TRAVEL

Clockwise from top: Ashburton lakes district; Lake Hood subdivision; Trott’s Gardens in Ashburton.

ASHBURTON BY BUS!

It’s easy to sit and dream of far off places but any chance of visiting most of those is probably off the agenda for some time yet despite now being able to visit Australia without quarantining. However, visiting places closer to home is a good option and, perhaps to also revisit a few as HELEN PERRY did recently.

I have flown to Christchurch several times over the past couple of years despite Covid-19 doing its best to inhibit travel even within our own borders.

After a dear friend relocated to the South Island last August, returning there after a five-year stint in Taupo, I promised we would visit as soon as they had found a new home in their preferred township of Timaru.

Eight months later they are still looking, the housing market there bereft of homes for sale. What’s more, as in so many areas, any homes that come on to the market, especially those suited to their needs, disappear in a flash.

Fortunately, they have been able to house-sit further south in Oamaru while they continue the search. Initially, we deemed that a tad too far from Christchurch for us to visit during our three-night stay especially as we had decided not to hire a car.

However, we reached a happy compromise – we would take the bus to Ashburton and they would drive up from Timaru where they were visiting friends for a few days. We decided to meet for lunch and enjoy the afternoon together before returning to our respective bases – us by bus, of course!

Well, what fun. I thoroughly enjoyed the 75-minute Inter City bus journey plus the jolly commentary from our driver.

It had been years since I’d actually driven the east side of the island, south from Christchurch, and I had no real memory of Ashburton. Travelling by bus allowed us to really take in the countryside – flat as it was!

Arriving the best part of an hour ahead of our friends we alighted next to the town’s botanic gardens and took time to wander this very pretty and quite substantial park.

With all shops (as far as I could discern) shut on a Sunday, bar Michael Hill Jeweller, Farmers, and the bargain Yellow Banana store, I was somewhat surprised that, despite its size, the township could boast such beautiful gardens and right next to State Hwy 1. Towering trees, a small lake with water fowl aplenty, a toddler swimming pool plus playground and even a corner dedicated to 1200 Filipino immigrants who settled in the area, charmed us. The latter was especially eye-catching with flower beds planted in all the colours of the Philippine’s flag.

Gradually we made our way into the township – undergoing major road works – and found two licensed eateries open. We opted for the The Fine Lion which we soon learnt was newly opened last year.

What a find. I loved this upstairs restaurant with large, wraparound deck overlooking the road. I also loved the décor (including the exceptionally elegant loos and powder room – my oh my!) and the food even more.

I hated that I started wishing the owners would bring this contemporary venue to Auckland; it made me feel disgruntled that it could present relatively casual fare so innovatively. Boasting great flavours (and presentation) it reminded me that sometimes outer Auckland, where I now live seems to lack a sense of adventure when it comes to food.

Being lunchtime, we opted for smaller meals, the creamed cauliflower, turmeric and caramelised red onion soup for me while man about the house chose the six lamb and pumpkin croquettes. Both were delicious and just the perfect size; we gave them the thumbs up. Interestingly, I later spotted a review on the restaurant’s Facebook page which was full of praise and ended with the comment: ‘Come to Auckland!’ My sentiments exactly.

After spending the best part of two hours there we were reluctant to leave but knowing we had just enough time to view the newly developed Lake Hood subdivision, built around canals with boating facilities and reserves, we made a beeline for the estate – very attractive.

With no time left to linger we made for the bus stop, said goodbye to our friends and were soon on our way back to Christchurch – a most pleasant way to spending a clement autumn Sunday!

FOOD FOR FOODIES!

Back in Christchurch for our fifth trip over the past couple of years, our holidays always include dining out as it did this time round.

As usual the Ibis Hotel, located next to The Square, and an easy walk to shops and restaurants, was both comfortable and inexpensive.

However, this time we were disappointed that the restaurant and bar were closed, the hotel having been mothballed for four months and only recently up and running again.

We had been advised that while the full buffet breakfast wouldn’t be available, our room price did include the Continental buffet which turned out to be pretty darned good – plenty of hot, crispy pastries, including yum croissants, a range of toast breads and various spreads, a selection of cold cuts and cheese, muffins, fruit, cereals and yoghurt, fruit juices, hot drinks and more. We did okay!

Although our plans included dining out Saturday and Sunday night, we meant to eat in on the day we arrived but instead headed for nearby Merivale to highly recommended Italian restaurant, Tutto Bene – rustic setting with a real sense of warmth and a lovely outdoor area when the weather calls for it.

Since settling in Pukekohe I have missed the presence of a neighbourhood Italian restaurant – we have to travel to Volare (in The Gardens estate at Manurewa) to find meals like our friend’s Nonna cooks! Subsequently, we relished our evening at this family style restaurant in Christchurch although our waiter apologised for a slightly reduced menu, the result of Covid-19 ups and downs.

Nevertheless, we were well pleased with our pasta dishes although my delicious potato gnocchi with pumpkin, chargrilled zucchini and peas, finished with goat cheese, crispy sage and pinenuts was extremely filling. That didn’t stop me from ordering the amaretto-infused pannacotta dessert — silky, wobbly and just the right size! We left replete.

Saturday night was another treat. A night with friends at Fiddlesticks Bar & Restaurant, near the new art gallery, was all about beautifully presented, sophisticated food, good service and an upbeat urban environment. We highly recommend this restaurant to Christchurch visitors; undoubtedly, we will return.

Finally, our third evening was totally unexpected. We had booked to dine at the Terrace Tavern a short walk from the Ibis and nestled amongst a string of dining venues. Having sussed out the menu earlier, it looked just right but on arrival the wine prices left us reeling – $25.50 for a 250ml glass of Church Road McDonald Merlot.

We politely excused ourselves and thought to just grab a curry from the Indian restaurant opposite the hotel (fellow guests recommended it). However, on waking back we passed a dark and busy pub called, Rockpool.

Although a bit Billy-basic on the outside, on the urgings of two departing women patrons, we decided to try it. It was a great little find. The special of the night was ribs, chips and a glass of house wine for $20 but we finally opted for the roast – choice of lamb or pork – two for $30! A glass of middle of the road shiraz cost $8 each. Naturally, that called for more than one wine, after all, we were walking.

We thoroughly enjoyed our hearty roasts, were well attended by cheerful staff and felt right at home amongst the down to earth crowd. And, that completed our dining experiences although, before departing Christchurch, we did do a bit of food shopping.

The Riverside Market, located in an interior laneway, close to The Terrace, was a feast for the eyes and stomach. So many great artisan shops from the Charing Cross Cheesery to Little Fish & Co, The Butcher’s Mistress and shopper’s treat, the Mediterranean Food Co. too name just a few.

I bought Italian pasta from the latter and would have bought more but then realised I could buy online which seemed the easy option as it was at other tantalising food stalls. However, after walking

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around the idea of sitting at the boutique cellar door of Mischief with Wine was too good to resist.

There we met winemaker and director, Adam Bennett who introduced us to four of his wines which turned out to be surprisingly good.

I came home with the Waipara Pinot Gris – unusual for me, as I’m not really a white wine drinker, but this was deliciously refreshing – and also Mischief’s Pinot Noir, also a bit of a punt as I prefer bolshier reds such as shiraz. However, this did appeal and we will share with pinot friends.

Adam told me he and his three partners took the concept of a cellar door, down-sized it and brought it to the busy Riverside Market which he proclaimed to be “one of the coolest communities about.” I couldn’t argue with that.

Once again, it would be lovely to see something similar closer to home – I guess the French Market in Parnell and the Clevedon Farmers Market do the trick but lack the Riverside Market’s all enveloping atmosphere with its, provincial feel of bricks and a nod to industrialism too. What’s more, it’s very accessible when the weather turns sour. All up, Christchurch re-affirmed my long-held view that this is a most desirable city to visit.

It’s leafy nature, emphasis on creative architecture, eclectic restaurants and many individual boutique stores, as well as the distinctive Ballentyne’s, which steps beyond the bounds of an ordinary department store, confirms this belief and makes me want more. The Riverside Market.

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