Treasna na dTonnta 64 Winter 2019

October 2019

Treasna na dTonnta #64

CONTENTS Editorial

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ISKA News ISKA Chairperson, Chris McDaid

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The Big Paddle Update, Donal Dowd

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Review ‘At the water’s edge two boats around Ireland by kayak.’ by the late Timmy Flavin , reviewed by Sue Honan

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Encounter -

Roger Waugh, Kayaksalesandrepair.ie

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Record Achill Island Circumnavigation, David Horkan

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70o North – A circumnavigation of Sørøya, Norway, Donal Dowd

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Location -

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3meninboats, Rob Burgess

Tory Island Circumnavigation, Marty Corbett

Every Square Inch, Sean Pierce

Kit & Kaboodle

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25

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What to bring on an ISKA meet, Chris McDaid

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RNLI sea kayaking safety pack

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First Aid Ouch Pouch, Sue Honan

Troubled waters -

Time and Tide, Brian J MacMahon

Contributors and Guidelines

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Cover Image: John Dempsey paddling the North Mayo coast. Chris McDaid.

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EDITORIAL

Welcome to Treasna na dTonnta 64

Thank you to everyone who kindly offered articles and photos for this issue. TnadT would not happen without paddlers taking the time and effort to share their experiences and knowledge with us. Please keep them coming: helpful guidelines for contributors are at the back of the magazine and on www.iska.ie. Thanks in particular to those paddlers who when asked for their input gave generously and on time.

We have a fully loaded symposium edition for you this issue. The late Timmy Flavin’s account of his Ireland circumnavigation with Donal Dowd speaks through the years to modern paddlers. This book is available to purchase at the Symposium.

TnadT met East Coast paddler Roger Waugh in his new capacity as SKUK dealer and kayak sales and repair provider. I will definitely be visiting Roger if I need to get my boat fixed and have a look at the new SKUK range available.

Rob Burgess on behalf of 3meninboats extends his thanks to Ireland’s tight knit paddling community.

In Location, the challenge that is Achill Island is briefly described by David Horkan who set a new record for its circumnavigation in late summer. Having spent a few weeks in Norway this summer I loved reading Donal Dowd’s account of his and Sean Cahill’s trip around Sørøya, definitely a place to go. Closer to home, I managed to get Sean Pierce of Shearwater Sea kayaking to describe about one of his many favourite stretches of coastline.

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In response to a survey that TnadT put out to the kayaking community and ISKA members we got some nice ideas for future editions, so thank you to everyone who responded. One of the suggestions was for some first aid/safety advice so we are starting the ball rolling with a kit list for ISKA meets, a discussion of small first aid kits or ouch pouches and some safety advice from the RNLI for sea kayakers.

We all love hearing accounts of when things go wrong and how the situation is resolved, well this issue we have an incident of heroic proportions from Brian J ‘Mud’ MacMahon, holy moly!

Paddle safe and enjoy the sea.

Sue Honan

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October 2019

ISKA NEWS 2019

Welcome to the Irish Sea Kayaking Association 2019 Symposium and I hope that you enjoy paddling the stunning Donegal coastline and the social aspect of the event. I wish to thank Fiona Trahe the Symposium Organiser, her helper Lucy Blake and all who have contributed to making it happen.

2019 has been a good year for ISKA, with a reasonable number of new members and all the usual suspects attending and organising meets.

A significant change this year was the running of an Improver course at Streamstown which was very well received, many thanks to Martin Duffy at Westcoast Kayaking for facilitating it.

ISKA organised two Sea Kayak Leader training courses this year.

Thanks to Oisín Hallissey at Tollymore, Jon Hynes Kinsale OEC and Sandra Bickerdyke of H2O Sea Kayaking for running these well attended training events. It is the Committee’s intention to continually enable the membership to improve their skills at all levels and make our meets safer and more enjoyable for everyone. More courses will run in 2020 and it is hoped that the Streamstown improver course will run every year.

As per usual, our inaugural meet was Streamstown which was very well attended and some great trips took place, including a very rare landing on High Island. Peter Hennessen & Dave Glasgow never fail to come up trumps and 2019 was no exception. Also in May, the Dingle meet organised by Steven Darby took place in pretty inclement weather but regardless of that everyone got on the water. Probably the best meet of the year outside of Streamstown was in Kilkee organised by Brian MacMahon and despite poor weather on the Saturday, the epic run around Loop Head on the Sunday certainly made up for it, fantastic!! A 6

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return to Northern Ireland in July followed, organised by Vernetta Hillen and the Newry & Mourne Sea Kayaking Club and trips on the Carlingford Coast were most enjoyable. The Rosses Point meet in August organised

by Jacqui Cunningham was also excellent, with trips out to Inishmurray & Ardboline. At the time of writing, the Carrowteige meet has been unfortunately postponed due to weather.

Overall, ISKA is in good health, with membership slightly up on last year and most meets very well attended. Looking forward, the Committee will continue to run relevant training courses and hopefully increase the overall skill level amongst the membership. There are a couple of challenges that the Committee have to meet, primarily finding venues capable of hosting the Symposium with regards to numbers and also at a competitive price. We are actively working on this issue and any local knowledge would be welcomed. Venues are getting harder and harder to find.

I would also like to welcome Moira Aston (CEO of Canoeing Ireland) to the Symposium and myself and the Committee hope to have a constructive dialogue regarding any future links with Canoeing Ireland.

Finally, I wish to thank all the meet organisers and everyone who did their bit to make every meet such a success. Also a huge thank you to

Susan Honan & Adam May who are responsible for the high standard of publication which you are currently reading. A special thank you also to John Dempsey who has taken a sabbatical from ISKA in order to do some well deserved travelling. We currently have 2 committee vacancies, we need a Northern rep & an East Coast rep. If anyone is interested in these positions please make yourself known to any Committee member or email iskacommittee@gmail.com - Thank you to Robin Kavanagh (East Coast rep) & Peter McClenaghan (Northern rep) who have opted to step down from the committee.

Happy & safe paddling, see you in 2020 Chris McDaid, Chairperson 7

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Saoirse na Mara Sea Kayaking

Tailor-made trips and training for all levels (for groups of 4 or more).

Multi-day Expeditions on the West Coast.

Coastal Navigation Training.

Incident Management Training.

Safe & Mighty Craic!

Give Ali a call on 086-1733610 or email saoirsenamara@gmail.com

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The Big Paddle Update

October 2019 Can I start off by offering my regret to everyone for not delivering on The Big Paddle in August 2019. I know that so many paddlers had set the dates aside to ensure their availability to participate in what I’m convinced will be an amazing event. Others had booked their holidays to coincide with the Big Paddle and had returned to Ireland in order to participate in the collective circumnavigation of the island of Ireland.

To every one of you as chairperson, I offer my apologies and rest assured that I and the organising committee will work hard to make it happen in 2020.

Looking ahead, I can confirm that last year’s hurdle, that of procuring appropriate insurance cover, has now been resolved. My organisation, Cappanalea NCOET which is run under the auspices of Kerry ETB have secured insurance with IPB for the Big Paddle. The insurance will cover the organising committee, and the projected 350 participants all of whom will be involved in The Big Paddle in 2020. Details of the insurance cover will be furnished in due course.

Tentative dates, commencing on Saturday the 22nd August 2020 have been set for the 2020 Big Paddle. The task of recruiting and signing up participants will begin in earnest in Donegal at the symposium, where I will present a more detailed update to the assembled sea kayaking fraternity. Regional sponsored training will be offered, affording participants the opportunity to be trained and/or assessed up to Level 3 or Level 4 Sea Kayaking Skills. Our feedback would suggest that there are many sea kayakers around Ireland who would welcome this 10

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initiative and benefit from the training and savings involved. There will be more about this initiative on training later.

In the meantime, engage with the Big Paddle 1 Island, 1 Team, 1 Day Facebook page, ‘Like’; ‘Share’ and sign up as ‘Going’ to help create the momentum around the Big Paddle once again. This time with complete certainty, once we have the numbers and the weather it will happen.

All we will need now is three hundred and fifty sea kayakers to commit to their participation in The Big Paddle 2020. Fingers crossed we will get a window of optimum good weather at the end of August 2020. I believe however ambitious and audacious The Big Paddle 2020 project is, between us we have the capacity and ability to make it a reality.

Collectively as a sea kayaking community we will leave our mark on international maritime achievements and put the island of Ireland on the map as being a world class sea kayaking location. Please sign up and encourage others to do so.

Donal Dowd Chairperson of Organising Committee 11

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REVIEW

At the water’s edge, two boats around Ireland by kayak.

Timmy Flavin The late Timmy Flavin’s account of his sea kayaking adventure around Ireland with Donal Dowd was nearly 30 years ago in 1991. However, his words speak through the years and will resonate deeply with any kayaker who has undertaken a long expedition.

Their aim was to paddle around Ireland stopping only on offshore islands. This objective was lost on day 2 but Timmy and Donal quickly put this disappointment behind them.

The hardships of the month long circumnavigation are laid bare without embellishment which makes it all the more meaningful. It gives a good insight to the joy and hardship of expedition paddling to prospective expeditioners irrespective of where they go.

It is appealingly designed, nice to hold and read and the A5 sized diary has front and back cover flaps containing photos of Timmy, his family and close friends adding intimacy to the diary format. The wall hanging made out of Timmy’s shirts by Tomomi McElwee is especially meaningful. The diary of each day’s paddle is presented on a double page with photos, a route map and paddle statistics for the day. It makes for compulsive reading in one sitting.

Present day paddlers used to knowing where they are with constant contact via mobile phone, gps, and the numerous other digital tracking and social media devices will find Timmy’s accounts of when they twice 12

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lost each other both horribly chilling and hilarious. It could so easily happen but today we are never out of contact with our digital devices saving both time and worry. Another difference those paddlers reared with Oileáin, modern Admiralty charts and a wealth of tidal information will notice, is the necessity to paddle regardless of the tide using only information gathered form local fishermen. The pressure of having to finish within a certain time due to work commitments made this approach all the more necessary. Every day off the water, adding mental stress to the physical challenge.

The diary describes both the physical hardship, the pair endured and the difficult seas they paddled through. Rolls and rescues, lost kit, food supplies running not just low but out, physical injuries exhaustion and the hated midge. The reader can almost feel the pain of blisters, sunburn and chafed skin. This hardship is more than equalised by the teamwork, endurance, skill and joy at being in their prime in their element. It is a fabulous read.

The forward by his paddle partner Donal Dowd along with two tributes by close friends and colleagues Michael O’Sullivan and Tony Noctor describe a man who has left the mark of his soul in the hearts and minds of his family, friends and community.

Timmy’s widow Breda Farrell has kindly put his diary into the public domain and the profits will go equally to Palliative Care and the RNLI in Valentia.

Timmy Flavin Ar dheis Dé go raibh a anam.

ISBN 978-1-9160986-0-2

Published by B. Farrell, Killarney, Co Kerry Project Editor Siobhan Prendergast, Dingle Publishing Services

Design by Bright Idea, Killarney

Price: €15 Available through Donal Dowd at Cappanalea NCOET, Oolagh West, Killorglin, Co. Kerry.

Email: donaldowd@eircom.net

Tel: +353 669769244. Paypal donaldowd@eircom.net 13

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Live the Adventure

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T: 028 4372 2158 E: livetheadventure@tollymore.com www.tollymore.com

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ENCOUNTER

Roger Waugh Kayaksalesandrepairs.ie A member and leader with the East Coast Sea Kayak Club, Roger

Waugh has years of experience building and repairing kayaks. His faultless repair work is known by many grateful paddlers. Roger

has developed his passion in an exciting collaboration with Nigel Dennis, supplying the Sea Kayak UK (SKUK) extensive range of

kayaks and Celtic Paddles in Ireland. Based in Dublin but covering sales and repair across the country Roger is an approved SKUK repair centre and dealer.

FROM THIS

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“When I started sea kayaking, I built several plywood and strip planked kayaks initially to get me on the water. Later as my experience grew I built more refined designs with a better performance for sea kayaking. Many years ago I started working with fiberglass and I was able to develop this knowledge into my kayak building.

When you work with wooden boats the resin used is a slow curing epoxy resin which is temperature sensitive and slow to work with, however nearly all the modern manufacturers are working with polyester or vinyl ester resins. It is in this area that I have specialized in recent years. My collaboration with SKUK has been a natural progression of my discussions and business with Nigel Denis about repairs and equipment over the years.

I don’t think any of us in the sea kayaking world need any introduction to Nigel Dennis both from his many famous expeditions and also his very successful kayak designs. Indeed if you look around at any of our meetings here in Ireland you will see a good sprinkling of Explorers, Romanys and the odd Pilgrim. Whilst these were the foundation of his

TO THIS

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range he has now refined and developed new additions such as the Latitude, Quantum, Romany, Excel, Expedition and the Romany S and Sportive plastic kayaks. There is literally a kayak to suit pretty much anyone regardless of height, or weight.

A lot of people I spoke to were unaware of the newer designs and it was as much for this reason, as well as the pedigree of the designs, that I wanted to take on the SKUK dealership for Ireland. I provide a full dealership service to all kayakers whereby we will have a selection of designs for anyone who is interested in purchasing. Customers can try before they buy.

Part of SKUK is Celtic paddles (formally Lendal) and they too have gone through major development from the old Lendal paddles I see still see giving great service to some paddlers. Celtic Paddles now range from the basic nylon blade through to their fiberglass and Pro Carbon blades. One of the unique features of these is they now offer their high quality four piece for the same price as the standard two piece. The big advantage being that if you are unfortunate enough to break a blade, then you can simply replace that blade rather than writing off an entire paddle. Other advantages of the four piece are the ease of transport in your car or if you are flying overseas you can easily pack your paddle in your hand luggage!

We carry out many repairs, including star cracks in the gelcoat, which will cause damage if neglected. We also do major repairs and lots of maintenance such as fiberglass keel strips, skeg repairs, broken footrests/rudders, and new deck lines.

If you are unfortunate enough to have hit a rock, give me a call and hopefully I can help! You can contact me at www.kayaksalesandrepairs. ie, email: kayakrepairsireland@gmail.com phone 086-3934283.”

Look forward to seeing you on the water!

Roger 18

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Canoeing Ireland Courses from Level 1 to Level 5

Safety & Rescue Training - Sea Kayak Surfing

Coastal & Advanced Tours

info@westcoastkayaking.ie

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This summer Scotsmen David Simpson, Ritchie Diaper and Rob Burgess (3meninboats) circumnavigated Ireland in aid of Médecins san Frontières and RNLI. Here Rob extends their thanks to the Irish paddling community.

Ireland Circumnavigation by 3meninboats

Easter is defined by the first Sunday after the full moon that occurs after the 21st March ( or so Wikipedia tells me ). Our lives, for the next seven weeks or so, were to be ruled by the Sun and the Moon. For on Easter Sunday we stood, boats packed, outside the ferry terminal in Cairnryan, awaiting our adventure. We weren’t sure what sort of adventure we were going to have, only that it would undoubtedly be, An Adventure. The three of us all probably had butterflies in our stomachs – not the sort of butterflies that you associate with fear, but those associated with nervous anticipation of things unknown …

The first unknown was whether or not we would be allowed to board the ferry. There had been a bit of communication with Head Office prior to our departure, with a suggestion of loading the kayaks onto a bus! In the end, the staff on the ground couldn’t have been more helpful, and we were led to the ferry with escort vehicles, much to the amusement of some of the lorry drivers. The second unknown was how to get out of the terminal in Larne, and find a launch spot. And then where to camp. There were to be a lot of unknowns in this trip.

But that’s the nature of expedition paddling. You literally don’t know what it round the next corner. What will the sea state be? What will the wind be doing? Where will we camp? Will we be able to paddle 20

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tomorrow? Then there are the really important expedition unknowns – Will Dave snore like a rutting stag for the umpteenth night in a row?

When will be get our next shower? Who’s round is it next?

Sitting in a coffee shop back in Scotland, with electricity, coffee on tap, and flushing toilets, it feels slightly surreal to be recollecting the memories of a more earthly lifestyle – one where the day is governed by tides and weather, as opposed to professional work timetables, and one where the views and experiences are new and vibrant, and not the humdrum Groundhog Day feeling that a daily commute to work brings.

Since returning, I’ve often been asked what the highlight of the trip was. I think most people ask the question expecting an answer describing a piece of coast. The reality was, for all three of us, that the highlight was the people that we met along the way, and the 21

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unquestionable hospitality we received, both from friends/relatives and from complete strangers. From the donation of an ice cream on a hot day, and a wise word on the local tides, through to keeping a watchful eye on us on the water and providing somewhere to lay our heads for [sometimes] more than a day at a time. Whilst it’s tempting to mention some, I would undoubtedly miss someone, and all assistance, irrespective of the form, was always gratefully received.

We were, on several occasions, humbled by the hospitality and kindness bestowed upon us. It would be good to be able to reciprocate to kindness at some future point in time.

It’s fair to say that the Irish paddling community worked wonders for us. Word seemed to spread as we worked our way around , and we came away with the impression that it’s a much more tighter knit community then exists in Scotland. Whilst the fancy electronic tracker we had certainly helped, I suspect it would have happened anyway.

It would be fitting also to extend our thanks to the RNLI, to the volunteer Coastguard teams, and to the various Stations that we spoke to along the way. The Watch Officers were always willing to provide the latest forecast, and offer any local knowledge that they could. Whilst there are many modern day electronic devices to make our trips ‘safer’, at the end of the day, it’s the human element of the various emergency agencies that effect a rescue, and without question. It was a real honour to meet some of them on our travels.

As to the future, well, it’s another ‘unknown’… Thank you Ireland – you delivered.

Rob, Ritchie, and Dave (a.k.a. 3meninboats )

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LOCATION

Fast paced paddling around Achill Island

Achill Island lies on the north-west coast of Ireland, separated from the mainland by the narrow Achill Sound. It has become a classic one day test with speed, endurance, planning and commitment challenges a plenty for anyone looking to make it in a day. The distance is realistic (around 36 nm), the narrow sounds ensure fast flows, and with multiple tidal windows requiring detailed planning to achieve an optimum time and to avoid getting caught when Achill Sound dries out. Along the westerly coast the full exposure of the Atlantic along some of the highest sea cliffs in Europe have all to be dealt with.

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The start of August 2019 saw two solo kayakers taking up the challenge of paddling around Ireland’s biggest Island. David Horkan lead the way on August 1st in a time of 6 hours 20m, setting a new record for the 36nm loop and knocking a whopping 21 minutes of his previous record time.

On August 2nd, renowned endurance and expedition kayaker John Willacy came from Wales to have his attempt at the west coast test piece. He stopped the clock in a time of 6 hours 29 min.

Other Irish paddlers who have records logged on www. performanceseakayak.co.uk for the Achill circumnavigation are Tahdg de Barra, Ali Donald, Michael O’Farrell and Catriona and Paddy Woods. I am sure there are many others who have paddled this classic route in a day and who have not logged their times.

For those who would like a more leisurely journey it can be done in a weekend with suitable weather.

David Horkan

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LOCATION

Tory WISKA paddlers Matt Corbett, Emma Glanville Fiona Trahe, and Ted Carroll spent a week exploring Donegal’s fabulous coastline this August. Here, Matt Corbett describes one of their trips to Tory Island We had talked about a week’s paddling in Donegal for a couple of years but it hadn’t happened for various reasons.

This year we ended up pencilling in August weekend and possibly the following week. This coincided nicely with the Sligo meet. The scout centre in Sligo was great to have, I hadn’t camped in ages so I 25

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was really looking forward to using the tent again. Fair play to Jacqui Cunningham for organising a lovely location. Inishmurray was a lovely paddle as always. It was also a great opportunity to catch up with paddlers we hadn’t met in ages.

Early Sunday morning Ted, Fiona, Emma and I headed north as there was a weather window for Tory that day. The weather was promised mixed so we figured we’d get the ferry across to Tory, circumnavigate the island and suss our options thereafter. After some GPS confusion, we made the ferry terminal with not a minute to spare. What‘s a ferry embarkation without a rush and a push? The ferry company were cool and we travelled on the old Aran island ferry Rose of Aran which has been a major source of contention in these parts.

We disembarked on Tory pier and pitched our tents on a grassy knoll above the pier. Then we kitted up and began a clockwise circumnavigation. The shoreline on the Northwest looks like there could be decent surf, I don’t know if it’s a thing.

The coast of Tory is magnificent. The island is composed of granite on the west, quartzite on the east. Full of gullies, the conditions were perfect, the weather gorgeous. Towards the east end, there was a vertical cliff with a huge boulder perched precariously on the top. Ted christened it Coyote Rock.

As we neared the eastern end of the island, the wind picked up and the sky grew ominously dark. Even though it had been forecast, the speed of the change was quite something, from a summer’s day to wild katabatic gusts that would snatch the paddle from one’s hand. A monsoon shower added to the atmosphere. We beat slowly around the corner and sheltered in a cavern where I put on an extra cag and we snacked. From this vantage point it was difficult to believe it was the same day as when we had started. The Southeast corner was a great, tough paddle. The tidal stream was still flowing against us, the sea had picked up considerably and the wind howled. All in all, a fantastic place to be. Emma and I enjoyed it so much we retraced our steps and 26

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ran it again. All too soon we were back at the slip; drenched, chilled, exhausted, and starving.

The island nurse had spotted the lunatics and she nipped over to the tents and very kindly offered us the use of the medical centre waiting room to change. Winner winner chicken dinner!

We changed in warm comfort into dry clothes and legged it over to the hotel to see if there was nosh available at 21:00 on an August Bank Holiday Sunday. Too late! The last service from the restaurant was 20:30 or whatever. We asked if there was anything she could do. The young waitress couldn’t have been friendlier and she disappeared into the kitchen and returned with the almighty news that they could rustle up soup and brown bread. Woo hoo! We had absolutely delicious soup, home-made brown bread and gallons of tea. Afterwards we strolled up to “The Club” which is the other bar, where we found a very decent gig.

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“In Their Thousands” were a more-than-decent indie band, complete with very talented support. Good spot, cool atmosphere. Emma, Fiona and I all agreed it was the best night ever!

The wind and rain continued throughout the night. Meanwhile our gear dried in the warm waiting room.

Monday, after breakfast in the hotel; Young waitress to me: The full Irish?

Me: As opposed to?

Young waitress: Not the full Irish?

Me: I think I’ll go for the full Irish please.

We headed for a hike. Out the road heading east and left at the torpedo (yes, there’s an old torpedo sticking out of the ground beside the road. At some point the island was mistaken for a ship apparently).

This brought us to a blow hole we’d spotted the previous day. The weather was very pleasant so I could go barefoot mostly and carry my crocs. As we climbed the eastern end some Donegal young one’s took the piss out of my footwear. Young people eh? After a great stroll we reached Coyote Rock where the wind howled and the rain pelted. I’d 28

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put on my leggings and raincoat in the meantime so I just howled back into the elements, my rucksack thrown to the ground.

Ted:

Matt, you’d want to keep an eye on your rucksack.

Me:

Why?

Ted:

In case it blows away.

Me:

Ah I doubt it

Ted:

Still, no harm to make sure

Me:

There’s no fear of it

Fiona: Have you much in it? It is very windy.

I’m beginning to think they may have a point at this stage so I hobble over to pick up said rucksack. I’m thinking to myself; if I’m wearing the rain jacket and leggings, then there’s only a swimming togs and travel towel left in the thing. Maybe the fussy bastards are right.

I pick up the rucksack to find it’s surprisingly heavy. I’m thinking, “that’s weird”. I feel the rucksack and it makes a strange crunching sound. For a split second I’m stumped, then I’m like, “You. Motherfuckers” 29

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The three of them had spent the hike putting rocks into my rucksack pockets! Donkey here was completely oblivious. We laughed and laughed and laughed. Bastards.

What spectacular terrain! We climbed partially out along a very narrow spur. Emma and Ted went out towards the end, Fiona chilled on the cliff top. I perched on a ledge and watched the birds playing with the wind below me. Fulmars, gannets, cormorants, puffins. It was absolute heaven. We continued hiking clockwise around the island, coming eventually to the highest point half way along the north. We had seen enough by then so we legged it up to The Club, where we had a decent curry and played pool for the evening.

Yes, I had envisaged paddling out to Tory, circumnavigating Tory and paddling back to mainland Donegal. That said: It doesn’t particularly bother me what we do, consensus works, it’s always great craic whatever we end up doing.

The ferry trip was a laugh, we had better energy to savour every inch of the circumnavigation.

If it’s a choice between a ferried Tory and putting the trip off for another year at least, then nab it.

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LOCATION

70o North

A reflection on an Arctic sea kayaking expedition circumnavigating Sørøya Island, Norway Donal Dowd There was no need for the early morning alarm on the final day’s paddling.

By 8 o’clock we were fed, packed, on the water and setting off on the remaining 20 km of our sea kayaking expedition, to circumnavigate Sørøya the Arctic island situated high on the north-western tip of Norway. Having already lost two days to storms, the high winds forecast for lunchtime on the final day were not going to stifle the ambitious expedition at the last hurdle. An early start was critical in order to be back safely in Hasvik before the winds blew up. Ten days earlier we had left the port of Hasvik planning to head anti-clockwise around Sørøya.

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Sørøya with a population of 1000, embracing over 30 different nationalities has an area of 800 square kilometres and a coastline just over 520 kilometres. It presents many attractions to sea kayakers. The island is remote, barren and boasts of some of the most spectacular cliffs in Norway. It has a rich and dark history evidence of which is ever present today. There is an abundance of wildlife, ranging from soaring sea eagles in the skies above, to whales swimming through the interesting currents and at times gnarly seas. There are many fjords offering safe havens when required or alternative paddling options for those with more time to explore. Finally, with 24 hours of day light in June it had all the hallmarks for the making of an interesting expedition.

Our planning had commenced months previously. Jon Hynes in the latter part of 2018, had floated the idea of the expedition. He invited Sean Cahill (his fellow Around Ireland paddling partner) and myself to join him to form a compact team of Irish sea kayakers. In the planning phase each of us took onboard separate components to organise, be it flights and ferries; food and logistics. This groundwork paid massive dividends once the expedition kicked off, but not before many setbacks.

Without going into details Jon had to pull back from the expedition in the spring of 2019. Being his brainchild, we wanted to postpone the expedition until a later time. At Jon’s and his family’s insistence the expedition was to go ahead. As a two-person team and with a sense of guilt and uneasiness on our part, Sean and myself conceded to continue with the expedition. On the 4th June 2019, we checked in at Dublin Airport having collected the last of our supplies earlier that morning. We were off, three huge bags, two flights and two ferry journeys, arriving 30 hours later landing in the port of Hasvik on Sørøya. The 3,000km journey north was not without incident. At one point in Tromsø airport all three of our kit bags went missing. Before ever setting foot in the water the expedition was looking as if it would be in jeopardy. However, one bag arrived later that night and a second bag landed the following morning. The third bag with safety gear and 32

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expedition food did not turn up for a further six weeks.

Our saving factor was, without doubt, the assistance received from our ground handler Alf “Good Time” Andreassen. What a character, a contact of Jon’s who among many of his enterprises has an amazing sea kayaking outfitter’s shop and sea kayak touring business in Tromsø. Alf and his wife made the impossible, possible and the loss of one essential bag was no longer the debilitating incident that it initially appeared to be.

Later after restocking the lost items and rations, we took the luxury Hurtigruten Cruise liner north from Tromsø. We travelled stowage class among the rich and famous, our sea kayaks carried on as hand luggage along with the other expedition gear. We’d a volume of kit and a ten-day replacement supply of freeze-dried expedition food hastily purchased before departure. On the 6th June our last short northerly ferry trip brought us and our gear on the final hop from the mainland over to Sørøya to the port of Hasvik.

Part of our preparations included establishing contact with a fishing tourism company in Hasvik with whom we had planned to store our travel bags and other non-expedition items. We were fortunate to link up with Ahmad Saab the proprietor of the Big Fish Adventure Company. A larger than life entrepreneur who went beyond the call of duty in offering assistance and valued advice. At any stage throughout the expedition if we were in need of support, rescue or whatever, he was going to be our primary ‘go to guy’. He’d a pool of fishing guides; a hotel; a holiday apartment complex, a fleet of high-speed fishing boats, jeeps and contact with a helicopter should it be required...!

Our expedition was punctuated constantly with friendship and good will. It was one of the abiding memories that we both carried away with us from our Norwegian expedition. The folk we met shared their homes, their history and their love of the island. They gave us an insight into island life, the pleasantries of summer living and the hardships of winter cloaked in 24 hours of darkness. The two most unusual non-natives that we met were a pair of Bactrian camels living 33

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on the island after acclimatising from the Mongolian desert. They featured in a film and are now celebrated YouTube characters.

It was difficult to leave the warm hospitality and wholesome home cooking in the Big Adventure hotel. We eased into it gradually with a short fifteen-kilometre afternoon paddle on our first day. However, we were anxious to get going as we knew that it takes a couple of days to settle into a routine for expeditioning. Who carries what, in which hatch and who does what jobs on landing? We’d to decide if we would schedule our paddling around favourable tides or would we go with the clock despite having no night time as we were used to back home. The clock it was and our average day kicked off at seven in the morning, being on the water two hours later at our ease. We’d pull in for lunch or beforehand if there were interesting places to explore on land. Always the stove was lit, hot drinks, soup were a daily lunch time treat. Rarely was there an exception from this routine. The tarp was usually setup for shelter mostly from the wind but at times the rain. It operated like base camp and our mess tent in one. Until now I would have considered the tarp as a luxury, but it worked a treat, providing quick shelter when needed, a dry warm space so often welcomed on expeditions and a 34

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communal space from where to appreciate all that is around you. It will be a must- have expedition item from here on.

On more than one occasion we were invited into someone’s house for mid-morning refreshments. On one such occurrence we met three generations of the one family, who’s great, great grandparents were born in the very same house in a small isolated community. They told us stories of the island, the Nazi occupation during World War 2 and showed us cutlery from their parent’s time that bore the swastika symbol as a chilling reminder of the past. The carving knife from the set was razor sharp yet had never been edged in living memory.

The norm was to set forth again after lunch for another three or four hours paddling, maybe completing a further twelve or fifteen kilometres on average. Our time on the water was spent usually looking up, sometimes at the eagles overhead, but mostly at the sea cliffs or the snow clad mountains. The scenery was spectacular, with the snow giving us a true artic experience. Fortunately, on the inshore side of the island the seas were never too rough. the big Atlantic swell that we were used to on the west coast of Ireland wasn’t present. Even the high winds we experienced tended to flatten the sea except in the two pinch points which we had identified long before leaving home.

They were the northeast corner of Sørøya which crossed the seventydegree latitude and the west-southwest corner which is the first point on the island to catch everything that was flowing up the Norwegian Sea and on around to Nordkapp, before turning east to Russia.

We had purchased waterproof maps of the island at a 1: 50,000 scale.

Over the winter months each of us had studied the full coastline in detail, aided by satellite imagery from google maps. We had plotted possible landing points and measured the distance or paddling time between these points. This was invaluable as so much of the coastline was inaccessible for landing and before leaving one possible landing point, we needed to know how far away the next point would be. This saved our skin on a number of occasions. One evening 35

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we were reaching the end of our usual paddling day knowing that there was a potential landing point just around the next headland.

However, on landing the location was far from being suitable. Never before have I come across a site so festooned with flotsam that it was nearly impossible to traverse, never mind find a clear space large enough to pitch our two tents. We are talking about acres of logs; plastics; barrels; wrecks; corpses everything. A huge tinder box of driftwood which if ignited would surely awaken all in Valhalla. There was nothing for it only to retreat into our sea kayaks and put our heads down for a further twelve kilometres to our next identified landing spot. Fortunately, as we reached the end of the thirty-six kilometres, darkness was nowhere near the horizon and the next sun set wasn’t scheduled until the 24th of October - another four months away.

We were never disappointed with the paddling. In adverse tides or winds, we paddled inshore hugging the coastline to minimise the impact. In favourable conditions we moved offshore to avail of the tidal assistance offered by nature. Never too far offshore as we both enjoyed the sense of dwarfness alongside the impressive vertical cliffs.

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On the fifth day while following the coastline and leaving one headland to cross a fjord, there was a massive explosion over our shoulder. A thundering rattle echoed out as a rockfall broke free from the cliff face and avalanched down into the sea no more than one hundred metres away. The shivering crash of rock sent a spray of water high into the air and a wave rattling out as a mini tsunami across the fjord. On this occasion we were clearly in the right place at the right time. Any closer inshore it would have been a different story for sure.

Our first big pinch point was Tarhalsen Head, a long narrow arête stretching five kilometres, out into the Norwegian sea. If time had allowed it was an airy hike which we both had our eye on. The waters below it were interesting, everything flooding northeast brushes past the headland and creates exciting and challenging waters. Not knowing exactly what was in store, except to say that everyone we had talked to over the preceding days had identified the headland with a scornful expression we planned to hit the headland at slack water. However slack water or not there were big seas running when we arrived. So big that we hadn’t time nor suitable conditions to photograph the perilous 37

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series of ladders tethered precariously to the cliff face winding their way up to the lighthouse on top. As we contended with the confused seas, I couldn’t imagine anyone in their right minds contemplating using the ladders to gain access to the cliff top.

Sean and I were comparable paddlers more or less travelling at the same pace throughout the day. However, in such sea conditions Sean has an overdrive gear. He has the capacity to crank up the pace and open a distance between us in a matter of seconds. In his Taran, while on a big following sea, his racing pedigree enables him to stretch out a significant distance over a matter of strokes. I’d learnt not even to attempt to keep up with him, but to steadily follow on along the course that he had forged ahead. I was comforted knowing that If he got into trouble, I’d clearly see him ahead and if I got into trouble, in top gear he was never more than a couple for strokes away It was following our rounding of the Tarhalsen Head that the biggest surprise came. I had no sooner said to Sean that I was going to take my ease and enjoy the paddle down along the lee shore of the headland, in relatively settled sea compared to what we had come through, when all hell broke loose. Out of nowhere an all merciful Katabatic wind picked up, stopping us head on in our tracks. The ever-increasing wind now gusting Force 6 was hitting us on the nose. Bracing ourselves we bent low to the deck, reducing the surface area exposed to the wind and paddled hard. We’d seven kilometres before our next possible landing. We had a hard hour and a half push with little time or energy to admire the scenery.

Our focus was to reach Gamvik where the internet had informed us of a guesthouse. The thought of sanctuary from these harsh conditions motivated us along the way. We pulled in onto a boulder beach below a large farm, hoping that our information was correct. Alas it was not to be, the farmhouse accommodation had ceased two summers previously.

We sought permission from the young farmer to set up camp in the barn which would give us protection from the now blizzard conditions outside.

The farmer Adrian and his wife were having none of it. They insisted that we join them in their house and both Sean and I ended up with separate 38

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rooms in his mother’s wing of the farmhouse. What a wonderful couple and family we were fortunate to meet and in part payment for their generosity we worked on the farm for a day. Thankfully the work was indoors, feeding the penned sheep with their lambs and doing handy chores around the buildings. Due to the prolonged storm our stay stretched to a second night, affording us more gregarious conversation around the large traditional dinner table. There was an Irish connection here, as Adrian’s brother now runs a cooperative farm in Kilkenny which focuses on working with people with disabilities.

The storm blew through and early on the morning of the 11th June we left the farm at Gamvik and continued on our journey heading west for the first time.

As we approached the second identified pinch point, Trom Bolken Head on the west southwestern tip of Sørøya, the wind was already rising but the tide was favourable as we turned south. At our ease we explored nooks and crannies paddling at a good pace with the ebbing tide. The cliff line left us in awe, colonies of seabirds perched on every conceivable ledge. Kilometre after kilometre was breath taking as we made our 39

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way towards a planned lunchtime stop in Sørvær. A quaint fishing village which annually hosts a major rock music festival, fortunately not scheduled until later in the summer. As we nosed out from under the cliffs towards the village, we were welcomed by another rising storm. It was a no brainer; we’d just pull in and settle in for the evening.

The next morning the storm had passed for our penultimate day’s paddling. With only forty kilometres remaining we weren’t going to rush it away. Too often people measure the success of an expedition in how few days it takes to circumnavigate an island. Both Sean and I were of the opinion that if we had twice as many days our expedition would have been twice as good. We’d have had time to punctuate our paddling with spectacular hikes and scrambles. We’d have had time to explore into the depth of the elongated fjords or chill with are newfound friends into the early hours of daylight.

With only a short paddle to do we landed early, affording us time to hike across a narrow trail to Breivikbotn a small fishing village only two kilometres away as the crow flies. I should say as the eagles fly 40

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because as we hiked over, we were above a congress [flock] of sea eagles. We sat watching them soar and land back and forth fishing eagerly in the salmon farm below.

It was to be our last night of camping, so we sat chatting under the tarp, which was usually pitched mid-way between our two tents.

Going to bed that night we knew of the impending storm forecast for noon the following day. It was to be our last day on the water. There was a real sense of not wanting the trip to be over. However we needed to push on in order to land back in Hasvik before the storm arrived. Nevertheless, we still wanted to soak up the remaining few kilometres of the expedition. Unknown to us there was to be one final breath-taking surprise in store. We were totally stunned by the size and extent of the gull colony nesting on the last remaining cliffs of our journey. Cloud after cloud of birds swooped and screeched as we paddled below them. Emerging from each sea cave waves of gulls rocketed out in a frenzy of activity, feeding; nest building and courting oblivious to the entertainment they were giving us. What a spectacle we had as a finale to the circumnavigation.

By noon the paddling was over. Our circumnavigation of Sørøya completed and the expedition now behind us. Within the shelter of the harbour we congratulated each other in a warm embrace, appreciative of the shared adventure and grateful to so many people who made it possible. Reunited with Ahmad in his harbour hotel we recounted the stories and highlights of our trip. Showered, shaved and fed we enjoyed the hotel accommodation on our last night in the Arctic. Next morning the long journey south commenced, dropping the gear back to Alf in Tromsø and onwards to Dublin. Saddened by the fact that the journey was over and one of our bags was still missing, a darkness appeared. Our days of 24 hours of daylight were no more, it was nighttime in Dublin. We were back safe and well and recharged after another amazing sea kayaking expedition to Arctic Norway, Sørøya Island.

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LOCATION

October 2019

“Every Square Inch.”

A Sea Kayaker’s Quest to know the Irish Coast Seán Pierce.

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1. Portmagee to Puffin Island Famously…or infamously the above statement is a claim made on a certain well-known website in Irish Sea Kayaking circles that has given great cause of amusement, humour ,wit and debate amongst my contempories in sea kayaking . Every square inch? Really? Right!

But as the years roll in and as I get closer to realising the above ambition the questions have changed. I was regularly being asked, the details later published in Oileáin, about landings, the presence or absence of water supply, and camping potential for visiting sea

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kayakers on the Irish offshore islands. In recent years the questions have evolved into “Where do you like best to sea kayak in Ireland”? Or Where would you recommend for an different day out?

I, despite my extensive knowledge and experience of the Irish coastline, find these quite difficult questions to answer.

The truth is there are many favourites in my personal list and I find I return to island groups, headlands and stretches of the Irish coast for many different reasons and at different times of the year. I’m aware that what motivates my sea kayak wanderings may not motivate others so I’ve tried in this article to recommend a piece of the Kerry coast that satisfies two key elements that are universal amongst sea kayakers.

The first is the great feeling of discovering something new for oneself or secondly re discovering a stretch of coast that on all previous passages was a full body workout and could only be glanced at!

The stretch of the Kerry coast south from Portmagee to Puffin Island has everything to recommend it. The combination of stunning cliff scenery, the lure of Puffin Island and the Skelligs on the South west horizon make for a perfect backdrop. However, it is the inshore passage south from Horse and Long Islands to Puffin Island that I’m recommending for an alternative day trip. The overall distance in the

suggested route plan from Portmagee to Puffin Island is between 15 and 20km round trip. Variation between groups and individual kayaker will occur as some will explore more than others or wind / swell conditions may limit others. A nice escape route from Puffin Island should winds spoil the return journey is to run for the shelter of Boat Cove towards Ballinskelligs Bay. However, this involves a shuttle or a member of your group being a good runner!

This stretch of coastline rarely allows a smooth passage and it for many years eluded me as swell bump and clapotis didn’t allow for inshore exploration on previous trips. But the wait was worth it.

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Foilnageragh Cliffs Co. Kerry The passage south from Long and Horse Islands is full of nooks and crannies. The high cliffs overhead form in my opinion one of the most attractive stretches of coastline in Ireland. The geology is dominated by the Armorican folding of Old Red Sandstone. The colours vary beautifully between shades of red and green depending on the mineral content and there is plenty of potential wildlife interest.

The stretch of ocean between Puffin Island, the Skelligs and northwest towards the Blaskets is a marine mammal wildlife hotspot. In recent years I’ve been lucky enough to connect with both Common and Bottlenose Dolphins , Sunfish are regularly seen and I had a memorable experience of a Minke Whale ‘eyeballing’ me as it came to check out our kayaks on the passage back to Portmagee. Anything can occur in this area and even on a quiet day the Puffins will be present until at least mid-July.

A stop on Puffin Island is a must and not only for lunch. The landing along the southern side of the island not far from the sound can a be a challenge in itself but it adds to the drama of what already is a fine day’s sea kayaking. It is onto a rough and angular storm beach. An obvious slope ramps up to the island from the foreshore. More details 45

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Lemontounagher Rock and Puffin Sound Co. Kerry

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View from Puffin Island towards the Foilnageragh Cliffs Co. Kerry can be found in Oileáin. At other times a landing can be forced onto rock shelves in the eastern cove probably easiest at times of mid to low water locally. The views back along the cliffs from Puffin Island are worth the landing and a climb to the summit adds yet another dimension to the day.

To complete the day a circumnavigation of Puffin Island and return to Portmagee is to be recommended if conditions allow.

Shearwaterseakayaking.ie Oileáin: The Irish islands guide. 2nd Edition. Dave Walsh. Pesda Press.

ISBN: 978-1-906095-37-6 48

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KIT AND KABOODLE

What to bring on an ISKA Meet If you are new to ISKA or intending to join and ISKA meet for the first time, it can be a challenge to know what exactly to bring. It takes a while to build up the required equipment for regular sea kayak trips however the aim of each paddler is always to be safe on the water. With this in mind, Chris McDaid provides a helpful list of paddling equipment needed for ISKA meets.

The meet organisers of course recognise that those new to ISKA and to sea kayaking may not have everything so if you do not currently have everything on the list below, don’t worry, come along to a meet and get advice and see the kit that people use. Build up over time and leave this list lying around the house for Birthday and Christmas hints or just because! This list is for a typical day trip.

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Recommended personal kit list for day trips -- Seaworthy kayak with deck lines and watertight hatches --

PFD/Buoyancy Aid

--

Paddle (having spare paddles is recommended should a breakage occur)

--

-----------------

Whistle and watch

Suitable personal wear for immersion (drysuit/neoprene/cag/ footwear) First Aid Kit Bilge Pump

Towline - deck/waist mounted

A method of communication (e.g. phone in drybag) Compass

Map/chart of relevant area

Spare dry & warm clothing in dry bags Sunscreen/Hat/gloves

Spare food and hot drink – lunch and snacks Knife – for that stone in the skeg

Waterproof Head Torch – those caves can be dark Lighter

Personal medications

Sitting mat – cold stony beaches anyone?

Boat repair kit, duct tape –if you have a glass boat

Optional but nice to have -- Helmet (required if rock hopping) --

VHF Radio

--

PLB/EPIRB

----

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Paddle float Flares

Storm shelter/bivi bag

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KIT & KABOODLE

This issue, Sue Honan opens the discussion about an essential item in a paddler’s first aid cupboard.

The ‘Ouch Pouch’ An Ouch Pouch is a small first aid kit for relieving minor injuries and illnesses on the water without having to land. It will enable you to get an injured or sick paddler to shore if needed for further treatment or will allow the continuation and enjoyment of a paddle.

Controlling the onset of a problem is usually only the first stage in the process of incident management so early intervention with an ouch pouch can prevent the escalation of minor injuries and illnesses. Like a tow rope, it is an essential piece of kit, that should be carried by all sea kayakers Experienced paddlers will also carry a larger first aid kit in a hatch for treating casualties on land, that topic is for another issue.

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Floating Repairs The conditions in which we paddle can contribute to debilitating situations on the water such as sea sickness, sunburn/windburn, glare induced headaches, dehydration and hypo/hyperthermia. In addition, our hands, arms, backs and heads often get hurt, e.g. tendonitis, blisters, fatigue, sore shoulders, cuts and grazes. Nearly all of these injuries/illnesses can be helped with an ouch pouch.

What is an ouch pouch used for?

The contents of your ouch pouch can typically be used to deal with the following: --

Headache

--

Sea sickness

------

Sunburn

Allergies/stings – jellyfish or insect Hypoglycaemia Blisters

Cuts and grazes

An ouch pouch is not intended to treat pre-existing medical conditions in the group (e.g. asthma) or the onset of sudden medical conditions.

When preparing your kit, you need to think about the pouch itself, and how and where you will carry it. For example, does it really need to be in a waterproof container, or will a dry bag inside your hatch do? This is a matter of personal preference.

If you can’t reach it, you don’t have it Whatever your preference your ouch pouch must be accessible. It is a combination of having as much as comfortably possible, of the really vital stuff immediately to hand in the PFD, and the rest of it in a small kit bag/box at the top of the day hatch. It is unlikely that anyone will be able to house all essential required items for the ouch pouch in their PFD only. It needs to be at the top of your day hatch and clearly marked 52

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because a paddling partner must also be able to identify and quickly reach essential safety items in your kayak.

Worth keeping to hand in your PFD are sugary sweets/chocolate (no nuts) for onset of diabetes / hypoglycaemia related weakness while on the water. In the case of imminent loss of consciousness for example, it’s vital to have sugars immediately available as in rougher water, it may not be possible to access the day hatch quickly. Other items that fit well in the PFD may be electrical tape/cohesive tape and headache/ seasick tabs.

This all feeds into the importance of getting people to let you know in as much detail as possible, before anyone gets on the water, what medical issues they may have. You don’t for example, want to be giving sugar to a paddler struggling on the water, who may have hyperglycaemia issues rather than hypoglycaemia.

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Suggested contents of an ouch pouch.

The following items are useful: ----

--

--54

Pain killers – Aspirin serves two objectives here, headache and heart issues Surgical gloves – to protect you and the casualty from infection. Unwrap them to save time on water.

Source of sugar – glucose tabs or gel or any small thing that is sugary. You may already have chocolate/energy bars which will do the job in your PFD. Electrical tape – Multi use item, for blisters, taping dressings, binding limbs etc. It sticks to itself when wet but is compressive so check for circulation sensation, and movement after application (PFD).

Disinfectant wipes – for cleansing wound if needed. Barnacle cuts especially get infected easily Waterproof antibiotic ointment – with zinc for cuts and grazes. Generics available at pharmacies

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---

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Antihistamine tabs – can help reduce itching and swelling from jellyfish stings

Cohesive tape – really useful for covering wounds and fingers and keeping dressings in place. It is re-usable, stretchy and sticks to itself when wet but be careful as it compresses the wound and you need to check circulation, sensation and

movement when applied. Contains latex. When you buy it, take the central core out to fold it flat and save space (PFD).

Absorbent wound dressing – to mop fluids and apply pressure on slightly bigger cuts Sea sickness tabs – can cause drowsiness

A few safety pins – for pinning an injured arm to the pfd

Elastic wrist support bandage –not shown in image cohesive tape would also work

Recognising the signs of less visible problems such as hypoglycaemia heat stroke and sunstroke also plays a part in reducing their impact therefore we all need to keep up to date with our first aid training.

See the comparison charts for heatstroke/sunstroke and hypo/ hyperglycaemia for a refresher.

Source: osagenews.org

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Source: woundcareinc.com Sources: Medical Aspect of Sea Kayaking Rowland Woolven Ocean Paddler 2016 www.seakayakargyllandbute.com Recommended courses: -Remote Emergency Care – check the web for Irish providers -Wilderness First Responder: a week-long course run by WEMSI-Europe -Wilderness Emergency Medical Technician: a higher level week-long course run by WEMSI-Europe Recommended websites /social media -https://www.facebook.com/groups/recireland/ -https://www.recfirstaid.eu/ -www.wildmedic.org -www.wemsi-europe.org

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WWW.H20SEAKAYAKING.COM SANDRA@H2OSEAKAYAKING.COM 00 353 (0) 86 6062035

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SEA SEA KAYAKING KAYAKING SAFETY SAFETY PACK PACK RNLI.org/kayaking RNLI.org/kayaking

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PREVENTING DROWNING TOGETHER PREVENTING DROWNING TOGETHER

z z

z z

BE SURE BE SURE BEFORE YOU PADDLE AWAY, BE SURE TO CHECK: October 2019

Treasna na dTonnta #64

BEFORE YOU PADDLE AWAY, BE SURE TO CHECK: ALWAYS CARRY A MEANS OF CALLING ALWAYS CARRY MEANS OF CALLING FOR HELP AND A KEEP IT WITHIN REACH. FOR HELP AND KEEP IT WITHIN REACH.

WEAR YOUR WEAR YOUR BUOYANCY AID. BUOYANCY AID.

CHECK CHECK THETHE WEATHER WEATHER AND TIDES. AND TIDES.

TELL SOMEONE TELL SOMEONE ELSE WHERE ELSE WHERE YOU’RE GOING YOU’RE GOING AND WHEN AND WHEN YOU’LL BE BE BACK. YOU’LL BACK.

GET SOME TRAINING GET SOME TRAINING AND/OR EXPERIENCE. AND/OR EXPERIENCE. WEAR WEARAPPROPRIATE APPROPRIATE CLOTHING FOR THE CLOTHING FOR THE CONDITIONS AND CONDITIONS AND YOUR TRIP. YOUR TRIP.

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CAN I REACH MY COMMUNICATION CAN I REACH MY COMMUNICATION DEVICE IF I CAPSIZE? DEVICE IF I CAPSIZE?

AM I WEARING AM I WEARING A BUOYANCY AID? A BUOYANCY AID?

Always carry a means of calling for help Always carry a means of calling for help and keep keep it it within within reach. reach.IfIfyou youcan’t can’t and reach it in an emergency it’s no help. reach it in an emergency it’s no help.

• Wearing a well-fitted, well• Wearing a well-fitted, wellmaintained and suitable buoyancy maintained and suitable buoyancy aidcould couldsave saveyour yourlife. life. aid • When choosing a buoyancy aid, • When choosing a buoyancy aid, checkthe thesize sizeand andfitfitbybyadjusting adjusting check thejacket, jacket,then thenlift liftfrom fromthe the the shoulders.ItItshould shouldnot notbebepossible possible shoulders. movethe thejacket. jacket.IfIfititslides slidesup, up, totomove tryaasmaller smallersize sizeorortighter tighterfit. fit. try Checkproduct productlabelling labellingfor forweight weight • • Check andsize sizeguidance. guidance. and Chooseone onethat’s that’scut cutaway awayaround around • • Choose theshoulders shouldersand andthe thearms, arms,for for the comfortwhen whenpaddling. paddling.ItItshould should comfort haveaabelt beltorordrawstring drawstringtotopull pullitit have tight around the waist. tight around the waist.

• • Choose Chooseaabrightly brightlycoloured colouredone onethat that can be easily spotted.

Make sure can be easily spotted. Make sureitit has hasenough enoughpockets pocketstotostore storeyour your calling for help device and calling for help device andany anyother other equipment. equipment.Attach Attacha awhistle whistleonona a lanyard, lanyard,and andatatnight nightattach attacha asmall small strobe light. strobe light.

• • Check Checkyour yourbuoyancy buoyancyaid aidregularly regularly for visible signs of deterioration. for visible signs of deterioration.

WATERPROOF HANDHELD HANDHELDDSC DSCVHF VHF WATERPROOF

Keep itit on on your your person. person.

•• Keep •• IfIf possible, possible, buy buy aa DSC-equipped DSC-equippedradio. radio.

This transmits a recognised emergency This transmits a recognised emergency signal, and and also also your your location. location. signal, •• Requires Requires an an operator’s operator’slicence, licence,aaship’s ship’s radio licence (free online in the UK) radio licence (free online in the UK) and aa Maritime Maritime Mobile MobileService ServiceIdentity Identity number, which comes with the ship’s number, which comes with the ship’s radio licence. licence. radio PERSONAL PERSONAL LOCATOR LOCATOR BEACON BEACON(PLB) (PLB)

• Keep Keep itit on on your your person. person.

• A recognised recognised emergency emergencysignal, signal, it’s manually manually activated activatedonly onlyand and must must be be registered registered with with the the coastguard. coastguard.

•• Not Not all all PLBs PLBs inherently inherentlyfloat floatand and the the unit unit needs needs to to be be held heldout outof of water water to to transmit. transmit.

•• It It can can also also be be used used on on land landin inareas areaswhere where no phone signal is available and it transmits no phone signal is available and it transmits for for 24+ 24+ hours. hours.

MOBILE PHONE MOBILE PHONE

• Keep your mobile in a waterproof • Keep your mobile in a waterproof pouch, on your person. pouch, on your person.

• Smartphones can provide a • Smartphones can provide a location, but emergency calls location, but emergency calls should be made by voice – call 999 or 112 should be made by voice – call 999 or 112 and ask for the coastguard. and ask for the coastguard.

• The RYA or ISA SafeTrx apps can be used to • log, The track RYA or ISA SafeTrx apps can be used to and send alerts about your trip. log, track and send alerts about your trip.

Visit www.safetrxapp.com.

Visit60www.safetrxapp.com.

For Formore moretips, tips,go gototo RNLI.org/ChooseItWearIt RNLI.org/ChooseItWearIt

BESEEN SEEN BE REFLECTIVE TAPE October 2019

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REFLECTIVE TAPE

Whenever you’re on the water, your visibility is important. But during a rescue, it can be Whenever you’re on the water, your visibility is important. But during a rescue, it can be a lifesaver. Increase your visibility by sticking this SOLAS-approved reflective tape to your a lifesaver. Increase your visibility by sticking this SOLAS-approved reflective tape to your boat and paddle and displaying appropriate lights if out at dusk or night time. boat and paddle and displaying appropriate lights if out at dusk or night time.

HOW TO APPLY IT HOW TO APPLY IT

Make sure your boat’s surface is completely clean and dry. If the surface is cold to the touch, Make sure your boat’s surface is completely clean and dry. If the surface is cold to the touch, warmit itslightly slightly with a hairdryer heat gun.

Peel backing paper SOLAS reflective warm with a hairdryer oror heat gun.

Peel thethe backing paper offoff thethe SOLAS reflective tapestrip, strip, position the tape and smooth it down slowly prevent bubbles. tape position the tape and smooth it down slowly to to prevent air air bubbles.

BE BEIDENTIFIED IDENTIFIED WEAR WEARAN ANIDIDSTICKER STICKER

This will save time – and potentially your lifelife – in– ainrescue situation.

Having your ThisIDIDsticker sticker will save time – and potentially your a rescue situation.

Having your basic information allows others to raise the alarm and track you down if they find your basic information allows others to raise the alarm and track you down if they find your boat boatunattended. unattended.

If Ifyou your gear whilst you’re out paddling please telltell thethe coastguard.

That way we’ll youlose lose your gear whilst you’re out paddling please coastguard.

That way we’ll know that you’re safe and won’t launch a search for you. know that you’re safe and won’t launch a search for you.

HOW TO USE AND APPLY IT HOW TO USE AND APPLY IT

Fill in your details using a thin, waterproof, permanent marker. We recommend placing the Fill in your details using a thin, waterproof, permanent marker. We recommend placing the sticker within the hatch of your vessel, where it’s dry but fairly visible. Make sure the boat’s sticker within the hatch of your vessel, where it’s dry but fairly visible. Make sure the boat’s surface is completely clean and dry. If the surface is cold to the touch, warm it slightly with surface is completely clean and dry. If the surface is cold to the touch, warm it slightly with a hairdryer or heat gun. Peel the backing paper off the ID sticker, position it and smooth a hairdryer or heat gun. Peel the backing paper off the ID sticker, position it and smooth down slowly to prevent air bubbles. down slowly to prevent air bubbles.

REMEMBER TO WRITE WITH A PERMANENT MARKER REMEMBER TO WRITE WITH A PERMANENT MARKER

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HAVE I CHECKED THE WEATHER AND TIDES TODAY AND PLANNED MY TRIP ACCORDINGLY?

ARE MY CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT SUITABLE FOR TODAY’S CONDITIONS?

• Check the weather and the tides before you set out. Try NOC anyTide App or UKHO Easytide. Be aware of wind strength, especially offshore winds (where the wind is blowing out to sea).

• Use beach zones to surf in, marked with black and white flags.

• Seek local knowledge from experienced kayakers in the area.

• Wear the right clothing for the season and conditions, such as a suitable wetsuit/drysuit and layered clothing.

DO I HAVE APPROPRIATE TRAINING AND/OR EXPERIENCE FOR THIS TRIP? • Get some training: contact your local canoe or kayaking club and look for coaching sessions run by British Canoeing or Canoeing Ireland coaches.

• Learn and practise techniques to get back onboard your kayak, should you capsize.

• When sea kayaking in open water take - means of calling for help - tow line - knife attached to your buoyancy aid - split paddle on deck - pump - waterproof torch - sunhat/sunglasses/sunscreen - hat/gloves - basic first aid kit - repair kit - helmet (for the surf or rock gardens).

If you’re fishing: • Make sure your paddle is attached with a leash.

• Beware of overloading your kayak with gear – it’ll be harder to self-right than you think.

• Navigational aids, rod holder and other equipment should be stowed before surfing or landing in surf.

• Only use anchors in areas with little or no current.

DOES SOMEBODY KNOW WHERE I’M GOING AND WHEN I’LL BE BACK? • Tell someone on land where you are going and what time you’ll be back.

• Paddle in a group, where possible.

• The RYA or ISA SafeTrx apps can be used to log, track and send alerts about your trip. Visit www.safetrxapp.com.

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KNOW WHAT TO DO VISIT RNLI.org/kayaking britishcanoeing.org.uk/go-canoeing

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IN AN EMERGENCY! If you can’t reach to call for help, help can’t reach you.

If you need help, here’s what to do.

USING A RADIO: 1. Press Channel 16 button.

2. Activate DSC alert if fitted.

3. Press and hold transmit button and say: Mayday, mayday, mayday.

This is ... [your name 3 times].

Call sign ... MMSI ...

Mayday, [your name].

Call sign ... MMSI ...

4. My position is … [describe position and give GPS location if possible].

5. We are … [describe the nature of distress, the assistance required, number of people and craft followed by any further information].

6. Say over and wait for a response.

7. If no response – repeat procedure.

USING A MOBILE PHONE: Call 999 or 112 and ask for the coastguard.

While you are waiting for help, stay with your kayak – you make a larger target for search and rescue teams.

If you can get your body even partially out of the water, it’ll significantly increase your survival time.

320

kayakers and canoeists rescued by RNLI volunteer crews in 2016.

18

paddlers lost their lives in the UK between 2011 and 2015.*

*Water Safety Forum’s Water Incident Database (WAID) 2011–2015

RNLI.org/kayaking The RNLI is the charity that saves lives at sea

Royal National Lifeboat Institution, a charity registered in England and Wales (209603) and Scotland (SC037736). Registered charity number 20003326 in the Republic of Ireland

Photos: RNLI/Nigel Millard 63© RNLI 2017

Treasna na dTonnta #64

October 2019

TROUBLED WATERS

Time and Tide Brian J MacMahon

They don’t come dirtier than WISKA paddler Brian J. MacMahon who tells a cautionary tale. Strong language, read on at your peril.

Photo: Crovraghan Pier channels.

Let neither man nor woman ever say that I don’t own my screw ups and today was indeed the mother of all screw ups.

So begins the ballad of Brian Mac. Where to begin?

It was a beautiful sunny summer’s day and I decided to sneakily get a paddle in before the family returned from a shopping trip to Limerick.

So up the boat went onto the roof of my car and off I went.

The plan was to head out from Crovraghan Pier on the Shannon estuary a short thirty minute drive from my house. On my way I was accosted by a gaggle of MAMIL’s (middle aged men in lycra) who were heading the opposite direction to me. One of which was “the Teacher”.

Big wave…damn why couldn’t he have been on my side of the road… I could’ve given him a little clip with the mirror. Ah well next time.

Onwards …arrived at the pier. Took a quick look at the channel.

Damn! It’s really moving -top end of a spring tide. Okay that changes my plan somewhat, I was going to head for Beeves Lighthouse which is my usual spot where I stop, have a cuppa and back. A handy two hour round trip. However landing on Beeves Lighthouse solo at high water in a spring tide is foolhardy. It’s a deep water landing onto a ladder. If 64

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I slip or lose contact with the boat than next stop will be Foynes and there is no way you would be able to swim back. Not to mention the subsequent embarrassment of a rescue. So I decided to head anti clockwise around Canon Island taking the channel through Inistubbrid.

So off I went revelling in the warm sunshine and the lovely conditions.

Made quick progress through the channel as the flow was now slack.

Tide was about to turn on the ebb. Wasn’t long before I rounded the top of Canon Island. I looked over at Beeves wistfully but no, it would be asking for trouble to land on the rock in springs so I looked over towards Inishloe. It’s not often I land on Inishloe as it is normally cut off at low water. It has a lovely beach on the south side of the island and this beckoned to me in the sunshine.

Wasn’t long before I pulled up onto the beach - What a day!! I took off most of my kit and decided to go for a stroll. The meadows on the island are completely unspoilt, flowers of all sorts and the drone of bees everywhere. For a moment I felt like what it would be like to be Matt all hippy like.

The feeling passed though, Thank God. I eventually came to the road that bisects the island; I followed that all the way to the north east side of Inishloe. I then made the first of some very very bad decisions.

I decided to walk the beach back to the boat. Oblivious to my stupidity off I went, what a gorgeous day. It really was stunning.

Half an hour later I started to hear it…popping…the sirens of my doom.

It was the water being sucked out of the mud. The tide was dropping… and how. Feck! I need to move - the boat can’t be that far away can it?

I was within a half a klick from the head so I picked up the pace. The problem was the terrain was very difficult, deep holes everywhere and marsh. If I go too quick I could easily do damage to myself. All the time I’m looking at the banks…holy shit it’s really dropping! I’m not noticing the bees or the sunshine or the flowers anymore - I’m starting to panic.

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I’ve landed on what is possibly the worst spot on the island off one of the biggest mud banks on the estuary. It extends out from the beach for almost two kilometres.

Reached the head…ahhh for fecks sake! - no beach. There’s another head half a kilometre away. I’m trying to run but am getting constantly bogged down. I’m sweating now big time and I am definitely not enjoying myself. God this is hard…I’m puffing away like a steam engine.

All the while I can hear the tide drop. HOW can it possibly drop so fast?

Eventually I reach the next headland; there…there it is, my boat… high and fuckin’ dry up on the beach. Damn there’s at least a couple of hundred metres of mud already exposed.

I break into a flat out run… man I’m fucked… I’m sooo fucked.

I huff and puff down that beach - this is why I kayak, a runner I am not! I reach my boat, without taking a breath I grab my kit put it on, grab the bow toggle and turn the boat. My best bet is to drag the boat down to the other end of the beach where I originally came from…there’s a spit of weed covered rock that extends out for a few hundred yards. From there I will only have to negotiate maybe a hundred yards of mud. Easy Fuckin’ Peasy.

Off I Go. I’m dragging that boat at Mach speed…..well to me it felt like Mach speed. God! why is it so hard to breathe? Why is this beach sooo fuckin long? Got to the spit, dragged boat over the weeds, hang on there’s about fifty or so yards of mud to negotiate to get to the outlaying part of the spit. Shit! Well nothing else for it in I go. PLOP! One foot’s stuck - DAMN! get my hands down drag my foot out, no boot. DAMN! DAMN! Got boot…other foot out …NO BOOT…for CHRIST SAKE!!

Okay this is not working, need to spread my weight. Down on all 4s elbows and knees, clip on tow and drag the boat after myself. Crawl, crawl, crawl…tow goes tight I come to a complete stop.

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Okay onto my back dig heels in and drag boat up to me…and repeat.

At last I’m on the outlaying spit. Okay, okay tide is seriously dropping I’ve about a hundred yards of mud to traverse… I can do this…let’s go!

Hang on, HANG ON! Where the fuck is my paddle? Oh Jesus it’s back on the beach from where I started. It must’ve fell off in my haste.

Bastard MOTHERFUCKER!!! No NO NOOOOOO! Fuck it I have to go back! I practically swan dive onto the mud and crawl back down the spit. I’m moving faster now that I’m not dragging the boat. I huff and puff down the beach. Finally I reach the traitorous bastard paddle. I grab it turn to run back down the fuckin’ beach AGAIN. Huff puff, can’t…can’t…I’ve a pain in my chest…I think I’m having a heart attack or something, does anyone else smell burnt toast? This cannot be good. I reach the spit…huff puff….I literally belly flop onto the mud, crawl, crawl, crawl. I reach the outlying spit and my boat.

Ahhh fuck! there’s an acre of mud to get over before I reach water and even then it will be only a few inches, there’s a good half a kilometre to get to deep water where I can get enough purchase to paddle away.

Well the longer I wait the farther I will have to crawl. So move Bollix, move!!!

I once again belly flop onto the mud and I crawl and crawl and Bang! tow goes taught. Onto my back drag boat up to me. Back onto belly and crawl and crawl and crawl. Christ I’m so fucked…I can’t breathe … there’s nothing left! I flop onto my back and I settle into the mud…the whole time I can hear the tide sucking out of the mud bank.

I think back to a documentary I saw about US Navy Seals. They spent hours crawling around in mud, they didn’t have to drag a fucking sea kayak after them though – Pussies!

No no, I’ve had enough, maybe I’ll just stay here…wait for the tide to turn. Hell it could be worse - those WISKA bollix’s could be out there 67

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in their boats laughing their arses off and taking pictures of your humiliation. Wait, WAIT…”the Teacher”…”the Teacher” saw me.

If I get picked up it will be out there…they’ll find out - they always find out. The Teacher knows I am on the estuary. I can see it now in the Clare Champion “Kayaker Rescued from Near Death on Estuary”, that’s me screwed for life. They NEVER let you forget.

No, No that’s not gonna happen…crawl you bastard crawl!! So much mud…it’s never gonna end. Pain shooting down my left arm…here it comes that heart attack I was predicting. No no, now that I think of it there’s pain EVERYWHERE! Water! Oh God water…It’s only a few inches but it’s a start. Boats moving better now no resistance from the mud. I’m swimming …Yes, Yes! Okay time to get back into the boat - easier said than done I am completely exhausted.

Three attempts… finally I’m in!

Paddle! Paddle! Tide is still dropping…I’m out, I’M OUT! IN YOUR FACE MOTHERFUCKERS!!

Christ I’m wrecked, I need a drink! and a wash, I look like something that crawled out of the black lagoon.

My skin though, has never felt smoother…

So Endeth the sad but triumphant ballad of Brian Mac. Lest this be your lesson “time and tide wait for no man”!

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Contributors and Guidelines Treasna na dTonnta is the e-zine of the Irish Sea Kayaking Association.

It is edited by Sue Honan and produced by Adam May’s team at Language.

We are grateful to the following paddlers who kindly wrote for this issue and/or provided advice and photos: Rob Burgess Leon Conway Donal Dowd Sue Honan David Horkan Brian J MacMahon Nuala McAloon Chris McDaid Eileen Murphy Sennan O’Boyle Sean Pierce Roger Waugh Notes for Contributors -- Treasna na dTonnta welcomes articles and photos --

Send as a word document

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Please send photos separately at high resolution Name photos with location, situation, paddlers if visible

Use headings in bold but no need to format the document layout for us Have fun writing!

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