FOOD

Strang Hall and the Rise of Downtown Overland Park.

Emily Lane: A great culinary movement is sweeping the nation with roots in the great bazaars and markets of old. The modern food hall is an interpretation of an ancient concept, and Strang Hall in Downtown Overland Park captures the spirit of the short line that connects community and food. Named for William B. Strang Jr., a railroad magnate who founded and developed Overland Park, this new addition to the downtown Overland Park landscape has been an instant hit.

Stewart Lane: Strang Hall is my dream, a collection of incredible chefs in a small area offering delicious cuisine from around the world with unique styles and stories. Whether you feel like sushi, tacos, pizza, or all-American comfort, they have you covered with top-notch cocktails and craft beers to keep the party going. We honestly could not decide what to eat, and, luckily, we did not have to choose. Emily and I created our own progressive dinner, eating our way around the globe from a barstool with a cocktail in our hands.

Chef Brett Dehart has a long list of culinary accomplishments (notably “Best Burger in Utah 2016” and final four contender for North American Chef of the Year) and has two concepts in the hall, Fénix and Tora Zushi. Never one for convention, Chef Dehart creates new and bold flavors with familiar ingredients and unique pairings. At Fénix, we went for a sampler featuring Pastor, eight-hour roast pork, sweet onions, and pineapple slaw; Hot Chicken, a take on the Nashville chicken sandwich with a crispy and juicy beer-battered chicken breast, fresh jalapenos, melted cheese, shredded cabbage, and a barbecue salsa; and the Costilla, shredded beef shortrib with tart, pickled red onions, crumbled cotija cheese, and a vibrant cilantro pesto. From tortilla to toppings, each bite was an expression of Chef Brett’s culinary vision and talent. Then you can walk over to Tora Zushi, and chase the tacos with The Boss Roll, tempura-fried tuna, salmon, and yellowtail; and the Strang Roll, tempura-fried crab and cream cheese, topped with avocado slices, tuna, minced cucumber, tobiko, and a yuzu togarashi aioli finished with a smoked ponzu sauce, to start your Strang Hall food experience.

EL: Depending on your appetite, you could stop your meal right there (but, don’t worry, we didn’t), and Stewart has more mouthwatering food descriptions to share. Even if you pop over just for a quick lunch, you’re sure to recharge your batteries sitting on the lawn of Strang Hall enjoying the community that’s been created there. It makes me think about community in the greater context of downtown Overland Park, and how food is really at the core of its identity, with locally owned restaurants, the farmers’ market, and the culinary center, all located between 78th and 83rd streets off Metcalf Ave.

SL: As Emily suggests, we didn’t stop at the first two places. Chef Anourom Thomson has an incredible story. From refugee to head chef and owner, he brings the gastronomic stories of his culture to our tables. Anousone features Laotian fare that is anything but standard. Curries, steamed buns, noodles, and banh mi sandwiches feature along side tuna poke, adobo ribs, and fried Brussels sprouts in a sweet chili herb sauce. Vivacious, playful, and delicious are the best ways to describe Chef Anourom’s dishes. I dived into the stir-fry noodles, with sauteed bell peppers onions, napa cabbage and fresh herbs, heavily

studded with crispy, yet juicy, pork-belly bites, while Emily savored the steamed buns with slaw, fast pickled cucumbers, scallions, and three-spice hoisin sauce with-sauteed beef.

Chef Erin Basset is everything the hospitality industry strives to be. She’s done nonprofit work, providing meals to those in need, vocational culinary training, and is driven by a desire to showcase the best produce from local-owner farmers. Solstice is her embodiment of that vision. The Apple Crunch Salad, tender spinach, Maytag blue cheese, walnut brittle, cranberry, shaved fennel, and a tart-cider vinaigrette is a perfect balance of savory and sweet that kept us diving in for more. We had to try the Fried Cauliflower, soft, yet crispy, florets affectionately seasoned and finished with lemon and parsley with a sumac yogurt dipping sauce. Each bite was lively and bright, with a fantastic mix of textures that were complemented by the sauce. As the seasons change, so will the menu at Solstice, almost making me look forward to winter!

EL: And that brings up another interesting part of Strang Hall – it’s ever changing. At the time of this writing, we know that more concepts are coming to keep things fresh, so your visits to Strang Hall will never be identical. The rotating food hall is foolproof against falling into a food rut.

SL: Let’s round out the evening. Norcini, or “butchers” in Italian, is a tribute to the great meat cutters from the old country. Cured and roasted meats highlight the menu, with the star of the show being the pizzas made on a crust of 72-hour cold-fermented dough and sandwiches piled high with exceptional imported and domestic cuts. Classic pizza flavor combinations like the Incendio, mozzarella, basil, chili flake, garlic, blistered tomatoes, salsa rossa, and EVOO, mixed with inventive creations such as the Crab Rangoon, sweet chili, cream cheese crab filling, mozzarella, green onion, and Calabrian chili. We dived into the

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Italiano, featuring Tuscan sopressata, mozzarella, peppadew peppers, green olives, artichokes, and salsa rossa. The crust was the ethereal combination of chewy and soft with the perfect amount of char.

And finally, Chef Eli B. Neal has Midwest flavors and charm in his blood. Through a life of midwestern adventures and the influence of his Great Granny Thelma, he has honed a modern American menu that creates the best versions of Americana classics. Chef Eli does not mess around with his sandwiches: chicken-fried steak with black-pepper aioli, lettuce, tomatoes, and pickles, or his catfish po’boy with wheat-beer-battered catfish nestled in a soft bun with all the fixings and house-made remoulade. We could not say no to the Fried Chicken Sandwich, featuring citrus-brined fried chicken breast and accented with thick slice of tomato, pickles, and the house special sauce. It was served with thick-cut fries that were crispy, golden and fluffy inside and tossed with house seasoning.

EL: After recovering from our indulgent adventure in food hall dining, I spoke with a few friends who are regulars at Strang Hall, asking them why they return again and again, and they had similar responses. They love the variety of places to dine through the food market concept and the atmosphere that suits everything from date night to lunch with the kids, but, more than anything, they echoed the sentiment of loving what it has done for downtown Overland Park.

I couldn’t agree more with that last statement. I think back on how much downtown Overland Park has grown and changed in the past decade, with new eateries, impressive new living spaces, all while maintaining the quaint downtown with small businesses we’ve known for years. Not to mention for potential residents, this is one of the most affordable and up-and-coming areas of Johnson County. We hope you find some time to check out Strang Hall and all downtown Overland Park has to offer.

Strang Hall, located at 7313 W. 80th St. in downtown Overland Park, is open Tuesday through Sunday. For detailed hours and more information, please visit stranghall.com.

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

Emily & Stewart Lane are Kansas City natives who have an affection for hospitality. Stewart, a former executive chef, makes his career at SMG and loves to cook for friends and family, and Emily manages community impact and philanthropy at JE Dunn Construction. Along with their daughters, Evie and Catharine, they live a life filled with food, culture, and creativity.