21 minute read
Markets/Shops/Food
from The Berlin Bunch
PHOTO:Flohmarkt Mauerpark, page 39
Türkenmarkt
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Turkish Market
Every Tuesday and Friday a Turkish Market opens in the Neukölln area of Berlin. There are about a hundred stalls selling all things Turkish - great traditional food and ingredients to take home, as well as a colourful array of fabrics and clothing. Everything comes at a fair price. The crowds attending are a mix of locals and tourists. There is also a freaky street magician who keeps his audience in a trance - some of whom are getting into the spirit of things by smoking hashish and shisha, which gives an authentic aroma to proceedings.
There are reportedly three million Turkish people in Germany, the highest population outside of Turkey itself, so it’s no surprise that they have a huge presence in this country’s most cosmopolitan city. Neukölln - dubbed ‘little Istanbul’ - is right at the heart of it. On a sunny afternoon, its canal-side location is worth a trip, although arguably just visiting this area at any time will do if it’s some Turkish produce you’re after.
Maybuchufer, 10999| Neukölln Tuesdays & Fridays 11.00-18.30 Schönleinstraße | €€€€€ | Tuerkenmarkt.de
Words: William Barber
Flohmarkt im Mauerpark
Mauerpark Flea Market
You’ll soon fgure out that Berlin isn’t a city short of markets or decent vintage shops. So, whether you’re here for a while and want to see the best or you only have the time to visit one, make that one Mauerpark Flea Market. Remember that childhood toy you lost and thought you’d never see again? Well, there’s a good chance it’s here. From Simon and Garfunkel vinyl’s to rusty rollerblades and foral door knobs to vintage typewriters, there’s really no end to the collections. A perfect way to engage in some Berlin culture every Sunday, this market brings together locals winding down their weekend and tourists making the most of the city’s free activities. An array of food stalls as well as musical entertainment within the open space all add to the cheap and cheerful vibe. Worth a visit on a sunny day and still doable if not, but perhaps combine it with some nearby extras, such as Cafe Anna Blume. This is just a few tram stops away. Also be sure to check out the Bear Pit Karaoke, which is also in Mauer Park, from 3pm onwards for a good lugh!
Bernauer Straße 13-24, 10785, Prenzlauer Berg | M8/M10 Tram Wolliner Straße | €€€€€ | 9:00 – 18:00 |
Words: Amie Pearce
Markthalle Neun
Street Food Thursdays
Every Thursday, there is a street food market about ten minutes’ walk away from Berlin’s Gorlitzer Park. It offers up a selection of food and drink from across the world with its patrons seated on tables reminiscent of a beer hall.
German food is under-represented, with people preferring to serve up Asian, Caribbean and South American food. It’s best to get there early since by six it is full and all the seats are taken. There is enough going on to keep you entertained and there are loads of independently made beers and wines to choose from. As is often the case with a food market, everyone is in high spirits. It’s always a good thing to buy food from people that believe in their product, the big shame being that you cannot try all of it.
Words: William Barber
Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap
Street Food
Döner kebab is the most commonly found fast-food in Berlin, which is the place with the largest Turkish population outside of Turkey itself. Mustafa’s kebap is arguably the most famous and popular kebab stand in the city. It’s a tiny booth manned by two or three staff - a well-oiled, people-pleasing machine. The mind boggles at the number of kebabs these guys have assembled over the years. High popularity has led to high demand. If you have somewhere else to be after lunch, come here another time as queues of up to an hour are not uncommon. Bring good company and a cold beer and the time will pass soon enough. Their döner consists of crispy chicken, roasted vegetables, goat cheese and a splash of fresh lemon juice, all served in toasted bread and covered in their own homemade garlic and hot sauces. This is best when accompanied by the salty yoghurt drink ayran. This kebab certainly hits the spot even if it is a messy affair getting through it. The vast majority of people who eat here are tourists. While it may be the most popular, it is not necessarily the best kebab in Berlin. Nevertheless, it is worth a visit if you have time. It is also has really good value - under fve euros for food and a drink.
Mehringdamm 32, 10961, Kreuzberg | mustafas.de 10.30-14.00 | Mehringdamm | €€€€€ |
Words: William Barber
Kleidermarkt Vintage Vintage Shops
Blend in with the locals and shop where the Berliners do in the many vintage and secondhand shops across the city. Vintage shopping is incredibly popular and diverse in Berlin, from pop-ups at weekend flea markets such as the Mauerpark Fleamarket to vintage en masse in Humana, an eco-friendly chain with several locations in every neighbourhood. If you’re an experienced shopper with a creative eye, Colours Kleidermarkt offers a unique shopping experience with pricing per kilo of clothes. Step into a scene from Pretty in Pink as you dig through patterns and fabrics to the beat of 80s classics by Otis Redding on loop. For the easily overwhelmed, smaller curated vintage shops are scattered throughout Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg neighbourhoods. One such place is Repeater, where you’ll find more treasure than trash with selected and upcycled styles towards the pricier side of the vintage market.
Gneisenaustraße | €€€€€ |
Words: Milan Cater
The Ampelmann Shop Souvenirs
The Ampelmann is a symbol of Berlin culture; it brings back memories of the former divided Germany. The quirky little man with a hat is a symbol of life in former East Germany and used to be on every traffic light in the GDR. It’s always difficult to find souvenirs that are not the same old merchandise found in all the tourist shops but the figure of the Ampelmann gives you the twist needed from the usual mass produced souvenirs. The shop has a good range of items on offer and is fairly priced for souvenirs. You can find the classic t-shirts, pens and postcards but also find more unusual products like umbrellas, towels, notebooks and even gummi sweets. There are several shops located near tourist spots, one in Alexanderplatz and one near Brandenburg Gate.
Unter den Linden 35, 10117, Mitte| 9.30-22.00| ampelmann.de Französische Straße|€€€€€
Words: Erica Reyes
Another Country Bookshop
If you’re a bookworm who appreciates organised chaos and that old book smell, Another Country is the shop for you. Located in Kreuzberg, the bookshop sells second hand English books, but it can be also used as a library. You pay for the book and if you want to return it, you’ll get back what you paid, minus a 1.50€ fee. Although the books are meticulously sorted by genre and author, it feels as if you’re browsing someone’s personal library rather than a bookshop. There are two rooms with wall to ceiling shelves which feature framed pictures, vases and other ornaments as well as books. There’s a mix of literary and genre fiction, non-fiction, reference and a few interesting categories of the owner’s choosing, such as “evil books” which includes Justin Bieber’s autobiography. The shop also hosts reading groups and film nights and is a hub of activity for British expats. If you enjoy poking round quirky shops then Another Country merits a visit, particularly if you are exploring Kreuzberg or are staying in Berlin for a longer time and fancy borrowing some books.
Riemannstraße 7, 10961, Kreuzberg | varies Gneisenaustraße | €€€€€ | anothercountry.de
shakesbooks.de
Words: Zoë Charlesworth
Shakespeare & Sons Cafe Bookshop
Perfect for the bookworm and for the studious worker, this bookstore has more to it than just reading material. Look to the right and there’s a bagel shop with sandwiches, cakes, bagels, and sodas to fill up on when you’re on the go. Eat outside in the shade before heading over to browse the selection of English-language books. Up the stairs are tables and comfortable lounge chairs. Read the day away or make use of the free wifi on your laptop. There’s some quiet chattering from the adults in this space, but with the gentle music playing overhead, it’s nothing more than background noise.
At the far end of this small shop is another room, but beware: this room is not for those who are prone to wifi-withdrawal. Computers are not allowed in this room. A sign above the door reads, “For face-to-face human interaction.” It was of no surprise, then, that the room was empty. However, it’s quieter in there and a great place to relax amongst the French-language books.
Frankfurter Tor | €€€€€ |
Café am Neuen See
Cafe
Tucked away inside the beautiful Tiergarten, Café am Neuen See is certainly the spot to grab a reasonably priced beer and relax after a full day of sight-seeing. It is located in a prime spot and is in walking distance from most of Berlin’s biggest attractions. With its picnic style seating and relaxed atmosphere this place appeals to young and old, tourists and locals alike. If you want to try your hand at rowing a boat on the Neuer See where you can purchase a key and take in the serenity of the lake. The beautiful view of the lake makes one forget that they are in the large metropolitan of Berlin. If you happen to be there during a football match, it is a great way to catch the action with plenty of seating and a large projector. To tire the cliché of “can’t miss” things in reviews this one has to be used, as it truly is something that cannot be missed.
Lichtensteinalle 2, 10787, Mitte | 11.00–19.00 Bus Nordische Botschaften| €€€€€ cafeamneuensee.de
Words: Ryan Stelter
Café am Literatur Haus
Cafe
If you are looking to blow your budget on an impeccable meal, stop by the Café im Literaturhaus. With just one step in the courtyard, five or so tables shaded by umbrellas peek up from the luscious greenery of the garden. To the right is a picturesque brick building with tables filling up the porch. Well-dressed individuals sit and talk whilst enjoying their wine and meals. The atmosphere is charming and elegant. It is not quite a place for a twenty-something to enjoy a plentiful meal on a budget. If you plan on going there for a well-balanced meal, a healthy sum of money would help. The wall décor is lovely, and a tree sits pleasantly in the center of the front room. If help is needed to decide what to order, the wait staff will gladly explain the menu. The wine and appetizers are delicious, and the cakes are to die for.
Kurfürstendamm | €€€€€ | literaturhaus-berlin.de
Words: Laura Hendricksen
Bonanza Coffee Roasters
Cafe
For the coffee lovers out there searching for a chill café, Bonanza Coffee Heroes should be paid a visit. The inside is more of a studying environment; individuals line the wall in the front room. Perhaps the free wifi has something to do with it. If you prefer to sit outside, there is a lovely courtyard hidden by plants that echoes with the laughter of some happily caffeinated people. Now, let’s talk about coffee. They have your basic café goods: pastries, cappuccinos, espressos, Americanos and your general cup of joe. They happen to roast their own coffee if that sparks an interest. Paper bags of coffee beans encircle the counter, and shelves can be found stacked with the same. Be prepared to almost walk past the joint because the store sign is small and a little difficult to read. Also, there is no menu on the wall; it is actually hidden behind bags of coffee. Try to avoid being an awkward tourist unless you want discomforting stares.
Oderberger Straße 35, 10435, Prenzlauer Berg | varies Tram Friedrich-Ludwif-Jahn-Sportpark| €€€€€ | bonanzacoffee.de
Words: Laura Hendricksen
Rausch Schokoladenhaus
Raush Chocolate Shop
If there was ever a place perfect for someone with a sweet tooth – and money to spend – it’s Fassbender & Rausch. Every type of chocolate imaginable is displayed on wooden shelves, in small wicker baskets, and in glass cases. The customer walks with awe into the building on a red carpet. Outstanding chocolate sculptures dot the shop: the Reichstag, the Brandenburg Gate, the Titanic, and the TV Tower among them. People with more refined tastes will enjoy the mini tarts and truffles. For those looking for a bit of fun, there are chocolate bears, football balls, and even a chocolate that looks like a photo in a picture frame. Or stick to the basics with a simple chocolate bar. It’s difficult to leave without buying a treat. In addition to the chocolate shop, there is a café and a restaurant within the building. Head on up in the elevator to have a bite to eat before having your desert from the chocolate shop below.
Charlottenstraße 60, 10117, Mitte | 11.00-20.00 | | €€€€€ | rausch.de Stadtmitte
Words: Gabrielle Archibald
Bekarei
Bakery
For the coffee lovers out there searching for a chill café, Bonanza Coffee Heroes should be paid a visit. The inside is more of a studying environment; individuals line the wall in the front room. Perhaps the free wifi has something to do with it. If you prefer to sit outside, there is a lovely courtyard hidden by plants that echoes with the laughter of some happily caffeinated people. Now, let’s talk about coffee. They have your basic café goods: pastries, cappuccinos, espressos, Americanos and your general cup of joe. They happen to roast their own coffee if that sparks an interest. Paper bags of coffee beans encircle the counter, and shelves can be found stacked with the same. Be prepared to almost walk past the joint because the store sign is small and a little difficult to read. Also, there is no menu on the wall; it is actually hidden behind bags of coffee. Try to avoid being an awkward tourist unless you want discomforting stares.
Dunckerstraße 23, 10437, Prenzlauer Berg | 7.30-18.30 | | €€€€€ | bekarei.com Prenzlauer Allee |
Words: Gabrielle Archibald
Die Eismacher
Ice Cream Shop
Located on the outskirts of Kreuzberg, this shop offers a range of strange but delicious flavours of ice cream for surprisingly low prices. Far from your usual vanilla or mint choc chip, flavours you’re likely to find include Ube, a deep purple ice cream made from Filipino sweet potatoes and coconut-lime which has huge chunks of coconut. If you’re struggling to read the flavours then the friendly staff will translate them into English and will even give you a sample of any you are interested in. However, although there are a number of hotels in which a traveller may stay, there isn’t very much else in the area. So, unless you find yourself lost or like taking long walks, it’s unlikely that you would find yourself near this shop. Nevertheless, the ice cream they sell is of a high quality and the number of flavours on offer is intriguing and original, so talking a walk out there and giving them a go would be worth the effort.
Körtestrasse 10, 10967,Kreuzberg | 12:00 - 20:00 | | €€€€€ | Südstern |
eismacher-berlin.de
Zur letzten Instanz
Traditional German restaurant
Dating back to 1621, this restaurant – the oldest in Berlin – serves up traditional German food. It’s tucked away down a surprisingly quiet alleyway, when you consider that it’s close to the manic area of Alexanderplatz. The building itself is a beautiful three story townhouse from the 13th century that sits near the courthouses, a ftting place as its name means ‘the last resort’.
The staff are effcient and laid back. With the docile beer garden adjoining the restaurant you can easily wile away an afternoon here. Just remember to book if visiting on a weekend. They serve up large German dishes – grilled pork knuckle with red cabbage and a potato dumpling proves popular. The food is hearty, but they do deliver in terms of fnesse and presentation, too. Perfectly poured beer and ice cold schnapps are the type of accompaniment this food is best enjoyed with, a formula that hasn’t needed changing for all of these years. Expect to pay around 40 euros per person with drinks.
Waisenstraße 14-16, 10179 | Mitte | zurletzteninstanz.com varies| €€€€€ |Klosterstraße |
Words: William Barber
Dicke Wirten
Traditional German restaurant
Meat lovers with a taste for culture fock to Dicke Wirtin, a traditional German pub in Charlottenburg that serves all of the usual suspects, from schnitzel to bratwurst. This small, cozy pub is very darkly lit and a frequent haunt for students at night since it often advertises cheap student deals. Alternatively, the outside terrace is open during the hot summers, if inside is too stuffy for your taste or the size of your party. Such a small pub has a big reputation, and with good reason: the food is excellent, the portions are large, and the atmosphere is cheerful. Most of the staff do not speak English so practice your “bitte schön” before lunch! Ideal for a late lunch or early dinner, Dicke Wirtin also serves up several German beers on tap or in the bottle (for prices cheaper than the Cola!) Located nearby is Kurfürstendamm (or Ku’Dam), a long stretching shopping street, as well as the Berlin Zoo.
Carmerstraße 9, 10623 | Charlottenburg | 11.00-0.00 | | €€€€€ | Savignyplatz |
dicke-wirten.de
Words: Rebecca Gilooly
Barkett
Vegan Restaurant
17€ worth of all-you-can-eat raw, healthy vegan food combined with the trek to get there puts Barkett at the top of the list for lifestyle improvement. But whether you’re vegan or not, it’s quite a struggle to find much flavour in this buffet of cauliflower rice, raw pizza and quinoa burgers. With a spinach and banana smoothie included for starters, there really isn’t too much choice and the steep price could easily go to waste if you want something a little less bland. Better options can be found, for example, at Chupenga where the combination of flavours within a burrito seem to work better. Although dessert does make up for it with poppy seed cake, chocolate dipped strawberries and fruit salad – bear in mind the menu will vary slightly each week too! The English-speaking staff are extremely helpful and friendly, and the cafe itself is decorated in an airy garden style. A little difficult to find, it is local-oriented. Czeminskistraße 10, 10829, Schöneberg| barkett.berlin Julius-Leber-Brücke| €€€€€ |
Words: Amie Pearce
Sankt Oberholz
St Oberholz Cafe
One thing you won’t ever hear people boast about in Berlin is the abundance of wifi. If you’re looking for somewhere to hangout and soak up some much needed internet, St Oberholz has exactly that. This quaint yet spacious cafe by day and bar by night provides decent wifi and plenty of upstairs seating to enjoy. Located on the busy Rosenthaler Platz square and directly opposite the tram stop, it has the perfect combination of multiple, accessible plug sockets as well as a diverse drinks menu. Tea, juices, cocktails and other alcoholic beverages are offered along with pastries, cakes and various lunch options. However, they don’t offer much else in the way of food, so perhaps bring something for yourself if you’re intending to stay until the 12am closing time! It is potentially a good place for a few drinks before heading to bigger clubs in Berlin, but the vibe is more suited for winding down. Cheaper drinks may be found elsewhere, as a fritz cola is priced at 2.90€ and prices only go up from there. It is worth a visit to St Oberholz for the atmosphere and the wifi.
Rosenthaler Platz |€€€€€ | sanktoberholz.de
Viêt Phô’ at the Dong Xuan Center Vietnamese restaurant street food
Berlin is one city that wholeheartedly accepts and embraces intercultural collaboration, and one way it does this is with its eclectic array of eateries. The city streets are lined with restaurants offering food from foreign cultures such as Mexico, Japan, Turkey and Vietnam, to name a few.
In the Lichtenburg district, travelers can fnd the Dong Xuan Center where you can fnd a market offering up delicious and fresh produce as well as the restaurant, Viet Phô. The portions are generous, and the food will cause one to have cravings again and again. It is not in a particularly obvious location, but the fun part is the random stumble-upon. The staff is friendly and accommodating, and the cooks…oh dear, they’re amazing! For the hungry traveler on a budget with an appetite for pho, the price is low for a high-quality meal. Vietnamese is the predominant language, so be prepared to do some charades for things like water. It is defnitely worth the struggle, though!
Herzbergstraße. 128-139, 10367, Lichtenberg | €€€€€ | Mon.-Fri. 9.00-22.00 M8 Herzbergstraße/Industriegebiet | vietpho.de Words: Laura Hendricksen
Burgermeister
Located underneath the U-Bahn rail tracks in Kreuzberg, this is a burger shack converted from an old public toilet. This part of town is buzzing every night of the week and people come a long way to sample these burgers. It is on a lot of tourist’s hit-lists, and as such there can be a bit of a wait for food. However, the workers give out numbers and call the customer when the burger is ready rather than leave him or her in an unforgiving queue. As soon as one walks up, there is an equal feel of anticipation from those waiting, satisfaction from those eating and despair from those who have just fnished. Combine that with the smell coming from the stand (yes, better than it used to be) and you know before you’ve tried it that it’s going to be a winner. Soft brioche bun, crunchy lettuce and onions, delicious melted cheese and expertly cooked meat of superb quality. There are a few variations involving chili, cheese and barbeque sauce. They also have a highly praised tofu burger if meat isn’t your thing. It wouldn’t be surprising if these guys branched out and soon had a chain of restaurants.
Oberbaumstraße 8, 10997, Kreuzberg | €€€€€ |
Mon.-Thurs. 11.00-3.00, Fri.-Sat. 1.00-4.00 | Schlesisches Tor | burger-meister.de Words: William Barber
A VEGETARIAN IN BERLIN
WORDS: LAURA HENDRICKSEN
People usually presuppose that Berlin (or anywhere in Germany, really) caters to everyone but the veggies, the vegans or the like. Yeah, this is not true. For the non-carnivorous traveler, food is still what’s for dinner. Sure, currywurst and bratwurst joints line the streets, but even these places have at least one vegetarian option. Try the vegetarian currywurst - it’s delicious. Once upon a time, a young, vegetarian woman was going to Berlin but feared that her “balanced” meals would consist of pommes frites “fries” and beer. Although pommes frites are surprisingly tasty with ketchup and mayonnaise, better food can be found. Look for the word vegetarische, and life will be a pretty thing. If the desire for a vegetarian/vegan restaurant is still weighing heavily on the mind, never fear. Berlin has so many options for the average veg, and all you have to do is look. Heck, you may even just stumble upon a place! The city is full of surprises. For the best tofu-burger you’ve ever had in your life, head to Burgermeister. If you love pho, head to Viêt Phô’ for the vegefed version. Maybe you like burritos, and if that’s the case, head to Burrito Baby. If you want Turkish, Mexican, Spanish or Italian food, you will fnd something. Don’t miss out on the döner culture and try out Vöner, where vegan döners are the specialty. Seriously, I’m telling you that Berliners understand the veg-life, and you won’t have to starve. That’s pretty nice, right? So, next time you have an ounce of fear that you will have to denounce your vegetarianism/veganism in order to eat in Berlin, let it go because you have nothing to worry about. You can still enjoy German food without having to crack.
