Peter Gray Austria 2 - Full

Peter Gray's Travels, Volume 2: Austria Narrow Gauge & Industry

Peter’s photographs are a record of a bygone era, allowing us to step back in time to an Austria now long disappeared, but captured for posterity by the lens of an accomplished photographer and enthusiast. The lines depicted in this book include the narrow gauge operations of the ÖBB and the Steiermärkische Landesbahnen, as well as the Zillertalbahn and Achenseebahn, and three contrasting industrial locations.

ISBN 978-1-913893-58-3

A companion volume, PETER GRAY’S TRAVELS Volume 1: Austria Standard Gauge covers the country’s standard gauge public lines.

£17.50

Volume 2: Austria Narrow Gauge & Industry

Compiled by Andrew Fox

Between 1958 and 1973, Peter Gray visited Austria several times. This volume contains Peter’s remarkable colour photographs of Austria’s narrow gauge and industrial lines, still operated largely by a wide variety of steam classes, in the last few years before the country’s railways were transformed by dieselisation, decline and closures. Over subsequent decades, several of the lines portrayed have sadly disappeared, and those which survive have been transformed by the effects of half a century of rationalisation and modernisation.

peter Gr ay’s tr avels

Compiled by Andrew Fox

peter Gr ay’s tr avels Volume 2: Austria Narrow Gauge & Industry

Compiled by Andrew Fox

© Images and design: Transport Treasury 2025 Text: Andrew Fox ISBN 978-1-913893-58-3 First published in 2025 by Transport Treasury Publishing Limited. 16 Highworth Close, High Wycombe, HP13 7PJ. Totem Publishing an imprint of Transport Treasury Publishing.

The copyright holders hereby give notice that all rights to this work are reserved.

Aside from brief passages for the purpose of review, no part of this work may be reproduced, copied by electronic or other means, or otherwise stored in any information storage and retrieval system without written permission from the Publisher. This includes the illustrations herein which shall remain the copyright of the copyright holder. www.ttpublishing.co.uk Printed in Tarxien, Malta by Gutenberg Press Ltd. ‘Peter Gray’s Travels, Volume 2: Austria Narrow Gauge & Industry’ is one of many books on specialist transport subjects published in strictly limited numbers and produced under the Totem Publishing imprint using material only available at The Transport Treasury.

Front Cover: Steiermärkische Landesbahnen No S12, acquired following the closure of the Salzkammergut Lokalbahn, stands at Weiz with a Feistritztalbahn train for Ratten on 3 September 1963.

Frontispiece: Seen with empty coaching stock at Garsten on 7 September 1963, No 298.53 was a member of the highly successful and widespread ‘U’ class, developed from the original Steyrtalbahn locomotives. Built by Krauss, Linz in 1898 for the Niederösterreichische Landesbahnen (NÖLB), No 298.53 would operate for the ÖBB on the Steyrtalbahn until the line’s closure in February 1982.

Contents Page (Right): Steiermärkische Landesbahnen 0-6-0T No 6 (built by Krauss, Linz in 1893) of the Lokalbahn Kapfenberg - Au-Seewiesen, draws its special train formed of veteran eight-window coaches past the station building at Kapfenberg Landesbahn on 30 August 1964.

Rear Cover: Umbrellas to the fore, passengers on the Vellachtalbahn join a train for Völkermarkt-Kühnsdorf at Eisenkappel on 6 September 1963.

The formation consists of typical ÖBB steel-bodied four-wheel coaches, including (as the fourth vehicle) type Bi/s coach No 3650, built in 1902 as an eight-window, flat roof coach, and later rebuilt as shown, with four windows and Haubendach domed roof.

Contents Introduction

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1. The ÖBB 760mm Gauge Lines

6

2. The ÖBB Rack Lines

45

3. The Steiermärkische Landesbahnen

54

4. The Independent Lines

78

5. Industrial Lines - Standard and Narrow Gauges

87

3

Peter Waymouth Gray

F

rom an early age, Peter Gray’s interest in railways was encouraged by his father, an employee of the GWR. Peter’s railway photography began in Basra, Iraq, whilst serving in the Army, at a time when rows of Stanier ‘8Fs’ awaited post-war shipment back to the UK. Returned home from National Service, purchase of a new bicycle led to wider exploration of the photographic opportunities presented by the railways of the West Country.

He profited from bank holiday weekends to undertake excursions around Devon and Cornwall, and further afield to places such as Bridgwater North, Bath, Westbury, Weymouth, and even by ferry across the Severn into South Wales.

Eventually, mechanisation took over in the form of two Velocette motorbikes, and in his late fifties a car licence enabled him to him expand his railway photography to include other regions of Britain. His colour photography of lines in Devon, Cornwall and Somerset would become highly regarded through a series of very successful books, whilst his black & white photographs of railways in the south-west were the basis of his very popular weekly ‘Rail Trail’ feature in Torbay’s Herald Express newspaper.

4

From the mid-1950s Peter’s activities spread to railways beyond Britain, and he began an extensive and varied series of overseas travels, at first around Ireland and Europe (including many Eastern Bloc countries), and later taking in large parts of Africa, North and South America, and Indonesia. His colour slide film of choice was Kodachrome, which guaranteed an absence of grain, with reliable colour reproduction, and has fortunately survived the passage of time with minimal deterioration since he first used it in the late 1950s.

An enthusiastic and active member of the Railway Correspondence & Travel Society, Peter was a familiar presence on the RCTS stand at exhibitions, and many of his overseas travels were undertaken as a member of RCTS tours. For many years he presented his popular slide shows across the country, until a fall left him unable to travel for the last 18 months of his life.

P

Introduction

eter Gray visited Austria on several occasions between 1958 and 1973, capturing rare colour views of lines and locomotives which would shortly disappear. An especially interesting and productive visit occurred in September 1963, when he participated in the Railway Correspondence & Travel Society’s tour of Austria, which visited both public lines and several industrial systems.

The subject of this book is the rich variety of narrow gauge and industrial lines to be found in Austria at the time of Peter Gray’s visits, with public standard gauge lines appearing in a companion volume.

passenger services, whilst the early 1970s would be marked by the first of a succession of line closures, which would continue over subsequent decades.

Even those lines which avoided closure are now very different in character in comparison with 50-60 years ago, meaning that the pages which follow show a fascinating view of a world that has sadly now gone for ever.

Although during the decades following World War 2 most of Austria’s railway routes, including many narrow gauge lines, were operated by the state railway company, the Österreichische Bundesbahnen (ÖBB), several lines came under the Steiermärkische Landesbahnen (StLB), whilst Jenbach in the Tyrol was home to the independent Zillertalbahn and Achenseebahn.

The period from 1958 to the mid-1960s would see widespread dieselisation on the narrow gauge lines of Austria, with the delivery of the ÖBB‘s SGP-built Class 2095 B-B diesel-hydraulics and Steiermärkische Landesbahnen Bo-Bo diesel electrics Nos VL11 - VL16 spelling the end for many steam locomotives. This period also witnessed a progressive withdrawal of

ÖBB No 199.02, one of two elegant 0-8-2Ts of Class 199, dating from 1926, stands at Klein Glödnitz, terminus of the Gurktalbahn, after arriving with a special train on 5 September 1963.

5

1. The ÖBB 760mm Gauge Lines In the period following World War 2, the ÖBB operated a significant number of 760mm narrow gauge lines. Most of them carried large volumes of freight - especially timber - but they tended to operate in relatively remote areas, with low population densities, and the growing role of road transport, with steadily increasing ownership of private cars, led to a significant reduction in passenger levels. The result was that, despite increased dieselisation, the 1960s and 1970s would see a trend of decline, cuts and closures.

The Pinzgauer Lokalbahn Situated in Salzburg state in western Austria, the Pinzgauer Lokalbahn is some 52.7km (33 miles) long. Starting from a platform adjacent to the standard gauge station at Zell am See, on the main line between Innsbruck and Bischofshofen, it follows the valley of the river Salzach to the terminus of the line at Krimml. The line would be completely dieselised in the early 1960s, with steam being eliminated with the arrival of the powerful Class 2095 B-B diesel-hydraulics.

6

Left: Standing at Zell am See with the 12.10pm to Krimml on 11 September 1958, No 298.05 (built by Krauss, Linz in 1898) had spent much of its working life on the Ybbstalbahn, before moving to the Pinzgauer Lokalbahn.

After being taken out of traffic, No 298.05 would initially make its way to the locomotive dump at Obergrafendorf, subsequently spending many years on static display at the ÖBB works at Knittelfeld.

Right Top: The Pinzgauer Lokalbahn’s locomotive depot and servicing facilities were located at Tischlerhäusl, 1.5km from Zell am See, where No 998.01 is seen on 12 September 1958. The only member of its class, 0-6-2T No 998.01 was closely related to the Austrian ‘U’ class, but had a distinctive appearance and an interesting history. Built by Krauss, Linz in 1920 for the Kreis Kreuznacher Kleinbahnen in Germany, it came to Austria during World War 2 with the German military railways - the Heeresfeldbahn.

Right Bottom: The standard Austrian ‘U’ class 0-6-2T (ÖBB Class 298) was a core element of motive power on the Pinzgauer Lokalbahn until the final days of steam. No 298.51 is seen being shunted by classmate No 298.56 at Tischlerhäusl on 12 September 1958. In the background, No 998.01 is being moved by a former Heeresfeldbahn Class HF 130 C six-coupled diesel, of which the ÖBB operated four examples for shunting work as Class 2092.

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The Gurktalbahn Situated in Kärnten (Carinthia) in the south of Austria, the Gurktalbahn ran 29km (18 miles) from the standard gauge station at Treibach-Althofen, located on the main line from Leoben to Klagenfurt, to the terminus at Klein Glödnitz.

Passenger services were withdrawn in 1968, with the line being cut back to Gurk, 17km (10½ miles) from TreibachAlthofen. Freight services continued to run as required over the shortened line until 1972, when it became the second ÖBB narrow gauge line to close.

On 5 September 1963, an RCTS special train was operated over the Gurktalbahn from Treibach-Althofen to Klein Glödnitz and return, hauled by 0-8-2T No 199.02, built by Krauss, Linz in 1926. The RCTS special is seen at the intermediate station of Gurk, crossing a regular service train to Treibach-Althofen, hauled by a pre-war 1-Bo-1 Class 2091 diesel-electric locomotive.

8

Two members of the 0-8-2T ‘P’ class were inherited by the ÖBB, which operated them as Class 199, using them primarily on the Gurktalbahn and the Vellachtalbahn. Having uncoupled from its train on arrival at Klein Glödnitz, No 199.02 draws forward to run round.

9

A fine portrait of No 199.02. Both members of Class 199 would be officially condemned in 1973, having previously been placed in store at the ÖBB narrow gauge locomotive dump at Obergrafendorf. No 199.02 would later be acquired for preservation, returning to Treibach-Althofen, where a heritage operation had been established on a short section of the Gurktalbahn.

10

A view from on board the special train on its return journey to Treibach-Althofen, showing a typical scene on the line as it makes its way along the attractive valley of the river Gurk. The track appears to be well ballasted and in good condition.

11

The Vellachtalbahn The Vellachtalbahn, like the Gurktalbahn, was situated in Kärnten (Carinthia) in the south of Austria. Starting from the standard gauge station at Völkermarkt-Kühnsdorf, on the line between Klagenfurt and Bleiburg, its route ran 17.5km (11 miles) to Eisenkappel. Passenger traffic declined following World War 2, but the line remained busy with freight to and from a sawmill and a pulp works. Passenger services ended in 1965, and the line was cut back to Rechberg, 14.1km (9 miles) from Völkermarkt-Kühnsdorf. The Vellachtalbahn would be the first ÖBB narrow gauge line to be closed, finally succumbing in 1971.

Following World War 2, the Vellachtalbahn benefitted from the ÖBB’s acquisition of former German military railway Heeresfeldbahn ‘KDL 11’ class locomotives. One of these, No 699.103 (built Franco-Belge, 1944), awaits departure from Völkermarkt-Kühnsdorf on the occasion of a visit by the RCTS on Friday 6 September 1963. No 699.103 was one of four of the type rebuilt by the ÖBB with large side tanks and without a tender. Also present at Völkermarkt-Kühnsdorf on the same date were Nos 699.102 and 699.104.

12

No 699.103 and its train pause at Miklauzhof, the principal crossing station, 11.1km (7 miles) from Völkermarkt-Kühnsdorf. As can be seen, the RCTS visit to the Vellachtalbahn was greeted with a wet, autumnal day. No 699.103 would haul demolition trains following closure of the line, and would later move to the Steyrtalbahn for a further decade’s use, as the last of its type to be operated by the ÖBB.

13

The first section of the line ran through relatively flat, open countryside, but after roughly 10km (6 miles), its route entered the Vellach valley, and the scenery changed dramatically. As the line climbed steadily towards Rechberg and Eisenkappel, the valley sides closed in, as illustrated by this view from the train running beside the Vellach river between Miklauzhof and Rechberg.

14

Seen running round at Eisenkappel, the terminus station, is ÖBB No 699.01, the first of three locomotives belonging to the tender-tank variant of Class 699, without the larger side tanks fitted to Class 699.1. No 699.01 was another 1944-built product of Franco-Belge.

15

16

Left: The impressive setting of Eisenkappel station is apparent from this view of Nos 699.103 and 699.01, with No 699.103 running light to the shed for servicing. The contrast in the front profiles of the two classes is heightened by No 699.103 being fitted with an impressively proportioned Giesl ejector, whereas No 699.01 retains its original stovepipe chimney.

Right Top: In this view of No 699.01 at Eisenkappel, the lettering beneath its number on the tank / cab sides states that the locomotive is allocated to Bregenz, on the Bregenzerwaldbahn in Vorarlberg at the western end of Austria. It had been transferred from Bregenz to Völkermarkt-Kühnsdorf in April 1963 to replace No 499.01, which had been taken out of service in January of that year. No 699.01’s last day in traffic would be on 20 September 1967, after which it would be stored at Obergrafendorf.

Right Bottom: In this view of Eisenkappel station, No 699.01 has shunted the stock of the train which had been brought in by No 699.103, and now stands in the station awaiting departure. No 699.103 itself is being serviced in the locomotive shed, visible in the distance, prior to joining the front of the train.

17

The return service, now running as a mixed train with five standard gauge wagons at the rear, double-headed by Nos 699.103 and 699.01, passes through the narrow gorge on the upper section of the line near Rechberg, running beside the river Vellach.

18

A view towards the back of the train showing the standard gauge wagons - two vans and three open wagons - on Rollwagen behind the passenger coaches, with the line running on a stone-built ledge between the side of the gorge and the rock-strewn waters of the Vellach.

19

Although examples of several other classes worked on the line, including the two members of Class 199, which alternated between the Vellachtalbahn and Gurktalbahn, this view shows no fewer than three members of Classes 699 and 699.1. Arriving at Miklauzhof, Nos 699.103 and 699.01 cross an outbound train headed by No 699.104, which, like its classmate, is equipped with a Giesl ejector.

20

The two ÖBB variants of the former Heeresfeldbahn KDL 11 type are seen in this view of No 699.01 - the original 0-8-0TT variant, and No 699.103 - rebuilt as a 0-8-0T with full-length side tanks and no tender, and fitted in 1958 with a Giesl ejector.

21

22

The Steyrtalbahn The Steyrtalbahn was the first 760mm gauge railway in Austria, and its early locomotives would form the pattern for the majority of subsequent Austrian narrow gauge locomotives, being the predecessors of the famous ‘U’ class 0-6-2T. Located in Oberösterreich (Upper Austria) in northern central Austria, the Steyrtalbahn connected with standard gauge lines at both ends of its 39.8km (25 mile) route; at its north-eastern end it met the line from Sankt Valentin to Kleinreifling and Hieflau, whilst at its south-western end, it terminated at Klaus on the Pyhrnbahn from Linz to Selzthal, with exchange sidings at Klaus to cater for the considerable timber traffic carried by the line.

Opposite Page: Reflections of No 699.01 at VölkermarktKühnsdorf on 6 September 1963.

Left: Standing outside the locomotive shed at Garsten on 7 September 1963, No 298.105 (built Krauss, Linz, 1891) was originally Steyrtalbahn No 5 Letten, and one of the first 760mm gauge locomotives in Austria. It would be withdrawn in December 1965. The last original Steyrtalbahn locomotive in service would be ÖBB No 298.104, originally Steyrtalbahn No 4 Molln, which was finally taken out of service in 1972.

23

Garsten was the operational centre of the Steyrtalbahn, with the principal locomotive shed, workshops and carriage sidings. No 298.53 waits to draw the stock for the next departure into the single-line station, adjacent to the standard gauge lines, whilst No 298.14 passes with empty coaching stock from a train which has recently arrived at Garsten, conveying a postal van as the first vehicle.

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Another product of Krauss, Linz, No 298.14 runs light engine past the coaling stage at Garsten back to the locomotive shed. Following withdrawal by the ÖBB in June 1970, it would be acquired by the Eurovapor organisation for use on the Waldenburgerbahn in Switzerland.

25

26

Above: No 298.51 (built by Krauss, Linz in 1898) seen stabled at Garsten depot on 7 September 1963, also spent its final years on the Steyrtalbahn until closure in February 1982. It was subsequently acquired by the Österreichische Gesellschaft für Lokalbahnen (ÖGLB), and would operate on the preserved Ybbstalbahn Bergstrecke between Lunz am See and Kienberg-Gaming.

Right: Approaching Waldneukirchen, 11km (7 miles) from Garsten, the line crosses the Steyr by means of this impressive metal truss bridge.

Heading up the valley towards Klaus, No 298.105 runs onto the bridge on the evening of 7 September 1963.

27

No 298.105 has arrived at Grünburg, 19.2km (12½ miles) from Garsten. Grünburg was the line’s temporary terminus when it first opened in 1889, before being extended to Agonitz in 1890, and eventually to its final end-point at Klaus in 1909. The river Steyr, which the line follows for much of its length, lies just out of sight to the right of this view.

28

Having pulled forward a short distance from the station at Grünburg. No 298.105 pauses beside the locomotive shed to take water. Following a rock fall in March 1980, services would be withdrawn between Grünburg and Klaus, and for the final two years, ÖBB operations would be restricted to the lower section of the line, between Garsten and Grünburg.

29

No 298.105 stands at Molln, 30.2km (19 miles) from Garsten, as No 298.05 (built by Krauss, Linz in 1898 as kkStB No U 5) runs in with a train from Klaus to Garsten. Molln was an important intermediate station, with a locomotive shed and sidings, from which significant levels of timber and stone traffic originated. Beyond Molln the line starts to climb above the river Steyr, gaining 24 metres in height over the final 9.6km to Klaus.

30

Having climbed high above the Steyr, No 298.105 and its train leave the spectacular 76m (249ft) concrete viaduct spanning a deep side valley at Steyrdurchbruch, 4km (2½ miles) above Molln, and 5.5km (3½ miles) short of the destination at Klaus.

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The Waldviertelbahn The Waldviertelbahn was a network of 760mm gauge lines situated in the north of Niederösterreich (Lower Austria), in the most northerly part of Austria, just south of the border with what at the time covered by this book was Czechoslovakia. The relatively easily graded northern section ran to a junction at Alt Nagelberg, from where lines led to Litschau and Heidenreichstein, whilst the more demanding southern line terminated at Groß Gerungs. The centre of operations, and interchange with the ÖBB standard gauge line leading south to Vienna and north into Czechoslovakia, was at Gmünd (NÖ), where the narrow gauge locomotive shed was situated adjacent to its standard gauge counterpart.

Seen at Gmünd shed on 1 September 1963, No 598.02 was one of a class of three two-cylinder compound 0-6-4Ts built by Krauss, Linz in 1896 as Class Yv for the Ybbstalbahn from Waidhofen an der Ybbs to Kienberg-Gaming, where they spent most of their lives until dieselisation at the start of the 1960s. Nos 598.02 and 598.03 both moved to the Waldviertelbahn, but their stay at Gmünd was brief, and they soon made their way to the locomotive dump at Obergrafendorf, from where they would later be acquired for preservation.

32

Outside the shed at Gmünd on 1 September 1963, No 399.06, the sixth and last example of the superheated eight-coupled Engerth Class Mh, stands next to the first member of the class, No 399.01. Class Mh was introduced in 1906 for the opening of the line to Mariazell and Gußwerk. the Mariazellerbahn. Although soon displaced by electrification, they would find use elsewhere, and as ÖBB Class 399, all six would be based at Gmünd into the 1980s. Partially visible in the background is Class 93 2-8-2T No 93.1500, outside the standard gauge shed.

33

Stabled at Gmünd shed is No 299.02, one of a pair of Engerths built for the Niederösterreichische Landesbahnen in 1907 as Class Mv. Derived from Class Mh, Class Mv was a non-superheated two-cylinder compound, which proved less successful, and whilst two further members of Class Mh were built in 1908, no more examples of the compound variant were ordered. Both representatives of Class 299 were taken out of service in the early 1960s, with No 299.02 officially being withdrawn in June 1964.

34

On 1 September 1963, the RCTS tour of Austria featured a return journey over the southern branch of the Waldviertelbahn system from Gmünd to Groß Gerungs, hauled by No 598.02. The special train is seen prior to departure from the rather basic narrow gauge platform at Gmünd. The standard gauge station is out of sight to the right of the picture, on the opposite side of the road.

35

On the first part of the route out of Gmünd, the Groß Gerungs line crosses a wide plain before starting the climb into the hills near the intermediate station at Weitra. The RCTS special is seen at a photo stop on the early reaches of the Groß Gerungs line, a few kilometres out of Gmünd.

36

A low-level rear ¾ view of No 598.02 gives a good view of the chassis arrangement of the ‘Yv’ / Class 598 locomotives, with its long wheelbase rear truck. The original version of this truck was prone to derailing when running in reverse, and the design had to be modified to resolve the problem.

37

At the rural location of Steinbach-Großpertholz, 24km (15 miles) from Gmünd, steam-hauled trains would take water before tackling the steeply graded line over the hills to the south. The climb began immediately on leaving Steinbach, with the sound of departing trains echoing around the nearby hills. Over the next 5.4km the line climbed 123 metres, on a tightly curved route, at an average gradient of 1 in 44 (2.2%). The severe challenge of the next section awaits No 598.02.

38

Near the end of its journey, No 598.02 will soon lead its train down the gradient into the southern terminus at Groß Gerungs, some 43km (27 miles) from Gmünd. The rural nature of the area traversed by the Waldviertelbahn is apparent, with the region dominated by the traditional industries of forestry and agriculture.

39

With the line clinging to the hillside, this view from the third coach of the train on its return journey gives an idea of the nature of the scenery in this attractive corner of Austria, with rolling, wooded hills. The train consists of typical 4-wheel coaches of the intermediate Haubendach domed roof type.

Right: Seen at Sankt Pölten Alpenbahnhof shed on 2 September 1963, No 1099.05 belonged to a pioneering class of 16 rod-driven C-C electric locomotives delivered as Class E between 1910 and 1914 for the electrification of the Mariazellerbahn. As ÖBB Class 1099, all 16 examples were modernised and re-bodied between 1959 and 1962. Most would achieve working lives of over 100 years before finally being retired in 2013.

40

The Mariazellerbahn The 760mm gauge Mariazellerbahn, completed in 1906, ran a total distance of 91.3km (57 miles) from Sankt Pölten to Gußwerk in the eastern reaches of the Alps. Its name derives from the town of Mariazell, a major centre of pilgrimage and winter sports, 84.2km (52½ miles) from Sankt Pölten. In an innovative move the line was electrified in 1911 to address the challenges of operating this extremely demanding route, with hydro-electric power stations being built to supply the line. The final 7.1km from Mariazell to Gußwerk, which served a major sawmill, would close in May 1988.

41

Obergrafendorf 12km (7½ miles) from Sankt Pölten, at the northern end of the Mariazellerbahn, was Obergrafendorf, junction for the line to Gresten. For several years in the 1960s and 1970s, the sidings at the former locomotive depot were home to large numbers of out-of-use ÖBB narrow gauge steam locomotives, stored pending a decision about their fate.

Despite growing increasingly derelict, many of the locomotives which made their way to Obergrafendorf would eventually find new homes in preservation.

In a line of locomotives at Obergrafendorf on 2 September 1963 is No 298.205, the first of three members of Class Yv, a two-cylinder compound development of the ubiquitous ‘U’ class, built in 1902 and 1905. On its cab side, No 298.205 carries its last allocation before withdrawal, at Waidhofen an der Ybbs shed. Behind No 298.205 is Engerth No 399.03, which would spend only a short period at Obergrafendorf before returning to service at Gmünd, where it would operate until the 1980s.

42

Amongst the locomotives at Obergrafendorf on 2 September 1963 is No 499.01, the sole example of ÖBB Class 499, a superheated 0-10-0T, built in 1924 for the Vellachtalbahn as No Kh 1. To enable it to negotiate curves of 60m radius, whilst the first four axles were mounted conventionally in inside frames, the final pair of wheels was a Klien-Lindner flexible axle in outside frame extensions beneath the cab. The design later formed the basis of Steiermärkische Landesbahnen Nos Kh 101 and Kh 111.

43

Just a part of the varied collection of locomotives to be found at Obergrafendorf in September 1963, with compound Engerth No 299.01, classmate of No 299.02, already seen at Gmünd (see page 34). Beyond No 299.01 is No 898.01, a one-off 0-6-0T built by Henschel for the German Heeresfeldbahn in 1941, and later used by the ÖBB until 1965 for shunting at Sankt Pölten Alpenbahnhof, then Class 298s Nos 298.54 and 298.55, and Class 298.1 No 298.103 (originally Steyrtalbahn No 3 Grünburg).

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2. The ÖBB Rack Lines The ÖBB operated two metre gauge rack railways, on the Schneeberg and Schafberg mountains, with the closely related Class 999 and 999.1 locomotives, dating from the 1890s. In both cases, only the locomotives’ pinion wheels were driven, with the conventional wheels rotating freely and having only a carrying role. This required even level sections of track to be equipped with rack rails.

The Schneebergbahn With a height of 2,076m (6,811 ft), the Schneeberg is the highest mountain in Niederösterreich (Lower Austria). Since the arrival of the standard gauge branch line at Puchberg am Schneeberg in 1897, it had been a popular excursion destination for the inhabitants of Vienna. The rack railway to the top of the mountain opened just a few months after the standard gauge branch, climbing some 1,218m (3,996ft) over its 9.8km (6 mile) length, at an average gradient of 19.7% (1 in 5). The longest rack railway in Austria, its summit, Hochschneeberg, is the country’s highest station.

Nos 999.04 and 999.02 stand outside the archaic shed at Puchberg on the evening of 2 September 1963. The Schneebergbahn locomotives do not yet carry metal number plates, as they would in later years, and externally both examples appear distinctly grubby and neglected.

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A close-up view of No 999.04 outside Puchberg shed, with the station building in the background. Outside the shed doors are baskets of coal ready for loading into the locomotives’ cabs. Apart from being equipped with Giesl ejectors, and changes to the braking systems, the Class 999 and 999.1 locomotives were little modified over their working lives of more than a century.

46

Peter Gray visited the Schneebergbahn again a year later, and photographed two trains stabled at the summit on 11 September 1964. Nearest the camera is No 999.04, built by Krauss, Linz in 1898 as No Z4.

47

This side view of No 999.04 gives a clear view of the design of the Class 999 locomotives, and the closely related Class 999.1. A prominent feature of all members of both classes by this date is the Giesl ejector, with which they were all fitted in the early 1950s. This not only brought improved performance, but also enabled the use of effective spark arresting equipment.

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A close-up view of the Class 999 motion. Despite appearances, the connecting and coupling rods do not drive the conventional wheels mounted inside the frames - whose role is simply to carry and guide the locomotive - but instead power the pinion wheels which act on the central rack rail.

49

Due to the absence of natural water sources on the mountain, special wagons were used to transport water to replenish supplies up the line. These were either attached to the front of passenger trains, as here, or taken up the mountain in pairs. In another view on 11 September 1964, No 999.04 propels a train with Wasserwagen No 92399.

50

No 999.04 is seen again, together with a classmate, outside the locomotive shed at Puchberg on the afternoon of 11 September 1964. The five members of Class 999 would be assisted from 1974 by No 999.101, transferred from the Schafbergbahn. The Schneebergbahn would remain operated by these veteran locomotives until the delivery of modern diesel units in 1999.

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The Schafbergbahn Opened in 1893, the Schafbergbahn starts at the popular tourist resort of Sankt Wolfgang, beside the Wolfgangsee in the Salzkammergut region, climbing some 1,190 metres on its 5.9km (3¾ mile) journey to the summit station, Schafbergspitze. The line would be operated by the ÖBB until 2006.

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By the start of the 1970s, as part of measures to enhance the image of the Schafbergbahn, the locomotives were given large nameboards, decorated with an image of the alpine plant after which each locomotive was named, and painted in bright colours. No 999.103 Erika (‘Heather’) is seen with a train waiting to depart from the station at Sankt Wolfgang in May 1970.

No 999.103 Erika, built by Krauss, Linz in 1893 as No Z3, is seen with its train on arrival at the summit of the Schafberg later that day. The original locomotives would remain the exclusive motive power for the line until the arrival of two diesel-hydraulic railcars in 1964, followed in 1992 and 1995 by four steam locomotives of Class 999.2, built to a modern design from SLM.

A close-up view of No 999.103 Erika shows the close family resemblance between Class 999.1 of the Schafbergbahn and Class 999 of the Schneebergbahn.

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3. The Steiermärkische Landesbahnen Dating back to 1890, the Steiermärkische Landesbahnen (StLB), belonging to the local government of Steiermark (Styria), operated both standard and narrow (760mm) gauge lines across the state. Located in the central south of Austria, Steiermark is the country’s second largest state by surface area.

The Feistritztalbahn The Feistritztalbahn runs through a remote and scenic region in the south-east of Austria, north-east of Graz, the capital of Steiermark (Styria). Connecting at Weiz with the standard gauge Steiermärkische Landesbahnen line from Gleisdorf, it originally ran 23.9km (15 miles) to Birkfeld, with a later 18.5km (11½ mile) extension to serve the coal mines at Ratten. Passenger services were withdrawn from the Birkfeld - Ratten section in 1971, and over the rest of the line in 1973. The Birkfeld - Ratten section would close completely in 1980, but freight services would continue between Weiz and Birkfeld. A successful programme of steam-hauled excursion services would be introduced in 1971.

Waiting with its train in front of the station building at Weiz on 3 September 1963, No S12 (built by Krauss, Linz in 1906) was one of three former Salzkammergut Lokalbahn 0-6-2Ts acquired in 1958, following the closure of the SKGLB the previous year. On the other side of the building are the tracks of the standard gauge Steiermärkische Landesbahnen line from Gleisdorf.

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Out of use beside the workshops at Weiz is No HF 11 811 (built by Jung in 1944), a former Heeresfeldbahn Class HF 110 C, of which various examples were left in Austria after World War 2. Three were acquired by the Steiermärkische Landesbahnen, which utilised HF 11 805 on the Thörlerbahn, HF 11 810 on the Stainzerbahn, and HF 11 811 on the Feistritztalbahn. Suitable only for lighter, lower speed duties, all three were withdrawn by the mid-1960s.

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The other former Salzkammergut Lokalbahn 0-6-2T which found a new home on the Feistritztalbahn was No S7, built by Krauss, Linz in 1892, the oldest of the StLB’s three ‘S’ class locomotives. No S7 is seen outside the shed at Weiz on 3 September 1963.

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On the lower reaches of the line, No S12 heads into the Feistritz valley, on a route abounding in curves and characterised by a succession of impressive viaducts, together with two tunnels.

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In another view on 3 September 1963, No U8 (built by Krauss, Linz in 1894) runs into the intermediate station at Anger with a two-coach train heading down the valley to Weiz.

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A view of the line ahead from the footplate of No S12 as it makes its way along the upper reaches of the Feistritztalbahn south of Birkfeld, approaching one of the line’s numerous viaducts. The heavily wooded valley sides are closing in.

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A train for Weiz is seen at Birkfeld behind No 699.01, another former Heeresfeldbahn ‘KDL 11’ built by Franco Belge. Formerly Salzkammergut Lokalbahn No 19, it was acquired by the Steiermärkische Landesbahnen in 1955 and rebuilt in a similar form to ÖBB Class 699.1 with full-length side tanks and a rear coal bunker in place of the tender. Relatively little used on the Feistritztalbahn, No 699.01 would be taken out of service in 1965, and sold four years later to the preserved Welshpool & Llanfair Railway.

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Having been serviced at the small locomotive shed at Ratten, No S12 has returned to its train and waits to start the journey back down the valley to Weiz, its lamps shining brightly in the fading evening light. Despite the closure in 1960 of the coal mine at Ratten, which had been an important source of traffic for the line, the section between Birkfeld and Ratten would survive until July 1980.

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The Murtalbahn Unzmarkt, to the west of Judenburg on the ÖBB main line to Villach, was the starting point for the Steiermärkische Landesbahnen’s longest line. Opened in 1894, the Murtalbahn ran 76.1km (47½ miles) to Mauterndorf, with its operational centre at Murau, 27km (17 miles) from Unzmarkt. The Murtalbahn was dieselised in the mid-1960s, but steam-hauled excursions commenced in 1969. Declining traffic on the final 11km to Mauterndorf would lead to passenger services beyond Tamsweg being withdrawn in 1973, followed by freight in 1981, but this section would subsequently be preserved.

No U7, standing with its train on arrival at Unzmarkt on 5 September 1963, was built for the Murtalbahn by Krauss, Linz in 1899. The ÖBB standard gauge lines lie behind the coach standing beside No U7, to the right-hand side of the picture.

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At 8.15am on 5 September 1963, 0-10-0T No Kh 111 awaits departure from Unzmarkt with a two-coach special train for the RCTS. Built by Krauss, Linz in 1930, No Kh 111 was the third development of a design which had originated in 1924 with No Kh 1 for the Vellachtalbahn, and was followed in 1926 by No Kh 101 for the Steiermärkische Landesbahnen. No Kh 111 differed from its predecessors in being fitted with Caprotti valve gear.

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No Kh 111 is seen en route to the line’s operational centre at Murau with its two-coach train. Originally built for the Feistritztalbahn, it had been transferred to the Murtalbahn in 1943.

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In steam at Murau depot, is ‘U’ class No U11, built by Krauss, Linz in 1894, and originally named Mauterndorf. It is coupled to veteran snow plough No X1, dating, like the locomotive from the opening of the line.

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Standing outside the locomotive shed at Murau is No U9, another original Murtalbahn ‘U’ class locomotive, formerly named Murau, also dating from the opening of the line in 1894.

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A busy scene at Murau depot on 5 September 1963. In the foreground is No U9, in the centre of the picture is No U11, and in the distance No Kh 111 runs light from the station. At this date the Murtalbahn is still almost entirely steam-operated, with the first of the Steiermärkische Landesbahnen’s six Bo-Bo diesel-electric locomotives, Nos VL 11 - VL 16 (built by ÖMAG / BBC) not being delivered until the following year.

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Having arrived at Murau with the RCTS special, No Kh 111 has retired to the depot. This portrait shows the arrangement of the locomotive’s chassis, with the final pair of driving wheels in a Klien-Lindner flexible axle, located in outside frames under the cab, and the unusual use of Caprotti valve gear, as opposed to Lentz valve gear on No Kh 1 (499.01) and Heusinger (Walschaerts) valve gear on No Kh 101.

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Inside the workshops at Murau on the same date is the Steiermärkische Landesbahnen’s other ‘Kh’ type 0-10-0T, No Kh 101 of 1926, which is undergoing a heavy repair, with the boiler, tanks and cab removed from the frames. The StLB were largely self-sufficient in performing major locomotive work, with the capabilities of the workshops at Murau on the Murtalbahn, Weiz on the Feistritztalbahn and Kapfenberg on the Lokalbahn Kapfenberg - Au-Seewiesen.

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Returning from Murau to Unzmarkt behind No U11, the RCTS special is seen pausing at the small halt at Triebendorf in a typically attractive setting. No U11 was one of a batch of four ‘U’ class locomotives (Steiermärkische Landesbahnen Nos 8 - 11) delivered by Krauss, Linz in 1894 for the opening of the Murtalbahn.

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Approaching Unzmarkt on the return journey from Murau, No U11 pauses for a photograph beside the River Mur. After a total length of some 453km (283 miles) through Austria, Slovenia, Croatia and Hungary, the Mur flows into the Drau, in turn a tributary of the Danube on its way to the Black Sea.

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The Lokalbahn Kapfenberg - Au-Seewiesen Starting at Kapfenberg, north of Bruck an der Mur and east of Leoben, the Lokalbahn Kapfenberg - Au-Seewiesen (also known as the Thörlerbahn), operated by the Steiermärkische Landesbahnen, ran 22.7km (14 miles) to a terminus at Au-Seewiesen. At Kapfenberg it connected with the Südbahn main line. Passenger services were withdrawn as early as March 1959, and in December 1964 the line would be cut back by 2.7km to Seebach-Turnau. Dieselised in the 1960s, the line would remain busy with freight until the collapse of the local iron industry led to closure in 1999.

Three 0-6-0Ts, numbered 5 - 7, were delivered by Krauss, Linz in 1893 for use on the Lokalbahn Kapfenberg - Au-Seewiesen. The design was based on the four members of Class Z built in 1898 for the Pinzgauer Lokalbahn. The last survivor of the three Thörlerbahn examples, No 6 Thörl, is seen at Kapfenberg Landesbahn station with a special train on 30 August 1964, five years after the end of regular passenger services.

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Above: Present at Kapfenberg on 30 August 1964 was No S11, one of three 0-6-2Ts acquired by the Steiermärkische Landesbahnen following the closure of the Salzkammergut Lokalbahn in 1957. They retained their SKGLB numbers, but with the addition of the prefix ‘S’, and were given full-length extensions to their side tanks. In service on the Thörlerbahn until 1967, No S11 would later operate on the reactivated Stainzerbahn, restored to its original SKGLB condition.

Right: No 6 pauses with the special train on a roadside section of line between Kapfenberg and Seebach-Turnau. Of interest are the three elderly carriages with the early style of eight-window bodies and flat roofs, which contrast with the later designs, which featured four windows and domed roofs.

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No 6 and its train cross a viaduct on the return journey, in a view which gives an idea of the very attractive scenery traversed by the Thörlerbahn.

The three 1893-built 0-6-0Ts were effectively a smaller version of the famous ‘U’ class 0-6-2T, but the simplified design, without a trailing truck, resulted in significantly poorer running characteristics.

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The Lokalbahn Preding-Wieseldorf - Stainz One of the Steiermärkische Landesbahnen’s more modest operations, the Lokalbahn Preding-Wieselsdorf - Stainz or Stainzerbahn connected with the Lieboch - Wies-Eibiswald line of the standard gauge Graz-Köflacher Bahn at PredingWieselsdorf, from where it ran 11.5km (7 miles) to Stainz. Passenger services ended in 1951, but freight would continue until 1980, with standard gauge wagons carried on small Rollbock transporter trucks. Following the end of freight services, the line would be preserved.

760mm gauge diesel No VL3, a Heeresfeldbahn Class HF 130 C built by Windhoff in 1943, is seen shunting standard gauge wagons carried on small narrow gauge Rollbock trucks at Preding-Wieselsdorf, the interchange point with the Graz-Köflacher Bahn, on 4 September 1963.

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4. The Independent Lines Although in the decades following World War 2 nearly all public narrow gauge lines in Austria were operated by the ÖBB or the Steiermärkische Landesbahnen, two notable exceptions both started from Jenbach, in the Tyrol, on the main line between Innsbruck and Wörgl.

The Zillertalbahn The 760mm gauge Zillertalbahn (ZB) opened in 1902, running from Jenbach, on the Salzburg - Innsbruck main line, 31.7km (20 miles) along the valley of the River Ziller to Mayrhofen. For many years, the primary motive power consisted of a pair of ‘U’ class 0-6-2Ts and a two-cylinder compound Class Uv. These were reinforced in 1930 by a superheated Class Uh, which was the last locomotive built at Linz by Krauss. Although largely displaced from regular services by the early 1970s, steam would continue in use on the line’s popular steam excursions.

On 12 September 1958, Zillertalbahn No 3 stands in the evening sun at Jenbach. Built by Krauss, Linz in 1902, No 3 was a two-cylinder compound development of the ‘U’ class, essentially to the same design as the three Class Uv locomotives built for the Niederösterreichische Landesbahnen, which later became ÖBB Class 298.2.

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Seen at Jenbach on 28 May 1972, Zillertalbahn No 4 was the second locomotive to carry this number. It came to the line following the closure of the Salzkammergut Lokalbahn, where it had been No 22. An outside frame 0-10-0 tender-tank, it originated as a one-off locomotive built for the Heeresfeldbahn by Borsig in 1939 as No HF 191. Remaining in Austria following World War 2, it was acquired by the SKGLB, where it was a valued member of the locomotive fleet.

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In 1972 the Zillertalbahn acquired an unremarkable industrial 0-4-0WT, which became the line’s No 6. Built by Krauss, München in 1916, it came from the Böhlerwerk steel works at Kapfenberg in Steiermark (Styria). No 6 is seen at Jenbach on 28 May 1972, still largely in the condition in which it had arrived. It would be rebuilt by the ZB for use as the ‘Hobby-Lok’ for footplate experience operation, painted in lined green.

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ZB No 2, one of a pair of ‘U’ class locomotives built by Krauss, Linz in 1900 for the opening of the line, is seen at Jenbach on the damp 28 May 1972.

The Zillertalbahn recognised the potential for a programme of steam-hauled excursion trains, one of which No 2 will shortly haul along the valley to Mayrhofen.

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The Achenseebahn Jenbach is notable as being a station with three railways on three different gauges. On the opposite side of the ÖBB lines from the Zillertalbahn is the starting point of the Achenseebahn. Opened in 1889, the metre gauge Riggenbach-system Achenseebahn is Europe’s oldest steam-powered rack railway still using its original locomotives. It gains 440 metres in height over 3.6km (2¼ miles) from Jenbach to the highest point at Eben in Tirol, before dropping 29 metres to the terminus beside the Achensee, 6.7km (4¼ miles) from Jenbach.

Achenseebahn No 1, built by Floridsdorf in 1889, pauses at Eben with a train carrying members of the RCTS Austrian tour party on 12 September 1958. Having propelled its single coach up the gradient from Jenbach, No 1 has run round prior to leading its coach to the lakeside terminus.

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No 1 and its train, consisting of coach No 2, one of the original open-sided coaches delivered in 1888 for the opening of the line, have reached the intermediate station and passing place at Maurach. At this date the coaches were still painted in an attractive sage green livery, which would later be replaced with a more eye-catching red & white colour scheme.

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Having run round its two-coach train, Achenseebahn No 2 waits in a spectacular setting beside the lake from which the line takes its name, before returning to Jenbach in the late afternoon of 12 September 1958. The line has both open and closed coaches, with this train consisting of an example of each type.

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This side view of No 2 shows the fascinating arrangement of motion and gears which drive the locomotive. Despite their rather esoteric appearance, the longevity of the line’s original locomotives speaks for the effectiveness of the design.

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Fourteen years later, the appearance of Achenseebahn trains has been transformed by the new red & white livery carried by the coaching stock.

No 3 makes a dramatic arrival at the Seespitz terminus with a single closed coach on the rather grey 28 May 1972.

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5. Industrial Lines - Standard and Narrow Gauges In addition to its public railways, Austria used to have a fascinating variety of industrial railway operations, three of which are illustrated in the following pages, covering both standard and narrow gauge systems.

Schoeller-Bleckmann, Mürzzuschlag An interesting industrial operation was to be found at Mürzzuschlag in Steiermark (Styria), where the SchoellerBleckmann steel company had both standard and 760mm gauge systems, which shared a common locomotive shed.

The 760mm gauge line featured several diminutive four-wheel steam and diesel locomotives. Whilst narrow gauge steam at Schoeller-Bleckmann ended in 1971, standard gauge steam operations would continue until the early 1980s.

This view of standard gauge 0-6-0T Phoenix, seen with the narrow gauge steam locomotives Hans and Wolf at Mürzzuschlag on 30 August 1964, underlines the very small proportions of the narrow gauge locomotives and stock. In the background is the mixed gauge locomotive shed, whilst the ÖBB main line runs on an embankment on the right-hand side of the picture. Built by Floridsdorf in 1920, Phoenix would remain with SchoellerBleckmann at Mürzzuschlag until the 1980s.

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Charming 760mm gauge 0-4-0WT Wolf, also seen at Mürzzuschlag on 30 August 1964, was a 1902 product of Krauss, Linz. It would be the last of the Schoeller-Bleckmann narrow gauge steam fleet in service, finally being taken out of use in 1971.

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The workers’ train is seen on the mixed gauge line between Mürzzuschlag and Hönigsberg, hauled by a 100hp 4-wheel diesel delivered by Jenbacher Werke in 1963.

The diminutive coaching stock, used to transport company employees from Mürzzuschlag to the works at Hönigsberg, was apparently built in-house by SchoellerBleckmann.

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Donawitz Steelworks (ÖAM) The enormous steelworks of the Österreichische-Alpine Montangesellschaft (ÖAM) at Donawitz, near Leoben, had extensive internal rail systems, both standard and narrow gauge, with large locomotive fleets. The standard gauge system connected with the ÖBB line between Leoben and Vordernberg, whilst the 790mm gauge system linked the inner workings of the site, negotiating sharp curves and a restricted loading gauge.

In a very industrial setting at Donawitz on the morning of 7 September 1963, beneath the layers of rust and grime lurks a classic Austrian locomotive. In 1958 the ÖAM at Donawitz acquired a former Wiener Stadtbahn Class 30 two-cylinder compound 2-6-2T of 1897 from the Graz-Köflacher Bahn. It was joined by a second example, and the pair became Donawitz Nos 600.1 and 600.2, of which No 600.1 (built by Floridsdorf in 1897), formerly GKB No 30.06, is seen.

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Two further members of the varied steam locomotive fleet at Donawitz, seen on 7 September 1963, are 0-8-0T No 550.1 (built by Floridsdorf in 1940) and Prussian ‘T 16.1’ class 0-10-0T No 1000.1 (built by Schwartzkopff in 1913 as Königlich Preußische und Großherzoglich Hessische Staatseisenbahn No 8126 Cöln), which had become ÖBB No 694.503 following World War 2, and was acquired by ÖAM, Donawitz in December 1954.

In the background can be seen three of the varied fleet of 790mm gauge 0-4-0Ts.

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Industriebahn Timelkam - Ampflwang (WTK) The 10.5km (6 mile) standard gauge Industriebahn Timelkam - Ampflwang (also known as the Ampflwanger Bahn), operated by the Wolfsegg-Traunthaler Kohlenwerks AG (WTK), connected coal mines at Ampflwang with the Linz Salzburg line at Timelkam, where a coal-fired power station supplied by the WTK line was located. The line was dieselised in 1973, and coal mining at Ampflwang ended in 1995, resulting in the closure of the line, which was subsequently taken over by the Österreichische Gesellschaft für Eisenbahngeschichte (ÖGEG), connecting its substantial museum and depot at Ampflwang with the ÖBB main line.

An attractive 0-8-0T built by Hanomag in 1925, known on the Ampflwanger Bahn as Hanomag - although it is not clear whether it ever actually carried the name - is seen heading for Ampflwang with a train of 17 empty wagons from Timelkam on 8 June 1973.

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Approaching Ampflwang with its freight from Timelkam on 8 June 1973, Hanomag belonged to a standard industrial locomotive design built by manufacturer Hanomag between 1914 and 1927, and fitted with Heusinger (Walschaerts) valve gear. It had been rebuilt in 1959 with extended side tanks and the addition of a coal bunker behind the cab. Kept in reserve until 1979, it would subsequently be preserved in Germany.

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WTK No 3 emerges from a tree-lined section of line at the head of the 7.0am from Timelkam, consisting of a long rake of 4-wheel hopper and open wagons, on the damp and misty 9 June 1973, in the final days of steam-only operation on the Ampflwanger Bahn.

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Although also a 0-8-0T, in contrast with the non-superheated Hanomag, No 3 was a more modern, superheated locomotive. Built by Lokomotivfabrik Floridsdorf in 1944, No 3 was almost identical with ÖBB Class 392.

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The 7.0am from Timelkam has reached its destination on 9 June 1973, as No 3 passes the locomotive shed at Ampflwang. No 3 had been fitted with a Giesl ejector in 1959, but with the arrival of the first diesel in 1973, this fine locomotive would be withdrawn, and subsequently cut up.

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Peter Gray's Travels, Volume 2: Austria Narrow Gauge & Industry

Peter’s photographs are a record of a bygone era, allowing us to step back in time to an Austria now long disappeared, but captured for posterity by the lens of an accomplished photographer and enthusiast. The lines depicted in this book include the narrow gauge operations of the ÖBB and the Steiermärkische Landesbahnen, as well as the Zillertalbahn and Achenseebahn, and three contrasting industrial locations.

ISBN 978-1-913893-58-3

A companion volume, PETER GRAY’S TRAVELS Volume 1: Austria Standard Gauge covers the country’s standard gauge public lines.

£17.50

Volume 2: Austria Narrow Gauge & Industry

Compiled by Andrew Fox

Between 1958 and 1973, Peter Gray visited Austria several times. This volume contains Peter’s remarkable colour photographs of Austria’s narrow gauge and industrial lines, still operated largely by a wide variety of steam classes, in the last few years before the country’s railways were transformed by dieselisation, decline and closures. Over subsequent decades, several of the lines portrayed have sadly disappeared, and those which survive have been transformed by the effects of half a century of rationalisation and modernisation.

peter Gr ay’s tr avels

Compiled by Andrew Fox