Issue 3: 50 Great Escapes, Embrace The Wanderlust

In this issue

www.timeout.com/tokyo

July – September 2014 November 2013 – January 2014

Hello Tokyo…

Hello Tokyo…

Welcome to the first ever Time Out Tokyo magazine.

You’ll have noticed we’re kicking things off with a modest little thisthe cityhumidity, outshines You may not be claim: able tothat escape butany other metropolis on to thedistract planetyourself – and it’s only you can try very hard bynot ticking because the nonstop fireworks (althoughwe’ve we do off the 50of brilliant getaways and staycations like fireworks).

Turnto tosee p24you andthrough we’ll give 49 personally selected theyou summer other incontestable reasons.

And in theorrest months.

Whether you’re here on holiday justof the magazine you’ll find hundreds proof craving a reprieve from your dailymore: grind,from we’ve got that thebeer world will seean the greatest in robots, brewing, island spa,Games samuraiever sword 2020 (p10) to our tips ondog such quintessential fighting, jellyfish tunnels, rentals and so much Tokyo And experiences (p68)on – and from more. that’s justas forGolden-gai starters. Carry paging the capital’s andmusic art to the savviest and you’ll findmusic, our bigstyle summer festival guide city cats you’ll evertrails meet(p75) (p82).

Tokyo is beyond (p60), best bicycle and one very bizarre compare. Use this magshow to make theAnd… most of ‘Jackass’-style cabaret (p66). go!it.

On top of the world…

Great escapes All bag, the With the bid in the thrills, relaxation, romance this is Tokyo’s moment… and beach hopping you Discover why you’re in the can fit intop24 three bestpossibly city on earth, months, p22

Inside Inside

06 Tokyo Update 06 Tokyo Update City news, city views 13 City news, city views Tokyo Diary 13 Tokyo Diary Essential events 21 Essential Courtesyevents calls 19 Tohoku Tokyo forUpdate

Get your hands beginners dirty 23 Road to 21 Courtesy recovery calls

How to take posta One town’s

public bath tsunami comeback 22 greatbest escapes 24 50 Tokyo: city

and staycations in the world

Make most of Need athe reason?

your

We’llsummer give youin 50!

Tokyo and beyond

40 They shoot Tokyo & city, 44 Eating One amazing Drinking 100 photographers 50 44 Shopping Eating & & Style Drinking 54 52 LGBT Shopping & 56 Art & Culture Style 60 60 Music LGBT 66 62 Nightlife Art & Culture 69 66 Film Music 70 & Hotels 68 Travel Nightlife 76 Around 71 Getting Film 81 Mount Fuji, the 72 Travel & Hotels muse 76 Getting Around 82 82 You Catsknow you’re

in Tokyo when…

Cover Editors Cover Photography Jun Igarashi Art direction:by Steve Nakamura Taishi Hirokawa Photography: Jun Kanno Hidetaka Furuya

Tokyo

OLYMPICS: GETTY IMAGES DEER: JUN KANNO; SHOW PUB: KISA TOYOSHIMA

Time Out Tokyo Inc. 5-9-9-101 Hiroo, 5-9-9-101 Hiroo,Shibuya, Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0012 www.timeout.jp +81 (0)3 5792 5721 Advertising and general enquiries: www.timeout.jp info@timeout.jp Advertising and general enquiries: info@timeout.jp

2

The best date spots Impress nightlife Lose your crush or yourself in lasers meet summer with ayour round-up of the fling, p44 in town, p70 best clubs

3

The Thebest bestmusic insider festivals Find a tips Discover your perfect Tokyo you didn’t match with ourOur fourknow existed. guide page guide, p60 to Golden-gai, p68

4

The Thebest bestshow in pubs Las Vegas Japanese music glitz, FromJapanese Perfume to traditional and Aragehonji:dancing, find out who a of skin, p66 p66 ishint rocking our world,

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The The best best new fireworks Let restaurants the battle the Which newoffood pyrotechnics places to try inbegin, 2014? p70 We’ll tell you! p48

J O I N T H E C O N V E R S AATT I O N O N FFAA C E B O O K , T W I T T E RR AANNDD TTHHEE TTOOKKYYOOIITTEE BBLLOOGG facebook.com/TimeOutTokyo

Editorial Assistants IliDesigner Saarinen Editors Eri Igarashi Ito Rebecca Morice Jun Yuki Masuko Masako Matsuzaki Staff Photographers jun@timeout.jp Editorial Assistants Misaki Kawaguchi Keisuke Annemarie Luck Eri Ito Tanigawa Ryo Harada Kenta Hoshino annemarieluck@timeout.jp Masako Matsuzaki Ryo Koshirakawa Kisa Toyoshima Production Assistants Yasuhisa Shimbo Takuroh Toyama IliYasuhisa SaarinenShimbo Ryo Harada Yuka Yamazaki Sales Assistants ilisaarinen@timeout.jp Kunihiro Miki Yu Miyakoshi Daiki Masuda Reiko Kuwabara Joyce Lam Annemarie Luck Ikuko reiko@timeout.jp MariHirahara Hiratsuka

Chief Content Producer Kosuke Shimizu Atsushi Tonosaki Megan Waters Content StaffDirector Photographers Commercial & Keisuke Tanigawa Marketing Kisa Toyoshima Akiko Toya Toyama Takuroh President/Publisher Hikari Ichikawa Hiroyuki Fushitani Sales Assistants Chairman Daiki Masuda Hiroshi Hasegawa Momo Ando

@TimeOutTokyo

Yuka Tamura Content Director Commercial & Marketing Akiko Toya President/Publisher Time Out DigitalFushitani Hiroyuki Universal House, Chairman 251 Tottenham Court Road, London, Hiroshi Hasegawa W1T 7AB www.timeout.com, +44 (0)20 7813 3000

blogs.timeout.jp/en

Editor International ContentContent International Managing International Director Becky Lucas DirectorDirector DirectorDavid Woodley Sub Editor Tayna Jackson MarcusMarcus Webb Webb David Woodley CEO Tim Arthur Writer Flo Wales Bonner International Editor Chief Technical Officer Head of Global Content Chairman-Founder Contributing Editor Chris Bourn David Cook Chris Bourn Tony Elliott James International Director Group Marketing Director GlobalArt Editor TimeHadfield Out Digital Designers Patrick AnthonyEllen Huggins Carolyn Sims Hardy Universal House, McNamee, Tom Court Havell Production CEO Tim Arthur International Art Director 251 Tottenham Road, London, Picture Researcher Dave Chairman-Founder Anthony Huggins W1T 7AB www.timeout.com, Katie Mulhern--Bhudia, Isidora O’Neill Faulkner, Adam Lee Davies Tony Elliott International Managing +44 (0)20 7813 3000

App a vailab for fre le throu e g iTune h the s stor e.

Foryour yourfull, full, up-to-the-minute up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 5 For

Tokyo update

CITY FAQ

How real is ‘karoshi’?

en-hour-plus days and little (if any) holiday time – employees in Japan are traditionally expected to dedicate their lives to their job. In extreme cases, people actually do work themselves to an early grave, suffering heart attacks or strokes due to stress. Karoshi is officially recognised as an occupational hazard, the risk of which shoots up when monthly overtime exceeds 80 hours. Estimates of yearly karoshi cases range from a few hundred to several thousand, with most of them going unreported.

In a 2013 report, the UN-associated International Labour Organization called karoshi ‘an important social

problem’ and recommended that swift measures be taken to reduce working hours, provide adequate medical and social support, and improve communication between employers and employees in order to design healthier workplaces.

As a result of decades of campaigning by anti-karoshi activists, the Japanese government declared plans to introduce a new law against the phenomenon this year, known as the Basic Law for Karoshi Prevention.

The contents of this law were still unclear at the time of writing, but it calls for the government to make it their duty to put an end to the epidemic.

For full city listings, go to www.timeout.com/tokyo

TOKYO LOVES…

Veg-flavoured Häagen-Dazs In May, the ice-cream giant launched a new low-fat series in Japan called Spoon Vege, featuring tomato and cherry, and carrot and orange. What, you haven’t heard veg desserts are big in 2014?

Kabuki face packs Now during your weekly face-mask regime you can look like a kabuki actor instead of the green goblin.

Isshin Do Honpo ‘Kabuki Face Pack’, ¥880 for two, from Kabuki-za Theatre and other outlets.

6 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Star Wars Chopsticks Go forth and conquer that rice with these lightsaber chopsticks by Kotobukiya. Choose the ones that light up and they will make you the talk of the table. ¥1,500 from main. kotobukiya.co.jp or store.kotous.com

We asked you for your opinion on karoshi and here’s what you told us:

‘People are made to feel guilty for taking leisure time.’

‘A government intervention is a good first step, but it will take a lot of adjustment of overall Japanese psychology. In the very fad-influenced mindset of the Japanese, motivated heavily by trends and celebrity, a pop culture movement would help.’

‘The older generation is forcing the young generation to work too hard. Everybody is afraid to challenge their out-ofdate working system.’

‘People feel compelled to sacrifice their happiness and the happiness of their families – for nothing.’

‘It is up to business owners to ensure employees do not overwork themselves.’

‘Those in power (politicians, educators, bosses) need to instil a new mindset that demonstrates the increased productivity that comes from having a balanced life.’

‘Force companies to pay overtime at rates that will make them think twice about asking their staff to work late.’

‘Working hours are long, but the work being done is inefficient. Many spend time at their desks looking busy, when actually they are idling their time.’

KAROSHI: YOKOTARO/PIXTA; CHOPSTICKS© & ™ LUCASFILM LTD.

The word means ‘death from overwork’, but surely it’s just figurative?

T

WHAT YOU SAID

Where in Tokyo is this?

Every issue we’ll show you a picture of a Tokyo location that you may or may not recognise. We’ll reveal where this photograph was taken in our Photo of the Day series at www.timeout.com/ tokyo. This photo’s clue: An austere, warehouse-style exterior leads into this room littered with ethnic instruments, hookah pipes and paraphernalia adorned with sanskrit text.

Travel-appin’

WHERE IN TOKYO IS THIS?: JUN IGARASHI; BAMBOO SHEET: JETSTREAM1/PIXTA; LUCAS: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

SHOW OFF ON THE ROAD The app: RoadMovies What’s it for? Turning a boring car journey into a 24-second montage video.

How does it work? Last year, this mobile video app by Honda was the top-ranked photo app in Japan, surpassing three million users. Document your road trip by recording short clips and then conjoining them, adding filter effects and background music.

Get it: Free from the App Store.

‘WISH YOU WERE HERE’ The app: Postcard on the Run What’s it for? Sending a real postcard in the mail without having to buy one postcard and find a post office while on holiday.

How does it work? Simply snap a photo on your phone, add a message and select a recipient from your address book. A few days later they get a card in the mail. If you can’t remember Granny Avril’s address, the app can email or text the person to request this info.

Get it: Free from the App Store and Google Play (costs ¥254 to send a postcard within the US and ¥295 to send one outside of the US).

YES, YOU CAN READ JAPANESE! The app: Japan Goggles What’s it for? Translating Japanese words to English via your camera or a photo.

How does it work? Select your input method – live camera, still photo, album photo – and the app will analyse the kanji for you.

Get it: Free at the App store.

Chill out the Japanese way

Traditional tricks for beating the heat

1

Tell a kaidan Turn those figurative chills you get when you hear a really good ghost story into literal ones.

Japanese people have long been employing the ritual of telling kaidan – scary Edo-period tales ­­– as a means of sending shivers down their spine to lower their body temperature. For starters, try Bancho Sarayashiki (The Story of Okiku) by Okamoto Kido. Or you could just watch ‘Ju-on’.

2

Sleep on bamboo sheets Rather than dumping your bedclothes in the freezer (which some people apparently do), bamboo sheets can be rolled out onto your futon and slept on. They are naturally low in temperature, and the spaces between the bamboo pieces help to circulate air. They’re also easy to scrub down in a traditional Japanese bath, making them eco-friendly.

3

Grow gourdy awnings According to findings

by Mitaka City local government, growing ‘green curtains’ from gourd (goya) seeds can reduce the heat inside your house by as many as two degrees.

Rakuten do a fine trade in green curtain necessaries, with a sufficiently low-rent, beer-swilling image character to encourage their efforts. Ganbatte, Goya-kun!

Turn to page 32 for more cooling tips.

TOKYO TALK Residents reveal city tips and travel highlights

Eleanor Williams, kindergarten teacher and natural hair and beauty blogger at eleanorjadore. wordpress.com Where are you from and how long have you lived in Tokyo?

I’m from Cape Town, South Africa and I’ve lived in Tokyo for a year and a half.

When friends come to visit you in Tokyo, what are your must-visit tourists spots to take them to?

I love taking friends to Shibuya to experience the bright neon lights and the sheer crazy atmosphere of so many people in one place. First-time visitors always tell me the place engages all the senses. I also take visitors for a cocktail in one of Tokyo’s luxury hotel bars, usually on the 38th or 40th floor. There’s nothing like sipping on a cocktail in a stylish bar overlooking the sprawling city.

Aside from Tokyo, what’s your favourite place in Japan?

Kyoto – it’s just too pretty for words.

Craziest thing you’ve experienced in Tokyo so far?

Coming across a massive group of zombie walkers on a random night out.

Lukas, salaryman Where are you going for your summer holiday this year?

Tohoku – it’s remote and scenic.

Other than Tokyo, where do you advise friends and family to go when they’re visiting Japan?

Miyazaki on the coast of Kyushu. It has ocean, mountains and great shopping.

Pros and cons of living in Japan?

The food is superb but there are a lot of rules, which are sometimes hard to understand as a foreigner.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 7

Itsy bitsy sushi

Local legends #3 Tiger-man

When customers challenged sushi chef Hironori Ikeno to see how small he could make his nigiri, he went all out. The novelty was so popular that he now makes his signature miniature sushi, composed of a single grain of rice and tiny slice of fish, for special occasions or as a surprise for couples at his Asakusa restaurant Sushiya no Nohachi.

Chef Ikeno is also happy to make it for you – free of charge! – if you order it along with your regular sushi, but only outside of peak hours. Sushiya no Nohachi, 1-3-7 Kaminarimon, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 3841 3841. tinyurl.com/TOTsushiya.

8 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

You can find plenty of comic cafés in Tokyo, but you’ll be hard pressed to find any Western publications on their endless manga-stacked shelves. Luckily a small group of fans fly the flag for Western (mostly American and Franco-Belgian) comics in Japan, and one of them opened ACBD café in Koenji in 2013. Here you’ll find a collection of around 300 books and mags, both originals and translations into Japanese, including everything from Spider-Man and Batman to European representatives like the wacky Gulliveriana. ACBD, 3F Grand Status Kurihara, 4-9-8 Koenji-Minami, Suginami (Koenji Station). 03 5913 8104. tinyurl.com/TOTacbd.

IMAGES: KISA TOYOSHIMA

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orty years ago, a chance encounter with a yellow mask at the Inari Kiou Shrine festival in Kabukicho paved the way for the legend of Shinjuku’s ‘Tiger Mask’. The flamboyant fellow has hidden behind his alter ego ever since, dressing head to toe in clashing patterns and accessorising with fake flowers, pink-feather headdress and stuffed animals. Whizzing around on his bicycle, he’s impossible to miss. Known to be a film fan, literally watching every movie that’s showing in Shinjuku, the 66-year-old can usually be found in the front row of a cinema. That’s when

Comic relief he’s not delivering newspapers in his day job.

So how did a newspaper delivery guy end up taking on this eccentric persona? We flagged him down on the streets of Shinjuku to ask him and his enigmatic reply was this: ‘My life started as a tiger, it will end as a tiger.’ When asked about the theme of his attire, he said ‘Love and peace’ and then explained that it’s his way of adding a ‘little lightheartedness to our degenerate world’. Guess we all need an escape from the mundane, and if you stroll around Shinjuku 3 chome between 3pm and 5pm, Tiger Mask may just provide one for you.

TOKYO TALK

It train The Shinkansen E6 series gets papped

Residents reveal their city tips and travel highlights

TRAINSPOTTING: WINHORSE/ISTOCKPHOTO; LOINCLOTH: JEREMY SUTTON-HIBBERT/GETTY; TOKYO TALKS: KISA TOYOSHIMA

What’s the deal with trainspotting?

Have you spotted the trainspotters yet? They’re that lot huddled at the end of the platform, cameras poised. You see, Japanese folk love trains. It’s estimated there are at least one million tetsu-ota (railfans) in the country, each spending an average of ¥20,000 a month on their hobby (making the railway industry worth one-hundred billion yen!). These anoraks can be divided into noritetsu (who ride the trains) and two types of toritetsu (those who take photos and those who record the sounds).

But what’s so fascinating about the trains in Japan? Aside from their renowned speed and aesthetics, it’s the variety that grabs people’s attention. There are about 200 railway companies (JR Group being the largest), which together produce 10 to 20 new models each year. Some

of the most popular among trainspotters are the luxury overnight express train Cassiopeia; Hokutosei night train; high-speed test train Doctor Yellow; and the seasonal limited express sleeper train Akebono. You may also find a few scuttling to catch sight of the more low-key Toden Streetcar, as well as the industrial diesel-hydraulic locomotive DE10.

Want to join in? Best spots include the bridge in front of Nippori Station (for variety), Cafe N3331 inside Maach Ecute Kanda Manseibashi (for action) and Yurakucho Coline’s wooden terrace (for shinkansen). Or, if you prefer not to be shoved out the way by overeager tetsu-ota trying to get the best shot, check out Tetsudo Now’s website (www.demap.info/tetsudonow/), which maps out the exact location of all trains in real time.

Klaus and Tsumi, discovered at Yoyogi Park’s Zombie Walking event in May Why are you dressed like that?

Because we are zombies.

Best place you’ve ever been to in Japan?

Klaus: Shimizu Park in Noda, Chiba. I love watching the field athletics in the park; super fun!

Tsumi: Hokkaido is beautiful.

What’s next on your city to-do list?

Klaus: I want to walk through an underground tunnel. [You can, in fact, do this – check out the ‘G-Cans’ tour at tinyurl.com/TOTg-cans.]

Tsumi: I want to go to Yamagata. I’ve heard you can lease out an entire village there. [We’re not sure about this one.]

4 reasons to embrace the loincloth

1

Sharefun’s version is based on ‘etchufundoshi’ which, according to their website, ‘wraps up your bottom comfortably’. So there’s no need to veer too far from your comfort zone.

In fact, if Sharefun is to be believed, wearing fundoshi will provide the best comfort zone you’ve ever had. It’s made from linen, a natural fabric that’s breathable and helps absorb and evaporate sweat.

It also means doing away with constricting elastic bands.

And there’s a range for women too, so couples can go to bed wearing their matching fundoshi, if that idea tickles your fancy.

For more information or to purchase online (prices from ¥3,480) visit sharefun.jp/#story.

2 The Japanese term for that traditional thong-like men’s underwear of bygone years is ‘fundoshi’. This cotton undergarment kind of went out of fashion after World War II, when briefs and boxers were introduced to the Japanese market. But Tokyo-based label Sharefun is just one of the brands bringing back the loincloth with a range of contemporary designs Here’s why you should take the plunge....

3 4

Fumiko Imano, fine artist Aoyama Best place you’ve been in Japan?

Enoshima. I saw an amazing sunset that made me feel like I was on a journey.

Where would you take visiting friends from overseas?

The basement of Shinjuku Isetan department store. I actually did take one friend there and he really loved the delicatessen and sweet section. Yummy.

Where do you want to go next on holiday?

I want to go to Kyoto. I just want to go for a walk around.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 9

Islands by numb Japan is an archipelago of 6,852 islands, about 430 of which are inhabited. We bring you seven favourites…

10 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

IXTA

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THE NUMBER OF TOURISTS WHO TREK TO SEE THEM EVERY YEAR

Okunoshima served as the site for chemical weapon production during World War II, reportedly producing kilotons of mustard gas and tear gas, and using rabbits as test subjects. None of these bunnies survived, and the ones that now roam the island are descendants of rabbits let loose after the island was developed as a park. Dogs and cats are not allowed on the island, natch.

ISLAND HOP? Take the Kodama Shinkansen from Tokyo to Hiroshima (four hours), transferring to the Kure line at Mihara Station to reach Tadanoumi Station. From here you can make your way to Tadanoumi Ferry Terminal and hop on a boat to Okunoshima (15 minutes; boats leave about every half hour), or join a guided tour such as ‘Okunoshima One Day’ through Tours by Locals (www.toursbylocals.com/okunoshimaoneday-private).

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THE NUMBER OF RABBITS LIVING ON OKUNOSHIMA ISLAND

ART ISLAND

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VISIONARY ISLAND

700 100,000

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GHOST ISLAND

Yabiji is part of the Miyako Islands in Okinawa prefecture and it is made up of 100 coral reefs, making it the largest coral reef cluster in Japan. For most of the year, the corals are underwater but every year during the second week of April the tide subsides, revealing them in all their glory. It’s this fascinating feature that’s earned Yabiji the nickname of ‘land of illusions’ and made it a popular tourist destination for ‘coral walking’ (note that some people believe this act is damaging the coral reef on a long-term basis).

ISLAND HOP? Fly from Tokyo to Miyako, Okinawa (three hours and 50 minutes). It seems the ferries to Yabiji are not in operation any more, as of this year, so your best bet is to book a diving or snorkelling trip to the reef. Ask your hotel concierge for help if need be.

HI I

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RABBIT ISLAND

THE NUMBER OF DAYS PER YEAR YOU CAN ACTUALLY SEE THE ISLAND

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You can walk the path around this remote little island in under an hour, but the real reason to visit is for the fishing, diving and birdwatching.

The island is a haven for migratory birds and, depending on the season, often the beaches, gardens, lighthouse and trees will be bursting with interesting species.

ISLAND HOP? Fly from Tokyo’s Haneda Airport to Wajima’s Noto Airport (one hour), then take the New Hegura ferry (90 minutes, www11.ocn. ne.jp/~hegura) from Wajima Port to Hegura Island.

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THE KM2 OF THE CORAL REEF THAT MAKES UP YABIJI ISLAND

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Hashima Island – known as Gunkanjima, or Battleship Island, because of its shape – was once occupied by a thriving coal-mining community, but in 1974 the mines became redundant as petroleum took over as the main energy source. In 2013, Google Street View sent a team to film here and the result is a fascinating view of forbidden sites on the abandoned island. The 2012 James Bond movie ‘Skyfall’ based the lair of villain Raoul Silva on the site, and in 2009 – when the island was re-opened to the public – Japanese rock band B’z shot the music video for their single ‘My Lonely Town’ on the island.

ISLAND HOP? Catch a flight from Tokyo to Nagasaki (just under two hours) and reserve a spot on the guided tour of the island from Tokiwa Terminal (www.gunkanjima-concierge.com/en).

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THE NUMBER OF YEARS THAT PASSED BEFORE IT WAS RE-OPENED TO THE PUBLIC

AR

Hello!

300+ 4KM

THE YEAR HASHIMA ISLAND BECAME A GHOST TOWN

A/P

1974 35

Goodbye!

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100+ 85 THE NUMBER OF CATS ON TASHIRO ISLAND

THE NUMBER OF HUMANS

THE NUMBER OF SPECIES OF WILD BIRDS ON HEGURA ISLAND THE CIRCUMFERENCE OF THE ISLAND Meow

CAT ISLAND

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BIRD ISLAND

Before cat memes took over the internet, real cats were already taking over Tashirojima. The 3.14km2 ‘Cat Island’ is filled with feral felines who are worshipped like kings. The reason is because, back in the old days when the sericultural industry was thriving here, these furry friends acted like the rat police, killing pesky rodents and thereby protecting the silkworms’ produce.

Tashirojima has also been nicknamed ‘Manga Island’ because of the camping resort that was designed by five anime artists.

ISLAND HOP? This is a slightly challenging journey because the area was heavily affected by the 2011 tsunami and has not fully recovered. Also, it might be tricky to find someone who can help you in English. But if you’re up for it, catch a shinkansen from Tokyo to Sendai, then a local train to Ishinomaki Station in Miyagi prefecture, then take a bus to Ishinomaki Port and board the Ajishima Line ferry (www12.ocn.ne.jp/~ajishima/) for a 40-minute journey to Nitoda Port in Tashirojima. Total journey time is approximately four hours.

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20 hours down, five more to go

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The Ogasawara Islands are about 1,000km south of Tokyo. They were first inhabited in 1830 and today 2,000 people live on the biggest island in the group, Chichijima, which spans 24km2. With high cliffs, crystal clear sea and magnificent coral reefs, this is a popular destination for divers. It’s also one of the few places you can sample turtle soup.

ISLAND HOP? The only way to get there is on the Ogasawara-Maru ferry (www.ogasawarakaiun.co.jp/ english/). The trip from Takeshiba Terminal in Tokyo to Futami Port in Chichijima takes 25.5 hours, and you’ll most likely be bedding down in a communal area unless you’re able to snap up a cabin.

THE FURTHEST ISLAND

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THE NAME OF THE ART MUSEUM ON THE ISLAND THAT’S DEDICATED TO JAMES BOND

THE NUMBER OF HOURS IT TAKES TO GET THERE BY SHIP

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THE YEAR NAOSHIMA TURNED INTO AN ‘ART ISLAND’

Located in the Seto Inland Sea, Naoshima has become revered for its dedication to blending contemporary art installations with the natural beauty of the island.

It all began in the ’80s when the chairman of Benesse Corporation, billionaire art enthusiast Soichiro Fukutake, began financing art projects on the island, which he continues to do today. The popular 007 Museum is dedicated to the James Bond novel The Man with the Red Tattoo because the story is set partially on the island.

ISLAND HOP? To get from Tokyo to Naoshima you have to go via Okayama. You can fly from Haneda Airport (one hour and 15 minutes) or take a shinkansen (four hours) to Okayama. From Okayama, catch a train or bus to Uno Station (one hour) and then walk five minutes to the ferry port. From Uno port, take the Miyanoura ferry to Naoshima (20 minutes, www.benesse-artsite.jp/en/ access/island.html).

1,000 25.5

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THE DISTANCE IN KM FROM TOKYO TO CHICHI ISLAND

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Cats rule the world

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For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 11

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Tokyo Diary July AROUND TOWN FIREFLY EVENING AT CHINZANSO Held at the opulent Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo, a luxury spot that boasts its very own firefly garden, this viewing event lets visitors cross the delicate insects’ natural breeding ground and marvel at their mysterious glow.

Until Jul 13 Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo, 2-10-8 Sekiguchi, Bunkyo. tinyurl. com/TOTfirefly. Free.

What’s on in town July – September 2014 Make the most of the city with our editor’s picks of the best things to do over the next three months

FOOD & DRINK OAK DOOR BEER GARDEN Sip in style on the patio outside the Grand Hyatt’s signature steak restaurant, where the set price gets you as much as you like from a menu of Western-style finger foods, washed down with free-flowing beer, sangria and organic wine.

Until Aug 31 Oak Door, 6F Grand Hyatt Tokyo, 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato. tinyurl.com/TOToakdoor. ¥6,800 plus tax and service.

FOOD & DRINK TOKYO BAY NORYOSEN The capital’s very own booze cruise departs from Takeshiba Terminal every night (weather permitting) and does a lap of the bay while serving up all-you-can-drink beer, wine and cocktails. Go dressed in a yukata and get ¥1,000 discount.

Until Sep 30 Takeshiba Ferry Terminal, 1-16-3 Kaigan, Minato. tinyurl.com/TOTnoryosen. ¥2,600.

ART & CULTURE ECO EDO NIHONBASHI ART AQUARIUM 2014 Deploying a range of lighting tricks and traditional Japanese motifs, not to mention thousands of live goldfish, producer Hidetomo Kimura’s annual exhibition is a must-visit. Go in the evening for a hot atmosphere and top cocktails.

Jul 11-Sep 23 Nihonbashi Mitsui Hall, 5F Coredo Muromachi, 2-2-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo. h-i-d. co.jp/art/index.html. Adults ¥1,000, children ¥600.

FOOD & DRINK FOREST BEER GARDEN This stylish beer garden stands out from its boozy cousins thanks to its tranquil, tree-lined surrounds and bubbling waterfall. The popular all-you-can-eat-and-drink option includes everything from BBQ beef to flavoured rum cocktails.

Until Sep 27 Meiji Jingu Gaien Trim Sports Centre, 14-13 Kasumigaokacho, Shinjuku. tinyurl. com/TOTforestbeer. Women ¥3,800, men ¥4,100.

FOOD & DRINK HIGHBALL GARDEN IN TOKYO TOWER Offering an alternative to the ubiquitous summer beer gardens, Tokyo Tower will be serving up whisky highballs until the end of September.

True boozehounds will enjoy the

mega-sized drinks on offer, while traditionalists will be happy to hear that beer is actually sold here too.

Until Sep 28 Tokyo Tower, 4-2-8 Shiba Koen, Minato. tinyurl.com/ TOThighball.

Away with the fairies Or, at least, the fireflies at Hotel Chinzanso

A quiet beer Unless you start downing the rum cocktails

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 13

Tokyo Diary

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS ANCIENT MAMMALS EXHIBITION A fearsome bunch of extinct mammals come together at this exhibition, created in collaboration with around 20 museums. Highlights include three complete skeletons that form a family of Asian straighttusked elephants.

Jul 12-Oct 5 National Museum of Nature and Science, 7-20 Ueno Koen, Taito. tinyurl.com/TOTancient-expo.

Advance adults ¥1,400, under-18s ¥500; same-day adults ¥1,600, under-18s ¥600.

LEISURE GARDEN POOL Forget you’re in the big city at the New Otani’s expansive outdoor pool, decorated like a tropical resort and featuring a fun poolside restaurant serving West Coast-style burgers and mojitos.

Jul 19-Sep 7 Hotel New Otani, 4-1 Kioicho, Chiyoda. newotani.co.jp/ tokyo/. Hotel guests: adults ¥3,000, children ¥2,000; non-guests: adults ¥12,000, children ¥8,000.

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS SPACE EXPO 2014 Study the history and space exploration achievements of America’s NASA and Japan’s JAXA at this special exhibition featuring materials from the time of the Apollo programme all the way up to the space shuttle age and beyond.

Jul 19-Sep 23 Makuhari Messe, 2-1 Nakase, Mihama, Chiba. tinyurl. com/TOTspace-expo. Advance adults ¥2,200, students ¥1,200, children ¥800; same-day adults ¥2,500, students ¥1,500, children ¥900.

August MUSIC PRINCE DISCO 2014 IN SUMMER AT HITEN The Grand Prince Hotel New Takanawa may not be the most likely venue for a no-holds-barred dance party, but the Prince Disco bash is happening for the third time and keeps expanding. It’s a fab festival

Classic Burton Taking the music off-screen

for dress-up fans.

Aug 1 Grand Prince Hotel New Takanawa, 3-13-1, Takanawa, Minato. tinyurl. com/TOTprince. Advance standard ¥5,000 (incl. two drinks), same-day standard ¥6,000 (incl. two drinks), other ticket options available.

AROUND TOWN ASEAN FESTIVAL The 10 countries of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations join forces and take over Yoyogi Park for this two-day celebration packed with music, culture and, of course, loads and loads of delicious food.

Aug 2-3 Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizounocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTasean.

Free.

MUSIC ED SHEERAN For the last three years or so, English singer-songwriter Ed Sheeran has been conquering the hearts of teenage girls worldwide with his sugar-coated love songs, but he’s also been hard at work writing material for superstars like One Direction and Taylor Swift.

Expectations are tuned up to the max for his second album, ‘x’, produced by none other than Rick Rubin and Pharrell Williams.

Aug 8 Studio Coast, 2-2-10 Shinkiba, Koto. tinyurl.com/TOTsheeran.

Advance ¥5,800.

MUSIC DANNY ELFMAN’S MUSIC FROM THE FILMS OF TIM BURTON Composer extraordinaire Danny Elfman brings the music from Tim Burton’s movies alive at this concert, first performed at London’s Royal

14 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Albert Hall last year. A full orchestra plays while familiar Burton themes flash on the big screen.

Aug 9-10 Tokyo International Forum, 3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda. elfmanburton.jp/en.html. ¥5,800-¥9,800.

AROUND TOWN MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S ZOO If you’ve ever wondered what happens to zoo animals once the sun goes down, you can find out at this event.

Japan’s oldest zoo extends its opening hours until 8pm, offering visitors a glimpse of the after-hours animal menagerie.

Aug 9-17 Ueno Zoo, 9-83 Ueno Koen, Taito. www.tokyo-zoo.net/zoo/ ueno. Adults ¥600, seniors ¥300, children ¥200.

MUSIC CIBO MATTO This influential J-girl duo grew out of the NYC art scene in the early ’90s, gaining popularity with their trippy, food-themed pop. Yuka and Miho reunited for charity gigs after the 2011 Tohoku disaster, and will now be back on home ground.

Aug 14-15 Blue Note Tokyo, 6-3-16 Minami-Aoyama, Minato. bluenote. co.jp/jp/artists/cibo-matto. ¥6,800.

ART & CULTURE COMIKET 86 Everything from manga and anime to costumes, music and hardware will be on display and sale at Comiket, one of the world’s largest comic fanzine sales events.

Head to the cosplay corner to spot some seriously dressed-up enthusiasts (see above).

COMIKET 86: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Tokyo Diary

For him/for her Elephant skeletons and poolside cocktails (right)

Trippy duo The Cibo Matto girls

Hips don’t lie Especially at the Asakusa Samba Carnival

Aug 15-17 Tokyo Big Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake, Koto. tinyurl.com/TOTcomiket.

Free.

SAKUSA SAMBA CARNIVAL: ©ASAKUSA SAMBA CARNIVAL ORGANISING COMMITTEE; SPACE EXPO 2014: EARTH AND THE KIBO MODULE ©JAXA/NASA

AROUND TOWN ASAKUSA SAMBA CARNIVAL Teams of elaborately attired dancers flood the streets of Asakusa for Japan’s largest samba carnival, shaking their tail feathers to the Brazilian beat as they work their way from Umamichi-dori to Kaminarimon-dori.

Aug 23 Central Asakusa. asakusa-samba.org. Free.

FOOD & DRINK BELGIAN BEER WEEKEND TOKYO Taste beery goodness with over 60 different varieties, running from the workaday (Stella Artois) to the downright exotic (Mystic Cherry), while jamming to the tunes of Belgian artists at this alternative to Tokyo’s many extra-seasonal Oktoberfests.

Sep 4-15 Roppongi Hills Arena, 6-101 Roppongi, Minato. tinyurl.com/ TOTbelgianbeer. Starter set ¥3,100.

MUSIC BABYMETAL WORLD TOUR 2014 Kicking off in France in July, Japan’s hard-rock idol group Babymetal are taking on the world with nine shows, including gigs in the UK, Germany and Canada.

Catch the teen-girl team on home turf at their world tour finale concert.

Sep 14 Makuhari Messe. 2-1 Nakase, Mihama, Chiba. www.m-messe.co.jp/ en/. Advance ¥6,500.

AROUND TOWN VIETNAM FESTIVAL 2014 There’s always ample supply of bánh mì, 333 Beer and pho, and this year you’ll enjoy the interesting traditional art of ‘water puppetry’.

Sep 13-14 Yoyogi Park Event Plaza, Keyaki Namiki Street, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizounocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTvietnam. Free.

AROUND TOWN FIESTA MEXICANA Take a break from Yoyogi Park’s parade of national festivals and head out to the Odaiba bayside for this weekend celebration of all things Mexican. Sombreros, mariachi music and tacos are all well and good, but this one features pro wrestling shows too.

Sep 13-15 Aqua City Odaiba and surroundings, 1-7-1 Daiba, Minato. fiestamexicana-tokyo.com. Free.

Space Expo 2014

ART & CULTURE TOKYO GAME SHOW 2014 Japanese video game giants display their latest big-name creations at this massive extravaganza, but visitors will do well to also keep their eyes peeled for hidden gems at the indie corner and take the chance to chat with industry insiders.

Sep 20-21 Makuhari Messe, 2-1 Nakase, Mihama, Chiba. expo.nikkeibp. co.jp/tgs/2014/exhibition/english.

Advance ¥1,000, same-day ¥1,200.

Want more upcoming events? Go online to timeout.com/tokyo

Get your game on Tokyo Game Show 2014, Prince Disco 2014 Summer (right, top), Babymetal (right, bottom)

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 15

Tokyo Diary

FOOD & DRINK UDON TENKAICHI TOURNAMENT More than 20 udon eateries from all over the country vie for the All-Japan Udon Championship at this glorious three-day gourmet bash that allows noodle fans to sample extra-delectable mixtures and vote for their favourite.

Aug 22-24 Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizounocho, Shibuya. udon-1.com (Japanese only). Free.

September

Promotional feature

I,TOKYO Matthew Chozick Television personality, writer, professor, 33

FLYING BOOKS

LOCAL INSIGHT

We’ve seen you on TV and we’re impressed by your Japanese! What’s your secret to learning the language?

I’m still constantly learning new things! When I encounter a word I don’t know, I look up example sentences to better understand nuance and usage. Aside from that, I read as much as I have time for and I chat daily with Japanese friends.

What are you working on at the moment?

Today’s been particularly eclectic: I was practising jokes for a variety show that we’re filming tomorrow, putting together a summer school lecture, checking a friend’s translation of a poetry collection, and emailing a zoologist with questions for a children’s book about how animals dream.

When did you first feel like a Tokyoite?

That’s a tough question! I was walking one day – soon after moving here – when a spry, elderly woman with a big straw hat assumed I could explain in Japanese how to get to Shinjuku Station.

She didn’t hesitate to ask me for directions and I was delighted to show her the way.

What’s the sound of Tokyo that you miss the most when you’re away?

The sound of peaceful snoring on trains. It’s a charming reminder of just how safe and comfy public transportation is. Perrrrfect for napping.

Where have you never been in Tokyo that you’re scared of?

Is this a trick question? There isn’t anywhere scary in Tokyo! The one exception might be Kichijoji’s ghost-themed bar, Yurei Izakaya, which I’ve heard is teeming with animatronic creepy crawlies. I assume, though, that the people haunting the place are, like everywhere else, really kind and helpful.

Recommended cheap eats in Tokyo that not many people know of?

Come dine in Koenji on the Chuo line! With a budget of about ¥1,000 you can enjoy a yummy dinner with relaxing gamelan music at Café Bali Campur. Or check out nearby Dogberry if you’re into indie rock, plush sofas and late-night veggie options.

Which programmes on NHK World do you find most helpful as a foreigner?

If anyone reading this hasn’t seen ‘BEGIN Japanology’, it’s wonderful. And actually I’ve appeared on NHK World to discuss Japanese literature, so I hope people find it helpful.

Finally, do you have any survival tips for city visitors?

Visitors: this will sound random but since it’s a perennial issue that results in arrests, please follow my survival tip. No matter how refreshing the Imperial Palace’s moat looks on a sweltering summer day, don’t go skinny-dipping in it!

IMAGE: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

What made you decide to live in Tokyo?

I’m so bad at concisely answering this classic question. Basically, I came in my mid-twenties to do literary research, as a grad student, and was smitten by this magical city. I now live in Suginami Ward.

To find out how you can get NHK WORLD TV 24/7 in your country, on

I, GLOBAL Domo NHK mascot

Travel checklist © NHK-TYO

Hey it’s Domo, NHK World’s eternally expressive mascot.

His home channel has prepared the perfect guide to making the most of your trip to Japan. Let’s see if you can tick off all the boxes…

First things first

Join the culture club

Plan like a pro

Relive your memories

Stay up to date

Meet up with Domo

Before you do anything else, make sure to download the free NHK World viewing app. This handy tool allows you to watch the English-language NHK World TV channel around the clock – a great way to get acquainted with Japan before your trip.

There’s no end to the fascinating facets of Japanese culture and inspirational fashion. Get to the heart of it with programmes like ‘Kawaii International’, which focuses on the kawaii (cute) style trends, ‘Japanology Plus’ and ‘Kabuki Kool’.

your TV, computer or mobile device, visit www.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/

K-

NH

©

Keep up with the news during your trip with NHK World’s ‘Newsline’ shows, your source for hourly Japan and world updates. The channel’s website provides the latest news as it comes in, while programmes like ‘Today’s CloseUp’ and ‘Asia Biz Forecast’ are your source for analysis and commentary.

You’re back home, but still can’t get enough of that delicious washoku (traditional Japanese food)? ‘Dining with the Chef’ will provide you with easyto-follow instructions and recipes for everything from chilled ramen noodles to grilled tofu, while often offering alternatives for hard-to-find ingredients.

TY O

Once you’re familiar with the NHK World shows, it’s time to find out about some of Japan’s top tourist destinations.

‘Journeys in Japan’ introduces viewers to the traditional culture and nature of the country from a foreigner’s perspective, while ‘Tokyo Eye’ takes you behind the scenes of the multi-faceted capital.

Want to see more of our fluffy friend?

Take a look at the stop-motion videos on the app or on Domo’s official website (www.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/domo/) and keep your eyes peeled: Domo will be travelling the world this year, going from New York to Paris, London and a few Asian cities.

[TOHOKU UPDATE]

GET YOUR HANDS DIRTY We mean this in the best way possible – as a volunteer for one of the charity organisations who continue to help those in need after March 2011’s earthquake and tsunami, you can make a real difference, whether you’re toiling soil or building homes.

Words Nick Narigon

N

ow that over three years have passed since the March 11 East Japan earthquake and tsunami, most international charity organisations have diverted aid to disasterstricken areas in other parts of the world, leaving local charities to tie up loose ends here. While the bricks and mortar work is nearing completion (nuclear plants aside), there are still people in dire need of assistance. If you’ve been looking for a way to lend a hand, besides opening the chequebook, there are several grassroots organisations that welcome volunteers.

Immediately after the disaster, OGA for Aid volunteers worked feverishly with other organisations to set up the Tohoku Distributions System, which supplied living essentials to over 2,800 families living in the Minamisanriku, Kesennuma and Ishinomaki areas. ‘This project was unique in that most activities like this are run out of the local government offices,’ says Angela Ortiz, director of administration for OGA for Aid. ‘However the situation in Tohoku was so severe, devastation so extreme, that even the official setups were facing serious confusion and inefficiencies. By working with local community leaders, OGA for Aid was able to sidestep the red tape and establish a line of support.’

Over the last three years, OGA for Aid has organised over 40 community projects in Tohoku, including an annual holiday ball, the international spring festival and an American sports camp for children. Currently, the group is focused on supporting Green Farmers Miyagi, a group of

local farmers working to address the issues of declination, ageing population, connectivity between the older and younger generations and rebuilding the devastated communities.

‘We have plenty of outdoor, get-your-hands-dirty kind of work,’ says Ortiz. ‘We are heading into the busiest planting season. Many volunteers learn how to operate farm equipment for planting, watering and cultivating of seedlings. Drivers are particularly appreciated, as are those with some speaking abilities of Japanese, however it’s not absolutely necessary.’

Another quick-acting organisation is Ashinaga, a long-standing Japanese charity operation devoted to supporting orphans worldwide. Just two days after the earthquake and tsunami, Ashinaga moved to provide ¥2.82 million emergency relief grants to each of the 2,082 eligible children, from newborns to graduate students, who lost one or both parents due to the disaster, says Ashinaga spokesperson Hiroshi Iizuka.

In addition to financial assistance, Ashinaga constructed Rainbow Houses in Sendai, Ishinomaki and Rikuzentakata. Completed this spring, these three facilities provide short-term and long-term psychological and emotional care to children who have lost parents to the catastrophe, and opportunities for bereaved families to meet and interact with people in similar circumstances.

Ashinaga is actively seeking volunteers who can take care of orphaned children currently living at the Rainbow Houses. Volunteers are required to speak fluent Japanese and take a training course to learn the basic skills of dealing with children who have experienced the sudden loss of their parents.

One international organisation still in need of volunteers in Iwate and Miyagi is Habitat for Humanity. Most recently, volunteers from around the world gathered in Ofunato every weekend from October to May to build a new home for a local man who lost everything in the tsunami.

‘Our home partner regained his confidence and became sociable once again thanks to the encouragement and positivity from the volunteers,’ says Habitat for Humanity spokesperson Saori Machimura. ‘Volunteers can participate in various repairing and building projects to help improve the living conditions of people in Tohoku.

Through working with home owners, locals, other volunteers, staff and skilled workers, anyone can safely contribute to the cause regardless of knowledge about construction.’

OGA for Aid: ogaforaid.org/en/.

Ashinaga: www.ashinaga.org/en/.

Habitat for Humanity volunteer website: www. habitatjp.org/enblog/2013/10/jpn_relief_ volunteers_wanted.html.

Recently, volunteers built a home for a man who lost everything

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 19

P this lease pr e mag azin sent e to get all fo od a nd d rink orde rs!

10 % O

FF

Courtesy calls Etiquette made easy

No 3 How to take a public bath...

T

…And why we’re suggesting getting even hotter during 40-degree weather.

By Matt Schley. Illustrations by Bunny Bissoux thoroughly before entering the bath using the showers provided. Most high-end onsen have soap, shampoo and towels on site, but more reasonably priced locations might require you to bring your own (if you arrive empty handed you can usually buy from them).

he onsen: an essential part of the Japan experience.

Though hot springs are in no way unique to Japan, as usual the Japanese have their own way of doing things and there are all sorts of unspoken rules you need to abide by when bathing naked with strangers.

Read on to avoid any embarrassing faux pas on your trip to the very public bath.

DO GO IN SUMMER On its face, the thought of immersing oneself in hot water on an already steamy day doesn’t sound particularly appealing, but Japanese are known to visit onsen year-round. Why, you ask? While warming up in winter is certainly one of the appeals of onsening, the primary reason to visit Japanese hot springs is ostensibly their detoxifying and healing effects: the natural spring water contains elements like sulphur and sodium chloride, and is thought to heal aches and pains, and even help with conditions such as diabetes, hypertension and rheumatism.

DO GET NAKED This ain’t your local swimming pool: almost all onsen have a strict birthday suit-only policy. Towels are used while going to and from the changing room to the bath, but once

you hit the water, it’s the full monty.

Make sure your towel doesn’t touch the bathwater: it’s traditionally placed on your head for safekeeping.

A big part of onsen culture is ‘hadaka no tsukiai’ (naked communion). In other words, there’s a certain level of communication that can only be reached when it’s all hanging out.

Don’t worry about your naughty bits being spotted by members of the opposite sex: onsen have been

gender segregated since the Meiji period (1868-1912), which is when us Westerners with our prudish ways hit the scene.

DON’T JUMP RIGHT IN Onsen aren’t baths in the traditional ‘clean the dirt off your body’ sense.

They’re for relaxing, healing and detoxing, and entering the water with a sweaty, smelly body really kills the wa, man. Make sure you scrub down

DO COVER YOUR INK Bad news for the marked: entering an onsen with visible tattoos is generally a big no-no. In the West, tattoos are an expression of one’s personality, but in Japan, while tattoos are gradually catching on with the young, they still mean one thing in the minds of most people: yakuza.

That means no tattoos in onsen, even for foreigners who obviously have nothing to do with the Japanese gangster life. It’s easy enough to cover up small tats with waterproof bandages, but for those who have ink that’s impossible to hide, look out for Japanese inns that have their own private onsen – you can usually rent it out for an hour or two. These private onsen are also nice for opposite-sex couples, inked or not, who want to soak together.

For more on city life news and culture, see blogs.timeout.jp/en

TOKYO’S TOP THREE ONSEN

Other towns in Japan might be more famous for their onsen, but Tokyo is no slouch in the hot spring department. Here are a few picks that won’t take a bullet train ride to get to.

NAGOMI NO YU The rotenburo (outdoor) baths here are complemented by a range of other tubs – including one using carbonated water – and saunas. It’s worth paying an extra ¥450 to get access to the various stone saunas and ‘healing’ zones.

1-10-10 Kamiogi, Suginami (Ogikubo Station). 03 3398 4126. tinyurl.com/TOTnagomi.

OEDO ONSEN MONOGATARI Located on the artificial island-Odaiba, this Edo-era onsen theme park houses six different types of baths, including one in which you can lie down (‘neyu’), a lukewarm bath ideal for summer (‘nuruyu’) and a special bath for dogs (‘Tsunayoshi Bath Tub’). 2-6-3 Aomi, Koto (Telecom Center Station). 03 5500 1126. tinyurl.com/TOToedo.

JAKOTSUYU BATHHOUSE A mere five minutes from Asakusa Station, Jakotsuyu costs just ¥460 and tends to not get much tourist traffic.

A painting of Mt Fuji looms over the indoor bathing area, leading to a rock-lined onsen, which Tokyoites have been enjoying since the Edo period. 1-11-11 Asakusa, Taito.

03 3841 8645. tinyurl.com/TOTJakotsuyu.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 21

5 0 G R E A T

ESCAPES & STAYCATIONS R

emember the days when travel was still an unhurried affair? When there was romance in the journey; an A to B that often entailed a cross-country road trip and stupid car games. Don’t worry, we’re not about to go all hippie on you and tell you to cut technology from your holiday, but we are going to give you a whole lot of ideas for chilled-out, love-struck or adventure-filled sojourns in Tokyo and beyond. They’ll beef up your trip to Japan or, if you live here, give you a change in scenery – even if just for a day. We’ve also graciously included a ‘summer survival kit’ – because anyone who’s spent a few hot months in Japan will tell you: prepare to sweat!

ART DIRECTION STEVE NAKAMURA IMAGE JUN KANNO

OUR COVER GETAWAY JINYA RYOKAN

Said to have inspired famed anime artist Hayao Miyazaki (‘My Neighbor Totoro’, ‘Spirited Away’) who spent much of his childhood here, Jinya is a little piece of peace and luxury that’s only an hour from Tokyo. There won’t be a gushing waterfall or curious deer just outside your door, but there will be an 8.2acre Japanese garden, bamboo trees and a hot spring.

2-8-24 Tsurumaki-Kita, Hadano, Kanagawa.

0463 77 1300. www.jinya-ryokan.jp/.

22 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Quick getaway Open the door to something new this summer

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 23

[50 GREAT ESCAPES & STAYCATIONS]

s n o i t a c y a t s

sion Matt Schley plays a ver of 20 Questions to help you plan your summer staycation in Tokyo.

Spoiler alert: the answer to all but two of the questions is ‘yes’

Q A

R TE AF

Do you have to leave your home?

No

The ultimate form of a staycation, we suppose, is feeling like you’re on holiday without stepping outside your apartment. To that end, check out Tokyo-based Vacation Veranda, who transform even modest-sized verandas into super-chic works of art. ‘But my apartment’s a rental,’ you say? Vacation Veranda has options that don’t permanently alter the space, perfect for picking up and moving – though with a veranda this cool, we suspect you won’t want to. www.vacationveranda.com.

Q A

Are there horses there?

Yes

Tokyo and horseback riding: not usually two things we think of in the same sentence. But it’s possible to saddle up and take a lesson – in English, no less – just an hour from Shinjuku at Hachioji Riding Club. They offer lessons for those of all skill levels and even have ponies. You know, for the kids. 1-501 Tangimachi, Hachioji (Hachioji Station). 042 691 1915. hachioji-rc.co.jp.

Q A

Did Babe Ruth once play a game there?

Yes

Why does the beautiful, 88-year-old Meiji Jingu Baseball Stadium always play second fiddle to the dark, cavernous, Tokyo Dome? Probably thanks to its inhabitants, the Tokyo Yakult Swallows, who play the perpetual underdog to Tokyo Dome’s overpaid, overpowered Yomiuri Giants. But so what if the home team stands little chance of winning? The atmosphere’s great and the fans are passionate.

3-1 Kasumigaoka-machi, Shinjuku (Gaienmae, Kokuritsu-Kyogijo, Shinanomachi, Sendagaya Stations). yakult-swallows.co.jp/english.

Q

Does it involve a boat designed by a manga author?

Weirdly specific question, but yes!

A

Named after an ancient Japanese queen, the Himiko is a Tokyo Bay ‘water bus’ that shuttles riders between Asakusa, Odaiba and Toyosu. If it looks a lot like a spaceship, that’s because it was designed by legendary sci-fi manga author Leiji Matsumoto (Space Battleship Yamato, Space Pirate Captain Harlock).

With an Asakusa-to-Odaiba ticket costing ¥1,560, it’s not the cheapest cruise, but it is the most futuristic. www.suijobus.co.jp/ship/himiko.html.

24 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

CITYSCAPE: MATYA1234/PIXTA; HORSE: © ALEXIA_KHRUSHCHEVA/ISTOCK PHOTO; BASEBALL GLOVE: PHOTOLOGY1971/SHUTTERSTOCK; MANGA BOAT: KPG_PAYLESS/SHUTTERSTOCK

n 1. stay-at-home vacations.

2. a popular alternative for recessionistas and workaholics who need a break. 3. should not be undermined as inferior holidays especially when living in a city like Tokyo.

RE FO E B

[50 GREAT ESCAPES & STAYCATIONS]

Q A

Q A

Can you rent a dog?

Yup

Tokyo’s littered with cat cafés, but what if you’re a dog person?

We’ve got that covered too. Check out Wanpakuland in Adachi – they have a whole stable of pups you can ‘rent’ for a walk, a day, or even up to a month. 1-3016 Umida, Adachi (Umejima Station).

03 3886 5158. wanpakuland.com/ wanpaku-rentaru.html (Japanese only).

Q

Does it feel like a combination of Kyoto and Paris?

A

Unbelievably so

DOG: PAYLESSIMAGES1/PIXTA; GYUKATSU: SHIMBO YASUHISA; GEISHA: KYOTO8/PIXTA

Kagurazaka, not far from Iidabashi Station, was once a part of town famous for its geisha (there are still a few to be spotted today) and cobblestone back alleys full of high-class Japanese restaurants. Lately, it’s also become a place to shop for French bread and wine. Kagurazaka is especially worth a visit on Sundays, when the main road is closed to cars from 12 to 7pm. Iidabashi, Kagurazaka Stations.

Q A

Can you go shrinehopping by bike?

Sure can

Tokyo Bike There are so many places to rent a bike in Tokyo it’s hard to keep track, but we recommend a retailer called, simply enough, Tokyo Bike.

We like their bikes and find their rates pretty reasonable (¥1,000 for a day), but most importantly, they are located in the middle of Yanesen, a portmanteau of three east-side neighbourhoods that live a laid-back, old-school Tokyo lifestyle and is home to Tokyo’s highest concentration of historical sites. Make sure to check out Nezu Shrine (tinyurl.com/TOTnezu) and Yanaka Ginza shopping district for a distinct Edo-style shopping experience. 4-2-39 Yanaka, Taito (Sendagi Station).

03 5809 0980. tinyurl.com/TOTtokyobike.

Do you need to go outside to explore the area?

Nope

There’s no getting around it: Tokyo can be pretty brutal in summer.

Ducking into a mall is one way to escape the heat while still having a walk around, and if Roppongi Hills is too sleek for your liking, there’s the surreal New Shinbashi Building, a fluorescent, smoky edifice that’s anything but new. Filled from top to bottom with bars, arcades, massage parlours and porn shops, it’s like Disneyland for salarymen. Among the weirdness there are some real finds: Gyukatsu Okada (tinyurl.com/ TOTgyukatsu), one of the basement restaurants, comes highly recommended and specialises in gyukatsu (fried beef cutlets, pictured above).

2-16-1 Shinbashi, Minato (Shinbashi Station).

Q A

Will I be sitting for extended periods?

Hai

Doing absolutely nothing for a good reason might be an oversimplified but reasonably accurate description of zazen, the Buddhist practice of sitting in an attempt to clear your head of all that past and future stuff and focus on the moment.

If you’re interested in zazen but don’t know where to start, we recommend paying a visit to Tokuun-in temple in Ueno, which holds weekly zazen sessions and provides an orientation to newcomers in English.

No charge for irregular visitors; regular members pay a monthly ¥1,000 fee. 4-1-4 Higashi-Ueno, Taito (Ueno Station). www.wgthorpe.com/zazenkai.html.

Q A

Q A

Can you go watch planes from your tent?

Yeah, believe it or not

Not only can you go camping in Tokyo, you don’t even have to travel outside the main 23 wards to do it. Welcome to Jonanjima Seaside Park Campsite, located not far from Odaiba on the east side of the city. As the name implies, it offers a seaside view and is perfect for plane geeks who can sit out by the bonfire and watch the jets from nearby Haneda Airport pass overhead. 4-2-2 Jonanjima, Ota (Omori Station). 03 3799 6402. seaside-park. jp/modules/Top_Jounan (Japanese only).

Do you get to see an epic battle between robots and dinosaurs over dinner?

Bingo

Time Out Tokyo readers are already familiar with Shinjuku’s Robot Restaurant (as is the entire population of Tokyo, actually: their roving robot trucks are pretty hard to miss). But if you haven’t been recently, it’s worth a repeat visit. They regularly tweak their choreography and add new ’bots to the mix, including a few dinosaurs.

Same old mediocre food, though.Turn to page 68 for our latest review. B2F Shinjuku Robot Bldg, 1-7-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 3200 5500. www.robot-restaurant.com/E.

Q

Are there more than 24 water slides there?

Yup

A

Looking for an impressive place to take a summertime dip? Look no further than Toshimaen, an amusement park that comes alive during summer with the opening of its waterpark, Hydropolis. It offers up attractions as varied as water slides (there are 25), Olympic-sized swimming pools, and Japanese and Western-style spas.

Surrounding the spa is a garden designed by the famous landscape artist Kenzo Kosugi, so it’s worth a visit even if you’re more into greenery than getting wet. 3-25-1 Koyama, Nerima (Toshimaen Station). 03 3990 8800. tinyurl.com/TOThydropolis.

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[50 GREAT ESCAPES & STAYCATIONS]

slow C l e v a r t

for coastline

Cyclists seeking the most serene route will want to travel the eastern coastline of the Izu Peninsula to Shimoda’s beaches. From Odawara (70 to 90 minutes from Tokyo Station), cruise 60 to 80km along the rolling coast on Manazuru Road. There are plenty of small towns along the way and in the early morning you can see the fishermen setting out for the day. There is a campsite in Shimoda or you can camp on the beach (though they say not to, plenty still do). Turn to page 75 for more cycling trails.

n 1. a reaction against the cult of speed. 2. unhurried, low-economic impact journeys that usually involve travel on land or sea rather than by aeroplane. 3. an opportunity to become part of local life and to connect to a place and its people.

I

26 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

M

for magic mountain

Just 75 minutes west of Shinjuku, you’ll find Musashi-Mitake Shrine at the top of Mt Mitake (929m), a place of worship for over 2,000 years. From there, head through the natural rock garden, past the Ayahiro Falls and finally to the summit of Mt Otake (1,267m), one of the tallest mountains in Tokyo prefecture. Finish the 12km trek (six to eight hours) in the sleepy town of Okutama and stay overnight at Hikawa Campground on the bank of the Tama River.

702 Hikawa, Okutama, Nishitama, Tokyo (Okutama Station).

0428 83 2134. www.okutamas.co.jp/hikawa/ (Japanese only).

TRAIN TRACK: PROF223389/PIXTA; MT MITAKE: NICK NARIGON

A popular day-trip destination for weary travellers looking to release stress and tension, the Enoshima Island Spa is located across the bridge from Katase-Enoshima Station, just over an hour from Tokyo. The enchanting oceanside outdoor heated pools offer an eternity-like view of Mount Fuji and the unique hot spring features mineral-rich water pumped from 1,500m below the island.

Enoshima Island Spa, 2-1-6 Enoshima, Fujisawa, Kanagawa.

0466 29 0688. www. enoshimaislandspa.com.

Slow food is a thing. And now slow travel is becoming a thing too.

Nick Narigon explores the best, soul-rejuvenating escapes via a leisurely round of I Spy

I spy with my little eye, something beginning with ...

for island spa

[50 GREAT ESCAPES & STAYCATIONS]

H

for horizon and more horizon

Nothing says slow travel like a long ferry journey. Test your mettle with the 25.5-hour ferry ride to Ogasawara Islands. The World Natural Heritage Site is home to unique ecosystems featuring a number of indigenous species and is accessible only by the regularly scheduled liner, which runs about every six days from Takeshiba Ferry Terminal. 1-16-3 Kaigan, Minato, Tokyo (Takeshiba, Hamamatsu Stations). 03 3432 8081. www.ogasawarakaiun.co.jp/english/.

S B for beer brewed by you

The homebrewing laws in Japan are strict, however there is still one way to spend a day brewing your own beer. Kiuchi Brewery in Ibaraki (about an hour from Tokyo via limited-express train) offers a Brew on Premises package. Whip up your own select beer using the same ingredients as Hitachino Nest Beer. Measure out the malts, decide how hoppy you like it and design your own label. Since the maturing process takes some time, the brewery will deliver your bottled brew to your door (Japan only).

1257 Kounosu, Naka, Ibaraki. 029 298 0105. www.kodawari.cc.

Y for surfer’s paradise

A place of respite for military expats, surfers and golfers, Reef Break Resort is about an hour from Tokyo Station and a stone’s throw from Chiba’s best beaches and golf courses. And it’s got a yurt. When owner Markus Leach was building his home, he used the Turkish-style yurt as temporary housing while waiting for permits. Able to accommodate groups of seven, the comfortable yurt has a breathtaking view of the seaside. With a private rotenburo (outdoor hot spring), barbecue area and fire pit overlooking the ocean (excellent for full-moon parties), Reef Break Resort is a slow traveller’s delight. 589 Ohara, Isumi, Chiba. 090 9392 8605. www.reefbreakresort.com.

for udon on the mount

The sanso (mountain hut) located on the peak of Mt Nabewari (1,273m) has been featured on TV Asahi as one of the top three lodges in Japan. It’s a steep, three-hour climb to the peak but the udon (noodle soup) is worth the trouble. For nearly 40 years, owner Nobutaka Kusano has made the climb every day, carrying his provisions on his back, sometimes serving his famed nabeyaki udon to 300 people a day. Though it’s literally in the middle of nowhere, accommodation reservations are recommended.

The top of Mt Nabewari, Hadano, Kanagawa (Shibusawa Station). 0463 87 3298. tinyurl.com/TOTnabewari.

MT NABEWARI: NICK NARIGON

● Yoga enthusiasts looking for a unique workshop will find a host of options at TokyoYoga Aoyama. With summer sessions ranging from Ashtanga to Hatha Yoga to Jivamukti Yoga, the studio prides itself in its homey atmosphere and experienced teachers.

5-18-6 Minami-Aoyama, Minato, Tokyo (Omotesando Station). 03 6379 1210. www.tokyo-yoga.com (Japanese only).

Featuring one of the few rope walls in Tokyo, Furla Yoga offers small class sizes (limited to 12), a boutique studio atmosphere and experienced instructors. Classes are provided in Japanese-English and they also offer pre- and postnatal lessons.

3-5-20 Kita-Aoyama, Minato, Tokyo (Omotesando Station). 080 6670 1727. www.yoga.furla.co.jp. ● YogaJaya holds a pranayama and meditation immersion class periodically throughout the year. Specifically designed for relaxation, the next session led by internationally known yoga teacher Patrick Oancia is August 4-10.

2F, 1-25-11 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya, Tokyo (Ebisu, Daikanyama Stations).

03 5784 3622. www.yogajaya.com/en/. ●

U

N

for yoga with a difference

for nerds on a train

The otaku (Japan’s ‘nerd’ subculture) are train fanatics, obsessed with bullet trains, passenger trains, cargo trains, any kind of train really. Perhaps they’re on to something. The appeal of the shinkansen is obvious (fastest trains on earth), but some local trains offer more than just transport; they provide gorgeous views of the countryside and stops in lovely little bergs that tourists regularly bypass.

Expert otaku recommend taking the first Numazu-bound train on the Tokaido line to enjoy the scenery and do some people watching. Share your travels with fishermen, students, work commuters and ojiisan (grandpas) alike.

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[50 GREAT ESCAPES & STAYCATIONS]

? t e y e r e h t e Are w Start from

Shinjuku Station

Tokyo Station

IS AS

HI M

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The closest station to Tatadohama beach in Izu is Izukyu-Shimoda Station. Getting there takes two-and-a-half hours by shinkansen and about an hour longer if you take the Tokkaido line through to Ito and then change to the local Izukyu line. Don’t be put off by the longer train ride – it’s a treat for the senses with views of the glistening sea and forestry.

UH

Ueno Station

XT A

YAS

The quickest way to get to Oarai beach in Ibaraki is to take a Super Hitachi train from Ueno Station – it takes about one hour and 40 minutes.

Otherwise, you can save money by taking the Joban line from Ueno Station to Mita and then changing to the Kashima Rinkai Testudo line – this will take around two-and-a-half to three hours depending on transfers.

I /P

You can reach Onjuku beach in roughly 90 minutes if you take the express Keiyo line train Wakashio from Tokyo Station. Otherwise, for nearly half the price, you can take local trains but this increases travel time to around two-anda-half hours – and that’s only if you don’t miss your connections. Make sure you’ve got a bento for the journey!

Most major train stations have ekiben (train bento box) stores that sell supercharged versions of the common lunchbox. Shinjuku Station’s ekiben is near the south exit and stocks a wide range of options. Get in the mood for the sea with their Anago Oshizushi (saltwater eel sushi) bento (¥720). Anago is similar in taste and texture (though less rich) to the more popular unagi (freshwater eel).

SS

Take the Shonan Shinjuku line to Zushi from Shinjuku Station and you’ll arrive in just over an hour. When most people head to Zushi Station for the beach they usually have the station’s namesake in mind as the destination, but take a short 20-minute bus ride (get off at the Sangaoka stop) to HayamaIsshiki and you’ll find a more beautiful escape.

JE

1 2 3 4

The bento

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Shinagawa Station

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Check out Tokyo Station’s EkibenyaMatsuri store (tinyurl.com/ TOTekibenya), which is located just inside the ticket gates and stocks an array of about 170 different kinds of bento from all over Tokyo.

They often invite regional bento makers to add variation to the selection. The Kani Meshi (crab rice) box (¥1,140) is ideal for a seaside trip – it’s served in a crabshaped box and features boiled crab meat with miso flavouring.

Gyudon (beef on rice) is a popular comfort fast-food in Japan. We recommend a Gyuniku Domannaka bento (¥1,150). It comes with Yamagata rice, topped with juicy beef and plenty of vegetables on the side.

It’s a good choice for meat eaters and less of a risk for those who tend to be picky eaters.

It’s a long ride so we advise tucking into a Nagoshi bento (¥1,080). Nagoshi can be translated as ‘summer passing’, which basically means managing to survive the hot summer months without too much suffering or, in traditional terms, without losing farm crops to bugs. The Nagoshi bento’s varied selection of food provides plenty of energy to power you through – with a mixture of seafood, beef, summer vegetables and a small serving of jelly.

Note: bento photos for illustrative purposes only.

28 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

[50 GREAT ESCAPES & STAYCATIONS]

Pick a station and see which beach it leads you to. William Bradbury chooses four of the best seaside spots, all pretty close to Tokyo, and throws in some bentos for the train trip, plus B&Bs for overnighters The beach

The B&B

Check out Oarai Hotel, conveniently located near Aqua World Oarai aquarium and offering you superb sunrise scenes. There are also fishing spots and a golf course nearby. Rooms from ¥9,720 with a buffet breakfast. Look forward to a banquet of seafood for dinner.

6881 Isohamacho, Oarai-machi, Higashi-Ibaraki, Ibaraki. 029 267 2151. Make a booking: travel. rakuten.com/hotelinfo/50/5950.

Just a hop-skip from the beach is Shimoda Yamatokan hotel where you’ll enjoy looking out at the white sand, waves and surfers from a Japanese-style room with tatami mats and futon beds. The rooms start at ¥8,640 including a Japanese-style breakfast, though the standard is ¥10,800 with breakfast and dinner. 2048 Kisami, Shimoda, Shizuoka. 0558 22 1000. www. shimoda-yamatokan.co.jp/english/ index.html.

SEASIDE/PIXTA CLIMB/PIXTA

UKU ONJ

AI OAR

ZENSYOU/PIXTA

The Sayan Terrace Hotel & Resort is just next to the beach and has rooms from ¥8,000 including breakfast.

Choose between Western or Japanese-style decor and try to nab a room with a sea view.

The morning fare is sandwichstyle and you can choose from a selection including seafood and ham as well as fruit and vegetables. 2163 Hama, Onjukumachi, Isumi, Chiba. 0470 68 7711. www.sayanterrace.jp.

IKI H S S A-I M A Y HA

AMA H O D TATA

UMC/PIXTA

To stay overnight, visit Shiki-Club Prego Hayama, located a few minutes from the beach and the mountains. If you’re lucky, you might catch sight of Mt Fuji from the lounge space. Rooms are available for ¥5,000, including a Western-style breakfast, or ¥8,000 including an Italian-style dinner. 2233 Isshiki Hayama-machi, Miura, Kanagawa. 03 5695 3366. www.shikiresorts.com/english/.

To get to the beach from Sangaoka bus stop, walk down a small path until the coastline appears. The discovery as you emerge on the beach from green surroundings makes the walk feel like a mini-adventure.

The beach is surrounded by rock formations and greenery, and its beauty and proximity to Tokyo make it a popular location for Tokyo-based film students.

You’ll find the beach after a mellow walk through suburbia.

Along the way, there are images of camels next to lamp posts – the reason for which (mysterious at first) becomes apparent as you near the beach and catch sight of the Tsuki No Sabaku statue of camel riders.

The statue portrays two Arabian knights on camelback as a tribute to an old song based on the beach.

There are two beaches: Oarai is pebbled, while Sun beach has a long stretch of sand.

The surrounding town is a treat for anime fans as ‘Girls und Panzer’ is set here; you can even go on a city hunt to find cutouts of characters from the show. Stay for sunset on Oarai and watch the sky glow orange beyond the rock-perched Kamiiso-noTorii (shrine gate).

From the station you can get to Tatadohama beach by taking the number 1 or 2 bus towards Tatado. Once off the bus it’s a few minutes’ walk down a wellsignposted hill. Tatadohama beach is a fine mixture of nature and seashore, and its waves make it a popular surfing spot. There’s a pleasant beachside café, hotdog stand, and hot spring and massage options nearby.

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[50 GREAT ESCAPES & STAYCATIONS]

You can’t help but feel dreamy inside Sunshine Aquarium’s ethereal jellyfish tunnel. It’s like an underwater version of Pandora, that mesmerising alien moon from ‘Avatar’. And your date doesn’t have to end here – there are plenty of nearby places to cosy up for dinner afterwards, and there’s even a planetarium in the area.

Sunshine Aquarium, 3-1-3 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima, Tokyo (Higashi-Ikebukuro, Ikebukuro Stations). 03 3989 3466. tinyurl.com/ TOTsunshineaquarium.

DON'T

On a clear night at Haimurubushi Resort on Okinawa’s Kohama Island, the beach is the best place to marvel at the star-dusted sky while listening to the sound of waves washing against the shore.

Haimurubushi Resort, 2930 Kohama, Taketomi, Yaeyama, Okinawa. 0980 85 3111. www. haimurubushi.co.jp/.

Eat before riding these roller coasters

Studies show that sexual attraction increases in shared times of danger. What better reason do you need to brave Fujiyama, the ‘King of Coasters’, and Takabisha’s beyond-vertical 121-degree drop.

Fun fact: When Takabisha opened in 2011 it gained the Guinness World Record for the steepest roller coaster made from steel. This is the 14th Guinness World Record set by Fuji-Q Highland.

Fuji-Q Highland, 5-6-1 Shin-Nishihara, Fujiyoshida, Yamanashi. www.fujiq.jp/en/.

DO

DO

Share a hammock on a private beach

Put a manly arm around her at a haunted house

Japan’s summer Bon festival, in which the dead supposedly return to visit the living, inspires all kinds of temporary haunted houses, which local couples love to frequent as an excuse to grab onto each other in the dark. It’s also a Japanese tradition to beat the heat by sending shivers down your spine. Get into the, erm, spirit at Tokyo Dome City, known for hosting a particularly scary haunt.

Tokyo Dome City, 1-3-61 Koraku, Bunkyo, Tokyo (Korakuen, Suidobashi Stations). 03 5800 9999. tinyurl.com/TOTtokyodomecity.

DO

A beautiful town a couple of hours outside Tokyo, Nikko features gorgeous temples and hiking trails.

Couples looking for some foresty foreplay should try the two-hour trek along the Senjogahara Nature Trail, which takes you through vibrant green trees to the Senjogahara plateau, where the view of red-brown fields backed by mountains is out of this world.

Afterwards, take a soak at a nearby hot spring.

Senjogahara Nature Trail, take the bus from Tobu Nikko Station for Yumoto Onsen. Get off at Ryuzu no Taki stop. tinyurl.com/TOTsenjogahara.

DON'T

HEARTS AND CROSSES How to get that lovin’ feeling.

Words Amanda Taylor

DON'T

Trip on the love stones at Jinushi Shrine

Located near Kyoto’s KiyomizuTemple, this love shrine is dedicated to the deity of love and matchmaking, and sees couples praying for luck in love. There are two love stones in front of the shrine, placed 18m apart, and if you can find your way from one to the other with your eyes closed, your wish will be granted soon. If not, then cupid’s arrow ain’t pointed your way.

Jinushi Shrine, near Kiyomizu Temple, 1-317 Kiyomizu, Higashiyama, Kyoto. tinyurl.com/ TOTkiyomizu.

30 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Re-enact ‘Twilight’ in Nikko

Get a splinter climbing a fantastical tree house

Takashi Kobayashi’s whimsical tree houses are scattered all over Japan, and make the perfect place to sneak a kiss. For a cosy lunch date, visit Kobayashi’s Hideaway Café, a natural oasis in the middle of Tokyo that’s built around a Himalayan cedar tree with earthy décor. Climb the ladder to the loft to really get that tree-house feel. The lunch set is only ¥1,000 and that includes a salad and one drink.

Hideaway Café, 3-20-1 Jingumae, Shibuya, Tokyo. www.treehouse.jp/hideaway.

DON'T

Miss out on the magic of Japan’s gardens

Rikugien in Tokyo’s Bunkyo ward is a secret world of lush trees and flowers, tranquil ponds and soothing bird calls. This traditional Japanese garden was designed and directed by Edo-period samurai Yoshiyasu Yanagisawa between 1695 and 1714, and recreates 88 beautiful landscapes from famous waka poetry anthologies such as the ‘Manyoshu’.

Enjoy the view together while sipping green tea at the teahouse right inside the garden.

Rikugien Garden, 6-16-3 Honkomagome, Bunkyo, Tokyo (Komagome Station).

NIKKO: RS53TOSHI28/PIXTA; TREEHOUSE: AMANDA TAYLOR; LOVE STONES: FUMIYUTAKA/PIXTA; GARDEN: PROF530/PIXTA

DO

Hold hands in the jellyfish tunnel

[50 GREAT ESCAPES & STAYCATIONS]

, r e p a Rock, p d r o w s

i a r u m sa Fun and games for the city-dwelling thrill seeker Words Cal Widdall FIGHT LIKE A SAMURAI The stage swordfighting experts of Shido Juku spend most of their time sharing expertise with budding actors and actresses, but basic Japanese and a fighting spirit is all you need to attend their classes.

1-6-17 Kasuya, Setagaya, Tokyo. 03 6379 7491. tinyurl. com/TOTshidojuku.

SAMURAI: ELNUR/SHUTTERSTOCK; SKYDIVERS: OLIVER NÖTHEN; WATERFALL: SHANGRILA/PIXTA

SCALE A WALL Bouldering has taken off in Tokyo over the last few years and at least a dozen gyms have gained footholds all over the city. Put your staying power to the test at Kasai’s Rocklands, one of the biggest in Japan, spread over four floors with lead climbing as well as bouldering.

5-27-16 Higashi-Kasai, Edogawa, Tokyo. 03 5659 0808. tinyurl. com/TOTrocklands.

SKATE THE ROOFS Opened in 2013, the HLNA rooftop skate park at Diver City in Odaiba gives skateboarders the chance to kickflip atop a skyscraper while taking in the view of Tokyo Bay. Rollerbladers welcome too.

7F HLNA Sky Garden, Diver City Tokyo Plaza, 1-1-10 Aomi, Koto, Tokyo. 03 5579 6991. hlna.jp/ skygarden. 10am-10pm daily. ¥400 for adults, ¥200 for 13 to 15-year-olds, free for under-12s and guardians.

waterfall to endure the cold.

155 Mitake-san, Ome, Tokyo. 0428 78 8472. tinyurl. com/TOTkomadori.

Break out Get in touch with your inner samurai

JUMP OUT OF A PLANE ABOVE MT FUJI Tokyo Skydiving Club, just a short train ride away in Saitama, offers tandem jumps with spectacular views of Tokyo and Mt Fuji – if you can keep your eyes open.

496 Yamagayato, Kawajima-machi, Hiki, Saitama. 049 297 7198. tinyurl. com/TOTskydive.

FLY LIKE A FLYING FISH The water-powered jetpacks that allow their wearers to dive and soar under and over the waves aren’t the product of Hollywood CG; they’re real and you can try one yourself in Chiba.

Booking essential.

Okinawa Beach Gang

Tokyo, Ichikawa Marina, 2-19-6 Owada, Ichikawa, Chiba. 080 3752 9500. tinyurl.com/TOTflyboard.

DRINK BEER FROM A GIANT FROG Mark Kagaya, who owns Kagaya Bar in Shimbashi, is Tokyo’s craziest barman. Choose a country off the menu and he will serve your drinks in a method that reflects your choice – though the connection possibly exists only in his head. We don’t want to ruin any other surprises for you but ‘USA’ results in Mark entering his magic cupboard and re-emerging in a giant frog costume.

B1F, 2-15-12 Shinbashi, Minato, Tokyo. 03 3591 2347. tinyurl.com/TOTkagaya.

FEEL THE EARTH MOVE Every half hour the walls of the Tokyo Earthquake Simulation Centre shake and rumble with the force of an earthquake that measures 6.2 on the Richter scale, with visitors learning exactly what to do in case of an emergency.

Bosaikan, 2-37-8 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima, Tokyo. 03 3590 6565. tinyurl.com/TOTbosaikan.

Say ohm Take the waterfall challenge

WITHSTAND A WATERFALL High in the mountains of Mitake, the Komadori Sanso lodge provides teachings on meditation and endurance as well as a warm bed for the night. After training has been undertaken and a sacred sake consumed, guests must make like monks and stand under a nearby

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 31

[50 GREAT ESCAPES & STAYCATIONS]

SUMMER SURVIVAL KIT

All the goodies and gadgets you need to breeze your way through Japan’s hellishly humid sunny season

WIND & SUN

MINT & ICE

STYLE & SENSE

Chimes for chilling

Furin wind chimes Locals believe the chiming sound of furin cools them down. Not only are they eco-friendly but these Edo Furin are made using chubuki glassblowing techniques, so each has a unique sound. ¥1,836 (Komaru Kikyo), ¥1,512 (Komaru Sanbiki Kingyo), ¥1,512 (Komaru Ajisai) Edo Furin. Shinohara Maruyoshi Furin, 4-25-10 Taito,Taito. 03 3832 0227. www.sam.hi-ho.ne.jp/ maruyosi/ (Japanese only).

For a minty fresh collar

Shirt-cooling spray Like breath spray for clothes, this menthol spritzer by Kobayashi keeps you feeling fresh. Spray it on your T-shirt, underwear or even pyjamas before dressing and when you feel a sweat coming on, you’ll also be pleasantly overcome with a minty cooling sensation. Just don’t spray directly onto your skin. ¥540 (price differs according to store) Kobayashi Shirt Cool, available at drug stores.

Neck tie with a difference

Blue is the coldest colour

A frozen moment

Cool cat

Uchiwa fan Ibasen sells elegant uchiwa (round flat fans) featuring artwork by ukiyo-e masters, giving the product an extra dose of heritage.We recommend one printed with Hiroshige’s print of the Tonegawa River, featuring the shade referred to as ‘Hiroshige blue’. ¥4,320 Ukiyo-e Edo Uchiwa (Nishikie Yamatogata) Tonegawa/ Hiroshige. Ibasen, 4-1 Nihonbashi-Kobuna cho, Chuo. 03 3664 9261. www.ibasen.com/world_wide.

Ice-making spray Trapped in a crowded room with no airconditioning?

No sweat. Just give your handkerchief or hand towel a one-second spritz of this cooling mist that turns to ice as its sprayed, and dab on your face and neck. Note that ice burn can occur if it’s applied directly to the skin. ¥562 (price differs according to store) Dokodemo Ice-Non Ice Spray, available at drug stores.

Fanning mask Summer flu? Wearing a mask borders on insane in 30-degree weather but Thanko Rare Goods has the answer.Their mouth mask is worn on top of your regular mask and its small fan makes things much less steamy, even if there is a distinct rubbery smell in the air. ¥2,130 Thanko Rare Goods USB Refreshing Mouth Mask cat design, available from www.thanko.jp/product/1406.html (Japanese only).

Shin-Suehiro Bldg. B, 3-14-8 Sotokanda, Chiyoda. 03 5297 5783

Good enough for Anna Wintour...

Squeeze to freeze

The undercover fan

The futuristic sun visor We like to think that when wearing this oversized visor we’re more Daft Punk in their Vogue spread than V. Stiviano in public-shame mode. Although, granted, the mistress of disgraced racist Donald Sterling has sparked a ‘Paparazzi Visor’ craze. As usual, the Japanese are way ahead of the curve and have been wearing the visor for years already. ¥698 (price differs according to store) UV Super Wide Sun Visor Black, available at www.amazon.jp.

Instant ice Carry this handy pack around with you until the heat becomes unbearable (or if you sprain a muscle while attempting any one of our summer adventures on page 31), then whip it out and squeeze firmly to activate its freezing effect. It stays frozen for about 20 minutes, after which you toss it out. Perhaps not the most eco-friendly of the lot, but when times are desperate… ¥101 (price differs according to store) Shunkan Reikyakuzai W, available at drug stores.

32 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Necktie cooler ‘Say, why’s your tie plugged into your computer?’ This is probably the mildest of mockings you’ll get when sporting the USB Fanning Tie by Thanko Rare Goods. But if you’re prepared to take the jibes on the chin, your literal chin will be rewarded with a gentle breeze emanating from the sneaky fan that reveals itself when you slide the tie knot down. Now, how to make the look work with a white tee. ¥3,180 Thanko Rare Goods USB Fanning Tie, available from www.raremonoshop.jp/usb-fanning-tie-3.html. Shin-Suehiro Bldg. B, 3-14-8 Sotokanda, Chiyoda. 03 5297 5783

WORDS: MASAKO MATSUZAKI AND ANNEMARIE LUCK; IMAGES: KISA TOYOSHIMA

Cooling scarf Ah, the miracle of polymers. Soak this neck scarf in water for five minutes, sling it around your neck and feel strangely cool for the next few hours. Once dry, simply soak again. This particular one won’t win you any style awards, but a quick Google search opens up a world of cooling-scarf options. ¥1,080 Kiribai cooling scarf, available at drug stores.

[50 GREAT ESCAPES & STAYCATIONS]

VS THE MOUNTAIN ARM WRESTLE

ake ugat Yats

uji Mt F

If you don’t have time to climb both, which of these rivalling mountains should you choose?

We let the arch-enemies fight for your vote. Words Amanda Taylor

A

ccording to legend, Mt Fuji was once in a bitter feud with an unnamed rival in the north of Yamanashi prefecture.

They endlessly argued over which was taller, until at last they had the gods intervene. The gods, in their infinite wisdom, lay a gutter across the two mountains’ peaks and

poured water into it, reasoning that gravity would cause the water to flow towards the shorter peak. When the water began to slide towards its snow-capped crown, Mt Fuji was naturally livid and retaliated by smashing its rival into eight separate, and shorter, peaks. The resulting chain of mountains is today

called the Yatsugatake mountain range, and though it’s not as tall as Mt Fuji, it has its charms. We’ve given these old enemies one more chance to big themselves up. See how they stack up, and you decide which one should come out on top.

WHICH HAS THE BEST VIEW?

Nakamura Keith Haring Collection

Mt Fuji: I’ve got the only view that matters.

At 3,776m high, Mt Fuji’s summit presides over sweeping views of Shizuoka and Yamanashi so awe-inspiring, especially in the golden light of sunrise, that thousands make the challenging, overnight climb to see it every year.

Yatsugatake: I’ve got eight peaks for the price of one.

Multiple views of Yamanashi can be had from Yatsugatake’s various summits, including something that’s impossible for Mt Fuji to offer: gorgeous views of Mt Fuji itself.

Mt Aka at 2,899m is the highest peak.

photo © Sakutaro Ogiwara

The museum which opened in 2007, lies at the foot of the Yatsugatake Mountain in Kobuchizawa.

Desighed by the award-winning architect Atsushi Kitagawara, it was conceived as a space to present the countless “life” energies forged from an urban city surrounded by nature.

Mt Fuji: Just follow the masses eager to see the view from my majestic summit.

Mt Fuji is well laid out for climbers so it’s unlikely you’ll get lost.

There are ten stations where you can stop to sleep, eat, shower and shop. An overnight stay at the seventh or eighth station is recommended to avoid altitude sickness. The climb can be rough, so make sure to wear flat shoes with a good grip and bring lots of water. If hiking at night to meet the sunrise, bring a lamp or flashlight. And although official climbing season is in July and August, the summit is cold, so bring warm clothes.

Yatsugatake: My trails are ten times more scenic than dull Mt Fuji’s.

Though Mt Fuji’s view is legendary, the climb is notoriously ugly. However, in the summer Yatsugatake’s hiking trails run through vibrant, green forests that smell of earth, leaves and fragrant wildflowers. You may even see a few deer or Japanese serow – a funny cross between a goat and an antelope. The southern foot of the mountain range is also surrounded by the Kiyosato highlands, whose rolling hills are dotted with restaurants, resorts and grazing animals.

Though scenic, Yatsugatake’s trails are just as demanding as Mt Fuji’s and it’s easier to get lost.

Enjoy Haring’ s vivid colors and

WHICH IS EASIEST TO ACCESS?

formes in this sublime space, and experience the expression of “the dreams and madness of humanity” throughout his works.

Information: 10249-7 Kobuchizawa-Machi, Hokuto-Shi Yamanashi 408-0044, Japan T +81(0)551 - 36 -8712 E museum@keith.jp

Mt Fuji: Start from my ‘5th Stations’.

No need to wear yourself out making the long, long, long climb from my base.

From Shinjuku, the easiest starting point to reach is Mt Fuji 5th Station, accessible by bus (three hours depending on traffic). Take the Highway Express bus to Fujisan Station, then take The Climbing Mountain Bus to Mt Fuji 5th Station.

www.nakamura-haring.com

34 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Yatsugatake: I’m only two hours from Tokyo.

From Shinjuku, catch the Chuo line’s limited express Azusa train to Chino Station. From there it’s a 40-minute bus ride to Minotoguchi, the entrance to the hiking trails.

Turn to page 81 for more on Mt Fuji.

MT FUJI: BIZAN/PIXTA; YATSUGATAKE: FUCHSIA/PIXTA; BINOCULARS: CHERKAS/PIXTA; HIKER: SERGEY NIVENS/PIXTA; SHINANO/PIXTA

WHICH IS BEST FOR HIKING?

30 YOKOHAMA L A I C E P S AGE 8-P DE GUI

N I O D O T S G N I TH

OUR SPECIAL EIGHT-PAGE GUIDE TO JAPAN’S SECOND-LARGEST CITY Explore new art

Yokohama Triennale 2014 takes over the town

Eat like a king

Start with fluffy pancakes, coconut gyoza or a legendary omelette

Promotional feature

Take a walk on the arty si Explore Yokohama through the eyes of an artist

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‘As soon as a finished work is displayed in a museum, a host of other things are forgotten: heaps of materials that went unused, stacks of failed works of art that go unseen. Out of sight, out of mind, they are set adrift on the sea of oblivion.

Let us explore the rubbish bin,’ says Michael Landy, creator of ‘Art Bin’. – Intro

LOCAL INSIGHT

ACCOMPLISHMENT

artists will showcase their video work in various unpredictable locations across the city. Be prepared to be surprised.

6 Find ASIA An artist-produced café and lounge, opening for a limited time inside the Yokohama Creativecity Center (YCC) for visitors to engage and view the works of artists from Japan, China, Korea and other countries. Artwork includes new pieces created by the artists during their stay.

Yokohama Creativecity Center (YCC), 6-50-1 Honcho, Naka.

Picking up the meaning of the ‘silence and whispers’ in Chapter 1 may be quite a challenge, but finally finding the message hidden in abstract works like Vija Celmins’ ‘Hand Holding a Firing Gun’ will surely feel satisfying. – Chapter 1

DESPERATION

Art has faced challenges to its existence throughout history, and works such as Eric Baudelaire’s film ‘The Ugly One’ remind us of some of those dark days. However, there just might be some light at the end of the tunnel…

– Chapter 3

INSPIRATION

Discover the attraction of subjects like philosophy and astronomy at the Kama Gei lectures, and see how art and education have brought new life to this declining part of Osaka.

– Chapter 2

SADNESS

Working long years without reward, often criticised and never fully understood: see the darker side of artistic life portrayed in art like Michio Fukuoka’s 1966 sculpture ‘Why Did I Ever Fly?’. – Chapter 4

AWE

Take a break and travel into an alternate dimension at the museum café, where Anju Mishima and his mother Ritsue have forged a mysterious harmony of light and glass in ‘Blue Crystal’. – Chapter 7

CURIOSITY

Find out how Hokkaido’s Sapporo International Art Festival and the Yokohama Triennale are connected at this collaborative event, based on the theme of ‘City and Nature’. – Chapter 9

CONFUSION

Make your own connections between the pieces at this collection of surreal and thought-provoking work, created by playful artists looking to go beyond the ordinary. In this chapter, Chie Matsui’s art will gradually grow into an installation as one new piece is added every day.

SOLITUDE – Chapter 6 Wandering through this giant plastic courtroom is a sobering experience, and may even be a little daunting. Luckily there’s no judge presiding so you can simply enjoy the emptiness.

– Chapter 5

INDIVIDUALISM

Whether witnessing the essential elements of theatre rearranged

by Akira Takayama or perusing the photographs of Hitoshi Toyoda presented as slideshows rather than in print, you’ll feel an urge to defy convention and be your own person. – Chapter 8

SURPRISE

You’ll never guess what’s taking place at the Shinko Pier Exhibition Hall, where the Yokohama Triennale meets the Fukuoka Asian Art Triennale. Which one did you come to see again? – Chapter 10

FULFILMENT

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Art

You’ve reached the end of the journey and you’ve come face to face with the ‘sea of oblivion’. It’s time to make sense of it all, like in Shinro Ohtake’s collage of mediums and images that together form one coherent message.

Sounds easy enough, right? – Chapter 11

Indulge in the emotional landscape of YOKOHAMA TRIENNALE 2014 Divided into an intro and 11 chapters, the art festival traverses a world full of feeling

INTRO: MICHAEL LANDY, ‘ART BIN’, 2010 INSTALLATION VIEW AT SOUTH LONDON GALLERY; CHAPTER 1: VIJA CELMINS, ‘HAND HOLDING A FIRING GUN’, 1964 COLLECTION OF JOAN AND JACK QUINN, BEVERLY HILLS, CA. COURTESY OF MCKEE GALLERY; CHAPTER 2: KAMA GEI, PAINTING CLASS; CHAPTER 3: ERIC BAUDELAIRE, ‘THE UGLY ONE’, 2013; CHAPTER 4: FUKUOKA MICHIO, ‘WHY DID I EVER FLY?’, 1965-66, PHOTO: FUKUNAGA KAZUO; CHAPTER 5: ‘MODEL FOR TURN COAT/TURN COURT: CONSTITUTION – CONSTELLATION’, 2014, PHOTO: SATORU TAKAHASHI; CHAPTER 6: MATSUI CHIE, FROM ‘MS. PAPER’, 2013; CHAPTER 7: MISHIMA ANJU + MISHIMA RITSUE, MISHIMA ANJU, ‘BLUE CRYSTAL’, 2014, PHOTO: ICHIKAWA YASUSHI; CHAPTER 8: TOYODA HITOSHI, FROM ‘WHITE MOON’, 2010; CHAPTER 11: OHTAKE SHINRO, ‘CONCEPT IMAGE’, 2014, © SHINRO OHTAKE COURTESY OF TAKE NINAGAWA, TOKYO

de

AT YOKOHAMA TRIENNALE 2014, YOU MAY FEEL...

[30 THINGS TO DO IN YOKOHAMA]

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Entertainment

JUMP INTO 3D NATURE

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BBC Earth’s powerful images and Sega’s cutting-edge technology come together to give you the chance to experience the wonder of the wild with all your senses. You can even smell the life-sized projected animals you’ll be interacting with. Orbi Yokohama, 5F Mark Is Minatomirai, 3-5-1 Minato Mirai, Nishi.

Sightseeing

BURN INCENSE FOR PROSPERITY A hallmark of Yokohama’s Chinatown, this temple is dedicated to Guan Yu, a god of good fortune, and notable for its extravagant ornamentation and colours. If you’re lucky enough to be there while a votive ceremony is happening, take part by placing incense sticks one at a time in the five incense burners.

Kanteibyo, 140 Yamashitacho, Naka.

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005 Shopping

GO ON A VINTAGE TREASURE HUNT

Inspired by America’s antique malls, this gathering of eclectic stalls serves up a range of vintage collectables, retro toys and other curious finds. Yokohama Collectors Mall, M1F Silk Center, 1 Yamashitacho, Naka.

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BROWSE A QUIRKY BOOKSTORE

An art gallery cum bookstore in the oldfashioned Yamamotocho shopping quarter, Greenpoint Books & Things is housed in a remodelled camera shop and stocks secondhand books themed on travel and cooking as well as their original pancake mix. Greenpoint Books & Things, 1-7 Yamamotocho, Naka.

Restaurant

SHARE SEAFOOD, MEET THE LOCALS

They’ve got the edge when it comes to seafood, offering only the freshest straight from the markets, and at incredible prices to boot. Just five minutes from Yokohama Station, this lively spot gets packed with friendly locals at the weekend. Maru-u Shoten, 2-5-14 Takashima, Nishi.

Shopping

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Restaurant

EAT PANCAKES ALL DAY

For breakfast, lunch or dinner – you can have your pancakes when and how you like here. They’re always perfectly fluffy and prepared with choice ingredients, and if you can’t decide on savoury or sweet, how about roast beef for your main and ice cream for dessert. Pancake Ristorante, 87-4 Yamashitacho, Naka.

38 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

008

Sightseeing

TOUCH A WHALE At this ‘leisure land’ consisting of an amusement park and aquarium, you can see more than 100,000 creatures at the Aquamuseum and touch marine animals like white whales at the Contact Lagoon. As the name says, sea paradise. Yokohama Hakkeijima Sea Paradise, Hakkeijima, Kanazawa.

[30 THINGS TO DO IN YOKOHAMA]

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Restaurant

DIVE INTO THE JAZZ SCENE

With its rich reference to the old and new, Japanese jazz has evolved into a genre of its own.

This is the best venue to catch live gigs featuring both aspiring and big-name musicians.

Motion Blue Yokohama, 3F Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse, 1-1-2 Shinko, Naka.

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Shopping

DEVOUR THE BEST GYOZA IN TOWN

COLLECTORS MALL, SEAFOOD: KISA TOYOSHIMA; BOOKSTORE: KEISUKE TANIGAWA; PANCAKE, GYOZA, TEA: YASUHISA SHIMBO

Welcome to boiled gyoza like you’ve never had before.

The chewy homemade dough is packed with juicy meat and smothered with a special coconut-based sauce.

Best eaten in one big tastebud-tittilating mouthful.

Shandong, 150 Yamashitacho, Naka.

See the beauty in factories. No, really You may not think a cruise through an industrial zone would warrant any attention, but come night-time and the cranes, powerplants and factories are illuminated like a ‘castle of lights’ while your boat weaves through them down mysterious, narrow canals. Factory Night View Adventure Cruise, reservedcruise.com/adventure/index.php

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Sightseeing

KICK BACK WITH AN ELEPHANT-TRUNK ICE CREAM Zou-no-hana translates as ‘elephant’s trunk’ and, accordingly, this park – which offers a splendid ocean view – is dotted with art and statuettes representing the big-eared mammal. You can even buy an ‘Elephant Trunk Soft Ice Cream’ which comes with waffles for ears.

Zou-no-hana Park, 1 Kaigandori, Naka.

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Art

SEE WORLDS COLLIDE THROUGH ART

Yokohama is the birthplace of Japanese photography so it’s fitting this art museum holds a substantial photo collection. This art-enthusiast hotspot serves as the main venue for Yokohama Triennale 2014 and displays works showing an interplay of European and Japanese modern art. Yokohama Museum of Art, 3-4-1 Minato Mirai, Nishi.

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Shopping

SNACK WHILE THE KIDS PLAY

The Lawson ‘combini’ chain takes convenience to new levels with this concept shop that caters to parents. Alongside the usual food-and-drink line-up, you’ll find a unique range of Dick Bruna products, locally produced snacks and a café with play area for kids. Happy Lawson Yamashita Koen branch, 279 Yamashitacho, Naka.

Café

WATCH A FLOWER BLOOM IN YOUR GLASS

Head to Chinatown and nip up to the second floor of this teahouse for Chinese tea and desserts. Order the Higawari Zokeicha and watch as the bundle of tea leaves transforms into a blooming flower as you pour hot water over it. Monkey-Magic Teahouse Chaso, 130 Yamashitacho, Naka.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 39

[30 THINGS TO DO IN YOKOHAMA]

015

Sightseeing

PARK OFF IN A HISTORIC GARDEN

We have silk trader Sankei Hara to thank for this beautiful traditional Japanese garden built in 1906. Besides pretty ponds and paths, it features precious historic buildings, including a three-storey pagoda from Kyoto and a daimyo’s (military lord) house, and it stays open until dark during cherry blossomand firefly-viewing seasons. Sankei-en, 58-1 Honmoku-Sannotani, Naka.

Museum

FEEL LIKE A KID AGAIN

Find your dream model train right here amidst the world’s biggest train diorama. The cars, built by Nobutaro Hara, are faithfully reproduced down to the interior details, draw electricity from overhead wires, and run on iron rails with iron wheels so they even sound like the real thing. Hara Model Railway Museum, 1-1-2 Takashima, Nishi.

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Museum

CUSTOMISE YOUR CUP NOODLES

Instant noodles are big in Japan and at this interactive museum you get to learn about the curious mind who came up with them as well as eat, touch, play and create your own recipe at My Cupnoodles Factory. Cupnoodle Museum, 2-3-4 Shinko, Naka.

Restaurant

START YOUR DAY WITH A LEGENDARY OMELETTE

The Yokohama branch of Mont Saint-Michel’s La Mère Poulard is perhaps best known for its gloriously sized souffle omelette that’s so soft and airy it looks like it might deflate once you slide your knife into it. (It doesn’t.) La Mère Poulard Yokohama Minato Mirai branch, 4F Mark Is Minatomirai, 3-5-1 Minato Mirai, Nishi.

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Bar

WINE, DINE AND STROKE A KITTEN

Ease into the evening at this charming riverside wine bar that’s great for couples or singles (there are only six seats!). Choose your favourite wine from their vast selection, try their home-made shumai dumplings and enjoy the company of the resident kitty, Papiko.

Cyama, 1-4-5 Okanocho, Nishi.

40 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Cycle, don’t walk Yokohama is a great city to explore by foot but hiring a bicycle will help you see more, do more. Hop on your Baybike for easy exploring around the Minato Mirai and Kannai areas. Yokohama Baybike, docomo-cycle.jp/ yokohama/

020

Shopping

GO BACK IN BRITISH TIME A wonderfully curated collection of quintessentially British clothing makes up Rising Sun, which stocks a vast range of rock-influenced vintage clothing from the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s.

Rising Sun, B1F Kaiyokaikan, 1-1 Kaigan-dori, Naka.

021

Shopping

PACK A DELI PICNIC Since 1913, this butchery and deli has been offering top quality chicken, delivered fresh each morning, along with delicious ready-cooked dishes including yakitori (chicken skewers) and karage (deep-fried chicken).

Umeya Honten, 6-3 Yoshidamachi, Naka.

VINTAGE SHOP: REIKO KUWABARA; SUSHI: KISA TOYOSHIMA

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[30 THINGS TO DO IN YOKOHAMA]

022 BUY A LIMITED-EDITION Sightseeing

024

HELLO KITTY CHARM

Yokohama is particularly proud of its main shrine, which is known as ‘Kanto’s Ise Shrine’ thanks to its connection the famous Ise Grand Shrine in Mie prefecture. The main building is constructed in shinmei-zukuri, the oldest Japanese architectural style still in existence, and is especially popular in spring when cherry blossoms line its entrance. Look out for souvenir charms featuring Hello Kitty in a sailor suit, sold to commemorate the 150-year anniversary of the opening of the Port of Yokohama. Iseyama-Koutaijingu, 64 Miyazakicho, Nishi.

023 EXPERIENCE A CITY Spa

HOT SPRING

If you can’t manage to get away for an onsen retreat, a trip to this mega spa is a good second best. Enjoy the indulgence of the Yugawara Onsen as well as massage treatments, a restaurant with a fantastic city view, and a choice of hotel rooms should you wish to stay the night.

Yokohama Minato Mirai Manyo Club, 2-7-1, Shinko, Naka.

Tour the bay on a punny boat The Sea Bass (that’s a play on ‘bus’ in case you didn’t get it) cruises the bay daily, connecting Yokohama Station, Minato Mirai, Red Brick Warehouse and Yamashita Park. Boarding fee varies depending on the distance of your travel. Sea Bass Yamashita Koen Pier, yokohama-cruising.jp/html/seabass.html

Restaurant

FALL FOR ONEOF-A-KIND DUMPLINGS

Everyone loves dumplings, and Kiyoken’s shumai (steamed meat dumplings) will take that love to the next level with its interesting, experimental flavours.

Grab a shumai bento for a picnic lunch.

Kiyoken Main Store, 2-13-12 Takashima, Nishi.

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Restaurant

SAY GOOD MORN WITH SUSHI It may not be as big as Tsukiji Fish Market but you can still find excellent quality sushi at Yokohama City Central Wholesale Market. Stop by Sagamiya for breakfast (or lunch or dinner) and get served sushi piece by piece – the faster you eat, the faster they serve. Sagamiya, 1-1 Yamanouchicho, Kanagawa

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 41

[30 THINGS TO DO IN YOKOHAMA]

026

Bar

HAVE A DRINK AT A RIVERSIDE ‘ROW HOUSE’

Also known as ‘harmonica alley’, this row-house style of stalls was created to tidy up and prettify the city’s scattered vendors ahead of the 1964 Tokyo Olympic Games. Located on the Ooka River and home to about 60 Japanese-style pubs and snack bars, it’s a great spot for evening meet-ups. Miyakobashi Shopping Street, 1 Miyagawacho, Naka.

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Bar

SIP A WORLDCHAMP COCKTAIL

Owner and bartender Takafumi Yamada earned his stripes by winning the 2011 World Cocktail Championship, and he puts his talents to good use at his elegant bar. If for you the proof is in the pudding, try the drink that brought him acclaim: the Great Sunrise. Bar Noble, 2-7 Yoshidamachi, Naka.

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Sightseeing

GAZE OUT FROM A SHIP-DECK ROOFTOP

Passenger ships arrive and depart from this international port, but the real reason to visit is the sweeping view of Minato Mirai, the city’s seaside urban area. The rooftop is designed to look like a ship’s deck and invites you to linger longer with wooden pathways and grassy areas. Port of Yokohama Osanbashi International Passenger Terminal, 1 Kaigan-dori, Naka.

Art

GET SOME OCEAN INSPIRATION

A former Nippon Yusen dockside warehouse, this arts and culture centre retains the building’s original interior and complements its events and exhibitions with a lovely open-air terrace and ocean view at its first-floor BankART pub. BankART 1929, 3-9 Kaigan-dori, Naka.

Restaurant

FEEL THE PAST, EAT THE PRESENT

Stained glass windows, modern tatami and French cuisine – Mutekiro’s interesting mix of themes hints at a bygone time when Japan first opened its arms to the Western world, while embracing a contemporary atmosphere. Mutekiro, 2-96 Motomachi, Naka.

42 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

SHOPPING STREET: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

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Eating & Drinking Amazing dates

THE ROMANTIC DATE Sample local cuisine in the traditional setting of Sekishin-tei Not only will you be right in the middle of a 400-year-old Japanese garden (think quaint bridges, tall trees, pretty ponds), you’ll also get to experience a thoroughly entertaining traditional teppanyaki meal, where your food (we recommend the Kobe beef) is expertly cooked on a steaming grill before your eyes. Quality and service is never sacrificed, and the fact the restaurant is inside the grounds of the Hotel New Otani means you can take a romantic stroll around the 10-acre garden after dinner. 4-1 Kioicho, Chiyoda (Nagatacho, Akasaka-Mitsuke, Koji-machi, Yotsuya Stations). 03 3238 0024. tinyurl.com/ TOTseikishin-tei. Lunch 11.30am-2pm (until 3pm on weekends and holidays), dinner 6pm-9pm.

44 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

WORDS: FRANCES BRITTLE-MATSUKI

Eating & Drinking

Whether you’re out to impress your crush, rekindle a spark or just match dinner with a fabulous view, these summer date spots will make your night

WHERE TO MEET YOUR SUMMER FLING Three top pick-up spots

FOR CREATIVE TYPES: FUGLEN TOKYO Always buzzing with new people from a variety of backgrounds, Fuglen Tokyo mixes up personalities like its cocktail menu, which transforms along with the seasons.

Located in a quiet backstreet of Yogogi, they’re now into their second year and continue to attract those who like to sip their craft beer on a retro-style chair surrounded by ’50s vintage wallpaper. 1-16-11 Tomigaya, Shibuya (Yoyogi Koen Station). 03 3481 0884. www.fuglen.com.

Opening hours vary; check website for details.

THE SLICK DATE Impress with sleek decor and city views at Two Rooms Meeting up for after-work drinks?

Join the good-looking crowd at this modernist grill and bar that boasts an unbelievable, almost 360-degree view of the city. Choose from a comprehensive range of international wines – all of which are on display in the cellar – and a selection of fusion dishes.

5F AO Building, 3-11-7 Kita-Aoyama, Minato (Omotesando Station). 03 3498 0002. www.tworooms.jp/en/.

Lunch 11.30am-2.30pm, dinner 6pm-10pm (until 9pm on Sundays).

THE UPBEAT DATE Swap pasta plates to a live DJ at Ucess the Lounge You may be dining in a semi-formal Italian restaurant, but this venue is anything but stuffy. They plan DJ events throughout the month, giving the restaurant a bar/lounge atmosphere and encouraging a spontaneous extended evening of flirtation to round off your delicious ‘soy sauce butter peperoncino mushroom’ pasta. Check their website for their monthly party schedule. 5F 4-32-13 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku, Meiji-jingumae Stations). 03 6807 1588. www.ucess.jp.

6pm-12am daily.

FOR TWINKLE-INTHE-EYE TYPES: BAR TRENCH If you have any inhibitions chatting up strangers, Bar Trench provides Dutch courage in the form of absinthe, their speciality tipple. Needless to say, their alcohol collection is impressive (and reasonably priced) and if you need help choosing what to drink, just tell the very knowledgeable bartender what mood you’re in and he’ll recommend a spirit to match. This is one of those special hideaways that you’ll leave feeling like you just escaped the world for a few hours, and like you can’t wait to go back. 102 DIS Bldg, 1-5-8 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya.

03 3780 5291. www.small-axe.net. 7pm-2am (last order), closed Sun and pub hol.

FOR ROCK ’N’ ROLL TYPES: TATEMICHIYA It’s not just a rumour; the owner of Tatemichiya really did used to play in a punk-rock band. So it’s no surprise his restaurant has been nicknamed ‘The Rock ’n’ Roll Izakaya’. Take up a seat at the bar counter and enjoy sake with tasty traditional Japanese dishes like yakitori, sashimi and sizzling avocado. The smoky, bouncy atmosphere makes mingling easy and fluid. B1F 30-8 Sarugakucho, Shibuya (Daikanyama Station). 03 5459 3431. tinyurl.com/TOTtatemichiya. 6pm-3am, until midnight on Sat, Sun and pub hol.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 45

Eating & Drinking

THE CASUAL DATE Mix cocktails and sandwiches at King George Fulfil your to-die-for sandwich cravings and perfect-cocktail quest all in one at King George. This relaxed cafébar, whose owner is a ‘mixsultant’, opened last year and features a sneaky rooftop terrace that not many people know about – yet. Perfect for summer lovebirds who want to keep things chatty and fun. 2F 11-13 Daikanyama, Shibuya (Daikanyama Station). 03 6277 5734. www. crownedcat.com. Opening hours vary; check website for details.

Eating & Drinking VISIT NIIGATA

via Nihonbashi Hakkaisan Sennen Kojiya Niigata prefecture’s Uonuma is home to some of the finest rice in all of Japan, and also produces pungent but tasty fermented foodstuffs. All these local specialities are available at this dedicated shop, which opened inside Coredo Muromachi 2 in March. 1F Coredo Muromachi 2, 2-3-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo (Nihonbashi Station). 03 6262 3188. www.sennen-koujiya.jp (Japanese only). 10am-11pm daily. via Hokkaido Dosanko Plaza From seafood, dairy products and its famous Royce Potato Chip Chocolate, this shop takes full advantage of Hokkaido’s rich feast of delicacies. Make sure to grab a soft serve cone of vanilla and melon ice cream while here. 2-10-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda (Yurakucho Station). 03 5224 3800. www.dosanko-plaza.jp (Japanese only).

10am-8pm daily.

VISIT OSAKA

via Osaka Hyakkaten Known as the city where you ‘eat till you drop’, Osaka Hyakkaten has a lot to offer in terms of local foods and cheap eats. And it’s not only about the takoyakis and okonomiyakis; this shop also offers lesser-known Japanese favourites such as pork buns, Kokyu-choco (tiramisu chocolate) and Mangetsupon rice crackers. 1F Kotsukaikan, 2-10-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda (Yurakucho Station). 03 5220 1333. www.osaka-hyakkaten.jp (Japanese only).

10am-10pm daily (until 8pm on Sun & hols).

VISIT AOMORI

via Towada no Shokutaku The northern prefecture of Aomori is famous for its apples, but you’ll find a far wider range of fresh produce on sale at this grocery shop, all of it shipped direct from the city of Towada. 3-1-10 Kaminoge, Setagaya (Kaminoge Station). 03 5760 1084. www.tokyo-towada.net/towada/ (Japanese only). 11am-7pm daily. Closed Wed. 46 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

TRAVEL JAP WITHOUT LEAVING TOK Visit these antenna shops, which offer local specialities from different prefectures around the country, and let your sense of taste be your vehicle from north to south.

Words Reiko Kuwabara

VISIT KYOTO

via Kyotokan Sorry, no temples and shrines here, but you will find tea ceremonies, traditional crafts, pickles, fine sake and seasonal events that give you a glimpse of life in Kyoto. If you do plan to visit Kyoto, stop by the information centre inside the store as it offers everything you need to know about the ancient capital.

For souvenirs, check out their silk shibori scarves and the pretty photostand. 1F Yanmar Tokyo Building, 2-1-1 Yaesu, Chuo (Tokyo Station). 03 5204 2260. www.kyotokan.jp. 10.30am-7pm daily.

IMAGES: KISA TOYOSHIMA

Eating & Drinking

VISIT HOKKAIDO

VISIT HIROSHIMA

via Tau Setouchi Hiroshima This four-storey building houses a grocery, sake shop, Japanese restaurant and Italian restaurant, as well as a Hiroshima okonomiyaki restaurant. Moreover, it features Kumanofude’s ‘beauty brush’ speciality shop, which carries an impressive range of over 400 types of brushes, mainly for applying make-up but also for calligraphy.

Pick up a box of Andersen lemon cake as a gift or teatime treat.

1-6-10 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03 5579 9952. www.tauhiroshima.jp. 10.30am-8pm (times vary between restaurants and shops).

VISIT KAGAWA

Find traditional crafts with a modern edge, from around Japan, at online shop Rooms Jibasan

FROM FUKUSHIMA: Shirakawa daruma This much-loved Japanese doll is a symbol of good fortune and originates in the Edo period. It comes in various sizes and contemporary colours such as pink, blue, yellow, white and metallic gold. Paint the left eye to make a wish and then the right eye after your wish has been granted.

Small ¥864, medium ¥1,620.

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VISIT KUMAMOTO

via Ginza Kumamotokan Can’t get enough of Kumamon? The Kumamoto Plaza is the place to go for the best selection of merchandise related to the prefecture’s mascot as well as for Kumamoto speciality products. There’s even a shochu bar on the second floor.

5-3-16 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03 3572 1147. www. kumamotokan.or.jp (Japanese only). 11am-8pm. Closed Mon.

VISIT OKINAWA

via Ginza Washita With its bright red-roofed entrance, topped with a shisa (lion-dog statue), Ginza Washita is hard to miss. Housing Okinawan music, foods and crafts, this shop is a haven for fans of the southern islands who can’t make a trip out there as often as they’d like to. The basement stocks awamori (Okinawa’s answer to shochu) and houses a little parlour area (and we do mean little) serving ice cream and particularly scrumptious Sata-andagi doughnuts.

1-3-9 Ginza, Chuo (Yurakucho Station). 03 3535 6991. www.washita.co.jp/info/shop/ginza/ (Japanese only). 10.30am-8pm daily.

FROM ISHIKAWA: Wazahonpo maneki neko You’re sure to have seen one of these ‘cat dolls’ around Tokyo. Like the daruma, maneki neko is believed to bring good luck and is often placed near the entrance of shops and restaurants. Specialising in Kutani ware (Japanese porcelain), long-established Wazahonpo has given the feline a makeover with decorative 3D surfaces, hand-finished by skilled craftsmen. ¥5,400 per set.

FROM YAMANASHI: Kichijitsu Goshuin notebook This notebook is for collecting goshuin, the traditional stamps given out at temples and shrines. Unlike the regular goshuincollector’s notebook sold at temples and shrines, Kichijitsu’s ones come in bright colours with eye-catching motifs – which means you might want to buy an extra to use as an everyday notebook. ¥2,160.

Rooms Jibasan was founded in 2012

by Rooms Trade Show (organised by H.P.France) to promote traditional crafts and handmade ware, mainly from Japan.You can purchase products online at www.hpfmall. com (search for ‘rooms department’).

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 47

Eating & Drinking

via Kagawa-Ehime Setouchi Shunsaikan A joint project between Kagawa and Ehime prefectures in the Shikoku region. The ground floor is devoted to local foods and products and offers Kagawa speciality Sanuki udon and lacquerware, as well as Ehime’s jakoten (deep-fried fish paste) and tobe-yaki (pottery). We highly recommend Shodoshima’s olives, Rakuren coffee and white miso from Nakaya Miso. 2-19-10 Shinbashi, Minato (Shinbashi Station).

03 3574 7792. www.setouchi-shunsaikan.com/contents/ (Japanese only).

10am-8pm daily (time varies between restaurants).

AND NOW FOR THE SOUVENIRS

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Beams me up

LOCAL INSIGHT

Elevate your lifestyle with some quintessentially Japanese crafts and clothing

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eams is where contemporary and traditional cultures co-exist in Japan. This hugely influential fashion retailer plays an essential role in shaping Japanese youth culture, and yet it doesn’t neglect age-old crafts. Its range of impressive folk crafts provides a wonderful overview of Japan-made products and includes

high-quality and beautifully designed teacups, teapots, plates, cutlery and chopsticks.

We especially love the exquisite pieces designed by the late Sori Yanagi, who pioneered modern design in Japan after World War II. (His works can also be found as permanent exhibits at art museums around the world, including MoMA.)

Traditional

Beams also pays careful attention to contemporary products made in Japan as well as modern artworks. It’s a space where you can explore both past and present neatly presented through the eyes of the lifestyle professionals. To give you a starting point, we went along to the store and selected our top ten most coveted items.

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Can you feel that craftsmanship?

Ohara Bunpei Lacquerware Soup Bowl

Delicate like flowers Keijusha Card Case

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Inspired by Japan and Africa Fennica Hand Towel

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Cutlery for name-dropping Sori Yanagi Coffee Spoon, Teaspoon, Fork

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Fennica Hand Towel ¥1,000 After receiving a collaboration request from Natoriya Dyeing Factory in Sendai, Miyagi prefecture, Fennica’s directors Terry Ellis and Keiko Kitamura produced these hand towels together with Natoriya (established in 1902). They drew on Sendai’s traditional technique of stencil dyeing and threw in an African batik- inspired pattern.

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Poter x B Jirushi Yoshida Pouch ¥13,500 This patent leather pouch is part of a new line by B Jirushi Yoshida called ‘Louvre’ – hence the triangle shape. Big enough to hold your necessities, small enough that it won’t get in the way. It comes in black, brown, grey and wine red, and can also be transformed into a square-shaped pouch.

Tamura Kiln Mug

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Keijusha Card Case ¥1,500 This colourful card case is made from washi (traditional Japanese paper), using the traditional technique of making and dyeing paper that the old town of Yatsuo was famed for (in 2005, Yatsuo merged into the city of Toyama). Keijusha is one of the top washi producers in the region so you know you’re getting the best of the best.

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Porter x Beams Hat ¥9,000 Here’s a new way to wear Milton Glaser’s iconic I ♥ NY logo. The quirky hat was born from a collaboration between Beams and Porter. Since launching in 1962, Porter has become known for developing original materials to produce longlasting, quality products.

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Ohara Bunpei Lacquerware Soup Bowl ¥14,000 This expertly crafted soup bowl is by Ohara Bunpei Lacquerware, established over 100 years ago in Yamanaka, Ishikawa prefecture. Combining tradition and function, the bowl features shudamenuri (vermillion lacquering) and itomebiki (line-marking) techniques while blending into modern lacquerware designs.

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Beams Portable Ashtray ¥1,500 No more searching around for a public smoking stand. Simply whip out this portable ashtray and light up wherever you are. Made from stainless steel from Tsubame, a city in Niigata prefecture that’s known for exceptional craftsmanship, it’s durable and also comes in green and blue.

WORDS: HIDETAKA FURUYA. IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

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The warmest coffee cup

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Carry the Louvre on your arm

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Poter x B Jirushi Yoshida Pouch

Reinventing the iconic I ♥ NY logo Porter x Beams Hat

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FENNICA One of the Beams labels, Fennica was launched in 2003 with the aim of combining craft and design.

The brand sources only the most authentic and top-quality products from all over the world, primarily from Japan and Scandinavian countries, appealing to different tastes and ages. Fennica seeks to present a universal style without following trends, and to enrich customers’ lives with elegance. International Gallery Beams, 2F, 3-25-15 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 3470 3948.

Keeping the city clean and colourful Beams Portable Ashtray

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When manga and mobile games collide Puzzle & Dragons x Mangart Beams T-shirt

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Three cities, one design

Modern

Beams IC Card Case

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Sori Yanagi Coffee Spoon, Teaspoon, Fork ¥1,900, ¥2,000, ¥2,300 respectively Who wouldn’t love to pull out a set of cutlery and casually name-drop Sori Yanagi? The legendary Japanese designer (remember the Butterfly Stool?) put his unique stamp on this wood-andstainless steel utensil collection, giving it a sense of everyday luxury and making it perfect for both casual and formal occasions.

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Puzzle & Dragons x Mangart Beams T-shirt ¥4,200 Mangart Beams T is a manga and art-oriented project for Beams T, a T-shirt label based on the theme ‘Art for Every Day’. ‘Puzzle & Dragons’ (P&D) is a Japanese smartphone game. This tee is what happens when the two come together in a design by the Wonderful! Design Works team.

BEAMS T Operated by Beams and founded in 2002, this label aims to express art in everyday life by using the humble T-shirt as a canvas. Watch out for the frequent exhibition hosted by the Beams T Harajuku store, where you’ll get a chance to mingle with the artists. Beams T Harajuku, 1F, 3-25-15 Jingumae, Shibuya.

03 3470 8601.

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Tamura Kiln Mug ¥1,350 Blending traditional craftsmanship with modernceramics paintwork, this modest-looking mug exudes warmth. It’ll undoubtedly be the first mug you reach for when pouring that morning cuppa. Its creators are the owners of Tamura Kiln, Masatoshi and Maiko Tamura, who honed their skills at Yomitanzanyaki Kitagama in Okinawa prefecture.

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Beams IC Card Case ¥2,400 Not one for adding bling to your bag? This 3D-design card case will keep your Suica travel card swipe-ready but in a more discreet fashion than the diamante-encrusted kind. Inspired by Tokyo, New York and London, its design elements are meant to represent each city.

BEAMS Established in 1976, Beams is one of the leading retailers in Japan. Calling itself a ‘happy life solution company’, it is a driving force behind the country’s fashion culture, introducing important fashion/lifestyle brands from both Japan and the rest of the world. Its product range crosses over from clothing into miscellaneous goods, interior accessories, music and art. Currently, Beams has approx. 140 stores across Japan and 15 between Taipei, Hong Kong, Beijing and Shanghai.

Shopping & Style Traveller extraordinaire They say life is a journey, not a destination. Which is why it’s important to kit yourself out for the ride. Words Kyoko Ishima

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Shopping & Style

hat tired suitcase that limps along next to you on your travels is killing your vibe.

Dealing with an aching neck from trying to sleep on the plane is passé. And if you don’t have a classy luggage tag by now, well, let’s just say you are more Steve Carell than Ryan Gosling in ‘Crazy, Stupid, Love’. Up the style of your holiday look and luggage by taking advantage of Tokyo’s most unique travel-themed stores. Who says you can’t turn heads in an airport?

Shop on the go

Get practical TRAVELER’S FACTORY A stationery shop housing everyday goods inspired by the theme of travel. Set in the building of a former paper processing factory, Traveler’s Factory offers stationery, books and certain products that you can customise, including its best-selling Traveler’s notebook, which encourages the user to plan ahead and start something new. The space upstairs is used to host special events and workshops once a month. If you don’t have time to drop by their standalone shop in Nakameguro before bidding bon voyage, the good news is their much-awaited branch at Narita International Airport Terminal 1 opens in July.

3-13-10 Kami-Meguro, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). 03 6412 7830. www. travelers-factory.com. 12-8pm. Closed Tue.

STANDBY TOKYO

Opened in March 2014 inside Tokyo Station, this café and store is great for a pitstop, giving you the chance to do a bit of shopping and then relax with a cup of coffee.

Targeting tourists and those on business trips, Standby Tokyo focuses on travel goods and souvenirs.

If you’re looking for a gift, choose from Klean Kanteen tumblers, a range of Traveney and Travelife products, and Japanese sweets from Tokyo Campanella. The café serves delicious coffee from Sarutahiko and hosts photographic exhibitions curated by Popeye Camera.

Free Wi-Fi and use of iPad minis are also available.

Inside Tokyo Station near the Shinkansen south transit ticket gates. 1-9-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda. 7am-10pm, until 9.30pm on Sun and pub hol.

50 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Kit yourself MUJI TO GO out As its name suggests, Muji to Go stocks products for those on the go.

Curated from the 7,000 (and more!) items sold at the main Muji store, highlights here include luggage and portable accessories that make your journey more fun and comfortable.

On our must-have list are the Travel Assorting Cases, Conversion Plug Adapters and Mobile Speakers.

You’ll also find simple, practical clothing, as well as plenty of gift ideas. The Kitte Marunouchi flagship store also adds a special something with campaigns such as the Where to Go project, which features a different celebrity (from Japan or abroad) each month who introduce their personal travel essentials.

3F Kitte, 2-7-2 Marunouchi, Chiyoda (Tokyo Station). 03 5220 3120. www.mujito-go.com. 11am-9pm daily, 11am-8pm Sun and pub hol (until 9pm on the day before the hol).

Kit yourself out

THE AIRPORT STORE UNITED ARROWS LTD.

Get practical STOPOVER TOKYO

Shop on the go

TRAVEL SHOP GATE A new retail concept produced by Idea International Co., Ltd., offering everything from suitcases to other useful packing and carrying products. Popular items include the floral printed pouches from Sweet Escape and dotted carry bags from Punto & Linea. We also recommend the colourful luggage tags and belts, and foldable room shoes. 1F Yurakucho Marui, 2-7-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda (Yurakucho Station). 03 6269 9930. travelshop-gate. com. 11am-9pm daily, 10.30am-8.30pm Sun and pub hol.

The ground floor here is influenced by the idea of a ‘travelling restaurant’ and offers multi-cultural cuisine, mixing Thai with French, Mexican and more. Upstairs functions as a retail space – check out the Stopover Airlines brand, which brings to life a fictional airline company through accessories such as lingerie, slippers, neck pillows and luggage tags, all featuring graphic aeroplane motifs. This floor also features a library and space for exhibitions and events.

3-8-14 Minami-Aoyama, Minato (Omotesando, Gaienmae Stations). 03 3478 1091. www.stopover.jp. 12pm-12am. Closed Sun and pub hol.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 51

Shopping & Style

A concept shop produced by United Arrows exclusively for airports, offering a carefully selected range of apparel and lifestyle goods centred on the themes of travel, business and gifts. Here you will find fashion items that meet the needs of different types of travel, whether you’re off for sightseeing, a resort holiday, or a business trip.

Branches at Haneda Airport, Narita International Airport and Kansai International Airport. 03 5708 7523. www.unitedarrows.co.jp/airport/.

9am-7.30pm daily.

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worlds Discover newics through com

Read about samurai culture in Vagabond, become a foodie with Oishinbo or experience Japanese school life through K-On – these manga gems, along with countless other titles, are all available in English translation. There’s also a great selection of American graphic novels for those who prefer Spider-Man over Sailor Moon.

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Understand Japan’s complexities

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Be it through Murakami’s captivating fiction or a hard-hitting work of social criticism, you’ll be able to get to the bottom of the Japanese soul and society with the wide variety of Japan-related books in English available in the J-lit and non-fiction sections.

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Stay connected

Free Wi-Fi in the store means you can Google book reviews before making a purchase, check your email over coffee, or just brag to the working world that you’re spending a relaxing afternoon in a bookstore. Also, if there’s a specific title you’re looking for, talk to the ‘book concierges’ – they’ll happily point you in the right direction.

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Take a coffee break

The third-floor Tully’s coffee shop provides a welcome reprieve from Shinjuku’s chaotic streets and the perfect spot to enjoy your newly purchased books right away.

On a sunny day, take your coffee outside and sip while watching the trains pass by.

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LOCAL INSIGHT

Shinjuku’s renowned bookseller just got even better – with a facelift to their foreign-language floor, there’s more reason to visit than ever before

It’s not all English here: Books Kinokuniya Tokyo boasts a formidable selection of books in several European languages – the French section is especially impressive, while Italian, German and Spanish are also well represented.

Stare at sublime shots

It’s easy to spend hours browsing the vast trove of photography and art tomes here.

World-renowned photographers’ monographs and colourful collections of masterful paintings will keep you occupied until you simply can’t lift one more heavy book.

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Pick up the perfect souvenir

Want to combine book shopping with ‘omiyage’ (souvenir gift) hunting?

Check out the souvenir shelf for fun gifts like traditional fans and tenugui handkerchiefs as well as postcards and the like.

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Need a break from all the serious stuff? Make your way to the Fun! shelf, where you’ll find a collection of light-hearted literature along with quirky trinkets and toys – how about studying the secrets of tarot or marvelling at Scanimation books?

IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Update your magazine rack

things to do at Books Kinokuniya Tokyo

Fine-tune your français (or italiano, or español, or…)

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Whether it’s interior design, celebrity gossip or current affairs you’re into, the foreign magazines’ section is sure to satisfy. Major news mags can be found here too, along with a diverse selection of speciality publications, many of them available in a variety of languages.

Lighten up with Fun!

ABOUT BOOKS KINOKUNIYA TOKYO With six floors carrying everything from manga and maps to magazines and literature from all over the world, this is bibliophile heaven, and not least because of its impressive selection of foreign-language publications.

This special section, known as Books Kinokuniya Tokyo, recently had an overhaul and now takes up the entire sixth floor of the building with a beefy selection of 120,000 publications. Takashimaya Times Square, 5-24-2 Sendagaya, Shibuya (Shinjuku Station). 03 5361 3316. www.kinokuniya. co.jp/c/store/Books-Kinokuniya-Tokyo/. 10am-8.30pm

Pick up something for the kids

Browse pretty picture books in the extensive children’s section, which holds both classics and the latest bestsellers from the US, Britain and elsewhere. Make sure to also check out the regular special promotions highlighting popular themes and series.

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LGBT

Gender politics What does it take to be the first openly transgender politician in Japan?

Aya Kamikawa tells Kosuke Shimizu how she found herself in the position

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t’s been nearly 10 years since Japan created the Act for Special Cases in Handling Gender for People with Gender Identity Disorder, which partially allows individuals to legally change their gender. Setagaya Ward, the most populous of Tokyo’s 23 special wards, is the base of activity for one politician who contributed greatly to the passing of this law: Setagaya municipal assembly member Aya Kamikawa, who in 2003 became the first openly transgender person to run for public office in Japan. She has been a vocal advocate for the rights of various minorities ever since.

‘The feeling of unease [with my body] I had since childhood only got stronger with puberty, and although I understood what was going on, I didn’t like it when my voice broke or when my beard started growing. Under social standards, the fact that my body and my mind weren’t in agreement was weird, as was the fact that my first love was another boy. It made me question my “normality”, and my sense of despair deepened by the day.’

‘As a man, I worked as a “salaryman” for a while, but decided to quit at 27. I didn’t want to lie to myself any more, so

I didn’t want to lie to myself any more

54 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

I started undergoing hormone treatments.’

‘After having the permanent body-hair removal procedures, the difficulties I used to have socially disappeared, and having my Adam’s apple removed finally allowed me to walk with my head held high. Eventually, society started to see me as a woman.’

With her outward appearance changed, Kamikawa went back to working life. However, she had to face a different kind of challenge this time: as official documents still listed her as male, she couldn’t take up regular employment without revealing her condition to employers. She was also unable to make pension or health insurance payments.

‘I was being discarded by society.

My conviction that people are social creatures eventually drove me to stand in elections: I knew there were people who wouldn’t be able to make it unless we saw some changes in society.’

Even before making this decision, Kamikawa laid the foundations for legal gender changes by petitioning Diet (Japanese Parliament) members. Only one politician agreed to meet her. Satoru Ienishi, an HIV-positive MP who was a victim of the ’80s scandal that saw hospital patients being treated with tainted blood, had stood up against prejudice himself and urged Kamikawa on: ‘People directly affected by these things have to stand up and argue their case – that’s how the public gets interested.’

‘I thought he was absolutely right. If you’re looking to change things, someone who knows the issue personally has to come forward. In the end, I became a politician and helped to pass a law allowing for gender changes. It’s not as if I wanted to become a politician. For me, politics is just a tool for changing society.’

Thanks to this law, Kamikawa was officially recognised as a woman in April 2005. Although the law still contains strict limitations, Kamikawa and her colleagues chose to go ahead with the bill, rather than have the entire law thrown out or postponed indefinitely. However, they did insist on clauses that make subsequent revision possible.

She emphasises that a gradual process of real change is necessary for helping those who fail to fit into society’s ‘normal’ standards. ‘In my work as an assembly member, I aim to expose lies that are accepted as common sense by most people, and then overturn these issues one by one. I always try to extract real promises from the municipal government. Us politicians can talk all we want, but unless there’s real change, it’s all useless for people who need help.’

Setagaya is the only ward in Tokyo providing online support for sexual minorities – another one of Kamikawa’s achievements.

‘All I can do now is be a supporter. I feel like individuals facing issues similar to mine need to express their grievances in public.’

For more LGBT listings and reviews, go to timeout.com/ tokyo

IMAGE: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

LGBT

Agent of change ‘I aim to expose lies that are accepted as common sense’

Takaraso Hotel room designed by Yayoi Kusama (right) for Dogo Onsenart2014, produced by Tomoharu Matsuda (below)

Spend the night with a work of art Book a hotel stay in the hot spring town of Dogo and you get an art show in your room.

Nick Bradley chats to the producer of the groundbreaking Dogo Onsenart 2014

W

hen you manage to get names like Yayoi Kusama and Nobuyoshi Araki on board, you know you’re onto something big. Dogo Onsenart 2014, which runs until the end of the year, is an ambitious project that may well be the first of its kind.

Selected rooms in hotels and ryokan in the venerable town of Dogo, on the island of Shikoku, have been decorated as art installations – specifically designed and arranged by a group of nine artists comprised of poets, architects, sculptors, photographers and painters.

The rooms are open to visitors to book for the night or to visit during the day, giving you the chance to get up close and personal with some very impressive works. We caught up with the festival producer, Tomoharu Matsuda of arts production company Spiral, to learn more about his adventurous undertaking.

Tell us about the concept of the festival Put simply: to fuse old with new, and to present a juxtaposition of the two.

Dogo is one of the oldest hot spring towns in Japan, and up until now the pull of the town has always been its history. We wanted to add to that; to not just show the history of the place, but also add a new element to the mix. The perfect contrast to the history and culture lay in exhibiting contemporary modern art. Dogo is a small town, pretty compact without much space, so we wondered where the art could be exhibited. That’s when the idea of placing the art in hotel rooms was born.

Originally the project was going to be named ‘Suihei (Horizontal) Hotel’ the idea being that guests could view the art from a horizontal position in bed.

Why Dogo?

It just so happens that the main onsen building is celebrating its 120th anniversary this year. So there was already a local

56 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

government initiative to hold a commemorative art festival. We were brought in as consultants because, while the locals are experts in the history and culture of the area, they needed help in co-ordinating the modern art aspect.

There was a big emphasis on local input and most of the promotional elements of the festival were designed by local talent, for example, the festival logo – its shape symbolises steam rising from a hot spring, while its red colour represents the red glass found at the top of the main onsen building.

around and adjusted to create the artist’s desired effect. Because of this, certain artists instantly seemed more suitable than others.

Our first job was to decide on the artists that would be a good fit, while also representing a cross-section of the current state of modern art. Next came finding hotels that would participate, and finally, which artist would suit each hotel.

On average it took about three months to install one room.

We wanted to leave visitors with a sense of satisfaction, so there were high expectations on the quality of each individual exhibit.

What was the thinking behind the line-up of participating artists, and how long did it take to arrange one room?

There was a lot to the process. Due to the nature of the project, we were not dealing with works of art that could be borrowed and returned easily. Each room had to be jigged

Will the rooms remain as they are?

Unfortunately not. Perhaps some of the rooms, or portions of them, might stay decorated as they are, but the majority will go. On the one hand, the festival runs for a whole year, but the flip side is that someone has to take care of the works for the duration.

We wanted to fuse and juxtapose old and new

HOTEL ROOM: © YAYOI KUSAMA/DOGO ONSENART 2014 & HOTEL HORIZONTAL, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, ; YAYOI KUSAMA PORTRAIT: © YAYOI KUSAMA

Art & Culture

Art & Culture

Art lover? Travel luster? Plan your next trip around these festivals and galleries

Dogo Onsenart 2014 Until Dec 31, 2014 With a history stretching back around 1,000 years, the hot spring in Dogo is a legend in its own right.

Known for inspiring the bathhouse in Hayao Miyazaki’s ‘Spirited Away’, the main onsen building has long had a love affair with art and literature, including being mentioned in Natsume Soseki’s 1906 novel Botchan. The old wooden building celebrates its 120th anniversary this year and is the impetus behind the Dogo Onsenart 2014 festival (see interview left). The Hotel Horizontal room project is part of the festival and involves artists such as Yayoi Kusama, Nobuyoshi Araki, Shuntaro Tanikawa, JeanLuc Vilmouth and Makoto Tanijiri artistically arranging rooms that guests can stay in. Visitors are also able to view the rooms during the day (subject to entry times and fees). There are also art exhibitions throughout the town, such as Fujiko Nakaya’s ‘fog sculpture’.

Dogo Onsen and surrounding area, Matsuyama, Ehime. 089 933 0710. www.dogoonsenart.com, www.hotelhorizontal-dogo.com.

What else to do While you’re in the area, rent a bicycle (www. go-shimanami.jp/global/english/ bicycle) and cycle the spectacular 70km Shimanami Kaido (road and

bridge network), which features bike and pedestrian paths the whole way, to the old artsy port town of Onomichi in Hiroshima.

Sapporo International Art Festival 2014 Jul 19-Sep 28 Admittedly, this Hokkaido city is more famous as a winter destination, particularly during its world-famous Snow Festival in February. However, Sapporo still has a lot going for it in the summer months too, including comfortable temperatures and humidity... oh, and no cockroaches!

The city is a young and vibrant one, with a strong representation of youth culture and nightlife. This summer, the city will host its first international art festival, under the guest stewardship of internationally acclaimed composer Ryuichi Sakamoto, renowned for his awardwinning soundtracks to films such as ‘Merry Christmas, Mr. Lawrence’, ‘The Last Emperor’ and ‘Babel’. The entire city will serve as a stage for the various exhibitions and performances that make up the festival, which will work along the overarching theme of ‘City and Nature’. Participating artists include a wide range of talent, both local and international.

Around Sapporo, Hokkaido.

011 222 4894. www.sapporointernationalartfestival.jp/en/.

WIN!

We are giving away three copies of The Art Lover’s Guide to Japanese Museums (The Japan Society, ¥3,257), a new book by art historian Sophie Richard. Explore your way around Japan and its ‘museum kingdom’ with the help of this guide, which features 100 of the most distinctive and inspiring art museums in the country.

Read our interview with Richard at www.timeout.com/tokyo.

To enter the competition, send your name, address and contact number to info@timeout.jp by August 31, 2014. The winners will be notified by email. Competition rules at www.timeout.jp.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 57

Art & Culture

HOTEL ROOM: © NOBUYOSHI ARAKI/DOGO ONSENART 2014 & HOTEL HORIZONTAL, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Room designed by Nobuyoshi Araki (right) at Hotel Kowakuen for Dogo Onsenart 2014

21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa Kanazawa is a great getaway in itself, but for art lovers the lure is the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary What else to do There are a Art, which exhibits work by host of other attractions in the city international artists and celebrates including Kenrokuen (tinyurl.com/ its 10th anniversary this TOTkenrokuen), one of Japan’s most N! O year. Until August beautiful gardens. There are O S G 31, you can see also the old samurai COMIN Echigo-Tsumari Leandro Erlich’s houses of Nagamachi Art Triennale 2015 first solo exhibition (tinyurl.com/ First launched in 2000, this is the in Japan, ‘Leandro TOTnagamachi), world’s largest international art festival Erlich – The and the Higashi and it happens only every three years, so Ordinary?’, Chaya area plan ahead for next year’s event. It’s only a couple hours by train from Tokyo and the setting (tinyurl.com/ which seeks to includes art installations spread over 760 alter perceptions TOThigashichaya), square kilometres of lush green hills, mountain an old tea district, ‘by taking tops, rice paddies and old farmhouses. something where you might Matsudai,Tokamachi. Niigata. ordinary, a pool, even see a geisha 025 595 6688. www.echigoand turning it into wandering the tsumari.jp/eng. the extraordinary’. streets in the evening.

1-2-1 Hirosaka, For lovers of architecture, Kanazawa, Ishikawa. 076 220 the D.T. Suzuki Museum (tinyurl.

2800. www.kanazawa21.jp/en. com/TOTsuzuki) is a must-see.

‘THE SWIMMING POOL’, 2004

Go on an art pilgrimage

What else to do Don’t forget to try the local speciality, jingisukan (lamb cooked on a hot plate), washed down with some delicious Sapporo beer.

For onsen lovers, Jozankei (jozankei. jp/en/) is a stone’s throw away.

Art & Culture

Essential exhibitions

Art & Culture

Balthus, or Balthasar Klossowski de Rola, is known as one of the most controversial artists of the 20th century, but few people are aware of the fact that he actually substituted a camera for his pencil later in life.

This ambitious display will present photographs taken by the artist himself – an interesting chance to see a series of colour prints and polaroids, many of which are being shown publicly in Japan for the very first time. 2-6-2 Marunouchi, Chiyoda.

03 5405 8686. mimt.jp/english/.

10am-6pm Sat-Thu, 10am-8pm Fri.

‘Go-Betweens: The World Seen through Children’ Mori Art Museum, until Aug 31 ‘Go-Betweens’ is the word used by photographer Jacob A Riis to describe immigrant children who acted as ‘bridges’ to help their parents, who could not speak English well, settle in New York back in the late 19th century. Focusing on key words like playtime, dream and memory, this exhibition puts the spotlight on various boundaries – including the one between real and imaginary worlds – through the eyes of a child.

53F Roppongi Hills Mori Tower, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato. 03 5777 8600. mori.art.museum/eng/index.html.

10am-10pm Wed-Mon, 10am-5pm Tue.

‘Mission Space x Art – Beyond Cosmologies’ Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo, until Aug 31 It’s hardly news that the universe can be disarmingly beautiful: deepspace telescopes regularly produce eye-popping displays of colour depicting galaxies far, far away. This display, however, looks at space from a more explicitly artistic viewpoint, introducing visitors to everything from rocket and satellite parts to depictions of the final frontier in entertainment like literature, manga and animation.

4-1-1 Miyoshi, Koto. 03 5245 4111. mot-art-museum.jp/eng/. 10am-6pm Tue-Sun, until 9pm on Fridays Jul 18 & 25,Aug 1, 8, 15, 22 & 29.

‘Guess what? Hardcore Contemporary Art’s Truly a World Treasure: Selected Works from the Yageo Foundation Collection’ The National Museum of Modern Art Tokyo, until Aug 24 Taiwan’s Yageo Foundation has been putting together quite a collection of contemporary masterpieces

58 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

since the mid-1990s, picking up works from luminaries like Andy Warhol, Francis Bacon, Gerhard Richter and Hiroshi Sugimoto.

Seventy-odd of the foundation’s treasures are displayed at this exhibit, which promises to take the visitor on a journey to the peak of the contemporary art world.

3-1 Kitanomaru Koen, Chiyoda.

03 5777 8600. www.momat.go.jp/ english/. 10am-5pm Tue-Thu and Sat-Sun, 10am-8pm Fri. ‘Balthus: The Last Studies’ Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum Tokyo, until Sep 7

‘Specters, Ghosts, and Sorcerers in Ukiyo-e’ Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial Museum of Art, Jul 1-Sep 25 Learn everything you need to know about the mythical monsters of the Edo period at this exhibition.

The show is divided into three parts, with a total of 270 pieces – organised into themes like monsters, ghosts and sorcery – to be shown in consecutive months.

This one’s sure to provide you with some much-needed chills in the midst of Tokyo’s unforgiving summer heat. 1-10-10 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 3403 0880. ukiyoeota-muse.jp/index-E.html.

10.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun. ‘Image-Makers’ 21_21 Design Sight, Jul 4-Oct 5 See imaginative works that are free from the conventions of design and art at this exhibit, directed

by Hélène Kelmachter, expert in French-Japanese cultural relations.

The pieces come in various forms including photos, drawings, video installations, moving sculptures and theatrical performances, and participating artists include director

‘GO-BETWEENS’: WON SEOUNG WON, ‘OVERSLEEPING’ (FROM THE SERIES MY AGE OF SEVEN), TYPE C-PRINT, 86X120CM; ‘COSMOLOGIES’: TEAMLAB, COLD LIFE, 2014, CALIGRAPHY: SISYU; ‘GUESS WHAT? HARDCORE CONTEMPORARY ART’S TRULY A WORLD TREASURE: SELECTED WORKS FROM THE YAGEO FOUNDATION COLLECTION’: GERHARD RICHTER, ‘AUNT MARIANNE’, 1965 © GERHARD RICHTER, 2014; ‘BALTHUS’: BALTHUS, ‘UNTITLED’, C. 1992-2000. COLOUR POLAROID, 10.2-10.2CM HARUMI KLOSSOWSKA DE ROLA

Discover the photographer in Balthus and go behind the scenes of Studio Ghibli’s famous anime films

‘SPECTERS, GHOSTS, AND SORCERERS IN UKIYO-E’: UTAGAWA KUNIYOSHI, ONE SCENE FROM KABUKI PLAY ‘UMENOHARU GOJUSANTSUGI’; ‘IMAGE-MAKERS’: JEAN-PAUL GOUDE, ‘THE QUEEN OF SEOUL’, PARIS 2005; ‘KINETIC ART’: FRANCO GRIGNANI, ‘INCASTRO FLUTTUANTE 33’; ‘GEORGE NELSON-ARCHITECT, WRITER, DESIGNER, EDUCATOR’: ‘GEORGE NELSON IN MOSCOW, 1959’. PHOTO: VITRA DESIGN MUSEUM ARCHIVE

‘Kinetic Art’ Sompo Japan Museum of Art, Jul 8-Aug 24 With origins in early-1900s European surrealism, ‘moving art’ reached a high point in the heady ’60s with works by artists such as Franco Grignani and Takis Vassilakis. See a selection of 90 representative kinetic pieces – including motor-powered sculptures, trick works and optical illusions – at this exhibition that’s the first of its kind in Japan.

42F Sompo Japan Bldg, 1-26-1 NishiShinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 5777 8600. sompo-japan.co.jp/museum/english/ index.html. 10am-6pm Tue-Sun.

Art & Culture

David Lynch and multi-talented French art director and designer Jean-Paul Goude.

9-7-6 Akasaka, Minato. 03 3475 2121. 2121designsight.jp/en/.

11am-8pm Wed-Mon.

’Studio Ghibli: Architecture in Animation’ Edo-Tokyo Open-air Architectural Museum, Jul 10-Dec 14 Studio Ghibli’s latest film, Hiromasa Yonebayashi’s ‘When Marnie Was There’, will have its Japanese premiere on July 19. Celebrating this eagerly awaited film, which is based on Joan G Robinson’s novel of the same name, the museum will be displaying miniatures, blueprints and sketches of structures previously seen in Ghibli’s many renowned films. Fans will also want to check out the related exhibit at the Edo-Tokyo Museum, ‘Yohei Taneda Creates the Art of When Marnie Was There’, where you can enter full-scale sets and thus experience Marnie’s world for yourself. 3-7-1 Sakuracho, Koganei. 042 388 3300. tatemonoen.jp/english/index.html.

9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun.

‘George Nelson – Architect, Writer, Designer, Educator’ Meguro Museum of Art, Jul 15-Sep 18 Part of a world tour exhibition organised by Germany’s Vitra Design Museum, this show takes a look at how George Nelson defined American design through his work in a dizzying variety of fields, including architecture, editing, design and education. The multitalented creator’s achievements are displayed in the form of vintage furniture, documentaries, models and more.

2-4-36 Meguro, Meguro. 03 3714 1201. mmat.jp. 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 59

Music Find your perfect music fest You don’t need to love the one you’re with. Be with the gig that brings out the best in you with our guide to summer’s top music festivals. Words James Hadfield

If you’d rather spend the weekend in Akihabara, then you’ll like…

August 2-3 Odaiba & Aomi area,Tokyo (idolfes.com) It’s the prime hoedown for Japan’s idol-loving otaku: a two-day fest in which over 100 acts from all around the country descend on Tokyo’s Odaiba district in a tornado of miniskirts, squeaky voices and exuberantly amateurish dance routines. Now into its fifth year, Tokyo Idol Festival is promising that its latest edition will be even bigger and better.

Survival tips Some of the festival venues have limited capacity, so get to the stage early if there’s an act you particularly want to see.

How to get there Odaiba is accessible via the Rinkai and Yurikamome lines.

Where to stay There’s no need to book accommodation in Odaiba: the fest wraps up at around 10pm, giving you plenty of time to catch a train back to your hotel.

Who to watch Idoling!!!, Dorothy Little Happy, Lyrical School, Vanilla Beans, Negicco

If you want to go to a ‘real’ music festival, then you’ll like…

Fuji Rock Festival ’14

July 25-27 Naeba Ski Resort, Niigata (www.fujirockfestival.com) Convenience, comfort, consistently good weather: Fuji Rock delivers none of these things. But if you’re of the opinion that a music festival just isn’t a music festival unless you have to rough it for your rock ’n’ roll, this is the one for you. The most famous of Japan’s outdoor rock fests, Fuji boasts a stunning location, a ludicrously eclectic lineup, and an anything-goes spirit that you won’t find at other, more sanitised events. Just pray it doesn’t rain too much this year.

Survival tips You can expect multiple weather systems in the space of a single afternoon at Fuji. Pack sunscreen and waterproofs.

How to get there Take the Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Echigo-Yuzawa Station, then ride a free shuttle bus to the festival site.

Where to stay There’s cheap onsite camping, but don’t expect to get much sleep. Many opt to stay at pensions and lodges in the surrounding Naeba area.

Who to watch Arcade Fire, The Flaming Lips, Outkast, St. Vincent, Fanfare Ciocarlia

WHAT KIND OF FESTIVALGOER ARE YOU? THE OUTDOOR DUDE Distinguishing traits: fullbody rain gear, portable stool, keeps making excuses to go back to the campsite.

Most likely to say: ‘It’s just not a festival if you don’t camp.’

Least likely to say: ‘Actually, I decided to stay at a hotel this year.’

60 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

THE NEWBIE Distinguishing traits: sleeveless vest, flip-flops, improvised raincoat made from rubbish bag, pauses to take photos every 30 seconds.

Most likely to say: ‘Do we need seat reservations?’

Least likely to say: ‘Tsk, this never would’ve happened at Woodstock.’

THE PARTY ANIMAL Distinguishing traits: novelty costume, ruddy complexion, intermittent state of unconsciousness.

Most likely to say: ‘YEEEEEAAAAAHHHH!’ Least likely to say: anything remotely coherent after around 3pm.

FUJI ROCK PUNK: JAMES HADFIELD; ILLUSTRATIONS: YUTAKA NAKAO

Music

Tokyo Idol Festival 2014

If you never leave home without a beret, then you’ll like…

Tokyo Jazz Festival

Summer Sonic 2014

August 16-17 Makuhari Messe & QVC Marine Field, Chiba (www.summersonic.com) You can talk all you like about free love and communing with nature, but let’s get real: most people just go to music festivals for the music. Fuji Rock’s urban rival might have about as much atmosphere as a shopping mall, but it’s cheaper, easier to get to and doesn’t require skiving off work. And while the line-up seems scattershot at first, it’s actually a precision-tooled demographic dragnet, ensuring that the event always sells out well in advance.

Survival tips Save money by stocking up on booze at local convenience stores on the walk between Makuhari Messe and QVC Marine Field.

How to get there Take the Keiyo line from Tokyo Station

THE SHOPAHOLIC Distinguishing traits: shopping bags, spends entire festival in queue for merchandise stall.

Most likely to say: ‘Can you lend me some money? I spent it all on T-shirts.’

Least likely to say: ‘Man, the festival circuit’s so commercialised these days.’

to KaihinMakuhari Station.

Where to stay Things wrap up early enough for you to make it back into Tokyo, but there are a number of hotels in Makuhari as well – just make sure you book early.

Who to watch Arctic Monkeys, Kraftwerk, Little Dragon, Sky Ferreira, Robert Plant and the Sensational Shape Shifters

THE MUSIC SNOB Distinguishing traits: obscure band T-shirt, permanent scowl, only gets excited about acts playing mid-afternoon sets on the minor stages.

Most likely to say: ‘They could’ve been a bit more adventurous with this year’s programming, don’t you think?’

Least likely to say: ‘Jack Johnson? I love Jack Johnson!’

THE HIPPIE Distinguishing traits: tie-dyed everything, sweaty headband, dances like no-one’s watching.

Most likely to say: ‘Have you tried the gluten-free, dairy-free, sugar-free brownies yet?’

Least likely to say: ‘Gotta go, I have to be up early for work tomorrow.’

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 61

Music

If you want maximum bang for your buck, then you’ll like…

September 5-7 Tokyo International Forum & Cotton Club,Tokyo (www. tokyo-jazz.com) Aside from the odd act on the Fuji Rock bill, jazz fans aren’t given a whole lot to chew on during festival season. Tokyo’s biggest jazz event revolves around a series of sit-down concerts in conventional venues, but you can also catch some al fresco performances in the plaza of Tokyo International Forum during the weekend.

Survival tips It’s sometimes possible to buy tickets on the day, but you’ll be much safer if you book ahead.

How to get there Tokyo International Forum is accessible via Yurakucho and Tokyo Stations.

Where to stay The venue is extremely well located: you could stay almost anywhere in central Tokyo and still just be a short hop away by train or subway.

Who to watch Makoto Ozone featuring No Name Horses vs Christian McBride Big Band, Michel Camilo x Hiromi Uehara, Jaga Jazzist, Naruyoshi Kikuchi et Pepe Tormento Azucarar, Hiromi Uehara & The Trio Project

Music If you’d rather poke your ears out than listen to EDM, then you’ll like…

The Labyrinth 2014

If you need something for the whole family, then you’ll like…

September 13-15 Naeba Greenland, Niigata (www.mindgames.jp) Japan’s most exacting techno festival keeps its priorities straight: one stage, no sponsors, and a Funktion One sound-system so exquisitely tuned that some revellers seem to spend the entire weekend telling everyone how damn good it sounds.

Too bad they can’t control the weather: the final day of last year’s event had to be cancelled due to a typhoon.

Survival tips Typhoons aside, it always seems to rain at some point. Bring rainwear – preferably something you can still dance in.

How to get there Most people go by car. If that’s not an option, take the Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Echigo-Yuzawa Station, catch a bus to the Naeba Prince Hotel, then take a shuttle bus from there to the festival site.

Where to stay There’s free onsite camping, but some of the lodges in Naeba are open for business during the festival too.

Who to watch There’s only one stage, and the entire three days are programmed like a longform set. Watch everything.

August 10 Yumenoshima Park, Tokyo (world-happiness.com) Parents with children in tow are made to feel especially welcome at this one-day festival, co-organised by Yellow Magic Orchestra’s Yukihiro Takahashi. Held in a park not far from the centre of Tokyo, World Happiness has a massive kids’ area and steeply discounted tickets for elementary school kids. Added bonus: bands play short sets on parallel stages, meaning you won’t have to move after staking out your spot for the day.

Survival tips The crowd is divided into pre-reserved blocks, so make sure you get your tickets early: it’ll mean you end up sitting closer to the stages How to get there Take the Keiyo, Rinkai or Yurakucho subway line to Shin-Kiba Station.

Where to stay The festival wraps up at around 8pm: stay wherever you like in Tokyo.

Who to watch Haruomi Hosono, Yukihiro Takahashi & Metafive, Kyary Pamyu Pamyu, Denki Groove, Cero

August 2-3 & 9-10 Hitachi Seaside Park, Ibaraki (rijfes.jp) For an overview of what’s hot on the Japanese rock and pop scenes circa 2014, it’s hard to beat this fest organised by the folks behind influential music mag Rockin’ On. Held at a spacious seaside park in Ibaraki, Rock in Japan tends to attract a younger crowd than its competitors, and – the odd tipsy college kid aside – debauchery is low on the agenda. To celebrate its 15th edition, the event is being split across two consecutive weekends for the first time this year.

Survival tips Even with water sprinklers, mist machines and shady wooded areas, this festival gets hot. Slap on some sunscreen, wear a hat and drink plenty of water.

How to get there Take the Joban line from Ueno Station to Katsuta Station. It’s worth paying extra for the (much quicker) limited express service.

Where to stay It’s a long way back to Tokyo. If you’re going for the weekend, consider getting a JTB package tour including accommodation, or pitching a tent at the festival’s Camp Village.

Who to watch Sakanaction, Kyary Pamyu Pamyu, Kaela Kimura, Fujifabric, Akai-Koen

If you want to find out what the ‘kids’ are into, then you’ll like…

Rock in Japan Festival 2014

ALSO ON THE RADAR...

AOMORI ROCK FESTIVAL (NATSU NO MAMONO) July 21. Yogoshiyama Ski Area, Hiranaimachi, Aomori (natsunomamono. com) This one-day fest likes to do things differently, from the ludicrously early start time (7am!) to pro-wrestler appearances and a lineup that finds space for workaday indie guitar bands, idol pop, anime song specialists and veteran post-hardcore outfit Brahman.

62 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

SONICMANIA 2014 August 15. Makuhari Messe, Chiba (www. creativeman.co.jp/ sonicmania/2014) The all-night prelude to Summer Sonic features appearances

by Kasabian, Kraftwerk including Dutch progressive and electro house DJ Hardwell, Mogwai, Sakanaction and more.

RISING SUN ROCK FESTIVAL 2014 August 15-16. Tarukawa Wharf, Otaru, Hokkaido (rsr.wess.co.jp) Rising Sun spreads the action across two days, the second of which doesn’t wrap up until dawn.There’s a lot else that this fest gets right too, from the gourmet food offerings to the way it puts its campsites right at the centre of the action.

LABYRINTH MUD: JAMES HADFIELD

Music

World Happiness 2014

If you’re always complaining that the music’s too loud, then you’ll like…

New Acoustic Camp 2014

If you feel like hitting the beach, then you’ll like…

August 8-10 Riviera Zushi Marina, Zushi, Kanagawa (www.mtvjapan.com/ zushifes2014) The coastal town of Zushi, about an hour south of Tokyo, is one of the capital’s favourite seaside getaways. If you believe the local authorities, it’s also a hotbed of beach-bum delinquency, which is why they’re imposing a ban this year on loud music, visible tattoos and alcohol. This MTV-sponsored bash, peddling a diet of hip-hop, EDM and J-pop, is always the biggest party of the season – but this year, it looks like it might be the only one.

Survival tips Bring a swimsuit. You’ll need it.

How to get there Don’t make the mistake of going to Zushi Station. There’s a free shuttle bus to the festival, but it runs from Kamakura (on the JR Yokosuka and Shonan-Shinjuku lines).

Where to stay It’s peak season in Kamakura and Zushi – you’ll probably have more luck finding accommodation in nearby Yokohama.

Who to watch Rip Slyme, M-Flo, Sky-Hi, AK-69, Jamosa

ULTRA JAPAN September 27-28. Tokyo Odaiba Ultra Park, Tokyo (www.ultrajapan.com) The EDM behemoth’s Tokyo debut promises to bring the outdoor music festival circuit to a raucous close with some big-name performances (apparently performing a ‘3D set’ – you’ll need those movie theatre-style glasses).

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 63

Music

MTV Zushi Fes 14

September 13-14 Minakami Kogen Resort 200, Gunma (www.newacousticcamp.com) The name says it all. Though it features many familiar faces from the domestic festival circuit, New Acoustic Camp does things differently. All the performers play exclusively acoustic sets, and there’s as much emphasis on workshops and outdoor activities – from mass Frisbee throwing to folk dancing – as there is on the music.

Survival tips The site is roughly 1,000 metres above sea level, and the nights get chilly – so bring something warm to wear.

How to get there Take the Takasaki line from Ueno Station to Takasaki, change to the Joetsu line for Minakami, then take the paid bus service from there.

Where to stay Most people camp, but if you’d rather not spend the night under canvas, you could opt for one of the many local pensions or ryokan inns.

Who to watch Soil & ‘Pimp’ Sessions, Ego-Wrappin’, Overground Acoustic Underground, Predawn, Johnsons Motorcar

Music

What sci-fi sounds like Shintaro Sakamoto, former frontman for Yura Yura Teikoku, tells Sei Harada about how a steel guitar and an ‘insect voice’ inspired the empty world of his new solo album

Music

I

n March 2010, underground psych-rock outfit Yura Yura Teikoku quite suddenly announced their breakup on their official band website.

Their statement read: ‘Now that the band has reached a record high, we felt it was time to finish.’

While it’s not unusual to hear of bands splitting because they’ve run out of creative steam, this must have been the first time in the Japanese music scene that a band broke up simply because they had reached the height of their popularity.

Looking back, the existence of a band like Yura Yura Teikoku (literally ‘The Wobbling Empire’) alone was something that had never been seen before.

Starting out as a psychedelic garage band with an old-school hippie vibe, they entered the new millennium with songs reminiscent of nursery rhymes, complete with children’s vocals; minimalist songs that took the reduction of sounds to the extreme; songs that left out guitars in favour of the sax and the shakuhachi (Japanese flute); and then a few AOR (album-oriented rock) songs that held commercial appeal. All in all, they produced a huge collection of music that broke the rock-band mould and surprised both fans and critics.

After the band split, Yura Yura Teikoku’s frontman Shintaro Sakamoto released ‘How To Live With a Phantom’ in 2011. With no trace of his former rock persona to be found, Sakamoto’s first solo album is best described as funk, with congas and maracas reverberating rhythmically through soft, groovy, mellow songs. An exceedingly private ‘monologue’ can be heard through Sakamoto’s choked vocals. Released overseas through the Other Music label, it found strong support from international musicians such as Mayer Hawthorne and Christopher Owens (originally from Girls).

Fast forward to the present and Sakamoto – who has been called a ‘Japanese psych-pop hero’ – has just released his follow-up. ‘Let’s Dance Raw’ is evidently built on a specific concept, its apocalyptic air created through disquieting lyrics and an insincere cheer that brings to mind the idea of a fake paradise. It’s almost like a sciencefiction story by manga artist Daijiro Morohoshi.

‘The first song I finished was track two, “Birth of the Super Cult”,’ says Sakamoto. ‘It began with me thinking that somehow I’d like to bring steel guitar into the song, which for me conjured up the image of an artificial paradise.

Because of that, I wrote science fiction-style lyrics, as though it were music echoing through an empty world after the destruction of mankind.’

The steel guitar, used throughout this album, is

Reluctant star Twenty years in the biz and still stage shy

seldom used in rock music and in Japan it’s strongly associated with the particular genre of mood music from the ’60s. ‘It’s quite reminiscent of country; quite reminiscent of roots. Without making it feel too Hawaiian, I wanted to incorporate the damp style of Japanese instruments.

I wanted the feel of the outskirts of a city.’ Another characteristic sound on the album is the ‘insect voice’ used in certain choruses. ‘It wasn’t that I intentionally wanted to do something strange. But I thought I could create an eerie feeling by adding an inhuman chorus.’

On first listen, ‘Let’s Dance Raw’ presents as a cheerful album, full of upbeat, tropical sounds. When you read the lyrics, however, you are confronted with the ego and darkness that exists in the heart of every person. ‘I wanted to depict tragic things, but these things make it hard to enjoy the music, so I gave it a coating of science fiction.’

Its apocalyptic air is created through disquieting lyrics

64 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Although they reflect a sci-fi future, the lyrics are laced with a sense of resignation. The message they seem to relay is that we are living apathetically in a nihilistic world where everyone must somehow still find pleasure in the established order.

Perhaps there is a connection to how Sakamoto feels inside. He remarks that even after a career spanning more than 20 years, he has not grown used to appearing in public, which results in a feeling of frustration at not being able to completely be a musician. ‘I haven’t rid myself entirely of that awkwardness that comes from being embarrassed to go out on stage. But I can’t turn my back [on being a musician].’

Since going solo, Sakamoto has resolved to stop playing concerts and to slip away from the deadlines and obligations of the music industry, instead taking as much time as he needs to create the music he loves. We can’t help but think there must be a direct link between this freedom he’s allowed himself and the fascinating intricacies of the music he’s giving us.

Music Grown-up kawaii?

If there is such a thing, this could be it

What Kyary did next The sparkling fantasy of the J-pop phenom’s latest album

I

t’s been three years since her no-holds-barred debut ‘Pon Pon Pon’, a catchy combination of children’s songs and Shibuya pop, all wrapped in a ragingly colourful Harajuku package. Now a worldwide superstar, Kyary Pamyu Pamyu opens her third album, ‘Pika Pika Fantajin’ (‘Sparkling Fantajin’ – fantajin meaning ‘fantasy person’), with an eponymous title track, which sets the chiptune-heavy tone for the entire record. One watch of the candy-coloured, video game-like music video for ‘Family Party’ and you’ll get what we mean.

Produced by Yasutaka Nakata,

whose style is influenced by the Nintendo generation, ‘Pika Pika Fantajin’ hints at the Superflat art movement, developed by artist Takashi Murakami to reflect Japanese graphic art, animation and pop culture, as well as the shallow consumer culture.

It weaves in the unshakable beat of video-game music – another form of the ‘flat’ movement which can often be picked up in Nakata’s work.

Kyary’s voice is polished to perfection and the accompanying melodies match her over-the-top fashion by way of toy pianos, bells and synths.

Lady Gaga or Katy Perry could belt

Lady Gaga could belt out any of these songs but her machismo would get in the way

out any one of these songs but their machismo would always stand in the way of them expressing the particular worldview we see through Kyary.

This is refined pop born in Nakata’s studio, mixed with 8-bit sounds, France Gall’s yé-yé, Irish influences and EDM on the surface of a ‘flat’ world, and then completed by Kyary’s simple, highpitched voice. We might even venture to say that the ‘kawaii’ world created

by Kyary and Nakata has reached a state of maturity.

Watch Kyary live this summer at Summer Sonic, World Happiness and Rock in Japan.

Turn to page 60 for festival details.

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It’s showbiz, baby Geishas are out, new-halfs are in. Annemarie Luck dips a toe into the weird and wonderful world of Tokyo’s cabaret pubs

Is it a he?

Or is it a she?

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hat do you do when you’re faced with boys – or girl-boys as the case may be – before and a naked Japanese man on stage, a after the show, making this form of entertainment look of mock terror on his face as one just that little bit more titillating. And both are of his co-performers hands you the end of a long, arguably descended from the geisha culture, which exaggerated elastic band while another stands also sees pretty young things dressed up and behind him and holds the other end between his selling a fantasy to Japan’s overworked salarymen legs? You count down with the rest of the audience (these days women are customers too). As for from three to one and let go, obviously, and watch the trend of hiring men dressed as women, and the poor (or brave?) man fall to the ground men who live as women (new-halfs), I’m told as the elastic band slaps him hard by the owner of Roppongi Kingyo that where the sun don’t shine. And the this stems from kabuki culture, crowd goes wild. where traditionally only men were This is not a quintessential allowed to perform on stage show-pub experience, and so had to play the role which is usually an eyeof women too. popping mix of Las Vegas Right then, handcuff cabaret glitz and traditional your inhibitions to the Japanese dancing. And bedpost. You don’t want granted, it was part of a latethem standing in the way late-night gig with an all-male of the ‘Gangnam Style’ cast, so even giving it the title dance you’re about to do with of ‘cabaret’ is dubious. Yet a Japanese version of Kylie there I was, at the end of a very Minogue.

The boys at Dragon long evening of show-pub hopping, faced with the shrinking genitals of a DRAGON TOKYO man paid to entertain Roppongi’s creatures Just when you thought things couldn’t get of the night. any weirder than the naked-man-elastic-band Roppongi is littered with show, or cabaret, pubs incident, one of the performers crawls inside a and the level of talent, entertainment and skinbig see-through plastic bag and his buddies suck baring varies between them. Not to be confused the air out if it using a vacuum cleaner. I can only with a hostess bar, the show pub does what it says: assume this is meant to be a rip off of Japanese offers drinks and grub along with a stage show. The artist Haruhiko Kawaguchi’s ‘Flesh Love’ series, similarity between the two types of bars comes in which features couples trapped in vacuum-sealed that you get to mingle with the performing girls and bags, but the humour is lost on me as I imagine

Kingyo’s reinventing stage is part of the magic

The warrior dance

NUDITY RATING ★ No thrills ★★ Just a hint ★★★ Bare buns ★★★★ Torso tease (female) ★★★★★ Full Monty (male)

66 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

IMAGES: KISA TOYOSHIMA

Nightlife

Nightlife

there are subtle undertones of homo-eroticism and in one scene a group of girls dressed in slinky red gowns turns away from the audience and drops their satin cloaks to waist height, revealing naked backs and the hint of a bosom curve. That’s about as risqué as it gets, though, and on the whole, the show works as a fascinating summary of the beautiful traditions and odd paradoxes of Japanese culture.

NUDITY RATING ★★★ 5-4-2 Roppongi, Minato. 03 5414 8818. www. kaguwa.com. 6pm-12.30am Mon-Fri (two shows per night), 3.45pm-12.30am Sat & Sun (three shows per night). ¥3,500 Oiran-za (excl. drinks and food), ¥2,500 Biou-za (incl. green tea and crackers).

Floating barmaid

It’s called burlesque

a hitch; unsurprising since Kingyo has built a reputation on delivering slick productions that fuse innovation and tradition. This particular one is their 25th-anniversary show and includes all the extravaganza you could want out of 60 minutes as well as more sombre references to Japan’s wartime past and flashes of a futuristic world.

NUDITY RATING ★★ 3-14-17 Roppongi, Minato. 03 3478 3000. www.kingyo.co.jp.

6pm-12am (two shows per night, closed Mon). ¥3,500 (excl. drinks and food).

ROPPONGI KINGYO Shima Shyna, a lanky new-half dancer who’s been performing at Kingyo for eight years, catwalks up to me before the show for a chat.

She’s all legs and arms and big hazel eyes. She tells me that it was her childhood dream to join the cast of Kingyo because the theatre, founded in 1994, was the first of its kind and stands apart from the rest as it seeks not only to entertain but also to deliver a moving message. Watching the show, it’s the moving stage that really gets my attention. It changes constantly; elevating, dipping, turning into neon-pink stairs or slanted wooden ramps, all the while with the performers twirling, jumping, acrobating and even Irish dancing their way on and around it. One press of the wrong button by the stage staff and it could all go massively wrong. But the show goes off without

ROPPONGI KAGUWA Another show pub with an impressive reinventing stage, Kaguwa incorporates non-stop energy and emotion into both its daily Oiran-za show and weekends-only Biouza show. The premise of both shows is the red-light district of the Meiji era (1868-1912) when the oiran, or Japanese courtesans, were known as masters of entertainment, cultural arts and conversation. That said, the show veers from elegant kimono-clad oirans to samurai-wielding warriors, a hungry, crazy-eyed, inflatable dragon, and nerdy golf players dancing to ‘YMCA’ (the mind boggles). At times,

Fans of ‘Jackass’ will relish the live crude action

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Nightlife

him suffocating to death. Nevertheless, the rest of the audience is laughing uproariously, as they have been doing for the entire show, which basically consists of some half-hearted ‘Magic Mike’ moves, some very enthusiastic full Monties, and some intermittent comedic routines. Fans of ‘Jackass’ will relish the live crude action but if you are looking for anything other than shock factor and a peek into Japan’s more bizarre side, choose a different door.

NUDITY RATING ★★★★★ 6F, 3-11-6 Roppongi, Minato.

03 3405 0566. 12am-3am.

BURLESQUE TOKYO When I first walked into Burlesque Tokyo, I thought ‘strip club’. There was a girl hanging upside down from a pole on a stage surrounded by men, and a Jacuzzi in the corner that doubles up as a bar, complete with barmaid serving drinks while floating around amidst foamy bubbles. It’s a smoky, loud-music vibe with mirrored walls and shiny chandeliers and girls strutting around in teeny tiny denim shorts and cutaway crop tops. Yet it’s not a strip club masquerading as a show pub. It’s inspired by ‘Burlesque’ – the film – and as such it does a good job of putting on a musical slash cabaret show, even if there’s no Aguilera rival in sight. Expect tight buns in G-strings and excitable Japanese girls willing you to stand up and join them in a ‘Gangnam Style’ finale dance. Oh, and don’t forget to exchange your yen for fake bills – when the dancers come round to greet you afterwards, their bras overflowing with accumulated tips, you don’t want to be caught empty-handed. Still, not a strip club.

NUDITY RATING ★★★ ( ★★★★ if a background poster showing barebreasted ladies counts) 7F Urban Bldg, 7-13-2 Roppongi, Minato. 03 6447 2037. burlesque-roppongi.com. 7pm-1am MonSat (three shows per night). ¥3,000/hour 7pm-9pm, ¥4,000/hour 9pm-1am.

Promotional feature

LOCAL INSIGHT

Meet the characters of

ROBOT RESTAURANT No expense was spared in dreaming up the players in Tokyo’s most extravagant show. Annemarie Luck picks a few of her favourites…

I

THE GAGA-ESQUE TAIKO WARRIORS Wearing long white wigs and wielding their taiko drum sticks like swords, this impressive all-female troupe will look you dead in the eye as their stage-on-wheels circles the floor, their drum sets lit up like Christmas and warrior-like calls hyping up the energy from the very minute the show begins.

THE BALLAD-LOVING EXTRATERRESTRIALS If this group of musicians had to put out an ad for new recruits, it would read something like this: must love soft-pop-rock, look good in metallics and have a face like an angel, while incongruously managing to look fierce.

Robot suits welcome.

THE BUNNY-EARED SPIDER RIDER Aside from the fembots dripping with bouncy, bikiniclad dancers, the spider rider is like the perfect fantasy woman. She’s part Spice Girl, part Angeline Jolie in ‘Lara Croft’, and straddles her eight-legged vehicle while fighting off a mobile robot. Of course, she wins the battle.

THE BOXING ’BOTS Like being part of the action? Well make yourself known when these chunky guys start hammering each other in the ring. You may just be the one who gets called up to put on a pair of massive boxing gloves and have your turn at pummelling one of the ’bots.

Bring this issue of Time Out Tokyo magazine with you to Robot Restaurant and get ¥1,000 off your bill.

HOW TO BOOK

There are three daily shows, starting at 6.00pm, 7.40pm and 9.20pm, and the format is changed every few months to keep things fresh. You can reserve your spot a couple of days ahead by calling the number below between 9am and 10pm.

The entrance fee is ¥6,000, excluding food and drinks. Shinjuku Robot Bldg, 1-7-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station).

03 3200 5500. www.shinjuku-robot.com. 6pm-11pm daily.

PHOTOGRAPHS: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Arms of steel Annemarie Luck in a robot embrace

s it a restaurant or is it a show? Ever since Robot Restaurant opened its glittering, flashing doors in Shinjuku in July 2012, people have been pondering this question.

To set the record straight, it’s mainly a mind-warping, time-bending show full of largerthan-life characters, but you can purchase a bento box, snacks and drinks before or during the entertainment. Recently, they’ve changed the order of events too, so when you arrive you’re now given half an hour of chatting ’n’ snacking time in the glitzy upstairs lounge. Here you’ll meet the first of the host of OTT personalities – a trio of metallic silver-clad angelic aliens, who serenade you with soothing evergreens to live piano and harp music. I’m not sure if this calm before the storm is intentional, but switching from tinkling ivories to clanging taiko drums is just the start of the sensory overload you’re about to experience…

Film Take a cinematic tour of Tokyo Tokyo is a darling of the big screen. Follow Cal Widdall on a route around the city that visits top locales captured on film

erine The Wolv ere was h Scene of the superhero Zojo-ji featured in ‘The Wolverine’

Jiro, just around the corner.

A little further from the station, perhaps a 20-minute walk heading northwest, is the Imperial Palace and its gardens, in which Tommy Lee Jones strolled around as General MacArthur in 2012’s ‘Emperor’.

Three more stations up the Yamanote brings us to Akihabara and the area’s main street Chuodori, where the most recognisable section of ‘The Wolverine’s’ postfuneral chase scene takes place.

One station west on the Sobu line is Asakusabashi, where you can find the balcony Peter nonchalantly plunges from at the start of ‘The Grudge’. Two stations west and you’ll be in Ryogoku, home of the national sumo stadium and meeting place for James Bond and Aki in ‘You Only Live Twice’.

We’re heading all the way across town to Shinjuku next, preferably via directors’ favourite Yasukuni-dori, the avenue featured most prominently in a ‘Tokyo Drift’ street race. At the nearby Park Hyatt Hotel, take the elevator to the 52nd floor where the New York Bar awaits and the views are as superb as they appear on screen.

You’re probably ready for dinner by now, and where better than Gonpachi Nishi-Azabu, the site of the ‘Kill Bill’

TEMPLE: JEEPNEY/PIXTA; BRIDGE: SEAN PAVONE/SHUTTERSTOCK

Dine under the paper lanterns and bamboo awnings that inspired Quentin Tarantino

restaurant massacre? Take the Oedo line to Roppongi and dine under the paper lanterns and bamboo awnings that inspired Quentin Tarantino to build a similar set in China.

Afterwards, take the Ginza line to Shibuya where, if you’re still hungry, you have a choice between two of Bob Harris’s (Bill Murray) fave spots: yakiniku restaurant Shabuzen or Ichikan. Though Ichikan isn’t cheap – the most budget-friendly course is around ¥6,000 – there’s a chance you’ll meet the chef from the movie, who owns the place in real life.

If you choose Ichikan, be sure to head to nearby nightclub Air, also featured in ‘Lost in Translation’.

Closer to Shibuya Station are two nightlife venues from ‘Babel’: Womb, the setting of the surreal nightclub-insilence scene, and J-pop Cafe where Chieko flashes her ‘hairy monster’.

Once you’ve had enough of professionally sung music, make your way to the Shibuya branch of Karaoke-kan and ask for room 601 (you may need to book beforehand).

As the plaque on the wall boasts, you’ll be warbling in the same booth Johansson and Murray once did.

Best of all, it’s open until 6am, meaning you can stay there until your first train returns you to your bed and, most likely, a hungover day of watching movies set in Tokyo.

For upcoming events and movie reviews see timeout.com/tokyo

Rainbow Bridge (‘Kill Bill’ and ‘Lost in Translation’) 3-33 Kaigan, Minato.

Zojo-ji (‘The Wolverine’) 4-7-35 Shibakoen, Minato. 03 3432 1431. tinyurl.com/TOTzojoji.

Nakagin Capsule Tower (‘The Wolverine’) 8-16-10 Ginza, Chuo.

Wako department store (‘Godzilla’) 4-5-11 Ginza, Chuo. 03 3562 2111. tinyurl.com/TOTwako.

Sukiyabashi Jiro (‘Jiro Dreams of Sushi’) B1F Tsukamoto Sogyo Building, 4-2-15 Ginza, Chuo. 03 3535 3600. tinyurl. com/TOTjiro.

The Imperial Palace, East Garden (‘The Emperor’) 1-1 Chiyoda, Chiyoda.

03 3213 1111. tinyurl.com/TOTpalace.

Suicide balcony/Asakusabashi (‘The Grudge’) 1-2-1 Yanagibashi, Taito.

Ryogoku Kokugikan (‘You Only Live Twice’) 1-3-28 Yokoami, Sumida.

03 3623 5111. tinyurl.com/TOTryogoku.

New York Bar ('Tokyo Drift' and ‘Lost in Translation’) 52F Park Hyatt Tokyo, 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku.

03 5322 1234. tinyurl.com/TOTnewyorkbar.

Gonpachi Nishi-Azabu (‘Kill Bill’) 1-13-11 Nishi-Azabu, Minato. 03 5771 0170. tinyurl.com/TOTgonpachi.

Shabuzen (‘Lost in Translation’) B1 Shibuya Creston Hotel, 10-8, Kamiyamacho, Shibuya. 03 3485 0800.

Ichikan (‘Lost in Translation’) Sun View Heights Daikanyama Bldg. 9-5 Daikanyama, Shibuya. 03 3464 5559.

Air (‘Lost in Translation’) B1F-B2F Hikawa Bldg, 2-11 Sarugakucho, Shibuya.

03 5784 3386. tinyurl.com/TOTair.

Womb (‘Babel’) 2-16 Maruyamacho, Shibuya. 03 5459 0039. tinyurl.com/ TOTwomb.

J-Pop Cafe (‘Babel’) 7F Shibuya Beam, 31-2 Udagawacho, Shibuya. 03 5456 5767. www.j-popcafe.com.

Karaoke-kan Shibuya branch (‘Lost in Translation’) 30-8 Udagawacho, Shibuya. 03 3462 0785.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 69

Film

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e’ll begin at Rainbow Bridge, traversed by Lucy Liu and Uma Thurman in ‘Kill Bill’, and an apparently dishonest taxi driver in ‘Lost in Translation’ (both his starting point and destination are on the opposite side of the city in real life). You can cross the bridge from east to west in 30 minutes on foot but we recommend taking a taxi across and straight to our next location, Zojo-ji Temple, which was the Tokugawa family temple during the Edo period and the scene of the funeral procession for 2013’s slash-em-up film ‘The Wolverine’. Though the two-storey sanmon (temple gate) features predominantly during the procession, the battle that followed was actually shot at the Chinese Garden of Friendship in Sydney.

Next we’re off to Hiroshima, but don’t get comfortable – in the movies it’s only two stops north on the Yamanote line. The unmistakable Nakagin Capsule Tower, a few blocks east of Yurakucho Station, served as the ‘Hiroshima’ love hotel in ‘The Wolverine’. Close by is one of the department stores destroyed

by Godzilla – Wako – and ‘Jiro Dreams of Sushi’s’ eponymous chef plies his trade at Sukiyabashi

MOVIE MAP Your film location guide

Travel & Hotels Hanabi hunt

Travel & Hotels

Japan’s summer fireworks festivals aren’t merely pyrotechnic displays but spectacular battles between the country’s top masters.

Nick Narigon makes his pick

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here are hundreds of hanabi (flowers of fire) festivals throughout the country, usually between July and August, with pyrotechnicians from Japan’s most respected guilds competing with regards to technique, creativity and beauty. The hanabi festivals draw hundreds of thousands of onlookers, with the largest venues attracting over one million, so choosing the right fireworks display to attend and finding a viewing spot is critical.

Savvy hanabi spectators arrive in the morning to stake their claim. Johnny-come-latelys (if you arrive an hour before the starting time, you are late) must elbow their way through huddled masses and crane necks to catch a glimpse of the starmines, warimonos and katamonos.

While you may be better off finding a rooftop party for the best view, spending the day at the riverside to get an early spot isn’t all bad.

Barbecues are aplenty and most hanabi events coincide with the neighbourhood matsuri (summer festival) celebrations. The streets are lined with food vendors, and men, women, boys and girls alike are decked out in their yukatas. This is one occasion when it’s okay to join the crowd.

THE HIDDEN SECRET: ADACHI Compared to the larger festivals in Tokyo, an estimated attendance of 610,000 is considered small. Over 12,000 fireworks are launched above the Arakawa River from Arakawa Nishiaraibashi Ryokuchi Park, with the display visible from a wide range of locations around the river. For a relaxing vantage point, find a spot on the opposite side of the river from the launching ground near Umejima and Gotanno Stations.

July 19, 7.30-8.30pm. Arakawa River (Kitasenju, Umejima Stations).

Flowers of fire Jingu Gaien festival sets off 10,000 fireworks; Chofu sets its hanabi to film scores (above right)

70 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

THE BIG BANG: EDOGAWA In the opening display of this large-scale fireworks show, held jointly by Edogawa in Tokyo and Ichikawa in Chiba, 1,000 fireworks are set off within five seconds. Over one million spectators come to Shinozaki Park to watch the competition between Japan’s top pyrotechnicians, who use over 14,000 fireworks to choreograph the display to classical music.

August 2, 7.15-8.30pm. Shinozaki Park, 1 Kamishinozaki, Edogawa (Shinozaki, Koiwa Stations).

JINGU GAIEN FIREWORKS: ©NIKKANSPORTS SHINBUNSHA

THE ORIGINAL: SUMIDA RIVER Dating back to the 18th century when the rival Tamaya and Kagiya guilds competed for bragging rights, the Sumida River festival is today recognised as the oldest and biggest firework display in Tokyo. Over 20,000 explosions are launched from barges anchored in the river between Asakusa and Mukoujima. What’s more, the summer-festival atmosphere around Asakusa’s Sensoji Temple in July makes the event that much more appealing.

July 26, 7.05-8.30pm. Sumida River, Site 1: between the bridges Sakurabashi and Kototoibashi, Site 2: between the bridges Komagatabashi and Umayabashi. (Kuramae, Asakusa Stations). tinyurl. com/TOTsumida.

FOLLOW THE LIGHT Find your hanabi bliss outside of Tokyo

YOKOHAMA SPARKLING TWILIGHT Each day of this illuminating festival ends with 3,000 fireworks launched from the beach of Yamashita Park.

Following the hanabi, the lighted boats anchored in the harbour twinkle like jewellery floating on the sea.

July 19-20, 7.30-8pm. Yamashita Park and surrounding areas (Motomachi-Chukagai Station).

THE NEW KID: TAMAGAWA Futako-Tamagawa Park was opened to the public in April 2013 and isn’t slated for completion until 2015. Still, that hasn’t stopped organisers from launching one of the most dazzling fireworks displays west of Tokyo. Competing pyrotechnicians from Setagaya and Kawasaki launch 6,000 fireworks each from either side of the Tamagawa River.

August 23, 7-8pm. FutakoTamagawa Park (Futako-Tamagawa Station).

1,000 fireworks are set off within five seconds

For more summer festivals, go to timeout.com/tokyo

KANAGAWA NEWSPAPER FIREWORKS With an astounding 15,000 fireworks, this festival provides one of the few opportunities to see the gigantic Nishakudama fireworks, which spread out 480m in the sky. With nearly 200,000 spectators in attendance, the most popular viewing spots are Minato Mirai 21 and Rinki Park.

August 5, 7-8.30pm. Yokohama (Minatomirai Station).

ATAMI FIREWORKS: COURTESY OF THE ATAMI TOURIST ASSOCIATION

THE J-POP SHOW: JINGU GAIEN This music and fireworks festival takes advantage of the various sports stadiums located in the centre of Tokyo. Spectators can enjoy live J-pop bands at each stadium before watching approximately 10,000 fireworks light up the sky from Jingu Stadium. There is an admission fee to each venue, otherwise take in the view from the streets of Harajuku or Aoyama.

August 16, 7.30-8.30pm (music starts at 5.30pm). Jingu Stadium, 3-1 Kasumigaokacho, Shinjuku (Gaienmae, Kokuritsu-Kyogijo, Shinanomachi, Sendagaya Stations).

THE FILM COMBO: CHOFU For its 32nd annual hanabi celebration, the western suburb of Chofu decided to recognise its connection to the movie industry.

Several film scenes have been shot on the banks of the Tamagawa, and Chofu is home to multiple studios and film-related companies. Dubbed the ‘City of Cinema: Chofu Summer Fireworks’, this festival sees around 8,000 fireworks launched over the Tamagawa, choreographed to popular film scores.

August 24, 6.30-7.30pm. Tamagawa River (Chofu Station). tinyurl.com/TOTchofu.

CHUNICHI NEWSPAPER NAGARA RIVER ALL-JAPAN FIREWORKS FESTIVAL Two hours from Tokyo, this day-long celebration on the banks of the Nagara River in Gifu Prefecture is the largest of its kind in Japan. The unique otohanabi starts at 12pm, with over 300,000 spectators listening to the rhythmic sounds of hanabi accompanied by music. The phenomenal evening display, with fireworks selected by the Japan Fireworks Artist Association, starts at 7.20pm.

July 26, 9am-8.45pm. Nagara River between the bridges Nagarabashi and Kinkabashi (shuttle buses run from Gifu Station). www.gifucvb.or.jp.

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Travel & Hotels

THE BRIGHTEST: TOKYO BAY Set against the backdrop of Tokyo Bay and the Rainbow Bridge, this is arguably the most picturesque fireworks festival in the capital – and the most exclusive. The official viewing spots in the Harumi Pier area sell out quickly and nearby hotels book out months in advance. The festival features 12,000 fireworks launched from barges anchored north of the Rainbow Bridge. Though the bridge is closed to pedestrians during the show, there are still several places throughout Tokyo to witness the spectacle including Odaiba, Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Tower.

August 10, 6.50-8.10pm. Tokyo Bay area, Harumi Pier (Kachidoki, Toyosu, Tsukishima Stations).

ATAMI WATERFRONT FIREWORKS FESTIVAL One hour from Tokyo in Shizuoka Prefecture, this grand fireworks display over Atami Bay has been held for over 60 years throughout summer, autumn and winter. The grand finale of ‘large air Niagara’ fireworks stretches for one kilometre. View the show from the beach or reserve a seat on the Moon Terrace. Hotels have their own reserved seating available, though the show ends early enough to return to Tokyo.

Summer: July 21, 26, August 5, 8, 17, 20 and 29, 8.208.50pm. Autumn: September 15, 8.20-8.45pm. Winter: December 7, 14 and 23, 8.20-8.45pm. Shinsui Park and surrounding areas (take a bus from Atami Station).

STA HER

Travel & Hotels

YFGEO/PIXTA

Tokyo’s summers are hot and humid while Hokkaido’s are anything but. If you really prefer cold to hot, then wait till February when the Sapporo Snow Festival features some of the most creative ice and snow sculpting on earth.

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Eat ice cream

WHAT DO YOU PREFER TO DO AFTER CYCLING?

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You’re a long way from San Francisco but in Hokkaido you’ll enjoy the closest thing to Alcatraz that Japan has to offer: Abashiri Prison Museum. Explore what life was like for some of the Meiji Era’s roughest criminals. www.kangoku.jp/world.

Hokkaido’s Rebun Island is home to Momoiwa-so (www.youthhostel.or.jp/ English/n_momoiwaso.htm), one of the most eclectic accommodations in the country, if not the world. Expect to be bid farewell at the port by a cheer squad and make sure you stay for the semi-mandatory evening ‘meeting’ for some energetic Showa-style singing and dancing. Sign up for the ‘8 hours hike of love and romance’ to see flora that doesn’t exist anywhere else in the country.

KAIDO HOW TO GET TO HOK Tokyo’s Haneda Airport to Hokkaido’s Chitose Airport is reportedly the busiest air route in the world. But if you’ve ever wanted to try a night sleeper train, Tokyo to Sapporo is one of the longest routes to take a high-speed snooze (www.japan-guide.com/e/e2356.html). Other options include taking your motorbike on one of the ferries heading from Aomori to Hakodate (tinyurl.com/TOTtsuga), or a train ride from Tokyo to Oarai (70-minute journey from Ueno Station) and then a ferry direct to Tomakomai (tinyurl.com/TOTtoma).

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No!

SO YOU’RE ADVENTUROUS! FINAL MISSION: VISIT A MEIJI ERA PRISON OR SEE WWII BULLET HOLES?

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Travel & Hotels

Kita no Ice cream Yasan in Otaru sells ice cream flavours ranging from squid ink and sea urchin to beer. Not as bad as it sounds… 1-2-18 Ironai, Otaru. 0134 23 8983.

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BUT WOULD YOU EAT SQUID ICE CREAM?

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No, I do like to mix things up

Yes, I like things like coastal cycling and pretty flora

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Head to Kushiro for Kotan Onsen (Lake Kussharo, Teshikaga-cho, Kawakami, 015 482 2200), an off-the-beaten-path outdoor onsen that’s free 24 hours a day (except Tue & Fri, closed 8am-4pm). The two halves of the onsen are split into ‘male’ and ‘female’, but only by a large rock, so more modest bathers may want to bring a swimsuit. If you want highclass hot water, check out Noboribetsu Grand Hotel (www.nobogura.co.jp/english), an easy day trip from Sapporo with the most luxurious onsen you’ll ever experience.

SO YOU’RE MORE OF A CLASSIC SIGHTSEER?

DO YOU TO ESCA SUMMER

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Hokkaido’s coastlines offer some of the best bicycle routes in Japan. Most domestic airlines will let you fly with your bicycle – check with the airline but usually you can carry your ride in an opaque rinkobukuro (bike bag). For fauna and flora fans, try the lavender fields of Furano.

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HOKKAIDO

HOKKAIDO VER Choosing between Hokkaido and Okinawa? Use our highly scientific guide

72 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

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SO YOU LOOK GOOD IN A WETSUIT, THEN?

DO YOU LIKE YOUR BEACH SECLUDED?

No, I’m a socialite

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Yes, could wear one all day

Yes, the fewer people the better

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Okinawa is the only place in Japan where you can wetsuit dive all year round. Enjoy the many multicoloured fish below the waves or check out the underwater Ryukyu ruins if you’re feeling adventurous. Besides scuba diving, you can enjoy a multitude of watersports including kiteboarding, flyboarding and jet-skiing.

Marine Club Berry (www.seasir.com/ en/berry.htm) offers a particularly wonderful underwater experience called Marine Walk (¥7,500 for 150 minutes), in which you walk on the ocean floor through coral and schools of fish.

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Head straight for Hatenohama beach, located off Okinawa’s Kume Island, where you will literally be surrounded by ocean. This seven-kilometre sandbar is only accessible by tour boat (¥3,500 for a half-day tour from Tomari Fisherina), but you’ll still feel like it’s a personal oasis.

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Bullet holes

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You will find majestic shisa (liondog statues) dotting the Okinawan landscape. If you’re willing to make a trek and want to see the most badass shisa out there, head south of Naha to the great Tomori Stone Lion, which still sports bullet holes from World War II. For more info visit okinawahai.com/ tomori-stone-lions.

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Okinawa serves up the traditional Blue Seal ice-cream brand, loved since 1948. You might also enjoy spending a day poking around the 400 stalls of Makishi Public Market (2-10-1 Matsuo, Naha; find the entrance on Kokusai-dori) in Naha for fresh fish, fruit, veg and local sweets.

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OKINAWA

to decipher which holiday spot you’ll enjoy the most. Words Benjamin Boas

AWA HOW TO GET TO OKIN Planes are the way to get to Okinawa (ferry rides exist, but they take one or two days) and you can catch a flight to Naha on any number of carriers. There’s even a direct service from Tokyo to other smaller islands, including Kume Island. Reserve early and you’ll find that planes can be even cheaper than the shinkansen!

ANA’s Tabiwari (advance purchase) tickets to Naha, bought 60 days in advance, can go for under ¥10,000 in low season.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 73

Travel & Hotels

Play it safe in Okinawa

OKINAWA

Thanks to its subtropical climate, Okinawa is warm all year round, as is its ocean temperature. Even during January and February the average high temperature in Naha is a comfortable 20 degrees Celsius. Summer is hot and humid, so if you’re camping, make sure you’re the type who enjoys being one with the bugs.

MARCOGARRINCHA/SHUTTERSTOCK

No!

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U WANT APE THE R HEAT?

Travel & Hotels

Castle spotting

Ready for takeoff Himeji is nicknamed the ‘White Egret’

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everal hundred years ago it would have been no exaggeration to claim the existence of well over 2,000 castles around Japan. Few ever looked like their famous European counterparts, built with huge slabs of rock – for the most part they were wooden structures taking advantage of high ground and a maze of access paths designed to confuse potential foes.

Not many survive in original form, but some of the reconstructed castles are still well worth going out of your way to see.

EDO CASTLE (THE IMPERIAL PALACE) Home to the Emperor, this one can be glimpsed (and we do mean just glimpsed) right in the middle of Tokyo. Dating all the way back to the mid15th century, and once the castle home of the ruling shogun, the keep was torn down in the late-1860s rush to modernise, so only the foundation stones, some defensive walls and samurai guard quarters remain from the original. Apparently plans are afoot to rebuild a replica before the 2020 Olympics. Chiyoda, Tokyo (Takebashi, Otemachi Stations). 03 3213 1111. sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/ english/index.html.

English due to it appearing like a bird taking to the air – this World Heritage Site has origins in 1333. Over the years warfare took its toll, resulting in frequent bouts of rebuilding, the most recent of which is still underway in many areas of the castle grounds, although the keep itself does date to the early years of the 17th century.

68 Honmachi, Himeji, Hyogo (Himeji Station). 079 285 1146. www.himejicastle.gr.jp/index/English.

NAGOYA CASTLE One of the best examples of traditional Japanese castle architecture, Nagoya Castle is a post-World War II (and much smaller) reconstruction of the original, which dated back to 1521. As the site of some of the most important moments in Japanese medieval history, this is a mustvisit. 1-1 Honmaru, Naka, Nagoya, Aichi (Sengencho, Shiyakusho Stations). www.nagoyajo. city.nagoya.jp/13_english.

Himeji Castle looks like a bird taking to the air

HIMEJI CASTLE Arguably the most beautiful castle in Japan – known as ‘White Egret’ in

OSAKA CASTLE Also a big name in Japanese castle history, Osaka Castle is seen as a symbol of Japan’s third biggest city.

It’s seen its fair share of dramas since it was first built in 1583, including several reconstructions after being damaged by war, fire and even a lightning strike. Today’s version, another post-World War II

74 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

restoration project, was completed in 1997. 1-1 Osakajo, Chuo, Osaka (Osakajo-koen, Tanimachi Yonchome Stations). 06 6941 3044. www.osakacastle.net/english.

TSURUGA CASTLE Supposedly the only castle in Japan with a red roof, Tsuruga Castle (aka Aizu-Wakamatsu Castle) is a 1960s replica of a former castle on the site dating back to 1384. It is particularly beautiful in the winter when deep snows once added an extra layer of defence against potential attackers. Nearby is Mt Iimoriyama, the site where the Byakkotai (White Tiger Corps) boy soldiers committed seppuku (ritual suicide by disembowelment) after believing their castle had been burned down after the fall of the shogunate in 1867. (It hadn’t actually.) 1-1 Outemachi, Aizu-Wakamatsu, Fukushima (Aizu Wakamatsu Station).

0242 27 4005. www.tsurugajo.com/ language/eng.

KUMAMOTO CASTLE First established in 1467, but now a 1960 reconstruction, Kumamoto Castle was once one of the strongest in the nation. Its location in Kyushu meant that for much of its history it was essentially out of harm’s way – at least until 1877 when most of the original structure was destroyed in the Satsuma Rebellion that year.

1-1 Furukyo-machi, Chuo, Kumamoto (Kumamoto Station). 096 352 5900. www.manyou-kumamoto.jp/ contents.cfm?id=251.

Nagoya Castle

Travel tips Tsuruga Castle Hotels abound in the city, and outside peak holiday periods can be booked upon arrival at the English-speaking tourist information office in Aizu-Wakamatsu Station on the Banetsu West line. From Tokyo, take the Tohoku Shinkansen to Koriyama in Fukushima, then change to the Banetsu West line.

Himeji and Osaka Castles Another town with its tourism industry centered on the castle, Himeji has plenty of hotels, which you can book on arrival at Himeji Station. But it may be easier to stay in nearby Osaka and see the two castles in one trip.

Kumamoto Castle For this one, the best option is to take a flight from Tokyo (one hour and 40 minutes). The fact that this is the city’s most noted tourist spot means that hotel rooms are always available and can be booked, in English, at Kumamoto Airport upon arrival.

HIMEJI CASTLE: NORI/PIXTA; NAGOYA CASTLE: YFGEO/PIXTA

Travel & Hotels

As a nation shaped by warfare for well over 1,000 years, Japan has long been a land of castles. Mark Buckton chooses six of the most impressive

SHOWA KINEN KOEN: SATUEI/PIXTA; SAGAMIKO: MATYA1234/PIXTA; LAKE TAMA: MASAMI/PIXTA; KASAI RINKAI KOEN: HIGHWAYDRAGON/PIXTA; OKUTAMA: BLUESURGEON69/PIXTA

DESTINATION: Lake Tama The car-free and virtually flat Tamako Cycling Road runs 10km around Lake Tama. Note that the fact this is not a particularly challenging route means that you’ll probably be weaving through runners and strollers too, which means mamacharis over mountain bikes.

REWARD: A second 10km loop around the lakes takes in scenic woodland and bridges that served as the background for Studio Ghibli’s classic ‘My Neighbor Totoro’. Every weekend in August the nearby Seibuen Amusement Park hosts a fireworks festival that’s best viewed over Lake Tama.

FIND IT: Just south of Tanashi Station (Seibu Shinjuku line), look for the start of the route at Sekimae Gochome crossing, where Route 7 and Inokashira-dori intersect. Here’s a map: tinyurl.com/TOTtamako.

I WANT TO RIDE MY BICYCLE!

Cycling alone can give you that carefree feeling, but if you want to encourage your lazier half to join you, simply sweeten the deal with the promise of a reward at the end, says Byron Kidd of Tokyobybike.com

DESTINATION: Kasai Rinkai Koen While the Tamagawa River cycling path offers a more scenic ride, the Arakawa River path ends at the relaxing Kasai Rinkai Koen on the waterfront of Tokyo Bay. REWARD: Walk the beach, cooling your feet in the water, visit the Kasai Seaside Aquarium or Bird Park, ride the park train or take a 17-minute ride on the 117m-high Ferris wheel.

Nearby Tokyo Disneyland has a fireworks display nightly, and it’s the perfect vantage point to witness the Tokyo Bay and Sumidagawa fireworks festivals away from the hideous crowds.

FIND IT: Head north from anywhere in Tokyo, turn right when you strike the Arakawa River and you’ll eventually reach Kasai Rinkai Koen (tinyurl.com/TOTkasairinkai).

DESTINATION: Sagamiko Starting at Takaosanguchi Station (Hachioji, Tokyo) on the Keio Takao line, head south west on Route 20, climbing the foothills of Mt Takao before enjoying an exhilarating descent to the shore of Sagamiko lake.

REWARD: Sagamiko is a beautiful lake and popular mountainside spot that lures city slickers with a range of mildly diverting attractions, including a tot-friendly amusement park, a garish athletics course dubbed ‘Picasso’s Egg’ and an outdoor barbecue area, brilliantly named the Wild Cooking Garden.

FIND IT: Take the Chuo line from Shinjuku Station to Takao Station; transfer to Keio Takao line for one stop.

DESTINATION: Lake Okutama Fitter cyclists will enjoy the climb from Ome Station (about an hour from Shinjuku Station) to Lake Okutama, formed by Ogouchi Dam, in western Tokyo, but only the truly energetic should continue from here over the mountains to either Uenohara or Musashiitsukaichi Stations – if you do, be prepared for some gruelling climbs.

REWARD: Taking in the 149m Ogouchi Dam and reservoir that supplies Tokyo with its drinking water is worth it. And if you don’t fall into the category of ‘truly energetic’ and you choose not to continue on further from here, then the descent from the dam and lake back to Ome is a blast!

FIND IT: Take the Chuo line from Shinjuku Station to Ome Station. From the station, turn right onto Route 411.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 75

Travel & Hotels

DESTINATION: Showa Kinen Koen With 14km of cycle paths, play-grounds, a water park and numerous outdoor activities, the 163-hectare Showa Kinen Koen is a destination unto itself. Kids will enjoy making mischief in the Children’s Forest play area, where they can immerse themselves in clouds of artificial mist.

REWARD: Located a 15-minute walk from Tachikawa Station, it’s the perfect location to introduce family and friends to the pleasure of cycling under the pretense of a leisurely picnic. Bicycles can be rented for three hours for ¥460 (¥260 for children).

FIND IT: 3173 Midori-cho, Tachikawa, Tokyo. 042 524 1516. www. showakinenpark.go.jp/english.

Getting Around TOEI BUS ONE-DAY ECONOMY PASS Valid for one-day unlimited use of Toei buses around Tokyo. ¥500, www. kotsu.metro.tokyo.jp/eng/services/ bus_ticket.html.

Hot deals Visiting Japan? Flash your foreign passport and get access to a host of discounted tickets

METRO & GRUTT PASS 2014 Combines two Tokyo Metro Oneday Open Tickets and the Tokyo Museum Grutt Pass 2014 to provide discounted entry to 78 points of interest around Tokyo. Valid for two months from the date of initial use. ¥2,800, www.tokyometro.jp/en/ ticket/value/other/.

JR EAST PASS Unlimited travel on all JR East Shinkansen (bullet trains) and limited express trains for five consecutive days. Can be used on any five days within the 14-day validity period from the date of issue.

Only visitors to Japan are eligible. ¥22,000, www.jreast.co.jp/e/ eastpass.

JR KANTO AREA PASS Three days of unlimited travel on JR East Shinkansen and limited express trains in the Kanto region. Only valid on consecutive days. ¥8,300, www. jreast.co.jp/e/kantoareapass/.

JAPAN RAIL PASS Can be used on all JR trains – including shinkansen – as well as buses and ferries during the validity period (7, 14 or 21 consecutive days after exchange). Only visitors

to Japan are eligible; cannot be purchased within Japan. ¥29,11081,870, www.japanrailpass.net.

N’EX TOKYO DIRECT TICKET Fifty percent discount on a oneway ticket for the Narita Express (N’EX) from Narita International Airport (terminals 1 and 2) to major stations in the Tokyo metropolitan area. Not valid for travel to Narita. ¥1,500, www.jreast.co.jp/e/pass/ nex_oneway.html.

TOKYO TOUR TICKET (TOKYO FURII KIPPU) This one-day ticket allows unlimited travel on local and rapid JR East trains within Tokyo, all Tokyo Metro and Toei subway lines, Toei buses, the Nippori-Toneri Liner and the Tokyo Toei Streetcar Arakawa line. ¥1,590, www.jreast.co.jp/e/pass/tokyo_free. html.

76 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

TOKYO METRO 1-DAY OPEN TICKET Valid for a day’s travel on all Tokyo Metro lines. ¥710, www.tokyometro. jp/en/ticket/value/1day/.

COMMON ONE-DAY TICKET FOR TOKYO METRO & TOEI SUBWAY One-day travel on all Tokyo Metro and Toei subway lines. ¥1,000, www.tokyometro.jp/en/ticket/ value/1day/.

TOEI ONE-DAY ECONOMY PASS Unlimited use on the Toei subway lines, Toei buses, Toei Streetcar (Toden) Arakawa line and the Nippori-Toneri Liner for one day. ¥700, www.kotsu. metro.tokyo.jp/eng/tickets/value.html.

RINKAI LINE ONE-DAY TICKET Unlimited one-day travel on the Rinkai line. ¥700, www.twr.co.jp/lg/ en/fare.html.

TOKYO SKYTREE WITH SUMIDA AQUARIUM Includes entry to Tokyo Skytree and Sumida Aquarium, and limited oneday railway pass for the area. Valid for one day.

Price varies, tinyurl.com/TOTskytreesumida.

MT TAKAO TICKET A one-day round-trip ticket from any station on the Keio or Keio Inokashira lines to Takaosanguchi Station, as well as a one-way or round-trip ticket for the Takaosan Cable Car or Lift. 20 percent discount, www.keio.co.jp/english/ riding/discount.html.

For more essential city info go to timeout.com/tokyo

SKYTREE TOWER: LEUNGCHOPAN/PIXTA

Getting Around

YURIKAMOME ONE-DAY PASS One-day unlimited travel on the Yurikamome line. ¥820, www. yurikamome.co.jp/en/fare_ticket/ other_ticket/.

Going underground?

Welcometo tothe theworld’s world’smost mostefficient efficienttransport transport system Welcome

Getting Around Around Foryour yourfull, full,up-to-the-minute up-to-the-minuteguide guideto toTokyo Tokyovisit visit www.timeout.com/tokyo www.timeout.com/tokyo 77 77 For

Getting Around

Summer is here!

In Tokyo, that means festivals and more festivals – here are ten to get you started 1. Iriya Asagao Matsuri (Morning Glory Festival) It’s worth getting up early – as in 5am early – for Japan’s largest morning glory flower festival. Head to Iriya Kishimojin Temple to peruse the 120 flower booths and hundred-odd festival stalls. July 6-8. Iriya Kishimojin Temple, 1-12-16 Shitaya, Taito.

Getting Around

2. Shimanrokusennichi (Chinese Lantern Plant Festival) One of the biggest festivals held at Sensoji annually.

Since the Edo period, it is believed that a single prayer to the temple during the fair is equivalent to 46,000 visits. Don’t forgot to pick up a pot of Chinese lantern plants while you’re there. Jul 9-10.

Sensoji, 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito.

3. Chiyoda-ku Noryo no Yube (Floating Lantern Festival) See the Chidorigafuchi moat of the Imperial Palace get filled with 700 paper lanterns, creating beautiful ambient lighting, and enjoy the choir performance that adds to the atmosphere. An exclusive boat ride will be granted to those who make reservations beforehand. Jul 13. Chidorigafuchi Boathouse, 2 Sanbancho, Kudan-Minami, Chiyoda.

4. Mitama Matsuri Around 300,000 people flock to Yasukuni Shrine during its annual Mitama Matsuri, one of Tokyo’s biggest Obon festivals that’s intended to honour the dead. First held in 1947, the festival is best known for the 30,000 lanterns that light the way to the shrine each evening. July 13-16. Yasukuni Shrine, 3-1-1 Kudankita, Chiyoda. tinyurl.com/TOTmitama.

5. Kagurazaka Matsuri Usually one of Tokyo’s most refined neighbourhoods, Kagurazaka gets a little unruly in July as hordes of yukata wearers and awaodori dancers flood the streets. On the first two evenings, you can join a guided tour of the area, but the main action happens at the weekend, when teams of dancers make their way along Waseda-dori. July 23-26. Waseda-dori (street) and surrounding area in Kagurazaka.

6. Fukagawa Hachiman Festival The denizens of this Taito neighbourhood carry a fleet of mikoshi (portable shrines) through the streets, while getting doused with water by the crowd. That’s just the highlight of a busy few days of festivities that include traditional parades and ceremonies. Aug 13-17. Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine (1-20-3 Tomioka, Koto) and surrounding area.

7. Roppongi Hills Bon Odori This lively event features traditional Obon dancing performed by yukata-clad dancers in a purpose-built arena. Surrounding stalls cater to hungry crowds with all the usual festival fare. Aug 22-24. Roppongi Hills Arena, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato.

8. Koenji Awaodori Twelve thousand dancers pile out on to the streets of Koenji during the annual Awaodori, undoubtedly one of Tokyo’s most energetic festivals – and one with crowds to match. While the action starts at 5pm, you’ll need to arrive much earlier if you want to snag one of the best viewing spots. Aug 23-24.

Around Koenji. koenji-awaodori.com/english.

9. Super Yosakoi The traditional yosakoi dance started life in Kochi in 1954 to help revitalise the struggling post-war economy. Tokyo’s own Super Yosakoi festival, meanwhile, has been going for just over a decade and sees 90-odd teams of brightly attired dancers trying to outdo each other to the rhythm of the naruko – a type of clapper that the people of Kochi originally used to scare birds away from their fields.

Aug 23-24. Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya.

10. Shinagawa Shukuba Matsuri Started in 1990, this annual festival tries to educate young ’uns about the area’s history, and features taiko drumming and parades of people in traditional costumes alongside the less era-specific flea markets and marching bands. Sep 27-28. Along KyuTokaido Street, Shinagawa.

78 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

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Come say konnichiwa at the…

Time Out Café & Diner

Missing us between issues? Come to our place and hang out!

T

he physical outpost of Time Out Tokyo brings a dash of cosmopolitan class to Ebisu – and it’s a great place to while away a few hours.

Housed in the upstairs floor of key live venue Liquidroom, the Time Out Café & Diner offers an ideal spot for lazy lunches, coffee sessions and meetings. The interior is styled like a New York loft eatery with skylights, exposed brickwork, an eclectic mix of seating and a large central table that’s ideal for bigger gatherings.

Order up some international food from the open-plan kitchen – specialities include the hearty pastrami sandwich and the mouthwatering Yatsugatake Premium Burger – and browse the library of Time Out books and magazines from around the globe. Alternatively, slurp a cappuccino, Chimay beer or cocktail, then check out the latest exhibition in the adjacent Kata gallery. And did we mention we have free Wi-Fi? Because we’re nice like that.

2F Liquidroom, 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya. 03 5774 0440. www.tinyurl.com/TOTcafe. Ebisu Station.

11.30am-11.30pm Mon-Thu, 11.30-5am Fri, 1pm-5am Sat, 1-10pm Sun & public hols.

Get all of our maps in Shibuya Pay a visit to the Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre

Pick up our maps and magazine at one of these venues:

You can now get your copy of Time Out Tokyo magazine delivered – we ship internationally too!

Please visit time-outtokyo.myshopify. com.

Stations: Shinjuku station,Tokyo Metro Ueno station,Tokyo Metro Roppongi station,Toei Oedo Line Asakusa station,Toei Asakusa Line Tochomae station,Toei Oedo Line and more stations Tourist information centres: Tokyo Metropolitan Goverment Headquarters Shibuya Station Tourist Infomation Centre Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Centre Haneda Airport Narita Airport and more tourist information centres

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egular Time Out readers will know about our popular series of free maps: pocketsized guides to the multifarious delights this city has to offer. They’re hard to miss these days – as well as our ever-popular ‘101 Things to Do in Shibuya’ edition and the comprehensive ’88 Things to Do in Tokyo’, we’ve come out with maps for Roppongi, Shinjuku and Nihonbashi,

in addition to the recent ’50 Things to do in Tokyo for Business Travellers’, produced in collaboration with Japanese airline ANA. Each edition squeezes the best of the capital into a compact pamphlet, complete with a city map, and we’ve included everything from offbeat art galleries and otaku meccas to ancient shrines and hipster hangouts.

80 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

All of these publications, along with back issues of our magazine, are available to pick up at Shibuya Station’s tourist information centre, conveniently located in the underground passage on the second basement floor of Shibuya Station.

The English-speaking guides will help you stock up, provide sightseeing tips, and assist you in navigating the bowels of the cavernous station itself.

Hotels that have Les Clefs d’Or Japan member concierge: ANA Intercontinental Tokyo The Peninsula Tokyo Palace Hotel Tokyo Park Hyatt Tokyo Grand Pacific Le Daiba Mandarin Oriental,Tokyo Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel Grand Hyatt Tokyo Conrad Tokyo Hotel Okura Tokyo The Ritz Carlton Tokyo Tokyo Prince Hotel Park Tower and more hotels Note: If you can’t find the map you’re looking for, this probably means we’ve temporarily run out of stock. Please be patient while we work on the next print run.

Please direct any advertising queries to sales@timeout.jp.

CAFÉ: KISA TOYOSHIMA; INFORMATION CENTER: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Shops: Tokyu Hands Shibuya Daikanyama Tsutaya Books Tower Records Shibuya Books Kinokuniya Tokyo and more shops

Mount Fuji, the muse

Inspiring cults, artists and salarymen, the sacred World Heritage site gives meaning to all. Words Takeo Funabiki

Volatile beauty Her unpredictability is part of her allure

MAIN IMAGE: KAZEWOKANJITE/PIXTA; MINI FUJI: ERI ITO

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nly 50 years ago, Mount Fuji could be seen from anywhere in Tokyo. Raised in Setagaya, I saw the mountain clearly in both mornings and evenings when traversing the Odakyu line railway crossing. The depiction of a young migrant from the countryside renting a place at ‘Fuji View Apartments’ to start his Tokyo life was a staple of old-time TV dramas, and those in the know say that there are no fewer than 24 ‘Fujimi-zaka’ (‘Fuji View Hills’) in the city. Despite the geographical distance, the people of Edo felt a particular closeness to Mount Fuji.

In contrast, the gentle folk of Kyoto, inhabitants of Japan’s old capital and centre of culture, viewed Fuji as part of the rough and untamed eastern lands. Until the early Heian period (7941185), the mountain was a highly active volcano, and the classic Sarashina Diary described it as a place where ‘…smoke ascends, while fire blazes visibly at dusk’. This was written in 1020, when it seems that the volcano still occasionally spewed fire. The eruptions grew weaker, however, and when the Edo

era began in the early 1600s, the mountain’s image had softened considerably.

THE FUJI CULT When seen from Edo, Mount Fuji has a gentle foot and a gorgeous snowcapped peak, but also carries the threat of a volcano – a major eruption again occurred in 1707, around 100 years after Edo was founded.

This one mountain brings those two aspects together. In stark contrast to Kyoto’s mist-wrapped Higashiyama, Fuji’s dual existence is a perfect fit for the size and muscular personality of Edo/Tokyo, the giant man-made metropolis.

In addition, Edoites’ feelings for Mount Fuji later surpassed simple fondness and assumed a religious character. Innumerable religious groups in Edo were named Fuji Koh, each of these dedicated to praying to and worshipping the mountain.

The Fuji cult had two aspects: one a relatively hidden theme of nature worship, in which mountains, waterfalls, rocks and other natural things were worshipped as kami

The Fuji cult had two aspects: nature worship and asceticism

(gods), and the other an intense aspect that produced believers who devoted themselves to asceticism in Mount Fuji’s caves, some even ‘withdrawing from the world’ and fasting themselves to death. Suffice to say this religious movement was lively enough for the Shogunate to eventually crack down on it.

THE ARTISTS’ IMPRESSION The ukiyo-e master Katsushika Hokusai expressed Edoites’ love and awe of the sacred mountain in his ‘36 Views of Mount Fuji’.

His most famous work, ‘The Great Wave off Kanagawa’, depicts Fuji in the background of the stormy sea.

Hokusai also drew the mountain as seen from a variety of locations and in different situations, making his prints very popular. Most of them show Fuji as seen from Edo, but a few depict views from as far as Nagoya.

Aside from the exceptional ‘Fine Wind, Clear Morning’ that shows the mountain at sunrise, Mount Fuji is portrayed in small size in each of these prints. This demonstrates how the peak rises from a low, flat plain and can be seen clearly even from afar – one of the reasons why, despite the distance, the people of Edo made Mount Fuji their own.

CLIMB A MINI FUJI The Fujizuka mounds, which remain scattered all over the city even today, are a very Edo-like and interesting part of the city’s history. Built from real Fuji lava, these ‘mountains’ range from a few metres to 10m in height and were constructed for the Fuji cult’s ritual purposes. Women, who were not permitted to climb the real Fuji, and weak elderly people could scale these mounds as a substitute for the actual mountain. Interestingly, the Fujizuka thus express the down-to-earth and pragmatic aspect of Edo culture. Nearly 100 of them still stand today, with one of the most popular ones found at Hato no Mori Hachiman Shrine: 1-124 Sendagaya, Shibuya (Sendagaya Station). 03 3401 1284. tinyurl.com/ TOThatomori.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 81

You know you’re in Tokyo when…

You can scoop your own goldfish

T

here’s something magical about the summer festivals here. The heat, the smoky food stalls, the colourful lanterns, the ondo beats, the yukatas… and the strangely enticing challenge of trying to scoop up a goldfish with a paper net that seems to disintegrate the minute it touches the water. Here we give you invaluable tips on how to come out a winner in this and four other Japanese summer festival activities. Just be sure you have a goldfish bowl waiting at home for the little orange critter.

Draw a string

Carve the candy mould (katanuki)

Scoop a goldfish (kingyo sukui) Rules: Scoop the goldfish using a poi, made of a flimsy paper net and plastic frame. You’re allowed to keep playing until the net is completely torn.

How to win: Originating in the Edo era, Kingyo Sukui has become one of the key games at summer festivals. The paper net is super fragile so be sure to dip the entire poi into the water (it tears easier if only partly wet) and put it in at an angle to reduce water resistance. Never chase the fish – let them come to you – and scoop the goldfish from its head. Bouncy super balls are often used as alternatives too.

Rules: Carve out a candy shape (made of flour, starch and sugar) using a needle or toothpick, without breaking or cracking the dough. Successful carvers are rewarded with a prize.

How to win: Katanuki requires concentration and focus on the hands. Moulds usually come in shapes of stars, animals and flowers – pick the simplest shape to start with as the more intricate the mould, the easier it is to crack.

Let them eat water candy (mizuame) Pop a cork gun Rules: Use a toy cork gun to shoot down as many prize objects as you like. You shoot ’em, you get to keep ’em.

How to win: Sound easy? Be prepared for how difficult it actually is to knock down the prizes from the shelves. The corks are so light and soft that even when you think you’re aiming perfectly, your ‘bullet’ bounces back at you like a, well, cork. Make sure to point as close to the target as possible, and aim for the snacks – they’re far easier to knock down.

Rules: Buy, twist and eat.

How to win: Okay, this one’s not a game, but to win at eating mizuame (made by converting starch to sugar), pick up two of them at once and join their candy heads together to form one big blob of sweetness. Holding onto the chopstick ends, twist, turn and stretch the blob and watch as it becomes fluffier and grows in size. All the while taking care not to let any melt and fall onto the ground.

In the next issue of Time Out Tokyo…

Style in the city Who’s wearing it, making it and selling it

A world of art Get your inspiration fix right here

82 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Available across Tokyo from September 2014!

WORDS: REIKO KUWABARA; ILLUSTRATIONS: KENTO IIDA

Festival fun

Rules: Survey the prizes hanging inside a see-through container. Choose from about 1,000 strings and hope the one you pick leads to the prize you love the most.

How to win: Wear your lucky hat. This is not a challenge of skill or wit; whether you win a brill or booby prize literally just depends on which string you choose to pull. There are about 1,000 strings to choose from, all of which lead to some sort of prize, so you’ll never truly lose.