Travel News Namibia Spring 2018

Namibia TRAVEL NEWS

WWW.TRAVELNEWSNAMIBIA.COM

VOLUME 26 No 5 | SPRING 2018

Dramatic vistas of

KAOKOLAND 100 YEARS

BRANDBERG'S WHITE LADY NYAE NYAE PANS IN THE RAIN

Etendeka Hike untouched nature

Rhinos

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GENERAL Surface area: 824,268 km² Capital: Windhoek Independence: 21 March 1990 Current president: Hage Geingob Multiparty parliament Democratic constitution Division of power between executive, legislature and judiciary Secular state—freedom of religion (90% Christian) Freedom of the press/media

ENVIRONMENT Nature reserves: 15% of surface area Highest mountain: Brandberg Other prominent mountains: Spitzkoppe, Moltkeblick, Gamsberg Perennial rivers: Orange, Kunene, Okavango, Zambezi and Kwando/ Linyanti/Chobe Ephemeral rivers: Numerous, including Fish, Kuiseb, Swakop and Ugab

FLORA 14 vegetation zones 120 species of trees 200 endemic plant species 100 plus species of lichen Living fossil plant: Welwitschia mirabilis

ECONOMY Main sectors: Mining, fishing, tourism and agriculture Biggest employer: Agriculture (46%) Fastest-growing sector: Tourism Mining: Diamonds, uranium, copper, lead, zinc, magnesium, cadmium, arsenic, pyrites, silver, gold, lithium minerals, dimension stones (granite, marble, blue sodalite) and many semiprecious stones

PHYSICAL INFRASTRUCTURE Roads: 5,450 km tarred, 37,000 km gravel

Venture Media 2018 www.travelnewsnamibia.com

Harbours: Walvis Bay, Lüderitz Main airports: Hosea Kutako International Airport, Eros Airport, 46 airstrips Rail network: 2,382 km narrow gauge Telecommunications: 6.2 telephone lines per 100 inhabitants Direct-dialling facilities to 221 countries Mobile communication system: GSM agreements with 117 countries / 255 networks Postal service: affiliated to the Universal Postal Union

SOCIAL INFRASTRUCTURE

FOREIGN REPRESENTATION More than 50 countries have Namibian consular or embassy representation in Windhoek.

TAX AND CUSTOMS All goods and services are priced to include value-added tax of 15%. Visitors may reclaim VAT. Enquiries: Ministry of Finance Tel (+264 61) 23 0773 in Windhoek

MONEY MATTERS

One medical doctor per 3,650 people Three privately run hospitals in Windhoek with intensive-care units Medical practitioners (world standard) 24-hour medical emergency services

Currency: The Namibia Dollar (N$) is fixed to and on par with the SA Rand. The South African Rand is also legal tender.

Foreign currency, international Visa, MasterCard, American Express and Diners Club credit cards are accepted.

POPULATION

DRINKING WATER

2.5 million Density: 2.2 per km² 400 000 inhabitants in Windhoek (15% of total) Official language: English 14 regions, 13 ethnic cultures 16 languages and dialects Adult literacy rate: 85% Population growth rate: 2.6% Educational institutions: over 1,700 schools, various vocational and tertiary institutions

FAUNA Big game: Elephant, lion, rhino, buffalo, cheetah, leopard, giraffe 20 antelope species 240 mammal species (14 endemic) 250 reptile species 50 frog species 676 bird species Endemic birds including Herero Chat, Rockrunner, Damara Tern, Monteiro’s Hornbill and Dune Lark

Most tap water is purified and safe to drink.

Visitors should exercise caution in rural areas.

TRANSPORT Public transport is NOT available to all tourist destinations in Namibia.

There are bus services from Windhoek to Swakopmund as well as Cape Town/ Johannesburg/Vic Falls. Namibia’s main railway line runs from the South African border, connecting Windhoek to Swakopmund in the west and Tsumeb in the north. There is an extensive network of international and regional flights from Windhoek and domestic charters to all destinations.

TIME ZONES GMT + 2 hours

ELECTRICITY 220 volts AC, 50hz, with outlets for round three-pin type plugs

www.namibiatourism.com.na

Namibia TRAVEL NEWS

The magic of exploring Namibia - sunsets combined with the most astounding vistas for as far as the eye can see...

Kaokoland, north of the Hoanib River by Elzanne Erasmus

is published by Venture Media in Windhoek, Namibia www.travelnewsnamibia.com Tel: +264 61 383 450, Hyper City Unit 44, Maxwell street, Southern Industrial PO Box 21593, Windhoek, Namibia MANAGING EDITOR Rièth van Schalkwyk PRODUCTION MANAGER Elzanne Erasmus elzanne@venture.com.na PUBLIC RELATIONS Janine van der Merwe janine@venture.com.na LAYOUT & DESIGN Liza de Klerk CUSTOMER SERVICE Bonn Nortjé bonn@venture.com.na ONLINE EDITOR Nina van Schalkwyk nina@venture.com.na TEXT CONTRIBUTORS Elzanne Erasmus, Pompie Burger, Nina van Schalkwyk, Annelien Robberts, Willie Olivier, Rièth van Schalkwyk, Oliver Halsey, Antoinette De Chavonnes Vrugt, Conrad Brain, Christine Hugo, Kimber Brain

PHOTOGRAPHERS Elzanne Erasmus, Annelien Robberts, Nina van Schalkwyk, Pompie Burger, Paul van Schalkwyk, Conrad Brain, Rièth van Schalkwyk, Gerhard Thirion, Kalla Laubscher, Oliver Halsey, Emsie Erastus, Willie Olivier, Hentie Burger, Elmarie van Rensburg, Stefan Hugo, Conrad Brain, Namibia Wildlife Resorts PRINTERS John Meinert Printing, Windhoek Travel News Namibia is published quarterly, distributed worldwide and produced solely on Apple Macintosh equipment. The editorial content of TNN is contributed by the Venture Media team, freelance writers and journalists. It is the sole property of the publisher and no part of the magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

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VENTURE MEDIA Venture Media is the pioneer of Namibia tourism promotion. We are the leader in spreading the tourism word around the world. We distribute accurate, credible, up to date and regular tourism-related information on paper, in social media, on the World Wide Web, and on mobile apps. We have reached hundreds of thousands over more than two decades. Be part of our community and let’s do it together.

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TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA is a high-quality glossy Namibia travel and lifestyle magazine tasked with promoting Namibia to the world. Travel News Namibia is published quarterly in English and annually in German.

The NAMIBIA HOLIDAY & TRAVEL is an annual tourism directory with over 200 pages of updated information on the country, regions, people, activities and wildlife.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

SPRING THROUGH NEW EYES A few years ago, Namibia hosted the Adventure Travel World Summit. One of the speakers was Pico Iyer, who subsequently became one of my favourite travel writers. Probably because he really connected to Namibia and, I believe, found its soul. In a previous edition I quoted from an essay of his that one of the more subtle beauties of travel is that it enables you to “bring new eyes” to the people you encounter. I want to add to this that the real delight is when people you encounter during your travels bring new eyes to you.

I was granted such an experience this winter. We trekked through areas where I have been travelling since I was a child. That I have seen from all angles and in all seasons, countless times. I cannot remember ever being so excited and alert on any of these trips as I was this time, when I looked at everything through the eyes of my three friends, one from the United States who had never been to Namibia. Of course an added bonus was having my seasoned guide-friend Gerhard with us to direct our gaze and choose the perfect viewpoint. Nevertheless, I was in awe.

The big challenge for writers is to then put that awe into words.

The winter activities started with our Travel News Namibia initiative: the annual RMB Namibia Ride for Rhinos at Wêreldsend.

It continued around the Wilderness Safaris Desert Rhino Camp private concession near Palmwag and ended at Damaraland Camp. After that exhilarating event, Dennis Liebenberg introduced us to his new hiking trail and sky tents at Etendeka Mountain Camp. In between we visited Tannie Fredricka Basson in De Riet to deliver our magazine with her story in it. En route we watched a herd of elephant sauntering down the Huab River. We travelled past the Krone Canyon and then headed northward, through Sesfontein, to visit the new Natural Selection Hoanib Valley Camp.

And that was just Elzanne and I. The rest of the team has also been travelling to find stories.

By now you must be so envious of our lives. And with good reason.

Except, to tell these stories often involves some measure of suffering or struggling. One thinks about a soul-enriching experience and realises that you actually don’t want to spoil it by telling the story. It is as if one's words don't do it justice. No matter how one strings them together, they sound pretentious. One doesn’t want it to be brochure copy, because all the wonderful words and descriptions are already in brochures. We want our words to reflect the sense of wonder, create that comfortable sense of the familiar that brings back memories. We try to put ourselves in the shoes of someone who has never been there, never had a similar experience to compare it, or has been there but did not look.

We hope that all the stories we tell in this edition will bring new eyes to you.

Rièth van Schalkwyk

TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2018

5

CONTENTS SPRING 2018 54

10 BUSH TELEGRAPH The new and exciting 14 FUELLED BY PASSION RMB Namibia Ride for Rhinos 18 ETENDEKA Finding the authenticity of nature 24 SALVADORA and the strange oasis 32 CAMPING Q&A with Emsie Erastus 34 CHASING THE RAIN to the Nyae Nyae Pans 38 THE WHITE LADY of the Brandberg 44 BUSH COOKING with Antoinette De Chavonnes Vrugt

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46 IN THE VALLEY OF GOLDEN LIGHT Hoanib Valley Camp 50 GROOTBERG LODGE and the people of the ≠Khoadi-//Hôas Conservancy

CONTENTS

34 38 52 FISH RIVER CANYON LANDSCAPE A unique conglomerate of species and geology

54 FISH RIVER CANYON hike for the first-timer 62 BIRDING for beginners 70 DISCOVER ETOSHA - Luxury travel done right 80 THIS IS MY NAMIBIA with Conrad Brain

14 62 TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2018

7

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SLOWTOWN

COFFEE ROASTERS

BUSH TELEGRAPH Namibia's favourite coffee depot has opened a new branch in Sam Nujoma Avenue, Walvis Bay. The friendly service makes you feel right at home. Aside from the assorted coffees, it is near impossible to leave without a slice of cake. Try the carrot cake with peanut butter filling!

WE

IN NAMIBIA DIRECTLY ONLINE

Stop poring over the multitude of activities in bright brochures and start booking. Activities Namibia is your new best friend when it comes to booking the fun stuff. It will help you to plan ahead, book all your activities on one website and avoid disappointment in peak season. Both local and international visitors are already making use of the recently launched website, brainchild of Natasha van der Walt, Oliver Ahrens and Mare-Lize Peddie.

Visit www.activitiesnamibia.com to get started!

Shipwreck Lodge

ON THE MOST TREACHEROUS SHORES The Travel News Namibia team recently went on a rock climbing adventure!

We're hooked.

And we might need a belayer to get us back down to earth.

Want to try it? www.mcnam.org

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BOOK ALL YOUR ACTIVITIES

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Journeys Namibia Management Group in Tourism celebrated their new accommodation establishment, Shipwreck Lodge at an industry launch event in Windhoek. The lodge, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, is situated inside Namibia's famed Skeleton Coast National Park, was developed as a jointventure project by Trip Travel, Journeys Namibia and Natural Selection. and will benefit the communities of the Purros and Sesfontein Conservancies of the north-western Kunene Region. Congratulations and good luck for this wonderful new adventure from all of us at Travel News Namibia!

See information on Facebook or visit: www.shipwrecklodge.com.na

MOTORCYCLING

FLORA ENTHUSIASTS

READER’S CHOICE FOR

THROUGH THE WORLD’S LARGEST CONSERVATION AREA WITH NWR

Namibia Publishing House has recently updated the well-known and popular Le Roux and Müller’s Field Guide to the Trees & Shrubs of Namibia. Seven species that are new to science have been added to the second edition. With over 1000 photographs and colour-coded reader-friendly features, it is the perfect gift for both amateur and professional botanists.

Available at Namibia Scientific Society and Book Den in Windhoek.

Sometimes it becomes a necessity to leave routine behind and depart on a nine-day motorcycle tour through the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area. This is what the Tshwane Legend Bikers Club, amongst others, decided to do. The thrilling itinerary included Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe on motorcycles with highlights such as a boat ride on the Chobe River (the border between Botswana and Namibia), and a visit to one of the Seven Wonders of the World – the Victoria Falls (Zambia).

NWR aims to continue creating packages that will be able to bring together the KAZA countries, their culture and diversity.

PRIZE WINNERS AT THE

HAN GALA 2018

Yet another one for the books! The glamorous gala of the Hospitality Association of Namibia took place at the Swakopmund Hotel in June. Hosted together with the HAN Tourism Trade Forum as well as the HAN Congress, the gala event honours its members by awarding them for practising sustainable tourism in the country.

Congratulations to the Eco Award Winners: Wolwedans (first place) as well as three of NWR’s resorts, namely Sossus Dune Lodge, Naukluft Camp and Duwisib Castle, among others. This year’s Tourism Personality Award went to our favourite couple, the founders of the N/a’an ku sê Foundation, Marlice and Rudi van Vuuren.

GIRL POWER at Serra Cafema Carina Losper, Wilderness Area Manager for Serra Cafema & Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp and Selma Pendjameni, Assistant Manager at Serra Cafema have big smiles despite the challenges of a new lodge under construction in one of the most remote areas of Namibia. In April this year, 1 604 cubic meter per second rushed down the Ruacana Falls, down the Kunene River, flooding most lodges downstream. The flood set back reconstruction of the lodge at Serra Cafema with months, but when Rièth van Schalkwyk checked in, it was service as usual.

Indications are that the new lodge, reconstructed under the same big Ana trees on the river bank, will be ready in September.

winter_photography_art

FRESH FROM THE PRINTER: Birds of Nambwa by Pompie Burger, in association with African Monarch Lodges.

Get your hands on a colourful copy at Book Den in Windhoek, Die Muschel in Swakopmund or call Bonn Nortjé at +264 61 383 450 for more information.

READER’S INSTA-CORNER TAG US ON INSTAGRAM @TRAVEL_NEWS_NAMIBIA, USE THE HASHTAG #THISISMYNAMIBIA AND BE FEATURED IN AN UPCOMING ISSUE!

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With its unparalleled the Air 350ER hasfor theyour capability to fly between Windhoek in Namibia to the DRC a refreshment centre. The range, King Air is King the ideal aircraft next African flying safari, corporate excursion or mine or to Nairobi in Kenya.

With its more than 40 year-heritage, the rugged design of the aircraft, and its robust systems visit. With its unparalleled range, the King Air 350ER has the capability to fly between Windhoek in Namibia to the DRC make the 350inone of the most and predictable aircraft in the operation or to Nairobi Kenya.

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WORK: CONFERENCE FACILITIES New conference facilities were launched in June 2018, promising to be a game changer in the business sphere. The facilities consist of two conference rooms of which the larger one can be sub-divided into two separate venues, each with its own dedicated welcome area and entrance.

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TRAVEL NEWS NAMIBIA SPRING 2018

13

FUELLED BY

PASSION

– The RMB Namibia Ride for Rhinos

Gerhard Thirion

What does it take to save the rhino? The list is long - tracking teams, vehicles, food, uniforms, binoculars, support staff and supporters, among many other things. But the most essential element needed to save the rhino is passion. Kimber Brain grew up surrounded by people who are passionate about the environment and wildlife. After completing his first year at Brown University in the USA he came back to Namibia for summer holidays, and joined the RMB Namibia Ride for Rhinos crew as a volunteer. This is his story.

P

assion was on full display and found in many guises during the 2018 RMB Namibia Ride for Rhinos, an annual event initiated by Venture Media in support of Save the Rhino Trust Namibia’s on-going efforts to monitor and protect the endangered desert-adapted black rhino, Bicornis bicornis.

Namibia has rallied and will continue to rally. From the wilds of Damaraland to the gleaming high-rises of Independence Avenue in Windhoek there is a sense that the nation is pulling together to fight for the survival of one of our country’s, of one of the continent’s, most iconic species.

Save the Rhino Trust Namibia is Namibia’s pre-eminent rhino conservation organisation that operates in the extreme northwest of the country. Their operations are sustained by a board of trustees, a couple of full-time staff members based in Swakopmund, a headman-cum-CEO in the shape of Simson Uri-Khob from Khorixas and a dedicated team of trackers. While none of these parts can function efficiently in isolation, it’s the trackers, armed with little more than an infallible sense of duty, who have made and continue to make SRT what it is today. They are tasked with monitoring over 25 000 km2 of some of the most inhospitable land on earth, where temperatures soar far above 40° C, almost entirely on foot.

Starting at Wêreldsend and culminating at Wilderness Safaris’ Damaraland Camp, twenty cyclists covered over 100 km of rugged, inhospitable landscape in north-western Namibia.

With the support of a dedicated ground crew, the cyclists are given direct insight into the difficulties of protecting rhinos in this vast area, with no fences, no national park status and no real control over who moves in and out.

It is this understanding that breeds passion, and it was strengthened by the unique perspective brought to the ride by a few special guests.

On the second evening of the pedal-powered trek across Damaraland, Tommy Hall, head of SRT’s intelligence unit, joined the riders around the evening campfire. Well-grounded since his early years with the Ministry of Environment and Tourism and fondly known locally as the “White Damara” for his language skills, Tommy is also a raconteur of note. His stories were riveting, and his work and that of his team is making a striking difference in the protection of rhinos. The riders pulled their chairs closer to the fire to listen, and then one by one, they peeled away, dragging their weary bodies off to bed. Tommy remained, his giant frame silhouetted by the last dying embers of the campfire. He would continue to tell his story until there was no one left to hear it.

Gerhard Thirion

Gerhard Thirion

When you are as physically isolated as SRT’s trackers are, it is wonderful to know you are not alone. For the past four years

RMB Namibia Ride for Rhinos has brought this sense home by cycling many of the same tracks walked by SRT’s trackers since the organisation was founded in 1982.

Our journeys change lives

35 YEARS OF

Travelling with Purpose ‌ Since 1983, our Purpose has remained the same. We are proud pioneers of sustainable and authentic ecotourism in Africa, creating life-changing journeys and inspiring positive action.

Our story is one of conservation and hope; celebrating culture, communities and extraordinary wildlife encounters.

Our story is about Africa.

Our story is about Purpose.

www.wilderness-safaris.com

Only once the last hardy soul had drifted off to their tent, Tommy leaped up and into his Land Cruiser to begin a 3-hour drive back to home in Palmwag. His is an unrelenting job. But this is his passion, and around the fire that night he inspired others.

As the cyclists emerged from their tents the following morning, several said they had lain awake in their sleeping bags, listening to Tommy’s stories, and at midnight they were sorry to hear Tommy say he had to leave.

Tommy was not the only new face on this year’s ride. With support from Piper & Heath, a San Diego-based travel firm founded by Namibian-born Chris Liebenberg, the Ride welcomed Matt Meyer. Durban-born Matt is a professional safari guide and no stranger to the bush or to the bike saddle.

Matt’s journey to Wêreldsend began some 15 000 km away in the American state of Oregon. His bold plan was to cycle approximately 3 200 km down the west coast of America, but he would not be doing it alone. Accompanying him for every painstaking pedal of his journey would be Luna, a life-size fiberglass replica of a black rhino. She weighed 200 kg. Matt’s ride would not be easy. Yet, with calves of steel and spurred on by a succession of super-hero movie soundtracks, Matt finished the ride all along the west coast in only 63 days. The donations received throughout his ride were sent to three rhino conservation organisations across Africa, including SRT.

Kalla Laubscher

Matt shared his story with guests at RMB Namibia in Windhoek and again, around the fire, during the Ride for Rhinos. He described himself as little more than a dude, on

his bike, doing something that he is passionate about, and in his simple and modest explanation a revelation was laid bare.

At times it is easy to think that we are in this fight alone, that the battle to save the future of the Namibian rhino begins and ends at the rocky border of Damaraland. As I have learnt, and as every single cyclist on the RMB Namibia Ride for Rhinos has learnt, that is simply not the case.

If Namibia is to feel the full brunt of organised rhino poaching syndicates, then we must know that for every one of them there is a Matt. Someone willing to go above and beyond what is asked of them to try and make a positive difference. Someone who is willing to give: not just money, but time, blood and sweat to protect the rhino. From Windhoek to Los Angeles there are people who understand the magnitude of the struggle we are facing and will do everything in their power to help turn the tide in our favour.

And should we find that some desperate Namibians turn to poaching we must not forget that for every one of them, there is a tracker out in the field risking his life to protect a species that means the world to them.

As Tommy drove away into the thick darkness of the Damaraland night and the last of the embers flicked out I knew that the fire burning in all our hearts to save the rhino would not be extinguished anytime soon. The poachers may be fuelled by greed, but us, no, we are fuelled by passion. TNN Check out photos from this year's event on www.facebook.com/rmbrideforrhinos.

Etendeka

FIND THE AUTHENTICITY OF NATURE AT

Namibia is a country for the wide angle. The far horizons. The distant, sparse beauty of line, shadows and colours in an everchanging landscape. Rièth van Schalkwyk travelled northwest to Damaraland, to the 400 km2 Etendeka Concession in the Omatendeka and Anabeb Communal Conservancies to walk with Dennis Liebenberg through the untouched landscape on the foothills of the Grootberg Mountain massif.

W

e like to say that in this desert land the journey is the destination. One should never take one’s eyes off the view regardless of which direction you face. And always look down and close-up. Never expect to arrive at your destination in order to see and experience the magic. At the end of the road there will always be comfort from heat and thirst, but getting there is actually where the magic lies.

At the end of each day a sunset will mark that magic regardless of where your journey ends.

We call this time the magic hour. Time to process the impressions and experiences of the journey. To eventually put away the camera and let the mind travel back in time. Watch the stars emerge one by one until it is completely dark and an enchanting celestial wonderland covers the expanse of the sky.

The 2018 rainy season started late. Almost too late for some regions, but perfectly timed for where we are heading. During a drought the earth in this part of Damaraland is covered in ochre-coloured stones, with the pale grey-green of thousands of milk bushes dotting the landscape. But after exceptional earlier rains the stones have disappeared under the cover of soft yellow-gold grass in some valleys and plains, adding another hue to the soft pastels of blue, purple and, later in the afternoon, pink mountains.

Our journey starts with a difference. The sense of adventure begins when we park in a car park at Palmwag, 25 km from our destination. We put on hats and scarves and get on the back seat of a game viewer, which in itself spells anticipation. We are wearing hiking boots, are handed a water bottle covered in canvas with a shoulder strap and get our cameras and binoculars out.

It is quite an unusual experience for seasoned explorers like us not to be in total control of the itinerary and the route. All we know this time is that we are going to walk for three days from one hiking cabin to the next along a circular route, past different geological formations and vegetation zones, cross dry riverbeds and hopefully streams fed by permanent fountains.

It is winter, but sunny as expected. A week earlier we were in this same area, hosting the RMB Namibia Ride for Rhinos. Today I hope that it will be easier to navigate an animal path on foot rather than on a mountain bike. Around us in all directions are the flat tops of the

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Grootberg Mountain massif. Apart from the fact that the sun comes up in the east and sets a little north of west, I am totally lost. All the mountains around me look like Grootberg. Same height, same shape, same colour.

Dennis knows the land like the palm of his hand and must have explained and named every tree and plant, rock formation and insect, animal track and bird thousands of times. And still finds pleasure in re-living the experience with us. With a walking stick in hand, chosen from the well-worn selection accumulated over many years, we set off. It has been years since I have climbed the Brandberg or braved the Fish River Canyon. I have to trust that my “level of relative fitness” will be enough for hiking five hours a day. After the first 100 metres I realise that at the pace we are covering ground, it may take ten hours to reach the hiking cabin, but with little physical exhaustion on our side. We just go too slowly. All our questions, trying to identify birds and stopping for photographs of the smallest flowers and the most incredible stones and textures would have driven seasoned hikers crazy. Fortunately Dennis is a patient educator and not at all fazed by explaining or naming the same thing over and over.

At this point in the story I realise that it is impossible to describe how magical the experience at Etendeka is. There is something exceptional about being unhurried, and literally close to the earth; to be able to bend down and photograph the minutest little flower. How on earth do they survive here?

To look up and see the eagles soar or look down a gorge and see their backs. Hear a baboon somewhere on the cliffs, or the scurrying of the mountain zebra, blending so well that you notice them with your ears first. So quiet that it is possible to identify a bird sound and hear it again, and again

until you remember which bird it belongs to. Walking up and then around a mountain. The spectacular views never cease.

Looking up from the lines and textures of a stone or a flower or the bark of a tree, something else comes in focus or the sun lights up a tree in a cliff. One forgets to hike.

At this pace we will be lucky to be at the hiking cabins in time to watch the sunset.

After many travels through this part of the country I would never have believed that one could spend days exploring so much – on foot. One expects to see birds, or the usual antelope, even elephant or a black rhino, because you know they are there. But to get so close to hundred-year-old mopane or leadwood trees, gnarled and twisted by time and drought, walk down mountains, over a plateau sprinkled with thousands of crystals, through rocky valleys and stare down cliffs in awe, is truly wonderful. To notice a cloud of dust and then, when the dust settles, realise that elephants are dusting themselves. They come to drink from a natural spring. Probably following ancient paths to this oasis.

To enjoy all this in the same place, undisturbed by modern man, where hunter-gatherers survived hundreds of years before, is a truly humbling experience and undeserved privilege.

Except we don’t have to provide for our dinner with bow and arrow.

It is all there. Campfire burning. Ice-cold beer. Chairs arranged in a semi-circle to face the spectacular view of the sunset over a gorge. Sizzling food on the coals. Warm water in the bucket showers under the stars. Comfortable bedroll on a stretcher

Yellow mouse-whiskers (Cleome angustifolia)

in the most brilliantly designed sky tent on stilts, hanging against a cliff – our suite for the night, without a roof to block the stars. And the scraping noise under the tent in the middle of the night? A leopard? A porcupine? A mouse? I did recognise the sound of the owl. And saw the morning star when the hushed noises from the camp kitchen confirmed that it was time to get up. Tea was ready.

28 YEARS OF DEDICATION When Dennis Liebenberg took over the Etendeka Concession 28 years ago, the now celebrated Communal Conservancy programme CBNRM had not been in operation and there was little experience of joint ventures, both on the side of the concession holder and the community. Dennis created a tourism business that would benefit the community, provide jobs and training, but most precious of all, protect the land and the delicate balance which is necessary to save animal and plant species.

A few years ago the Etendeka Mountain Camp received a face-lift when artist/builder Colin Knott used his signature mix of stone, wood, wire and metal to create a new look and upgraded some parts of the structures, without losing the unpretentious authentic character of a traditional safari camp.

Colin also designed and built the new hiking sky tents.

With these new facilities, twice the number of guests can enjoy Etendeka without putting any more strain on the environment or affect the enjoyment of visitors who expect to be lost in the wilderness for a few days. It will provide extra income for the two Conservancies who made the investment. TNN

ABOVE Identifying rocks and every small flower added heaps of excitement to our expedition.

Situated at the very edge of a gorge, the bush camp sky tents offer the most spectacular sunset views. At night, the roof is taken down as to not impede your view of the starry night sky above.

DID YOU KNOW? Just when you think you know at least the obvious trees and shrubs in your country as a layman who loves common names, a surprise of note comes your way. I would have bet my last penny that the tree pictured on the right is a Commiphora glausescens (Bloublaarkanniedood/Blue-leaved corkwood), one of at least 65 species I thought I could identify. One day on foot in the Etendeka Mountains, and I was proven wrong. It is in fact a Euphorbia guerichiana. Just for interest's sake, and for readers who are also just starting to identify trees and trying to remember scientific names, the picture on the left is the Euphorbia virosa. See the confusion?

Shouldn't they at least look slightly alike?

The moral of the story is to never trust your eyes. In this case break a twig and make sure what comes out is sticky milky latex.

Then it is the Euphorbia. If not, still don’t trust your eyes. And never volunteer one of the names you know.

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It all started in 1892 when Windhoek was a rather new speck on the map. Fast-forward 126 years in a world where change is the only constant and Windhoek is now the bustling capital of the country. One thing has remained among the change: Wecke & Voigts is still rooted in the heart of the city and keeps its promise of bringing specially-selected quality products to local and international homes.

With its Namibian heritage and as the oldest department store in the country, Wecke & Voigts proudly supports the domestic market and also handpicks products internationally.

Now on Independence Avenue and at Grove Mall.

Tel: 061 377 000 sonja@weckevoigts.com.na www.facebook.com/WeckeVoigtsRetail

#getnatural COMPETITION

Win big with Naturally Namibia in their Get Natural photography competition. Enter an original Namibian photograph or video clip that falls in one of the following categories: #getwild, #getbeautiful, #getcreative, or #getcultural, and stand a chance to win an amazing prize from the Naturally Namibia collection. The first prize is a 7-day complimentary stay for two people sharing at four Naturally Namibia destinations and the runner-up prize is a 5-day complimentary stay for two people sharing at three Naturally Namibia properties.

HOW TO ENTER: STEP 1: Pick a category…or 4 STEP 2: Take a Naturally Namibian photo that fits the category

#getwild

#getcreative

STEP 3: Post your photo to social media: Facebook, Twitter, Instagram STEP 4: Tag your pic with: Naturally Namibia on Facebook @naturally_namib on Twitter @naturallynamibia on Instagram #getnatural #naturallynamibia #get[category] Each week from August to October one finalist will be chosen. The final winners will be selected out of these finalists by a panel of judges from Travel News Namibia and the Naturally Namibia family.

#getbeautiful

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The more NATURAL your entry, the better your chances… so get creative! www.naturallynamibia.com Visit the website for T’s & C’s: www.travelnewsnamibia.com/news/get-natural-competition/

SALVADORA and the Strange Oasis Text and Photographs Oliver Halsey

The vegetated Kuiseb River slices through the central Namib

We drove northwards, surrounded by a vastness of water and sand, the Atlantic Ocean to the west, the Namib Desert to the east. After a couple of hours, rocky outcrops, previously hazy in the distance, came into focus; the Brandberg and surrounding mountains rose sharply from the plains. The sky was filled with low-lying clouds and a cold wind blew fog inland from the ocean. The sun had begun its descent several hours prior and the stark, blackened mountains stood ominously in the dimming light.

Eventually, we turned off the main coastal road and trundled down a dusty, corrugated track heading towards the mountains. The track veered around the dry ephemeral Messum River channel, bordered by precipitous rock shelves sculpted by millennia of erosion. The track, enclosed by the walls of crumbling rock, eventually opened out into a desolate expanse. We had entered the caldera of the Messum Crater, an extinct supervolcano some 18 kilometres in diameter, last active 130 million years ago. Dotted around the surrounding desolation stood thousands of Welwitschia plants, barely visible in the dim evening light. The ringing sound of silence filled my ears. This foreboding landscape exuded a primeval air that instilled pure wonderment.

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n early 2017, I had the privilege of camping in the Messum Crater with several knowledgeable and inspirational scientists. The Messum Crater, a harsh environment, unforgiving and remote, is one of the less visited, yet accessible parts of the Namib Desert. Its eponym is Captain William Messum, who travelled across this land from the ocean at Cape Cross around 1850.

The Messum Crater has numerous archaeological sites, rock paintings and many Welwitschia plants, living fossils that date back some 200 million years. Being here was the closest I have come to travelling through time to some distant prehistoric era. Despite my veneration for this bygone

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landscape, the result of this excursion shifted my focus from the past to a novel observation.

At our campsite, on the second morning of our stay in the Messum Crater, J Scott Turner, a professor of biology from the State University of New York College of Environmental Science and Forestry (USA), pointed out to us some small mounds of soil, several centimetres high. “These are soil dumps created by termites�, explained Professor Turner. Harvester termites construct vast subterranean nests with tunnels that lead to the surface; excess soil gets dumped above ground resulting in these miniature mounds. However, these soil dumps were damp. The termites had dug deep enough for their nest to

The Kuiseb, much like the Messum River and most other Namibian rivers, is ephemeral and dry most of the time. The Kuiseb rises in the Khomas Hochland region, near the capital of Windhoek, and runs in a south-westerly direction into the heart of the Namib Desert. Gobabeb rarely sees water flooding this dusty channel. The river only flows this far when enough rain falls hundreds of kilometres away in the catchment area in the interior. In the sun-soaked central Namib, the Kuiseb can go from flooded to dry in a matter of days, with much of the water seeping into the sandy surface and resting in an aquifer.

This is why we see mass vegetation along the dry Kuiseb River channel in the middle of the desert; roots of trees extend deep under the surface to extract the water.

There is a plant found along parts of the Kuiseb that intrigued me from the start. I remember asking if it was an invasive species (a plant not native to the area, but introduced, which can have a detrimental effect on native wildlife and/or cause economic damage). It wound around the trees, seemingly choking them with its grasp of intertwining branches and bushy leaves. Its green leaves were relatively large, unusual for desert-adapted plants, which mostly have small leaves or none at all. For plants with roots capable of reaching the underground water, however, this was an oasis.

The plant in question was indeed native to this area but it is also found in many other African countries, parts of Saudi Arabia and India. It was Salvadora persica, which goes by many common names such as miswak and arak in Arabia, or the mustard bush or toothbrush tree because its twigs can be used as a natural toothbrush. Much research has been conducted on the chemical properties of the plant, with results showing that it really is beneficial for oral health and dental hygiene. The dental benefits of the plant have been known for generations and are acclaimed in a poem written

by Suwayd ibn Abi Kahil al-Yashkuri in the 17th century A.D.

The Kuiseb River flows at night in the central Namib Desert

Free born is she: she shows when she smiles a row of white teeth regularly spaced

reach underground water. This may seem surprising in a place as arid as the Namib, but we were in the vicinity of the Messum River which, despite being dry at the time, indicated the presence of underground water from past flow.

As we continued into the Messum Crater and beyond, I put Professor Turner’s observation to the back of my mind. It would soon surface again, however.

At the time of our Messum Crater visit, I was based at the Gobabeb Research and Training Centre, a few hundred kilometres south of Messum in the Namib-Naukluft Park. Gobabeb is located on the Kuiseb River in the central Namib Desert.

Like the rays of the sun breaking forth from midst of a cloud

She has polished it with a green sappy twig of arak

Sweet of savour, so that it is perfectly lustrous

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An uncharacteristic desert image: Masses of Salvadora bushes grow around trees in the Kuiseb Walking down the sandy Kuiseb riverbed I would often hear rustling coming from within the dense, tangled Salvadora bushes. I wondered what creatures could be lurking there. African wildcats and brown hyenas have been spotted along the Kuiseb River in the central Namib and may shelter in the larger bushes; jackals and foxes probably use Salvadora for shelter during the day too. Snakes, geckos, spiders and scorpions almost certainly reside within, not to mention countless insects. Accidently I even frightened off a small antelope one day, which was in a large Salvadora bush seeking respite from the sun. The invisible water was supporting plant life in one of the driest places on earth, which in turn sustained countless creatures.

I began to think of Salvadora from the perspective of a small animal, as a sprawling biological metropolis literally buzzing with life.

So how does all of this relate to the damp termite soil dumps in the Messum Crater?

Salvadora persica engulfs a camel thorn tree

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I decided to develop this idea of a ‘biological metropolis’, mixing art with science into a short film. As I spent more time in and around Salvadora bushes I began to notice that the harvester termite, Hodotermes mossambicus, was more likely to be seen foraging detritus from Salvadora

A termite worker of the species Hodotermes mossambicus A dune ant, Camponotus detritus, drinks from a damp termite soil dump than anywhere else in the vicinity. Harvester termites, as their name suggests, harvest organic matter, in this case small pieces of Salvadora twigs and leaves. The workers drag the twigs, which are often far larger than their own bodies, back to their nests using their powerful jaws and then store the plant matter underground for use as food. Colonies can be gigantic. I once observed thousands foraging under a Salvadora bush: the sheer quantity of the tiny insects produced an audible rustling.

One day in the Kuiseb I noticed the same damp termite soil dumps that Professor Turner had pointed out in the Messum Crater. This time hundreds of tiny flies, barely visible, were crowded on top of the damp mounds.

They were drinking. I began to notice this frequently as I spent more time around Salvadora, not just with flies but other insects too. Dune ants, Camponotus detritus, and the Zophosis moralesi beetles would become transfixed on the damp soil, thirstily guzzling all available moisture. The termites were providing a way for other insects to access the otherwise unobtainable underground water. As long as the termites continued to expand their underground nests, fresh damp soil would often appear above ground and other insects would take advantage of this. These were termiteconstructed oases.

Thanks to the digging termites, other insects in the central Namib quench their thirst with rain that fell hundreds of kilometres away. Combinations of seemingly unrelated events and organisms have come together to allow access to moisture in a hyper-arid desert environment. My observation of this interaction, not previously documented in the Namib, stemmed from the seemingly trivial patches of damp soil in the Messum Crater. Considering how numerous harvester termites are along the Kuiseb River, this

Termite soil dumps at the edge of the Kuiseb River

poses the question of how valuable these termite-constructed oases are for insects, and it confirms that desert organisms are willing to exploit any convenient source of moisture. No matter how seemingly inconsequential, the scientific value of observation is crucial to advancing our knowledge and understanding of the world around us.

If we are to put ourselves into the figurative shoes of the wandering beetle, these mounds of damp soil are no longer unremarkable.

They are instead a welcome, refreshing respite. What initially may appear insignificant is often revealed to be astonishing upon closer inspection. Wonders are often found within the subtleties of life. All we have to do is look. TNN

This interaction and behaviour can be found, described and filmed for the first time, in the short film Salvadora, available to watch online for free at the writer’s website: www.oliverhalsey.net/salvadora

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Welcome to the Kwando River in Namibia’s famous Zambezi Region Elephants on your doorstep. Packs of wild dogs roam the land. This is what awaits in the heart of KAZA, the world’s largest conservation area.

Nambwa Tented Lodge and Kazile Island Lodge offer exclusive accommodation in Bwabwata National Park. Indulge in the beauty of a stunning sundowner on the banks of the Kwando River. Float beside hippos on an early morning boat excursion. Explore the wilderness on a game drive and get to know the community and their enigmatic culture on an excursion to a local village. The ultimate luxury safari experience awaits!

reservations@africanmonarchlodges.com

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+264 81 125 2122/+264 61 400 510

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www.africanmonarchlodges.com

20 YEARS OF CELEBRATING

A

pril 24th, 2018 marked 20 years since well-known hotelier Ulf Grünewald decided to nest his hotel on a secluded rocky bay in the town that is entirely built on rock. Inaugurated in 1998 by then President Sam Nujoma, the Lüderitz Nest Hotel has a reputation for delivering unparalleled service as a fourstar establishment and being the leading tourism industry employer in town.

Lüderitz Nest Hotel offers more than just the essential indoor comforts. Free Wi-Fi and a sauna are some of the features for guests to enjoy. They can relish a meal at the restaurant or a drink at the bar with unsurpassed views of the Atlantic Ocean, or go for a stroll on the hotel’s rather private beach area with a small jetty that provides great photo opportunities during golden hour. The hotel is centrally located and only 500 metres from the historic Goerke Haus.

The hotel takes guest feedback very seriously and hence the winds of change have brought about major renovations and expansion. But the protection of the environment remains at the top of the hotel’s priority list.

Regardless of its location in a small, developing town, its efforts are no throwing straws against the wind: Lüderitz Nest Hotel became the first hotel in Namibia to replace plastic straws with recyclable glass straws, setting a trend among tourism establishments in the country.

When Portuguese explorer Bartolomeu

LÜDERITZ - Lüderitz Nest Hotel

Dias first planted his cross on the windswept shore in 1488, he probably never would have imagined the colourful, quirky coastal town that would emerge and the interesting twist its historic path would take. One of the rocky turns led to the discovery of diamonds about 10 km inland from Lüderitz in what is now Namibia’s famous ghost town, Kolmanskop. The place was named after transport driver Johnny Coleman, who abandoned his wagon there during a fierce sandstorm.

When asking Ulf if there is any truth behind the rumours and legends of the windy town, he replies that the wind is in fact one of Lüderitz’s most sustainable treasures. It creates ideal fishing conditions and some endangered birds, such as the African Penguin, flourish in these surroundings. Visitors come here to savour the delectable seafood and experience the natural world that would not have been the same without certain weather elements. His suggestion is to spend more time in the area to experience all of its different facets.

On the topic of treasures, it’s the staff that makes the hotel so exclusive.

Four staff members, who are still in the hotel’s service after 20 years, hatched their careers at the Lüderitz Nest Hotel and turned into full-fledged birds. Food and Beverage Manager Anne Gumbo

started out as a waitress, Maintenance Supervisor Petrus Adelino got his first job at the hotel as a handyman, Cecilia Ngwedha worked her way up in the housekeeping department to become Supervisor, and Tylves Likondya earned his position as the Head Barman. To thank them for their love and dedication, they were all treated to an evening of wining and dining, after which they spent their first night ever in the hotel as guests with their partners.

+264 63 204 000 reservations@nesthotel.com www.nesthotel.com

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THE CAMPING FILES Photographs Emsie Erastus

Camping isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, but for those who enjoy it, it can develop into somewhat of a passion. This issue’s Camping Files profile features Emsie Erastus, a passionate young Namibian who fell for camping - hard. Even before discovering the joy of camping, Emsie had a unique appreciation for her country’s beauty. She is a second-generation journalist who makes her money as an online producer and is also involved in the local film industry. She has an eagerness to explore her homeland and spends weekends away whenever she can. Read more about how her love for the great outdoors started and about her latest camping shenanigans.

F

rom a young age, I knew I loved the outdoors. Driving out of Windhoek, I couldn’t help but be fascinated by the vast open spaces of Namibia. The problem was, my family didn’t enjoy camping and still doesn’t, and for me, camping was just those school trips we all had. At university I went on a camping trip for the first time.

Setting up my tent was like an initiation into a new world. That’s when the camping bug officially bit me.

As a fresh graduate joining the working class, I used my paychecks for camping trips, not shopping sprees. It was also at this time that I met cool people who had the same interest as me in exploring Namibia’s countryside, and we formed a little “camping clique”.

I believe life is too short to go to the same place more than once, but I’ve been to Bagatelle in the Kalahari twice. It has beautiful red/orange dunes and lots of activities. However, I think what made me love this place from the start was the great reception we received. The human interaction combined with the experience is what made it so special.

Being a Namibian means that I’m blessed with so many beautiful campsite options in my own country. When I plan a camping trip, the first thing I do is to book the accommodation. Namibia is in demand and space is often quite limited. It also helps to keep all your friends committed to a trip if they’ve paid their deposit.

My camping trips usually last only two or three days, but this year I did something completely different. I went to the Orange River for a five-day rafting trip, where we camped along the banks of the river and slept under the stars. I remember the second night when I was in my sleeping bag, looking up at the billions of stars above me and thinking: this beats all my previous trips.

Rafting the Orange River was magical. Surreal rock formations surrounded us, and there’s this unexplained calmness as you paddle along. Then, the sun sets, and everything is a stunning vivid orange. I packed most of my stuff in watertight zip-lock bags so that they couldn’t get wet. Our tour operator, Amanzi Trails, provided three meals as part of the rafting package and this made it so much less of a stress for us. TNN

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...looking up at the billions of stars above me and thinking: this beats all my previous trips.

Cymot SA (HO in Cape Town) started trading in Windhoek

19 48 70 YEARS OF SUCCESSFUL TRADING IN NAMIBIA From humble beginnings as a battery depot in Windhoek, CYMOT has grown to a household name, operating throughout Namibia, supplying quality-guaranteed products and after-sales service. It continues to be a wholly Namibian-owned company, with a core strength that remains its 500 employees. Even during tough economic times, CYMOT continues to invest in the country, adding many new branches and investing in new platforms.

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Tommies Midas opens in Oshakati in joint venture

CYMOT has a long history and heritage, and yet we strive continually to remain the leaders in our market.

We've embraced the latest e-commerce solutions, recently launching our new website that offers our customers the opportunity to browse and shop, anytime, anywhere via their smart device. Our partnership with Gondwana will further showcase the beauty of our country, Namibia.

Claus Theissen joined as Assistant Manager

19 94 GREENSPORT branch opens in Cape Town

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20 02 Axel Theissen takes over the reigns

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CYMOT will continue to deliver service excellence to our customers, through exceptional service and platforms.

www.cymot.com

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CYMOT becomes 100% independent and joins MIDAS/NAPA

Central Warehouse opens in Northern Industrial Area Windhoek

Greensport 4x4 Fitment Centre opens at Central Warehouse

From a corporate social investment perspective, CYMOT continuously supports initiatives involved in education, sports and nature conservation, such as NaDEET, Save the Rhino Trust (SRT) and the Africat Education Centre.

Tel: (+264 61) 295 6000 info@cymot.com

First official branch opens in StĂźbel Street

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Revamped Windhoek City Centre Branch opens in Tal Street

20 06

Completed BEE deal with STIMULUS

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20 17 Extended CYMOT Oshakati branch opens

2018

14 branches, Âą 500 employees

2018

Chasing the

Text and Photographs Nina van Schalkwyk

The Nyae Nyae Pans in the east of Namibia were filled up after good autumn rains.

Stories abounded of lions that roamed the open grasslands. Of a massive flock of flamingos that had descended on the water.

One word: paradise. So, what is it with Namibians and water? Perhaps it has to do with growing up in a desert country: when you hear about heavy rainfall somewhere in the country, about a pan that's popped up out of dormancy, you have to go and see it with your own eyes. That is what happened. It was the Easter weekend and off we went, to chase the rain and see it all for ourselves.

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Rain

to the Nyae Nyae Pans

DANCING IN THE RAIN AT THE NYAE NYAE PANS We were standing at the pan, watching row upon row of flamingos turn the water pink.

We travelled in six cars, nine adults and one baby. All of us family and friends. Between the whole lot of us only one Easter egg and six hot cross buns. Our leader: Chrisna Greeff, camperextraordinaire (previously featured in the Camping Files in TNN Autumn 2018). We had all been convinced to set off on this trip to the Nyae Nyae Conservancy by reports of lions at the pan just a few weeks earlier when a group of travellers spotted them catching springbok in the area. We hoped against hope that they were still there. But the lions were long gone by the time we arrived. Not altogether a bad thing, considering our group had a tendency to get out of the vehicles often. Despite the absence of lions the lush environment we found was reward enough for our journey. It is a luxury to see Namibia green. We don’t get that often. After a generous rainy season it is as if every person you meet is just a little bit more cheerful about life in general. The east of Namibia was drenched, its red soil a muddy bog that had us slipping and sliding across 4x4 tracks. And in the end, enjoying a long weekend in the rain.

THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED HAS BETTER VIEWS Bumping over the rough terrain the car rocked me to sleep.

I can't help it, my eyes involuntarily close whenever I’m in a moving car for too long. Which is a pity, of course, since the road we took to the Nyae Nyae Pans was quite off the beaten track and picturesque. Experiencing the Namibia adventure in the rainy season, all muddy and wet and rough, is a pleasure.

But that was on the second day. In the downpour of the first day all I could see through the rain-splattered windshield were the brake lights of the car in front of us. We were barely out of Windhoek before the rain clouds caught up with us. We got thoroughly soaked. Where we had planned to make quite a bit of headway on our journey, we ended up not getting very far at all. For our first night we dropped in on some long-lost acquaintance's farm and set up camp in the barn. Who would have thought of bringing a raincoat? Not me, that’s for sure.

Rookie error, I was told. We cheerfully chatted the night away, falling asleep to the sound of rain drumming on the corrugated iron roof above us, small leaks drip, drip, dripping onto the concrete floor, missing our heads by a metre or less. And the next morning, wading through tall grass with dew still clinging to the blades, watching a lazy sun rise through thick mist.

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TSUMKWE - THE HOME OF NAMIBIA’S SAN

THE ROUTE From Windhoek head east on the B6 toward Hosea Kutako International Airport. After 96 km, just before Omitara, turn left onto the C29 and continue for 162 km. Turn left onto the C22 to Otjinene, continue for 8.6 km, then continue straight onto the D3806. After 226 km, turn left onto D3303, heading north until you reach the C44/M74.

C44 Tsumkwe

Nyae-Nyae Concession Area D3303 D3806

Otjinene

C22 Steinhausen

C29 Omitara Windhoek

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M74

The following day we were on our way to our final destination.

We nearly didn’t get there, though, because due to some mysterious set of circumstances (i.e. forgetfulness) we almost ran out of fuel before making it there. Which made driving on a two-track dirt road with no other cars, let alone towns, in sight so much more exciting (and irresponsible). Luckily we reached a small village before the tank was completely empty and managed to buy a large 50 litre plastic can of diesel, enough to get us to Tsumkwe. The road to Tsumkwe was a long stretch of red earth with bright green bush on each side, the wilderness enveloping us. Thick with mud squelching under our wheels.

We finally made it into town and stopped at the only fuel station, which happened to be a not-so-open general dealer, too. We were really lucky that they even had fuel. The locals are very keen to sell handmade bead jewellery and crafts. This community sees so little activity that I didn't mind purchasing a bracelet from a small wrinkled granny with two barefooted grandkids. Tourism is just about the only industry in Tsumkwe, and it barely sustains the people here. The area features only marginally on most tourism maps. It also happens to be the homeland of the Ju/’hoansi, a subgroup of Namibia’s San.

FINALLY, THE PAN IN ALL ITS GLORY It is quite a distance to the pan. We opted to drive with a guide, thereby also making our contribution to the special and important work that TUCSIN is doing in the local San community. TUCSIN, or The University Centre for Studies in Namibia, is an organisation committed to education as a means of upliftment and empowerment. Its lodge in Tsumkwe is dedicated to support for the marginalised San community.

STAY HERE

ABOUT TSUMKWE AND THE SURROUNDING AREA Tsumkwe is a small settlement in the north-eastern part of Namibia, about 40 km from the border with Botswana and 60 km south of Khaudum National Park. The nearest reasonablysized town is Grootfontein, 250 km to the west. All the roads in the area tend to consist of deep sand (or mud in the rainy season) and should not be attempted without a 4x4 vehicle and a good measure of off-roading experience. The region was formerly known as Bushmanland. Nyae Nyae Conservancy is the second largest conservancy in the country, according to NACSO, with an area of 9 000 km2. More than 1500 elephants live in or migrate through the Nyae Nyae Conservancy. Tsumkwe is the ideal starting point to continue to the Zambezi Region via Khaudum National Park or to Botswana via the Dobe border post to experience the famous Okavango Delta.

Our accommodation was easy-peasy to arrange. We stayed at TUCSIN Tsumkwe Lodge, which is located on the edge of town and has ample camping areas, a number of chalets and a restaurant.

The campsite bathrooms are simple yet functional, with hot-water showers. The waterhole is the ideal spot for sundowners while watching the elephant, kudu, eland and hyena that frequent it.

Tel: +264 (0)67 240 901/3/4 Coordinates: -19.601414, 20.495222

The ground squelches with excess water. Small turtles scuttle away from the danger of the game viewer's wheels. And then finally, the pans. Stunning. Flocks of flamingo all the way from Walvis Bay on the coast, have they come to breed? Young ones, not as bright pink (perhaps they haven’t eaten enough canthaxanthin, the natural pink dye, yet) bring up the rear of the line. The rose quartz soldiers move as one, a wall of pink proceeding forward, scooping up nutrients with their large beaks. It is a paradise. Of course, it is. What else did we expect? I did wonder if perhaps the lions were just hidden in the thick foliage. It is a wild place, it brings out the wild in all of us. It's finding turtles, small and large, in the pools of water. It's seeing the wild landscape open up like the veld flowers that lend colour to it. The baobabs that stand proud and majestic.

What really got us excited, though, was the birdlife. Yes, that’s right. We had a bunch of birders among us. We saw a variety of birds, the birders getting all riled up with the debate over what species of little black and white feathered jobs were squatted on the mounds ahead of us. It turned out they were Whiskered Terns, also found at the seaside. Then the ducks, geese, bee-eaters, spoonbills, African Openbills, Saddle-billed Storks, herons and the Wattled Cranes with their elegant train of feathers flowing behind them like the back of a little black dress. The overall impression of the Nyae Nyae Pans in autumn is what one would have expected in spring. The veld flowers coloured the expanse of the landscape a soft shade of lemon yellow, interspersed with lavender and pink. Lilies sprouted up between the tall grasses, eagerly reaching skyward for more rain. TNN

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The White Lady

– neither a lady, nor white

100 years later the White Lady may have faded, but is still famous

The Brandberg is an open-air art gallery with more than 43 000 individual rock paintings. But it was a single painting that made the mountain famous and kindled a myth that refused to die for many decades. Willie Olivier recently followed in the footsteps of the man who discovered the famous painting to tell the 100-year old story and take fresh photographs.

O

n the 4th of January 1918 a party consisting of surveyor Reinhard Maack, high school teacher Professor Ernst Gries and Georg Schulz, was descending through the Tsisab Ravine after they had made the first recorded ascent of Königstein, the highest peak on the Brandberg and in Namibia, two days earlier.

Despite being overcome by exhaustion, hunger and thirst, Maack decided to look for rock paintings in the lower reaches of the Tsisab, while his two companions continued down the ravine. When he decided to rest in the shade of an overhang, now known as Maack’s Shelter, he was taken by total surprise at what he saw – a frieze that would not only become world-famous, but also the subject of much controversy.

Maack carried a pencil and note book with him and wrote down: “I decided to sketch only the remarkable middle group and some particularly striking figures in my log book, as well as note the main colours and mark their relationship to each other by means of simple symbols so that I could later reconstruct…” He was of the view that the central figure of the frieze had distinctly Mediterranean characteristics, and he had no doubt that it was male.

Enter the French priest and pre-historian, Abbé Henri Breuil, who at the time was considered an authority on cave art in Europe. Whilst attending the joint British-South African Congress for the Advancement of Science at the University of Johannesburg in 1929, Breuil saw copies of Maack’s drawings. He immediately concluded that the central figure depicted a young white female of Mediterranean origin and attributed the painting to foreign explorers that had ventured into Africa.

It was during Breuil’s second visit to South Africa in 1942 that he came across photos taken by archaeologist Dr Ernst Schertz ten years earlier. His secretary and assistant, Mary Boyle, immediately attributed Mediterranean origins to the central figure, now dubbed the White Lady, comparing it to the female figures in the bull leaping fresco in Knossos, Crete.

Although Breuil travelled extensively to rock art sites in several southern African countries during his earlier visits it was not until 1947 that he and Mary Boyle managed to visit Maack’s Shelter. The Abbé delivered a paper – The White Lady of the Brandberg, South-West Africa, her companions and her guards – in his presidential address to the South African Archaeological Association in 1948. And with that address the myth of the White Lady was born – a mysterious figure of unexplained origin.

Breuil’s first volume of The Rock Paintings of Southern Africa was published in 1955 under the title The White Lady of the Brandberg. His controversial and romanticised interpretation of the central figure, the peopling of southern Africa and the age of the paintings did not go unchallenged, however, and was dismissed by several archaeologists.

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Namibian architect and artist Linus Malherbe put the proverbial cat among the pigeons when he gave a presentation, Debunking the Myth, at the Namibia Scientific Society in early July. Linus advanced the hypothesis that the White Lady was painted by a second generation young Viking girl, whose ancestors had immigrated to Iberia (Spain) from where she sailed to explore and trade along the African coastline and the interior. He proposed that the central figure is a playful self-portrait which does not necessarily depict how her people dressed in Iberia.

Detailed analysis of the frieze has led archaeologists to conclude that the paintings in Maack’s Shelter were executed by indigenous people, the Khoisan, and not by visitors from a distant land. The central figure depicts a shaman, while the absence of breasts and the presence of a bow and arrows are seen as evidence that the White ‘Lady’ is a man. A detailed copy of the frieze made by Harald Pager clearly shows that the White Lady has a decorated penis, while the object in the hand of the central figure has been interpreted as half an ostrich egg shell. Professor David LewisWilliams and Thomas Dawson have argued that the white colour of the lower part of the figure in no way implies that it depicts a European, pointing out that elephants have been painted in red, black or white.

He became interested in the White Lady after examining a copy made by the renowned archaeologist Harald Pager. His research of the central figure and the other human figures in the frieze led Linus to conclude that the painting depicts elements from three cultures: Viking, Iberian and Ovahimba.

In their book, Images of Power – Understanding Bushman Rock Art, Lewis-Williams and Dawson describe Breuil’s interpretation of the White Lady painting as giving rise to his “… most spectacular blunder”. Despite the growing body of evidence that the White Lady was neither female nor male, the myth of the White Lady refused to die as it was perpetuated in popular literature for many years.

His hypothesis is based on eight details of the White Lady painting which according to Linus correspond to elements of the Viking, Iberian and Ovahimba cultures.

By the early 1950s the White Lady was becoming a popular tourist attraction as an ever-increasing stream of people made their way up the Tsisab Ravine. The Brandberg National Monument Area was declared a national monument in August 1951 and the overhang was subsequently enclosed by a rather unsightly metal grid to prevent people from defacing the paintings or tampering with them.

The enclosure was finally removed in the early 2000s.

DEBUNKING OR PERPETUATING THE MYTH?

A: The footwear of the central figure – shoes.

B: Large metal-tip arrow heads.

C: (Medieval) Viking belt with the end hanging down.

D: Asymmetrical recurve bow.

E: Hunting knives.

F: Red hair of the central figure with medieval European chainmaille.

G: Iberian marigold, poppy or long-stemmed flower from the Arctic region.

H: Archer's cuff with clasps worn by Vikings.

I: The Viking chest strap is another detail which Linus has identified.

The guiding system to the White Lady dates back to 1995 when the Dâureb Mountain Guides organisation was formed after learners of Uis Secondary School were introduced to the rock art of the mountain by an Irish teacher at the school, a Mr Moore. This was followed by an introductory course by a team from the Heinrich Barth Institute of Archaeology and Environmental History of Africa, based in Cologne, Germany. A formal guiding system was introduced in September 2005, following the enactment of the National Heritage Council Act which had vested official responsibility for managing the mountain in the National Heritage Council of Namibia the previous year.

Venturing down the Tsisab Ravine

Maack's Shelter

Alfons Uwuseb is regarded by his fellow Brandberg guides as ‘the veteran’. He has been a Brandberg guide for the past 24 years. Alfons completed a level three guide course. During the walk to and from Maack’s Shelter, he takes time to explain with authority the various uses of trees along the route, the geology of the mountain and other aspects. At Maack’s Shelter he gives an insightful explanation of the various paintings, including the White Lady. His fine sense of humour and his excellent way of interacting with the group adds to the enjoyment of the walk.

For the past few years a lone elephant bull has become a regular visitor to the Tsisab Ravine from around August.

The attraction, Alfons says, is the sweet smell of the Brandberg Acacia flowers which are relished by the bull.

According to Alfons, the elephant is a good-natured chap.

Alfons is one of five male and four female guides employed by the National Heritage Council of Namibia which is responsible for managing the Brandberg National Monument Area.

Guided walks are conducted daily from 08h00 to 17h00

Following a submission for the inscription of the Brandberg National Monument Area as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002, the property was placed on the tentative list of World Heritage Sites. TNN

FAST FACTS • The site can only be visited in the company of a guide accredited by the National Heritage Council of Namibia. Guided walks are conducted daily from 08h00 to 17h00. The last walk departs at 16h30.

• The 6 km walk there and back takes about twoand-a-half hours. Wear comfortable walking shoes and a hat and take water along.

Willie Olivier is a freelance travel writer and has published several travel books on southern Africa. He has contributed to Travel News Namibia since 1999.

Weisse Dame - Roter Riesen. Felsbilder aus Namibia. Published by Heinrich Barth Institute, Cologne. 1991 (p. 9).

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Beat the sands of time (and Namibia).

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I

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Bush Cooking MARINADES

- Meat lasts much longer when properly marinated Text Antoinette De Chavonnes Vrugt Photographs Hentie Burger

CURRY LAMB CHOPS (My Hungry Heart)

Marinate your lamb chops and freeze until needed. For camping you can just keep them cold for a few days if you do not have freezer facilities.

2 kg lamb chops (saddle, shoulder or leg) 750 ml white vinegar 750 ml chutney 30 ml curry powder 15 ml ground turmeric 125 ml smooth apricot jam 4 onions, sliced •

• •

For the marinade thoroughly mix the vinegar, chutney, curry powder, turmeric and apricot jam.

Layer the lamb chops and onion rings with the marinade in a tray.

Put back in the fridge or freezer until needed.

Braai on medium-hot coals until tender.

Be careful that the coals are not too hot because the apricot jam in the marinade will burn easily. Turn frequently.

SUNDAY LUNCH CHICKEN ON THE BRAAI For camping I marinate the chicken and freeze it in the marinade.

My dad, Renier Swart, used to braai this chicken for Sunday lunch and it remains a family favourite. You can either use chicken pieces or a whole flat chicken.

The chicken is best cooked on medium to hot coals on the braai, but it can also be grilled in the oven and works very well in a Weber.

1 whole chicken, butterflied (or 8 chicken pieces)

MARINADE FOR ONE CHICKEN OR 8 PIECES 125 ml white wine vinegar 125 ml olive oil 5 ml salt 30 ml tomato sauce 30 ml Worcestershire sauce 2 cloves of garlic 1 medium onion 2 ml peri-peri 2 ml paprika 2 ml freshly ground black pepper 2 ml mustard powder • • • •

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Liquidise all ingredients for the marinade together.

Pour over the chicken and marinate for up to 48 hours.

Make sure that your coals are medium hot for slow roasting.

Turn frequently and roast for about 45-60 minutes or until tender and cooked to the bone.

WESTERWALD GEMSBOK SHANKS You must always have meat ready to make a pot on the campfire. You can use venison shanks, lamb shanks or a mix of both. Follow the recipe and then freeze/cool the ingredients before baking/cooking.

The shank is simply one of the tastiest and most affordable cuts of meat.

Cooked in the way described, the sauce is full of flavour and the meat will just fall off the bones. Serve with potato mash, couscous or rice to make it a hearty, comforting meal. The venison can also be replaced with lamb shanks.

8 pieces of gemsbok shanks (or 4 whole lamb shanks) sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 5 ml coriander seeds 1 small dried red chilli 10 ml dried rosemary 5 ml dried marjoram or oregano 15 ml flour 15 ml olive oil 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 large carrots, sliced 6 sticks of celery, sliced 2 onions, chopped 30 ml balsamic vinegar 250 ml dry red wine 1 x tin anchovy fillets 2 x 400 g tins plum tomatoes 1 handful of fresh basil, oregano, flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped for garnishing •

•

Grind the coriander, chilli, rosemary and oregano in a coffee grinder.

Season meat with salt, pepper, spice mixture and flour and put into the casserole.

Put the garlic, carrots, celery, onions and anchovies in a food processor and pulse until just chunky.

Add balsamic vinegar, wine and tomatoes. Pour over the meat.

FOR CAMPING FREEZE AT THIS POINT •

•

Bake in the oven at 180°C for about 4 hours or until soft but not leaving the bone. Skim off any fat and taste for seasoning.

Finally, stir in a handful of roughly chopped fresh basil, oregano or flatleaf parsley. Serve with couscous and salad.

Discover more of Antoinette's delicious recipes in Life on a Table and My Hungry Heart For wholesale and retail contact Bonn Nortjé at Venture Publications: bonn@venture.com.na

DIVINE SPARE RIBS (Life on a Table)

These ribs are pre-cooked and then marinated. At that point you can keep them for a few days in the marinade or freeze until needed.

6 cloves of garlic, crushed Juice of one orange 10 ml mustard powder 5 ml paprika Salt and pepper to taste •

12 pieces of pork rib (± 2 kg)

•

STOCK:

•

Water, salt, pepper, sweet basil, oregano, bay leaves, garlic and ginger

•

SAUCE / MARINADE 125 ml honey 90 ml soya sauce 90 ml tomato sauce 125 ml white vinegar A few drops of Tabasco sauce

• •

Bring all the ingredients for the stock to the boil.

Pre-cook spare ribs in the stock for about 15 minutes.

For the marinade put all the ingredients for the sauce into a big pot and bring to the boil.

Add the pre-cooked, warm ribs to the marinade and boil for another 15 minutes.

Cool down and refrigerate overnight or for up to 3 days.

Braai on medium coals until browned and tender. TNN

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In the Valley of

Golden Light

Experience Kaokoland with Natural Selection’s Hoanib Valley Camp Text and Photographs Elzanne Erasmus

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T

he sun’s rays gleam and edge along the rim of the mountain to the east. I was sitting on the edge of a rock atop a small hill just behind the lodge in this desolate valley to which we had retreated. The golden hues of early morning light slowly crept across the landscape, not unlike water rising steadily. The grass, still tall after a spell of much needed rainfall earlier this year, is set alight by the gentle caress of light as the dawn rises. The crown of seeds on each fragile stem diffusing the shine into every direction. A kaleidoscope of dancing beams creating one of the softest scenes I have ever experienced. Ironic when you take into account where I was. A harsh, hard and desolate desert landscape, transformed in the golden glow of morning.

explorer’s itinerary.

Giraffe have made their home here in this valley of solitude as is evident not only by their presence in the river, but even by the footprints they have left behind in stretches of desert sand and rocky plains to the north of the river. Both young and old enjoy the freedom and luxury of the wild haven they have been afforded within the oasis that is the Hoanib River. An abundance of food and the existence of numerous natural springs mean that survival is possible for all the gentle giants of the Hoanib Valley, giraffe and elephant alike. Natural predators are prevalent, however, as desert lion and a healthy population of brown hyena also call the region home, though the latter is a scavenger and not likely to prey on the strong and healthy.

East of Namibia’s Skeleton Coast National Park, a 2-hour drive from the north-western settlement of Sesfontein on the bank of the ephemeral Hoanib River, a new lodge is nestled amongst the enigmatic geological wonderland characteristic of the region. Two hundred meters or so from one of Namibia’s famed rivers, where desert-adapted species of wildlife such as elephant, giraffe and lion roam, Natural Selection has recently opened the doors, or should we rather say tent flaps, of the latest product in their ever-growing tourism portfolio: Hoanib Valley Camp.

Beautifully appointed suites and a main lodge area that beckons you to come in and immediately makes you feel right at home. Hoanib Valley Camp is a highly recommended luxury retreat for those looking to escape the norm of what an African safari is expected to be and experience the magic of what a truly other-worldly, authentic and special destination such as the Hoanib Valley has to offer. Here, you won’t find the crowds and the rush of a popular national park, waiting in what seems like a queue to get your chance to snap a picture. No, here you’ll find solitude and silence and undisturbed beauty, yours to soak up and enjoy.

Flanked by rugged mountainscapes to the west, north and east, the tented lodge overlooks a stunningly beautiful stretch of the Hoanib Valley and the river that lies to the south. With its towering Ana trees and host to wildlife brave enough to take on the often extreme climate of Namibia’s Kaokoland, this destination should surely be on every nature lover’s and

Hoanib Valley Camp is located on the northern bank of the Hoanib River, a 2-hour drive from Sesfontein.

On a nature drive down the river it feels as though we have traversed a multitude of biomes. From the harsh and rugged mountains in which the lodge is ensconced, to the lush greenery of the dry riverbed down which we travel we arrive at a stark valley on the northern bank of the river, not far from

Tall trees for desert giraffe: The Hoanib River Valley is home to a healthy population of these tall wonders.

the boundary to Skeleton Coast National Park. The views astound and once again we are in awe of the arresting way the light catches each texture and contour of the landscape before us. This time the afternoon light is the artist putting on a spectacular show as it ignites the rugged terrain and makes what was once rough and hard and harsh seem as though it was a delicately painted watercolour awash with the golden glow and softness of perfect light. The shadows dance as they move across the landscape to the rhythm of the sun’s retreat.

During our farewell drive upriver towards Sesfontein, a lioness crosses the riverbed in front of us, slinking along the early morning shadows. And as the sun once again rises and captures the mountain visages to the north and south of our river route, we bid farewell to the magnificent wilderness and the golden light that envelopes this special valley in Namibia. TNN

WHO WHAT WHERE HOW Natural Selection is a recently established safari company, whose owners have been in the tourism game for many years. Hoanib Valley Camp is the first newly-built establishment within their Namibian portfolio. Others include: Safarihoek and Etosha Mountain Lodge in the Etosha Heights Private Reserve, which they manage, and Shipwreck Lodge in the Skeleton Coast National Park, which they co-own with Trip Travel and Journeys Namibia. Nkasa Linyanti Camp inside Nkasa Rupara National Park in Namibia’s Zambezi Region is also scheduled to open soon.

To book your stay at Hoanib Valley Camp or for more information on Natural Selection’s portfolio of safari experiences, visit: www.naturalselection.travel.

ABOVE: A Dollar Bush in the golden glow of the setting sun Rièth van Schalkwyk and our guide Nico

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How BIG DREAMS have empowered a small community on a

BIG MOUNTAIN

Grootberg Lodge and the people of the ≠Khoadi-//Hôas Conservancy Elzanne Erasmus recently sat down with Asser Ndjitezeua, the Chairman of the ≠Khoadi-//Hôas Conservancy in Namibia’s Kunene Region, to talk about the conservancy model, the benefits of tourism for communities and the big dreams that have come true for locals in the region, an area often referred to as Damaraland.

O

n top of the Grootberg, Afrikaans for ‘big mountain’, a lodge is balanced along the edge of the mountainside.

An even bigger view stretches out before it. The valleys, hills and rocky landscape are visually dramatic, but the vantage point is what makes it truly arresting. It’s here, on top of the world, that I sit down with the chairman of the local conservancy. Asser Ndjitezeua is the longest serving member of the ≠Khoadi-//Hôas Conservancy council. He knows the land and the people, and he is an avid advocate for the massive contribution which tourism makes to the bottom line of the people who call the district home. “The importance of tourism for the community cannot be understated,” Asser says. He explains how locals have come to realise that the natural resources and highlights of the region are the only drawcard for visitors and that these visitors are vital in putting bread on their tables. Thus the community has started to value resources such as wildlife and now takes an active participatory interest in their protection.

According to Asser, tourism is the financial and socioeconomic backbone of the conservancy. It is the major direct

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revenue generator for the conservancy and thus indirectly for the broader community, even those who are not employed by a tourism entity, as the community derives benefits from the conservancy construct.

At Grootberg Lodge local rhino rangers employed by the conservancy offer rhino tracking excursions as an activity to guests. People now attach not only sentimental value to rhinos, but also a monetary one, as they can see how the presence and continued existence of these animals bring revenue to the lodge.

Asser states that the tourism industry has also been an eyeopener for community members in many respects. By working in tourism they have the opportunity to develop skills they would never have been able to acquire otherwise and to better themselves beyond their humble beginnings.

Another major benefit of revenue derived from tourism is the capacity it creates for conservation initiatives. With income generated by activities such as rhino tracking, the conservancy

COMMUNITY is able to appoint more game guards, simultaneously creating more jobs and protecting wildlife.

The community receives a diverse range of benefits from the conservancy model. Initiatives such as human-wildlife conflict mitigation tactics and infrastructural contributions in the form of boreholes and the like are one of the results. Women and youth empowerment projects, are often funded by the conservancy council and scholarships are awarded to those looking to further their studies, especially in tourism.

Asser explains that in the framework of community relations, employing one person helps to feed another ten. More than 100 community members are employed by the conservancy’s tourism establishments, at Grootberg Lodge, Hoada Campsite and Hobatere Lodge. “If you appoint 100 you give bread to 1000.”

Grootberg Lodge is the only lodge in Namibia that is owned 100% by the local community. With the help of donor funding and loans, the community has set up a completely unique ownership model within the Namibian tourism industry framework. Unlike other joint-venture tourism projects where investors build lodges and pay a levy to the community, all the infrastructure and fixed assets of Grootberg Lodge are owned by the community. Journeys Namibia participates in the capacity of lodge management and marketing for which a management fee is paid.

From humble beginnings to a local tourism powerhouse, the ≠Khoadi-//Hôas Conservancy and its members have made big dreams come true on the top of this majestic mountain.

May tourism flourish and continue to support Namibians across the nation! TNN

MEET MARIANA GUIM ASSISTANT MANAGER AT GROOTBERG LODGE Starting as a waitress at Grootberg, with a school education that ended at Grade 9, Mariana’s story of success is a special one. In the beginning she could speak neither Afrikaans nor English. Today she is the assistant manager of the lodge, speaks both languages fluently, is computer-literate and sends emails with professional efficiency. She says, the most profound effect that the lodge and working in the tourism industry has had on her life is the fact that she was able to raise herself to where she is today, without taking hand-outs or struggling in an industry that would have taken her away from home.

MEET ERENST GAROEB SENIOR GUIDE AT GROOTBERG LODGE For the past 13 years Erenst has called Grootberg his home-not-so-far-away-from-home. He started as a builder, helping with the construction of the lodge, then moved on to work in maintenance, as a security guard, a driver, in the laundry room and the scullery. Eventually he became a tracker and then a guide. This jack-of-alltrades is an invaluable member of the staff at Grootberg.

Erenst recounts how he has loved his years here, finding it especially rewarding to be able to see the direct result of the work he does, be it for conservation or to the enjoyment of his guests. He says he has learned a lot by becoming a guide. “When you know the animals you can apply that knowledge to your own community, especially when it comes to conflict with wildlife, like on my own farm.” He says that he can now teach his neighbours about elephant behaviour and help both them and the animals by understanding how to act and react around them. When asked what type of work he would do if he weren’t in tourism he answered: “I’d probably be fixing donkey-carts next to the road.”

DID YOU KNOW? Learn more about the Namibia CommunityBased Natural Resource Management model at www.nacso.org.na Check out the ≠Khoadi-//Hôas Conservancy profile on our website: www.travelnewsnamibia.com/news/ conservancy-profile-≠khoadi-hoasconservancy/ To book your stay at Grootberg Lodge visit www.grootberg.com

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Namibia Wildlife Resorts

THE GREATER

FISH RIVER CANYON LANDSCAPE A unique conglomerate of species and geology Landscape-level conservation is a Travel News Namibia series aimed at raising awareness of this highly effective conservation outlook. The first article, an introduction to all five appointed landscapes in Namibia, was published in the 2018 Winter Edition of Travel News Namibia. As a NAMPLACE project, landscape conservation received government funding from 2011 to 2016. Despite this limited timeframe the intention was for each landscape to take stock of what has been learned in a 5-year course and use it as building blocks to continue conservation on a big scale. However, certain challenges still remain.

Annelien Robberts takes a look at landscape-level conservation of the Greater Fish River Canyon Landscape (GFRCL) with the Coordinator for Landscapes Conservation Areas, Monika Shikonga, who shares the success stories and talks about the obstacles and the way forward.

W

hen talking to people who originate from the south, I often become aware of an undeniable nostalgia in their voices, which in itself tells a story about this land with its highly diverse landscapes and climatic extremes. The love of these people for the rugged landscape is deeper than the incised Orange River (less than 100 m) and higher than the Namuskluft Peak at 1 654 m above mean sea level.

Despite the fact that I come from the north, my heart also beats compassionately for this mosaic of diverse topographic features that makes up the GFRCL. It covers 7621 km², which

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means there is so much to love – from the Orange River in the south to the Naute Recreational Resort further north, from the Ai-Ais Hotsprings in the west (bordering the Sperrgebiet National Park) to the top of the Klein Karas Mountains in the east. The area incorporates /Ai-/Ais National Park (now also known as /Ai-/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park), the Naute Recreation Resort, private farms, private game reserves and a communal conservancy.

The landscape extends across two biomes, the Nama Karoo and the Succulent Karoo. It includes the largest single conservation

LANDSCAPE-LEVEL CONSERVATION area of the Succulent Karoo biome in Namibia, an ecosystem recognised as one of the 25 biological ‘hotspots’ of the world.

An array of rocky and sandy plains, rocky hillsides, plateaus, drainage lines, incised valleys and ephemeral river courses characterise the GFRCL. In the course of its fascinating geological history some of the oldest rocks, over 2,000 million years old, were formed along the Orange River valley.

According to Monika, some areas, especially those in the north-western part of the GFRCL in the inaccessible Huns Mountains, have remained relatively undisturbed by human intervention. By contrast the areas adjacent to the Orange River and to the east and north of Ai-Ais National Park have been severely affected by mining and agriculture.

WHO ARE THE FOUNDING MEMBERS OF THE GFRCL? /Ai-/Ais National Park, Aussenkehr Nature Park, Canyon Nature Park, Canyon Private Nature Reserve, Gondwana Canyon Park, Klein Karas Community Cooperative, Naute Recreational Park (represented by MET), Ai-Ais Hotsprings Resort (Namibia Wildlife Resorts) and Hobas Resort (Namibia Wildlife Resorts).

SUCCESS STORIES: WORKING FROM THE BOTTOM UP The GFRCL is a great example of collaborative stakeholders who realised the importance of working from the bottom up. This means that they firstly identified the people’s needs and used that as the get-go. For starters, the Klein Karas community greatly benefited from much-needed support in the form of a sewing project and a green garden project.

Furthermore, shepherd dogs were introduced to protect the farming community’s livestock against predators.

Monika further explains, “They were also able to address the major issue of poaching, a ‘top’ problem, by improving radio communication, which is a ‘bottom’ element. This has also led to the more regular recording of game counts that are still ongoing, which is extremely important in such vast spaces as it will help to identify other problems that need to be addressed.

Another project worth mentioning is an annual clean-up campaign that still continues strongly.”

meeting between stakeholders is in the pipeline, so that the position of the landscape can be figured out, as well as funding for activities. She also highlights that all land-users need to be accommodated, because it is the only way to ensure sustainability. The emphasis will remain on non-consumptive uses, sustainable land management practices, low impact tourism, environmental education, awareness and outreach initiatives and research, as well as to create strategic and focused economic opportunities without compromising on sound conservation principles and practices.

Once stakeholders have met, the research will continue in order to gain a deeper understanding of this ecosystem, since there is not enough data about species distribution on a landscape level yet. Monika acknowledges that there are a lot of things that should be taken into account, such as extremely low and spatially erratic rainfall in the area and local wildlife migration across vast distances as a survival strategy. Due to this, the removal of artificial barriers hampering the natural movement of wildlife within the GFRCL has to be considered. This will restore historic grazing and migration patterns. Eventually, plants and animals indigenous to the area can be reintroduced.

All of this is possible, Monika explains, if partners and neighbours collaborate and align management practices. There is also some exciting news… Sperrgebiet might soon be added to this successful landscape, which will potentially advance conservation in the country.

All in all, GFRCL has served as an example of smart publicprivate sector partnership and collaborative management between different members and across public and private land. We are excited to keep an eye on this landscape – a conservation norm setter in Namibia. TNN

Moreover, the improvement of the landscape’s ecological database has enabled the revision of previous mapping for Ai-Ais National Park. Mountain areas could thus be divided into smaller landscape units, which facilitated more detailed descriptions. Some of the boundaries were also slightly adjusted. The point of all this is to pinpoint gaps in our knowledge of the biodiversity, which could help to channel further research.

THE FUTURE OF THE LANDSCAPE The next step in the process is to revive the community. As Monika knows the significance of putting plans into action, a

Paul van Schalkwyk

Working from the not-so-glamorous bottom has its advantages.

Although plants are relatively well studied in Namibia, keen botanists will be excited to know that new plant species have been discovered as a result of intensive surveys. This is thrilling news, as finding new species is not a daily event. Plus, range extensions generated new records of plants in areas where they have not been found previously.

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How the Fish River Canyon

RAN OVER ME. Text Christine Hugo

Photographs Elmarie van Rensburg & Stefan Hugo

Eventually, all things merge into one, and a river runs through it. The river was cut by the world’s great flood and runs over rocks from the basement of time. On some of the rocks are timeless raindrops. Under the rocks are the words, and some of the words are theirs.

I am haunted by waters.�

- Norman Maclean, A River Runs Through It and Other Stories

Paul van Schalkwyk

Like with most trouble in life, I went looking for it.

Hiking the Fish River Canyon was never on my bucket list. Sure, I love rocks. I wanted to see it. From the deck of a lodge on the edge of the canyon perhaps. Over a cold beer.

So when my friend invited us along for her birthday trip my immediate (and rational) reply was ‘of course not’. But then it got me thinking...

What would I find if I plunged into an experience so entirely out of my comfort zone? What might life on the edge make of me?

In the end I signed up as kind of a personal social experiment.

We would be disconnected from all technology for five days. No phone. No emails or Whatsapp. No ice, hot water, cappuccinos, makeup. Just two sets of clothes, a hat and sunscreen. Thin mattress, inflatable pillow, sleeping bag. A warm jacket. And a tiny towel. Instant meals (don’t read the list of ingredients). And a walking stick.

Simply the unadulterated earth-rock-river-stars-sun-and-moon.

And I. Perhaps I would bump into myself along the way. Maybe we would be able to have a conversation that we haven’t had in years. It’s been so busy, real life - children, routines, maintaining the white picket fence.

To be honest, I didn’t consider the physical element to this little project all that much. In hindsight I suspect I subconsciously

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reasoned that I would only really reach an honest conclusion if I went absolutely unprepared into my little experiment. Because natural disasters never really give people time to prepare, do they? Apart from the few 3-hour weekend walks with rucksack and the odd hike up a hill, I did not really train very hard.

Walking was natural, wasn’t it? I trained much less than I did for my half-marathon...

But this was no half-marathon my friend. This was a rocky, slippery shortcut into the abyss.

Two metres down the 100-metre descent I realised that I was screwed. The 12-kg rucksack altered my normal sense of balance, which is rather unsettling if you’re dangling on the edge of eternity with one hand on the rusty chain and the other on a walking stick, planted somewhere between loose rocks and what you hope to be a hard place. Eyes dart for the next foothold, that a) will not give way b) is close enough for your alarmed hamstring muscle to not buckle and c) can accommodate your step without demanding a sudden intervention that will send you, rucksack first, to sure death. Ten metres down and my legs were shaking. Concentration was streaming down my back and neck.

The rest of the Olympian deities in our group, however, did not look fazed at all. They seemed to be flying down the rocks with light steps and hearts. It was obvious. I had taken the plunge and this train was a runaway torture chamber. There was no turning back. And I was the weakest link.

Every time I stopped to catch my breath and could safely lift my gaze, my heart buckled at the sight of walls of rock curling and sweeping and roaring in the afternoon sun. I was in no state to be seduced, but the canyon didn’t seem to care.

Having survived the descent I took a few large swigs of whiskey from the small plastic bottle everybody advised us to pack.

Hadn’t realised it was intended for medicinal and not necessarily recreational purposes. I was a survivor. Alive and in love. I might not have made it without the help of my Olympian gods who climbed up and down several times to help carry my rucksack so that I could move faster than five metres an hour. But good for me for choosing the best people. I floated up from my al fresco bed to the galaxy above us, tipsy on whiskey and endorphins.

What an incredible adventure. This was going to be wonderful...

Day two started innocently enough. I was stiff as a corpse, yes, but managed to stand all the way up. I could even get halfway down to the ground again to have a wee. This was going very well.

For about two minutes.

The Olympians took off like they’d missed the migration. We started walking at first light to cover the bulk of the distance before it got too hot. It was not even 7 a.m., I was soaking wet with sweat and the previous day’s assault hammered at my legs.

My poor husband had contracted a stomach bug and was white as a sheet. He would not be my rock today, that much was clear. It was every man for himself.

It was a disaster. Four days still lay ahead of us and I could not fathom how I was going to make my legs do what I needed them to do. Whose bad idea was this? How did I sign up for anything that I could not get out of – I hated roller coasters for that exact reason! Yet here I was. No way back.

No way out.

The pack moved at a vigorous pace. Good thing I had come to find myself, because everyone else was running away. For a minute I felt somewhat panicky and then I remembered that I was a bloody 40 years old and I could do anything I put my mind to if I did it on my own terms and at my own pace.

If I wanted to stop at every tiny plant, every rock, if I wanted to take a minute to gaze at the changing colour of the cliffs, to listen to the silence and feel the river, if that was what I needed to do to get through this, then that was exactly what I was going to do. Damn it.

The terrain was brutal. Large boulders obstructed rock formations that lined the river, demanding extreme physical navigation, up and down and under and through. Boulders gave way to thick sand that led to round slippery stepping stones across the river and continued in an endless dry swamp of rocks that gave way to thick sand, boulders, rock... And so it went on, relentlessly.

The day passed in a fever dream of colour and heat and textures. They moved under and through and over me. I didn’t allow myself to think or look too far ahead. One foot in front of the other. One rock at a time, one more and one more and one more.

My little toes were squashed down in my shoes (which fitted perfectly before, with ample room at the front) and I felt my nails being pressed out of the nail beds. It’s so funny how the mind works. I started telling myself that everything would be bearable if only my toes didn't hurt so much. Not the heat. Not the aching muscles or the backpack pushing into my hips and pulling at my shoulders, not smelling like a zoo, dripping wet and utterly exhausted. No, the little toes were indeed the end of the world.

At some point during the morning I bumped into myself. “This is it, silly. This is what you wanted, isn’t it? To be completely, utterly out of your depth? It is supposed to be sore and hard and uncomfortable. This is the process. So why are you not leaning in?”

So I did. I chanted myself into a meditative state, alternating She Bleeds Tangerine with Jesus Loves Me Yes I Know and floated along quietly, mindful of the graphic patterns of the rocks, the shifting shadows and the cool, soothing river water that tasted of earth and sunshine. Sometime in the late afternoon, after certain eventualities of orientation strangely caused me to be ahead of the Olympians and the subsequent confusion, we reached the hot springs.

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Oh, what bliss, the boiling hot water on dirty, battered bodies.

We walked the last hour to our overnight spot and set up camp.

I was done. Everything ached. My bones, my skin, my head, my toes. My heart. I was utterly, thoroughly exhausted. My poor husband was dehydrated and in pain. I dug deep into myself to find the strength to make him a cup of soup and then sunk down next to the fire. The atmosphere was more reserved than the previous evening’s giddy hysteria. I noticed with some relief that the Olympians were also exhausted. Most of them anyway… The good people rubbed my legs and my back. We ate dinner with enormous gratitude to the individuals who could muster the strength to prepare it. I was afraid to go to bed.

I wasn’t ready for morning to dawn yet again. I could not do another day. I was done.

Not in the best hotel, or on the most expensive therapeutic mattress, have I slept as well as I did on that bed of rock that night. The gas burner woke me up the next morning and miraculously kind, generous sleep had forgiven my sins.

I was literally broken in. I bound my feet with dressing, hoisted my backpack and took up my walking stick like a sceptre.

Day three in the parallel universe started with more familiar rhythm and I felt confident in the groove. Shortcuts (very relatively speaking) steered us away from the river, up rocky hills and over gravel plains. Stark but beautiful in the harsh, uncompromising way that only the rock desert can be. I kept

After you have exhausted what there is in business, politics, conviviality, and so on – have found that none of these finally satisfy, or permanently wear – what remains? Nature remains; to bring out from their torpid recesses, the affinities of a man or woman with the open air, the trees, fields, the changes of seasons – the sun by day and the stars of heaven by night.

- Walt Whitman

expecting a J.R.R. Tolkien character to peep out from behind a rock. We crossed fields of minute succulents and skimmed rock faces and with every hour that passed the landscape, the sun and the river replaced me.

This is the purpose of pilgrimage, but you have to wait it out, see it through, to realise where it has taken you.

I have a mental picture, or actually it’s more of a mental space that I go back to from time to time, of our last morning. We camped out on a broad stretch of riverbed that created the impression of an island in the river. The final stretch of walking would not take long, so we could linger a bit in the morning.

The first light settled on the landscape around us where the end of the canyon expanded into a wider space. It lit up the specs of dust and insects hovering over the river and the world was still and light.

I found it so easy and natural to breathe.

It’s been two months since our walk. I can’t look at my walking shoes yet. They make me want to throw up. Did I find what I was looking for? Yes. Do I know what exactly that is? No. You soon forget the physical assault of the Fish. What remains with you are the colours and the light. The laughter, the context that exists between people who journey together – moving in and out of one another’s spheres, talking, laughing and at times just moving together in silence, everyone busy with their own thoughts and private process.

And of course nature remains. The space that it opens up in your soul, that space that fills with air and light and earth – that remains. And you can go into it whenever you need to breathe.

Will I do it again? If you asked me on that last day when we finally reached the end of the journey, ice cold beer in the hand, dirty and dusty and deeply relieved, I would have said no way.

Why would I ever put myself through all of that again?

But I’ve been thinking... TNN

FIVE QUICK TIPS FOR FIRST-TIMERS 1. Be physically prepared. A reasonable level of fitness is required to take on this challenge. Make sure you are in good health and that you do plenty of lunges beforehand.

2. Don't take too much stuff. A lighter bag will make a world of difference to your hike.

3. Pack a quality inflateable mattrass to ensure that you get a good night's sleep.

4. Never lose sight of your group during the hike. Stick together!

5. The right shoes make the difference between fun and failure. Proper trail running shoes or hiking boots with sturdy well-gripped soles are a must! Don't attempt it in normal running shoes or sneakers.

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Christine Hugo is a director of 99FM and TribeFire Studios, mother of three and writer extraordinaire.

And of course nature remains. The space that it opens up in your soul, that space that fills with air and light and earth – that remains. And you can go into it whenever you need to breathe.

Sense of Africa celebrates

50 YEARS A

t Sense of Africa each team player makes the brand their own.

Managing Director Paul Brinkmann believes this is what sets Sense of Africa apart from other tour operators. The heart of the company, its people, beats with passion, energy, and inspiration. When chatting to Paul and Kira Brinkmann (Sales & Marketing Director), it is clear that Sense, as they affectionately call it, is creative, outgoing and innovative.

Being go-getters they are willing to bite off more than they can chew and then chew like hell, with the assurance that the teammates have each other’s back.

With 50 years’ worth of experience, Sense of Africa has acquired a reputation for quality tailor-made tours to meet each traveller’s needs. “We try and follow a philosophy of under-promising and over-delivering.” Booking a tour through Namibia with Sense of Africa promises to be so much more than just a journey.

Paul believes that being mainstream is okay as Namibia by definition is unique and adventurous. You do not need to be exclusive to provide an extraordinary experience and Sense aims at providing ordinary people an extraordinary experience whilst travelling with Sense of Africa.

Paul compares Namibia to an Ice Queen.

“She is extraordinarily beautiful but she does not necessarily appeal to everyone.

She is neither cheap, nor is she easy, but she has something mystical about her. This is what Namibia is - hauntingly beautiful, surreal, soulful, liberating.”

Fifteen years ago Paul quit his job as a lawyer to become part of this passionate

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brand. He had the urge to create. “As a lawyer you are much like the pen used to sign the contract – you get used and when the job is done, you get paid and it is over,” Paul explains. By contrast his position at Sense allows him to make people’s dreams come true.

The company had its humble beginnings in 1962 when Belgian Congolese Jacques Dumont sat in his office in Swakopmund waiting for people who wanted to do tours or short excursions. Back then the business was called Oryx Safaris. Even at the airport when guests arrived, all staff would be present creating a funnel as a welcoming committee for their visitors.

Avis bought the company and turned it into Oryx Tours. When it joined forces with Trans Namibia Tours, a division of Tourvest, the merged company continued under the name Oryx Tours. Oryx however was known as a coach operator and the business wanted to focus on tour operating. So they decided to recreate their brand and turn it into something sexy and vibrant. Thus, the re-energised Sense of Africa was born in 1999 – a destination management company. The name officially changed and the owners had one main goal in mind: exceeding guests’ expectations.

Sense of Africa has seen the biggest spike in growth from 2006 to 2010 and is constantly moving forward. With cutting edge IT and their Business-toBusiness System, the company ensures that it is keeping up with the times and staying relevant by knowing the product.

Sense of Africa does not only promote Namibia, but also contributes to projects

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within the borders of the country it loves. Being strong supporters of conservancies, they walked away with the Inaugural Sustainability Award. The company also gets a lot of support from tour operators who donate money for each booking made.

For its 50th birthday celebrations, Sense of Africa wants to recognise its partners.

A tour through Namibia will be organised for agents and they will visit the properties that they promote. There will also be a glamorous gala event in Swakopmund.

Of course, some internal champagne popping will also be taking place.

Due to expansion over the years it is no longer possible to line up as a guard of honour at the airport and shake each guest’s hand upon arrival, but Sense of Africa still prides itself on being big enough to matter, but small enough to care.

Tel: + 264 61 275 300 Email: info@sense-of-africa.com.na www.senseofafrica.com

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BEER MAKING

at THE SWAKOPMUND BREWING COMPANY

S

trand Hotel Swakopmund dominates the culinary scene at the Mole in this quaint coastal town. Its three restaurants – the Brewer & Butcher, Ocean Cellar and Farmhouse Deli – boast the most coveted view of the Atlantic Ocean.

SIX FOOD AND BEER PAIRINGS RECOMMENDED BY RONN: 1. Altbier is great with roasted chicken or pork chops.

2. Helles/Lager for the win with a lighter dish such as chicken, fish or salads.

3. Try India Pale Ale (IPA) with spicy foods like spicy chicken wings. Ronn thinks that it goes well with carrot cake too, but that is yet to be tried.

4. Bockbier is a great dessert beer.

Apparently it tastes best when paired with chocolate. Who would have thought?

5. Hefeweizen is great with seafood and salads.

6. The Märzen beer goes down well with pizza or any meat dishes.

Upon walking into the Brewer & Butcher it is impossible to miss the two metal tanks that decorate the interior of the restaurant. The mash tun and the lauter tun, as we later learned, are not for aesthetic purposes only. It is in fact a microbrewery, a subsidiary of Namibia Breweries Limited. Right here in these two tuns, or casks, the beer brewing process starts, mashing and stirring away while locals and holidaymakers enjoy German delicacies enhanced with Namibian flavour.

We met up with Ronn Rittmann, Swakopmund Brewing Company’s beer brewer, for a beer tasting and to learn more about this exciting craft. Ronn started as an apprentice at Namibia Breweries Limited in March 2009 and received extensive training in Bavaria, Germany. He proudly states that he brews German-quality Namibian beer. After teaching us the step-by-step procedure from mashing and fermentation to the lager process, and letting us take a whiff of all the different malts stored upstairs, we got to taste five beers, including bacon beer!

Join the brewer for a beer tasting and take a tour of the micro-brewery, because sometimes you need to slow down and smell the malt, available in flavours ranging from bacon and straw to chocolate and caramel. After your tasting you can pair your favourite beer with one of the many dishes on the Brewer & Butcher’s menu, sit back and enjoy the view while the sound of crashing waves amplifies your holiday mood.

RONN SHARES SOME FUN FACTS ABOUT BEER:

Tel: +264 64 411 4000 Email: strand.res@ol.na www.brewer-butcher.com

1. The Egyptians were the first to start brewing beer.

2. Beer contains all the minerals the body requires, but do enjoy it in moderation.

3. Many years ago nuns used to brew beer to generate an extra income for the church.

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I am a man of simple tastes – I am quite easily satisfied with the best of everything.

- Winston Churchill

Birding for 62

Beginners

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Text and Photographs Pompie Burger

Arriving in Namibia many moons ago as a free man, not on any antidepressants but with lots of hair and muscles, weekends were open for enjoyment. As a novice birder (2 months), I decided that Etosha should be the first place to conquer with my new-found knowledge and enthusiasm for the world of birds. Since I had been in the country for just one month there were a few birds to discover, over 600 to be more precise. Without wanting to bore the reader with the "wel en weĂŤ van (ups and downs of) die blou bul birder" this might be of real importance to any novice Namibian and birder.

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esson one: Etosha is not just a short distance from Windhoek! Still, a weekend is more than enough time to do Etosha, no sweat (no aircon).

Zip away on a Friday afternoon (not so zippy with a Datsun 120Y bakkie), arrive too late to enter the park, sleep outside Andersson Gate, fire, beer and worsie (sausage), problem solved, but bad start.

Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk (Melierax canorus)

Apparently, had you made it to Okaukuejo instead, you would have seen and heard a few different owl species.

At the waterhole you would have seen at least a rhino and a few elephants. During the rainy season the odd nightjar would have entertained you, and you would easily identify it within the next 35 years.

Early Saturday morning after a beer for breakfast we popped in at Okaukuejo, took a quick walk around the camp and saw our first raptor, a Pygmy Falcon, at a Sociable Weaver nest behind the camping site. On that walk we also saw our first normal birds: Groundscraper Thrush, Acacia Pied Barbet and a few other grasshoppers, not to mention a Common Scimitarbill and a Southern White-crowned Shrike. The Crimsonbreasted Shrike was a good colour introduction to the rest of our trip.

If you want to see Etosha within 48 hours you have to move on, so we took the western bypass to Leeubron.

The big Acacia tortilis provided us with a majestic Martial Eagle. Unfortunately, the tree is history now, the eagle left and was replaced by the odd White-browed Scrub-Robin and Scaly-feathered Finch. On the way back to the main road we saw a Fiscal Shrike (years later the importance of the subspecies subcoronatus was realised).

Our next stop was Adamax. On the way there we saw Double-banded Coursers, Northern Black Korhaan, Kori Bustards and other plains birds like larks. Next on our map was Okondeka, but back then no lions yet.

Fortunately, new birds were added to my list on the way there, among them a Ludwig’s Bustard, another special sighting for any birder. A few new raptors had been identified, such as the Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk and the Greater Kestrel. Incidentally both like to do their hunting on foot in this area (they have no other options, there are no trees in the vicinity).

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Lilac-breasted Roller (Coracias Caudatus)

Dusky Lark (Pinarocorys nigricans)

BIRDING WITH POMPIE

Cisticolas, larks and pipets were rather irrelevant at that stage of my birding career (I was still struggling to differentiate between an ostrich and a dove), but they were on my waiting list, although only many years later. When the surroundings started to look familiar, we realised we were back at Okaukuejo, so after another beer for dessert, we continued east. Reaching Gemsbokvlakte we came across two Secretarybirds trying to catch a snake, while I also saw my first Capped Wheatear. Back then my birding was done in Afrikaans so it was a Skaapwagter, although there were no sheep in sight.

On the way to Olifantsbad we saw a Lilac-breasted Roller having breakfast, and I quickly took 200 pictures from all different angles. Realising time was running out, we made a quick stop at Aus. A Lanner and a Peregrine Falcon did not make our progress any easier, so lunch at Halali had to wait. Obviously from here, the more our speed, empty beer bottles and the heat increased, the fewer birds we saw, but Kris Kristofferson explained to us that if he and Bobby McGee could make it, no reason why we couldn’t.

Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk (Melierax canoras)

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Bare-cheeked Babbler (Turdoides gymnogenys)

At Charitsaub (now my absolute favourite waterhole) we saw a pair of Blue Cranes with a chick, incidentally a very special group of (Etosha) Blue Cranes because their closest family/friends are about 2000 km south. In the tree, the only tree, we saw four different raptors, that's if you call a Black Crow a raptor, a Lesser Kestrel, a Redneck Falcon and yet another Greater Kestrel. From here it was back to the main road while Rodriquez was trying to keep us cool, but his Cold Facts were not really effective.

Halali Camp was an eye-opener and more birds were added to my growing tick list. A quick walk in the camp provided us with Violet Wood Hoopoes, White-crested Helmetshrikes, Barecheeked Babblers, Carp's Tits, Southern White-faced Owls and Damara Hornbills (some of these identifications where made about 20 years later, and in fact four of these were endemics, whatever that meant). More importantly, we had a few beers at the restaurant seeing two Scops Owls in a tree above us, while sorting our fluid levels out yet again. It might have been one, though. The pair of Augur Buzzards at the Helio Hills was a good introduction to the area east of Halali. At Goas the Tawny Eagle sitting on a dead leadwood tree was a worthy visitor to this beautiful waterhole.

Damara Hornbill (Tockus damarensis)

Greater Kestral (Falco rupicoliodes)

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BIRDING WITH POMPIE

Unfortunately, we were running late again, planning not to sleep outside Namutoni’s gate.

At Kalkheuwel a lost leopard and a flock of over a million, maybe more, Red-billed Quelea were trying to have a drink while being harassed by a Gabar Goshawk and a Little Sparrowhawk.

Trying to balance our fluid levels (getting rid of fluid), a group of Rüppell's Parrots came in for a drink (fluid levels). Before arriving at Namutoni we saw a Red-footed Falcon getting to know a Namaqua Dove very intimately. Our raptor count was reaching dazzling proportions. Making it through the gate just in time after another tough day in Africa, we settled down inside the camp with some fluids and tjoppies on the coals.

The next morning we did some birding in the camp and saw a Brubru, a Bearded Woodpecker and a group of Buffalo Weavers. A visit to the fort revealed some sunbirds and starlings enjoying the nectar of an Erythrina tree. Then we hit the road to Fischer’s Pan, although the bakkie was particularly good at hitting potholes.

Apart from various LBJ's (this term made sense to me only much later) we saw our first Gymnogene (African Harrier-

hawk) hunting for food in a tree. The fact that we saw a kill with a few vultures and Marabous cleaning up does not mean this is standard procedure on a visit to Etosha. The group of European Bee-eaters was a surprise in the context of the greater colour scheme. Nothing could have prepared us for the next surprise awaiting us at the bridge back to Namutoni, where a large flock of Flamingos was trying to settle down among stilts, waders and shovelers.

A last throw-of-the-dice-visit to Klein Namutoni waterhole was a good end to our weekend. Apart from a couple of Damara dik-dik and a rhino we saw Grey Hornbills, Crested Francolins and babblers. A few years later I realised that the Black-faced Babblers we saw were yet another special. After this we decided to call it a day. We could always come back for more at a later stage.

Surprise, surprise the later stage became another and another… I did not make a tick list, but we might be at visit number 100. Dylan is still with us, Springsteen was added and Cohan is not with us anymore, but his golden voice is still on the CD (no tape recorder!). The beer was replaced by ice cream, but apart from that little has changed. TNN

Red-necked Falcon (Falco chicquera)

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REST, REFRESH AND REJUVENATE responsibly.

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ong before it became the trend du jour in tourism to be responsible, eco-friendly and more, N/a’an ku sê was already setting the standard. As a company that is based on a mission to empower Namibia’s marginalised San communities, while at the same time protecting its endangered wildlife, N/a’an ku sê defines what responsible tourism should mean.

A new generation of travellers has proven that merely providing an exciting experience is no longer enough. Tourism establishments need to offer something out of the ordinary as well. And that, for many travellers, means giving back, giving their time and money to improve the environment, offset the damage caused by humankind, or at the very least, use tourism as a tool to improve the environment and uplift its inhabitants.

Ahead of the trend, the N/a’an ku sê Foundation has been consciously involved in ecotourism from the outset, its mission being to conserve land, cultures and wildlife in Namibia.

Tourism that supports conservation. That’s their mantra.

Established in 2006 by Rudie and Marlice van Vuuren, the main aim of the foundation was to protect not only Namibia’s vulnerable animal species, but to empower its vulnerable people as well.

Guesthouse in Windhoek, the country’s capital. It is thanks to the income generated from tourism that the phenomenal and important conservation work of N/a’an ku sê can be done. The foundation is constantly involved in research, rehabilitation and conservation in the areas where its tourism operations are located.

Utopia Boutique is upmarket and modern, conveniently located in the tranquil suburb of Klein Windhoek, on the banks of the ephemeral Klein Windhoek River. The hotel offers eleven comfortable standard rooms and six luxurious suites situated amidst beautiful lush gardens. It is also perfect to combine business and relaxation. Utopia welcomes the traveller to sit back and relax.

Marlice and Rudie’s story started in the east of Namibia, where they saw the extent to which the area’s San community was left without support. The plight of this community motivated the couple to set up an informal clinic. Later they purchased a farm outside Windhoek which they aptly named N/a’an ku sê, San for “God will protect us.”

The fashionable Taste Academy on the same premises, housed in a beautifully restored German house dating back to 1912, is the perfect venue for meetings with business acquaintances and get-togethers with friends. The excellent cuisine is always tempting the palate to try more. The academy serves delicious dishes created with dedication, detail and perfection that provide wine lovers, foodies and gourmets with an everlasting experience.

The N/a’an ku sê Collection consists of four tourism establishments, scattered around Namibia’s centre and the region near Namib-Naukluft National Park in the south. One of the pillars of N/a’an ku sê tourism is the Utopia Boutique

The Utopia Boutique Guesthouse is the N/a’an ku sê Collection’s urban solution to relaxation in the city. It is an inviting place for the weary traveller to rest, refresh and rejuvenate before the next adventure.

Tel: +264 85 588 7704 or +264 61 211 299 Web: www.utopiaboutique.com

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DISCOVERING ETOSHA

in style

- Luxury travel done right

Paul van Schalkwyk

It starts with the first welcoming drink and warm hand towel handed to you upon arrival and it ends with‌ well, actually it never ends. Luxury travel in and around Etosha will leave a lasting mark. Discovering a world-renowned national park in ultimate luxury is as simple as booking your stay at one or more of the lodges tried and tested by Travel News Namibia. For an entire week, TNN's content creator, Annelien Robberts had only one obligation - to relish every changing hue of the sunset, savour delicious foods devotedly prepared by professional chefs, snap away at playful lion cubs and to keep quiet when tracking rhino on foot.

ONGUMA THE FORT Onguma is a private reserve situated just outside Etosha’s eastern border. The name stems from the local Herero language and aptly means ‘the place you never want to leave’. It truly lives up to its reputation.

After a traditional hand wash with water poured from a silverware jug, followed by the ring of a gong, we enter through the impressive antique wooden doors of the Moroccan-inspired fort. On the other side, the view of Fisher’s Pan immediately draws us into another world that we will become part of for two days. Inside the inner court is a pool we need to cross with three stepping stones jutting out. The pool is decorated with lanterns and bonfires. When we pass those we are led to the lively waterhole where vultures, zebras, impalas, blue wildebeest, warthogs and Damara hornbills abound. A climb up to the top of the fort’s tower leaves us with more breath-taking views.

The eye candy continues when we arrive at our own private Bush Suite, a replica of the main fort. Just like the main building, the interior boasts splashes of bright colours and nothing feels out of place. Each mini-suite is completely private with only the sounds of animals making their way to the waterhole. From the large wooden deck, with sun loungers and an outside shower, the views of the sprawling savannah are uninterrupted.

Before dinner a platter of hors-d’oeuvres is delivered to our doorstep. We pour ourselves a drink from the in-room minibar and enjoy the first pink hues of the sunset appearing on the horizon. A delectable dinner is served on the deck of the main building, and afterwards we delight in the crackling of the fireplace in the comfort of our room – the ultimate luxury in wintertime.

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ONGUMA TENTED CAMP Yet another place that we did not want to leave! Onguma Tented Camp is situated on the same reserve as Onguma The Fort and is the epitome of safari chic. With only seven tents in the camp, privacy is the order of the day. The tents have electricity and are equipped with a few extras like hairdryers and mosquito nets. We hardly notice that we are actually staying in tents.

A herd of impalas at the waterhole forms our welcoming committee. The lodge’s interior is a combination of earthy textures and natural tones of grey, charcoal, black, white and cream. A touch of bright green adds a modern feel to it. The surrounding nature lends itself to a long lazy afternoon spent on the sofas in the lounge, watching the animals go about their daily routine.

When the day heats up, we stroll to the rim-flow pool where we settle down with an ice-cold drink in hand. Two makalani palm trees, characteristic of the north, adorn the waterhole that can be seen from all corners of the camp. Being me, I feel like I need some exercise, so I move back to my patio and grab a good book that I have been meaning to read for weeks. Daily exercise. Tick. Then quickly freshening up in the outside shower and off for dinner.

While we dine in elegance, zebras, warthogs and a variety of birds arrive for their aperitif at the waterhole only 60 metres away.

After dinner we move even closer to the waterhole to sit at the campfire, sip on a nightcap and share stories with other travellers.

And, as it happens, all the other travellers are American and it is the 4th of July, so we toast their Independence Day together. It was a good day, and it becomes even better when three honey badgers make their appearance right at the campfire – a rare and exciting encounter.

With all the under-canvas romance that makes me fall in love with Namibia all over again, I did not even notice that there is free Wi-Fi in the main area. A day without technology is a day well lived. We sleep with our “door” open to make sure we do not miss out on any waterhole action.

VILLA MUSHARA Charming Villa Mushara is situated only 8 km from the Von Lindequist Gate on the eastern boundary of Etosha National Park. The two villas at Mushara Lodge have recently undergone renovations to make them even more fabulous. We get to experience the harsh wilderness of Etosha combined with the exquisite accommodation and cuisine of Villa Mushara. This stark contrast is mirrored in the interior design of the villas through the use of opposing textures.

A sophisticated selection of music ranging from Mozart to Santana sets the mood when we step into our villa – a holiday home of 140 square metres located in the middle of the bush.

The in-room library attracts me like a moth is drawn to light.

Book in one hand and a drink in the other I cuddle up on the comfortable sofa next to the fireplace. Before dinner, a soak in the bathtub is the order of the day, with candles setting the

atmosphere and another drink from the minibar. We come to the conclusion that we cannot leave the fireplace unattended (the best excuse we could come up with), so our dinner is served at the villa.

The following day we visit Etosha on a private game drive – a treat for any wildlife photographer! Or anyone who would like to try their hand at photography or simply for anybody who wants to learn about Namibia’s diverse wildlife. When we return to the villa we are spoilt for choice – should we unwind in the lodge’s swimming pool or in our private plunge pool? From the plunge pool we enjoy the exclusive view of a little waterhole with the pleasure of knowing that impalas and warthogs, amongst other wildlife, come to quench their thirst in our backyard. The outside shower is great to quickly wash off before lounging on the deck and doing some yoga stretches, simply because I feel like I need to make use of all the space.

LITTLE ONGAVA We opt for Little Ongava, located directly outside of Anderson Gate, to explore the south-western part of Etosha. Accommodating a maximum of six guests, Little Ongava embodies the ultimate bush seclusion. The lodge is perched on the crest of a hill with magnificent vistas of the plains stretching as far as the eye can see.

We settle in at one of the three spacious suites, with our own plunge pool, a “sala” and an outdoor shower. Standing on the balcony overlooking the well-frequented waterhole below the camp with no other buildings in sight, I feel utterly surrounded by nature. This is luxury. Wooden walkways connect the suites with the lounge and dining area. And along the way we stop at all the trees with small metal plates to learn both the scientific and the common names. With knowledgeable guides within reach we hardly need the Wi-Fi. After teatime and a good old chat with the friendly staff we leave on our afternoon game drive to explore the reserve. After just a few minutes our guide has thrilling news for us: there is a pride of lions about a 15 minutes’ drive away. That is nothing compared to the distances people travel to catch a glimpse of these majestic creatures in their natural habitat. Although the wildlife is… well, wild, our guide goes the extra mile to ensure that we tick off our desired animal sightings. We hear “white rhino” over the radio and a few minutes later we are treated with the sighting of a mother with her 3-week old calf. If the guide deems the situation safe for both rhinos and guests, a rhino approach is possible – an exhilarating encounter!

On the open deck of our room we dine in style under the glittering African night sky. While we are enjoying our aperitif, elephants decide to join us at the waterhole down below. After dinner, we continue our usual exercise. We light up the fireplace, enjoy a nightcap and reflect on our eventful day. And the pampering continues – a hot water bottle keeps my bed warm while I am brushing my teeth.

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DOLOMITE CAMP Dolomite Camp is one of a handful of camps inside Etosha’s borders, which makes it all the more exclusive. It is located 45 km from Galton Gate in the western part of the park, an area that was restricted for many years. Not to be missed, watching from the dolomite hill, are the sunset as well as the sunrise. Can one ever have enough hands or camera lenses to capture every changing second of it?

A driver fetches us with our luggage at the foot of the dolomite hill and takes us all the way up to our luxury tent at the top from where we admire the endless plains of Etosha. From our private balcony we feel as if we are in the wildlife hotspot of the park.

Rhinos and elephants casually stroll by. Springbok gracefully leap about, and dazzle after dazzle of zebras comes to drink at the nearby waterhole.

I find my happy place at the rim-flow pool, my recommended spot for the most beautiful sunset pictures. I refuse to leave until all the colours dissipate and the landscape completely fades into darkness. This is when the lanterns are lit and the campfire across from the bar is stoked – the ideal post-sunset spot for enjoying a glass of red wine.

How do you know you had another excellent day in Africa when you are lying in your warm bed with a hot water bottle for added comfort? The trumpeting of elephants lulls you to sleep.

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SAFARIHOEK LODGE Safarihoek Lodge offers eight luxury chalets on Etosha Heights, a 60 000 hectare private reserve sharing 70 km of boundary with Etosha. In the morning, while sipping our coffee on a hill near the lodge, the staff surprises us with an indulgent breakfast. And as Mother Nature has surprises of her own, we hear the loud roar of lions nearby. My morning coffee will never taste the same again.

In the late afternoon we walk down to the waterhole where we brush shoulders with the abundant wildlife. When the sky turns indigo and my memory card has run out of space, our guide takes us back to the lodge in a safari vehicle. Upon arrival we receive pink and orange drinks reminiscent of an African sunset, which in turn reminds me of another day well spent. But luckily it is not over yet.

The swimming pool area turns into a romantic candle-lit corner with the campfire right on site providing the necessary heat against the chilly evening air. After indulging in a delicious dinner, we enjoy the campfire with other guests.

Some of the staff members join us, not in uniform but in their traditional wear. They share interesting tales with us, giving depth to hearsay stories about everything, from Namibian cultures to life experiences and the wildlife on the reserve. They also share with us that the airstrip for fly-in tourists was only recently built and its inauguration gave cause for great celebrations.

Amongst all the pampering and luxury one thing ultimately stands out for me: Wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity for the human spirit. My hope is that we never take it for granted and that we will continue doing everything in our power to preserve it. This is also why each lodge is engaged to serve a bigger purpose so that our country, its people and its wildlife, will prosper.

This purpose might include conservation or community, or a combination of the two. Luxury pays necessities. Therefore every guest becomes part of the bigger picture of Namibia and its welfare. It is the best money you will ever spend while simultaneously investing in your own wellbeing. TNN

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OUR ETOSHA RESORTS

SOME OF OUR PRIZED POSSESSIONS

ONKOSHI RESORT

HALALI RESORT

OLIFANTSRUS CAMP

 +264 855 502 342  +264 67 687 362

 +264 67 229 400  +264 67 229 400

 +264 65 685 809  +264 65 685 885

OVERVIEW

OVERVIEW

OVERVIEW

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H

L

The unobstructed panoramic sunrises and sunsets are spectacular sights to behold. At night, the stars fill the vast open African sky, allowing for sensational stargazing opportunities.

Some of the most popular waterholes of the park are located in close proximity to Halali, and the floodlit waterhole at the camp is an attraction to both wildlife and the visitors seeking to spot it.

The guided morning, afternoon, and night game drives arranged at the resort provide flexible opportunities to see the wildlife.

The campsites take a maximum of 8 pax per site. There are braai facilities for campers and flat bases to make fire. The camp opens at sunrise and closes at sunset as per the general park regulations and day visitors are only allowed to use the picnic facilities up until 16h00.

OKAUKUEJO RESORT

DOLOMITE RESORT

 +264 67 229 800  +264 67 229 852

 +264 65 685 119  +264 65 685 116

OVERVIEW

OVERVIEW

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D

ocated in seclusion, on the rim of the majestic Etosha Salt Pan and far away from the public self-drive routes, Onkoshi provides a beautiful escape within the Etosha National Park. The 15 freestanding chalets (30 beds) overlook the vast pan, which is home to a variety of exotic wildlife, including a crowd of pink flamingos and 4 of the big 5 game in the rainy season.

NAMUTONI RESORT  +264 67 229 300  +264 67 229 306 OVERVIEW

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uiLt into an old German Historic Fort built in 1897, Namutoni Resort is the perfect setting for a cultural adventure African savannah. It is located in the eastern part of the Etosha National Park in close proximity to the Fisher’s Pan – a hotspot for birders.

The romantic fort overlooks the flood-lit King Nehale Waterhole from which visitors can enjoy views of wildlife without leaving the resort.

The swimming pool and bar offer moments to relax and socialize.

aLaLi Resort is situated at the base of a dolomite hill, nestled amongst shady Mopane trees in Namibia’s legendary Etosha National Park. The thick vegetation in the area makes it a popular draw to leopards, rhinos and elephants.

kaukuejo , located 17 km from the southern entrance of the Etosha National Park, is famous for its floodlit waterhole, where visitors can observe at close quarters a spectacle of wildlife congregating and interacting.

Accommodation is provided to suit every need, in premier bush chalets overlooking the waterhole; bush chalets and double rooms; or family chalets. Other facilities include a restaurant, bar, shop, swimming pool, kiosk and camping facilities.

ocated in the western part of the Etosha National Park between the Okaukuejo and Dolomite Resorts, Olifantsrus Campsite is a camping-only facility, there are no chalets available here. The facility has 10 campsites with 5 power stands whereby two campsites are sharing at one stand.

oLomite Resort is located in a previously restricted scenic area in the western region of Etosha National Park, rich in biodiversity due to the absence of mainstream tourism. The dolomite formations in the area give the resort its name and provide a lush vista. With no less than 15 waterholes, wildlife sightings are very common around the resort and provide excellent photography opportunities. Black and White Rhino have often been spotted at the Klippan waterhole.

Moreover, the specially arranged game drives bring you to the most exclusive areas of the park, generally only known to conservationists.

BOOK ON THE GO Our app has been reimagined from the ground up so you can get a little more from it. You can now make and pay for your bookings while on the go. View our resorts and camps even when you are offline. NamLeisure Card applications can also be made right from the app. Download it now for your iOS and Android device.  www.nwr.com.na/app

WINDHOEK, NAMIBIA

MICE (WINDHOEK, NAMIBIA)

SWAKOPMUND, NAMIBIA

CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA

 +264 61 285 7200  +264 61 224 900  reservations@nwr.com.na

 +264 61 285 7108/2857167/ 285 7169 / 285 7188  mice@nwr.com.na

 +264 64 402 172  +264 64 402 796  sw.bookings@nwr.com.na

 +27 21 422 3761  +27 21 422 5148

Namibia is a countr y of primeval and unspoilt beauty.

SWA SAFARIS can introduce you to its spectacular variety of landscapes, rich treasures of wildlife and unique flora. Enjoy the hospitality and friendliness of the Namibian people.

L et SWA SAFARIS, one of the most experienced Tour operators in Namibia, that has been in operation since 1954, make your stay in Namibia an unforgettable one.

where your adventure begins... “Rental of specialised 4x4 vehicles in Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, South Africa, Zambia, Malawi and Mozambique�

info@ascocarhire.com

www.ascocarhire.com

S WA S A F A R I S

NAMIBIA

Since 1954 .... your tour operator with experience Tel: + 264-61-221193 / 237567, Fax: + 264-61-225387 PO Box 20373, 43 Independence Avenue, Windhoek, Namibia swasaf@swasafaris.com.na - www.swasafaris.com - www.swasafaris.de

savannah

76 + 78 Geverstreet (Dr. Kwame Nkrumah), Ludwigsdorf, Klein Windhoek NAMIBIA P: +264 61 25 88 67 | P: +264 81 127 2037 E: belvedere@afol.com.na | W: www.belvedere-boutiquehotel.com

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A delightful setting and peaceful bush ambience.

No matter the occasion, River Crossing Lodge has something special to offer. +264 61 40 1494 | reservations@rivercrossing.com.na | www.rivercrossing.com.na

22 Heinitzburg Street, Windhoek | +264 61 249 597 heinitzburg@heinitzburg.com | www.heinitzburg.com

EXPLORE NAMIBIA WITH

Tel: +264 61 223 269 Cell: +264 81 127 2222 E-mail: odyssey@iway.na Website: www.odysseycarhire.com

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Tel.: +264 61 256323 | A/H: +264 81 162 5791 Mail: info@caprivicarhire.com | Web:www.caprivicarhire.com

+264 61 371 950 reser vations@hotelthule.com www.hotelthule.com

Where reality and imagination meets

Bismark St. 1, Swakopmund, Namibia Tel: +264 64 400 331 • Fax: +264 64 405 850 reservations@schweizerhaus.net • www.schweizerhaus.net

Experience with us the Beauty of Namibia, Wilderness of Botswana and Secrets of Zimbabwe

What makes us unique?

+264 (0)64 203496 +264 81 246 0034 info@bociansafaris.com www.namibia.com.pl Sam Nuyoma Avenue 11, Walvis Bay

• Personal service • One stop – shop (Accommodation, vehicle hire and activity bookings) • Specialize both in self –drive & guided Safaris • Cater for all: from family travel, filming crew, bird watchers etc.

• Taste of African original • No hidden costs

Scheduled Guided Tours / Fly-in Safaris A scheduled approach, without compromising on a unique personal experience Private Guided Tours: An expertly planned itinerary to explore our country Add on Packages An easy, exciting and trouble-free way of filling extra days prior to or after a tour Self-Drive Travel On the road to discover Namibia’s many secrets Special Interest For travellers looking for a more focused itinerary centred around a unique passion or interest Our Fleet We own and operate our own fleet of vehicles designed and custom built to suit the Namibian road conditions!

Linger Longer: Stay for 3 nights, pay for 2

Tel: +264 (0)61 275 300 | Fax: +264 (0)61 263 417 E-mail: info@sense-of-africa.com.na Web: www.senseofafrica.com/namibia

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06/07/2018 12:55:37 PM

THIS IS MY NAMIBIA

By Conrad Brain

W

ithout a single word that we know or express, there has been – almost without exception – an exchange of contact or expression between myself and the hundreds of wild animals I have worked with. I have learnt to recognise the significance of the twitch of an ear, the lifting of a lip or the swing of a tail, and that just like me, the animals are expressing some emotion: tension, excitement, fear, exhilaration or confusion. It is a subtle conveyance of communication and the more you interact, the more apparent it becomes.

It has been through the privilege of working with thousands of wild animals in Namibia that I have gained a new form of understanding of our fellow inhabitants, animals of all sizes and shapes, and in some the subtleness can even be replaced by a direct emotional contact that is clear for all to see. Elephants are particularly good at this honest and direct approach to us, but primates, birds and even animals that want to eat you, periodically exchange a look or a touch that goes beyond just the physical contact. Sometimes in a crazy swirl of excitement and disturbance, of machinery, helicopters and aircraft, of humans shouting and distressed calls, it becomes difficult to imagine that there is some form of mutual appreciation between man and beast, but almost without fail, at the

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end of the day, with a calm silence that eclipses the day of clatter, we all seem to appreciate the peace that comes along with the hope of a black night and a new day. This is my Namibia.

But as humans we like to interact with humans as well. It is probably through working with animals so much that I prefer to interact with humans in a wild environment. For a week I walked with my Himba friend Jackson for five-and-a-half hours every day in the Hartmann’s Valley and although our verbal communication in the form of language was limited, we understood each other as if we had been brothers. It was not so much the personal interaction that united us, but it was what we saw as we walked that provided the nucleus of our conversations. Beetle tracks across the dunes, a strange lizard track that we followed because neither of us could recognise it – only to find that it was a sand-diving meroles that had lost a leg. We laughed at the antics of some baboons on the banks of the Kunene River, only to see that for them it was no laughing matter as a caracal was trying to catch one of them. There were also some tracks of a goat that seemed to be lost in the dunes. For hours we followed the goat tracks far into the dune field and then, to my surprise, but not Jackson’s, we saw the tracks of two children who

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apparently were also following the goat. In blazing desert conditions near midday we intercepted the children, barefoot on hot sand, and the goat. The children were all smiles and laughter, didn’t want any of our water and continued on their way back to their village, a walk of at least an hour and a half away.

Elephant tracks from the air look like beetle tracks on the dunes. Finding desert elephants from an aircraft often involves systematically following tracks across dunes and plains that you would think elephants would never cross. Yet we find them, in the dunes, on top of desert mountains and in some terrain so inhospitable that only your photos can convince others that they are there.

The elephant comeback in northwestern Namibia is a remarkable feat of community interaction and conservation, as well as real understanding of the value of wildlife in our desert areas. It is also a tribute to the behavioural adaptation of the elephants themselves. Although living with wildlife comes at a cost to both man and animal, it is the development of this approach that we see in Namibia, of mutual acceptance, of a budding harmony between man and his environment, of a potentially more expressive concept of understanding each other: That makes me feel at home in our Namibia. TNN

www.wolwedans.com

Wolwedans is more than a mere collection of camps. It’s a collection of dreams. Its ethos lies in setting an example in sustainability and continually fulfilling its commitment to the conservation of the NamibRand Nature Reserve.

...simply out of this world

Photo © Gerhard Thirion

Namibia. Wild at heart.

An untamed wilderness that will always leave you spoilt for choice.

Mother Nature is waiting for you.

NAMIBIA – Head office C/O Haddy & Sam Nujoma Drive Private Bag 13244, Windhoek Tel: +264 61 290 6000 Fax: +264 61 25 4848 Email: info@namibiatourism.com.na www.namibiatourism.com.na

GERMANY Schillerstrasse 42 – 44, D – 60313 Frankfurt am Main, Tel: +49 69 1337 360 Fax: +49 69 1337 3615 Email: info@namibia-tourism.com www.namibia-tourism.com

SOUTH AFRICA Cape Town Ground floor, The Pinnacle Burg Street, P O. Box 739 Tel: +27 21 422 3298 Fax: +27 21 422 5132 Email: namibia@saol.com

www.namibiatourism.com.na