AVENTURË Hiking Magazine

swiss alps edition I S S U E 1 J U LY 2 018

keys to the trails U N D E R S TA N D I N G T H E S I G N S TO H I K E T H E S W I S S A L P S

blissful escapes THE MOST A M AZIN G S W IS S A L P S E X P E R IE N C ES

cow culture W H E R E T H E M O U N TA I N S MOOOO-VE

FEATURES C O W C U LT U R E Where the Mountains Moooo-ve At Bolderhof Farm in Hemishofen, Switzerland, visitors participate in cow trekking, an opportunity to climb onto a dairy cow and ride through the rivers and woods of the Rhine lowlands.

DON’ T LOOK DOWN Riding a Glacier Aerial Cable Car One of the thrills of a visit to Zermatt, Switzerland, is going to visit its glacier. It’s not just that you can ski year-round here or that you can actually go inside.

KEYS TO THE TRAILS Understanding the Signs to Hike the Swiss Alps Learn about Switzerland’s sineage in the Alps, and the thoughts behind its simple system which is applied consistently across towns, rurual areas, and cities throughout the country. .

BLISSFUL ESCAPES The Most Amazing Swiss Alps Experiences A highlight of a recent European summer was the day I spent hiking in the Berner Oberland region of the Swiss Alps.

H I G H A LT I T U D E F E S T I V A L S Celebrate in the Swiss Alps this Summer Over the summer, Europe’s festival-goers can hop from canton to canton. Parties are not just at ground level but also into the mountains.

TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

departments EDITOR'S LETTER Aventurë Awaits in the Swiss Alps SIGHTS Trift Bridge: A Spectacular Suspension Bridge TRAILS Eiger Trail: A Thrilling Trek HISTORY Alps: The Lungs of Europe PA C K I N G L I ST Gear and Clothes for the Hike of Your Life TOP 10 Hikes to Work Off that Cheese LANDMARKS Chilloion Castle: A Pivotal Moment

68 70 73 76 80 84 90

TRIP BOOKING Must do Activities Based on the Weather PHOTOGRAPHY Mountaineering: An Instagram Story LODGING Null Stern: The Invisible Room C U LT U R E Hiking into Culutral Diversion: French, German, Engadine N AT I V E S P EC I ES Alpine Safari: The Big Five Native Species PLANTS Mountain Botanicals: Healers of the Body FOOD Bergghthus Aeschek: Cliffside Resturaunt

AVE N TU R Ë // 1

03 05 20 26 30 60 65

TREKKING THE TRAILS

EDITORIAL S TA FF E DI T OR I N C H IE F The re sa Q uede n fe ld CRE AT I VE DI R E C T O R Vi ck i M e lo n ey SE N I OR E DIT O R A usti n G ra ce C ON T RI BU T I N G E D IT O R S Ra che l Fi cco Ra che l S m i t h CON T RI BU T I N G WR IT E R S Pa tr i ck M a n t u ri Be n G i nde r A nd rew Ve n zi e Na te Bro ca to Tay lo r Ho ove r C ON T RI BU T I N G A R T IS T S M e la ni e Ed w a rd s Ja r re tt Pa tte rs on Em i ly R ud o l ph SPE CI AL T HA N K S A nd rew Fra n k I lya He fe t s Jo n A ntho ny S a ra Wi ng e rt

AVENTURË (ISSN 2626-2018) is published four times a year in January, April, July, and October

by Mountain Hiking Guide, 405 Grace Street, Estes Park, Colorado 80482 Issue 1, JULY 2018 Printed by Grace Publications Winter Park, Colorado. © Copyright 2018 AVENTURË and the individual contributors.

E D I TO R ' S L E T T E R

a ve nt u rë a w ai t s insw tishes al ps

With Aventurë, we show you all the adventures you don’t want to miss before the sun sets on summer. We are hiking to the Swiss Alps in this issue, which contain almost all the highest peaks in the Alps. This makes it the perfect to hike and enjoy beautiful scenic views from the peaks.

Our feature article in this issue focuses on what to expect while hiking in the Swiss Alps, where it teaches you about the different types of trails available to hike with your family. Continuing the trail, we will also feature Bernese Oberland’s unforgettable Swiss Alps experience.

By the end of this issue you will learn about all the things you need to know to hike the Swiss Alps before the season ends. From packing your bag to learning how to decode trail markers, in Switzerland, Aventurë will take you hiking from your home to the breath-taking destination.

Theresa Quedenfeld Editor in Chief

AV EN TU R Ë // 3

ith the beginning of the new year and summer well under-way, there are many possible exciting adventures to plan for this coming summer. Going away and exploring new destinations gives you fresh views, which are different than your everyday scenery. With going away, much of your time is spent planning, packing, and preparing for an escape. The anticipation of traveling produces a huge aura of excitement.

SIGHTS

TRIFT BRIDGE

a s pectacul ar su s pe ns io n br idge Written by Grimselwelt

ith the Trift gondola, you can reach the Trift valley with its majestic glacial surroundings open year round. From the top station, a 1.5 hours hike will lead you to the highlight of this daring valley — the Trift suspension bridge. Enjoy the jaw dropping and breath-taking view over the lake HIKING TIME: and glacier. If you want to pay a visit to the Windegg hut, you can 1h 30 from the top station of the choose between the direct path “Ketteliweg” (level T3) or the Trift gondola to the Trift Bridge “Family trail” (level T2). Surefootedness is required for the direct descent from the Windegg hut to the Trift top STARTING POINT: station. Starting at the Trift Bridge, an alpine route (level Top station Trift gondola T5) will lead you to the SAC Trift hut (approx. 3h).

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION: Bus stop Nessental, Triftbahn

LEVE L O F D IF F ICU LT Y BY T HE SAC T R E KKIN G S C A L E

e

th

e

m

dl

e

Ju

ne

TRAIL/TERRAIN

REQUIREMENTS

T2 Mountain hiking (white-red-white)

Trail with continuous path and balanced ascent.

Some surefootedness.

Elementary sense of direction.

T3, demanding mountain hiking (white-red-white)

Exposed sites may be secured with Good surefootedness. Average ropes or chains. Possible need sense of direction. Basic alpine to use hands for balance. Partly experience is important. exposed sites with fall hazard, scree, pathless jagged cliffed rocks.

T4 alpine hiking (white-blue-white)

The track is not necessarily available. At some sites, hands are needed to progress on the trail.

Exposed terrain, precarious grassy acclivities, jagged rocks, névé and snow-free glacier passages.

Familiarity with exposed terrain. Solid trekking shoes.

Ability for terrain assessment.

Alpine experience. Retreating from wheather may be rather challenging based on location.

.

AVE N TU R Ë // 5

g id Br n s o si ma en Tho p s Su emy ift Jer r T e by th s g ph n k i ra al og W ot h P

in

id

of

RATE

gear and clothes foo f ryot heur hikl ifee

Written by Edwin Thomas

AV E NT UR Ë // 3 0

witzerland is arguably Europe’s top hiking destination, described by the Rough Guides as featuring “some of Europe’s finest walking terrain, with enough variety to suit every taste.” One of the virtues of hiking in the beautiful country of Switzerland is that many of the major trails are “inn-to-inn,” stopping every night in a village or town which eliminates the need to haul a tent and camping equipment. A successful hiking trip requires care in selecting proper protective gear, clothing and other items to keep yourself protected in various climates and terrains.

HIKING BACKPA C K

HIK I N G G LO V E S

HIKING BOOTS

Hiking can frequently involve luggage transfer. If you are on a tour, you need only a day pack and light hiking boots in your backpack. If you strike out into the Alps independently, you need to carry everything you might need on your back. Consider a backpack with a weight-distributing belt.

Choose one waterproof shell or insulated glove with two sets of lighter-weight “action” gloves. The shell/insulated glove are worn only when necessary, for added warmth on summit day or in excessively wet/cold conditions. Some guides even use Atlas Gloves, which are gardening gloves with a rubber grip.

A piece of hiking gear that can make or break your hiking trip in Switzerland is your boots. Taking care of your feet are important. Heavy hiking boots are a must with good ankle support and possibly trekking poles. This will make your trip much easier and save you some foot pains once you get back from your trip.

B E ST H I KI N G BA C K PA C K S

B E S T HIKING GL OVES

BEST HIKING BOOTS

Osprey Atmos AG 65 REI Co-op Traverse 70 Gossamer Gear Mariposa 60

The Northface Etip Outdoor Research Versa Liner Black Diamond Soloist

Salomon Quest 4D 3 GTX Lowa Renegede GTX Mid Merrell Moab 2 Mid WP

PACKIN G LIST

WATERPROOF JACKET

SOF T S H E LL JA C K E T

M O I S T U R E WI C K I N G

The shield will repair you from wind and light rain. In case of heavy rain, it is always good to bring a poncho. In case you do not bring a poncho, be aware that the backpack will have a rain cover.

The jacket is of course fundamental in any mountain hiking trip. This insultating layer is an essential item that is breathable, quick drying, windproof, and highly water resistant. Similar to a sleeping bag, this insultating layer perfect for when you hike at sundown and it gets cold out.

Bring at least one t-shirt per day and eventually a long sleeves shirt for the nights. In terms of what kind of clothing to bring, cotton is always a bad choice for cross-country hiking. When it gets wet, it becomes heavy, loses its insulation value, and takes a long time to dry.

Hi ker ma k ing a trek o n the Vi a A lpina hi k i n g tra il i n th e S wiss Al ps .

AV E NT UR Ë // 31

Pho to gra phs

by B ro d ie Vi ssers

KEYS U N D E R S TA

NDING THE

To HIKE T

HE SWISS b y ta n ya

SIGNS ALPS

zurich

t

a r

s l i

he Swiss sense of organization

It’s all very logical, very orderly and very

restaurant at that destination. The bus,

definitely speaks to some part of

Swiss. Practically every mountain town

train or gondola symbol means you can

my psyche, but it is the mountains

has a cable car or lift to carry you up the

catch public transportation there.

that speak to my soul­­—there is nothing

mountain so you don’t have to hike up

quite like hiking in the Swiss Alps. I've

first to get the views. Most resorts have,

realized what makes hiking in Switzerland

easy panorama trails for casual walkers,

unique is its merely perfect signage and

but there are trails for those who want

the amazing experiences along the way.

a challenge. Though people who want a

In true Swiss style, there is a national law that requires all village, mountain

challenge usually come with a plan and appropriate gear to make the special trek.

and high-altitude paths to be neatly

Most mountains have a restaurant at the

signposted. The Federal Act on Footpaths

top so you can relax and enjoy the view

and Hiking Trails requires each canton

without even walking. Trails are generally

(country) to plan, maintain and mark

well marked in Switzerland. You’ll either

all the trails. It’s a simple system, but it

see yellow diamonds or white-red-white

is applied consistently in each city and

stripes painted on stuff. Other countries

rural area throughout the country is what

use different colors, so don’t get confused.

makes it so useful. The routes go from city

Switzerland uses different icons on their

centers to alpine ridge lines, including

trail signs to help you understand where

sidewalks, side streets, shared-use paths,

transportation or different places are.

and flat dirt footpaths.

The wine glass icon means you’ll find a

H i k i n g T e r m i n o l o gy Here are a few terms that will help in the German-speaking Swiss alps.

Wanderweg Walking path.

Feuerstelle Picnic area with fire pits, usually with wood.

Schutzgebiet Nature reserve.

There may be hiking, fire, or picnic restrictions.

Bergstation Mountain cable car station.

Lehrpfad Educational path, the trail will have info signboards along the trail.

Hunde an der Leine führen Dogs are required to be on a leash in certain areas.

AVE N TU R Ë // 36

It is th e m ou ntai ns that speak to my sou l— th ere is n oth i n g qu ite li ke h i ki n g i n th e Swiss

are generally accessible trails and usually determined for foot traffic. They generally lead aside from roads carrying motorized traffic and are usually not surfaced with asphalt or concrete. These trails are easily hikable for those with not much hiking experience. These trails involve no special demands or requirements.

Steep sections are negotiated with steps. Areas with the danger of falling, tripping, or rocky ground are protected by hand rails. Signalization for hiking trails is yellow.

are challenging mountain trails. They sometimes lead people across glaciers and rockfall areas. Structural provisions may have been undertaken and these would in any case be limited with a danger of falling or getting injured.

Users of Alpine routes must be surefooted, have a head for heights, be physically very fit, climb with their hands, and know how to use ropes and pick axe. They must have knowledge of the dangers within the mountains. Signalization of Alpine routes is a blue signpost with white-blue-white tip.

are hiking trails, which partly access difficult terrain. They are mostly steep, narrow and exposed in places. Particularly difficult sections are secured with ropes or chains. These trails are challenging.

Users must be surefooted, have a head for heights, be physically fit, and have knowledge of dangers in the mountains. Solid boots with good sole profiles, and equipment appropriate to weather

AVE N TU R Ë // 37

conditions along with topographical maps are best suited for the hike. Practice before attempting.◊

BY PHOEBE

e all need a scenic mountain escape experience in our lives and the Bernese Oberland in Switzerland is as picturesque as it comes!

Our love for Switzerland began back in December 2015 we when spent two days in the small chocolate box village of Saas Fee with the promise of a guaranteed white Christmas, and it delivered!

AVE N TU R Ë // 52

It was white and magical and we knew we would be a place to travel back to.

In planning for our great return trip, the

Jungfrau Region in Bernese Oberland just kept popping up. This area is north of the biggest peaks, has a lush green landscape in the Summer with white icy mountain tops and an incredible contrast of low valleys to high peaks. Also, cute mountain villages, were great for hiking. We were totally sold on everything we saw!

We flew into Zurich, spent one night in Lucerne and then two nights in the quaint mountain village of Mürren.

We only had three things on our agenda:

BROWN

HIKE MO U N TA I N S PHOTOGRAPH EVERYTHING E AT A L L CHEESES So here is to our outstanding Bernese Oberland summer adventure!

Mürren was our base and it was so perfect!

To get the most of your experience you

SWISS CHEESE FONDUE Fondue dates back to the 17th century, where it was called “Käss mit Wein zu kochen”, “to cook cheese with wine”. It calls for grated or cut-up cheese to be melted, and for bread to be dipped in.

“ Th e Ber n ese Oberl and i n S w itzer land is as p ic t u resq u e as it co mes !”

This is a easy hike for hiking newbieslike us to ease ourselves in. It’s just 35 minutes downhill and 45 back up.

Chris and I are not experienced hikers by any stretch of the imagination. We needed

to ease ourselves in in to the experience.

It’s just 35 minutes downhill and 45 back up. It really was not that bad of a hike.

Chris and I are not experienced hikers so we felt very satisfied with ourselves on completion of this hike! The vistas were unbelievable. It’s one of my favourite

Swiss Cheese Union named fondue the Swiss national dish to increase cheese consumption.

1970 The extension of the name “fondue” used to describe dishes served in a communal hot pot dates to New York.

First recipe for modern fondue was published.

Switzerland introduced Americans to fondue during the World’s Fair.

places and I know I’ll be back again. ◊

Much Love, C+ P

AVE N TU R Ë // 53

want to stay in a mountain village. We stayed at the Hotel Regina which had lovely minimalist alpine decor, friendly staff, great breakfast and incredible views!

The earliest recipe for cheese fondue comes from a book in Zurich.

alpine safari tnathe ivebig sfive pecies Written by Lorenz Fischer

ALPINE M AR MOT

IBEX

Resembling fat squirrels, marmots have a high-pitched chirp. They can be found in meadows and grasslands.

They are mountain goats most wanted for their meat and horns. They are thought to have medicinal properties. Find them in the rocky alpine areas.

CHAMOIS They are hoofed goat-antelopes who are nimble and quick. Chamois are found in high alpine meadows, as well as forested areas in the Jura, Switzerland.

NATIVE SPECIES

RED DEER Named the “Animal of the Year 2017”

by Swiss conservation, the red deer is Switzerland’s biggest wild animal. Deer can be found in much of the Swiss Alps, particularly Graubünden.

AVE N TU R Ë // 81

GOLDEN EAGL E With a wingspan of up to 2.2 metres, the so-called “king of the air” is an impressive sight in Swiss skies. They are found all over the tall mountainous Swiss Alps.

FOOD

BERGGHTHUS AESCHEK Still, to this day and time, it clings to the foot of a vertical cliff. Now, is it just me, or does this place take adventurous eating to a whole new level!

ave you ever heard of Berggasthaus Aescher-Wildkirchli? Built over 170 years ago to originally house farmers and their livestock, this mountain hut perched high above in the Swiss Alps has since evolved into one of the most unique restaurants in the world. Tables are on a first-come, first-serve basis, so arrive early if you want to beat the crowd. What makes this place fascinating, is how it was really precariously built into the large mountain.

st

i

tr

ad

na

l

di

sh

hb

r

The views are breathtaking when you get there. From the extensive high plateau with a rich alpine flora you will get a magnificent view across the Appenzell hill-landscape, Sankt Gall, Thurgau and Lake Constance. Yet, you will really have to work for this one of a kind Swiss meal, as getting to this cliffside restaurant won’t be any ole simple task. To even access this mountain eatery, it is a challenge in itself. It is not the easiest place to get to.

.

do en ut iR on Ng by s ph ra og ot Ph

AVE N TU R Ë // 9 0

Ch

ik

we

ne

ng

er

e

Rö

,a

o iti

e Sw

s ha

n ow

Instead of rushing through the views on your ride up, this is your chance to enjoy nature’s finest at a leisurely pace.

They open early at 7:30 a.m. for those morning early risers, but lunch doesn’t start until 11 a.m. Aescher Guesthouse does not offer any type of reservations.

cl iffs ide r est ur aunt

Written by Kathrine McLamb

You’ll have to ride in an aerial cable car and hike through a prehistoric cave to adventure there and enjoy yourself.

But don’t worry — once you arrive, you’ll be welcomed with a picturesque panorama of the Alpstein mountain chain, giving the phrase “dinner with a view” an entirely new meaning. Sound like your kind of thrilling adventure?

Before you start planning your visit, note that Aescher Guesthouse is closed during the winter. It will reopen for the 2018 season in May (and be open until November 1). Thrifty Traveler notes that the previously offered overnight stays are no longer available. Don’t let that keep you from the view, though. Even a few hours at on the side of a cliff is a one-of-a-kind yummy dining experience.

LO C AT IO N B e rn h a rd & N i co le A e s c h e r K n e c htle 9 0 57 We i ss ba d /A I +47 71 79 9 11 42

F O R E D U C AT I O N A L U S E O N LY