins brings you INSIDER TIPS and

tales

IN

HER exclusive

COLUMN

EACH ISSUE

I

n the realms of fashion and music I am used to working with a very young faces so it was with great

delight that I was invited to take part in a TV documentary for Channel 4 based on the lives of six incredible women over 70 who refuse to conform to the usual twin-sets and sheepskin slippers – from modeling to wearing there art these women are icons for any generation.

Age can be cruel but these women I got to make-up and talk to over a week of filming were so inspiring. I got to rifle through their

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personal make-up bags and was surprised to find TopShop Lip Crayons, MAC lipsticks and vintage Barry M lippies – there was me thinking I would find some dear little powder compact and pink blush – all I can say is how wrong to judge a lady purely on their age.

I had so much fun making these ladies up – I had to take a different approach and use much creamier textures as I was dealing with wrinkles (I hate that word) and a much more delicate skin – so it was all about preparation. Personally I love to use Sisley’s All Day All Year moisturiser which is rich but not too heavy on the skin.

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// L I Z M A R T I N S //

I didn’t use a base, I stuck to tinted moisturiser as it evens out the skin without getting stuck in any crevices and it makes the skin glow – I absolutely adore the Bobbi Brown Oil Free SPF 15 Tinted Moisturiser as it doesn’t leave a shiny film on the skin and for a rosey tawny glow it has to be Bobbi Browns Pot Rouge for lips and cheeks – again this melts onto the skin becoming one with it, powder formulas just sit on on top of the skin and are more likely to gather in any creases.

When it comes to eye make-up a lot of people think you should tone it down as you get older but you still need definition so I used MAC Coffee liner which is much softer than black or grey to gently define the outer corners of the eyes.

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“I can honestly say working with these women was just an utter joy” – Liz Martins

I also played around with eyebrow stencils as one of the ladies had very sparse brows and said she wasn’t confident enough to pencil them in and get them both exactly the right shape – by using the stencils she was not only totally surprised at how easy it can be but when I gave the stencils to her to take home was utterly delighted! She also let me use a slate grey on her eyelids and she totally rocked the Vivienne Westwood punky vibe with her Beguiled Topshop Lip Crayon.

I can honestly say working with these women was just an utter joy and I hope that when I reach to their ripe old ages I am as full of life and spunk as they are – take note you’re never to old to be beautiful.

Next stop Shanghai – I will be filling you in on my escapade shooting fashion in China!

Till next time, Liz x

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// T R E N D S //

T

S / S13

Sepia TRENDS WORD S

L IS A K I R WA N

he latest make-up trend takes us back to basics to create a look that brings a soft mystery to the face, reminiscent of the beautiful photos from the 1930s.

The look is one of understated glamour, with Terry Barber calling it, ‘a sophisticated return to the smokey eye… a darker eye that is not cheap or tacky’ and it has been seen on the catwalks of Max Mara, Alberta Ferretti and Victoria Beckham.

The tr using blo a soft sh rather th was seen The sk with sub bring ou created sculptin used in skin crea sepia ton been per

PRODUCTS USED // NO7 INSTANT RADIANCE MORE INFO MAC OMEGA EYESHADOW MORE INFO

REAL TECHNIQUES BRUSHES MORE INFO

MAC 217 BRUSH MORE INFO BEN NYE TAUPE MORE INFO

MAC 266 BRUSH MORE INFO

CHANEL WATERP EYELINE MORE IN

MAC PRO LONGWEAR SHADOW UNINTERRUP MORE INFO

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rend sees make-up artists own-out browns to create hade that hugs the face, han the hard sculpting that n last season. kin is kept soft and clean, btle highlight helping to ut the beautiful shadows in this trend. MAC Pro ng creams, or concealers a deeper shade to your ate super natural looking nes, almost as if they had rsonalised for you.

STYLO YEUX ROOF LONG-LASTING ER 100 SANTAL NFO

EYE PTED

SHU UEMURA LASH CURLERS MORE INFO

HOURGLASS ILLUME BRONZE LIGHT MORE INFO

MAC PLUSH LASH MASCARA MORE INFO

BOBBI BROWN COLOUR CORRECTOR MORE INFO

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// A M O D E L R E C O M M E N D S //

THE

INNOCENT LOOK BY

RUTH C R I LLY

Y

ou’ll be well used to seeing images of models primped and preened to perfection – glossy pictures in magazines, airbrushed ads on the television – but I always think that the most interesting photographs are the ones that have been taken backstage or behind-thescenes. Real faces with real expressions – nothing contrived or premeditated.

There’s often something slightly vulnerable about the way that models look when they’re not posing, something off-guard and

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innocent. That’s perhaps why I love reportage-style photography so much – you’re catching a moment, un-posed and unconsidered. The face is relaxed, there’s less tension in the jawline, the whole face is softer and – dare I say it? – younger.

Of course, it’s the job of a model to be able to recreate this softness and vulnerability for the camera and so quite a considerable amount of ‘reportage’ fashion photography is entirely

“That’s perhaps why I love reportage-style photography so much – you’re catching a moment, un-posed and un-considered”

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// A M O D E L R E C O M M E N D S //

posed and premeditated. There’s a knack to making your face look this way, but if you wanted to have a go for yourself then here are a few pointers. They could be quite useful to practice and remember for the next time you’re having an important photograph taken of yourself – perhaps at a wedding, prom, graduation.

1// RELAX YOUR JAWLINE Your top and bottom rows of teeth at the back shouldn’t be touching together – if your jaw is clenched then you’re ‘shortening’ your face. Think about those caricatures and cartoons of very old people – their faces look as though they are folding in on themselves because they haven’t put

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their false teeth in! Now look at your own face in the mirror. Clench your teeth together and see how your face looks, and then, keeping your lips closed, let your jaw drop down to a relaxed position. See how this changes your face?

3// THE UNGUARDED, INNOCENT LOOK RELIES ON THE EYES LOOKING BIG AND WIDE The ‘bambi’ effect, I suppose we could call it! It’s the opposite of the sultry, narrowed-eye 2// OFTEN, WITH THE look that you see in lots of perfume INNOCENT LOOK, and fashion adverts. To avoid looking MODELS HAVE THEIR as though you’re a rabbit caught in LIPS SLIGHTLY PARTED the headlights, you may need to tilt – that bits pretty easy your chin down a little – A LITTLE! once the jaw is relaxed.

Your mouth will naturally – because otherwise, widening your want to drop open a little eyes might draw your eyebrows upwards, if you’ve relaxed your jaw, and then it starts becoming a comedy moment. If you practice in front of the but this is just a small mirror, you’ll see that tilting your chin ‘oh! Is someone taking up and looking down at yourself makes my photo?’ kind of mouth open, rather than anything your eyes narrower and more hooded, chin down a little and looking slightly overtly sexy-looking! up will make them appear wider. You don’t want to be too wide-eyed though, use common sense!

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// F A S H I O N //

LANES

BY NIGHT PHO T O GR A PHER

LEE KIR BY

WWW.LEEKIRBYPHOTOGRAPHY.COM T WIT T ER : @LEN DM EN O TH I N G ST YLIST

S AR AH W IN TON M AK E-U P AR T IST

S AMANTHA CHAPMAN HA IR ST YLIST

KATIE O TTO LANG UI M O DELS

HAN NAH MARSHAL L C H R IS FR AN CI S PR O DU CT IO N

LAU R EN GR EGORY ( LU LLABY IN C)

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T Trousers from Goldfinches; Vivienne Westwood shirt from Philip Browne; Braclet from Goldfinches W W W .T WO -- M AGA ZI N E. CO M

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Hannah – Vintage leather jacket and necklace from Goldfinches; Zip tube skirt by Barbara Speer at Walkers of Pottergate; shirt and shoes at Prim; Socks stylists own Chris – Vivienne Westwood suit; Trickers boots; Sunspel polo All available at Philip Browne

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Vivienne Westwood Lee Jeans from Catfish; Silk shirt from Prim; Braces from Goldfinches; Shoes from Prim W W W .T WO -- M AGA ZI N E. CO M

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Chris – Vivienne Westwood suit; Trickers boots; Sunspel polo. All available at Philip Browne Hannah – Vintage leather jacket and necklace from Goldfinches; Zip tube skirt by Barbara Speer at Walkers of Pottergate; shirt and shoes at Prim; Socks stylists own

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Universal Works shirt at Sevenwolves; Braces from Goldfinches; trousers and shoes (model’s own) both from Philip Browne

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Vivienne Westwood Lee Jeans from Catfish; Silk shirt from Prim; Braces from Goldfinches; Shoes from Prim 70

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Percival coat and NUNC shirt from Elements; Wolsey cords at Sevenwolves; Socks and Bass Weejun Larkin loafers all from Philip Browne

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// P R O A R T I S T S //

GREAT PYRAMIDS OF GIZA HER B R I TTS T HE L E G E N D A R Y M ARI L Y N M O NR O E BIBA

Basic Kit Essentials

JULIA CARTA

W

ith over 15 years of experience, celebrity hair and make-up artist, Julia Carta is renowned as one of the best in her field – the world of TV, film and entertainment. A personal make-up artist to Simon Cowell for over a decade, Julia has worked with many celebrities over the years; including Keira Knightley, Sienna Miller,

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M A KE - U P

JUL I A CART A

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// P R O A R T I S T S //

KEIRA K N I G H TLE Y MAKE -UP

JUL IA C A R TA

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Miranda Kerr, Naomi Watts, Vanessa Hudgens, Thandie Newton, Rachel Weisz, Ben Affleck, Sharon Stone, Denzel Washington, Colin Farrell, Orlando Bloom, Ralph Fiennes, Ben Affleck and Matthew McConaughey to name but a few.

Loved for her creativity, her discrete professional attitude and calming energy, Julia is a regular on Britain’s Got Talent, was Britney Spears personal hair and make-up artist on the ‘Femme Fatale World Tour’ and single ‘Criminal’.

Julia has worked on every series of X Factor with Simon Cowell and Louis Walsh, and was confirmed as the Chief Make-up Artist on the X Factor Live Shows in 2012 and on the X Factor Tour 2013.

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// P R O A R T I S T S //

A LL MAKE-UP

J U L IA C A R TA

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// P R O A R T I S T S //

WHAT THE PROS CARRY

Basic Kit Essentials

JULIA CARTA

06

02

01

07

05

03

0

04 11

12

18 19

21 20

23

01. Evian facial spray 02. Dermalogica Active Moisturiser 03. Beauty blenders (sponges) 04. Chanel Vitalumière foundation 05. Mineral water 06. Eve Taylor candle (Festivity) 07. My tea!

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08. Guerlain Terracotta Bronzer 09. Hydrating serum 10. My concealers – Sheer Cover Duo Concealer, Kryolan Derma color wheel, YSL Touche Éclat, Benefit Erase Paste 11. Make Up For Ever powder 12. Quad MAC eyeshadow pallete, Shavata Brow pallete 13. Tom Ford bronzer

09 10

08 16

14 13

15

17

22

14. Chanel foundation 15. EstĂŠe Lauder foundation 16. Organic lip balm 17. C olour eyeshadow pallete with a selection of airbase eyeshadows 18. Kryolan Ultra Foundation pallete 19. Kryolan Variety Eyeshadow pallete 20. Kryolan Variety Lip pallete

21. M y bespoke lipstick pallete with a variety of Guerlain, Urban Decay, Chanel, Dior, Rimmel Kate Moss, MAC and EstĂŠe lauder lipstick 22. U rban Decay Naked Eyeshadow pallete 23. Urban Decay Naked 2 Eyeshadow pallete

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// F A S H I O N //

NOVEL HARLEQUIN PHO TO G R A P H E R

TO N Y VELOZ

W WW. T O N YVE L O Z .C O M T W IT T ER : @T O NY _ V E L O Z S TY L I S T

KAR DIA WI L L I AMS

WWW.K A R DIA WILL I A M S .C O M

M AK E - U P A R TI S T

KIM REYES

W WW. K IM R EYESM A KE U P .C O M H A I R S TY L I S T

NATALIA LAPTCH ENKOVA

N A I L A R TI S T

TITILAYO BA NK OL E

W WW. T IT ILAYO BAN KO L E .C O M T W IT T ER : @T IT ILAY O B A NKO L E

MODEL

KATH LEEN M @ MO DEL OG I C WWW. M O DELO GICW ILHELM I N A .C O M

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// F A S H I O N //

P H O TOG R A PH ER

TON Y V E LOZ S T YLIS T

KA RD IA W I LLI A M S M AK E -UP ART IST

KIM RE Y E S H A IR S TYL IST

NATALIA L APTCH ENKOVA N AIL AR TIST

TITIL AYO B A N K OLE M O DE L

KATHLEEN

© KEITH CLOUSTON 82

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// F A S H I O N //

P H O TOG R A PH ER

TON Y V E LOZ S T YLIS T

KA RD IA W I LLI A M S M AK E -UP ART IST

KIM RE Y E S H A IR S TYL IST

NATALIA L APTCH ENKOVA N AIL AR TIST

TITIL AYO B A N K OLE M O DE L

KATHLEEN

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PHOTOGRAPH ER

TO N Y V E LOZ S TYL IS T

KARD I A WI LLI A MS MAKE -UP ART IST

KI M R E Y E S HAIR ST Y LIST

NATALI A LAPTCH ENKOVA NAIL ART IST

T I T IL AYO B A N K OLE MODE L

KAT HLE E N

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// F A S H I O N //

P H O TOG R A PH ER

TON Y V E LOZ S T YLIS T

KA RD IA W I LLI A M S M AK E -UP ART IST

KIM RE Y E S H A IR S TYL IST

NATALIA L APTCH ENKOVA N AIL AR TIST

TITIL AYO B A N K OLE M O DE L

KATHLEEN

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// I N S P I R A T I O N //

PHOTO

BRI AN D U F F Y

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& BEYOND BARBARA HULANICKI’S DECADENT DESIGNS BROUGHT AN EXPLOSION OF COLOUR TO A DREARY LONDON HIGH STREET AND CHANGED THE FACE OF FASHION FOREVER

IMAGES COURTESY BRIGHTON MUSEUM & GALLERY W W W .T WO -- M AGA ZI N E. CO M

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// I N S P I R A T I O N //

PHOTO

RON FALLOON

“Fashion T

EVERYTHI

and over AG

cleaned OUT

– BARB 92

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PHOTO

BRIAN DUFFY

BORING. ING’S BEEN done over GAIN. IT needs to BE T and START again.”

TODAY is so

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// I N S P I R A T I O N //

B

iba was not just a shop – it was a destination. A lavish art deco monument to fashion where style-starved working women could hangout with artists, movie stars and rock musicians.

After selling her first designs though a mail-order business, Barbara Hulanicki, a freelance fashion illustrator from Brighton, opened the Kensington store Biba in 1964.

Her indulgent designs were priced to be accessible to all and immediately captured the imagination of the emerging youth generation. Mini-skirts, floppy felt hats, feather boas and velvet trouser suits, in an array of rich, indulgent colours were sold by beautiful, young assistants.

B ARB ARA HUL A P H O TO NEI L L

The demise of swinging London saw Biba close it’s doors in 1976. It’s time on the high street may have been short-lived but it’s inspiration, looks and style live on in stores and wardrobes today.

The exhibition Biba & Beyond: Barbara Hulanicki at Brighton Museum and Gallery runs until April 14th 2013. w 94

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PHOTO

BARBARA HULANICKI

ANIC KI IB BERT PHOTO

BRIAN DUFFY

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// I N B O X //

O U R FAVO U RI T E SU BM I S SI O N TH I S I S SU E… P HOTOG RAPH ER

T IZIA N O M U LÁ S

WWW.TIZIANOMULAS.COM MAKE -UP & H AIR

MA RÍ A A R I A S

W W W . FACEBO O K.CO M/ MARIAARIA SMMK MODE L

ANA MARIA A. DE S IG N INSP IRED B Y CHE N MAN P HOTOG RAPH S

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LIZ MARTINS

Salon System have teamed up with top make-up artist Liz Martins; whose work includes shoots for Vogue, Elle, Tatler and celebrities Girls Aloud, Cheryl Cole and Shakira.

Known as the Lash Queen, Liz has designed lashes for the Girls Aloud Tours and was brought in to revamp the make-up looks on the X Factor in 2010.

Now she has brought her expertise to the launch of her very own lash collection – Liz Martins Lash Enhance, exclusively for Salon System.

DESIGN Explore your creativity, apply individually or layer lashes together in any number of variations for a totally unique and individual style.

SELECT Add volume and length to enhance and define. Natural and intense individual lashes.

THE COLLECTION...

ELEVATION Dramatic lash that draws attention to the centre of the eye.

ENHANCE Combines depth and length to enhance and open the eye.

DEFINE Adds volume and definition to lower lashes.

INSPIRE Classic inspired lash with a touch of light.

// F R O M T H E V A U L T //

…BEC AUSE SOME T HINGS A R E WOR T H WATCHING AG A IN

DURAN DURAN GIRLS ON FILM © EMI RECORDS LTD DIRECTORS: GODLEY & CREME RELEASED: 1981

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It seems amazing what you could get away with in the 80s! Duran Duran walked the walk with lead singer, Simon Le Bon, affirming the rock and roll lifestyle by marrying the painfully gorgeous Yasmin Parvaneh – one of the biggest models at the time. The risque nature of the video subsequently saw it banned by the BBC!

Social media for beauty ● Strategy ● Talent ● Community

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