Exploring Cartagena

Founded in 1533 by the Spanish, Cartagena is situated on the northern Caribbean coast of Colombia and was Spain’s gateway to its new empire. Trading in gold, silver, tobacco, and regrettably enslaved people, the city boomed. These days, Cartagena draws tourists from all over the world, many of them arriving on cruise ships to explore the cobbled streets and colonial buildings of the colorful old city. The historic streets of Cartagena’s old city are full of stunning colonial architecture, and it’s easy to understand why the area is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Bursting with palaces, mansions, churches, and museums, it truly is one of the world’s cultural hotspots.

As well as brightly painted colonial houses and picture-perfect balconies draped in bougainvillea, designer boutiques and swanky restaurants abound. Vendors sell delicious street food, and Palenquera women in colorful dresses pose for tourists with baskets of fruit balanced on their heads. Cartagena also loves to party, and there is no shortage of bars and clubs to head to as the sun sinks into the Caribbean Sea. I must admit that I was less than impressed with other areas of the city, much of it being edgy and not particularly attractive. Still, the beauty of the Centro Historico is undeniable. Not only does it feel safe, but it’s a feast for the eyes and undoubtedly a highlight of a trip to Colombia.

Check out the Museum of Modern Art

I loved perusing this compact but well-presented museum. It’s located within the walls of the 17th century Royal Customs House in Plaza San Pedro Claver. If you look for the whimsical sculptures made from spare parts outside the museum, you can’t miss them. Established in 1959, the museum is home to both permanent and temporary exhibits by local, national, and international artists. There is a particular focus on Alejandro Obregon and Enrique Grau’s works and a selection of contemporary Caribbean art.

Stroll along the City Walls

Constructed to protect the city from marauding pirates, the length of the wall runs for nearly seven miles. It’s an impressive engineering feat, built between 1586 and 1786, and it takes about two hours to walk its entire length. I attempted it, but I have to say that it’s not advisable under the intense Colombian sun! I darted into a café for a cold drink halfway along the wall before turning back. There are several bastions from where guards looked out for potential attackers. Early evening is the best time to visit the wall when many people gather to watch the sunset.

Dip into the Gold Museum

Although it’s not on the same scale as the Gold Museum in Bogota, Museo del Oro is a lovely little museum in its own right. As a bonus, it’s also free. Exhibits display the remarkable craftsmanship of Colombia’s indigenous Zenu people’s intricate gold work. The stand-out feature is an impressive pre-Hispanic gold jaguar. Additionally, there are 538 gold exhibits and a selection of carvings. The museum is in a magnificent building on Plaza Bolivar, and it’s worth bearing in mind that it’s well air-conditioned – a godsend in the heat of Cartagena!

Pick up a souvenir at Las Bovedas

Constructed by the Spanish Army at the end of the 18th century, Las Bovedas were originally storage vaults for ammunition and used as dungeons in the civil war. Finally, Las Bovedas were converted into shops. Home to galleries, bars, and gift shops, the bustling area is often crowded with bus tours. It’s an ideal one-stop-shop for those looking for gifts and souvenirs but are tight on time.

Visit the Palace of Inquisition

This building was used as a place of torture during the Spanish Inquisition. Heretics, witches, and those who disobeyed the rules of the Catholic Church were brought to trial here between 1610 and 1815. Upstairs is a modest history museum, and outside in the courtyard, there are models of gallows and a guillotine. The most impressive feature is the building itself, a beautiful example of colonial architecture. .

Take in some maritime history at the Naval Museum

For those interested in maritime history, it’s worth paying a visit to the Museo Naval del Caribe, which focuses on Naval history in the Caribbean. Most of the signage is in Spanish, so it’s wise to ask if an English-speaking guide is available unless your Spanish is decent. The courtyard is used to display cannons, and there are a number of artifacts found in the harbor. Another attractive section is dedicated to pirates.

Wander through the Hip Neighbourhood of Getsemani

I always like to seek out alternative areas in the cities I visit, and Getsemani was on my wish list long before arriving in Cartagena. Just south of Centro Historico, this area was somewhat notorious back in the day for gang crime, prostitution, and drug dealing. These days, Cartagena’s hippest neighborhood is overflowing with galleries, street art, and cool cafes. It’s about a ten-minute walk from the walled city but has a great vibe and is well worth visiting. I had one of my best nights out in Colombia at Plaza Trinidad, where live music fills the air and dancers take to the streets. Vendors set up stalls selling street food, and the area buzzes with energy.

Take a Free Walking Tour of the City

There are several free walking tours of the his-

toric center. They are a great way to gain insight into Cartagena’s history, culture, and people, and a tour can bring the city to life. I took the ‘Free Tour Cartagena,’ which was excellent – the guides are locals who know the city inside out and are happy to answer any questions.

Meet the Local Wildlife at Parque del Centenario

This park links the old city to the neighborhood of Getsemani. It’s not the prettiest of urban parks, but there’s a fountain and a few statues scattered throughout, and it’s a popular hangout spot for locals. The park is unique because it is unusually populated with wildlife for an urban park; it is possible to spot sloths, iguanas, monkeys, and parrots! Although they aren’t always easy to see, a friendly guide in the park can show you where they are for a few dollars.

Sample the Local Cuisine

From tasty street food to trailblazing cuisine, Cartagena has become Colombia’s culinary capital in recent years. The city’s most famous street food is Arepa de Huevo (or Queso), a flatbread made of Colombian dough or flour flatbread. They are filled with egg or cheese and ground beef and served with sour cream or guacamole. Other variations include shrimp, chicken, or chorizo. Stalls, stands, pushcarts, and bicycle vendors ply the city streets. A tempting range of fresh Caribbean juices is sold on every street corner. The fruit is crushed, and then water, lime, and sugar are added. I became addicted to these super-refreshing drinks, which gave me the energy to explore the city. Naturally, seafood is a significant part of the city’s cuisine, and many of the restaurants focus on freshly caught fish dishes. Carmen Restaurant was my pick of a great bunch, specializing in seafood and serving innovative and beautifully presented dishes in an elegant colonial setting. I must also recommend Café Havana. Although tourists outnumber locals at traditional Café Havana, it’s a sizzling night out and an opportunity to take in some incredible Cuban music and salsa. The live bands are excellent, and the mojitos flow.