THE DEEPEST

PACIFIC PARADISE

Diving into the world beneath French Polynesia

by Ali Wunderman

For 30 years I stayed floating on the surface, peering down into the depths of the ocean and wondering what mysteries were out of my grasp. Ear problems had plagued me since birth. After several childhood surgeries to correct my hearing, going even a few feet underwater had been painful and headache-inducing. So I had been content with simply snorkeling.

But when the opportunity to visit French Polynesia arose, I knew that much of what could be explored in that Pacific paradise was underwater. Tahiti and the rest of the French Polynesian islands are known for being one of the world’s top diving destinations. I didn’t want to miss out, so I booked an appointment with my doctor and got the all clear to attempt equalizing beneath the cerulean waves of the South Pacific.

The prospect of SCUBA diving both enthralled and terrified me. What if I couldn’t equalize? What if I panicked and spit out the regulator supplying me with air? Fortunately, Moana, my dive instructor on the island of Mo’orea, had heard it all before and assured me that I would be fine. We would be practicing all the steps to a successful dive before trying it out at the relatively shallow depth of 20 feet.

As soon as I fell backwards in the water, the weights strapped to my hips pulling me down, I understood why one’s first dive is called ‘a baptismal dive.’ It was like being reborn, like being initiated into a secret world that had been in front of me yet obscured my whole life. I was enshrined in the wonder, the silence, the gentle grip of the sea supporting me as I breathed calmly underwater. Even when my weights suddenly slipped off and I began to rise, I did not worry. I had discovered an entire galaxy existing a few feet under the sea, and nothing could stop me from exploring further.

French Polynesia is made up of 118 distinct islands and atolls and, if I could, I would dive VIDEO

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"I understood why one’s first dive is called ‘a baptismal dive.’ It was like

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"I was only a few feet down when a pod of dolphins swam over me, playing in the current ."

them all. Fortunately, my undersea journey continued on Rangiroa, Tahiti’s largest atoll and a surprising home to one of the most unique vineyards in the world. But my mind was not on the shore. I was thinking only of Tiputa Pass – one of two entry points for the tide into the Rangiroa lagoon – and the rumor that bottlenose dolphins liked to gather there. Charlotte would be guiding the way this time, and while wildlife is never a guarantee, she did warn me not to try and ride a dolphin like a previous guest had.

Returning to the sea’s embrace was divine. I felt at ease, at home. I was only a few feet down when a pod of dolphins swam over me, playing in the current as I reminded myself to breathe. I had seen plenty of dolphins from the shore and from boats, but never had I been beneath them. It was a whole new perspective – one impossible to achieve from snorkeling alone. French Polynesia is known for its rich biodiversity and, at a remote atoll like Rangiroa, it was even more pronounced. But I had farther still to go.

The last stop on my tour of French Polynesia’s dive sites was Tikehau, 12 miles east of Rangiroa. Despite their relative close proximity and sharing the same water, it felt worlds away. This may have been due to my guide for the excursion – Denis Grosmaire, a champion freediver and owner of Tikehau Ocean Tour. His experience growing up in the water and passion for its creatures drove him to collaborate with the government on protecting sharks, leading to French Polynesia becoming home to the largest shark sanctuary in the world. Today, divers reap the benefits of his activism and expertise.

Even though I had only tried diving twice, I was ready to give freediving a shot, though I wouldn’t be attempting anything close to Denis’s 105 meter record. It was to be an exhilarating day exploring various coral formations and looking out for the region’s famous tiger sharks.

Right away, I was granted a gift by the magical waters of French Polynesia. Within minutes of the boat pulling away from the soft sand lining Tikehau, Denis motioned for me to peek below the surface. There I saw the most fascinating, magical animal I have ever laid eyes upon – the manta ray. It glided through the water with a shimmering, 16-foot wing span, unbothered and unhurried. This was the manta ray’s world and I was merely visiting it.

My adventures in the Tahitian sea are only the beginning of what will hopefully be a lifetime of diving at great depths around the globe.

I’ve learned that just a few feet can make all the difference in opening the door to a magical world right here on Earth. "The manta ray glided through the water with a shimmering, 16-foot wing span, unbothered and unhurried. This was the manta ray’s world and I was merely visiting it."

"My guide for the excursion – Denis Grosmaire, a champion freediver."

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