Treasna na dTonnta 68 Winter 2024

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Irish Sea Kayaking Association Issue 68 Winter 2024

Treasna na dTonnta

i

Treasna na dTonnta 68

ii

Winter 2024

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Treasna na dTonnta

Issue 68 October 2024 Contents Editorial . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 ISKA News: Beth Reed-Colohan ISKA Chairperson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Review Review: ‘How to Speak Whale’ by Tom Mustill, Sue Honan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Circumnavigation: Two Halves of a Whole by Ariel Gazarian. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Around Quadra in a Day, Rosie O’Sullivan and Vincent Parenteau. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Kit and Kaboodle The Masik, John Murray. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Most Useful Pieces of Kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Technique Fitness On and Off the Water, Charlie Daly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Stay Salty Greenland Rolling World Tour, Robin Kavanagh and Niall O’Donovan . . 52 Troubled Waters ‘Inishtrouble’ Sue Honan and Mick Carroll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Contributors and Guidelines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Cover and inside cover photos: Ariel Gazarian Back cover photo: Starling murmuration at Lough Ennel. Caroline Schofield

1

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Editorial

Welcome to Treasna na dTonnta 68

Many thanks to everyone who contributed photos and articles and gave of their time to make this issue happen.

This year, we have trip reports from Ariel Gazarian, who, as of this writing, is still making her way around Ireland, and Rosie O’Sullivan, who paddled around Quadra Island in British Columbia, Canada, with French Canadian sea kayaker Vincent Parenteau.

The Troubled Waters section is back with a first-hand account of an RNLI rescue by Sue Honan following an injury sustained on Inishtrahull.

While recovering, Sue wrote a review of How to Speak Whale, A Voyage into the Future of Animal Communication By Tom Mustill.

John Murray contributed an in-depth guide to the Masik, a cockpit modification invented by indigenous Greenland kayakers.

Niall O’Donovan and Robin Kavanagh share their experience on a Greenland rolling clinic, learning to master just two of the 35 Greenland-style rolls.

2

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Beth Reed-Colohan has all your ISKA news.

From Ikea bags to throw tows and pee clothes, we have a list of useful pieces of kit recommended by ISKA paddlers.

This year’s Technique section is all about fitness. Whether you’re going for a record, trying to prevent or come back from an injury, or just looking for ways to stay active while this shocking weather keeps you ashore, we have you covered with top tips from Jon Hynes, David Horkan, Freya Hoffmeister, and John Willacy.

This edition was co-edited by Sue Honan and Adam May. It never would have come together without their continued support and involvement.

Fair winds and following seas, Charlie Daly

3

Copper Coast Sea Kayaking CopperCoast CoastSea SeaKayaking Kayaking Copper Coach: Craig Keyworth Coach: Craig Keyworth Coach: Craig Keyworth www.coppercoastseakayaking.ie www.coppercoastseakayaking.ie www.coppercoastseakayaking.ie

Photos: Martin O’Treasaigh

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

ISKA NEWS

Welcome to the Irish Sea Kayaking Association’s 2024 Symposium in Mulranny Co. Mayo. This is the 2nd time the Symposium has been held in Mulranny. ISKA would like to thank Mulranny Park hotel for hosting us this year, also the organisers Fiona Trahe, Pat Conway, Rob Scanlon and everyone else who helped to make it happen this year.

Early April Adrian Harkin Set up a fundraising event ‘Summittosea4MND’ kayaking around Ireland and hiking the highest summits in each county for the Irish Motor Neurone Disease Association, congratulations to all who took part. Former chair Chris McDaid & Steve Smith visited Adrian in December to present him with an ornamental paddle expertly sculpted by Valli Schafer & Gerry Brannigan in recognition of his contribution to ISKA & sea kayaking in Ireland. Sadly Adrian passed away in early June, he will be missed by the sea kayaking community, may he Rest in Peace.

Our first meet of the year at Streamstown was very special as all funds raised from the Feast were donated to Summit to Sea for MND

8

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

As usual our member’s did not disappoint raising a total of €2,615.

We would like to thank Chris and Tatiana at Clifden Eco beach for hosting us again this year, Martin Duffy for holding a L3 training session, Tony Walsh for organising the tents and extra stuff, Peter Hennessen and Dave Glasgow for assisting, and not forgetting out new chefs Sharon McGovern and Beth Colohan who served up a great Feast. Schull meet soon followed after in mid-May organised by Pat Conway, with some serious paddling—two 40km paddles on both days, Fastnet lighthouse was visited by the members, there was also an ISKA subsidised L4 training course that weekend provided by Jon Hynes. Thanks go out to Schull coast guard who assisted a paddler.

The weather gods didn’t play ball and the Clare meet in June had to be cancelled. July’s meet went ahead with Gerry Brannigan and Valli Schafer hosting it up in Culdaff, Co Donegal some exploring of the coast and Rock hopping was achieved.

August’s meet organised by Joe Rogan at Port Muck, Co. Antrim was a great success, where paddlers explored the Gobbins cliffs. At the time of writing, September’s meet organised by Rob Scanlon, at Carlingford lough, Co. Down hopefully will go ahead and some good days paddling will be had.

There were several subsidised L3 Explorer Award, Level 4 Adventure Award and Incident Management training weekends organised by Sue Honan. ISKA is committed to promoting the development of its members’ paddling skills and is grateful to the providers who participate in this scheme.

Treasna na dTonnta would not be produced without the contributions of its members. ISKA congratulates new editor Charlie Daly on his first publication for ISKA. TnadT is designed by Adam May who always makes us look good. Thank you Adam!

9

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

ISKA is over 40 years old and relies on a voluntary committee to ensure it is run for the benefit of its members. The voluntary committee is essential for organising the Symposium, monthly meets and training courses. As it currently stands there will be committee vacancies after the Symposium. It is crucial that these positions are filled. If you are interested in stepping up and making yourself available then contact the committee at iskacommittee@gmail.com Beth Reed-Colohan ISKA Chairperson.

Photo: Martin O’Treasaigh 10

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Review

How to Speak Whale, A Voyage into the Future of Animal Communication Sue Honan Author Tom Mustill. Published by William Collins. ISBN 978-0-00836342-0

While recovering from an Achilles tendon tear I have had plenty of time to read. One book that captivated me was wildlife filmmaker Tim Mustill’s How to Speak Whale, A Voyage into the Future of Animal Communication.

His deep dive into the current state of research into interspecies communication between humans and cetaceans was triggered by a humpback whale breaching onto his and a friend’s double kayak in 2015, footage of which went viral.

His book traces the work that dedicated scientists and citizen scientists have done to interpret the songs and clicks of our cetacean cousins. But it is more than that, it is a humane and passionate call to understand that other sentient beings living in our oceans have communication and culture. That we are on the cusp of interpreting the communications between these beings. The big question is are we ready for what they might say?

11

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

A recent article by Rowan Hooper in New Scientist in its Future Chronicles section builds on Mustill’s book to imagine a near future (2030s) when machine learning enables us to communicate with Sperm whales, leading to whales holding an honorary position at the UN. Mustill explains that most research has centred on sperm whale communication. Thanks to painstaking work of whale researchers recently combined with machine learning, we know that sperm whales have a phonetic alphabet based on 18 patterns of clicks known as Codas.

12

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

The term ‘language’ is a controversial word between biologists, linguists and non-academics and Mustill spends a fascinating chapter, ‘The Search for Animal Language’, on this topic, giving credit to the many scientists whose research with a myriad of other animals helps to clarify this term.

In another chapter titled ‘A song in the Ocean’, he interviews one of these scientists, sadly since deceased, Dr. Roger Payne. His work on whale song in the 60s and 70s and his release of the platinum selling album The songs of the Humpback Whale led to the ban on whale hunting in the US. These are just two chapters; the others are just as captivating. He covers cutting edge research on interspecies communication using robotic fish, huge investment by tech companies, leaving us excited for the future use of AI for the good of the natural world and more.

My cynicism about big tech was moderated somewhat by what certain tech entrepreneurs are doing for conservation.

Along the way we learn about a website https://happywhale.com/ home where people can upload photos of whales they see and the organisation identifies them if possible and then enables you to track the whale you have seen through other users’ reports.

This book changes everything about how we perceive cetaceans. Are we ready to listen?

How to Speak Whale, A Voyage into the Future of Animal Communication.

By Tom Mustill.

Published by William Collins an imprint of Harper Collins.

ISBN 978-0-00836342-0

13

Discovery, Peer & Explorer award training and assessments Rolling clinics River skills training & assessments

087-9177386 @caraghoutdoors

Kayaks & Camping Kit Suppliers



Rebel Kayaks



Aquarius Kayaks



Reed Chillcheater



East Pole Paddles



Gearlab Outdoors Paddles



Robens Camping

+353 (0)87 418 5840

info@adventurekit.ie

TWO H Ireland Circumnavigation

Ariel Gazarian is currently on her way around Ireland. Here she gives a brief insight into her expedition. Ariel is the guest speaker at the 2024 ISKA symposium.

HALVES

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

...every quarter there’s something... ...my paddle experience vs. outdoor living...

Here lives peace on Great Blasket Island and a feeling of fullness. I wish I could stay longer but I have a good weather window tomorrow for the exposed cliffs on the north side of Dingle peninsula. Paddling on the South and West coast is like a game of chess, you need to plan your move several days ahead in order to set yourself up for the window for committed stretches and crossings when you’re unable to land.

I’m learning more about tactical paddling in terms of a multi-month expedition.

I zipped open my tent this morning and saw the most beautiful white sand and morning light glimmering through the blue barrel of crashing waves. In this lighting of the sea you can also see the silhouettes of seals swimming close to shore, and then their heads pop up as they look at me. They haul up on the beach by the hundred here. The men who I met yesterday came down to say good morning and give me a kiwi, tomato puree and a book, Letters from Great Blasket Island, as a gift. We are the only ones here along with the cafe owner. One of them, Simon grew

18

Ariel and friends on Great Blasket Island.

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

up on this island, and now lives on the mainland and the other, Sasha is from France, who now lives in Sweden, they’re both in their 30’s.

I packed my little rucksack to walk about 13km (8 miles) of the island.

It’s good for this flare-up of sciatica to use my legs and I wanted to see the island in its clear skies. It was peaceful and quiet to wander down the island’s long skinny shape to the very end where you’re looking out at the other cone-shaped islands. I ate my sandwich, looking out to sea. Simon told me that Paul, who is one of the 4 island residents, was coming back from the mainland for the day to do a food shop and to come over to his house for tea later. He lives in a one-room cottage that was refurbished from one of the ruins and we had tea by candlelight.

There is no electricity on the island. He told us many stories of his life and living here for most of it, and he and Simon got to catch up once again after not seeing each other for some time. They were very interested in my trip and Paul took a photo with me to send to his daughter. Simon said they now refer to me as ‘an cailín deas óg’, the lovely young girl. I made the walk across the fields back down to the beach in my wind protected spot. Now I am listening to the seals make their lamenting sounds from my tent.”

Every day is unique and dense, and full of the greatest feelings of achievement. I have dreamt of this trip for years, and to be here - now living it, is an indescribable feeling. Now, as I write this, on September 1st, it is day 80 of the expedition and I am just over three-quarters and 1,134.5km (705 miles) of the way around.

I love living and being back in Ireland, they just can’t keep me away. I moved here in 2019 for a year, and Covid meant my visa was extended for almost an extra year. Since then, I have been coming back in the autumn and spring to teach swing dance in Dublin, paddle the coast, and enjoy life. The whole reason behind me wanting to do this trip

20

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

was to be out on an expedition, see the incredible coastline, and to take my time to really experience anything that comes my way. I have been trying to get in and out of as many beautiful areas as possible and because I have almost no time limit, it has meant that when the weather and body issues come, I can take the time to have fun and rest on land.

I have met so many lovely people, whether they are legendary paddlers, residents of tiny islands or those who I haven’t seen for several years.

The decision to start and finish in Dublin was intentional. As this is my home for half of the year, all of my friends in my dance community are here. I arrived back in Dublin a month before my start of June 15th so that I would have the time to finish my planning and get all the last little bits of gear I needed. I also knew that, although you can train for a trip like this, the true test is just going out and doing it. So on my way down the east coast, I would have the time to settle into my systems, my body would embrace the new normal, and I would do longer crossings to prepare for the finger bays.

It has been the windiest August since 1982. The weather has slowed me down significantly but this doesn’t bother me. I don’t see it as bad weather, and that way, there’s no negativity held in my head for it. Part of keeping my mental attitude strong is by seeing myself as a guest of the weather and sea. I felt this strongly on the west coast when I was stuck just before Slyne Head by Force 5 and 6 headwinds and a 3-metre swell . So instead of fighting through it or waiting, I adapted by going back to the east coast to start going counterclockwise instead. This was another lesson in tactical paddling, and at the end of the day, the goal is to paddle around Ireland, in whatever direction that may be.

When I committed to this trip a year and a half ago, I knew I would be doing it solo which has its pros and cons, but I have found many more pros for me personally. I think if I had found the right person to

21

Photo: Arial Gazarian

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

go with I would have enjoyed that but sometimes I feel that if I wait for someone to go with, then I’ll never go. I have found freedom in choosing every move I make, and I’m able to do what I’d like without having to compromise with someone else. Stopping to adjust gear or eat a snack, going into caves and taking time to explore, finding the one flat spot for my tent and meeting people has been very easy as well. I’m a quiet paddler as well. Being on the water alone is my “me” time and it almost feels like I paddle in a meditative state. I am rarely lonely and have no shortage of socialization with people on the beach and with those who invite me into their home. But on the other hand, all of the decision making is exhausting. There is no one to rely on to pick lines through reefs and navigate while on the water, or look at forecasts and make a plan with. It is a constant state of vigilance on the water, making risk management decisions, and at the end of the day, I land on the beach and the job isn’t done until I’ve pulled the boat up, set up my tent and cooked myself dinner. When I’m exhausted, hungry or frustrated, most of the time there is no one there to make me a cup of tea, or help me pull my boat up the beach at the extensive low tide. And when there is, I thank them with kindness and stories. Sleeping in a soft bed has never been so appreciated on this trip.

Here is what an average day might look depending on weather, sea state and more: 7:00

Wake up, brush teeth, shake up instant coffee and water in a small water bottle, start eating leftover dinner for breakfast, check the weather again. Change into land clothes, make sandwiches for lunch, pack up everything in the tent, transfer to Ikea bags, take down tent.

8:30

Trolley boat to the water’s edge, bring bags down, pack boat, refill snacks in day hatch and water in bladder, call coast

24

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

guard telling them my plan, get changed into base layers, put on drysuit and other kit, collapse and strap on trolley, put on sun cream, start Garmin tracker, get on the water.

9:30-17:00 Paddle, have floating snacks, get excited, get bored, day dream, have lunch, post on my instagram/facebook story so that people know I’m alive and well, drink more cold coffee from small water bottle, sing out loud to the sea, have second lunch, enjoy the scenery, focus on navigating, react to swell and listen for breaking waves, stop for a wee, stretch shoulders and wrists, think about what a journey this is, watch my camp spot come closer, land, turn off Garmin, it usually says 24- 40km (15-25 miles).

17:00

Put together the trolley, bring the boat up the beach, take off drysuit, change into land clothes, unpack into bags, drink a lot of water, set up tent, set up sleeping pad, pillow, and sleeping bag, make dinner, relax, check weather and charts, make a plan of a minimum and maximum distance for tomorrow, change into sleep clothes, message friends or family, go to sleep.

This can vary depending on if I am staying with someone and in that case, I find a place to stash the boat for the night, and bring what I need for the night with me.

At the end of the day, I would rather be doing nothing else than this adventure. I also wouldn’t be here without the kindness and guidance of so many around the country, especially Steve Smith in Northern Ireland. I am never short of support and encouragement from paddlers and friends here, as well as my friends and family in the states and around the world. It has been a total joy.

25

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Around Quadra in a day!

Child of the World Rosie O’Sullivan and French Canadian Vincent Parenteau are sea kayak guides working in British Columbia, Canada. They took a short break from work one day.

Quadra Island is part of the Discovery Islands Chain, on the east coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia. The tide splits at the top of Vancouver Island and meets south of Quadra at Mitlenatch.

Quadra is famous for the Okisollo tidal wave and the Surge Narrows tidal rapid. In short, there is a lot to consider when ‘going around Quadra in a day’. In addition, circumnavigating Quadra Island is approximately 100km of paddling.

28 Quadra Cove. Photo: Rosie O’Sullivan

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

We decided that we wanted to attempt it in a day. The most either of us had paddled in a day was 50km. We wanted to see how far we could ‘push it’, what we were capable of both physically and mentally.

In our minds it made sense to go hard for a day, day and a half leaving more rest days available. At 5am, after 10 days of work and three and half hours of sleep, we set off from Quathiaski Cove! Both excited and nervous of what we would encounter along the way.

On the way to Seymour, we shared our trippy dolphin stories. Not long after, 3 Pacific white-sided dolphins, swam beside us, in front of us and under us, guiding us towards Seymour. We took it as a good omen of things to come…

We arrived at Seymour Narrows at slack, the most formidable place, even for those in motorised boats. Max flow is 16 knots!

Seymour is best known for the Ripple Rock explosion in 1958, the largest non-nuclear explosion in peacetime. Residents of the nearby Campbell River were so terrified that they waited in their boats in their driveways. We portaged around Maud island at the back using a causeway that was created for the Ripple Rock explosion. Even at slack, Seymour was an intimidating place to paddle — massive non boiling whirlpools, strange currents, and whitecaps breaking mid channel.We noticed a couple of boats passed us heading through the channel then nothing for a long time. We wondered if we had got the timings wrong? Why were there so few boats?

We had our first land break just after Granite Point, after 7.5 hours of paddling, mainly to refill our buoyancy aid snacks. We didn’t want to delay as Oki was hanging over us, the next big crux. We arrived at Oki lower rapid, one hour 15 after slack. Visibly confused and very underwhelmed, I turned to Vince and asked him, ‘Is this it?’ It should have been running at 4 knots at this stage. We proceeded to the upper

29

Treasna na dTonnta 68

30

Winter 2024

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

rapids. We took a line on the far right through a small standing wave.

There was a wave train running centre right, it looked ok but we were worried about whirlpools. Distracted at the bottom of the standing wave we chatted, I felt my kayak start to get sucked into a whirlpool and saw it develop underneath me. The whirlpool followed me and then I got out of its path. We chuckled over it and continued on our way.

We bumped into one of colleagues from our sister company running a day trip. He asked where we came from and we replied Q Cove! He asked where we were headed and we replied Q Cove! I don’t think it registered that we had come through Seymour and Oki and we were on the way to Surge.

The leg to Surge was challenging, we had a strong headwind and it seemed endless at times. We just wanted to make it through and have our second land break. While we could relax a bit more after going through Oki we knew not to let our guard down with Surge, we weren’t as ‘fresh’ as we had been earlier in the day. The sister company boat passed us on the way and I thought ‘Well, looks like we’ve committed to this now, there’s only one way home.’

We hit Surge at max flow, 9.8 knots on the day. We scouted the rapid on the far right hand side and decided against it as it was running into a wall and recirculating. Instead we went between the islands of Peck and Sturt. We took a line in the middle and dropped down. There were a lot of whirlpools and a strong current. We paddled hard to get out of the flow. We followed someone’s advice on the line to take here but on reflection we should have broken out earlier between Peck and Wellsford.

We crossed to the far shore and went looking for somewhere to land.

Options were limited but we found a beach with an abandoned hut.

31

Abandoned hut. Photo: Rosie O’Sullivan

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

It freaked Vince out, rotten floorboards, rubbish, a sleeping bag and a crack pipe. Not the most welcoming place after 14 hours of paddling in the beautiful waters around Quadra. I was happy to be out of the rain, it had been raining steadily since we started. We enjoyed our first hot meal here and our longest break.

It wasn’t long till we were on the water again, headed to the bottom of the island. Our spirits were high, refuelled and ready to go again. We crossed towards the Dunstervilles and thought we would cut across to Rebecca Spit from there. It got dark there, we had no visual reference points. At first it felt like we had a big current pushing us towards the spit but I think we were treadmilling! We decided to cut behind the Bretons instead and work our way towards the spit. On the way, Vince said he’d love to see some bioluminesce. I replied ‘Haven’t we seen enough today?’ As luck would have as we came behind the Breton’s we found some. I asked Vince if he had any more requests?

On this leg, we pushed it too far without refuelling, driven by the lights at the end of the spit, forgetting it’s 10km in length. We eventually landed at Francisco Point where we had our second hot meal of the day. A curry at 1:30 in the morning! I can only imagine what the occupants of the house above the beach would have thought if they looked out. We set off again as soon as we’d eaten.

As we rounded Cape Mudge, the lights of Campbell River came into view. It was almost impossible to stay awake, looking directly into the lights. I thought I heard a noise in the dark and felt something. There was a strange current pulling offshore. Maybe my mind was playing tricks on me.

We continued along the shore, the houses looming in the darkness.

Now, it was my time to be freaked out. They seemed dilapidated and

33

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

ominous. We encountered more whirlpools, this time we couldn’t see them but we could feel them. As we paddled into Q Cove, twenty three and a half hours later, I turned to Vince and asked him if he wanted to go again?

Happy Paddling, Au Plasir de Pagayer, Rosie and Vincent Thanks to Wildcoast for the use of the Nimbus kayaks.

Thanks to Tyler Bruce for your local knowledge.

Back at Quadra Cove. Photo: Vincent Parenteau

34

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Kit & Kaboodle

Masik (Mah-Zeek) John Murray rolls about with a Masik.

So back in the day, before fancy things like flat whites, Bono and way before Nigel Dennis annoyed purists by inventing the keyhole cockpit, kayaks had ocean cockpits, small round openings you had to hit the skinny button to get into.

Photo: Greg Stamer

35

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Classically kayaks weren’t made as may you imagine, with fancy forms, carbon kevlar and bullet proof plastics. They were made from wooden ribs and seal skins. One of those ribs, the one right above your thighs, was called the Masik.This is a Greenlandic word that refers to a special fore deck beam, immediately in front of the cockpit.

Of all the spars which span from gunwale to gunwale it’s the strongest, the most securely held in place by the (seal) skin of the kayak. It is always curved and its rise above the level of the upper surface of the gunwales is what determines the height and slope of the fore deck. All West Greenland kayaks are built with a Masik.

Greenland rolling advocate Christopher Crowhurst says “Getting your nose to touch the foredeck of your kayak should be a goal of anyone aspiring to develop a great Greenland kayak roll. The literal translation of “masikkut”, part of the Greenlandic name of many of the Greenland kayak rolls, means being ‘at the masik.’ ” Don’t worry I’m not on a ‘Greenland Kayaks and paddles are better’ buzz. This is purely informational and kinda cool.

Photos: John Murray

36

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Skip forward 1,000 years or so to new technology, and keyhole cockpits. Drop the sea for a minute and most of you with rivers vintage, or surf experience will know that river and surf kayaks tend to be snug.

Very snug to give you the best control. Lay-up is everything. Hip, thigh and between the knees padding. Then we get into sea kayaks and are left rattling around inside with little or no connection.

What if we mix both? The new fangled pad happy ideas of the rivers for control and the ribbing that gave Inuit people such great control of their kayaks.

Ever wonder how Dubside, James Manke, Eiichi Ito and the other greenland rollers do the 35 rolls on each side and that ridiculous walrus pull? One of the tricks is to ‘wear the kayak’ using the Masik.

Unfortunately you pretty much have to make it yourself. Use high density foam formed to slide in and out over your knees to connect your thighs to the kayak. And one for each kayak, they are all different sizes. The homemade Masik, when not in use, sits above the foot rails and you simply pull it across your lap before the spray

37

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

deck goes on. What if you need to take a swim? Well there are 35 competition ways to roll up either side, not to mention trick rolls like the Butterfly Roll that are not included. There aren’t 35 ways to get back into the kayak. But, when you have exhausted all of your rolls and decide a swim is the option. Push it down over your feet nice and calmly and off you go. Free as a cow’s fart in a field.

Benefits?

•

Much better fit. The ultimate control tool.

•

No slipping out of the thigh braces when you are ready to roll

•

Connected from the get go means you get the full range of motion from your hips paddling, bracing and rolling. Not losing 2 or 3 inches before you get grip before then having the power from your legs.

•

You feel everything! Every wave and bump. In a good way. Water moves, kayak moves, your hips and legs move. You are at one with the sea. Zero disconnect.

•

No more sore hips. You know when you are in a kayak that’s too wide. You need to sit like Buddah to connect to the braces and get out feeling like you have been cracked open like a Terry’s Chocolate Orange. Not anymore. Legs in peak catholic school position. Knees together and still able to edge and control instantly.

Tips: My first tip is for the skeptical and the fearful because I know that was me at the start. Get a yoga mat. Cut a piece twice the length of your thighs and fold it over. Tape it together with gaffer tape and try it. In a capsize it is floppy and just pulls out easily when you hear yourself say JESUS Christ!!

Then go spend €60 on a foam block. Use a hot knife or a hack saw and 80 grit sandpaper to smooth it down. Or do what I did and leave it rustic.

38

Photo: Ariel Gazarian

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Kit & Kaboodle

My most useful piece of kit TnadT asked what is your most useful piece of kit, here are some replies.

Emer O’Boyle Without doubt, the humble IKEA bag is one of my most

valued pieces of kit. Also the cause of my first 15-minute shopping trip to IKEA. 3 items. €4.50. BAM! 3 bags will haul all my gear for a fully packed boat, or properly scrunched can stop the infuriating rattle of a flask in an empty bow.

Orlagh Deegan Tow Line - Probably the most used and useful piece

of safety kit. Never leave the shore without it. Great for towing, anchoring boats at rocky landing and makes a great drying line or a shelter with a tarp in the evening. Also great with kids groups for land games to make a boundary. And maybe if you got attacked by pirates you could tie them up!

John Murray A Masik. High-density foam formed to slide in and out over

your knees and connect your thighs to the kayak. Much better fit. The ultimate control tool. No slipping out of the thigh braces when you are ready to roll. Connected from the get go means you get the full range of motion from your hips paddling, bracing and rolling.

John Lawlor Earplugs. Keeps out water and the sound of snoring

campers.

Sennan O’Boyle Hot water bottle. I’ve always carried one. They have so

many uses! Handy to give to cold paddlers to hug. Could be used to cool down a warm person. Handy snorer swat. Cut strips off the neck of it to start a fire. Emergency water carrier. Pillow.

40

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Also, Duct tape great stuff! Tops for emergency “on the water” rhinoplasty miles from nearest landing. Can even chew it if food runs out. (Ed:TnadT does not recommend this!).

Sue Honan Apart from all the usual baggage, it’s Durex Lube but not for

what you think, you perverts! Find yourself wearing latex neck and wrist seals day after day after day? (ok Ya. that does sound a tad strange but paddlers know what I mean!) It will save your skin and seals.

Anon Imodium. Say no more.

Anne McCarthy A Kula Pee Cloth. Great for women who love the

outdoors and more sustainable than toilet roll.

Michael O’Farrell MSR Windburner: Guaranteed piping hot water for

tea/coffee especially at the end of a long day on the water. Using the Windburner is the kayaking equivalent of a Japanese Tea Ceremony, giving the tired paddler the opportunity to unwind after a long paddle when flask contents may have lost some of its ‘sparkle’.

Denis Staunton The ‘Go ahead’ from a patient partner!

Alan Horner 1 Microfibre cloth for wiping up drips on the tent ground

sheet. 2 Quinoa is amazing camp food. Lightweight compact provides protein and carb. Add curry powder and a veggie for a complete meal.

3 The micro pack towel is enough to get you dry after showering (but don’t try to change on a packed beach or you might be arrested). 4 A wooden spoon is all you need. 5 Carry a few metres of strong cord you never know when it might be useful.

Eleanor Honan Spare stuff sacs, blow one up to make a pillow, store your

dirty clothes and wet togs. Also Freshette pee funnel. Light to hang from the apex of the tent.

John Dempsey Dry socks only for use in the tent.

41

Caoimhe Connor

Sue Honan

We have the expert guides who will help you ch the correct equipment!

Caoimhe, Sue, Jon and Joe are SKUK Brand Ambassadors working with Paddle and Pitch and they are expert guides who will help you choose the correct equipment!

When it comes to outdoor activities like Sea Kayaking, having the right equipment is crucial for safety as much as pleasure. Our team have spent countless hours testing and using our proven products in all conditions. know what works and what Jon Hynes, one of our They experts, pictured here atdoesn’t.

Mizen Head.

Jon Hynes

Joe Rogan

By following our advice, you can enhance your kayaking experience and ensure your safety. We are kayakers who only use proven, tried and trusted quality equipment. There’s a reason why most of the top paddlers/coaches use NDK kayaks!

We always recommend you try out your kayak choice from our demo fleet before you buy! To book simply contact Roger on 086 3934283 - 087 9073057 Email roger@paddleandpitch.com www.paddleandpitch.com

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Technique

Whether you’re working to set a record, coming back from an injury, or just trying to sit more comfortably in the boat, land-based fitness and cross-training can transform your paddling and help you reach your goals.

Fitness on and off the Water Here are a few tips on how to approach cross-training for sea kayaking from Jon Hynes, David Horkan, John Willacy, and Freya Hoffmeister.

Photo: Caroline Schofield 44

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Jon Hynes - Sea Kayaker Over the years, my experiences in the outdoors have led me to several conclusions that guide me when it comes to challenging myself at sea and in the mountains. I’m a firm believer that cross-training for performance or long-distance sea endurance is an absolute necessity.

What I’ve learned is this: training for longer sea trips is where I need to be in my best shape, and for me, sea swimming can afford you shorter training sessions but with maximum gain. Spending more time in and under the water, understanding its moods and energies, is crucial.

Learning to surf, doing long pool swims, open water swims, and even considering investing in a surf ski are all excellent ways to cross-train.

The much-heralded research around nature connection also has shown that the more connected we are, then the better we can perform not just in a physical way but in a more holistic sense. These methods will feed back into improved performance in your sea kayaking. It’s really hard to train for long-distance paddling by just doing long-distance paddling. If you complement your paddling with cross-training, gym work, quality relaxation, and proper care for your body and joints, you’ll see real gains.

I would also point out that many procrastinate for a long time, ‘Oh, it’s too hard’ or ‘I’ll just wing it’. Approaching a goal like this will leave you exposed and certain to fail. I have found that focusing on habit change is key. The first few weeks will always be hard; get

45

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

comfortable with that. But once the gains come, no matter how small, they will fuel and retain new habits. This isn’t just a Sea Kayaking thing, this is a life skill.

Take, for example, Sir Dave Brailsford’s concept of ‘the aggregation of marginal gains’, which brought great success to British Cycling and Team Sky. That same concept has worked wonders for many athletes and sporting organisations since, perhaps you could apply it to your sea kayaking as well. Go check it out.

John Willacy - Sea Kayaker, Founder of Performance Sea Kayak UK as told to Charlie Daly There’s no problem with paddling daily, in fact it can be good for you - up to a point. Depending on your goals you may need daily training to get the required hours in. However, this can be fatiguing both physically and mentally with a heavy load. A change is as good as a rest as they say, and so land-based training can provide useful variety both physically and mentally. For example running can provide aerobic fitness whilst still allowing some recovery to the ‘paddling muscle groups’. Contrast your training: hard / easy -- paddle / landbased to get more bang for your buck.

Whatever you decide to do for land-based training, it has to be convenient and relatively easy to fit into your life, and it should be something you enjoy doing. I like running because it starts and ends at

46

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

my front door. A 20-minute run takes me roughly 20 minutes, whereas an hour of paddling might take two or three hours when you include travel time and all the faff involved.

Tools like heart rate monitors and GPS watches can add a new performance dimension to your paddling because you have feedback to work with to understand how your effort relates to your speed. On flat water, your speed is directly proportional to the effort you put in, so knowing what that speed is and measuring your effort in terms of heart rate are essential if you want to assess and improve your fitness.

These numbers give you everything you need to be scientific about your goals and measure your progress as a paddler.

David Horkan - K1 Paddler, Sea Kayakeras told to Charlie Daly Any exercise at all will help with your overall fitness, which in turn will make you a stronger paddler. Running, cycling, swimming, gym training—it doesn’t matter what sort of training, as long as you’re doing something for your cardiovascular system and your aerobic fitness.

Going to the gym isn’t about lifting heavy weights or bulking up if that’s not your goal. It doesn’t even have to mean going to a proper gym. Deadlifting or bench pressing mad weights doesn’t really translate to the kind of strength you need as a sea kayaker. When I say gym work, I mean ‘pre-habbing’ your shoulders and working on your core stability. Working on a solid foundation of strength in the off-

47

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

season will help you avoid injuries and feel more comfortable on long paddling days. Push-ups, pull-ups, and sit-ups–your basic calisthenic exercises–all support the muscular endurance aspects of paddling.

These exercises can be modified if you find them too challenging. Knee push ups are better than no push ups or push ups done incorrectly.

Some areas to focus on are your lower back, hamstrings, and glutes.

Working on your strength and flexibility in these areas will go a long way towards injury prevention and paddling endurance.

You can never do too much yoga and mobility work. Foam rolling can be great too. Stretching your hip flexors and hamstrings can dramatically improve your comfort in the boat.

Your personal paddling goals will determine how deep you need to get into heart rate zones and the science of it all. If you’re looking to go fast and break records, you’re going to have to incorporate interval work on top of a solid base of zone 2 training. For general sea kayaking fitness, you should be able to change pace very quickly and shift into a different “gear” when needed. If you’re out rock hopping or surfing, you need to be able to match the pace and power of your stroke to the conditions.

This is where fitness can mean the difference between punching through and getting out of trouble and taking a swim.

Freya Hoffmeister – Sea Kayaker, Expeditioner as told to Sue Honan

Do things that are fun for you. Mostly I swim, Nordic walk, trampoline, bike, and skate. There is no need to focus on one particular training, it just gets boring. Aim to move your body every day, especially if you are at a desk for long hours to stop the joints from getting rusty. Two X 30 minute sessions or shorter depending

48

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

on the daily schedule. I might do a few minutes on my Trampoline just for a break from desk work – I aim for 3 backflips a day! I am lucky in that I have a range of tools available to me at home such as a pool, paddle machine, weights station, trampoline. However I use the weights station rarely now as my muscle mass is still good (Freya used to be a professional bodybuilder) and I get bored quickly on the paddle machine.

I love Nordic walking, it is great for upper body strength and cardio fitness. I start my day with a 30 minute walk outside. I swim most days but for no more than 30 minutes. I don’t paddle when not on expedition.

As I have aged I find my recovery times are longer and I always use a seat cushion to counteract sciatica flare ups. The main benefit of the menopause for me is the cessation of menstruation and not having to deal with all that! I eat a varied diet, anything! I put on a few kilos over the winter which usually goes on expedition, however, on the last leg of my North American expedition I did not lose much weight at all.

Any sea kayaker will benefit from a racing style technique and a wing paddle. My advice to women in addition to working on general fitness, is to learn a proper racing style and make sure to use the entire body, especially legs and torso, not just the arms. The aim is to paddle away from the shit fast instead of self-rescuing!

49

Treasna na dTonnta 68

50

Winter 2024

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

51

Technique

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

In August, the James Manke & Eiichi Ito Stay Salty Kayak Rolling World Tour landed in Ireland.

Niall O’Donovan and Robin Kavanagh

In May this year, paddlers Leon Conway, Tony Hawkridge and John Murray attended a Greenland rolling course in Falmouth, England presented by James Manke and This is How We Roll. Inspired, the Irishmen invited them over to Ireland. Once the invite was given, East Coast Sea Kayak Club combined forces with Craig Keyworth of Copper Coast Sea Kayaking and Tony Hawkridge of AdventureKit.ie to make it happen. Demand was high and eventually two weekends took place, one in Lough Ree and the other in Wicklow. We (Niall and Robin) were at the Wicklow event.

Meeting James and Eiichi is an honour. Both are true giants in the international Greenland kayaking community and their passion for sharing insights and techniques was fantastic.

Robin says ‘The attendees were a diverse assortment of paddlers with varying skill levels. Some were avid converts to the Greenland paddle and were there to hone their skills from the experts. I had some familiarity, having made or bought a Greenland paddle although I prefer euro blades, maybe only using a Greenland when in calm seas, or to give my shoulders a break during long open water crossings.

Some were completely new to Greenland style paddling. While we were told that there are 35 Greenland style rolls, we would be learning and concentrating on just two, the Butterfly and the Storm Rolls. We were enthusiastic to learn from the masters.’

Paddlers’ opinions on rolling can vary wildly from “nothing wrong with a good brace – I’m staying upright, thank you very much!” to

54

Photo: Niall O’Donovan

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

“you live & die by rolling – why limit yourself to one roll when you can leverage from ten!”. Young Greenlanders would not take charge of their first qajaq until they could demonstrate proficiency in rope gymnastics and rolling.

While we live in much more temperate waters in Ireland, David Crantz in 1765, notes in the History of Greenland that: “Some Europeans have by dint of application attained sufficient command of the Kajak for a calm-weather voyage; but they seldom venture to fish in it, and are totally helpless in dangerous situations.

The Greenlanders possess in the management of this vessel, a dexterity peculiar to themselves, which excites a fearful interest in the spectator, as the exercise is connected with so much danger that their utmost art cannot always save them from perishing in the pursuit of their sustenance. It will not therefore be improper to notice a few of the manoeuvres by which young Greenlanders are trained to this extraordinary skill.”

Niall says, ‘As a confirmed land-based air breathing mammal, I struggle with some of the basics of the Greenland roll. Yet, I strive to overcome these, as I see rolling as a skill that will help me to improve my overall kayaking abilities and unlock further potential. So when word spread that the Stay Salty World Tour was coming to Ireland, I took up the opportunity in a heartbeat.’

Over two consecutive weekend workshops, James and Eiichi shared their vast experience, wisdom and skills in an open and relaxed manner. A testament to their competency and friendship is how they worked seamlessly together to set out a comprehensive method to share the foundations of rolling. Their focus is to break down the physics of a roll while on land, and to explore important elements of

56

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

a roll that no one else appears to be talking about. On the water both James and Eiichi provided a relaxed atmosphere for kayakers of all stages of rolling skills, in which to put new information into practice.

Their approach is supportive and allows the kayaker to become comfortable with the basics before ever putting their head in the water.

While James emphasized that this course was about rolling he did offer a short helpful tutorial on the use and proper positioning of the Greenland paddle for optimum speed and low splash (so as not to scare away the seals while hunting!).

Today, we are fortunate to have a wide range of online resources at our fingertips, covering all aspects of sea kayaking. However, from this experience, watching countless hours of YouTube videos will never be a substitute for the unique 1:1 tutoring that James and Eiichi provide.

Everyone will have their personal takeaways from the workshops.

Some of the insights that have a deep impact, are not related specifically to rolling at all.

Respect

While we can sometimes get carried away by the latest technology or advanced kayaking gear that will help us to go faster, further or be safer on the water, during the workshop we had the opportunity to reflect on the history of kayaking. There will always be variations in gear, techniques and strokes – this shouldn’t mean that we don’t take the opportunity to celebrate the journey of kayaking down through the centuries.

One example from James is that referring to the kayak as a “boat” is a huge disservice to the history and tradition of Greenland and kayaking because the introduction of modern day “boats” (including

57

Photo: Niall O’Donovan

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

outboard engines & rifles) nearly put an end to the use/existence of the traditional Greenland qajaq.

It is widely known that qajaq refers to a traditional Greenland kayak (“man’s boat” or “hunter’s boat” in Inuktitut dialects), which to the Greenlanders, is considered more as a prosthetic extension of self.

Maybe of more relevance to us in Ireland is qajariaq, meaning “like a kayak”, which would describe our plastic and composite kayaks.

Words Matter

In the past when trying to navigate through the mystique of achieving a decent roll, people would talk about the “hip flick” or “ hip snap” and “being connected” to the kayak. You can hear the words, but what James and Eiichi have brought home, is that these phrases do not in any way convey the mindful movement of the body working in unison to rotate the kayak.

Unlike other sports, there isn’t an offside in kayaking. You can roll to one side or the other. Once you have a ‘bombproof’ roll to one side, you should practice that roll on the other side.

The time we spent on land was so helpful in dispelling misconceptions and to see how to move your body to achieve an effective righting force.

It is probably the first step in helping to develop a ‘bombproof’ roll.

Importance of Outfitting

Before attending this course I would have thought that I was connected to my kayak. James and Eiichi opened our eyes to the extent to which we can outfit our kayaks to greatly improve the level of connection, so that it becomes closer to becoming a prosthetic more than a vessel that we merely float inside.

60

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

James outlined how outfitting will ultimately come down to personal preference and a balance between rolling and paddling. At its simplest, getting the seat closer to the kayak’s centre of gravity can help manoeuvrability and unlock the kayak’s responsiveness to the body’s movements. Other factors such as foot peg positions and thigh brace connectivity (away from the knee) can really help to improve control of the kayak.

Beyond small modifications, James also shared more involved outfitting options available that include use of dense closed cell foam to make the kayak a unique fit for you. (Ed: see ‘A Masik’ in The Most Useful Pieces of Kit on page 40) The second half of the equation is outfitting yourself – specifically your flexibility. Your ability to improve your existing rolls and to grow into the more challenging rolls will be helped by investing in yourself, with a range of simple stretches and exercises. James and Eiichi gave us some excellent stretching exercises that will help us to be more agile and competent rollers.

The key message would be to start small and then test out on the water to verify what works best for you.

The Roll!

While we were told that there are 35 Greenland style rolls, we would be learning and concentrating on just two, the Butterfly and the Storm Rolls. We were enthusiastic to learn from the masters.

Some kayakers may place too much emphasis on the role of the paddle in achieving a roll. However, James and Eiichi broke this down, highlighting that what is happening inside the kayak is where the magic happens. The impact of the legs (yes – plural) working together

61

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

to rotate the hips, in what James calls the Load and Drive, is the primary righting force in completing a roll.

The butterfly roll was the first roll taught. They taught us this roll from step 3, step 2 & step 1. Step 3 was the key—using graphic analogies for the ‘load’ i.e. a baseball pitcher winding up throwing the ball or a golfer swinging his arms backwards before striking the ball.

Many of us have been taught to use a ‘hip flick’ to achieve success in rolling our kayak. This must be forgotten; instead we must use our legs only. For success, we switch position of our legs quickly to load and drive the kayak for a Greenland roll. There were some demonstrations on the grass to show us what our bodies should be doing when correctly rolling. Leveraging body floatation and light use of the paddle are secondary to a successful roll, when compared to the work that the lower body is doing.

James and Eiichi shared their approach to teaching the Greenland rolls, which both supports the learner and focuses on the progressive nature of the skill. Armed with this new approach we are in a great place to work together to build our capabilities on the water.

Next Steps

As Eiichi says “practice never betrays you!”. We all need to get out on the water and practice, practice, practice. There is a huge range of new information and skills to refine and make our own.

There is also a great opportunity to share James and Eiichi’s approach to rolling with our fellow paddlers and across our clubs. This will make us stronger as a community.

62

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

A Word of Thanks

A huge ‘Thank You’ to James and Eiichi for bringing their 2024 Stay Salty Word Tour to Ireland. The visit could not have happened without the support of East Coast Sea Kayak Club. There was a large number of ECSKC members who worked for the benefit of the wider sea kayaking community, special thanks to Colin Orr for admin.

Chairperson Margaret Farrell, Michael Scholefield, John Dempsey and the committee for their support.

Craig Keyworth’s (Copper Coast Sea Kayaking) organisation, experience and enthusiasm helped turn an idea into reality.

Tony Hawkridge (AdventureKit.ie) generously provided a wide range of excellent camping gear, and Greenland kayaks, paddles and equipment for everyone to use across the two weekends, and was a tremendous support to the entire two-week tour.

Thanks to Hazel Johnston, Eric Dempsey and Margeret Farrell for hosting James and Eiichi and several other smelly, salty support crew.

Lastly, both Emily and David Keyworth were stellar in supporting everyone. It is so encouraging to have the next generation take up sea kayaking with such joy and enthusiasm.

Stay Salty!

63

Live the Adventure

T: 028 4372 2158 E: livetheadventure@tollymore.com www.tollymore.com

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Inishtrouble Sue Honan & Mick Carroll

An account of a sea kayak trip and RNLI rescue on Inishtrahull and Tor Rocks 12-14th July 2024.

Sue: We all watch the weather and think about reaching those classic locations around Ireland that are a little more weather dependent than others. The weekend of July 13th 2024 was no different; a wind/ swell/tide window made several spots around the Irish coast attractive.

Various groups of East Coast Sea Kayak club members (we must get a collective noun for groups of paddlers like we do for animals! What would the paddler equivalent of a ‘circus of puffins’ be? I wonder.) were off to such diverse places as the Blaskets, Skelligs, and the Copper Coast. Mick Carroll had Inishtrahull in his sights and had posted a suggested trip out to camp on Inishtrahull, visiting the Tor Rocks and Malin Head on several of the club WhatsApp groups.

Still mourning having to return from Iceland due to an injury, and desperate to go for a paddle, I looked at the trip and figured it was a short enough journey that wouldn’t put too much strain on my body.

I had not been to Inishtrahull—Ireland’s most northerly island—so it was as far north as I was going to get for the next while anyway. I contacted Mick and signed up.

The group consisted of Lonan Byrne, Mick Carroll, Lukasz Dobosz, Sue Honan, Hazel Johnston, Tom Maguire, Ray O’Donnell and Tom Ronayne. Myself and Ray travelled together in Ray’s car which turned out to be a logistical blessing.

66

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Ray and I drove up on Friday ‘the glorious Twelfth’, through the odd diversion to avoid the marches. We all planned to meet and camp near Malin Pier just a few kilometres east of Malin Head in a flat field beside the Seaview Tavern. A point to note about this field is that while there is free camping there are NO facilities, except the pub toilets and shop. When they are closed there is no access to toilets or water. There are no refuse bins either which makes for pretty messy conditions and privacy is scarce. It was busy enough given the weekend, with campervans, tents and cars. There is also a large caravan site beside the beach below the pub. This was also busy.

Mick, Lukasz, Ray and I passed the time in the afternoon by going to visit the Coast Guard station. Mick brought them a cake and someone joked it was to make sure they’d come out for us if we needed them. I said I was pretty certain they were a sure thing, cake or not. Little did I know! It was interesting to see them at work at their work stations and big screens of weather and shipping up on the walls.

Ray had a table booked for half seven in the Sea View Tavern (lovely food) and we spent the time in the bar catching up with each other and looking at charts and timings. Tidal stream atlases, sailing directions, tide tables, charts, OS maps, standard ports, Oileáin, Navionics, eOceanic and other sources duly consulted we arrived with mildly varying timings. The tides around the Garvan Isles, Inishtrahull and Tor rocks are complex, however we were on neaps and with a Tidal Coefficient of 46/44, the flows indicated in the sailing directions were well within our abilities. Keeping it simple, we agreed the time of slack in Inishtrahull Sound which showed the east going flood beginning at 12.34. We wanted to reach Inistrahull Sound close to slack. A couple of us made a track on our GPS.

67

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

My weather note for Saturday was: •

Windfinder: NNW 6-7kn up to 13.00 then N 5 kn dropping off even more by 22.00. Primary swell Swell NW 1.0m, 7S, dropping to 0.9m 7S, cloudy, 15oC.

•

Met.ie: Northerly Bf 3 or 4, occ. Bf 5 Later decreasing NE variable Bf 2-4.

•

Max flow expected about 2 knots. On the day, the Windfinder wind estimate was the more accurate.

•

Slack in Inishtrahull sound was about 12.34. Stay east of Garvan Isles.

While we had bearings, we hadn’t worked out tidal vectors and intended to feel it and make adjustments based on transits as we went across.

We aimed to have the car split done and leave Malin pier at 10.00 on Saturday and pass close to the eastern side of the Garvan Isles to have a look. Then head for Inishtrahull and land in the SW cut, called Portachurry for a short break, after that we would head over to the Tor Rocks for a look and perhaps a sneaky landing. Then, back to Inishtrahull to land on the northern side at Portmore and make camp.

Total distance just over 8 nautical miles. The next day – Sunday, we would was paddle through the gap at Gull Island if possible and then due south back to the mainland towards Carrickaveol Hill, where we would then head west along the coast taking in the cliffs and stacks around Malin head to land at West Town where we had left a few cars on Saturday morning.

On Friday evening we looked out at the flows building between the small island Rossnabartan and Malin Pier. We could also see races out in the distance. It was going to be an interesting crossing.

68

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Saturday was overcast and humid as we departed just over an hour later than planned for the Garvan Isles. As we approached we felt it was ok to go in and have a closer look. The flow turned out to be surprisingly strong for neaps and we had to work a bit to prevent ourselves being dragged into a compact overfall with a powerful drop over a ledge in the shallow water. We gathered in an eddy before passing through the gap between Green Isle and Middle Isle.

Continuing on to Inishtrahull we all commented on how if this was neaps and benign conditions what must wind over tide in springs be like. There were several eddies around the Garvan Isles that swung us about a bit as we passed. Paddling the 3.7 nm or so to Inishtrahull we aimed off slightly west pretty much at 30oN towards Tor More.

We could feel that we were driven eastwards however due to our later start.

Landing at Portachurry was a welcome break as we were warm, having paddled out at a good pace. A lone seal greeted us along with some female Eider ducks, flocks of Arctic Terns, noisy Oystercatchers and various gulls. It was a lovely sunny break, Tom M and Mick roamed over to the other side to have a look at Portmore while the rest of us mooched about near the landing and admired the view of the lighthouse.

After the short break we decided to head across the nautical mile or so to the Tor Rocks and then back to Portmore to set up camp. This was a lovely journey. As we broke away from Inishtrahull, to our right we could see a west flowing race already setting up close to the island – ‘Hmm we’ll have to cross that on the way home.’ There was also some white water around the Tor rocks and some clapotis visible through a gap ahead. Thoughts of having a crack at landing on them evaporated quickly.

69

Inishtrahull Lighthouse. Photo Sue Honan

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

We gathered up at Tor Beg. To the western edge was some lumpy water which we decided to avoid by passing through a gap a few boat lengths wide but which had some swells surging through it making the middle section the safest option. There was definitely a flow against us through here and we went through one at a time with a bit of effort.

Out the other side, the exposure was greater with clapotis along the entire section visible over to Tor More. It was a lovely lively sea. We headed out a bit further to avoid the worst of the ‘clap’ but it was still a bouncy ride east. Ahead we could see bigger conditions on the northern side of Tor More and as we paddled a bit further on past Tor Beg we collectively made the unspoken decision not to go there but to head for Inishtrahull.

A race was running further east close to the southern side of Tor More and to avoid that we turned south soon after passing Tor Beg. Looking across to Inishtrahull we could see that the race we’d noticed earlier was much bigger and taking up pretty much the rest of the distance across the channel. It looked like it went close in to where we needed to land as well. We were going to have to work for our supper even if the wind was at our backs now.

We closed up in loose pairs or threes and paddled on. We could either face up into it and ferry glide across or head down stream and across the channel. For some reason, we headed downstream which was not the most stable choice, but we were already committed to that direction and turning up had its own difficulties. We kept our eyes peeled for each other and for waves which came thick and fast. When we were about ¾ of the way across it eased slightly and we quickly headed up and over to the landing at Portmore. Relief and smiles all round, as it would have been a challenging place to do a rescue and this was neaps! Most of us got a good wallop of a wave or three on

71

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

the journey across. I just loved it. We were off the water about 15.30 I think.

We unpacked and heaved our gear up the slope to pitch our tents. It was not an easy climb off the beach. Lonan swam to cool off, and after a while, Hazel and I also had a swim. It was refreshing and so nice to swim from an offshore island feeling that I was the most northerly swimmer in Ireland.

Having pitched and got ourselves organised it was time to go for a wander on this beautiful island. There are two lighthouse buildings on Inishtrahull. The one nearer to us had the old lighthouse building dating from 1813. It is an attractive walk up along a grassy slope and some rocky outcrops. Mick, Tom R, Ray and Lukasz had gone on ahead and I followed some way behind. As I got to the top I could see the guys ahead at the end of the building complex with their backs to me taking in the view. I began to walk towards them when my foot suddenly went down and got wedged in a hole. I fell forward and my heel jammed against the sharp edge of the hole. I heard a sickeningly loud pop and felt an excruciating pain in my left heel that took my breath away.

Crumpled on the ground I grabbed the back of my ankle and held it tight, I didn’t know if there was an open wound under my leggings and imagined my foot hanging off. When I realised I couldn’t feel blood or a skin break I figured my foot was still attached, but the PAIN! Crying and trying to control my breath I sat there, my thoughts cycling through ‘Oh shit, this is not good!’, ‘WTF have I broken?’, ‘This is a Shout.’, ‘How will I get my kayak home?’, ‘IT HURTS!’, and ‘Ah, It’s just a sprain, I’ll be able to paddle home after a night’s rest.’

The next bit is a bit of a blur. I think Ray came up first and saw I was in trouble, he called the guys over. I explained as best I could what happened and they could see it was more than a sprain. I think

72

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

everyone kind of went into REC scenario mode and I knew I was being talked to and reassured but I couldn’t take much in because of the pain. I just remember being mortified that I was snot-crying and needed a tissue which I was given and very grateful for. After a while, I was aware that I was being helped up by Tom R and Lukasz. I can’t thank Tom and Lukasz enough for helping me down the hill. There was no way I could put my foot to the ground so it was a slow journey with several stops but they made sure it was at my pace and kept me chatting. I could hear Mick and Ray as well.

When we got the bottom I asked if we could go to the pier where I could put my foot into the water to cool it down. Lukasz helped me take my shoes off which was easier than anticipated. Well, of course the tide was at the lowest step so I shuffled down on my bum, arms and one good leg and dipped my feet in. I felt quite hopeful that it would be ok with a bit of rest. After a while it got uncomfortable and I went back up to Lukasz. The others had gone back to the camp to tell the rest what had happened. Lukasz and I looked at the back of my heels. On my good leg, the Achilles tendon was strong and firm.

On the other foot it wasn’t there. Just a V-shaped hollow where it should have been. I could not move my foot up or down. No way would a night’s rest make this better – I wasn’t going to be able to paddle home and it was going to be a ‘Shout’.

Lukasz and Tom R helped me up to my tent and we all gathered round and had a think about what to do. I was loathe to make a call out on a Saturday night on the holiday weekend. The RNLI volunteers give so much of their time as it is. However as we discussed the pros and cons of waiting until the morning as opposed to calling it now, it was obvious that calling it now was the best option. I had the Malin Head CG number on my phone and called them up. The mobile signal on

73

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Inishtrahull is good except at Portmore. After explaining the situation, they said they would call me back with arrangements. A short while later they phoned back to say that the Lough Swilly Lifeboat from Buncrana would collect me at 21.30 (the tide needed to fill before they could get access to the pier) and bring me to Malin Pier where an ambulance would take me to Letterkenny University Hospital. They could take my kayak and all my gear– I felt a mixture of relief about my kayak and mild disappointment that I’d not get a spin in a Helicopter!

Everyone swung into action and packed up all my camping gear and brought it to the pier. Tom Maguire and Lukasz organised my kayak.

Hazel’s tent was nearest the pier so I was helped over to it and we sat there. By this time it was 18.30 and we were all hungry. Hazel very kindly cooked a meal for us and I took two anti-inflammatories washed down with some ‘medicinal’ Sangria that she had in her supplies. I figured A&E in Letterkenny on a Saturday night on the weekend of the Twelfth would be a longer wait than usual and I’d need to get a bit of pain relief in early.

Near the time, I was helped down to the pier and as we went I got a fit of the shivers and couldn’t stop shaking even though I was wearing a large down jacket. Someone got my storm cag and put it on me and I soon warmed up.

The plan was to leave my gear in Lonan’s car at Malin pier so I had his keys with me. Right on time, the Shannon Class ALB arrived and carefully docked at the pier. Everything seemed to happen quickly then, I was swiftly lifted onto the lifeboat by strong arms and carefully helped into the cockpit and sat beside the Navigator. My kayak was placed on the deck. Barely time to say goodbye and we were backing out of the harbour and out towards Malin Pier looking at the most beautiful sunset.

74

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Greg, the medic, took my details and offered me some Entonox pain relief which I refused at first, but as we bumped along I changed my mind and had a few puffs. A few minutes later there was a message that the ambulance had been tasked to a more urgent case and would not be at Malin pier. The crew then decided it would be easiest to go bring me to Buncrana and the ambulance could meet me there instead. They also suggested that I not leave my kayak overnight at Malin pier as it would be more secure at the lifeboat station. So we landed at Malin to leave Lonan’s keys in a safe spot and headed to Buncrana. There was a great sense of camaraderie and professionalism between the crew, who had over 150 years of voluntary service between them. I was disappointed to find my kayak had been severely undervalued – they told me they’d been advised not to take less than €500 for the kayak!

I noticed that the lifeboat was not going that fast and was told they were being mindful of my pain. It was a long enough spin home and I felt ok after the puffs of Entonox so we were soon clipping along at 30 odd knots in the gentle swell. It was interesting to see the water around Malin head in the dusk. We travelled through an area of rough water which I was told was known as the ‘Scares’. I could see why, and this was a calm enough evening.

When we got to Buncrana we waited about 20 minutes for the ambulance and I was gently but firmly lifted up from the boat to the ambulance. We got to Letterkenny University Hospital at about 01.00.

Fast forward to 08.30 on Sunday morning and I am tucked up in bed on the orthopaedic ward with my foot in a temporary cast to keep it secure, having a welcome cup of tea and toast. I cannot praise the staff in the hospital highly enough. They were friendly, compassionate, good humoured, professional and so clean! I never saw so much hand sanitising in my life. Sunday was spent mostly sleeping. Tom Maguire

75

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

collected my kayak from Buncrana and kindly brought a bag over to me on Sunday evening. He also kept my gear and rinsed it all out before dropping it back to me in Drogheda. Thanks Tom! I had surgery on Monday morning to stitch my severed tendon together. A doctor checking it over had used the highly technical medical term ‘well shredded.’ Niamh Kenny kindly came from Dublin to collect me on Tuesday and we had a good laugh as she arrived with her knee in a brace from a canoeing adventure of her own on the River Inny. We both hobbled out of the hospital, me in a wheelchair and she walking with a stick. What are we like!

Mick Carroll: We loaded Sue’s kayak and gear bags onto the RNLI Lifeboat and waved Sue off as the boat did a quick turn around and headed off to Buncrana. We moved to the higher ground and watched the powerful boat surge through Inishtrahull sound against a backdrop of the magnificent sunset. Very atmospheric indeed. We settled down and discussed options for getting Sue off if we had no rescue services available. It would have been possible but the rescue services were incredibly professional and helpful whether Coast Guard, RNLI, Ambulance or Hospital.

Hazel produced a Swedish log and we lit a small fire to cheer ourselves up. This was assisted by the cans of G&T Sue kindly donated before she left. An early night was the order of the day after an incredible sunset.

Next day dawned bright and sunny with very little wind and two seas. The Inishtrahull sound was flat calm while the Torr rocks sound was lively. We headed east along Inishtrahull to Gull island gap and paddled through the long narrow gap to the western side. No whirlpool whirling thankfully so we headed south to Carrickaveol rock then west via Stookarudden and impressive cliff and rock

76

Photo Lonan Byrne

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

formations to land at Malin Harbour. Everyone had enough fun by then so we elected to finish there leaving the wonderful Malin Head for next time.

Tom Maguire drove to Buncrana to pick up Sue’s kayak and gear.

It was a great trip and despite Sue ending up in hospital she got to enjoy the best of what was on offer that weekend .

One safety lesson we learned was if you decide to go exploring alone on remote islands it’s wise to carry your VHF and phone with you and inform your buddies where you’re heading. Luckily Sue was found by us almost immediately after her injury but had she been alone it would have been a very long and painful if almost impossible crawl the 700m back to camp.

An interesting read about the island is ‘The Book of Inishtrahull’. Written by local historian Seán Beattie. In it he outlines the history of the people, the buildings, folklore, geology and legends of the island, with excerpts from the diary of a lighthouse-keeper who lived on the island. It is available here: https://tinyurl.com/2c5b452d Please support the Lough Swilly RNLI so that they can continue to save lives at sea.

Follow this link: https://tinyurl.com/y2lzwr8p Facebook link to the lough Swilly RNLI note on the call out and no snickering about the reference to the ‘lady’ referred to please! https://tinyurl.com/2aaqolqv Donegal Daily also carried the story: https://tinyurl.com/23duzrcd

78

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Canoeing Canoeing Ireland Ireland Courses Courses from fromLevel Level1 1totoLevel Level55

Safety ng Safety & & Rescue Rescue Training Training -- Sea SeaKayak KayakSurfi Surfi ng

Coastal Coastal && Advanced AdvancedTours Tours

info@westcoastkayaking.ie info@westcoastkayaking.ie

79

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Contributors and Guidelines

Treasna na dTonnta is produced by the Irish Sea Kayaking Association. This issue was edited by Sue Honan and Charlie Daly and designed by Adam May. We are grateful to the following paddlers who kindly contributed to this issue and provided photos.

• Mick Carroll • Orlagh Deegan • Jon Dempsey • Ariel Gazarian • Freya Hoffmesister • Sue Honan • Dave Horkan • Jon Hynes • Robin Kavanagh • John Lawlor • Adam May • Anne McCArthy • Frank McLoughlin • John Murray • Emer O’Boyle • Sennan O’Boyle • Niall O’ Donovan • Michael O’Farrell • Rosie O’Sullivan • Martin O’Treasaigh • Vincent Parenteau • Greg Stamer • Denis Staunton • John Willacy Notes for contributors • Treasna na dTonnta welcomes articles and photos • Send as word document. There is no need to format the document.

• Please send photos in high resolution • Credit the photographer and name those visible in the photo with their permission • 80

Have fun writing! Thank you.

Treasna na dTonnta 68

Winter 2024

Sherkin Island

Kayaking Tours From €60

 Half Day / Full Day Tours  No Experience Necessary  All Equipment Provided  Expert Local Guide  Bespoke Tours  Fully Insured

Open 9am Daily Book Today - Explore Tomorrow

Tel: 089 279-9187 www.H2oSeaKayaking.com 81

Treasna na dTonnta 68

82

Winter 2024