Travel News Namibia - Spring/Expo 2020 Dubai special edition

Namibia Travel News

Expo 2020 Dubai Special Issue

the art of

Slow Travel

Stay Longer.

Explore more.

www.travelnewsnamibia.com

The next generation

We have always needed the wild. Now more than ever - for its energy, its inspiration and a sense of hope for the future of our planet.

This is why Ongava exists - ecotourism for the next generation.

Namibia Travel News

is published by Venture Media in Windhoek, Namibia www.travelnewsnamibia.com Tel: +264 61 383 450, Hypermotor City Unit 44, Maxwell street PO Box 21593, Windhoek, Namibia

MANAGING EDITOR Elzanne McCulloch elzanne@venture.com.na PRODUCTION MANAGER Le Roux van Schalkwyk content@venture.com.na PUBLIC RELATIONS Elzanne McCulloch elzanne@venture.com.na LAYOUT & DESIGN Liza de Klerk design@venture.com.na CUSTOMER SERVICE Bonn Nortjé bonn@venture.com.na ONLINE MANAGER Ruairí Hammond digital@venture.com.na TEXT CONTRIBUTORS Elzanne McCulloch, Pompie Burger, Le Roux van Schalkwyk, Lee Tindall, Helga Burger, Rièth van Schalkwyk, Ena Visagie, Martha Mukaiwa, Stephanie Mohrmann, Anja Denker, Sandra Windisch, Bruno De Comarmond

COMING SOON! The Travel News Namibia app

PHOTOGRAPHERS Elzanne McCulloch, Pompie Burger, Le Roux van Schalkwyk, Lee Tindall, Helga Burger, Ena Visagie, Martha Mukaiwa, Liezl Hoving, Stephan Slabbert, Brad Wood, Stephanie Mohrmann, Anja Denker, Tolis Fragoudis, Sandra Windisch, Paul van Schalkwyk Travel News Namibia is published quarterly, distributed worldwide via Zinio digital newsstand and in physical format in southern Africa. The editorial content of TNN is contributed by the Venture Media team, freelance writers and journalists. It is the sole property of the publisher and no part of the magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

Industry partners:

ADVERTISE WITH US To advertise in Travel News Namibia or any of our other publications, contact Elzanne McCulloch +264 81 367 3583 | elzanne@venture.com.na | www.venture.com.na

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA EXPO 2020 DUBAI

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Venture Media is the pioneer of Namibia tourism promotion. We are the leader in spreading the tourism word around the world. We distribute accurate, credible, up to date and regular tourism-related information on paper, in social media, on the World Wide Web, and on mobile apps. We have reached hundreds of thousands over almost three decades.

Be part of our community and let’s do it together.

TELL, GROW, SHARE OUR STORY WITH US IN 2021

In 2021, we're focussing on telling and sharing STORIES THAT MATTER across our various magazines and digital platforms. Join the journey and share your stories with audiences that understand and value why certain things matter.

Why ethical business, conservation, tourism, people and communities matter. How these elements interrelate and how we can bring about change, contribute to the world and support each other.

Whether for an entire nation, an industry, a community, or even just an individual.

WWW.VENTURE.COM.NA

or email us at info@venture.com.na for a curated proposal

21, we're focussing on telling and sharing STORIES THAT MATTER across various magazines and digital platforms. Join theOUR journey and share your PARTNERS ries with audiences that understand and value why certain things matter. ethical business, conservation, tourism, people and communities matter.

How these elements interrelate and how we can bring about change, tribute to the world and support each other. Whether for an entire nation, an industry, a community, or even just an individual.

Afrocentric

WWW.VENTURE.COM.NA TV2Africa.com or email us at info@venture.com.na for a curated proposal

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA EXPO 2020 DUBAI WINDHOEK | NAMIBIA

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ESORTS

DISCOVER

RTS

ACROSS THIS LAND OF ENDLESS HORIZONS ANGOLA

ZAMBIA

ANGOLA ZAMBIA

Kavango Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area

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Kavango Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area

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eton ier Park

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BOTSWANA

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11 Waterberg Plateau Park

11 Waterberg Plateau Park

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Etosha National Park

BOTSWANA

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13

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3

Etosha National Park

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ZIMBABWE

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Iona Skeleton Transfrontier Park

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WINDHOEK Daan Viljoen Game Reserve

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WINDHOEK Daan Viljoen Game Reserve

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Namib Naukluft Park

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Namib Naukluft Park

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/Ai-/Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park

/Ai-/Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park

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SOUTH AFRICA

+264 61 285 7200

26 28 27

SOUTH AFRICA

www.nwr.com.na

1. Popa Falls Resort 2. Onkoshi Resort 1. Popa Falls Resort 3. Namutoni Resort 2. Onkoshi Resort 4. Halali Resort 3. Namutoni Resort 5. Okaukuejo Resort 4. Halali Resort 6. Olifantsrus Campsite 5. Okaukuejo Resort 6. Olifantsrus Campsite 7. Dolomite Resort 8. Terrace Bay Resort 7. Dolomite Resort 9. Torra Bay Campsite 8. Terrace Bay Resort 10. Khorixas Camp 9. Torra Bay Campsite 10. Khorixas Camp 11. Waterberg Resort 11. Waterberg Resort 12. Mile 108 12. Mile 108 13. Mile 72 13. Mile 72 14. Jakkalsputz 14. Jakkalsputz 15. Mile 141 15. Mile 141 16. Von Bach Dam1 16. Von Bach Dam1 17. Gross Barmen Resort 17. Gross Barmen Resort 18. Sun Karros Daan Viljo 18. Sun Karros Daan Viljoen1 19. Reho Spa1 19. Reho Spa1 20. Naukluft Camp 20. Naukluft Camp 21. Sesriem Camp 21. Sesriem Camp 22. Sossus Dune Lodge 22. Sossus Dune Lodge 23. Hardap Resort 23. Hardap Resort 24. Duwisib Castle 24. Duwisib Castle 25. Shark Island 25. Shark Island 26. Hobas Lodge 26. Hobas Lodge 27. /Ai-/Ais Hot Springs Spa27. /Ai-/Ais Hot Springs S 28. Boplaas Campsite 28. Boplaas Campsite 1

Public+264 Private 61 22Partnership 4900 1

Public Private

EDITOR'S LETTER

A world that cares

ON THE COVER

It would seem, although some nations are still struggling to awake from the pandemic haze of the past year and a half, as if the travel itch has started amongst many would-be adventurers once again. Life is returning to some semblance of normalcy, depending on your vaccine status. And as spring blooms in Namibia, bringing with it dramatic red sunsets and the soft white and yellow cloud-puff flowers of the acacia genus, our hope for the return of tourism blooms with it.

Spring is such a wonderful time of year. The dawn of new beginnings. An awakening.

Followed by an urge to experience. To discover. To learn and to grow.

ZIMBABWE All of us have learnt a lot over the past two years. We learnt that life is even more unpredictable than we could ever have imagined. We learnt how to work differently.

How to communicate differently. How to think differently. Some of us learnt how to make sourdough breads or even brew our own beer. We learnt that above all, we are adaptable. That is the human race’s biggest strength after all. Our adaptability. Our willingness to change and evolve to survive. We learnt that we can do it at a lightning pace. Far faster than nature.

So now we find ourselves in this unique moment of time where we have proven our worth as an agile species. We have proven that we can reimagine our global connections and develop world-saving vaccines in barely any time at all. And yet, some of us are still struggling to come to terms with other global disasters, ones we have had way more time to get used to than an unexpected global pandemic. And as we learn to make more sourdough and find new apps to make working from home even easier, the world is collectively quite literally burning and drowning at the same time. All while we watch billionaires in phallic tin cans race each other to space and call it human achievement.

oen1

In the wake of the confusion and hardships we prepare for Namibia’s participation in the biggest global event since the onset of the pandemic. On the biggest stage on earth we will highlight the strengths of our small nation and our hopes for a brighter future. We are excited about Expo 2020 Dubai because it serves as a beacon for a future filled with the promise of a world that cares. A world that cares about mother nature and is just as aware of global warming as it is able to wear masks and get vaccinated. A world which has realised that for our species and our planet to survive we need to slow down and rethink. Reset before we restart. Connecting Minds, Creating the Future – that is Expo 2020 Dubai’s theme. We are excited, here in Namibia, to connect with those who understand why conscious tourism and ethical travelling practices matter and who support the concept. We are excited about a future filled with new and returning visitors with whom to share the wonders of what makes us such a unique and inspirational travel destination. A destination that collectively cares about the environment and the people of the country. A destination that understands that people and planet Earth are inextricably interwoven.

As spring blooms all around us in the extraordinary country we call Namibia, we hope that adventure lies on the horizon for you. Be conscious in your journeys. Make sure your visit matters. For the country, its environment and its people. Choose companies that support the sustainable creation of this new hopeful future. Adopt the art of Slow Travel. Stay longer, explore more.

Spa

Elzanne McCulloch

Photographer Tolis Fragoudis spent a month in Namibia capturing the beauty of the country’s people, nature and wildlife.

SUBSCRIBE Visit www.travelnewsnamibia.com to subscribe to our digital publication on Zinio or to order physical copies of the magazine. See p69 for our SUBSCRIBE AND WIN competition.

FOLLOW US ON

INSTAGRAM @thisis_namibia

All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press. Due to uncertain circumstances, this may have changed after the date of publication. Please check businesses' individual websites for up-to-date details.

@elzanne_mcculloch TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA EXPO 2020 DUBAI

Partnership

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CONTENTS In this issue EXPLORING GHOST TOWNS AND RUSTY WRECKS p20 Go on a historical adventure through the sands of the Namib

EPIC NAMIBIA p36 Rièth van Schalkwyk highlights some of her favourite destinations

ETOSHA BABIES p48 The new life that spring brings to the country's world-renowned national park

PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE p58 Namibia as captured by Sony ambassador Tolis Fragoudis

BIRDING p74 Pompie Burger shares a rough guide to Namibia's birding hotspots

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CONTENTS

Also in this issue 10 SWAKOPMUND Tales of Escape 16 NAMIBIA TRAVEL TIPS seasonal tips, photography tips and

driving tips

24 LÜDERITZ the diamond of Namibia 28 TOP GUIDES IN AFRICA at Ongava 30 MEET THE PAPERBARK ACACIA Getting to know the trees of the northeast

33 CAMPING DIARIES A story about a fridge 34 NAMIB NAUKLUFT A hiking experience with NWR 44 FISH RIVER CANYON HIKE Expecting the unexpected 56 LIVING WILD Driving on Empty 64 DISCOVER NAMIBIA with Ondili 73 ENINGU CLAYHOUSE A place to escape to 68 READER'S STORIES Damaraland, this time from the ground 84 THE VIEW FROM HERE Chasing the moon around the burning mountain

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Tales of Escape Swakopmund

Le Roux van Schalkwyk

Text & Photographs Martha Mukaiwa

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Martha Mukaiwa - Author

T

he me in 2019 would never believe that I’ve been living in Swakopmund for six months.

Like some smirking ghost of Christmas past, the pinned tweet on my Twitter profile dated 13 August 2019 reads: “This year my travel writing actually paid my bills…”

The images attached to the humble brag are a highlight reel of the best year of my professional life. A Travel Africa Magazine feature about exploring a witchy market in Accra, a Flamingo advertorial on Strand Hotel, a multiple-page spread on Vietnam in The Weekender and a solo woman traveller story featuring me in Paris in The New York Times.

Fast forward to late February 2020, the last time I caught a flight to Cape Town International Airport, and men in military fatigues are demanding a full list of my previous destinations.

Somewhat fresh from a three-month writing residency in the USA, I had heard of the advancing Coronavirus in snippets of airport chatter during a layover in Atlanta but, until that moment, it still had the vague shape of an exotic boogie man one could avoid by giving hotspots a wide berth.

Planning a trip to Wuhan?

No. Cool! As you were.

Cute.

Wildly inaccurate but cute.

History will tell you Namibia locked down against the Coronavirus less than a month later, embarking on a respectable prevention campaign as the pandemic’s devastating rollcall of death, disease, masks, isolation, travel bans, stay-at-home orders and social distancing descended like an alien spaceship.

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Over a year later, with Covid-19 having doused all hope of a return to normalcy, I wake up in Swakopmund in a cold sweat.

The night that never quite fades to black blinks brown behind the thin gauze of my curtains. Poseidon – great, grumpy god of the sea – is testy that evening, raging amidst a punch of East Weather that deserts the town during peak heat yet the glistening caprice of Swakopmund’s pacifying ocean is one of the reasons I moved here.

That and the fact that my hard-won nomadic life and career as an arts and travel writer have gone up in Covid-era flames and Swakopmund’s pretty perches, retro public library, pedestrian paths, flush of flowers and potential for picturesque social distance feels like having gone somewhere.

Anywhere.

Though the pandemic isn’t a thing of whimsical generational meetups, I’m not the only 30-something traveller who has fled the pandemic-ravaged city.

In fact, I’m nothing if not hot on my sister and housemate Melissa’s heels.

Mel – who spends her time talking to guineafowls and playing her harmonium so loud you can hear her halfway to the yellow bus – has been living in Swakopmund since March.

It’s an antidote for the city where the pandemic shut her Just Breathe yoga, meditation and wellness classes, put the kibosh on gatherings of all kinds and gradually began to close in given Windhoek’s lack of free, safe and natural public space.

“My traveller heart needed something, so I came here,” says Mel long after kissing goodbye her advanced breathwork and Qigong training in Bali to rush home from Cape Town 24 hours before lockdown.

“Sometimes you don’t even realise how broken, stressed, traumatised or in pain you are until you experience the contrast.

Going from a space of constant hypervigilance in Windhoek to coming down to the coast where the ocean has its own healing effect, that contrast was made starkly evident.”

On one of those wonderfully foggy, Wuthering Heights-type days you can find Mel running on the promenade before doing witchy things in the water.

“I just let the sea water rush over my feet. I take it in my hands and do a cleansing of all of my energy points. The smell of the sea air slaps my cells and my soul in a way that I can’t explain,” says Mel with the kind of starry-eyed delight I have only seen when she is reaching for a ruby red Cosmopolitan on the Welwitschia Lounge terrace or after a friendly dolphin cuts across the Mole.

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As we sit in the park below the lighthouse, Liezl’s two-year European visa is expiring on a shelf somewhere. During a visit to Namibia last year, Liezl got locked down in her teenage bedroom and was also barred from returning to the Netherlands.

“I love my mom but at 37, you don’t want to live at home,” says Liezl, who worked on the Swakopmund set of Mad Max: Fury Road in 2012 and figured the place might suit her small-town roots and love affair with the desert.

Eight months later, Liezl takes her white Renault Sandero out of the garage twice a week and Windhoek’s traffic, cost of petrol and feeling of having her by the throat is a distant memory.

Melissa Mukaiwa “Connecting to the sea puts me in a state of humility and gratitude and just makes me ready to perform.”

Mel performs soaring harmonium solos on her Instagram Live a couple of times a week but she’s really in town to build her digital product suite.

“There’s an ease here,” she says, glancing at the children gathered at the low end of a Witch’s Hat in the sun-drenched park below the town’s iconic lighthouse.

“In Windhoek, even at my best, I wouldn’t have been able to get to where I can here just by virtue of context.”

Mel tells me this idea is called ontological design.

“You design a space and then the space designs you. When brought together, certain forms and colours create states of harmony. Others create states of discord. There’s a reason why monks live in temples. They could probably be okay living in the city but why the path of most resistance?”

Like Mel, Liezl Hoving is a Cancerian who escaped to Swakopmund when her globetrotting and yoga-teaching world caved in.

In contrast, Liezl grows basil, rocket, lavender and rose geranium on her balcony. She walks, adventures and rediscovers her love for photography, ever excited by the fact that the Erongo region is so diverse and so gloriously defined by wildest nature.

“Out in the desert, just out of town, there are two beautiful labyrinths and a medicine circle somebody built, apparently during lockdown,” she says, perched below the mid-winter blue sky of a town she wasn’t expecting to call home.

“It’s not easy when you’ve spent two years of your life working up to creating the life that you want, you just get started and then it’s taken away. There’s been a lot of pain for everyone,” she says soberly, aware of the privilege of Swakopmund and life itself.

“We all know one side of Swakop is super curated and the other side is still struggling but, for me, it has felt gentler.”

Liezl’s travels were never brief – a year in Vietnam, six months in India – but Swakopmund has helped her heal the professional and personal losses of this time and given her a much-needed sense of home.

As charmed as she is, Liezl doesn’t know if she will stay forever.

Unlike Mel, Liezl is allergic to fish.

The plot twist is that since she moved to Swakop, Liezl has taken up fishing. The severity of her allergy means that she can’t bait the hook or even so much as touch a fishy rod but here we are.

“I once caught a little klipvissie,” says Liezl who prefers to catch and release at Mile 8 or 14. “I just really enjoy being in the waves and casting.”

Fishing is something Liezl calls “direct experience”.

“I work online so I spend a lot of time typing and looking at a screen. The whole world exists in my head and my senses are untouched. So when I have free time, it’s about being out where I can have direct experience of something.”

Liezl Hoving

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Stephan Slabbert

But, a little way down the road, Riaan Smit is pretty much sold.

On most days, you can find him rising with the sun, walking towards the dunes in the morning and down to the beach to catch one of Swakopmund’s impossibly beautiful sunsets in the evening.

Family, community, a world-class recording studio in Nautilus Studios, the live music haven that is Sound Garden and safety are Riaan’s Swakopmund top five.

Riaan Smit

“I literally had my heart stop four years ago from someone trying to kill me with a brick to the face. So, yeah, feeling safe is a big thing for me,” he says, referring to a violent mugging in Windhoek that made the national news in 2017.

When the pandemic dropped, Riaan was hot off a festival in Arizona and going home to the Cayman Islands which had already closed shop. With just four shirts, some pants and a guitar, he made the snap decision to return home to Windhoek.

“I was stuck in a tiny little room for four months. I didn’t have a microwave, man. I didn’t have a cooking stove. I had a cool box.”

As Windhoek’s live music scene evaporated in the glare of lockdowns, the city felt like no place to linger.

“In Windhoek, everyone’s in their castles. In Swakopmund, I can think of a hundred places to walk to right now that would be fascinating for my eye. I also like Swakopmund’s small village vibe with its little bars and cafés.”

Since relocating to the coast indefinitely, Riaan has starred in a trippy music video for his latest single, writes and plays music every day but always has time for Langstrand.

“It’s a 20 km beach so you’ve got space to social distance. The east wind pushes those clouds away. You see bakkies on the beach, everyone is loading up their braais and life goes on.”

At Slowtown Coffee Roasters, life is just beginning for Elijah Martins.

Elijah is 25.

He’s the kind of barista who’ll remember your name, writing it in perfect cappuccino foam just to see you smile and there’s no big ball of travel flames in his pandemic backstory.

A few months ago, after travelling to Swakopmund for the first time since he was 7, Elijah simply left his job in Windhoek, packed a bag and headed back to the sea. There’s a tranquil patch of beach near The Wreck that has become Elijah’s preferred place of peace and it feels good to have got shot of Windhoek’s rat race.

Elijah Martins

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“Windhoek puts you in this position where your whole focus is the grind. The grind to make money. The grind to look good for this or that,” says Elijah who walks more than he ever has and is slowly working his way through the town’s many adventure activities.

“Everybody, especially in my generation, wants to take pictures in fancy places for Instagram. It’s like you’re stuck in a trap of pretense. You never get the chance to breathe.”

Elijah, a barista, jokes that he’s literally still grinding in Swakopmund but, when the day ends, he’s thrilled to be there.

“It’s like Swakopmund sparked this touristic feeling for my own country,” he says before insisting on a side profile photo on the beach because he’s always wanted one and, lately, the sea is his best bud.

“When I came here and I took a deep breath of that nice ocean air, I felt like I was breathing for the first time in a long time.”

I like that last sentiment and tell Elijah he should try his hand at writing before taking his picture on the beach.

It’s one of those perfect days where kids play, the aquarium beckons and the sun is a bright, benevolent god watching over it all as if nothing in the world can go wrong.

It’s a delicious delusion and, on some days, I manage to take a big bite.

I’m not where I thought I would be – not by a long shot, a miss or a mile – but, boy, is this a lucky spot in which to wait out the plague. TNN

Elzanne McCulloch

Namibia Travel Tips SEASONAL TIPS FOR TRAVELLERS •

The best time to visit Windhoek and the surroundings is between May and September when it is cooler and dry.

In the rainy season from November to March it is hot and somewhat humid, sometimes with heavy rains.

•

As for southern Namibia and the desert areas around Sossusvlei, it is best to avoid the summer months when temperatures can be extreme. Temperatures between May and September are generally milder and more comfortable, but keep in mind that it can be cold in winter, especially at night.

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The climate in Lüderitz and at the southern coast is hospitable from February to May, but quite cool all year round, and particularly windy in August.

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From October to March is the best time to visit the coastal towns of Swakopmund, Walvis Bay and Henties Bay, as weather conditions are particularly pleasant compared to the hot interior. When dry easterly winds blow, however, it can also be very hot.

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To the north, the Skeleton Coast has much the same moderate weather, with mist, wind and very little or no rain all year round. For fishing enthusiasts, this area is at its best between November and March.

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In Kaokoland, a good time to visit is from May to August when it is cooler. The summer months bring extremely high

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temperatures and occasionally flash floods, as most of the scarce rain falls between January and March.

•

The best time to visit Etosha is from April to September when the temperatures are tolerable, especially at night.

This is also the best time for game viewing because animals flock to the waterholes to drink. For bird-watching, on the other hand, summer is more suitable, as scores of migratory birds arrive in the park after the summer rains.

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Summer is hot and humid in the Kavango and Zambezi regions in the northeast, but as in Etosha it is the best time for bird-watching. Rain and seasonal flooding may make some of the roads inaccessible, however. It is advisable to enquire about road conditions before embarking on a trip. April to October are the best time for game viewing in Zambezi. It is much cooler and drier then, with practically no rain.

•

April and May are particularly pleasant months in Namibia.

Usually the last rains of the season have fallen, the air is fresh and free of dust, and the land is green, vibrant and full of new life.

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During the winter months from June to August the whole country cools down and nights can be quite cold. As it becomes drier, the game in parks and reserves migrates to the waterholes and is easier to spot.

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By September and October temperatures rise again and game viewing in most areas is at its best, although there

is often a lot of dust around and the vegetation has lost its vibrancy.

•

November is a highly variable month. Sometimes the hot, dry weather will continue, at other times it might be humid, the sky will fill with clouds and the first thunderstorms and rains might occur.

STAY CONNECTED

Most accommodation establishments offer WiFi to stay connected with friends and family or to share holiday photos on social media. It is recommended that visitors buy a sim card for possible emergencies on self-drives. Pay-as-you-go options are available from one of the local service providers. Cell phone coverage along main roads is good in general.

•

PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS •

Decide on the gear you want to use before you leave home. Carefully select the lens or lenses to avoid lugging tons of equipment around on your holiday.

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Bring enough memory cards or download your images regularly.

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Pack a second battery or two and don’t forget to charge batteries whenever possible; especially when camping you won’t always have the luxury of electricity. Since you will spend a great deal of time on the road, a car charger can be very useful.

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Don’t skimp on a good camera bag for your expensive gear.

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Research the area that you will be visiting and establish which type of animals or birds you can expect to see or what kind of sights to photograph.

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Find out about sunrise and sunset times and the phases of the moon.

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Golden hour usually makes for the best images. You will be surprised how beautiful and soft the landscape becomes just before sunset compared to the harsh, unforgiving light of midday.

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When you stay at a place for more than one day – plan your shots to make sure you get the best of the light and the environment.

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A simple dust blower is a lightweight and an essential piece of equipment for a quick clean.

MALARIA •

•

Namibia is a summer rainfall area with high temperatures, humid conditions in places and standing bodies of water, an ideal breeding ground for mosquitoes.

Malaria is still the number-one killer disease in Africa, so be sure to take prophylaxis if you are visiting areas north of Windhoek, especially during the rainy season and well into winter. In years of increased and prolonged rainfall, the risk of catching malaria is also higher for a longer period of time.

•

Rub or spray on some mosquito deterrent and wear long sleeves, long trousers and socks if sitting outside in the evening. Sleep under a mosquito net whenever possible.

•

Consult your family doctor before leaving home. Some prophylactic regimes need to be started before your departure. Should you become ill on your return home, tell your doctor that you have visited a malarial area.

STAY SAFE

Namibia is one of the safest countries in Africa. However, like in the rest of the world, there are opportunists who can’t resist nabbing an unguarded wallet or camera. Use common sense, especially in the towns, and also be vigilant at night.

PHOTOGRAPHING PEOPLE •

Always ask before taking a photo of a person, especially in rural areas. Approach people gently, greet them and ask if you may take their picture. It is always a good idea to explain who you are, what you want to do with the photo and what made you interested in taking it in the first place.

This will help to quell suspicion, avoid confrontation and build trust. Who knows, it could even land you a new friend.

•

You can get an immediate and intimate look into someone’s life when you see them at work. By asking people about their work, they will talk more candidly and are usually more willing to have their photos taken. Plus, workplaces have built-in props that help people feel more relaxed and give them something to do with their hands.

•

If someone refuses your request to take a photo, either verbally, by turning away or running for cover, move on and

CAMPING TIPS •

Never camp too close to a natural spring or a waterhole in case you prevent wild animals from reaching this precious resource.

•

Avoid camping in worn wildlife paths; especially stay clear of those used by elephants.

•

Keep campfires small, and be extremely cautious not to start a wildfire.

•

At campsites, be considerate of other guests and keep the noise level to a minimum, especially when getting up early in the morning to leave while others are still sleeping.

Do not pitch camp in dry riverbeds during the rainy season.

Rivers that have been dry for most of the year tend to start flooding unexpectedly and can quickly turn into raging torrents. Often it rains many kilometres away and the unwary traveller may have no clue of what is coming.

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find another subject. This might mean that you may not get the photo you wanted, but do not try and sneak a photo of someone who has made it clear that they don’t want to have it taken. Nevertheless sneaking one builds mistrust and anger towards future travellers. Remember, there will be other opportunities in other places.

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It is not necessary to ask permission when you want to take photos at a cultural village, at a cultural performance or on a pre-arranged photographic tour. To be on the safe side, check with your guide or local companion first.

Children are generally happy to oblige a foreign photographer. The most powerful images are often the ones where children are not posing at all but are involved in some activity. However, before taking a photo of a child it is very important to ask a parent and receive permission.

Remember to treat the people you are visiting as you would want to be treated in your home.

If possible, try to send a copy of the picture to the person you have photographed. While it is difficult to send printed copies, especially to people in rural areas, these days most people own smartphones or have a relative or friend who owns one and is on some form of social media. Be sure to take these contact details in order to send them their photos.

It is illegal to take photos of men and women in uniform, except during a public parade, or something similar.

Otherwise, taking a picture of a police officer or soldier on duty is out of the question.

WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM

DRIVING TIPS •

Make sure that you drive with the correct tyre pressure on gravel roads. High tyre pressure can affect handling your vehicle and, coupled with speed, can cause accidents.

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Gravel roads are dusty. If you drive too closely behind another car, your visibility will be limited. Never overtake in dusty conditions.

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Always keep your headlights switched on to be visible to oncoming vehicles.

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Know how to change a tyre. Punctures can occur on gravel roads and jeep tracks. In remote areas you may have to wait for help for hours if you can’t change a flat.

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Avoid driving at night. Game is difficult to spot in the dark, and in rural areas cattle may be crossing the road.

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Always take enough water – to drink, but also for emergencies like refilling your radiator in the unlikely event that your car overheats.

•

Take it easy. Namibian roads are for sightseeing not for speed. With so much beautiful ever-changing scenery to marvel at, don’t rush from one place to the next. Plan ahead to make sure you have enough time to reach your destination in daylight. Stop regularly and take in Namibia’s amazing landscapes. TNN

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Exploring ghost towns and rusty wrecks of the Namib Text & Photographs Le Roux van Schalkwyk

Appreciate what you have before it's gone. We often hear this phrase but how often do we have the opportunity to act on this good piece of advice? The Shipwrecks and Diamonds Tour, recently launched by Sandwich Harbour 4x4, provides an opportunity to explore decaying shipwrecks and the historical diamond mining settlements of yesteryear, now ghost towns, in the central Namib before they are completely reclaimed by the unrelenting desert.

Namibia’s coastline is notorious for bad luck when it comes to ships.

Called the Skeleton Coast, it is the graveyard of an estimated 500 ships, wrecked as a result of infamous rough seas, roaring winds, strong ocean currents and thick mists which can envelop the world in an instant.

Making it to shore didn’t improve the lot of hapless castaways either because they had to contend with the Namib Desert. Dune belts that stretch as far as the eye can see in some places and vast barren gravel plains in others, mostly devoid of any surface water.

Yet, the Namib and the adjacent Atlantic coastline have an oddly mesmerizing effect. The desert has a striking beauty that can only be fully understood once you have spent some time there, and the isolation has a way of lifting stress from weary minds like the sun dissolving the fog. Life is found in odd places, from wandering jackals on salt pans to gemsbok trekking across dunes to the fascinating array of desert plants like the endemic !Nara. It also holds tales of the shipwrecks and the hopeful diamond miners who established tiny settlements, braving the harsh elements for the lure of potential riches.

The three-day Shipwrecks and Diamonds excursion starts from Walvis Bay on a scenic journey heading south along

the coast into Namib-Naukluft Park past Sandwich Harbour, Conception Bay and Meob Bay. The route leads across epic dunes and along the beach at Langewand where massive dunes drop steeply into the Atlantic Ocean.

True to the tour’s name, participants are free to spend time exploring the shipwrecks and historical diamond mining relics of the area.

One of the wrecks along the route is the Shawnee, a transport tug stranded on a narrow stretch of beach between the ocean and the dunes. The Shawnee ran aground in mysterious circumstances in February 1976 when trying to assist a vessel in distress, the Polaris 11. Now the tug is home to a variety of seabirds. The second wreck is one of the most famous on this coast, mostly due to its odd location around 400 m inland. The 2,272 ton cargo ship Eduard Bohlen was sailing from Swakopmund to Cape Town when in thick fog it ran aground on a sandbank 500 metres from shore near Conception Bay in September 1909. As a result of the ocean forever changing the coastline, the 30 m ship now rests in the desert quite some distance from the sea – a strange sight indeed!

The second day of the excursion is spent visiting abandoned old mining settlements. The discovery of diamonds near Lüderitz in 1908 caused an uncontrollable diamond rush which brought fortune-seekers from far and wide.

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The German Colonial Government at the time proclaimed a no-entry area, a Sperrgebiet, stretching 100 km inland from the coast between 26 degrees south and the country’s southern border. This forced prospectors to move north of this area and deep into the inhospitable Namib. When diamonds were discovered at Spencer Bay and between Meob and the Conception Bay area, the small mining settlements of Holsatia, Charlottenfelder and Grillenberger were established. An incredible feat, as no form of engine-driven transport was available during the first years. Oxwagons fitted with special, wide iron bands to make it through the sandy ground were used to

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DID YOU KNOW? •

•

•

Sandwich Harbour 4x4 recently launched another two exciting excursions.

The Shipwreck Sandwich Harbour Excursion is a day tour that combines a trip to the scenic beauty and wildlife of the Kuiseb Delta and Sandwich Harbour with a visit to the Shawnee wreck.

The Sunset Photography Excursion to Sandwich Harbour offers the opportunity to capture Sandwich Harbour and the surrounding areas for the most stunning photos during the golden hour. Each tour is led by a photography guide.

transport everything from construction material to mining equipment and supplies. After the invasion of Union troops in the early stages of WWI in 1914, all of these places were abandoned.

Participants in the excursion have the opportunity to explore Fischersbrunn, a source of freshwater during the mining years, and Meob Bay which served as a landing site for people and equipment, as well as Grillenberger, Charlottenfelder and Holsatia.

Nights are spent at Namab, a rustic tented camp at Meob Bay. With its close proximity to the ocean in the west and picturesque views across the dunes to the east, it is the perfect place to decompress after each day’s adventure and experience the beauty of desert nights.

The hostile environment of pounding winds, an unforgiving sun and a high rust factor has, however, taken its toll on the buildings and wrecks over the decades. Deterioration is evident from one year to the next. This means that the time to visit and appreciate these historical time capsules, or what is left of them, is now, before they, too, will be gone forever. TNN For more info visit www.www.sandwich-harbour.com

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LÜDERITZ ...the Diamond of Namibia!

Text Bruno De Comarmond Photographs Brad Wood

Lüderitz in the far south is probably the most unique town in Namibia, if not on the entire African continent. Originally named Angra Pequena (small bay) by famous Portuguese explorer Bartolomeu Dias, who in 1487 was the first European to sail into the bay, the burgeoning settlement was renamed Lüderitzbucht in honour of German merchant Adolf Lüderitz in 1886.

L

üderitz enjoys a moderate climate. The infamous coastal mist envelopes the town perhaps on 15 days a year. This historical town, built on undulating rocky terrain, sits between the massive coastal dune belt to the north and the treacherously rocky coastline to the south.

Lüderitz boasts no less than 95 early twentieth-century German buildings, most of them Art Nouveau (Jugendstil) and all of them enjoy National Heritage status. The most striking examples are the neo-Gothic Felsenkirche (1912) and Goerke-Haus (1910). Other attractions of the small town are its waterfront development, the colourful fishing harbour – and Kolmanskop.

The world-famous Ghost Town of Kolmanskop, just 10 km away in the Namib Desert, affords visitors the opportunity to see and experience what life was like in the heyday of diamond mining in this harsh desert landscape. Back in 1912, Kolmanskop was one of the most affluent villages on the planet with impressive mansions, an enormous outdoor swimming pool, a bowling alley, entertainment hall, an ice-making factory and a hospital which was equipped with the first X-ray machine in the southern hemisphere. The tiny settlement even operated an electrified railway line to the diamond fields. Kolmanskop is a must-visit when staying over in Lüderitz.

Lüderitz is also famous for its delicious fresh seafood, harvested locally. Lüderitz oysters reputedly have the best quality in the world, and just as sought-after are abalone and rock lobster.

Local excursions include self-drive trails (4x2 and 4x4) on the wild, expansive Lüderitz Peninsula with its unique flora, solitary beaches, lagoons, bays, rocky fjords and a cave. Man-made landmarks are the Dias Cross (1488), the lighthouse and the remnants of an old whaling station. Help to protect the sensitive flora and fauna by staying on demarcated tracks and gravel roads.

Full-day 4x4 guided tours into Tsau //Khaeb National Park include southern Africa’s highest coastal rock arch, Bogenfels (59m), and the ghost town Pomona, a former tiny diamond settlement which has been deserted long since.

Catamaran tours to see one of Namibia’s largest colonies of African penguins depart from the picturesque fishing harbour daily at 08:00 – weather permitting. During this fabulous twohour tour to Halifax Island, a protected marine reserve, you will almost certainly encounter Heaviside’s dolphins, Cape fur seals and in the whale season humpbacks and southern rights.

Lüderitz is also known as the official speed windsurfing capital of the world, proclaimed as such by the World Sailing Speed Record Council (WSSRC). From 2008 to 2019, no less than 145 national and 20 world speed windsurfing and kiteboarding records have been smashed at the annual Lüderitz Speed Challenge event. The current speed windsurfing record is 53.27 knots / 98.28 kph (average speed) over 500 metres. This incredible speed was achieved by French windsurfing legend Antoine Albeau who holds twentyfive World Championship titles. For those keen on windsurfing and kiteboarding, the fantastic second lagoon and Shearwater Bay will put your skills to the test and provide hours of pure enjoyment (when the wind blows, of course).

One of Namibia’s most reputable hotels is found in Lüderitz.

The four-star Lüderitz Nest Hotel was inaugurated by the first State President in April 1998 and has hosted guests from around the world with exceptional hospitality ever since. It is the only hotel in Namibia located directly on the rocks at the sea, boasting its own tidal beach and walk-on jetty.

Sea views from every room as well as from the lounge, the bar and the restaurant are an irresistible feature of this hotel.

Its Penguin Restaurant is locally acclaimed for the best seafood, and its event centre (sea views!) is a popular venue for weddings. TNN

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The best guides in Africa are holding down the fort on a game reserve in Namibia Isaiah Kapona

Text Elzanne McCulloch I have a firm belief, after many years of travelling all over Namibia and other countries in Africa, that it is your guide who determines your experience of your visit. A guide can make or break it for you. They are the glue that holds your adventure together, and so I started to ponder… what makes a great guide?

In August, I sat down with Isaiah Kapona at Ongava Lodge after two marvelous days on Ongava Game Reserve and asked him what life as a guide is like. Kapona, as he is affectionately known, has been working on the reserve for 20 years.

WHAT ARE THE QUALITIES THAT MAKE A TOP GUIDE?

What are the qualities that make a top Guide?

The short answer: start with a great person.

The ideal safari Guide, he or she: • is comfortable with the responsibility of safety and expectation • is socially adept, alert, and responsive • can effectively interpret signs, sounds and behaviour • can deduce, plan and anticipate • can swiftly adapt as information changes • is a concise communicator, guests understand him/her • is informative, can turn the mundane into awe-inspiring • is diplomatic and tactful, capable of diffusing the knowledge and language differences between guests • is technically competent, inspires confidence by being: • physically capable • a defensive driver, possessing mechanical empathy • weapons proficient • a qualified First Responder • sensitive to photographic needs and nuances • licensed, and in possession of the required permits.

• He has a life-long commitment to learning, and • shares his or her passion for nature in a manner that resonates, thereby converting legions of visitors into ambassadors and protectors of the wilds.

Supplied by Rob Moffett of Ongava

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Ongava, the entire reserve with all four of its lodges, had been on lockdown since COVID hit last year. It only reopened in June 2021. When asked what he has been up to during this time, Kapona remarked that he and the others have been holding down the fort. A lot goes into safeguarding the natural world on a private game reserve. As much as into any national park. Having started his career at Ongava 20 years ago as a member of the anti-poaching unit, Kapona understands these needs more than most. He shares more about two decades of life on a reserve with us during our two day stay. And what a life it must be… that of a guide in Africa. The mopane bushland your office. Lion, elephant and rhino your colleagues. Nature your vocation.

So what makes a great guide? According to Kapona, a guide needs an allencompassing arsenal of skills. “You’re doing everything. You are a doctor.

You are a chef. You are a teacher. We feel like we are ambassadors for the country. A lot of people come back to Namibia over and over. Why do they come back? Because they love what we share with them. They end up loving nature as much as we do.”

Is that all though? A deep love for nature? Surely it plays a crucial role, and it is always easy to tell if someone is truly passionate about their job, but I don’t think that is the only magic ingredient. A truly spectacular guide is dedicated to his or her craft. Beyond their people skills and ability to adapt to each personality type and nationality idiosyncrasies, they put in the hours of study needed to master their knowledge and understanding of the subject matters at hand. A good guide never stops learning. He or she does not limit themselves to the Cliffs Notes or the How to sell the bush handbook. They are zoologists, ornithologists, behaviouralists, meteorologists. They are mixologists and sommeliers. They are comedians and entertainers. They are everything you need them to be, and at the end of the day a really great guide enjoys every second of it.

From basics to going into incredible detail, a truly great guide quickly determines his guests’ experience level and knowledge of the bush or country and adapts his discourse accordingly.

May your next adventure to Namibia award you with the experience of meeting your new best friend on a safari. May they wow, entertain, educate and inspire. May they instil a deep love and understanding of nature in you and plant the seeds of passion for the outdoors and all things wild that comes with an obsession with Namibia. If you are looking for the best guides in Namibia, Ongava Game Reserve is the place to start… TNN

IT’S TIME FOR THE PERFECT BEER

Not For Persons Under The Age Of 18.

Enjoy Responsibly.

October 2019

Meet the Paperbark Acacia Getting to know the trees of the northeast In this latest series we explore the beauty of trees with our beloved local nature-enthusiasts and authors, Helga and Pompie Burger. Each with a unique voice and opinions on how best to identify the trees of the Kavango and Zambezi, Helga and Pompie help us through the tricky trials of identifying northeastern Namibia’s most iconic flora.

I

come from the central highland of Namibia and are acquainted with the acacias there. The sieberiana with its papyrus-like yellow bark and green leaves was a revelation to me – I really had to work hard to ID this tree with conviction. The papery bark, bipinnately compound leaves with many (20 -40) leaflet pairs, straight white thorns, cream coloured acacia-like fluffy flower balls and the fruit are now familiar and do not easily evade my eyes anymore.

- Helga Burger We planted paperbarks at our church (20 trees, I dug almost 19 of the 20 holes), so I know them. This is a trunk tree, the yellow bark with papery flakes is unmistakeable. The paperbark thorn is relatively localised in this region, except for a few of these trees in the north-western area.

- Pompie Burger

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White thorns on older stems

November 2019

February 2020

October 2019

The yellow brown trunk is visible even from a distance

Fruit is big, thick, flat and straight

AN EASY GUIDE TO IDENTIFYING THE PAPERBARK ACACIA SCIENTIFIC NAME: Acacia sieberiana AFRIKAANS: Papierbas acacia

STRIKING FEATURES OF THE PAPERBARK ACACIA TREE

GERMAN: Papierrindenakazie

• Trunk and branches have yellow papery bark

KWANGALI: Muhengeva

• Covered with white puffball flowers in spring to summer

LOZI: Mukate

• Masses of fruit clustered on the end of the branches

MAP GUIDE Tree density in various areas

Where to find paperbark acacia in the northeast

Main road

SEASONS OF THE PAPERBARK ACACIA TREE Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

ICON GUIDE Oct

Nov

Dec

Fruit season Flower season Leaf season

DRINK & DRIVE • The yellow brown trunk is visible even from a distance • Wide spreading crown • Exposes a yellow trunk under the papery bark

STOP & STARE • Cream coloured fluffy round flowers on long stems • Dark green leaves are packed with leaflets like acacia

TOUCH & TASTE • Pairs of straight thorns are pinkish brown initially • White thorns on older stems are more visible

DOWN UNDER • Fruit is big, thick, flat and straight (sometimes curved) • Common on sandy plains close to water

This article is an extract from The unbearable beauty of trees: 56 magnificent trees of Kavango and Zambezi written

by Helga Burger, published in 2020.

To order The unbearable beauty of trees, contact Bonn at bonn@venture.com.na.

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AL Agama Lodge

www.agamalodge.com

BK Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch

www.bagatelle-kalahari-gameranch.com

OV DV

NS

NL Nkasa JB

SL

CG Corona Guest Farm

www.coronaguestfarm.com

Rupara N.P.

FS

DV Divava Okavango Resort & Spa

www.divava.com

KL

EL Etusis Lodge

www.etusis.de KN

GR

EL

FS Fort Sesfontein Lodge

www.fort-sesfontein.com

ST

GR Gecko Ridge

www.geckoridge.com.na

NV CG AL

GM Goibib Mountain Lodge

BK

www.facebook.com/GoibibMountainLodge/

LM

JB Jackalberry Tented Camp

www.jbcamp.com KN Kashana Namibia

www.kashana-namibia.com

GM

KL Kifaru Lodge

www.kifaruluxurylodge.com LM Le Mirage Resort & Spa

www.mirage-lodge.com NV Namib's Valley Lodge

www.namibsvalley.com NS Ndhovu Safari Lodge

www.ndhovu.com NL Nkasa Lupala Tented Lodge

www.nkasalupalalodge.com OV Ongula Village Homestead Lodge

www.ongulalodge.com SL Serondela Lodge

www.serondelalodge.com ST Sweet Thorn Retreat

www.sweetthornretreat.com

Hotline +264-61-224712 | +264-61-250725 | Fax: +264-88-637655 | eMail: reservation@resdest.com

CAMPING DIARIES

A story about a fridge

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rowing up my family went camping a lot. The eclectic set of camping gear included anything that could pack easily on the back of a bakkie and was sturdy enough to survive endless gravel roads and jeep tracks.

One of these items was a 32 litre Engel camping fridge with a yellowish body and light green lid, and it met all the above requirements. This thing travelled to every corner of Namibia and also saw its fair share of Zimbabwe and Botswana. Most importantly, it was the source of frozen meat for the duration of the camping trip. Only years later, when my dad upgraded to a new Engel, did I hear that the first one was quite the historical artefact.

CYMOT imported the first three Engel fridge/freezers into Namibia in 1982. Coincidentally, my family rented a house in Windhoek from Claus Theissen, then head of CYMOT. One day on a visit to the house he told my dad about this new type of portable fridge, revolutionary at the time for working with a compressor and not having to be completely level to operate.

Sold on the idea, my dad bought two, one for himself and one for his department boss, at the pricey (at the time) amount of R300. Theissen kept the other Engel for himself. With dad working as a geologist for Rössing’s exploration department, the Engel saw extensive service throughout Damaraland, Kaokoveld and Bushmanland apart from the countless family camping trips.

“In all those years the only thing that broke was the plastic power connection when I bumped it in 2010. It cost me N$400 to replace, more than the Engel,” my dad jokes.

According to my old man, the only disadvantage of this particular model is that a 750 ml bottle couldn’t stand upright. In the same breath, and quick to defend his trusted Engel, he mentions that it could fit a whole lamb except for the ribs. The trick is to pack the meat when it’s fresh and then let the Engel freeze it solid for a couple of days before leaving on your trip, and since the ribs didn’t fit, eat them on the first night.

Finally upgrading in 2015, his new Engel has also seen its fair share of travelling through Namibia and Zambia. What became of the old Engel? When he bought the new model from CYMOT, he gave his old one to the company as a historical piece. Where is it now? Word around the campfire is, it currently resides in the office of Claus Theissen’s son Axel, the current head of CYMOT. The Engel is destined to become a feature in the planned company museum.

Get your iconic Engel fridge from any CYMOT branch or from CYMOT’s safe and easy online store before setting off on your next adventure!

SHOP ONLINE. SAFE-SECURE-RELIABLE. Free Delivery for purchases of over N$ 1000.

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Hiking in the

Namib Naukluft Text Ena Visagie Photographs Le Roux van Schalkwyk, Ena Visagie & Elzanne McCulloch In my opinion the road from the coast to the Naukluft Campsite of Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR) is among the most visually charming drives in Namibia. Coming from the mostly misty coast and making your way into the sunshine of the dry, dusty desert is experiencing the diversity of Namibian landscapes first-hand! As the view through the windshield changes, so does the adventure. Prepare to stop for more than a few photo opportunities because a big part of this route runs through Naukluft National Park.

As the road gets dustier, the cell phone signal becomes weaker – this is the case with most of the beautiful, more remote places in this country. It is an opportunity for both a physical and mental breakaway from everything else that usually forms part of our routine and everyday lives. The adventure begins!

At NWR’s Naukluft Campsite there are a ton of camping spots to choose from, each with its own braai area and within walking distance of the bathroom facilities. The best spots are next to the stream, where you can cool your feet during the day and hear the bullfrogs at night. Be aware, it can get quite chilly though.

There are three different hiking trails on the NWR grounds, two of them highly recommended, and the third – well you would first have to pass a health test conducted by a GP to ensure you’re fit enough – is an eight-day hike, and it’s challenging (not speaking from my own experience)!

The hike with the largest variety of sights and sounds is the Waterkloof trail. There are numerous pools along the way, many of which are fed by streams of fresh water. You can crouch down and drink right from the stream before filling up

water bottles – those bottles are very important. The pools with water are a sort of holy grail when hiking in the African sun, to stay hydrated, yes, but also to take a dip, swim and cool down before proceeding. The hike is 17 km long.

Keep your eyes peeled for the footprints painted in yellow, left by an invisible guide, and keep an ear out to intently listen to the surroundings throughout the hike. From various bird species, frog burps, the flow of crystal clear water and leaves catching a breeze to rocks and sand under your feet and baboons on high cliffs, it really is an audio journey.

There is a massive pool at about 1.7 km into the Waterkloof trail. If you are not too eager about hiking, I highly recommend you just make your way to that first pool. With a few drinks and snacks you can spend a leisurely hour or so in and next to the chilly body of fresh water. The pool itself and the surroundings are… au naturel. Please remember not to leave any bottles or packaging behind – take them back with you for proper disposal. Continuing on the 17 km hike: it is very rich in trees for quite a distance. Lots of shade courtesy of the tall trees, but steer clear of thorn bushes along your way.

Around the latter section of the first half of the hike the tall trees disappear and the trail opens up onto a plateau dotted with camel thorn trees. From there it is a taxing ascent to the highest point of the route. When on top you are awarded with a 360-degree panoramic view of myriads of mountains, one rolling out of the other as far as the eye can see. A special place to spend a few minutes, take it all in and realise that no camera can do justice to this experience.

Onto the descent, a couple of last pools and a very long way down a massive (dry) riverbed.

This hike is challenging and shouldn’t be recommended to anyone with knee or ankle problems. But as much as it is exhausting, it is every bit as rewarding, every second of it. After the hike, however, the biggest reward, even before heading to the showers, is cracking an ice-cold Namibian Tafel Lager. TNN

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Epic Namibia

Text Rièth van Schalkwyk Photographs Le Roux van Schalkwyk

Through the ages explorers have inspired mankind with accounts of their travels. Those with an adventurous spirit who read about these journeys were enthralled and tempted to travel and experience far-off places for themselves. But alas, that was an impossible quest except for a fortunate few.

T

hese days travel writers inspire their readers with words and with photographs of wondrous places. With the click of a button the most amazing images of practically any secret place in the world can be discovered by almost everyone without lifting as much as a finger. In today’s world exploring has become part of our lives as we travel on our smart phones. It allows us to dream and get lost in the reality of someone else’s experience.

The pandemic of the past two years has proven, however, that all the beautiful descriptions with the perfect set of adjectives and the most incredible images cannot replace the sense of place. The sense of sounds and smells and that unfathomable sense of wellbeing when you come to a place that you have dreamt of and the reality lives up to your expectations.

Namibia is such a place.

It is a challenge to find the right words to describe our land, even for those of us who are fortunate to live here and be exposed to the many facets of all seasons and temperaments.

The extremes of hot and dry, cold and stormy, misty, windy, soft and soothing, quiet and dreamy. The “right” words sound pretentious. Trying to describe the ruggedness that becomes smooth in the last light of the setting sun or a gemsbok charging down the slip face of a dune in a cloud of red dust can hardly convey the magic of that moment. Only once you have seen the beauty with your own eyes will words reflect the true nuances.

Maybe poets will convey the spirit of this country of endless horizons more effectively than writers. However, the ultimate pleasure is to experience the liberating feeling of a modernday explorer. With the help of all the little comforts such as electronic maps and mobile phones, a GPS, a four-wheel drive vehicle with a fridge and a rooftop tent and, of course, fuel on most routes and cell phone coverage nearly everywhere – this is possible in Namibia.

Why not escape the confines and stressful life of a big city for a few weeks of freedom? Discover the natural beauty

and the adventures of a sparsely populated country on a different continent.

All it takes is to board a plane, put your luggage in the back of a four-wheel drive vehicle at the airport. Note the instructions of how to open the rooftop tent and change a tyre. Then stock the camping fridge and take to the open road leading out of the capital in any direction. Better still, take a gravel road and leave “civilization” behind within less than an hour.

Tarred roads are convenient, but do not always offer the best setting for that liberating feeling.

Namibia is a go-slow destination. That is, if you want to explore and not just tick off a list. The journey is truly the destination. Even if you plan to visit at least the obvious highlights from the first chapter in your travel guide it will take you deep into all four corners and beyond.

For that you need time. Not only to marvel at the vistas, but also to go closer and notice the detail and textures of stone and rock, trees and the tiniest flowers. A secret quality of Namibia is the light. Not only for photographers. Driving through a landscape just after sunrise is much more satisfying than having a full breakfast. Be on the road before sunrise.

Be settled wherever you go well before sunset to enjoy the golden hour before and after. Dinner should be by candlelight or around an open fire anyway.

If I had only three weeks and one opportunity in a lifetime to visit Namibia, where would I go? That is the most difficult decision especially for someone like me who loves detours and digression.

If you want to follow in my footsteps I don’t promise you the Big Five or the top ten highlights but you will have seen Namibia’s ruggedness, the naturalness, the soul of the land and you will feel liberated whether you fly over it or drive through it.

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I will start in the far northeast which is part of Namibia only because of the crazy way in which the colonial powers cut up the continent. That decision worked out well for Namibia. As a result, the water-rich Zambezi Region with its rivers, lush vegetation, enormous trees, great birding and fishing adds a wonderful dimension to the rest of the country’s dramatic landscapes. Zambezi also provides a perfect introduction to Namibia’s community involvement in tourism and conservation.

The 2-hour flight from Eros Airport in Windhoek takes us to Katima Mulilo where the 4x4 is ready and the adventure begins. Our flight will land early in the morning and we immediately board a small aircraft. No time to waste. We may catch the Carmine Bee-eaters’ return to nest in the riverbanks, or hundreds of elephants crossing the river from Angola to Namibia on their way to Botswana. Buffalo congregate on the flood plains and disappear into the woodland. Hippos move in and out of the river and Fish Eagles keep watch on tall trees.

And in the hazy dust, as the sun sinks lower, a young man herds his cattle to a kraal. The locals get on with their lives while the animals follow ancient routes to water and grazing, unperturbed by borders and people. Believe me when I say that we can stay here for three weeks and not be bored. We haven’t even started on the flowers and the different natural occurrences in different seasons.

A little detour on our way west to see what the flat land of the Aawambo people has to offer with its tall Makalani Palm trees and traditional villages dotting the landscape. People, domestic animals and human activity. But again, there is no time to discover more because the days are ticking by.

We exit through the King Nehale Gate to a peaceful paradise and the rule of wild animals. Etosha. White dust, thorn trees and a grey blue sky. Noah’s Arc has just opened before our eyes. Gemsbok, springbok, blue wildebeest, zebra, kudu, elephant, black-faced impala, jackal, hyena, birds of prey, flamingos, little ones, brown ones – too many birds to name.

Giraffes eat yellow blossoms off the grey thorn trees. Black rhinos drink at the waterhole in the dark sharing the space with elephant herds. Lions roar at night and in the day sometimes rest next to the road for all to see. Why do we have to leave so soon?

Westwards. Our destination is the Brandberg where ancient peoples left evidence of their presence on rocks, and where the rising sun still paints the mountain pink every morning.

Along the Ugab’s dry riverbed and its open-air cathedral of vertical rock faces we go. Northwards to meet desert elephants in the shade of Ana trees in the Huab River valley.

Zambezi Region

Then turn south past villages where people live hard lives with wildlife which often destroys their meagre livelihoods. Take note that there are no fences. No barriers. Freedom to roam freely for man and beast. Look out for the otherworldly forms of trees, plants and shrubs on sand and rocky mountains.

There is a whole world to be discovered still but we have to turn back south again towards the ocean and the Skeleton Coast, famous for shipwrecks and hardships. The cool southwesterly wind tells the opposite to a traveller exiting heat and dust. Flat gravel plains and endless beaches soothe the soul.

We pass the place where Portuguese seafarers planted their stone cross and thousands of seals congregate now. Inland again to scale Spitzkoppe and watch the full moon rise. From now on the nights get darker and the stars seem brighter as the moon rises one hour later every night.

Swakopmund on the coast is halfway between north and south and it is also the middle of this journey. A breather to stock up, cool down, stroll through shops and restaurants and enjoy the German colonial style architecture. If you are used to sand deserts, you may think that the Namib is the same as what you know about, but it isn’t. Ours is a living desert. Take a tour into the dunes with an expert guide if you need convincing.

This holiday town offers a myriad of fun things to do. But on this epic journey there will be no time for frivolities like skydiving and sandboarding, camel rides or ski-boat fishing.

An exception may be a scenic flight along the Skeleton Coast all the way north to the Kunene River to enjoy a bird’s eye view of where we passed through those previous few days.

Perhaps the only opportunity to see the Epupa Falls and villages of the nomadic Himba people who still adhere to their traditional lifestyles.

We continue from Swakop to Walvis Bay on a road wedged between the dunes and the sea. Two of only four towns along a coastline of almost two thousand kilometres. With the exception of these towns the entire coast is national park or conservation areas. No wonder that Namibia can boast to have 46 percent of its land protected in some form of conservation management.

Day trips to one of the famous Ramsar Sites – Sandwich Harbour – are among the options in Walvis Bay. The drive through towering dunes and along deserted beaches is a treat, as is the idea of thousands upon thousands of birds migrating there to breed. Not to mention the fish.

But there is no time for a detour.

Etosha National Park

Zambezi Region

Spreetshoogte

Swakopmund Jetty

Damaraland

Spitzkoppe

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The only way to fully appreciate the magnificence of this site, is by taking a scenic flight.

Deadvlei

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Along the gravel plains of the desert, covered in parts with yellow grass during good rain cycles, we travel past turnoffs to Mirabib, Vogelfederberg and Gemsbokwater. But no stopping to look at these archaeological sites or watch the moon rise late at night, listen to the barking geckos and lie on our backs to gaze at the milky way in the darkest sky in the world. Instead, through the Gramadoelas, the undulating landscape on either side of the Kuiseb River, and then down to cross the dry riverbed en route to Sossusvlei and Deadvlei and the Sesriem Canyon. Where the ephemeral rivers disappear in the dunes, lies the World Heritage Site called the Namib Sand Sea. The only way to fully appreciate the magnificence of this site, is by taking a scenic flight.

The best we can do on foot is to walk the few kilometres into Deadvlei and up the closest, highest dune for the world famous views of which millions of selfies have been sent.

The deep south is calling and with it the world’s biggest private nature reserve, NamibRand, where 30 years ago a visionary had a dream to preserve nature for future generations. For many of us the most beautiful road in Namibia is the C26. The landscape is breath-taking in all directions, even more so in the soft light of early morning or late afternoon. So we time our departure well. Where the C26 meets the B4 we turn towards the coast again to the place where the first diamond was discovered more than a century ago. Lüderitz is a quaint little village. The ghost town Kolmanskop a photographer’s dream and the history of the rush and ruin of diamonds an interesting and unexpected story for explorers. It will certainly spruce up your diary. But best of all: we can now enter the Sperrgebiet, a vast area previously off limits for anybody but the company which mines for diamonds. That is another story for dinner with crayfish and oysters while looking out on the aquamarine water of the deepest bay on Namibia’s coast. We cannot miss a trip to Bogenfels and the little mining villages almost covered in desert sand. In a few years our journey will definitely include a few extra days in Tsau //Khaeb National Park to experience an untouched piece of desert.

To travel from Lüderitz to our southern border, the Orange River, we may have to wait a few years. There is no direct road. In the meantime we turn inland and eastward to another landmark – the Fish River Canyon. We have the option to stay on the western bank or drive around the canyon and stay east. Or do both. One thing that is not included in a threeweek itinerary is the 90-km hike through the canyon to the hot springs at Ai-Ais. Athletes “do” the Fish for all kind of reasons, but to be that close to nature combined with a certain level of danger is exhilarating.

There are many charming places to stay along the way, each offering a range of activities and stories: a ‘forest’ of quiver trees among rocks, a large collection of lithops (succulents resembling stones) or a walk along the edge of the canyon.

We are pressed for time now, because going slow inevitably means days lost along the way. And we don’t want to rush back to our starting point taking the way of least resistance, i.e. straight on the tarred B1. There is more to see en route north to Windhoek than speeding past Brukkaros, although if we had another two days I would have liked to camp there with you and walk to the rim of the crater. Maybe see the end of the rainbow as I did, which confirmed that the pot of gold is not there.

So back on the gravel to Helmeringhausen, towards the Naukluft. Again I would love to take you on a hike to see the interesting trees and rock formations, but we have no days left. You will have to believe me when I point out the tufa called Blasskrans because it looks like the white mark on the head of a horse, or the moringa trees with their white stems, the gold of kobas trees or corkwoods.

Over Remhoogte Pass on the last stretch, but with a quick detour from Nauchas to Spreetshoogte for one last view across the endless expanse and the layers of mountains to watch the sun sink reluctantly behind the horizon.

Epic Namibia. TNN

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ELEVATE YOUR LIFE

It gave me nothing I expected, but it gave me everything I needed.

Hiking the Fish River Canyon in 4 nights and 5 days Text & Photographs Stephanie Mohrmann DAY 1: THE DESCENT How does one describe that moment when you shoulder your backpack with everything you think you need for the next 4 nights and 5 days?

And the feeling when taking that first step into the awe-inspiring Fish River Canyon. A step into an unfamiliar world. Is it fear, excitement, anxiety, eagerness, adrenaline, or just blank emotion? The best description I can relate this feeling to is when I did my first bungee jump off Bloukrans Bridge back in 2007. I felt everything and nothing.

With less than 7 weeks to plan before the descent on 29 May 2021, I was happy to find a reliable and true-hearted companion to accompany me on my dream journey. I was surprised by how many people around me have hiked it several times before, leaving me questioning my life choices and wondering if I have worked hard enough to fulfil my dreams? I guess sometimes things just work out when they are meant to. Perhaps in the past, I would not have appreciated this hike as much as I do now?

Does my guardian angel allow my dreams to become reality once I reach a certain mental and physical maturity? Whatever it may be, today I bathe in my happiness and indescribable emotions. But let me show you this magnificent place. It was the time of my life!

As I took the first step into the descent of the second largest canyon in the world, I had no idea what to expect. From the start, I thanked my body’s flexible and mobile capabilities, as well as the strength I had in my “stokkie” legs. Training and staying fit surely does come in handy. The geography and beautiful flowers made me think of specific individuals back home. But as I took the time to stare at their beauty, I was also in the present moment.

I was astonished when we reached ground zero and I could fill my water bottle with fresh water from the river. Here I am, drinking fresh river water in the harsh desert. Around 4 PM, after hiking for 3 km, we settled down in a lovely river bend, First Rest Pools.

The adrenalin, the heat and the energy spent on the first day were glorious reasons to celebrate with a swim in the river pools. We set up camp in a crawly-proof sleep space and felt how each vertebra cracked as we lay down to sleep under the Milky Way. DAY 2: THE UNEXPECTED DISTANCE Luckily, no critters! Our makeshift camp worked. Our Mr Price -5° sleeping bags kept us warm and my Little Mermaid sleep mask kept the moonlight out. I woke up as the sun gently touched the ridges of the 500 metre-high canyon walls. My normal day starts at 5 AM, so to wake up at 7 AM “canyon time” is a massive

sleep-in achievement for me. Still snuggled in my sleeping bag, I took the opportunity to thank my body, my energy and my safety, absorbing everything around me.

As we sip our coffee, enthusiastic “good morning” cheers are exchanged with fellow hikers walking past our camp. We took it slow this morning, assuming we did a good stretch the day before and relaxed for lunch at the famous Vespa bike. We soon realised that we barely completed 3 km on the first day.

Eish, my mind started racing as I calculated the kilometres for the coming days.

Because we had to climb over several Middle-earth Mordor-type rocks, traverse giant Ghibli-shaped boulders on all fours and trudge along beaches through soft dune sand, we averaged a mere 1 km per 45 minutes. Are we walking backwards in time?

Chatting to a legendary hiker who has done this hike eight times, we were reassured that the first two days are slow and challenging, both mentally and physically.

Two hours before sunset I got a blast of energy as we missioned through this merciless yet magical scenery before reaching our target camp, Sulphur Springs, shortly after sunset. Drained by the 8 km day, we were too tired to explore the springs. We focused only on building our critter-proof shelter and having a warm astronaut dinner around my green fairy lights for a makeshift “campfire”. The manic solifugae that raced past our bare feet sent us to bed straight after dinner.

As the sweet relief of the Tiger Balm started working its magic on my tired shoulders, I chuckled silently thinking back on the comments from my hiker mates who wondered how I still managed to squat down in Malasana pose to take photos of the flowers on this laborious day. Let’s not picture how I got out of the yoga squat position, though...

DAY 3: STUNNING RIVER, HORRIBLE WEATHER Waking up to the sound of the Sulphur Springs' stream is surreal. Again I slept until 7 AM – I must have been tired. It is bizarre to find a stream here that is a hot 57 °C! A few pools down, where hot and cold water mix, I managed to reward my feet with a warm bath.

Today’s weather was inhospitable, with cold windy flushes.

Think of the worst coastal east wind conditions, but at freezing temperatures. I got a good face scrub today and I ate more sand than food. Dramatic dust swivelled around us as the wind cleared our footsteps instantly after each step – but there was magic everywhere. The beauty of today’s rivers, boulders, the wide stretches of water and ever-changing scenery took my breath away.

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Beaten by the harsh weather, we camped at Sand Against Slopes. I had a moment of panic, thinking a dune might cover me by the morning. How could I sleep in this weather? I trudged on with nervous yet hopeful energy to see what the Mordor rocks around the bend had in store, hoping for better shelter against the wind. I made my friends move – I couldn’t sleep in the dunes and sand after our 16 km day. We settled in a small curved “hole” between the bigger rocks. Heating dinner with our gas cooker became creative too, but we managed between narrow crevasses (again, me doing yoga squats). Curled around rocks, all you could see was an S-shaped sleeping bag, a green beanie, a Little Mermaid face mask, and a mummified face wrapped with my blue sarong. To my surprise, it was the best sleep I had during the entire hike.

DAY 4: UP AND DOWN “We made it through the night!” was my first thought. And, surprisingly, I felt refreshed and ready for the slog along the river.

Perhaps the wind blew away what I had to let go of in my mind?

Our mission was to start at 8 AM and reach Cornelius Camp before sunset. A 19 km hike over boulders and mountains.

Today I had long moments of a peaceful mind and clear headspace. Everyone had a survival mantra, a song, a word, a phrase, and a camp goal. I found a Converse All Stars shoeprint on our path and was amazed that this hiker is walking with sneakers. Finding this shoeprint gave me a sense of direction and I was comforted by our shared goals. Now I grin when thinking back. This shoeprint became my mantra, encouraging me to walk stronger every time I found it.

The shortcuts we took gave us gorgeous mountain views and rewarded us with a real sense of achievement. Every climb tested my single leg lunge strength. We hiked ahead of the group with tenacious energy, looking for paths and safe boulder crossings and possible camp spots. Hopefully, I inspired my companions, as my perseverance to reach our target kilometres was in full stride.

We reached our target camp two hours earlier than expected and decided to trudge on and smash some extra kilometres whilst the sun and our energy still held up. Not confident about how much

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further we could go and if we would find a satisfactory camp, we settled on one of the most beautiful beaches right at the river with clean water. Pink Palace after a 22 km day. Our second relaxed evening meant we had daylight to set up camp, bath and make food without a rush or challenging weather. Whilst sipping on hot chai chocolate tea, I showed my mates the Southern Cross, Orion’s Belt, and we watched how the enormous Scorpio rose higher in the night sky.

DAY 5: AM I “GATVOL” OR DO I WANT MORE? “Life is getting up an hour early to live an hour more.” – Unknown At 5:30 AM, before the birds started chirping, we got ready. This was the coldest morning of all. I kept my thermo wear on until about 9 AM, just after we crossed the river after Bandage Pass.

To our surprise, we had one more Middle-earth Mordor boulder challenge in front of us. Thankfully, the rock formations distracted me from my mood – maybe I was hungry? I was also wondering if my left pinkie toe was starting to chafe.

The last few kilometres were paved with signs, random words written with rocks and then a smiley face. Before we tackled the last 5 km, we parked under a big tree and emotionally prepared ourselves for the end. The end of nature, the end of silence, the end of a simple day where the most important thing was food and shelter.

We finished the 16 km for the day walking into Ai-Ais at exactly 13:33 PM on 2 June 2021. My first words to my family and friends were: “Made it. #timeofmylife. Only broke 2 plastic spoons.”

I expected a bunch of emotions to flush over me and imagined breaking down in tears as I entered Ai-Ais. However, only adrenaline rushed through me as we “cheersed” our beers with each other. Heck, walking barefoot on cold tiles feels amazing!

But behold, waking up the next morning in clean white sheets, my emotions took full control of me. I wanted silence, I wanted no haste, I needed solitude to digest and process this experience. Some say this hike is an achievement, an accomplishment. I am still unsure what it did for me. It is

amazing to realise what your capabilities are and to appreciate the little things you need in a day.

How do I feel now? Reflection and writing helped to process the journey. I have taken two solitude days in my flat to write everything down and to keep the memory alive. You are reading the short version. I would recommend others to explore themselves in this pristine desert canyon in Namibia, or anywhere else in the world. I am amped knowing more adventures are waiting for me and eager to learn what every journey will teach me. There is a lesson in everything.

No doubt, I would do this hike again in a heartbeat.

Serious suggestion: Walk with someone who has done it before.

Best decision: Borrowing a First Ascent thermal liner (weight: 200g).

Snack tip: Grenade protein bar (20g protein per serving, sugar-free and healthy carbs from rice and oats).

Highly recommended: Electrolytes, at least two a day.

CAMPING GEAR The -5°C sleeping bag plus lightweight bag liner from Mr Price for N$500 worked perfectly fine. Our tent was a mozzie net. We dug our walking sticks into the ground at the top end and collected two shorter sticks for the lower end to create a structure.

COOKING EQUIPMENT We only had a gas cooker, kettle and two cups. Our plastic yoghurt Tupperware served as packaging for our food and as bowls to eat from. Packing multi-purpose items makes a lot of sense.

WALKING STICK I never imagined how handy this third leg would be! Wooden sticks available from truck port woodworkers for N$50.

SHOES I struggle to rate specialised hiking boots which gave some hikers blisters on day 2, whereas I had my oldest Altra runners on and William his Rocky Phoenix hiking sandals with zero problems up to day 5. So, what is your most comfortable walking shoe?

Sneakers, maybe?

FITNESS Anyone can do this hike, but do you want to enjoy it? I recommend working on endurance, a bit of mobility and balance.

Our diverse group was evidence that age means nothing. I valued my all-round fitness, as I could balance longer, reach further, step harder, and had no aches or pains in my legs for the entire journey. This is not to say that an unfit person will not be able to finish the hike, but I am looking from a perspective of how a hiker can enjoy the experience more by preventing aches and injuries.

FOOD SUMMARY Breakfast: Quick oats, almond butter, granola bar, whey protein and an instant cappuccino.

Lunch: Tuna, rice cakes and biltong.

Dinner: The first dinner was roasted potato, butternut and boiled eggs (prepared at home). Two dinners consisted of Trek’n Eat powder food, lots of quick rice noodles and Rauchfleisch.

The last dinner was Cup-A-Soup, quick rice noodles and Rauchfleisch. For dessert, I had a Grenade protein bar.

Snacks: Hammer Gel (two per day), apple, Salticrax, biltong and two electrolyte sachets per day.

WHAT I WOULD CHANGE NEXT TIME More protein bars (not granola bars, as this is sugar). Protein helps with muscle recovery and fills the belly for longer. And a ground sheet for a bigger sand-free surface to sleep on. TNN

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Etosha Babies Text & Photographs Anja Denker

A tender and unforgettable moment on this recent visit to the park: a rubbery, small black rhino baby bouncing across the dusty road after the bulky, protective mass of its mother.

What can be more endearing than the sight of babies? Let me try: Wildlife babies! Springtime is upon us, and the Etosha National Park has experienced a prolific rainy season this year, lasting well into April and an important contributing factor in ensuring plenty of water, food and shelter for a healthy baby boom. Antelope, wildebeest and zebra are able to delay giving birth to their offspring until the conditions are just right, and right they certainly are. A plethora of wildlife babies are romping across the vast, grassy plains – antelope, wildebeest, zebra and giraffe – still on wobbly legs, but with big eyes that observe the wide, wild and wonderful world around them.

Cape Fox pup

Curious black-backed jackal, bat-eared fox and Cape fox pups emerge from the safety of their dens and burrows to scout the area around them and engage in vigorous play with their siblings.

Spotted hyena cubs look like fat, cuddly teddy bears with black fur, making way for lighter hair as they grow older.

A zebra foal, all legs and stripes, sticks close to its mother – the young are easy prey for any predator.

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Leopard cub

Little spotted hyena cubs

Cape Fox pup

Zebra foal

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Lion cubs

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Termite mounds and tree trunks are very popular with little lion, cheetah and even leopard cubs who like to use the high vantage point to pounce on their exasperated parents and siblings, and engage in a vigorous game of tag and chase.

Elephant calves are a source of endless entertainment when they discover their trunks... or their spunk! Chasing after birds or objects often much larger than themselves, they are confident that Mom and the rest of the herd will come to their rescue!

New life, new beginnings, with the hope that many of the youngsters will survive nature’s gauntlet of life and death…TNN Elephant calf chasing a Blacksmith Lapwing

Cheetah cub

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Living in the land of sand and freedom

Driving on empty Text & Photographs Lee Tindall

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O

ne of our favourite activities every year is the annual vulture tagging. We have been participating since 2016, at which point one child was two and the other five.

The first time we joined this outing we hadn’t yet met everyone involved, but had made telephonic arrangements to meet the team at Sesriem. Of course, with small kids, we ended up running slightly late but eventually arrived and were told that the guys had gone ahead and we could probably catch up with them. We did manage to catch up just as the lead car (the one with the ladder and all the equipment) turned onto a private road, strictly closed to the public. The occupants of our car all gave a huge sigh of relief and the adrenaline rush ebbed away. We were the fourth vehicle in the convoy. Our relief and adrenaline break was short lived, however. Vehicle one stopped and a tall, lanky man unfolded himself from the car and stalked over to our vehicle. We realised he wasn’t sure who we were and assumed that we were tourists who had decided to tag along with them. After we had introduced ourselves it was official: We were part of the convoy and on our way!

The first attempt went smoothly by all accounts – as newbies we had no idea anyway. We simply knew we were with some of the greats of vulture tagging, some of them people who had seen me in my underwear at age 2 (it happens more often than I like that people I speak to tend to remember my lack of clothing and reluctance to wear any, my genuine hate of footwear and my white-blonde hair. Some of this may have changed.) A dear friend was with us. At that time we had not known each other for long – she was not a fan of two-legged small ones, and I wasn’t sure how we would all get on. But she had elements I enjoyed. Fortunately, our vulture tagging expedition cemented our relationship and was the first of many magical memories!

We watched as the pros unfolded a car mirror on an extendable pole and checked for action in the nest seven metres above.

Once occupation of the nest was confirmed, the ladder was offloaded and a retriever sent up with a specially made bag (high tech stuff this, canvas cloth and leather handles) to protect the bird, the retriever and allow for climbing up and down the ladder safely. The birds being tagged are not yet able to fly, making it much easier. Once a bird was tagged, measured and recorded it was returned to its nest and our convoy continued on its way.

At some point we stopped for lunch. We had all been asked to bring our own and to make sure we had enough sustenance.

Above all, do not forget the kids – who loved bananas while I was packing the snack bag at home, in a kitchen with many options, and then decided that they hated bananas while we were parked in the middle of nowhere, with nothing other than bananas available. Remember, fun! The lunch spot was chosen, many trees make for a lot of shade on hot days and this was perfect. There was some chatter as we all ate our bananas and sandwiches and then went to rest under the trees for a minute.

I was watching folks sitting there, shaking their feet, wriggling their legs and gradually we all realised that this was caused by ticks! Tampans, to be precise. Of course, anyone who knows this feeling, knows it never leaves you again and you will forever feel this light irritating tingle on your skin and you will forever scratch.

Needless to say, this put an end to our casual, wild lunch.

We had a few birds left to look for, which went smoothly and so well that we all forgot to keep track of time, or diesel.

At some point Murray realised that our diesel was below the empty mark. We were driving on the reserve tank. We asked how much longer this route was and how many more kilometres we had to go. There was some umming and ahhing, and not a lot of real info, which was not great. We knew that if we could make it to Sesriem we could refuel, have a cold one and an ice cream for the kids (both big and small).

The longest 30 minutes followed. We joked our way through it, kept looking at the gauge while pretending we weren’t.

Driving on fumes (the car as well as its occupants), we pulled into Sesriem. The car was parked, beers were bought and ice creams were liberally handed out and smeared all over little faces. Our little ones don’t fully recall this day, but luckily they have us to remember it for them and to laugh about the beginning of things.

As time has moved, as we all have aged with each year that has come around, the understanding and enjoyment has changed.

The team who does the tagging, some of my favourite humans, has spent years teaching the kids and us, as well as anyone willing to learn. With only a few months left before tagging for 2021 starts, excitement is already building! TNN

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Tolis Fragoudis

Conscious about how we

treat this world Tolis Fragoudis is a Greek-Swiss photographer, filmmaker and keynote speaker based in Zurich, Switzerland. He runs his own production company, TolisArt, working as a creative director for international companies, sports events, tourism and corporate clients. His biggest passion is storytelling, and he travels the world to explore the beauty of culture, nature and humans. His documentary Spiritual India is a deep and emotional look at Indian culture, but he has also produced other works while travelling through Nepal, Mexico, Greece, Italy, Switzerland, Norway and, more recently, Namibia.

He firmly believes that humans naturally do not want to destroy beautiful things and he considers it his duty to inspire others to become conscious about how we treat this world. Photography and filmmaking are very strong instruments, and when used in the right way, they can contribute towards a better world. Tolis says: “If people flower from within, they clearly understand how they are connected to everything.”

Tolis spent almost a month in Namibia with his girlfriend, Regine, and used the opportunity to put his new Sony equipment to the test. He also did some location scouting with the idea to discover Namibia’s potential as a destination for photo tours. These are images from his trip.

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PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE

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PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE

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Discover Namibia with Ondili

Desert Homestead Lodge

Kalahari Red Dunes Lodge

KALAHARI

With its rolling red dunes and scattered camel thorn trees, the Kalahari Desert is the younger of Namibia’s two deserts. It stretches across Namibia, Botswana and South Africa over an estimated area of 900 000 km². It is regarded as the traditional homeland of the indigenous San people, the country’s oldest inhabitants, famous for their hunter-gatherer way of life.

The best way to truly feel the intense nature experience that the Kalahari offers is to go on a guided overnight Trans Kalahari Walk. Feel the connection with the earth as you watch from atop a dune how antelope herds graze on the vast grassy plains. After the day’s rewarding hike, enjoy a night by campfire under the glittering stars at the cosy but luxurious dune camp.

Experience the magic of the Kalahari with a stay at Kalahari Red Dunes Lodge or Teufelskrallen Tented Lodge.

Teufelskrallen’s tent houses are located on the first western Kalahari dune and offer guests a panoramic view over the endless expanse of the Kalahari’s dunes. Only 200 km from the capital Windhoek, Kalahari Red Dunes Lodge is a quaint lodge with individually and lovingly designed guestrooms that offer guests the true sense of the space and beauty of the Kalahari Desert.

NAMIB

The world’s oldest desert at an estimated 55 million years old, the Namib is a place that enchants visitors from all over. It is world-famous for the picturesque Deadvlei with its bleached clay pan, ancient dead camel thorn trees and massive orange dunes that surround it. The Namib Sand Sea, boasting several dunes higher than 300 metres, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2013.

Become intimately acquainted with the Namib and its incredible fauna and flora by going on a sleep-out ride on the

stunning, Ondili owned, private nature reserve adjacent to the Namib-Naukluft National Park. Explore this incredibly scenic section of the Namib from the back of a horse. After the ride, a simple yet luxurious tented camp awaits – the ideal setting for a delightful night spent under a star-lit desert sky.

Desert Homestead Lodge is famous for its horse safaris and is the perfect starting point for tours into Sossusvlei and its surroundings. Experience the tranquillity and expanse of the desert landscape in the utmost luxury and style at Desert Homestead Outpost.

ERONGO

The Erongo Mountains form part of one of the most impressive areas in the country. The landscape is characterised by 2000-metre-high mountains of volcanic origin and rivers that carry water all year round, offering breath-taking panoramic views. The spectacular geological formations like the Boulder Forest as well as excellent birding and game watching opportunities make this area an excellent choice for nature lovers.

Embrace the wonders of this area with an Erongo Nature Excursion. After a short drive, a guided hike leads guests to the most interesting landscape of the farm, characterised by spectacular rock formations and fascinating vegetation.

On the hike, guests learn about the geological highlights of the Erongo mountains, the semi-precious stones such as tourmaline and aquamarine that are mined here as well as the ancient San rock paintings found in the area.

Hohenstein Lodge is located at the foot of the highest peak of the Erongo mountains. The evenings here are known for spectacular sunsets that bathe the mountain in a fantastic red glow. The view over the vast landscape extends as far as the Spitzkoppe peak, protruding as a prominent relief from the plain.

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Erongo Nature Excursion

DAMARALAND

Situated in the northwest of Namibia, Damaraland is known for its definitive landscapes. The area offers numerous places worth visiting that range from viewing desert-adapted wildlife to learning more about the past, present and ancient cultural heritage of the area.

Visit Twyfelfontein, where guests can see the UNESCO World Heritage Site of over 2000 rock engravings and drawings.

These graphic representations are thousands of years old and allow a glimpse into the lives of the people who inhabited this area centuries ago.

Go on a game drive into the dry Huab River and search for the impressive desert-adapted elephants and other game.

Guests will not only learn more about the amazing animals and plants that inhabit the area but also about the interesting geological features.

Twyfelfontein Adventure Camp is nestled in rolling boulders of a granite outcrop, perfectly located only a ten-minute drive from Twyfelfontein Rock Engravings, within walking distance of the Damara Living Museum and in the Huab River Valley. A stylish and extremely comfortable tented camp from where Damaraland can be explored.

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Twyfelfontein Adventure Camp

ETOSHA

Etosha National Park is Namibia’s greatest wildlife sanctuary and the most visited destination in Namibia besides Sossusvlei. The park derives its name from the massive 4 730 km² Etosha salt pan. It is so large it can be seen from space and is one of the largest pans on earth.

The park is a hotspot for a variety of game – anything from rhino and elephant to lions and leopards.

Take a guided drive into the park in an all-terrain vehicle with one of Ondili’s expert guides. Ondili’s guides have an intimate knowledge of the wildlife in Etosha and will give guests the ultimate safari experience, getting close to elephants and rhinos, giraffes and lions, meerkats and flamingos.

Situated on a 5000-hectare game reserve that shares a 10 km border with the Etosha, Etosha Oberland Lodge combines luxury and style with the utmost privacy. Enjoy the exquisite dining experience, relax by the infinity pool or sip on a drink while spotting game at one of the many private seating spots. TNN

Etosha Oberland Lodge

Damaraland

this time from the ground

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READER'S STORY

Text & Photographs Sandra Windisch

B

efore joining the corporate airline world, my husband and I did bush flying for 12 years in Namibia, Angola and Botswana. Now that our girls turned six and seven, we were ready to explore Damaraland differently this time – from the ground with our Amarok and camping trailer.

We were eager to show the girls where Mom and Dad spent a lot of time in their younger days, landing on hard-to-find runways with no windsocks and looking more like old jeep tracks, if anything.

Routing the trip was easy: limited hours spent travelling per day, a nice pool for the girls every other day and as many backroads as possible. We decided to take a satellite phone along to put friends and family somewhat at ease, because even when able to reach the outside world quickly, help would still be days away.

Starting from our home in Swakopmund, we headed for our first stop, the Brandberg White Lady Lodge for two nights. We set up camp under huge old acacia trees right next to the river.

Driving up the Ugab River we did not see any elephants, but we did see a black cape cobra catch a puffadder. Well, hubby and kids did. I looked the other way.

Day 3 brought us to Palmwag campsite, our base for the next two nights. Our campsite had a lovely view over the red hills of

Damaraland and the spring in front of the lodge. The girls found two cats and soon the four of them were inseparable, going everywhere together.

On day 5 we were geared for no reception and headed into the rough and rugged landscapes of the Palmwag Concession.

This is true wilderness – a protected area that covers 550 000 hectares – and is home to, amongst others, endangered black rhino and elephants.

This was our longest day, in every way. We travelled 90 km in 6 hours. The girls were troopers, never complaining, instead counting zebras and giraffes and dressing up their Barbie dolls.

We entered the Palmwag Concession at the northernmost gate and stopped at C5 that evening, on a hill overlooking a valley of red stones, with the well-known tabletops in the distance.

Day 6 took us past lovely green grass fields from the rain two weeks earlier. We saw herds of animals and lots of Welwitschias. We decided to go west into the mighty Hoanib River and after a few kilometres, we saw two giraffes and elephant bulls. That night we camped in the Obias Valley under a huge cliff. Perfect for the girls to climb, and for us to have shade.

On day 7 we had plenty of elephant sightings. On the way back to camp we came across a Land Cruiser with a young Swiss couple, also on their own. When asked how they ended up in this part of the world, they answered: “You can only do Etosha once.”

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During that night, a very hot and dry wind was blowing and it was impossible to fall asleep. I did for a split second think back of all the grand lodges, equipped with fans and aircons, where we used to stay as pilots. But you were always alone. To be able to be in nature with my own little tribe seemed like first prize, even with the hot wind blowing right onto my face.

On day 9 the Kaokoveld was calling. Up the Obias Valley, we discovered beautiful grass fields and large open plains. When I asked our eldest what she missed most from home, she said her beagles. Her younger sibling answered: the internet.

(Somewhere our parenting derailed…)

by dunes. Small lakes formed and, layer by layer, structures looking like castles appeared.

If hubby was not checking out the solar panels, he was busy getting the tent ready, helping the girls make a fire, pouring me a G&T, or making sure his tribe was safe and happy. Falling asleep that night, I made a mental note: married to the best husband ever!

On day 12 we stayed at Ongongo Waterfall Campsite with its crystal-blue spring and a beautiful waterfall.

readers story

At Puros Wild we were blown away by the large old shadowy trees, clean campsites and ablutions built into the trees and shrubs. We took a short drive down our old runway.

Fortunately, this was now closed after a few incidents. Later back at camp, Rainer was fixing solar panels so I took the girls for a river drive and showed them the Himba village I had remembered. It was so good to teach them about the culture – we love bringing all-things-different to our girls.

We packed for a nice day outing on day 10. We drove west into the Hoarusib and just had all the chairs out and ready for brunch at the Hoarusib Poort, when Rainer discovered fresh lion tracks. The kids had just jumped into the water, but we hastily packed up and drove further west, making our way to the sandcastles. These clay castles are thousands of years old. Sand and water were blown into the gorges, held back

Next, we headed to the Twyfelfontein area, staying at Malansrus, an absolute highlight. For once we did not have to set up camp.

In fact, we were lounging around the sparkling pool with cold G&Ts by lunchtime. Feeling a bit guilty, but also not.

We spent the last two nights at Madisa Camp, unpacking everything one final time, climbing hills and driving up dry riverbeds while enjoying the boulders and the views from the top.

Day 14 we were heading home, a little sad but also looking forward to a hot shower and no camp setup. This trip bonded us close-knits even closer, and we discovered another fact: it will always, always be Africa for us! TNN ESSENTIALS: Board games, satellite phone, more water than you think, ice!

Send your Namibian adventure story to info@travelnewsnamibia.com

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Experience nature and luxury combined with a unique blend of local hospitality.Kifaru Lodge offers a spectacular experience and memorable holiday for the more discerning traveler. Exclusively hosting only 12 guests, the lodge prides itself on quality service and exceptional cuisine.

Reservations: Destinationkifaru@resdest.com | +264 (61) 224712 Front Desk: reservations@kifarulodge.com | +264 (81) 244 9077 www.kifarulodge.com

SWA SAFARIS

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Eningu Clayhouse Lodge

T

here are few places in the world where one has the joy of waking up to no other sound than guinea fowl and francolins scurrying about. With coffee in hand, taking a few steps on bare feet in the softest red Kalahari sand to the edge of the garden. Faint pink sky announces the rising sun and thorn trees decorated in the most delicate spring blossoms like soft yellow cotton balls abound for as far as the eye can see.

Isn’t that why we need to escape? For our senses to be soothed by the subtle beauty of natural colours and sounds? To be in a place where we can turn our backs just for a little while on everything man-made and walk into the bush? Walk along a sandy path and imagine oneself being the only person on earth?

And just when you get worried that now you really are lost, there is a fork in the road and an arrow directing you back to the breakfast room.

The very essence of Eningu Clayhouse Lodge is being grounded in the earth from which it is constructed. You are welcomed into the family without infringing on the sense of freedom and of being undisturbed. Enjoy your last or first days in this country

of wide open spaces in the quiet comfort of creatively designed interiors and quirky details, complemented by fusion cuisine and an excellent wine collection – all set in the middle of the bush.

To make your stay at Eningu a truly unforgettable experience, visit the art studio and gallery of Namibia’s globally acclaimed sculptor, Dörte Berner. Her sculptures are part of collections on four continents where she has had more than 40 exhibitions in the course of 50 years. The artwork in the garden of Eningu is a mere introduction to what lies ahead when you drive through the gate of Pepperkorrel Farm.

An experience which truly cannot be replicated anywhere on earth. TNN

Tel +264 64 46 4144 info@eningulodge.com www.eningulodge.com

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Western Banded Snake Eagle

Slowness Birding with Pompie

Text & Photographs Pompie Burger

Why has the pleasure of slowness disappeared?

Ah, where have they gone, the amblers of yesteryear?

- Milan Kundera

Damara Hornbill

N

amibia is a large country, size does indeed matter, so driving and being on the road will be part and parcel of travelling (and bird watching) in this vast and beautiful country. To get to the different hotspots for birding you need to do the travel thing (remember slowness), be it by car, boat or on foot, although I must confess Namibians are not known for the foot thing.

If you drive at a speed of 200 km an hour the only bird you will see is maybe an Ostrich, so if this is the only bird you want to see you might be lucky, but I am afraid there are a lot of other birds which are much more impressive and satisfying to look out for than the world’s largest and fastest (size and speed) bird on foot. Roadside bird watching is unfortunately mostly about raptors, of which Namibia has more than 52 different kinds, so if you are a raptophile you will seldom be disappointed when driving slowly. As most birders will know, novice or professionals, the immature raptor factor comes into play and if you find more than the allocated 52 raptors you might have misinterpreted some of them as new birds.

To speculate on the hotspots of birding in Namibia is a bit of a bummer, maybe deciding beforehand on what your needs are will help. For the professional birder, the Western Bypass

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/ Fairy Circle is the way to go. Along the western part of Namibia in the pro-Namib region you can start at Sossusvlei driving north up to the Kunene River and will most probably end up seeing all 13 of Namibia’s endemic species. The only true endemic, the Dune Lark, is obviously in the dunes, with the area around Sossusvlei your most likely hotspot, (between the Fairy Circles). If you start at the bottom (further south), Barlow’s Lark is found east and southeast of Lüderitz, while Gray’s Lark occurs all the way from the Orange River up to the Kunene River. The Damara Tern is common all along the coast.

Moving more inland from the coast, Rüppel’s Korhaan is quite common and not that difficult to spot, because of its size and its semi-desert habitat. The central highlands host the most diverse group of endemics like Rüppel’s Parrot, Carp’s Tit, Violet Wood-Hoopoe, Monteiro’s and Damara Hornbills. The White-tailed Shrike is the icon of the endemics while the Bare-cheeked Babbler is the most vocal, moving around on the ground disturbing the leaves, insects and humans along the way. The Rockrunner and Hartlaub’s Spurfowl prefer rocky mountainous areas. Luckily they are very vocal and musical, so finding them is usually much easier by listening/calling.

BIRDING WITH POMPIE

Monteirose's Hornbill

Schalow's Turaco

Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk

African Finfoot

White tailed Shrike

Bathawk

Dune Lark

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If you happen to go as far as the Kunene River, the Red-necked Spurfowl, Rufous-tailed Palm-Thrush and Grey Kestrel must be on every birder’s menu.

The Cinderella Waxbill apparently is present in large numbers during the winter months (I still have to see one myself), while the Angolan Cave Chat, if you like caves, is somewhere in the vicinity of the Zebra Mountains (professional guide advisable). The western counterpart of the Southern Carmine Bee-eater is the Madagascar Bee-eater, a breeding migrant to this area, occurring as far south as Khorixas.

Probably the hotspots as far as numbers (for common people like me) are concerned, are Etosha National Park and the whole of north-eastern Namibia, i.e. the Kavango and Zambezi regions. Visiting Namibia without going to Etosha is like visiting RSA without looking for fraud or looting of a mall. Apart from the endemics occurring in the western part of Etosha (Okaukuejo), raptors are abundant in numbers and variety throughout the park. Look out for the Martial Eagle, Pale Chanting Goshawk (the Dark one is in the Zambezi Region), Tawny Eagle, Gabar Goshawk, Pygmy Falcon (along with their nesting hosts, the Sociable Weavers), African Harrier Hawk and Black-chested Snake-Eagle. I can go on and name all 42 raptors occurring here, but this might get boring, except if you see them. Vultures are obviously common, because lions are common.

White-backed and Lappet-faced are the dominant species.

The Zambezi Region is well known for its variety, be it waterbirds, raptors or forest birds. The main reason for the abundance and variety of birds is the vast number of different habitats. Water birds are common because water is common! Do yourself a favour and look for the Pygmy Goose, the smallest goose in the world. Apparently, the Slaty Egret and Rufous-bellied Heron are rather special for foreigners but for us Namibians they are common. Raptors to look for are the Western Banded Snake Eagle, Lizard Buzzard, Dickenson’s Kestrel, Bat Hawk and Ayres’s Hawk-Eagle. The one bird which is a must to find is Pell’s Fishing Owl, but again I suggest some professional guidance.

Last but not least, my personal favourite bird/spot is the Southern Carmine Bee-eater in the Zambezi Region. The breeding colony (the largest in the world) along the Zambezi River at Mubala is a must on your list. Seeing thousands of these beautiful birds congregating at the end of August to breed is a sight never to forget. In the process their natural enemies are also rather exciting (though not for them), like the African Marsh Harrier, Yellow-billed Kite, Black Mamba etc. While you are in the area, look for the White-backed Duck, White-crowned Lapwing and the Black Coucal (a summer visitor). A trip on the Zambezi River will, apart from all the water birds, take you to another fascinating sighting, the breeding ground/beaches of the African Skimmer.

Just ignore the fishermen on the river, they will settle down at sunset with their B&C around a campfire.

I will skip the migrants because they might be from your region and thus I would be duplicating unnecessarily. To name all the wonderful birding spots and all the wonderful birds in less than a thousand words is impossible, so forgive me (birds) for not mentioning all of you. The lodge owners can contact me directly for an invitation to their lodge, B&C on the house please. As far as sea birds are concerned, rather ask somebody else who knows better than me.

Slowness, patience and size are still the mainstay of our country. Slowness at the border post, patience at the Ministry of Home Affairs and the size of your excitement to meet all the wonderful birds of Namibia. TNN Southern Carmine Bee-eater

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BIRDING WITH POMPIE

White-crested Bush Shrike

African Skimmer

Martial Eagle

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Namibia

Explore & Discover

Feel the Nature...

your Journey Select Create your Accommodation

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PLAN YOUR TRIP

Our wealth of exper ience in-norm". depth Luckily k nowledge of Namibia, the incredibly diver par ts suited of Namibia its neighbor countr ies horizons and Covid-19 has changed the future of travel into and a "new for us in our country is se naturally to this. and Sunshine, wide opening spaces, endless ena bles us to lodges offer up marour kettravelers tailor-made guided fly-inDistance" safar is , without specialcompromising interest group or self dr ive tour s . smaller, intimate gives the accepted "Social on your African experience.

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PLAN YOUR TRIP

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Paul van Schalkwyk

The Brandberg Mountain

THE VIEW FROM HERE

Chasing the moon around the burning mountain

B

randberg, Dâures or Omukuruvaro is what the granite inselberg and highest mountain in Namibia is called by the locals who live around it today. It quite literally means “burning mountain”.

Ever since our children were toddlers we travelled to the northern Namibian wilderness, with the Brandberg always our beacon to mark the start of these adventures. I treasure the memories of one of our first trips during a particularly good rainy season. We travelled right around the mountain after some good showers and entertained our children by having them float down rivulets in a bucket and washing their mudcovered bodies in a pool we dug in the sandy patches along the edge of the riverbed. We had to navigate the Ugab River expertly not to get stuck, as that could have easily ended up in us being stranded for days. Both the mountain and the river are treacherous. Do not underestimate either – whether on foot or on four wheels – especially during the rainy season. Following tracks through thick reed patches can be very risky even long after floods.

Years later and during a drought cycle which lasted many years (rivulets and rain a distant memory) the mountain was not the start of our journey up north, but the destination. Ours was a five-day quest to follow the moon around the Brandberg.

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Text Rièth van Schalkwyk Every camping spot was carefully chosen for a different view of the mountain, the sunrise, the sunset, or the moon rising or setting over the horizon.

the morning leading up to full moon is to see the moon sink through the inversion layer in the west as the sun rises in the east to set fire to the mountain.

We know from countless previous trips that if you wake up early enough and find the right spot with the perfect view on the mountain the joy of seeing why this mountain is called Brandberg will be yours. Of course, the ancient inhabitants knew the mountain was not really on fire, but fire was the closest description for this unexpected and fleeting sight.

Then, towards the end of the same day, the ultimate magic – watching the moon rise, painted gold by dust particles of the dry season, lighting up the mountain in all its multi-faceted glory. A picture of smooth granite glazed in the light of the rising moon etching the deep crevices as black shadows of mystery.

This kind of camping trip is a luxury even for those who live in Namibia and have travelled extensively. It is for those lucky enough to be able to choose the right season, who have the time to explore at leisure with no rush to fit in the “top ten” and tick off the “must sees” in a jam-packed itinerary and who have the freedom to choose the right spot at the right time for a lunar delight.

We started off five days before full moon after making sure it was not going to rain in Damaraland and camped around the island mountain to follow the waxing moon.

The trip was meticulously planned so that, on the day before full moon, we would pitch camp at the perfect spot with an unobstructed view towards the east as well as the west, because the highlight on

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There is much more to the Brandberg and the Ugab than the moon. Ask any adventurer who had the courage to climb to Königstein, sit in the Lufthöhle where Harald Pager spent hours tracing rock art sites. To drive along the riverbed and its tributaries is a special experience. You may encounter elephant, hear the roar of a lion at night or find tracks in the soft sand. But the magic of this mountain is the evidence of its ancient geological history. Even the plants look as if they have been there for hundreds of years. If it was not for the cycles of the sun and the moon one could almost be tricked into thinking that time stood still around this mountain. TNN Follow Rieth’s travel and camping adventures in this new TNN series.

Send your questions, or your own camping experiences, to info@travelnewsnamibia.com.

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It’s about time.

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