Travel News Namibia Spring 2016

Namibia TRAVEL NEWS

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VOLUME 24 No 5 | SPRING 2016

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TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA INITIATIVES THE RMB NAMIBIA RIDE FOR RHINOS 2016

A fantastic new initiative in aid of black rhino conservation was launched in October last year. The RMB Namibia Ride for Rhinos tour is a 4-day cycling safari taking place in the Torra Conservancy just north of Palmwag. The tour brings together avid mountainbikers and conservation enthusiasts and introduces them to the work of one of Namibia’s most acclaimed conservation organisations, the Save the Rhino Trust (SRT). The riders explore the wonderful landscapes and vistas of Damaraland on saddleback, while gaining first-hand experience of the struggles that SRT has to endure on a daily basis in the face of an evergrowing poaching epidemic. This year’s RMB Namibia Ride for Rhinos will take place from August 31st to September 4th. For more information visit www.rideforrhinos.com.na or www. travelnewsnamibia.com.

HELP SAVE THE RHINO T-SHIRTS As part of the RMB Namibia Ride for Rhinos initiative, T-shirts have been produced in further support of the cause. On last year’s tour each cyclist received a T-shirt as part of their gift package. Feedback and requests for the T-shirts from the general public, as well as tourists who met the cyclist on their adventure, was tremendous. Therefore the T-shirts are now available for sale to anyone who wishes to support the endeavours of the Save the Rhino Trust.

Buy your shirt online at www.rideforrhinos.com.na.

GET YOUR TNN FIX ONLINE

Travel News Namibia, as well as all Venture Media's other publications, is available online at www.issuu.com/travelnewsnamibia. You can read each magazine and follow all our publications from anywhere in the world! With a readership based across the globe, we have been able to promote Namibia and all its wonders far and wide. Thank you to all our international readers! From the USA to Russia, Uganda to Japan, Argentina to Australia! We promise to keep you entertained and inspired for your next trip to Namibia.

Travel News Namibia has been at the forefront of Namibian tourism promotion for over 23 years, celebrating all things Namibian in print and online. In 2015 Venture Media launched “A Travel News Namibia Initiative”, a project that will strive to promote Namibia across different platforms beyond the boundaries of print and publishing. Follow us on our journey as we celebrate the beauty of Namibia, its conservation successes and new exciting adventures to come with our emerging Travel News Namibia initiatives!

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2016

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Namibia TRAVEL NEWS

is published by Venture Media in Windhoek, Namibia www.travelnewsnamibia.com Tel: +264 61 420 500, 4 Herzinger Crescent, Klein Windhoek PO Box 21593, Windhoek, Namibia MANAGING EDITOR Rièth van Schalkwyk TECHNICAL DIRECTOR Naude Muller PRODUCTION MANAGER Elzanne Erasmus elzanne@travelnewsnamibia.com PUBLIC RELATIONS Janine van der Merwe janine@travelnewsnamibia.com LAYOUT & DESIGN Venture Media CUSTOMER SERVICE Bonn Nortjé bonn@venture.com.na ONLINE EDITOR Sanet van Zijl info@travelnewsnamibia.com

TEXT CONTRIBUTORS Annabelle Venter, Ron Swilling, Elzanne Erasmus, Sanet van Zijl, Helge Denker, Rièth van Schalkwyk, Pompie Burger, Christie Keulder, Dr Nad Brain, Christina Rockstroh, Ilana Stein PHOTOGRAPHERS Elzanne Erasmus, Ron Swilling, Paul van Schalkwyk, Dr Nad Brain, Christie Keulder, Pompie Burger, Hentie Burger, Helge Denker, Marcii Goosen PRINTERS John Meinert Printing, Windhoek Travel News Namibia is published quarterly, distributed worldwide and produced solely on Apple Macintosh equipment. The editorial content of TNN is contributed by freelance writers and journalists. It is the sole property of the publisher and no part of the magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

COVER PHOTOGRAPH Elzanne Erasmus

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Our team of industry experts is ready to help grow your tourism business.

Terms and conditions apply. www.fnbnamibia.com.na Call the Tourism Division of FNB Business today on 061 411 211

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Namibia TRAVEL NEWS

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2015

and the Environment in Namibia

VOLUME 24 No 5 | SPRING 2016

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA is a high-quality glossy Namibia travel and lifestyle magazine tasked with promoting Namibia to the world. Travel News Namibia is published quarterly in English and annually in German.

The NAMIBIA HOLIDAY & TRAVEL is an annual tourism directory with over 200 pages of updated information on the country, regions, people, activities and wildlife.

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YEARS

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CONSERVATION AND THE ENVIRONMENT IN NAMIBIA, an annual special edition of Travel News Namibia, is published in cooperation with the Ministry of Environment and Tourism.

WWW. TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM TNN online is home to more than 20 years worth of content. We’ve been online since 1995, keeping readers across the world up-to-date with what’s happening in Namibia! Visit us today for the most amazing photos, enticing stories and comprehensive information on all things Namibia!

WE'RE A SOCIAL BUNCH

EDITOR’S LETTER

ADVENTURE IS IN THE AIR

I

am a Land Rover lover. My good luck, because I inherited several. Different ages, different sizes, different models and in different stages of disrepair.

Some old, some pretty, some customised, some going, but every one with a story. Most of them have only sentimental value, but for some strange reason – which only Land Rover lovers will understand – that is what counts and makes it impossible for me to part with them. When I read Nad Brain’s story on his blue Land Rover that clocked up one million kilometres, it all made sense to me.

SPRING

IN NAMIBIA

On the photo below we were on our way to the Palmwag concession of Wilderness Safaris to finalise the 2016 RMB Ride for Rhino Cycle Tour, a Travel News Namibia initiative. We then continued north to the Kunene for a quick visit to Serra Cafema. Along the way through the Kaokoveld, we saw a “Lone Man” (Ron Swilling wrote a beautiful story about these rock sculptures in the autumn edition). Namibia is a country for travellers who love adventure. Us Namibians appreciate the fact that we can still travel in wilderness areas on narrow tracks and imagine that our footprints are the first to make an imprint. What was so annoying when we came closer to the “Lone Man”, who sat literally in the middle of nowhere, was that the two-wheel track became a four-wheel track and to my horror, some tracks swerved out to a metre of the “Lone man” and back onto the proper track. Now who would drive all the way to the wildest, pristine, northern-most part of Namibia and is then too lazy to stop in the track, get out of the vehicle and walk the ten metres to take a photograph or read the inscription? Shame on you!

In this adventure edition Helge Denker tells the story of Conservancies. He introduces an information booklet and a map which explain the concept of these wilderness areas that are managed and looked after by communities. Insightful reading for all visitors: first-time, foreign and local.

We have fun adventure reads from all four corners of the land. Elzanne visited a new lodge on the Chobe. A group of fifty-something women hiked on a new trail not far from the capital. Ron Swilling had fun in Omaruru, one of the special rural towns in Namibia, worth making a detour for. Ron has always had a way of making us take note of tourist destinations we have almost forgotten about. Ever been to the dinosaur tracks?

Enjoy the great article on Andrew’s epic horse-back safari and the die-hards who braved it with him. For the romantics among us, Christina tells the story of the man who built a castle in the desert for his bride. Best is, one can stay there, courtesy of NWR. Pompie’s article on ducks made me look at them with different eyes. At least they stay in one place long enough to be identified. That’s something.

Hentie Burger’s photo feature on his first book takes us on a virtual tour of the entire country - different angles at a variety of places. Back in Windhoek, exhausted and thirsty, let’s toast to spring and our good fortune in “Sipping Sunsets”.

Rièth van Schalkwyk

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2016

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CONTENTS SPRING 2016 10 WHAT’S NEW(S)? What's happening in Namibia

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16 AN EPIC ADVENTURE On Horseback through the Desert 22 SO WHAT OF a Million Kilometres?

26 COMMUNITY CONSERVATION Living with Wildlife 30 SHOOTING STARS, Dinosaur Tracks & White Elephants 34 BIRDING Get your ducks in a row 42 ENCHANTING Chobe Water Villas 46 LOCAL IS LEKKER in Omaruru 52 LET'S GO ON AN ADVENTURE Hiking in the Khomas Hochland

CONTENTS

34 16 56 FRIENDLY ENCOUNTERS The right way to track a rhino 60 A CASTLE IN THE DUST CLOUDS NWR's Duwisib 64 PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE Namibia Panorama by Hentie Burger 70 FOODIES In the wake of Fourteen Brave Warriors 74 SIPPING SUNSETS Windhoek's sundowner hotspots

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NBL’S TAFEL LAGER GIVES BIRTH TO A

LITE BREW

WHAT’S NEW(S)?

Namibia Breweries Limited (NBL) – leader in the domestic beer market and a subsidiary of the Ohlthaver & List (O&L) Group – has launched its latest creation, Tafel Lite. A delicious brew with a fresh and crisp taste that elevates NBL’s brand portfolio to new heights, Tafel Lite is lower in total energy with 27% less carbohydrates than its mother brand, Tafel Lager.

Innovation remains a key driver for NBL and it is especially exciting to introduce another ‘Lite’ beer in Namibia, brewed according to the Reinheitsgebot brewing credentials whilst celebrating the 500-year anniversary of this German Beer Purity Law of 1516.

Compiled by Sanet van Zijl

OMARURU ARTIST TRAIL CELEBRATES 10 YEARS This year’s Omaruru Artist Trail promises to be a special one. The 10-year celebration of the event will kick off on the weekend of 23 and 24 September 2016. The first Artist Trail took place in May 2007 in conjunction with the centenary celebrations of Wronsky Haus, a major landmark in the town. The event combined the architectural heritage with the cultural vision of today. Every year the event brings together a large variety of Namibian artists demonstrating their crafts and sharing their skills with the public. This year a host of South African artists will be joining the festivities as well, among them Sarah Theron and Mel Botes. The event also allows visitors to explore the town of Omaruru from top to bottom, whilst getting their fill of the arts. The public is invited to wander along the trail, watch active demonstrations of pottery and jewellery making, marble sculpturing and basket weaving and take part in beading and wire classes. Go and spend time at the many exhibitions showcasing oil paintings, metal ornaments, photography, ceramics and more. Meet the artists, taste the culinary delights and enjoy the many diverse and surprising talents along the trail. To stay updated on the event visit the Omaruru Artist Trail Facebook page at www.facebook.com/omaruruartisttrail.

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WHAT’S NEW(S)?

SENSE OF AFRICA

WINS RESPONSIBLE TOURISM AWARD Sense of Africa Namibia, holder of the maximum five flowers by Eco Awards Namibia, was declared the overall winner of the Namibia Responsible Tourism Award for Tour Operators in 2016. To register for this prestigious award you need to have been awarded at least four eco flowers and provide evidence of outstanding performance, measured against the principles of sustainable tourism. The criteria include sustainable management, protection of natural resources, responsible handling of waste, staff training and positioning inside environmental sustainability procedures and social responsibility initiatives aimed at poverty eradication. Winning this award gives Sense of Africa the reassurance that their objective in making a difference in their natural and social environment is being fulfilled. The Bishop Kameeta Kindergarten in Katutura, which Sense of Africa has fully subsidised for the past seven years with monthly supplies of water, food, electricity, gas, clothing and endless amounts of other necessities, now also boasts two new outside toilet cubicles and a classroom of 3x6 metres.

Just recently the main building was fully refurbished with new tiles in the bedrooms, classrooms, kitchen and bathrooms. The next project will be to lay interlocking pavers in the yard of the kindergarten. The finances for the projects are generated through guests travelling with Sense of Africa: a small amount of money per booking is transferred to the kindergarten account.

NWR NOW OFFERS online bookings

In keeping up with the modern times, Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR) spent the past few months refining its online booking platform. This was done in order to accommodate customers who want to make their booking and pay for it right away in the comfort of their respective environments. The idea of revamping the booking platform came about after realising that more and more clients are searching for ways to make their bookings as efficient as possible and finalise travel arrangements without the need to write an email and wait for an answer. Together with the new booking platform some subtle changes have been made to the NWR website which allow customers to navigate the site effortlessly and find the required information in next to no time. Visit the NWR website at www.nwr.com.na.

ANSWER THE CALL OF THE MOUNTAIN WITH IJG TRAILS IJG Trails is situated on Farm Windhoek along the northern foothills of the Auas Mountains. With over 70 kilometres of trails, adventure awaits the whole family. The trails are suitable for activities such as mountain biking, hiking, trail running, walking dogs and bird watching. To access the trails you need to register to get an access card. There are six different packages available – you choose the one that suits your lifestyle and your pocket best. Access to the farm is via Otjivero Road in Windhoek. For more information contact Farm Windhoek at info@farmwindhoek.com; also check out www.facebook.com/ farmwindhoek or www.farmwindhoek.com for regular events.

CARNIVORE TRACKER APP Launched The members of the Large Carnivore Management Association of Namibia (LCMAN) have created a Carnivore Tracker App for both Apple and Android phones. Carnivore Tracker is a citizen science driven project which collects presence data for all carnivores across Namibia, from the yellow mongoose to leopards and lions. LCMAN hopes that hunters, farmers, tourists, teachers, businessmen and many others will use Carnivore Tracker to report their wild carnivore sightings in order to record their GPS location and contribute to a national database which will help to focus conservation efforts in the future.

The Carnivore Tracker is the first app of its kind for Namibia. It is a free download and free use application designed to allow anyone with a smart phone to contribute to the conservation of Namibia’s carnivore species regardless of their background or level of knowledge by simply logging their sightings as they occur. Data or Wi-Fi connectivity is not required as the sightings are stored and uploaded when they become available, making it ideal for use in remote wilderness locations. Learn more about the Carnivore Tracker App on www.cheetah.org/carnivore-tracker.

NEW SUITE OPEN AT ERONGO WILDERNESS LODGE A new two-tented suite has been added to the luxury accommodation of Erongo Wilderness Lodge. The new suite is situated in a spectacular location, only a short walk from the reception. It consists of two tents, built in the same style as the existing tents, and is suitable for two couples travelling together or for families with older children. Each tent is completely private. Both tents enjoy spectacular views of the Erongo Mountains. The tents share a private

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area for dining and relaxation and a boma-style fire pit where pre or post dinner drinks can be enjoyed. The main area has a fully equipped kitchen. The lodge supplies braai packs, to be prepared on open fire, and some salads. Alternatively, dinner is served at the lodge restaurant.

For further information contact Erongo Wilderness Lodge at info@erongowilderness-namibia.com or +264 61 239 199.

WHAT’S WHAT’S NEW(S)?

NEW(S)?

AIR NAMIBIA

SECOND BEST REGIONAL AIRLINE IN AFRICA

Air Namibia was voted second best airline in Africa at the 2016 Skytrax World Airline Awards held in Britain at the Farnborough Air Show outside London on 12 July 2016. The prestigious awards serve as a benchmark for excellence in the aviation industry. Travellers from across the globe take part each year in the world’s largest airline passenger satisfaction survey to determine the award winners. Regional airlines are defined as full service carriers which primarily operate domestic and/or international flights of up to approximately 6 hours.

ALMUTH STYLES CELEBRATES 20 years at Namib i Namib i was founded in 1979 by parties with interests in tourism at the Namibian Coast. Over the years Namib i developed into a fully-fledged information centre and marketing tool, not only for the coast but also covering the rest of Namibia. It has the oldest existing information to date. Almuth Styles joined the Namib i team on 1 September 1996 as information officer and bookkeeper. Namib i became her home away from home. In 2005 Namib i was facing closure due to financial constraints, as happens with many non-profit organisations. Almuth decided to take the plunge and bought Namib i, privatizing the information centre but vowing to keep it running on the same principals as before. This means that tourists receive free information on nearly everything imaginable. The centre supports the marketing of Namibia with limited resources. The services that Namib i has offered in the past have included assisting injured tourists in hospital, finding lost relatives in Namibia, helping with updates of travel guides such as that of the famous Lonely Planet, arranging weddings for tourists and much more. On 1 September 2016 Almuth is celebrating her 20th anniversary with Namib i, still doing what she loves most – leaving tourists happy and with great memories so they wish to come back again and again, and making lifelong friends around the globe!

Better, bolder OUTJO BAKKERY

The Outjo Bakkery was established in 1947. Last year, the original building was demolished and a bigger and better version of the old bakery was constructed.

The new building features the same style as the one that many will remember from days long past. The new shop offers delectable pastries, pies, breads and cakes. Visitors are welcome to sit down inside and enjoy a cup of coffee and some delicious meals from a small menu.

To see what you can expect visit www.facebook.com/Outjo-Bakkery

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EPIC an

SORT OF FREEDOM

ONE THOUSAND KILOMETRES THROUGH THE DESERT ON HORSEBACK Text Elzanne Erasmus Photographs Namibia Horse Safari Company

“In riding a horse, we borrow freedom,” wrote author Helen Thompson. But can you imagine the freedom that would come with traversing a desert on horseback? With nothing but the ground underneath and the clear blue skies overhead. Crossing dramatic landscapes and indescribable vistas such as found only in this land of endless horizons. Galloping across plains and through craters, climbing mountains and soft sand dunes. Sleeping under the amazing starry night sky with your horse neighing nearby. Can you imagine that kind of freedom? It would be something quite epic, don’t you think?

O

n May 6, sixteen resilient riders mounted hardy horses and set off on an adventure of extravagant proportions. For thirty days they traversed arid Namibian landscapes on horseback. All the way from Twyfelfontein to Lüderitz. Their journey taking them to towns and settlements such as Henties Bay, Swakopmund and Solitaire along the way. One thousand kilometres. “Why”, you may ask. Well… because they could.

It is said that often the best journeys answer questions that in the beginning you didn’t think to ask. Andrew Gilles, part owner and operator of the Namibia Horse Safari Company has been in the business of saddleback safaris through the country’s most splendid landscapes for two decades. He says that over the years a motif started to develop amongst riders participating in their trips. Towards the final part of almost every expedition riders would express sadness at their journey’s impending end. “We don’t want the ride to end, let’s keep going”, they would say. So, Andrew thought, why on earth not? Let’s keep going. Let’s go as far as we possibly can. Let’s combine almost all our existing tours into one dynamic, all-encompassing experience. And so… The Epic was born. The ultimate goal: To showcase the best of Namibia from the back of a horse.

The Epic brought together riders from across the globe.

Adventure seekers from the United States, France and

Britain and all the way from Malaysia made the great trek to Namibia to join Andrew and his team on their greatest quest yet. Most of the riders had previously joined a tour arranged

by Namibia Horse Safari Company and therefore had an idea of what awaited them. But how does one compare a 10-day safari to a 30-day extravaganza on horseback? None of them could have been prepared quite well enough for the magnitude of such an experience.

This is the type of thing that makes you grow as a human being, that makes you look deep into yourself.

– Aurelie Mei-Hoa Beaumel, France

Namibia Horse Safari Company has organised horse riding safaris through the Namib Desert for more than 20 years.

A range of 10-day rides covers experiences in areas such as the Namib Desert, Damaraland, the Fish River Canyon, Namib Rand and Wolwedans as well as the wild horses of the Namib near Aus. The Epic combined most of these

CALLING ALL ADVENTURERS! The date is yet to be set but Andrew is certain that the next Epic will come to fruition. With so many avid adventure seekers out there, who would love nothing better than to steal away from reality for a month to scour the wilderness of Namibia on horseback, the next instalment of this intrepid tale is sure to come! Visit the Namibia Horse Safari Company’s website at www.namibiahorsesafari.com for updates or to book a tour.

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Compelling, exciting, challenging.

– Cheryl Buxton, USA

The Epic has been the most fantastic thing I have ever done in my life. It has been enriching, invigorating, exhilarating.

– Kathy Green, UK

A HORSE BY ANY OTHER NAME

destinations. The group followed trails to track desertadapted species such as elephant, lion and rhino and sped through the Messum Crater alongside a herd of excited zebra. Andrew says they “whooped it up” across these dramatic landscapes at speeds of up to 53km/h.

Riders spent six to eight hours a day in the saddle, covering distances of up to 60 km. Each leg of the journey involved 20 different horses, including four spare horses in case a friend got tired or needed a tag out. After completing their respective leg the horses were taken home for a welldeserved rest of six weeks. With the terrain being as tough as it was, only the most robust and resilient of horses were chosen for the journey. And the riders had to toughen up, too. A thousand kilometres in thirty days is not for the faint hearted, even if the camp that was set up each night left little to be desired. Who can complain about roughing it for a month when you have a linen duvet to sleep under, a

FAST FACTS ABOUT THE EPIC • • • • • •

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30 days 1000km 16 riders (14 guests and 2 guides) 20 horses at a time 4 spare horse on every leg 60 horses in total

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The Namibia Horse Safari Company’s self-proclaimed “most precious asset” are the horses, of course. The mixed herd originates from breeds such as Arab, Haflinger, Trakehner, Nooidgedacht and Boerperd. All the horses have been raised on Namibia’s rough terrains, making them experienced, sure-footed and hardy.

hot shower every evening, ice in your gin and tonic and are treated to chocolate brownies around the campfire.

A few set-backs would have to be expected on such a feat, but with the exception of a fall here and there the riders made it through unscathed. Night-time visits from curious hyenas did not scare them out of their wits, and when it came to trudging through thick reeds with the knowledge that lions were likely to laze nearby, the group took to singing Kumbaya to alert all predators to their presence.

What makes a trip like this truly exciting, however, is the fact that you have such unfettered access to places which can’t be travelled to on foot because of distance and that you can’t get to by car because of the terrain. Knowing that you may be one of the very first people to cross this particular patch of desert grounds you. It is just you, your horse and the desert, and all the trivialities of the real world melt away. The unchanging, remote and quiet places sooth the soul as you and your steed meander through them, leaving only footprints behind. It is unlikely that you walk away from an experience like this unchanged. And with such amazing memories to treasure forever, the freedom of the ride is sure to stay with these epic adventurers long after they return home. TNN

Living was a horse between your legs and a hill and a valley and a stream with trees along it and the far side of the valley and the hills beyond. – Ernest Hemingway

SO WHAT OF A

MILLION KILOMETRES Text Dr Nad Brain

It's not the distance, it's the experience.

T

he elephants reappeared. It had been a three-month search and the matriarch, Knobnose, had taken her herd and eluded us. She had a radio collar on and I had an aeroplane to track her, yet she disappeared on her ancient ancestral path. When she brought her clan back, we stood in quiet respect. We watched, we filmed – we simply were in silent awe. Infrasonic grumbles, just audible, crossed the open plains of Etosha and a hundred other elephants knew that she had returned. So did we.

But she quietly carried a heavy burden: both her previous calves had died of anthrax. And when you looked into those deep reflective amber eyes it seemed that they projected everything we had never known. Now, beneath those eyes and tucked closely against her leg was a new calf, perhaps five days old.

So we learnt about the elephants and loved them. I wished they could have been with us when we watched our National Geographic Special as it crossed the planet on satellite TV. The anthrax tragedy that our elephants had to live with was not restricted to them alone. The San (Bushmen) from the Tsumkwe area alerted us to that. In an absolutely unique environment of immunity, antibodies, deadly spores and death, the San enlightened me to the sensitivity of cheetahs to anthrax. Our film entitled “Living with anthrax” was shown across the world, at the very time when America grappled with the New York anthrax attack. But the ostriches of Namibia knew nothing about anthrax – lucky for them, as they have problems of their own: eighty percent chick mortality, ever-persistent heat and eyes that are bigger than their brain. We researched ostriches in Etosha and the Namib and filmed heart-breaking episodes of complete clutch destruction by predators. We concluded that perhaps it is a blessing that they are so stupid, as our friends the San again pointed out to us. Forever woven into their fireside stories and legends, animals smart and stupid keep the night vibrant, the laughter rolling and the true spirit of Africa alive. Our film “Legends of the Bushmen” permeates this spirit and as you watch it, if you breathe deeply, you can just detect the faint drifting aroma of a Mopani fire.

And so, into this wildlife wonder that we shared with the creatures all around us, came the greatest wonder, our son Kimber. He managed, literally by only a few hours, not to be born in the back of our Land Rover. The same Land Rover showed him all of the above: the elephants, cheetahs, jackals, ostriches, huge thunderstorms, San people, limitless Etosha horizons and our camp near Namutoni where the huge boomslang slid gently over his feet as we watched in near anaphylactic shock. Our best friend Paul Van Schalkwyk lay in extreme pain in the back of this Land Rover with a broken back as we drove him to Windhoek after an accident while filming the lions of Etosha. He specifically requested this in favour of an ambulance.

So what of a million kilometres? It’s not the distance, it’s the experience. Somehow the million kilometres that the blue Land Rover has just clocked up smell of time and exposure. There is a spirit within, a subtle reminder, a feeling of connection, of dust, mud, rain and desert – of grease, diesel, spanners and an endless shifting Milky Way under Namib skies. TNN

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COMMUNITY CONSERVATION

Living with Wildlife

Text and Photographs Helge Denker

The legendary Kaokoveld of old, the last wilderness, the arid Eden: that vast tract of land that is the north-western corner of Namibia – a place with a near-mythic status as a destination for travel and exploration…

Y

et, what is that place today, in a world where development and change are constants?

To give insight into the modern conservation context of this ancient landscape, a new tourism route provides an in-thefield introduction. The ‘Living with wildlife in ≠Khoadi-//Hôas Conservancy Side-Track’ is a half-day four-wheel-drive route

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focussing on the fundamentals of community conservation in the northwest.

There’s really no place better than ≠Khoadi-//Hôas to get that first-hand account. Khoadi – as it is widely referred to – was one of the first four communal conservancies formed in Namibia almost two decades ago. It is a large, well-established

conservancy that stretches across undulating hills and rugged mountains on the eastern fringes of the communal farming areas of the Kunene Region. This is an ideal entry point into Kaoko via the frontier town of Kamanjab – the perfect first stop on your safari.

The timeless rhythms of Kaoko are much the same as they have been for eons. The wildlife is still all there – elephant, giraffe, lion, leopard, rhino, zebra, all manner of antelope… and it’s wildlife viewing in the spectacular landscapes of northwestern Namibia – a privilege that travellers from near and far seek to experience.

The wildlife is still there, but the human parameters have changed. And it is these changes, more than anything else, that has enabled the wildlife to continue to roam, largely unhindered. Because here, the immense spaces across which the wildlife wanders are not part of any national park. This is not a conventional tourist destination. This land has an entirely different status: it is a community conservation area.

It is also communal farmland in the traditional African sense, where people herd livestock and – if soils and rainfall permit – grow a few crops in small gardens. The farmland is overlaid by the community conservation area, which by now consists of around 40 adjoining conservancies that stretch from Etosha to the Skeleton Coast Park and from the Kunene River to the Spitzkoppe. The conservancies enable wildlife management and conservation on the farmland, in a sometimes precarious balance with traditional land uses. People tolerate elephants that may raid their crops or damage their water infrastructure, they even tolerate the lions and other predators that time and again will take some of their livestock – as long as costs and benefits can be balanced. People know that wildlife is important and that we must conserve it for a healthy future.

This is what it means to live with wildlife in the Erongo-Kunene Community Conservation Area.

Because of its successes in balancing the needs of people and wildlife outside parks, Namibia’s community-based natural resource management programme has garnered widespread

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The timeless rhythms of Kaoko are much the same as they have been for eons. The wildlife is still all there – elephant, giraffe, lion, leopard, rhino, zebra, all manner of antelope… and it’s wildlife viewing in the spectacular landscapes of north-western Namibia – a privilege that travellers from near and far seek to experience. international acclaim. But how does a conservancy actually function? The ≠Khoadi-//Hôas Side-Track route gives you the opportunity to find out. Khoadi has a well-organised office, a variety of information displays and friendly staff in crisp uniforms. The conservancy office is right at the start of the route, and a stop is well worth it. Chat with the community game guards about their work. Study the conservancy notice board. And then go on to explore a beautiful corner of the 3,365 square kilometre conservancy.

The Side-Track brochure will be your guide. It is a fullcolour publication with a large, detailed map to enable you to find your way around. And it has a variety of information that will help you interpret what you see along the way.

Like all Conservancy Side-Tracks, this is a designated tourism route in a community conservation area, developed to enhance the visitor experience by providing authorised access to sectors off the beaten track, and by sharing a variety of information to explore them. The proceeds from

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the sale of the brochures are reinvested into community conservation initiatives.

For much of the Khoadi route, the track follows a transect of the Erongo-Kunene Game Count (also known as the NorthWest Game Count). This is the largest annual road-based game count in the world, carried out in early June each year, as it has been for almost 20 years. Wildlife is counted from the back of a ‘bakkie’ – the tray of a four-wheel drive pick-up truck. The count starts at sunrise in the biting cold of winter and always follows the same routes (referred to as transects) to ensure consistency. Each conservancy is laced by a number of transects, which usually take around half a day each to complete.

So while you are travelling, scan the land for game as if you were on the count. In the vastness of this wild world, animals the size of giraffe and elephant are dwarfed by huge panoramas. ≠Khoadi-//Hôas straddles the Grootberg, and its

flat-topped mesas provide spectacular backdrops all around.

The route meanders through the undulating landscape to the east of the Grootberg Pass.

A highlight is the Fig-Tree waterhole. The basalts of the Etendeka Plateau, of which the Grootberg is a part, are well-known for their natural springs and seeps. A large pool at the base of this cliff in an ephemeral watercourse has nurtured stately Namaqua rock figs and is visited by wildlife of all sizes. This is not an Etosha waterhole, though – game is wary and often comes only at night. It is the spoor on the game trails that reveal the presence of all the creatures.

The conservancy has benefitted from various wildlife reintroductions, and red hartebeest, black-faced impala and eland now occur here again.

The diversity of vegetation in this arid land is another interesting feature. Bottle trees are aptly named and easily recognised. The enigmatic whip-stick acacia with its wispy stem is an oddity, and the gnarled and stumpy Herero sesame-tree is characteristic of many of the rocky slopes.

You will pass some farmsteads and farming infrastructure on your way that give an impression of how locals live here, in these wild spaces. You are also likely to see goats, cattle and donkeys. Around 4,200 people live in ≠Khoadi-//Hôas, many of them farming with livestock.

There are a variety of accommodation options to provide a base from which to explore the route. It is comfortably accessible from Grootberg Lodge or Hoada Campsite, both within ≠Khoadi-//Hôas and conservancy-owned. Further alternatives exist in and around Kamanjab, a leisurely scenic drive away. Make a point of finding the real people, places and wildlife of Kaoko with the aid of a Side-Track brochure on your next trip to the northwest. TNN

SEVEN ASPECTS OF COMMUNITY CONSERVATION 1. ≠Khoadi-//Hôas Conservancy Office: the hub of conservancy management 2. Conservancy management structures: provide the framework for community conservation 3. Event Book Monitoring System: enables monitoring of wildlife and diverse related events and influences 4. Quota setting system: ensures sustainable wildlife management 5. Conservancy Notice Board: provides information for conservancy residents and visitors 6. Conservation activities (including human-wildlife conflict mitigation and anti-poaching work): the nuts and bolts of community conservation 7. Annual Erongo-Kunene Game Count: provides estimates of game numbers and population trends

GET YOUR SIDE-TRACK Conservancy Side-Track route brochures are available at CYMOT outlets in Windhoek, Swakopmund and Otjiwarongo, and at selected accommodation establishments in conservancies.

For more info visit www.nacso.org.na.

SHOOTING STARS, DINOSAUR TRACKS AND WHITE ELEPHANTS...

Text and photographs Ron Swilling

The Omatakos, two mountains that emerge from the plains south of Otjiwarongo, are named for their resemblance to a woman’s behind.

The land of space and soul - and a big blue sky that reaches to eternity - is also the place to stretch the imagination and embrace a more colourful, richer world. Off the beaten track, a bit of exploration – and imagination - often reveals intriguing phenomena that are not widely known. And, although it’s hard to beat towering sand dunes and the sculptural mastery of the second largest canyon in the world, there are many enchanting and delightful jewels to be found along the way.

Making fire the traditional way at the Damara Living Museum near Twyfelfontein.

Stone-sellers displaying their colourful wares on the coastal road south of Henties Bay. The wreck of Zeila, a trawler stranded in 2008, lies in the surf behind them.

The Hoba meteorite, consisting of 82% iron, is the largest known meteorite in the world.

Here they are! Twyfelfontein’s rock engravings – shamans’ prayers to the gods.

The White Elephant at Phillips Cave near Usakos.

It didn’t take much. Conical termite hills dotted the landscape, reaching heavenwards in spindly spires, warthogs rooted on road verges hurrying into the bush with tails alert like radio antennae and a clear blue sky reached to eternity.

My first landmarks were the Omatakos, the two mountains that emerge from the plains on the way to Otjiwarongo and Waterberg, named for their resemblance to a woman’s behind.

‘it’s a big, big, place without an end’. I took it as a subtle (or not so subtle) hint to extend the parameters of my imagination and go back 219 million years to the days when these prehistoric beasts loped over the land. I followed the signs to the Dinosaur Tracks and hooted outside the farm gate, as the sign instructed. The German-speaking owner came out with a wad of flyers and a register and began to tell me about the two tracks visible in the rock from the Ceratosauria and Syntarsus species. “Ceratosaurs were large, bipedal predatory dinosaurs that roamed the southern hemisphere in the Late Jurassic period.” I interrupted him, breaking the magic to fetch my pen from the car, and he dismissed me, telling me to Google it when I got home.

But then, unable to keep this incredible information to himself, he called me back, waving a folder in his hands and showing me a picture of a massive dinosaur with long, pointed teeth. “Scary, hey?” he said. “Pretty frightening,” I replied before turning towards the campsite and the rocky area where the three-toed dinosaur tracks are etched into stone. I followed the tracks and for a few fleeting seconds, as I walked in the blazing heat over the Etjo sandstone, I could sense the great beasts leaping about.

Veering off from the bodacious beauties, it was time for the gravel and I made my way to the Otjihaenamaparero guest farm to walk in the paths of dinosaurs. The farm’s Herero name - which sounds like a running brook - suggests that

Leaving the peace of the farm roads, I made a quick northeasterly dash and detoured to Grootfontein. After all, I had an appointment with a star! The Hoba meteorite (the largest known single meteorite) entered the Earth’s atmosphere and crashed

Secrets always take time to be revealed. I discovered some beauties on an anti-clockwise loop from Windhoek to Otjiwarongo and Khorixas (with a short detour en route), and via the coast down to Swakopmund and Usakos. On the journey I would be enthralled by Herero women in voluminous dresses at the Ugab River, I would learn the secret of making fire with sticks at the living museum near Twyfelfontein and I would be dazzled by the gemstone collections in Damaraland.

The adventure included some of the great Namibian locations, but also some of the smaller, wackier spots, which caught my attention and roused my imagination in a flurry of wonder and inspiration.

TO THE OMATAKOS & BEYOND

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I had after all walked in the paths of dinosaurs, met white elephants and...

I had even sat upon a shooting star. to the ground 80 000 years ago. In 1920 a farmer discovered the 60-ton rock while ploughing his fields. It was unearthed and identified. This was an opportunity I couldn’t miss. I ducked at the sign that said ‘Beware of falling meteorites’ and climbed onto the large chunk of metallic rock to imagine what it felt like to ride a shooting star through the galaxy. Wahoooooooo!

ROCK PRAYERS & WHITE GOLD There were soon more tales of intrigue and wonder to be found, and another appeared at the popular Twyfelfontein rock engravings. This was the place where hunter-gatherers of old congregated during dry seasons, engraving their messages into stone. It’s also the place where half a century ago farmer David Levin chose to settle, battling to make a livelihood, never certain if there would be sufficient water for his family and livestock. In early days, whenever neighbouring farmers dropped in, his wife would tell them, “he’s at the spring,” and they’d find him there digging and wondering. This led to his nickname ‘David Twyfelfontein’ (David ‘Doubtful Spring’).

When it came time to register the name of the farm, the name had stuck. It was here, in the earthy cathedral, that I stretched my imagination to conceive of the 2000-6000 year old petroglyphs as prayers to the gods, chiselled into the rock by shamans as they entered trance, beseeching the gods for rain, food and protection for the hunt. Elongated giraffe necks and mythical creatures, half-animal, half-human, intimated the merging of worlds.

My imagination continued to soar as I drove along the coastal road. I was once again fascinated by Cape Cross (formerly a bustling settlement established to exploit ‘white gold’ - guano), which boasted the first piece of railway in the country and lays claim to the first highway robbery. Further south, salt crystals were displayed on rustic tables along the roadside and the lichen fields revealed the amazing tenacity of living organisms to survive in the desert extremes.

DREAMING OF AN AGE OF INNOCENCE When I arrived in Swakopmund, a town that always gives me the impression that it was dropped unexpectedly from the heavens, I strolled along the jetty at sunset, watching flamingos fly homeward for the night. Here, I pictured how people were once lifted in baskets from their ships and the menacing breakers below. The history of a town built between desert and icy ocean continued to baffle me.

I had one more quest before I returned to the capital, and that was to find a white elephant. I eventually found her on the Ameib guestfarm near Usakos where I braved the 40 degree heat to walk to the cave. Halfway, a sign informed me to ‘Hou moed’ (keep your courage up). When I had paid my respects to the elephant rock painting, I sat down in the vast cave, once the spacious home of San (Bushmen), and as I looked at the spectacular landscape I envisaged a time when the Earth was young.

There was still so much to explore and discover, and I was reluctant to return to the main road and the city. The tip of the fantastic iceberg had barely been touched. But, those adventures and their telling are for another time. For now I had to be content. I had after all walked in the paths of dinosaurs, met white elephants and... I had even sat upon a shooting star. TNN

Dinosaur tracks etched into the sandstone at the Otjihaenamaparero guest farm.

GET YOUR DUCKS IN A ROW

Duck and Dive - what’s good for the goose is good for the gander Text and Photographs Pompie Burger 34

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BIRDING WITH POMPIE

White-faced Duck (Dendrocygna viduata)

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Cape Teal (Anas capensis)

Of all the bird species this is probably the one that even the most novice bird watcher can identify. Firstly, the type of species that you are looking at is a goose/duck/teal, and secondly, to differentiate between the various species is rather easy. To say that for me it is not a problem to identify them might sound a bit blasé after 35 years of birding, so I would rather say even my son Ian can make the correct diagnoses. Going into the gory detail about their habitat in and around water, it is not rocket science that they have a funny looking flat bill and funny looking webbed feet.

One can also say with relative certainty that these birds are well loved by everyone, because of their tranquil way of swimming/gliding over the water. If disturbed (see photographer) they will just move away, and if seriously threatened they will fly away after a rather awkward but very effective take off. Their versatility in being able to swim, fly and walk makes them also rather special, although walking is not really their forte when compared to their swimming skills. Watching a mother goose with her goslings in or out of water will make any mother’s (and some father’s) heart soft with envy.

The main difference between a duck and a goose is that geese roost in trees or at least somewhere out of the safety of the water, while ducks roost in the water. One can say with certainty that one would see geese more often outside the water than ducks.

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To add to my grief and dismay with hunters, there are actually hunters that shoot ducks and geese. I even know someone who does it, and although he is not that bad I really think he should go for therapy to get rid of his aggression and urge to kill innocent birds and animals. I would rather not mention his name because it might harm his otherwise good name in society. Suffice to say he is one of the cardiac surgeons in Windhoek. To add insult to injury there are even people that have the audacity to eat duck, how low can you go?

There are over 100 different species in the world, 20 in southern Africa and 17 in Namibia. Each of the different species has its preferences as far as its perfect habitat is concerned. The African Pygmy Goose (Nettapus auritus) prefers the quiet back waters in the swamps. Egyptian Geese (Alopochen aegyptiaca) are probably the most common (a pest?) and versatile geese in Namibia - they even occur in places like golf courses!

BIRDING WITH POMPIE

Comb Duck (Sarkidiornis melanotos)

Egyptian Goose (Alopochen aegyptiaca)

African Pygmy-Goose (Nettapus auritus)

Red-billed Teal (Anas erythrorhyncha)

South African Shelduck (Tadorna cana)

Red-billed Teal (Anas erythrorhyncha)

Cape Shoveler (Anas smithii)

African Pygmy-Goose (Nettapus auritus)

Maccoa Duck (Oxyura maccoa)

BIRDING WITH POMPIE

White-backed Duck (Thalassornis leuconotus)

This might be because they might have heard about the albatrosses and other birdies in the area. They were called Mountain Geese in the not so distant past. To my dismay most ducks and geese also love sewage works, so if you happen to be bored when in Swakopmund, or any town for that matter, you might go to this revolting place to see Maccoa Duck (Oxyura maccoa), Red-billed Teal (Anas erythrorhyncha), Cape Teal (Anas capensis) and many other interesting birds. Janus Brand even saw a Garganey (Anas querquedula), a very rare vagrant, at the sewage works in Otjiwarongo. One can only guess what he might have been doing there.

Marshes and open flood plains are a favourite habitat for most of the flat bills. The White-backed Duck (Thalassornis leuconotus) and Hottentot Teal (Anas hottentota) along with the odd Pygmy are specials at Kalizo Lodge in the north. The African Black Duck (Anas sparsa) prefers fast flowing streams but I still haven’t seen one - maybe because fast flowing streams are not that common in Namibia.

The White-faced Duck (Dendrocygna viduata) is second to the Pygmy as my favourite because of its charming whistle when disturbed, and obviously its looks. Incidentally it is but one of the few ducks that have a nice melodic call. They love to sit on the banks and beaches along the water in large groups.

Watching a White-faced Duck mother with her nine ducklings at a seasonal pan at Nambwa for hours, for three days in succession, is one of my better memories. When a Fish Eagle flew over the mother just raised her wings and within a split second all nine disappeared under the water until it was safe to surface. Although not that common, Hottentot Teal (Anas hottentota) also like the seasonal pans.

The Comb Duck (Sarkidiornis melanotos) and Spur-winged Goose (Plectopterus gambensis) can wander quite far from water, feeding in the grasslands along rivers and waterways, although they prefer flood plains for feeding in the shallow water. The South African Shelduck (Tadorna cana) is the only endemic in southern Africa / Namibia, preferring inland waters in semi-arid regions. The Fulvous Duck (Dendrocygna bicolor)

Spur-winged Goose (Plectropterus gambensis)

is highly nomadic but relatively uncommon. I cannot confirm how true it is that the Spur-winged Goose is one of the fastest flying birds, but one should never doubt a birder’s knowledge as far as information on statistics is concerned. What I do know is that the Comb Duck male develops the enlarged knob on the forehead during the breeding period to impress the female, which goes to show that males would go to any length to excite a female.

Seeing a couple of Red-billed Teals at Ganab in the desert after a freak rain storm was quite astonishing. This, however, confirms their opportunistic nomadic migration ability. None of the duck or goose species migrate outside the region except for the Comb Duck, which is a partial intra-African migrant, and the Garganey.

Unfortunately sewage works are indeed a very good and plentiful place to hang out looking for ducks and geese. I must admit that there are a few reasons why I (really!) do not like sewage works. The smell and the locality are but two good reasons, another one being the surrounding decor which is not that conducive to photography. Regrettably sometimes one has to drop ones standards to be able to compare notes with the experts. Luckily bridges are not such a good hunting ground for ducks and geese (in contrast to swallows, swifts and prostitutes).

As with most bird species the males are usually the better looking one of a pair. The exception, as far as differences between the look of male and female are concerned, are Egyptian Geese, Fulvous Ducks, White-faced Ducks, Yellowbilled Ducks, Red-billed Teals, African Black Duck and Whitebacked Duck: male and female look alike.

Why they say ‘he was out for a duck’ in cricket, when a batsman is dismissed without scoring any runs, I still do not know. For that matter, if he is out with the first ball they call it a ‘golden duck’. I suppose it has either to do with the English (Pommies) or there might have been hunters involved in this misnomer. TNN

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Enchanting

CHOBE WATER VILLAS

CHOBE Text and photographs Elzanne Erasmus

GIANTS, KINGS AND SKIES ON FIRE

I never knew of a morning in Africa when I woke up and was not happy.

H

emingway’s words never rang more true for me than when I awoke to the soft ‘huh huh huh’ of a hippo slightly downriver from my villa. The gentle lapping of the Chobe waters caressing the soul, the excitement of the day to come rising with the African sun.

The day before I had arrived at O&L Leisure’s new resort, Chobe Water Villas, by way of a stylish speedboat transfer from Botswana’s safari town, Kasane. After a quick stop at the customs office along the river – after all, we were about to leave Botswana – we were off at an exhilarating pace toward the northern side of the Chobe. Along the way we came upon at least 10 to15 other vessels, packed to the brim with excited

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explorers, marvelling at the herds of buffalo and elephant lazily grazing in the floodplains of Sedudu Island. Cameras poised and at the ready, you could tell they were eagerly snapping away at the sight of the large elephant bulls a few metres from their boats, getting that “Look what I saw in Africa!” shot.

Taking the special moment home with them. As we rounded a bend in the river, a row of thatched villas came into view.

Perched on stilts that extend over the water’s edge, they are framed by tall green Acacia trees and do not for a second seem out of place in their wild setting.

A welcoming committee of people and nature awaited my arrival at the wooden dock. In fact, my very first greeting came

from a Pied Kingfisher perched on a wooden beam. A quick survey of my surroundings revealed a beautifully designed space, at once setting the mood for the spectacular African experience to come.

named “The Spiral of Life” to “The African Sun” reception chandelier, cultural patterns and elements from nature and aesthetic concepts were combined to deliver a beautiful visual symphony.

THE POETRY OF DESIGN

WATCH THE SKIES CATCH FIRE

The lodge’s layout and design astounds, as if right from the pages of some fancy interior magazine where the purpose of each conceptual choice is to awe and inspire. Details are stuffed into every nook and cranny, and the overall effect is overwhelming. The lodge’s assistant manager, Nerise, later explained how each detail of the interior has a hidden meaning and how choices were made to coincide with a theoretical “sense of place” experience. There is poetry in each element. From the decorative support beam

My adventures into the wonders of the Chobe area started with a sunset boat cruise. Gin and Tonic in hand, the cry of a Fish Eagle overhead, and a herd of elephant crossing the river in front of our two-decker riverboat made for quite the experience. At times the river got so deep that only the very tips of the elephant trunks broke the water surface. Hippos shook droplets from their ears as they came up from where they had been submerged to peak at us passing. Crocodiles basked in the day’s last rays of sunshine. A family of kudus

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CHOBE WATER VILLAS

Chobe Water Villas is an O&L Leisure establishment that was opened in July 2016. The lodge is situated inside the Kasika Conservancy on the Namibian bank of the Chobe River. The lodge boasts 16 water villas and is well located to link attractions in the area, including Chobe National Park in Botswana and Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe.

Be sure to visit our website for a visual journey through the interior design concepts that fill Chobe Water Villas with such splendour. For more info on the lodge visit their profile on our site: www.travelnewsnamibia.com/planyour-trip/chobe-water-villas

stepped down to the bank for some refreshment. And the sun disappeared behind the lodge, setting everything on fire in a bright orange glow the likes of which I hadn’t seen in a very long time. With dusk came an evening chill and a bright full moon, and a sense of awe crept through me as I sat atop a boat on this majestic river and absorbed all the wonders of this wild place.

ELEPHANTS… ELEPHANTS EVERYWHERE A game drive into Chobe National Park on the Botswana side the next morning reconfirmed what I had already established… Chobe has elephants. Lots of them.

Everywhere. The gentle giants dot the floodplains and Sedudu Island that lies between Namibia and Botswana.

Here they feed during the day before making their way back across the river into the main part of the park before nightfall.

Hundreds move along the river in large family herds, dark brown with mud and water, so unlike the white ghosts that roam Etosha National Park in central Namibia. Over 160,000 elephants call this area home, and seeing these stately Goliaths move back and forth along the river left me to marvel at their sheer size and numbers.

A COLONY OF KINGS About 100m to the west of Chobe Water Villas the watersides are alive with a flutter of wings. Here, colonies of Pied Kingfishers (Ceryle rudis) have constructed their nests in the walls of the riverbank. Flashes of black and white skim across the surface of the water as they flit between home and hunting ground. A graceful upward arc and a momentary mid-air hover prelude their dive into the water.

PACK YOUR PASSPORT!

Your stay at Chobe Water Villas includes quite a few trips across the river and back if you partake in all the activities the lodge has to offer. These jaunts include inevitable visits to the Botswana customs office. The immigration office is quick and efficient and it takes barely any time to have them stamp your passport as you cross back and forth between borders, but be sure your passport has sufficient page space.

The lodge managers take care of your immigration routine on the Namibian side. Your visit to Chobe Water Villas includes two activities per day, and with so many to choose from I’d recommend staying a week! See all the activities on offer at the lodge at www.chobewatervillas.com.

Among the reeds dispersed along the river course, the small and vibrant Malachite Kingfishers (Alcedo cristata) perch on thin branches, low enough over the water to make their dive-and-catch a quick and efficient practice. For the bird lover, or ‘twitcher’, Chobe is a haven of aviary delights, with over 460 species to tick off your lifer list! Yellow-billed storks, Openbills, Spoonbills, Black, Grey and Purple Herons are but a few of the larger water birds permeating the riverfront and marshes.

FIND ME WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE Whether you are an avid nature lover, photographer, birder or just looking for peace and serenity somewhere where nature surpasses all else, Chobe Water Villas is an utterly enchanting experience. It has brought the wonder of the Chobe area, so long dominated by Botswana’s Kasane foothold, to Namibia’s river shores. It is a raw and authentic African experience through and through and I will always remember feeling the wild energy seep through me as I lounged on the veranda of my villa, watching elephants gallivant across the river. There is magic to be found in such wild places. TNN

DID YOU KNOW? Just east of the lodge is the confluence of the Chobe and Zambezi Rivers where four countries meet: Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe.

Whether you are an avid nature lover, photographer, birder or just looking for peace and serenity somewhere where nature surpasses all else, Chobe Water Villas is an utterly enchanting experience.

LOCAL IS LEKKER IN

OMARURU Cheese, wine and chocolate.... & a little bit more than meets the eye Text and Photographs Ron Swilling 46

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T

he fresh breeze of the last century has put this small town on the map for its annual Artist Trail, its fresh produce grown along the seasonal Omaruru River and its wine, chocolate and cheese. A sunny day en route to the coast provided the perfect opportunity to veer off the main road, drive the extra 60 km and discover, explore... and taste.

Rising with the birds, I had ample time to turn off from the B2 to Swakopmund and head to Omaruru to begin the day at Main Street Café, which is linked to a photo gallery and housed in the old bakery that has supplied Omaruru with fresh baked goods for 70 years. The menu revealed how ‘long-time residents remember the very colourful Baker Meyer and his Easter buns’. Focusing on using local ingredients, the Café boasts that it goes ‘days without opening a tin’ and bluntly states: ‘If you want Aromat, Ricoffy or margarine, please go up the street’. I was at the right place and sipped on a strong cup

of coffee while I paged through history books, trying to gain a sense of the place before I turned my attention in a more gastronomic direction.

A SWEDISH SETTLEMENT Unknown to most, the town has a past that is deeply ingrained in the history of Namibia. Swedes were the leading traders and the largest foreign group in the country in the years between 1850 and 1880. Explorer and trader Charles John Andersson had established a trading post at Otjimbingwe in the 1860s. After his death in 1867, a new trading centre was opened in Omaruru by Axel Eriksson with Anders Ohlsson and Thure Een. Herero chief Christian Wilhelm Zeraua also moved from Otjimbingwe around this time making his home on the southern bank of the river, allocating the northern side to the traders and missionaries.

Time has buried most of the history, erasing virtually all traces

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT • A collection of chocolates at Dörgeloh.

• The Zanja Farmstall on the outskirts of town stocks a selection of homemade cheese, fresh farm bread, and jars of preserves.

• Main Street Café: ‘Local ingredients prepared fresh and served with a smile’.

• Teacher Raymond Haibeb at the Omaruru School of Arts.

• Local cheesemaker, Tinkie Cornelissen, in her greenhouse surrounded by flowers.

DID YOU KNOW? The word ‘omaruru’ stems from the Otjiherero word meaning ‘bitter milk’, supposedly referring to the bitter milk the cows produce when they browse on a local bush.

DON’T MISS: •

•

•

•

•

•

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A wine tour & tasting (book your lunch in advance) at the Kristall Kellerei, contact 064 570083/081 127 0954, winery@wederpc.com, www.kristallkellerei.com A visit to Zanja farm stall for handmade cheeses and fresh farm treats; the turnoff is at the end of Wilhelm Zeraua Road, contact 064 570135/081 211 5135 Root carvings at Tikoloshe on the left-hand side as you enter town, contact 064 571 215, tiko@iway. na, www.tikolosheafrika.com Dörgeloh Chocolates, the yellow house in Kerk Street, contact 064 570005/0811286686, chocolates@dgroup.na Franke Tower on Dr Ian Scheepers Street (the keys for the museum and tower are available from the Municipality) Grow Namibia for handcrafted recycled products on Helmut Angula Street, contact 081 128 3366, grow@dgroup.na

under its sands. Today, all that’s left is the old mission house, now a museum (where Axel Eriksson and Fanny Stewardson had the first Christian wedding), the Evangelical Lutheran church, a small, disintegrating building called ‘Lindholm’s House’ and a few scattered graves in the old cemetery. The town, however, still retains its strong German flavour from the early 1900s.

Omaruru slips in and out of history books in the twentieth century, the most notable incident being during the German-Herero war in 1904 when Captain Victor Franke, commander of the Omaruru Company, broke through a ring of Herero soldiers who had besieged the town. The watchtower built in 1907 was named Franke Tower in his honour.

WINE, THE NAMIBIAN WAY It was time to leave the history books, find the few remnants from the past and fill up on Omaruru delights. I drove down Wilhelm Zeraua Road, paid my respects to the chief in the cemetery before crossing the wide and dry (at this time of the year) Omaruru River onto Dr Ian Scheepers Street, to visit one of Namibia’s few wineries.

Kristall Kellerei was originally started in 1990 by Helmut Kluge. His son studied viticulture in Stellenbosch and returned to the farm with the idea of trying to grow grapes. This was a challenge in the Namibian extremes where temperatures can soar into the 40s in summer and dip to -14˚ C in winter. The team was undeterred.

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The hardier cultivars were selected and – with a few tricks like using shade netting to provide relief from the heat and making fires in drums placed under the vines to ease the winter chill – the vineyards proved successful over the years.

The winery and farm were taken over by Michael and Katrin Weder in 2008. Later on, in 2014, Olga Kausch took control of ‘the guest and gastronomy side’, i.e. the retail, wine-tasting and winery tours, as well as lunches. The delicious spread of cheese and meat platters, an assortment of salads and homemade bread is definitely a must to end off the winetasting in proper Omaruru style! Olga led us through the vineyards, her four dogs trailing after us, stopping to tell us (in both German and English) about the grapes and how the high temperatures mean a high sugar content and early harvest, with the white (i.e. Colombard) usually harvested in January and the reds in March.

An environmentally-friendly enterprise, Kristall Kellerei uses drip irrigation in the late afternoon to conserve water, and with no threat of fungi or mildew developing in the Namibian heat there is no need for pesticides. Even the larger pests, like porcupines, are caught in traps and released further away, and the bokkies (the small antelopes like Damara dik-dik and steenbok) that like to nibble on the fruit are gently chased away.

Vineyards merge with the prickly pear fields where Olga told us how schnapps plays a large part in the winery, with monkey orange and prickly pear distilled on the farm in Omaruru and date and pomegranate at Naute Kristall, their new distillery at Naute Dam en route to the Fish River Canyon. This is where they also distil the first Namibia gin – infused with devil’s claw!

After a visit to the cool distillery where the dogs gratefully collapsed in heaps, it was time for the wine tasting and lunch feast. When everyone had seated themselves at the outdoor table to enjoy a lunch spread that included salad greens grown on the adjacent farm and cheese and butter from Zanja Farm, Olga poured the wine, telling us: “It’s a local, lekker lunch.”

On a walk to the greenhouse, past the cows, turkeys and chickens waiting for their afternoon feed, Tinkie explained that the farm is as organic as possible, with no fertilisers or pesticides used except, on occasion, for the roses. Instead, companion planting is the preferred means to deter pests on the flowers and herbs, and the turkeys are the natural ‘pest control’, allowed in every now and then (under close supervision) to peck off the few caterpillars and bugs. I left the farm laden with smoked mozzarella; a snack pack of feta, sundried tomatoes and olives; bottles of pickled chilli; rose jam – and a warm feeling inside.

A SWEET TOUCH TO THE JOURNEY There was still time for one more tasting to place the cherry on the top before I headed westward: chocolate at Dörgeloh Chocolates. It added a delicious and colourful end to an enjoyable and worthwhile detour to Omaruru, leaving a sweet taste with me that mingled and lingered pleasantly with the dollop of intriguing history, friendly townsfolk and delicious fare. TNN

THE LOW-DOWN Omaruru is always a worthwhile place to include in your route from Windhoek to Swakopmund, Brandberg, Twyfelfontein and Etosha. You may want to spend a night – or two – at one of the guesthouses or B&B’s.

FOR A BITE TO EAT: • • • •

Main Street Café Kashana Ongwari Tea Garden Wronsky Haus aka Omaruru Kaffeestube

EVENTS • • • •

Farmers Market: every second Saturday at Wronsky Haus Artist Trail: 23 & 24 September 2016 Oktoberfest: first weekend in October White Flag Day (Zeraua Day): second weekend in October

FLOWERS, HANDMADE CHEESE & TURKEY PEST CONTROL And that seemed to sum up the essence of Omaruru, where food is locally produced and ‘lekker’ -the descriptive Afrikaans word for ‘good’ or ‘delicious’ that is used to describe everything from food to the glorious day. I met the local cheese maker, Tinkie Cornelissen, on her farm on the outskirts of Omaruru. While her husband tends to the animals, Tinkie grows flowers, makes cheese, bakes bread and pickles or preserves anything from jalapeños to beetroot. “It’s just everything that you can produce on a farm,” she explained humbly when I looked at her in amazement, realising that she is more productive than most of us are in a lifetime! From Tinkie I learnt about small-town charm. She delivers fresh bread and her cheeses to the Onyati butchery (and farm stall), and fresh flowers, milk and butter to the pharmacy, which acts as a central outlet. She also sells her products at the farmers’ market every second Saturday, on the Artist Trail in September and at her farm stall (6 km from the town).

Be sure to drop in at the bright yellow house on Kerk Street for a chocolate tasting.

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All Roads Lead to

Nambwa Tented Lodge is located in the Eastern Zambezi Region of Namibia along the Kwando River. It is the only lodge uniquely situated inside the Bwatwata National Park, in the heart of the KAZA and is nestled high amongst majestic trees, honouring the elephants’ right of way below. An authentic walkway joins decadently spacious tented suites, which emanate a feeling of vastness and evoke a gentle balance of serenity.

Nambwa can be ideally packaged with Botswana, Zimbabwe and Zambia., with daily flights from Johannesburg & Cape Town to Vic Falls (Zimbabawe), Livingstone (Zambia), Kasane (Botswana) and 4 Flights a week from Windhoek to Katima. Air Charters or Road transfers are available from all airports.

Vic Falls/Livingstone to Nambwa – 4 to 5 hours. Kasane to Nambwa – 3 to 3.5 hours. Katima to Nambwa – 1.5 hours.

+264 81 125 2122 | +264 61 400 510 marketing@africanmonarchlodges.com | reservations@africanmonarchlodges.com

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Adventure awaits

JOIN SCENIC AIR FOR FLEXIBLE, PERSONAL CHARTERS CATERED TO YOUR SPECIFIC NEEDS!

Windhoek Office: Tel: +264 61 249 268 Email: windhoek@scenic-air.com

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Swakopmund Office: Tel: +264 64 403 575 Email: swakopmund@scenic-air.com

Let’s go on an adventure:

SLACKPACKING in the KHOMAS HOCHLAND

How often have you looked over a fence along a gravel road, wishing you could get on the other side to climb a mountain or walk along a river bed? Not even an hour’s drive from the city centre of Windhoek, neighbouring farmers now invite hikers to climb over their fences, walk along river beds, scale mountains, enjoy spectacular views and then camp out under the stars.

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ne of the first of the Windhoek Green Belt Landscape projects, the Khomas Hochland Hiking Trail north-west of the capital was put to the test by a group of spirited fifty-something Namibian women. Since 2009 this group has hiked many iconic routes in Namibia and South Africa. Apart from the convenience of the trail being so close to Windhoek, they have this to say about their first, but definitely not last, go at it:

“Sleeping under the stars is what I love most about this route.”

“I could not imagine there would be such a variety of huge beautiful trees in the Khomas Hochland.”

“The spectacular 360-degree view from the highest point of the route blew me over.”

“To be so close to the city, yet totally unaware of it, is special.”

ADVENTURE

The six-day hike starts and ends at Düsternbrook Guestfarm, one of the first guest farms in Namibia. The 91-kilometre circular route crosses four more farms: Otjiseva, Onduno, Godeis and Monte Christo. It takes you along riverbeds, across open plains, through thorn-tree woodland, deep gorges and down steep granite rock formations. “This is not a route for beginners. One has to be fit and not suffer vertigo, because on day 5 you have to brave ladders to get down a waterfall; the kind of waterfall one encounters in Namibia - with no water falling. It was definitely more challenging than we anticipated but the reward, once you stand on top of a mountain, makes up for walking on a narrow path with a sheer drop on one side.

And when you are exhausted after 10 kilometres and only halfway through the day, there is always a leafy tree along the path to take a break in the shade and make a cup of tea.”

Warthog, oryx, kudu, mountain zebra, baboons and klipspringer occur in abundance and if you are lucky, you may even encounter a leopard. Depending on the season, hikers will most likely be able to tick off many of the more than 300 recorded bird species at the riverbeds, farm dams and rock pools. There must be a reason why one farmer planned the route through Lovebird Gorge or past Partridge Pool. They certainly had a sense of humour when choosing some of the other names. It must have been lots of fun dreaming up names like Scorpion Hill, Death Valley, Giggle Rest, Kaalgat Rante, Take It Slow but Go and Level On The Gravel.

The group chose the slackpacking option, carrying only a day-pack with water and snacks. Mattresses, bedding and personal luggage are transported to the next overnight shelter

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every morning. The host on whose farm it is provides fresh farm produce ordered in advance by hikers who choose the slackpacking option. The surprise packet contains marinated venison or beef steaks, freshly baked bread and farm-grown veggies. For this group the biggest treat after an exhausting day was a cooler box with ice-cold beer, courtesy of that day’s host farmer.

If you don’t want to sleep under the stars, the host can provide tents and even stretchers, while a hot shower and toilet facilities are a given at the end of each day. The allwomen hiking group was happy to find ample firewood for a big campfire, as well as braai and cooking facilities and appliances, which meant that with Elsbeth’s bag of magic and spices and the fresh produce in the surprise pack, they dined like queens at night.

THE GREEN BELT

The Windhoek Green Belt Landscape is one of five Protected Landscape Conservation Areas launched in 2011, each including a state protected area at its core. With the other PLCAs - around Waterberg Plateau Park (18,763 km2), Sossusvlei (5,730 km2), Fish River Canyon (7,621 km2) and Mudumu (2,047km2) in north-eastern Namibia - almost sixteen thousand square kilometres are under protected management. These are demonstration sites, but the longterm vision of the Namibian Ministry of Environment and Tourism is to expand such areas into a large-scale network in order to address the loss of habitat and other threats to species, to conserve biodiversity, ecosystems and to establish corridors to sustain viable wildlife populations.

Close to Windhoek the PLCA covers 760km2 in the Khomas Hochland plateau west of the capital. The area includes several state and freehold farms used for cattle, game farming, hunting and tourism, and has the Daan Viljoen Game Park at its core. For more information on the project, for lists of bird, plant, trees and animal species as well as information on tourism projects visit www.landscapesnamibia.org.

Every overnight shelter has its own charm, but there is consensus in the group that the most interesting was the treehouse at Onduno, built around an enormous Ana tree.

The route was tested by the Hiking Organisation of Southern Africa. A detailed report by a group of experienced hikers, among them HOSA President Albert Bossert and John Mehliss, is available at www.hikenamibia.com. TNN

TIPS FOR FIRST-TIMERS • • • • • • •

Don’t underestimate how cold the nights can be. Take enough warm bedding.

Don’t talk too much, you may miss the markers.

Especially when the going is good.

Take walking sticks.

A CamelBak hydration system is more convenient to carry than water bottles.

If you are a vegetarian, let the hosts know. Remember this is cattle country.

Apart from the 6-day hike, day hikes are offered on each of the partner farms.

A checklist of bird and tree species can be downloaded.

GET ALL YOUR HIKING AND CAMPING GEAR AT CYMOT! 15 Newcastle Street PO Box 726 Windhoek Tel: (+264 61) 295 6000 info@cymot.com • www.cymot.com

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FRIENDLY ENCOUNTERS THE CORRECT WAY TO SEE A RHINO Text Ilana Stein Photographs Wilderness Safaris

After three hours the rhino trackers had found them. We parked behind a euphorbia and tried to crunch quietly over the stones to a spot where we could see them: wonderful, it was Topnotch, the cow, and her calf Troy – he’s just a year old – and they were making a good breakfast out of some bushes. The two were 200 metres away and completely unaware of us. And that’s the point…

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n an increasingly virtual world a ‘real’ adventure has become rarer than … well, rarer than a desert-adapted black rhino. This unique population, found in the remote north-western Kunene Region of Namibia, is the largest black rhino population in the world to have survived outside of a formally protected park and increased its numbers.

And tracking a “desert rhino,” as they’re commonly known, through the starkly beautiful Palmwag Concession is an experience that can be classified as once in a lifetime.

The luxurious base of this encounter is Desert Rhino Camp, an inspiring story of modern conservation success, bringing Wilderness Safaris, Save the Rhino Trust (SRT) and three conservancies (Torra, Sesfontein and Anabeb) together for the conservation of the desert-adapted black rhino. It is an example of how the private sector, NGOs and local communities can work together to ensure a future for Africa’s wildlife.

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Desert Rhino Camp is the base for one of SRT’s tracking teams and pays for its running costs, while SRT is responsible for rhino activities and monitoring. Wilderness provides financial support to the conservancies in the form of lease payments and guest levies. Thus, every guest of Desert Rhino Camp actively helps to finance rhino conservation.

Back to the adventure. As with all wildlife viewing, a certain amount of luck is needed. Even here, where the animal in question is being tracked by professionals who know every individual in the concession, sometimes it can take a while – or more than a day – to find one. A successful sighting is not dependent on great timing or even the animal. It’s success is based on the whole operation and the people who are involved.

The SRT trackers are fascinating. The night before, around the campfire, they explained the delicate nature

of the tracking and viewing operation to make sure we understand this is more than a sighting – it is an experience where the animal comes first. Jasson, Martjyn and Albertus have chosen this profession, over easier ones perhaps, in their commitment to their critically endangered charges.

The black rhino is known to be shy and easily agitated, moving away from people when disturbed, which often leads them to move out of protected areas into places where poaching can occur. Therefore, if a rhino becomes aware of tourists watching, it may well take off in a hurry – and the whole point of the exercise is defeated.

There is a delicate balance to be weighed here: between Wilderness Safaris offering a world-class rhino conservation experience that allows guests to view the rhino in its natural environment – while at the same time ensuring the safety of the rhino and tourist, and also enabling SRT to collect critical monitoring information.

Based on research carried out since 2005, Rhino Viewing Protocols have been established to help achieve this balance. Aspects such as the ideal viewing distances from the rhino, best time of day to go tracking and how often the same areas or individuals can be tracked to not disturb them, are taken into account.

What a special sighting we had: not one rhino but two, a mother and her youngster, browsing peacefully as we watched intently, while Jasson made notes about who they were, how healthy they looked, what they were doing, etc… and then we left, the two grey animals being none the wiser.

The human element in this conservation effort is extraordinary. Chatting to the trackers over lunch, we learnt more about their dedication: Jasson worked at another camp in maintenance, but felt he wanted to do more, so he joined SRT. Albertus has a farm, but left it to come and protect the rhino. Martyn has been a tracker for 12 years and feels it is his calling. Indeed, all at Desert Rhino Camp see their work as something more than just a job.

That night, the staff gathered to dance and sing. Lilting voices told us, “Thank you for coming – without you, we could not save our rhino.” And then they sang what they call their “rhino song” to the tune of Nkosi Sikelel' iAfrika, eyes closed and hands together, not in prayer but in the shape of a rhino horn. The harmony of the beautiful voices, the smiles flashing in the light of the fire, the fervour of their devotion, combined with the memory of Topnotch and Troy as they went about their lives undisturbed yet protected, created an atmosphere that moved us all to tears.

More than an adventure, this is a journey of the spirit, an encounter not just with a unique animal but with some very exceptional humans. TNN

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This is a collective of Namibia’s most character-filled independent experiences.

This is a celebration of African individuality. This is...

www.naturallynamibia.com

A CASTLE IN THE

DUST CLOUDS

The history of Von Wolf ’s Duwisib Castle Text Christina Rockstroh Photographs Namibia Wildlife Resorts

Duwisib Castle, well hidden in the middle of nowhere, is a large fortified farmhouse. We found the legendary manor house of yore halfway between Mariental and Aus. The battlements and embrasures do not fail to impress, but part of the fascination is the unlikely location in which this ‘castle’ was constructed over 100 years ago.

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ollow the tar road from Mariental to Maltahöhe - an easy drive through an ancient eroded landscape of sparsely vegetated parched plains and scores of flattopped mountains which from a distance appear deceptively smooth as if covered in chocolate cake batter. From Maltahöhe it’s a 38 km dustroad drive on the C14 until the next turn-off onto the D824. As you head southwest over hill and dale for a further 44 km on the D831 and finally the D826, the scenery becomes lively and more varied.

After yet another bend Duwisib Castle comes into view so unexpectedly that you are completely taken by surprise, even if you have seen pictures of the red sandstone oddity sitting on a rise against a backdrop of hills and a massive mountain ridge. If you haven’t seen pictures, don’t imagine the fairytale splendour of famous Neuschwanstein but rather think of the Alte Feste in Windhoek or Fort Namutoni in Etosha National Park.

spot. He commissioned construction of Duwisib in 1907, envisioning a manor estate of grand proportions. He endeavoured to buy several farms with a total area of 140 000 ha but the district authority in Maltahöhe approved only 55 000 ha for his plans to start a horse stud. Hans-Heinrich von Wolf was known as an eccentric character, generous and well-liked in the district. In the short time he spent at Duwisib he managed to establish a successful stud farm. For decades it was assumed that Duwisib was the origin of the wild horses of the Namib. According to more recent

Baron Hans-Heinrich von Wolf, a captain of the Royal Saxon Artillery, certainly knew how to pick a lovely

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research they are believed to be descended from dispersed South African army horses and from the herds of a stud closer to Aus. The extraordinary farmhouse was designed by Wilhelm Sander, the renowned architect who built the three castles overlooking Windhoek. Artisans from various European countries were hired to construct this fine specimen of Wilhelmine neo-romanticism which sports elements of the gothic and renaissance styles. The sandstone was quarried in the vicinity but just about everything else was imported and carted to Duwisib from Lüderitzbucht, more than 300 km away, on almost non-existent bumpy tracks. Ox wagons were constantly on the move with expensive furniture, carpets and pieces of art for the palatial interior of 22 rooms. Despite the formidable logistics Duwisib was ready for occupation in 1909.

ROYALTY FOR A NIGHT Ever wanted to stay in a castle? NWR completed renovations on Duwisib Castle in 2014. You can now book a stay in one of 5 rooms. There are also 10 campsites on the grounds for the more outdoorsy visitors.

GETTING THERE Duwisib is located 390km south of Windhoek, a drive of about 4.5 hours from the capital. It makes for a great stopover on your way to Sesriem and Sossusvlei.

DID YOU KNOW? Duwisib Castle’s museum houses a collection of 18th and 19th century antiques, armours and paintings for the history buffs.

The layout of Duwisib Castle is a simple rectangle with three wings of rooms around a courtyard closed by a plain high wall at the rear end. The gothic entrance opens into the hall of knights, decorated with a collection of arms and armours, trophies and pictures. A narrow staircase on the side leads up to a musicians’ balcony and a gentlemen’s room in the tower. Everything else is at ground level: a large panelled dining room, a drawing room from the Biedermeier period and the private quarters of the von Wolf couple in the main section at the front of the building, as well as the various rooms in the colonnaded side wings. The fountain that supplied the whole household with water babbles in the attractive courtyard. The big old jacarandas and makalani palm trees - planted by von Wolf himself - have long since grown higher than the walls and the tower and now form a

luscious green canopy over the courtyard which turns lilac with blooms in spring.

The gallant captain and his wife Jayta enjoyed their stately home for just five years. When WWI broke out in 1914 the couple was on their way to Britain to buy a thoroughbred stallion. Instead, they travelled to Germany and von Wolf reported for military duty. Two weeks later he was killed in the battle of the Somme. Jayta never returned to Duwisib.

Today, Duwisib is operated as an accommodation establishment by Namibia Wildlife Resorts. An ideal stopover on the way to Sesriem and Sossusvlei, this historical landmark rises from the arid Namibian landscape like a mirage… A castle in the dust clouds. TNN

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NAMIBIA PANORAMA

Hentie Burger

Text Annabelle Venter Photographs Hentie Burger

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Panorama n. an unbroken view of the whole region surrounding an observer. (Oxford dictionary)

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PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE

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hotographically speaking I have always favoured the 2x1 format of panoramic images. So it was with interest that I looked forward to Hentie Burger’s first book, Namibia Panorama, launched in July this year in Windhoek. He hinted that it would be something different and he certainly did not disappoint!

Namibia is a land of vast open spaces, and what the visitor will remember about this country are the huge vistas.

Namibia Panorama is a book filled with visual treasures that capture this sense of space wonderfully well, and the panorama format gives you even ‘more image for your money’ if you like to put it that way. Each image depicts the sense of space in Namibia that both locals and visitors value so highly. With room to breathe and to think, one’s eye is drawn across the page to take in the whole vista.

This is important because most of us will never see these scenes otherwise – such as the spectacular aerial view of the Chudob waterhole in Etosha National Park. He has spent many hours flying with pilot friends to capture these impressions from above.

Hentie’s variety of subjects illustrates just how diverse Namibia is. From elephants in a dry river bed and colourful community meetings to close-ups of delicate lilies and rare lichens, windmills on remote farms and our famous wildlife: Hentie has captured it all.

Namibia Panorama is Hentie Burger’s first book – his ‘firstborn’ as he calls it and Hilda-Marie, his wife and business associate of 40 years, has been the diligent midwife at the birth of this book.

In today’s world where everyone is a ‘photographer’ on social media, this book stands out as a carefully considered and well-executed masterpiece of the life’s work of a professional photographer.

Hentie hinted at the launch that there may be a sibling or two on the horizon and we look forward to any subsequent offspring.

Self-published by Hentie and printed by John Meinert Printing in Windhoek, this is a truly Namibian product that you need to have on your bookshelf. And of course it’s the perfect Christmas gift this year.

You can find Namibia Panorama in Windhoek at Foto Namibia in the Namibia Craft Centre, Namibia Book Market, the Scientific Society, Johan Steyn PhotoVision, Wecke Voigts, Windhoek Buchhandlung, Book Den and Rogl Souvenirs. In Swakopmund it is available at Die Muschel, Art Africa and Swakopmunder Buchhandlung, in Etosha National Park at Halali Rest Camp and in Mariental at Aneljo Boekwinkel. It is also available in Cape Town, South Africa at Buchhandlung Naumann (www.buchhandlungnaumann.co.za). TNN

The layout of one image on the right hand page, per double spread, allows room for a map on the left side with general location information.

Each image has a carefully selected title and a short description of the subject and its location in English, French and German.

The compact size and the unusual format make this book a winner. Roughly 30cm x 15cm, with 184 printed pages, weighing just over 700 grams, it’s the ideal visual souvenir to stash into your luggage and remind you of Namibia’s beautiful and secret spaces once you’re back home.

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PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE

MEET THE PHOTOGRAPHER Hentie is a Namibian photographer based in Windhoek whose work spans some 25 years. Several years back he made the successful transition from dental professional to full-time photographer, and his prolific work is prominently displayed all over Namibia.

One simply cannot place Hentie in a single category of wildlife or landscape artist.

His interest and expertise cover a vast range of subjects, from cultural, abstract and aerial photography to his recent foray into food photography! I would describe this photographer’s work as creative versatility.

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FOODIES

IN THE WAKE OF Fourteen Brave Warriors Text and Photographs Christie Keulder

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he wore bright red lipstick. Lots of it, and I could see that she was quite embarrassed. Blushing, with her eyes fixed to the floor she tried to stuff all my items into a small, multi-coloured paper bag. Two pairs of latex gloves, an enema pump (without powder) and some rub alcohol.

On my way back to the car I popped into a supermarket to get a beverage. Of all the supermarkets in town this one is very different. It is none of the well-lit, neatly organized kind. It has these dark little corners and counters stacked with weird and interesting stuff. It’s smells different too.

She had to recount my change twice and nearly dropped the bag as she handed it over to me. It was clear she was new at the pharmacy.

Kind of like your auntie with the sweet, cheap perfume coming home after she’d worked in the vegetable garden on her way back from a prolonged visit to the fishmonger.

Surf-and-turf with a hint of eau de Cologne.

On a shelf near the entrance I spotted rows of small plastic bags filled with small dried fish. Kapenta!

Kapenta consists of two species, Limnothrissa miodon and Stolothrissa tanganicae. The Tanganyika sardine is a small planktivorous, pelagic, freshwater clupeid originating from Lake Tanganyika in East Africa. There it goes by the name Daaga or Ndgaa.

Written records of Kapenta fishing date back nearly two centuries. In 1860 the explorer Richard Burton observed fishermen using circular nets and the light from a mbaula (a wood-fired brazier) to catch small fish in Lake Tanganyika.

The first attempt to introduce Kapenta fish into the waters of Southern Africa dates back to February 1962. The mission failed as all harvested fry died before they could be released.

A year later 350 fry were harvested and transported to Mbala from where they were airlifted and flown to Kariba Airport and then driven to the lake itself. Only about 45% survived the seven-and-half-hour journey. Half of those died the next day in the holding facility. Of the original 350, only 14 survived and were kept in a holding net in the lake itself. Three months later a storm destroyed the net, and our 14 brave warriors escaped captivity to become the first Kapenta ever to swim freely in Lake Kariba.

discovering namibia starts here

Another 26 airlifts were made between July and November of 1967 and 250,000 fry were released. The following year a total of 120,000 found a new home in Lake Kariba.

Commercial Kapenta fishing started on the then Rhodesian side of the lake in 1976 and on the Zambian side four years later. Amazingly, some fish had even made their way 220 km downstream to Cahora Bassa in Mozambique.

Most fish are caught using boats (called rigs), a dip net and lights to attract them to the surface.

Once caught, the fish are either salted or iced depending on whether they are to be sold as dried and salted or frozen Kapenta.

Dried Kapenta has a long shelf-life (some say 6 months), making it a valuable source of protein in areas with no refrigeration.

Little as they are, these fish pack a mean protein punch, especially when dried. Dried Kapenta contains nearly three times as many calories as fresh Kapenta and nearly four times more protein. Two cups of dried Kapenta could easily meet the daily protein requirements of a small family. The iron content of the dried fish is also higher.

An additional benefit is that Kapenta can be bought in small quantities and is easy and quick to cook. According to oral tradition Kapenta means ‘ladies’ painted lips’, suggesting that this is the perfect dish for idle urban ladies who’d rather spend their time in the beer hall than in the kitchen.

The few Kapenta dishes that I had before were all made with some variation of a basic tomato and onion sauce. I found this understandable given that I first had Kapenta in the poor areas of Lusaka, but for me it was a bit bland.

Trying to find my way back into the traffic I had to pass the pharmacy again. I caught another glimpse of her, attending to another customer. This time she was smiling, her cheeks no longer the colour of her lipstick.

I never told her that the stuff in the multi-coloured paper bag was not intended for my own intimate use. I use it to clean my cameras. TNN

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Sipping

SUNSETS Photographs Marcii Goosen

A photographer once said that before he actually visited Namibia he was determined not to take photos of the sunset at every destination. “It is so boring. Sunset over the pan, sunset on top of a dune, sunset over the jetty, sunset on the beach.” Then he arrived for his three-week safari and when we talked to him afterwards, he laughed and admitted that he now fully understood that sunsets in this desert country are just irresistible. And even more so when you look through a lens.

Travel News Namibia asked travelling artist Marcii Goosen to visit some of the well-known Windhoek sunset spots for a sundowner and see if she found the same allure through her lens.

HOTEL THULE IN KLEIN WINDHOEK My first stop was Hotel Thule which according to the locals used to be a luxury home, built in the sixties. How lucky we are that it is now open for all of us sunset seekers: it has a lovely view of the city and the surrounding Klein Windhoek suburbs. Lined by palm trees, this laid-back hilltop is where you want to be when the sun sets, to capture those warm golden hues in the frame.

When the last rays disappear and the inversion layer loses its intensity, it is time to put your camera away and order a cocktail and a locally inspired tapas platter. If you are lucky enough to be there on a night of a full moon, watch the shining orb rise over the hills in the east. If it is a super moon and you have a tripod at hand, you will be the envy of the dark sky tribe.

HOTEL HEINITZBURG ON TOP OF THE HILL For my second sunset in Windhoek I opted for a heritage site. No wonder German architect Wilhelm Sander chose this perfect location to build three castles. They were constructed more than a century ago when there were few other buildings, so he had many hills to choose from. When you have climbed all the steps from the parking area to the terrace, and found a seat facing west, you will know why he considered this spot to be the best. What he could not have known was that a hundred years later it would still provide a perfect view of the city centre spread out against the backdrop of the Khomas Hochland. Come early for a front seat and a steady place for your tripod. If it takes you until after dark to test the extensive cocktail menu, move over to Leo’s at the Castle for dinner and a view of the glittering city lights. Tibor Raith’s menu is as well-known as the historical setting of the hotel on top of the hill. How fortunate that the Raith family converted this special building into a boutique hotel, for all of us to enjoy. The other two castles are private homes, to be admired from a distance.

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GOCHEGANAS IN THE BUSH On day three I decided to drive out of town and see whether Windhoek is truly a ‘city in the bush’, as some say. How long will it take me to leave the city behind and be surrounded by the bush? I went south on the B1 to Aris, then turned east and voilà: I was on a gravel road and in the bush in less than 30 minutes. Only 29 kilometres southeast of Windhoek is the gate to the ‘place of the camel-thorn trees’ where a family of giraffes waited to greet me. Well, maybe not quite. They were licking salt stone at the waterhole. I parked my car where the gravel path stopped, then walked up the hill past pretty chalets and the recognisable view through the tall window of the spa and, still higher, to the dining room and terrace with a view over an incredible landscape. More difficult than choosing from the cocktail menu was to decide where to actually sit down to enjoy my drink. Should it be the cosy bar with its 270-degree view, the terrace or the loungers around the pool, overlooking a waterhole? One needs three sunsets to do justice to each of the stunning vistas. I chose the loungers because three white rhino were walking towards the waterhole below and it was just so comfortable having the late afternoon sun on my face on a chilly Namibian winter day. Next time I will have to stay for three nights, not only because of the extensive cocktail menu which includes healthy non-alcoholic smoothies, but also because of the wellness centre and the many unexplored trails and paths. I want to see more of these rhinos.

MORE THAN OLIVES AT THE OLIVE EXCLUSIVE Day four was spent back in town. This time with my back to the sun but in a setting fit for a queen. A queen with modern tastes.

This small boutique hotel in a tranquil corner of Windhoek is chic and contemporary – a hidden gem with an African soul. In the golden hour before sunset African fire drums beat up the vibe on the wide veranda. Don’t just walk past the bar. First admire the way in which the bottles are displayed. And if you then decide to choose a drink from the classic selection of fine whiskeys instead of a sundowner cocktail, you will be forgiven. This is not the place to come to for only one sunset either. The new cocktail and tapas menu is just too enticing. Looking down from the veranda onto the olive grove below, I decided to return for the special dinner menu and then, someday, book accommodation so that I can walk down to my suite through the olive grove.

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BAR IN THE SKY AT THE HILTON On day five I sampled the pulse of the city centre and the sky-bar on the roof of the Hilton. Make sure you ride to the top in the elevator with the glass panel. Walk past the swimming pool where someone may be doing a lapse or two and some may be stretched out on loungers wrapped in white towels after a spa treatment. Businessmen glued to their laptops sit at the bar counter. This is an urban hangout where international tourists toast the sun with a selfie and local funksters have their own party on the side. It's a bustling melting pot with a panoramic view. If you want to see what construction is going on in the city centre, this is the perfect vantage point. But to the west, past the setting sun, one can see where the city ends and the bush begins. If you plan to travel to Sossusvlei, track the route along the Kupferberg road that leads westwards to the Khomas Hochland. For this view you have to stand close to the edge of the deck. The Hilton Sky Bar offers an experimental take on cocktails and a regional and international selection of wine, beer and whiskey. As can be expected, a variety of light meals and snacks are served at the bar, varying from seafood platters, pizzas, burgers and salads to sushi.

CROSSING A RIVER Day six took me to River Crossing Lodge on the foothills of the Auas Mountain range southeast of the city. Look out for the quaint steel bridge where the railway line passes overhead as you drive east towards the international airport. After the bridge you turn right onto a gravel road winding through grey thorn bushes. I was reminded of life on a remote farm. So close to the city yet so rural, with fences and farm gates, goats and cattle and an assortment of signboards at every turnoff. Nuances of farm-style architecture are found in the wide balconies and rustic finishes of the buildings on the way to the welcoming entrance of the main building. This is a quick nature escape for a sundowner and a snack, with dramatic views of Windhoek from the deck. The lodge is located high enough for spectacular views of sunset, moonrise and flickering city lights as well as for star gazing. Just choose your spot and set up your tripod. And start out early, because the drive is part of the charm. I will have to come back to stay, because there are hiking trails and I hear Andrew Gilles, the king of horse safaris, is based here. TNN

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Photo © Paul van Schalkwyk

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