2007 Bowled Over by Bhutan

Bowled Over By Bhutan 2007 Travel Arrangements: Asia Transpacific Journeys

Author: Lois Olive Gray Photography: Kay Ellen Gilmour, MD Photo Album: www.kaygilmour.smugmug.com

INTRODUCTION There are many poetic names applied to this most beautiful country—Land of the Thunder Dragon being the most famous and Shangri-La being the most favorable. In addition, during our visit there we thought of some descriptive titles of our own—The Cloud Kingdom, The Quiet Dragon Land, and Valleys High being our own favorites. However, in the spirit of our frolicsome adventure there, I decided to name this chapter for our most unsettling experience in the nation.

Though English has one of the largest vocabularies of earth’s languages, even all its many adjectives cannot really convey the astonishing beauty of this tiny kingdom, lost in time among the majestic Himalayas. The country cries out for photographers and I was lucky enough to be traveling with three excellent ones. So while I struggled with my lack of adequate words to express the glory of the landscape, they aimed their lenses at everything—sky-aspiring mountains, velvet green valleys, torrential glacial rivers, small, tidy farms, sleepy towns, two & three story homes with the most amazing window and door-jamb designs, sturdy temples blazing with golden tops, colorful birds, flamboyant flowers, dense virgin forests, amazing insects and the wonderful, friendly and handsome Bhutanese people.

Many people, with no idea where this remote tiny kingdom is located, know that its monarch has declared his intention to measure the success of his governance, not by the Gross National Product but by its Gross National Happiness! By their own criteria, King Jigme Singye Wangchuk and his son the present King Jigme Khesar Namgyal Wangchukin have achieved a triumph beyond their own daring.

Several international organizations measure various societies according to many different

parameters,

but

all

find

in

surveys over

the

years that

Bhutanese people are the “happiest” on earth! The four goals for attaining a high GNH score are: 1) promotion of equitable and sustainable socio-economic development, 2) preservation and promotion of cultural values, 3) conservation of the natural environment and 4) establishment of good governance. In our 10-day visit, we saw and were impressed by this country’s commitment to these goals.

Evidence of their efforts will be revealed as the story of our visit progresses.

Contents COUNTRY FACTS................................................................................................................. 1 RELIGION .......................................................................................................................... 1 GOVERNMENT .................................................................................................................. 2 ACCIDENTS ....................................................................................................................... 5 ARCHITECTURE ................................................................................................................13 ARCHERY - THE NATIONAL SPORT..........................................................................................20 WHAT ELSE MAKES BHUTAN DIFFERENT? ...............................................................................22 INDIAN ROAD WORKERS ....................................................................................................25 TOURISM .........................................................................................................................28 THE NATIONAL UNIFORM ......................................................................................................29 EDUCATION ...................................................................................................................32 PERSONAL NAMES ...........................................................................................................33 WOMEN’S RIGHTS .............................................................................................................33 NATURAL RESOURCES .......................................................................................................33 HIGHWAYS & BYWAYS .........................................................................................................34 THE COUNTRYSIDE ...........................................................................................................35 THE HIMALAYAS.................................................................................................................39 THE QUIET NATION ..............................................................................................................40 THE WARM AND COURTEOUS PEOPLE ..................................................................................41 LOIS’ BIRTHDAY PARTY ........................................................................................................41 IS BHUTAN MEETING ITS FOUR “HAPPINESS” GOALS? ............................................43 BANGKOK.......................................................................................................................47

COUNTRY FACTS

To begin, let me recall some of the fascinating facts about Beautiful Bhutan. The country is landlocked by India on three sides and China on its northern border. It is relatively small in size, 36,420 square miles--Florida is 65,728 sq. miles. Its population is small, around 700,000, with a median age of 20. Life expectancy for Bhutanese people has reached 61 years for males and 64 years for females.

The ethnicity of Bhutanese people is divided among three major groups: 50% Bhotes (people of Tibetan origin who migrated into what is now Bhutan in the 9th century), 35% ethnic Nepalese people who came much later—probaby lin the 18th century, and 15% the indigenous peoples (3 main tribes) of Mongolian heritage whose origins are unclear but whose entry into the land is generally held to be around 2000 B.C. The Nepali and Tibetan peoples are pretty completely intermixed, but there has been relatively little intermarriage with the indigenous peoples by the other Bhutanese.

RELIGION In religion, 75% of the peoples are Buddhists and Buddhism is the state sponsored religion. The remaining 25% are Hindus. There are elements of animistic practices among the indigenous peoples as well as their being intermixed with Buddhism and Hinduism. Only Buddhist temples are permitted in the country, but the Hindus are not suppressed in their religious practices. The King participates in both Buddhist and Hindu rituals and holidays.

Many Buddhist temples contain statues of Hindu gods and goddesses, like Ganesha and Lakshmi; therefore, many Hindus feel quite comfortable in those temples. After all, Buddha reached enlightenment among the Hindus of India and preached his first sermon in Sarnath, India! Buddhism penetrates every aspect of a Bhutanese life. They are devout and deeply spiritual. Buddhism determines names given to children, dates of acceptable marriage, chosen partner for marriage. Houses are blessed by religious figures on a yearly basis.

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Prayer flags are everywhere. No Bhutanese person would pass a prayer wheel without twirling it. Offerings are made regularly in the temples by the common people. The very land itself is considered mystical and sacred because lamas and holy men sat under this tree, or created an impression in stone with their bodies over there, and monasteries are situated like eagle’s aeries on high mountain shoulders overlooking the valleys because a holy man meditated in a cave there or had a vision on that craggy outcropping. The lamas and gurus who brought Buddhism to Bhutan are venerated but also seem as real to the people as if they were living in the land today. Thus, echoes of its past are actually very present in Bhutan today.

GOVERNMENT For the immediate present, the government of this country is an absolute monarchy (with power shared somewhat unequally between the King and the Je Kempo, national head of Buddhism). However, in 2008 the country will peacefully transform itself into a constitutional monarchy with a legislative body elected by the people. At present, the King’s advisory council is appointed by him as are all other officials, including judges. There is a National Assembly elected by the people, but its power at present is very limited. This monarchy is only 100 years old, having been formed under pressure from the British in 1907. Prior to that time, the country was divided into several hereditarily ruled districts led by constantly contentious warlords. The British wanted stability in Bhutan as a buffer between China and their own colony, India. They strongly suggested that the richest and most powerful of these warlords (the Wangchuks of Trongsa district) become the leader of a centralized government.

Surprisingly, the Bhutanese people agreed peacefully to this suggestion and the first monarch was crowned. He had authority over the internal affairs of the country while Britain control foreign relations and provided border security. In l947, when India gained its independence from Britain, it assumed the same relationship with the Bhutanese government. Even today, India supplies 3/5s of Bhutan’s operating budget and military protection of the borders. Since l971 (when Bhutan won admission to the United Nations) it has been fully 2

independent in foreign affairs as well as internal governance but it is very much in the interest of the Bhutan government to remain on friendly terms with India because of the monetary dependence and because India is its major trading partner.

The 4th King of Bhutan astounded his fellow citizens, and the world, when he abdicated at age 42 in favor of his young son, the as yet uncrowned 5th king.

He informed his people that he wanted the government to progress to democracy with a constitution. He believed that a younger man could be more forward looking and could more easily carry out this design.

His young son has been ruling the country since that time (about two years ago). It is planned (with Buddhist blessings) that the transition to a constitutional monarchy will occur in 2008 along with the king’s coronation and the election

of

a truly

representative

assembly

with

legislative

powers.

The

people consider the year and the celebrations auspicious, both religiously and historically, since 2008 will be the 100th anniversary of the monarchy. Kelzang, our guide, expressed great confidence in the wisdom of the young king and his optimistic father because they have already demonstrated their excellent governance and their concern for the Bhutanese people. He is pleased that the newly crowned king will initially have greater power than in a traditional constitutional monarchy because he believes that it is right that the complete transition should take place gradually In most of his talks with us about the government, Kelzang described the kings of the country as rulers with the good of the people always at heart. He approved the government’s avuncular role (maybe even paternalistic) in creating laws that protect the people from mistakes and harm, such as forbidding the housing of livestock on the lower floor of their homes as was the practice in the past and in forbidding the top attic floor being used as a hayloft because of fire risk. He liked the fact that government requires childhood vaccinations (as well as paying for them) to prevent disease in the population.

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He was very much in favor of the government control of logging in the country, for the preservation of the virgin forests and the valuable trees for all the Bhutanese.

He was much in accord with the king’s requirement that all returning students

who have

been

studying

in

other

countries

participate in

a

reorientation program so that they will not forget the traditions and practices of their own country. He even professed himself to be comfortable with the royal decree that Bhutanese men and women wear their national dress when acting as representatives of the country, even in casual ways. Probably his view is shared by most of the people who will feel more confident if the king continues to make the big decisions that affect the welfare of his people—their Gross National Happiness—at least for a while longer.

We had 10 days to explore this happy and beautiful country and we wanted to see everything possible during that time. We climbed to monasteries sitting out on rocky precipices, struggled spraddle-legged across many swinging bridges, climbed awkward stiles, remove our shoes to enter temples domains,

sampled

the

fiery

with the ubiquitous

chili

peppers

and

their

sacred

Bhutanese specialties (everything is cooked always decorating

the rooftops of the

homes while they are drying), sought repose in surprisingly comfortable and luxurious

hotels,

gaped

at

sublime

landscapes,

and

attempted

to

learn

something of the amazingly convoluted history of the country and its unique practice of Buddhism.

We enjoyed the company of a charming and educated young guide, Kelzang, and our excellent driver, Tschering, a man with 15 years experience in driving the treacherous roads of Bhutan and Northern India. He was completely unflappable and never frightened us even once!

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ACCIDENTS So how did a burro get into the story? He actually appears during the first full day of our stay in Bhutan.

After having flown through the alarming mountain maze that the airplane must thread to reach the 6000 ft. Paro Valley, we had one night to rest before beginning our first hike to the 13,000 ft. Tiger’s Nest Monastery. However, our dreams that night were filled with the memories of the glorious views we had of Mount Everest on the flight in. The mountain was in clear view-- no clouds hiding its lofty head—against a bright blue sky. What a view to excite the imagination and enter the soul of any lover of mountains!

The Paro Valley is a narrow defile and the low hillsides seem almost to touch the wings of the Drukair plane as we passed. The hanging rags of clouds decorated the valley but also added to the suspense of the approach to the airport itself. But the pilots for the national airline are experienced in this approach and do it twice daily. So we relaxed and enjoyed our Everest scenery

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Anyway, back to the burro! The next morning after arrival, we three women awoke to begin the climb to the Tiger’s Nest. Dan had arrived from Tibet feeling a tad under the weather and had decided to rest at the luxurious Uma Hotel rather than exhaust himself with the climb. We reached the staging area where the hike itself begins at about 9:30 a.m. and started out, filled with happy anticipation (Micki) and some anxiety (Kay & Lois anyway).

The way up was steep but the scenery was lovely and we were charmed by the prayer flags and the prayer waterwheels we passed. However, it became clear pretty quickly that Kay and I were not enjoying the climb at all.

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We were breathless and exhausted long before we should have been. The altitude really punished us. When we reached the little restaurant about two/thirds of the way to the top, we told Micki that we were most definitely not having any fun and had decided to wait for her and Kelzang right there with the wonderful views of the monastery. Micki, having come from the base camp of Everest in Tibet just the day before, was fully acclimatized and had no trouble at all completing the ascent to the Tiger’s Nest. After Micki and Kelzang headed off to finish the hike, Kay and I decided to walk on up at a slow pace on our own.

We had completed a couple of switchbacks upward when we heard thundering hooves. We knew that tourists and pilgrims could make the ascent atop small mules/burros but that no one could descend on their backs. The animals would be riderless we knew; however, we assumed they were under the control of the guides or wranglers.

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Where we were at the time of our burro encounter was at a divide in the trail around a little hill of rocks. We hurriedly climbed up the coarse granite hillock, assuming that the burros would flow around us as they continued to descend. That is not how one of the animals saw his path at all! He decided

to

come

right

over

the

granite rocks

and

go straightaway

to

grazing on the trailside. He jumped up and scrambled over the boulders coming directly at Kay. His shoulder caught her backpack and lifted her completely off her feet. She fell but luckily was not trampled by his flying hooves.

However, she rolled down the hill and landed face down on the gravelly trail.

The “attacking” burro was by that time calmly grazing on the vegetation that lined the outer edge of the trail (those bushes and shrubs prevented Kay from rolling on down the hillside).

All this happened in slow motion, of course, and by the time Lois had clambered down to reach her, Kay was already assessing the damage to her person. She was very lucky indeed because she had not broken any bones; however, she looked as though she had been knocked over by a burro! Her face was scraped deeply and her glasses were bent quite out of alignment. Her right arm had been torn and almost skinned by the rough granite from elbow to wrist.

She had smaller cuts and gashes on her other arm and her legs were badly bruised. After realizing that she was not broken, she was terribly anxious about her camera which took some of the brunt of the fall too since it was secured at her waist on the belt she was wearing.

It was fortunate that we had brought the first-aid kit along on the hike because we were able to wash all the cuts and open places clean of dirt and gravel with soap and water. Then we applied an antibiotic ointment to all the raw areas and covered them with gauze.

By this time, the Bhutanese handler arrived and figured out something untoward had happened though whether he ever knew exactly what is problematic. He spoke no English and of course we spoke no Drongzah. At first he seemed to be offering Kay a ride on one of the burros but we knew that was not usual. Then it appeared that he wanted her to punish the burro by socking it in the jaw. That 9

seemed a foolish thing to do since it would not change anything; the animal had not deliberately attacked her, and she would probably have gotten a swift kick for her pains. We finally got him to go on down the hill with his three burros and we could only hope that he exacted no reprisal on the burro.

Slowly we descended the trail ourselves and then were content to wait at the cafeteria for Micki and Kelzang. They were pretty shocked when they saw how beaten up Kay looked but she was really all right despite the trauma and the shock of her meeting with the burro. So we all completed the hike back down listening to Micki’s triumph on the trail up to the Tiger’s Nest. We were very proud of her and happy that she had made the entire trek.

The Tiger’s Nest is a beautiful monastery with a breathtaking view of the Paro Valley another reward for the climb.

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The next day, Kay was pretty sore but surprisingly quite well. In the ensuing days, we were very pleased to see that she never suffered infection in any of the sites and her camera seemed to be functioning normally. Quite an eventful first day in the country for sure! And it certainly wouldn’t be our last fascinating day there.

On the 3rd day of our Bhutanese adventure, I was the accident victim. This time, no manic animal could be blamed for the mishap. It was my own loss of attention. We climbed to the Tango Monastery outside Thimphu on a beautiful morning and all of us felt terrific; Kay & I were over the jet lag and had acclimatized sufficiently to enjoy a hike to 10,000 ft.. Dan was over the malaise he had brought from Tibet and ready for an invigorating walk in the pine forests up to this home of the 12th incarnation of one of the Bhutanese lamas. He is currently 15 years old and he did not give us an audience despite our march to his home.

Monks were taking a holiday and we met many of them coming down the path towards their town visit. Buddhist faithful families were climbing up with us to

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make sacrifices and perform prayers at the monastery. The trails were busy and colorful with flowers and beautiful red- orange monk robes, and many manifestations of the national costume on the ladies and gentlemen carrying babies and tending youngsters. It was a wonderful day and experience to be sharing with the Bhutanese people.

We enjoyed the climb and were entranced with the wonderful people and the stunning Tango Monastery itself. The monastery was built on the high mountain terrace because a lama had a vision here as he rested on his trip from Tibet.

He dreamed that a horse would appear who would carry him on the remainder of his travels and he saw the horse’s head clearly in his dream. Tango means Horsehead in Drongzah. The monastery has another claim to uniqueness as well. It has a rounded outer wall to the main building The windows are framed like the other such structures in the country but that semi-circular wall is a singular piece of construction. The whole experience of the climb and seeing the beautiful monastery had us all bubbling over with enthusiasm as we descended in laughter and joy. Less than 50 feet from the bottom of the trail where our van awaited us, I got to talking too enthusiastically, forgot about my footing, and slipped on a very muddy patch in the path, twisting my ankle really badly.

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I gimped my way to the van and Kay used more of her first aid materials to bind my ankle, hoping to reduce the swelling that was sure to come. I took aspirin and kept the hiking boot on, again with the hope that the swelling would be less. Then we drove on into Thimphu for more sightseeing. I wish I could report that my inattention was no more troublesome than a little discomfort and some slight puffiness but that would be less than candid.

Unfortunately, a very severe sprain was the result and the disability it caused me continued throughout the trip. Walking up steps was actually the easiest part of the trip, hiking the next least problem, but going down steps was a misery because my ankle was weak and very painful on the downgrades. As I was to learn to my sorrow, so much of sightseeing in Southeast Asia is climbing up and down stone stairs—to visit temples, monasteries, museums, ruins, hotels, restaurants, getting into boats. It really was an inconvenience of the first water, but it could have been so much worse—like a fracture. So I didn’t complain and refused to let it stop me from going anywhere and everywhere anyone else did.

ARCHITECTURE We were surprised to see how different the building style in Bhutan is compared to what we had seen in Nepal, Tibet and India—the nearest influences. Typical Bhutanese homes are two or three storeys, made of bamboo, mud and bricks with an overlay of stucco. The houses are usually white or beige and often have complicated paintings of mythical animals, phalluses, demons, and flowers decorating the outer walls. All houses have elaborate external window and door treatments, with enlarged frameworks surrounding the openings.

Those frameworks are wooden constructions of angular design and bright colors. The uniformity of this architectural style is quite striking; the impression is quite unlike our country, where you might have a log cabin next to a colonial, or a federal style sitting close by a rancher. Each Bhutanese home, whether old or a just built apartment dwelling, will have a room or portion of a room dedicated to a chapel where statues are displayed, prayers are said, and offerings are made.

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Another curious discovery we made was that each dwelling place, even those without indoor plumbing in the country, have a little anteroom which is a latrine area—however, it is used only religious figures when they visit for the annual blessing of the home or if they are summoned because someone is ill and needful of blessings and prayers.

Monasteries, temples and dzongs share these characteristics too so they add to the organic appearance of the Bhutan architecture; all the buildings look as if they belong here and nowhere else. The dzongs are structures unique to Bhutan and reflect the close alliance of political governance and the Buddhist religion. Each of the twenty districts of Bhutan is administered by a local governor (penlop) whose offices are housed in half the dzong. Theother half of the building contains the religious authority and a monastery. The doublepurposed building thus demonstrates the dual nature of Bhutanese governance.

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These buildings are impressive in size compared with other structures in their districts. They share the ornate window treatments and the construction style.

The walls are very thick and taper inward as they rise. In addition, they are crowned with shining, gold or brass, multi- layered roofs with pagoda-like projections from the topmost portion. These buildings are always covered in white stucco.

No paintings adorn their exterior walls. Inside the religious portion of the dzong there is always a temple that can only be entered barefoot. Local citizens, both male and female, must also add a shawl (for men) or a wide ribbon (for women) to their official costume in order to go inside the temple. There is always a complex altar, sometimes with representations of the Buddha in one or more of his many incarnations, or of a local divinity, or of the bringers of Buddhism to Bhutan, as well as of important saints and lamas. There are always candles, flowers, and water vessels adorning these altars.

Most of the dzongs also contain a monastery with a school for the education of young people who wish to be monks. Housing for the monks and the students is also within the dzong compound. In the past, this monastery education was the only formal course of study open to young Bhutanese boys. Here they learned to translate the Sanskrit gospels and writings of the many religious figures important in Bhutanese life. They were taught the rituals, dances, prayers, and chants through which their devotion to Buddhist principles are demonstrated.

Even today, some youngsters are placed in these schools rather than the free public schools and they learn much the same things as their ancestors. Kelzang lamented the fact that the monastery education did not prepare the students for life outside the monastery community if they chose to leave on reaching age We visited so many dzongs and temples that they all began to blend in our memories. Some have been more

newly refurbished, some are more

ancient and show their great age, some sit in the valley towns, others follow the twisting topography of a mountain ridge, one even floats on the point where two mighty rivers join in a tumultuous confluence.

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The dzongs date from the 14th century but temples can originate from the 7th century. But

since

dzong and

temple visiting

is best “reported”

in

photography, I will not try to describe and name each of the wonderful edifices we visited. Suffice it to say, we admired the architecture and enjoyed the visits immensely and found each one intriguing, foreign, and in many ways mystifying as we are not really very conversant with Buddhism and its many myths and rituals.

Visits to two of these dzong-based monasteries provided deeply moving and revelatory experiences for us. At the Thimphu Dzong, we heard chanting and bellringing wafting across the central courtyard as we entered. We made some stops at paintings and statues so Kelzang could explain them to us but gradually the music became a strong magnet pulling us to follow the sounds. We were allowed to go into the temple (barefooted) but not to use cameras. We sat alongside the altar a little removed from it while a yellow-robed lama on a raised throne and his fellow monks in red were spread on the floor in rows in front of the altar, which was adorned with fruit, flowers and water vessels.

The monks were intoning in monotones while drums beat a cadence and the temples bells were jangling discordantly. Kelzang explained to us that the monks were saying special prayers for the head abbot who was in Bangkok undergoing surgery for a life-threatening condition. We sat on the floor with our legs folded beneath us (uncomfortable after only a short time) listening.

At last, the monks began using the strange “throat singing” we had heard before in recordings. At the same time, larger drums came out and the long (3 yards) horns whose bells actually must rest on the floor were sounded. The throat singing is very unusual and difficult to describe because it is so guttural yet musical. The tones produced are very low, much lower than the lowest operatic bass you have ever heard, and very throaty and almost growly.

But the ceremony must have produced something miraculous because as the cacophony reached its greatest stridency, a flight of pure white pigeons rose up from the courtyard and flew towards the heavens. Perhaps, the Chief Abbot was blessed with a successful recovery. However, of course, we would never know the actual outcome, but we preferred to believe that version of the experience.

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The other wondrous experience occurred at the Jakar Dzong. We walked to the dzong as evening was coming on. In the large central courtyard of the monastery half, we saw some monks milling about, laughing and talking quietly.

Then we saw the temple bells and the drums being brought out into the courtyard as the three groups of monks began to look on expectantly.

The monks were arranged in different ages: young children, teens, and young adults up into their 30s perhaps.

We realized that something unannounced was about to occur. Kelzang quickly ascertained that we had happened upon a rehearsal for an important religious festival that would take place in about three weeks.

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First, the youngest monks performed their dances to the accompaniment of the bells and drums. They were charming in their intensity and determination to get the steps correct.

Occasionally, we could see one young fellow with an extra something in his performance, an agility or grace beyond that of the others. Then teenagers emerged from the dormitory and began their practice session. Of course, they were more polished than the children, but again there was a discernible difference in talent and enthusiasm among the youngsters. At last, the young adults were in the courtyard and then magic happened. They were swirling and posturing and performing the most complicated foot and hand movements and positions. Their faces were transformed with the joy of dancing and the fervor of their faith. The 18

dissonant musical accompaniment grew louder and more frenzied but the young monks kept pace and never lost their artistry. It was a truly moving experience to watch these devout men practice the time-honored dances with such elegance, ardor and accomplishment.

One of the most fascinating things about Bhutanese Buddhism is the fact that there is no Supreme Being in the religion—Buddha is certainly venerated and respected for his spiritual achievements, but he is not worshiped in the sense that Christians understand worshipping their God. Rather, Buddha in all his guises is viewed as a supreme model and exemplar for human beings to follow in their own quest for Nirvana—release from samsara—the endless reincarnation cycle which returns all creatures to this world of unavoidable suffering. The only way to free oneself from this “wheel” is to attain enlightenment by following the precepts set down by Buddha and his many lamas and priests. These monastery festivals with music and dance bring devotion to Buddhist principles close to the people 19

and make real to them the teachings of the Buddha.

ARCHERY - THE NATIONAL SPORT

Because the country is unique in so many ways, we were not surprised to find that the national sport is such a singular one: archery. There are two types practiced: 1) traditional bamboo bows

constructed with natural materials

available in the country and 2) modern composition bows (titanium, etc.) like those used in the Olympics. Teams are fielded by every village as well as by the bigger cities.

Archery contests occur every day in some part of the country. The “natural bows” and the “composition bows” are not used together in these contests however. The most amazing things about archery here in Bhutan are the diminutive size of the targets (about 1-foot square) and the distance between the shooting line and the target (from 100 to 150 yards)! A bulls-eye scores 3 points, hitting the target at all earns 2, and closest ground shot to the target gets 1 point. The teams and the spectators interact with much cheering and dancing when good shots are produced. There is always a scoreboard alongside the archery field to indicate how the shooting is progressing.

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We were thunderstruck at the confidence teammates exhibit when one of their number is shooting

They stand right next to the target until the very last moment before the arrow arrives, only then leaping away. And remember, these archers are shooting at tiny targets ever so far away! Women do not shoot and it would appear that it is chiefly men who form the enthusiastic crowds watching the contests. We enjoyed observing archery contests in several towns and cities. It seemed to us that Bhutan should do very well in the archery competitions of the Olympics since they excel at these distances which are longer than those required in the Games.

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WHAT ELSE MAKES BHUTAN DIFFERENT? The national animal is the takin a bovine species existing nowhere else in the world. It looks a little like a bison, but it is smaller. The color of its coat is yellowishbrown and it is luxuriously curly. The takin’s face is rather sweet but not particularly intelligent looking. Both male and female have swept-back horns, though the males are quite a bit more formidable.

The takin is connected with one of the most important lamas in Bhutanese history: the “Divine Madman,” Lama Drukpa Kunley. It is said that he actually created the takin from the skeleton of a cow and the head of a goat—one of his many miracles to convince the people of his powers. As a possible support for this theory of the animal’s origin, even today taxonomists are befuddled as to exactly where the takin should be placed among the cow-like and/or goat- like creatures, and some question if it is actually either one!

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Males can reach 1000 pounds with females attaining weights around 600 lbs. In the higher mountains where the takin lives, he had been a food source for humans in the distant past, but killing them is now forbidden and that ban is easily upheld because of his association with Lama Kunley. There are very few left, however, because of habitat loss and changing climate. The government is taking steps to breed them in captivity for later re- introduction into their natural habitats. That program is what allowed us to see the creatures up close when we visited one of the government compounds where they are being raised.

Other wildlife we were lucky enough to see were the unexpected musk deer with its long fangs in the upper jaw—isn’t that a surprising thing? Deer with fangs?

The musk deer has a reddish coat and is about the size of the white-tailed deer we see in our own country. But those fangs do set him off as something pretty special. When we went to the Valley of the Black-Necked Cranes, we saw a red fox in the dwarf bamboo forest—no black-necked cranes however. We were too early to see them arrive since they usually come in December. However, the fox was a wonderful substitute. He looked just like our own red foxes.

The antic Tarai gray langurs also made an appearance for us, along a roadside sitting on guardrails. However, as soon as we slammed to a stop for closer observation, they leapt into the trees that march

down

the

steep

mountainside.

With

our

binoculars and long lenses we could view them easily anyway. They have completely black faces surrounded by a luxurious white ruff that makes them appear to be wearing large lacy collars, like the first Queen Elizabeth. Their bodies are covered with soft-looking, thick gray fur and the pads on their hands and feet are black like their faces. We observed them for quite some time as they dined on leaves and jumped from branch to branch with such elegant ease.

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Bhutan also supports Himalayan Spectacled Bears, Snow Leopards, tigers, and martens, but we were never anywhere near where these rare and reclusive species would be found. There are small hut-like structures on stilts in many fields so that when monkey predation on the crops becomes too bold and too destructive, the farmer moves into the hut so that he can physically prevent their depredations.

Because of the Buddhist reverence for life, the monkeys and birds are not maimed or killed, merely frightened away. What Buddhist can be sure that the monkey he attacks is not a relative returned to life in a lower animal form?

INDIAN ROAD WORKERS Despite being an agrarian, subsistence farming society for the most part, Bhutanese people have a decided dislike for the physically demanding work of road-building and pretty much refuse to take part in the constant roadwork going on in the country. The Bhutanese unembarrassedly believe that such work is beneath them.

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For this reason, the government contracts with Indian companies which hire whole families of Indians living in the northernmost states of India, particularly Assam, to perform the necessary road construction and repair. These folks must have no prospects at all in their home states because they are eager to get these onerous jobs which pay so very little and offer such pitiful living conditions.

The workers are paid $2.00 a day and given only bamboo mats with which to construct their flimsy shelters. No food allowance is given as well as no health care or education for the young children who accompany their parents. The contracts are usually for 10 months after which time, the Indians must go back home. They are not offered any means by which to seek Bhutanese citizenship.

The women work as hard as the men, often with very young children in tow along the roadsides where they seem in imminent danger of being run over. The basic work is the creation of gravel by smashing larger boulders and rocks.

26

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What backbreaking labor, with little or no machinery to help! This is grunt work of the most basic kind and whole families are engaged in it. While we visited, it was really very hot and the roads were thick with dust so that the poor Indians were constantly breathing in air that must be filled with particles injurious to their lungs. What must their lives be like back in India that they would eagerly accept these jobs?!

More distressing still is the contempt

with which these

poor

folks are

considered and treated by the Bhutanese citizens. In all candor and with no shame whatever, our polite and considerate guide informed us that the Indians are just not equal to the Bhutanese.

One day he was telling us that when addressing each other, Bhutanese people customarily add the syllable “la” to a greeting when meeting others. For instance, when we met monks coming down mountain paths, Kelzang would say in Drongzah, “Good Morning, la.” He would use that construction in greeting both men and women. As part of our efforts to understand the place of the Indians in the Bhutanese society, we asked him if he would use that term of respect when addressing an Indian, either male or female, young or old.

He

looked thoroughly

confused

and

a

bit

surprised but

he

answered,

“Certainly not.” However, he became quiet and it appeared that he had never considered the implications of that “linguistic” condescension before! So Shangri-La does have a dark side after all; only the Bhutanese are entitled to participate in the Gross National Happiness.

TOURISM Bhutan strictly controls tourism in its efforts to contain contamination from outside influences. By charging relatively high prices and requiring that all visitors have Bhutanese guides and drivers, the government restricts the number of tourists each year. In 2007, Bhutan would allow only 17,000 visitors in all. No independent backpackers such as Nepal has hosted over the years are permitted here. The plan is to permit 21,000 to visit in 2008! So we realized that we were in a very select group by being able to visit this marvelous place. It has only been in the last 15 years that television was allowed and foreign movies are still not shown in 28

Bhutan (it has its own movie industry to produce films for home consumption).

Foreign movies are available to rent for home use. Of course, the Internet (there are many Cyber-Cafes all around the country) and the ubiquitous cell phones are quickly silting in the artificial “moat” that has protected the little skycastle kingdom for so long.

THE NATIONAL UNIFORM

The retention of and emphasis on the national costume is certainly one of the strands in the fabric of Bhutanese society that strengthens its amazing homogeneity. The man’s “goh” is a one-piece, short-skirted, rather kilt-like, outfit that also features long sleeves with very wide (usually white) cuffs. Fabrics are seasonal with lighter materials being used in summer and heavier wool cloth 29

used in winter. But, whatever the season, the men favor bright colors, plaids and stripes though gray and navy blue are often seen as well. The goh is fashioned from a single strip of cloth and is wrapped around the body, similar to the wrapping Indian women employ in securing their saris. The outfit is held in place by means of cloth belts of different designs but always wrapped very tightly around the waist to prevent unfolding of the garment. The ensemble is completed with long knee socks and shoes, usually a loafer-type in black or brown.

The patterns on the socks usually have no correspondence with the colors of the goh’s fabric. The men, young and old, slim and a bit thicker, all look very well turned out in these uniforms. (In reality, we saw no overweight people in Bhutan and no really skinny ones either). Older men are usually heavier than young ones, but they have not run to obesity.

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The “kira” is the dress of the women and it too is a garment made of one piece that is wrapped around the body and held in place by a belt. Two large brooches, usually gold in color, hold the shoulder sections in place. The biggest difference is that this garment reaches the ankle rather than stopping at the knee as the goh does. The women top their kira with a short, fitted jacket with long sleeves and cuffs. They too like bright patterns and embrace plaids and stripes most often with the jackets being made of a solid color. Both men and women can use their cuffs for carrying things or slip items against their torsos for ease of transport. Older women wear their hair cut fairly short and younger ones show ponytails or loose-hanging hair on girls. Men most often are seen sporting Western-style haircuts. Even little boys and girls heading for school dress in the national uniforms on Fridays. This practice lends further to the cohesiveness of the society.

Head coverings during the summer are pretty much non- existent but in the higher elevations we did see both men and women in knitted “toboggan” type caps. Occasionally, we would see both men and women working in the fields wearing an almost flat circular bamboo hat on their heads for protection from the very intense sunlight.

Bodily adornment, such as jewelry, does not seem to be very popular among either men or women. But older folks carry their “rosary” beads with them.

Certainly, the monks do not wear any decorations at all and they keep their heads shaved. Even Buddhist nuns shave their heads and they wear robes of an almost maroon color. They are not seen on the streets very often and their temples are shadowy so it difficult to judge the actual color of their robes. Most men do not display facial hair, no beards or mustaches. It may be that they do not grow significant facial hair because we saw no men who appeared to have a “five-o’clock shadow.” However, it must be admitted that we did see a few very old men with stringy gray beards.

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Monks wear wraparound deep red robes that are also skirts really. Even the young monks wear this habit. Their garment ends with a shawl-like affair over one shoulder, rather like an Indian sari again, which allows air circulation on hot days when one shoulder can be bared. Laymen often wear an undershirt so that the top part of the goh can be dropped to the waist for “air conditioning” the core body.

EDUCATION From the start of the Twentieth century, Bhutan has stressed education and provides free schooling for all children for 11 years: All classes are taught in English—isn’t that surprising? Passing national examinations is necessary for students to leave

primary school and for graduation from

senior high

studies. Tertiary education is available in the country, but the government does not provide financial support for students to attend college. Most families with sufficient wealth send their sons to India for college or university education.

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PERSONAL NAMES The Bhutanese who live in the northern Himalayan valleys where we visited do not have family names. Many children are given names corresponding to their position in the family— like second child, or third child. Most names are applicable to both male and female children. Monks choose the names to be given to newborns, usually by the seventh day of life.

We were surprised to learn that our guide and his fiancée are called Kelzang (meaning 3rd child). We wondered how the teachers handled classes filled with many 3rd children. Kelzang said it was easy because the teachers just add 1, 2, 3, etc. to the name and each child knows which one he/she is. In legal situations, the people are distinguished themselves by their birth dates. In the southern part of the country (where we did not visit), the people of Nepalese origin usually have two names with a family name in the Indian fashion.

WOMEN’S RIGHTS Bhutanese women have equal status with men, unlike the status of women in most Asian countries. Women are the inheritors of property and wealth. They head the families and make the work assignments in the rural setting. However, that does not mean they escape the hard labor of agriculture and livestock tending. They are always seen in the fields alongside their husbands and sons.

They control the family finances, but also must take care of the household and the children. So they are very hardworking indeed. Not too different from how many Western women see their roles—jobs outside the home, but also total responsibility for the household and the rearing of the children

NATURAL RESOURCES The most lucrative resource the country boasts are the rivers thundering down mountainsides creating hydroelectric power m u c h o f which is sold to India.

More power plants are under construction for this source of hard currency, though the majority of rural people have no electricity at all. Timber, gypsum, and calcium carbonate are other natural resources with export commercial value. Logging and mining are strictly controlled for the preservation of the natural environment.

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HIGHWAYS & BYWAYS

The major cities all have paved roads, but most are very narrow. There is only one east- west highway in the country and it crawls over three high mountain passes. There are two lanes only, often potholed and fringed at the edges.

However, this road is still much more well- maintained than most of the Indian roads we have traveled. The road travels high on hillsides and mountain shoulders above the major valleys of the country. The forests are pristine and thick, having never been logged, on both sides. There are countless glorious waterfalls tumbling and crashing their way down the hillsides, and we stopped for pictures of every one of them because Micki is a great appreciator of these dramatic water shows. Prayer wheels are turned constantly by many of the little side streamlets these cataracts create. There is absolutely no pollution in the entire country and the skies are cerulean with the most amazing cloud formations any of us had ever seen.Many Tata trucks from India joined us on the highway, but most of the drivers were courteous to each other and seemed to follow the “local rules of the road.” Of course, even the Bhutanese produce an occasional “drugstore cowboy” or maybe it’s the Indian drivers who sometimes 34

drive a bit recklessly. As the highway ascends towards a pass, the prayer flag “forests” begin to sprout with their long narrow fluttering white banners reaching high into the sky. Then stupas and chortens, memorial cairns and structures to saints, lamas, past leaders, and holy men are seen through the thick forest underbrush. At the top of the pass, the prayer flags are strung completely across the roads and around the open areas. These are the pennant type of flag and they sport many different colors. Their crisscross patterns look like enormous “cat’s cradle” puzzles. But they flash and flicker gaily under the bright blue skies. For 99% of the travel time, we felt safe on this highway because of our excellent driver and because of the courtesy of the others on the roads.

THE COUNTRYSIDE

The deep valleys bordered by steep foothills determine that the land for agriculture must be terraced because there is very little flat land in those valleys. This geological feature also adds to the organic appearance of Bhutan as a whole. The land is fertile and the fields are well-tended. Much red rice, sticky rice, millet, buckwheat and maize are grown in the north part of the country.

35

Vegetables are also easily grown in these valleys—most of which we are very familiar with— greens like turnip and mustard, tomatoes, peppers, broccoli, green beans, and potatoes. Even bananas can be grown in the valleys with their warmer temperature microclimates. In the south of the country, tropical products can be grown—things like citrus fruits, bamboo, mangos, carrots, onions, squashes.

A unique vegetable we tried was “crows beak.” It looked like a small, ridged and twisted green squash, but was a bit denser than summer squash and less dense than acorn squash. It was usually served with a cheesy sauce.

The beautiful emerald green of rice fields and the brilliant yellow of mustard blooming in the sunshine made the farms glow with life and beauty. All the farms appeared to be prosperous and neat. Of course, we saw only the farms in the big valleys bordered by the East-West Highway and have no idea if farms over the hills and deeper into the mountains are as large and bountiful.

36

Actually, the farmlands extend into the major cities we saw as well. Every acre of arable land is used, usually for rice production. Since there is a limited amount of land that can be effectively productive, none of it is wasted, no matter if it is right alongside the airport runway in Paro or on empty lots in the capital city, Thimphu. Red rice and sticky rice are the staple food of the Bhutanese, so it consumes the most land.

Many of the flowers were familiar to us and that was another surprising discovery.

So we saw lots of marigolds, bougainvillea, periwinkles, trumpet vines, hibiscus, pansies, petunias, zinnias, and rhododendrons. Fruits were also mostly familiar to us: guavas, apples, bananas, persimmons, oranges, and pomegranates. The national tree is the cypress but it did not resemble our bald cypresses at all.

Magnolias are also a ubiquitous tree, but again, they did not look like our southern magnolia in any way.

The primeval, virgin forests that carpet all the foothills and mountains forming the valleys are so dense and uniform in height that there are just the little bumps here and there so that the whole resembles nothing so much as broccoli heads and flowers. There are some differences in the types of forests depending on 37

elevations and soils. Some forests are almost tropical, looking like Amazonian rain forest trees. Others are reminiscent of US southern forests with a grandfather’s beard, a moss-like growth, dangling from the branches. Still others are filled with cedars and other boreal type trees.

Something we noticed on the farms and the roads was the very useful rototiller.

Farm folk use it for plowing and tilling as it is was developed to do, but these resourceful people also use it for transportation by hitching a wagon to the rototiller and loading people and objects inside. Then down the rocky roads the driver goes, freeing himself from backbreaking haulage and his passengers from long walks.

There were many more rototillers in use as transportation than scooters on country roads, but you could also see them on the roads in Paro! A very useful item indeed and probably pretty efficient to run—important to a country where all oil and gasoline must be imported from India.

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THE HIMALAYAS The most dramatic feature of Bhutan is often invisible—the high snowcapped Himalayas playing hide and seek with the eyes as they retreat behind the clouds of their own devising. When we drove west over the lofty passes, we were always aware that just beyond the visible horizon were the soaring peaks, but we never really saw them. However, the Thunder Dragons were more generous to us as we returned back to the east of the country.

At the highest of the passes, the thick, cottony white clouds began to disperse even though there were flimsy gray shawl-like wisps still grazing the mountain faces. As we excitedly watched, the clouds lifted, the gray wisps evaporated, and there were the towering tallest mountains in Bhutan, shining brilliantly in the sunshine against the purestblue skies.

At the highest of the passes, the thick, cottony white clouds began to disperse even though there were flimsy gray shawl-like wisps still grazing the mountain faces. As we excitedly watched, the clouds lifted, the gray wisps evaporated, and 39

there were the towering tallest mountains in Bhutan,

shining

brilliantly

in

the sunshine against the purestblue skies. We were all captivated and the camera clicks never stopped until, like a concluding drama, the curtain of clouds dropped back over the craggy, snow-covered faces and ended the show. Everest, in all its majesty, we had seen on flying into Paro and would see it again as we left the Land of the Thunder Dragon.

But seeing it from the air is distinctly different from seeing the high Himalayan Mountains

from

the

ground.

Looking

out

from

the

passes,

these

mountains appear as monstrous earth-born eruptions of living stone, rooted clearly in the ground of our planet. Everest seemed to float above the earth on a frothy sea from the airplane. Of course, even with the cloud cover lifted, the mountains we saw from the pass did not include Everest which was too far to the east to be seen from where we visited.

THE QUIET NATION Many of the sights and impressions I have described so far are fairly evident after only a few hours or a day or two in the nation. The most salient characteristic takes a few days to register on the busy Western traveler who is gaping, exclaiming, and snapping photos of all the exotic features of the land. Then a realization bubbles up into one’s conscious mind—how quiet it is in Bhutan.

Missing from the ambiance is noise! No honking horns, no loud radios, TVs, or music played in public places. No raised voices. Very little mechanical aural disturbances because there is not much traffic. Only four flights a day (and that only in good weather when the clouds or fogs do not hang too low in the Paro Valley). No one talking too loudly into a cell phone (though there are many of these devices in use). Instead, you hear the wind soughing in the trees, the ravens croaking from the skies overhead, the rain tapping on the roofs, a woodpecker hammering at a trunk, rivers rushing through their rocky beds, waterfalls tumbling, crashing, tinkling down the rock faces, prayer wheels lightly grinding on their axles, prayer flags flapping in the breezes or, most amazing of all, complete silence. Andthen you find yourself speaking more softly, or maybe even refraining from speech at all, just listening and really hearing the Quiet Country.

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The big exception to the quietude of the cities was the night-time incessant barking of the dogs. Most dogs in Bhutan are not owned by anyone in particular.

They run the streets at will and at all hours. Buddhists are concerned with the natural environment so the dogs are cared for in a community fashion. People put food out for them and they are rounded up once a year for rabies vaccination paid for by the government. The people are even paid a bounty when they bring a dog in for its inoculation. However, the dogs show no gratitude for this general concern; they bark and howl all through the night in solos, duets, trios and even whole choruses of sound. How the city folk sleep through those concerts we are not sure, but surely they do get used to the disturbance. We were not in the cities long enough for that adjustment to happen for us.

THE WARM AND COURTEOUS PEOPLE The Bhutanese are a courteous and considerate people to one another as well as to Western tourists (though that politesse doesn’t seem to extend to the Indian road workers). In the shops, clerks respond with quiet attention to the needs of their customers. They do laugh easily with one another but never boisterously. They are not overly outgoing as are Americans and Australians, but they do respond to friendly contact. They definitely exhibit that nebulous quality called happiness as their beloved king has so eagerly wanted them to feel.

Though it is not possible to “get to know” folks from another culture on a 10day visit, even when they are English speaking, we all felt that we could see enough evidence of a contented society to give kudos to the king!

LOIS’ BIRTHDAY PARTY I celebrated my birthday while we were in Bhutan and was touched by the special attention I was accorded at our guest house. Kelzang had been told by his tour office that my birthday would occur while we were in the country, so he arranged with a local bakery to have a cake appear before supper that night. The wonderful greeting on the cake demonstrated that the Bhutanese are not used to more than one name. My cake was decorated with the words Happy Birthday Gray!

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A bottle of tasty red wine (according to Micki and Dan, it was better than what they had been buying in the evenings) accompanied the cake along with toasts to good health and many happy return wishes. Micki and Dan gave me some edible treats from Thailand and the birthday celebration went merrily along. The people in the restaurant area were also in attendance at the festivities and wished me well too. A memorable birthday indeed—another testament to the warmth of these fine folk.

Kelzang used some wonderfully droll and unexpected forms of English during his many talks with us, as he explained what we were seeing, gave us more history of the country, or just chatted with us. In describing the cows we saw returning from the fields to the houses without human leaders, he called them “punctual cows.” At every river confluence, we would see stupas and chortens and shrines. Bhutanese people apparently believe that demons and evil spirits inhabit such geographical sites and use the religious shrines to ward off their bad influences. He labeled these river confluences “inauspicious.”

While we traveled the big highway, he offered that it is courteous that drivers “sound their honk” at curves and other potential road hazards. When relating a story of Guru Rinpoche’s conquering demons in the land, he added that this devil was particularly “hard to crack down.” We enjoyed Kelzang’s stories and his history lessons not least because of the colorful English he used.

IS BHUTAN MEETING ITS FOUR “HAPPINESS” GOALS? The 4th king set down these 4 pillars for the attainment of a high degree of societal happiness. The first pillar is the promotion of equitable and sustainable socioeconomic development.

Everywhere we visited in the country we saw much evidence of the attainment of this goal. We saw excellent hotels already established for promotion of a healthy tourist business. We observed road

the

work

on infrastructure

primarily

improvements. We saw thriving businesses, both large and small, in

villages and cities. We saw prosperous farms with healthy and well-fed citizens.

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We saw plentiful goods in the stores. We saw foreign investment in the country, in the form of a Japanese car assembly plant and a soft drink manufacturer.

We saw the reach of globalization when we visited a DHL outlet in the capital city where we sent some unneeded items home easily and successfully. We learned about the hydroelectric plant that sells India excess electricity for hard currency and were told that another such power facility is under construction now.

We saw growing entrepreneurship in our own young guide who owns and operates a snooker parlor in Thimphu and has bigger plans to become a builder through a business plan involving the hiring of experienced Indian workers through companies in India. Bhutanese workers do not have the skills possessed by the Indians, according to Kelzang.

We saw that technology is already changing the way business is done in the country. Computers and the Internet are available and utilized. There are cell phones and television for mass communications. Bhutan is expanding its economy and bringing prosperity to its people. No doubt the first goal is being met.

The second pillar to achieve a happy society is the preservation and promotion of Bhutan’s cultural values. The capital city’s National Museum, National Library, National School of the Arts, The National School of Music and National Hospital for Traditional Medicine are tangible proofs of the government’s support of these aspects of the culture. The Museum houses preserves and displays artifacts from the country’s history, including tools, clothing, weapons, and statuary.

The National Library is a repository for the ancient Buddhists scriptures and commentaries. It is also in the process of acquiring books on the history of the country and its place in Asian history as well as copies of books published in Bhutan. There is an effort to collect copies of books written by Bhutanese authors.

At the National School of the Arts, talented students are admitted and supported with government stipends so they can learn the 13 traditional arts and crafts of Bhutan, such as weaving, tailoring, metal, wood, and stone carving, drum making, religious painting, and gold, silver and iron smithing. The students who successfully complete these strenuous courses, lasting from two to six years, are guaranteed 44

employment in government projects but are also encouraged to work in the private sector whenever possible.

At the National Hospital for Traditional Medicine, treatment is provided and instruction in the methods & processes of traditional medicine are taught to students so that traditional medicine will continue to thrive. The Music School exists to keep traditional folk music and song alive and a vital part of the culture.

The government also supports the monasteries, shrines and temples all over the country for the encouragement of Buddhism as the state religion. The monasteries keep cultural values current by practicing the religion for the benefit of all the people, by preserving the rituals, prayers, chants and festivals of the faith, and by caring for the physical properties inherent in the religion.

They also provide for the religious education of younger generations through monastic training, Sanskrit literacy, and the molding of new monks. Because Buddhism so intricately involved in the daily life of the people, in the understanding of Bhutan’s history, and in its focus on the natural world, the religion with all its trappings encourages the preservation of the society’s values and norms.

A different program to preserve cultural values is the National Reorientation requirement. All students who receive their education abroad must enroll in the Reorientation Institute upon their return to Bhutan in order to be reminded of their nation’s cultural values and to be updated

on

changes

in

the

national goals and objectives. The Institute also offers employment help to the returning students to help them rejoin the economy more easily. The Reorientation Institute offers its seminars at least twice yearly for these returning students.

The world’s conservation movement organizations have long recognized Bhutan’s commitment to the third pillar, the conservation of the natural world. The strict government control of mining and timbering, the ban on hunting or harming wild animals, and Buddhism’s own integral tenets requiring respect and care for the natural world all encourage the continuation of Bhutan’s natural beauty and unspoiled environment on a daily basis. There is literally no air pollution to introduce toxins into the plant or animal kingdoms. There are trucks, cars, 45

scooters and rototillers requiring gasoline or diesel to operate, but the population is so small and the numbers of these machines so limited that no harm has come to the environment due to these potential polluters. Visiting the country convinced us that the pristine forests and the amazing visibility are clear evidence of environmental concern. The work of this poor country to preserve its animal life is also touching and it is gratifying that so many agencies like World Wildlife Fund and UNESCO are assisting the country in this endeavor through research and training.

The Fourth king’s fourth pillar in the creation of a happy and successful society is the establishment of good governance. His plans for the gradual transition from an absolute monarchy established in 1907 to a constitutional monarchy with representative democracy surely constitute “good governance.”

That king abdicated in favor of his son who is currently the uncrowned fifth king because he apparently believed that the younger man would handle the transition more smoothly than he could.

All this change is due to occur in 2008 with the coronation of the fifth king, the establishment and acceptance of the new constitution, and the election of a representative National Assembly directly by the electorate for the first time! We learned from Kelzang on our return home that he has decided to run for that Assembly to represent Thimphu Valley.

The four of us happy and contented visitors to this magical country agreed that the Gross National Happiness we observed is real. From our admittedly limited perspective, the government continues to work diligently towards the realization of the “Four Pillars of Happiness.” We very much enjoyed our exploration of the Land of the Thunder Dragon. May it continue to thrive and bring contentment to its citizenry!

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BANGKOK During this marathon visit to Bhutan & Southeast Asia, we were in Bangkok four times altogether because it is the gateway city for flights to all the countries where we traveled. BKK (as the airlines identify it) is an architecturally marvelous city. It is very large and spread out and we cannot pretend to have explored its many wonders. But we did enjoy times we spent there which was always the case as we spent only one night at a time. Anyway, thanks to Micki and Dan, we stayed at two really splendid hotels—world famous ones actually. They promised we wouldn’t regret the extra cost and they were absolutely correct.

The Peninsula Hotel and the Oriental Hotel were simply stunning, luxurious, beautiful inside and out, and they sat on opposite banks of the river that runs through the city. The city is a blaze of lights at night and the river traffic with its lighted boats and junks carries through that theme. From our balconies in both hotels, we could look out on a magical scene with such an exciting artificial “aurora borealis” emblazoning the skies over our heads and across the river!

Dinner outside on the banks of the river was also

really

enjoyable.

The Peninsula, in particular, had an interesting really

menu

delicious

and food.

The breezes were soft and

sweetly

scented.

The skies were clear and deep and the river traffic was fascinating to watch as little boats tacked their way back and forth across the water ferrying hotel patrons from one place to another.

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On our last entry into BKK, Kay and I booked a city tour that gave us a look at the floating neighborhoods and at the magnificent royal palace grounds.

There are low-rent districts and really plush ones with houses that must cost in the millions. The neighborhoods are protected by water locks against high tides. Most houses are decorated with riotously flamboyant flowers and shrubs.

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The Grand Palace and Grounds are amazingly splendid—the

palace

itself, the temples, the stupas, and the public buildings . The carvings , the outrageously colorful inside and outside walls , the

enormous

statuary,

the radiant golden roofs atop all the structures— everything

was

and awe-inspiring.

50

opulent

The Thai people love their king who is in his 80s and was in hospital while we were in his country. The beauty of his abode could incite envy and resentment among his people except for this love they bear him. All are hopeful that he will be returning to the Palace in good health. Apparently , he did return home shortly after we left his country for the last time but we have no idea how impaired he was/is from the stroke he suffered.

Bangkok is a wonderful transitional transportation hub! And Thailand is very important in the history of four of the countries we were visiting. For the Bhutanese, Bangkok is the nearest modern Mecca for superior health care . For the three Southeast Asian countries , Thailand is an historic friend, enemy, influence, and trading partner. It also shares the Buddhist faith of all these countries so the religious practices are similar in many ways that educated us and mystified us. But now for us, it’s ON TO LAOS.

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