Arroyo February 2019

FINE LIVING IN THE GREATER PASADENA AREA

February 2019

UNUSUAL DINING EXPERIENCES FUN FEASTS FROM THE CHINESE GARDEN TO THE ATHANAEUM

DINER MADNESS The Altadena Area Morphs into A Mecca for Diner Fans

WINE WITH WINGS And Other Trends For Oenophiles

JERVEY TERVALON ON WHITMORE RARE BOOKS

A Book Lovers’ Paradise Opens in Old Pasadena

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arroyo VOLUME 15 | NUMBER 02 | FEBRUARY 2019

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27

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DINING 10 UNUSUAL DINING EXPERIENCES Arroyoland is brimming with intriguing options for adventurous foodies.

—By FRIER MCCOLLISTER

27 THERE IS NOTHING FINER THAN AN ALTADENA DINER Altadena’s Little Red Hen and Fox’s Restaurant and nearby Millie’s Café in Pasadena have turned the area into a destination for diner aficionados.

—By MICHAEL CERVIN

PHOTOS: (top) Hannah Katalbas; (bottom left and right) Michael Cervin

30 WINE WITH WINGS AND OTHER TRENDS FOR OENOPHILES Look for drone delivery, canned vintages and a wine mecca relatively close to home.

—By MICHAEL CERVIN

34 A BIBLIOPHILE’S PARADISE Dan Whitmore channeled his passion for literature into Pasadena’s new Whitmore Rare Books.

—By JERVEY TERVALON

DEPARTMENTS 09

FESTIVITIES HBO Golden Globes party, LACC welcomes a new artistic director

18

ARROYO HOME SALES INDEX

37

KITCHEN CONFESSIONS Celebrating a Frozen February

38

ARROYO COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH Cappuccino with a Kick

39

THE LIST Bonsai-a-thon at the Huntington, Ragtime at the Pasadena Playhouse and more

ABOUT THE COVER: Maple Pancakes, photo courtesy of Maple at Descanso Gardens 02.19 ARROYO | 5

EDITOR’S NOTE

For this Dining Issue, we look past the usual suspects to some unusual ones — under-the-radar places in Arroyoland that serve up a singular dining experience. Frier McCollister introduces you to eateries surrounded by lush vegetation (Maple at Descanso and The Huntington’s Freshwater Noodle and Dumpling House) or stately tradition (The Athaneum). Or how about a private dinner featuring an innovative chef’s latest culinary experiments, limited only by his imagination? Check out McCollister’s “Unusual Dining Experiences” on page 10.

Arroyo cocktail columnist Michael Cervin writes that the Altadena area is becoming a hotspot for American diner culture, with three casual eateries — both new and super-old (in SoCal time, anyway). Of course, diners are one place where being old is a plus. The Little Red Hen is still going strong after 60 years, 50 of them under the ownership of the Shay family, making it one of Altadena’s oldest black-owned businesses. Fox’s Restaurant is another institution there, although it has recently been bought and remodeled in the nouvelle-diner style — offering retro charm and a chef-crafted menu.

Ditto Millie’s, a 92-year-old Silver Lake restaurant that opened another branch nearby in Pasadena last November.

Cervin also reports on some intriguing wine-industry trends, such as wine delivery by drone (not yet, but be patient), Paso Robles’ emergence as a winery mecca and canned fine wine. Having mastered wine quality and sustainability, the industry is looking at convenience in innovations targeted at oenophiles. I’ll clink cans to that!

—Irene Lacher

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Irene Lacher ART DIRECTOR Stephanie Torres ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR Richard Garcia PRODUCTION DESIGNERS Rochelle Bassarear EDITOR-AT-LARGE Bettijane Levine COPY EDITOR John Seeley CONTRIBUTORS Leslie Bilderback, Léon Bing, Martin Booe, Michael Cervin, Scarlet Cheng, Richard Cunningham, Noela Hueso, Kathleen Kelleher, Frier McCollister, Brenda Rees, Ilsa Setziol, John Sollenberger, Nancy Spiller ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Lisa Chase, Alexandra Valdes ADVERTORIAL CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Bruce Haring HUMAN RESOURCES MANAGER Andrea Baker PAYROLL Linda Lam ACCOUNTING Perla Castillo, Yiyang Wang, Quinton Wright OFFICE MANAGER Ann Turrietta PUBLISHER Dina Stegon 6 | ARROYO | 02.19

arroyo

FINE LIVING IN THE GREATER PASADENA AREA

SOUTHLAND PUBLISHING V.P. OF OPERATIONS David Comden PRESIDENT Bruce Bolkin CONTACT US ADVERTISING dinas@pasadenaweekly.com EDITORIAL editor@arroyomonthly.com PHONE (626) 584-1500 FAX (626) 795-0149 MAILING ADDRESS 50 S. De Lacey Ave., Ste. 200, Pasadena, CA 91105 ArroyoMonthly.com ©2019 Southland Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved.

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FESTIVITIES Billy, Peggy and Brian Butchkavitz

George Reardon, John Andrews, Patty Jausoro, and Janet Wells

Patricia Clarkson (right)

PHOTOS: Gabor Ekecs (HBO); Jamie Pham (LACC)

Candice Bergen

Pasadena event designer Billy Butchkavitz’s team warmed up the chilly evening of HBO’s popular Golden Globes Awards afterparty Jan. 6 by transforming the Beverly Hilton’s Circa 55 poolside restaurant into a winter garden. Butchkavitz, who travels the world for global inspiration, encased the space — carpet, textiles, furniture and wall projection — in custom-made chartreuse-and-white materials evoking midcentury modern Danish design. Also custommade was the dance floor over the pool, where Big Little Lies director Jean-Marc Vallée boogied amid Hollywood A-listers including Globe winners Patricia Clarkson (Sharp Objects), Mahershala Ali (Green and Patricia Arquette (Escape from Dannemora), Capt. Beverley Bass Sandra TsingBook) Loh as well as Constance Wu (Crazy Rich Asians), Barbara Davis, Emma Stone, Candice Bergen and many more… The Los Angeles Children’s Chorus welcomed its new artistic director, Fernando Malvar-Ruiz — only the third LACC artistic director in the Pasadenabased chorus’s 33-year history — at a Dec. 6, 2018, reception at The Athanaeum at Caltech. Board Chair Kai Ryssdal was host to a crowd of friends and supporters including former LACC CEO Terry Knowles and Marshall Rutter, Rachel Fine, Karen Song and John Lee, Elaine Ahmad, Rashmi Bansal and David Haupt, Holger and Elizabeth Besch, Andrea Bland, Nancy Chalifour, Sally and Robert Neely, Judi and Bryant Danner, Sarah and Steve Deschenes, Lisa Hilger and James Gallo, Helen Spitzer, Saeed Jaffer, Patty Jausoro and John Andrews, Andrea Willard, Becky and Peter Knell, Dianna Lau, Jena Liddy, Alison Lifland, Dianne Magee, Andrea Patzakis, George Reardon, Jennifer C. Terry, Lora Unger, Janet Wells and Brian Ledahl.

Constance Wu (left) and Jimmy O. Yang (right)

Elaine Ahmad and Andrea Bland

Kai Ryssdal and Fernando Malvar-Ruiz

Brian Ledahl and Helen Spitzer 02.19 | ARROYO | 9

UNUSUAL DINING EXPERIENCES

From dim sum at the Huntington’s Chinese Garden to prime rib at The Athenaeum, Arroyoland is brimming with intriguing options for adventurous foodies.

BY FRIER MCCOLLISTER

V

irtually any local al foodie fooodi diee ca can n te tell ll you you that tha hat SoCal hat SoCa SoC So Ca l has Cal has been ha be in in the midst of a dynamic and diverse dining boom in recent years. Indeed, I am not the only observer who is happy to declare the region the world’s currently reigning epicenter of food and dining. It’s a bold claim, but it’s not difficult to defend. From the highly conceptual, otherworldly tasting menu at Vespertine in Culver City to the tooth-pick lamb at Chengdu Taste in Alhambra, restaurants are combining attention to fresh, quality ingredients with an openness to experimentation bridging cultural traditions and techniques.

The possibilities seem endless.

Pasadena and its environs arrived somewhat belatedly to this raucous party, but there are now plenty of interesting options. From chef-centric innovation to authentic and obscure ethnic preparations, we have a wide variety of local culinary choices.

But what may still go unnoticed are off beat dining experiences that can only be had in our area and exist quite apart from the relative tumult of the restaurant scene.

You may need the right contacts and connections or just a good sense of timing, but the following culinary adventures can only be found right here in Arroyoland:

PHOTO: Wonho Frank Lee

–continued on page 13

Maple at Descanso Gardens 10 | ARROYO | 02.19

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Sampan Special

PHOTO: Hannah Katalbas

–continued from page 10

FRESHWATER DUMPLING AND NOODLE HOUSE The Huntington’s Chinese Garden One weekday morning a while back, my daughter and I were musing over breakfast possibilities. An enthusiast of the Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens (where I maintain a basic membership), she had already expressed interest in visiting going posted her interest in visiting. Having recently discovered the Huntington’s newly renovated dining options, I suggested we try the dim sum place at the Chinese Garden. By then, the Huntington’s dining program had been redesigned and relaunched by Border Grill’s Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken in conjunction with Kajsa Alger, Feniger’s collaborator in the now-defunct Mud Hen Tavern and Blue Window. Freshwater specifically showcases Alger’s influence.

Arriving about 11 a.m., we strolled past the stately gallery buildings and arrived at Freshwater Dumpling and Noodle just as it was opening at 11:30. (Reservations are not accepted.) We ordered chicken-chive dumplings in broth, soothing chicken congee and a bowl of Hunan cumin-beef noodles at the small enclosed stand and then found a table overlooking the small placid lake, latticed with pale white bridges and the swooping roofs of copper-tiled pavilions. From the blooming lotuses to the bordering sweep of willow trees, the surrounds are landscaped as luxuriously as the rest of this famous, expansive former estate. More important, we noted that we were completely alone. A stillness settled over the lake as we unwrapped our chopsticks and marveled at our good fortune. We had the dining pavilion and patio on the lake completely to ourselves as we sampled our delicious selections.

Granted, it was an otherwise random weekday morning before any lunch rush. On weekends and holidays, this is a wildly popular spot where you can often expect to wait 20 minutes to order and find a table (though the food arrives swiftly). If you have a spare weekday morning, plan to arrive fi rst thing and you just might experience a moment of idyllic dining solitude that can’t be found anywhere else.

The Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens is located at 1151 Oxford Rd., San Marino. Freshwater Dumpling and Noodle House hours are 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Wednesday through Monday. Call (626) 405-2100 or visit huntington.org.

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PHOTO: Courtesy of City of Hope

Smoked Salmon Toast

MAPLE Descanso Gardens Arroyoland is blessed with a profusion of lovely public gardens and parklands beyond the Huntington. From The Arboretum in Arcadia to Eaton Canyon to Descanso Gardens in La Caňada Flintridge, we have an impressive array of options for communing with nature. At Descanso, the onsite restaurant Maple offers culinary exploration along with a survey of the gardens’ flora in a recently renovated Craftsman farmhouse-style space.

Part of the Patina Group portfolio, Maple is typically open only for weekend brunch from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner service is occasional, with specially devised menus crafted throughout the year to correspond to seasonal garden displays and holidays, such as January’s annual Camellia Wine Dinner coinciding with the blossoming of Descanso’s signature blooms. The event featured a six-course dinner with custom wine pairings, and this month, Maple will host a Valentine’s Day dinner of wagyu beef and Maine lobster tail, among other entrees, from 5 to 9 p.m., and a Spring Blooms Wine Dinner on March 22. Additional upcoming dinners will be announced the website.

I attended a dinner celebrating Descanso’s Enchanted Forest of Light during the Christmas holiday season. Patina principal and San Marino resident Chef Joachim Splichal manned the stoves himself with Chef Philip Mack and recommended the whisky short rib entree, which was predictably velvety and delicious. Maple offers reliably imaginative menus in a beautiful natural refuge.

Descanso Gardens is located at 1418 Descanso Dr., La Caňada Flintridge.

Call (818) 949-4200 or visit mapleatdescanso.com

PHOTO:Courtesy of Maple

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PHOTO:Courtesy of Caltech

The Athenaeum at Caltech

THE ATHENAEUM California Institute of Technology A mere stroll away from the bustling laboratories at one of the world’s great research universities, The Athenaeum is the private dining club at the Caltech in Pasadena. You have to be a faculty member, employee, student or alum to obtain membership. If you don’t qualify and are otherwise unlikely to be granted admission as a freshman anytime soon, find some members and implore them to escort you as a guest to the prime-rib buffet, a Wednesday evening institution at the elegant and storied dining room.

The history of the rib buffet tradition now seems obscure. General Manager Marisu Jimenez said in an email, “I have been at the club for 25 years and the buffet has been at the club before my time. I do not know, unfortunately, how the prime rib night got started.” Chef Kevin Issacson, who has been at “The Ath” for the last 13 years, provides novelty to the well-worn Wednesday tradition while doing an admirable job of keeping all the regular lunch and dinner menus fresh.

The buffet is lavish. Besides the carving station and changing selection of side dishes and other entrees, there is a generous selection of salads and cheese plates, as well as a raw bar of fresh oysters, shrimp and crab legs. A sushi station features a selection of nigiri, rolls and sashimi as well as seaweed salad. A chef ’s specialty station changes weekly and might feature anything from customized risotto to pasta or mashed potatoes. The dessert bar includes a variety of pastries, cakes and pies as well as a bananas Foster station, where the dish is prepared to order, flambéed, of course.

Exclusive? Yes. An utterly unique local experience? Yes. Worth the trouble of stalking a hapless local scientist? Again, yes!

The Athenaeum is located at 551 S. Hill Ave., Pasadena. Call (626) 395-8200 or visit athaneaum.caltech.com.

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PHOTO: Courtesy of Onil Chibás

–continued from page 15

DELUXE 1717 TEST KITCHEN Pasadena Longtime observers of the local restaurant scene may recall the impressive run of Chef Onil Chibás at Elements and Elements Kitchen, a seven-year venture that pioneered true chef-centric cuisine next door to the Pasadena Playhouse, ultimately leading to Chibas’ recent experiment in catering and events. Last June, Chibas opened Deluxe 1717 on Washington Boulevard in Pasadena with the intention of maintaining his booming catering operations, while exploring the possibility of hosting or curating culinary events in the location’s storefront dining room and patio area.

“I don’t want to do a pop-up every month,” says Chibas, who lives in Garfield Heights. “It’s too much work.” What then?

“I’ve always had the idea for a cookbook club. Th is is supposed to be … my [culinary] home!” The dining room accommodates 16 guests and, with the ample kitchen in back, the space offers all sorts of creative possibilities. “I didn’t want it to be a restaurant. It’s me cooking… maybe four or five courses.” Chibas ‘philosophy?

“I tend to like rustic or homey fare presented elegantly. I call it Grandma Chic!”.

When can we join him at the table?

“I don’t know. Whenever I feel like it. It’s very capricious.”

So stay tuned to his website or pitch an idea yourself. The point is that one of the very best chefs in town has a test kitchen and dining room that promise some very unusual culinary moments.

Deluxe 1717 is located at 1717 Washington Blvd., Pasadena. Call (626) 818-3963 or visit chibasevents.com. |||| 02.19 | ARROYO | 17

arroyo

™

HOME SALES ABOVE $750,000

~HOM E SALES I N D EX~

0.01% ALHAMBRA Homes Sold Median Price Median Sq. Ft. ALTADENA Homes Sold Median Price Median Sq. Ft. ARCADIA Homes Sold Median Price Median Sq. Ft. EAGLE ROCK Homes Sold Median Price Median Sq. Ft. GLENDALE Homes Sold Median Price Median Sq. Ft. LA CAÑADA Homes Sold Median Price Median Sq. Ft. PASADENA Homes Sold Median Price Median Sq. Ft. SAN MARINO Homes Sold Median Price Median Sq. Ft. SIERRA MADRE Homes Sold Median Price Median Sq. Ft. SOUTH PASADENA Homes Sold Median Price Median Sq. Ft. TOTAL Homes Sold Avg Price/Sq. Ft.

DEC.’17 21 $640,00 1419 DEC.’17 19 $860,000 1492 DEC.’17 19 $1,060,000 1735 DEC.’17 11 $785,000 1537 DEC.’17 53 $760,000 1595 DEC.’17 6 $1,170,000 1714 DEC.’17 73 $820,000 1593 DEC.’17 6 $1,850,000 2207 DEC.’17 6 $771,500 1467 DEC.’17 1 $585,000 1263 DEC.’17 215 $570

2017

2018

source: CalREsource

HOMES SOLD

134

AVG. PRICE/SQ. FT.

Dec.

HOMES SOLD

-0.37%

Dec.

215

HOME SALES

DEC.’18 9 $693,000 1572 DEC.’18 14 $760,000 1425 DEC.’18 10 $1,168,250 2239 DEC.’18 7 $808000 1300 DEC.’18 17 $755,000 1537 DEC.’18 16 $1,500,000 2166 DEC.’18 46 $800,000 1607 DEC.’18 4 $2,475,000 3166 DEC.’18 2 $704,000 1264 DEC.’18 6 $818,500 1361 DEC.’18 134 $574

ADDRESS

CLOSE DATE

PRICE BDRMS. SQ. FT. YR. BUILTPREV. PRICE PREV. SOLD

ALHAMBRA 1501 South 2nd Street 12/31/18 $1,130,000 12/18/18 $830,000 423 South 8th Street 200 North Valencia Street 12/6/18 $770,000 ALTADENA 1487 Crest Drive 12/31/18 $2,525,000 12/4/18 $1,480,000 3851 Luna Court 3503 Giddings Ranch Road 12/4/18 $1,444,000 2060 Minoru Drive 12/19/18 $1,190,000 503 Royce Street 12/7/18 $875,000 1244 East Mendocino Street 12/4/18 $872,500 1691 Veranada Avenue 12/18/18 $770,000 549 Punahou Street 12/27/18 $750,000 ARCADIA 1145 Rancho Road 12/6/18 $4,080,000 12/27/18 $1,648,000 2517 El Capitan Avenue 600 Arbolada Drive 12/31/18 $1,550,000 2217 Canyon Road 12/6/18 $1,285,000 1400 Greenfield Avenue 12/7/18 $1,265,000 322 North 4th Avenue 12/27/18 $1,071,500 2310 Louise Avenue 12/6/18 $1,050,000 129 Eldorado Street #A-c 12/17/18 $948,000 523 South 5th Avenue #B 12/31/18 $869,000 2908 Ashmont Avenue 12/19/18 $820,000 EAGLE ROCK 4930 Argus Drive 12/20/18 $1,228,000 12/28/18 $830,000 1216 Oak Grove Drive 1111 Glen Arbor Avenue 12/28/18 $820,000 1163 Lanark Street 12/28/18 $808,000 5005 Townsend Avenue 12/31/18 $795,000 GLENDALE 905 South Chevy Chase Drive12/26/18 $1,650,000 12/27/18 $1,150,000 1900 Montecito Drive 2415 Canada Blvd.

12/31/18 $1,100,000 212 Jesse Avenue 12/18/18 $960,000 3653 Malafia Drive 12/31/18 $935,000 1819 Stanton Avenue 12/28/18 $925,000 1421 Wabasso Way 12/7/18 $903,000 460 West California Avenue #10112/18/18 $770,000 1020 Marion Drive 12/28/18 $755,000

3 3 2

2,296 1968 1258

1910 1915 1912

$840,000 $669,000 $580,000

9/29/17 6/16/16 5/30/14

3 5 5 3 4 3 2 2

4,542 3886 3348 1833 1926 1362 1959 1,243

1934 $1,835,000 1999 $1,064,000 1997 $1,330,000 1929 1926 $375,000 1957 $412,500 1940 1948 $385,000

2/12/18 7/30/08 3/20/17

5 4 3 3 5 3 2 5 3 6

5784 3,929 2,332 2018 2736 1,398 1271 2146 1,908 2783

1937 $3,900,000 $1,020,000 1951 $1,640,000 1959 $670,000 1960 1945 $265,000 1953 $890,000 1925 $928,000 2005 $710,000 1948 $620,000

2 4 2 3 2

1,300 2,101 780 1,317 2,000

1930 1947 1923 1950 1923

$767,000 $122,000 $755,000

1/9/18 11/1/85 4/7/16

8 5 4 4 3 4 3 3 2

3,254 2,395 2,388 2189 1,558 2,842 1537 1610 900

1945 1937 1937 1940 1955 1988 1958 2012 1962

$277,000

6/15/99

$250,000

10/17/01

$600,000 $400,000

3/11/14 7/18/11

6/27/13 4/25/02 6/11/02 2/8/13 1/6/04 5/15/14 6/17/03 11/1/91 8/31/17 7/31/18 11/3/08 10/20/10

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The Arroyo Home Sales Index is calculated from residential home sales in Pasadena and the surrounding communities of South Pasadena, San Marino, La Canada Flintridge, Eagle Rock, Glendale (including Montrose), Altadena, Sierra Madre, Arcadia and Alhambra. Individual home sales data provided by CalREsource. Arroyo Home Sales Index © Arroyo 2019. Complete home sales listings appear each week in Pasadena Weekly.

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–continued from page 18

HOME SALES ABOVE $750,000 source: CalREsource

ADDRESS

CLOSE DATE

PRICE BDRMS. SQ. FT. YR. BUILTPREV. PRICE PREV. SOLD

LA CAÑADA 1435 El Vago Street 12/28/18 $2,800,000 12/31/18 $2,800,000 2024 Orchard Lane 1251 Inverness Drive 12/19/18 $2,175,000 1930 Lombardy Drive 12/4/18 $2,095,000 2143 Sunnybank Drive 12/3/18 $1,995,000 4956 Alta Canyada Road 12/6/18 $1,833,000 4057 Dover Road 12/19/18 $1,650,000 5112 Alta Canyada Road 12/4/18 $1,528,000 4832 Del Monte Road 12/3/18 $1,472,000 5135 Crown Avenue 12/6/18 $1,350,000 4526 El Camino Corto 12/17/18 $1,210,000 5132 Crown Avenue 12/3/18 $1,020,000 4435 Alta Canyada Road 12/4/18 $920,000 2106 Tondolea Lane 12/3/18 $805,000 PASADENA 1870 San Pasqual Street 12/31/18 $4,000,000 12/17/18 $1,822,500 1759 Loma Vista Street 1400 Lida Street 12/26/18 $1,700,000 519 South Orange Grove Blvd. #10012/6/18$1,600,000 331 South Grand Oaks Avenue12/4/18 $1,575,000 2447 East Dudley Street 12/18/18 $1,300,000 1818 Navarro Avenue 12/27/18 $1,180,000 700 East Union Street #301 12/7/18 $1,170,000 250 South De Lacey Ave. #408a12/27/18$1,150,000 676 East California Blvd. 12/28/18 $1,111,500

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4 4 4 5 3 4 2 3 5 3 3 3 3 2

4,972 3,597 2688 2848 3170 2617 1900 3105 2341 1990 1686 1510 1654 1532

2009 1953 1975 1950 1954 1961 1950 1953 1950 1951 1947 1951 1949 1959

4 4 2 2 4 3 5 2 2 4

2,788 3447 1,896 3094 2832 1980 2,483 1740 1,710 1,864

1951 1928 1945 1988 1924 2016 1905 2006 2007 1922

$1,900,000

9/4/07

$1,528,000 $1,140,000 $1,055,000 $1,005,000 $490,000 $575,000 $1,060,000

10/2/17 8/24/11 8/30/05 9/11/15 12/9/02 10/8/03 5/18/18

$752,000 $1,500,000 $1,295,000 $1,000,000

4/28/98 5/19/14 5/16/07 6/16/00

$468,500 $850,000 $1,050,000 $958,000 $1,015,000

6/2/14 5/16/18 7/12/10 3/13/13 10/28/05

ADDRESS

CLOSE DATE

PRICE BDRMS. SQ. FT. YR. BUILTPREV. PRICE PREV. SOLD

PASADENA 1319 La Loma Road 12/20/18 $1,109,000 12/31/18 $1,075,000 27 South Grand Avenue 3715 Denair Street 12/4/18 $1,056,000 1000 South Euclid Avenue 12/19/18 $1,050,000 3605 Hampton Road 12/18/18 $1,025,000 1607 East Orange Grove Blvd.12/17/18 $960,000 332 Allendale Road #1 12/4/18 $935,000 78 North Arroyo Blvd.

12/27/18 $910,000 2346 Garfias Drive 12/6/18 $905,000 2360 Casa Grande Street 12/19/18 $885,000 270 Linda Rosa Avenue 12/4/18 $880,000 482 South Madison Avenue #212/17/18 $830,000 3696 Yorkshire Road 12/18/18 $810,000 1363 East Mountain Street 12/18/18 $810,000 768 North Madison Avenue 12/27/18 $800,000 2759 Butter Creek Drive 12/26/18 $785,000 SAN MARINO 719 Winston Avenue 12/7/18 $3,980,000 12/18/18 $3,070,000 1796 Saint Albans Road 980 Roxbury Road 12/19/18 $1,880,000 1552 Bradbury Road 12/19/18 $1,570,000 SOUTH PASADENA 1313 Spruce Street 12/6/18 $1,259,000 619 Mound Avenue 12/20/18 $1,088,000 1927 Fremont Avenue #A 12/7/18 $997,000

4 1 5 3 3 3 3 3 3 2 5 2 3 3 3 3

1,607 1,770 2280 1242 1800 2834 1879 2,800 2230 1824 2276 1886 2048 1468 1,352 1,660

1939 1920 $1,050,000 1952 1938 1950 1916 1999 $507,000 1986 $820,000 1937 $825,000 1955 $689,500 1921 1989 $740,000 1947 1955 $535,000 1906 $549,000 1989 $640,000

4 4 3 3

3988 3900 2432 1848

1941 $3,700,000 1929 $884,000 1936 1947

11/7/13 10/6/98

3 5 4

1920 2,136 1590

1909 1904 2007

7/1/92 8/1/88 10/9/08

$335,000 $290,000 $705,000

10/3/17

3/7/02 4/2/13 2/26/07 5/11/12 2/21/07 3/16/09 1/31/14 12/21/07

ARROYO HOME & DESIGN SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT

RING OUT THE OLD, RING IN THE NEW – KITCHENS AND APPLIANCES, THAT IS Most appliances have a relatively short life, which means decisions need to be made before you’re desperate.

PHOTO: Courtesy of ULTRA BATHROOM & KITCHEN

BY BRUCE HARING We’re well into the New Year now, and many resolutions made in

Experts estimate that gas ranges generally are the Methuselahs of

the heady moments of the calendar change have already gone by the

kitchen appliances, lasting 15 years, with dryers and refrigerators typically

wayside.

going down at about 13 years. Dishwashers and microwaves, which are

But even if you haven’t lost weight, exercised more or given up

both used almost daily, last a mere 9 years. Yes, there are exceptions to

smoking, there is one resolution that can’t be ignored for long – updating

those rules, but in an era of planned obsolescence, the parameters are

your kitchen and appliances. That’s because there’s a definite shelf life to

fairly solid for appliance expirations.

these crucial tools of living, and waiting until they formally break down is never a good option.

The life expectancy of the appliances in your kitchen isn’t that long, and when they actually fail depends on usage patterns. But generally, your

In many cases, appliances are replaced before they wear out, because style changes, updated technology and family needs dictate a replacement is in order. However, sometimes the unexpected happens, and you need to get something new immediately.

kitchen tools are likely to need replacement in about ten years to 15 years.

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—ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT—

continued from page 21

TIMING AND QUESTIONS TO PONDER The early part of each year is a time when older appliance inventory

or are intending to sell the home. Since many people may not know what they want or even what is available, now is the right time to visit a

that lingered on the market may be available at a bargain price. Like car

showroom. At Ultra Bathroom and Kitchen, we work with customers to build

dealers, appliance vendors need to make room for newer models. The

a package that is tailored to their specific needs. In many cases, they will

downside to shopping at this point is that the selection may be limited.

discover items they never knew they always wanted.”

Keep in mind that the end of each month is an excellent time to bargain hunt, as sales people on quotas may be looking to round out their portfolio with a final commission.

Before you go appliance shopping, there are a few questions that

If you intend to stay in your home, take a long-term outlook, Rojas advises.

“A remodel done properly won’t need to be done again for quite some time,” he says. “In certain cases an appliance may have been

you need to ask yourself. Are you planning a major kitchen remodel, or just

replaced or upgraded shortly before a remodel for one reason or another,

tweaking? Will the size appliance you bring in work with what you already

in those cases that appliance may not need to be replaced. That being

have on hand? And should you consider replacing everything at once,

said, if the appliance does not work well with the new design of the

presuming you have the budget and the patience?

kitchen, I would usually recommend swapping it out.”

TAKE IT FROM AN EXPERT

that should be targeted, he says. “If you can only change one appliance

If you only have a budget for one appliance, the refrigerator is the unit Frank Rojas is the Vice President of Ultra Bathroom and Kitchen,

a good place to start would be refrigeration. It will have a huge impact on

an Arcadia company that caters to the needs of trade professionals,

the look of a kitchen because refrigerators, in many cases, are the largest

including architects, builders, contractors, designers and developers. As

appliance in the kitchen. In addition, most newer models tend to be much

such, they are veterans at anticipating what needs to be done to make

more energy efficient that older models, preserve food for longer, and

kitchen remodels and appliance installations go smoothly.

have improved interior layouts to maximize storage.”

Rojas advises creating a wish list as the first step in the process, “regardless if you plan on being in the home for the foreseeable future

Locally, the steam oven is a hot trend among Pasadena homeowners continued on page 26

02.19 | ARROYO | 25

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continued from page 25

several homes.”

upgrading their kitchens. “One of my

Rojas emphasizes what he calls

favorite appliances is a steam oven,” Rojas says. “They have been gaining

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why, at Ultra Bathroom and Kitchen, we take the time to ask qualifying

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should focus on creating a kitchen

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The kitchen has always been the gathering place in most homes, and

levels in line with the expectations of the neighborhood, but don’t be

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26 | ARROYO | 02.19

PHOTO: Courtesy of ULTRA BATHROOM & KITCHEN

functionality. One great example is

THERE IS NOTHING FINER THAN AN

ALTADENA DINER With the cluster of Little Red Hen, Fox’s and Millie’s, the Altadena area has morphed into a destination for diner aficionados.

BY MICHAEL CERVIN

S

ince Altadena still stil illl has has the t e allure of an old-timey ttown, th own ow n iit’s t’s no surprise that the diner mentality is expanding here. The Little Red Hen has been around over 50 years.

Fox’s was recently purchased and upgraded (by the folks who own Cindy’s Diner in Eagle Rock), maintaining its 66-year legacy, and the stalwart 92-year-old Millie’s Diner in Silver Lake has added a second location nearby in Pasadena. Apparently, the Altadiners (and their diner neighbor) are making quite a statement.

The American diner is an institution. The term “diner” referred to a dining car when railroads had their own onboard restaurants. Downtown Los Angeles’ Pacific Dining Car, which opened in 1921, is a perfect example of one that isn’t going anywhere. But the origins of the diner can be traced to Walter Scott, a Rhode Island pressman who repurposed a horse-pulled wagon and parked it outside the Providence Journal, where he sold sandwiches, coffee, pies and eggs to the newspaper’s night owls. For Scott, it was what today we call a side hustle — a second job to help pay the bills. By 1872 running his wagon was a full-time job, thus birthing the American diner (and eventually the American Diner Museum in Scott’s hometown of Providence). Fifteen years later, in 1887, Altadena launched as a subdivision, though diners and people would take time to populate the foothill town.

–continued on page 28

02.19 | ARROYO | 27

–continued from page 27

Fox’s grilled flatiron steak with mashed potatoes

Technically, diners were small prefabricated roadside buildings, where cheap prepared food was served in a fast, convenient way. Diners flourished until the mid-1950s when competition in the form of chain restaurants like Denny’s, IHOP and Sambo’s spread across the country. According to AmericanDinerMuseum.org, a revival of diners began in the late 1970s. The few remaining diner builders began to fabricate restaurants that were new but old-style — retro-looking diners specifically evoking a 1950s feel. Johnny Rockets is a good example. “The renewed interest in diners can be attributed to Americans looking backwards for inspiration and the values of yesterday in a time of moral and economic uncertainty,” the website says. And nothing says consistency and comfort like the tried-and-true diner, a neighborhood place where you always know who’s there and what’s being served. Like the Cheers theme song, we all want to go to a place where everyone knows our name.

Barbara Shay of The Little Red Hen

28 | ARROYO | 02.19

Just a mile from the Fox is the Hen: The Little Red Hen to be precise, located at 2697 Fair Oaks Ave. It’s been under the same name for 60 years, but 50 years ago the Shay family bought it from the original owner and now it’s one of the oldest blackowned businesses in Altadena. Most customers are familiar with Lonzia Shay, who ran it for many years, although his sister Barbara has since taken it over. “I was 17 when my mother bought Little Red Hen,” Barbara Shay tells Arroyo Monthly. “It’s a rarity for an African-American family to be doing this for 50 years.” Th roughout the decades this spot has remained true to the diner concept: good food served quickly in

PHOTOS: (Top) Another Cup Photography; (bottom) Michael Cervin

Fox’s Restaurant has been a landmark in Altadena since 1955 when it was opened

by Paul and Edie Fox. The physical building was moved from a different location in 1948 to its present place at 2352 N. Lake Ave. Previously it had been a private home, a pet store, a real estate office and even a restaurant before Paul and Edie took it over.

In 1967 the Foxes’ son, Ken, bought the restaurant and continued the family business for another 50 years. When Ken decided to sell in 2017, he found another family of restaurateurs, husband-and-wife chefs Paul Rosenbluh and Monique King, who helm Cindy’s Diner in Eagle Rock. The couple decided to keep the name Fox’s and maintain its legacy of nearly seven decades. “We’re way up in Altadena, so it’s really a destination,” Rosenbluh tells Arroyo Monthly. The area is woefully underrepresented in terms of new restaurants and Fox’s new chefs have the benefit of an already loyal following who would “roll down the hill,” as Rosenbluh puts it, to visit Cindy’s. Now their commute is a little shorter. And he’s brought the same from-scratch menu items to Fox’s. “It’s really an adorable little place, a slice of Americana, and I wanted to maintain the 1950s feel,” he says.

TRY: the Southern Denver omelet with house-cured pork-butt ham, peppers, jalapeňos, cheddar cheese and house-grilled potatoes.

Millie’s Café in Pasadena

an unpretentious environment. The Hen is small, comprised mainly of counter stools, and it isn’t retro or even vintage — it’s a unique dyed-in-the-wool place. “Cooking is a way to put my displaced hostility in a pot and mix it up,” Shay tells me with a laugh.

“My spin is soulfully delicious recipes,” which include the use of organic food without being preachy about it. In addition to traditional menu items, Shay provides vegetarian and vegan options. She’s also active with her own cooking show, Cuttin’ Up in the Kitchen, through Pasadena Media public access and YouTube.

TRY: Shrimp and cheesy grits étouffée with organic greens.

When Millie’s Cafe fi rst opened its doors in 1926 in Silver Lake, it was one of the area’s few dining establishments. And at the new Millie’s Café, which opened last November at 1399 E. Washington Blvd., business is hopping. Weekend waits are at least 20 minutes and it’s packed inside with a line out the door. Owner Robert Babish bought the Silver Lake location in 2000 and his move to Pasadena was precipitated by loyal customers in the area. “We always give you good service and good food, and that’s why we’re still in business,” he says. They have long used Alta Dena Dairy products, which might seem like a marketing ploy, but it’s not.

TRY: Neptune’s Nest — three scrambled eggs mixed with smoked salmon, cream cheese, salsa, guacamole, scallions, sour cream and sherry.

PHOTO: Michael Cervin

What Little Red Hen, Fox’s, and Millie’s all have in common is an emphasis on homemade food, generous portions, friendly service and a look and feel that’s both comfortable and unpretentious. Dining out never goes out of style and neither will Altadena diners.||||

02.19 | ARROYO | 29

WINE

WITH WINGS AND OTHER TRENDS FOR OENOPHILES Look for drone delivery, canned wine and a wine mecca relatively close to home.

BY MICHAEL CERVIN

30 | ARROYO | 02.19

W

ine’s lineage stretches back over 6,000 years, a particularly long legacy that struck me a few years ago during a visit to the Greek island of Crete.

I recall standing inside the Temple of Knossos, staring down at a 4,000year old wine-crushing stone. Not much has changed in how grapes are fermented and turned into wine. How we consume said wine is another matter. What wine trends prophesy our collective future libation consumption?

PHOTO: Michael Cervin

Premium Wine in Cans

Canned wine might seem tedious. After all, wine has been sold in cans since before anyone reading this was born. And who wants the soda-pop sound of a can of wine being opened during your romantic dinner? Though trending, it’s nothing new. The fi rst canned wines began appearing in the mid-1930s, then intermittently disappeared and reappeared again over the decades. The problem was one of acidity eating away at the metal, and the can imparting a metallic taste to the wine, which was cheap bulk quality to begin with. Canning fine wine didn’t take off until recently, when the inner linings of cans stopped transferring off-flavors, canned wine had lost its stigma and premium wine producers started paying attention.

Phil Markert supervises liquor sales for Vons, Albertsons and Pavilions, whose South Pasadena store offers 1,100 different wines. The recently remodeled Vons on Colorado in Pasadena and the Arcadia store both offer more than 2,000 wines, plus a wine cellar, daily wine tastings and a full-service staff. Wine in cans, he says, will not go away any time soon. “Th is is a trend that is happening in both alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages. The biggest driver is a younger consumer who wants packaging that’s more environmentally friendly but also wants convenience,” he says.

And wineries are quickly jumping onboard. “It had become apparent to me that pp –continued on page 32

02.19 | ARROYO | 31

–continued from page 31

Paso Robles as the New Napa

California has the highest number of federally recognized wine-producing regions in the U.S., with 139 American Viticultural Areas. While 46 of California’s 58 counties produce wine, Napa is still considered the state’s wine mecca, although newcomers are muscling in. Chief among them is Paso Robles, situated midway between L.A. and San Francisco. The small city, whose wines are huge in Arroyoland, isn’t new to the wine game; small vineyards date back as far as the 1880s and large-scale vineyards were planted in the 1920s. Currently 63 varietals are in the ground, planted

32 | ARROYO | 02.19

PHOTO: Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance

people wanted to be able to include consciously made wines in more areas of their life where bottles are a limiting factor,” Faith Armstrong Foster, owner and winemaker at Sonoma-based Onward and Farmstrong Wines tells Arroyo Monthly. The wines she sells in cans are the same exact vintages she’s been putting in bottles for years; she expanded into canning when she recognized the need for a more portable package, for beach days, hiking, camping, poolside, picnics, movie theaters, etc. “However, this is also offered as my small format, so really anyone who wants a half-bottle option has one. They are light, portable, chill down fast and make wine drinking more accessible,” she says. The most popular wine in cans according to Markert? First, sparkling rosé, whites like pinot gris and sauvignon blanc, then pinot noir.

Leave the cork. Take the can.

by about 250 wineries; the main focus is on cabernet sauvignon and Rhône wines, like grenache and mourvèdre. “Th is is a localization trend primarily driven by millennials who want to support local wineries, want to know the history and legacy of the winery, want to know who is making it and what their values are,” says Merkert. Christopher Taranto, a Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance spokesman, says Paso wines offer good valueto-quality ratio, offering highly rated vintages for less than you would pay for those from other better-known regions.

“Paso wine country is still seen as a discovery, which is the paradigm we as wine lovers live in,” Taranto says. “We love discovering something new, then sharing it with family and friends.”

Beyond that, Paso Robles has something millennials want that other wine regions don’t necessarily have — winemakers their own age. You don’t find as many young start-ups in Napa or Sonoma, or even in the less-renowned AVAs Monterey and Santa Barbara. “Paso is exploding with young, talented winemakers who don’t have a lot of money but they do have a passion for wine,” says Peachy Canyon Winery owner Doug Beckett. “The dynamics have changed so much in the last 40 years. It’s in the hands of the younger generation now.”

Drone Delivery

PHOTO: (bottom) Michael Cervin

Want your albariño by air? Try a drone delivery.

The very fi rst drones were a byproduct of wartime, and the original UAVs (unmanned aerial vehicles) were large pilotless planes operated by remote control. These days drones are ubiquitous.

Will a drone be able to deliver wine to your door? Yes. Will that be widespread in 2019? Probably not. Amazon Prime Air has already been testing wine delivery by drone. The Pucari Winery tested drone delivery in 2016 in its home country, the Republic of Moldova. Other companies that have looked into drones include Über, Chipotle, Oscar Meyer, Domino’s Pizza and Southern Comfort.

None of these experiments has materialized as completely viable...yet. “Drone delivery, while seemingly amazing, has a lot of hurdles to overcome before becoming mainstream,” says wineindustry analyst Paul Mabray, CEO of Emetry, whose innovations include using digital data to map consumer behaviors for wine companies. “Regulatory challenges aside, there are still social and economic consequences (predicted and unforeseen) that will inhibit mass usage of what is currently a novelty,” says Mabray. “It sounds great in theory,” he tells Arroyo but adds that pressing issues remain, such as ensuring adult signatures, temperature control, breakage and weight challenges (drones are not built to carry more than 40 pounds). “None are insurmountable, but all add friction to this being a primary delivery category.”

But stay tuned. The day will come when a drone will deliver dolcetto to your door.||||

Paso Robles Countryside

02.19 | ARROYO | 33

Dan Whitmore

A BIBLIOPHILE’S H PARADISE Dan Whitmore channeled his passion for literature into Pasadena’s new Whitmore Rare Books.

STORY BY JERVEY TERVALON I PHOTOS BY SHEENA LAD 34 | ARROYO | 02.19

ow is a bibliophile made? How is it that a seemingly reasonable person decides to surround himself/herself with books, beautiful books that clutter whatever space is available as though it’s reasonable to hoard books because of, what really? That books might vanish like extinct birds or that they need beca good goo o homes and no one will care for them; or that there aren’t enough well-heeled institutions, like the Huntington Library, that house fantastically rare books to visit? inst in No, it’s more than that. To have that particular book of your desire is motivation to spend lavishly to own a literary art object eenough en o I am a bibliophile, though constrained by having a smallish house with children.

(Plans are afoot for an office in the backyard that will house a library.) I lust for books (Pla that I don’t have the time to read, I haunt library book sales hoping beyond reason that I’ll come across a signed fi rst edition of Ralph Ellison’s Invisible Man with a beautiful dust jacket. The fact is, every good thing in my life has come from my passion for reading — my children, my wife, my house, my damn dog…all of it. I owe everything to the writing and reading gods.

Imitatio Christi (Imitation of Christ) , Thomas à Kempis, first edition, 1473, $150,000

I live in Pasadena because it’s a writers’ town with many wonderful writers, and writers as a species are drawn to bookstores. I make my Wednesday rounds visiting many of them. I stop by Century Books on Green Street, then walk up to Colorado Boulevard for a stop at Book Alley to browse its lush and eclectic offerings, then over to Comics Factory to buy a few comics and chat with my friends; then from there I’m on to Vroman’s Bookstore, California’s oldest bookstore, to write at Jones Coffee.

Life in Pasadena has been great for a bibliophile, but then life recently became exponentially better: When driving in Old Pasadena, I noticed a new bookstore under construction on Union Street. I was delighted but skeptical, fearing that somehow I misread the signage. Until then I didn’t believe our city could support another bookstore, but that was my lack of imagination. Even I had begun to succumb to the idea that a passion for physical books was an anachronistic fetish.

But it was true: A new bookstore that specialized in very rare books, a kind of Rolls-Royce dealership for the upscale literary devotee, was opening and my heart raced. More good luck: An assignment came my way to cover the launch of Whitmore Rare Books and I happily accepted — an early Christmas present. Soon after came an invite to the opening reception. Whitmore Rare Books is a beautiful lightfi lled space with bookshelves made of gorgeous woods that stretch to the ceiling. The books hang like jewels behind glass, tantalizing bibliophiles of means and those who aren’t but might have an even greater lust for the book of their dreams.

I didn’t get a chance to spend much time talking to owner Dan Whitmore that night, so we met soon after for coffee at Intelligentsia Café near his shop. I couldn’t help doing what one does in the fi lm capital of the world — Dan’s a handsome guy who resembles Chris Pine, has a fine sense of humor and seems well-rested for a man with a demanding business and four young boys at home. He’s a Pasadena native who completed a B.A. in economics from Middlebury College in Vermont before earning his J.D. from the University of Pennsylvania. He and Darinka Whitmore, his wife and art director, run Whitmore Rare Books with Miranda Garno Nesler, who serves as the specialist in women’s history and works with institutional clients. She has a

The Divina Commedia, Dante Alighieri, first English-language edition, 1807, $12,500

–continued on page 36 02.19 | ARROYO | 35

Mr. William Shakespeare’s Comedies, Histories, and Tragedies, second folio, 1632, $435,000

–continued from page 35

Ulysses, James Joyce, first edition (sold)

The Catcher in the Rye, J.D. Salinger, first edition, 1951, $29,500

Ph.D. in literature and gender studies from Vanderbilt University.

Dan Whitmore is a passionate lover of books as objects of value, aesthetically as well as financially. He turned from life as a lawyer just as he was making serious lawyer money because he couldn’t see himself living the lawyer’s life; it just wasn’t for him and, as a colleague said, “If you can pay your bills you should do what you want.”

Dan knew what he wanted and that was a life in the world of rare books Dan told me of his epiphany, that moment of awakening that revealed his life’s work. While out for a bike ride, he passed a guy on the curb selling what looked to be various kinds of garage-sale junk, but he caught a glimpse of a book that intrigued him. He stopped and saw that it was Hemingway’s Farewell to Arms, one of Dan’s favorite novels. He bought it and, when he examined it later, was delighted to discover it was a fi rst edition…a fi rst edition that didn’t have a dust jacket and that was one of a huge print run because Hemingway was one of the world’s most popular writers at the time. That particular book wasn’t worth much but the book bug bit Dan. Working in the field of rare books would be central to his life. He earns his living understanding the market for rare books of great value, while contending with the expenses of travel, catalogs and outfitting a beautiful space to showcase wonderful and rare books. When he talks of helping to foil the theft of an extremely valuable book, he’s transported, just as when he discusses the papers of an important poet he’s been commissioned to handle. Or when he looks at a writer’s signature on a signed copy: A broken signature is a dead giveaway that that signature is forged to drive up the value of that book.

As a novelist I feel fortunate to have been paid for my books. Dan’s secondary market sales are so far removed from those of us who create books, but it’s part of the ecosystem of how books of great value are preserved. It’s certainly about money, but the commerce for rare books — the passion to own these objects that contain all the permutations of narratives of the human experience — helps to preserve them.

It comes down to this: My heart races walking into Whitmore Rare Books in a way that doesn’t happen walking into the Tesla dealer on Colorado. We’ve come so far technologically, but I’m grateful we can keep a part of our literary past with us. |||| Whitmore Rare Books is located at 121 E. Union St., Pasadena. Call (626) 714-7720 or visit whitmorerarebooks.com…Jervey Tervalon is an award-winning poet, screenwriter and author of six novels, including his latest, All the Trouble You Need: A Novel (Atria Books; 2018). He lives in Altadena with his wife and two daughters.

36 | ARROYO | 02.19

KITCHEN CONFESSIONS

Celebrating a Frozen February THE DEAD OF WINTER IS THE IDEAL TIME TO SERVE THE CELEBRATED GILDED AGE DESSERT — BAKED ALASKA.

BY LESLIE BILDERBACK

I

n keeping with last month’s theme of official National Days celebrating weird stuff, I took a look at the February calendar to help me figure out what to cook this month. (Yeah, I make a monthly menu…it’s a chef thing.) I have always followed a seasonal and market guide, but using the National Day Calendar as inspiration is a first, and I feel like I have struck inspirational gold.

Besides putting obscure foods (or those I gave up on long ago) back into my repertoire (such

as Tater Tot Day — Feb. 20, Banana Bread Day — Feb. 23 and the [oddly specific] Crab Stuffed

Flounder Day — Feb. 18), this calendar also allows me to combine food and nonfood observances for the betterment of mankind. For instance, Feb. 16 is both National Almond Day and National Do a Grouch a Favor Day. (I’m not making any of this up.) So, if you’re feeling generous, you can

in February) or buy them whole and fresh-frozen, then flavor them with something delightfully subtle, like cardamom, lemon zest and a dash of orange-flower water.

Nonfood-related days I’m looking forward to this month include Feb. 11 — Don’t Cry Over

Spilt Milk Day — on which I’m going to be super positive, always look on the bright side and

try not to serve anyone a glass of milk, just in case. I’m also super psyched for Feb. 28, which is National Public Sleeping Day, encouraging naps nationwide, as if I needed an excuse.

But my favorite day this month is right out of the gate, on Feb. 1, and it is a day I will most

definitely be celebrating culinarily. This is the day that celebrates my favorite dessert to both make and eat — baked Alaska.

Baked Alaska was created at Delmonico’s Restaurant in New York City, which opened in the

make the world better by presenting your grouch with a delightful almond cookie (or have him over

early 1800s and is still open today. (And though it claims to be the oldest restaurant in New York,

Cream-Filled Chocolates Day. But, to be clear, when I am up on that Ferris wheel on Valentine’s

another Delmonico’s creation was stretching the truth.) In addition to baked Alaska, this iconic

for trout amandine). Feb. 14 is Valentine’s Day, but also National Organ Donor, Ferris Wheel and Day, I’d better be presented with a box of cream-filled chocolates, and not a donated organ.

Feb. 15 is both Singles Awareness Day and No One Eats Alone Day, which I assumed were

combined to cancel each other out, until I read their official websites. They explain that Singles Awareness Day champions the benefits of being single on the day after Valentine’s Day — a

comfort to depressed singles the world over who spent Valentine’s Day watching everyone else

it has not been operating continuously, as there was a short break in service for about 70 years. Also, restaurant originated several classic dishes, including eggs Benedict and the Delmonico steak,

which was originally two hearts of boneless ribeye tied together with twine, creating a fattier, more tender version of the filet mignon. Today, however, the Delmonico steak is usually a New York strip.

The baked Alaska, initially named “Alaska-Florida” because of its contrasting temperatures,

donate organs to each other on Ferris wheels. However, No One Eats Alone Day, as it turns out, is

was first served in 1867 to celebrate our purchase of Alaska from Russia. It consists of a walnut

I assumed Cherry Pie Day was related to George Washington’s birthday, but it falls on Feb.

The entire concoction was then browned under a broiler, the meringue acting to insulate the ice

about kids being nice to each other in the lunchroom, which I like and therefore will not mock.

20, which is neither George Washington’s real nor fake birthday. He was born on Feb. 11, 1731,

but the Julian calendar was used at that time. When Britain switched to the Gregorian calendar in

sponge topped with banana ice cream, encased in meringue with an apricot compote on the side. cream and prevent it from melting.

Delmonico’s was a happening place, and this dessert was the epitome of Gilded Age dining,

1752, his birthday moved 1 year and 11 days, to Feb, 22, 1732. I spent several hours in a deep dive

enjoyed by everyone who was anyone, including all the Rockefellers, Samuel Clemens and Charles

the details.) Also, the cherry tree story is a lie.

youngest, as she finds bananas revolting. It is her only character defect.

into this historical calendar switch, which is fascinating. (But probably only to me, so I’ll spare you Regardless, cherry pie will definitely be on my list of things to bake this month, because I love

cherries, pies and George Washington. I never use canned cherries or cherry pie filling. I cannot

abide the corn-syrupy gel goop. I will pit real, fresh cherries for this pie when they are in season (not

Dickens. Today Delmonico’s serves the original version, which delighted me but horrified my

I have made this dessert in more variations than I can count. I have served it in every restaurant

where I have worked, and included it in every class I ever taught. It can be large and presented to

the whole table, or in cute individual portions. It can be drenched in rum and lit aflame tableside, –continued on page 38 02.19 | ARROYO | 37

ARROYO COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH

KITCHEN CONFESSIONS –continued from page 37

or browned in the kitchen with a torch or under the broiler. I have used all sorts of cakes, brownies and cookies as a base for the rest of the ingredients. The key is to choose something stable that can structurally support the rest of the ensemble. The ice cream can be of any flavor, and I have often used sorbet or sherbet. Some of my favorite flavor combinations include a gingerbread or gingersnap base with eggnog; apple or orange ice cream; brownie base with peppermint or coffee ice cream; or lemon cookie — or even lemon bar — base with tart lemon sorbet. I’m sure you can come up with your own personal favorite. (An easy version includes a graham cracker base with chocolate ice cream, which takes on a s’mores effect when the marshmallow-esque meringue is torched. Magnifique!

The meringue that insulates the ice cream is the tricky part, although after a few tries you’ll find it easy peasy. Most recipes call for the Italian meringue style, which requires cooking sugar syrup to a precise temperature before whisking it into a meringue. I have learned over the years, however, that a Swiss-style meringue is easier, less finicky and faster. Swiss meringue consists of egg whites and sugar combined in a bowl over a bain-marie (simmering water bath), stirred until the sugar dissolves, then whisked into stiff peaks. This meringue is then piped or plopped and spread over the ice cream and cookie, completely concealing it all in a soft, fluffy snowball.

The final step is to brown the Alaska, which I usually do with a propane torch (a pastry chef’s best friend). It can also be popped quickly under a broiler. All of the steps, minus the torching, can be done in advance and the work-in-progress stored in the freezer until the time comes for you to impress your guests with the flame. But don’t wait for guests to make an Alaska. Make it for yourself. If this article is about anything (which I admit is sometimes questionable), it is about

CAPPUCCINO WITH A KICK

year-round celebrating. ||||

Baked Alaska Serves 6 Th is recipe is for the individual-style Alaska, which I prefer. You can, however, bring all these instructions up a notch and assemble it on a 6-to-8-inch cake or cookie base.

All of the instructions still apply.

STORY AND PHOTO

BY MICHAEL CERVIN

INGREDIENTS 6 cookies (2 to 3 inches) or small slices of cake. (The fl avor is up to you. Bake them yourself or buy ready-made.)

4 egg whites (or ½ cup)

6 scoops of ice cream or sorbet, well frozen.

(Again, the fl avor is up to you.)

Pinch of sea salt

¾ cup granulated sugar

METHOD

1. Place cookies or cake slices on a baking tray, well spaced. Top each with a generous scoop of ice cream. Try to give the ice cream a flat bottom, so that it will sit securely on the base. Place these into the freezer until very firm. (This step takes several hours; a day ahead is ideal.)

2. Combine the egg whites, sugar and salt in a heatproof mixing bowl, ideally the bowl of an electric stand mixer. Place over a pot of simmering water and stir, gently but continuously, until the mixture is warm and the sugar has dissolved, about 2 minutes. You will know the sugar is dissolved when you touch the mixture and can no longer feel the sugar crystals between your fingers. Immediately remove the egg mixture from the heat and whip it on high speed until it reaches stiff, shiny peaks. Spreading is easier if the meringue is stiff but still a little warm.

3. Pipe or spread the meringue around each ice-cream ball and base. There must be no holes whatsoever. If ice cream is not completely covered it will melt and leak during the browning stage. Best to work with one ice cream/base at a time, pulling it out of the freezer to cover with meringue, then popping it back in when complete. The meringue-covered ice cream can stay in the freezer like this for several hours or overnight.

4. Final preparation requires browning the meringue. If you have a torch, simply pass it across the meringue quickly and evenly until it is browned. (Be sure to do this away from any parchment paper or doilies that might be lying around — another tip brought to you by “learning the hard way.”) To brown in a broiler, preheat the oven, then pop in the entire tray directly from the freezer. (Again, be sure this tray is ovenproof.)

Once browned, the Alaskas must be served immediately. Transfer each one to a serving plate, decorated with sauce or garnish of your choice. You may also ignite your Alaska tableside by sprinkling with a high-proof alcohol and lighting with a match and dramatic flair. When you serve your Alaska, be prepared for a standing ovation. Or just stand and clap for yourself.

38 | ARROYO | 02.19

A

t Ocean View Bar & Grill, a family-owned spot tucked in the upper reaches of Montrose, you’ll find a frothy concoction ideal for these cold wintry months. The venue itself is small, with a bar on one side and restaurant seating on the other, separated by a wall. It feels homey, the kind of local joint every neighbor wants to visit. Bay windows overlook Ocean View Boulevard, allowing in light but also reminding patrons that this is still a small-town restaurant and bar, a true neighborhood gathering place.

In addition to a surprising menu created mostly from scratch, Ocean View offers a host of events, including karaoke every Saturday night; live music on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday nights; and trivia on Tuesday nights. Th is simple cocktail will make your karaoke singing that much better, and it pairs ideally with Ocean View’s weekend brunch menu — yet it’s easy to make at home. The warm espresso is tempered by the nuttiness of the amaretto, and the Kahlúa lends some creaminess and heft. Have this with their eggs Benedict or their housemade meatloaf. ||||

OCEAN VIEW CAPPUCCINO INGREDIENTS ¾ ounce Kahlúa ¾ ounce Disaronno Originale Amaretto 3 ounces espresso

METHOD

¼ cup whole milk to foam Sprinkle of cinnamon Fresh mint leaves

Using an espresso machine, brew espresso directly into cup. Add Kahlúa and amaretto, then top with milk foam. Sprinkle lightly with cinnamon and garnish with fresh mint.

A SELECTIVE PREVIEW OF UPCOMING EVENTS

THE LIST

COMPILED BY JOHN SOLLENBERGER Movies and Matisse at Norton Simon

original thinking. Admission is free; no reser-

All events are included

Bonsai-a-Thon features SoCal bonsai mas-

in regular Norton Simon

ters sharing their passion for the art, plus ex-

admission of $15, $12

hibits, prize drawings, a bonsai bazaar and

vations are required.

Feb. 23 and 24 — The Huntington’s annual

for seniors; free for members, students and

live auctions from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. both

visitors 18 and younger.

days. Included with regular admission. In

Feb. 1 — Max Ophüls’ 1948 film, Letter from

addition, a hands-on bonsai workshop on

an Unknown Woman, screens at 6 p.m.,

growing and shaping miniature trees runs

starring Louis Jourdan as Stefan Brand,

from 9 a.m. to noon Feb. 23. Register for

who is about to leave town after being

the workshop ($50 fee, $40 for members) at

challenged to a duel that he wants no part

huntington.org/calendar.

of. Then he gets an anonymous love letter

The Huntington Library, Art Collections

that changes his life.

and Botanical Gardens is located at 1151

Feb. 8 — The 1950 film Orpheus is Jean

Oxford Rd., San Marino. Call (626) 405-2100

his love for both his wife, Eurydice, and a

WORMHOLES, WHALES, WOODWINDS AT CALTECH

mysterious princess. He seeks inspiration

Feb. 2 — A Pasadena Folk Music Society show at 8 p.m. spotlights the Honey Whiskey

Ragtime Staged at Pasadena Playhouse

by following the princess from the world of

Trio, three young women (above) who met at Bob Cole Conservatory of Music at

Feb. 5 — Ragtime: The

the living to the land of the dead. It starts

Cal State Long Beach, performing mostly a cappella songs that blend folk with jazz

Musical opens at 8

at 6 p.m.

influences. The concert starts at 8 p.m. at the Beckman Institute Auditorium (not to be

p.m. at the Pasadena

Feb. 9 — In a 4 p.m. lecture, “From

confused with the larger Beckman Auditorium nearby). Tickets are $20, $5 for Caltech

Playhouse and runs through March 3. The

Carpaccio’s Saint Ursula to Titian’s Lady in

students and children.

great American musical, based on E.L.

White: The Feminine Mystique in Renais-

Beckman Institute Auditorium is located at 400 S. Wilson Ave., Pasadena.

Doctorow’s novel, tells the story of fictional

sance Venice,” Patricia Fortini Brown,

Feb. 8 — A Theodore von Kármán Lecture explores “The Ridiculous World of Scientific

families at the turn of the 20th century pur-

professor emerita of Art and Archaeology

Ballooning” at 7 p.m. in Ramo Auditorium. The discussion highlights the fact that our

suing the American dream. The show fol-

at Princeton University, explores depictions

oldest flight technology has provided researchers with a well-tested, reliable, low-cost,

lows pianist Coalhouse Walker Jr.; his child’s

of women as wives, virgins or courtesans.

moderate-risk platform that helps prepare the next generation of scientists, engineers

mother, Sarah, who has joined a respected

Feb. 22 — Matisse/Odalisque, an exhibition

and instruments. Admission is free.

family; and a Latvian immigrant, Tateh.

of the 20th-century master’s paintings of

Ramo Auditorium is located on the Caltech campus, 1200 E. California Blvd.,

The fictional characters are eventually

odalisques (Turkish chambermaids and

Pasadena.

joined by such real-life historical figures as

court ladies of the Ottoman sultan), opens

Feb. 9 — The high-definition film The Great Feast explores how spring’s arrival triggers

Booker T. Washington, J.P. Morgan, Henry

today and continues through June 17.

an explosion of life in Alaska’s coastal waters, as humpback whales and their calves

Ford, Stanford White, Harry Houdini and

Works include Henri Matisse’s Odalisque

arrive from Hawaii to spend the summer feasting, and resident sea lions take full

others. The musical was written by Terrence

with Tambourine (1916), The Black Shawl

advantage of the bounty. The film starts at 3 p.m. Michael Mazza, a graduate student

McNally, with music composed by Stephen

(1917), an untitled homage to Mademoi-

in chemistry, leads a post-screening discussion. Admission is $10.

Flaherty and lyrics by Lynn Ahrens. David

selle Catherine Viviano (1936) and Nude

Feb. 27 — An Earnest C. Watson Lecture, “My Half-Century Romance with Caltech

Lee directs. Performances continue at

on a Sofa (1923), as well as several pieces

and Black Holes, Wormholes, Time Travel and Gravitation Waves,” features Kip Thorne,

8 p.m. Thursdays and Fridays, 2 and 8 p.m.

by Jean-Frédéric Bazille, Achille-Jacques-

the Richard P. Feynman Professor of Theoretical Physics Emeritus at Caltech. Thorne re-

Saturdays and 2 and 7 p.m. Sundays. Ticket

Jean-Marie Devéria and Pablo Picasso.

counts how when he arrived as a freshman in 1958, the existence of the “warped side

prices start at $25.

The Norton Simon Museum is located at

of our universe” (objects and phenomena created from warped space and time)

The Pasadena Playhouse is located at 39

411 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena. Call

was no more than far-out speculation, and how he and his colleagues transformed a

S. El Molino Ave., Pasadena. Call (626) 356-

(626) 449-6840 or visit nortonsimon.org.

portion of that warped side into established and observed phenomena. The lecture

7529 or visit pasadenaplayhouse.org.

Cocteau’s update of the Orpheus myth, depicting a famous poet (Jean Marais) scorned by Left Bank youth, who explores

or visit huntington.org.

starts at 8 p.m. Admission is free.

Huntington Happenings

Caltech’s Beckman Auditorium is located on Michigan Avenue south of Del Mar Boulevard. Call (626) 395-4652 or visit events.caltech.edu.

Feb. 2 and 3 — The

Chamber Orchestra Tours Bohemia, Mexico Feb. 7 — In a Baroque

Huntington Library, Art Collections and Bo-

Free with Huntington general admission of

Saturday and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday,

tanical Gardens hosts

Conversations concert,

$29, $24 for seniors and $13 for youth 4 to

included with regular admission.

the Chinese New Year Festival, celebrat-

11; free for children under 4.

Feb. 13 — In a 7:30 p.m. Haaga Lecture,

Baroque conductor and violinist Monica

ing the Year of the Pig. Activities include

Feb. 9 and 10 — The Huntington’s annual

“The Entrepreneurial Frontier: The West

Huggett leads LACO musicians, including

Chinese music and dance, lion dancers,

Camellia Show and Sale features hundreds

and American Innovation,” USC historian

Principal Trumpet David Washburn, in a

mask-changing performances, martial arts,

of stunning blooms competing for top hon-

William Deverell explores the special chal-

program spotlighting Bohemian compos-

calligraphy demonstrations and children’s

ors, sponsored by the Southern California

lenges of life in the American West that

ers. The concert, with works by Vejva-

activities from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. both days.

Camellia Society. It runs from 1 to 5 p.m.

helped drive entrepreneurs and stimulate

“Bohemian Trumpets,”

–continued on page 40

02.19 | ARROYO | 39

THE LIST

MASTERS OF THE AMERICAN WEST AT AUTRY

Feb. 9 through March 24 — The Masters of the American West Exhibition returns to the Autry Museum of the American West, featuring paintings and sculptures by 64 noted Western artists, including George Carlson, Dennis Doheny, Kevin Red Star and Tim Solliday. The show opens Feb. 9 with a presentation by sculptor Sandy Scott, a barbecue buffet and a panel discussion. The museum closes at 4 p.m., then reopens at 5:30 p.m. for special evening events, including a cocktail reception and drawings.

Daytime-only opening day tickets cost $170 ($95 for members). All-day tickets, including the evening events, are $270 ($195 for members). Thereafter, admission to the exhibition and sale is included in regular Autry admission of $14, $10 for students and seniors and $6 for children 3 to 12; free for members and children under 3.

The Autry Museum of the American West is located at 4700 Western Heritage Way, Griffith Park. Call (323) 495-4370 or visit theautry.org.

–continued from page 39

novsky, Schmelzer, Melani, Muffat, Rittler

Dohnányi are also included. Ticket prices

and Bibert, starts at 7:30 p.m. in downtown

start at $49.

Los Angeles’ Zipper Hall. Ticket prices start

The Huntington Library, Art Collections

at $52.

and Botanical Gardens is located at 1151

Zipper Hall is located at 200 S. Grand Ave.,

Oxford Rd., San Marino. Call (213) 622-7001

L.A.

or visit laco.org.

Feb. 15 — “Homages and Souvenirs,” part

starts at 7 p.m. at the Huntington Library,

Mommy Marx Recognized at the Alex

Art Collections and Botanical Gardens.

Feb. 10 — The Musical

LACO’s musicians serve as musical tour

Theatre Guild presents

of the orchestra’s In Focus series curated

by LACO Concertmaster Margaret Batjer,

guides in a program of works that pay

Minnie’s Boys, a musi-

tribute to places and people. The concert

cal celebration of Minnie Marx, the super-

includes a commissioned work by Juan

mom and manager of the Marx Brothers.

Pablo Contreras, “Musas Mexicanas,” and

She was a vaudeville performer herself,

a collection of musical portraits inspired by

and she coaxed, pushed, pulled and prod-

leading Mexican women including Frida

ded her sons into assuming their famous

Kahlo, 17th-century poet Sor Juana Ines de

alter-egos. The score is by Larry Grossman

la Cruz and La Malinche, an Aztec woman

and Hal Hackady. It starts at 7 p.m. at the

who aided in the Spanish conquest of the

Alex Theatre. Tickets are $45.

Aztec empire. Works by Tchaikovsky and –continued on page 42 40 | ARROYO | 02.19

02.19 | ARROYO | 41

THE LIST

TCHAIKOVSKY IS CHIEF AT AMBASSADOR Feb. 16 — The Pasadena Symphony season continues with an all-Tchaikovsky concert, conducted by David Lockington, at Ambassador Auditorium. Works include Symphony No. 5 and Piano Concerto No. 1. Featured soloist is RussianAmerican pianist Olga Kern (above), a Van Clyburn winner who has ancestral links to the great composer. Concerts start at 2 and 8 p.m. Tickets start at $35.

Ambassador Auditorium is located at 131 S. St. John Ave., Pasadena. Call (626) 793-7172 or visit pasadenasymphony-pops.org.

–continued from page 40

The Alex Theatre is located at 216 N. Brand

two piano sonatas by Beethoven, fol-

Blvd., Glendale. Call (818) 243-2539 or visit

lowed by works by Steve Reich, at the

alextheatre.org. Visit musicaltheatreguild.

Huntington Library, Art Collections and

com for information.

Botanical Gardens. Tickets are $58.

The Huntington Library, Art Collections

Celebrating an Ancient Craft

and Botanical Gardens is located at 1151

Feb. 10 — The Audubon Center at Debs

Oxford Rd., San Marino. Call (805) 884-

Park in northeast L.A. is the scene of

8410 or visit cameratapacifica.org.

the first annual Adam’s Forge Festival,

traditional craft of blacksmithing, from

Travel Options Abound at L.A. Travel Show

noon to 4 p.m. Hosted by Adam’s Forge,

Feb. 16 and 17 — The annual L.A. Travel

a nonprofit community of blacksmithing

and Adventure Show returns to the L.A.

artists, the festival includes live demon-

Convention Center. Destination experts will

strations, hands-on activities, tomahawk

inform travelers of domestic and interna-

throwing, musical performances, an

tional getaways, cruises, adventure es-

artisan metal-and-craft marketplace

capes and other activities. Exclusive travel

and more. Admission costs $30, free for

discounts will be available at the show.

children 12 and younger.

Celebrity speakers include Rick Steves, host

The Audubon Center at Debs Park is

of PBS’ Rick Steves’ Europe, and Samantha

located at 4700 Griffin Ave., L.A. Visit

Brown, host of Samantha Brown’s Places

adamsforge.org.

to Love, also on PBS. The show runs from 10

a family-friendly event celebrating the

a.m. to 5 p.m. both days. The cost is $15 for

42 | ARROYO | 02.19

Camerata Pacifica Highlights Beethoven

single-day tickets, $22 for two-day tickets.

Feb. 12 — A Camerata Pacifica Cham-

at 1201 S. Figueroa St., L.A. Visit latrav-

ber Music concert at 7:30 p.m. features

elshow.com. ||||

The L.A. Convention Center is located

02.19 | ARROYO | 43