TWO #06

March 2013 Issue #06

CAROLINE BARNES

M ICHAEL ASHTON HELENA CHRISTENSEN DAVID DOWNTON P H O TO

S H A MA Y I M

EDITORS

SUB EDITOR

DESIGN

ART DIRECTION

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES

APP PRODUCTION

Sam Chapman Corinna Harrod Nicola Haste Daniel Crawford Steve Shipley

Dom Smales

T 020 3040 2959

Anorak.co

hat a crazy, busy month! It only feels like a week ago that we were filming the previous editorial. We’ve been putting in the extra hours in preparation for Nic taking a well deserved break as she’s due to give birth in two days.

So, all being well, by the time you read this there will be another addition to the Pixiwoo family!

W

It’s one of the busiest times of the year for industry creatives with Fashion Week in the big four – NY, London, Milan and Paris all happening along with big red carpet events such as the Grammys and Oscars to keep everyone on their toes!

We hope you enjoy and are inspired by the latest issue.

– Sam and Nic xx

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TW O

CO NT RI B U T O R S LI Z

MARTINS

A make-up maverick with a passion for fashion, music, innovation and creation!

S T A CEY

OAKES

Make-up artist, Pixiwoo course co-ordinator, blogger and PR for Pixiwoo.

LI SA

KIRWAN

Professional make-up artist, writer, lover of art, words, music and all things British!

A SHER

COLEMAN

Make-up artist, nail tech, fashion graduate and full-time dork!

CORINNA HARROD

Professional make-up artist and beauty blogger. Worked in non-fiction at HarperCollins.

FREY-JA BARKER

London based make-up artist and skincare specialist. Lover of all things that sparkle!

If you would like to submit work for possible inclusion in TWO magazine please email us at submissions@two-magazine.com

08 MOST WANTED

12

Our round up of loveliness

10 BEST OF Did someone say Mother’s Day?

12 FASHION A gorgeous swimwear shoot by Shamayim and Ana Siqueira

22 WHAT THE PRO’S CARRY The lovely Caroline Barnes

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32 SKINCARE Our skin expert Frey-ja Barker shares her tips on achieving that spring fresh dewy complexion

36 FAVOURITE 3 With Alesha Dixon

38 ICONS The irrepressible Grace Jones

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46 TALES FROM THE CHAIR Liz Martins’ monthly column

50 IN FOCUS Fashion Week: Looks and quotes from Milan, New York and London

68 5 MINUTES WITH New Zealand born Michael Ashton, Adele’s personal Make-up artist

80 TRENDS

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Our dewy skin tutorial

82 BEAUTY Corina Marie Howell and Ash Mathews

88 BUSINESS HEADS Beauty, brains and compassion; Helena Christensen’s got it on lock!

96 INSPIRATION

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The exquisite work of David Downton

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// P R O D U C T //

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1// GIVENCHY LE ROUGE LIPSTICK Luxuriously packaged in a leather case with the logo embossed on the lipstick bullet, these lipsticks are available in 12 shades and have an intense colour payoff with a creamy velvet finish.

MORE INFO

2// THE HANDM ADE SOAP COM PANY This Irish company not only produce soaps but creams, lotions and candles all from beautiful nature-inspired ingredients such as lavender and grapefruit. The packaging is to die for and every product smells divine. They also cater for men with a shaving kit range.

MORE INFO

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3// EYE OF HORUS M ASCAR A Jet black and glossy this mascara is buildable for a dramatic finish. With an hourglass shaped brush that separates and curls lashes evenly and made from natural ingredients that won’t irritate sensitive eyes or contact lenses, this product is smudge resistant and non-caking so lashes will hold their curl all day.

MORE INFO

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4// AVON SUPERSHOCK GEL EYE LINER PENCIL Available in six shades that range from natural Flash through to vibrant Aqua Pop. The gel-like texture allows pencils to glide over skin and makes it easy to layer for more intensity. A bold, user-friendly range that is safe enough to use in the waterline.

MORE INFO

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5// No7 BLUSH TINT A twist-up cream blush containing micro-fine powders for a soft and natural finish. This cream is easy to apply straight to cheeks and blend with fingers. Out of the three shades available we particularly like Rosebud which gives a healthy, natural flush to the skin.

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Best Of‌ Stacey Oakes and Frey-Ja Barker give us five Mother’s Day gift ideas that will surely coax a smile from even the most disapproving of in-laws!

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GREEN & SPRING REVITALISING BIRD BOX These guys have to win the award for cutest packaging – a box in the style of a bird house. This gorgeous gift contains a bamboo exfoliating mitt, revitalising shower and bath gel, revitalising exfoliating body wash and a revitalising body lotion.

CHANEL No5 A little predictable we know, but…

The ultimate luxury fragrance with rose absolute, jasmine absolute and aldehydes there’s no fragrance more feminine or more legendary.

Give this to your mother and you’ll win brownie points for the rest of the year!

CLINIQ UE CHUBBY STICK FOR EYES Long wearing and non-smudging, these twist up cream eye shadow pencils glide on without dragging the skin. Vitamin E soothes the delicate eye area and with an array

of pastel toned colours there will be something for all mothers.

FROWNIES For those of you with mother outlaws instead of mother-in-laws!

These patches for the corners of eyes and mouth are the natural way to dramatically reduce expression lines by relaxing facial muscles while you sleep. A great, if slightly risky, gift.

LIF T AWAY THE YEARS FROM CRYSTAL CLEAR A battery powered oscillating tool that dispenses anti-ageing serum onto the skin. The tool helps deliver the serum deeper and by working upwards on the face, skin will appear lifted and plumped.

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// F A S H I O N //

PHOTO GRAPH ER

SHAMAYIM

WWW.SH AMAY IM.NE T TW ITTER AND INST AG R A M : @SHAM AYIM MAK E -UP ART IST

AN A SI QU E I R A

WWW.ANASIQ UEIRA. CO M INS TAGRAM: @ALNS HAIR ST Y LIST

T A KI A M E A C H AM

WWW.IAMSUP REMEST YLE. CO M TW ITTER: @T 4 KI4 SUPR EM E MODE LS

AM A N D A H I LL

WIL HE LMINA MO D ELS N Y WWW.WILH ELMINA.C O M

EUG E N A W A SHINGTO N MAJOR MO D ELS NY WWW.MAJO RMO D EL.CO M SWIMSUIT S P RO VID ED BY

N AT A LY A TO P O R O V A S W IMW EAR WWW.NAT ALY AT O PO R O V A. CO M JE W E LLERY PRO VID ED BY

GO TR O X X J E W ELR Y WWW.GO T RO XX.CO M OTHE R ACESSO RIES BY

RET RO SP E C T V I NTAGE WWW.FACEB O O K.COM / R E TROSPECT .VINT AGEF A SHIO N

AQUARIU 12

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// F A S H I O N //

P H O TO G R A P H E R

SHAMAYI M M A KE - U P A R TI S T

ANA SI QUEI RA H A I R S TY L I S T

T AK YA MEACHAM MODEL

AMANDA HI L L

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// F A S H I O N //

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P H O TO G R A P H E R

SHAMAYI M M A KE - U P A R TI S T

ANA SI QUEI RA H A I R S TY L I S T

T AK YA MEACHAM MODEL

EUG ENA WASHI NG T ON

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// F A S H I O N //

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P H O T O GRAPHER

SH A M A YIM MAKE-UP AR T IST

A N A SI Q U EIR A H AIR ST YLIST

T AKYA M E A C H AM MODEL

E U GENA WA SH I N G TO N W W W .T WO -- M AGA ZI N E. CO M

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Photography by Keith Clouston

// P R O A R T I S T S //

T

Basic Kit Essentials

CAROLINE BARNES

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here is a relaxed confidence about the lovely Caroline Barnes that seems to permeate through her work. With an impressive celebrity client list along with the role of UK Ambassador for Max Factor and editorials with some of the world’s best photographers, she’s one of the most successful and in-demand artists around.

What was your route into make-up?

On my twelfth birthday my parents took me to the theatre in London to see Cats and I can still remember the feeling of wide eyed fascination as I watched the performance.

When the curtain went down I was still glued to my seat itching to know what was going on behind it. The following year I begged to see Starlight

PH

M

J A S O N E LL MAK E - UP C ARO LI N E B A R N ES

HO T O

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PHOTO

D A V I D OLD M A N

M AK E -UP

C AROLI N E B A R N ES 24

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P H O TO

K E L L Y R O W LA N D

M AT T H EW SH AVE

P HO TO

SIM ON EMMET

P H O TO

S I MON EMM ET

// P R O A R T I S T S //

Express and again adrenalin sped though me and I was utterly transfixed by the performers and the stage. I wasn’t aware that make-up existed as a profession; I didn’t have any family or friends in the media industry so it all seemed an untouchable world.

When I left school I trained as a beauty therapist at college. It was there that I experimented with a collection box of make-up which consisted of just four eye shadows, two blushers and two lipsticks.

I pleaded with our tutor to invite a make-up artist along which she duly did. Charlene Gearing was working for Thames Television at the time and her presentation revealed a whole exciting new world of make-up artistry. It was at that moment I knew this was the path I wanted to follow.

The London College of Fashion offered the only government funded course at the time.

Competition was high but I was determined and took three portfolios of work to show them that I was keen. Luckily it paid off and I studied there for two years completing an HND. I started to gain experience by assisting lots of make-up artists on music videos and photo shoots.

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// P R O A R T I S T S //

P H OTO

G U S T A V O P A P A LE O

M A KE -UP

CAROL I N E B A R N ES F OR

JO H N LE W I S E D I T IO N

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// P R O A R T I S T S //

clients were Steve Coogan, Lenny Henry, Lee Evans and many more. Being comedians, Lisa created countless character looks and this broad spectrum of make-up artistry knowledge gave me such a strong foundation to build from.

I worked with Lisa for about two years and I’m still indebted to her for all her wise teaching and guidance. But I felt drawn to the fashion and music industry, so in my spare time I was also building up my portfolio and shooting as much as I could until I felt confident enough to approach a few agencies.

I started assisting makeup artists from an agency called Joy Goodman and after a period of time they sent me on my own jobs and eventually represented me. Since then I have had 28

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a few agencies and am currently fortunate enough to be represented by Sarah Reape who owns Frank agency.

It all seems so simplified on paper, but for the first four years I said yes to every job (most were unpaid) and worked tirelessly at building my career. There were many frustrating moments (still are!) but I’m a firm believer that hard work pays off. It’s a fiercely competitive industry, but if you are passionate, focused and remain positive, you’ll get there in the end!

Which one product do you never leave home without? My Sisley Nutritive Lip Balm, I have one in the car, my coat pocket and various handbags. I use it on my lips but also on my cuticles.

HARBOUR ISLAND (BAHAMAS) GU Y BO U R DIN DAR IA W ER BO W Y BEN CO O K E

SY LV I E B E NO IT FO R M A R I E C LAIR E C AR OLI N E B A R NES

PHOTO

MAK E - UP

K AT IE GR A N D

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// P R O A R T I S T S //

WHAT THE PROS CARRY

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02 03

01

Basic Kit Essentials

CAROLINE BARNES

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11 09

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20 26 27 36 37

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01 Clinique Brush Cleaner 02 Aerin Rose Hand Cream 03 Brushes from a million companies!

04 M.A.C Eyeshadow Palettes 05 Make Up For Ever Flash Colour Case 06 Kevyn Aucoin The Sculptor and Celestial Powder 07 G iorgio Armani Lip Maestro Glosses 08 J urlique Moisturizing Hand Sanitizer 09 Bioderma

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10 Yon-Ka Facial Spray 11 E stée Lauder DayWear Moisturiser 12 O rigins Ginger Souffle Body Cream 13 Chanel Les 4 Ombres 14 T om Ford Shade and Illuminate 15 M.A.C Pro Longwear Concealer

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16 17 18 19

Jurlique Rose Silk Powder M.A.C Face and Body Origins Peace Of Mind Max Factor Miracle Touch Creamy Blushers 20 Decléor Facial Oil 21 Aerin Pretty Bronze Illuminating Powders 22 Dior Bronzers 23 M.A.C Cream Colour Base in Pearl

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05

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14 13

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24 Max Factor All Day Flawless Foundation 25 I llamasqua Cream and Powder Blushers 26 S K-11 Facial Treatment Mask 27 M ax Factor Lash Extension Effect, False Lash Effect and Clump Defy Mascaras 28 Bobbi Brown Brow Gels

29 M.A.C Brow Pencils 30 Bobbi Brown Gel Liner 31 E stĂŠe Lauder Double Wear Liners 32 Sisley Phyto-Lip Glosses 33 Max Factor Giant Pen Stick 34 Illamasqua Nail Varnish 35 Givenchy Lip Liners 36 Liz Martins False Lashes

37 Ardell Knot Free Individuals 38 YSL Lipsticks 39 Tweezerman Slanted Tweezers 40 Clinique Airbrush Concealers 41 M ax Factor X-Pert Liquid Eyeliners 42 B obbi Brown Face Touch Up Sticks 43 B obbi Brown Retouching Powder 44 Nars Tinted Moisturisers 45 Givenchy Black Eye Pencil W W W .T WO -- M AGA ZI N E. CO M

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// S K I N C A R E //

SKINCARE GURU, FREY-JA BARKER, PREPARES FOR SPRING WITH HER TOP PRODUCTS FOR A FRESH, DEWY COMPLEXION

M

arch marks the start of spring, and after a long winter Mother Nature comes out of hibernation and back to life. Leaves start to sprout and the flowers are just beginning to bloom; when we wake in the morning everything glistens around us. Who’s with me and wants to give Mother Nature a run for her money with a fresh, dewy complexion?

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// S K I N C A R E //

01. NARS PURIFYING FOAM CLEANSER From the new NARS Light Reflecting range, this refreshing foam cleanser lifts away make-up and impurities without causing any irritation and is gentle enough for everyday use. The soothing Wild Rose extract will leave skin feeling ultra soft and refreshed, while peony extract helps control oil and reduce shine.

02 . GLAM GLOW YOUTH MUD MASKÂ Everyone should have a pot of this. Giving total resurface exfoliation and using volcanic rock, French sea clay and active green tea leaf, it will leave skin smoother, brighter and softer. Tightening pores and lifting the skin, this mask penetrates the deepest layers to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, leaving you radiant and glowing.

0 3. L A U R A M E R CIER FLAW LES S S KI N R E P A I R E Y E S ER U MÂ Perfect for those who want instant results.

Light reflecting pigments brighten the look of dark circles, Arnica oil, caffeine and green tea extract reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and firm the look of the skin, giving a fresh glow to tired eyes.

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01

02

03

05

06

04

04. REN ROSE O12 MOISTURE DEFENCE SERUM If your skin tends to be dehydrated, sensitive, or even jet-lagged, then this is a must for you.

Combining rosa damascena flower oil and vitamin A, this serum gives dry dehydrated skin a total protective shield to lock in moisture and restore softness and comfort, leaving skin looking youthful and fresh.

05. DAR P HIN HYDRASK I N L I G HT This light gel-cream is ideal for those with a dehydrated, dull, rough complexion.

Hydraskin contains Salicornia Herbacea which enhances water diffusion, recharging skin cells with water while Butterfly Lavender slows down water evaporation. Your skin will be hydrated and glowing all day.

06.C LAR INS BEAUT Y F L ASH B AL M The cult product for a softer, smoother and healthier-looking complexion. This is an instant beauty pick-me-up minimising signs of fatigue and/or stress. Applied on top of your skin care this will give you a more luminous finish whilst reducing the appearance of fine lines and ensuring your make-up lasts longer!

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// F A V O U R I T E 3 //

MY FAVOURITE THREE… Alesha Di xon BOOKS

ALBUMS

Eat Pray Love – Elizabeth Gilbert Awareness – Anthony De Mello New Earth – Eckhart Tolle

Lauren Hill – The Miseducation Michael Jackson – Dangerous Ryan Leslie – Transition

PLACES

FILMS

Tokyo, Jamaica and Los Angeles

Pretty Woman Avatar Titanic

MAKE-UP PRODUCTS Avon Ideal Flawless Foundation Avon SuperShock Gel Eyeliner M.A.C Cherry Lip Liner

TOKYO

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LIZ MARTINS

Salon System have teamed up with top make-up artist Liz Martins; whose work includes shoots for Vogue, Elle, Tatler and celebrities Girls Aloud, Cheryl Cole and Shakira.

Known as the Lash Queen, Liz has designed lashes for the Girls Aloud Tours and was brought in to revamp the make-up looks on the X Factor in 2010.

Now she has brought her expertise to the launch of her very own lash collection – Liz Martins Lash Enhance, exclusively for Salon System.

DESIGN Explore your creativity, apply individually or layer lashes together in any number of variations for a totally unique and individual style.

SELECT Add volume and length to enhance and define. Natural and intense individual lashes.

THE COLLECTION...

ELEVATION Dramatic lash that draws attention to the centre of the eye.

ENHANCE Combines depth and length to enhance and open the eye.

DEFINE Adds volume and definition to lower lashes.

INSPIRE Classic inspired lash

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// I C O N S //

G 38

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IMAGES

ST ILLNESS A T T H E S PE E D OF L I GH T GRA C E JO NE S B Y CH R I S L E VI NE M A KE - U P

TERRY BARBER

GJ

RACE ONES MODEL, POP STAR, BOND GIRL AND AL L -R OUND FOR CE OF NAT UR E, T WO PAY S T R IBUT E TO THE FEROCIOUSLY FABULOUS MS GRACE JONES

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// I C O N S //

M

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odels are there to look like mannequins, not like real people.”

says Grace “Art and illusion are supposed to be fantasy”, and from hanging out at the Factory with Andy Warhol to skydiving from the Eiffel Tower for a Bond film, Ms Jones has certainly lived a life beyond reality.

The Jamaican born New Yorker was

a regular of iconic nightclub Studio 54 and after finding fame as a model in the early 70s, she established herself as a successful recording artist with a string of disco hits.

She is an accomplished singer but it’s for her flamboyant costumes and various personas – fascinating, fearsome but always beautiful – that she has become a style inspiration. Her iconic look, with square ‘flat-top’ and angular clothes, was created with French designer Jean-Paul Goude. It challenged perceptions of the female form and provided a balance to the male androgyny established by artists such as Bowie and Bolan.

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“WORKING WITH GRACE A BEAUTIFUL EBONY MASK, PART PANTHER THIS INCREDIBLE FEM – TERRY BARBE

E IS LIKE WORKING WITH SCULPTURE. PART TRIBAL R… ALL WORKED INTO MALE FORM” ER

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// I C O N S //

Grace Jones became an artwork in herself. Her statuesque frame and soft, glowing skin is a canvas on which some of the most iconic and notorious artists have worked. Warhol’s pop-art Grace Jones had bright red lips against a baby pink background, Keith Haring’s vision of Jones was a body painted warrior, while more recently Chris Levine depicted her as a 3 dimensional holograph.

At the forefront of fierce style for over four decades, Grace Jones continues to innovate and amaze.

PRODUCTS USED MAKE UP FOR EVER HD #180 MORE INFO

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MAC PRO BLUSH DIRTY PLUM MORE INFO

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IMAN LUXURY BLUSHING POWDER PEACE MORE INFO

MILANI BAKED BLUSH RED VINO MORE INFO

CREATE A CLASSIC LOOK WITH THIS GRACE JONES INSPIRED TUTORIAL BY DESTINY GODLEY

REVLON LIPSTICK LOVE THAT PINK MORE INFO

URBAN DECAY BLUNT EYE SHADOW MORE INFO MAC LIP LINER NIGHT MOTH MORE INFO

DIOR LIP GLOSS BLACK TIE PLUM MORE INFO

MAKE UP FOR EVER 12 COLOR FLASH KIT MORE INFO

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// T H E M O M E N T //

#themoment Tweet your ‘behind the scenes’ pics to @TWOmagazine

Adriana Marie Co. Empire Hotel rooftop Rachel Wood

Adriana Marie Co. rooftop Rachel W

Fashion Star Rachel Wood

Fashion Star Rachel Wood

Fashion Star Rac

Fashion Star Rachel Wood

Fashion Star Rachel Wood

BTS Lisa Ray

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Empire Hotel Wood

Adriana Marie Co. Empire Hotel rooftop Rachel Wood

Adriana Marie Co. Empire Hotel rooftop Rachel Wood

chel Wood

Fashion Star Rachel Wood

Fashion Star Rachel Wood

BTS Lisa Ray

BTS Lisa Ray W W W .T WO -- M AGA ZI N E. CO M

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// L I Z M A R T I N S //

THE CH A I R

Liz Martins brings you INSIDER TIPS and

tales

IN

HER exclusive

COLUMN

A

EACH ISSUE

fter a fantastic holiday in India and brimming with inspiration, I came back to a snow-covered London

with a need for colour. Lucky for me I went straight back to work a day later at a shoot for British Vogue with the designer Michael van der Ham. The set was filled with the most gorgeous delicate, colourful prints and to match these I created lilac eyes, a raspberry lip and skin that was left bare apart from a touch of concealer under the eyes. With the hair

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pulled off the face it was grown up but with a youthful essence.

I stayed with the same theme for my next beauty shoot for Volt magazine, shot by the brilliant Rui Faria. The whole shoot was based around two contrasting purple and red walls and so I brought that into the make-up with accents of black. Using M.A.C Pro lip palettes in red and plum to create different tones and then matting them right down using M.A.C pigments the lips looked almost 3D. I also played with bold eye shapes and different textures from matt to super-glossy. As the eyes were so strong I took the mouth right out using M.A.C lip mix and concealer to create the palest dreamy pillow lips.

I worked on another great fashion shoot for Notion magazine with seven models dressed in white and I was given free

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// L I Z M A R T I N S //

reign with the make-up.

Cara Delevigne. I also

As they were all new faces played with liquid liner I didn’t want to mask their

(I am a massive fan of

beauty so I chose to pick

the Eyeko pens), coloured

02

03

one feature and play it up. mascara and using Using colours like tangerine eyeshadow as lip colours and soft pinks on the lips,

– I love the effect of

I brushed the eyebrows

a shimmer shadow on

against their natural way

the lips and how it brings

of growth to create a wild

out all the texture.

01

effect. On another model I really emphasised and

Now after all this colour

strengthened her brows

talk I have to finish on

á la model-of-the-moment what I use to make any 48

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01 CROWES CREMINE 02 BIODERMA 03 INGLOT MAKEUP REMO 04 SHU UEMURA BALANC

OVER CING CLEANSING OIL

corrections and most

mascara I’m never without

importantly take it all off.

Inglot Makeup Remover

I have tried and tested

(thanks Mr David Horne!)

a gazillion products but

and last but by no means

I always seem to go back

least Crowes Cremine

to these four. For an

which also acts as the most

all-out melt-it-off remover

fantastic product to make

it as to be Shu Uemura

the body shine and glisten!

Balancing Cleansing Oil, 04

then there’s the cleanser

See you next time make-up

of the moment, Bioderma,

mavens and beauty freaks.

which appears in most

Liz xx

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// I N F O C U S //

LOOKS AND QUOTES FROM MILAN, NEW YORK AND LONDON

“PURE, MINIMAL CHIC.” – LLOYD SIMMONDS

AL B ERT A F ERRET T I Make-up by Lloyd Simmonds 50

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PHO T O CO U R T ESY OF

M.A.C COSMET I CS

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PHOTO CO URT ESY O F

M.A.C C O S METIC S

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JU M

“SEXYAI MORNING-AFTER-THE-NIGHT-BEFORE EYES.”

– BENJAMIN PUCKEY

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PH

O R fo R Fa 54

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HO T OS COURTESY O F

STA R PIX FO R R EV LO N

“EACH OF THE FOUR LOOKS REPRESENTS A DIFFERENT TYPE OF GIRL: GYPSY, SOPHISTICATE, URBAN CHIC AND EAST ASIAN JET SETTER. THE ONE COMMON THREAD IS PURITY. I CREATED A LOOK THAT HIGHLIGHTS THE INNATE BEAUTY OF THE FACE FROM THE EYES TO THE LIP TO CLEAR, SHINY SKIN.”

– GUCCI WESTMAN

OSC AR D E LA R E N TA Revlon Global Artistic Director, Gucci Westman, created our diverse make-up looks to complement Oscar de la Renta’s Autumn/Winter ’13 collection during New York Fashion Week.

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“TO COMPLEMENT MARCHESA’S BEAUTIFUL DESIGNS, I WANTED THE GIRLS TO LOOK LIKE VICTORIAN ANGELS THAT HAD BEEN FROLICKING AROUND OUTDOORS. I STARTED WITH FLAWLESS, MATTE SKIN AND ADDED A GREAT ROSY CHEEK. FOR THE EYES, I TRACED A SMALL AMOUNT OF BLACK LIQUID LINER ACROSS THE TOP LID, USED BROWN LINER ON THE BOTTOM LID, ADDED A THIN COAT OF MASCARA JUST TO LIFT THE LASHES AND FINISHED WITH A BIT OF A STRONG BROW. THE ENTIRE LOOK IS VERY REFRESHING, CLEAN AND NOT TOO FUSSY. I CHOSE TO STEER AWAY FROM A TRADITIONAL RED CARPET LOOK TO MAKE THE CLOTHING A BIT MORE ACCESSIBLE FOR THE EVERY DAY WOMAN.”

– GUCCI WESTMAN

MARCHESA Revlon Global Artistic Director, Gucci Westman, created a romantic and ethereal look with rosy cheeks and flirty eyes for Marchesa’s Fall 2013 collection.

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PHO T O CO U R T ESY O F

ST ARPI X F OR REVL ON

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PHOTO CO URT ESY O F

ES Tﾃ右 LAU DER

C

I

A

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D Es of N

“THE BEAUTY LOOK DEREK LAM AND I CREATED FOR THE FALL 2013 SHOW IS A SOPHISTICATED, MINIMAL URBAN HIPPIE – PLAYING OFF OF DEREK’S INSPIRATIONAL MOOD BOARD AND THE TEXTURES AND COLOURS OF THE FABRICS IN HIS COLLECTION. THE FOCUS IS ON THE EYES AND THE LIPS. I PLACED A HIGHLIGHT OF METALLIC SHIMMER IN THE CENTRE OF THE EYELID, TO MAKE IT APPEAR VERY FLAT, LIKE A TWO-DIMENSIONAL PAINTING ON A CANVAS. THE SATURATED STAIN ON THE LIPS IS VERY STRONG AND INTENSE – A MIX OF BROWN, MAROON AND BURGUNDY. THE SKIN IS VERY FRESH AND IRIDESCENT, A SATIN-MATTE TEXTURE.”

– TOM PECHEUX

ER E K L A M stée Lauder Creative Make-up Director Tom Pecheux led a team f 13 make-up artists to create the stunning look on 27 models.

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“I WANTED TO CREATE A LOOK THAT WAS SUPER GIRLY AND CONTRASTED WITH THE MASCULINE FEEL OF THE COLLECTION. THE FOCUS OF THIS LOOK IS DEFINITELY THE EYELINER. I ADDED A BIT OF A MODERN TWIST TO A CLASSIC 60s LOOK BY USING A GEL LINER ACROSS THE TOP OF THE LID. I KEPT THE REST OF THE LOOK SIMPLE AND PAIRED IT WITH NATURAL AND LUMINOUS SKIN. I LOVE HOW THE WHOLE LOOK IS A BIT RETRO, BUT STILL FRESH.”

– GUCCI WESTMAN

RAG & B ONE Revlon Global Artistic Director, Gucci Westman, juxtaposed the masculine designs of Rag & Bone’s Autumn / Winter ‘13 collection with a soft and feminine make-up look.

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PHO T O CO U R T ESY O F

ST ARPI X F OR REVL ON

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PHOTO CO URT ESY O F

S TAR P IX FO R R EV LO N

P

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A M G

“I CREATED A LUMINOUS BASE ON THE SKIN USING THE NEW REVLON SKINLIGHTS IN PINK LIGHT WITH MY BABY STICK IN PINK PASSION TO CREATE A FLAWLESS, PORCELAIN EFFECT ON THE GIRLS. THE FOCUS OF THE LOOK WAS THE BRIGHT CRIMSON LIP WITH THE REST OF THE FEATURES BEING VERY NON-INTENTIONAL AND SIMPLISTIC.”

– GUCCI WESTMAN

ANTON I O B E R A R D I Make-up by Revlon Global Artistic Director, Gucci Westman.

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“IT’S ALL DAY AND ALL NIGHT MAKE-UP. IT’S ABOUT FINDING THE BEAUTY IN THE UNKNOWN. SOMETIMES IT’S ABOUT WHAT’S LEFT OVER.”

– JAMES O’RILEY

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PHO T O CO U R T ESY O F

M.A.C COSMET I CS

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PHOTO CO URT ESY O F

M .A.C C O S METIC S

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A M

“GRAPHIC, INDUSTRIAL WITH A PLAY ON CONTRASTING TEXTURES.”

– ANDREW GALLIMORE

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// A R T I S T P R O F I L E //

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5

MINUTES WITH

When did you decide to become a make-up artist… what made you think ‘That’s what I want to do’?

I grew up in Tauranga, small town New Zealand, and was always fascinated by the images in publications like Italian Vogue and American Vanity Fair as well as watching the glamorous starlets of the silver screen in 40s films. From around the age of twelve I was getting my mother and her girlfriends ready to go out. I loved seeing how make-up and hair could change not only the way a person looked but also how they felt about themselves. I think even today that is one of the most rewarding aspects of my job.

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Are you self-taught or did you study?

I trained in hair at Servilles Academy of Hairdressing before working in one of Auckland’s leading salons. Afterwards I went on to win the title of Wella Young Protégé and was a Finalist in L’Oreal’s Colour Trophy as well as the Wella Trend Vision World Final’s.

Having taught myself make-up mostly through trial and error it was Kevyn Aucoin’s book Making Faces that essentially helped me hone the fundamental basics of facial architecture and how to make the most of a woman’s beauty.

What’s your make-up style?

I’d like to think my make-up style is polished, without being too overdone, allowing my clients to look effortless and timeless. I often reference classic styling, films and iconic images, reinterpreting them with my own aesthetic. For me, the 1970s were a wonderful moment in both beauty and fashion history; it was a time when women were sexy yet had understated glamour and softness to the way they presented themselves.

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ADELE ARRIVES AT THE 85T ACADEMY AWARDS PHOTO JASON MERRITT / G

Who or what inspires you?

Inspiration is everywhere, it’s just a matter of being open to the things around you, and how they might translate into something creatively inspiring.

Do you prefer to work on set shooting or tour with clients / press junkets?

As much as I love being on set shooting and creating beautiful images, there is something fantastic about being on the road with clients, building relationships and sharing adventures together creating memories that will last a lifetime.

Which product would you advise someone to never leave home without?

It has to be Lucas Paw Paw Ointment – the ultimate multi-purpose product for lush lips, shimmering lids

TH ANNUAL

GETTY IMAGES

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LOUISE ROE and a freshly flushed sheen to the cheeks.

Your top five products?

1. Udo’s Ultimate Blend Oil – Beauty really does start from the inside out and Udo’s Oil is packed with ingredients that help get hair and skin in peak condition.

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2. Decléor Aromessence Rose d’Orient Oil – My all-time go-to skin prep product. It hydrates skin whilst calming any irritation, and used under complexion this product creates a cashmere-touch texture.

3. Armani Maestro Foundation – Massage

this feather light a intuitive foundation skin for a picture p luminous complexi 4. Dior Show Off Ma in Black – This mas is fantastic for a p pumping-up lash vo to a rich blacker tha flirty flutter.

and n into the perfect, ion. ascara scara party, olume an black

5. MyFace Lip Liner in Nude – An absolute make-up kit must-have for cheating the illusion of a full and defined pout, without being too obvious.

Which other make-up artist has helped you along the way in your career?

Kevyn Aucoin was genuinely one of the true talents who I feel left a real legacy for the beauty industry that helped shape my early career. You also have inspirational artists like Pat McGrath whose creativity remains unrivalled, and Val Garland who has a way of making women look effortlessly beautiful, which is something I have always aimed to achieve myself.

Mentioning no names of course, tell us a funny industry-related story.

I was in Cannes for the film festival working with a client and we were shot together on the beach by paparazzi.

I ended up in the press as her new boyfriend and I was apparently a member of a mariachi band and had been given a new name – too funny for so many reasons!

Do you feel the industry’s changed since you first started?

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that the inside world of beauty is more accessible to the consumer. Social media provides a great line of communication between artists, brands, and the online beauty community. It is also fantastic to see young talent realising their passion for beauty earlier on and being encouraged to follow their dreams.

What best defines beauty for you?

Beauty is as distinct as every individual; everyone is beautiful in their own way and it’s a matter of emphasising those strengths to create each person’s own bespoke beauty look.

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PHOTO

VICTOR DE MELLO

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You have been Adele’s make-up artist for the past six years, what is it like to work so closely with such a high profile artist?

I first started working with Adele just prior to the release of her debut album 19 when we were introduced through a mutual connection. I’m fortunate to have been working with her from the start and we have been on an amazing journey together as her career has gone from strength to strength. It’s fantastic to have a client whose success is all about natural talent for which she is celebrated and recognised.

What defines Adele’s signature style…What makes it unique to her?

Lashes and liner have 76

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been a focus feature of her make-up look since we started working together. She has beautiful almond shaped eyes which means she can carry any look, but I think the classic liquid liner is simple and striking whilst at the same time just a little bit sexy. Like with anything, a style evolves organically over time and touring in America meant we had the chance to develop looks that were fresh and exciting but had an influence and feeling that is very much Adele.

Which other musician would you like to work with, past or present?

Frank Sinatra. I would have loved to work with him in the days of the ‘Rat Pack’ and the Vegas

Strip. He is one of original men who d cool and was alwa perfectly groomed!

Is working with mu actors and talent di than working with m In general it does r a slightly different a and temperament comparison to wo with models. For ex when designing a m up, hair, grooming for talent you hav take into considerat only what you thin look good but also unique personalitie beauty preferences

You grew up in bea New Zealand, has had an influence o work in any way? there any advantag disadvantages that

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think result from being on the opposite side of the world to cities like Paris, NYC, LA, London etc?

New Zealand is such an extraordinary creative platform to start any career. I definitely think that because it is such a melting pot it allows you to develop your own innate style. My early career was very much influenced by the New Zealand ascetic that’s all about a natural beauty, fresh skin, and simplistic use of colour. Still today that remains the essence of my work, although having now worked in many of the major world cities with some fantastic talent my influences are drawn from everywhere.

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You’re one of the most in-demand artists, what keeps you relaxed?

I have a wonderful circle of people who I’ve known for a long time and in this job you need trusted friendships that remain strong despite the distance, as often you’re not always around due to travelling. My favourite way to relax is heading out to the English countryside with my dog Sir Maximilian, staying with friends and show jumping horses – it reminds me of growing up in rural New Zealand and also that the simple things are often the best.

AMBER HEARD ZAC EFRON

How do you cope with the demands of travelling around the world? Do you have any tips or quirky routines to cope with jet lag etc?

I’ve learned how to get packing down to a fine art and I have duplicates of everything from toiletries to laptop chargers, so they’re always ready to go.

A comfy hoody and lavender eye mask is a must when it comes to flying as well as my favourite films / TV shows on the iPad. The first thing I do when I check into a hotel is light my favourite Diptyque Candle and run a bubble bath – the perfect way to settle into new surroundings even if it is only home for a night or two!

FRENCH RIVIERA HELM U T N EW T ON ELIZABET H T AYLOR CA R IN E R O IT F EL D

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A

S / S13

Dewy Skin TRENDS

spring inspired make-up look for SS13. Moving on from the strong autumn/winter looks and Christmas glitter, spring/summer is all about natural-looking beautiful skin and using cream products to create a wearable dewy, radiant complexion with pinpointed highlights to the face.

Take it a step further and team with a strong brow or – if you feel daring – some blue mascara or eyeliner.

PRODUCTS USED // M.A.C 239 BRUSH MORE INFO

DANIEL SANDLER INVISIBLE RADIANCE FOUNDATION AND CONCEALER MORE INFO

M.A.C FASCINATING KOHL PENCIL MORE INFO STARGAZER ARCTIC BLUE EYESHADOW MORE INFO

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M.A.C 217 BRUSH MORE INFO M.A.C 266 BRUSH MORE INFO BEN NYE CONTOUR MORE INFO

M.A.C HONEY LOVE LIPSTICK MORE INFO

BOURJOIS ULTRA BLACK VOLUME GLAMOUR MASCARA MORE INFO M.A.C OMEGA EYESHADOW MORE INFO

M.A.C PEARL CCB HIGHLIGHT MORE INFO

M.A.C WEDGE EYESHADOW MORE INFO

LAURA MERCIER SECRET BRIGHTENING POWDER MORE INFO

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// F A S H I O N //

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P H O T O GRAPHER

CORINA MARIE HOWELL WWW.CO RIN A M A R IE. CO M T WIT T ER: COR IN AM AR IE19 MAKE- UP ARTIST

A SH M A TH EW S

WWW.ASHMATHEWS.COM T WIT T ER: @A M A K EU PAR T H AIR ST Y LIST

LE A H B AC IN O MO D EL

M A D I SO N

AT WWW.LAMODELS.COM T WIT T ER: @L A M O DELSAGEN CY

BEAUTY PRODUCTS USED //

EYESHADOW: MAKE UP FOR EVER FLASH PALETTE AND YABY EYESHADOW IN FUNKY PLUM AND OH MY GRAPENESS BLUSH: NARS ORGASM LIPSTICK: OCC LIPTAR TRUE ORANGE

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P H O TO G R A P H E R

CORINA MARIE HOWELL M A KE - U P A R TI S T

A SH MAT HEWS H A I R S TY L I S T

LEAH B ACI NO MODEL

KASSI AND MADI SON

PRODUCTS USED // KASSI ( LEFT ) EYESHADOW: MAC SHROOM BLUSH: YABY BLUSH OUT LOUD PALETTE LIPS: MAKE UP FOR EVER FLASH PALETTE AND OCC LIP TARS MADISON ( RIGHT ) EYESHADOW: MAKE UP FOR EVER FLASH PALETTE AND YABY EYESHADOW IN FUNKY PLUM & JUST ORANGE, MAC SUSHI FLOWER, BLUSH: YABY BLUSH BL001 LIPSTICK: MAC LIPSTICK HUE

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P H O TOG R A PH ER

CORINA MARI E HOWELL M AK E -UP ART IST

AS H MA TH E W S H A IR S TYL IST

LEA H B A C I N O M O DE L

KASSI

PRODUCTS USED // EYESHADOW: MAKE UP FOR EVER FLASH PALETTE AND YABY EYESHADOW IN HIBISCUS BLUSH: YABY BLUSH IN BL038 LIPSTICK: MAC LIPSTICK IN HUE FOUNDATION: FACE ATELIER ULTRA FOUNDATION

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WOR D S

H

LI SA K I R W AN

ELENA CHRISTENSEN is without doubt one of the most recognisable faces in fashion. Although

still in demand as a model, Helena is now more often found behind the lens rather than in front of it. Shooting for a wide range of glossy mags as well as high profile campaigns, Helena has rightfully earned a solid reputation for her photography while her exhibitions have drawn praise from industry pundits and critics alike.

Born to a Danish father and Peruvian mother on Christmas Day 1968, Helena began modelling at just nine years old and at 16 was crowned Miss Copenhagen. She would go on to be subsequently crowned Miss Denmark and also went on to represent Denmark in the 1988 Miss Universe event. It wasn’t too long before Helena headed for Paris to pursue a career as a model.

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March 1990 saw Helena on the cover of British Vogue for the first time – a cover that she was destined to grace a further five times. She would soon become a household name, cementing her place in fashion history as one of the elite supermodels alongside Kate Moss, Cindy Crawford and Naomi Campbell.

BEN AFFLECK

COU

Helena fronted campaigns for design houses such as Chanel, Versace, Prada and Hermes, to name but a few. Italian designer Gianni Versace described her as having “The most beautiful body in the world” after she featured in one of his campaigns. In 1992, she dated INXS front man Michael Hutchence, becoming one half of the hottest couple in showbiz.

As the 90s drew to a close, we saw the first indication of a career transition when she co-founded Nylon magazine taking on the role of Creative Director.

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GWYNET

URTNEY LOVE

TH PALTROW

“ THE MORE PEOPLE EXPLORE THE WORLD, THE MORE THEY REALISE IN EVERY COUNTRY THERE’S A DIFFERENT AESTHETIC. BEAUTY REALLY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BEHOLDER

” – H ELENA C HR IS TE N S E N

More recently, Helena has applied her skills to a worthy cause by working with ONE International, an organisation co-founded by her friend Bono, which aims to fight extreme poverty and preventable diseases in some of the world’s most impoverished countries. Using her high-profile contacts Helena photographed a variety of celebrities including Courtney Love, Gwyneth Paltrow and Ben Affleck in support of the ONE campaign.

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Helena is currently an Oxfam Ambassador and spent four years photographing climate change and the debilitating effect that it is having on people’s ability to maintain their own food sources in countries such as Kenya, Nepal and her mother’s native Peru. Helena compiled a book, Meltdown, which she presented to world leaders at the Rio+20 summit in June 2012.

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HEL ENA MODEL S HER NEW COL L ECT I ON PHOTOS © TRIUMPH

With continuing demand as a model, Helena is clearly not ready to hang up her boots quite yet. Reminding us that Versace’s words are as relevant today as they were twenty years ago, she recently stripped down to promote the launch of her own range of underwear in

collaboration with Triumph – a brand she’s previously modelled for. This time however, her experience as a photographer resulted in Helena having creative control of the shoot. The perfect location? Her beach house near Copenhagen of course!

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WITH HIS EFFORTLESS LINES AND DE L IC A TE U S E OF CO LOUR , DAV I D D OW N TON HAS B E C O M E THE L E A D I N G FASH IO N IL L U S TR A TOR OF H IS GE NE R A TI ON

DAVID DOWNTO 96

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Dita Von Teese Hotel de Crillon, Paris, 2008

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H

is illustrations grace the pages of the most influential fashion magazines in the world but David Downton’s journey into the world of fashion was entirely unexpected.

“Someone ONCE described MY WORK as

‘CONTEMPORARY NOSTALGIA’ – W HICH

sounds

pretty GOOD to ME ”

In 1996, a commission from the Financial Times saw him travel to Paris and sketch at the couture shows, “I was surprised, to say the least, as I had never even seen a fashion show”. His passion ignited, Downton dedicated his career to fashion.

Inspired by legendary artists René Gruau, Eric, Bouché and Antonio, his work features what he calls “the reductive line”, drawings that eliminate extraneous detail leaving only what is necessary.

His elegantly inked images capture the essence of his subject leaving essential ‘breathing space’, a gap for the viewers eye to fill in.

David Downton is the author of Masters of Fashion Illustration and in 2007 launched Pourquois Pas? the first journal of fashion illustration.

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O U R FAV O U R I T E S U B M I S S I O N T H I S I S S U E…

P H O TO G R A P H E R

L EE MI T CHEL L

W W W.L E E M I TC H E L L P H O TO G R A P H Y .C O M M A KE - U P A R TI S T

DJ G RI F F I N

W W W .FA C E B O O K.C O M / D JG R I FFI N M A KE U P A R TI S T H A I R S TY L I S T

OL I VI A MUL DOON

WWW.OLIVIASHAIRDESIGN.COM MODEL

CAROL I NE T AYL OR 100

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PANTONE FASHION COLOUR REPORT FALL 2013

®

Pantone have recently released their colour trend forecast for the winter months with Emerald remaining a fixture.

Executive director of the Pantone Color Institute®, Leatrice Eiseman explains, “Just as the leaves change in autumn, the consumer will enjoy the ability to change their ‘look’ and try a new approach to their wardrobe for brisk days ahead. The fall 2013 palette allows for that versatility and experimentation.”

From May 5th until June 5th, the Palais de Tokyo in Paris plays host to No.5 Culture Chanel an exhibition focusing on the timeless fragrance launched in 1921 and its iconic creator, Coco Chanel.

Fashion and music icon, David Bowie is celebrated at London’s V&A Museum from 23rd March until 11 August. Lyrics, costumes, photography, film and music all feature in this retrospective.

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// F R O M T H E V A U L T //

…BEC AUSE SOME T HINGS A R E WOR T H WATCHING AG A IN

GRACE JONES PULL UP TO THE BUMPER © ISLAND RECORDS PRODUCER: CHRIS BLACKWELL, ALEX SADKIN WRITER: KOOKOO BAYA, GRACE JONES, DANA MANO RELEASED: JUNE 1981

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I S S U E 06 // M A RC H 2013

It just had to be Grace Jones this month!

She has always claimed the suggestive lyrics were entirely innocent but this song from her 1981 album Nightclubbing caused a bit of a stir. The video includes live footage from her A One Man Show tour and is regarded as one of the most influential in dance music history.

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