Return to Terroir

la Renaissance deS APPELLATIONS RETURN TO TERROIR

Gr and tasting Melbourne Australia – March 2011

la Renaissance deS APPELLATIONS RETURN TO TERROIR

biodynamics: farming today for all our tomorrows Melbourne Tasting – March 2011

TABLE of CONTENTS A Welcome Julian Castagna.............................................................................5 Foreword: Listening to the Land Max Allen.....................................................6 What is biodynamics?.....................................................................................8 The Preparations............................................................................................9 “Is biodynamic wine-growing a myth or a reality?” Nicolas Joly ���������������������� 12 The Charter of Quality ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 16 “So many misunderstandings about biodynamics” Nicolas Joly ����������������������20 Grand Tasting Table Plan �����������������������������������������������������������������������������26 MEMBERS

Castagna Vineyard.................................6............ 31 Cullen Wines........................................12............ 35 Jasper Hill Vineyard..............................23............ 33 Ngeringa Vineyard................................35............ 29

AUSTRIA

Meinklang............................................32............ 39 Nikolaihof............................................36............ 41 Weingut Geyerhof................................20............ 37 Weingut Schoenberger.........................49............ 43

Brazil

Camocim Estate...................................62............ 45

FRANCE

Champagne Bedel..................................2............ 77 Champagne Fleury............................... 17........... 79 Champagne Marie Courtin................... 31........... 81 Château Fonroque...............................18............ 69 Château La Grolet................................22............ 71 Château Le Puy....................................43............ 73 Château Moulin du Cadet....................34............ 75 Château Tour Grise.............................. 54........... 99 Coulée de Serrant................................. 10........... 91 Domaine André et Mireille Tissot..........53............ 83 Domaine Barmes Buecher......................1............ 47 Domaine Cazes......................................7............ 85 Domaine Delesvaux.............................. 13........... 93 Domaine de Quintaine........................ 44............ 65 Domaine de Villaine.............................56............ 67

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PAGE

AUSTRALIA

TABLE

MEMBERS

PAGE

FRANCE (cont.)

Domaine de Villeneuve.........................57...........111 Domaine du Coulet.............................. 11......... 105 Domaine du Pech................................. 39..........115 Domaine Giboulot...............................21............ 57 Domaine Josmeyer...............................24............ 49 Domaine Lafarge..................................25............ 59 Domaine Landron................................ 26........... 95 Domaine Leflaive..................................27............ 61 Domaine Les Aphillantes...................... 58......... 101 Domaine Les Bruyeres............................ 3......... 103 Domaine Les Chesnaies.......................... 8........... 89 Domaine Marcel Deiss.........................30............ 51 Domaine Nivet Galinier........................ 37........... 87 Domaine Ostertag...............................38............ 53 Domaine Pierre AndrĂŠ.......................... 40......... 109 Domaine Pierre Morey..........................41............ 63 Domaine Saint Nicolas......................... 47........... 97 Domaine Viret...................................... 59..........113 Domaine Zind Humbrecht....................61............ 55 Mas de Libian...................................... 28......... 107

Germany

Weingut A. Christmann.......................... 9..........119 Weingut Busch....................................... 4..........117 Weingut Wittmann.............................. 60..........121

ITALY

Az Agr Emidio Pepe.............................. 15......... 123 Az Agr San Fereolo............................... 48......... 129 Cascina degli Ulivi.................................. 5..........131 Foradori.............................................. 19......... 135 Loacker Tenute..................................... 29......... 125 Porta del Vento.................................... 42......... 133 Tenuta di Valgiano............................... 55..........127

New Zealand

Millton Vineyard.................................. 33..........137

SPAIN

Alvaro Palacios.................................... 14..........141 Compania de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez.... 52......... 143 Descendientes de J. Palacios................. 14......... 139

USA

Robert Sinskey Vineyard....................... 46......... 145

Guests

Felton Road......................................... 16..........151 Rippon Vineyard & Winery................... 45......... 153 Seresin................................................. 50......... 155 Sutton Grange..................................... 51......... 149

TABLE

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foreword: Listening to the land

T

Max Allen

hink about the best bottles of wine you have ever shared. The wines that have sent shivers down your spine. The wines that have made you go ‘wow’. I suspect that what made these wines truly memorable is that

they took you on a journey, back through the glass and the bottle, the barrel and vat, back in your mind’s eye to the sun and the rain that fell many years ago on a single patch of the face of the earth.

It’s this – the emotional, transformational aspect of drinking wine, the joyful evocation of terroir – that keeps me searching for new bottles to try. It’s also

the reason why I am so interested in biodynamic wines.

A rapidly growing number of the world’s best winegrowers, from Alsace to Australia, have enthusiastically adopted biodynamics in their vineyards because they believe it helps them produce wines that express a more authentic, more beautiful sense of place in the glass.

Just look at what’s happened to the wines of Cullen, in Margaret River.

Before Vanya Cullen converted all of her family vineyard to biodynamics in the early years of the last decade, the vineyard was certified organic and the wines were very good examples of Margaret River chardonnay, cabernet, et al.

So why did she go that extra step?

“I was attracted by the holistic nature of biodynamics,” says Vanya, “There was a mystery and an allure that was irresistible. So we did a trial, applying the biodynamic preps on our chardonnay, and found that the fruit was healthier and the natural fermentations cleaner.

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“Now, seven years on, the grapes have a liveliness of taste; more interesting and individual wines are the outcome. They are, if you like, real wines of terroir.”

Nicolas Joly, founder of the Return to Terroir group, uses a musical analogy for the liveliness and personality found in so many biodynamic wines. “Think,” he says, “of the vineyard as a musical instrument, the winegrower as a musician and biodynamics as the ‘acoustic’: the finest instrument played by the finest musician will produce beautiful music – but that music will be all the more profound if it is heard in the best possible setting.”

Max Allen writes about wine for The Weekend Australian Magazine and Gourmet Traveller (where some of this text first appeared).

He also publishes a website about biodynamics in Australian vineyards called www.redwhiteandgreen.com.au and is the author of The Future Makers - Australian Wines for the 21st Century.

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What is BIODYNAMICS?

B

iodynamics was first detailed in a series of agricultural lectures given

by Rudolf Steiner in 1924 and is now internationally recognised as a leading organic method working across all agricultural systems.

Steiner’s agricultural lectures were a response to farmers’ reports of increased degeneration in seed strains, cultivated plants and animal health.

The biodynamic method he outlined involves the use of specially developed preparations (500–508) that assist in connecting the whole farm unit with the dynamic rhythms of the earth and atmosphere and it is these preparations that form the foundation of biodynamic practice today. Instead of just acting on the physical, biodynamics goes one step further in both working with the living soil and the invisible energies of nature.

Biodynamics recognises that great wine starts in the vineyard, not the cellar, and that a vigneron must understand his soil and site before he can make great wine.

Wine producers worldwide strive for their wine to have a sense of place, and biodynamics through this connection with this world of energies helps to dramatically increase the possibility of the wine being both unique and individual, of having a sense of place. This individuality is often called terroir.

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The PREPARATIONS Preparation 500 – Horn Manure The Horn Manure Preparation is the most well-known of the biodynamic preparations. It is made from cow manure placed in a horn from a lactating cow, buried in fertile soil over winter, producing by spring time, a sweet smelling humus-like colloidal substance. This is applied in minute quantities, after being dynamised in water for one hour, and spread in droplet form on the soil in the afternoon.

It will help build soil structure and tilth, it works well with calcium and helps make humus which attracts earthworms and also rhizobia, which increases nodulation on plant roots. Preparation 500 causes soil depth to increase; roots to go deeper and grow more luxuriantly; and most importantly, water is held like in a sponge in the humus materials created. It is an effective solution for Australia’s water and salinity problems. Biodynamic farms use 25% –50% less water than their neighbours working conventionally!

Preparation 501 – Horn Silica The Horn Silica Preparation is made from finely ground quartz crystal and buried in cow horns in fertile soil for all of the summer months. It works in the atmosphere and with both the silica and light forces. Only the tiniest amount is required. It is dynamised for one hour and sprayed as a fine mist into the air at first light. This amazing preparation works with photosynthesis helping the plant increase and preserve its sugar sap levels so that any excess sugar can be sent to the roots as root exudates, to feed the bacteria and fungi that often form a symbiotic relationship with the plant. By keeping the sugar sap levels high, plants are more resistant to insect attack and disease.

If conditions are extremely wet and prone to fungal disease, 501, often in conjunction Preparation 508 – equisetum, can help restore the balance.

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The 501 preparation also helps with the dry matter content of the fruit, increasing flavour, colour, and keeping qualities and has the ability to lift the Baume levels up to one full point within a very short time.

The Compost Preparations These are made up of various flowers and animal parts treated in very specific ways – they work as a stimulant to help attract trace elements, specific bacteria and fungi in the soil. Their purpose is to impregnate the compost heap or fermenting brew with living forces helping the breakdown of organic matter. When compost, or other fermented product made with the compost preparations, is added or sprayed on the soil, it has the capacity to restore the vitality of the soils and make the soil more sensitive and will also help reconnect to the planetary movements within our cosmos.

Preparation 502 – Yarrow Yarrow flowers placed in a stag’s bladder. Can stimulate potassium, silica and selenium, activating bacteria and help to combine sulphur with other substances. Helps remedy weaknesses in flowering and fruiting and strengthens the plant against insect attack.

Preparation 503 – Chamomile Chamomile flowers placed in the small intestines of a cow. Helps retain nitrogen, calcium and sulphur and stimulates manganese and boron.

Preparation 504 – Stinging Nettle Nettle is buried without any animal sheath. Helps proper decomposition, aids chlorophyll formation and stimulates iron, potassium, calcium, magnesium and sulphur bacteria activity in the soil.

Preparation 505 – Oak Bark Oak Bark placed in a cow skull and in water over winter. Helps restore balance when water activity is working too strongly, such as after a lot of

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rain or at full moon. Can help protect against fungal diseases and can help calcium and phosphorus in the soil

Preparation 506 – Dandelion Dandelion placed in a cow’s mesentery. Stimulates the potassium, silica bacteria and fungi in the soil, to enable each to work more effectively.

Can help increase flowering and filling of fruit out to tips. Can stimulate the magnesium, boron and selenium soil activity.

Preparation 507 – Valerian A tincture made of Valerian flowers. Stimulates the phosphorus process and mobilises the phosphorus-activating bacteria in the soil, as well as selenium and magnesium. Prevents the flowering process becoming excessive. Forms a warm blanket around a compost heap. If sprayed onto blossoms in spring it can provide protection against late frost.

Preparation 508 – Equisetum/Casuarina As Equisetum is seen as a noxious weed in Australia, Casuarina has been found to be a good substitute. Preparation 508 works with the water balance in the atmosphere as a fresh tea and is used to prevent and stop fungal growth, sooty mould and tightens plants against becoming soft and open to mildew infection. Fermented 508 works in the soil to stimulate the growth of beneficial fungi and large hyphae and is applied with the afternoon soil sprays.

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tasting notes Genesis 2008

La Chiave 2008

Un Segreto 2008

Allegro 2009

IngĂŠnue 2008

Aqua Santa NV

TABLE 6

au s t r a L I A

Castagna Vineyard The Castagna Vineyard is situated at an altitude of 500m five-and-a-half kilometres outside the historic town of Beechworth in north-east Victoria, high in the foothills of the Australian Alps. Our with a predominance of quartz particles on a base of clay. The climate is distinctly Mediterranean with hot days and cool nights during the important part of the growing season. All wine is made from estate-grown fruit.

We make wines of terroir. Terroir is not only about soil but the whole eco-

BEECHWOR T H

soil mainly consists of decomposed granitic-loam

system which consists of light, heat, prevailing winds, slope of the land, length of the season and, most importantly, the organisms living and working in the soil – about a billion organisms per gram of soil. It is these micro-organisms which link the soil to the roots of the vine, strengthening and imprinting that particular soil’s authentic character. The vineyard is hand-pruned and the fruit is hand-picked. We crop at a little less than two tons per acre. The winemaking is very traditional using only our own vineyard’s indigenous yeast, and that, combined with minimal interference, is the key to achieving vitality and complexity. Elevage varies between 18–20 months using only the very best, tight-grain French oak available, about half of which is new each year.

Our intention is to make, as simply as possible, wine which is an expression of the place where it is grown. The wines of Castagna are multi-awarded and are at the forefront of the new Australia. » Biodynamic since 1997

Julian and Carolann Castagna | Castagna Vineyard 88 Ressom Lane, PO Box 73, Beechworth, Victoria 3747, Australia Tel: +61 (0) 3 5728 2888 | Fax: +61(0) 3 5728 2898 Email: castagna@enigma.com.au | Web: www.castagna.com.au

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tasting notes Graupert Pinot Gris 2009

Juhfark 2009

Konkret 2008

Zweigelt 2009

Hárslevelü 2009

Grüner Veltliner 2009

TABLE 32

au s t r I A

Meinklang Meinklang is a lively farm comprising the three typical fields: wine growing, fruit and agriculture. Every one of the family members is specialised in farming his part. Angela and estate. Located in Burgenland, at the east point of Austria, the imposing reed belt of the neighbouring national park seems to disappear into the Pannonian steppe as vineyards meet up with the never ending horizon. It is here that the Michlits family

burgenland

Werner Michlits are in charge of the wine

cultivates 55ha of vineyards interspersed amongst the small ponds of the steppe in the dry continental climate. Unique in Austrian wine country is the estate’s own Angus cattle herd. It’s the farm’s source for its own nutritious, organic dung for lively soils in the vineyards. » Organic vineyard since 1995 » Biodynamic vineyard since 2005

Werner Michlits | Meinklang Hauptstraße 86. A-7152 Pamhagen, Austria Tel: +43 (0) 21 74 21 68 | Fax: +43 (0) 21 74 21 68 Email: office@meinklang.at | Web: www.meinklang.at

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tasting notes AOC Cornas Billes Noires 2009

AOC Cornas Terrasses du Serre 2009

AOC Cornas Brise Cailloux 2008

TABLE 11

FR A N C E

Domaine du Coulet The winery has been managed by Matthieu Barret since 1999, after he took over from his grandfather. It has been run using organic agriculture since 2001 property is 13ha, which corresponds to 10% of the appellation Cornas.

The vineyard is composed of one single plot covering an entire side of the

R hÔne

and biodynamics since 2002. The total

mountain at the extreme north of the appellation, mostly organised in terraces which enable the cultivation of the grounds on such steep slopes.

The exposures are various, with a majority facing the east. The granite soils are very degraded and called ‘gores’ and are very appreciated by the syrah, the only grape of Cornas. The vines were first planted in 1920, with another two main series of plantings in 1970 and 1980 by Matthieu’s grandfather.

The cuvees are : » AOC Cornas “Les Billes Noires” (top of the mountainside) » AOC Cornas “Les Terrasses du Serre” (hot slopes) » AOC Cornas “ Brises Cailloux “ (base of the mountain and young vines) » AOC Côtes du Rhône “No Wine’s Land” 100% Syrah The general philosophy of the winery is to make the most natural wines expressing as best as possible the strong and typical minerality of our terroir. » AOC Cornas, Côtes du Rhône » Organic vineyard since 2000, Biodynamic vineyard since 2001

Matthieu Barret | Domaine du Coulet Le Coulet 43 Rue du Ruisseau 07130 Cornas, France Tel: +33 (0) 4 75 80 08 25 | Email: domaineducoulet@tele2.fr Web: www.domaineducoulet.voila.net

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tasting notes Wittmann 100 ‘Hugel’ Riesling 2009

Wittmann Estate Riesling 2008

Wittmann Pinot Gris 2009

Wittmann Westhofener Silvaner 2008

Wittmann Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses Gewachs 2009

Wittmann Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewachs 2009

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G E R M A N Y

Weingut Wit tmann Since 1663 the Wittmanns have been wine growers in the town of Westhofen, in the southern part of the Rheinhessen appellation. Over centuries this tradition Guenter and Elisabeth Wittmann and their son Philipp and his wife Eva divide the task of running the 25ha estate.

Riesling is the dominant grape of choice but also the pinot varietals (pinot blanc, pinot gris) and silvaner have a long tradition in Westhofen.

Our vineyards have been organically cultivated for more than 18 years.

The vines root deep in the living system of the soil which strengthens the

R heinhe ssen

has led to the estate in its current form.

expression of terroir in our wines. Intensive hand craftsmanship in the tending of the vineyards achieves the highest possible grape quality.

Only the very best wines bear the names of the top sites of Westhofen: Aulerde, Kirchspiel and Morstein. The soils in these sites are mainly marl interspersed with limestone.

The carefully pressed must is fermented by the natural yeasts in wooden casks in our large vaulted cellar. The slow fermentation and maturation in the constantly cool cellar conserves the natural aromas. Thus the Wittmann wines come to have their own expression which is at once unmistakable and new every year. Âť Organic Vineyard since 1990 Âť Biodynamic Vineyard since 2003

Philipp Wittmann | Weingut Wittman MainzerstraBe 19, 67593 Westhofen, Germany Tel: +49 (0) 6 244 90 50 36 | Fax: +49 (0) 6 244 55 78 Email: info@wittmannweingut.com | Web: www.weingut-wittmann.de

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tasting notes Foradori 2008 Teroldego Rotaliano DOC

Granato 2007 Vigneti delle Dolomiti Teroldego

Myrto 2009 Vigneti delle Dolomiti Manzoni Bianco

Nosiola Fontanasanta 2009 Vigneti delle Dolomiti Nosiola

TABLE 19

I TA LY

Foradori Teroldego is a mountain grape variety. Its roots grow deep in the granitic, limestone rocks of the Campo Rotaliano, a small plain embedded between the steep rock faces of Trentino (North its people, of the Dolomites.

Elisabetta Foradori ‘adopts’ this old variety and leads it back to the original expression of its character.

T R EN T INO

Italy). It is the intense expression of its land, of

At the heart of the work carried out in the last twenty years in the vineyard is the recovery of this variety’s biodiversity.

In this way the remarkable mineral, floral and spiced character of the teroldego can express itself fully, sustained by a natural viticulture that is inspired by the principles of biodynamic agriculture.

On an area covering 29ha, Foradori produces two wines that are two different expressions of the same variety: Granato e Foradori

Elisabetta Foradori | Foradori Via Damiano Chiesa, 1, 38017 Mezzolombardo TN, Italy Tel: +39 (0) 4 61 60 10 46 | Fax: +39 (0) 4 61 60 34 47 Email: elisabetta@elisabettaforadori.com | Web: www.elisabettaforadori.com

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tasting notes Clos de Ste. Anne Chardonnay 2009

Clos de Ste. Anne Pinot Noir 2009

Clos de Ste. Anne Syrah 2009

Te Arai Chenin Blanc 2009

Opou Chardonnay 2008

Riverpoint Viognier 2009

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In 1983 James and Annie Millton established their 20ha wine domain

NEW ZEAL AND

The Millton Vineyard on the banks of the Te Arai River near Manutuke where the early in 1871. This region is situated on the east coast of the North Island of New Zealand in the winegrowing appellation of Gisborne. The white wine vineyards are planted with chardonnay, chenin blanc and viognier. The red wine vineyards are planted with merlot, malbec and pinot noir.

GISBOR NE

settlers first planted grapevines

Since the beginning, all wines have been produced from biodynamically grown grapes and bottled on the property, making this company still the only complete biodynamic wine domain in New Zealand.

Our country, the land and its people are still very young, practising agriculture for only 200 years. Our soils are young, fresh and fertile and, while still in their juvenile state, we see quite clearly the biodynamic activities offering a vitality and balance to the plants and resulting wines.

The Millton Vineyards have been grandstanded into being New Zealand’s leading organic winegrower while this estate’s preference is for quality and sensitive wine production centred on traditional technique.

There are presently only seven certified organic wine producers in this country with Millton being the only grower with their own cellars and maturation facilities. Âť Biodynamic vineyard since 1984

James and Annie Millton | The Millton Vineyards Papatu Rd Manutuke, Po Box 66 Manutuke Poverty Bay, New Zealand Tel: +64 (0) 6 862 86 80 | Fax: +64 (0) 6 862 88 69 Email: james@millton.co.nz | Web : www.millton.co.nz

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tasting notes Telmo Rodriguez ‘Lanzaga’ Tempranillo (Rioja)

Telmo Rodriguez ‘Altos de Lanzaga’ Tempranillo (Rioja)

Telmo Rodriguez ‘M2 de Matallana’ Tempranillo (Ribera dek Duero)

Telmo Rodriguez ‘Matallana’ Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero)

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S PA I N

Compañia de vinos telmo rodriguez Our company was founded in 1994 with the dream of rediscovering and ‘rescuing’ some of the real terroirs of Spain. We work today in seven different denominaciones, with numerous enables us to indulge our real passion: owning and working within some of the nicest vineyards.

We decided to keep to small sites for our top wines. In those sites we knew that what would really make a difference would be the way we chose to cultivate the vines.

The rioja alavesa vines that produce Altos de Lanzaga had been handed down from father to son to grandson, and had been cultivated in a very rustic way before we bought them: simply pruned and dusted from time to time with a bit of sulphur or copper. The result was a very balanced fruit

r ioja and ot her s

different growers. The success of this project

with delicious flavour. We found the principles of biodynamic viticulture very interesting, particularly perhaps, because we live in a country that has in some ways destroyed the natural balance of its agriculture.

We believe that our vineyards will flourish under biodynamic methods, and rediscover their roots and only then will we produce wines that are truly good. Today, our grapes are carefully harvested and vinified in a minimalist way, with the addition of neither yeasts nor bacteria, and no fining, filtration or cold treatment. » D O Ribera del Duero, Organic » Biodynamic vineyard since 1998

Telmo Rodriguez | Compañia de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez Siete infantes de Lara 5, Oficina 1, 26006 Logrono Spain Tel: +34 941 511 128 | Fax: +34 941 511 131 Email: b.anton@telmorodriguez.com | Web: www.telmorodriguez.com

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tasting notes Pinot Gris, Los Carneros, 2009

Abraxas, Vin de Terroir, Scintilla Sonoma Vineyard, 2009

Pinot Noir, Three Amigos Vineyard, Los Carneros, Napa Valley, 2007

Pinot Noir, Vandal Vineyard, Los Carneros, Napa Valley, 2007

Pinot Noir, Four Vineyards, Los Carneros, Napa Valley, 2007

Marcien, A Proprietary Red, Napa Valley, 2006

TABLE 46

U SA

Robert Sinskey Vineyard RSV pursues purity from dirt to bottle, crafting inimitable wines that capture the unique relationship of vine and vineyard. Saveur magazine wrote that Sinskey has “seen the future of wine” organically and biodynamically, growing beautifully expressive, healthy fruit that needs little in the way of cellar cosmetics on its journey to the dinner table. Happily and quite intentionally, this pursuit of purity results in wines of understated elegance

C AR NEROS

in that they farm all two hundred of their acres

that enhance rather than encumber cuisine.

All of RSV’s fruit grows on their own carefully tended land, spread over five vineyards in Carneros and one surrounding the redwood and local stone winery on the Silverado Trail in the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley. RSV’s Carneros vineyards are dominated by pinot noir, from which they craft five elegant and expressive wines including three single-vineyard designates.

From white grapes, RSV produces a beautifully clean pinot blanc and a blend of Alsatian varietals called abraxas. From red grapes, in addition to pinot noir, Sinskey makes several Bordeaux-inspired bottlings, including merlot, cabernet franc, and cabernet sauvignon, often in the very same bottle; and a few small-production gems rarely seen outside of the tasting room, including their delicious pink Vin Gris of pinot noir. » Organic Vineyard since 1991

Robert Sinskey | Robert Sinskey Vineyards 6320 Silverado Trail, Napa California, 94558, USA Tel: +1 707 944 9090 | Email: rsv@robertsinskey.com Web: www.robertsinskey.com

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