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Whispers of the Wild

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Special Commentary

Special Commentary

Journey Through the Heart of KAZA

There is a moment just after take-off, as Windhoek’s hills slip from view, when silence settles and the anticipation begins. I am heading northeast, beyond Namibia’s familiar mountains, savannahs and desertscapes, flying into a world shaped not by scarcity, but by abundance. A world of green waterways, shifting herds, and ancient wilderness. The Zambezi Region is a finger of fertile land stretching deep into the heart of southern Africa, and the gateway to one of the most ambitious conservation projects on the continent: the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area, known simply as KAZA.

From the air, Katima Mulilo appears like a scatter of rooftops nestled between ribbons of green forest. It is not just a town; it is a threshold. After touching down at Mpacha Airport, we head into the capital of the region. A lively and vibrant town at the edge of the Zambezi River. In Katima, cultures merge with the energetic rhythm quintessential to African life. Close to nature, not separate from it. Here, I step into a landscape where borders blur and nature reigns, at the very heart of KAZA. Five countries – Namibia, Botswana, Angola, Zambia and Zimbabwe – have joined forces to create a conservation mosaic spanning over 500,000 square kilometres. It is the largest transboundary protected area in the world.

From Katima Mulilo, our journey heads west to the Kwando River, which flows through Bwabwata National Park. Bwabwata is unlike any other park I have visited. It is part wilderness, part community. Villages exist alongside roaming elephant herds, and the rustle in the reeds could be hippos at play or a fisherman casting his net. The park is a marvel of balance, where conservation and cohabitation go hand in hand. Herds of red lechwe bound through papyrus marshes, crocodiles lurk in the shallows, and above, African Fish Eagles pierce the silence with their haunting calls. In the morning light, I watched sable antelope melt into the forest, their horns silhouetted like ancient spears. At Horseshoe Bend, a pack of African Wild Dogs relax on the riverbank, bellies round and full, muzzles tinged red by their morning meal.

Beyond Bwabwata lay more natural wonders to discover. As we continue south through Namibia’s curious geographic extension, known colloquially as the Caprivi Strip, we dip into Mudumu National Park, a lesser-known yet equally mesmerising sanctuary. Its flat floodplains are alive with game: roan antelope weaving through acacia bushland, buffalo congregating in thundering herds, and elephants crossing the roads with quiet authority. Mudumu feels like a secret wanting to be kept, more peaceful than its famous neighbours but just as rich in wildlife.

Further along the journey, we arrive at the untamed floodplains of Nkasa Rupara National Park, Namibia’s largest wetland area of conservation importance. This is a landscape shaped by water, teeming with life and alive with movement. We drift silently through water channels on a river cruise, startling Pied Kingfishers and watching elephants wade shoulder-deep through the lilies. At dawn, the mist lifted slowly to reveal buffalo moving across the plains like ancient spirits. It is easy to forget you are still in Namibia; Nkasa Rupara feels more like a quiet cousin to Botswana’s Okavango Delta fame.

And that is no coincidence. Here, the Kwando River transforms into the Linyanti as it crosses into Botswana. KAZA is a place of transformation – of rivers and landscapes, of borders and perspectives. It is a living, breathing conservation landscape, where elephants move freely across nations, and where protecting lions in one country ensures their survival in another. As we travel eastwards, we reach the Chobe River, where Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe meet. A quadripoint at the confluence of the Zambezi and Chobe rivers. On the Namibian side lies Impalila Island, a jewel set between mighty rivers. The air here is thick with birdsong, and the waters are alive with tigerfish and crocodiles. Across the river is Kasane, one of Botswana’s tourism hubs and the gateway to Chobe National Park, home to the largest elephant population on the planet. The animals move like tides, hundreds of them descending to the river at once to drink, bathe and dust themselves in the golden light.

Further inland lies Maun, the bustling heart of Botswana’s safari industry and the entry point to the Okavango Delta. I have long dreamt of the Delta’s flooded channels, where mokoros glide silently past reedbuck, and jacanas walk atop lily pads. It is one of Earth’s last great sanctuaries, a place of serenity and abundance, where each moment feels suspended in time.

But our route now takes us further north and into Zimbabwe, to Victoria Falls, one of the world’s most iconic natural wonders. Known locally as Mosi-oa-Tunya, or 'The Smoke That Thunders', the roar of the falls precedes their sight. The spray rises in towering clouds, and standing at the edge of the gorge, I was overcome by the sheer power of the water. This is not just a waterfall; it is a living monument to nature’s force. Beyond the town of Victoria Falls lies neighbouring Livingstone and the bountiful Zambia. Even further afield yet still within the realm of nature celebrated by KAZA is our northern neighbour, Angola. KAZA is more than a destination. It is a vision. A model of cross-border cooperation and ecological stewardship, where governments, communities and conservationists work hand in hand. It is a reminder that Africa’s wild places do not end at fences or rivers, but stretch across political lines, sustained by shared purpose and deep respect for the natural world. And it is a region ripe for exploration by intrepid travellers looking for the perfect balance of nature and adventure. The wild is calling…

As the sun set over the mopane woodlands and the calls of distant lions echoed through the valleys, I realised I was not merely passing through KAZA. I was witnessing a future where nature takes precedence, where borders soften, and where the wild still whispers to those willing to listen.

Accessing KAZA

Reaching this incredible region has never been easier. FlyNamibia offers scheduled flights from Windhoek into Katima Mulilo, Maun in Botswana and Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. These flights provide seamless access to the core of the KAZA landscape, ideal for travellers wishing to explore the wilderness without long overland journeys.

For luxury safari-goers, Westair Aviation, in collaboration with Gondwana Collection Namibia, has recently launched the Flyin Zambezi product. This exclusive lodge-hopping service, with a dedicated aircraft based in Katima Mulilo, allows guests to travel directly between lodges and airstrips across the region. It is the perfect option for those who want to maximise their time in the wilderness, while travelling in style and comfort.

Elzanne McCulloch

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