Travel in Taiwan (No.94 2019 7/8 )

2019

JUL & AUG

No.

94

SCENIC ROUTES

TO THE HEART OF NANTOU COUNTY

N I K G I H in

Taiwan

The Best Mountain Areas Around the Island

FAMILY FUN

A NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM/AQUARIUM

FOLK EXPERIENCE

TEMPLE FESTIVALS AND THE EIGHT GENERALS

ISLAND FOODS

DELICIOUS HOT-SPRING CUISINE IN CENTRAL TAIWAN

Android

iOS

The Definition of a Truly Enjoyable Stay Filled With Many Special Moments The Beacon Hotel is situated right in the heart of the varied, youthful, and lively Fengjia shopping area. It displays the free and informal nature of Fengjia old town and retains the initial affection that cannot be erased by the passage of time of those who love the area.

Cast away the thought of you just passing through. Instead, wander around the lanes and alleys of Fengjia for some unforgettable travel memories.

Add: No. 427, Fuxing Rd., Xitun Dist., Taichung City 407, Taiwan (R.O.C.)台中市西屯區福星路427號

Tel: 886-4-2451-5828

Fax: 886-4-3504-5205

http: //www.beacon-hotel.com.tw

Brisk Enjoy Amuse Casual Original Natural

PUBL ISHER 'S NOTE

Welcome to Taiwan!

Dear Traveler, The summer vacation season has arrived, and this land’s highways and byways are busy with happy folk headed off on explorations of every cultural and scenic nook and cranny. In this issue of Travel in Taiwan we present choice ideas on what you can get up to while here with us, bringing you up to the highest peaks, down to shores of the surrounding sea, and to points in between.

Our Feature is spent in the higher altitudes. We take you hiking all over Ilha Formosa, the “Beautiful Island.” Mountainous Taiwan offers hikers an attractive network of high-elevation national scenic areas, parks, and forest recreation areas, easy to access via the first-rate highway and public-transport systems. There are countless well-marked hiking trails, from short to long and from easy to physically demanding.

You may have camped in the mountains before, but have you ever “camped out” in a museum?

Sleep with the belugas and other marine-animal stars at the National Museum of Marine Biology & Aquarium in southern Taiwan’s Kenting National Park by joining its popular sleepover program, which also includes guided tours of the museum and adjacent coastline, plus sea kayaking and DIY activities. Learn more in our Family Fun section.

Our Small-Town Charm pages are spent in the rural townships of Gongguan and Yuanli, in Miaoli County. These are two of the destinations of unique character being highlighted by the Taiwan Tourism Bureau in this year’s Taiwan Small Town Ramble campaign. In Treasure Island Foods, it’s all about the island’s unique hot-spring cuisine. We report on two Taiwan Top Ten Hot Springs award winners. These are hotels in the resorts of Tai’an and Guguan, located in mountain valleys of Miaoli County and Taichung City, respectively. We travel a bit further south in Scenic Routes, spending time in mountainous, landlocked Nantou County, traveling the highways of Caotun and Puli townships.

Delightful Folk Experiences takes you again to the deep south, to Kaohsiung’s rural Neimen Township, providing background on the traditional temple-celebration performance troupes, known as the Eight Generals, and the annual Kaohsiung Neimen Song Jiang Battle Ritual competition.

Taiwan’s main island is left behind in Harbors and Beyond for an excursion to the Penghu archipelago, a popular offshore-island destination for cruise liners, providing an overview of must-see attractions for all visitors to this laid-back island idyll.

Enjoy the summertime in Taiwan!

JOE Y. CHOU PH.D. DIRECTOR GENERAL TOURISM BUREAU, MOTC, R.O.C. TR AVEL IN TAIWAN

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Travel in

Taiwan 2019 JULY/AUGUST

台 灣 觀 光 雙 月刊 Travel in Taiwan The Official Bimonthly English Magazine of the Taiwan Tourism Bureau (Advertisement) July/August, 2019 Tourism Bureau, MOTC First published Jan./Feb. 2004 ISSN: 18177964 GPN: 2009305475 Price: NT$200

中華郵政台北雜字第1286號執照登記為雜誌交寄

Copyright @ 2019 Tourism Bureau. All rights reserved.

Reproduction in any form without written permission is prohibited.

ON THE COVER Hiking in Taroko Gorge (photo by Chen Cheng-kuo)

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PUBLISHER Joe Y. Chou EDITING CONSULTANT T. C. Chou PUBLISHING ORGANIZATION TAIWAN TOURISM BUREAU, MINISTRY OF TRANSPORTATION AND COMMUNICATIONS CONTACT International Division, Taiwan Tourism Bureau Add: 9F, 290 Zhongxiao E. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City, 10694, TAIWAN Tel: 886-2-2349-1500 Fax: 886-2-2771-7036 E-mail: tbroc@tbroc.gov.tw Website: http://taiwan.net.tw PRODUCER Vision Creative Marketing & Media Co. ADDRESS 1F, No. 5, Aly. 20, Ln. 265, Sec. 4, Xinyi Rd., Taipei City 10681, Taiwan TEL: 886-2-2325-2323 Fax: 886-2-2701-5531 E-MAIL: editor@v-media.com.tw GENERAL MANAGER David Hu EDITOR IN CHIEF Johannes Twellmann ENGLISH EDITOR Rick Charette DIRECTOR OF PLANNING & EDITING DEPT Joe Lee MANAGING EDITOR Krista Yang EDITORS Nickey Liu, Yvette Chan CONTRIBUTORS Rick Charette, Han Cheung, Steven Crook, Mark Caltonhill PHOTOGRAPHERS Chen Cheng-kuo, Maggie Song, Ray Chang, Louis Liu DESIGNERS Ian Tsai , Maggie Song, Nell Huang ADMINISTRATIVE DEPT Lily Wan, Hui-chun Tsai, Nai-jen Liu, Xiou Mieng Jiang, Sophie Chen

This magazine is printed on FSC TM COC certified paper.

Any product with the FSC TM logo on it comes from a forest that has been responsibly maintained and harvested in a sustainable manner.

MAGAZINE IS SOLD AT: 1. Wu-Nan Culture Plaza, No. 6, Zhongshan Rd., Central Dist., Taichung City 40043 886-4-2226-0330 http://www.wunanbooks.com.tw/ 2. National Bookstore, 1F., No. 209, Songjiang Rd., Zhongshan Dist., Taipei City 10485 886-2-2518-0207 http://www.govbooks.com.tw/ WHERE YOU CAN PICK UP A COPY OF TRAVEL IN TAIWAN ABROAD Offices of the Taiwan Tourism Bureau in Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Seoul, San Francisco, New York, Los Angeles, and Frankfurt. Taiwan Representative Offices; Overseas Offices of the Ministry of Economic Affairs; Overseas Offices of the Central News Agency; onboard China Airlines, EVA Air, and other selected international airways; selected travel agencies in Asia, North America, and Europe; and other organizations.

IN TAIWAN Tourism Bureau Visitor Center; Tourism Bureau; Taiwan Visitors Association; foreign representative offices in Taiwan; Tourism Bureau service counters at Taiwan Taoyuan Int’l Airport and Kaohsiung Int’l Airport; major tourist hotels; Taipei World Trade Center; VIP lounges of international airlines; major tourist spots in Taipei; visitor centers of cities and counties around Taiwan; offices of national scenic area administrations; public libraries ONLINE Read Travel in Taiwan online at https://issuu.com/ travelintaiwan. You can also download the Travel in Taiwan app for iOS and Android mobile devices at https://tosto.re/ travelintaiwan.

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This magazine was printed with soy ink. Soy ink is said to be more environmentally friendly than petroleum-based ink and to make it easier to recycle paper.

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Contents 34

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24

HIKING OVER THE ILHA FORMOSA

A NIGHT AT THE AQUARIUM

FEATURE

FAMILY FUN

Into the High Mountains of the “Beautiful Island”

A Southern Taiwan Sleepover with Belugas and Other Sea Creatures

24

01

PUBLISHER'S NOTE

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34

A Drive to the Heart of Taiwan

TEMPLE CELEBRATIONS

SCENIC ROUTES DELIGHTFUL FOLK 99 PEAKS & PULI PAPER EXPERIENCE

04

TAIWAN TOURISM EVENTS

Getting to Know the Eight Generals and the Neimen Song Jiang Battle Ritual

06

CONVENIENT TRAVEL

07

40

TRAVEL NEWS

SMALL-TOWN CHARM

08

CULTURAL LANDSCAPES – RICH AND COLORFUL Small and “Slow” Towns in Miaoli County: Gongguan and Yuanli

CULTURE AND ART 40

44

TREASURE ISLAND FOODS

48

HARBORS AND BEYOND

GUGUAN AND TAI’AN

MAGONG HARBOR

Hot-Spring Soaking and Fine Dining in Central Taiwan

Must-Visit Spots on Penghu’s Islands

50

SMART TRAVEL MODERN AND SMART Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport

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TA I WA N TOURISM E V ENTS

EXCITING EVENTS IN THE LATE SUMMER AND EARLY AUTUMN

August | October

Taiwan Tourism Events Calendar Website

Cycling, Puppet Theater, Fine Arts, and Religious Celebrations

VENUES AROUND TAIWAN Until December 31

TAIWAN CYCLING FESTIVAL 台灣 騎 跡

The Taiwan Cycling Festival is a major annual event, lasting several months and combining a wide range of bicycling-related activities around Taiwan. Since the festival is about riding, most events are either leisure or competitive one-day or multiple-day bike rides. One of the top events is the Taiwan KOM Challenge, during which invited professional riders tackle a challenging route that takes them from the beach at Qixingtan in Hualien up to the Wuling Pass, the highest highway point on the island, at 3,275 meters above sea level. Outside this invitational race, there are many other events for leisure riders to take part in. Find more information on the festival’s website.

YUNLIN COUNTY October

YUNLIN INTERNATIONAL PUPPET ARTS FESTIVAL 雲 林 國 際 偶戲 節

While puppet theater is a form of entertainment mainly targeted at children, this annual cultural festival in central Taiwan is fun for the whole family. Kids laugh and learn, and adults are entertained as well. There are plenty of hands-on oppor tunities, and rich exposure to both Taiwan traditions and those of foreign cultures.

Different forms of puppet shows are featured, with talented local and international troupes performing in front of spectators both young and young at heart.

2018puppet.yunlin.gov.tw

taiwanbike.tw

CHIAYI COUNTY October 1~31

HUALIEN COUNTY August~ September

NPM ASIAN ART FESTIVAL

HUALIEN DAYLILY BLOOMING SEASON

Two years ago the Southern Branch of the National Palace Museum, located in Chiayi County, launched the first NPM Asian Art Festival, a month-long happening that showcases a different country each year.

After shining a spotlight on the art of India in the first edition, and of Singapore in 2018, this year will be all about Thailand. Exhibitions, stage performances, lectures, and guided tours will bedazzle visitors with the wonderful cultural wonders that Thailand has to offer.

Among the most enchanting scenes of the East Rift Valley in eastern Taiwan are the fields of blooming daylilies in late summer/early autumn. There are two main areas where you can take in the floral beauty: Mt. Chike in Yuli Township and Sixty Stone Mountain in Fuli Township. Both mountain areas present visitors with amazing vistas, the daylilies adding orange hues to the mountain slopes. Access to both locations is via steep and narrow roads; if you don’t have your own means of transport, note that shuttle-bus services are offered from central Yuli and Fuli during the blooming season.

故 宮亞 洲 藝 術 節

south.npm.gov.tw

花 蓮金 針花 季

www.erv-nsa.gov.tw (East Rift Valley National Scenic Area)

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J ULY-SEP TEMBER

KEELUNG CITY

PINGTUNG COUNTY

August 1 ~ 30

August 15~16

KEELUNG MID-SUMMER GHOST FESTIVAL

HENGCHUN POLE CLIMB FESTIVAL

This event, lasting a full month, is one of Taiwan’s major festivals. It takes place during the 7th lunar month, in Taiwan referred to as “Ghost Month.” According to folk belief, this is the time of year when the gates separating the realms of the living and the dead open and ghosts return to wander the earth. In order to appease these wandering souls, lavish offerings are made in front of temples in Keelung and a plethora of rituals and ceremonies is celebrated. Among the numerous highlights of the festival are the Door-Opening Ceremony at Laodagong Temple on Day 1 and the Water Lantern Parade and Releasing of Water Lantern on Day 14 of the lunar month.

Like the Keelung Mid-Summer Ghost Festival, this traditional event, which takes place in the southern Taiwan town of Hengchun in Pingtung County, is part of the annual Ghost Month activities.

According to legend, the idea of climbing greasy poles came about in the late 19 th century when the rich people of town thought about ways to avoid fights and injuries among the poor people who received their offerings. Today, climbing the poles is all about pride and team spirit, and the activity has become a great spectator event, drawing thousands of onlookers each year.

雞 籠中元 祭

恆春古城 國 際 豎 孤棚 觀 光 文化 活動

www.hengchuen.gov.tw/English/

www.klcg.gov.tw

Wander Around Yongkang Shopping Area and Enjoy a Splendid Time in the City!

Located on Jinshan South Road, Citizen Hotel is a warm and welcoming place to stay, just a short walk of four minutes away from Yongkang Street. Close by are Taipei’s most famous restaurant, Din Tai Fung, and the mango ice shops on Yongkang Street. The newly renovated hotel has 52 guestrooms, appointed in various styles. Elegantly decorated, this modern and comfortable residence offers a quiet retreat, and easy access to the cultural air of Yongkang shopping district famous for its distinguished restaurants. Citizen Hotel is a tranquil place where business travelers may relax after a hard day’s work and tourists can rest up. Apart from a refined buffet breakfast the hotel also has free WiFi broadband Internet, convenient for tourists wishing to upload their amazing travel images and business travelers to stay connected for work.

Sec. 1 , Jinsh an S. Rd.

Sec. 2, Ren’ai Rd.

Citizen Hotel

AD

Se c. 2 ,

Xin yi R d.

MRT Dongmen Station (Exit 1)

Din Tai Fung Citizen Hotel ( 星辰大飯店 ) Add: No. 80, Sec. 1, Jinshan S. Rd., Zhongzheng District, Taipei City ( 台北市中正區金山南路一段 80 號 ) Tel: (02) 2397-1377 Fax: (02) 2394-8726 Website: www.taipei-citizen-hotel.com.tw

CON V ENIENT TR AV EL

SUMMER SUN AND SANDY BEACHES

Taiwan Tour Bus website

TE X T & PHOTOS V I S ION

Tour Bus Sightseeing on the Hengchun Peninsula

When looking at a map of the tobaccoleaf-shaped island of Taiwan, you’ll see the Hengchun Peninsula (the stem of the leaf) at its far-south end. Home of the Kenting National Park, this is the island’s popular tropical playground, best known for its finesand beaches, but it’s also worth a visit for a host of other tourist attractions.

M

ost tourists visiting Taiwan’s southernmost tip want to spend at least a couple of days in the national park, relaxing by the sea and exploring the peninsula’s ecology-rich hinterland. But if you are pressed for time and just want to take in the major spots, you can sign up for the Hengchun Peninsula (One-Day Tour) outing, a whirlwind bus tour available on the Taiwan Tour Bus service website, www. taiwantourbus.com.tw. This service, provided by the Taiwan Tourism Bureau in cooperation with 21 local travel agencies, offers bus tours to popular tourist destinations around the island.

After starting your bus journey at the small town of Hengchun on the peninsula’s west side, you will first travel along a quiet country road to the east side. Photo ops await at the scenic Gangkou Suspension Bridge, spanning a river just inland from the coast, from where you’ll get a look at the grand Pacific Ocean. Further down the coast you’ll make a stop at the often windswept Longpan Park, an open area with grassy sections, dramatic cliff sections of upraised coral, and much windblown sand. From the park, you can enjoy marvelous panoramic views of the coastline and the azure waters of the ocean.

The southernmost point of mainland Taiwan will be your next hopping-off stop. From where the bus stops it will be just a few hundred meters on foot along a path lined with lush tropical vegetation to a tiny platform with a small monument. You look out over a stretch of exposed dark-brown coral rock fronting the sea. A short distance northwest of this spot is the well-known, snow-white Eluanbi Lighthouse, situated in a spacious park area that is a popular location for picnics.

Shadao (lit. Sand Island), the next stop on this quick tour of Taiwan’s southernmost coastline, is in fact not an island but a stretch of fine-sand beach. Said to have the island’s purest shell sand, the beach is protected and off-limits to visitors. There is, however, a small exhibition hall where you can educate yourself on the site’s geology, and from a small terrace outside the hall you can take a good look at the beach.

PINGTUNG TRAVEL AGENCY ( 屏東旅行社�����司 ) www.fun2tw.com (08) 888-2900 No. 30, Zhongzheng Rd., Hengchun Township, Pingtung County ( 屏東縣恆春鎮中正路 30 號 )

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Heading a bit further west, you’ll pass the prominent Chuanfan Rock, said to resemble the sail of a ship or, in the eyes of some, the head of the late U.S. president Nixon. You’ll also pass the beach-resort town of Kending and a number of popular beaches, notably Xiaowan and Nanwan. Next on the itinerary is either a visit to the National Museum of Marine Biology and Aquarium (see article on page 24) or a glass-bottom boat cruise.

The trip’s final stops are in the southwestern part of the Hengchun Peninsula. After checking out the golden-sand beach at Baisha Bay, and the peculiar rock formations in Maobitou Park, the final highlight will be a romantic (weather permitting) sunset viewed from an elevated observation platform at Guanshan.

Baisha Bay Beach

Longpan Park

Southernmost Point of Taiwan

Hengchun Peninsula (One-Day Tour) 恆春半島全島旅遊線一日遊 ( 海生館線 ) Pick-up at Hengchun Town ( 恆 春 鎮 ) Gangkou Suspension Bridge Longpan Park ( 龍 磐 公 園 ; 20 mins) ( 港 口 吊 橋 ; 20 mins) Eluanbi ( 鵝 Southernmost Point of Taiwan ( 台 灣 最 南 點 ; 40 mins) Shadao ( 砂 島 ; 20 mins) Chuanfan Rock ( 船 帆 石 ; 鑾 鼻 ; 1 hr) lunch (1.5 hrs) A. National Museum of Marine Biology 20 mins) and Aquarium ( 海生館 ; 2.5hrs) or B. Glass-bottom boat cruise (1 hr) Maobitou ( 貓鼻頭 ; 20 mins) Baisha Bay ( 白沙灣 ; 1 hr, 15 mins) sunset at Guanshan ( 關 山 夕 照 ; 20 mins) Return to Hengchun Town (return time depends on time of sunset)

RELATED WEBSITE Kenting National Park: www.ktnp.gov.tw

TR AV EL NE WS

NEWS & Events around Taiwan

Photo by Peggy Chiang

Photo by Peggy Chiang

TAIWAN SELECTED AS ECO DESTINATION OF THE YEAR

TAIWAN RANKS HIGH ON GLOBAL MUSLIM TRAVEL INDEX 2019

Taiwan took part in the Asia Dive Expo (ADEX), the largest and longest-running dive show in Asia, for the first time this year, and was selected as the 2019 Eco Destination of the Year. According to the organizer, Taiwan was chosen to honor its longtime dedication to protection of the environment and ecosystem preservation. In addition, Trust Lin, Director of the Singapore Office of the Taiwan Visitor Association (TVA), won the ADEX Award for Outstanding Contribution to Dive Tourism, for his efforts in promoting sustainable marine tourism while he was previously stationed on Taiwan's East Coast. Taiwan's efforts in preserving and protecting its coastal and marine environments in recent years have included conducting ecological surveys, clean-ups of sea areas and beaches, planting of trees along the coast, protection of crab species, and reduction of carbon emissions and plastic waste. Taiwan has numerous excellent dive locations, including around Green Island and Orchid Island, both off the southeast coast of the main island.

In recent years, government and private concerns in Taiwan have been very active in creating an even more Muslim-friendly environment. Restaurants serving Halal food, hotels providing prayer rooms, websites listing Muslimfriendly businesses, etc., can now be easily found around the island/online.

Muslim organizations abroad have taken notice, and a high ranking on the Global Muslim Travel Index is a clear sign that Taiwan is on the right track when it comes to attracting more visitors from Muslim countries, especially those in Southeast Asia. Among non-OIC (Organization of Islamic Cooperation) countries listed in the 2019 index, Taiwan is ranked in third place (together with the UK and Japan). It scores especially high in the categories Safety, (lack of) Faith Restrictions, and Transport Infrastructure.

The index can be downloaded from: www.crescentrating.com.

w21xh13.8cm

FREE LUGGAGE DELIVERY Starting May 1st 2019, get free luggage delivery to a Taoyuan hotel from the Taoyuan International Airport. Just book a room at a TAOYUAN HOTEL. Let us take the load off, while you enjoy Taoyuan.

How to apply: Step Scan QRcode and book a TAOYUAN HOTEL. 1 Step Make an online reservation for free luggage delivery.

2 Step Bring your barcode, reservation record, and check the luggage at 3 Taiwan Pelican Express counter at Terminal 1 or 2.

Step One passenger can only enjoy one piece of luggage free of charge.

4

Motel

Hotel Homestay

Step Make sure to check your luggage before 14:00, luggage will arrive 5 at your hotel by 19:00 on the same day.

廣告

CULTURE A ND A R T

CULTURE Concerts, Exhibitions, and Happenings

August 1 ~ 4; 9 ~ 11

Until September 15

ST. PETERSBURG BALLET THEATRE: LA BAYADERE/SWAN LAKE

JURASSIC DINOSAUR PARK

Watching a performance by the St. Petersburg Ballet Theatre is always a treat for lovers of the ballet. For the first time this troupe, with ballerina Irina Kolesnikova in the principal role, will present La Bayadère (“The Temple Dancer”), a Russian ballet classic, in Taiwan.

The ballet is a tragic love story involving a temple dancer and a warrior at the royal court in India.

After running rampant in Kaohsiung and Taipei last year and earlier this year, respectively, the dinosaurs have stampeded into Taichung!

This is a great-fun exhibition for young and old. The large dinosaur models move about as visitors roll by on mini-trains. You’ll also have the chance to engage in many exciting dinosaur interactions, including riding smaller dinosaurs – safely – rodeo-style!

聖彼得 堡芭 蕾舞團 : 天 鵝湖

National Theater [Taipei City] , National Taichung Theater [Taichung City] npac-ntch.org/en/, en.npac-ntt.org

Until September 1

侏儸紀恐龍樂園

Cultural Heritage Park, Ministry of Culture [Taichung City] tccip.boch.gov.tw

Until September 1

IN LOVE WITH ANTARCTICA: HIROSHI IKEDA PHOTOGRAPHY EXHIBITION SUNSHOWER

愛 戀 南極 : 池田宏 攝 影展

太陽雨

Contemporar y ar t from Southeast Asia is highlighted in this exhibition. The selected works, showcasing 47 artists from the 10 ASEAN countries, have been chosen from the collections of the Mori Art Museum and Fukuoka Asian Art Museum in Japan. They reflect the complexities of the ethnic, political, economic, cultural, and historical changes of the region. The exhibition includes a wide variety of creations, including painting, installation art, photography, batik, and multimedia works.

Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts [Kaohsiung City] www.kmfa.gov.tw

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It is safe to say that Japanese photographer Hiroshi Ikeda has a deep affection for the Earth’s southernmost continent. Now 84 years old, he has made the trip to the inhospitable environment of Antartica 24 times, and he has brought back truly amazing images of ice, snow, water, and penguins aplenty. On display in this exhibition are 71 framed photographs and two contextual maps showing the beauty of Antarctica and its polar inhabitants.

National Museum of Natural Science [Taichung City] www.nmns.edu.tw

CULTURE A ND A R T

Until September 25

NATIONAL PALACE MUSEUM ZOO 故 宮動 物 園

For most children, visiting a museum such as the National Palace Museum can be a tedous affair – unless cute animals are involved!

This exhibition has been aimed at the very young visitor, with paintings depicting animals such as lions, tigers, giraffes, and koi fish specially selected. To help kids recognize the animals seen in the paintings, photographs are placed beside the artworks. Easy-to-understand introductions further make learning about the precious art of ancient China easier for little visitors.

National Palace Museum [Taipei City] www.npm.gov.tw

Until September 15

JIN YONG SPECIAL EXHIBITION 金庸 武俠－華山 論 劍

Late Chinese wuxia (“mar tial ar ts and chivalr y”) novel author Jin Yong was Hong Kong’s most famous writer, and remains a household name in the global Chinese community. A staggering 100 million-plus copies of his 15 works, written between 1955 and 1972, have been sold, making him the bestselling Chineselanguage author. For fans of Jin Yong’s martial-arts stories, the name of this exhibition’s venue, Huashan 1914 Creative Park, has special significance, since Huashan (Mt. Hua) in mainland China’s Shaanxi Province was the base of the fictional Mount Hua Sect that appeared in three of Jin Yong’s novels.

Huashan 1914 Creative Park [Taipei City] http://uevent.udnfunlife.com

Until September 15

CAT ART BY SHU YAMAMOTO 貓 •美 術 館 – 世界 名畫全面喵化

Let’s have a look at Mona Cat, the famous painting

by Meownardo da Vinci…. Japanese ar tist Shu Yamamoto loves cats, so much in fact that he has painted them on canvas hundreds of times. It all started a decade ago when the retired resident of Utah cleaned his house and stumbled across an art piece by his son, a recreation of a Van Gogh selfportrait with the artist’s face replaced with the head of a cat. Yamamoto loved the idea so much that he began recreating other famous paintings on his own, replacing the original subjects with cats and giving his works cat’chy names. The paintings are a whole lot of fun, for lovers of cats, of art, and of cats in art.

Taipei Expo Park Pavilion of New Fashion [Taipei City] www.facebook.com/meowseumofart

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FE AT U R E / HIK ING IN TA I WA N

N I K G I H Over the

Ilha Formosa INTO THE HIGH MOUNTAINS OF THE “BEAUTIFUL ISL AND” TE X T RICK CH A RE T TE

Hiking in the Yushan National Park

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PHOTOS ICE Y T S UI , V I S ION

FE AT U R E / HIK ING IN TA I WA N

The defining geological characteristic of the island of Taiwan is its towering mountain ranges, born of the timeless wrestling of two tectonic plates. Over 200 peaks soar past 3,000 meters.

Travelers with a love of the outdoors enjoy an almost endless selection of well-marked hiking trails, from short to long and from easy to physically demanding. The island’s elite publictransportation network makes access far easier than in most other lands. Many trailheads in even the highest mountain areas, such as Yushan (Mt. Jade) and Hehuanshan (Mt. Hehuan), can be readily reached by bus from the coastal flatlands.

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FE AT U R E / HIK ING IN TA I WA N

Y

ou’ll also be tickled to know there are many easy and moderate hike options even up among the higher peaks.

Most trailheads are found within, or just outside the boundaries of, Taiwan’s dense web of government-run national scenic areas, national parks, and national forest recreation areas. What this means in terms of creature comforts is that before and/or after the biggest and most demanding hikes, should you choose to take on such missions, you’ll be able to treat yourself to the joys of quality hotels, inns, B&Bs, and hot-spring spas. Of course, roughing-it camping locations will also be readily available.

Another key element ensuring premium travel experiences is, as mentioned above, the first-rate public-transportation network. The domestic air, high-speed rail, regular rail, metro, and bus services weave a latticework that blankets the island. From whichever flatland city your adventure is launched, the network can almost assuredly get you to your high-mountain trailhead in no more than half a day if desired, and at a cost significantly lower than in most developed countries.

Following, we’ll introduce five different high-mountain regions for your consideration. Accompanying us on the journey will be a special expert guest, Mr. Stuart Dawson. Stuart, who hails from England’s Newcastle, is one of Taiwan’s most experienced expatriate high-mountain hikers. And here’s another fact to prove his bona fides – in his 14 years in Taiwan he has summited Xueshan (Snow Mountain), his favorite hike, 47 times.

Enjoying the great outdoors

Yushan + Alishan

Yushan (Mt. Jade) is Taiwan’s highest mountain, and one of its most iconic images. It is, says Dawson, “a must-hike for any mountaineer visiting Taiwan.”

I t s m a i n p e a k s o a r s 3 , 9 52 m e t e r s a b ove s e a le ve l. T he 11-p e a k m a s si f is t he gemstone of Yu sha n Nat iona l Park (www.ysnp.gov.tw), located in the mountains east of the cit y of Chiayi, which sits on the west-central region’s Jianan Plain.

Yu s h a n i s t h e “ s t a r o f i t s o w n mountain range, the Yushan Mountain R a nge,” say s Daw son, a nd t he Ma in Pea k is genera lly tack led in t wo days from t he nationa l pa rk tra ilhead, though determined hikers can do it in one. Two-day hikers spend t he night in the Pa iy un L odge, situated about

FE AT U R E / HIK ING IN TA I WA N

Alishan, ''sea of clouds''

four-fifths of the way along the ascent.

A very early rise the next morn enables sunrise-viewing from the Main Pea k, followed by a hike back the same way.

T hose pla n n i ng a si ng le- d ay a sc ent, advises Dawson, should note that the park rule is that they must reach the Paiyun Lodge point before 10am and set off again by 11.

The “real hiking,” he states, begins above the lodge, with steep and “seemingly never-ending” switchbacks. The solid rock below one’s feet becomes loose scree. Rich reward awaits, however, after the tree line is passed, revealing spectacular views of surrounding mountain titans seen from above, not below.

Located west of the nationa l park at a lower ele vat ion, a lon g t he Ne w

Central Cross-Island Highway (Provincial H i g h w a y N o . 18 ) , i s t h e A l i s h a n National Scenic Area (www.ali-nsa.net), with the tourist-heavy Alishan National Forest Recreation Area at its heart. This region proffers a web of comparatively ea sy trails, ranging from short, easygrade walking trails to longer, moderately challenging hiking trails.

Like Taiwan’s other national forest recreation areas, the site on Alishan was originally opened as a logging district by the Japanese when they controlled Ta i w a n f rom 1895~19 45, to e x t r a c t t he c oveted c ed a r, c y pre s s, etc . T he famed scenic loop trail in the core area (elevation about 2 ,20 0m), which ha s Alishan’s key concentration of eateries, a c c om mo d a t ion s , a nd ot he r tou r i s t

facilities, tends to get busy with daytrippers after about 9:30am.

More cha llenging trek s abound in the surrounding nationa l scenic area.

For e x a mple, t he opt ic a l ly d ra m at ic Yo u t h R i d g e Tr a i l c l o s e t o R u i l i v i l la ge, wh ic h fol low s a n i mpor t a nt o l d t r a d e r o ut e , t a k e s h i k e r s d o w n a 1, 0 0 0 - m e t e r- l o n g s l o p e (a v e r a g e grade 60 degree s) to a gorge-bot tom w it h a lo s t world Ju r a s sic Pa rk-l i k e a t m o s p h e r e , h o m e t o t h e b a t-r o o s t Bat Cave a nd mesmerizingly striated Swa llow Clif f. The Zhukeng Stream Tra il, a bit further to the northwest, was originally called the “Old Charcoal Way” – pioneering folk used it to haul charcoal off the mountain to trade. It TR AVEL IN TAIWAN

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Taking in the peak view

Longgong Waterfall

passes over 12 suspension bridges, each of different design, and by a number of cataracts, with a hiker’s grand prize, the 120m-high Longgong (“Dragon Palace”) Waterfall, a breathtaking sight.

Things to Know Before Going “Subtropical Taiwan is hot,” says Dawson, “so many hikers are surprised how cold t he mou nta ins get. A s a genera l r u le, assuming zero humidity, it gets 1 degree colder for each 100m climbed.”

Often-heard advice is that autumn, especia lly October, is best for Ta iwa n hig h-mounta in trek s, but Dawson demurs. Each season has its positives and negatives, he says; you just work around it. Summer is indeed hot, he states, but t he posit ive i s t hat “ brig ht a nd cle a r mornings are almost guaranteed.” The snow in winter brings a different kind of beauty, “and cools things down.”

He also conf irms that local high-mountain trails are not just for dedicated hikers. “The road network gets you very close to many peaks over 3,000m,” he says, “so there are also many – comparatively – short and easy trails to choose from.”

Alishan sunrise TR AVEL IN TAIWAN

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Xueshan + Wuling Farm

Mt. Snow

Xueshan (Snow Mountain) is in Shei-Pa National Park (www.spnp.gov.tw), located in the region where Taichung City, Miaoli C ou nt y, a n d H s i nc hu C ou nt y m e e t .

This is a place of breathtaking mountain s c e ne r y, w it h 51 p e a k s ov e r 3, 0 0 0 m within its boundaries. The standard hike to Xueshan’s Main Peak is from Wuling Farm, one of Taiwan’s most popular highmou nt a i n recre at iona l f a r m s, loc ated about 30km from the fruit-growing village of Lishan on the Yilan County branch of the Central Cross-Island Highway (No. 7a). Another of the national park’s hiking stars is Mt. Dabajian (3,492m), “one of Ta iwa n’s most distinctive pea k s,” says Dawson, “a huge barrel-shaped rock that protrudes from a ridgeline.”

Camping in the high mountains

Xueshan is Taiwan’s second-highest peak, and for this reason is often overlooked by those who come here specifically for hiking, who have their sights set on Yushan. As felt by many other seasoned summit-conquerors, however, Dawson feels “Snow Mountain is a far more interesting and scenic hike. It’s one of my favorite hikes. The terrain and views var y greatly, and even though I’ve been to the top so many times, I still look forward to each and every trip. It’s always thrilling to pop out from the dense Black Forest into the clear, unobstructed views of Xueshan and what’s called the Holy Ridge.”

The hike generally takes two days (return) from Wuling Farm. Some will spread the hiking over three days, on Day One stopping at Chika Cabin just a few kilometers up from the farm. If on a two-day outing, Xueshan’s East Peak (3,201) is visited on the first day, and hikers bed down further along the trail at the 369 Cabin. The main hike quest is to see the sunrise on the Main Peak (3,886m), which means an early dark-hours rise on Day Two, followed by the return to the trailhead along the same route.

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High-altitude vegetation

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Wuling Farm tea plantation

Taoshan Waterfall

Wu ling Fa rm (www2 .wuling-farm.com.tw) f ills up a narrow and deep kilometer-long valley in such a visually ha rmonious ma nner t hat avoiding t houghts of what Shangri-la might be like are nigh impossible. Surrounded close-in by conifer-carpeted mountainsides, the valley was cleared and settled long ago by retired servicemen who had come over to Ta iwa n wit h t he Republic of China militar y after the Chinese Civil War ended in the late 1940s. Renowned for decades therea f ter for high-quality fruit production, in recent times the main Wuling money-making focus has been shifted to tourism.

Ma ny h i kers w i l l spend a nig ht in t he va l le y before a nd/or a f ter their journey up/down Xuesha n.

Accommodation options include 5-star hotel, simple lodge-style hotel, cabin, and camping facilities. Not long ago the campsite was voted both the island’s best and favorite in online public polling.

The farm as a whole offers a changing cascade of bright-colored botanical attractions throughout the year, with a variety of f lowers blooming in spring, pleasant temperatures during the summer, maple trees with colorchanging leaves in the autumn, and cherry blossoms in the winter.

Avid walkers can also avail themselves of another farm highlight, the Taoshan Waterfall Hiking Trail.

This is a paved, pine tree-shaded forest walk, mildly strenuous, that ends with a grand view of the 50m-high falls cascading down like twisting white ribbons of silk.

If on the return leg around dusk, wildlife spottings may well be a bonus reward.

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Taroko Gorge + Hehuanshan

The mighty Taroko Gorge, located along the East Coast just north of the city of Hualien, is one of East Asia’s great natural wonders, and one of Taiwan’s top sightseeing attractions. It abruptly “empties” from high mountains right at the Pacific, along with the waters of the sculpting knife that has created it, the Liw u R iver. The gorge is 19 k ilometers long, with t he opposing clif fsides, t hick wit h ma rble, in places just a few dozen meters apart. This deep cut is the hollowedout foundation, one might say, around which the ruggedly majestic Taroko National Park (www.taroko.gov.tw) has been constructed. It is laced through with a compelling menu of trails, some following the gorge itself, high and low, others heading off up hidden-adventure side gorges.

Zhuilu Historic Trail

Perhaps most popular is the Baiyang Trail. The sortie begins with a long tunnel, straight through a mountain, one side to the other, into a secondary gorge. It ends at two closeknit suspension footbridges leaping separate deep-cut clefts below a lof t y t w in c ata ract t hat plunges et herea lly from vertigo-inducing heights.

The crown jewel for passionate hikers, however, is the Zhuilu Historic Trail. First is a footbridge crossing over the Liwu, then a slog up the steep gorge face, then a traverse along the 1,200m-long Zhuilu Cliff about two-thirds up its 1,110m height. The cliff section is part of an old indigenous trail “expanded” by the Japanese – only a meter-plus wide for about 600 meters! – to facilitate troop access in a colonial tribepacification campaign.

“There are good accommodation options right in the gorge itself,” says Dawson, “ranging from 5-star hotel, hostel, and cabin to first-come, first-serve campsite facilities. These are all along the highway through the gorge, not along the trails themselves.”

T he just-mentioned hig hway is t he C entra l Cross-Isla nd Highway (No. 8). Moving inland from the coast, after passing through the gorge it takes you cur ving back and forth up toward the heavens to Taiwan’s highest paved-road point, the Wuling Pass (3,275m), after connecting with the New Central Cross-Island Highway (No. 14a), introduced in the Yushan/ Alishan section. Here you’ll find yourself surrounded by the easily accessible peaks of Hehua nsha n (Mt. Hehuan), the most accessible mountain above 3,000m in Taiwan. Wuling is positioned on the saddle between the Main Peak and East Pea k. The tra ilheads a re loc ated at dif ferent points, a nd elevations, along this section of highway.

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The trail to the Mt. Hehuan East Peak (3,421m) is just 1km. Steep in sections, it gains 300m in altitude over the short distance. The trek to the Main Peak (3,417m) is 2km, with a 200m elevation rise. The North Peak (3,422) jaunt entails 475m of elevation gain over about 2.5km. “Individuals with hiking experience can take on a bigger quest, camping near

the North Peak summit and striking out for the West Peak (3,145m) the next morning, about 4.5km away,” says Dawson.

“Those choosing this challenge should be relatively fit, because there are many ups and downs.” What you get in return is an “extremely scenic hike on clear days,” he adds, “because you spend time on a ridge line, presenting spectacular panoramas.”

Mt. Hehuan sunrise

Taiwan’s High-Mountain Ecology “Though small and mostly subtropical, Taiwan offers incredible climatic variation,” says Dawson, “from jungle-like conditions in low areas to coniferous forest in the middle reaches to a lpine conditions in the high reaches.” Precisely 10.3 percent of Taiwan’s land area is 2,500m-plus above sea level, a kingdom in the clouds almost bereft of permanent human denizens, a quiet zone of forests, wild animals, and birds.

A bove 2 ,0 0 0 meters, la rger fauna include Formosan Sambars, Taiwan’s largest herbivores, which sport brown winter camouf lage that makes them hard to espy, and Formosan Black Bears, Taiwan’s only indigenous ursine species, which do not hibernate.

A prized avian sighting is the endemic Mikado Phea sa nt, featured on t he N T$1,0 0 0 bi l l, which inhabits bamboo groves and sparse forest bet ween 1,800m and 3,300m.

High-mountain flowers on Mt. Hehuan

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Taipingshan

The sublime, sprawling Taipingshan Nationa l For e s t R e c r e a t ion A r e a (t ps .for e st .go v.t w) i s loc ated i n t he mou nt a i n s ju st sout h of Yi la n County’s Yilan Plain, between the Pacific Coast and the Lanyang River Valley. Through much of the 20th century Taipingshan was one of Taiwan’s t hree la rgest logging a rea s, t he A lisha n forest recreation area being another. The Japanese built narrow-gauge lines throughout the Taipingshan region to facilitate timber extraction.

Vestiges of this rugged bygone era are found by roadsides, along the diverse cypress-forest trails, and in the main visitor area. A number of the longer walking trails follow the original railbeds, along which trekkers come across sections of old track, cableways, logging-railway equipment, and other historical treasures. The most complete and tourist-popular of the historical relics is the 3kmlong Bong Bong Train narrow-gauge line. The tra in – “ bong bong” refers to the sound made as its cars trundle over the tracks – takes riders through the refreshing coniferous forest in the photogenically majestic main-facility area.

T he m a i n tou r i st-f a ci l it y a re a , c a l le d t he Taipingshan Villa (2,000m elevation), has a visitor information station, eateries, accommodations, and other facilities. Two of the forest area’s best trails are the Jianqing Historic Trail and Cuifeng L a k e C i r c u l a r Tr a i l . T he for mer i s a m i s t y mountainside-hugging pathway of lyrical beauty lifted straight from a poem, passing by old sections of Japanese-built tracks and creaky moss-covered trestles with views into a deep wooded valley. The Cuifeng Lake Circular Trail takes you high above and around exquisite Cuifeng Lake, a barrier lake that is also Taiwan’s largest alpine lake, to lookouts and past more intriguing logging-era relics.

Cuifeng Lake

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Jianqing Historic Trail

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Jiaming Lake

Jiaming Lake + Southern CrossIsland Highway

Ly ric a l ly lovely Jia ming L a ke is loc ated in Ta it u ng County’s northwest corner, reached via a trail that debuts at the X ia ng ya ng Nationa l Forest Recreation A rea (recreation.forest.gov.tw). This recreation area sits along the Southern Cross-Island Highway. Adventurers without their own transport, Dawson advises, can hire a ta xi in the Taitung town of Chishang; the railway station’s visitor center can provide assistance.

Jiaming La ke, Taiwan’s second-loftiest mountain lake and among its largest, is perched at an elevation of 3,520m and is oft referred to as the “teardrop of an angel.” Formed by glacier movement during the most recent ice age, “it was once thought that the lake was created by a meteor strike,” says Dawson.

“There’s a great campsite around the back of the police station at X ia ng ya ng,” he says, “wit h shower

and kitchen facilities.” From the Xiangyang area “it’s a gentle, pleasant walk through pine forest to the first mounta in hut, t he X ia ng ya ng Cabin.” From t here the trail steepens markedly, and the second cabin, the Jia ming L a ke Hut, is reached a f ter emerging from forest cover. The trek from Xiangyang area to lake and back can be tackled in a single day. One of the bonuses of this hike, says Dawson, is the high likelihood of deer coming to the lake to drink.

Note that many of the most experienced overseas travelers who’ve explored Taiwan consider the Southern Cross-Isla nd Hig hway it s most sc en ic road, wh ich is saying a lot. Unfortunately, a section not far west of the X iang yang area is currently closed because of typhoon damage, so a full east-west/west-east traverse is not possible.

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Tracking Down More Info

If you now find yourself pumped and primed to get out there among the island’s magnificent peaks, here is where you can get more info: Visit the website for each respective hiking area listed for more details on trails and, crucially, details on permits (if required) and booking trailsidec abin space. A lso, be sure to check out t he inexpensive, convenient Taiwan Tourist Shuttle hop on/hop off service (taiwantrip.com.tw).

Happy hikers ENGLISH AND CHINESE 369 Cabin 三六九山莊 Alishan 阿里山 Chika Cabin 七卡山莊 Cuifeng Lake Circular Trail 翠峰湖環山步道 Baiyang Trail 白楊步道 Bong Bong Train 蹦蹦車 Hehuanshan (Mt. Hehuan) 合歡山 Jiaming Lake 嘉明湖 Jiaming Lake Hut 嘉明湖山屋 Jianan Plain 嘉南平原 Jianqing Historic Trail 見晴懷古步道 Longgong (''Dragon Palace'') Waterfall 龍宮瀑布 Mt. Dabajian 大霸尖山 Paiyun Lodge 排雲山莊 Taipingshan 太平山 Taoshan Waterfall Hiking Trail 桃山瀑布步道 Taroko Gorge 太魯閣 Wuling Farm 武陵農場 Wuling Pass 武嶺鞍部 Xiangyang Cabin 向陽山屋 Xiangyang National Forest Recreation Area 向陽國家森林遊樂區 Xueshan (Snow Mountain) 雪山 Youth Ridge Trail 青年嶺環狀步道 Yushan (Mt. Jade) 玉山 Zhuilu Historic Trail 錐麓古道 Zhukeng Stream Trail 竹坑溪步道

Taipei

Mt. Dabajian

Wuling Farm

Xueshan

Taichung

Taipingshan

Taroko Gorge

Hehuanshan

Hualien Alishan

Yushan Jiaming Lake

Kaohsiung

Taitung

Hiking in Taroko Gorge

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Find Travel in Taiwan articles published in earlier issues, complemented with colorful images, Google maps, and links to our social media sites, including Youtube, Facebook, and Instagram, and informative sites of other bloggers in Taiwan.

Check out TAIWANEVERYTHING before you plan your next trip to Taiwan! taiwaneverything.cc Website

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A Southern Taiwan Sleepover with Belugas and Other Sea Creatures TE X T H A N CHEUNG

PHOTOS LOUI S LIU

If you have ever felt that a visit to an oceanographic museum was too short and wished you could stay a little bit longer to admire the wonders of the marine world, you might consider signing up for the National Museum of Marine Biology and Aquarium’s overnight stay option. This is great fun for the whole family, and can be paired with spending time at other tourist hotspots in the same area’s Kenting National Park.

A sleepover with manta rays

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ou’ll never see your kids as eager to make their beds and tuck themselves in as when they participate in the National Museum of Marine Biology and Aquarium’s (NMMBA) sleepover program (www.aquarium.com.tw; Chinese). Even a night owl like me was in bed by 10pm, glasses still on so I could stare at the belugas, Angel and Jingbao, drifting back and forth before me in slow motion. I then woke up in the middle of the night to the sound of the whales making high-pitched chirps at each other, the signature sound of belugas that has earned them the nickname “canaries of the sea.” I pulled my blanket tighter, and contentedly drifted back to sleep.

The beluga pool area is just one of several areas available as part of the aquarium’s overnight program. Those who need a serious break from the sweltering Taiwan summers can also nap at the penguin hall, which is cooler than the rest of the museum, and the bustling amphitheater area with the dog sharks and manta rays is also quite mesmerizing. For a different kind of adventure, there’s also a faux-sunken-ship area where the walls and ceiling are meticulously modeled to look like they have been underwater for decades. The most picture-worthy option of all, however, is the 80m underwater glass tunnel – one of the longest in Asia – where visitors are bathed in the blue light as if they were in the water alongside the myriad sea creatures. If you are interested in the sleepover program, check which areas are open and register early, as the earliest to sign up get first dibs.

The program, which includes guided tours and craft activities, is ideal for school trips and family fun. For us adults, it’s one of those things we wish we had done as a kid but never had the chance to do.

The museum is located north of the picturesque bay at the village of Houwan, made famous by the 2008 hit Taiwan movie Cape No. 7, and the sleepover experience can be part of a bigger excursion that includes the tropical paradise that is Kenting National Park (www. ktnp.gov.tw). The museum is situated in the northwest corner of the park, which from there stretches all the way down to the island of Taiwan’s southernmost point, covering all of the coastal areas and much of the hinterland in this area.

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Kayaking from Houwan Village to the museum

Opened to the public in 2000, the NMMBA (www.nmmba. gov.tw) occupies 35.81 hectares, and has three major exhibition areas: Waters of Taiwan, Coral Kingdom Pavilion, and Waters of the World. It also has a marine station and two research buildings dedicated to the conservation of coral reefs in the national park.

Its many achievements include becoming the first institution in the world to breed ringed pipefish successfully in captivity, in 2014, and it is one of 38 attractions to receive three stars in the latest Michelin Green Guide Taiwan.

Part of the sleepover program is an exploration of the Houwan area, including a bit of sea kayaking. After arriving at the museum early in the afternoon, we – a couple of friends and I – headed to Houwan, a sleepy fishing village that can be reached on foot from the museum by traversing a sandy beach scattered with coral rocks. The beach faces the beautiful half-moon-shaped bay. Tourists are drawn to this village, and there are a number of themed guesthouses along the waterfront – but overall it still retains the charm that made it one of the shooting locations for Taiwan’s highest-grossing domestic film ever.

All four of the types of hermit crab that inhabit Taiwan make their home at Houwan, and there are “shell recycle stations” along the village’s boardwalk, reminding people not to take away any potential homes for the crustaceans. In 2017, Houwan became the first community in Kenting National Park allowed to offer kayaking and stand-up paddleboard activities, as it was deemed that such activities would not negatively affect the local ecosystem. The local

development association also offers sea-salt tofu-making workshops, and eco-tours of the surrounding terrain.

The waves were strong on the day of our visit, but we went out on a short kayaking excursion anyway, aiming to make a straight line back across the bay toward the museum. Sea kayaking is harder than it seems, but it was great fun to ride the waves and try to remain on course. It was a Thursday, and I was struck as to how tranquil this place was compared to more popular spots further south along the coast. It’s impossible to stay dry doing sea kayaking, so bringing a change of clothes is recommended.

Tidal-zone exploration

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Back at the museum, we showered and changed. The spacious facilities include thoughtful features such as clothing dehydrators and lockable phone-charging stations. There’s no need to bring food – the overnight stay includes a buffet dinner and breakfast, and along the terrace that connects the buildings vendors hawk Turkish-style ice cream, hot dogs, and other snacks during the day. The museum management has seen to it that nobody will go hungry – they even serve guests a late-night sweet mung-bean soup, and if that still isn’t enough, the basement has instant-noodle vending machines.

The overnight visitors were split into different groups, to each of which was assigned a guide named after a sea creature. Ours was Sister Anemone, a highly spirited and knowledgeable young lady from Hualien County in eastern Taiwan who had done extra homework upon learning she would be guiding us foreigners, memorizing the English names and nicknames of the creatures she would be showing us on our tour.

After walking us through the fascinating Waters of the World exhibit, our guide took us behind the scenes, above the massive tanks where the keepers descend into the water to feed the marine denizens.

We got to see tanks of baby clownfish, seahorses, and other recent arrivals still acclimating to their life in captivity, not yet ready to join the larger underwater community below. We learned about the divers’ equipment, and why some helmets are adorned with fake clownfish (to protect the divers from “attacks” by hungry fish, and to make certain fish feel more at ease), touched the leathery collagen egg cases of dogsharks, and learned about the contents of the freezer full of fish used to feed larger animals.

Hands-on experience

Guided tour through the museum

Watching a feeding session

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After dinner, we met up with Sister Anemone again for a tour through the Coral Kingdom, which is designed on a slope to mimic visitors slowly descending into the ocean. This time, our guide explained how fish sleep, showed us nocturnal species that remain in hiding during the day, and also explained how many sea creatures have fluorescent qualities. It’s an ethereal journey that’s substantially different from regular visits during the day, eerie yet magical at the same time. When we passed through the glass tunnel, it became obvious why everyone wanted to sleep here despite the somewhat limited space. We were literally surrounded by swimming creatures that passed over in schools or solitarily, creating a kaleidoscopic feast for the senses.

Exiting the tunnel, we met our companions for the night, the resident belugas, which we learned to recognize through their skin markings, genitalia, and other characteristics. They have the intelligence of a 7-yearold, explained our guide; Angel is the most playful, and will visibly respond to visitors and follow them across the room, while Jingbao by comparison is more reserved. They’re majestic creatures that are a wonder to watch, but the reality is also that they were made to perform for humans until, around the globe during the past decade, such practices came to be considered inhumane and became outdated. After seven of the museum’s original 10 belugas died due to various causes, it was announced last December that belugas would no longer be imported or bred, making the current three the last of their kind in Taiwan.

Sleeping in the beluga pool area 28

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After our tour, we went to a DIY room to make sea creatures from clay. Don’t dismiss this as a kiddie activity; it can be rather therapeutic for adults too. Afterwards, the time soon came to make our beds. The lights are turned out at 10pm, although the restless can still wander the museum, or go outside and look at a full sky of stars until the building is closed at midnight. I was afraid the children would be loud, but they all seemed mesmerized into silence by what they saw above and around them in the water.

The next day a different guide took us back to Houwan’s coral beach to examine the marine life in the intertidal zone. We didn’t find much on this particular day, but it was still enjoyable being out exploring.

The program wraps up with an educational session on marine ecology and conservation, and before we left I managed to catch the penguin feeding show, which was so packed with school children that I’m glad we had had the whole aquarium to ourselves during the night.

DIY clay fish

The museum is a hit with school children

GETTING THERE Public Transport From the Taiwan High Speed Rail Zuoying Station in Kaohsiung, or the Fangliao Railway Station, take a Taiwan Tourist Shuttle (Kenting Express Line; No. 9189) bus to the NMMBA Transfer Bus Stop ( 海生館轉乘站 ) and switch to Pingtung Bus No. 101, which stops at the museum.

Self-Drive Take National Freeway 3 all the way south to the Linbian Interchange ( 林 邊 交 流 道 ), then follow Provincial Highway 17 further south, then Freeway 1, and, further south still, Provincial Highway 26. After passing the town of Checheng, turn right onto Pingtung County Road 152, and follow the signs to the museum.

ENGLISH AND CHINESE Cape No. 7 海角七號 Checheng 車城 Houwan 後灣 Kenting National Park 墾丁國家公園

PRACTICAL INFO The National Museum of Marine Biology and Aquarium is open daily from 9am to 5:30pm, with slightly extended hours in July and August.

Tickets are NT$450 for adults and NT$250 for students and children aged 6 and above.

A minimum of 15 total guests are required for each sleeping zone to be opened up, with certain areas closed during specified times of the year.

The standard packages at the Waters of Taiwan and Waters of the World areas cost NT$2,380 for those 6 years old and above, and NT$1,090 for those younger (minimum age for participation is 3). Coral Kingdom experiences, which include the glass tunnel and beluga area, go for NT$3,080 and NT$1,790, respectively. While the aquarium has an excellent English website, the details for the sleepover are all in Chinese; it's best to call the museum at (08) 882-5678 and ask for English-language help with registration.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF MARINE BIOLOGY AND AQUARIUM ( 國立海洋生物博物館 ) (08) 882-5678 No. 2, Houwan Rd., Houwan Village, Checheng Township, Pingtung County ( 屏東縣車城鄉後灣村後灣路 2 號 ) www.nmmba.gov.tw

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s k a e 99 P r e p a P i l u P &

99 Peaks Forest Trail

A Drive to the Heart of Taiwan TE X T STE V E N CROOK

PHOTOS R AY CH A NG

Nantou County in central Taiwan is home to no coastline, but it has some of the island’s most magnificent scenery. Two routes into this mountainous county’s heart are Freeway 6 and Highway 14, taking you from Taichung City to the town of Puli.

A

clear blue sky greeted our bullet train as it entered the central Taiwan city of Taichung and pulled into its high-speed rail station. Eager to begin exploring, we headed downstairs to pick up a rental car and drive into Nantou County via National Freeway 6.

In contrast to Taiwan’s western lowlands, landlocked Nantou is both thinly populated and ruggedly mountainous.

It’s possible to trek through the spectacular Central Mountain Range, a section of which covers the better half of the county, for several days without encountering a road. The region also has dozens of shorter hiking routes suitable for those with less ambition or less time, and we made a beeline for one of these.

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SCENIC ROU TE S / N A NTOU

On the 99 Peaks Forest Trail

Yu-Hsiu Museum of Art

The Jiu-Jiu Peaks Ecology and Art Park (“Jiu-Jiu” is the Mandarin pronunciation of “99”), located in Caotun Township north of both Freeway 6 and Provincial Highway 14, is part of a nature reserve that was established in the wake of the devastating 921 Earthquake in September of 1999. Because of the area’s fragile geology, the quake created what is – in verdant Taiwan – an unusually desolate landscape.

Steep slopes shed loose soil and rocks, leaving them bereft of vegetation. Aerial photos taken after the disaster revealed a cluster of sharp, bald ridges. In the almost 20 years since, the hillsides have stabilized and the peaks are again covered with greenery.

Vegetation has reconquered the badlands, transforming them into scenery that reminded me a little of Guilin in mainland China.

For fans of fresh air and exercise, the park’s main attraction is the 99 Peaks Forest Trail. This 1.93km-long circuit takes hikers up and over a few of the 99 peaks the area is said to have, the highest point being 485m above sea level. According to on-site information boards, a round-trip takes about one hour. However, it’s best to allow at least two hours for the hike so that you can fully enjoy both the walk and the views over the park area and Caotun, the nearest town, to the west.

After working up a good sweat on the trail, you can cool off while appreciating some art. The Yu-Hsiu Museum of Art, a short stroll from the parking lot near the trailhead, is in a building of strikingly modern design for which the architect won a national prize. For details on current and upcoming exhibitions, visit the museum’s website.

Jiu-Jiu Peaks

Some stretches of the trail are paved. Others consist of compacted soil held in place by stones and timber blocks. Where the going gets steep, steps have been carved into the hillside, or wooden stairs built a few inches above the ground to protect the surface from erosion.

Along the way, we saw a stunning array of butterflies and moths, many a grasshopper, and a few whopping Golden Orb Weaver spiders. In Chinese, these creatures are called “man-faced spiders” – but few people are brave enough to get so close they can see the dark dots on the spider’s yellow back, which resemble eyes, or the semi-circular “mouth” just below the “eyes.”

If you’re extremely lucky you may glimpse larger creatures, such as the Taiwan ferret badger or the Taiwan serow (a goat-like bovid). The former is seldom seen during daytime, while the latter often uses its incredible climbing skills to get away from humans.

The foliage was equally diverse. I wasn’t surprised to come across various types of bamboo, but never before had I seen so many Malabar Chestnut trees in one place. These are cultivated not for their nuts, which are inedible, but for sale as ornamental houseplants. When the trunks of five trees are successfully braided together as they grow, the result is seen as a symbol of wealth. In fact, an alternative name in Chinese is the “Get Rich Tree.” At the time of our visit, the trees were shedding their large shaving-brush-shaped flowers.

YU-HSIU MUSEUM OF ART ( 毓繡美術館 ) (049) 257-2999 www.yu-hsiu.org No. 26, Ln. 150, Jianxing Rd., Pinglin Borough, Caotun Township, Nantou County ( 南投縣草屯鎮平林里健行路 150 巷 26 號 )

As the crow flies, our next destination was less than 2km away along Highway 14. After parking our car beneath Freeway 6, we walked a few minutes to the northern end of the Shuangxi Suspension Bridge, immediately on arrival disturbing a pair of Formosan macaques, Taiwan’s only monkey species.

Spanning the Dadu River (also known as the Wu River), the bridge is the longest (360m) of its type in Taiwan. It was completed under the supervision of Lin Zhi-mu (1930-2003), a construction specialist who oversaw the building of more than half of Taiwan’s 300-odd steel-cable footbridges. A relief image by the northern end of the bridge depicts Lin at work.

Shuangxi Suspension Bridge

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SCENIC ROU TE S / N A NTOU

NTCRI exhibition hall

Local Crafts From the bridge, it’s barely 10km west along Highway 14 to the National Taiwan Craft Research and Development Institute (NTCRI), located just outside the center of Caotun town. The mission of the NTCRI is to improve the quality of products made by traditional-handicraft artisans so as to make them more marketable. It’s an excellent place to see craftspeople at work, and you can buy quality keepsakes, among them practical items such as chopsticks and backscratchers.

The campus of the institute is quite large, but your time is best spent in two buildings. In one, the Living Craft Hub is spread over five floors devoted to individual workshop-galleries. In the other, the Craft Hub is an open-plan display area. If you’ve young kids in tow, the fourth floor of the former – where you can find traditional games, puzzles, and other distractions – is a good place to spend a little time. But if you’re looking for some really classy souvenirs, head to the latter building. Both hubs are open Tuesday to Sunday, 9am to 5pm.

Among the art forms you’ll see represented in the institute are bamboo crafts, ceramics, lacquerware, lapidary arts, and metalwork.

This part of Taiwan has an especially strong bamboo-working tradition; another town in Nantou County, Zhushan, literally “bamboo mountain,” is especially known for its bamboo art.

NATIONAL TAIWAN CRAFT RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT INSTITUTE ( 台灣工藝研究發展中心 ) (049) 233-4141 www.ntcri.gov.tw No. 573, Zhongzheng Rd., Caotun Township, Nantou County ( 南投縣草屯鎮中正路 573 號 )

Wood-carving work

Puli Freeway 6, opened in 2009, has made the mountainous heart of Taiwan much more accessible to those living along the island’s western side. From the NTCRI it took us less than 45 minutes to get to Puli, a peaceful town in north-central Nantou. If you travel to famous Sun Moon Lake and approach that tourist hotspot from the north you will most likely pass the town on the way.

One of Puli’s most popular tourist attractions is the Goang Xing Paper Mill. At one time – thanks to the pristine water and abundant woodland resources of the mountain basin in which it is located – Puli had around 50 papermaking mills. All but a handful have fallen by the wayside, unable to compete with more efficient factories elsewhere, but Goang Xing has survived by opening its doors to the public.

Paper makers at Goang Xing Paper Mill

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The mill’s website is in Chinese only, but if you search online you’ll find numerous English-language blog posts and news reports about this place. Tourists who roll up without an appointment can usually join a 20-minute guided tour in Mandarin within half an hour. If you want to try some of the DIY activities, or you wish to arrange an English-language tour, it’s best to get a Chinese-speaker to call (049) 291-3037 a few days in advance.

The tour includes a look around an exhibition room where the traditional paper-making process is explained, and where specialized tools are preserved. Among the latter are various brushes, including one made of horse-mane hair and another of pine needles.

Paper shop

One popular DIY option is to turn the paper you’ve made into a fan, but if you’d rather buy some exquisite paper and take it home, perhaps to turn it into lampshades, head to the modern building next to the mill. Here you’ll find a shop filled with papers of every conceivable color and thickness. To create special textures and patterns, materials such as onion skin, loofah fiber, or dried leaf from guava trees have been added to short production runs.

In the same building there’s also a coffee shop where you can try some unusual snacks, including delicious chocolate-flavored cookies made of edible paper.

Much more interesting is the process by which pulp is turned into sheets of paper. Visitors who sign up for a DIY session will do this for themselves by dipping a folding-frame contraption into a tub filled with pulpy water. As they lift it out, the water drains away. Pulp spreads evenly over a piece of bamboo matting that is then carefully separated. If there are no lumps or bubbles, the paper (which is about A2 size) is pressed to remove water, then brushed perfectly flat.

While the tourists are struggling to come up with a single decent sheet of paper, the mill’s professionals – typically four or five are working at any time – are producing rectangle after perfect rectangle of paper, each one as big as a dinner table. Watching them is mesmerizing, not least because the shade of cream or brown is different at each workstation, depending on the raw material used to make the pulp.

The sloshing sounds inside the mill made me think of a wave machine. Yet the liquid circulating isn’t simply pulp mixed with water. Our guide pointed out a tub of clear goo, and there was a connection to what we’d seen earlier in the day. This is Malabar Chestnut sap, a small quantity of which is added to the blend because it helps the fibers float to the surface.

GOANG XING PAPER MILL ( 廣興紙寮 ) (049) 291-3037 www.taiwanpaper.net (Chinese) No. 310, Tieshan Rd., Tieshan Borough, Puli Township, Nantou County ( 南投縣埔里鎮鐵山里鐵山路 310 號 )

A unique landmark stands on the eastern outskirts of Puli. As its name suggests, the Stele of Taiwan’s Geographical Center marks a point which is as near to the island’s east coast as it is to the western littoral, and as near to Taiwan’s northernmost tip as it is to the southernmost bit of dry land.

Continuing past the stele on Highway 14/14a, you will enter the high mountains and will come to tourist favorites such as the Qingjing Farm and the Hehuanshan mountain area and then, on the descent to the east coast, magnificent Taroko Gorge. Not as far, but equally scenic and attractive, is Sun Moon Lake, about half an hour by car south of Puli, along Provincial Highway 21.

We also saw two ladies busy spreading out just-pressed sheets on a heated metal surface, then brushing them perfectly flat using pine-needle brushes like the one we’d seen earlier. There are English-language signs and notices throughout the paper mill, and one here warned visitors not to touch the metal tabletop. It’s usually 90 degrees Celsius or even hotter, our guide said.

ENGLISH AND CHINESE 99 Peaks Forest Trail 九九峰森林步道 Caotun 草屯 Craft Hub 地方工藝館 Dadu River 大肚溪 "Get Rich Tree" 發財樹 Jiu-Jiu Peaks Ecology and Art Park 九九峰生態藝術園區 Golden Orb Weaver 人面蜘蛛 Lin Zhi-mu 林枝木 Living Craft Hub 生活工藝館 Malabar Chestnut 馬拉巴栗 Puli 埔里 Shuangxi Suspension Bridge 雙十吊橋 Stele of Taiwan's Geographical Center 臺灣地理中心碑 Wu River 烏溪 Zhushan 竹山

In Nantou, you’re far from the sea, but Taiwan is your oyster!

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Face-painting is an important part of getting ready to perform at temple festivals 34

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DELIGHTFU L FOLK E X PER IENCE / REL IGIOUS FES TI VA L S

e l e C b r e a l t p i o m n e s T w the Eight General s an to Kno g n i dt tt ng Jiang Battle Ri o S e he n e m t G i u e a N l

TE X T RICK CH A RE T TE

PHOTOS CHE N CHE NG - KUO, V I S ION

For many visitors to Taiwan, among the most colorful and powerful visual memories taken back home are of the deity-led street parades and acrobatic displays by martial-arts troupes that are part of traditional temple celebrations.

We provide you with a little “behind the scenes” tour here, on temple processions, the Eight Generals troupes commonly seen leading them, and the popular annual Kaohsiung Neimen Song Jiang Battle Ritual competition.

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here is no better way to witness a nation’s people at their joyful best than by observing them watching, and taking part in, their festivals. In Taiwan, traditional Chinese religious festivals are still celebrated almost exactly as they have been over the hundreds of years since Han Chinese started emigrating from mainland China en masse in the 1600s, though of course with much more pomp and pageantry as the island’s people have grown ever wealthier.

As with other cultures, most of these festivals originated far back in the agricultural past when life was dictated by the cycles of farming life, from planting through harvest. Other popular religious festivals are celebrations of the birthdays of deities, which the Chinese pantheon supplies in breathtaking number. Almost invariably, temples serve as the base for these events. Taiwan is home to approximately 12,000 Chinese-religion places of worship, from small shrines to enormous complexes.

Temple Processions The main deity in any given temple oversees the goings-on in that locality, and protects the mortal residents. During festival and god-birthday celebrations the main deity will go on one or more inspection processions around the community, carried in a palanquin, which is beautified with elaborate carvings. These are raucous affairs, with much banging of drums, blasting of horns, and bursting of firecrackers to scare off lurking evildoers from the world beyond.

Heading the procession is the zhentou, literally the “head of the procession formation.” These characters act as a security vanguard, protecting the palanquin-seated god further back by frightening off demons and ghosts and at the same time proclaiming the god’s imminent arrival. While this folk-art form has its roots in the timeless religious practices of China, the present form of zhentou in

Taiwan has taken shape over the last few decades and is unique to the island.

A mong the most visually vibrant zhentou martial-arts troupes are what are called Eight Generals troupes. These are commonly affiliated with a specif ic temple. Because the art form involves strenuous physical demands – for example, troupes may be on the streets for hours at a time during deity processions – participants are almost universally male and young, and the temple troupes serve as something akin to a boys’ club. The temples encourage hea lthy recreation, and encourage local lads who experience troubles in life to join, providing them with friendship, support, focus, and the chance to earn a little money. Usually an oldtime troupe member will be a volunteer part-time teacher. After winning competitions the result is more and higher commissions to perform in noncompetition events.

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One of the Eight Generals

The Eight Generals The first region in Taiwan settled by Han Chinese was the southwest, which today is renowned for its passionate temple culture, and more specifically for its zhentou templeparade troupes. A key troupe within the larger group of security officers that leads a deity-palanquin procession is the Eight Generals. An Eight Generals formation can in fact feature as many as 13 different figures, but in Taiwan the “Eight Generals” appellation is universally applied.

Generals groups originated in Taiwan at the city of Tainan’s Bailong (White Dragon) Temple in the 1800s.

When the tradition spread to the city of Chiayi (which today remains a hotbed of temple-troupe culture), the inf luential Ciji Temple troupe settled on an array of four main generals and four “gods of the seasons.” To make performances more visually compelling, over time Taiwan troupes have made the collective movements and individual dance/acrobatic movements more active, leading to the sophisticated, complex performances known today.

Ancient belief is that the generals were troublemaking demons that were brought to heel and, over time, entered into the City God’s retinue as guards. The duty of these secondary deities is to act as a bodyguard for the main god or gods in processions, driving away ghosts and demons or capturing them to haul back for trial. At the same time, the mortal community is protected. The generals are equipped with different types of ancient tools of torture, used for “interrogation.”

The ritualized formations used during performances are drawn from Daoist religious elements steeped in symbolic meaning, such as the Eight Trigrams, Five Elements, and Seven Stars. Each Eight Generals deity has distinguishing face-paint design, weaponry, and other elements, and individual troupes will introduce their own variations.

Let’s use Xia Da Shen, or the Great Summer God, as an example. The intricate design on his face is said to resemble a turtle, with a plum blossom design also incorporated, the flower representing the summer season.

Flame patterns are also commonly incorporated, for his

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Striking a fearsome pose before the "battle"

DELIGHTFU L FOLK E X PER IENCE / REL IGIOUS FES TI VA L S

Protector gods leading a procession

responsibility is the torture of prisoners through burning. He’ll be carrying his tool of torture, a brazier. Hot coals, anyone?

In the past the makeup consisted simply of a single base color, black eyes, and a red mouth, but designs have been become steadily more complex over time. This is said to be a reflection of the struggle in society at large – respect for traditions while also adapting to modernity’s demand for change and novelty. Taiwan, a society of pioneers in the same fashion as American society sees itself in the best sense, is one of Asia’s societies most open to change.

In performing their task of menacing otherworldly ne’er-do-wells, the elaborate-garb Eight Generals strike fearsome poses and facial expressions.

According to tradition, under no circumstances should the performers speak, for this might reveal them to their foes as mere mortals in disguise.

Nor should they smile, for the act of smiling might crack their makeup. The Eight Generals walk with high, exaggerated sweeping steps, and approach a temple’s central portal in pairs while the rest of the troupe marks out an intrusion-safe zone. It must be the central portal, for a temple’s main deity sits in direct alignment inside the first hall, and the presentation is for the deity first, human onlookers second.

A deity procession approaches a temple

DELIGHTFU L FOLK E X PER IENCE / REL IGIOUS FES TI VA L S

Kaohsiung Neimen Song Jiang Battle Ritual The Song Jiang Battle Array is a traditional type of performance art incorporating kung fu, drumming, rapid formation transitions, and mock fighting with ancient-style weaponry. The Kaohsiung Neimen Song Jiang Battle Ritual is an annual event that has an adrenalinepumping grand competition of zhentou martial-arts troupes as its centerpiece. This is the highlight of cultural life in the city of Kaohsiung’s rural Neimen District, where a population of just 15,000 supports between 50 and 60 martial-arts performance troupes.

The 2019 edition ran from Saturday, March 16 to Sunday, April 7. The zhentou competition ran from Saturday, March 30, when the opening ceremony, opening round of the competition, and pulsatingly kaleidoscopic Water Dancing & Fireworks show were held, to the next Saturday, April 6, when the competition finals, awards ceremony, and closing Water Dancing & Fireworks show were held.

The formal name of the zhentou competition is the Creative Song Jiang Battle Array Contest. Competing teams are from schools around Taiwan, from elementary to university level. This year, for example, the youngest team was the Jingliao Elementary School Alliance Team, featuring elite performers from different elementary schools. Other troupes came from two high schools and five universities. Also interspersed throughout the full length of the festivities are performances by specially invited troupes, with perhaps the most notable such ensemble this year being the Xiamen Xiangan SongJiang Battle Array troupe from mainland China.

“Song Jiang” was the main character in the classical Chinese novel The Water Margin, who formed his men into intricate formations emphasizing quick transformation to different fighting techniques and positioning. Today’s battle-array performers wield old-style weapons, rattan shields, etc., and some dress as characters from the novel (108 in total). The Eight Generals are also a Song Jiang zhentou constant. Today, the typical troupe is composed of 36 members.

The Taiwan battle-array tradition started in the 19th century with martial-arts teams, centered around temples, that served as militia.

Then-isolated Neimen, for example, was under constant threat of attack from bandits and indigenous warriors.

The goal of the Kaohsiung City Government, which is the organizer, is to spark renewed interest in this old form of artistic expression. Recognizing that in today’s sophisticated world young people have many other recreation options vying for their attention, it encourages the freestyle introduction of creativity atop a faithful base of traditional martial-arts formation skills. You’ll thus see imaginative f lourishes ranging from human-pyramid-building, spinning plates on sticks, and juggling to street dance and hip-hop, rap, and rock music.

Among the splendiferous array of other festival attractions this year was the Daily Gourmet Market, Neimen history and culture tours, the three-day Religious Carnival, and the Neimen Chefs and Tables event. The last was focused on bando, Taiwan’s unique outdoor banqueting culture; for generations, Neimen has been a key Taiwan font for bando crews (see our report on the bando phenomenon in our last Travel in Taiwan issue).

For more information on the Neimen festival, visit who-ha.com.tw.

For more on Taiwan religion in general, visit the Tourism Bureau website at taiwan.net.tw.

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Pheasant feather fans are often used by performers

Elementary school students performing their routine

ENGLISH AND CHINESE Bailong Temple 白龍庵 bando 辦桌 Ciji Temple 慈濟宮 Eight Generals 八家將 Eight Trigrams 八卦 Five Elements 五行 Kaohsiung Neimen Song Jiang Battle Ritual 高雄內門宋江陣

Neimen District 內門區 Seven Stars 七星 Song Jiang 宋江 Song Jiang Battle Array 宋江陣 The Water Margin 水滸傳 Xia Da Shen 夏大神 zhentou 陣頭

DELIGHTFU L FOLK E X PER IENCE / REL IGIOUS FES TI VA L S

Drum performance

Exciting martial-arts performance

Acrobatic skills are a key

Neimen face-painting experience

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Gongguan Old Farming Village Life and Products, Hakka Cuisine, Engineering Relics, and Oil-Drilling History

Cultural Landscapes – Rich and Colorful Small and “Slow” Towns in Miaoli County: Gongguan and Yuanli TE X T RICK CH A RE T TE

PHOTOS CHE N CHE NG - KUO, R AY CH A NG , V I S ION

Enjoy a glimpse into the local rural environment with quiet and pleasant wanderings around two “Taiwan Small Town Ramble” destinations in hilly Miaoli County.

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onsidering the relatively small size of Taiwan, there is incredible terrain variation. Almost two-thirds are high hills and soaring mountains. In the center, over 200 peaks rise above 3,000 meters. Around the perimeter are flatlands made deeply fertile by the mineral-rich silts washed down from on high.

This terrain tapestry, in turn, has been a key in crafting the tremendous personality variation of the island’s towns and villages. This rich and colorful cultural landscape is being celebrated by the Taiwan Tourism Bureau with the 2019 Taiwan Small Town Ramble promotional campaign ( feversocial. com/2019town/Home-6459; Chinese), sculpting a distinct “local town” tourism brand. Selections include “classic towns” of various counties and cities in Taiwan, “theme towns” recommended by various ministries – such as Hakka towns – indigenous tribal villages, and towns certified as slow-paced cities by Cittaslow International (www.cittaslow.org). The definition of “town” is expansive, encompassing administratively independent towns, former towns now absorbed as city districts, and neighborhoods or “old streets” long part of a larger urban agglomeration.

In this issue we visit Miaoli County, renowned for its hilly terrain, a place where most towns arose centuries ago in the small pockets of fertile flatland between the hilly folds. Our two chosen destinations are Gongguan and Yuanli.

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Situated in Miaoli’s central area, in its lower reaches before debouching into the Taiwan Strait, the meandering Houlong River has carved out a broad and long fertile valley between the hills. The small city of Miaoli, population just 90,000, sits on the plain along the river not far upstream from the mouth – the word itself, “Miaoli,” is a Chinese rendering of the word for “plain” in the language of the original indigenous inhabitants. Gongguan Township is at the valley head, where the river emerges abruptly from the mountains through a gorge.

Gongguan was the last Miaoli plain area settled

by Han Chinese, and attack from the hills by native warriors was long a threat. The residents of Shiqiang Village, on the river looking directly into the gorge, laboriously built a protective stone wall (i.e., “shiqiang”) 7m high and 6m deep using rounded river stones. Vestiges of this great wall, knocked down to 2m in an earth-shattering 1935 earthquake, are visible along the quiet streets and alleys. The village is also known for ceramics production, and visitors pass by a number of old red-brick studios and high-quality artworks depicting rural scenes on building walls.

Another village icon is the Chinese jujube; local production originated on the great wall itself, with the prickly plants used as an extra attack deterrent.

Hilly Miaoli has a heavy Hakka population. Most ancestors of the Hakka, a Han Chinese minority with a distinct dialect and cultural expressions, came from the mountainous northeast of mainland China’s Guangdong Province. The well-known yet modest-price Full Love Noodles restaurant in Fuji Village to the east of Shiqiang serves classic Hakka fare. The interior décor is simple yet tasteful. Adding to the attractiveness of the wood-theme exterior are the rushing waters of the valley’s irrigation-channel system, carried down from the nearby hills for over a century. The best of the eatery’s best dishes are the bantiao noodles, stir-fried tofu with salted egg, and roast salty pork.

Hakka-style bantiao noodles

FULL LOVE NOODLES ( 福樂麵店 ) (03) 722-4455 www.facebook.com/FullLoveNoodles No. 121, Fuji Village, Gongguan Township, Miaoli County ( 苗栗縣公館鄉福基村 121 號 )

SM A LL-TOW N CH A R M / GONGGUA N/ Y UA NL I

Chuhuangkeng Suspension Bridge

Walking through Shiqiang Village

At the Taiwan Oil Field Exhibition Hall

Tong tree blossoms at Luye Guan Yun Homestay

Next door is the Gongguan Farmers’ Association Fuji Branch, housed in an airy smart-looking building of modernist mien. Its shelves are filled with score upon score of agricultural products, processed and not, that encapsulate the distinctions of Gongguan culture. Happily sampled on-site by the Travel in Taiwan team on the research trip for this article were mulberry and Chinese jujube ice-cream cones. Happily taken home were packaged Hakka-style mochi, taro-flavor noodles, jujube chocolate, jujube tea, and plum wine.

Up the gorge just a few kilometers from the entrance is the impossible-to-miss Chuhuangkeng Suspension Bridge, its pastelred steel framework, contrasting sharply with the rich greens of the mountainsides and the browns and grays of the lower cliffs and mostly exposed riverbed, jumping out at the eye as the bridge leaps the river. Built by the Japanese in 1927 during the Japanese colonial period (1895~1945), between then and 1977 this was the only artery for vehicles to cross the gorge. Macaques use it for the same reason; if here in the early morning, watch for them playing high up in the cables.

The main local road snakes along the base on the gorge’s north side. On the south, just west of the suspension bridge, is the Taiwan Oil Field Exhibition Hall. It is located on the site of Taiwan’s first oil-drilling location, opened with the help of American engineers in 1861. The hall itself is a treat, with a variety of exhibits on Taiwan’s oil and natural-gas industry, but the big

thrill is the “ghost complex” spread up the lower mountainside beside – old drilling platforms, workshops, and dormitories, a medical clinic, and even a section of steep-slope tram railway (good English explanatory signage). These facilities are located at the mouth of a short side valley where the trailhead of the 1.8km Chuhuangkeng Historic Trail is also located, taking walkers up to viewing pavilions with stupendous views of the gorge below and central mountains beyond.

Back on the main gorge road, just west of the suspension bridge is a narrow side road that leads up another small side valley, to the Luye Guan Yun Homestay. Built of wood in rustic Western cottage style, this is a popular day-tripper spot for afternoon tea (good coffees and smoothies too) and first-rate Hakka food. The views down the heavily wooded valley and across the face of the gorge from the spacious dining deck, white tung-tree blossoms floating through the air like oversized snowflakes, are delicious.

There is both constant birdsong and sightings, the most colorful on Travel in Taiwan’s recent trip being Muller’s barbets, Formosan blue magpies, and black-throated tits.

LUYE GUAN YUN HOMESTAY ( 鹿野觀雲民宿 ) (03) 723-9988 No. 35-11, Fude Village, Gongguan Township, Miaoli County ( 苗栗縣公館鄉福德村 35-11 號 )

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Yuanli

Old-Time Brick/Tile and Triangle-Rush Craft Production, Traditional Hakka Sanheyuan, Fishing Harbor Sunsets

Yuanli Township, in Miaoli’s southwest corner, was one of Miaoli’s earliest-settled areas. It lies on the north side of the wide plain at the mouth of the Da’an River, one of Taiwan’s major waterways, and has long been nicknamed “Miaoli’s granary.” Today the township is home to 3,000ha dedicated to rice, with organic-rice production a flourishing sub-sector. As will be seen, rush-weaving was also long an important local craft industry, today contributing primarily to the tourist trade.

The Yuanli Triangle Rush Exhibition Hall houses displays on how locals have crafted daily-use items from triangle rushes since the early 1800s. Indigenous women taught Han Chinese settlers how triangle-rush mats stayed cool to the touch in summer, and Han women later began producing bags, hats, and other items, most shipped to mainland China. During Taiwan’s period of Japanese colonial rule international exports grew substantially, with rush-woven products becoming Taiwan’s third-largest export category after sugar and rice in the 1920s~1930s.

Fine works created by local talent are sold at the hall’s gift shop.

As well, check out the surrounding triangle-rush fields, and from the nearby lookout tower view a large paddy cleverly transformed into a classical Chinese “painting” by strategically growing rice plants of different colors.

Woven bags

Yuanli Triangle Rush Exhibition Hall

YUANLI TRIANGLE RUSH EXHIBITION HALL ( 藺草文化館 ) (037) 862-141 www.yuanli.org.tw (Chinese) No. 65, Weigong Rd., Yuanli Township, Miaoli County ( 苗栗縣苑裡鎮為公路 65 號 )

Jin Liang Shing (JLS) Brick Factory

Through much of the 20th century, Yuanli was also a key Taiwan brick and tile producer. This era ended with the advent of concrete, and in recent decades most brick operations on the island have been shuttered. The Jin Liang Shing (JLS) Brick Factory does not fit this mold, however. Founded in 1973, it thrives today, and it transformed itself into Taiwan’s only brickand-tile-theme tourist factory in 2004. Guided tours commence with a video (English subtitles) on JLS and area production, where the hills provide premium grey-color clay. Visitors then inspect two well-preserved kilns, one a 162m-long behemoth, witness the firing process with overhead views into red-hot furnace interiors, and view a museum display of both old-time and modern bricks and tiles.

JIN LIANG SHING (JLS) BRICK FACTORY ( 金良興觀光磚廠 ) (037) 746-368 www.jls-brick.com No. 71-17, Shanjiao Borough, Jinshan, Yuanli Township, Miaoli County ( 苗栗縣苑裡鎮��里錦山 71 之 17 號 )

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SM A LL-TOW N CH A R M / GONGGUA N/ Y UA NL I

Dongli Jiafeng old residence

House altar

Because it was among Miaoli’s earliest-settled areas and through the years has remained primarily rural, today’s Yuanli offers travelers a rich bounty of traditional Chinese sanheyuan, or three-sided courtyard residences.

Dongli Jiafeng is one of Taiwan’s best-preserved complexes, and is frequently used as a TV-drama set. This is a Hakka-clan compound, most clearly indicated in the tri-tier wall design: white-painted upper tier symbolizing the senior generation’s white hair, middle-tier red tiles the hard-working middle generation’s blood (plus sweat and tears), lowesttier rounded stones the hope for many children – i.e., “seeds.” This is a tourist-oriented attraction that has clan members still living here. Be sure to sample the tasty traditional snack treats baked and sold on-site.

Enjoy a glowing Taiwan Strait sunset at Yuanli Fishing Harbor, a tourist-oriented port where the star attractions are the Rainbow Bridge, fish market, seafood eateries, and breezy sea-view pavilions. The multicolored bridge, which sports a sleek and striking modernist design, is especially lovely at night with its many-hued lights on and the glowing solar orb behind. There’s a lively market auction each morn at 6am, and visitors can enjoy the fresh-catch results at the eateries, where fish-paste balls in soup is the signature dish.

DONGLI JIAFENG HISTORIC RESIDENCE ( 東里家風古宅 ) (037) 853-158 No. 8-1, Neighborhood 2, Yuankengli, Yuanli Township, Miaoli County ( 苗栗縣苑裡鎮苑坑裡 2 鄰 8 號之 1) MORE INFORMATION For more information on all destinations above, including transportation and other practical information, there's no better"home base" start-point than the Taiwan Tourism Bureau website, at taiwan.net.tw (Attractions section).

ENGLISH AND CHINESE Chuhuangkeng Historic Trail 出磺坑古道 Chuhuangkeng Suspension Bridge 出磺坑吊橋 Da'an River 大安溪 Fuji Village 福基村 Gongguan Farmers' Association Fuji Branch 公館鄉農會 ( 福基分部 ) Gongguan Township 公館鄉 Houlong River 後龍溪 Shiqiang Village 石墻村 Taiwan Oil Field Exhibition Hall 台灣油礦陳列館 Yuanli Fishing Harbor 苑裡漁港 Yuanli Township 苑裡鎮 Hakka granny

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3

1

13 6

72

Chuhuangkeng Suspension Bridge Gongguan Farmers’ Association Fuji Branch

128 128 61

Shiqiang Village

3

Yuanli Fishing Harbor

130

Taiwan Oil Field Exhibition Hall

121

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Jin Liang Shing (JLS) Brick Factory

3

121

Full Love Noodles

1

Dongli Jiafeng Historic Residence

1

72

13

1

Yuanli Triangle Rush Exhibition Hall

140

Luye Guan Yun Homestay

Chuhuangkeng Historic Trail

3

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1

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TR E A SU R E ISL A N D FO O DS / HOT-SPRING HOTEL CUISINE

Guguan and Tai’an Hot-Spring Soaking and Fine Dining in Central Taiwan TE X T M A RK CA LTONHILL

PHOTOS R AY MOND CHI A N

Quality hot-spring resorts in scenic settings can be found all around Taiwan, including at places like Tai’an and Guguan, in Miaoli County and Taichung City, respectively. Nestled in valleys surrounded by lush mountains, both locations are well-known for premier hot-spring hotels offering excellent bathing facilities and serving up fine hot-spring cuisine.

TR E A SU R E ISL A N D FO O DS / HOT-SPRING HOTEL CUISINE

I

f your idea of snack s while enjoying Taiwan’s famous hot springs is limited to purcha sing a ha lf-dozen eggs at a convenience store, placing them in some ste a m ing hot-spring pudd le t i l l t he y’re cooked, then peeling and munching them, preferably accompanied by a bottle or two of Taiwan Beer, then it’s time you expanded your horizons.

Fortunately, you’ll be in for a nice surprise. In fact, a few nice surprises. At least ten.

Hot-spring resort visits have long been a passion for the Taiwanese, and often make a cameo appearance (or even take centersta ge) during fa mily holidays, compa ny outings, trips to ancestral rural hometowns, and other occasions. But hot springs, by their very nature places where the Earth’s i n ner or g a n s i nter a c t w it h t he out side world, generally tend not to be found in larger conurbations. Hence, traditionally, they have not attracted top-notch chefs and gourmet diners. This is a shame, and at the very least represents a gap in the market, since sampling Taiwan’s local cuisine ranks

Suspension bridge in the Tai'an hot-spring area

Tai’an

high on the must-do lists of both domestic and foreign tourists alike.

With this in mind, over the last few years t he Ta iw a n Tou r i sm Bu re au h a s be en encouraging hotels and restaurants in the island’s hundred-plus hot-spring locations to up their game and, following positive results, last year held its inaugural Taiwan Top Ten Hot Springs awards, with a focus on fine hotspring cuisine.

Awards were given to hot-spring resort hotels in two culinary categories, “Chinese Banquet Dishes” and “Set Meals.” Naturally, Travel in Taiwan has been checking up on winning hotels since then, and for this issue looked for a volunteer to head to selected resorts in Miaoli County and Taichung City, to sample the health-giving springs, dine in splendor, and report back.

Who was I to refuse?

Two of Taiwan’s most popular hot-spring a rea s a re Ta i ’a n in Miaoli Count y a nd Guguan in the mountainous hinterland of Taichung City.

Enjoying a hot-spring bath in Tai'an

The Tai’an hot-spring area, located in Miaoli County’s Tai’an Township, had been known by a variety of names – indigenous, Chinese, and Japanese – until finally being given its current appellation (meaning something like “Great Peace”) by late-President Chiang Ching-kuo following a, presumably restful, visit in 1978.

Surrounded by fruit farms and densely tree-covered mountains, the area offers a wide range of hiking trails suited to all abilities. In spring it is a mecca for sakura viewing, while through all four seasons visitors can pick their own fruit and dine at a number of leisure farms. Moreover, since the local population is composed largely of indigenous Atayal and ethnic Hakka, Tai’an’s restaurants and hotels make great play of offering examples from their distinctive cuisines that are less widely available in other parts of Taiwan.

So, what better way to relax and refuel after a hard day’s up-hilling-and-down-daling than to engage in a little pampering: combining a fatigue-dispelling soak (Tai’an has odorless alkaline carbonate spring waters with a pH value of 8 and temperatures around 47 degrees Celsius), followed by some top-notch grub?

Among the hot-spring hotel operations in Tai’an offering fine cuisine are the Onsen Papawaqa (www.papawaqa.com.tw) and the Tangyue Hot Springs Resort (www.tangyue.com.tw).

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TR E A SU R E ISL A N D FO O DS / HOT-SPRING HOTEL CUISINE

Guguan The village of Guguan (lit. “Valley Barrier”) is located almost due south just a couple of dozen kilometers from the Tai’an hot-spring area, in Taichung’s Heping District. On an entirely different river system than Tai’an, it has similar carbonic spring waters (albeit slightly warmer at 48-60 degrees and slightly less alkaline at pH 7.6). It is similarly surrounded by afforested mountains, and is similarly populated by members of the indigenous Atayal group as well as descendants of Hakka who were drawn here centuries ago to work in the timber industry and clear land for farming.

The hot-spring area was first developed by the Japanese in 1907, during their colonial rule of Taiwan, and named the Meiji Hot Springs, after Emperor Meiji who ruled at the time.

In recent times, Guguan’s tourism suffered badly following the closure of a section of the Central Cross-Island Highway (Prov. Hwy. No. 8) east of Guguan because of damage caused by the 921 Earthquake in 1999 and Typhoon Mindulle in 2004, but has gradually improved with the concerted efforts of local hoteliers as well as departments in the Taichung and central governments. Moreover, the long-closed highway section, which is between Guguan and the mountain village of Lishan, is now being gradually reopened (currently open only to local buses and vehicles with special permits), and the number of visitors to this scenic mountain area are rising further.

Guguan thus seemed a good choice as my hot-spring cuisine destination, especially since the prominent Utopia Holiday Hotel, situated picturesquely on the far side of the gorge in which Guguan sits, garnered prizes in both the “Chinese Banquet Dishes” and “Set Meals” categories of the aforementioned hot-spring awards.

A spring shower was just ceasing as I stepped off the bus I had taken from Taichung’s high-speed rail station, and mist was drifting out of the trees covering the series of steep mountain slopes that disappeared into the distance like in a traditional Chinese ink-wash landscape painting.

Guguan straddles the long Dajia River gorge at one of its narrowest points (hence, presumably, the “barrier” name).

Every turn screams “selfie!”, from the gorge itself to the spring plum blossoms and maple trees to the 1,200-year-old, 36-meter-tall pine from which the Utopia gets its Chinese name (which means “Sacred Tree Valley Holiday Hotel”).

But I had more pressing matters. I headed to the hotel’s restaurant, which commands majestic views across and along the gorge. In fact, everything about the hotel design is geared to its magnificent location. The four Japanese-style rooms with hot tubs (advance booking is recommended), for example, are named Sunrise, Sunset, Tree, and River, after the views they offer.

At the restaurant I was introduced to the award-winning ten-courses-for-ten-diners banquet, which is kicked off with a glass of pine-tree sap. This is said to be rich in antioxidants, and certainly the slightly bitter flavor tastes like it must be doing good somewhere internally.

The first plate of food, seasonal fruit and cold cuts, is also designed with health in mind. In the spring these included 46

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Hot-spring pool with a view

Asparagus spears wrapped in fatty pork

Seasonal produce and cold cuts

TR E A SU R E ISL A N D FO O DS / HOT-SPRING HOTEL CUISINE

winter gourd flavored with passion-fruit juice (to stimulate the appetite), tree fungus (to reinvigorate the blood), beetroot-f lavored lotus root (the blood again), and some kind of untranslatable whelk (for chewiness, perhaps).

Next up is mysterious-looking rolls, which turned out to be asparagus spears (for their plethora of vitamins and minerals) wrapped in fatty pork from Yunlin County, to the south of Taichung, a surprisingly good combination, especially when dipped in the Hakka-style citrus sauce, which has a sour flavor that is offset with a slightly salty soy paste.

Third comes fillets of sturgeon reared at Songhe Village, just a stone’s throw downstream from Guguan. With another nod to the town’s Japanese inheritance, these have been cooked using a special Kyoto-style white miso paste, which gives soups less than half the salt of normal miso soups.

Fourth are seasonal vegetables in five different colors steamed in hot-spring water. In April they included maize, yam, pumpkin (good for the stomach and liver), zucchini (yes, I know, zucchini in Taiwan!), possibly the best steamed peanuts I’ve ever tasted, and “chestnut sweet potatoes” (nicknamed the Queen of Sweet Potatoes), another Japanese-inspired variety that have a nutty-colored skin. These really do taste of sweet chestnuts, and are so addictive that, since April, no other sweet potato has quite cut the mustard for me.

Fifth, as is typical in a banquet meal, is soup, in this case made with chicken slow-cooked with shitake mushrooms and burdock root and flavored with maqaw, commonly referred to as mountain pepper, a traditional indigenous spice.

Next comes a plate of vegetable tempura with perilla: deepfried eggplant, sweet potato, and green capsicum. This last turned out to be themselves stuffed with a fish, shrimp, and squid paste that was quite delicious, and one of the highlights of the meal.

Seventh is fried pork rib and king oyster mushrooms accompanied by a plum sauce, which was good but was nevertheless overshadowed by dish number eight, stuffed bamboo shoots, which put even the seafood-stuffed capsicum tempura in the shade. The stuffing contained the bamboo-shoot flesh, mushrooms, and gingko (for improved blood circulation and eyesight). The topping, a Japanese invention known as mentaiko, is pink-dyed fish roe.

Nine and ten are desserts: honey-cooked taro from Taichung’s Dajia Township, the most famous central Taiwan source of taro, and peaches from up the highway at Lishan, famed for its fruits and vegetables grown at over 2,000-meter altitude, where the plants turn more starch into sugar to avoid freezing at the frequent low night temperatures.

And how about a nice Taiwan Beer to accompany these more-than-boiled-egg snacks? Sadly, I was informed that alcohol and hot springs don’t really go well together.

There is a good choice of fruit juices or pots of tea available, however.

Seasonal vegetables in five different colors

UTOPIA HOLIDAY HOTEL ( 神木谷假期大飯店 ) (04) 2595-1511 www.utopia-holiday.com.tw No. 7, Hot Spring Lane, Sec. 1, Dongguan Rd., Heping District, Taichung City (台中市和平區東關路一段溫泉巷７號 ) GETTING TO GUGUAN Bus No. 153 runs from the Taichung high-speed rail station; No. 207 from the Fengyuan Railway Station; No. 850 from the Taichung Railway Station; and No. 266 from Dongshi District.

MORE INFO For more information about hot-spring bathing in Taiwan, visit www.taiwanhotspring.net .

ENGLISH AND CHINESE Atayal tribe 泰雅族 Central Cross-Island Highway 中部橫貫公路 Dajia River 大甲溪 Guguan 谷關 Lishan 梨山 maqaw 山胡椒 Meiji Hot Springs 明治溫泉 Onsen Papawaqa 泰安觀止溫泉會館 Tai'an 泰安 Taiwan Top Ten Hot Springs 台灣 10 大好湯

Honey-cooked taro and sweet peaches

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H A R BOR S A N D BE YON D / PENGHU

agong arbor M H Must-Visit Spots on Penghu’s Islands TE X T & PHOTOS V I S ION

The Penghu Archipelago, a group of islands situated in the Taiwan Strait, which separates the island of Taiwan from mainland China, is a popular offshore-island destination for cruise liners such as the Sun Princess, based in Keelung Port.

Following is a short overview of places to visit during a short stay on the islands.

M

agong is your port of call when arriving by cruise liner or by ferry from mainland Taiwan. Visitors who take an airplane will touch ground at Penghu’s airport, about 3km away from the small city and its harbor. The archipelago’s only city, Magong is the administrative, cultural, and business center of the islands. It’s easy to explore on foot, with many of its tourist attractions in close proximity to the harbor. For sights elsewhere on the three main islands that make up the core of Penghu, which are connected by bridge, you have the option of hiring a taxi, taking a bus, or renting a scooter (international driver’s license required). Bicycling is only an option if you have packed plenty of time and are prepared for the sometimes strong headwinds (during the winter months) and relentless sunshine (during the warmer months). To reach the smaller islands you need to take a ferry, leaving Magong Harbor for islands to the south, Baisha Harbor for those to the north, and Qitou Harbor for islands to the east of Baisha Island, one of the three interconnected main islands.

Zhongyang Street

Shanshui Beach

Sights in Magong

Penghu Beaches

Magong is an old city with a rich history. Wander through the quaint lanes and alleys in the city’s center to experience its old-time charm.

Among the highlights are narrow Zhongyang Street, lined with beautifully restored shophouses; the Tianhou Temple, Taiwan’s oldest temple dedicated to Mazu, the Goddess of the Sea; and the Four-Eyed Well, which in the past supplied Magong residents with drinking water. Head southwest of the city center, following Zhongshan Road, to come to the Shuncheng Gate, part of Magong’s old city wall. Walk further west past the gate and you’ll soon enter the Magong Cultural Center area, a great place to learn more about the city’s history and take photos in front of old walls and beautifully restored residences from Taiwan’s oldest former military-housing community.

If you have time for just one beach during your time in Penghu, make it Shanshui Beach on the southern coast of Penghu, the main island on which Magong is located. This wide golden-sand beach is very popular with tourists. You can play by and in the water (swim, surf, and snorkel), or just simply take in the great turquoise-water and golden-sand scenery. A connected pair of two other popular sandy beaches can be found just to the east of Penghu’s airport, Aimen and Lintou. Like many beaches in the archipelago, the fine sand here is of exceptional quality, and the beaches are, surprisingly, very quiet on most days of the year.

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Jibei Baisha Xiyu Magong 202 203

Wang’an

Magong Four-Eyed Well Tianhou Temple Magong Cultural Center

Penghu Airport

202

205

Penghu

Zhongyang Street Shuncheng Gate

Qimei

204

Lintou Beach 205

Aimen Beach 204

201 201

Shanshui Beach

Whale Cave

ENGLISH AND CHINESE Aimen Beach 隘門沙灘 Baisha 白沙 Daguoye Columnar Basalt 大菓葉柱狀玄武岩 Four-Eyed Well 四眼井 Lintou Beach 林投沙灘 Magong 馬公 Magong Cultural Center 媽宮文化城 Qimei 七美 Shanshui Beach 山水沙灘 Shuncheng Gate 順承門 Tianhou Temple 天后宮 Twin Hearts Stone Weir 雙心石滬 Wang'an 望安 Whale Cave 鯨魚洞 Xiyu 西嶼 Zhongyang Street 中央街 Twin Hearts Stone Weir

Basalt Rocks/Old Villages/Lighthouse

Smaller Islands

When looking at tourist brochures of Penghu, you’ll most likely see beautiful images of columnar-basalt rock formations. The most popular location for an up-close look at an impressive and photo-friendly wall of the basalt rock is the Daguoye Columnar Basalt on Xiyu Island, the westernmost main island. When visiting Xiyu (accessed via Baisha Island and the Penghu Great Bridge), be sure to also check out three other tourists sites: the Whale Cave, a sea-holed rocky promontory at the northernmost tip of the island; the Erkan Village, a dense collection of heritage houses in the island’s center; and the Yuwengdao Lighthouse, built in 1778 close to the island’s southwest end.

Penghu consists of a total of 90 islands and islets, of which 20 are inhabited. The ones tourists are most likely to visit are Qimei, Wang’an, Huayu, Hujing, and Tongpan to the south of Penghu’s main three islands, Jibei in the north, and Yuanbei and Niaoyu in the east. Taking the ferry from Magong to Wang’an and Qimei is highly recommended. Both islands are scenic and easy to explore (on e-scooters available for rent at the harbors). Qimei is best known for its iconic Twin Hearts Stone Weir.

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SM A R T TR AV EL

Modern and Smart Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport TE X T & PHOTOS V I S ION

T

aiwan Taoyuan International Airport is the main gateway to Taiwan. It’s the island’s most important airport and, due to its proximity to the capital, the entry point of choice for most international travelers visiting Taiwan. In recent times the airport has received major facelifts, and was expanded significantly with the building of Terminal 2 (opened in 2000). Terminal 3, currently under construction, is expected to be completed in 2023.

Being one of the busiest airports in the world (ranked No. 36 in passenger volume in 2018 according to the Airports Council International), Taoyuan International prides itself on being a modern facility offering state-of-the-art services.

Staying Connected

Free WiFi access throughout the airport ensures that travelers can get connected as soon as they arrive. Once you have access to the Internet, signing up for the free iTaiwan (itaiwan.gov.tw) service is highly recommended, because it gives you access to free WiFi through thousands of hotspots in public spaces around Taiwan.

If you wa nt to use a prepa id SIM card for your phone, follow the Telecommunication service signs in the a irpor t to f ind t he cou nters of such providers as Chunghwa Telecom, T STAR, Taiwan Mobile, and Far EasTone. Portable WiFi routers can also be rented there.

Smart Lockers

If your plan is to spend just a day or two in Taiwan, you might wonder if there is an easy way to store some of your luggage at the airport instead of hauling it all around while doing a bit of sightseeing.

While there is a luggage-storage counter at the airport, many travelers now opt for the smart lockers, available 24h a day. You can store luggage in these lockers for up to three days. The fee charged per each 3 hours is NT$40, $60, and $80, depending on the size of the locker.

is packed w it h a l l t he helpf u l a irpor t information a traveler could possible need, including info about departures/arrivals, the two terminals (restaurants/facilities), t r a n sp or t at ion (p a rk i n g / bu s /t a x i), shopping options, telecommunications, and other matters (easy language help, cu rrenc y c onver ter, we at her & t i me).

The app is available for iOS and Android d e v ic e s ; s i mply s e a rc h f or “ Ta oy u a n Internationa l A irport” in Apple’s App Store or in Google Play.

In-Town Check-In Service

Note that when leaving Taiwan it is possible (for selected airlines) to check in your luggage before taking the Taoyuan Metro line from Taipei Main Station to the airport.

The check-in counters are located right outside the entrance to the Taoyuan Airport MRT line’s Taipei Main Station (B1). There are three options to complete the checkin process: Online/Smartphone Check-In, Kiosk, and Check in at the counter. For more information, visit: www.taoyuan-airport.com/ ITCI/eng_html/index.html.

Self-help check-in machines

Airport App

There is an app for everything nowadays, it seems, and sure enough Taiwan’s No. 1 airport has its own app. Available in Chine se, Eng lish, a nd Japa ne se, t he Ta oy u a n I nter n at ion a l A i r p or t a pp

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Check-in at Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport

Tax-refund machines in the airport

Hotels of Taiwan North Taoyuan City

Taipei City

Keelung City

New Taipei City

Hsinchu City Hsinchu County

common is that serve and hospitality are always of the highest standards. The room

Central Nantou County

located in the countryside there is a place to stay that satisfies every traveler’s needs.

What all hotels of Taiwan — small and big, expensive and affordable — have in

Taichung City

Yunlin County

five-star luxury hotels that meet the highest international standards, to affordable business hotels, to hot-spring and beach resort hotels, to privately-run homestays

Yilan County

Miaoli County

Changhua County

Visitors to Taiwan have a wide range of choice when it comes to accommodation. From

rates in the following list have been checked for each hotel, but are subject to change without notice. Room rates at the hotels apply.

Hualien County

Chiayi City Chiayi County

Outlying island

Tainan City

Northern Taiwan Kaohsiung City

Taitung County

Central Taiwan

CAESAR PARK TAIPEI

East

Outlying island

HOTEL REVE TAICHUNG

DISCOVERY HOTEL

TAIPEI GALA HOTEL GLORIA PRINCE HOTEL TAIPEI

Pintung County

THE GRAND HOTEL

Eastern Taiwan ART SPA HOTEL

MADISON TAIPEI HOTEL

South

＊ Hotel list in alphabetical order from Northern to Southern Taiwan.

CAESAR PARK TAIPEI 台北凱撒大飯店

Taipei 台 北

No. of Rooms: 478 Room Rates: Superior Room Deluxe Room Superior Double Double Metro Room Metropolis Room Station Suite

NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$

8,500 9,500 11,000 13,000 14,000 18,000

(All rates are subject to 10% service charge.)

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English, Japanese, Chinese

RestauRaNts:

2F Checkers, 3F Dynasty Restaurant

sPecial featuRes:

e-Lounge, Banquet, Meeting Room, GYM, SPA, Roof Garden, Free Wi-Fi,Room Service, Laundry, Luggage Storage, Valet parking service

TAIPEI GALA HOTEL 慶泰大飯店

Taipei 台 北

GLORIA PRINCE HOTEL Taipei

THE GRAND HOTEL

華 泰 王子大 飯 店

圓山大飯店

Taipei 台 北

No. of Rooms: 160

No. of Rooms: 220

No. of Rooms: 500 (Suites: 57)

Room Rates: Single Room Deluxe Single Room Deluxe Triple Room Suite Room

Room Rates: Single / Deluxe / Executive NT$ Suite NT$

Room Rates: Single/DBL Suite

NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$

6,400 7,000 9,000 12,000

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English, Japanese, Chinese RestauRaNts: Golden Ear Restaurant (Western semi buffet); Golden Pot (Chinese Cuisine) sPecial featuRes: Business center, meeting rooms, airport transfer service, parking lot, laundry service, free Internet access, LED TV, DVD player, personal safety box, mini bar, private bathroom with separate shower & bath tub, hair dryer

6,000- 8,500 9,500-20,000

Taipei 台 北

NT$ 8,800-15,800 NT$ 22,000-36,000

(All rates are subject to 10% service charge.)

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English, Japanese, Chinese

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English, French, Spanish, and Japanese

RestauRaNts: L’IDIOT RESTAURANT & BAKERY (Western), CHIOU HWA RESTAURANT (Chinese)

RestauRaNts: Western, Cantonese, Northern China Style Dumplings, tea house, coffee shop, steak house

sPecial featuRes: Coffee Shop, Fitness Center, Business Center, Meeting and Banquet Facilities,Laundry Service, Non-smoking Floor, Parking Lot, Airport Transfer Service

sPecial featuRes: Grand Ballroom, conference rooms for 399 people, 10 breakout rooms, business center, fitness center, sauna, Olympic-size swimming pool, tennis courts, billiards

No. 186, Songjiang Rd., Taipei City 台 北 市 松 江 路 186 號 No. 38, Sec. 1, Zhongxiao W. Rd., Taipei City 台 北 市 忠 孝 西 路 一 段 38號 Tel: +886 -2-2311-5151 Fax: +886 -2-2331-9944 E-mail: info_tpe@caesarpark.com

Exit 1 of MRT Xingtian Temple Station on the Luzhou Line.

Tel: +886-2-2541-5511 Fax: +886-2-2531-3831 Reservation Hotline: +886-2-2541-6888 E-mail: reservation@galahotel.com.tw

No. 369, Linsen N. Rd., Zhongshan Dist., Taipei City 台北市林森北路3 6 9 號 Tel: +886-2-2581-8111 Fax: +886-2-2581-5811

No. 1, Chung Shan N. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City 台 北 市 中 山 北 路 4 段1號 Tel: +886-2-2886-8888 Fax: +886-2-2885-2885

taipei.caesarpark.com.tw

www.galahotel.com.tw

www.gloriahotel.com

www.grand-hotel.org

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MADISON TAIPEI HOTEL 慕軒飯店

Taipei 台 北

HOTEL RÊVE TAICHUNG

ART SPA HOTEL

威汀城市酒店

中冠礁溪大飯店

Taichung 台 中

Yilan 宜 蘭

DISCOVERY HOTEL 澎澄飯店

No. of Rooms: 124

No. of Rooms: 125

No. of Rooms: 54

No. of Rooms: 236

Room Rates: Classic Room Deluxe Room Oasis Room Madison Room Skyline Suite Madison Suite

Room Rates: Standard Double Room Business Double Room Family Queen Room Deluxe Family Suite Family Suite Executive Suite

Room Rates: Western-style Two Hot-Spring Double Room NT$ 6,600 Western-style Hot-Spring Double Room NT$ 6,600 Western-style Hot-Spring Four-Bed-Room NT$ 8,800 Japanese-style Hot-Spring Four-Bed-Room NT$ 8,800 Japanese-style Hot-Spring Six-Bed-Room 11,000 NT$

Room Rates: Discovery Park Double King Discovery Harbor Double King Loft Park King Loft Harbor Double Loft Season King Sunrise Villa House Villa House Luna Park Villa Suite Luna Sea Villa Suite

NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$

14,800 16,800 18,800 20,800 60,000 90,000

NT$ 5,200 NT$ 7,000 NT$ 8,000 NT$ 9,000 NT$ 10,000 NT$ 10,000

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English, Chinese

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English, Japanese, Chinese

sPecial featuRes: Workout Room, VIP Rooms, Underground Parking, Italian Restaurant, Whisky Bar

RestauRaNts: RÊVE Kitchen (6:30-10:30 Daily Breakfast)

- Recommended by Michelin Guide Taipei - Luxury City Hotel by World Luxury Hotel Awards - Top 10 Popular Hotels for Business Travelers by Hotels.com

(* All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: Chinese, English, Korean

sPecial featuRes: Business Center, Conference Room, Fitness Gym, Parking Lot, Laundry, Bike Renting, Free Wifi, Personal Electronic Safety Box

sPecial featuRes: Outdoor SPA pool, gym, business center, car park, Chinese restaurant

Penghu 澎 湖

NT$ 9,000 NT$ 10,000 NT$ 11,000 NT$ 12,000 NT$ 13,000 NT$ 14,000 NT$ 15,000 NT$ 23,000 NT$ 24,000

(* All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: Chinese,English RestauRaNts: Chenchen Dining (Full day restaurant), Lounge Bar sPecial featuRes: Fitness Center, Sauna, Outdoor Swimming Pool, SPA, Kid’s Play Ground, Outdoor Basketball Field, Parking, Banquet, Meeting Rooms, Free Wi-Fi, Laundry, Airport Transfer Service

No. 331, Sec. 1, Dunhua S. Rd., Taipei City 台 北 市 敦 化 南 路1 段 3 31 號 (8 minutes by foot from Exit 2 of MRT Xinyi Anhe Station or Exit 4 of MRT Da’an Station) CHM Central Reservations: +886-2-7706-3600 Tel: +886-2-7726-6699 Fax: +886-2-7726-9070 E-mail: guestservice@madisontaipei.com

No. 100, Sec. 1, Minsheng Rd.,Daya Dist., Taichung City 台 中 市 大 雅 區 民 生 路1 段1 0 0 號 Tel: +886-4-2568-0558 Fax: +886-4-2567-7134 E-mail: service@reve.com.tw

No. 6, Deyang Rd., Jiaoxi Township, Yilan County 宜蘭縣礁溪鄉德陽路6號 Tel: +886-3-9882011

No.168, Tonghe Road, Magong City, Penghu County 澎湖縣馬公市同和路168號 Tel: 06-923-5678

www.madisontaipei.com

www.hotel-reve.com.tw

www.art-spa-hotel.com.tw

www.discoveryhotel.com.tw

(* The hotel is about 15 minutes of driving from the airport.)

NT$1,300 NT$1,500

NT$1,500

3-Day Southern Taiwan Tour

NT$1,500

(Tainan, Kaohsiung, Kenting) (Taiwan High-Speed Rail – Bullet Train Ride) 三天二夜 台南 ˙ 高雄 ˙ 墾丁深度之旅 ( 含台灣高鐵體驗 )

NT$4,200 NT$1,200

NT$1,500

NT$1,300

(Stay at Sun Moon Lake)

(Stay at QingJing)

(Sun Moon Lake, Kaohsiung, Kenting) 四天三夜 台灣中南部觀光 ( 日月潭、高雄、墾丁 )

4-Day Eastern Taiwan Tour NT$6,600

NT$6,900

(Yilan, Hualien, Taitung) (Taiwan Railway Train Ride) 四天三夜 海岸、縱谷豐富之旅 ( 宜蘭、花蓮、台東 ) ( 含臺灣鐵路體驗 )

5-Day Round Taiwan Island Excursion NT$12,500

(All hotels are 5-star hotels) 五天四夜 台灣環島巴士之旅 ( 全程五星級旅館 )

Edison Travel Service specializes in Taiwan Tours and offers cheaper hotel room rates and car rental services (with drivers) .

Edison welcomes contact with other travel services around the world.

52

TR AVEL IN TAIWAN

台北市松江路 190 號 4F

4-Day Central & Southern Taiwan Tour

NT$1,500

NT$1,300

NT$14,500

NT$ 14,000

NT$ 15,500

NT$ 16,900 本廣告受交通部觀光局補助

View Beitou from the Side of Beitou Creek Imposing Atami Hotel Taipei Onsen stands tall on Guangming Road at the side of Beitou Creek, the gushing water of which has flowed unceasingly since time immemorial. Amidst unchanging scenery, the Atami Hotel has faithfully served its guests for over 40 years. Open the window of your room and hear the sound of the flowing water while breathing in the sulfur-scented air, creating a memorable Beitou moment you will remember fondly. 北投熱海溫泉大飯店 Atami Hotel Tel: (02) 2891-5161 Fax: (02) 2891-6741 Email: info@atamihotel.com.tw Add: No. 258, Guangming Rd., Beitou District, Taipei City (台北市北投區光明路258號) Website: www.atamihotel.com.tw Taipei City Hotel No. 014-1 (台北市旅館014-1號)

Guestrooms and Hot-Spring Water Compose a Sweet Song Enter the Atami Hotel and you will be greeted by a grand spacious lobby, the opulence reflecting our guest-first approach. The sunlight shining into the guestrooms tells of the attentive care we extend to each and every guest. In the hot-spring bathhouse, built using natural construction methods, where the sulfur scented air has been unchanged since ancient times, you can wash away the noise and hassle of the city, recharge your tired spirit, the guestrooms and the hot-spring water composing the uniquely and moving song of the Atami Hotel.