100 Jaar Groote Oorlog / The Great War Centenary

100 JAAR GROOTE OORLOG THE GREAT WAR CENTENARY 1

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Na vele intense jaren ligt ‘100 Jaar Groote Oorlog’ achter ons. Dit boek kijkt met veel verwondering terug op ‘100 Jaar Groote Oorlog’ en de onvergetelijke projecten waaraan we werkten.

derden mensen zich hebben ingespannen om die verhalen zorgvuldig en tactvol te brengen in kunstwerken, tentoonstellingen, events en musea. Of gewoon, van mens tot mens.

Ja, het is een selectieve terugblik die de bijdrage van Toerisme Vlaanderen in de herdenking als uitgangspunt neemt. Een breder, objectiever beeld laten we graag over aan de wetenschap en de media.

Laat ons niet vergeten – zeker niet die kwalijke oorlog, maar ook niet deze eeuwherdenking en de vele mensen die elkaar vonden om te herinneren, om te discussiëren, om samen iets tot stand te brengen.

Bezoekersaantallen en andere economische kengetallen vindt u ook niet op de volgende bladzijden. Dat we onze doelen ruim hebben gehaald, mag hier nu volstaan. Liever sta ik stil bij de diepere betekenis van de eeuwherdenking: dat honderdduizenden mensen naar Vlaanderen kwamen om zich te bezinnen over oorlog. Dat ze de kans kregen om anderen te ontmoeten, met andere verhalen vanuit andere tijden en plekken. Dat hon-

Dit fotoboek wil dié herinnering vasthouden – het is gemaakt uit dankbaarheid.

Peter De Wilde Administrateur-generaal Toerisme Vlaanderen 19 november 2018

After many years of intense work, the Great War Centenary is behind us. This book looks back in wonder on the Great War Centenary and the unforgettable project we worked on.

It is a selective review that takes the contribution made by VISITFLANDERS to the commemoration as its starting point. We’ll leave a broader, more objective overview to the academics and media.

You won’t find any visitor numbers or other economic results on the following pages.

The fact that we achieved our goals is enough. I would rather focus on the deeper significance of the 100-year commemoration: the fact that hundreds of thousands of people came to Flanders to reflect on the war. That they were given the opportunity to meet other people, with different stories from different times and locations. And the

fact that hundreds of people worked hard to carefully and tactfully tell these stories through art, exhibitions, events and museums. Or simply from person to person.

Let us not forget – neither the horrific war nor this commemoration and the many people who came together to remember, discuss and create something together.

This photo book offers a permanent record of the commemoration; it is the result of deep gratitude.

Peter De Wilde CEO VISITFLANDERS 19 November 2018

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2012 DE AANLOOP WARMING UP

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2012 Al enkele jaren werkt Toerisme Vlaanderen achter de schermen aan de voorbereiding van ‘100 Jaar Groote Oorlog’. Er is een voorstudie, samen met Westtoer. Er komt een subsidieronde voor investeringsprojecten in bezoekersinfrastructuur (44 projecten, 15 miljoen euro) en twee subsidierondes voor evenementen tijdens de herdenkingsjaren (24 projecten, 10,9 miljoen euro). Toerisme Vlaanderen stelt het geld ter beschikking, maar het zijn de vele projectpartners die het echte werk op het terrein aanvatten. Al in 2012 worden de eerste resultaten zichtbaar…

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/ Memorial Museum Passchendaele 1917, Zonnebeke

VISITFLANDERS has already been working ‘behind the scenes’ on preparations for the Great War Centenary for a few years. A preliminary study is conducted with Westtoer. There is a subsidy round for investment projects in visitor infrastructure (44 projects, 15 million euros) and two subsidy rounds for events during the commemoration years (24 projects, 10.9 million euros). VISITFLANDERS provides the money but it is the many project partners who actually carry out the work. A few results are already clear by 2012...

/ Memorial Museum Passchendaele 1917, Zonnebeke

/ Talbot House, Poperinge

/ Talbot House, Poperinge

/ Bezoekerscentrum Lijssenthoek, Poperinge / Visitor Centre Lijssenthoek, Poperinge

/ In Flanders Fields Museum, Ieper / In Flanders Fields Museum, Ypres

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/ Bezoekerscentrum Lijssenthoek, Poperinge / Visitor Centre Lijssenthoek, Poperinge

OP TIJD‌ In juni opent het In Flanders Fields Museum (Ieper) opnieuw de deuren, dubbel zo ruim en met een volledig vernieuwde inrichting. In de herfst volgt het nieuwe bezoekerscentrum bij Lijssenthoek Military Cemetery, en de vernieuwde Dodencellen (beide Poperinge). Dat deze plekken zo snel klaar zijn zou een zegen blijken want vanaf 2013 gaat het aantal bezoekers fors de hoogte in.

ON TIME‌ In June, the In Flanders Fields Museum (Ypres) opens its doors again, now with twice as much space and a completely renovated layout. In autumn, the new visitor centre at Lyssenthoek Military Cemetery follows suit, as do the updated Death Cells (both in Poperinge). The fact that these locations are ready so early turns out to be a blessing as the number of visitors begins to increase considerably from 2013.

/ Bezoekerscentrum Lijssenthoek, Poperinge / Visitor Centre Lijssenthoek, Poperinge

/ Dodencellen, Poperinge / Death Cells, Poperinge

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De herdenking in Vlaanderen krijgt haar eigen logo.

Een eerste brochure voor reisprofessionals geeft een overzicht van de herdenking in Vlaanderen voor een internationaal publiek. Er zouden nog vijf edities van deze ‘trade’-brochure volgen.

Ondertussen leren partners elkaars projecten beter kennen tijdens overlegmomenten, zoals de ‘Ontmoeting’ die Toerisme Vlaanderen in december in Brussel organiseert.

The commemoration in Flanders is given its own logo. The initial brochure for travel professionals provides an overview of the commemoration in Flanders for an international audience. Five further editions of this ‘trade’ brochure would follow.

In the meantime, partners are learning more about one another’s projects during meetings such as the ‘Ontmoeting’ that VISITFLANDERS organises in Brussels in December.

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2013 READY, SET, GO READY, SET, GO

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/ Talbot House, Poperinge

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/ Memorial Museum Passchendaele 1917, Zonnebeke

2013

Koortsachtige activiteit, want het is de bedoeling om zo veel mogelijk investeringsprojecten tijdig af te hebben. Onder meer het Memorial Museum Passchendaele 1917 (Zonnebeke) en Talbot House (Poperinge) halen de meet dit jaar. Tegelijk zijn vaak dezelfde mensen en organisaties volop bezig evenementen voor te bereiden. De internationale promotie komt op kruissnelheid.

/ Memorial Museum Passchendaele 1917, Zonnebeke

There is feverish activity because the idea is to have as many investment projects as possible completed on time. Organisations such as the Memorial Museum Passchendaele 1917 (Zonnebeke) and Talbot House (Poperinge) cross the finish line this year. At the same time, it is often the same people and organisations that are working flat out to organise events. International promotion is coming up to speed.

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OVER DE GRENZEN Zo’n 50 Britse touroperators komen op uitnodiging van Toerisme Vlaanderen poolshoogte nemen. Wegens tÊ grote belangstelling volgt in september een tweede editie, dit keer met 30 deelnemers waaronder voor het eerst enkele Ierse bedrijven.

Toerisme Vlaanderen neemt deel aan de Belgische handelsmissie naar India, en mag tijdens een toeristisch seminar niet alleen 80 Indische reisprofessionals begroeten, maar ook Prinses Astrid. De herdenking in Vlaanderen krijgt veel belangstelling.

/ Trade workshop

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CROSSING BORDERS VISITFLANDERS invites about 50 British tour operators to come and visit the region. A second trip is organised in September for another 30 participants, including the first Irish companies.

VISITFLANDERS also takes part in the Belgian trade mission to India and is able to meet-and-greet not only 80 Indian travel professionals but also Princess Astrid during a tourism seminar. The commemoration in Flanders attracts a lot of attention.

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WTM Vlaanderen is ‘premier partner’ op de belangrijkste professionele toerismebeurs ter wereld: WTM Londen.

Voor de ruim 50.000 aanwezigen is ‘Flanders Fields’ onontkoombaar: op draagtassen, wandelgangen, eettafels, spandoeken… maar nog het meest op de gloednieuwe stand van Toerisme Vlaanderen.

WTM Flanders is the ‘premier partner’ at the world’s number one professional tourism fair: WTM London.

For the more than 50,000 visitors, ‘Flanders Fields’ is everywhere: on carrier bags, on walkways, on tables, on banners, and best of all, at the brand new stand for VISITFLANDERS.

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/ Lijssenthoek Military Cemetery, Poperinge / Lyssenthoek Military Cemetery, Poperinge

VOOR IEDEREEN

/ Toegankelijk Toerisme Award / Accessible Tourism Award

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/ Talbot House, Poperinge

‘100 Jaar Groote Oorlog’ moet een ervaring zijn die iedereen kan meemaken. Daarom bemiddelt het Steunpunt Vakantieparticipatie voor mensen met een kleine portemonnee. Voor personen met beperkingen stippelt Toerisme Vlaanderen een uitdagend project uit om niet enkel voldoende ‘points of interest’ maar de héle vakantiebeleving zo toegankelijk mogelijk te maken. In 2013 wordt onze bestemming op WTM beloond met de ‘Accessible Tourism Award’.

EVERYONE INCLUDED The Great War Centenary has to be an event in which everyone can take part. That is why Steunpunt Vakantieparticipatie (Holiday Participation Centre) represents people who have less money to spare. VISITFLANDERS also outlines a challenging project which aims to make not only a sufficient number of ‘points of interest’ but the entire holiday experience as accessible as possible for visitors with a disability. In 2013, our destination received the ‘Accessible Tourism Award’ at WTM.

/ Westfront, Nieuwpoort

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DE CAMPAGNE START

THE CAMPAIGN STARTS

November 2013: hoog tijd om te starten met de publiekscampagne. In onze toolkit zitten een reeks campagnebeelden, een sterke baseline en een filmpje.

Op Facebook gaat de pagina ‘flandersfields1418’ online. We delen klaprooszaadjes uit. En dan is er nog het ‘Worldwide Poppyfield’, een app waarmee je een virtuele klaproos kunt planten ter nagedachtenis van één van de 600.000 slachtoffers van de Groote Oorlog in België. De ‘Namenlijst’ van het In Flanders Fields Museum is daarvoor de bron en inspiratie.

November 2013: it’s high time to start the publicity campaign. Our tool kit includes a series of campaign images, a strong baseline and a film. The page ‘flandersfields1418’ goes live on Facebook. We hand out poppy seeds. And let’s not forget the ‘Worldwide Poppy field’, an app that allows you to plant a virtual poppy to commemorate one of the 600,000 victims of the Great War in Belgium. The ‘Names List’ of the In Flanders Fields Museum provides a source of inspiration.

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/ Facebook Worldwide Poppy field app

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ETHIEK Zullen de toeristische spelers de herdenking wel zorgvuldig aanpakken? Of gaat de commerciële logica overheersen? Deze kritische vraag wordt meer dan eens gesteld. Westtoer neemt het voortouw om de ‘principes voor een ethisch en meerstemmig herdenkingstoerisme’ uit te puren. Wat intuïtief al aanwezig was, wordt nu een heldere toetssteen om bij te dragen tot een waardevolle herdenking.

ETHICS Will the key tourism industry players handle the commemoration with the necessary sensitivity? Or will commercial considerations take precedence?

This critical question is posed more than once.

Westtoer takes the helm in refining the ‘principles of ethical and harmonious commemorative tourism’. The concepts, which had previously been intuitive, become clear cornerstones for contributing towards a valuable commemoration.

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/ ANZAC Day Ceremonie op Polygon Wood / ANZAC Day Ceremony at Polygon Wood

Verdieping Deepening

Toegankelijkheid Accessibility

Meerstemmigheid Multi-voiced Goed gastheerschap Good hospitality

Internationalisering Internationalization

Vredesboodschap Peace message

Respect Respect

/ Menenpoort, Ieper / Meningate, Ypres

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2014 IN DE SCHIJNWERPERS VAN DE WERELD THE WORLD IS WATCHING 31

2014

En dan begint de eeuwherdenking. De media-aandacht is enorm en komt uit alle hoeken van de wereld. Het is kwestie om die schijnwerpers ook op Vlaanderen te krijgen. We benadrukken dat je kunt reizen naar plekken waar de sporen van de oorlog nog zichtbaar zijn.

Dat kan zeker in Vlaanderen, want we zijn klaar om de bezoekers een unieke ervaring aan te reiken.

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Thursday 6, November 2014

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And then the 100-year commemoration begins. Media coverage is vast and comes from all four corners of the globe. It is now important to shine the spotlight on Flanders too. We emphasise the fact that you can travel to locations where traces of the war can still be seen. This is certainly true in Flanders as we are ready to offer visitors a unique experience.

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Ypres is the perfect base for visiting First World War battle sites and memorials

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Nov 08, 2014 08:00

By Iain Mayhew

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In the First World War centenary year, Iain Mayhew says the restored Belgian town of Ypres is an ideal base for visiting poignant battlefield sites

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YPRES

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Shrien Dewani trial: Live updates from Keyword: Visit Flanders court as honeymoon murder case continues As a local councillor he had organised the evacuation of thousands of

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owner. All FT content is copyright The Financial Times Ltd. of towns and villages Strictly Come away from the fighting which had raged for more

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than two months across northern France and Belgium.

Dancing: Former contestants defend Ola Jordan after

Aime van Nieuwenhove, a wealthy lace merchant in the pretty Flemish

Now Ypres, with its magnificent 14th century Cloth Hall, ancient

town of Ypres, was a worried man in November 1914.

ramparts, cobbled squares and gabled houses, was well and truly in the bullying claims First World War front line.

Reproduced by Gorkana Group under licence from the NLA (newspapers), CLA (magazines), FT (Financial Times/ft.com) or other copyright owner. No It wasfrom thetheonly Belgian town of any size still in Allied hands and its further copying (including printing of digital cuttings), digital reproduction/forwarding of the cutting is permitted except under licence copyright owner.

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trying to convince neutral countries such as Bulgaria and Romania to join

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the war on their side. It was also Germany’s main obstacle to an advance on the Channel ports of Dunkirk and Calais.

But for the moment – and, as it turned out, for the next four years –

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Ypres was in a salient, an embarrassing bump in the German lines which

ANDY CAPP

Andy Capp - 10th November 2014

they were determined to iron out with massive artillery bombardments, the first use of mustard gas in the history of warfare and brutal frontal assaults.

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In 1914 the 164,000 British troops who defended Ypres – or “Wipers”, as the Tommies called it – hunkered down behind its ancient walls, headed out from the town’s Menin Gate to dig trenches in its wet, cloying soil and fought and died in

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the mud of nearby Polygon Wood, Messines and Armentieres.

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Armageddon was hammering at the gates of Ypres, but that wasn’t Aime van Nieuwenhove’s main concern.

He was more worried about British soldiers breaking into his home, commandeering the wine in his well-stocked cellar and making a mess of Reproduced by Gorkana under licence from the NLA (newspapers), CLA (magazines), FT (Financial Times/ft.com) or other copyright owner. No further copying (including printing of digital cuttings), digital reproduction/forwarding of the cutting is permitted except under licence from the copyright owner. All FT content is copyright The Financial Times Ltd.

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his garden.

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In fact, he loved his handsome gabled house so much that at first he would brave the pulverising German shelling to live in the basement.

Even when the barrage was at its height and he was ordered to leave town, he would sneak back to check his beloved garden.

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One entry in his diary reads: “Calm until 11am, then a dozen shells fell all of a sudden... I went to investigate and part of my garden wall had been damaged. I was obliged to shore it up with planks to prevent the soldiers from getting into our premises...

“I made sure I double-locked the door before I left.”

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Aime was a kindly man, who helped many of his townsfolk find refuge away from the front line. However, his touching devotion to his property seems naive now. By July 1915, there wasn’t just a hole in his wall – his house was just a hole in the ground, along with almost every other

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building in Ypres, including its famous Cloth Hall.

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NEDERLAND THE NETHERLANDS

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SONDERTHEMA

DER TAGESSPIEGEL

100 JAHRE ERSTER WELTKRIEG Gedenken

NR. 22 058 / MITTWOCH, 28. MAI 2014

CHINA

und Erinnern in Berlin und Belgien

SchĂśnheit geschundener Landschaft In Ypern und Umgebung tobten einst blutige Schlachten – heute lädt die Region mit Fahrradrouten, Museen und Gedenkstätten zur Entdeckung ein Von Rolf Brockschmidt Stolz reckt sich der Belfried der lang gestreckten Tuchhallen von Ypern in die HĂśhe – ein Zeugnis hoher flämischer Baukunst und ein Denkmal der einst berĂźhmten flämischen Tuchindustrie. Doch der beeindruckende Bau von 1304 ist nicht das Original, sondern die Rekonstruktion nach der vĂślligen ZerstĂśrung 1914 durch deutsche Truppen . In den Tuchhallen befindet sich heute das 2012 neu gestaltete „In Flanders Fields Museum“ (IFFM), das seinen Namen nach dem berĂźhmten Gedicht von John McCrae erhalten hat.

Das Museum erzählt mit mehr als 2000 Exponaten, Touchscreens, interaktiven Armbändern, Videoprojektionen und Klanglandschaften die Geschichte dieser

DER ERSTE

WELT KRIEG

600 000 Tonskulpturen sollen an die Gefallenen erinnern heiĂ&#x; umkämpften Region. Es ist zugleich zentraler Ausgangspunkt fĂźr die Besucher der Westhoek, der westlichsten Ecke Flanderns, wo insgesamt 600 000 Soldaten aller Nationen und Zivilisten den Tod fanden oder vermisst wurden.

Nicht umsonst wird Bundeskanzlerin Angela Merkel dieses Museum im Gedenkjahr 2014 besuchen. Die flämische Regionalregierung hat fßr die kommenden vier Jahre ein umfangreiches Gedenkprogramm in Auftrag gegeben, das der Erinnerung an den Ersten Weltkrieg gewidmet, aber auch als nach vorne orientiertes internationales Friedensprojekt zu verstehen ist.

Das Museum erinnert vor allem an die Menschen, die unter dem Krieg zu leiden hatten. Mit einem interaktiven Armband, das der Besucher am Eingang bekommt, wählt er eine Person, deren Schicksal er durch die ganze Ausstellung immer wieder verfolgen kann.

Zusätzlich wird in ständigen Wechselausstellungen der Chronologie des Krie-

Bewegender Ort in Ypern ist die Ge- risch bedeutenden Orten des Ersten Welt- sich ganz dem Gedenkjahr verschrieben. denkstätte Menentor, ein ehemaliges kriegs konzipiert, denn die Landschaft ist Krzysztof Penderecki hat unter VerwenStadttor, in dessen Bogen die Namen von neben den Museen, Gedenkstätten und dung von Texten von Erasmus und Spi55 000 Gefallenen und Vermissten gemei- SoldatenfriedhĂśfen, wo oft weiĂ&#x;e Grab- noza ein Oratorium fĂźr 1000 Sänger aus Ă&#x;elt wurden. Seit 1928 findet täglich um steine in Divisionsstärke das unvorstell- allen kriegsteilnehmenden Ländern und 20 Uhr eine Last-Post-Zeremonie statt, bare AusmaĂ&#x; des Sterbens sinnfällig sym- ein Symphonieorchester komponiert, das bei der vier Trompeter der Freiwilligen bolisieren, Teil der Erinnerung. am 9. November seine WelturauffĂźhrung Feuerwehr Ypern in Dankbarkeit an diejeZu den neu gestalteten Museen gehĂśrt als Zeichen des Friedens erfahren wird. nigen erinnern, dieihre Stadt verteidigtha- das Memorial Museum „Passchendaele Am Eingang des deutschen Soldatenben. FĂźr eine Stunde ruht dann der Ver- 1917“ in Zonnebeke, wo allein innerhalb friedhofs in Vladlso steht die Skulptur kehr, der vom Zentrum der Stadt ins Umland, den Ypern-Bogen fĂźhrte. Tausende ANZEIGE alliierter Soldaten waren diesen Weg auf das Schlachtfeld gegangen und nie wieder zurĂźckgekehrt.

Die Stille, die von 19 Uhr 30 bis 20 Uhr 30 die Zeremonie umschlieĂ&#x;t, kann einen auch in der wunderschĂśnen Umgebung berĂźhren. Denn es besteht ein bizarrer Kontrast zwischen der lieblichen grĂźnen flämischen Landschaft und dem Horror, der hier vor 100 Jahren vier Jahre lang gewĂźtet und die Landschaft bis heute verän19141918 29.05.–30.11.2014 dert hat. Besonders wenn die MohnbluDeutsches Historisches Museum ∙ Unter den Linden 2 ∙ 10117 Berlin ∙ www.dhm.de ∙ Täglich 10–18 Uhr men blĂźhen, die ersten Blumen, die nach demTobender Schlacht und demUmpflĂźgen des Bodens durch Tausende von Granaten wie zum Trotz immer wieder gedie- von 100 Tagen mehr als eine halbe Mil- „Trauernde Eltern“ von Käthe Kollwitz, hen.JohnMcCrae hatsie mitseinem bewe- lion Soldaten fĂźr gerade einmal acht Kilo- die sie ihrem Sohn gewidmet hat, der sich genden Gedicht „In Flanders Fields“ be- meter Geländegewinn gefallen sind. Dort gegen ihren Willen freiwillig gemeldet FLANDERN rĂźhmt gemacht. ist rekonstruiert, wie sich das Leben der hatte und mit 18 Jahren getĂśtet wurde. In (ct). Vor 100 Jah1918 steckte Der sich eine Amerikanerin etwa unter der Erde in den wirkt Koekelaere ein Käthe-Kollbegann das groĂ&#x;e Morden.

HĂźgel mit denBriten KĂśnigsgräbern von oder Vergina vonbefindet auĂ&#x;ensich ren im Gedenken an den im selben Jahr an SchĂźtzengräben abgespielt hat – im Som- witz-Museum.

Der 1. Weltkrieg. Die Urkatarecht unscheinbar..

Fotos: einer LungenentzĂźndung gestorbenen mer wie im Winter, bei Sonne, Regen, Eis Christian Mit einem Wohlt internationalen Kunstprostrophewird des 20. Jahrhunderts, Dichter eine Mohnblume ans Revers und und Schnee. Der Yserturm bei Kaaskerke jekt „Comingworldrememberme“ rasch hatten vor allem die Veteranenver- wurde in diesem Jahr ebenfalls als Mu- eine Verbindung zwischen denes 600heute 000 wie prosaisch heiĂ&#x;t. bände der Alliierten diese Tradition Ăźber- seum Ăźber den Ersten Weltkrieg neu kon- Opfern von damals und den Menschen eseinem damals wirklich war, nommen. Heute ist in den angelsächsi- zipiert. heute gelegt. Jedermann Wie kann in schen Ländern die rote Mohnblume das Aber auch die anderen flämischen kleinen Workshop eine Tonskulptur er- ermessen. Ein Bekann keiner Zeichen des Gedenkens an die Toten Städte bieten ein umfangreiches stellen, die mitII. einem VERGINA (ct). alEs ist nur eine Das GrabProKĂśnig Phillip ist Namen suchundineiner Flandern, vermittelt ler Kriege. Sie erinnert an das Blut der gramm zum Gedenkjahr. BrĂźgge ist im Ăśf- Kennmarke von der Gedenkliste vereine weniger der bedeutendsten Fahrt von der pulkleinen Eindruck.

Soldaten, die in Autostunde der BlĂźte ihres Lebens fentlichen Bewusstsein als knĂźpft wird. So Entbekommteinen jedes Opfer eidahingerafft wurden.

Aber sie Metropole ist gleich- Kriegsschauplatz hier hatten Paten. Idealerweise sind 000 ein anderer Ort ist deckungen desnenvergangenen Wie600 kaum sierende Thessalo- bekannt, zeitig eine fragile und anmutige Pflanze, die Deutschen ihren U-Boot-StĂźtzpunkt. kleine Skulpturen bis 2018 entstanden, fĂźr als diegroĂ&#x;es Ma-Landart-Projekt Ypern Symbol fĂźr die Schrecken nikiSchmerzen und doch eineDieReise weitStadtJahrhunderts deren Samen auch lindern historische diente ihnen als und die dann bei kedonier Heiligdes Krieges inalsodie Geschichte Griechenkann, eine Blume zwischen SchĂśn- RĂźckzugsort.

In den Stadthallenein wirdnationales Ypern fßr immer ausgestellt werden – ein und heute Symbol heit und Tod. lands. Bei Vergina, vom 14.

Oktober an das Leben unter der internationales Mahnmal. tum.

In jahrzehntelangen des Friedens.

Im April 1915, im HochDiese ambivalente Landschaft lässt sich deutschen Besatzung mit Fotos aus dieerInternet: das Land markierte der erste Gasangriff lebt die Kämpfen machte Im www.flandern.com/ von Ypern aus gutland mit demMakedoniens, Rad erkunden. ser Zeit dokumentiert.

Flandern/flanders-fields/ Speziell fĂźr die Gedenkjahre TouDas Flandernfestival unter in Griechenland.

Vormacht hier die neue Dimension des groĂ&#x;e wurden Vergangenheit unter zur BrĂźssel www.comingworldrememberme.be ren wie die „Friedensroute“ zu den histo- dem Motto „1000 Voices for Peace!“ hat

Auf Flanderns Feldern blĂźht der Mohn Erlebte Geschichte auf den Schlachtfeldern des Ersten Weltkrieges in Belgien

Friedenssymbol. Die gotischen Tuchhallen von Ypern wurden 1914 von deutschen Truppen zerstĂśrt. Heute beherbergt das Ensemble das „In Flanders Fields Museum“. Foto: visitflanders

ges gefolgt. Bis zum 30. Juni ist „Krieg und Trauma. Soldaten und Lazarette 1914–1918“ zu sehen. Nie zuvor waren in einem Krieg so viele Verwundete auf einmal zu versorgen gewesen, das Lazarettwesen entstand. In einer weiteren Ausstellung in Gent widmet man sich ausfĂźhrlich den psychischen Schäden der Kriegsteilnehmer, ein Thema, das bis heute traurige Aktualität behalten hat.

Das IFFM mÜchte aber auch einen Bezug zur Gegenwart herstellen. Wer immer einen AngehÜrigen während des Ersten Weltkriegs in Flandern verloren hat, kann ihn dem wissenschaftlichen Dienst des Museums melden. Ziel ist, die Namen aller ums Leben gekommenen Menschen aller Nationen zu erfassenund diesedann jeweils an genau dem Tag nach 100 Jahren im Museum zu projizieren.

Das Geheimnis im HĂźgel

der Erde wieder auf.

Sein Sohn schuf eine Welt- Mordens. Zuerst von den deutmacht und ging als Alexander schen Angreifern eingesetzt wurde das neue Kampfmittel bald auch von den britischen he fand, ist bis heute ein Rätsel Verteidigern verwendet.

GroĂ&#x;e in die Geschichte Brot undder Frieden ein.

Wo dieser seine letzte Ru-

Nach anfänglicher Euphorie bekommt auch Berlin die Kriegsfolgen zu spßren geblieben.

Fßr die Engländer ist Ypern An die Schrecken des Krieges erinnern die Ausstellungen in den Museen in Passendale und Ypern.

Flanders Fields.

Ort der Erinnerung.

Während des Ersten Weltkrieges widmeten viele Menschen ihr Leben der Hilfe anderer. Zu diesen zählte auch die FranzÜsin Irène Curie, die älteste Tochter der Nobelpreisträgerin Marie Curie. Genau wie ihre Mutter zeigte Irène ein starkes Interesse an Medizin und Radiologie. Trotz ihrer jungen Jahre unterstßtzte sie ihre Mutter während des Krieges dabei, ßber 180 Krankenpeger/innen zu schulen. Irène leitete sogar die RÜntgenstation eines Krankenhauses in Hoogstade in den Feldern Flanderns.

Um mehr Ăźber die Geschichte von Irène Curie zu erfahren, besuchen Sie andersďŹ elds1418.com.

Flanders Fields hat unzählige Dinge zu erzählen.

Kommen Sie und entdecken Sie sie selbst.

Mehr als 2000Trauer Jahreumschlumsoetwas wie ein Stalingrad. Jahre Als sich im August 1914 das „Piccadilly ihn – lieĂ&#x; viele Frauen phyCafĂŠâ€œ in „Kaffeehaus Vaterland“ umbesischungestĂśrt und psychischin an ihre Grenzen sto- sie sich in der vĂśllig merte auch Phillip lang hielten nannte, traf der Besitzer ĂśffentlichkeitsĂ&#x;en. Zugleich waren die Daheimgebliebeseinem Totentempel der SammeltätigkeizerstĂśrten Stadt verschanzt. Vor wirksam den Nerv einer in nationaler Ernen zu unter umfangreichen Erde. Nur ein recht unscheinden Toren regung befindlichen Gesellschaft. Ob aus ten aufgerufen.

Gesammelt wurde alles,tobte ein unerbitterliĂœberzeugung oder aus Angst der Inhaber wassich weiterverwertbar barer HĂźgel hebt von der war: cherAltpapier, Stellungskrieg, dessen Spuvor Ausgrenzung und Umsatzverlust: UnLumpen, Gummi, Metall. Auch langes Umgebung ab. Frauenhaar Das istwarwohl renihmnoch gezählte Firmen und Geschäfte änderten begehrt: Aus wurdenheute in der Landim Zuge des patriotischen Ăœberschwangs undGeDichtungen hergestellt, auch der Grund,Treibriemen dass sein schaft zu finden sind. Immer nach Ausbruch des Ersten Weltkrieges ihda wegen der britischen Seeblockade Kaheimnis solange unentdeckt wieder werden Knochen der ren Namen: Der fremde Zungenschlag allmelhaar nicht mehr erhältlich war. blieb. Es war ein Zusammen GlĂźcksfall täglicher Begriffe konnte schnell antinamitfĂźr den immer hĂśheren tional aufgefasst werden. an der Front und in die WissenschaftMenschenverlusten und der Fund Die Ăźber alle MaĂ&#x;e der Vernunft hider Heimat fĂźhrten diese härter werdendes Lebens fĂźr einen Archäolonausgehende Siegesgewissheit 1914 den Bedingungen zu einer tiefen Kriegsstand in scharfem Kontrast zur StimmĂźdigkeit.

Wer sah, wie finanziell Bessergen, als 1977 zum Vorschein mung zwei Jahre später, nachdem ein gestellte ihren Bedarf ßber den Schwarzkam, was darunter steckt.

Plakat fĂźr die FrauenhaarsammGroĂ&#x;teil der Berliner BevĂślkerung die markt uneingeschränkt decken konnten, groĂ&#x;en GrabhĂźgel DHM lung (J. Wiertz, 1918).ImFoto: Auswirkungen des Krieges am eigenen der gelangte befinbald zu der Ăœberzeugung, Leib zu spĂźren bekommen hatte. Aufdass fĂźr dieGräber. gesamte BevĂślkerung genĂźden sich insgesamt vier grund der unzureichenden Versorgungsgend Nahrungsmittel und Kohle vorhanDas Phillips ist das prächtigste. lage waren die Menschen immer zeitin- SteckrĂźben ersetzt werden mussten, lag den wären – wenn sie nur gerechter verEin weiteresei-sollteilt das Grab von tensiver damit beschäftigt, sich notwen- der tägliche Durchschnittsverbrauch wĂźrden.

Dies fĂźhrte bei hunderttaudige Lebensmittel und Brennstoffe zu be- nes Erwachsenen meist unter 1000 KalosendenAlexanders Berlinern zu Frustration und soAlexander IV, Sohn schaffen. Der Arzt Alfred Grotejahn no- rien. Lebensmitteldiebstahl und andere zialem Hass, vor allem aber zu einem des GroĂ&#x;en VieleGlaubwĂźrdigkeitsverlust Beigatierte am 17. März 1916 Ăźber die Folge Eigentumsdelikte nahmen während dessein. enormen des der zunehmenden Unterernährung in Krieges sprunghaft zu.

Staates. ben sind gut erhalten und in sein Tagebuch: „Die Berliner BevĂślkeAuch die Prostitution erreichte ein bis Anfang 1918 kam es zu einem politider Ausstellung, zu sehen, die rung bekommt von Woche zu Woche dahin unbekanntes AusmaĂ&#x;. Um das ei- schen Massenstreik, dem sich in Berlin historischen Komplex wie mehr ein mongolisches Aussehen. Die Ba- gene Sattwerden oderden das ihrer Kinder zu rund 400 000 Menschen anschlossen. ckenknochen treten hervor, und die ent- ermĂśglichen, sahen eine sich immer mehr Ihre Hauptforderung: „Frieden und Totenhalle umgibt. fettete Haut legt sich in Falten.“ Frauen gezwungen, ihren KĂśrper zu ver- Brot!“ Viele andere aber verbanden mit Im Winter 1916/17, als aufgrund kaufen. Die Mehrfachbelastung von Le- den allgegenwärtigen Porträts von Kaiser schlechter ErnteIm selbst Kartoffeln als bensmittelbesorgung, Kindererziehung Wilhelm II. und Paul von Auf Hindenburg dem bis deutschen Friedhof in Innern warten unsagbare www.discovergreece.com.

Grundnahrungsmittel zur Versorgung und Arbeit, die Sorge um das Wohlerge- Herbst 1918 auch weiterhin die feste Erkannte Soldaten begraben. archäologische Schätze. der BevÜlkerung ausfielen und durch hen des Partners an der Front – oder die wartung auf den Sieg.

Arnulf Scriba

wie damals in ein rotes Meer verwandeln, sind Sinnbild fßr Blut und Vergänglichkeit und symbolisieren die Auseineindersetzung mit dem Thema Krieg.

Der wird hier nicht als etwas „heldenhaftes“ empfunden. So

wirken die FriedhĂśfe der verschiedenen Nationen als Mahnmale fĂźr den Frieden.

Der bekannste deutsche Soldatenfriedhof in Langemark ist letzte Ruhestätte fĂźr fast 25.000 Gefallene. GrĂśĂ&#x;er sind die alliierten FriedhĂśfe, nicht weil es sich um die Sieger handelt, sondern, weil sie nicht wie die Deutschen die meisten Toten in die Heimat ĂźberfĂźhrt haben.

Auf der „Flandern Fields Route“ kann der Besucher die Erinnerungsstätten der verschiedenen Nationen erkunden. Die Menschen Flanderns haben ihren Frieden mit dem Krieg gemacht.

i Langemark sind tausende unbe- Mit Mohnblumen ehren die Fotos: Christian Wohlt Engländer ihre Gefallenen.

Tourismus Flandern, Cäcilienstrasse 46, 50667 KÜln Tel. 0221-277590, www.flandern.com

Das Pferd als Botschafter urie sĂŠe C

(coll.

ACJC

Wie SchĂźlern der Erste Weltkrieg nahegebracht werden kann

Š Mu

Verantw. Herausgeber: Visit Flanders, Peter De Wilde, Grasmarkt 61, 1000 Brussel

i

hunderttausenden hier verreckten Soldaten und Munitionsreste gefunden.

Dieser Eindruck hat die Ansichten der Menschen geprägt.

Mohnblumen (engl. Poppies), die die Felder Flanderns heute

FLANDERSFIELDS1418.COM

Geschichte? Langweilig. Politik? Gähn.

Lange Gesichter sieht die Theaterpädagogin Viktor Krowas selten, wenn sie nach einer Unterrichtseinheit zum Ersten Weltkrieg eine Schulklasse verlässt.

Im Gegenteil: „Oft haben die SchĂźler hinterher das BedĂźrfnis, zu sagen, wie toll das war und was sie alles verstanden haben.“ Am Stage Theater des Westens bildet Viktor Krowas Kinderdarsteller aus; gerade wird dort das StĂźck „Gefährten“ aufgefĂźhrt, das zur Zeit des Ersten Weltkrieges spielt: Darin geht es um den englischen Jungen Albert und sein Pferd Joey, das zu Beginn des Krieges an die Front muss. Albert, eigentlich zu jung fĂźr den Kriegsdienst, folgt seinem treuen Gefährten bis in die SchĂźtzengräben Nordfrankreichs. Schulklassen, die das StĂźck besuchen mĂśchten, bietet Stage Entertainment begleitende Theaterworkshops an.

Das sei sinnvoll, sagt Krowas, um den SchĂźlern Hintergrundwissen Ăźber den

Krieg zu vermitteln. Begriffen wie „Heimatfront“, „SchĂźtzengraben“ oder „veränderte Waffentechnologie und daraus resultierende Grausamkeiten“ nähert sich die Pädagogin zusammen mit den Jugendlichen auf spielerische Art und Weise, indem sie Ăźber Bilder und Requisiten sprechen, die später im Theater zu sehen sind oder gemeinsam Szenen nachspielen, die auch im StĂźck vorkommen. „Die SchĂźler fĂźhlen sich dadurch kompetent, weil sie etwas wiedererkennen und verstehen, worum es geht“, so Kowas. (www.gefährtenberlin.de) In eine ähnliche Richtung geht die Wissensvermittlung bei der Sonderausstellung Ăźber den Ersten Weltkrieg, die ab morgen im Deutschen Historischen Museum in Berlin zu sehen ist. Jugendliche zwischen zwĂślf und 14 Jahren kĂśnnen sich mit einem Multimediaguide durch die Ausstellung fĂźhren lassen. DarĂźber bekommen sie weitere Informationen zu den einzelnen Objekten und kĂśnnen bei

 � � � �   ­ ­ € ‚ ƒ„ � … … ­ ­ ­ †

einem Quiz mitmachen. „Was wir uns wĂźnschen, ist, dass Jugendliche genauso wie Erwachsene durch die Ausstellung gehen und fĂźr sich etwas Neues entdecken, das sie vorher nicht wussten“, sagt Brigitte Vogel aus dem Fachbereich Bildung und Vermittlung des Museums. Zum Beispiel die Anekdote zum Frauenhaar: Weil das in der Kriegsindustrie fĂźr Treibriemen und Dichtungen verwendete Kamelhaar nicht mehr zu beschaffen war, wurden die Frauen aufgerufen, ihr ausgebĂźrstetes Haar zu spenden (s. Artikel oben).

Es abschneiden und sich damit verunstalten sollten sie jedoch nicht.

Zusätzlich finden Jugendliche in der Ausstellung immer wieder den Bezug zur heutigen Zeit: Wie ist das jetzt mit den Grenzen Europas? Gibt es noch Monarchien? Wo und wie wird Giftgas heutzutage eingesetzt? Das Interesse ist so groĂ&#x;, dass „wir uns vor Schulklassen nicht retten kĂśnnen“, so Vogel. Und Langeweile?

Keine Spur.

Alena Hecker

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WE NODIGEN UIT In Frankrijk zetten we een samenwerking op met het blad ‘Le Point’. Het jaarlijkse congres van de RDA (Duitse federatie van autobusreizen) doet Ieper aan. In Canada sluiten we een overeenkomst met het Canadian War Museum voor hun grote tentoonstelling ‘Gas, Mud & Memory’. Voor Australië en Nieuw-Zeeland, waar we nog niet actief waren, stellen we een vertegenwoordigingskantoor aan om de pers en reisindustrie warm te maken voor ‘Flanders Fields’.

Op het tweejaarlijkse ‘Flanders Brussels Travel Forum’ staat ‘100 Jaar Groote Oorlog’ centraal.

REACHING OUT In France, we set up a collaboration with the newspaper ‘Le Point’. The annual conference of the RDA (German Federation of Bus and Coach Travel) is held in Ypres. In Canada, we conclude an agreement with the Canadian War Museum for their vast exhibition ‘Gas, Mud & Memory’. For Australia and New Zealand, where we do not yet have an active presence, we propose setting up a representative’s office in order to generate interest among the press and the travel industry for ‘Flanders Fields’.

The Great War Centenary is the central focus at the biannual ‘Flanders Brussels Travel Forum’.

34

/ Mijnkrater Hollandse Schuur, Wijtschate, Heuvelland / Mine crater Dutch Barn, Wijtschate, Heuvelland

/ persreis met Bundeskunsthalle, Duitsland / press trip with Bundeskunsthalle, Germany

/ Persreis uit UK en Ierland / Press trip from UK and Ireland

/ RDA-conferentie Duitsland te gast in Ieper / RDA conference Germany hosted by Ypres

/ Start van het AustraliĂŤ-team van Toerisme Vlaanderen / Kick-off for the VISITFLANDERS Australia team

/ Museum aan de IJzer, Diksmuide / Museum at the Yser, Diksmuide

/ Vrij Vaderland, Veurne / Free Fatherland, Veurne

/ Museum aan de IJzer, Diksmuide / Museum at the Yser, Diksmuide

GROTE EN KLEINE WERKEN

/ Käthe Kollwitz museum, Koekelare

Het Museum aan de IJzer gaat open voor het publiek.

Er worden trouwens overal in Vlaanderen lintjes doorgeknipt, want tal van grotere en kleinere investeringsprojecten zijn tot een goed einde gebracht.

GREATER AND SMALLER PROJECTS The Museum at the Yser (Yser Tower) opens its doors to the public. In fact, ribbons are cut all over Flanders as numerous larger and smaller investment projects are successfully completed.

/ Lange Max museum, Koekelare / Long Max museum, Koekelare

/ Vrij Vaderland, Veurne / Free Fatherland, Veurne

37

4 AUGUSTUS Precies 100 jaar na het uitbreken van de Eerste Wereldoorlog verspreidt Toerisme Vlaanderen 115.000 exemplaren van een unieke herdenkingskrant ‘The Flanders Fields Post’, in Manchester, Dublin, Toronto, Glasgow, Londen, Halifax en Brussel. Ook in de nieuwsbulletins van die dag duikt de actie op.

4 AUGUST Exactly 100 years after the First World War broke out, VISITFLANDERS distributes 115,000 copies of a unique commemorative newspaper ‘The Flanders Fields Post’, in Manchester, Dublin, Toronto, Glasgow, London, Halifax and Brussels. The activities are also covered by the news bulletins of the day.

38

/ In Manchester, UK

/ In Dublin, Ierland / In Dublin, Ireland

/ In Manchester, UK

/ In Halifax, Canada

39

WELKOM… Op Brussels Airport is de herdenking nadrukkelijk aanwezig met klaprozen en beelden uit WO I. Ook de NMBS-stations in de Westhoek krijgen een thematisch accent. Voor wie meer wil weten zal er elk jaar van de herdenking een overzichtelijke mini-gids gemaakt worden, in vier talen.

WELCOME… At Brussels Airport, the commemoration is clearly visible with poppies and images from WW1. The SNCB train stations in the Westhoek are also themed accordingly. For anyone wishing to find out more, a comprehensive mini-guide – available in four languages – will also be created for each year of the commemoration.

40

41

/ LichtFront op Tyne Cot Cemetery, Zonnebeke / LightFront at Tyne Cot Cemetery, Zonnebeke

42

LICHTFRONT

LIGHTFRONT

Oktober. 8400 fakkeldragers verlichten de 84 kilometer lange frontlijn van Ploegsteert tot Nieuwpoort: een onvergetelijk moment. Toerisme Vlaanderen draagt een financieel steentje bij tot de organisatie van dit LichtFront, en haalt 30 buitenlandse journalisten en bloggers naar de Westhoek. Het nieuwe bezoekerscentrum ‘WestFront’ in Nieuwpoort is ondertussen open. Ook de workshops ‘Coming World x Remember Me’ gaan van start. De ambitie is om één beeldje te maken voor elk van de 600.000 mensen die in België het leven lieten door WO I.

It is October. 8400 torch-bearers light up the 84 kilometre front-line from Ploegsteert to Nieuwpoort: an unforgettable moment. VISITFLANDERS provides financial support for the organisation of this LightFront and brings around 30 foreign journalists and bloggers to Westhoek. The new ‘WestFront’ visitor centre in Nieuwpoort is now open. The ‘Coming World x Remember Me’ workshops also begin. The aim is to create one sculpture for each of the 600,000 people who lost their lives in Belgium during WW1.

/ LichtFront nabij Westfront, Nieuwpoort / LightFront at Westfront, Nieuwpoort

/ LichtFront / LightFront

/ CWxRM

/ CWxRM

43

VLAANDEREN HERDENKT Elke stad, elk dorp heeft een verhaal over de gebeurtenissen in 1914. Ze vertellen daarover in speciale herdenkingsmomenten, tentoonstellingen, muziek en andere evenementen. Vele van deze onvergetelijke programma’s worden met de financiÍle steun van Toerisme Vlaanderen gerealiseerd.

FLANDERS REMEMBERS Every city and every village has a tale to tell about the events of 1914. They recount their stories during special commemorative moments, exhibitions, musical performances and other events. Many of these unforgettable programmes are made possible thanks to the financial support of VISITFLANDERS.

44

/ Pontonbrug, Antwerpen / Pontoon bridge, Antwerp

/ Legermuseum, Brussel / Military museum, Brussels

/ Ravage, Leuven

/ Dendermonde

/ Shooting Range, FoMu, Antwerpen / Shooting Range, FoMu, Antwerp

/ 1.000 Voices for Peace

/ Aarschot

45

46

EEN BOODSCHAP VAN VREDE

A MESSAGE OF PEACE

De Kerstbestanden in 1914 deden de wapens even zwijgen. Toerisme Vlaanderen vraagt aan bekende straatartiesten uit het Verenigd Koninkrijk en Duitsland om samen een werk te maken met de Kerstbestanden als thema. Het wordt een graffiti schildering in hartje Londen, en een kunstwerk op canvas in Berlijn.

The Christmas truce silenced the guns in 1914. VISITFLANDERS asks well-known street artists from the United Kingdom and Germany to collaborate on a thematic work based on the Christmas truce. A graffiti painting is created in the heart of London and an artwork painted on canvas in Berlin.

De facebookpagina Flandersfields1418 blijkt meer dan levensvatbaar. We tellen 51.646 fans per 31 december 2014. En vooral erg veel interactie.

The Flandersfields1418 Facebook page is proving to be more than viable. We have 51,646 fans as of 31 December 2014. And a great deal of interaction takes place.

47

48

2015 DE HERDENKING GAAT VERDER REMEMBRANCE CONTINUES 49

2015

De belangstelling voor ‘De Groote Oorlog’ blijft ook na 2014 sterk. Australië en Nieuw-Zeeland, de ANZACs, sluiten aan bij de herdenking zoals ze in 1915 ook aansloten bij het krijgsgewoel. Nieuwe, vaak kleinschalige investeringen in de frontstreek zorgen dat bezoekers nog meer inzichten en verhalen aangereikt krijgen.

Ondertussen, ongestoord, treden de klaroenblazers onder de Menenpoort elke avond aan voor hun Last Post Ceremonie… op 9 juli 2015 voor de 30.000ste keer, en met het voornemen dat het nooit de laatste ‘Last Post’ zal zijn.

The interest in The Great War remains strong after 2014. Australia and New Zealand – the ANZACs – join in with the commemoration just as they joined the turmoil of battle in 1915. New, often small-scale investments in the Western Front area provide visitors with even more insights and stories. In the meantime, without any interruptions, the Last Post rings out under the Menin Gate every evening, and for the 30,000th time on 9 July 2015, with the intention that it will never truly be the last Last Post.

50

51 51

TER ERE VAN DOKTER JOHN

IN HONOUR OF DR. JOHN

Dat de frontregio gekend staat als ‘Flanders Fields’, dat de klaproos het symbool is voor de Eerste Wereldoorlog: we hebben het te danken aan de Canadese dokter John McCrae. In mei 1915 schreef hij een schrijnend gedicht bij de dood van een vriend. De oorlogsgruwel duurde onveranderd verder – met gas 52een verschrikkelijk nieuw wapen. als

The fact that the front is known as Flanders Fields and the poppy is the symbol of the First World War is down to the Canadian doctor John McCrae. In May 1915, he wrote a harrowing poem to mark the death of a friend. The horror of war continued on unabated, with gas as a horrific new weapon.

100 JAAR ANZAC DAY ‘Merci Australia’ – de slogan is van Atout France maar Toerisme Vlaanderen sluit er zich graag bij aan. Naar aanleiding van de 100ste ANZAC Day werkt Toerisme Vlaanderen mee aan de gelijknamige brochure van de Franse NTO. Ze zit als bijlage bij twee Australische kranten, samen goed voor 37.000 exemplaren. Via het Qantas netwerk komen daar nog eens 10 miljoen digitale exemplaren bij.

100 YEARS ANZAC DAY ‘Merci Australia’ – the slogan by Atout France is also picked up by VISITFLANDERS. On the occasion of the 100th ANZAC Day, VISITFLANDERS collaborates with the French NTO to make a brochure of the same name. The brochure is handed out as a supplement with two Australian newspapers, accounting for 37,000 copies in total. The Qantas network distributes another 10 million digital copies.

/ ANZAC Day Ceremonie op Polygon Wood / ANZAC Day Ceremony at Polygon Wood / ANZAC Day Ceremonie op Polygon Wood / ANZAC Day Ceremony at Polygon Wood

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VER WEG THUISKOMEN In december bestaat Talbot House in Poperinge 100 jaar. Hier konden de Britse frontsoldaten even verpozen en ‘thuiskomen’. Ook vandaag blijft een bezoek aan Talbot House een verademing. De campagne brengt dit thuisgevoel over: voorbijgangers in Londen en Manchester krijgen, net als de soldaten 100 jaar terug, thee aangeboden in unieke Talbot House bekers.

Tijdens een workshop in Fort Napoleon, Oostende, krijgt een groep van 40 reisorganisatoren uit UK en Ierland een stevige briefing over onder meer de komende herdenkingsjaren.

A HOME FROM HOME In December, Talbot House in Poperinge celebrates its 100th birthday. This location offered British soldiers on the front line an opportunity to rest and recuperate and feel ‘at home’. Even today, a visit to Talbot House is a chance to ‘get your breath back’.

The campaign exudes this homely feeling; passers-by in London and Manchester are offered a cup of tea in unique Talbot House cups , just like the soldiers 100 years ago..

During a workshop in Fort Napoleon, Ostend, a group of 40 travel organisers from the UK and Ireland are provided with a comprehensive briefing about topics, including the forthcoming commemoration years.

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DE BOODSCHAP VERSPREIDEN Het internationale publiek blijven inspireren en helpen om de weg naar Flanders Fields te vinden: daarom zetten we een stevig gedocumenteerde website op, begeven we ons op Twitter, starten we nieuwsbrieven, werken we aan een educatieve brochure voor Britse scholen, brengen we een brochure uit voor mensen met een visuele beperking. Op Facebook blijft Flanders Fields gestaag groeien: we eindigen het jaar met 74.913 fans en veel interactie.

SPREADING THE WORD Our aim is to continue to inspire and help our international audience find their way to Flanders Fields.

That is why we are creating a well-documented website, starting to use Twitter, writing newsletters, working on an educational brochure for British schools and publishing a brochure for people with a visual impairment. Flanders Fields is steadily gaining popularity on Facebook; we end the year with 74,913 fans and a great deal of interaction.

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2016 ONDER VUUR LIVING UNDER FIRE

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/ Frans Monument, Kemmel / French Monument, Kemmel

/ Duitse begraafplaats Vladslo, Diksmuide / German military cemetery Vladslo, Diksmuide

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/ Pool of Peace, Heuvelland

2016

Het zou een rustig jaar worden, want Frankrijk staat hoog op de herdenkingsagenda met 100 jaar ‘Verdun’ en ‘de Somme’. Dan slaat terreur toe, eerst in Parijs en op 22 maart ook in Brussel. Even liggen we zelf onder vuur. Even liggen we zelf onder vuur en hapert het vertrouwen van de internationale bezoekers in de veiligheid van onze bestemming. Al met al gaat de herdenking in Vlaanderen echter verder. Vreemd genoeg is het dagelijks leven tijdens WO I het thema van vele initiatieven dit jaar.

It should be a quiet year because France is high on the commemorative agenda with 100 years since Verdun and the Somme. But then the terror attacks begin, first in Paris and then also in Brussels on 22 March. We ourselves are now under fire. And potential international visitors begin to doubt the security of our destination. The commemoration in Flanders, however, moves forward. Strangely enough, daily life during WW1 is the theme of many of the initiatives this year.

/ Hill 60, Zillebeke

/ Duitse begraafplaats Langemark / German military cemetery Langemark

/ Memorial Museum Passchendaele 1917, Zonnebeke

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100 JAAR WIPERS TIMES

100 YEARS WIPERS TIMES

Met de medewerking van Ian Hislop, boegbeeld van de Britse satire, maken we een reeks video’s over het satirische soldatenkrantje bij uitstek: The Wipers Times, in 2016 honderd jaar oud. Nick Roberts, kleinzoon van de oorspronkelijke redactiechef, ontpopt zich als een ware ambassadeur voor de herdenking in de Westhoek. De vijf filmpjes worden met een persconferentie gelanceerd, en via sociale media verspreid. We genereren meer dan 860.000 video views, waarvan meer dan 10% de video’s volledig bekijkt.

With the cooperation of Ian Hislop, a figurehead of British satire, we create a series of videos about the satirical soldiers’ newspaper: The Wipers Times, which celebrates its 100th birthday in 2016. Nick Roberts, grandson of the original editor, emerges as a genuine ambassador for the commemoration in the Westhoek. The five films are launched with a press conference and are distributed via social media. We generate more than 860,000 video views, of which more than 10% watches the entire video.

SHOT AT DAWN

SHOT AT DAWN

Meer dan eens werden soldaten die weigerden te vechten veroordeeld tot de dood met de kogel. Poperinge wijdt een kleine maar harde tentoonstelling aan deze executies, en plaatst zo deze doden bij de slachtoffers die we herdenken.

More than once, soldiers who refused to fight were sentenced to death by firing squad. Poperinge dedicates a small but hard-hitting exhibition to these executions and thus adds these deaths to those victims we are remembering.

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STERKE VROUWEN WOI was geen exclusieve mannenzaak. Dat maakt de tentoonstellingen-reeks ‘De ZIJ-kant van de oorlog’ duidelijk. Verpleegsters Elsie en Mairi; wetenschapster Marie Curie, kunstenares Käthe Kollwitz maar ook volkse vrouwen zoals Madame Tack komen aan bod.

Vrouwen die vandaag vechten voor vrede treden op als ‘meters’ van het project.

DE STEM VAN KINDEREN Kun je oorlog uitleggen aan kinderen? Misschien door kinderen aan het woord te laten die het zelf hebben meegemaakt, honderd jaar geleden... ‘Oorlog in Korte Broek’ brengt dergelijke verhalen samen. We verspreiden ze ook via sociale media.

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/ Madame Tack

/ Lieve Blancquaert & Jennie Vanlerberghe

STRONG WOMEN WW1 was not exclusively for men. This is made very clear by a series of exhibitions called ‘Her Side Of The War’ (De ZIJ-kant van de oorlog). Nurses Elsie and Mairi, scientist Marie Curie, artist Käthe Kollwitz and also the ‘Mother of the Trenches’, Madame Tack, are part of this series. The women who fight for peace today function as ‘mentors’ of this project.

THE VOICE OF CHILDREN Can you explain war to children? Perhaps by letting the children who experienced it 100 years ago have their say... ‘War in Short Pants’ (Oorlog in Korte Broek) brings together these types of stories, which we also disseminate via social media.

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EEN AANLOOP NAAR 2017

RUN-UP TO 2017

Veel communicatie-initiatieven nemen al een aanloop naar 2017, het jaar dat ‘Passchendaele’ wordt herdacht. Het ‘Flanders Brussels Travel Forum’ toont het beste van Vlaanderen – waaronder ‘Flanders Fields’ - aan 415 inkopers uit 30 landen. We verspreiden een programmaboekje op de belangrijkste Franse herdenkingssites en op distributiepunten van P&O ferries.

Vanuit de UK verzamelen we 40 verkopers van educatieve reizen voor een ‘hostel experience’ en vanuit Ierland zakt ook GTI met pers en trade af naar Flanders Fields. De rechtstreekse vlucht Brussel-Toronto is een goede gelegenheid om ook daar ‘Passchendaele’ in de verf te zetten. Brendan Nelson, directeur van het Australian War Memorial, doet een oproep aan zijn landgenoten om ‘Flanders Fields’ te bezoeken. Ook de tentoonstelling ‘The Belgians have not forgotten’ die rondreist in Australië en Nieuw-Zeeland steunen we.

Einde 2016 staat het aantal volgers van onze Facebook-pagina op 108.906.

Many communication initiatives are already underway in the run-up to 2017, the year in which we commemorate ‘Passchendaele’. The ‘Flanders Brussels Travel Forum’ shows off the best of Flanders, including Flanders Fields, to 415 buyers from 30 countries. We distribute a programme leaflet at the most important French commemorative sites and at distribution points on P&O ferries. From the UK, we gather together 40 people involved in selling educational trips for a hostel experience and we also invite GTI with Irish press and trade.

The direct flight from Brussels to Toronto is also a great opportunity to bring Passchendaele to everyone’s attention. Brendan Nelson, director of the Australian War Memorial, puts out a call to his fellow countrymen to visit Flanders Fields. We also support the exhibition ‘The Belgians have not forgotten’, which tours Australia and New Zealand.

At the end of 2016, the number of followers on our Facebook page stands at 108,906.

/ Vlucht Brussel - Toronto / Flight Brussels - Toronto

/ Hostelexperience

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/ Brendan Nelson, directeur Australian War Memorial / Brendan Nelson, director Australian War Memorial

/ Brendan Nelson, directeur Australian War Memorial / Brendan Nelson, director Australian War Memorial

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2017 PASSCHENDAELE PASSCHENDAELE

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2017 De Derde Slag bij Ieper, beter bekend als de Slag bij Passchendaele, staat geboekstaafd als een hel: gruwelijk leed, ontelbare slachtoffers, quasi geen terreinwinst. Vele landen plannen een officiële ceremonie ter herdenking. Het verhaal van Passchendaele wordt echter ook verteld door het landschap van ‘Flanders Fields’, de begraafplaatsen, de namen onder de Menenpoort, het museum in Zonnebeke. Met gerichte campagnes en culturele projecten zoals het KraterFront, het tentoonstellingencircuit ‘1917, Totale oorlog in Vlaanderen’ of het ingetogen ‘Silent City meets Living City’ dragen we de herinnering verder uit.

The Third Battle of Ypres, better known as the Battle of Passchendaele, is known to have been hell-on-earth, with horrific suffering, innumerable victims and very little territory won. Many countries are planning an official commemorative ceremony. The story of Passchendaele, however, is also told through the landscape of Flanders Fields, the cemeteries, the names listed under the Menin Gate and the museum at Zonnebeke. With targeted campaigns and cultural projects – including KraterFront, the exhibition circuit ‘1917, Total War in Flanders’, and the fragile ‘Silent City meets Living City’ – we gradually expand the commemoration.

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/ Silent City meets Living City, Zonnebeke

/ Tyne Cot Cemetery, Zonnebeke

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/ Totale Oorlog, In Flanders Fields Museum, Ieper / Total War, In Flanders Fields Museum, Ypres

GETUIGENISSEN ‘1917, Totale Oorlog in Vlaanderen’ bestaat uit 11 grotere en kleinere tentoonstellingen die elk een aspect van ‘Passchendaele’ uitdiepen, en die verspreid zijn over de regio. Verhalen van soldaten die de slag hebben meegemaakt vormen de rode draad voor routes en in de communicatie. De digitale ‘early bookers’ campagne van Toerisme Vlaanderen zet deze verhalen ook in en loopt in de periode dat het publiek in de verschillende landen vakantieplannen maakt. We bereiken met de filmpjes maar liefst 4,4 miljoen mensen, halen ruim 720.000 videoviews op Facebook, 53.600 reacties en 56.000 clicks.

TESTIMONIALS ‘1917, Total War in Flanders’ comprises 11 larger and smaller exhibitions that each examine an aspect of Passchendaele and which are spread out across the region. Stories by soldiers who took part in the battle form the underlying basis of the routes and the communication. These stories are used by VISITFLANDERS in its digital ‘early bookers’ campaign which runs throughout the period when the audience in the various countries are making holiday plans. The films reach a total of 4,4 million people, get more than 720,000 video views on Facebook, 53,600 reactions and 56 000 clicks.

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MODDERSOLDAAT

MUD SOLDIER

Op 31 juli 2017 vindt de officiële Britse herdenking plaats van de Slag bij Passchendaele. Een week voordien verschijnt op Trafalgar Square, hartje Londen de ‘Mud Soldier’. Deze sculptuur van een Britse soldaat vergaat tot modder onder gestaag druppelend water en symboliseert zo de gruwel van Passchendaele. Voorbijgangers en Britse media sluiten de Mud Soldier in hun hart, op sociale media reageren mensen ontroerd, geboeid en erg positief. De actie gaat viraal en haalt maar liefst 3,9 miljoen videoviews op Facebook en ruim 48.000 link clicks en krijgt zelfs een eigen pagina op Wikipedia. Deze sterke samenwerking tussen reclamebureau, Toerisme Vlaanderen Brussel en Londen, de Londense Westminster Council en DCMS (Department of Culture, Media and Sports van de UK) zal een jaar later een regen van marketingprijzen winnen, waaronder zes ‘Creative Club of Belgium Awards’ en 4 Effies.

On 31 July 2017, the official British commemoration of the Battle of Passchendaele takes place. One week beforehand, in the heart of London, the Mud Soldier appears in Trafalgar Square. This sculpture of a British soldier is made of mud; it disintegrates under dripping water and symbolises the horror of Passchendaele.

Passers-by and the British media take the Mud Soldier to their hearts and those who respond on social media are moved, captivated and extremely positive. The campaign goes viral and reaches no less than 3,9 million video views on Facebook and more than 48,000 link clicks. The statue even gets its own Wikipedia page. This collaboration between the campaign agency, VISITFLANDERS Brussels and London, London’s Westminster Council and the DCMS (Department of Culture, Media and Sports in the UK) is showered with a range of marketing awards a year later, including six ‘Creative Club of Belgium Awards’ and 4 Effies.

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STREET ART Op 6 september verschijnt in Hosier Lane in Melbourne, Australië, een opvallend graffiti kunstwerk. In opdracht van Toerisme Vlaanderen schilderde street artist Adrian Doyle en zijn team zijn visie op ‘Passchendaele’: de gruwel van het slagveld, en ook de wreedheid voor wie thuis achterbleef en zelfs geen graf kon bezoeken. De Australische media besteden ruim aandacht aan het initiatief, met een bereik van zo’n 13 miljoen. De actie ontvangt in 2018 een ‘Mumbrella Award for Bravery’.

‘Coming World x Remember Me’ gaat op reis naar Halifax en Toronto in Canada. Gelijktijdig verspreidt Toerisme Vlaanderen op sociale media een filmpje waarin de Canadese acteur R.H. Thomson zijn medewerking verleent.

STREET ART On 6 September, an eye-catching graffiti artwork appears in Hosier Lane in Melbourne. On behalf of VISITFLANDERS, street artist Adrian Doyle and his team paints his vision of Passchendaele; the horror of the battlefield and also the brutality for those left at home who couldn’t even visit a grave. The Australian media give the initiative broad coverage, reaching 13 million people. The event receives a ‘Mumbrella Award for Bravery’ in 2018.

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‘Coming World x Remember Me’ goes on tour to Halifax and Toronto in Canada. Simultaneously, VISITFLANDERS distributes a film on social media to which the Canadian actor R.H. Thomson contributes.

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/ Guynemer Paviljoen, Langemark-Poelkapelle

/ Hippo.War, Waregem

NIEUWE VERHALEN Nieuwe plekken bieden vanaf 2017 nog meer inzicht in de complexiteit van de Groote Oorlog. In Kemmel opent het ruime bezoekerscentrum met o.m. aandacht voor de Mijnenslag. In Poperinge verschijnt een monument voor de Chinese arbeiders die ingeschakeld werden voor ondankbare en gevaarlijke klussen tijdens en na de oorlog. Poperinge wijdt er ook een gewaardeerde tentoonstelling aan.

De VRT-reeks ‘Onder Vlaamse Velden’ gaat over de archeologie van de WO I slagvelden in de Westhoek. Toerisme Vlaanderen maakt er een sterk verkorte compilatie van voor het buitenlands publiek op sociale media. We behalen meer dan 3,1 miljoen organische video views op Facebook.

Met een andere digitale actie richten we ons op alle mensen die op Facebook interesse vertonen voor de Eerste Wereldoorlog en aanverwante thema’s. We behaalden 795.000 video views en 6650 clicks.

Onze eigen facebookpagina sluit het jaar af met 148.370 fans.

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/ Chinese arbeiders in Poperinge / Chinese labourers in Poperinge

NEW STORIES From 2017 onwards, new locations offer further insights into the complexity of the Great War. In Kemmel, a spacious visitor centre that focuses on themes such as the Battle of Messines opens its doors. A monument to those Chinese labourers who were recruited for thankless and dangerous tasks during and after the war appears in Poperinge. Poperinge also devotes a highly-rated exhibition to this subject.

The VRT series ‘Onder Vlaamse Velden’ covers the archaeology of the WW1 battlefields in the Westhoek. VISITFLANDERS creates a much shorter compilation on social media for foreign audiences. We reach more than 3,1 million organic video views on Facebook.

With another digital promotion, we focus on all of the people on Facebook who show an interest in the First World War and related themes. We reached 795,000 video views and 6650 clicks. Our own Facebook page ends the year with 148,370 fans.

/ Under Flanders Fields

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20 Apr 2017 Travel Daily Section: General News • Article type : News Item • Audience : 0 • Page: 11 Printed Size: 379.00cm² • Market: National • Country: Australia • ASR: AUD 2,216 Words: 237 • Item ID: 761230939

Š Business Publishing Group Pty Ltd. All Rights reserved.

Page 1 of 1

MEDIA EN ROUTE

Het herdenkingsjaar van Passchendaele is een sterke hefboom om media uit het buitenland uit te nodigen voor een bezoek aan Vlaanderen. We ontvangen 100 journalisten.

VAN

DESIGN INNOVATION ON SHOW AT DENFA â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—? â—?

TRAGEDIE

Flanders, Belgium

TOT

Flanders Fields.

A Place to Remember.

TREKPLEISTER

FLANDERS Fields in south-west Belgium will always have a special Ä?ŽŜŜĞÄ?Ć&#x;ŽŜ Ç Ĺ?ƚŚ ĆľĆ?ĆšĆŒÄ‚ĹŻĹ?Ă͘ /Ĺś ĎŽĎŹĎ­Ďł &ĹŻÄ‚ĹśÄšÄžĆŒĆ? &Ĺ?ĞůĚĆ? Ç Ĺ?ĹŻĹŻ Ä?Ĺ˝ĹľĹľÄžĹľĹ˝ĆŒÄ‚ĆšÄž ƚŚĞ Ä?ÄžĹśĆšÄžĹśÄ‚ĆŒÇ‡ 12 Oct 2017 ĂŜŜĹ?Ç€ÄžĆŒĆ?Ä‚ĆŒÇ‡ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ Ä‚ĆŠĹŻÄž ŽĨ Hamilton Spectator, Hamilton VIC WÄ‚Ć?Ć?Ä?ĹšÄžĹśÄšÄ‚ÄžĹŻÄžÍ˜ WÄ‚Ć?Ć?Ä?ŚĞŜĚĂĞůĞ Ç Ä‚Ć?

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Sinds 1928 klinkt elke avond The Last Post in de Menenpoort van Ieper, ter nagedachtenis van de ruim 500.000 Britse soldaten die in de Vlaamse loopgraven het leven lieten tijdens de Eerste Wereldoorlog. Aan de vooravond van de Eeuwherdenking rijden we met een Range Rover Velar van slagveld naar slachtveld.

MEDIA

The suffering of Ypres (Wipers) on the Western Front one hundred years ago

Productie Damiaan Hage, Lucas Verbeke

ARTHUR HASKELL

The commemoration of Passchendaele is a great opportunity to invite foreign media to visit Flanders. We accommodate 100 journalists.

ONE hundred years ago, the Belgian town of Ypres suffered the ravages of war more than any other on the Western Front.

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26 Apr 2017 Canberra Times, Canberra

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Licensed by Copyright Agency. You may only copy or communicate this work with a licence.

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GTO â&#x20AC;˘ 3 â&#x20AC;˘ 2018

In 1915 lag er in centraal Europa een loopgravenlabyrint van maar liefst 40.000 kilometer Page 1 of 1

GESELENDE KASSEIEN En dan hebben we het alleen nog maar over de Vlaamse velden van destijds. Het worden er niet minder wanneer je de Franse grens oversteekt: richting Arras en de slagvelden van de Somme, langs de massagraven van Chemin des Dames en Verdun, of wanneer je tijdens een nietsvermoedend Elzastrip zomaar wordt geconfronteerd met alle gruwelijkheden in de Hoge Vogezen. Meteen begrijp je ook waar Tolkien zijn inspiratie voor â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The Lord of The Ringsâ&#x20AC;? vandaan haalde (als Brits officier nam John Ronald Reuel (J.R.R.) Tolkien deel aan de gevechten van de Somme). Eigenlijk is medio juni het verkeerde tijdstip om een Slagveldentoer rond Ieper te rijden. De eindeloze tristesse van deze streek komt pas echt tot zâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;n recht in de late herfst, wanneer de kleivelden er net zo desolaat en drassig bijliggen als de loopgraven van weleer. Maar zelfs op een perfect zonnige dag blijft de streek rond Ieper een landschap dat onder een sluier van onheilspellende tragiek gebukt gaat. We proberen de verpletterende somberheid enigszins van ons af te zetten door koers te zetten naar de gemeente Heuvelland en de fraaie landschappelijke uitstulpingen die vaak een beslissende rol spelen in de Vlaamse wielerklassiekers: Kemmelberg (156 meter), Zwarteberg (152 meter), Katsberg (150 meter), Vidaigneberg (136 meter), Scherpenberg (135 meter) en Rodeberg (129 meter). Stuk voor stuk stevige kuitenbijters en meteen ook een perfecte test om de terreinkwaliteiten van de Range Rover Velar proefondervindelijk te beoordelen. Want: Vlaamse kasseien zijn per definitie een grotere geseling voor het onderstel dan welke rit in het terrein ook. Voor de trip naar Ieper kozen we daarom min of meer bewust voor de Range Rover Velar P250 Dynamic S, een auto waarop piepklein nog de Land Rover-logoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s staan, maar die lichtjaren is verwijderd van waar het merk Land Rover ooit begon. De Velar oogt in alle opzichten strak en chic. Hij voelt aalglad doordat de handgrepen in de carrosserie verdwijnen zodra je begint te rijden. En bumper, koplampen, grille en motorkap lijken wel uit een stuk gesmeed, zo strak en glad zit het in elkaar. De Velar moet niets hebben van beschermranden, robuuste roosters of andere stoere poespas. De Velar mag gezien worden, hij wil mooi zijn. En binnenin is hij ook meer als limousine vormgegeven dan als terreinauto: een monochroom spiegelpaleis verpakt in minimalistische luxe.

Mooi dik leer op de stoelen en in plaats van fool-proof schakelaars en draaiknoppen twee hoge-resolutieschermen boven elkaar. Het mag duidelijk zijn, de Velar is uit ander hout gesneden. Onder de kap heeft hij een 2,0-liter viercilinder turbomotor, die je ook tegenkomt in andere

Menin Gateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stone lions return to Belgium after long journey from Canberra

stand guard again at the gate as part of World War I centenary commemorations.

The â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Menin Gate Lionsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;&#x2122; were unveiled in a special Last Post ceremony in Ypres on Monday

shelling. The broken and damaged lions were later recovered and in 1936 given by the Burgomaster of Ypres to Australia as a gesture of friendship and gratitude for the sacrifices made by Australia during the war. Since then they have stood guard at the entrance to the Australian War Memorial in Canberra.

Australian War Memorial director Brendan Nelson said the return of the lions strengthened the bond between Australia and Belgium forged by the sacrifice of those who passed through the Menin Gate on the way to the front. The lions will stand on the bridge in front of the Menin Gate and will be returned to Canberra after Armistice Day in November this year.

AAP

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modellen van Land Rover en Jaguar. Hij is goed voor 250 pk. De Velar 250 reageert vlot op het gaspedaal en alleen het geluid in de verte verraadt dat het een viercilinder is en geen zescilinder, zoals je misschien op basis van het uiterlijk zou verwachten. Hij heeft zâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;n koppel paraat over een heel breed gebied en daardoor hoeft de verder voortreffelijke automaat maar weinig aan het werk. Het is een en al rust in de auto, ook als je een hogere kruissnelheid vasthoudt en de â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;bergenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; die we vandaag tegenkomen, gaan er met boter en suiker in. Ook al is het hellingspercentage soms 20. Het is Land Rover gelukt een goede balans in het veercomfort aan te brengen. De nadruk ligt duidelijk op comfort, maar week of zompig is de auto niet. Zelfs niet op de meest veeleisende kasseienwegen in het achterland van Ieper. Soepel is een beter woord en de weg wordt mooi strakgetrokken. De bestuurder voelt dat de stuurbekrachtiging hard werkt, en alleen op het gebied van directheid zou de besturing beter kunnen. Je moet relatief veel draaien aan het stuur.

En ondanks dat de Velar vanbinnen en vanbuiten een mooie jongen is, is hij niet vies van een stukje onverhard. Je zult eerder tegen de beperkingen aanlopen van de banden dan van de auto. En het wordt de terreinrijder gemakkelijk gemaakt. Hij hoeft niet zelf uit te kienen wat de beste stand van de vering zou zijn, en welke versnelling zou moeten worden ingelegd. Druk op het knopje naast het juiste plaatje, en de Velar is klaar voor elke ondergrond. Het is tenslotte 2018, we moeten het elkaar niet te moeilijk maken.

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OORLOGSAMBULANCE Na vier jaar meedogenloos oorlogsgeweld verstomde eindelijk het gebulder van de kanonnen rond Ieper. Wat overbleef, was een zieltogende stad waar geen steen meer overeind stond, omgeven door een apocalyptisch kraterlandschap. Onmiddellijk na de Wapenstilstand konden de frontlinies ook daadwerkelijk bezocht worden en de toeristische industrie begon daarvoor al snel een uitgebreide infrastructuur te ontwikkelen. Nog voor het einde van de oorlog stelde Michelin al zâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;n eerste frontgidsen samen die waren gewijd aan de slagvelden, les champs de bataille. Dit boekwerk kwam enkele maanden na beĂŤindiging van de Eerste Wereldoorlog in een grote oplage op de markt.

Militaire fotografen waren al in 1917 begonnen om de gevolgen van de oorlog vast te leggen, want AndrĂŠ Michelin had goede contacten met het Franse leger. Anno 2018 zou dit overkomen als een aanzet tot ramptoerisme, maar de intentie lag toen anders. Door een bezoek droeg men

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Source: Sunday Mirror {Main} Edition: Country: UK Date: Sunday 24, December 2017 ALLIED48 troops after a gas attack. Photo: SUPPLIED. Page: Area: 269 sq. cm Circulation: ABC 542823 Weekly Ad data: page rate ÂŁ24,871.00, scc rate ÂŁ110.00 Phone: 020 7293 3000 Keyword:

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Visit Flanders

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AUSTRALIANS cross on Duckboards near Ypres.

Photo: SUPPLIED. ...expert advice & money-sa

In Flanders fields

WITH TRAVEL EDITOR NIGEL THOMPSO AND DEPUTY MARJORIE YUE

BY NIGEL THOMPSON

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1 In een grote boog rond Ieper liggen 178 militaire begraafplaatsen. 2 De Britten noemen het slagveld van Passendale â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Passion-daleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;: het land van het lijden. 3 Opgehitst door alle propaganda trokken de Britse soldaten opgewekt en strijdlustig naar het front. 4 Tyne Cot benadrukt het massale bloedvergieten. 5 Dichter bij de hel kon je niet komen. 6 Onze re-enactment-acteurs waren graag geziene gasten op alle herdenkingsplechtigheden. 7 Kleurrijke granatenkunst in Museum Passendale. 8 Michelin verkocht een mega-oplage van deze Slagveldgidsen. 9 Het Westvlaamse heuvelland herbergt zo veel moois en tegelijk oneindig veel wreeds.

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Britse regering allerlei protectionistische maatregelen invoeren om ets na zevenen staan er al een honderdtal wachtenden onder het juist te voorkomen dat hun hoogtechnologische kennis volledig in hanmarmeren mausoleum waarin de namen staan gebeiteld van den van de Chinezen valt. Van een bloedige onderwerpingscampagne is 54.896 vermiste soldaten. Het bezoekersaantal zal het komende al lang geen sprake meer: de verschuiving van de wereldmacht speelt uur nog gestaag toenemen, want de belangstelling voor The Last zich volledig af via de beleggingsportefeuilles van grote multinationals.

Post is de voorbije herdenkingsjaren spectaculair toegenomen.

GTO â&#x20AC;˘ 3 â&#x20AC;˘ 2018 Dat gebeurt83 zo subtiel dat de meeste kopers van een Range Rover niet Terwijl er tot de jaren 70 nauwelijks aandacht bestond voor de ingetoeens weten dat het Jaguar Land Rover-concern al sinds 2008 eigendom gen ceremonie die sinds 1928 al ruim 31.000 keer werd herhaald. is van het Indiase Tata Motors. Om de cirkel van het omgekeerde koloOorspronkelijk was The Last Post het universele deuntje waarmee de nialisme helemaal rond te maken: in 2012 besloot JLR eveneens een Britse militairen het einde van de dag aankondigden, maar onder joint venture op te richten met het Chinese Chery Automobile voor de de Menenpoort werd deze sonnerie de symbolische hymne ter nageproductie en verkoop van autoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in China. Dat land is inmiddels de dachtenis van de ontelbare oorlogsslachtoffers. Elke avond even derde afzetmarkt voor het â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Britseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; bedrijf en daarom rollen er ook in voor achten wordt het verkeer stilgelegd bij de stadspoort van Ieper, Shanghai inmiddels al Land/Range Rovers en Jaguars van de band. honderd jaar geleden de toegangspoort naar de hel waarlangs honderdDesalniettemin blijft men zichzelf als puur Brits beschouwen, want zo duizenden frontsoldaten met een wereldveroveraarsblik naar de loopwordt bij Jaguar Land Rover geredeneerd, het grootste deel van de graven van de Westhoek marcheerden, de meeste om er nooit meer van wereldproductie vindt nog steeds plaats in de fabriek van Solihull, terug te keren. Gestorven voor het vaderland, beweend in het moederonder de rook van Birmingham. De vraag is alleen: hoe lang nog? land. Uit alle hoeken van de wereld word â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;het verdrietâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; hier naartoe gebracht, want ook de vijftig(!) koloniĂŤn van het toenmalige Britse MISPLAATST TRIOMFALISME Imperium werden als leverancier van kanonnenvlees ingeschakeld.

Buitenlandse investeerders worden namelijk warm noch koud van de Voor de nabestaanden is de gebeitelde naamsvermelding vaak de enige zogenaamde British Pride; die kijken alleen maar naar hun eigen pragtastbare herinnering. Een druppel troost in een oceaan van lijden. Van matische profijt. Gevreesd wordt dat de besluiteloosheid rond de Brexit tienduizenden soldaten werd helemaal niets teruggevonden, of ze wel eens de definitieve doodsteek zou kunnen betekenen voor de Britse liggen ergens voor eeuwig begraven, opgeslokt door de dodenakkers auto-industrie. De weg naar het buitenland bleek eerder al de weg naar van weleer. Hoeveel het er zijn, weet niemand. Maar zelfs zonder enig het succes voor Rolls-Royce, Bentley, Aston Martin en Mini. In veel opverwantschap blijft The Last Post een indrukwekkend moment dat zichten is en blijft Engeland toch een eiland, met deels ouderwetse niemand onberoerd laat. technieken en hopeloos achterhaalde inzichten. In honderd jaar tijd ALLESBEPALENDE OORLOG van werelddominantie naar economische bedelstaf? Het oorzakelijke Wanneer we eerder die middag met onze Range Rover Velar onder verband van die downfall is volledig te herleiden naar de Eerste diezelfde Menenpoort doorrijden, dringt plots het besef door dat de Wereldoorlog, hoe gek dat ook mag klinken. Zodra je rode geschiedenisgeschiedenis soms paradoxale wendingen neemt. Want in alle eerlijklijnen begint te trekken, kom je steeds weer uit op die krankzinnige heid: een Land Rover Range Rover associeer je toch nog steeds met massaslachting van 14-18. Ook de Tweede Wereldoorlog, de Koude Distinctive Britishness; een Victoriaans superioriteitsgevoel dat zâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;n Oorlog, de oorlogen op de Balkan en vrijwel alle conflicten in het beschavingsnorm ontleent aan de tijd dat Brittannia de scepter zwaaiMidden-Oosten vinden allemaal hun wortels in deze wereldbrand. de over alle wereldzeeĂŤn. Dat aureool van aristocratische verhevenheid Zoals de Eerste Wereldoorlog eveneens de kraamkamer was van comdefinieert nadrukkelijk de merkstatus van Range Rover: de chique munisme, fascisme en nationaalsocialisme. In breder perspectief: net zwijgzaamheid van esthetisch dedain. Maar eigenlijk is dat Britse vlagzoals de aanslagen van 9/11 hun schaduw hebben vooruitgeworpen op vertoon alleen nog maar schone schijn, want in de nieuwe wereldorde de woelige tijden van nu, zo was 14-18 het allesbepalende scharniermoheeft Groot-BrittanniĂŤ zo goed als niets meer in de melk te brokkelen. ment van de 20e eeuw. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Was this a great victory or a dreadful crime?â&#x20AC;?, Honderd jaar geleden kon men met al zâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;n despotische macht nog moeiteloos/schaamteloos 1,3 miljoen Indiase soldaten optrommelen voor de 1 Schots Highlander-monument bij het Polygoonbos in Zonnebeke. 2 De Menenstrijd aan het Westelijk front, maar o ironie: anno 2018 zijn het juist de poort was niet groot genoeg om alle vermisten te vermelden. In totaal vind je er IndiĂŤrs die als grootste kapitaalinvesteerders de wankele Brexitde namen van 54.896 vermiste soldaten van het Britse Gemenebest. 3 Oorlogskunst economie overeind houden. Idem dito voor de Britse koloniale overin het bezoekerscentrum van Kemmel. 4 In 1916 was de Menenpoort de poort naar de hel. 5 Al ruim 30.000 keer werd in Ieper The Last Post geblazen. 6 De dagelijkse heersing in China: ook daar werden 134.000 koelies geronseld om als Last Post-ceremonie in de Menenpoort. 7 Ieper was een van de grote martelarenwerkslaven te worden uitgebuit achter de frontlinies van Passendale steden van de Eerste Wereldoorlog. 8 Protocol van de dood: er waren weinig Britse gezinnen die niet zoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;n tragisch telegram ontvingen. en de Somme. In de geglobaliseerde wereldeconomie van 2018 moet de

Section: General News â&#x20AC;˘ Article type : News Item Classification : Australian Online Newsletters â&#x20AC;˘ Audience : 0 â&#x20AC;˘ Page: 4 Printed Size: 113.00cm² â&#x20AC;˘ Market: National â&#x20AC;˘ Country: Australia â&#x20AC;˘ ASR: AUD 660 Words: 112 â&#x20AC;˘ Item ID: 851258331

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FLANDERS

Life&Leisure Page 1 of 1

GTO â&#x20AC;˘ 3 â&#x20AC;˘ 2018

ĨĆ&#x152;Žž Ä&#x201A;ĹŻĹŻ Ä&#x17E;Ç&#x2020;Ĺ&#x161;Ĺ?Ä?Ĺ?Ć&#x161;Ĺ˝Ć&#x152;Ć? Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; Ä&#x201A;ĆŠÄ&#x17E;ĹśÄ&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x17E;Ć?Í&#x2DC; Pictured all smiles at the DÄ&#x17E;ĹŻÄ?ŽƾĆ&#x152;ĹśÄ&#x17E; Ć?Ĺ&#x161;Ĺ˝Ç Ä¨Ć&#x152;Žž ĹŻÄ&#x17E;Ĺ&#x152; are Marie McEnally, Tourism /Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;ĹŻÄ&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161;Í&#x2013; Ĺ?Ć&#x152;Ĺ?Ĺ?Ć&#x161; tÄ&#x17E;Ĺ?ĹśĹ?Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152;Ć&#x161;ĹśÄ&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Í&#x2022; ^Ç Ĺ?Ć&#x161;Ç&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;ĹŻÄ&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; dŽƾĆ&#x152;Ĺ?Ć?ĹľÍ&#x2013; ^ŽŜĹ?Ä&#x201A; ,ŽůĆ&#x161;Í&#x2022; sĹ?Ć?Ĺ?Ć&#x161;&ĹŻÄ&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ć?Í&#x2013; dĆ&#x152;Ä&#x201A;ĆľĆ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; dĆľÄ?ŏĨÄ&#x17E;ĹŻÄ&#x161;Í&#x2022; 'Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;ĹľÄ&#x201A;Ĺś EÄ&#x201A;Ć&#x;ŽŜÄ&#x201A;ĹŻ dŽƾĆ&#x152;Ĺ?Ć?Ĺľ KĸÄ?Ä&#x17E;Í&#x2013; Ĺ&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ĺ?Ć?Ć&#x;ĹśÄ&#x201A; Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152;ĹśĹ&#x161;ŽĨÄ&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Í&#x2022; ĆľĆ?Ć&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ĺ?Ä&#x201A;Ĺś EÄ&#x201A;Ć&#x;ŽŜÄ&#x201A;ĹŻ dŽƾĆ&#x152;Ĺ?Ć?Ć&#x161; KĸÄ?Ä&#x17E;Í&#x2013; ĹľÄ&#x201A;ŜƾÄ&#x201A;ĹŻÄ&#x17E; ĆŠÄ&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x201A;Ć?Ĺ?Ä&#x201A;Í&#x2022; /Ć&#x161;Ä&#x201A;ĹŻĹ?Ä&#x201A;Ĺś ^Ć&#x161;Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x161;Ä&#x17E; dŽƾĆ&#x152;Ĺ?Ć?Ć&#x161; Board and Kristen Angus from VisitBritain.

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9-11 Ju June 2017 The Australian Financial Review www. www.afr.com

AFR A

8

FLANDERS REMEMBERING

GTO â&#x20AC;˘ 3 â&#x20AC;˘ 2018

European Travel Expos conclude THE ÄŽĹśÄ&#x201A;ĹŻ Ä&#x17E;Ç&#x20AC;Ä&#x17E;ĹśĆ&#x161; ŽĨ Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x17E; European Travel Expos held in Sydney, Brisbane and Melbourne wrapped up last weekend.

Each expo featured a range of European Tourist Bureaux, along Ç Ĺ?Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161; Ä&#x201A; Ć?Ä&#x17E;ĹŻÄ&#x17E;Ä?Ć&#x;ŽŜ ŽĨ Ĺ?ĹśÄ&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x2030;Ä&#x17E;ĹśÄ&#x161;Ä&#x17E;ĹśĆ&#x161; Ä&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ć?Ć&#x;ĹśÄ&#x201A;Ć&#x;ŽŜ Ć?Ć&#x2030;Ä&#x17E;Ä?Ĺ?Ä&#x201A;ĹŻĹ?Ć?Ć&#x161;Ć? Ć&#x2030;Ć&#x152;ŽžŽĆ&#x;ĹśĹ? travel to Europe in 2018.

The events were open to the public and agents, and were declared a great success for all Ĺ?ĹśÇ&#x20AC;ŽůÇ&#x20AC;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x161;Í&#x2022; Ç Ĺ?Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161; Ć&#x2030;Ĺ˝Ć?Ĺ?Ć&#x;Ç&#x20AC;Ä&#x17E; ĨÄ&#x17E;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x161;Ä?Ä&#x201A;Ä?ĹŹ

(June 30TYNE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; September 2): allied This cemetery. tells Cot â&#x20AC;&#x201C; biggest Photo: SUPPLIED. the story of the women involved here will be no more between 1914-18, from nurses to poignant place to be in prostitutes. A â&#x20AC;&#x153;comfort routeâ&#x20AC;? takes 2018 than Flanders. visitors through pavilions decorated It saw the worst of the with healing art and consoling slaughter on the Western Front in poetry. poperinge14-18.be the â&#x20AC;&#x153;war to end all warsâ&#x20AC;? and the â&#x2013; HIPPO.WAR, Waregem: Two Belgian region will be marking permanent exhibitions examine the the centenary of the Armistice role of the US and of horses through with a year of compelling events. photo, clips, audio files and arteHereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s our pick... facts, an interactive quiz and a horse â&#x2013; Coming World Remember Me hospital. hippowar.be â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Palingbeek park, near Ypres â&#x2013; More info: visitflanders.com (March 30 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; November 11): This art installation will have 600,000 handmade figurines spread out in the open to create a â&#x20AC;&#x153;no-manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s landâ&#x20AC;?, accompanied by war poetry and an observation bridge. cwrm.be â&#x2013; WWI, The Battle For The North Sea â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Provincial Court, Bruges (April 21 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; August 31): The occupying Germans installed a vast network of ports, artillery batteries, bunkers and airfields in this area 27 Sep 2017 and, operating from Ostend and Adelaide Advertiser, Adelaide L9 Life&Leisure Zeebrugge, they sent 2,550 Allied Author: Ellen Whinnett â&#x20AC;˘ Section: International News â&#x20AC;˘ Article type ships to the bottom of the sea. The Classification : Capital City Daily â&#x20AC;˘ Audience : 117,273 â&#x20AC;˘ Page: 26 court will display historic artefacts OVER THE Printed Size: 435.00cm² â&#x20AC;˘ Market: SA â&#x20AC;˘ Country: Australia â&#x20AC;˘ ASR: and never-before-seen illustrations TOP Flanders Words: 253 â&#x20AC;˘ Item ID: 850631986 remembers to shed light on the conflict. vliz.be â&#x20AC;? â&#x2013; The Final Offensive In Flanders Licensed by Copyright Agency. You may only copy or communicate this work with a â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Zonnebeke area (April 21 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; November 11): An exhibition in three locations â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Memorial Museum Passchendaele, HIPP O.WAR Waregem (see below) and Heuvelland Visitor Centre â&#x20AC;&#x201C; connected by The a tourist route will highlight the last i GrievingParents year of the war and the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s liberation by Belgian and American troops. The role of Belgiumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s King Albert I in the offensive will also be explained. passchendaele.be â&#x2013; Healing Exhibition â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Poperinge

T

De wens van vele Britten was om de ruïnes van Ieper symbolisch te bewaren

I

GTO â&#x20AC;˘ 3 â&#x20AC;˘ 2018

Source: Travel Extra {Main} Edition: Country: Republic of Ireland Date: Friday 1, December 2017 Page: 14,15 Area: 1268 sq. cm Circulation: 0 Monthly Ad data: page rate ÂŁ1,681.00, scc rate Phone: Tel(+3531) 2913708

Keyword:

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27 Sep 2017 Travel Daily

night, with a small explanatory exhibition about them also opened at the Flanders Fields Museum in the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s imposing Cloth Hall.

The lions, which each hold a shield bearing the coat-of-arms of Ypres, had stood guard at the Menin Gate from the mid-19th century. During World War I the city was reduced to ruins by German

Poison gas used

by Germans 7+( VHFRQG JUHDW EDWWOH RI <SUHV ZDV IRXJKW LQ WKH VSULQJ RI ZKHQ WKH *HUPDQV ÂżUVW XVHG SRLVRQ JDV H[WHQVLYHO\ DWWUDFWLQJ ZLGHVSUHDG FRQGHPQDWLRQ DQG the suppression of anything with *HUPDQ FRQQRWDWLRQ WKURXJKRXW Britain and the Commonwealth.

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kant waren gigantisch, maar toch weigerde de legerleiding om de aanvalsgolven te stoppen. Na honderd dagen onafgebroken oorlogsvoering waren de geallieerde troepen amper acht kilometer opgerukt, terwijl de strijd al 250.000 mensenlevens had geĂŤist. Ook hier weer â&#x20AC;&#x201C; zoals overal in Ieper â&#x20AC;&#x201C; die eindeloze, moedeloos makende kruisenrijen, strak in het gelid, het gras gemillimeterd. Het is mooi en ontroerend, en vreselijk.

When thousands of Australian and New Zealand troops marched from the Belgian city of Ieper to the battlefields of the Western Front they passed two stone lions at the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Menin Gate.

Many of those soldiers never made it home but the lions, which were given to Australia by Ypres, have been temporarily returned to

HONDERD JAAR EERSTE WERELDOORLOG IEPER

Amidallthepompandceremony tomarkthe100thanniversaryof severaliconicbattlesinthe FlandersďŹ eldsthisyearcomesa reminder:everysoldierkilledin warleavesagrievingmother,no matterwhichsidetheyfoughton.

ForAustralians,oneofthemost poignantstoriesisthatofthe Seabrookbrothers.Theo,25, George,24,andWilliam,20,left SydneytogetherinAugust2016as reinforcementsforthe17th InfantryBattalion.

ThethreebrothersfromFive DockininnerSydneyfoughtinthe BattleofMeninRoadinSeptember 1917,asuccessful,ďŹ rst engagementoftheAustralian infantryinthegreateroffensive knownastheBattleof Passchendaele.FortheSeabrook boys,however,itwastheirďŹ rst, lastandonlybattle.Allthreewere mortallywoundedinaction,and

79

TRAVEL FLANDERS FIELDS

The sound of distant gunďŹ re These vivid memorials mark the mindless slaughter of the Great War, writes Michael Visontay.

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Would you like to hear us sing Waltzing Matilda?â&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an invitation seldom heard at any cemetery, much less a military cemetery on the other side of the world. We look sideways at each other, unsure how to respond to this offer from a middle-aged couple from Brisbane, Peter and Susan Sercomb. In truth, it is impossible to refuse, because our group has already said â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;no thanksâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;&#x2122; a few hours earlier at another memorial site.

Now we stand, teeth gritted, among thousands of white headstones at Tyne Cot Cemetery near Ypres in Belgium, ground zero of the ďŹ elds of Flanders from World War I. I am prepared for the worst, an anthem borrowed from State of Origin.

Instead, Susan unpacks a ukulele she has been carrying on her back â&#x20AC;&#x201C; yes, a ukulele â&#x20AC;&#x201C; while Peter holds out an iPad that displays the lyrics (he plays the double bass, but it was too big to bring).

Susan strums a gentle rendition of And the band played Waltzing Matilda, the iconic antiwar song written by Eric Bogle in 1971, when the Vietnam War was at its height.

Ah, that Waltzing Matilda. I am so happy to be proven wrong, and offer them a silent apology. The moment is profoundly moving; this retired nurse delivers a personal tribute to a young Brisbane soldier whose story was passed on by their Belgian guide, who heard about it herself from a Brisbane school teacher.

The night before, in the centre of Ypres, there was another tribute to the fallen at the Menin Gate, a huge memorial dedicated to the nearly 55,000 Commonwealth soldiers who were killed in WWI battles in the area and whose graves are unknown. Several hundred people gathered at 8pm to witness the sounding of the Last Post, and the laying of

wreaths by young and old soldiers and a sprinkling of schoolchildren.

This year is the 100th anniversary of several iconic battles in Flanders Fields and there are many ceremonies planned throughout the year to commemorate the landmark events, most notably the Battle of Passchendaele (in September).

The ceremony at Menin Gate night was not one of them; it is held at the same time every night of the year. Although it is hugely popular and the solemnity of young children touching, there is just a hint of performance to the occasion. I have been brought up to remember the fallen once a year, not every day, and the fact that they hold it every night somehow

undermines the gravity we are supposed to feel.

Perhaps the problem lies in me. There is overwhelming reason to remember the war every day in Ypres. This prosperous trading town was completely destroyed by the Germans over three battles during the Great War. At some stages the enemy rained down 20 shells a minute on its medieval grandeur, wiping out a thousand years of history. Such was the devastation that Winston Churchill wanted Ypres to stay in ruins as a living memorial to the carnage of war.

The town elders overruled him and rebuilt the centre and surrounding villages. So, unlike many ancient cities in this part of the world, it

The Last Post is played every night at the Menin Gate memorial to the Commonwealth fallen, Ypres.

Main: Bayernwald Wijtschate trenches.

Clockwise from top left: Anzac Day Ceremony at Zonnebeke; In Flanders Fields Museum, Ypres; and the Museum of Passchendaele. Far right: Australian servicemen and women are still remembered in Flanders.

doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t strike the visitor as old, with the conspicuous exception of the church tower and massive Cloth Hall (one of the largest nonreligious buildings in medieval Europe).

Nevertheless, the knowledge of what happened runs very deep here; it is imprinted in the DNA. Although the Second World War also touched the area, its impact was minor compared with the earlier conďŹ&#x201A;ict. Historians have created a vivid, sprawling memorial to those years: not just museums and cemeteries but battleďŹ elds and physical remnants of how the land and locals were changed permanently.

Importantly, they are focused on the impact on ordinary people, whether they were soldiers or civilians. For example, just outside the town is Hill 60 (named because it was 60 metres above sea level), which had such strategic importance as a lookout that it changed hands seven times during the war, most famously during the Battle of Messines, in June 1917.

The Allies could not dislodge the Germans and so, for more than six months, the 1st Australian Tunnelling Company famously laid a series of 25 mines underneath the hill to blast the enemy off the face of the earth. Our excellent guide, Martial, tells us that the Australian miners were known as claykickers because they would lie at 45 degrees on boards and kick out the clay with long picks attached to their feet, like pogo sticks.

For their expertise and bravery, these tunnellers, who were often miners in civilian life, were paid at least twice as much as regular soldiers (and by some accounts up to six times as much). At precisely 3.10am on June 7, they detonated the mines. Nineteen of them went off, killing thousands of German soldiers in an inferno so large it was ofďŹ cially recorded as an earthquake. Martial tells us that there were no injuries from the blast. The soldiers knew everyone died because they did not see any bodies shaking when they came up to survey the scene.

Walking around this area, we see trees with painted metal baskets around them. The blue ones represent the British frontline, the red ones the German. At some point, we can see that the front is only 30 metres wide, which meant the soldiers could see the faces of the other young men they were trying to kill, and who were trying to kill them.

On the southern part of Hill 60, we visit a place called The Caterpillar, where the land is still deformed by a massive crater caused by the shelling. It measures 80 metres across and 15 metres deep, and as we walk down the lumpy grass to the bottom, we see a ring of

There is overwhelming reason to remember the war every day in Ypres. trees circling the rim. Nothing else has grown there in 100 years. It is humbling to think how many shells must have been dropped on this piece of ground to cause such devastation.

Next we are off to the nearby Museum of Passchendaele, which commemorates the battle of the same name (aka The Third Battle of Ypres), which the Allies, encouraged by the success of their mines, launched in July 1917.

The campaign can best be described as a catastrophic victory: over 100 days, more than 500,000 men on all sides were killed for a gain by the Allies of only eight kilometres of ground. This was the epicentre of the mindless slaughter in mud we now associate with the Great War.

diedinthedaysimmediatelyafter.

Williamwasburiedatamilitary cemeterynearYpres,butthe bodiesofTheoandGeorgewere neverfound.Theywerelater commemoratedattheMenin GateMemorial.Itishardto comprehendthepainthatWilliam andFannySeabrookenduredover losingtheirthreesons.

Fromtheothersideofthe trenchescomesthestoryofKathe Kollwitz,aprominentGerman artistwhoseyoungersonPeter,19, waskilledatYprestwomonths afterthewarstarted.â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Thereisin ourlivesawoundwhichwillnever heal.Norshouldit,â&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;&#x2122;shewrotetoa friend.

Kollwitzchannelledhersadness intocreatingamemorialthattook nearly20yearstorealise.After destroyinganearlyversionin1919, sheultimatelycreatedtwosingle stoneďŹ gures:adejectedfather

The museum has a reconstruction of a dugout, an underground ďŹ eld camp. As we walk through it, the claustrophobia is overwhelming. We do not, however, have to experience the stench the soldiers endured, the lice that swarmed their mattresses, or the ground shaking with the constant shelling nearby.

Remarkably, there is a real dugout, intact, just a few kilometres away. A few years ago an archaeological team was excavating beneath a church in nearby Zonnebeke, looking for a crypt, and instead found a huge, preserved Australian dugout that could hold 2000 soldiers. The complex, built under the church to afford protection from the front, is nearly 30 metres long and includes side corridors, ďŹ ve other rooms and two stairways. The restoration is almost complete; the site will be ofďŹ cially opened on July 31 by Prince William and his wife, Kate Middleton.

For the royals, and all visitors, the Flanders Fields are a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;plein airâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;&#x2122; museum, complete with balloon rides and boat trips down key waterways of the war, with bunkers dotted along the way. For the locals, however, the ďŹ elds remain an ever present source410712175 of danger.

In April a farmer was ploughing his land on a tractor when he cut the top off a buried shell.

Fortunately, the vehicle absorbed most of the impact and he survived.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s estimated that 500,000 shells are still found every year in these ďŹ elds. When locals ďŹ nd them in industrial areas, they are told to put them by the side of the road. Last year, a group of Turkish workers, unfamiliar with the shells, accidentally moved or touched one in a pile alongside a road. It blew up, killing several of them.

The Great War may be over but the legacy of Flanders lives on in every sense. L&L

Theo, George and William Seabrook (left), and The Grieving Parents.

withhisarmswrappedtightly aroundhischest,andamother bowedover,headdowncast.

Thememorial,titled ,waseventually completedin1932,andforgesa powerfulimprintonanyonewho

seesit.LocatedattheVladslo Germanwarcemetery,ashort drivefromYpres,itisinalarge garden,encasedbysilenceand sparseness,andgivesvoicetothe grieffeltbyallparentsofthefallen.

MICHAELVISONTAY

Need to know

Battle of Passchendaele The Australian Commemoration Ceremony will be held on September 26 at a dawn service in Polygon Wood. Register at ticketek.com.au Silent City Meets Living City A service will be held at Tyne Cot Cemetery in Passchendaele at 7pm on October 14 to mark the 100th anniversary of the battle.

Gravestones and names will be illuminated in a sound and light show, with music and personal stories.

1917: Total War In Flanders Six new exhibitions about the year 1917 in Flanders Fields, running from June 3 (the anniversary of Battle of Messines) to December 31. For more information on all these events see passchendaele2017.org

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The writer travelled as a guest of Visit Flanders.

FLANDERS GHENT

Medieval Flemish charm Ghent is famous for its history but has much more to offer.

The Flemish town of Ghent was described by Lonely Planet as Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best-kept secret but, after a short stay, its many charms are obvious.

This regional centre, less than an hour from Brussels, allows its medieval splendour to sit comfortably alongside a chic modern sensibility. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the rustic character of its old quarter, the asymmetrical audacity of its modern buildings or an eclectic mix of design culture, Ghent offers pleasures for all tastes.

The best way to acquaint yourself with the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s charms is by hopping into the water. The guided canal tours offer a potted history of Ghentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rise as a prosperous trading hub, the stories behind its grand and kooky guild buildings, and some fun facts about the thousands of bicycles dumped into the waterways every year.

Back on land, the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest jewel is the Ghent Altarpiece, described by The Guardian

â&#x2014;?

as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;the most inďŹ&#x201A;uential painting everâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;&#x2122; and â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most coveted masterpieceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;&#x2122;. It has been the centre of 13 crimes and was No. 1 on Hitlerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wish list. Last October, after four years of restoration, the 15th-century Flemish depiction of Christ and the Annunciation was unveiled in all its radiant glory in St Bavoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cathedral. With more than 100 ďŹ gures in its multiple panels, the altarpiece is a magnet for visitors, and the cathedral also packs a punch with its massive vaulted ceiling.

A stoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s throw away stands the ultramodern Ghent City Pavilion, which has the roof of a church resting on four concrete pillars and is open on all sides. Look mum, no walls.

This award-winning building, all wood and glass and defying easy description, points the city ďŹ rmly into the future. It is stunning to behold.

Joining it in the must-see stakes is Ghentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

The Ghent City Pavilion; detail from the 15th-century Ghent Altarpiece by Jan van Eyck.

new public library, De Krook, which has become an instant hit since it was opened in March. This low, long structure juts boldly over the canal, with two huge ďŹ&#x201A;oors hanging over the lower ďŹ&#x201A;oors.

The whole building has only one door, and unfolds upwards and outwards to create a community centre that locals like to just hang out in, even if theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not enjoying its considerable resources.

A short stroll from the library lies an inviting array of design, art and concept stores that cater for all manner of aesthetic tastes.

The Piet Mood Shop is an interior design and gift store with an eclectic range of goodies,

from huge Scrabble tiles (buy your partnerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name), to cool wall calendars and monkeylamps (pietmoodshop.be). Just up the road is The Other Shop, a hip new bookstore with everything from luxe travel books to bizarre anatomy titles, and gravity-defying wooden puzzles (ďŹ nd it on Facebook).

If you need to recharge, the Belfort Food Bar is a large, cosy bistro submerged beneath the ultra-cool City Pavilion, with excellent seafood pasta and burgers. For a more substantial meal, Oude Vismijn offers tasty brasserie fare in a modernised medieval barn looking over the main canal. L&L MICHAEL VISONTAY

Article Page 1 of 1

Wood of Peace â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Tree Planting Day A tree will be planted for each fallen soldier with a known grave at the two British cemeteries at Polygon Wood. There will be two planting days, September 26 and October 12.

Registration required passchendaele2017.org Menin Gate Last Post At 8pm each day beneath the Menin Gate, volunteer buglers from the Last Post Association raise their instruments to sound the Last Post.

Flanders Fields Museum This museum in Ypres presents the story of World War I in the region. See inďŹ&#x201A;andersďŹ elds.be Memorial Museum of Passchendaele Brings the horror of this landmark battle to life.

Highlights include a reconstruction of a dugout, and an extensive exhibit on gas and chemical weapons.

See passchendaele.be Where to stay in Ypres Ypres Ariane Hotel Slachthuisstraat 58. ariane.be/en; Novotel Ypres Centrum Flanders Fields Hotel, Sint Jacobsstraat 15. accorhotels.com Where to stay in Brussels The Dominican Hotel Rue LeĚ opold 9. dominican.brusselshotels.netn For more information See visitďŹ&#x201A;anders.com or toerisme-ieper.be

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80

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ELLEN WHINNETT POLYGON WOOD, BELGIUM ALMOST 1000 people have made an emotional journey to Polygon Wood in Belgium to honour the 5700 young Australian soldiers killed in

battle there 100 years ago.

Descendants of the fallen gathered yesterday among the headstones at the Buttes New British Cemetery outside Zonnebeke for a dawn service.

Beforehan a 1km reflect the forest w battle raged o 1917, pausing

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The centenary of Passchendaele gives AIR TRAVEL UNEXPECTED SWITZERLAND FOOD COUPLES THERAPY visitors a unique perspective on what soldiers endured underground, says Emma Thomson ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Life & Leısure A

hundred years ago, a group of British, AFR Australian and Canadian tunnellers were constructing a dugout directly beneath the ruins of Zonnebeke parish church. These underground shelters that connected with the trench systems were the only protection against the constant shellfire on the front line. Digging them out was a grim job. As they toiled in the dim light, liquid mud sloshing around their boots, the tunnellers would have heard the muffled boom of shells exploding overhead. Their Allied comrades were fighting to fend off advancing German forces in the final stages of the Battle of Passchendaele, one of the bloodiest of the First World War. It was particularly intense here: the village of Zonnebeke – northeast of

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IN FLANDERS FIELDS THE POPPIES BLOW TRAVEL GUIDE

em 24.00cm² m ID: 858199966

Ypres, in Belgium – sat at the centre of the Ypres Salient, a Front Line bulge that fluctuated by just a few miles for the duration of the conflict.

The tunnellers never finished digging. The Battle of Passchendaele lost its momentum and the Allies were forced to retreat for fear of being surrounded. When the war was won nine months later, the battlefields were cleared and entrances to these underground constructions closed up.

For 71 years, the Zonnebeke Church Dugout lay forgotten. Then, in 1989, it was rediscovered by a team of archaeologists trying to locate the 12th-century crypt of an Augustinian abbey that once stood on this site.

Now – with careful drainage, research and a 3D inventory complete – the dugout will be opened to the public on Tuesday, the centenary of

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CONTINUED FROM PAGE 9 thing. And once it shuts on November 10 that’s it. It’ll be closed forever, and allowed to re-flood with water,” says Degroote, a little sadly, as we stand looking at the scale model of the tunnel housed inside the Memorial Museum Passchendaele 1917. “It may be our last chance to see an original relic of the Great War.” At the height of the war, more soldiers were surviving Passchendaele was one of the defining underground in the conflicts of the First World War s Ypres area than the Source: The Daily Telegraph {Travel} 35,000 people Edition: living in the city Country: UK today. Zonnebeke, Date: Saturday 29, July 2017 at the heart of the Page: 9,10 Area: 1033 sq. cm Ypres Salient and so Circulation: ABC 484010 Daily open to shelling from Ad data: page rate £46,000.00, scc rate £214.00 three sides, had the largest Phone: 020 7931 2000 concentration of underground Visit Flanders Keyword: constructions in the entire area. More than 180 have been located, but only a few have been explored and – Reproduced by Gorkana under licence from the NLA (newspapers), CLA (magazines), FT (Financial Times/ft.com) or other copyright owner. No further copying (including printing of digital cuttings), digital reproduction/forwarding of the cutting is permitted exceptprotected under licence fromby the the copyright foundations of the owner. All FT content is copyright The Financial Times Ltd. Article Page 3 of 6 – Zonnebeke Church former church 397374426 - DIMDAL - DC267-2 - 128026171 Dugout is one of the best-preserved examples in the region.

Its opening is part of a series of events commemorating the centenary of the Battle of Passchendaele. Also known as the Third Battle of Ypres, it became one of the defining conflicts of the First World War, lasting 100 days and claiming half a million casualties for the sake of a five-mile advance.

Thunderous rain turned the battlefield into a quagmire of mud that drowned tanks, horses and men as they tried to reclaim the high ground at Passchendaele and push the Germans back from the coast, in order to destroy their submarine bases that threatened Britain’s supply lines and the American reinforcements arriving by ship.

A total of 61 Victoria Crosses were awarded – the most of any single battle.

So, apart from visiting the dugout, how do you best get a feel for the realities of Passchendaele, and honour those who

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GETTY IMAGES; ALAMY; EMMA THOMSON

‘Down there, they were safe from shells’

Visit Flanders

died? Central to any visit must be the cemeteries, and first among those is Tyne Cot, the world’s largest Commonwealth war-grave cemetery and the final resting place for 11,953 souls.

As well as the immaculate ranks of gravestones, Tyne Cot also enshrines the remains of the battlefield, and the visitors’ centre here displays the hauls of shrapnel cleared from the ground when the cemetery was built.

Originally a German stronghold, its bunkers served as advanced dressing stations, with those who died from their wounds being buried round about and marked with wooden crosses. Control of it passed back and forth until the Belgian Army claimed it in September 1918.

Almost as many soldiers lie buried in Lijssenthoek Military Cemetery near Poperinge, west of Ypres. It sat beyond the reach of German artillery fire and was used as a field hospital for the entirety of the war, with treatment rooms cobbled together inside abandoned farm buildings. Many of the casualties from Passchendaele were brought here, and the green space is home to 10,784 graves.

South of Zonnebeke is Polygon Wood, which was lost to the Germans in May 1915, completely razed during fighting, and not recaptured until September 1917. It is dedicated to the Australian and New Zealand divisions who died defending the position in 1917.

A walled avenue leads across the road to Buttes New British Cemetery.

Purpose-built after the Armistice, it’s the burial ground for 2,108 soldiers brought in from the battlefields of Zonnebeke – mostly in 1917 – more than half of which were never identified.

Also worth visiting is the Passchendaele Memorial, which covers the land once occupied by Crest Farm – a site of particularly stubborn German resistance. The modest square monument is dedicated to the Canadian troops who fought there, and is, fittingly, lined with maple trees.

Finally, to get an overview of the entire battle, the Memorial Museum

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FLANDERS

THE Cloth Hall and Cathedral by night in the centre of modern Ypres. Photo: SUPPLIED.

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Remembrance trail links significant sights

aving tips

ON

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More and more Australians are making the journey to battlefields of the Western Front

W

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Polygon pilgrims’ honour to fallen

hile the Australian World War I narrative has traditionally focused on Gallipoli, in truth that was only a small part of the full story.

The Australian losses in Turkey in 1915 were soon eclipsed by the carnage on the battlefields of France and Belgium, known as the Western Front, where the Diggers fought between 1916 and 1918.

There were 8709 Diggers killed as a result of the eight-month Gallipoli campaign and more than 17,000 men wounded.

About 295,000 Australians served on the Western Front, more than 46,000 died and 132,000 were wounded.

Increasing numbers of Australians have, over recent years, been making the journey to some of those battlefields to pay their respects along what is now known as the Australian Remembrance Trail.

The trail, developed by the Australian Department of Veterans’ Affairs with the French and Belgian governments and local communities, links significant Australian WWI sites, from around Passchendaele in Belgium to the area of some of the last Australian actions in France near Peronne.

SITE 1 YPRES (IEPER), BELGIUM The town was devastated by

FLANDERS

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etc TRAVEL

Flanders One man’s pilgrimage to the fields where his grandfather’s life changed for ever

SITE 2 TYNE COT CEMETERY, ZONNEBEKE, BELGIUM

This year the centenary is being marked by a range of ceremonies, exhibitions and events across what is now a rural idyll.

HE old soldier’s voice cracks as The fight for Passchendaele village was he reaches the final line of a verse but one of a series of major conflagrations synonymous with the fallen. The on the Ypres Salient through the course veteran pauses and bows his of the war – four years that saw countless head, momentarily obscuring perish for a stretch of land you could now his taut face beneath a pristine navy beret, traverse in a brisk morning walk. before concluding poet Laurence Binyon’s The Commonwealth forces alone lost emotive stanza.

185,000 lives in the area between 1914 and “At the going down of the sun and in the 1918. The names of 55,000 whose bodies morning, we will remember them.” were never found are engraved on the white He is surrounded by crowds, yet the Portland-stone walls of the Menin Gate. pensioner strikes a solitary figure beneath Another 48,000 missing are listed on two the neoclassical arches of Ypres’ Menin other memorials in the area.

Gate, his grandfather’s medal pinned to his Before I retrace my grandfather’s steps left breast, as he honours a man he never over the hills where so many still lie, lost got the chance to meet. to the earth upon which they fell, I leave Moments earlier three volunteer buglers the shadow of the Menin Gate to venture from the local fire station had played a further into Ypres – a town resurrected haunting rendition of the Last Post – the from the ashes of war. notes drifting out towards Flanders Fields, Obliterated by shell bombardment, the as they have done every evening, apart from the years of Nazi occupation, since 1928. task of piecing Ypres back together began “I was moved, really moved,” the retired in 1918 – and it would be 50 years until corporal admits, as we chat at the close of it was complete. Turning slowly as I scan a nightly act of remembrance that draws the mix of late medieval, Renaissance and hundreds of thousands of visitors every Gothic facades that surround the cobbled year. “My grandfather died in the first war. main square, it is staggering to think it’s all That was for him.” a 20th-century construct.

26 Sep 2017 My trip, like his, is personal.

One of the most impressive rebuilds, My grandfather – Sapper William John the Cloth Hall – its belfry tower standing The Australian, Australia Young – survived the war and I’m now in sentinel over the town below – is now the corner of Belgium where, 100 years ago, home to the In Flanders Field Museum, he was seriously wounded during a battleNews one•ofArticle three standout in the Author: Ross McMullin • Section: General typemuseums : News Item that serves as a byword for the horrors of area, along with the Memorial Museum of Classification : National • Audience : 96,602 • Page: 11 • Printed Size: 1587.00cm² the Western Front – Passchendaele.

Passchendaele in nearby Zonnebeke and 500,000Australia men were killed Market: National •Around Country: • or ASR: AUD 32,071 • Words: 2042 the privately-owned Hooge Crater Museum. injured on both sides in the cloying Leaving the exhibits in search of the Item ID: 850079663 Flanders mud during three-and-a-half battlefields they depict, my first stop is brutal months in 1917, when blood and rain Essex Farm on the outskirts of Ypres, one of soaked the trenches. more than 150 war cemeteries that dot the For those colossal losses, the front line surrounding area. moved a mereYou five miles.

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It was here in 1915, overlooking the grave

DAVID YOUNG

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shellfire and left in ruins. The name Passchendaele became for ever associated with the war during the Third Battle of Ypres, fought to the east of the town between July 31 and November 10, 1917.

The story is told in the In Flanders Fields Museum in the Cloth Hall, rebuilt after being reduced to rubble in the war.

T

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teams were detonated, obliterating German positions.

SITE 12 4TH AUSTRALIAN British, New Zealand and

DIVISION MEMORIAL, BELLENGLISE, FRANCE

Australian troops, who had

Between September 18 and 20, endured a gas attack4th in 1918, the 48th Battalion, Ploegsteert in theitsopening Division of theWood AIF, fought last successful moments of action what became on the known Western Front. Advancing on took as the Battle of Messines, the Outpost theHindenburg devastated ridge. Line near Bellenglise, the division The battle cost 6000 Australian took more than 4300 prisoners casualties.

At the edge of the for 1260 casualties. wood is Toronto Avenue The division’s memorial in Cemetery, exclusively France is highan above Bellenglise.

Tyne Cot is the biggest British SOURCES: AUSTRALIAN Australian burial ground. The WAR MEMORIAL; and Commonwealth war DEPARTMENT OF VETERANS’ AFFAIRS. stories are told at the Plugstreet cemetery in the world. There are ...............................................................................

14-18 Experience interpretive For further details: 11,953 headstones of men killed centre. ww1westernfront.gov.au or who died of wounds in the defence of Ypres between 1914 SITE 4 VC CORNER and 1918. On October 4, 1917, the AUSTRALIAN CEMETERY AND cemetery was part of the battle MEMORIAL, FROMELLES, of Broodseinde Ridge. The Great The Australian National Memorial FRANCE Cross in the cemetery sits on the at Villers-Bretonneux.

Fromelles, the first major battle Picture: Chris Manly remains of a German concrete fought by Australian troops on bunker which was captured by the Western Front, began when the 3rd Australian Division. the 5th Australian and 61st In the muddy countryside British divisions attacked on around the town of July 19, 1916, meeting heavy 25 Apr 2017 Passchendaele in October 1917 resistance from German the Australians lostWest 6673Australian, dead. Perth machinegunners. Devoid of The story is told in a visitors’ Author: MALCOLM QUEKETT flanking support and subjected Section: Supplements • Article type : News Item centre at the cemetery and :in the • Page: 4 • •Printed Audience 153,763 Size: 1854.00cm²they • Market: WA to fierce counterattacks, Memorial MuseumCountry: Australia • ASR: AUD 32,504 • Words: 1344 • Item ID: 763605662 were forced to withdraw.

Passchendaele 1917, in nearby The Australians suffered 5533 Zonnebeke. casualties, the British 1547. The Licensed by Copyright Agency. attack You may only was aorcomplete ina licence. copy communicate failure this work with SITE 3 TORONTO AVENUE what was the most costly 24CEMETERY, PLOEGSTEERT hour period in Australia’s war

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VICTORY OUT OF THE MIRE

Final salute to heroic

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Diggers of Polygon

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WOOD, BELGIUM

Before dawn on June 7, 1917, explosives packed under German trenches by tunnelling

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Flanders One man’s pilgrimage to the fields where his grandfather’s life changed for ever

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HE old soldier’s voice cracks as he reaches the final line of a verse synonymous with the fallen. The veteran pauses and bows his head, momentarily obscuring his taut face beneath a pristine navy beret, before concluding poet Laurence Binyon’s emotive stanza.

“At the going down of the sun and in the morning, we will remember them.”

He is surrounded by crowds, yet the pensioner strikes a solitary figure beneath the neoclassical arches of Ypres’ Menin Gate, his grandfather’s medal pinned to his left breast, as he honours a man he never got the chance to meet.

Moments earlier three volunteer buglers from the local fire station had played a haunting rendition of the Last Post – the notes drifting out towards Flanders Fields, as they have done every evening, apart from the years of Nazi occupation, since 1928.

“I was moved, really moved,” the retired corporal admits, as we chat at the close of a nightly act of remembrance that draws hundreds of thousands of visitors every year. “My grandfather died in the first war.

That was for him.”

My trip, like his, is personal.

My grandfather – Sapper William John Young – survived the war and I’m now in the corner of Belgium where, 100 years ago, he was seriously wounded during a battle that serves as a byword for the horrors of the Western Front – Passchendaele.

Around 500,000 men were killed or injured on both sides in the cloying Flanders mud during three-and-a-half brutal months in 1917, when blood and rain soaked the trenches.

For those colossal losses, the front line moved a mere five miles.

This year the centenary is being marked by a range of ceremonies, exhibitions and events across what is now a rural idyll.

The fight for Passchendaele village was but one of a series of major conflagrations on the Ypres Salient through the course of the war – four years that saw countless perish for a stretch of land you could now traverse in a brisk morning walk.

The Commonwealth forces alone lost 185,000 lives in the area between 1914 and 1918. The names of 55,000 whose bodies were never found are engraved on the white Portland-stone walls of the Menin Gate.

Another 48,000 missing are listed on two other memorials in the area.

Before I retrace my grandfather’s steps over the hills where so many still lie, lost to the earth upon which they fell, I leave the shadow of the Menin Gate to venture further into Ypres – a town resurrected from the ashes of war.

Obliterated by shell bombardment, the

task of piecing Ypres back together began in 1918 – and it would be 50 years until it was complete. Turning slowly as I scan the mix of late medieval, Renaissance and Gothic facades that surround the cobbled main square, it is staggering to think it’s all a 20th-century construct.

One of the most impressive rebuilds, the Cloth Hall – its belfry tower standing sentinel over the town below – is now home to the In Flanders Field Museum, one of three standout museums in the area, along with the Memorial Museum of Passchendaele in nearby Zonnebeke and the privately-owned Hooge Crater Museum.

Leaving the exhibits in search of the battlefields they depict, my first stop is Essex Farm on the outskirts of Ypres, one of more than 150 war cemeteries that dot the surrounding area.

It was here in 1915, overlooking the grave

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Stretcher-bearers walk through Polygon Wood

AUSTRALIAN AUSTRALIAN WAR WAR MEMORIAL MEMORIAL

‘Pompey’ Elliott’s acumen at Polygon Wood helped to further Allied success ROSS McMULLIN

A notable ceremony concerning World War I will occur today in Belgium. It will commemorate Australia’s contribution at the Western Front in 1917, which remains our worst year since European settlement.

The Australian Imperial Force endured more casualties in 1917 than in any other year of this or any other war.

Severe AIF casualties accumulated at numerous terrible battles in 1917, including Bullecourt, Messines, Menin Road, Broodseinde and Passchendaele. But the battle chosen for the official Australian commemoration was the one that began 100 years ago yesterday at Polygon Wood and became a seminal Australian victory.

Assessments of Polygon Wood

have sometimes portrayed it as a relatively straightforward affair.

According to these appraisals, the operation from a macro perspective basically went according to plan: a superlative barrage paved the way for a successful advance, the few minor hiccups that arose were quickly resolved, and the battle proved to be a sweeping victory for the attackers.

But such conclusions are flawed. They don’t allow sufficiently for the difficulties on the right of the attack. What happened there constituted more than a minor hiccup.

Polygon Wood was planned as the second of a series of step-bystep battles east of Ypres. An assault by four Australian brigades was to be launched on September 26, 1917, with advances by British brigades on both flanks.

On the right of the attack, with the most difficult task, was the 15th AIF Brigade commanded by

Brigadier-General Harold “Pompey” Elliott, who became Australia’s most famous fighting general.

The operation was to be carried out in two phases. In Elliott’s brigade, this would involve an initial advance by the 60th Battalion to an objective on the eastern side of the wood (the red line), followed by a subsequent advance by the 57th and 59th battalions to the ultimate objective (the blue line).

But the Germans realised what was coming and sought to disrupt these plans with a pre-emptive attack. On September 25, 100 years ago yesterday, they unleashed a bombardment of exceptional force on the 15th Brigade and the 98th British Brigade alongside.

British intelligence later concluded that German artillery concentration had never been greater.

The unit occupying the front line in the 15th Brigade’s sector, the 58th Battalion (led by Major Neil Freeman, Geelong’s fullback in the VFL), had never endured such ferocious shellfire. The 58th stood firm despite severe losses, but the adjacent British battalion was driven back. Advancing Germans

poured into the gap.

Freeman’s 58th, increasingly exposed on their right, hung on despite growing casualties. But their situation became more and more precarious, and they requested reinforcements. Elliott sent forward part of the 60th. It was supposed to be spearheading the attack in 20 hours, but Elliott concluded that there would be no attack at all unless this German incursion was repulsed.

The devastating enemy barrage continued to crash down. The Germans knew the exact location of the various AIF headquarters and strong points because they had previously occupied these positions themselves. The difficulties for Elliott and his men were exacerbated by the repeated claims of the 98th British Brigade that they had regained their frontline when the 58th officers on the spot kept

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OHAN Vandewalle doesn’t believe in ghosts.

But he knows what he saw late one night in the moonlight illuminating the war cemetery at Polygon Wood in Belgium.

Thirty Australian soldiers, in slouch hats and their World War I dress uniforms. They’d been dead for almost 100 years, Vandewalle knows.

But here they were, appearing to him as a vision, in a misty cemetery at midnight.

“Sometimes you have to be careful talking about this,’’ V d ll f th

Vandewalle that he went to Australia to meet the soldier’s family, and learned the history of how this young man came to be buried with such obvious care, decades before.

“I told the soldier ‘I will find 20 Sep 2017 f t t ’ ’’ h id Herald Sun, Melbourne Author: Mat Mclachlan • Section: General News • Article type : News Item Classification : Capital City Daily • Audience : 316,499 • Page: 20 Printed Size: 829.00cm² • Market: VIC • Country: Australia • ASR: AUD 46,031 Words: 954 • Item ID: 846952195 Licensed by Copyright Agency. You may only copy or communicate this work with a licence.

“It’s my passion. I grew up on the battlefields.’’

The battle of Polygon Wood, 8km from the Belgian town of Ypres, ran from September 26 to October 3, 1917, and while it ultimately rell d th G f th

Proud legacy, terrible burden

when he was fatally wounded in the first advance on September 26.

Jim dragged him away from the line of fire, and afterwards, buried him with great care and love, promising to ret f hi

MAT McLACHLAN

n Wood in 1917.

ELLA PELLEGRINI

nd many walked tive trail through where the bloody on September 26, g at the Austra-

lian and German front lines to pay respects.

During the spine-tingling walk, faces of the fallen were projected onto the trees, ac-

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The farmlands of Belgium are dotted with the graves and cemeteries of fallen Australian soldiers. Near a spot called Polygon Wood one man has found an affinity with the stories of these men from afar and won’t let them be forgotten, writes ELLEN WHINNETT.

Herald, The (Glasgow) {Magazine}

Tyne Cot Cemetery in Belgium is the biggest British and Commonwealth war cemetery in the world.

DAVID YOUNG

Licensed by Copyright Agency. You may only copy or communicate this work with a licence.

Article Page 2 of 2

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HE Menin Gate Memorial stands triumphantly in the Belgian town of Ypres. At first glance, it resembles the dozens of other arches scattered across Europe — its soaring columns and vaulted archway commemorating a longago victory over a forgotten foe.

But unlike the Arc de Triomphe and the Brandenburg Gate, this memorial speaks as much about loss as it does about victory. Etched into its walls are the names of more than 54,000 British and

Commonwealth soldiers missing from the horrific battles of World War I that raged around Ypres.

As I walked through the memorial, scanning the seemingly endless lists of names of boys from Bournemouth and Bristol, from Cape Town and Calcutta, I came to the Australian section.

Of the more than 6000 names here, a fraction of the 20,000 Aussies who fell in these fields in 1917, two stood out: GL and TR SEABROOK. It’s an unusual name, and the two located side by side surely couldn’t be a coincidence. A bit of research revealed that it wasn’t and told a story of grief that today is nearly impossible to comprehend.

George and Theo Seabrook were the oldest sons of William and Fanny Seabrook of Petersham, inner Sydney. They joined up in 1916 with their younger brother, William, and all three boys were

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ZONNEBEKE, BELGIUM OHAN Vandewalle doesn’t believe in ghosts.

But he knows what he saw one night three years ago, in the moonlight illuminating the war cemetery at Polygon Wood in Belgium.

Thirty Diggers, in slouch hats and dress uniforms. They’d been dead for almost 100 years, Vandewalle knows.

But here they were, in a misty cemetery at midnight.

“Sometimes you have to be careful talking about this,’’ Vandewalle says.

“People think you are an idiot. But Flanders is like this.

“It is full of secrets.” delighted to be allocated to the He is speaking from the front bar same battalion, the 17th. ofarrived his pub 1km down the road from By 1917 they had on the Western Front and they could tell the Buttes New British Cemetery, the that something big was in the air. final resting The British were planning to breakplace for 2108 Commonwealth soldiers, many of out of the Ypres Salient, the ring of trenches that hadthem hemmed in buried without a name.

Ypres since the earliest days of the Thisgoing Tuesday, September 26, war, and the Aussies were to play a big part in the attack.the On centenary of the bloody marks September 20, 100 years ago today, the 17th Battalion joined thousands of troops from Australia, Britain and New Zealand in an attack along the Menin Road.

For the Seabrook boys, it would be their first and last battle.

We don’t know exactly what happened to George and Theo — one account says they were killed by the same shell.

The upshot is that they went into the attack but never came out and were both listed as wounded, then missing, then dead. William

battle of Polygon Wood, a terrible clash between German and Allied forces that claimed the lives of 5700 young Australians.

The battle tore the ground apart, flattened every tree and churned the fields to a filthy sea of mud and gore.

A century on, the peaceful farmland and streets around Zonnebeke mask the whereabouts of thousands of unknown soldiers who still lie beneath the fields — soldiers Vandewalle, a farmer and publican, has dedicated his adult life to finding and identifying.

“It’s my passion,” Vandewalle, 56, says. “I grew up on the battlefields.’’

The battle of Polygon Wood, 8km from Ypres, ran from September 26 to October 3 and, while the Germans were ultimately repelled, the toll on both sides was horrific.

Many of those who fell were hastily buried close to the front line.

Over the years, their remains have

continued to be found, often by accident through earthmoving and construction works. When they are, Vandewalle, an amateur archaeologist, is called in to assist.

“My last soldier was an Australian, on Anzac Day, 2013. He is still an unknown soldier,’’ he says.

Five of these soldiers, brought to light in 2006, have had such a profound impact on him that he dreams about them at night. The Zonnebeke Five were found when workers were laying a gas pipeline under the road 1.5km away from Vandewalle’s pub, Café De Dreve.

They were taken to the cemetery at Polygon Wood and reburied with full military honours.

Two have been identified: Sergeant George Calder, from Victoria, and Private John Hunter, from Queensland, whose identity was confirmed by DNA tests in 2006.

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2018 ZONDER EINDE WITHOUT ENDING

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2018 Toen op 11 november 1918 de wapenstilstand werd getekend, stopte het oorlogsgeweld. Zal honderd jaar later de herdenking van de Groote Oorlog dan stilvallen? Of heeft herdenken juist aan kracht en relevantie gewonnen door de grondige en veelvuldige confrontatie met de geschiedenis van de Groote Oorlog de voorbije jaren?

wekkende manier herdenken ze de 600.000 WO I-slachtoffers op Belgische bodem. Even duidelijk is de boodschap dat het verdere lot van de wereld en de herdenking in handen ligt van de huidige en komende generaties.

CWxRM is ook het thema van de voorjaarscampagne van Toerisme Vlaanderen. We bereiken 3,8 miljoen video views op Facebook en meer dan 51.000 link clicks.

De beeldjes van ‘Coming World x Remember me’ worden samengebracht in een landschapskunstwerk. Op indruk-

Troost en hoop zijn ook de kernwoorden in de tentoonstelling ‘Healing’ in Poperinge.

/ Coming World x Remember Me, Palingbeek, Ieper / Coming World x Remember Me, Palingbeek, Ypres

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When the ceasefire was signed on 11 November 1918, the war came to an end. Will the commemoration of the Great War fall silent 100 years later?

Or has the commemoration gained power and relevance due to the frequent and intensive confrontation with the history of the Great War over the past few years?

The images of ‘Coming World x Remember me’ are united in a land art installation. This is an impressive way to remember the 600,000 WW1 victims who drew their last breath on Belgian soil. It also testifies that the world’s future - and the commemoration lie in the hands of present and future generations.

CWxRM is also the theme of VISITFLANDERS’ spring campaign. We reach 3,8 million video views on Facebook and more than 51,000 link clicks.

Comfort and hope are the key words in the ‘Healing’ exhibition held in Poperinge.

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MET DE KLAS

IN CLASS

Zal WO I ook betekenis blijven houden voor de generaties van morgen? Vele scholen programmeren een bezoek aan de Westhoek als een deel van de geschiedenislessen en/of maatschappijleer en/of vredesopvoeding. Twee workshops voor educatieve touroperatoren uit UK, Ierland en Australië garanderen dat de vraag en het aanbod op dit vlak zo goed als mogelijk op mekaar afgestemd blijven. Een samenwerking tussen Peace Village, Westtoer en Toerisme Vlaanderen.

Will WW1 remain significant for the generations of tomorrow? Many schools schedule visits to the Westhoek as part of the educational programmes they run on history, social studies and/or peace studies. Two workshops for educational tour operators from the UK, Ireland and Australia guarantee that supply and demand in this sector will remain more or less harmonised. A collaboration between Peace Village, Westtoer and VISITFLANDERS.

Op ANZAC day 2018 opent de Australische overheid het Sir John Monash Center in Noord-Frankrijk. Dit gloednieuw bezoekerscentrum moet de focus worden voor Australiërs die het Westelijk Front bezoeken. Het Department of Veterans Affairs van Australië vraagt aan Toerisme Vlaanderen om zowel een persreis bij de opening als een trade-trip later op het jaar te organiseren.

On ANZAC day 2018, the Australian government opens the Sir John Monash Centre in Northern France. This brand new visitor centre will be the focus point for Australians visiting the Western Front. The Department of Veterans Affairs in Australia asks VISITFLANDERS to organise a press visit for the opening as well as a trade trip later in the year.

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/ Memorial Museum Passchendaele, 1917, Zonnebeke

/ In Flanders Fields Museum, Ieper / In Flanders Fields Museum, Ypres

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NEVER THE LAST LAST POST

NEVER THE LAST LAST POST

De laatste digitale actie tijdens ‘100 Jaar Groote Oorlog’ geeft het woord aan de vele mensen in Vlaanderen die de herdenking voeden en mogelijk maken: archeologen, onderzoekers, de klaroenblazers van The Last Post, het personeel van de CWGC, vrijwilligers,… Ze maken duidelijk dat zij ook na 2018 hun engagement verder zetten. De herdenking stopt niet, het is ‘Never the last Last Post’…

The last digital activity during the Great War Centenary gives the floor floor to the many people in Flanders who support and facilitate the commemoration: archaeologists, researchers, those who sound The Last Post, the staff of the CWGC, volunteers, and so on. They make it clear that their engagement will continue after 2018. The commemoration will not end, it is ‘Never the last Last Post’…

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“THANK YOU

FOR YOUR FACEBOOK PAGE”

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VERANTWOORDELIJKE UITGEVER RESPONSIBLE PUBLISHER Peter De Wilde, VisitFlanders Grasmarkt 61, 1000 Brussels, Belgium

WETTELIJK DEPOT LEGAL DEPOSIT D/2018/5635/22/1/4

WWW.FLANDERSFIELDS1418.COM WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/FLANDERSFIELDS1418 WWW.TWITTER.COM/FLANDERSWW1

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COPYRIGHT BEELDMATERIAAL COPYRIGHT IMAGES AWM , Copper Tree Media, CWRM, Eric Compernolle, Henk Deleu, In Flanders Fields Museum, IWM, Jan Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Hondt_BAD, Koen Vanmechelen, Kris Jacobs, Last Post Association, Margaux Capoen Stad Ieper, Memorial Museum Passchendaele 1917, Michael Depestele, Milo Profi, Sivan Askayo , Stadsarchief Diksmuide, Talbot House, Toerisme Poperinge, Westtoer APB, Wilfriend Manhaeve HR, HIPPO.WAR Waregem, Rene Matton, ComingWorldRememberMe, Bruno Vandermeulen, Museum aan de IJzer, VisitFlanders.

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