Issue 15: One night in Tokyo (Sake cover)

In July 2017, a brand-new theater opened in Tokyo’s Yurakucho area. Named Alternative Theatre, this state-of-the-art venue will bring exciting performance art to the masses.

The main goal of the venue is to create high-quality entertainment that appeals to both Japanese locals and visitors from around the world by providing nonverbal performances and music.

Alternative Theatre implements state-of-the-art technology, including a fly system and LEDs that cover the walls and ceiling of the interior. No matter where your seat may be among the 410 available, you will be treated to exciting performances unique only to Alternative Theatre.

ACCESS

Hello Tokyo…

Inside

Thirsty? We bet you are after taking a look at the cover of this mag, which features either a suggestive serving of sake or a seductive sakura cocktail.

That’s right – we’ve gone all out and created two distinct covers for our ultimate guide to Tokyo nightlife, an intoxicating tour through the capital’s finest bars, waterfront spots and romantic restaurants. Head straight to page 20 for everything you need to plan an unforgettable night out in Tokyo, be it on your own, in the company of friends, or with that special someone. And if your idea of a perfect after-dark adventure includes tasting our cover cocktail, well that’s available at the Tenderly bar in Omori – see tinyurl.com/TOTtenderly for details.

July-September 2017

PAGE 20

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Cooking up a storm Meet Tokyo’s most exciting young chefs

PAGE 36

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Just add water Kentaro Imai: the man with grand designs for communal bathing

PAGE 46

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How to get wet and wild this summer

Discover a whole new side of the ancient capital

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Secret Kyoto

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Making a splash

CHEF: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. KYOTO: HIROYUKI SUMI

PAGE 61

PAGE 66 â FEATURES AND REGULARS

06 Tokyo Update 10 To Do 16 Courtesy calls 20 One night in Tokyo 36 Eating & Drinking 42 Shopping & Style 46 Art & Culture 50 Music 54 Nightlife 59 Film 61 Sport 64 LGBT 66 Travel & Hotels 70 Getting Around 74 You know you’re in Tokyo when…

Cover Art direction: Steve Nakamura Photography: Naohiro Tsukada Bartender: Yuko Miyazaki Time Out Tokyo Inc. 5-9-9-101 Hiroo, Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0012 +81 (0)3 5792 5721 www.timeout.com/tokyo Advertising and general enquiries: info@timeout.jp

Consulting Editor Marcus Webb Editors Yukako Izumi izumi@timeout.jp Ili Saarinen ilisaarinen@timeout.jp Mayumi Koyama

koyama@timeout.jp Kaila Imada kailaimada@timeout.jp Designers Yuki Masuko Chikako Fukui Mayumi Hashimoto Staff Writers

Hiroyuki Sumi Kunihiro Miki Mari Hiratsuka Shiori Kotaki Kirsty Bouwers Satomi Saruwatari Staff Photographers Keisuke Tanigawa

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Kisa Toyoshima Administration Momo Ando Creative Solutions Mao Kawakami Takahiro Takeuchi Miyuki Miyama Julia Carvell

Distribution Satoru Akiba Creative Solutions Director Akiko Toya President/Publisher Hiroyuki Fushitani Chairman Hiroshi Hasegawa

Time Out Digital 4th Floor, 125 Shaftesbury Avenue, London,WC2H 8AD www.timeout.com +44 (0)207 813 3000

International Managing Director David Woodley CEO Noel Penzer Time Out Group CEO Julio Bruno Founder Tony Elliott

July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Tokyo Update

WHAT YOU SAID

City FAQ NO SMOKE WITHOUT IRE

Tokyo needs to decide whether it wants to stay nicotine-stained for 2020 Japan may be renowned for its healthy cuisine, but we sure are behind the international curve when it comes to one major public health issue: smoking in public places.

While smoking outside in non-designated spaces (or while walking) is considered a social sin, people lighting up indoors without a care in the world is common across the nation. For many visitors to our dear city, these smoking laws feel like the world has been flipped upside down, and with the Olympics on the way, calls for a complete ban on indoor puffing are growing louder and louder.

A new bill first proposed by the government in late 2016 would make it mandatory for restaurants and bars to install separate smoking rooms with proper ventilation or go completely smoke-free. However, this draft – even after being watered down – is facing heavy opposition from several directions, with the partially governmentowned tobacco company Japan Tobacco and the restaurant industry leading the resistance alongside pro-smoking politicians.

At least the health ministry seems behind the ban, citing Japan’s feeble attempts to prevent passive smoking in particular. The World Health Organisation has labelled the country’s current efforts ‘among the world’s worst’, with an estimated 15,000 deaths a year due to secondhand smoke. Whether a ban will eventually help tip the scales in the right direction remains to be seen – we’ll keep holding our breath at our local izakaya in the meantime.

TOKYO LOVES...

Here’s what you tweeted in response...

‘The government shouldn’t even own anything, let alone a cash cow like Japan Tobacco’ ‘Typical US-induced nonsense – it should stay the way it is!’

‘FINALLY’ ‘Just ban the damn smoke’

FLOATING PUMPKINS

The recent, immensely popular Yayoi Kusama exhibition at the National Art Center may have finished, but there’s still plenty of pumpkin action at the newly opened Ginza Six, where half a dozen of the contemporary artist’s polka-dotted squashes are hanging from the ceiling.

PIKOTARO

Everyone’s favourite Japanese viral hit hero, the PPAP mastermind has managed to extend his popularity lifespan beyond apples, pens and pineapples in song form – first receiving a ‘Pineapple Appreciation Award’ from Dole and then going on to promote LED lights with Tokyo governor Yuriko Koike. à tinyurl.com/totpikotaro

PIGEON HEELS

The idea for ‘pigeon heels’ spontaneously popped up in designer Keiko Otsuhata’s mind one day, and as you do, she immediately set out to create a pair of pigeon-like shoes. The felt creations turned out rather life-like, and when she took her pins out for a stroll in Ueno Park to make friends with some of the living birds, the video of her shoes cooing the feathered residents became a viral sensation. à tinyurl.com/pigeonheels Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

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GINZA SIX: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. PIGEON HEELS: KEIKO OTSUHATA. PPAP: SATORU AKIBA

à tinyurl.com/totginzakusama

‘Light at the end of the tunnel after decades of hell!’

RELEASE THE YEAST

WHERE IN TOKYO IS THIS?

Fermented food is a timehonoured Japanese tradition.

Here are two places putting a modern spin on the waiting game

With its owl-motif exterior and very ’70s-inspired interior, this building was designed by an architect known as ‘Japan’s Gaudi’.

It houses an office, apartments and a dangerously cheap izakaya where a large highball will set you back just ¥300. After a few of those the already out-there designs will really look out of this world.

PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

85 (HACHIGO)

à To find the answer, visit tinyurl. com/totwhereintokyo15

THAT’LL TEACH YOU

Three ways to learn Japanese culture

ANALOG

TSUTAYA BOOKS GINZA SIX

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Ginza Six opened in April with a fanfare usually reserved for the second coming, but thankfully the high-class department store has some highlights that just about justify the hype. One of these is the Tsutaya bookstore, which has a huge selection of books on Nippon culture in both English and Japanese. Once you’ve picked your favourite, sit down at the adjacent Starbucks and begin your history lesson over a frappuccino.

When it comes to fermented food this new shop, part of the Nakameguro Koukashita complex, plays it old school. As the name implies, it offers 85 items – including sauces, sakes and cheeses – all created using time-honoured preservation techniques.

Highlights of the 85 are the hard-to-get varieties of miso, vinegar and soy sauce, all guaranteed to add pep to the most listless meal. DIY fermentors can join the ¥1,944 ‘My Nuka Service’ monthly plan. This sees the shop keep nuka (rice bran used for pickling) for you in a temperature-controlled room and you, and only you, will be allowed to touch your box of bran while it ages. Now that’s funky service. à tinyurl.com/tothachigo

à tinyurl.com/totginzasix

APP

DUOLINGO JAPANESE

One of the most popular language learning apps going, Duolingo launched its Japanese edition on iOS in late May and on Android in mid-June. Primarily targeted at beginner and intermediate learners, the app teaches you words and phrases in fun, innovative ways, such as showing you the hiragana characters needed to create simple words rather than teaching you the entire alphabet first. It definitely makes you feel as if you’re getting immediate, tangible results – perfect if you’re only here for a short time.

NIPPON NO HITOSARA

The &Tokyo brand was developed by the metro government to boost tourism in Tokyo and beyond, and their latest range of videos should do the trick. These 360-degree clips are taken in places across Tokyo and Tohoku, and divided by season and theme (food, fireworks and much more). Think a virtual-reality travel experience which shows some underappreciated sides of Japan: great to inspire you to leave the hotel room/office/izakaya and get out there.

Bringing out the best in fish through fermentation: that’s the driving idea behind this new Marunouchi restaurant. Using local catches and fermented seasonings from ports across the country, Nippon no Hitosara has conjured up some inventive combinations: definitely try the sashimi with Shiboritate kiage shoyu – freshly pressed, unpasteurised and unfiltered soy sauce that’s been fermented but not strained. Soy sauce (and the fish, of course) doesn’t get much fresher than this. Their lunch sets are very good value too, although you might have to get there early to grab one of the ¥1,000 teishoku (set meals): two of the four sets are only served to ten customers daily.

à www.tohokuandtokyo.org/virtualtour

à tinyurl.com/totnipponnohitosara

à www.duolingo.com/courses

VIDEO

TOHOKU&TOKYO 360 VIDEOS

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July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

TOKYO UPDATE

HOW DO YOU WANT THAT?

LOCAL LEGENDS

PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

Three Tokyo places offering truly customisable cuisine

THE COUNTER ROPPONGI

Santa Monica-born chain The Counter boasts that it’s made over a million custom burgers since its founding in 2003 and is now adding to that tally with its first Japan outlet. The ordering system here is a long, long list of choices: you’re able to pick exactly what type of patty, cheese, sauce and topping you’d like, meaning there are over 312,120 different combinations. Just don’t take anyone indecisive.

#15: Shotaro Kamijo, the travelling bartender IF YOU EVER HAPPEN to spot a lightly worn,

white cart stacked full of alcohol on your nightly adventures, be sure to stop the person pushing it for a drink. In a city full of curious watering holes, bar-on-the-go Twillo has to be one of the most eccentric. Mixing drinks in candlelight and pouring them into Baccarat glasses is Shotaro Kamijo, who has been roaming Tokyo’s streets with his cart since 2006.

After stints as a banker and a secretary for the Japanese Diet (parliament), Kamijo decided to go into the mobile boozing business after looking for a job that would give him three things: opportunities for selfrealisation, freedom and a living wage.

At first, he camped out at the gingko treelined street in front of Meiji Jingu Gaien park, 365 nights a year, come rain or shine. After taking a two-year break to explore running for parliament, Kamijo now travels across the city every night, publicising his current location

Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

only through poetic entries on his Twitter feed.

Although finding Twillo can be devilishly difficult, especially if you don’t read Japanese, it’s absolutely worth the trouble.

Kamijo serves up a snappy selection of beer, wine, spirits, cocktails and Cuban cigars. The magic of Twillo is in its power to turn a piece of any old city street into a party place by drawing in passers-by from all walks of life for new and unlikely encounters.

Although pushing the cart around unfamiliar neighbourhoods and starting out fresh every night can feel tough at times, the man behind Twillo says he loves what he does. ‘Meeting a diverse cast of customers makes it all worth it,’ Kamijo assures us. Keep your eyes open after dark and you just might find yourself stumbling upon his outlandish operation.

à Find Twillo on Twitter @Twillo0 8

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

à tinyurl.com/totcounterroppongi

BAR AMARENA

At this ‘customised’ Aoyama restaurant, you can choose virtually everything yourself, from the ingredients to be used for your meal to its size and even the cooking method employed. They display their daily changing, colourful ingredients in a glass case so you can see exactly what you’re paying for, and the female chefs – who are all very energetic – make it your way. à tinyurl.com/totbaramarena

PULP DELI & CAFÉ

A café where you can customise your meal to your liking, with a heavy emphasis of fresh veg and vegan items. However you put your bento box together, if the sun’s out get it to go: the neighbouring park is a lovely lunch spot. à tinyurl.com/totpulpdeli

KEEPING IT COOL

CITY DISPATCHES

How to not succumb to the sweltering summer heat

A FORGETTABLE MEAL

IMAGE FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY

With Japanese society greying at a rapid pace, the number of people living with dementia is hitting new records every year.

Although this obviously causes all sorts of social issues, not everyone is succumbing to the doom and gloom often associated with the theme. Take a recent, rather special popup eatery in Toyosu. Named ‘The Restaurant of Order Mistakes’, it was run by employees with dementia, meaning that the chances of your order being forgotten or mixed up were quite high. One customer reported having their hamburger order turned into a set of gyoza, but knowing that the staff had dementia, they noted that they left with a deeper understanding of what it meant to have the disease and how to deal with it.

The restaurant was opened by a group of organisations, including the host, Maggie’s Tokyo, a support centre for those affected by cancer. Although this pop-up only lasted for one weekend in June, another edition is in the works for September 21, which is World Alzheimer’s Day. Don’t forget...

FIREWORKS: COURTESY OF SUMIDA WARD. ASE-WAKI SHEETS: KISA TOYOSHIMA

à maggiestokyo.org

FIERY SKIES Japan doesn’t do daylight saving time, preferring to start with a 4am sunrise rather than end with a 10pm sunset.

While this can be troubling for those with thin curtains, it does make for some fantastic firework displays over the summer.

The season usually lasts from July to late August, but the problem at the moment is that the construction for the Olympics is going on at the exact places usually used to set off fireworks. This meant one of

the largest among the festivals, the Tokyo Bay Fireworks, was cancelled last year and won’t be returning this year either.

Another favourite, Jingu Gaien, barely escaped the same fate and is back on track for August 20. Most cracker parties out in the ’burbs, in addition to the venerable Sumida River Fireworks, seem a-go at least. Keep your eyes on our website for more information and sudden cancellations.

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WATERMELON UMBRELLAS

Whether it’s to stay dry in rainy season or to dodge the rays during the hot summer months, Tokyoites are rarely seen without an umbrella. This watermelon-decorated specimen caught our eye and has been popping up on the streets, bringing a little splash of colour and fun to everyone’s day. Get yours at 3coins stores across the city, where a kids’ version (not as small as it sounds) retails for a mere ¥300 (plus tax). à www.3coins.jp

SHARI KAKIGORI

It sounds so simple – shaved ice topped with syrup – but kakigori truly is a lifesaver on those days when a bottle of water just won’t cut it. New flavours (tiramisu or caramel, anyone?) and trends (Taiwanese-style with loads of fruit) have been popping up in recent years, but this year’s innovation prize has to go to Kurazushi, a cheapas-chips conveyor-belt sushi chain that decided to create a version flavoured with shari (vinegared sushi rice). Priced at ¥230, it’s available at Kurazushi outlets across the country until September 14. A bit too much for you? They offer mango, matcha-azuki and strawberry options too. à www.kura-corpo.co.jp

ASE-WAKI SHEETS AND PADS

Literally ‘armpit sweat sheets’ (or pads), these little gems may not keep you cool per se, but at least they’ll make you look the part. If you’re using a sheet, cut a bit to the correct size and stick it right onto your armpit; if a pad, stick one on your clothing, right where your armpit goes. Heat- and humidityinduced body fluids will be kept fully in check this way, although body odour prevention is not included. Ase-waki sheets can be found in most drugstores.

July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

TO

DO TIMEOUT.COM/TOKYO

What’s on in town July-September 2017

DON’T MISS

Things to do Earth Garden Summer

Every three months Tokyo’s ecologists, horticulturists and hippies descend on Yoyogi Park for the quarterly Earth Garden.

The summer edition will feature the usual plethora of organicminded stalls, food booths and workshops, with the addition of a night-time flea market and live music from acts including nu-jazz outfit Lotus Land, indie poppers Nonburari, rapper TKda Kurobuchi and dubdancehall foursome Nego. àJul 1-2. 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTearthsummer. Free entry.

JULY

garden which is spread out on one of the nearby lawns. àJul 1-Sep 10. 4015-1 Yanokuchi, Inagi. tinyurl.com/ TOTpoolwai1. Pool entrance ¥3,200, high school and junior high students ¥2,500, younger children ¥2,100.

One-day pass (includes unlimited rides at the theme park and pool entrance) ¥6,000/¥4,800/¥4,400.

THINGS TO DO ECO EDO NIHONBASHI ART AQUARIUM

FILM ALAIN DELON PROGRAMME

THINGS TO DO POOL WAI

Yomiuri Land’s summer-only outdoor pool area is opening again, so get ready to enjoy a total of five pools, several water slides and lots of fun events. Chill at the Anpanman pool before heading over to the curvy slides and the tidal joys of the wave pool. Adults will also enjoy the night-time beer Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

In the ’60s and ’70s, French charmer Alain Delon was one of the most popular actors in Japan, where the recent announcement of his upcoming retirement made national headlines. Bunkamura’s Le Cinéma looks back at Delon’s career with this five-film programme, which consists of ‘The Last Adventure’, ‘Any Number Can Win’, ‘La Piscine’, ‘Swann in Love’ and Luchino Visconti’s ‘The Leopard’. All films will be subtitled into Japanese.

THINGS TO DO SHITAMACHI TANABATA MATSURI

Asakusa’s Kappabashi – the famed pilgrimage site for Tokyo chefs looking to kit out their kitchens – is festooned with vibrantly coloured streamers and decorations during this annual summer festival. The best time to visit the Shitamachi Tanabata Matsuri is at the weekend, when local businesses put out stalls and hold parades and street performances.

àJul 1-14. Bunkamura 6F, 2-24-1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTdelon. ¥1,500, students ¥1,100.

àJul 6-10. Kappabashi-dori, Nishi-Asakusa and Matsugaya, Taito. tinyurl.com/TOTshitamachitana. Free.

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Deploying a range of lighting tricks, projection mapping and traditional Japanese motifs, not to mention thousands of live goldfish, self-proclaimed ‘art aquarium producer’ Hidetomo Kimura’s annual exhibition is back again with an eclectic combo of stylised Edo culture and modernday technology. Go after 7pm for good cocktails, great tunes and an even better atmosphere. àJul 7-Sep 24. Nihonbashi Mitsui Hall, 5F Coredo Muromachi, 2-2-1 Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo. tinyurl.com/TOTecoedo2017. ¥1,000, children aged 12 or under ¥600.

TO DO FILM HENTAI ANIMATION NIGHT

Get a taste of some seriously strange animated films at the annual Hentai Anime Night, a celebration of depravity, twisted imaginations and (probably) tentacles. Mainly short flicks from both Japan and abroad are shown over two weeks – a lineup that should manage to mess up the mind of anyone not familiar with this extreme side of Japanese visual culture.

Fuji Rock Festival

MUSIC CORNELIUS

Occasionally referred to as the ‘Japanese Beck’, Keigo ‘Cornelius’ Oyamada has been laying low in recent years. But 2016 saw his solo activities pick up speed, with a US tour preceding the announcement of ‘Mellow Waves’ – his first album in ten years, which was released in June and is the reason for this pair of hometown gigs. àJul 11-12. Liquidroom, 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTcornelius. ¥6,800.

FILM QUALITE FANTASTIC! CINEMA COLLECTION 2017

Shinjuku’s Cinema Qualite holds its annual festival in summer, highlighting an international cast of indie flicks, including a few previously unreleased in Japan.

Jim Jarmusch’s ‘Gimme Danger’, a probing look at the emergence of Iggy Pop’s Stooges, is well worth catching, as are biographical documentary ‘De Palma’ and Russian war drama ‘Battalion’.

Note that all films are screened in their original language with Japanese subtitles.

Gorillaz headline, while The XX, Lorde, Major Lazer, Sampha and Queens of the Stone Age, who last played Fuji Rock back in 2002, should prove to be crowd-pleasers as well.

THINGS TO DO GEINO YAMASHIROGUMI KECAK MATSURI

àJul 28-30. Naeba Ski Resort, 202 Mikuni, Yuzawa, Minami-Uonuma, Niigata. tinyurl.com/TOTfujirock17.

Three days ¥43,000, two days ¥36,000, one day ¥19,000.

Mixing music, dance and drama, kecak is a Balinese invention that was developed in the 1930s.

Tokyoites can experience this alchemedic artform up close when the Geino Yamashirogumi troupe, among the best kecak gangs going, comes to town. Balinese choral dancing with a gamelan ensemble, deer dances, jegog (a form of traditional music played on big bamboo instruments) and more will be combined into a merry mix of shows and workshops.

THINGS TO DO SUMIDA RIVER FIREWORKS FESTIVAL Japan’s oldest recorded fireworks festival dates back to 1733, when it was first staged as part of a ceremony to pray for the victims of a severe famine that struck the previous year. Today, it’s by far the largest display in the capital – this year’s will involve more than 22,000 fireworks – and regularly draws close to a million spectators.

àJul 29. Sumida Park, Taito and Sumida. tinyurl.com/ TOTsumida17. Free.

àJul 15-Aug 18. Nowa Bldg B1F, 3-37-12 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. tinyurl.com/TOTqualite2017. ¥1,500/¥1,000 (prices vary by film).

THINGS TO DO SUMOMO MATSURI

According to legend, 11th-century warlord Minamoto no Yoriyoshi and his son Yoshiie stopped to pray for victory in an ongoing war at this Fuchu shrine. Their wish was granted, and the Sumomo (named after the plum that Yoriyoshi is said to have offered to the gods) festival began. You’ll be able to try the plums for yourself at the many food stalls set up on the grounds. àJul 20. Okunitama Shrine, 3-1 Miyamachi, Fuchu. tinyurl.com/TOTsumomo. Free entry.

MUSIC FUJI ROCK FESTIVAL ’17

The biggest and most beautiful of Japan’s summer music festivals, Fuji Rock once again returns to Niigata prefecture’s Naeba, welcoming a beefy lineup of both international superstars and local heroes. Björk, Aphex Twin and

MUSIC SUMMER SONIC 2017

àAug 2-6. Shinjuku Mitsui Building 55Hiroba, 2-1-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku. tinyurl.com/TOTkecak. Free.

Held in the soulless concrete expanses of Chiba’s QVC Marine Field and Makuhari Messe, a half-hour train ride from Tokyo Station, Summer Sonic makes up in convenience for what it lacks in atmosphere. This year’s lineup is as eclectic as ever, with the Foo Fighters and Calvin Harris set to rub shoulders with bubblegumpunk boys 5 Seconds of Summer, electro-dance queen Charli XCX and, yes, Pikotaro of PenPineapple-Apple-Pen fame.

THINGS TO DO ASAGAYA BALI DANCE FESTIVAL

àAug 19-20. 2-1 Nakase, Mihama, Chiba. tinyurl. com/TOTsummersonic17. Two days ¥30,500, one day ¥16,500.

Asagaya’s annual Bali festival supplies two evenings of free gamelan and traditional Indonesian dance. Bonus marks to anyone who can explain exactly why there’s a Balinese festival held in Asagaya every year, but it sounds like a pretty tempting proposition either way.

All that dancing is bound to make you hungry, so don’t forget to check out the many food stalls selling Indonesian eats and beer.

AUGUST

àAug 12-25. Human Trust Cinema Shibuya, Cocoti 7-8F, 1-23-16 Shibuya, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOThentaifilm. ¥1,500.

àAug 5-6. Asagaya Shinmeiguu Shrine, 1-25-5 Asagaya-Kita, Suginami. tinyurl.com/TOTasabali.

Free entry.

MUSIC WORLD HAPPINESS

Argentinian performance troupe Fuerza Bruta has captivated audiences in over 30 countries and now it’s Japan’s turn with a Nippon-themed spectacle. The standing-only audience can expect a visually impressive dance-rave thrill ride that merges striking imagery with techno music and aerial showboating.

The family-friendly World Happiness is one of those rare summer music festivals going on right here in Tokyo. The playit-safe lineup is usually veteranheavy (think Yukihiro Takahashi and Denki Groove), but this year’s edition also features young blood in the form of glitchy pop starlet Zombie-Chang and guitarist Yuri Miyauchi. There’s a special discount for parents with children of elementary-school age or younger.

àAug 1-Sep 30. Stellar Ball (Shinagawa Prince Hotel), 4-10-30 Takanawa, Minato. tinyurl.com/ TOTfuerza. ¥7,600.

àAug 6. Kasai Rinkai Park, 6-2 Rinkaicho, Edogawa. tinyurl.com/TOTworldhappy. ¥10,800, children aged 6-12 ¥1,500.

THEATRE WA! WONDER JAPAN EXPERIENCE

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THINGS TO DO ASAKUSA SAMBA CARNIVAL

More than 20 teams of elaborately attired dancers flood the streets of Asakusa for this samba carnival, the largest in Japan. The carnival is now one of Tokyo’s more popular summer events, drawing half a million spectators to watch the performers shake their tail feathers to the Brazilian beat as they work their way around the neighbourhood. àAug 26. Central Asakusa. tinyurl.com/ TOTasakusasamba. Free.

July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

TO DO laptop-busting antics of superstar DJs including Alesso, Kygo, The Chainsmokers and Steve Aoki, plus live performances by Empire of the Sun, Pendulum and Porter Robinson. àSep 16-18. Symbol Promenade Park, Koto. tinyurl. com/TOTultra17. Three days ¥39,000, one day ¥13,000.

THINGS TO DO NEZU SHRINE FESTIVAL

Super Yosakoi

THINGS TO DO SUPER YOSAKOI FESTIVAL 2017

The original yosakoi dance started life in Kochi in 1954, where it was intended to help revitalise the struggling post-war economy, and Tokyo’s own Super Yosakoi festival has been going for over a decade now. The event sees 100-odd teams of brightly attired dancers trying to outdo each other as they strut their stuff to the rhythm of the ‘naruko’ – a type of clapper that the people of Kochi originally used to scare birds away from their fields. àAug 26-27. Omotesando, Meiji Jingu and Yoyogi Park. tinyurl.com/TOTsuperyosakoi. Free.

MUSIC SUKIYAKI TOKYO

Taking place in Toyama prefecture every year, Japan’s most prestigious world music festival Sukiyaki Meets the World has been going strong since 1991. This smaller-scale Tokyo version of the fest is held at Shibuya’s WWW and this year will feature appearances by the likes of Mauritanian harp player Noura Mint Seymali, dreamy indie folk artist Klô Pelgag from Québec and ’Turkey’s Björk’, Gaye Su Akyol. àAug 29-30. WWW and WWW X, Rise Bldg, 13-17 Udagawacho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTsukiyaki17.

Two days ¥8,500, one day ¥5,000.

Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

to enjoy laidback tunes courtesy of domestic indie favourites including Hanaregumi, Asako Toki, Glim Spanky and Trio Ohashi at a traditional temple down in the southern suburbs.

SEPTEMBER MUSIC TOKYO JAZZ FESTIVAL

Japan’s biggest jazz festival always features a highly diverse lineup of artists and venues, with concerts at NHK Hall complemented by more intimate shows at WWW in Shibuya plus free gigs held along Yoyogi Park’s Keyaki Namiki street. This year’s headliners include Chick Corea, Al Di Meola, Peter Erskine and Gonzalo Rubalcaba.

àSep 1-3. 1-1-1 Ikegami, Ota. tinyurl.com/ TOTslowlive17. Three days ¥18,500, two days ¥13,400, one day ¥8,000 (Sep 1 ¥6,800).

MUSIC ULTRA JAPAN 2017

The first three Tokyo versions of Miami-born EDM spectacle Ultra have all been smashing successes and this fourth edition looks set to follow suit. Revellers dressed in neon and frills will be descending on Odaiba to enjoy the

àSep 1-3. NHK Hall, WWW, WWW X, Yoyogi Park. tinyurl.com/TOTjazz17. NHK Hall concerts from ¥3,800, WWW gigs ¥3,800, outdoor gigs free.

MUSIC SLOW LIVE ’17

One of summer’s most popular music festivals, Ikegami Honmonji’s annual Slow Music Slow Live returns for the 14th year in a row. This is your chance

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A centuries-old highlight at a shrine that itself dates back to 1706, this downtown classic isn’t that different from your usual matsuri (traditional festival) – think dance and music, food stalls and plenty of sweaty folks in ‘happi’ coats – but always attracts an energetic crowd which engulfs the entire, otherwise quaint and unassuming, neighbourhood. àSep 16-17. Nezu Shrine, 1-28-9 Nezu, Bunkyo. tinyurl.com/TOTnezufest. Free.

THINGS TO DO NAMASTE INDIA

The nation’s biggest Indian festival returns to Yoyogi Park with traditional music and other performances, including a healthy smattering of dances to keep the kids entertained.

You can also try wearing a sari, relax with yoga, enter raffles and peruse the food booths set up by some of Tokyo’s top Indian eateries. àSep 23-24. 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTnamaste. Free entry.

Promotional feature

FIVE REASONS TO CHECK OUT THE A HIGHLIGHT AMONG Japan’s art festivals, the Yokohama Triennale returns for its sixth edition this August and will again centre on the Yokohama Museum of Art and its immediate surrounds. Big-name international participants include Ai Weiwei, Maurizio Cattelan and Olafur Eliasson, while other artists will be highlighting the physical location of the Triennale by creating artworks themed on figures and events from the history of Yokohama.

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Ai Weiwei’s mega-sculptures

Chinese artist Ai Weiwei turns everything from life jackets to bits of furniture into giant sculptures that play on the themes of construction and destruction. The superstar activist’s recent works that draw heavily on the global refugee crisis will be featured in the Triennale.

Artworks by one of Italy’s greatest satirists

Italian photography mag ‘Toiletpaper’ is one of the most surreal publications of its kind, and the offbeat visual landscape it plays with is echoed in co-founder Maurizio Cattelan’s provocative sculptures and artworks. Tough subjects and striking visuals dot Cattelan’s CV, from an installation featuring Pope John Paul II struck by a meteorite in Paris to a solid gold toilet in New York’s Guggenheim. We can’t wait to see what the art world’s resident prankster brings to Yokohama.

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It’s in Japan’s most cosmopolitan city

In the mid-1800s, when Japan opened up to the rest of the world after 250 years of seclusion, the city of Yokohama was the first place to bear the fruit of foreign influence. By adopting an open-door policy to both culture and trade back then, the city was soon the most cosmopolitan place in Japan, and remains the country’s cultural melting pot. It’s fitting, then, that the Triennale takes place at venues such as the Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse, a symbol of the city’s international history.

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It’s one of Japan’s most influential art festivals

International art showcases have become all the rage in Japan over the past few years, with dozens of festivals taking place every year around the country. But most of these still look rather green when compared to the Yokohama Triennale, which has been going since 2001 and again invites around 40 internationally renowned contributors to take part.

Maurizio CATTELAN, Spermini, 1997, Photo: Attilio Maranzano Courtesy: Maurizio Cattelan’s Archive and Perrotin gallery

YOKOHAMA TRIENNALE

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There will be a giant monster, too

Not many international art festivals can boast an appearance by an overgrown radioactive lizard, but it seems like the Yokohama Triennale is doing things differently.

Take the rubble-shaped creation complete with a Godzilla-style eye, set to stare ominously at visitors in the basement of the 100-year-old Yokohama Port Opening Memorial Hall throughout the festival.

AI Weiwei, Reframe, 2016, Exhibition view at Palazzo Strozzi, Photo: Alessandro Moggi ©Ai Weiwei Studio

THE INFOGRAPHIC

Drinking by numbers Ili Saarinen reveals the statistics behind the city’s booze scene

15.4

63%

191,000

That’s how many hangover days per year us Tokyoites admitted to in Time Out’s recent worldwide City Index Survey – we’re clearly hardier than the drinkers of Sydney and London, who claimed 24.5 and 23.3 respectively.

Almost two thirds of us think there’s nothing wrong with enjoying a tipple over lunch. That’s trailing only Barcelona (69%), Sydney (68%) and Mexico City (68%).

Hopefully the city’s bus drivers, lifeguards and operators of heavy machinery are in the remaining 37%.

Almost 200,000 people work in Tokyo’s boozing business – a figure that adds up to just over six employees per establishment, or the total population of Salt Lake City, Utah, where bars are, uh, less prevalent.

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26%

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Our City Index also revealed we visit a bar or pub only 23 times a year, or less than once every two weeks. Really?

That’s far behind Paris with 44, or even Chicago with 39. A poll in our office would result in very different numbers, but let’s not go there now.

38%

At least when Tokyoites do go out, we stay out. The amount of us who engage in the occasional all-nighter is – according to our survey – a global high.

Hey, what else are you going to do after missing your last train home? Not sleep at McDonalds, that’s for sure.

Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

The most baffling number in our survey – only 26 percent of Tokyoites agree with the claim that ‘There are always great bars to go to in the city’. Flip on over to page 20 and prepare to have your eyes opened and your world rocked.

The average number of hours a ‘nomihodai’ (all-you-can-drink) deal lasts at izakayas, pubs and even hotels (see page 56) in Tokyo. Being allowed to literally drink as much as you can handle over 120 minutes can sound anywhere from too good to be true to flat out deadly, depending on your perspective, but it’s a common arrangement at watering holes throughout Japan.

30,887 ¥7,500

According to government data from 2014, that’s the total amount of bars, pubs and clubs in Tokyo. Hard to believe? Hey, Shinjuku’s Golden Gai alone has over 270, while Ginza has around 350.

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According to your City Index responses, that’s the cost of a typical night out in Tokyo. Doesn’t even sound too steep in light of what ‘a typical night out’ entails: drinks at the bar, clubbing, karaoke and a monster bowl of ramen to fuel your trek home.

TRANSCREATING TOKYO

How to watch kabuki Takeo Funabiki lays out a beginner’s guide to the traditional art form CONSTANTLY DRAWING SELLOUT crowds, kabuki theatre has

emerged strong from its slump in the latter half of the 20th century and is quickly becoming an essential experience for visitors to Tokyo. But how do you go about catching a show, and what’s the best way to get tickets? Here’s a veteran watcher’s guide for all you first-timers out there.

WHERE SHOULD I GO?

Nothing beats the Kabukiza Theatre in Higashi-Ginza. Don’t think I’m getting paid by the promoter – this simply is the best place for first-time viewers.

WHAT SHOULD I WATCH?

Before you do anything else, take a look at the Kabukiza’s website. Given the choice between performances this month, next month and the month after that, I’d look at the ones furthest down the line. Tickets have not gone on sale for these yet, so you’ll have a better chance of getting good seats.

There are both daytime and night-time performances, but if time isn’t an issue, just choose according to the programme or actors you prefer. Being even slightly familiar with the play or actors you’re about to see helps make the classics more accessible.

It’s fun to watch someone you’re familiar with from magazines or TV perform in the flesh.

If the show you’ve picked has a lineup of three or four performances, make sure to watch one classics programme and one dance programme. The classics may be difficult to understand, but watching kabuki while trying to avoid these is pointless, and the dances are fun to watch even if you don’t understand what’s going on.

varying by category – always try picking a seat as close as possible to the stage. One-act plays are good for tourists who only want to ‘experience’ kabuki, but I wouldn’t recommend them to first-timers interested in the genre.

Telling the difference between different types of performances can be a challenge, so make sure to look the details up online beforehand.

HOW DO I BUY TICKETS?

Try online, again. The same goes for popular movies, but I don’t recommend heading over expecting to get tickets on the door. That’s because where you sit will have a significant impact on how enjoyable the show will be. A kabuki theatre is much larger than a cinema, meaning that the actors will appear small and far away, and you won’t be able to rely on closeups like at the movies or big-screen replays like at a baseball game.

There are three categories of tickets, with prices obviously

WHAT ELSE SHOULD I KNOW?

Once at the Kabukiza for your performance, consider renting an audio guide. This includes real-time explanations on what’s happening on stage – not recorded, but ‘live commentary’ by a professional somewhere in the theatre. The printed programme, meanwhile, is a bit pricey and hardly necessary, but makes for a nice souvenir to bring back home.

All that’s left now is to watch.

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Even if you don’t understand the lines at times or can’t make out the lyrics in the accompaniment, don’t worry about it. Even experienced watchers don’t grasp every tiny detail. Anyway, as long as you’re watching, you can generally understand what’s happening on stage.

You’ll be impressed by the rapid movements of the actors, and fascinated by the costumes and mechanisms. Beyond this, don’t ask too much of yourself: the key is to just clear your mind and take it all in.

à Check out the Kabukiza Theatre’s website at kabuki-bito.jp/ theaters/kabukiza.

July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Courtesy calls

ILLUSTRATION BY BUNNY BISSOUX

Congratulations, you’ve been invited to a Japanese wedding!

Now, after the first giddiness has receded, it’s time to think about how the hell you’re actually going to get through it without making a culturally insensitive fool of yourself.

Luckily, we’re here to help.

Kirsty Bouwers

DON’T: FORGET TO RSVP (WHETHER YOU’RE GOING OR NOT)

A Japanese ‘hiroen’, a fancy wedding ceremony often held at an upscale hotel’s banquet room, is a unique experience, so move heaven and earth to be there. Either way do not forget to send back the slip that came with the invitation card, filled in properly to show whether or not you will be attending.

Circle 出席 (‘shusseki’) if you’re coming or 欠席 (‘kesseki’) if you, for some inexplicable reason, will not be able to make it – presumably you are in prison or trapped under something heavy.

DO: GO ALL ’80S PROM DRESS

Yay, slinky cocktail dress time! Think again.

There’s an unspoken dress code that applies to female guests in particular. Channel your inner American high schooler on her way to prom and get yourself a shiny-fabric dress – it’s the one occasion where a bit of sheen is the done thing. Tone down the vivid colours, stick to knee-length (no mini dresses, no maxi dresses) and cover thy shoulders – with a shawl if you have to. Above all, keep those shoes closed. Even at the height of summer, no toes are to be flaunted, no matter how great your Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

pedicure. Men, no white suits (that’s for the groom) nor black ties. And for either sex, the universal rule holds true: whatever you do, please don’t try to outdress the bride.

DON’T: FORGET TO PAY (OR PICK THE WRONG ENVELOPE)

Like anywhere in the world, weddings in Japan cost money. A lot of money. Partially as a way to make up for this, guests are expected (read: required) to ‘donate’ money, known as ‘goshugi’, when attending. ¥30,000 per person for friends and coworkers is the going rate these days in big cities. For a boss or senior colleague, it’s more like ¥50,000. The notes should be ¥10,000 bills which can’t be evenly split (so ¥30k is fine, ¥20k a no no) and go for the flashiest, prettiest envelope you can find – no minimalist business, as the simple envelopes found right next to the ‘shugibukuro’ (wedding money envelopes) at convenience stores are those used for funerals.

Also note that the afterparty (‘nijikai’) has a separate fee, often around ¥10,000. Some choose to skip the hiroen and just go to the nijikai; at the height of wedding season, that choice may be the last thing standing between

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you and abject poverty.

DO: LOOK UNDER YOUR SEAT

The upside of having to pay for a wedding is that it comes with a lot of goodies. And not for the newlyweds, but for you, the humble guest. When the hiroen starts clearing out and everyone starts heading home or to the afterparty, be sure to grab the bag located under your seat; it’s not a life vest, but a ‘hikidemono’, a well-stocked goodie bag. Contents can range from expensive confectionery to tableware and even a gift catalogue (letting you pick out something you actually want).

DON’T: PARTY TOO HARD

Contrary to wedding ceremonies in some countries (we’re looking at you, Great Britain), a Japanese reception is not the place to get sloshed, dance on the table or try to snog one of the bridesmaids/best men. The hiroen is for being somewhat solemn and civilly tipsy, with the only emotion coming into play being some light tears shed upon watching the video of the newlyweds’ journey to romance. Upside? No obnoxious drunken uncles.

Stay strong, Kumamoto Two powerful earthquakes hit Kyushu’s Kumamoto prefecture on April 14 and 16, killing at least 49, injuring thousands and forcing many local residents to abandon their homes. Historic Kumamoto Castle also suffered extensive damage. The recovery process is well on its way, but serious challenges still remain. Our thoughts go out to everyone affected by this disaster.

Visit forkumamoto.yahoo.co.jp for more information on how you can help the disaster victims.

LOCAL INSIGHT

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I, TOKYO Alexandra Pasquali-Gaudy Staff member of The Global Families Age: 39

When did you first come to Tokyo, and what made you choose the city as your new home?

I first came to be with my boyfriend, who was studying here in 2011, but we left two years later. We didn’t think another opportunity to live here would come along, but it did! In 2015, we came back to Tokyo on exactly the same date we left two years earlier.

The Global Families (TGF) offers a chance for Japanese and nonJapanese families to meet up. What inspired you to work for them?

I thought it might be a great chance to expand my world in Japan as a mum with no job and few connections. I love the idea of creating bonds between Japanese and non-Japanese families, and providing international families with opportunities to learn more about Japan.

What are the most interesting and attractive aspects of your work?

One of my projects was a hanami picnic in Shinjuku Gyoen. I created maps for the kids, who had to complete tasks before collecting their rewards. We had activities such as face painting and drawing workshops. The kids and their families had a wonderful time despite the crowds.As someone far away from her family, friends and habits, I feel like I am part of a group and I feel useful.

What programmes and activities does TGF offer?

From simple picnics with games and workshops for kids to film screenings, we have a broad range of activities. One recent popular event is hanging out at the horse racing stadium in Chofu. Kids can ride ponies and carriages, take part in a picnic and watch the races together in the VIP room.

What differences and similarities do you see between Japanese and non-Japanese families?

The main similarity is the struggle to find things to keep the kids occupied in this big city – something or somewhere both kids and parents can enjoy. The differences? The way [Japanese] families handle their kids. They never seem to lose their temper, and for that I admire them. Also, Japanese families give their kids more freedom [from a young age] than we would normally do in France. For instance, seeing little ones getting on the metro by themselves.

When did you first feel like a Tokyoite?

I might not fully be a Tokyoite yet, but I feel at ease here because I’m able to speak a bit [of Japanese], go around and feel a sense of accomplishment. Also, when we go back to France for a holiday, I miss the life in Tokyo, and say ‘when we go back home’ when I talk with my husband.

NHK World offers a wide range of multilingual news and other programmes. Do you have a favourite programme?

I find NHK World very interesting and helpful. I especially like ‘Journeys in Japan’ and ‘Tokyo Eye 2020’. Each programme is just 20 or 30 minutes long, so I can watch with my three-year-old daughter.

Finally, any survival tips for international families?

If you want to feel at ease and not far from home anymore, join us!

You’ll meet other families and, who knows, make new friends. It can be hard when you don’t speak much Japanese and Japanese people don’t speak much English.

But with kids? You don’t have much choice, so you’ll need to step out of your comfort zone. Kids are great for bonding with people you wouldn’t have talked to otherwise.

àSee www.theglobalfamilies.com

for more information about the Global Families

Visit nhk.jp/nhkworld to find out how you can get NHK WORLD

I, GLOBAL Get closer to the action Domo Four ways Grand Sumo Highlights helps to improve your sumo-watching experience

BOASTING A 1,500-YEAR history, sumo is engrained into Japan’s culture. Although its rules are simple, the many ritualistic aspects can make the world of sumo quite difficult to understand – but not if you tune in to Grand Sumo Highlights (GSH), one of NHK World’s most popular programmes. This highlight show is aired four times daily during tournaments, while the website offers you all the information you’ll need to enjoy every aspect of the sport. Here’s how GSH will get you ready for the dohyo.

1.

IT’S ALL IN ENGLISH

GSH is Japan’s only English-language sumo programme. The play-by-play commentators analyse what to look out for and how the wrestlers are doing in each bout. Hiro Morita, one of the programme’s experts, gave us a few advance pointers: ‘Keep an eye on every move a wrestler makes from the time he steps into the ring. The pre-bout rituals are as important as the bout itself – clapping hands to request the gods’ attention, showing their open palms to prove they are unarmed, throwing salt to purify the ring – the more you learn, the more enchanting it becomes.’

©NHK-TYO

NHK’s mascot introduces Tokyo to the world

2.

YOU GET THE FULL DEETS ON THE WRESTLERS

4.

YOU GET TO STUDY THE HISTORY AND ASK QUESTIONS

The rikishi, or wrestlers, are ranked in divisions. Learning more about each rikishi is one of the most popular ways to enjoy sumo.

On the GSH website, wrestlers in the top maku-uchi division are all introduced, while the top rikishi – those of yokozuna (grand champion) and ozeki rank – each have their own video biographies. You’ll soon find your favourite.

Hiro Morita

3.

YOU CAN LEARN THE TECHNIQUES

It’s exciting to see how powerful wrestlers – who weigh 160kg on average – clash in the sacred ring. There are 82 recognised ‘kimarite’, or match-winning techniques, and five non-techniques (ways to lose), all defined by the Japan Sumo Association. You can learn the most frequently used techniques by watching the video masterclasses on the site.

The Sumopedia section of the site offers short video guides to enrich your sumo experience. Learn about techniques, traditions and famous wrestlers of the past. Also, on the Q&A page, you can send your questions to announcer Morita, who’ll find the answer for you. Here’s an example: why do the wrestlers stamp their feet in the ring before a bout?

They’re trying to keep evil spirits from rising through the ground, of course!

WATCH ON DEMAND!

DOWNLOAD THE APP!

Watching every bout of a tournament can be tough even for the most rabid of sumo fans. Luckily, NHK World offers 25min highlight summaries from each day, both live and on demand.

You can watch Grand Sumo Highlights, and other NHK World TV programmes on this app. Download by scanning the QR code on the right.

TV 24/7 in your country, on your TV, computer or mobile device.

App Store®

Google Play™

PHOTO: JIN TAMAOKI/AFRO

ONE NIGHT IN TOKYO The best bars, waterfront spots and romantic restaurants, plus superb musical hideouts, seductive cats and other curious characters – it’s your ultimate guide to after-dark action in the capital

Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

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Eager to try the tipple on our cover? Then make your way down to Omori bar Tenderly, run by the masterful Yuko Miyazaki.

More than just a local sensation, her shrine to classic cocktails attracts patrons from all over Tokyo and beyond. Ă Omori-Kita Park Bldg 2F, 1-33-11 Omori-Kita, Ota (Omori Station). tinyurl.com/TOTtenderly.

5pm-1am (Fri until 2am, holidays until 12midnight), closed Sun.

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July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

ONE NIGHT IN TOKYO

One night of romance

ISHINOHANA Seasonal cocktails are the speciality at Ishinohana, Shibuya’s answer to the high-end cocktail joints of Ginza. At a basement location just a minute’s walk from Shibuya Station, owner Shinobu Ishigaki wields an array of fresh fruit and vegetables when creating his distinctive drinks. He also fancies himself as something of a boozy matchmaker: share your mood and watch as he conjures up a gorgeous creation to suit it. If you’d rather go by the book, there are entire menus devoted just to mojitos and martinis, plus a sizeable list of originals in constant flux. The quality is generally very high indeed, and the atmosphere considerably less intimidating than at Ginza’s bartending temples – you can even peek inside through the windows, which is rare at topclass Tokyo bars.

By Tamasaburau THERE ARE THOSE who say that bars are no place for a

date. These people are fools. True, you run the risk of the bartender eavesdropping your sweet nothings and your date being horrified as you outdrink them at a ratio of three to one, but conducting your courtship at the counter also means great views, killer cocktails and a place to drown your sorrows should it not work out. Here are the ten best booze-centred date spots in the city.

à B1F, 3-6-2 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 5485 8405. ishinohana.com.

6pm-2am, closed Sun & hols.

BAR TIARÉ

ANGELS’ SHARE

Named after the supposedly luck-bringing national flower of Tahiti, Tiaré is the domain of Yasuhiko Mizusawa, a former all-Japan bartending champion and a great proponent of making couples happy through the magic of cocktails. Known as the ‘Crown Prince of Fresh Fruit’, Mizusawa doesn’t just use tropical fruits in his drinks: he is fond of crafting little butterflies out of peel to decorate the glasses. A riot of colour, Tiaré is the perfect place for lovebirds who just want to focus on each other while sipping some of the prettiest drinks in town.

When newly distilled whisky is stored in casks and matured, a minuscule amount of it evaporates every year, This lost portion is said to have been drunk by angels, and is thus referred to as the ‘angels’ share’. In other words, the powers that be give their blessing to the distiller in exchange for a tiny portion of his or her product. With its name derived from such an obscure term, you might suspect that this specialist bar in chic Futako-Tamagawa is one of those places where connoisseurs go to have endless conversations about whisky and its many nuances, scaring any couples far

à Akasaka Hogetsudo Honten Bldg 5F, 4-2-2 Akasaka, Minato (Akasaka-Mitsuke Station). 03 3585 7300. facebook.com/bar.tiare.

5pm-1am, closed Sun & hols.

Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

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away before they even make it through the door. But you’d be wrong: Angels’ Share is actually rather apt for a date, mainly thanks to the supremely friendly fellow behind the counter. Kenji Imai is a whisky expert to the core, but he’ll never turn away first-timers or resort to half-hearted recommendations, as some less service-minded Tokyo barmen might. Imai’s passion runs deep, and his guidance is sure to lead both of you deep into the fascinating world of fine malts. à Meiyu Flats 3F, 3-12-13 Tamagawa, Setagaya (Futako-Tamagawa Station). 03 3709 6200. blog.livedoor.jp/bar_angels_share.

6pm-3am, closed Sun.

PHOTOS: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Ishinohana

ONE NIGHT IN TOKYO

MADURO A welcoming atmosphere, service that won’t let you down, rare whisky and brilliant cocktails, a cigar if the occasion calls for it, live jazz and a lavishly decorated interior – everything appears perfect for a date at Roppongi’s Maduro. Only thing is you’ll need to reach it first: after taking a winding approach through the lobby of the Grand Hyatt hotel and navigating a maze of hallways and elevators, you’ll need to cross through a mysterious passage that feels like walking on water before arriving at the bar’s heavy wooden doors, beyond which you’ll find a total of 108 seats reserved exclusively for sophisticated sippers.

Underneath the high ceiling lies several sofas, box seats separated from each other with glasslaced partitions, and even a few small private rooms – they let you pick and choose your spot depending on your, and your partner’s, mood.

Note that there’s a ¥2,000 cover charge every night after 8pm. à Grand Hyatt Tokyo 4F, Roppongi Hills, 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 4333 8783. tokyo.grand.hyatt.com/en/hotel/ dining/Maduro.html. 7pm-1am (Fri, Sat until 2am).

BAR NOIR A veteran barman with stints at luxury hotels such as the Westin Tokyo and the Ritz-Carlton under his belt, Takeshi Saito exudes an aura of quiet confidence – this is a man who has seen the world, served it a stiff drink and listened to its stories. Saito’s Ebisu haunt follows his lead – the decor is smart, but the atmosphere is very welcoming. The conventional thing would of course be to just sit at the counter and watch the proprietor craft whichever cocktails he deems appropriate for the two of you, but we’d recommend heading to one of the table seats facing the windows. Looking down from the fifth floor, you’ll be able to do some serious people-watching with your companion before or after dinner in one of the city’s most stylish neighbourhoods. à Ice Cube 5F, 3-1-25 Ebisu-Minami, Shibuya (Ebisu Station).

03 5725 9888. noir-tokyo.com. 7pm-4am (Sun until 12midnight), closed hols.

LE MARQUIS The journey to the Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo’s classy bar is a significant part of its charm.

Get yourself to Edogawabashi Station then, rather than hailing a cab, walk along the Kanda River with your date until you reach the hotel’s Kabukimon gate. Enter and admire the gorgeous Japanese garden you’ll find yourself in. Once you start feeling thirsty, cross the Benkei bridge and pick out a table at the luxurious Le Marquis. The four seats at the Italian marble-covered counter are appealing, but sinking yourself into one of the sofas probably makes for a more intimate atmosphere. If you can keep your eyes off each other, remember to spare a few glimpses for the gorgeous furniture, manufactured by fabled American company Baker, the roots of which go back to 1890. The Chinzanso’s rooms are decorated with the same chairs, tables and other furnishings, so you get to enjoy the atmosphere of one of Tokyo’s priciest hotels for the cost of your drinks alone. Speaking of drinks, highlights include near-perfect martinis and the Youkihi cocktail, a Le Marquis original named after 8th-century imperial consort Yang Guifei, one of the legendary ‘four beauties’ of ancient China. à Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo 2F, 2-10-8 Sekiguchi, Bunkyo (Edogawabashi Station). 03 3943 1111. hotel-chinzanso-tokyo.jp/ restaurant/marquis. Daily 6pm-12midnight.

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July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

The brand-lined streets of Aoyama feel like they’re a long way from the wild and windswept moors of Scotland, but it’s here you’ll find a plush and discreet haven stocked to bursting with a bold range of Scotch. Pass the church on the ground floor of the elegant Santa Chiara complex and climb the stairs to find the door to Whisky Library, where the bookcases are filled not with dusty old tomes but with a stunning collection of more than 1,200 different bottles. Aiming to help newbies learn more about the overwhelming variety of fine malts, this bar has none of that ‘connoisseurs only’ attitude sometimes evident at other Tokyo whisky bars, and provides a simple menu of standard options to get your sipping started. The 82 seats include sofas, stools and seating in private rooms, encouraging you to admire your drink from a variety of angles and in different lighting conditions – you’ll feel like you can discover something new even if you order the same tipple twice. à Minami-Aoyama Santa Chiara Church 2F, 5-5-24 Minami-Aoyama, Minato (Omotesando Station). 03 6434 1163. tokyo-whisky-library.com. Mon-Sat 6pm-3am (last orders 2am), Sun 5pm-12midnight (11pm).

MOTIF Finding your way up to this hotel bar right by Tokyo Station can be tricky, but nailing it on the first try is also a sure way to impress your companion. Skip the main entrance to the office-filled, 31-storey Pacific Century Place building on Sotobori-dori and instead make way for the right-hand side of the structure, where you’ll see a sign for the Four Seasons Hotel. Enter through the sliding doors, go all the way to the end of the corridor, take the dedicated elevator to the seventh floor and head around the back to encounter a bar so blissful that you’ll hardly believe it sits inside a faceless glass-and-steel tower. Facing the train tracks and platforms of Tokyo Station, the huge windows offer excellent views.

Grab a seat at one of the tables next to them, pick off the seasonal cocktail menu and plan your next journey together while gazing out over the Shinkansen trains arriving and departing beneath you.

SEE MORE TIMEOUT.COM/ TOKYO

à Four Seasons Tokyo 7F, Pacific Century Place, 1-11-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda (Tokyo Station). 03 5222 5810. fourseasons.com/tokyo/dining/restaurants/motif_restaurant_and_bar. 10am-12midnight (Thu, Fri until 1am).

Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

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WHISKY LIBRARY, MOTIF, MANDARIN BAR, KURANDO: KISA TOYOSHIMA. SKY LOUNGE AURORA: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

WHISKY LIBRARY

ONE NIGHT IN TOKYO

A MADAME’S AFTER-DARK GUIDE TO SHIBUYA

MANDARIN BAR Nihonbashi, the heart of old Edo, now has its share of highrises, but none of these towers stand out quite like the one housing the Mandarin Oriental hotel. Directly accessible from Mitsukoshimae subway station and perched on the 37th floor, the hotel’s signature bar affords impressive views of the surrounding business district. But it’s not all about those Blade Runner-esque vistas. The Mandarin Bar is famed for its interior: local design hotshot Ryu Kosaka was asked to create ‘something sexy, but like nothing you’ve seen before’. His spacious layout incorporating a Zen pool and an array of designer furnishings succeeds on both counts. The central counter is dazzling, while the sofas by the windows offer the ultimate date experience. If it’s a special day for the two of you, consider sharing a luxurious night of dinner and champagne at the table enveloped by flowing water. As for the drinks, consider opting for some Mancino Sakura & Sumire vermouth – a Mandarin Bar original – as an alternative to cocktails. à Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo 37F, 2-1-1 Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo (Mitsukoshimae Station). 03 3270 8188. mandarinoriental.com/tokyo/fine-dining/mandarin-bar. Daily 11.30am-2am.

SKY LOUNGE AURORA Picking the Keio Plaza’s Sky Lounge as one of Tokyo’s top date bars might seem like a cliché, but we maintain that this expansive spot, reopened in December 2016 after a complete overhaul, is a reborn classic. The spectacular views of Shinjuku’s business district remain unchanged, but the chic, black-toned interior is all new. Also spruced up is the laidback counter-only bar in business since 1971 on the north side of the space. Its windows look out over all of Tokyo’s greatest hits: the metropolitan government building in the west, the Skytree, Tokyo Tower and central Shinjuku to the east, and Nishi-Shinjuku’s futuristic towers to the north. Go early to watch the sun set across from the metro government’s Kenzo Tange-designed headquarters while you two sip on cocktails in the light-filled space. But the Sky Lounge’s highlights reach beyond the setting: mixing drinks here is Kazuya Watanabe, the first bartender to receive the Japanese government’s medal of honour with a yellow ribbon, awarded to ‘contemporary master craftsmen’. Top value is provided by the ¥7,000 Cocktail Dinner, which can be ordered from 5pm to 10pm and includes three drinks from a selection of more than 100, to go with your three-course meal. à Keio Plaza Hotel 45F, 2-2-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Tochomae Station). 03 3344 0111. www.keioplaza.com/restaurants/skylounge/ index.html. Daily 5pm-11.30pm.

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Kurando, the proprietress at Shibuya ‘snack’ bar Utsubo Kazura, is an eager traveller. Originally from Saitama just north of Tokyo, she spent years running pop-up boozers at art fairs in the countryside before setting up her own joint in the capital in 2016. Although she spends most of her nights at the bar, Kurando occasionally wanders into competing establishments on her nocturnal journeys…

‘Before opening my own place for the night, I usually start out with a proper meal at Otechikiya (Towa Aoyama Bldg B02, 2-8-4 Shibuya, Shibuya, 03 3400 7071, 5pm-11pm, closed Sun & hols, 2nd Mon of the month), an eatery right by my bar. They specialise in local cuisine from Kagoshima prefecture down in Kyushu – think plenty of heirloom chicken and shochu – and I love the laidback country accents of the employees. Another unmissable earlyevening spot is Fujiya Honten (B1F, 2-3 Sakuragaokacho, Shibuya, tinyurl.com/ TOTfujiya, Mon-Fri 5pm-9.30pm, Sat 5pm-8.30pm, closed Sun & hols, 4th Sat of the month). This iconic, 130-year-old basement bar is as retro as it gets, and I love the old-school appetisers that go so well with Hoppy, a beer substitute that makes the basis for a crisp, refreshing DIY cocktail. Later at night, I join the poor souls who’ve missed their last train home at the Aoyama branch of Chinese Cafe Eight (5-51-8 Jingumae, Shibuya, 8aoyama. com, 24 hours daily), which serves cheap Peking duck, is casual and always open.

That does it for me on most nights, but, if I’m feeling really energetic, I head to Sakuragaoka’s friendly Cataratas (Dolce Shibuya B2F, 16-14 Sakuragaokacho, Shibuya, 03 3461 6615, from 6pm, closed Sun) for one last sip. They’ve got a great import beer selection.’

July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

ONE NIGHT IN TOKYO

One night of fine food

CHINA BLUE If you’re seeking a lavish beginning to your evening then China Blue on the 28th floor of the Conrad Tokyo hotel won’t disappoint. Chef Albert Tse made his fame in Hong Kong and Singapore before moving to Japan and commandeering the Conrad’s cloud-bothering restaurant in 2005.

Despite the name, the food at China Blue is actually a happy fusion inspired by Tse’s Asian travels.

Each dish is impeccably presented and arrives begging to be Instagrammed before being dug into. If you can tear your eyes away from your plate, the stunning views over the harbour, including the twinkling Rainbow and Tokyo Gate bridges in the distance, are worth capturing.

The ‘Couples Course’ is actually seven – a tasting menu which features chef Tse’s signature dish, barbecue spare ribs with sweet and sour sauce, as its centrepiece. This isn’t your average finger food, as the sticky ribs are adorned with fresh strawberries, wasabi leaves and myoga (Japanese ginger). Artfully presented, it could be mistaken for your dessert.

The culinary delights that’ll make your Tokyo date unforgettable, in the form of four stellar restaurants.

By Sarah Crago

CHINA BLUE, FISH BANK TOKYO, FRATELLI PARADISO: KISA TOYOSHIMA. ECHIKATSU: MANABU MOROOKA

à Conrad Tokyo 28F, 1-9-1 Higashi-Shinbashi, Minato (Shinbashi, Shiodome stations). 03 6388 8745. conradtokyo.co.jp/restaurants/chinablue. Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-9pm.

Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

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ONE NIGHT IN TOKYO

ECHIKATSU Echikatsu may be just a short walk from Yushima Station, but it belongs in a different era entirely. Established in 1871 and now run by the sixth generation of the same family, the tradition and authenticity of this Japanese restaurant have been perfectly preserved. Although rebuilt and restored several times over the years, its ryokanesque building remains a symbol of Japanese beauty and simplicity.

Walking the stone pathway through an impeccable Japanese garden to the main entrance, you already know you’re in for a special evening. Made up of individual tatami-mat rooms that cater to anywhere from two to 80 diners, the restaurant’s structure means you’ll always feel like you have the place to yourself. Every room looks out onto the beautiful gardens – when booking, ask for a view of the pond and its colourful carp swimming around peacefully. The tranquillity of the setting will have you in disbelief of the fact you’re still right in the middle of bustling Tokyo.

Sukiyaki is Echikatsu’s main culinary attraction, and supposedly tastes just like it did when the restaurant was first founded. Supermodel-thin slices of A5-grade Matsusaka wagyu are cooked in a shallow iron pot at your table, along with tofu, leek, mushrooms and harusame (glass noodles). The broth used is known as warishita – its exact recipe is a closely guarded family secret, but the main ingredients are soy sauce, sake, kombu seaweed, mirin and water. Before eating, dip the beef in a lightly beaten raw egg to really bring out the flavour. à 2-31-23 Yushima, Bunkyo (Yushima Station). 03 3811 5293. tinyurl.com/TOTechikatsu. 5pm-9.30pm, closed Sun & hols, Saturdays in August.

FISH BANK TOKYO Fish Bank wastes no time in taking your breath away. The restaurant’s dedicated lift in the Shiodome City Center building rises to the 41st floor so quickly you fear emerging with the bends, and the interior continues on a mission to make you hyperventilate. The floor to ceiling windows present all of Tokyo to you in miniature while the high ceilings, elaborate crystal chandeliers and a glass-fronted wine room housing over 1,000 bottles are almost as impressive. If your dining partner isn’t visibly impressed, you should check them for a pulse.

You aren’t the only one to make that lift journey – the flapping fresh contents of the impressive seafood platter are ferried up daily from Tsukiji Market below.

FBT’s speciality is the sea urchin chawanmushi (Japanese egg custard), a silky, rich delicacy served in a spiky urchin shell. There are plenty of fresh oysters to further get you in the mood – consider pairing these unevenly sized beauties with a glass of crisp champagne.

The menu accommodates both à la carte and three prix fixe options – five, six or seven courses – which take the pressure off choosing, allowing you to sit back, enjoy the sequence of dishes and take in the spectacular vistas.

A little tip when booking is to ask for one of the windowside tables with the best views of Tokyo Tower, although this iconic feature of the capital’s skyline is at least partially visible from all vantage points inside the main dining room. à Shiodome City Center 41F, 1-5-2 Higashi-Shinbashi, Minato (Shinbashi, Shiodome stations). 03 3569 7171. fish-bank-tokyo. jp. Daily 11.30am-3pm (last orders 1.30pm), 5.30pm-11.30pm (9.30pm).

FRATELLI PARADISO A new challenger for the title of Tokyo’s most romantic restaurant is Fratelli Paradiso, hailing from Sydney. Its ‘all day’ approach to eating – not as common as you’d think in the capital – means you can stop by for a glass of natural wine and a delicious plate of food at the bar any time of the day or make a lunch or dinner reservation to really make the most of it.

Located in the Omotesando Hills complex, it’s the perfect end to a day of shopping or the start of a night out in busy Shibuya or fancy Aoyama. The vibe is contemporary Italian bistro – swanky but not wanky. You’ll notice the marble bar, inviting tan leather banquettes and the menu chalked up casually on the dining room wall.

All of the bread and pasta are made fresh on-site, a signature being the scampi spaghetti, which sees a whole scampi served in its shell alongside a simple, fresh tomato pasta. Whatever your choice, a meal at Fratelli Paradiso is not complete without their signature tiramisu. It’s got the perfect balance of creamy versus light and airy, with just the right amounts of coffee and booze.

The only problem is you could destroy the evening’s romantic atmosphere by steadfastly refusing to let your partner have even the smallest taste. à Omotesando Hills 3F, 4-12-10 Jingumae, Shibuya (Omotesando, Meiji-Jingumae stations). fratelliparadiso.im-transit.co.jp.

Mon-Sat 11am-11pm, Sun & hols 11am-10.30pm.

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July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

ONE NIGHT IN TOKYO

One night of casual drinking Where to go when just you’re just looking to down a few cold ones in good company – these are four of our favourite watering holes in the Shibuya-Ebisu-Meguro area.

By Yukako Izumi

MIKKELLER TOKYO You can’t keep Mikkel Borg Bjergsø and his signature ‘gypsy brewery’ down. The Danish beer rogue was forced to close his short-lived Tomigaya bar in winter 2016, but he’s now back on the scene. After a few months of pop-ups and other foamy events, a new permanent location finally saw the light of day in April 2017. Mikkeller Tokyo the sequel is set in a corner building in Shibuya’s love hotel-infested Hyakkendana. Offering a smallish but comfy stage for sipping both Bjergsø’s own artisanal brews and guest beers from Japan and beyond – there are 20 taps in total – it’s a wonderful addition to an offbeat neighbourhood where sex shops co-exist with stylish restaurants and even a Shinto shrine. Partially opening up onto the street, the ground floor is where to enjoy a drink on your feet and always gets crowded once the sun goes down, while tables are found in the quiet space upstairs. Bringing a touch of Scandinavian flair to Shibuya, Mikkeller is the kind of place we’d like to stop by every night.

ANOTHER 8 The sister shop of Kyoto-based craft beer and sake bar Before 9, Another 8 landed in the capital this April, opening in posh Meguro in a space that used to be a garage. A place for laidback drinking, it’s got tables and benches both inside and out front, in addition to a stand bar that tends to get very crowded on weekends. Although beer is the speciality at Another 8 – the place is equipped with eight taps – there is also a small but very nice selection of sake. The bar snacks are pretty good too – we’re big fans of the marinated octopus and celery, while those looking for something more substantial will want to try the shirasu (whitebait) and daikon omelette. à Yokogawa Bldg 1F, 1-2-18 Shimomeguro, Meguro (Meguro Station).

03 6417 9158. sakahachi.jp. 5pm-1am, closed Tue. Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

ØL TOKYO When the sun begins to set over Oku-Shibuya (‘inner Shibuya’), the trendy back streets of Tokyo’s buzziest neighbourhood, you might spot more than a few suitwearing characters making their way towards this shrine to Norwegian craft beer.

The best bar in the area for a post-work pint, Øl Tokyo is the local outpost of Oslo Brewing and exudes Scandinavian style: the furniture and part of the décor was flown in straight from Norway. The 20 taps serve a range of Nordic brews plus a rotating selection of guest beers. Food trucks occasionally park in front of the bar to compensate for its very sparse food menu, although we love the house-made waffles, filled with goat’s cheese – when in Norway and all... à 37-10 Udagawacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 5738 7186. oltokyo.jp. 12noon-12midnight (Fri, Sat until 2am).

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ANOTHER 8, CATS, HARUMI TSUNODA: KISA TOYOSHIMA. MIKKELLER, ØL TOKYO, GEM BY MOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

à 2-19-11 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). mikkeller.jp. Mon-Thu 3pm-12.30am, Fri 3pm-1.30am, Sat 12noon-1.30am, Sun & hols 12noon-12.30am.

ONE NIGHT IN TOKYO

A TASTY NIGHT IN KINSHICHO

GEM BY MOTO A drinks menu is provided at Ebisu’s Gem by Moto, but locals know you’re best to ignore it. Instead ask manager Marie Chiba or her staff to pick out the perfect drink to match your mood. This counter-only hideout is the repository of some serious sake expertise, so you’re in safe hands. The food is good too, particularly the ham cutlets with blue cheese and cherry tomatoes with mozzarella, which will keep tempting you back for one last round. Gem lives up to its name, especially in Ebisu – a neighbourhood that suffered from a serious lack of proper sake bars before Chiba and her team rolled into town in July 2015. In fact, it’s become so popular that reservations are recommended at all times. à 1-30-9 Ebisu, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 03 6455 6998. fsknet.co.jp/impression/moto_ebisu.php. Tue-Fri 5pm-12midnight, Sat, Sun & hols 1pm-9pm, closed Mon.

Harumi Tsunoda is one busy woman: a real estate agent by day, she spends her spare evenings painting and designing. She also organises the annual Sumida River Mono Koto Ichi, eastern Tokyo’s biggest handicrafts event. Born and raised in Kinshicho, she’s the ideal person to ask for nighttime recommendations in this once rough but now endlessly intriguing neighbourhood.

One night with Tokyo’s sexiest cats

‘Before the station area was redeveloped, Kinshicho used to be a little scary even for locals, but that aura’s all gone these days. The northern side is especially well worth exploring, as plenty of stylish restaurants have opened there in recent years. But to experience the essence of the area, you need to start at an izakaya.

My go-to spot is Sugoroku (4-9-1 Midori, Sumida, su569.com, 5pm-11pm, closed Wed), a down-toearth joint with delicious food. It’s run by the head of the local supporters’ association for sumo grand champion Hakuho, so you’ll find signed photos of the wrestler all over the walls. If you prefer sake to beer and shochu, opt for Jozoka Oryzae (4-12-3 Kinshi, Sumida, facebook.com/jzk.oryzae, 5pm-12midnight, Sun 2pm-11pm, closed Mon), famed for its brews and funky fermented food. To keep you on your feet after all that drinking, try one of the offbeat ramen shops in the area: Mengyo (2-8-8 Kotobashi, Sumida, 03 6659 9619, 11am-9pm, closed Mon) both draw their broth from and top their bowls with madai (red sea bream), while Saichi (4-6-9 Kinshi, Sumida, 03 3622 0141, Mon-Thu 11.30am-11.30pm, Fri, Sat 11.30am-12midnight, Sun & hols 11.30am-10pm) use oysters for the same purpose. Alternatively, you could go for curry – Kinshicho has some of the best in town – at south Indian eatery Venu’s (2-6-11 Kinshi, Sumida, 03 6284 1711, 5pm-10pm) or Bangladeshi import Asia Curry House (3-9-24 Kotobashi, Sumida, 03 3634 4522, 7.30pm-4am). Lighter fare is offered by Malo Galette & Quiche (4-8-5 Kamezawa, Sumida, 03 6906 9844, 5pm-10pm, closed Tue), which is my favourite restaurant right now. Their galettes go so well with French cider or a glass of buckwheat beer.’

Meet a pair of nocturnal celebrities that could only exist in this city

Ebisu bar Tokyo Robin counts plenty of attractive ladies and gentlemen among its clientele, but even the most stunning patrons here are overshadowed by the one-year-old Robin, dubbed the sexiest cat in Tokyo. Always eager to strike a pose for the camera, this fetching feline is the owner of an enchanting aura that betrays her tender age. Stroke her shiny fur for too long and she’ll start hissing threateningly – this is a beauty not easily tamed. à Ebisu Bldg 2F, 4-10-8 Ebisu, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 03 6447 7333. 12noon-12midnight, closed Mon.

If you prefer a less troublesome but equally handsome date, head for Shinjuku’s retro Cafe Arles. Working the floor here is the five-year-old Jirocho, whose well-manicured whiskers and funky bangs lend him a manly, model-like appearance. Also the owner of a loving, caring personality, this is a kitty who’ll put the neighbourhood’s host club playboys to shame. à 5-10-8 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (ShinjukuSanchome Station). 03 3356 0003.

11.30am-10pm, closed Sun.

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July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

ONE NIGHT IN TOKYO

One night by the water

By Mari Hiratsuka IN PART THANKS to all the Olympics-related construction

happening out by the bay, Tokyo’s waterfront areas are undergoing a quiet revival, with new restaurants, cafés, hip hotels and other exciting hangouts popping up here and there along the capital’s rivers and canals. Led by the inclusive Mizbering project, which aims to make the most of recently relaxed regulations and a growing interest in reviving our dear city’s reputation as an aquatic metropolis, this welcome trend has also resulted in the emergence of several exciting after-dark destinations.

Read on for our picks of the most romantic waterfront hideouts in Tokyo right now.

LUNATIQUE TOKIOPLAGE If you are after some old-school charm in Futako-Tamagawa, dodge the new and imposing Rise shopping complex and instead head east to find this lone four-storey house hidden out by the Tama River. It houses a great French restaurant and the top two floors have terrace seating with great views of the gently flowing river and the trains zipping by along the Denentoshi line. Order the steak fillet with foie gras (¥1,389), pick out a bottle of wine (from ¥2,300) and take in the cool evening breeze. Just don’t be surprised by the minimalist service: food tickets are bought at the ground-floor kitchen, and the staff will call you over a speaker when your dishes are ready for pick-up. The out-of-the-way, out of this world, location means it’s worth the effort of fetching your own food. à1-1-4 Tamagawa, Setagaya (Futako-Tamagawa Station). 03 3708 1118. tinyurl.com/TOTlunatique.

Mon-Sat 11am-11pm (last orders 10pm), Sun & hols 11am-10pm (9pm).

Grab a seat by the huge windows at this hip café perched partially above the Sumida River for spectacular views over lit-up Azumabashi, the Skytree and the golden, uh, turd on the roof of the Asahi Building. If you’re really lucky, you might be able to snag one of the tables on the small terrace and feel like you have the city all to yourself. Meursault’s 20-strong cake selection and eclectic drink menu are almost as dizzying as the views. Hot tip: this is probably one of the best places in the area for catching the annual Sumida River Fireworks, set for July 29 this year, but you’ll need to move really quickly to secure a spot – bookings are taken from July 3. à 2-1-5 Kaminarimon, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 3843 8008. cafe-meursault.com.

Mon-Fri 11am-11pm (last food orders 9pm, drink 10.30pm), Sat, Sun & hols 11am-10pm (9pm/9.30pm).

Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

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LUNATIQUE, CAFE MEURSAULT: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. KOMEI MOTOJI: KISA TOYOSHIMA

CAFE MEURSAULT

ONE NIGHT IN TOKYO

A CHIC NIGHT IN GINZA

NIHONBASHI ICHINO ICHINO ICHI Nihonbashi, the bridge that gave an entire central Tokyo district its name, is steeped in history as it was once the starting point for the five main routes that connected Edo with the provinces. Today the best place to admire the lit-up structure and the canal running underneath it is from the terrace seats at this classy Japanese restaurant and bar, named after its address and extremely popular among local businesspeople who stop by for a tipple after work. For a quieter experience, grab one of the stools by the counter and dig into the Madai no donabemeshi, a rice dish with red sea bream cooked in a clay pot – the perfect companion to a couple of sake shots. Get there early for the happy hour (3-7pm), when draft beer, nihonshu and cocktails can be had for just ¥300 a pop. à 1-1-1 Nihonbashi, Chuo (Nihonbashi Station). 03 3516 3111. nihonbashi111.jp. Mon-Fri 11am-2pm, 4pm-11.30pm (last orders for food 10pm, drinks 11pm), Sat, Sun & hols 11am-10.30pm (9pm/10pm).

PRIVADO Press the intercom at the front entrance of one of the newer buildings overlooking the Sumida River in Kuramae and you’ll gain entrance to an elevator that’ll take you up to Privado, an appropriately ‘private’ bar that is, in our book, one of the most impressive date spots in all of eastern Tokyo. In addition to a top-drawer margarita, you’ll find a plentiful selection of vintage whisky and cigars. Book in advance for access to one of the few terrace tables, which provide attractive vistas out towards the Skytree. For a change of pace, check out ‘ping-pong bar’ Ribayon on the fourth floor of the same structure, or head down to the eclectic Cielo y Rio restaurant and café that occupies floors one and three. à Mirror 7F, 2-15-5 Kuramae, Taito (Kuramae Station). 03 5820 7310. privado.jp. 7pm-1am, closed Mon, 2nd & 4th Sun of the month.

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Komei Motoji is the president of Ginza Motoji, a kimono purveyor that operates three shops in Ginza. He has lived and breathed Tokyo’s glitziest neighbourhood since 1979, never taking a day off, but making up for it by enjoying Ginza’s nightlife to the fullest. These are his top after-dark picks in the area.

‘I love my job, and work 365 days a year. But sometimes you need a break, and that’s when I head to Tateru Yoshino Ginza (Pias Ginza 12F, 4-8-10 Ginza, Chuo, tateruyoshino.com/ginza, 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-9pm), a French restaurant not far from our main shop. Chef Yoshino worked under Joël Robuchon in Paris and creates amazing dishes, but the location is unbeatable too – on the 12th floor of the Pias Ginza building, with views over the entire neighbourhood.

Make sure not to fill up completely, as we’re heading to a yakitori joint next.

Cheap, tasty and cheerful, Take-chan (4-8-13 Ginza, Chuo, 03 3561 6889, 5pm-8.45pm, closed Sun & hols) has been a local favourite for over half a century.

I’m usually content with just having a few drinks over dinner, but on nights when I feel really thirsty, I head for Bar S (Ginza Shiseido Bldg 11F, 8-8-3 Ginza, Chuo, tinyurl.com/TOTbars, 5.30pm-11.30pm, closed Sat, Sun & hols). This fancy cocktail spot opened in 2015 inside the Shiseido Building and is a great pick for closing out the night. Another nice option is Bulgari Il Bar (Bulgari Ginza Tower 10F, 2-7-12 Ginza, Chuo, bulgarihotels.com/en_US/ tokyo-osaka-restaurants/tokyo/il-bar, Mon-Sat 11.30am-11.30pm, Sun & hols 11.30am-6pm) on the tenth floor of the Italian luxury brand’s flagship store – the biggest Bulgari store in the world.’

July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

ONE NIGHT IN TOKYO

One night of music While their personalities and atmospheres differ, these five Tokyo music bars are all guaranteed to give you a night to remember.

By Kunihiro Miki

GRANDFATHER’S Established 40 years ago, Grandfather’s is the current daddy of the city’s vintage music bar scene. The snug venue pioneered a playlist style that was uncommon at the time, blending together rock LPs one song at a time. Today, the tunes are a selection of popular music (mainly AOR, funk and soul) from the ’70s, when vinyl records were mainstream. After all these years, the interior is unchanged but well maintained, adding an extra level of charm to the music. à Flat Bldg B1F, 1-24-7 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3407 9505. grandfather.jp/shibuya.

Daily 5pm-3am.

INTRO

KOARA

The jazz-focused Intro is narrow and cramped, even by Tokyo standards where almost every bar is ‘intimate’, but the warm welcome compensates for the lack of elbow room. There is live music three to four nights a week, but it’s more of a casual ‘drop in and play’ affair than a polished gig experience. This adds to the charm though and anyone from students to moonlighting stars can be found jamming away on any given night.

One of Shibuya’s many ‘box clubs’, this DJ bar in the back streets of the Jinnan district is known for hosting the occasional secret set from big-name spinners. No matter who is playing the small dance floor, 20 is a crowd here, meaning more enthusiastic foot tapping and less aggressive booty-shaking. The capital’s audiophiles praise Koara’s sound system as one of the finest in town – hear it for yourself on the weekend, when up-andcoming local spinners usually take charge of proceedings. Entrance fees are rare and drinks are very reasonably priced. à B1F, 1-13-15 Jinnan, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 6423 0644. koara-tokyo.com. Mon-Thu 9pm-5am, Fri, Sat 9pm-6am, closed Sun.

MUSIC BAR BERKANA

TENGU SHOKUDO

Think ’Tokyo music bar’ and you’ll probably imagine something like Berkana: a moody, classy corner of the otherwise sterile Yebisu Garden Place. Its large windows look out over the JR train tracks, while the drink menu lists a rotating selection of Japanese craft beer, more than 200 kinds of whisky, almost as many types of gin and cocktails crafted by the resident mixologist. They play jazz and domestic indie pop most nights, but Saturdays see a guest DJ step into the booth and take control of the perfectly configured sound system – the crystal clear Tannoy speakers and powerful McIntosh amp will make you feel like you are hearing even old classics for the first time.

Fancy a walk on music’s wild side?

Then make for this Sangenjaya bar. Its set-up is supremely simple – a DJ booth in the back and a small dance floor – but the tunes on offer are always wonderfully eclectic. You might hear spacedout disco and house one night, ‘rare groove’ (obscure soul, jazz or funk) the next. Partly thanks to its lack of space, Tengu Shokudo is also the kind of place where you’re expected to make friends with the regulars – something that shouldn’t be very hard after a few drinks, and perhaps a plate of the owner’s homemade gyoza or curry.

à Yebisu Garden Place Brick End, 1-13-4 Mita, Meguro (Ebisu Station). 03 6277 3786. classic-inc. jp/berkana. Daily 5pm-2am.

Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

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à KT Sangenjaya 3F, 5-15-11 Taishido, Setagaya (Sangenjaya Station). tengushokudo.com. Daily 10pm-5am.

GRANDFATHER'S: MANABU MOROOKA. INTRO: KISA TOYOSHIMA. MUSIC BAR BERKANA: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

à 2-14-8 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku (Takadanobaba Station). 03 3200 4396. jazzspot.intro.co.jp. Hours vary by night.

ONE NIGHT IN TOKYO

A chef’s tour of Shinjuku

HOTEL INTERIOR: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Thomas Angerer is executive chef at the Park Hyatt and oversees the hotel’s eight awardwinning restaurants including the iconic New York Grill. He has lived and worked in Shinjuku for four years – who better then to guide us through the area’s best late-night bars and restaurants?

‘For my perfect night, I’d start in the hotel – watching the sunset while having some cocktails at the New York Bar (Park Hyatt Tokyo 52F, 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku, tinyurl.com/TOTnybar, Sun-Wed 5pm-12midnight, Thu-Sat 5pm-1am). Up here on the 52nd floor it’s amazing seeing the city change into “night mode”. The sun goes down, the lights go on and it looks like a computer game. And I can’t wait to go and play.

So I’d venture south into Nishihara, which is full of tiny neighbourhood restaurants and bars. You’re not going to find many tourists here, but people are friendly. My favourite yakitori restaurant, Fuku (3-23-4 Nishihara, Shibuya, 03 3485 3234, 5.30pm-11.30pm, closed Wed), is here. It’s very small – 25 people and the place is full. I take guest chefs here when they come and they always love it, it’s simple but the quality is outstanding.

Everything on a stick is incredible, but be sure to try the chicken neck with leeks on top and, if you’re feeling adventurous, chicken tail. Finish off with green peppers stuffed with cheese and wrapped in bacon. It’s insane. Everything is better wrapped in bacon!

So some sake, some skewers and we are off to Bar Nakagawa (3-25-5 Nishihara, Shibuya, tinyurl.com/TOTnakagawa, 7pm-4am). The owner does an amazing Moscow mule – he infuses the vodka with ginger for two weeks and it really kicks. He hand-shapes the ice and

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only plays classical music. This is what Tokyo is all about – finding these small little places where the owners go the extra mile.

It’s probably approaching midnight by now, so let’s head to Golden Gai (1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku, tinyurl.com/TOTgoldengai) and its bars. On the way we can make a pitstop at Yoyogi Village (1-28-9 Yoyogi, Shibuya, tinyurl.com/TOTyoyovillage), which is built from shipping containers. In summer they put down some sand and create their own beach next to some beautiful palm trees. Grab a bucket of beers and sit in a deck chair or go to the music bar which has thousands of vinyl records lining the walls.

Once we get to Golden Gai I like to play “Bar Roulette”. One person picks a street, another picks a number and another left or right.

Then you go to, say, the third bar on the left of the second street. You walk in and see what happens. It never fails. One bar will be playing punk, one jazz, one is decorated with dolls’ heads and only spins obscure ’80s J-pop...

You’re always going to find a place that’s fun.

Hang there for a few hours and then grab some ramen before you head home as the sun rises.

There are some great places in Golden Gai: I like Nagi (2F, 1-1-10 Kabukicho, Shinjuku, tinyurl.com/TOTnagi, 24 hours daily). Order the tonkotsu – the pork broth will power you up for the walk home as the sun rises between the skyscrapers.’

July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Promotional feature

Yoshiyuki Satoh Pilot Age: 41

LOCAL INSIGHT

Yoshiyuki Satoh, an ex-helicopter pilot for Japan’s Maritime Self-Defense Force (JMSDF), tells us how a watch can be the difference between life and death in extreme situations. When up in the sky, he relied on the G-Shock’s accuracy, durability and smart features to ensure that every mission was a successful one.

How can a watch make a difference on missions?

It makes a difference in many ways. For instance, punctuality was key in the JMSDF. When on missions such as searching for submarines, after taking off from a destroyer, the very first thing we did was communicate with the crews of all helicopters in our team, calibrating our watches and setting them to the exact same time. Especially co-pilots had to be aware of the time, reporting back to base on everything from flight time to how long we have left before we run out of fuel.

On particularly sensitive missions, everything – even landing on a ship in the middle of the sea – needed to be done in darkness. In those cases, having the correct time was absolutely essential. I also used to check the fluorescent dial on my watch to keep my eyes adjusted to the conditions. You could say time was the common language of the team on missions.

So pilots always need to be aware of the time?

Right, co-pilots play a particularly

important role in monitoring the time and keeping both the pilot and the base informed. They have to jot down every detail of the mission while flying, so during my co-pilot years, I would wear a watch on my right wrist in order to write while always keeping an eye on the time. JMSDF soldiers are ordered to use analogue watches, as digital ones can be confusing at times. And on missions that cover multiple time zones, we always referred to GMT (Greenwich Mean Time), so having a watch that could display both that and the local time was very helpful.

Sounds like the G-Shock is the perfect watch for a pilot, then?

It is. During my time in the JMSDF, I used a G-Shock, as did most of my colleagues. Actually, I recently talked to my former co-workers who are still in the force and they told me how reliable the watch is. I completely agree with them. In my last five years before resigning, I was part of a rescue crew. The JMSDF rescue team is the asset of last resort – they’d only call on us after contacting ambulance

services and prefectural rescue units – so the situations we ended up in were always extremely serious and challenging. In such environments, we relied on the G-Shock. Having evolved even further, this latest Gravitymaster truly is every pilot’s dream watch.

Now that you’re working on the ground, is time still a big factor in your life?

I think so, yes, especially as I’m still involved with helping people. After leaving the JMSDF, I co-founded a company to realise my dream of being an

entrepreneur. But after the 2011 earthquake and tsunami, I used my connections in theJMSDF and the business world to support victims in the disaster areas. My business partner then told me that I looked so motivated and engaged when making full use of my ability to help others. That comment eventually inspired me to start what I’m doing now: working at a company based in Tokushima prefecture that delivers daily essentials to elderly people living alone in isolated parts of the country.

VIRTUALLY INVINCIBLE Always fancied yourself as a bit of a Top Gun? The new G-SHOCK, which combines Japanese craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology, is designed for pilots, but this tough timepiece has features that will still thrill down on Earth.

BLUETOOTH-EQUIPPED GPS HYBRID WAVE CEPTOR

OTHER TOUGH FEATURES TRIPLE G RESIST

This tough structure is designed to withstand three types of gravitational acceleration: external shocks, centrifugal gravity and vibrations. So it will easily stand up to your commute.

MAGNETIC RESISTANCE

A magnetism-resistant plate installed in the module prevents stoppage or shifting of the hands due to magnetic forces.

CARBON FIBRE INSERT BAND GPS reception can be poor in the clouds, inside large buildings and underground. To compensate, the GPW-2000 features both Bluetooth connectivity and a dedicated smartphone app, developed exclusively for the Gravitymaster line. When adjusting the time, the watch automatically chooses either Bluetooth or GPS depending on whichever signal is stronger, ensuring that you’ll always have the correct time anywhere in the world.

This means you get: - Automatic time adjustment to let you know the time whichever zone you are in - World time for over 300 cities, automatically accounting for daylight saving time - A nifty flight log function which tracks your route – be it across the city or across the skies

Fine resin parts are installed at both ends of the band shaft and fixed with carbon stoppers, strengthening the connections between case and band.

GPW-2000-1AJF (¥100,000 plus tax)

GPW-2000-1A2JF (¥100,000 plus tax)

For more information on Casio’s latest timepieces and where to purchase yours, visit world.g-shock.com

Eating & Drinking Cooking up a storm Mikako Mochizuki counts down the five most exciting young chefs making a splash in Tokyo’s culinary scene

SHUSAKU TOBA AT GRIS

Foregoing the customary apprenticeships abroad, 32-year-old Shusaku Toba studied the art of both Italian and French cooking right here in Tokyo. Toba’s homeboy attitude has resulted in an incredible fusion of washoku and cuisine française. At Gris in Yoyogi-Uehara, he conjures up artistic dishes such as the cacao nib foie gras sakura. This bonsai-inspired dish consists of a foie gras mousse and macaron base paired with essentially Japanese ingredients including miso, buckwheat seeds, and cherry blossoms pickled in salt. The slightly bitter cacao nibs sprinkled on top provide the finishing touch. Toba, who aims to create flavours ‘unique to Tokyo’, also dreams of making his place an international destination – if Toba won’t go to the world, then the world will come to Toba. Lunch ¥4,500, dinner ¥7,000. à Daiichi Ueharado Bldg 1F, 1-35-3 Uehara, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Uehara Station). 03 6804 7607. gris-yoyogiuehara.com. 6pm-9pm (lunch Sat, Sun & hols only 12noon-1.30pm), closed Wed, 2nd Tue of the month.

A restaurant that can raise the profile of an entire neighbourhood is a rarity, but Italian eatery Don Bravo has managed just that out west in Kokuryo. 38-year-old chef Masakazu Taira’s ‘Italian food unique to Japan’ is the product of a long culinary journey: after kicking off his career under the revered Tosei Hayashi at much-missed Hiroo eatery Acca, Taira honed his craft at several Michelin-starred establishments in Italy before returning to Japan for one more apprenticeship in Tokyo. Having broken out on his own in 2012, the patient chef chose to set up Don Bravo in his humble home hood of Kokuryo. The local flavour is pronounced in Taira’s dishes, which are made with ingredients sourced from across Japan. In summer, the prix fixe meals start with an ayu (sweetfish) confit of mascarpone mousse, bettara-zuke pickles, pickled Kagata cucumber and kale powder – a wonderfully summery dish that’ll have you feeling the season as soon as the plate is laid in front of you. So what are you waiting for?

Make like the Village People and go west. Lunch from ¥1,100, dinner ¥5,000/¥7,000/¥10,000. à 3-6-43 Kokuryocho, Chofu (Kokuryo Station). 042 482 7378. www.donbravo.net. 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-11pm, closed Wed. Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

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GRIS, DON BRAVO, PATH, LA BONNE TABLE: KISA TOYOSHIMA. KIKI: KEISUKE TANIGAWA.

MASAKAZU TAIRA AT DON BRAVO

YUKI NODA AT KIKI

Hidden away in a quiet back alley just steps from the hustle and bustle of Harajuku lies Kiki, the domain of haute cuisine wizard Yuki Noda. Having moved to France at 22, Noda (now 34) worked at venerable Paris establishment Taillevent before returning to Japan to take up the sous chef position under Christophe Paucod at Kagurazaka’s Lugdunum Bouchon Lyonnais. Noda went independent in 2011, leaving behind the hallowed halls of Michelinstarred restaurants in favour of a more casual setting in the form of Kiki. Hoping to attract a young clientele with seven-course dinners priced at a reasonable ¥5,000, he is particularly fond of seasonal fruit and berries. His salade lyonnaise combines Indian mustard, arugula and beets with strawberries and raspberries, bacon and chickpeas. Relying exclusively on Japanese ingredients, he believes that French cuisine on these shores should aim to reveal the ‘non-Japanese side’ of domestic produce.

Lunch ¥3,800, dinner ¥5,000, à la carte available.

TAICHI HARA AND YUICHI GOTO AT PATH

Having brought a puff pastry-powered bromance to its logical conclusion, chef Taichi Hara, 36, and pâtissier Yuichi Goto, 36, teamed up two years ago to open Path and the duo’s bistro-café has already become a sensation in Shibuya’s Tomigaya. After a spell together at the Hyatt Regency hotel’s Cuisines Michel Troisgros, Hara left to open Bistro Rojiura in Shibuya, while Goto went on to become the first Asian chief pâtissier at Troisgros’s flagship restaurant in France.

Reunited they’ve ditched the formal white tablecloths and starched chef’s coats and made Path a laidback delight.

The breakfasts are renowned. Baked by Goto every morning, the croissants made with homemade raisin yeast often sell out in a few hours, whereas Hara’s dutch pancakes, topped with uncured ham, burrata and copious amounts of maple syrup, are what make eager gourmands trek across town and queue up before the 8am opening time. Breakfast ¥1,000¥2,000, dinner ¥5,800, à la carte available.

à 6-9-9 Jingumae, Shibuya (Meiji-Jingumae Station). 070 3882 3150. kikioishii.com. 11.30am-12midnight, closed Wed.

à A-Flat Bldg, 1-44-2 Tomigaya, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Koen Station). 03 6407 0011. tinyurl. com/TOTpathtokyo. 8am-2pm, 6pm-12midnight (last orders 11pm), closed Mon, one Sunday per month (irregularly).

KAZUNARI NAKAMURA AT LA BONNE TABLE

It’s no exaggeration to say that Shinobu Namae, head chef at the magnificent L’Effervescence in Nishi-Azabu, owes some of his fame to Kazunari Nakamura. The double-Michelin-starred master’s righthand man for years, Nakamura struck out on his own in 2014, taking over La Bonne Table – a casual alternative to his very fancy former haunt. Still only 36, the jovial cook has earned many a fan with dishes such as the artistic shiitake mushroom boudin noir narazuke, all made with ingredients delivered fresh directly from farms and fishermen.

His harmonious symbiosis of Western and Japanese flavours is made by cutting small slits into the stems of the mushrooms, baking them until fragrant, and then combining these with boudin sausage and vegetables pickled in sake lees. While everything packs a punch, there’s more to La Bonne Table than flavour. Nakamura is dedicated to ecological eating, using ingredients and cuts of meat that might be discarded at more expensive places. ‘Edible ingredients are a limited resource,’ he says. ‘So I strive to serve sustainable food.’ Lunch ¥3,960, dinner ¥8,250 (à la carte available after 8.30pm). à Coredo Muromachi 2 1F, 2-3-1 Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo (Mitsukoshimae Station). 03 3277 6055. labonnetable.jp. 11.30am-1.30pm, 6pm-9.30pm, closed every second Wed.

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July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Eating & Drinking

Gyoza revolution

The beloved comfort food is having a new moment in the sun. By Yasuhisa Shimbo GYOZA, THE JAPANESE, pan-fried version of China’s boiled

ANDA GYOZA

Anda Gyoza in Yoyogi-Uehara has to be one of the most laidback eateries in all of Tokyo. No surprise then that the owner tells us it was always intended to be a place for casual snacking – a diner you could stop by in your pyjamas if so inclined.

Unlike at most gyoza joints in town, Anda’s dumplings are boiled, not fried, making them light and stomach-friendly even late at night. The dough they use is made from whole-grain pearl barley, while the edges of the dumplings are tucked in so as to give them a cute, flower-like appearance. In another break from tradition, all four fillings on the menu are completely garlic- and chive-free. Choose from ginger-cabbage, coriander-cucumber (both mixed with chicken), pickles-daikon or curry-carrot (mixed with pork). Combine your pick with a serving of minced pork rice or a bowl of lightly flavoured seaweed soup. Drinkers will want to check out the fearsome Baijiu highball.

or steamed ‘jiaozi’ dumpling, has long been an essential snack enjoyed by everyone from ravenous five-year-olds to inebriated salarymen in need of a late-night stamina boost. Gyoza is now even being adopted by aficionados of Japanese food overseas, with fancy ‘gyoza bars’ springing up in cities like Paris, New York and London recently. But back at the source, there’s some intriguing innovation going on: here, we look at five Tokyo specialists that, while embracing tradition, offer new and exciting takes on the humble dumpling.

à 3-21-2 Nishihara, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Uehara Station). 03 6407 8813. andagyoza.tumblr.com. 11.30am-11pm, closed Tue.

GYOZA BAR COMME A PARIS

For most gyoza fans, the dumplings are meant to be washed down with beer – but the good folks at this hip Aoyama joint are going against the grain, and pairing their dumplings with wine. Both their meat and vegetable gyoza are made without any garlic, which apparently makes them supremely vino-friendly. Excellent homemade sauces with flavours such as Provence herb and white miso add to the French fusion feel, while dishes such as ‘onion gratin gyoza’ further blur the culinary borders. In addition to the myriad variety of bottles on offer, you can also grab a good selection by the glass – there are always two options available for red, white or sparkling. à Aoyama Alcove 205, 2-2-4 Shibuya, Shibuya (Omotesando Station). 03 6427 6116. www.aoyama-gyozabar.com.

4pm-11.45pm, closed Sun. Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

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à 2-3-10 Sangenjaya, Setagaya (Sangenjaya Station). 03 6805 4665.

Mon-Sat 5pm-2am (last orders 1am), Sun & hols 5pm-12midnight (11pm).

ANDA GYOZA, GYOZA BAR COMME A PARIS, IKEJIRI GYOZA: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. GYOZA SHACK, YANGXIANG AJIBO: YASUHISA SHIMBO

GYOZA SHACK

As the name implies, this Sangenjaya eatery is low on airs and graces. Thankfully it is big on gyoza, serving up the most innovative bundles of goodness in western Tokyo. Additives are off the table completely, the dough is made with whole-grain flour and the voluminous dumplings are filled with offbeat organic ingredients. Their signature Shack gyoza incorporate heirloom Shonai pork from Yamagata prefecture and are big enough to satisfy even the most ravenous eaters.

Some of the gyoza dishes can be ordered in either pan-fried, boiled or deep-fried form, giving you room for customisation – and an excuse for repeat visits. None of the Shack’s creations contain garlic or chives, but garlic oil is provided at each table should you need an extra kick. Wash it all down with a glass of natural wine or some junmai daiginjo sake from Yamagata’s Tatenokawa brewery, and finish off with a plate of banana- and cream cheese-filled ‘dessert gyoza’.

Eating & Drinking IKEJIRI GYOZA

Relying on the gyoza-making magic of septuagenarian superchef Madame Rose, this Ikejiri-Ohashi shop is so welcoming and homely you’ll want to move in. Rose used to only make gyoza for her family before being persuaded to make her dumplings public by a businessminded acquaintance, and the home comforts remain. Start with the Hajimari no Zen (‘beginning platter’), which lets you sample five different types of carefully crafted gyoza, including a chicken-coriander variety, a veg-only version, and gyoza large enough to house a whole shrimp. They all pale in comparison to our favourite, the Aoba gyoza, which features soft, moist skin infused with chicken broth and, it’s said, can only be perfectly recreated by Madame Rose herself. Got someone to impress? Opt for the garlic-free, ginger-flavoured dumplings, which were added to the menu at the request of the many club hostesses that used to frequent the shop back when it was still based in Shinjuku. à 2-26-6 Ikejiri, Setagaya (Ikejiri-Ohashi Station). 03 6453 1968. 11.30am-2.30pm (Wed-Sat), 4pm-12midnight (last orders 11pm), closed Mon, 2nd Sun of the month.

YANGXIANG AJIBO

Ajibo, a Kanda eatery renowned for its northeastern Chinese cuisine, is one of the city’s top purveyors of all things lamb. Yangxiang Ajibo, its newly opened and wonderfully casual Okachimachi sister branch, upholds this tradition while adding a few twists to the menu. Don’t miss the boiled Yangxiang gyoza, stuffed with lamb and coriander and neatly wrapped in a house-made dumpling that can barely contain the explosion of juicy flavour. And as with the original Ajibo, the wine list is carefully curated: look out for natural wines picked out by Shinsaku Katayama, the owner of pioneering Roppongi wine bar Shonzui. With reasonable prices, a downto-earth atmosphere and the best lamb gyoza in town, this spot is already wildly popular – best book a seat while you still can. à3-12-6 Ueno, Taito (Okachimachi Station). 03 6803 0168. Mon-Fri 11.30am-11pm, Sat, Sun & hols 1pm-10pm.

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July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Eating & Drinking

Wrap stars Mari Hiratsuka points you in the direction of Tokyo’s finest falafel

PITA THE GREAT: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. FALAFEL BROTHERS: MARI HIRATSUKA

FINDING A PROPER FALAFEL joint in the capital can be a bit of a mission. One of the most culinarily diverse places on earth, Tokyo appears to have a bit of a blind spot when it comes to food from the Middle East. But, if you know where to look, the city is home to some absolutely superb falafel – though you might need to trek halfway across town to get your hands on it. Here are our five favourites.

KUUMBA DU FALAFEL

Shibuya’s best falafel shop is harder to find than a bashful chameleon. Perched on a highway intersection a good 15 minutes’ walk from Shibuya Station, it doesn’t even have a sign outside to indicate that you’ve found the right place. Culinary pilgrims will be rewarded for their persistence, though: Kuumba du Falafel’s sandwiches (¥1,200, half size ¥880) are superb, crammed with so much fresh veg, fried aubergine, hummus and tahini sauce that they’re almost impossible to eat without making a mess. If you’re eating in, try adding some of the spicy sauce available at the tables for an extra kick. à 23-1 Shinsencho, Shibuya (Shinsen Station). 03 6416 8396. tinyurl.com/TOTkuumba. 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-8.30pm (Sun 11.30am-6.30pm), closed Mon.

PITA THE GREAT

No prizes for guessing what the speciality is at this long-running Tameike-Sanno takeaway, which opened back in 1993. Pita the Great prepares its bread in-store, and you’ll notice customers surreptitiously brushing flour from their clothes while they wait for their orders to arrive. The shop’s signature falafel sandwich (aka the ‘Big Pita’, ¥900) is a real piece of work, filled with roughly shaped patties that are fried to order, plus sauerkraut, salad, tahini and either tomato or spicy sauce. It’s a substantial meal as is, but for an extra ¥80 you can chuck on an additional topping of fried potatoes or onion. Just be prepared for the inevitable food coma that will follow. Be warned the opening hours are somewhat flexible, with the shop often closing early.

form. You can choose your toppings from a selection of ten or so options, including burdock kinpira, beetroot, carrot and jalapeño, and wash it all down with a bottle of Maccabee beer. The full-size falafel sandwich goes for a reasonable ¥900 and is large enough to satisfy the biggest of appetites, while a half size costs ¥500 and the salad bowl can be had for ¥1,000.

Add in the unbeatable location – right behind Roppongi Station – and you’ve got yourself a winner. à 5-1-10 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 6459 2844. tinyurl.com/TOTfalafelbros. 11am-10pm, closed Sun.

Run by a Japanese woman with an Egyptian husband, this inconspicuous and homely deli in Higashi-Kitazawa does its falafel a little differently. Here you’ll find a southern Egyptian take on the flavour bombs, made with dried fava broad beans rather than chickpeas.

They’re often eaten plain in Egypt, but you can have them in a pita sandwich (¥540) topped with pickles, tomato and sesame sauce. Lamb and chicken kebabs, Egyptian stew, and fried chicken bentos are also on offer. There’s only room for eight diners inside, so when the sun’s out, get your food to go and head for the nearby Kitazawa Park. à 3-2-11 Kitazawa, Setagaya (Higashi-Kitazawa Station). 03 3468 2715. tinyurl.com/TOTuchimura. 11am-3pm, 5pm-8.30pm, closed Sun, 3rd Mon of the month.

TA-IM

The chance to strike up conversation with friendly owner Dan Zuckerman is one of the many attractions at this casual Israeli restaurant roughly halfway between Ebisu and Hiroo. At lunchtime, you can choose from six types of pita sandwich, including ones filled with falafel (¥1,180) and chicken schnitzel (¥1,280). In the evening, the menu broadens to include baba ghanoush, kebabs and other Middle Eastern favourites, while the drink list extends to Maccabee beer and Israeli wines. à 1-29-16 Ebisu, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 03 5424 2990. tinyurl. com/TOTtaim. 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-11pm (last orders 10pm), Sun 6pm-10pm (9pm), closed Wed.

à ATT Shinkan 2F, 2-11-7 Akasaka, Minato (Tameike-Sanno Station).

03 5563 0851. tinyurl.com/TOTpita. Hours vary.

FALAFEL BROTHERS

Shaking things up in Roppongi since February 2017, the takeout-only Falafel Brothers has shot straight into Tokyo’s falafel hall of fame with its fried-to-order, crispy and gluten-free treats, served in both sandwich and salad Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

UCHIMURA EGYPTIAN DELI SHOP

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Promotional feature LOCAL INSIGHT

A timeless timepiece RELEASED IN 1969, Seiko’s Quartz Astron is a symbol of the company’s unwavering dedication to improving its products. The world’s first quartz watch, it breathed new life into the industry and has evolved constantly ever since, with the Seiko Astron becoming the first GPS solar watch on the market in 2012. Today, it is recognised as one of the finest and most reliable high performance watches out there, an emblem of refined class.

RESTLESS INNOVATION

While other GPS solar watches have followed Seiko’s lead, the everevolving Astron has taken advantage of its pioneer status to stay a step ahead of the competition.

These are the latest developments that ensure the Astron continues to lead while others follow.

AUTOMATIC TIME ADJUSTMENT

THE GPS MODULE SEIKO RING ANTENNA

The powerful ring-shaped antenna below the Astron’s bezel can receive GPS signals at any angle.

Receiving a GPS signal traditionally consumes quite a bit of electricity, but Seiko’s innovative GPS module has all the connectivity while using much less power, making it possible to receive the signal more frequently.

As soon as the Astron’s dial comes into contact with sunlight, the watch springs into life – automatically adjusting the time in five seconds.

What if the weather’s poor or the watch is hidden up your sleeve? Not to worry: the Astron’s smart sensor memorises the previously received time and adjusts to the correct time accordingly.

L ED IMI IT TE IO D N

New forms

SBXB121: GUIGIARO DESIGN – FOR THE ACTIVE AND STYLISH GENTLEMAN

Created in collaboration with Giorgetto Giugiaro, one of the 20th century’s most influential supercar designers, only 3,000 of these limited-edition watches have been manufactured. Released at the end of May, the watch incorporates the essence of luxury Italian engineering, boasting a fluid form with the country’s colours and a dial placed in an asymmetric position from the band.

Perfect for collectors and car lovers alike.

SBXB123: EXECUTIVE LINE – FOR THE STYLISH EXECUTIVE ON THE MOVE

With a sapphire crystal bezel – a first for the series – and sleek new casing, the latest addition to the Astron family offers a clearer view and a luxurious look for the itinerant executive seeking understated and effortless style.

SBXB123 Executive Line ¥250,000(plus tax) Case size: 51.4 x 46.1mm Titanium case Sapphire crystal

SBXB121 Seiko Astron Giugiaro Design Limited Edition ¥300,000 (plus tax) Case size: 54.4 x 46.3mm Titanium case Sapphire crystal

Shopping & Style

Fresh faced

MAKANAI COSME KONNYAKU SPONGE

Long heralded as a super food, it looks like konjac could save your skin too. This sponge is made from natural fibres derived from the root of the konjac plant and expertly exfoliates and cleanses the skin after a long day out in the heat.

The sponge contains natural moisture-rich properties so you don’t even need any soap – just make sure to wash your face before using it. ¥756.

à Makanai Kagurazaka, 3-1 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku (Iidabashi Station).

03 3235 7663. makanaicosmetics.co.jp. Mon-Sat 10.30am-8pm, Sun & hols 11am-7pm.

Summer got you feeling all hot and bothered? Here are some of our favourite summer beauty and skincare products to cool you down.

By Kaila Imada

SAKURAJIMA TSUBAKI OIL

Rich in antioxidants, this multi-purpose oil has been used for centuries as a moisturiser for both the skin and hair. As a facial moisturiser it can protect against environmental exposure, but it is on the locks that it comes into its own, taming those frizzy flyaway hairs and keeping things smooth and sleek when the humidity gets a bit unbearable. ¥1,200 for 100ml.

CANMAKE CREAM CHEEK

This cheek-coloured cream gives you a healthy glow all season long and comes in a handy little compact which can easily be slipped into any bag or travel case. Its silky gel-like consistency dries easily after application and won’t melt during the summer months. ¥580.

à D47 Design Travel Store, Shibuya Hikarie 8F, 2-21-1 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 6427 2301. hikarie8.com/d47designtravelstore.

Daily 11am-8pm.

à All Loft stores in Tokyo. loft.omni7.jp/fair/canmake.

SHISEIDO MEDICATED BABY POWDER

Use this nifty powder compact during the warmer months to keep that not-so-pleasant facial shine under control.

Although it’s labelled as a baby powder, it also works for adults, is gentle on the face and doubles as a finishing powder to set make-up before heading out the door. ¥350. à All Don Quijote stores and most drugstores in Tokyo.

Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

42

THE EYE TEAM

The sunglasses shops leaving everyone else in the shade

OIL-BLOTTING FACIAL PAPER ‘ABURATORIGAMI’

KAMURO

A subtle skin saviour, these luxurious blotting sheets will wipe away everything summer throws at your skin and are made from delicate washi (traditional Japanese) paper. The sheets won’t disturb the makeup that’s already applied on your face, while still maintaining the health and vitality of your skin. It’s an ingenious item for those summer touch-ups on the go.

Starting at ¥440.

What once began as a small eyeglass shop in Ginza has now turned into a full-blown business. Kamuro’s styles and colours are as quirky as it gets, while the frames are made to fit gently around a variety of nose types. Have fun trying on their glasses for a fashion-forward look that might make it a bit hard to pick out just one. From ¥25,000. à 7-5-19 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03 5537 5886. kamuro-net.co.jp. 11am-8pm (7pm on Sun), closed Tue.

à Yojiya Haneda Airport, 2-6 Haneda Airport, Ota. www. yojiya.co.jp/pages/haneda-dfs.html. 24 hours daily.

BIORE UV AQUA RICH WATERY ESSENCE SPF 50+ The one thing that absolutely everyone should be wearing this summer, sunscreen is a Tokyo essential come rain or shine. The city’s rays have a habit of catching people out, so layer up with Biore’s finest.

Featuring a sky high SPF and waterproof properties perfect for the sweaty months, it is one of the best suncreams going. ¥864.

MASUNAGA 1905

This famed framer has been turning out one-of-a-kind Japanesemade frames from Fukui prefecture since 1905. Their flagship store in Kita-Aoyama offers an exclusive array of frames and sunglasses that lean heavily on timeless styles. Each pair of glasses are lovingly handmade with over 200 steps to turn raw materials into eyewear perfection. From ¥35,000.

à Most drugstores around town.

KEANA NADESHIKO RICE MASK

à 2-12-34 Kita-Aoyama, Minato (Gaienmae Station). 03 3403 1905. masunaga1905.com.

11am-8pm, closed 1st & 3rd Tue of the month.

This hydrating mask is made from organic Japanese rice with a nourishing serum of ingredients derived from sake, rice bran oil and rice ceramides. Just apply it on your face whenever you need a cool down. ¥650.

SOLAKZADE

Not your typical eyewear shop, Solakzade’s Harajuku boutique is home to a distinctive range of vintage and antique styles sourced from Japan and around the globe. The shop has a particularly broad selection of styles in its 10,000-frame trove, including a few shades that date back all the way to the 1800s. The basement of the shop is reserved for customisation, restoration and repair, where their expert team are also able to create the perfect pair of bespoke glasses. Vintage glasses from ¥20,000.

à Ainz & Tulpe Harajuku, 1F & B1F, 1-13-14 Jingumae, Shibuya (Meiji-Jingumae Station).

03 5775 0561. ainz-tulpe.jp. Daily 10am-11pm.

à B1F, 4-29-4 Jingumae, Shibuya (Meiji-Jingumae Station). 03 3478 3345. solakzade.com.

3pm-8pm (Wed by appointment only).

KISS ME HEROINE MAKE VOLUME AND CURL MASCARA SUPER WATERPROOF

SPECTACLES MUSEUM

From the more is more school of thought, The Spectacles Museum boasts rack upon rack of budget-friendly frames. While it can make for a dizzying browsing experience, you’re sure to emerge with a unique pair of sunglasses at a friendly price. From ¥280.

A waterproof mascara which comes in perfect black, Kiss Me Heroine Make has enough volume to give your lashes pow without tipping you into goth territory. The best part? It even holds your lashes’ curl through the most humid of weather, when other mascaras wilt leaving lashes sad and limp. ¥1,000.

à 3-16-9 Minami-Ikebukuro, Toshima (Ikebukuro Station). 03 3984 5652. rougan-meganehakubutsukan.com. 10.30am-7pm, closed Wed.

à Most drugstores around town.

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July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Shopping & Style

Take it outside Five Tokyo shops worth visiting for campers, hikers and climbers. By Shiori Kotaki WITH SUMMER FESTIVAL SEASON already upon us and the city quickly getting too hot for comfort, it’s time to head out into the great outdoors. But hiking in sneakers or trying to desperately pitch your parents’ old tent when the rain is already pouring down can make anyone want to turn into a couch potato. Avoid equipment mishaps and get geared up the right way at these four Tokyo shops, which will have you looking the part in no time. And for those who’d rather rent than buy, we’ve included a one-stop hire outlet as well.

Akishima Moripark Outdoor Village For more variety than you could ever ask for, make for this cluster of 14 outdoor-focused stores way out in Tokyo’s western suburbs. The shop selection at Moripark Outdoor Village includes clothing, bag and tent specialists, plus big-name brand outlets such as Coleman and The North Face. There’s also an insole processing service that’ll help you attain the perfect fit for your walking or hiking boots. Our favourite is the bouldering and yoga gym, which can be used by anyone who completes the registration process.

And when you tire of all the shopping, head for the central plaza and its three restaurants and cafés.

MORIPARK OUTDOOR VILLAGE, MAUNGA, MONTBELL: KISA TOYOSHIMA. L-BREATH, YAMADOGU: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

à 610-4 Tanakacho, Akishima (Akishima Station). 042 541 0700. outdoorvillage.tokyo/lang/ index.html. Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri 11am-8pm, Sat, Sun & hols 10am-8pm, closed Wed.

Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

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L-Breath Shinjuku In addition to an enviable location – just two minutes’ walk from Shinjuku Station’s southeast exit – this urban megastore stands out with its unparalleled lineup of camping gear, sportswear, hiking boots and cycling gear.

The ten-storey complex is almost too large to take on in one go, so you might want to check out only a few floors at first.

The standout section is on the third floor, where more than 500 backpacks of all shapes and sizes line the walls. You’ll find everything from serious hiking packs to kids’ versions, with even more stock hidden away in the back. Detailed explanations for each backpack are written in Japanese on labels near each bag, while English-speakers will find the expert staff more helpful. à 4-1-11 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 3354 8951. www.victoria.co.jp/ taxfree/english. 11am-9pm (Sun & hols until 8.30pm).

Shopping & Style

Maunga Kichijoji Both a buyer and seller of outdoor clothing and camping equipment, Maunga is a superb destination for those on the lookout for secondhand gear at reasonable prices.

Cleaned and repaired, the items are ranked by condition – A to D – and priced accordingly.

Most of the stuff on display is graded B or C, and are about half the price they’d be new. You’ll find shoes, clothing, backpacks, hats, cooking utensils, lamps and tents, with available brands including local stalwarts Montbell, Keen and Gregory. à 1-3-9 Gotenyama, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 24 7630. www.maunga.jp. Daily 12noon-9pm.

Yamadogu Rental Shop If you’re a less committed camper – or simply don’t fancy flying back with three times the luggage – stop by this Shinjuku dealer for a quick rental. They allow you to bring the gear back straight after use, without worrying about cleaning or carrying it all the way back to Tokyo – use the COD slip provided to drop your item off for return shipping at the nearest convenience store. Two days with a sevenpiece hiking set, which includes rainwear, trekking poles, a backpack and shoes, can be had for ¥13,000, while more expensive packages also come with helmets. Individual pieces of clothing are also available, so music festival-goers can easily pick up an extra layer of wear in advance just to be on the safe side. See their English-language website for a full list of items and reservations. à 6F, 1-13-7 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 050 5865 1615. www. yamarent.com/en?language=en. 12noon-7pm, closed Tue.

Montbell Futako-Tamagawa A Japanese outdoor brand founded by mountaineer Isamu Tatsuno in 1975, Montbell set up its latest Tokyo outpost in FutakoTamagawa in April this year. Specialising in items that are light and easy to carry, they currently operate 13 outlets across the city, with this two-storey one being one of the largest. On the ground floor you’ll find the Stretch Wind Parka, a supremely flexible jacket that, although not 100 percent waterproof, can handle light rain and makes for the perfect emergency solution when the weather turns sour up in the mountains. à Q Plaza Futako-Tamagawa 1-2F, 2-24-1 Tamagawa, Setagaya (Futako-Tamagawa Station). 03 6805 7918. en.montbell.jp. Daily 10am-9pm.

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July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Art & Culture

Just add water IN 1968, FOUR YEARS after the first Tokyo Olympics, there were 2,660 sento bathhouses in Tokyo. Today that number stands at 600 – a dramatic drop that is reflected across the country and concisely illustrates how serious the issues facing Japan’s public bathing culture have become. With even box-sized studio apartments in Tokyo now coming equipped with a tub, sleek spa facilities (so-called ‘super sento’) dominating the market, and the proprietors of old-school bathing establishments ageing along with their buildings, there appears to be little that can be done to save the sento.

But where most Tokyoites see crisis, Kentaro Imai senses opportunity. An architect who has already led the renovation of around 15 sento, most of them in Tokyo, he is attracting people back to the bathhouses with beautiful interiors that fuse traditional Japanese imagery with modern designs. Dubbed ‘designer sento’ by the media, Imai’s creations are winning over Tokyo’s 20- and 30-somethings – a demographic that has previously been considered far less passionate about public bathing than their parents and grandparents.

Imai has also been instrumental in introducing the concept of accessibility to sento operators, emphasising the removal of stairs and steps during renovations and making sure that the baths he designs have sufficient handrails and grab bars.

The city’s relatively few young sento owners have eagerly come out in support for Imai, welcoming his method of creating an Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

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all-encompassing concept and coming up with a bespoke design for each bathhouse together with the operator and regulars. This approach is standard practice in most Japanese renovation projects, but was challenging to bring into the sento industry, where contractors have historically been given free rein over everything.

Despite the pioneering nature of his work, Imai believes in evolution, not revolution.

‘It’s incredibly unfortunate that we seem to be losing our public bathing culture, which was once an integral part of life in Tokyo,’ he says.

‘In order to make sure that this tradition lives on into the future, I try to leave the original style and details of bathhouses intact while adding new elements that make the experience more pleasant. Ideally, the result feels both new and familiar.’

Imai is also confident that his reimagined bathhouses can encourage the ‘super sento’ gang to return to the originals. ‘As long as customers feel satisfied and comfortable, they’ll keep coming back,’ he says. ‘If you have the right concept, that’s possible – you don’t have to install a huge number of different baths or turn yourself into a spa.’ Although the sento industry’s structural struggles, most notably the difficulty of recruiting and educating the next generation of proprietors, won’t be resolved overnight, Imai’s work has given fans of communal soaking new hope. We’ll be watching his next move closely – who knows, perhaps public bathhouses are in for another post-Olympic golden era?

KENTARO IMAI: MANABU MOROOKA. MIKOKUYU: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Kunihiro Miki meets sento architect Kentaro Imai, who is pouring new life into Tokyo’s bathhouse culture

‘It’s incredibly unfortunate that we seem to be losing our public bathing culture, which was once an integral part of life in Tokyo’ OKURAYU

TOKYO’S TOP FIVE

MIKOKUYU

Teaming up with the second-generation owner, whose dream had been to turn his bathhouse into a place accessible to everyone, Imai transformed Mikokuyu in Azumabashi into a completely barrier-free sento. The most visible symbol of this rebirth is the fully accessible family bath on the ground floor, which can be rented out by groups.

Sento designed by Kentaro Imai

Imai’s newest creation was completed in late 2016 way out west in Machida. Aiming to stem the flow of customers leaving Okurayu for the new ’super sento’ opened nearby, the owner hired Imai to freshen up his traditional bathhouse. The architect’s response was to cut down on, well, everything – an approach that resulted in what could be Tokyo’s most minimalist soak spot. à 522 Kisomachi, Machida (Kobuchi Station). 042 723 5664. ookurayu.com. 2pm-11pm, closed Fri.

à 3-30-8 Ishiwara, Sumida (Honjo-Azumabashi Station). 03 3623 1695. mikokuyu.com. 3.30pm-2am, closed Mon.

KOHMEISEN

Kohmeisen reopened in 2014 in the heart of trendy Nakameguro. A rotenburo (outside bath) is available on only one side of the sento, so the men’s and women’s sides are swapped every week to allow everyone to experience rooftop bathing – a rare treat in central Tokyo. à 1-6-1 Kamimeguro, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). 03 3463 9793. kohmeisen.com. 3pm-1am.

TAIHEIYU

CHIYONOYU

à 6-21-3 Aoi, Adachi (Aoi Station). 03 3887 4564. adachi1010. tokyo/member/taiheiyu. 2.30pm-12midnight, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a holiday).

à 2-20-3 Takaban, Meguro (Gakugei-Daigaku Station). 03 3712 1271. tiyonoyu.com. 7.30am-1am (Mon until 12midnight).

Imai’s first bathhouse project was the wholesale renovation of this Adachi-ku sento completed in 2001. Making the most of the relatively small space, Imai added a lengthy ‘walk-through bath’ reflecting his vision of how old and cramped Tokyo sento can be turned into more open spaces.

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With its deep blue wall tiles and high ceiling, one corner of Meguro’s Chiyonoyu resembles a cave. An Imai original, this quirky bath is filled with artificially carbonated hot spring water and was designed to be a place to clear your mind. Known as a ‘meditation bath’, it’s become a familiar feature at Imai-designed sento across Tokyo.

July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Art & Culture

ESSENTIAL EXHIBITIONS

<HUMIDIFIER> ±0, 2004, NAOTO FUKASAWA DESIGN

New shows to see Explore the diversity of Southeast Asian art, look back at the career of a Japanese photography legend and peek into the Buddhist underworld at summer’s best art events

àPanasonic Shiodome Museum, Jul 8-Oct 1.

Panasonic Tokyo Shiodome Bldg 4F, 1-5-1 HigashiShinbashi, Minato. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/ TOTfukasawa. 10am-6pm, closed Wed & Aug 14-16.

ALBERTO GIACOMETTI: COLLECTION FONDATION MARGUERITE ET AIMÉ MAEGHT

worldwide acclaim only years before his death, also dabbled in surrealism, abstraction and cubism. A total of more than 130 pieces will be on display, among them the remarkable life-sized sculpture ‘Walking Man I’.

àMori Art Museum and The National Art Center, Tokyo, Jul 5-Oct 23. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/ TOTsunshower. Mori Art Museum 10am-10pm (Tue until 5pm), The National Art Center, Tokyo 10am-6pm (Fri, Sat until 9pm), closed Tue.

àThe National Art Center, Tokyo, until Sep 4. 7-22-2 Roppongi, Minato. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/ TOTgiacometti. 10am-6pm (Fri, Sat until 8pm), closed Tue.

Continuing its star-studded tenth anniversary programme, which has already seen highprofile shows by Yayoi Kusama and Alfons Mucha, the NACT is delivering a large-scale retrospective of Swiss sculptor Alberto Giacometti this summer.

Forever associated with the tall, spindly, existential figures of his later years, the artist, who found Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

Roppongi is experiencing a complete Southeast Asian art takeover this summer, as both the National Art Center and the Mori Art Museum dedicate their vast halls to contemporary works from across the region. Focusing on art from the 1980s up to the present, ‘Sunshower’ could be the most significant exhibition of Southeast Asian art Japan has ever seen. It consists of nine sections, including ‘Passion and Revolution’, which focuses on the struggle for democracy in the postcolonial age, and ‘Day by Day’, a multifaceted look at everyday life in rapidly globalising and economically dynamic societies.

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YEE I-LANN (B.1971) MALAYSIA, FLUID WORLD (FROM THE SERIES "ORANG BESAR"), 2010, DIRECT DIGITAL MIMAKI INKJET PRINT, ACID DYE, BATIK CRACKLE JAPANESE INDIGO DYE, 100% SILK TWILL, 140.5 X 298CM, COURTESY: SILVERLENS GALLERIES, MAKATI, THE PHILIPPINES, (EXHIBITED AT THE NATIONAL ART CENTER, TOKYO)

Product designer Naoto Fukasawa has worked for everyone from no-brand giant Muji to Italian homeware company Alessi, while several of his designs have also been added to the permanent exhibition at New York’s MoMA. Considering such heavyweight credentials, it’s surprising that this Shiodome display is his first solo exhibition in Japan. The show space is divided into sections and decorated to resemble the rooms of a house, with Fukasawa’s award-winning appliances, chairs and lights installed throughout to display his work in the environment it was meant for – the home.

SUNSHOWER: CONTEMPORARY ART FROM SOUTHEAST ASIA 1980S TO NOW ALBERTO GIACOMETTI <WALKING MAN I > BRONZE 1960 ARCHIVES FONDATION MAEGHT, SAINT-PAUL DE VENCE (FRANCE)

AMBIENT: LIFESTYLE ITEMS DESIGNED BY NAOTO FUKASAWA

WONDERLAND OF BUDDHIST HELL SCENES

Things are about to get devilishly hot at the Mitsui Museum, as this survey of the Buddhist netherworld in art introduces Tokyoites to Enma Dai-O, the god of Hell, and Ksitigarbha, the bodhisattva of the damned, alongside a host of other fearsome inhabitants of the fiery realm. In addition to this ghastly cast, the artworks on display depict the cycle of existence, paradise and other central elements of Buddhist lore, while a lighter touch is provided by select drawings from manga master Shigeru Mizuki’s hellthemed comics. àMitsui Memorial Museum, Jul 15-Sep 3. Mitsui Main Building 7F, 2-1-1 Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/TOTwonderhell.

10am-5pm (Fri until 7pm), closed Mon (except Jul 17 & Aug 14) & Jul 18.

Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery, Jul 8-Sep 3. 3-20-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl. com/TOTaraki. 11am-7pm (Fri, Sat until 8pm), closed Mon (except Jul 17), Jul 18 & Aug 6.

INTRODUCTION TO CERAMICS: DISHES AND PLATES, LARGE AND SMALL

FIVE-SIDED DISHES, ZHANGZHOU WARE GROUP,PORCELAIN WITH OVERGLAZE ENAMELS CHINA MING DYNASTY, 17TH CENTURY, NEZU MUSEUM

You’ll be able to learn the ins and outs of ceramic plates at the Nezu Museum’s highly educational summer special, which goes

with extreme precision and with cleanly delineated, zigzagging strokes. This show, however, focuses on the resin-based approach that this pioneering conceptualist has focused on in his more recent work.

ROGER BALLEN + ASGER CARLSEN: NO JOKE

Released in Europe last year and now taking over the Diesel Gallery for its first Japan showing, ‘No Joke’ is a 37-image collaborative series that brings together two giants of the photography world.

American Roger Ballen has been based in South Africa for more than three decades and made his name documenting the poor and forgotten segment of that society, while Dane Asger Carlsen is famed for his often creepy but always engaging shots and sculptures of human bodies. See the duo’s disturbingly impactful creations in Shibuya throughout summer.

àPerrotin Tokyo, until Aug 19. Piramide Bldg 1F, 6-6-9 Roppongi, Minato. tinyurl.com/TOTsoulages.

11am-7pm, closed Sun, Mon.

ARCIMBOLDO: NATURE INTO ART

Milan-born artist Giuseppe Arcimboldo both charmed and confused his 16th-century contemporaries with fanciful portrait heads made of items such as fruits, vegetables, flowers, fish and books. Rediscovered by the Surrealists in the early 20th century, Arcimboldo is now considered a pioneer. Centred on a trove of his oil paintings borrowed from museums around the world, ‘Nature into Art’ also includes several related materials and works by the artists Arcimboldo inspired.

àNezu Museum, Jul 13-Sep 3. 6-5-1 MinamiAoyama, Minato. 03 3400 2536. tinyurl.com/ TOTnezuceramics. 10am-5pm, closed Mon (except Jul 17) & Jul 18.

PIERRE SOULAGES

The new Perrotin Tokyo is the latest outpost in Emmanuel Perrotin’s gallery empire that now stretches across eight spaces in five cities. This inaugural exhibition pays homage to French artist Pierre Soulages, who turns an impressive 98 years old this year. His connection with Japan runs deep, having first exhibited on these shores way back in 1951.

Soulages is best known for works that play on the twin extremes of light and darkness, painted

àThe National Museum of Western Art, until Sep 24. 7-7 Ueno Koen, Taito. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl. com/TOTarcimboldo. 9.30am-5.30pm (Fri, Sat until 8pm), closed Mon (except Jul 17, Aug 14 & Sep 18) & Jul 18.

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àDiesel Art Gallery, until Aug 17. B1F, 1-23-14 Shibuya, Shibuya. 03 6427 5955. tinyurl.com/ TOTballen. Daily 11.30am-9pm.

DEMONS, 2016 ©ROGER BALLEN + ASGER CARLSEN, IMAGE COURTESY DITTRICH & SCHLECHTRIEM, BERLIN

JIZO AND THE TEN KINGS OF HELL, COLOR ON SILK, EDO PERIOD, TOKAKU-JI, TOKYO (10/13)

Nobuyoshi Araki is arguably one of Japan’s greatest living photographers. Having worked consistently – some would say maniacally – since the 1960s, his oeuvre has been met with exalted praise and deep criticism alike, with people divided over its sensual, occasionally semipornographic imagery. This mega-show sees more than 1,000 of the divisive snapper’s newer photographs displayed alongside scrapbooks from Araki’s early years. One of the underlying themes here is the relation between life and death, which is also the red line tying all of Araki’s work together.

beyond simply explaining the history of notable pieces by demonstrating how people of bygone days actually used them in their daily lives. You’ll find dishes up to 60cm in diameter from the Chinese Yuan dynasty (13th-14th century) alongside delicate Japanese platters from the 17th century onward. After poring over these beauties for a couple of hours, you’ll never look at your own dishes in the same way.

GEP #1 PIERRE SOULAGES "PEINTURE", 157 × 222 CM, 28 FÉVRIER 2011”. ACRYLIC ON CANVAS, 157 × 222 CM PHOTO : VINENT CUNILLERE ©ADAGP, PARIS 2017 / COURTESY PERROTIN

NOBUYOSHI ARAKI: PHOTO-CRAZY A

GIUSEPPE ARCIMBOLDO <SPRING>, 1563, OIL ON OAK WOOD, MADRID, MUSEO DE LA REAL ACADEMIA DE BELLAS ARTES DE SAN FERNANDO

YUEN NO ONNA, 2017

Art & Culture

July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Music

Titanic tunes

1980s-’90s: Anime as social phenomenon ‘A CRUEL ANGEL’S THESIS’ FROM ‘NEON GENESIS EVANGELION’ (1995) BY YOKO TAKAHASHI

Takahiro Takeuchi looks back at the history of anime songs through five timeless hits

The term ‘otaku’ (geek, usually one obsessed with anime and manga) was coined in the 1980s and soon they had inherited the earth. Throughout the ’80s and ’90s anime and manga broke into the mainstream. Hayao Miyazaki’s work at Studio Ghibli was considered art, while franchises such as ‘Evangelion’, ‘Pokémon’ and ‘One Piece’ conquered pop culture.

Anime songs followed suit, and it was no longer rare to see them performed by established artists on the most mainstream of platforms.

The result was chart toppers such as ‘Odoru Pompokorin’ from the kids’ show ‘Chibi Maruko-chan’, which sold over 1.6 million records.

MUSIC AND JAPANESE ANIME have always been intertwined.

The intro and end credits are always accompanied by a song – usually one that embodies the show or film’s worldview. In the ’60s anime developed into a musical genre in its own right, evolving into what is now one of the most popular types of Japanese music out there. If you’re new to the joys of anime and don’t know where to start, fear not – we’ve picked out the five tracks that define this most joyous of genres.

2010s: The late-night anime boom and idol anime hits

SNOW RECORDS

‘ATTACK ON TITAN’ SEASON 2 VOL. 1, DISTRIBUTED BY PONY CANYON, DVD/BLU-RAY ¥19,800 PLUS TAX, © HAJIME ISAYAMA/KODANSHA ‘ATTACK ON TITAN’ PRODUCTION COMMITTEE

‘GUREN NO YUMIYA’ FROM ‘ATTACK ON TITAN’ (2013) BY LINKED HORIZON

1960s: The birth of anime song culture ‘ATOM MARCH’ FROM ‘ASTRO BOY’ (1963) BY KAMITAKADA BOYS’ CHOIR

Anime songs exploded into the public consciousness with the emergence of ‘Tetsuwan Atom’, Japan’s first full-scale animated TV series, known internationally as ‘Astro Boy’.

‘Atom March’, its opening theme, features lyrics written by poet and perennial Nobel Prize for Literature contender Shuntaro Tanikawa.

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The current decade has seen former late-night cult shows such as ‘Puella Magi Madoka Magica’ and ‘Attack on Titan’ grow into massive mainstream hits and spawn hugely popular feature-length films. Another trend has been the rise of anime series themed on ‘idol’ groups (pop groups performing heavily choreographed song-and-dance routines) – ‘The Idolmaster’ and ‘Love Live!’ are among the biggest hits – with these then turning out smash songs tied to their respective series’ story lines.

The latest craze, led by the ‘Kemono Friends’ series and its impossibly catchy opening theme, is so-called ‘moe’ anthropomorphism, in which animals, objects and even abstract concepts are represented as cute human characters – most of which can sing, of course.

’NEON GENESIS EVANGELION’ DIRECTOR: HIDEAKI ANNO BLU-RAY BOX ON SALE VIA KING RECORDS ©Khara/Project Eva

1970s: The emergence of the anime song artist ‘SPACE BATTLESHIP YAMATO’ FROM ‘SPACE BATTLESHIP YAMATO’ (1974) BY ISAO SASAKI

©2006 NAGARU TANIGAWA/NOIZI ITO/SOS

The 1970s saw the curtain open on a golden age of anime. This was the decade that gave rise to classics including ‘Space Battleship Yamato’, ‘Galaxy Express 999’ and ‘Mazinger Z’. The theme music from these series ended up being major anime song hits and were performed by the likes of Isao Sasaki and Ichiro Mizuki, both now considered legends of the genre.

These specialised artists performed at concerts and on radio and TV music shows, helping anime become appreciated as a musical genre in its own right.

2000s: The internet age and the voice actor boom ‘HARE HARE YUKAI’ FROM ‘THE MELANCHOLY OF HARUHI SUZUMIYA’ (2006) BY HARUHI SUZUMIYA, YUKI NAGATO AND MIKURU ASAHINA

By the time the new millennium rolled along, late-night series, which often tackle darker and more controversial topics, were proving that anime wasn’t just for the kids. The popularity of these series was fuelled by online word-of-mouth and music also embraced digital. The internet was becoming a breeding ground for exclusively anime-focused songwriters and singers, with composers uploading their works to public platforms and singers then posting their covers of these songs. The success of ‘Hare hare yukai’, the ending theme to the first season of late-night schoolgirl adventure series ‘The Melancholy of Haruhi Suzumiya’, established a new style of anime song in which characters from the show sing and dance to the theme.

Consequently, a select few stars led by Nana Mizuki began to blur the boundaries between voice acting and musical stardom.

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July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Music

Beats international

Got musical itchy feet? Kunihiro Miki and Hajime Oishi guide you to five Tokyo music bars where you can dance to tunes from distant shores

Bar Bossa

Will take you to: Brazil

The Brazilian-tinged Bar Bossa is one of Shibuya’s great hideaway bars. You can wash down your feijoada with wine, rum and caipirinhas while swinging gently to the mood-setting tropical beat. More a spot for mellow dining, listening and drinking in good company than a wild party venue, Bossa doesn’t allow solo patrons, so consider going with a good friend or that special someone.

Bar Blen Blen Blen Will take you to: Brazil

If you’re in the mood for drinking the night away to Brazilian grooves, head straight for this second-floor hideout in Shibuya where the samba and bossa nova are always turned up to eleven and the bar serves expertly mixed caipirinhas until 4am. Far more than a nostalgia joint, Blen Blen Blen often plays made-in-Brazil sounds trending in São Paulo or Rio right now, including local takes on hip hop and drum and bass. When you hear something you like, ask the owner for more details – this walking Wikipedia of Brazilian music is sure to prove more helpful than your Shazam app. à Nono Bldg 2F, 1-17-12 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3461 6533. blenblenblen.jp. 8pm-4am (irregular hours on Sundays), closed Mon & hols.

Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

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WORLD KITCHEN BAOBAB: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. BOSSA, BLEN BLEN BLEN, LOS BARBADOS, BAR KING RUM: MANABU MOROOKA

à No 2 Okubo Bldg 1F, 41-23 Udagawacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 5458 4185. barbossa.com.

6pm-12midnight, closed Sun & hols.

Music Los Barbados

Will take you to: Africa and the Arab world

This tiny, eight-seat bar on the outskirts of Shibuya is a true original, serving a diverse, vegetarianfriendly menu of African and Middle Eastern food, including falafel, couscous and meze. The drink selection is also substantial, including natural wines, rum, calvados and – somewhat surprisingly – a lineup of Basque digestifs. Whatever you do, don’t leave without trying the brik, a deep-fried Tunisian pastry stuffed with a soft-boiled egg, cheese and tuna – thick, crispy and irresistible. It’s all accompanied by a soundtrack of Afrobeat, ’60s and ’70s popular music from central Africa, and rare tunes from places such as Cape Verde, Martinique and Guadeloupe. à #104, 41-26 Udagawacho, Shibuya. 03 3496 7157. www7b.biglobe. ne.jp/~los-barbados. 12noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm, closed Sun.

THREE TOKYO BANDS PUTTING A NEW SPIN ON EXOTIC RHYTHMS MINYO CRUSADERS

Blending Japanese folk with Latin beats, this Tokyo collective brings together two polarised musical forms and creates a harmony so funky you can’t help but stand up and dance. American roots guitar titan Ry Cooder is reportedly a fan.

OKI DUB AINU BAND

Bar King Rum

Will take you to: the Caribbean

Equally devoted to the Caribbean’s signature liquor and the region’s musical genres, including ska, calypso and reggae, King Rum is a little piece of the tropics just a stone’s throw from Ikebukuro Station. With close to 350 different bottles lining the shelves behind the bar, you’ll have a real hard time finding a better rum lineup anywhere in the city, while the sun-kissed beats blaring from the speakers make your drink taste even better. Cuban cigars are available for those who like to double down on their poison. It’s hard to fully put into words how laidback the atmosphere is here: the fact their website hasn’t been updated since 2005 will give you a good idea. à Otaya Bldg 1F, 2-9-1 Ikebukuro, Toshima (Ikebukuro Station). 03 3980 2903. www.kingrum.jp. Daily 7pm-5am.

World Kitchen Baobab

Will take you to: the Caribbean, Africa, Central and South America

A cosmopolitan Kichijoji spot where you can enjoy music, food and alcohol from warmer climate zones, World Kitchen Baobab is almost considered a sacred place by Tokyo’s world music fans; it’s full of precious records and paraphernalia collected by the owner on his travels. There’s a particular focus on Latin and African beats, with performing artists serving up everything from reggae to Brazilian pop and ’60s-style surf rock. Check their website for the gig schedule and prepare for a mojito-fuelled evening that could well make you forget you’re in Tokyo. à Ohara Bldg B1F, 2-4-6 Kichijoji-Minamicho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 76 2430. wk-baobab.com. 6pm-1am (Fri, Sat until 4am).

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Led by Oki Kano, a descendent of northern Japan’s indigenous Ainu people, this six-piece play dub and African rhythms on traditional Ainu instruments such as the tonkori, a plucked string contraption. At its best, the end result sounds like nothing else on earth: a weird and intoxicating mix. à See them Aug 19 at the Sumida Street Jazz Festival in Kinshicho. sumida-jazz.jp.

SEPPUKU PISTOLS

Wielding taiko drums like they’re deadly weapons, this wild outfit give Japanese folk a punk facelift. Beneath the high-speed metallic clanking of atarigane (small gongs), their pounding compositions surge forward like a stampede, often incorporating shamisen sounds that could just as well come from electric guitars. If punk had existed in the Edo era, this is what it would have sounded like. àSee them Jul 15 at Shibuya Club Quattro, 5F, 32-13-4 Udagawacho, Shibuya. Doors 5pm, start 6pm. ¥3,500.

July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Nightlife Tokyo’s oldest and grandest temple is wildly busy during the day, but visiting after dark is usually far more rewarding: crowds are manageable, the mighty temple structures are lit up until 11pm, and the closed rolling doors of the 250m Nakamisedori shopping street are straight out of an Ikuo Hirayama painting. Strolling through the Kaminarimon gate and down the artsy arcade is recommended for romantics, while the izakayalined street on the west side of the temple complex is where to kick off a booze-fuelled evening.

Traditionally a sedate spot, Tokyo’s most touristy neighbourhood is getting used to staying up way past midnight. Mari Hiratsuka explores ASAKUSA IS NOT KNOWN for its nocturnal charms. It’s an obligatory stop on the Tokyo tourist trail, and few locals would have thought of looking for night-time things to do around the iconic Sensoji Temple.

Until very recently, that is. The run-up to the 2020 Olympics has seen a new breed of hip hotels and hostels open in Asakusa – a trend that’s led to a clutch of noteworthy after-dark spots popping up to meet rising demand. Here we look at how to have fun in Asakusa once the sun has set: start out at the magnificently illuminated Sensoji before digging deeper into the neighbourhood’s nightly charms.

SENSOJI TEMPLE

à 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 3842 0181. tinyurl.com/TOTsensoji.

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GONPACHI ASAKUSA AZUMABASHI

‘Kill Bill’, not many people know that Gonpachi is actually a small chain of restaurants, each with their own distinctive theme and atmosphere. While QT’s muse is in Nishi-Azabu, this branch opened in January 2017 and is their first in Asakusa, just a few steps away from the Kaminarimon and next to Azumabashi, with a great riverside view from the second floor. The Gonpachi folks craft everything from scratch: their soba is handmade in house every day, while the supremely beer-friendly yakitori skewers are grilled on binchotan (Japanese white charcoal) for a smoky kick. Note that reservations are recommended for the riverside seats. à Nakagawa Bldg 1-2F, 2-1-15 Kaminarimon, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 5830 3791. tinyurl.com/ TOTgonasakusa. 11.30am-11pm (last orders for food 10pm, drinks 10.30pm).

Famous as the restaurant that inspired the ‘Crazy 88’ fight scene in Quentin Tarantino's

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JAKOTSUYU

Although it's only five minutes' walk from Asakusa Station, in an alley just off Kokusai-dori, this sento bath house tends not to get much tourist traffic – which is all the more surprising when you consider that it's been going since the Edo period. The owners have given the place a few overhauls since then, and hardcore shitamachi geeks may be disappointed by the functional, modern interior. Still, the obligatory painting of Mount Fuji looms over the indoor bathing area, which features tubs filled with mineral-rich, dark brown water, while a stone path leads to the relaxing open-air zone complete with rotenburo (openair bath). The place is open until midnight, making a moonlit dip essential.

à 1-11-11 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station).

03 3841 8645. tinyurl.com/TOTjakotsuyu.

1pm-11.40pm, closed Tue. Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

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SENSOJI, UUTO, GOLDEN TIGER, BATTING STADIUM: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. YADOROKU: KISA TOYOSHIMA. GONPACHI, JAKOTSUYU: DAIKI SUZUKI

Asakusa after dark

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ASAKUSA BATTING STADIUM

Blow off some steam by swinging at mechanical pitches or perfecting your own fastball in the bullpen – this retro batting centre, opened in 1998, is instantly recognisable by the glowing neon sign that spells out ROX (the name of the building) and the giant glove above the entrance. Each ¥400 game gets you 20 pitches. The complex, which also houses other sporty mini-game arenas and a Taito video game arcade, stays open until 1am every day. à ROX Dome 2F, 1-27-10 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 3845 5515. tinyurl.com/TOTasabatting.

Daily 10.30am-1am.

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WIRED HOTEL ASAKUSA ZAKBARAN

Conjured up by Portland-based creative agency OMFGCO, known for their Ace Hotels in London and across the US, and the folks behind Tokyo’s ubiquitous Wired Café chain, the stylish Wired Hotel is one of the most exciting openings in Asakusa this year. On its ground floor you'll find Zakbaran, a cafébar that non-guests are welcome to use too. Sweets and snacks made from soy milk and tofu stud the menu, alongside a strictly curated, 12-strong sake lineup, while the regular ‘1Mile x 100Mile’ networking events usually see an engaging lineup of guest speakers and are fun for locals and visitors alike.

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à 2-16-2 Asakusa, Taito (Tawaramachi Station).

03 5830 7932. tinyurl.com/TOTwired. MonSat 7am-11pm (last orders 10pm), Sun & hols 7am-10pm (9pm).

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ONIGIRI ASAKUSA YADOROKU

Onigiri Asakusa Yadoroku has survived earthquakes, redevelopments and a multitude of foodie fads. Founded in 1954, Tokyo’s oldest onigiri specialist is distinguished by its counter, which is reminiscent of those found at upscale sushi restaurants, but the shop itself remains adorably down to earth.

Now run by the grandchildren of the founder, who set it up after her husband simply couldn’t be bothered to work any longer, Yadoroku roughly translates to ‘no-good sofa spud’ – which must have led to some interesting conversations around the dinner table. Rice balls can be had for around ¥200, with filling options ranging from the common salmon and kombu seaweed to salted and fermented fish innards (‘shiokara’)

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and ginger pickled in miso. You can get your onigiri fix until 2am, making this a top destination for a post-drink snack. à 3-9-10 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station).

03 3874 1615. tinyurl.com/TOTyadoroku.

11.30am-5pm, 6pm-2am. Closed for lunch Sun, for dinner Wed.

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ASAKUSA GOLDEN TIGER

Run by Asakusa Jinta – a local rock sextet that combines swing, rockabilly, klezmer, polka and waltz into a wild, mosh-inducing mix – this casual bar on Kokusai-dori stands out among the countless ‘snack’ bars frequented by the neighbourhood’s geezers. Live performances, which range from indie gigs to burlesque shows, take place here every night except for Tuesdays. When stopping by, don’t forget to seek out Sound Bar Pure’s in the back: this technoand dance-focused hideout often hosts underground DJ nights.

Adventurous musos looking to explore the local scene will love a night at Golden Tiger.

à Mansion Nishi-Asakusa B1F, 2-14-13 NishiAsakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 5830 3969. facebook.com/goldentiger.asakusa.

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UUTO CAFE

Opened in 2013, Uuto is a magnet for local audiophiles. It’s run by a composer who needed a place to check the sound quality of his work and, apparently on a whim, decided to establish an entire café for the purpose.

Having switched to a late-night format a year ago, it’s where to sip fine coffee and snack on luxurious desserts while taking in smooth tunes flowing from speakers tuned to pin-drop perfection.

If body fat percentage isn’t high on your list of concerns, go for the cutesy and cat-shaped but decadent gateau chocolat, which can be paired with a glass of fine whisky or some sake from the owner’s extensive collection.

à 4-43-6 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station).

03 5808 9954. uuto-cafe.com. 5pm-4am (last orders 3am), closed Sun & hols.

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July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Nightlife

The best all-you-candrink deals at Tokyo hotels Upgrade your nomihodai – bottomless glass – experience with these luxuriously limitless booze deals. By Mayumi Koyama

Aman: The Black Bar

Following its ‘black afternoon tea’, a chic experience where inky dishes are served on monochrome tableware, the Aman has put together another Instagram-worthy ‘black’ menu. The ‘Black Bar’ deal features a rotating set menu – think crab cake with black tomato, prosciutto with black pepper and marinated black olives – to accompany noir-themed original cocktails. Try the Aman Black Espresso Martini, made with the hotel’s own brands of espresso, coffee liqueur and vodka, and the Black Berry Cooler, which is a blend of three kinds of berries, vodka and coca cola. For an extra ¥3,200 you can upgrade to unlimited champagne. This artistic menu and the chic grey interior give the incredible night views a run for their money. à ¥7,800 (plus service). Otemachi Tower 33F, 1-5-6 Otemachi, Chiyoda (Otemachi Station). 03 5224 3339. tinyurl.com/TOTblackbar. Daily 5.30pm-10pm for two hours.

Four Seasons Hotel at Marunouchi: Champagne Free Flow

Satisfying the hungry as well as the thirsty, the Four Seasons’ deal invites you to fill your belly while washing the food down with top tipples. Choose from champagnes including Pommery Brut Royal or go for some of the bar’s original cocktails while enjoying two dishes – a cold appetiser and a warm main – courtesy of the Motif’s chef, Hiroyuki Asano.

If you’re a connoisseur, upgrade to the ‘First class...’ deal, which includes unlimited amounts of the champagne of the month, a guest bubbly brought in from some of France’s top maisons.

ANA InterContinental: Champagne Social

Every bubble-lover’s dream, the ANA InterContinental’s Champagne Social lets you savour multiple brands multiple times. Chose one of the three ‘levels’: Bronze for two kinds of champagne, Silver for three and Gold for five – all plans let you choose one set of nibbles from a three-strong menu. To top things off, the cocktails included also feature champagne; you have to consume the fine stuff as soon as a bottle is opened, so unfinished bottles of Taittinger, Louis Roederer and so forth are reborn as sprightly mimosas.

à ¥7,000, ¥9,800 for the ‘First class of the month’ (plus tax and service). 7F, Pacific Century Place, 1-11-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda (Tokyo, Kyobashi, Yurakucho stations). 03 5222 5810. tinyurl.com/TOTfreeflow. Two hours; Mon-Fri 5pm-7pm (last admission), Sat, Sun & hols from 3pm-7pm.

à Bronze ¥5,950, Silver ¥6,950, Gold ¥12,800 (plus tax and service). ANA InterContinental Tokyo 3F, 1-12-33 Akasaka, Minato (Tameike-Sanno Station). 03 3505 1185. tinyurl.com/TOTanachampagne. 5pm-10pm for two hours (Sun & hols 4pm-8pm).

Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

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Nightlife

Park Hyatt: Twilight Time

The best-known high-end hotel in Tokyo thanks to Sofia Coppola getting Lost In Translation, the Park Hyatt is still laidback enough to let guests imbibe unlimitedly – and without spending top yen – while enjoying splendid twilight vistas from the 41st floor. Beginning at 5pm, just when the sun is beginning its descent, you can enjoy free-flowing drinks and buffet-style canapés at The Peak Bar, found on the corner of the hotel’s calm and spacious lobby floor. A DJ spins from 6pm onwards. à ¥4,000 (plus tax and service). Park Hyatt Tokyo 41F, 3-7-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku, Tochomae, Hatsudai stations). 03 5323 3461. tinyurl.com/TOTtwilight. Daily 5pm-8pm.

Sheraton Miyako Hotel: Late Afternoon Tea

Prince Park Tower: Twilight Plan

ANA INTERCONTINENTAL, PRINCE PARK TOWER: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. FOUR SEASONS HOTEL: KISA TOYOSHIMA

The perfect spot if you’re doing your drinking alone, the Sheraton’s Late Afternoon Tea has both communal tables for those who feel sociable and cosy nooks for those who don’t.

Food is served on a three-tiered platter packed with finger sandwiches, salads, tarts, cheeses and carpaccio. The drink offers include Kirin and Asahi beer on tap and Duché Chevallier Spanish cava which, when combined with the calming live jazz from the in-house duo and serene views of the hotel’s delightfully illuminated Japanese garden, will soon have you in a state of chilled-out bliss.

The Prince Park Tower stands right next to the iconic Tokyo Tower, and the hotel’s 33rd-floor lounge takes advantage, offering dynamic views of our city’s pretty orange icon. Note that a reservation only gets you through the door and doesn’t guarantee a specific seat, so best be early if you want to nab one of the five pairs of coveted window seats. The bottomless Twilight Plan is only available on weekdays and includes free-flowing Barons de Rothschild Brut and over 40 kinds of the resident mixologist’s cocktails. Don’t miss the signature mojito or the Tokyo Tower, a Prince Park original, the recipe of which is a closely guarded secret.

à ¥4,800 (including tax and service, online reservations (page in Japanese only) required). Sheraton Miyako Hotel Tokyo 1F, 1-1-50 Shirokanedai, Minato (Shirokanedai Station). tinyurl.com/TOTlateteabook. 6pm-8.30pm for two hours.

à ¥7,500 (plus service). The Prince Park Tower Tokyo 33F, 4-8-1 Shiba Koen, Minato (Akabanebashi Station). 03 5400 1154. tinyurl.com/ TOTtwilightplan. Mon-Fri 5pm-7.30pm (last admission) for two hours.

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July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Promotional feature

ROBOT REDUX LOCAL INSIGHT

Why you should visit the Robot Restaurant while in Tokyo.

By Kaila Imada

WHETHER IT BE from visitors,

locals or the flashy robo-trucks constantly criss-crossing the city, it’s highly unlikely you’ve never seen or heard about the Robot Restaurant. This popular hotspot deserves its fame, offering visitors a unique Tokyo experience loaded with bombast.

Located down Sakura-dori in Shinjuku’s neon-lit Kabukicho district, the Robot Restaurant has been wowing guests since 2012 and continues to reinvent itself for both first-time and returning customers.

WHY IT’S WORTH IT

Where else in Tokyo can you enjoy a satisfying bento meal along with tub-thumping drummers, gravity-defying dancers and robots rocking out to Michael Jackson? The 90-minute show is a delightful assault on the senses, sure to lift your spirits and have you wiggling on the edge of your seat while the kawaii troupe trot along in six-inch crystal encrusted heels. The best part?

You never know what’s coming next. Once you think you’ve seen it all, out comes a bigger, better robot that will have you wondering what the designers have been drinking and if you can try a sip.

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE SHOW

Not your typical dinner theatre, the current show kicks off with a vibrant drumming set along with massive neon-lit floats, blinged-out daruma dolls, dancers in manga-inspired wigs and the show’s signature mechanical sushi boat. Act two features a battle of the bots where giant jungle creatures gang up against a team of evil robots from another universe. An unexpected breakout of robot line dancing comes next with nostalgic tunes and choreography apparently inspired by the King of Pop. The show ends with a feast for the eyes as a mix-match of robots in rainbow wigs, retro cars and a metallic horse (or perhaps a unicorn?) parade through the crowd.

THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW

Make sure you arrive early as the show is very strict about start times and if you arrive late there’s a chance you’ll be left listening to the mayhem from behind closed doors until the first intermission.

Bonus: if you arrive early enough, you’ll be treated to a little pre-

game show up at the restaurant’s lounge floor, including live singing, a robot playing the electric guitar, plus a crazy, saketouting drumming crew to get you into the mood for things to come.

ANYTHING GOES

The Robot Restaurant is the best kind of crazy, where rules truly are thrown out the door.

Expect anything and everything from breakdancing bots and a ‘Mad Max’-inspired float fit with a dangling guitarist up front to hyper Amazonian dancers decked out in colourful crystals and feathers. Try not to get lost through the floral maze on your way out, as the mind-blowing show will surely leave you dizzy.

HOW TO BOOK: Robot Restaurant is open for three shows daily,

starting at 5.55pm, 7.50pm and 9.45pm (with an additional show at 4pm and on weekends and holidays), and the format is changed every few months to keep things fresh. You can reserve your spot a couple of days ahead by calling the number below between 9am Bring the and 10pm. The entrance fee is ¥8,000, excluding food discount coupon and drinks. Note that the schedule might change due on page 57 with you to maintenance. to Robot Restaurant Shinjuku Robot Bldg, 1-7-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku and get ¥1,000 off (Shinjuku Station). 03 3200 5500. your bill. www.shinjuku-robot.com. 4pm-11pm daily.

Film Cinema under the stars

Where to watch movies under the open sky this summer. By Mari Hiratsuka ON A BALMY SUMMER EVENING , nothing beats catching a film under the stars. Take your pick of urban

screenings in Tokyo, or head out into the countryside for outdoor cinema festivals held at mountain camp sites or ski resorts. These parties are usually all-night affairs, complete with DJ sets, food markets and fun for young movie buffs in the making. Here are our top picks of al fresco film events going on in August and September. and Japanese.

‘Harmonium’, which won the Jury Prize in the Un Certain Regard section at Cannes 2016, and coming-of-age comedy ‘14 That Night’.

©STARDUST THEATER ORGANISING COMMITTEE

à Jul 28-Aug 20 (no screenings on Aug 4 & 5).

Yatsugatake Natural & Culture Park, 17217-1613 Haramura, Suwa, Nagano. www.hoshizoraeiga.com. ¥1,000 adv, ¥1,300 on the day (high school students ¥1,000, junior high students and younger ¥500).

à Aug 4-6. Motosuko Camping Ground, 18 Motosu, Fuji-Kawaguchiko, Minamitsuru, Yamanashi. kohan-filmfest.info. ¥3,500 adv, ¥4,000 on the day (under-18s ¥2,000 on the day).

STARDUST THEATER IN HARAMURA

An annual summer highlight for Kanto area folks fond of watching movies in the great outdoors, Stardust Theater returns to Nagano’s picturesque Yatsugatake Natural & Culture Park for its 32nd edition. Head out into the mountains for roughly a month’s worth of cinematic action, beautifully projected onto a massive screen, and enjoy an offbeat film experience under the starry sky far away from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo. Just don’t forget your warm jacket, as the 1,300m altitude ensures that it gets rather chilly at night. The programme, which hasn’t been released yet, is usually a nice combo of old and new, Western

KOHAN FILM FESTIVAL

Japanese indie filmmakers join forces with locals at Yamanashi’s Lake Motosu for this film and music extravaganza taking place over the first weekend of August.

During the day, you can catch gigs and DJ performances all around the gorgeous campsite venue, while the movie screenings start after sunset and go on all night.

The lineup consists mostly of cutting-edge Japanese cinema (not subtitled, unfortunately), such as Koji Fukada’s

YEBISU GARDEN PLACE PICNIC CINEMA

Catch a movie on a hot summer evening at Ebisu’s Garden Place, where screenings start from 7.30pm for 12 days from August 3.

The free films will be shown on a big screen set up in the middle of the complex, with the programme including life-affirming fare such as Irish musical comedy ‘Sing Street’, Giuseppe Tornatore’s

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Oscar-winning ‘Cinema Paradiso’, and 2014 documentary ‘Iris’, which tells the story of 95-year-old New York fashion icon Iris Apfel. à Aug 3-19. Yebisu Garden Place, 4-20 Ebisu, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). tinyurl.com/ TOTpicniccinema. Free.

MUJINTO CINEMA CAMP 2017

Mujinto Cinema Camp may well be the most exclusive open-air movie event out there. Taking place at a private camp site in rural Shizuoka, which can only be reached by boat, this is where to watch films in the great outdoors without having to worry about light pollution, noise or skinflints – last year’s tickets started at a cool ¥20,000.

Participants can also explore the surrounds on kayak trips, help decorate the venue, catch gigs, make their own candles and take part in various outdoorsy activities over the second weekend of September. Both the cinematic and musical programmes will be released in July, so keep your eyes peeled. à Sep 9 & 10. Aqua Village, Tago, Nishi-Izu, Kamo, Shizuoka. www.mujintocinemacamp.com.

Prices TBC. July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

TOHOKU UPDATE

A change of art Nick Narigon explores how a new arts festival is aiming to become a symbol of recovery from the triple disasters of 2011

IT WAS THE LONGEST four days of

Tatsuo Miyajima’s life. The vice president of Tohoku University of Art and Design was in the Kanto area when the March 11, 2011 earthquake and tsunami hit. It took four long days for him to return to the Yamagata campus in northern Japan and confirm that his students were safe. Miyajima, one of Japan’s most renowned contemporary artists, was soon getting his hands dirty – raking mud out of tsunami-stricken homes in nearby Ishinomaki.

Once the immediate tasks were complete, the 60-year-old turned his mind to how he could use his talents to help the area rebuild.

‘I had always wanted to contribute to Tohoku in some way as an artist,’ says Miyajima. ‘I started thinking about creating an artwork to both embolden and repose people.’

He wasn’t alone – and the Reborn Art Festival is the result.

Over the course of 51 days, from this July 22 to September 10, approximately 200,000 people are expected to descend upon the Oshika Peninsula, the closest landmark to the earthquake’s epicentre, for the Reborn Art Festival. The festival blends the works of world-class artists, including Miyajima, with masterclasses from Japan’s top chefs and local artisans, all soundtracked by performances from some of the country’s best live bands.

‘We thought we could support Tohoku through the power of art and music’

Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

‘This is a festival with many elements,’ says spokesperson Emiko Suzuki. ‘We want to cheer up the people who live here, but also have an economic effect.’

‘The damage was serious, but we thought we could support the revival of the area through the power of art and music,’ continues Suzuki. ‘The local people told us directly that they want people to come and visit.’

Reborn Art Festival draws on the

theories of Shinichi Nakazawa, a director at Meiji University, who was the first to suggest that an art festival would have a long-lasting impact on Tohoku. Nakazawa says the goal of the festival is to affect all aspects of life for Tohoku residents, including technology, economy and ecology.

‘Tohoku should not rebuild [in the sense of returning to the original], but must advance to create something new,’ says

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Nakazawa. ‘Reborn [Art Festival] aims to help Tohoku open up potential possibilities and move forward.’

But the festival would not have happened if it hadn’t been for music producer and social activist Takeshi Kobayashi. Known for his work with Japanese pop-rock icons Mr. Children, in 2003 Kobayashi, along with others, provided the seed money for AP Bank, a money-lending mechanism for organisations dedicated to environmental causes.

AP Bank was already conducting charity work in Ishinomaki, where the elevation was lowered 1.2 metres by the tsunami, so putting Nakazawa’s ideas into practice there was a natural choice. To complete the circle, Kobayashi’s Bank Band, fronted by Mr. Children singer Kazutoshi Sakurai, will headline Reborn.

The event will be a sprawling affair with the Oshika Peninsula serving as the main site, while other events will be held in Ishinomaki City and surrounding towns, including the fishing village of Onagawa, which lost 70 percent of its buildings under 15m waves in 2011.

Miyajima aims to reflect the region’s complicated relationship with the tide in his art installation, titled ‘Sea of Time’. The project, made with the assistance from Tohoku artists who were affected by the disaster, entails a series of LED lights installed at the bottom of a pool displaying a continual countdown from 9 to 1.

‘The people of Tohoku had always lived together with the sea. And even when the sea took everything from them, they did not hold resentment towards it,’ says Miyajima. ‘We are helping them to create the future.’

à The Reborn Art Festival takes place Jul 22-Sep 10 in Ishinomaki City and surroundings. tinyurl.com/ TOTreborn.

Sport PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Making a splash How to get wet and wild in Tokyo this summer. By Ili Saarinen WHEN THE SUFFOCATING

summer heat hits Tokyo, staying indoors and turning up the air conditioning to eleven is one option. Another – more environmentally friendly and less socially stigmatic – one is taking off your clothes and engaging in watery merriment within day trip distance from the big city. So grab that tube of sunscreen and escape the concrete jungle for some certifiably refreshing aquatic activities.

SUP

Originally from Hawaii, standup paddle boarding or SUP has become quite the trend in Japan.

While simply riding and paddling is challenging enough for most beginners, some preternaturally talented practitioners even engage in ‘SUP yoga’ these days.

Anyway, you need to know how to stand up before pulling off a reverse warrior pose, and that’s where the good folks at ZAC come in. Based out east in the peaceful, suburban surrounds of Higashi-Ojima, they offer beginner-to-intermediate classes on the calm Kyu-Naka River. If you’re a complete newbie, opt for the ‘Tokyo SUP Experience’, a one-hour class that’ll see you practice all the basic manoeuvres.

The standing part in particular

barbecue. Make sure to bring a swimsuit (to wear underneath the wetsuit) and a towel for the shower afterwards. à From ¥5,800 (prices vary seasonally). www. fw-raft.com/okutama.

SCUBA DIVING

ordered. These cheery, Englishspeaking locals will pick you up at Ome Station and drive you to their forest hideout 15 minutes up the Tama river. This is where things get real: you’ll be asked to change into a wetsuit, pull on a life vest and helmet and jump back in the car for transport to the deceptively calm starting point. Once on board, you’ll be taught how to paddle and balance yourself, and then it’s off to the rapids. In addition to rafting, you’ll get to jump from cliffs, swim and splash in the crystal-clear river. It doesn’t get much more refreshing than this on a hot day, and tours take place even when it rains – you’re going to get wet anyway, so why worry? Tours range from a 1.5hour deal to all-day experiences that can be combined with

is more strenuous than it looks – we were stiff as, well, a board the day after – and the jellyfish in the water practically rule falling out as an option, but the instructors are friendly and speak enough English to make you feel comfortable. All classes, including the tours to the Skytree that are available for more confident boarders, require you to wear shorts or tights. à Tokyo SUP Experience ¥4,500. zacsports.com/ suptop.htm.

RAFTING

If getting utterly soaked while paddling a wobbly boat through the rapids of a majestic mountain landscape sounds like your idea of an enjoyable summer day, then a rafting tour with Forest & Water will be just what the doctor

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You can go deep-water diving in Tokyo, albeit only on a technicality: the Nangoku scuba school is based on Kozushima, part of the Izu island chain that’s over 100km away from but administratively part of the capital. Certified instructor Yusuke Suzuki offers all-inclusive, three-hour introductions to diving, no licence required.

You can take a jet ferry (2 hours 40 minutes from Takeshiba terminal) or fly (55 minutes from Chofu Airport) to Kozushima. à Intro to diving ¥12,960. kozu-nangoku.com/ kozu-english.html.

SURFING

Although the Shonan coast down in Kanagawa is the capital region’s most famous surfing spot, Chiba’s beaches often boast better waves. Several Tokyo-based companies offer one-day tours to the Pacific coast for beginners; we like Nikkori Surf, who’ll teach you the basics for ¥10,000 (rentals and transportation included).

Tours depart from Mizue Station in Edogawa at 8am and return to Tokyo early in the evening. à Basic class ¥10,000. nikkorisurf.com.

July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Sport

PHOTOS: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

No contest Ili Saarinen meets a master of aikido, the most spiritual of Japan’s martial arts IT’S JUST AFTER 6AM and I share a sun-bathed room with 100 men and women who could slam me face first into the tatami matcovered floor without breaking a sweat. But luckily enough, that’s the last thing on their minds: this fearsome bunch, clad in loose white uniforms and black or dark blue hakama trousers, has assembled at the Aikido Honbu Dojo complex in Wakamatsucho for asageiko (morning practice). Their pursuit is aikido, a Japanese martial art founded by Morihei Ueshiba in the 1930s, loosely translated as ‘the way of the harmonious spirit’, and headquartered in this quiet Shinjuku neighbourhood.

This morning’s group is even more international than usually, with enthusiasts from around the world having flown in for the annual All-Japan aikido demonstration that’s coming up in a few days. The founder’s great grandson, Mitsuteru Ueshiba, heads the session, performing the various waza (techniques) effortlessly with an opponent before calling for his disciples to repeat the move with their sparring partner, over and over and over. His students, some in their late teens, others well Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

Mitsuteru Ueshiba

that ‘the true spirit of martial arts lies not in the testing of one’s strength against others, but in pursuing spiritual growth… It’s all about improving yourself – not impressing others.’

While aikido’s lack of a competitive element may keep it out of the Olympics, it still makes for a spectacular spectator experience. Take the annual ‘enbukai’ demonstration, a grand event held at the Nippon Budokan, an arena considered the spiritual centre of Japanese martial arts. During this all-day jamboree, performances range

beyond retirement age, take turns throwing, twisting, pushing and falling over – all with admirable control and care for their partner’s safety. This process of ‘mental improvement and cultivation of inner strength’, says the 36-year-old Ueshiba, is at the core of aikido.

Now boasting around a million practitioners worldwide, aikido differs from other martial arts in one crucial way: it has no matches, meaning that there are never any winners or losers.

This, says Ueshiba, is because his great grandfather believed

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from the cautious and detailoriented movement of casual aikido-ka representing their school, company or local dojo, to the spectacularly sharp and dynamic throws and suppression techniques of top-level sensei, including Ueshiba and his father, doshu (grand master) Moriteru Ueshiba.

With the 14,000-seat Budokan all but packed for the demonstration every year and the number of practitioners steadily growing around the world, it’s hardly surprising that Mitsuteru Ueshiba is happy about the state of his great grandfather’s legacy.

But that, he says, is no reason for complacency: ‘Of course, my primary task is to uphold the heritage [of aikido] and pass it on to coming generations. I never stop thinking about what can be done to ensure that the future remains bright.’

à Want to try aikido for yourself?

Mitsuteru Ueshiba recommends contacting your local dojo directly – you can search for a training centre at aikikai.or.jp/search/index.html.

The All-Japan Aikido Demonstration takes place in late May every year.

LGBT Print charming

SHINJUKU NI-CHOME, Tokyo’s gay district,

is famed for its high concentration of bars, clubs and eateries catering to the entire LGBT community. But the neighbourhood is also home to a few more unlikely operations, including the Okamalt book café – Tokyo’s only shop dedicated to LGBT-lit. Run by Japanese gay culture pioneer To Ogura, a writer and magazine editor who is known as Margarette in drag queen circles, it’s quickly become the talk of the town. An avid reader of ‘Adonis’, Japan’s oldest gay magazine that

‘Many gay people first start dealing with their sexuality through books, so the emotional element is very strong’ Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

once counted literary titan Yukio Mishima among its contributors, Ogura sat down with us to talk about his extensive archive of gay publications.

‘There are 500-600 titles at the shop, but I have a collection of over 10,000 back at my warehouse,’ says Ogura. ‘That number might surprise you, but gay literature is such a broad concept.’ We can only agree after spotting titles by everyone from computer scientist Alan Turing to Wittgenstein.

Ogura has been an avid bookworm since childhood – ‘I read Yukio Mishima books as a kid, despite not having any idea what he was talking about,’ he says – and always had wide-ranging interests, but he only turned to collecting writing on gay culture after the death of his colleague Ben Kimura.

After years of contributing to gay magazines, popular illustrator Kimura passed away in 2003. His relatives were about to bin the late artist’s entire magazine trove, before Ogura stepped in and rescued these treasures from the trash. ‘I realised that the collection of even someone as influential as Ben could be discarded just like that,’ he says. ‘[My archive] started with the salvaging of condemned books, and grew from that.’ Ogura describes

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his work as ‘safe-keeping’: ‘I’ll die sooner or later too, so I don’t think of my collection in terms of ownership.’

One anecdote aptly describes Okamalt’s mission of building a community in which the past and the future are connected through the medium of books. ‘One day, a customer came to me looking for the first gay-themed book he had ever read,’ recounts Ogura. Although this customer knew neither the title nor the author’s name, Ogura was able to pick out the right one based on the vaguest of descriptions, and thus earned himself a new regular.

‘Many gay people first start dealing with their sexuality through books, so the emotional element is very strong,’ he says.

Although leaving a legacy with the archive is one of its owner’s most important aims for Okamalt, the store also functions as a place for digging up old memories and re-confirming one’s identity. Ogura hopes it can be a safe place for anyone who’s ever relied on a book to get them through a tough patch in life. ‘That’s the power of books for you right there,’ he smiles. à Shin-Chidorigai 2F, 2-18-10 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (ShinjukuSanchome Station). 03 6380 0280. facebook.com/cafeokamalt.

1pm-8pm, closed Thu-Sat.

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

One Tokyo bookstore is keeping the flame of Japanese gay print culture alive. By Kosuke Shimizu

Lost in Harajuku?

Head straight for Moshi Moshi Box

AS THE SHOPPING DISTRICT that symbolises Japanese pop culture,

Harajuku is a must-visit for any tourist. But anyone who’s jumped into the shopping fray will tell you it can be a little intimidating. Which is why you’ll be pleased to hear about Moshi Moshi Box, the tourist information centre that’s right in the heart of the area.

To find it, walk five minutes from the station and look out for the centre’s symbol – a big, colourful world clock designed by Harajuku kawaii impresario Sebastian Masuda. The centre provides sightseeing information for the Shibuya area, including Harajuku. It also provides essential information and services such as courier assistance, a foreign currency exchange machine, and free wi-fi.

But that’s not all: aiming to serve as an entertainment centre in itself, it’s a place where overseas visitors can experience J-pop culture through activities such as trying on kimono. There’s also a souvenir shop where you can pick up Mt Fuji artwork and quirky items such as sushi socks and accessories with popular Harajuku motifs.

à3-23-5 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku and Meiji-Jingumae stations). 03 6447 2225. moshimoshi-nippon.jp. Daily 10am-6pm.

Get our maps and mag in Shibuya Stop by the Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre

You can now get your copy of Time Out Tokyo magazine delivered – we ship internationally too!

Please visit time-outtokyo.myshopify. com.

Pick up our maps and magazine at one of these venues: Stations: Select Toei Subway stations Tourist information centres: Tokyo Metropolitan Government Headquarters Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre Tokyo City Air Terminal Ginza Mitsukoshi Tourist Information Desk and more tourist information centres Airports: Haneda Airport (International Terminal) Narita International Airport Shops: Tsutaya Tokyo Roppongi Books Kinokuniya Shinjuku Main Store Books Kinokuniya Tokyo Tower Records Shibuya and more shops

SHIBUYA INFORMATION CENTER: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Restaurants: Time Out Cafe & Diner Hard Rock Café Tokyo (Roppongi) All Hub pubs in Tokyo and more restaurants

TIME OUT READERS will know about our popular series of free maps: pocket-sized guides to the multifarious delights this city has to offer. They’re hard to miss these days – as well as our ever-popular ‘101 things to do in Shibuya’ edition and the comprehensive ‘88 things to do in Tokyo’, we’ve come out with maps for nearly all the top areas including Roppongi, Shinjuku, Nihonbashi, Marunouchi, Koenji and Ginza.

All of these publications, along with issues of our magazine, are available to pick up at Shibuya Station’s tourist information centre, conveniently located in the underground passage on the second basement floor of Shibuya Station. The Englishspeaking guides will help you stock up, provide sightseeing tips, and assist you in navigating the bowels of the cavernous station itself.

Each edition squeezes the best of the capital into a compact pamphlet, complete with a city map, and we’ve included everything from offbeat art galleries and otaku meccas to ancient shrines and hipster hangouts.

We’ve also recently expanded the series to include places beyond Tokyo, launching special maps for those of you heading to Shimane or the temples of Nikko – both make for a great mini getaway.

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Hotels that have Les Clefs d’Or Japan member concierge: ANA InterContinental Tokyo The Peninsula Tokyo Palace Hotel Tokyo Park Hyatt Tokyo Mandarin Oriental,Tokyo Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel Grand Hyatt Tokyo Conrad Tokyo Hotel Okura Tokyo The Prince Park Tower Tokyo and more hotels Note: If you can’t find the map you’re looking for, this probably means we’ve temporarily run out of stock. Please be patient while we work on the next print run.

Please direct any advertising queries to sales@timeout.jp.

July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Travel & Hotels

Your secret guide to Kyoto

THERE’S NO ESCAPING the fact that Kyoto is Japan’s most touristy city, with the ancient capital’s dizzying selection of temples and treasures attracting travellers throughout the year. It’s also notoriously hard to navigate, so first-time visitors often stick to the beaten path and miss out on seeing something a little different. That’s where we can help: here’s our guide to the city’s quirkier side.

L'ESCAMOTEUR BAR Even seasoned barflies may do a double take upon opening the door to this wonderfully eclectic second-floor watering hole, set in the very retro Kawaramachi neighbourhood. An ex-magician, French owner Christophe modelled the interior on an early 20th-century herbal pharmacy. He’s also planted all sorts of funky contrivances around the space, so keep your wits about you when visiting. In addition to an eightseat counter and a standing room, the bar has a swing by the window – best pace yourself with the drinks if you’re seated here. The magically punchy cocktails cost ¥1,200 or ¥1,500 and no cover charge is applied. à2F, 138-9 Saitocho, Saiseki-dori Shijo-sagaru, Shimogyo, Kyoto. 075 708 8511. 8pm-2am, closed Mon.

KYOTO BREWING Run by a trio of expats from the US, Canada and Wales, this microbrewery has been the talk of its traditional neighbourhood since opening in April 2015 and its fame is spreading – Kyoto Brewing beers can now be found in hip Tokyo restaurants and beer bars. Aiming to craft brews that clearly deviate from current domestic trends while drawing on time-honoured, mainly American and Belgian, methods, the founders chose Kyoto as a base because of the city’s rich culinary culture and penchant for fusing the traditional with the cutting-edge. Make sure to go on a weekend, when the taproom – complete with a bare-bones terrace – is opened to the public. The presence of the occasional tourist deep in this residential neighbourhood, a ten-minute taxi ride from Kyoto Station, is also explained by the brewery’s efficient branding: in turns up at the very top of a Google search page for ‘Kyoto brewery’.

The wonders of online marketing… à25-1 Nishikyujo-Takahatacho, Minami, Kyoto. 075 574 7820. kyotobrewing.com. Sat, Sun only 12noon-6pm.

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PHOTOGRAPHY: HIROYUKI SUMI

Step away from the tourist trail and discover a whole new side of Japan’s cultural capital with Yukako Izumi

KINSE RYOKAN This 250-year-old building – which was originally constructed as an upscale brothel and later turned into a ryokan (traditional inn) – now houses this retro café and bar. With the interior having been renovated in the late 1920s, everything about Kinse brings to mind the Western-style buildings of Japan’s Taisho era (1912-1926) – including the atmosphere and music. If you’re looking for truly unusual accommodation, try booking the second-floor room, which is still rented out to one group per night. à79 Nishi-Shinyashiki Tayucho, Shimogyo, Kyoto.

075 351 4781. www.kinse-kyoto.com. 3pm-10pm, closed Tue.

VERMILLION CAFE Few tourists visit Kyoto without stopping by Fushimi Inari Taisha, the impressive shrine famed for its countless red torii gates and multifarious fox statues. After climbing all the way up through the torii tunnel and trying to snap a selfie that says ‘serene quiet time’ rather than ‘squeezed in among the hordes’, head for the more tranquil streets behind the shrine complex. Here you’ll find this homely café, which hides out near the shrine pond and boasts terrace seats pointed directly towards the calm water.

Both the coffee beans and baked treats served here are ‘made in Kyoto’: the former come roasted by local favourite Weekenders Coffee. Don’t tell everyone – Vermillion is the kind of place you’ll want to keep a secret. à5-31 Fukakusa-Kaidoguchicho, Fushimi, Kyoto. www.vermillioncafe.com.

10am-5.30pm (Sat, Sun & hols from 9am).

MURAKAMI KAISHINDO One of the city’s best sweet spots, Murakami Kaishindo was founded in 1907. This venerable dessert specialist was late to the café game though, only opening its own in March this year. You’ll find it in the back of the shop – take off your shoes and aim for one of the seats facing the garden. In addition to Murakami’s famed cookies, the menu includes cakes, coffee and black tea. When you’re all sugared up, explore the surrounding, once very quiet Teramachi-dori area, which is currently emerging as one of Kyoto’s most exciting neighbourhoods due to a slew of new, hip openings. àTeramachi-dori Nijo-agaru Higashigawa, Nakagyo, Kyoto. 075 231 1058. www. murakami-kaishindo.jp. 10am-5pm, closed Sun & hols, 3rd Mon of the month.

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July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Travel & Hotels

The best new hotels and hostels in Tokyo Make the most of your budget trip at these hot hostels and affordable hotels. By Mari Hiratsuka

SHIBAMATA FU-TEN BED AND LOCAL If you don’t mind staying at the very eastern edge of Tokyo and are looking for a real shitamachi (traditional downtown) experience, then this is the hostel for you.

Fu-Ten is set in picturesque Shibamata, famed for its majestic Taishakuten temple, and occupies an old apartment building. Fully renovated, it now houses both Japanese-style tatami rooms and modern lodgings – some of the Western-style rooms also have their own showers.

Rates start at an affordable ¥3,000 per head for a spot in a two-person room.

AS TOKYO GEARS UP for the 2020 Olympics, the need for more rooms has seen a host of buildings being converted into an exciting new breed of boarding houses. We’ve rounded up the hottest hostels and budget hotels opened over the past six months – from a relaxed riverside hideout to a spot where you can pretend you’re on a sleeper train.

LYURO TOKYO KIYOSUMI THE SHARE HOTELS Set along the banks of the Sumida River in a renovated office building, this somewhat clunkily named newcomer is a welcome alternative to the area’s clutch of overpriced hipster hostels. The nautically themed décor – think water-inspired graphics on the wallpaper and room signs – create an illusion of strolling around on a very big ship that has washed up on the river bank. The sleeping quarters are a mix of privates and dorms, with all 18 of the former facing the river, which means they boast great views – particularly from the en-suite bathrooms. And to make your bath time even more enjoyable, they’ve installed speakers and portable TVs – all waterproof, we’re happy to report – next to the tubs. Even if you’re not staying the night, it’s worth making the trek over to Kiyosumi for Lyuro’s river terrace, which is open to the public and houses barbecue restaurant Pitmans and the neighbourhood’s first microbrewery. à1-1-7 Kiyosumi, Koto (Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station). tinyurl.com/TOTlyuro.

Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

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LYURO: KISA TOYOSHIMA. WIRED HOTEL, TRUNK HOTEL: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. HOKUTOSEI: MARI HIRATSUKA

à7-12-19 Shibamata, Katsushika (Shibamata Station). tinyurl.com/TOTfu-ten.

Travel & Hotels TRUNK HOTEL Opened in between Shibuya and Harajuku in May, the boutique-style Trunk Hotel is run by a local wedding planning giant and aims to really let guests experience the best of the surrounding area during their stay.

The hotel lounge hosts parties every Friday night, while other community-oriented happenings are planned for the coming months. As for the art-filled rooms, you get to choose from seven types, including singles (from ¥27,000), a ‘junior suite’ (¥92,000) with beds for six, and a ‘terrace suite’ that can be had for a cool ¥570,000 per night. The terrace suite is equipped with a spacious balcony, a gadget-packed kitchen and even an outdoor bath. All rooms are stocked with made-in-Japan, environmentally friendly bathroom amenities, which can also be bought at the shop on the ground floor. à5-31 Jingumae, Shibuya (Shibuya, Harajuku stations). tinyurl.com/TOTtrunk.

TRAIN HOSTEL HOKUTOSEI This unique hostel, which opened in December last year and is accessible directly from JR Bakurocho Station, is a must for railway lovers. Named after the Hokutosei sleeper train, which operated between Tokyo and Sapporo for 27 years before being retired in 2015, it boasts an interior that faithfully recreates the train’s cabins – all bunk beds, aluminium ladders and dark curtains – made entirely with materials from the Hokutosei carriages. In addition to the usual dorms, they offer semi-private rooms roughly the size of a regular sleeper train cabin. Prices start from ¥2,500 – a bargain compared to the moving Hokutosei’s minimum rate of ¥6,300. OK, you’ll still wake up in Tokyo after a night here, but at least the ride is unlikely to be as bumpy. à1-10-12 Nihonbashi-Bakurocho, Chuo (Bakurocho Station). tinyurl.com/TOThokutosei.

WIRED HOTEL ASAKUSA Conjured up by the folks behind Tokyo’s ubiquitous Wired Café chain together with Portland-based creative agency OMFGCO, known for their Ace Hotels in London and across the US, this stylish hotel opened just off Asakusa’s Hisagodori in April. On the ground floor you’ll find Zakbaran, a café-bar that non-guests are welcome to use too. Sweets and snacks made from soy milk and tofu stud the menu, alongside a strictly curated sake lineup. Rooms range from dormitories, bright singles and doubles to a luxurious penthouse, and cater to a range of travellers. At ¥10,000 a night, the regular singles probably offer the best value: their bathrooms resemble those found in your average business hotel, but the rest of the décor is just as sleek as in Wired’s fancier rooms – some of which bring to mind an expensive New York City flat. à2-16-2 Asakusa, Taito (Tawaramachi Station). tinyurl.com/TOTwired.

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July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Get your wheels

Getting Around

Where to rent the best bikes in Tokyo.

By Kirsty Bouwers SURE, TOKYO PUBLIC transport is

very convenient, but nothing beats having your own two wheels and the flexibility to explore the city at your own pace and without the constraints of the train timetable.

Get in on the whole mamachari (mom’s bicycle) lifestyle, so to speak. Whether you’re looking to rent a bicycle for a few hours, days or a month, we’ve got you covered.

COMMUNITYCYCLE

This is essentially Tokyo’s lesser-known and electrified answer to Paris’s Velibs and London’s Boris Bikes: the Docomo-sponsored e-bikes (yes, they have a little motor to help you out when climbing hills or when you’re just plain lazy) are scattered throughout the city and only require a code to unlock.

Register online, choose between 30-minute, daily or monthly hires, hop on and then return it at one of the docking stations located in well over 200 spots across town. àDocking stations around Bunkyo, Chiyoda, Chuo, Koto, Minato and Shinjuku wards. Prices and payment options differ per plan and rental time.

Check docomo-cycle.jp/chiyoda/en for details.

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

COGICOGI

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Another e-bike sharing plan, this new kid on the block mainly operates in and around the Shibuya area, but is expanding with docking ports in convenient places across the city, including near centrally located hotels. Currently, they offer 12, 24 and 48-hour ‘all-youcan-ride’ plans: use their bikes for as long and as many times as you like within that time period for a set price. Payments and reservations are made through their app, which is currently only in Japanese – although an English one was in the works at the time of writing. Turn on bluetooth once you’re near one of the ports, open the app and you’ll be able to unlock a bike. High-tech meets pedal power. àDocking ports around Shibuya, and a few in Chiyoda, Sumida and Taito wards. ¥2,100/12h, ¥2,400/24h, ¥3,600/48h (plus tax). cogicogi.jp.

MUJIRUSHI RYOHIN

To explore the Marunouchi district or otaku mecca Akihabara – both a short ride away from the Imperial Palace – rent a bicycle from Muji’s Yurakucho store. As you’d expect from Muji, they’re sturdy, well-designed bikes; not your average mamachari. à3-8-3 Marunouchi, Chiyoda. 10am-8pm (bike pickup until 6pm). ¥1,000/day (a deposit of ¥3,000 is required so bring enough cash).

Reservations 03 5208 8241 or in person. tinyurl. com/totmujiyurakucho.

TAITO-KU RENT A BICYCLE

The cheapest option we’ve found in Tokyo and popular with backpackers staying in the area, this ward-sponsored rental programme only charges you ¥200 for four hours of pedalling or ¥300 for a full day.

The only downside is that you’re technically not supposed to stray (too far) from the Taito area with your mamachari wheels, and if your hostel or apartment doesn’t have secure bike parking, they may refuse to rent a bicycle to you for more than a day. Bring a passport or ID, as they’ll require a photocopy of this. àFour pick-up locations inside Taito ward, including next to Azumabashi Bridge. Note that all of them are below ground – find their addresses (in Japanese) at tinyurl.com/taitobikerental.

6am-8pm (returns until 8.30pm). ¥200/4h, ¥300/day, ¥600/3 days, ¥1,200/7 days.

TOKYOBIKE RENTALS YANAKA

Your rental bike has never looked as cool: TokyoBike offers some seriously hipsterfabulous rides a short cycle away from Ueno. That minimalist coolness comes at a price, however, with their one-day rentals starting at a somewhat steep ¥2,500. Book ahead through their website and remember to bring some form of ID with you on the day. à4-2-39 Yanaka, Taito. 10am-6.30pm, closed Wed. One-day rental ¥2,500, each additional day ¥1,500. Reservation required through their website: tinyurl.com/tottokyobikerental.

Getting Around

Going Goingunderground? underground?

Welcome to the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most efficient transport system

Welcome to the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most efficient transport system

Getting Around 71 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo www.timeout.com/tokyo 77

Getting Around

TOKYO’S BEST

Ghost-spotting spots There’s something strange in these neighbourhoods…

By Kirsty Bouwers IN JAPAN , as soon as the temperatures soar and firework festivals start lighting up the night sky, thoughts turn to the yurei (spirits or spectres), while peak supernatural time is reached in August, when the Buddhist Obon festival for the dead takes place. Here are the settings for the city’s most famous ghost stories…

1.

OIWA SHRINE: YOTSUYA KAIDAN

Arguably Japan’s most celebrated spook story, ‘Yotsuya Kaidan’ is loosely based on two historical characters. It sees a woman, Oiwa Iemon, gradually poisoned by her husband Tamiya, who is having an affair. After her death, she comes back to haunt him by impersonating his newly betrothed, upon which he kills the new wifey by accident. Oops.

Although Oiwa’s grave is actually at a temple in Sugamo, the story is more commonly associated with Oiwa Inari Tamiya Shrine in Yotsuya, said to have been built to appease her tormented soul. To this day, film crews and theatre troupes staging adaptations of the story head to Oiwa’s grave before shooting to ‘ask for permission’ – so she doesn’t come back to haunt them.

2.

KII NO KUNI-ZAKA: THE ‘MUJINA’ OF AKASAKA ROAD

A 15-minute walk from Oiwa Shrine, Kii no Kuni-zaka is the hill running past Akasaka Palace towards Akasaka Station. In the legend of ‘Mujina’, a man walking down the slope encounters an upper-class girl who is crying on the banks of the moat with her face in her hands.

He tries to console her while she keeps weeping, hiding her face. Eventually, she faces him and lowers her kimono sleeves – and it turns out she lacks all facial features.

The man is terrified and sprints away. Spotting light at the top of the hill, he runs towards a lonely noodle seller, in front of whom he drops to the floor and starts stammering about what he just saw. Rather unsympathetically, the seller replies ‘Was it something like this?’ and waves a hand across his face, after which all of his features disappear...

3.

OTEMACHI: TAIRA NO MASAKADO

Wander around the high-rise buildings of Otemachi long enough and you will spot a small stone shrine. This is the grave of decapitated 10th-century samurai Taira no Masakado.

After his unfortunate demise in Kyoto, the fable

Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

goes that his bodiless head flew to Tokyo and eventually settled in Otemachi.

Removing or relocating Masakado’s grave has proved difficult, as any attempts to do so have supposedly been plagued by misfortune. When the nearby Ministry of Finance tried to level the hill after the 1923 Great Kanto earthquake, 14 workers related to the project dropped dead in a series of bizarre incidents.

The 1,000-year curse holds to this day, with multiple tales of people falling ill or dying after the shrine had been tampered with in any way.

It’s even said that desks inside the buildings clustered around the shrine are placed so as to not make anyone sit with their back to old Masakado – lest he take offence.

4.

SUNSHINE 60: WAR CRIMINAL EXECUTION SITE

Some bright spark decided it would be a good idea to put up one of the then tallest buildings in Japan on the spot of the old Sugamo prison.

At least seven war criminals were executed here after World War II, while many other unsavoury characters were stuck between its walls.

Consequently, believers say, the construction of Sunshine 60 had its share of accidents and apparently apparitions still haunt the place – residents have reported seeing fireballs floating around on occasion.

5.

ROPPONGI HILLS: GRAVES OF THE 47 RONIN

Apparently learning nothing from Sunshine 60, bright spark number two chose to build a massive shopping complex on top of what is apparently the gravesite of some of the legendary 47 ronin (masterless samurai). To be fair, the history of the ronin is so vague that no one seems to be sure about when and where they actually died, but some people believe that Roppongi Hills and its businesses have been cursed since the 2002 opening, with multiple tales of grisly fatal accidents, business scandals and residents suffering spectacular social falls from grace. Don’t mess with the ronin.

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Getting Around

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July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Your local arcade lets you flip a dinner table into the air

You know you’re in Tokyo when…

By Benjamin Boas and Marcus Webb AS UNIQUELY JAPANESE as owl cafés, capsule hotels and

naked festivals, video arcades – or ‘game centres’ – are an essential experience in Tokyo. Just come prepared for a full-contact affair.

THE SUMO

Arcade games allow us all to live our fantasy life for a few short minutes, and for some that means being a yokozuna (sumo grand master). Enter The Sumo and its short but sturdy plastic foe who you must push out of the ring.

Best do the groundwork ahead of time and bulk up massively – six months on 10,000 calories a day, including endless bowlfuls of chanko nabe (the high-protein sumo stew) should do the job.

If you fail to prepare properly you might get lucky in the early rounds – the fake wrestler is easily pushed backwards on its tracks – but you’ll never become a grand champion.

‘UFO CATCHER’ CRANE GAMES

Now far be it for us to cast aspersions on arcade owners in faraway lands, but there are rumours that crane games in the West are, well, rigged. We’ve had reports that the claw is programmed to only complete a full grab up to one in 50 times and even then is ordered to release its bounty just before the official dropzone.

Not so here in Tokyo. It’s all skill, all the way. For some that means a huge collection of stuffed animals, giant chocolate bars and anime tat – the rest of us just lost our excuse for another of life’s failures.

TAIKO NO TATSUJIN

CHABUDAI GAESHI

Think banging a giant taiko drum is purely the preserve of the muscled and the rhythmically gifted? Think again. Taiko no Tatsujin lets you beat away to your heart’s content. A screen screams at you to hit, roll and pound in time with the music and often flashes a demoralising percentage at the end of the tune – how is it possible to have minus rhythm?

If films from the fifties are to be believed, the only way a frustrated Japanese office worker could release their anger was by upending the household dinner table, expressing their rage by propelling bits of miso soup, steamed egg and sukiyaki onto their walls and family members. If this sounds like an experience you’d like to undertake but without the resulting cleaning/counselling/divorce bill, you’re in luck because there’s an arcade game for that. It even has a plot of sorts, which hints at the troubled mind of its creator, with the characters of the ‘nagging wife’ and ‘ungrateful children’ flung to the floor and covered in virtual supper.

VIRTUAL HORSE RACING

In a city where most workplaces expect you to keep your personality bottled up like an agoraphobic genie, it’s important to let off steam once in awhile. Enter Wani Wani Panic, a local take on Whack-a-Mole, and the unexpected catharsis of bopping a crocodile full on the nose with all your might. It’s the crocs or your co-workers, right?

In the next issue of Time Out Tokyo…

Available across Tokyo from September 2017

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Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017

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ILLUSTRATIONS: KENTO IIDA

If you believe games are not about winning but taking part, you’ll love Virtual Horse Racing. Usually at the back of the arcade, hidden from the entrance, you’ll find mechanical horses the size of large hamsters prancing around the world’s smallest racetrack. Pick one and then watch as the race comes to its predetermined finish. The bonkers bit: even if your horse wins, you can’t keep the medals ‘awarded’ to you. You know what they say – the house always wins.

WANI WANI PANIC