Spitzkoppe Community Campsite

A Spitzkoppe Sojourn

I can still recall the first time I saw the Spitzkoppe. I was in my teens, travelling with my family on vacation to one of Namibia’s most iconic geological formations. I had slept through much of the six-hour drive, and when I finally woke up – still groggy and heavy with sleep – evening was just setting in. As we circled around looking for a spot to pitch our tent, I peered out of the car window. It felt like I had been unknowingly airlifted and landed on an entirely different planet. The inky night sky was pierced with a million glittering, luminous stars. Shadowy, sharp massifs towered above us; even the moon seemed oddly dwarfed by these mysterious peaks of protruding rock. The place felt both prehistoric and cosmic. That otherworldly sense has never quite faded, even though I have since returned to Spitzkoppe countless times as an adult.

Where giants roam

In the western reaches of the Erongo Region, a flat expanse of semi-desert savannah extends northwards, where the otherwise unbroken horizon is crowned by the unmistakable craggy-shaped domes of the Spitzkoppe.

Spitzkoppe, a granite inselberg often nicknamed the “Matterhorn of Namibia” for its pointed, jagged profile, stretches 600 to 700 metres above the Namib plains. Forged by time from the eroded remnants of an ancient subterranean mass of solidified lava – much like the Brandberg and Erongo mountains – it is estimated to be more than 120 million years old. The tallest of its many outcrops stands at 1,728 metres above sea level.

Leaving Windhoek and its concrete cityscapes behind, we travel towards the north-central part of the country, known as Damaraland. The landscape, ringed by the Erongo mountains, is populated with crooked yet surprisingly tall termite hills rising from the earth. Scattered among them stands the familiar camelthorn tree, its branches buoyant and sunny with yellow blossoms from the recent rains. Located roughly 280 kilometres from Windhoek – merely a three-hour drive from the capital – Spitzkoppe is reached via the B2 highway, with the small town of Usakos along the way. I may be a little partial here, but for the intrepid, self-sufficient traveller, few experiences rival camping at Spitzkoppe. Among the available accommodation options, Spitzkoppe Community Campsite, though the most basic when compared to the nearby chalets and the luxurious Spitzkoppen Lodge, offers the unique allure of simplicity and solitude.

What to know before you go

This camping alternative is not only far more affordable for the cash-strapped backpacker, but also offers no-frills, easily accessible logistics. Travelling mostly on tarred roads, a stretch of well-maintained gravel takes you directly to the campsite’s reception. Spitzkoppe Community Campsite offers 31 designated camping spots spread across the park. Some sites are completely secluded, while others are grouped in clusters of two or three. Camping here is delightfully unstructured:

it’s first come, first served, but there is rarely a frantic sprint of competitive campers scrambling for a spot. There always seems to be enough space to go around! For added privacy, some sites are more tucked away, with rugged rock overhangs providing welcome shade before the morning sun starts to turn.

The campsites are minimally equipped, with no running water or electricity. There are no flushing toilets at the individual sites; instead, pit latrines (also referred to as “long drops”) are conveniently located at various camping spots, along with waste bins and fireplaces. For this reason, it is strongly recommended to stock up on all essentials before heading out to Spitzkoppe, especially water for drinking, washing or cooking. Firewood is available for purchase at reception. Upon check-in, you’ll receive a simple navigational map of the campsite area. Guests can prebook meals at a small restaurant and bar located at reception, where you’ll also find hot showers and flushing toilets.

Still, I would daringly propose taking full advantage of camping wild and temporarily trade cushioned comfort for the sake of an unadulterated, immersive adventure. With its raw, rural setting, this camping option invites you to unplug, leave your devices behind and truly disconnect from the digital white noise in our lives.

From stargazing to daydreaming

On our first evening, with braaied meat and garlic bread sizzling on the grill and another liberal layer of mosquito repellent applied, we move our camping chairs closer to the fire and listen. At first, the quiet feels deafening, save for the soothing “ooh-oh” of an owl and our crackling campfire. Eventually, the stillness settles around us like an old friend.

Here, the geography resembles a giant’s playground – boulders rearranged and seemingly moved at whim. At night, Spitzkoppe is transformed, giving your imagination free rein. We gaze at the colossal outlines and guess what abstract art form they might resemble: a hull of a ship, a slumbering whale, or perhaps an outstretched hand? Ridges and contoured slopes have been carved out through the millennia, formed and folded like pastry dough, yet now strangely immovable and ancient. Spitzkoppe, in its secluded enchantment, presents a perfect environment for astrophotography. With the camera carefully angled on a chair, we capture dizzying galaxies darting across the clear night sky in an experimental timelapse. The Southern Sky unveils the Milky Way, Orion’s Belt and the Southern Cross –constellations Northerners seldom get to see.

First thing the next morning, we set out to explore. The earlier you start, the easier and more refreshing the hikes are likely to be. Generally, it is best to visit Spitzkoppe during the dry season, from May to October, when the cooler weather makes hiking and walking more enjoyable. Even in the pleasantly crisp climate expected at the end of May in Namibia, temperatures can still rise sharply during the day. Be sure to wear a hat, apply sunscreen, and keep ample drinking water close at hand.

Guided hikes are available for those unsure of where to start and can be arranged at reception. Routes include the Matterhorn and Pontok trails, some of which require a technical edge. Be sure to keep an eye out for two iconic landmarks: the oft-photographed Rock Arch, a striking stone bridge that has become a favourite among photographers (especially during golden hour), and the Rock Pool, a rain-fed basin formed between the granite rocks.

One of the highlights at Spitzkoppe is Bushman Paradise, a fascinating site where you can view ancient rock engravings left behind by the Khoisan people centuries ago. These art tours offer a glimpse into the beliefs and daily life of one of Southern Africa’s oldest cultural groups. Due to past damage and the need to preserve this heritage, access to the site is only allowed with a guide, who also brings the history of the area to life through stories and local context that add depth.

However, for the traveller who values autonomy when traversing new terrains, self-guided and slow-paced explorations are best for making the most of your time at Spitzkoppe. The smaller rock formations at Spitzkoppe are moderately easy to climb, with smooth and gradual gradients. Comparatively, these steady ascents might not be much in terms of elevation, but the view is nonetheless still rewarding.

As we wind our way along undulating dirt trails, desert-toned lizards skittle under our feet, quick as a flash. Nimble dassies (rock hyraxes) scamper through narrow clefts in the rocks, while inquisitive squirrels peek at us from their burrowed hideouts. The air is alive with birdlife: we spot Weavers, Hornbills, Pale-Winged Starlings, and cheeky Warblers pecking away at campsite scraps with no shame. We cannot help but notice surprising streams of water trickling down from a rock face – happy evidence of a generous rainy season experienced throughout Namibia.

As sunset nears, the granite composition of the rocks turn the peaks into hues of glowing pink, which slowly deepen to a rich, reddening ochre. We watch as night arrives and the first star flickers into view. At Spitzkoppe, you don’t escape the world. You reconnect with it through stillness.

Madeleen Duvenhage