Time Out Japan #2 / English

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JAPAN BEYOND THE ALGORITHM

I, TOKYO Shigesato Itoi and Jimbocho CEO, Hobonichi Co, Ltd The announcement of Jimbocho as Time Out’s World’s Coolest Neighbourhood for 2025 was a proud moment for Shigesato Itoi. The creator of the massively popular Hobonichi Techo planner as well as popcultural milestones like the legendary Mother (aka EarthBound) series of role-playing games feels a special bond with the ’hood.

Itoi moved his company offices to Jimbocho in 2020, but his relationship with the area goes much deeper than that.

How did you react to Jimbocho being named the world’s coolest neighbourhood?

I was surprised! But happy, of course. I’ve long had a feeling that this place was due for more attention – it just happened sooner than I expected.

Why did you decide to move your office to Jimbocho?

Before relocating to Jimbocho, we were based in Omotesando – one of the most sophisticated parts of Tokyo, full of luxury labels and world-class fashion. But those high-end boutiques have very little to do with most people’s daily lives. One day I was in Jimbocho, just having some ramen and then relaxing at an old-school coffee shop,

and thought, ‘I can’t have this experience in Omotesando.’ Jimbocho is full of eateries where anyone – students, office workers, whoever – can go grab a delicious lunch, no reservations needed. I’ve always sought to make things for everyone, not just the elite.

Jimbocho is a place where that feels possible.

Is there a connection between Mother and Jimbocho?

Mother was actually born in Jimbocho – we created the games in this old building there that housed the Tokyo office of Nintendo.

Katsuman, the tonkatsu restaurant that appears in the game, was based on an eatery we used to go to in Kanda.

Carp Tokyo is Shigesato Itoi’s favourite okonomiyaki joint. Grab a seat by the counter and watch the tirelessly talkative proprietress cook up a picture-perfect Hiroshimastyle serving right in front of you.

Find out more online – check out Time Out Tokyo and Osaka GO↓

Carp Tokyo à3-5 Kanda-Kajicho, Chiyoda, Tokyo.

Cover

Art direction: Steve Nakamura @steve_nakamura_tokyo Photography: Takeshi Hanzawa Hair, make-up: Tomoko Okada

Acting Editor-in-Chief Marcus Webb

Deputy Editor, online Genya Aoki

Deputy Editor Ili Saarinen

Digital Editor Kaila Imada

Editors Jasmina Mitrovic Shota Nagao Kosuke Hori Kaoru Hoshino Karin Minamishima

Photographers Keisuke Tanigawa Kisa Toyoshima Manabu Morooka Designers Soraya Tengan Henri Qian

Administration Momo Ando

Executive Vice President Akiko Toya

Editorial Support Hakuhodo

President/ Publisher Hiroyuki Fushitani

ORIGINAL Inc. 101, 5-9-9 Hiroo, Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0012 +81 (0)3 5792 5721 www.timeout.com/tokyo Advertising and general enquiries: info@timeout.jp

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JAPAN BEYOND THE ALGORITHM

Japan beyond the algorithm A guide to logging off and rediscovering the joys of analogue life Put your phone down; it’s time to get physical. Japan may sometimes get mocked for sticking with seemingly obsolete technology like faxes, CDs and personal stamps, but in our era of AI slop and questionably calibrated algorithms, there’s plenty to appreciate about the country’s dedication to the analogue, tactile and authentic.

So here we are, inviting you to ditch the digital and explore offline Japan; its immersive vinyl bars, vibrant zine scene, film photography and neighbourhood cinemas. Over the next few pages, you’ll find all that, plus a tiny café tucked away in a former factory, a secret liquor store-bar in suburban Tokyo, seriously sweat-worthy saunas, and a make-believe post office on a remote island in the Seto Inland Sea. Oh, and fear not – there’s plenty of Insta-friendly material in there, too.

TAKESHI HANZAWA

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WHO’S LAUGHING NOW

Japan’s most fearless comedian Yuriyan Retriever serves up scares with unhinged love-horror story ‘Mag Mag’ – and shares what films inspire her the most. By Genya Aoki

She’s been crowned Japan’s greatest solo comic, won the country’s ‘W’ contest for best comedienne and wreaked havoc on America’s Got Talent twice. So after scaling the Olympus of comedy, where does Yuriyan Retriever go next? To the movies, of course. After an off-the-cuff remark on TV about pursuing directing led to a call from an unnamed producer, things escalated quickly: The Nara native’s debut film, romance-horror odyssey Mag Mag, premiered at Beyond Fest in LA – where she’s been based since 2024 – last September.

Heartbreak to haunting

‘Mag Mag draws on my own romantic experiences. When I shared the agony of unrequited love, my feelings of longing and a one-time obsession with someone who wouldn’t look my way with my producer, I was told my experience would make perfect horror fodder [laughs].

‘I also put a lot of thought into the film’s Japanese elements like the sake, the shots of old-fashioned Japanese houses and the nursery rhyme-esque theme song.’

Finding her voice

‘Being in charge of a production has changed me. As director, I had to constantly articulate my thoughts unambiguously. It’s made me more selfish [laughs], but also forced me to realise I often didn’t really know what I like. So I turned making myself clear into a daily habit.

I’ve overcome my hesitancy and am now more likely to communicate what I really want – even if it’s just something like what I’m going to have for lunch.’

‘Mag Mag’ is set for a February 6 release in Japan.

3 films that shaped Yuriyan Retriever Back to the Future (1985)

‘The starting point of my fascination with cinema and America – and my infatuation with Michael J Fox. If it wasn’t for this film, Mag Mag wouldn’t exist.’

Misery (1990)

‘In university, I empathised with Kathy Bates’s deranged nurse character. I later realised how worked up I’d get when talking about anger, and channelled this feeling into Sanae [the vengeful protagonist of Mag Mag].’

A Clockwork Orange (1971)

‘Mag Mag’s scenography was inspired

by Stanley Kubrick’s obsessively constructed audiovisual world, where ultraviolence meets classical music and the fashionable strikes an unsettling balance with the disgusting.’

A Clockwork Orange is available on streaming services. © Warner Bros. Japan LLC. Blu-ray & DVD available via Happinet Media Marketing Corp. © 2011 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. All rights reserved.

TAKESHI HANZAWA

Find out more online – check out Time Out Tokyo and Osaka GO→

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JAPAN BEYOND THE ALGORITHM

TANGIBLE TREASURES LISTEN Immerse yourself in vintage tunes

This spacious Osaka listening bar only opened in 2016, but the auditory world that awaits inside comes straight from the 1950s and ’60s. Vintage Altec A7 speakers play classic jazz and reggae at a pleasant, conversationfriendly volume, inviting you to put down your phone and take in the tunes while sipping the bar’s signature Wagyu Old Fashioned cocktail or nibbling on some oysters. Take your time to really engage with the music; this is a space that rewards patient listeners handsomely.

VINYL DESTINATION Kosuke Hori explores the places sustaining Japan’s love for physical records Japan’s thriving ecosystem of record stores is an object of international wonder and longing.

DJs, diggers and casual music fans alike travel from around the globe to shop their way through the country’s countless repositories of analogue treasures, and often return home with suitcases filled to bursting with finds.

But the country’s love for vinyl goes beyond retail. What was once the only operating record factory in Asia keeps humming in Yokohama.

Listening bars from Tokyo to Tokushima boast vast music collections and sound systems tuned to pin-drop perfection.

And a sprawling community of aficionados keeps the scene fresh and honest. Japan’s record culture deserves to be explored in depth; here are three places to start.

Inc & Sons àCBM Bldg B1F, 2-3-12 Awajimachi, Chuo, Osaka. inc-sons.com.

MAKE

BUY Make finds at the record factory

In the late 2000s, Toyo Kasei’s Suehiro factory in coastal Yokohama was the only active record pressing plant in Asia. In the face of calls to withdraw from the business, the company’s founder held firm – and was soon vindicated when quality-conscious music enthusiasts the world over started flocking back to physical media.

Famed for its borderline obsessive quality assurance process, Toyo Kasei is a trusted name especially in Southeast Asia, where demand is high for made-inJapan vinyl. The company is also noted for its rare ability to conduct the entire record-production process in house, from cutting and pressing to printing custom labels. Keep an eye out for irregular open-door events and record markets.

Toyo Kasei à1-1-45 Suehirocho, Tsurumi, Yokohama, Kanagawa. toyokasei.co.jp/new.

Dig for jazz rarities

Yusuke Ogawa is no ordinary record dealer. When he’s not busy sourcing obscure spiritual or free jazz pressings or organising the neat shelves of his store into alphabetical order, the Koenji-based scene impresario writes guides to specific times or styles of jazz or supervises the reprinting of rare releases.

‘Secondhand records in Japan tend to be in really good condition compared to many other countries,’ he says. ‘Maybe it’s because vinyl collectors here handle the product with great care.’ Digging at Universounds can open up doors to new worlds even for seasoned aficionados. ‘I still often get surprised,’ Ogawa says. ‘Even some seriously obscure jazz records have Japan-exclusive releases.’

Universounds àPlaza U 202, 3-46-9 Koenji-Minami, Suginami, Tokyo. universounds.net.

JAPAN BEYOND THE ALGORITHM

PAPER PARADISE

Indulge in the joys of print across Japan.

By Genya Aoki

RISOGRAPH

When’s the last time you sat down to write, draw or print something on paper? If you live in Japan, maybe it wasn’t that long ago. While digitisation increasingly drives physical media to the periphery elsewhere around the world, this country’s love affair with print endures. Whether you prefer writing a letter on paper with 1,400 years of history, making your own Risographprinted zine or whiling away the hours at a community bookstore, here’s a few options for becoming a card-carrying member of Japan’s paper party.

Become a Riso artist

A tiny corner of the third floor at Tokyu Plaza Harajuku Harakado is dedicated to the art and craft of Risograph printing – a Japan-born technique combining silkscreen, photocopying and lithography, and cherished today especially by zinemakers and artists. Here you can take the first steps towards creating your own ‘Riso art’ by signing up for a Risograph workshop (advance reservation required). A great one for getting started is Hard Copy Club, a class that offers the opportunity to Riso-print phone photos, lending them a distinctively retro vibe.

Copy Corner àTokyu Plaza Harajuku Harakado 3F, 6-31-21 Jingumae, Shibuya, Tokyo. think-of-things.com/pages/copy-corner.

MAGAZINES

Appreciate some storied paper

Want to leave an impression with a handwritten letter or note? Scribble your message on some decorative karakami paper, imported from China in the eighth century and used by ancient nobles for poetry, painting and calligraphy. This studio and shop in Kyoto carries a selection of convenient notepaper and card sets made from the still-fancy stuff.

Kamisoe

Witness the future of print

à11-1 Murasakino Higashi-Fujinomoricho, Kita, Kyoto. kamisoe.com.

Read up on the ancient capital

Get a crash course to Kyoto culture at this well-loved local bookstore in the heart of the city. In addition to countless tomes organised into imaginative categories, you’ll find a wide selection of stationery and fun knick-knacks sure to spark your imagination.

Neutral Colors

Ogaki Book Store

àneutral-colors.com.

àSuina Muromachi 1F, 78 Kankobokocho, Shijo-dori Muromachi Higashi-iru, Shimogyo, Kyoto. books-ogaki.co.jp/stores/kyoto-honten.

MITOYO TOURISM & EXCHANGE AUTHORITY

This publisher and magazine run by travel and culture mag Transit’s former editor-inchief Naonori Kato is a true one-stop shop.

Neutral Colors prints, binds and distributes all its products independently – and its proprietary printing method, a combination of offset and Risograph techniques, results in some of the prettiest physical mags out there.

LETTERS

Send undeliverable mail

The star-shaped Awashima Island in the Seto Inland Sea is home to a mysterious post office open only for three hours per week. Between 1pm and 4pm on Saturdays, the Missing Post Office accepts unaddressed postcards – and welcomes anyone interested in reading the anonymous messages left by past visitors.

The Missing Post Office à1317-2 Takumacho Awashima, Mitoyo, Kagawa. mitoyo-kanko.com/eng/facility/missing-post-office.

The Missing Post Office was created as part of an art project and is not affiliated with Japan Post. Submitted postcards become the copyright of the Missing Post Office (artist Saya Kubota).

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JAPAN ON FILM

JAPAN BEYOND THE ALGORITHM

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Film isn’t just for purists anymore. In a world where instantly editable digital snapshots are everywhere, all the time, photography enthusiasts the world over are developing a newfound appreciation for moments recorded on physical media. Here’s a small sample of what Japan looks like when captured with intent, courtesy of four film-focused photographers.

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6 PHOTOGRAPHERS ON THIS PAGE 1, 2 and 6 Shota Ashino @srg_ashino 3 Fumihiko Suzuki @fumihiko_suzuki 4 and 5 Sara Masuda @sara_photo_912

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7 Shiori Iwakura @iwakurashiori

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JAPAN BEYOND THE ALGORITHM

HOT TIPS 1

Drink plenty of water before a sauna session.

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Dry your body before entering a relaxation area or sitting on a chair.

And if they offer a pail of water, splash your seat after you’re done.

How to get a hang of Japan’s sauna scene.

By George Matsuo Sweating it out in a sauna can be serious business in Japan. The country’s steam room scene revolves around totonou – the canonical sauna term that means to be ‘orderly’ or ‘in harmony’. More specifically, it describes the blissful state one reaches after a cycle of sauna, cold plunge and meditation. Serious sauna heads often describe the sensation as euphoric and dreamlike, as if ascending to a new astral plane.

Sound like a bunch of hyperbole? Perhaps, but there’s no denying that as sauna culture has exploded in Japan over the last decade, the country has developed a distinctive and often near-esoteric approach to hightemperature relaxation. Aficionados debate

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Thoroughly wash your hair and body before entering a sauna.

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When you’re finished, dry your body thoroughly; you should not be dripping in the changing rooms.

the ideal number of sauna-to-plunge-toback-again cycles required to truly totonou, and an entire industry of sauna merchmakers hawking everything from hats and mats to custom towels has sprung up to cater to true believers.

Meanwhile, the saunas themselves are better and more numerous than ever. Many even compete with experiential factors – music, amenities and the availability of aufguss, where infused water is poured over hot stones and steam is circulated with towels. Find our favourite locations in greater Tokyo online over at Time Out Tokyo, and keep the following basic pointers in mind when wading into the scene:

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After exiting the sauna, rinse off any sweat before going into the cold bath – and don’t dunk your head (only up to your neck).

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If you’re feeling sick at all, stay home. Don’t be the one to spread illness in a shared space.

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JAPAN BEYOND THE ALGORITHM

Dream weaver What drives Chisato Tsumori after 35 years on the front lines of fashion Even among Japan’s famously idiosyncratic fashion royalty, Chisato Tsumori stands out. Her namesake Tsumori Chisato label, noted for its fantastical combinations of handmade embroidery, glitter and vibrant illustrations, made its international debut in Paris in 2003 and has since developed a worldwide fan base enamoured with its creator’s poetic, dreamlike aesthetic. Having just celebrated 35 years in the industry, the 71-year-old Tsumori continues to walk her own path. Here’s what keeps her going and motivated.

What inspires you nowadays?

I’ve loved animation ever since I was little – Osamu Tezuka and Disney, in particular – always imagining all sorts of things in my head. That hasn’t changed to this day. My favourite things are the source of my ideas, and they’ve remained the same for 35 years.

Once I got into travelling, I would absorb unfamiliar landscapes and colour palettes and connect them to my work. When the pandemic made it impossible to travel, I started going on journeys in my mind. I expand my imagination by fantasising about fictional worlds. I enjoy thinking of things like what outer space might look like, and what creatures might live there.

You’re known for your commitment to artisanship. What’s special about working by hand?

I’m an analogue purist. Whenever I'm presenting a new collection, I draw directly onto backdrop paper and carve foam boards to create the three-dimensional parts.

Everything you see is handmade.

When I work with my hands, I feel as if their warmth, the human touch, infuses the pieces. I prioritise natural materials like cotton, silk and linen whenever possible.

I wear only my own label’s clothes every day, from daily wear to pajamas. Since I’m my own biggest customer, I design honestly, according to my own feelings. Seeing others find joy in that makes me truly happy.

I have a bit of a contrarian streak, so if I were to ask ChatGPT to tell me what’s mainstream, I’d probably think, ‘So that’s what I won’t do, then’ [laughs].

My Harajuku showroom is currently open only on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. We operate on a made-toorder basis: we create samples first, and production only begins after a customer places their order. This allows for sustainable manufacturing and the reduction of waste.

What’s your favourite restaurant?

I mostly eat Japanese food these days. Places like Ohitsuzen Tanbo and Okamado Meshi Torafuku serve delicious rice – and they let you go for seconds!

Find out more online – check out Time Out Tokyo and Osaka GO→

Three places keeping Tokyoites well fed year round

KEISUKE TANIGAWA | MANABU MOROOKA

NEIGHBOURHOOD EATS

Mia Mia Kuramae

Sanshuya Ginza

Sakeno Mitsuya

Housed in a beautifully renovated 120-year-old rice shop, groovy café Mia Mia’s second location is a friendly coffee joint serving top-notch espressobased drinks from early morning to 10pm. In the evenings, it transforms into a cosy bar with warm vinyl tunes, where locals and travellers mingle, laugh and swap stories. Stayed a little too long? No worries – there’s a ryokan inn just upstairs.

At the heart of ritzy Ginza is a time warp to a simpler – and considerably less swanky – Tokyo. A convivial izakaya, Sanshuya has been delivering satisfying and affordable dishes since 1968. It stays busy till closing time with local office workers drawn to its reliably excellent food. Meals begin with a small seafood appetiser before moving on to heartier fare with an emphasis on produce from Toyosu fish market.

The more than 100-year-old Mitsuya liquor store in Asagaya stocks a whopping 200 varieties of sake from breweries around the country, plus a great selection of domestic wine and craft beer. Its casual in-store stand bar lets you sample from any bottle on the shelves for as little as ¥500. The procedure for drinking at the bar can be a little tricky to figure out, so ask the staff if you’re unsure – and keep an eye out for their sushi nights, when you can pair your tipple with excellent seafood served up by a visiting chef.

à2-3-2 Kojima, Taito. @miamia_kuramae.

à2-3-4 Ginza, Chuo.

à1-13-17 Asagaya-Minami, Suginami. x.com/saketoyou0328.

MIA MIA KURAMAE

Just being served a warm meal can make you feel cherished – and having your food cooked and brought over by people who care about their craft makes the experience all that more satisfying. Read on for three laid-back Tokyo eateries where locals and visitors alike can enjoy such special everyday moments.

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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

A taste of the high life in Omotesando In a city packed with global brands, Intersect by Lexus Tokyo stands out with its tasteful mix of style, comfort, music, art and food. The venue offers guests a sense of Lexus and the lifestyle it embodies. Here are just five of the many reasons to visit the space.

5 reasons to visit

Intersect by Lexus - Tokyo 1. You get to lounge amidst understated luxury Intersect’s second-floor bistro is designed as a living room, blending modern and traditional Japanese elements, natural light and monthly playlists by Towa Tei. With shelves of books about cars, art, design, food and travel, it’s the perfect spot to linger for hours.

2. They serve incredible tea Intersect is one of only two places in Tokyo where you can try Morizo Tea, a premium craft tea produced

by Akio Toyoda, chairman of Toyota Motor Corporation, also known as Master Driver Morizo. Inspired by the forests surrounding the Fuji Speedway in Shizuoka, it’s made with pesticide-free single origin green tea and botanical-infused floral water and pairs well with the bistro’s sweet and savoury set.

3. You can savour an everchanging multicourse dinner Featuring a range of ‘uniquely Tokyo-style’ dishes, the menu emphasises seasonality, reduced food waste, plant-based options and multicultural influences.

Intersect’s multicourse dinner also offers an optional alcohol pairing showcasing expertly selected wines.

4. There are inspiring exhibitions in the first-floor Garage space The Garage is a versatile space for exhibitions and installations inspired by the Lexus lifestyle, often centred on sensory immersion. With exhibitions changing several times a year, there’s always something new to discover.

5. You’ll get to appreciate Lexus craftsmanship There’s plenty here for car enthusiasts, too. The building’s iconic bamboo façade is inspired by the signature Lexus spindle motif. A parts wall along the staircase showcases genuine Lexus components, while mini cars on the second floor highlight the space’s passion for fun and exploration. On the first floor, you’ll find Crafted for Lexus lifestyle goods created by Japanese artisans.

Intersect by Lexus - Tokyo 4-21-26 Minami Aoyama, Minato, Tokyo. lexus.jp/brand/intersect/tokyo.

OPENING TIMES 1F Café, shop & Garage: 9am-11pm Breakfast: 9am-11am 2F Bistro lounge: 11am-11pm Lunch: 11am-5pm (last orders 2pm) Dinner: 5.30pm-11pm (last orders for food 10pm, drinks 10.30pm)

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10 THINGS TO DO IN JAPAN

10 THINGS TO DO IN JAPAN

What’s hot across the country right now

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Food for thought

things to keep in mind when eating your way across Japan

Restaurants are small

Very small – especially in the big cities.

The smallest may only seat six or so, and there may not be much room to manoeuvre. Try not to come in big groups (expect to be seated separately if you do), and don’t linger after you’ve eaten, so the next customers can squeeze in to savour the goodness, too.

No tipping

Tipping is usually met with confusion: are you sure you didn’t just forget your change? Good service is considered standard, not something worth tipping for. Save your money and just say gochisosama deshita (‘I enjoyed it’ or ‘It was delicious’) as your way of expressing your gratitude.

KEISUKE TANIGAWA | KISA TOYOSHIMA

Don’t munch on the go

Food in Japan is not to be eaten while trying to get from A to B, unless you have a table to place it on. There is a sliding scale, though: the more pungent the food and the more crowded the place, the bigger the offense. Quick onigiri on a non-crowded train or while speedwalking? Perhaps. A pack of natto or a big slice of pizza during rush hour? Don’t even think about it.

Find out more online – check out Time Out Tokyo and Osaka GO→

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TOCHIGI | Art

Oya Grand Center

Occupying a former public bathhouse and dining facility, this newly opened, expansive art space makes full use of its magnificent natural surroundings. Graphic artist Yoshirotten’s first permanent exhibit is a must-see.

à1396-29 Oyamachi, Utsunomiya, Tochigi. oya-grand-center.com.

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TOKYO | Restaurants

Ginza Sapphire Lounge

Crowning Ginza’s new Kurosawa x Tiffany Building is a luxe rooftop hideaway helmed by chef Takeshi Sato, who honed his craft at renowned Parisian restaurants like L’Arceste. While the Sapphire Lounge is set to become a members-only space, walk-ins are welcome until around spring 2026. à6-9-2 Ginza, Chuo, Tokyo. sapphire-lounge.com.

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TOKYO | Things to do

Osaka Sakai Balloon

Catch a rare aerial view of the Mozu Tombs – a World Heritage site that’s usually hidden in plain sight – from 100 metres above ground. From this height, the full scale of these massive burial mounds finally comes into focus, revealing details you’d never notice from the ground. àDaisen Park, 2 Mozusekiun, Sakai, Sakai, Osaka. osaka-sakai-balloon.com.

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TOYAMA | Things to do

Gokayama Gassho-zukuri Village Illumination

The Unesco-listed Ainokura Gassho-zukuri Village glows under snow and warm lights during this illumination event held on February 21 and 22 – a rare chance to see a piece of living heritage at its most atmospheric. àAinokura, Nanto, Toyama. gokayama-info.jp/archives/8613.

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10 THINGS TO DO IN JAPAN

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©POKÉMON. ©NINTENDO/CREATURES INC./GAME FREAK INC.

4015-1 Yanokuchi, Inagi, Tokyo. pokepark-kanto.co.jp/ppark/top/index.

‘Tsugu’ minä perhonen at the Setagaya Art Museum

Looking back on 30 years of creativity from fashion label minä perhonen, ‘Tsugu’ showcases the evolution of the brand’s craft and playfulness.

Through richly textured textiles born from collaborations with artisans, along with immersive video works, the exhibition offers a glimpse into the future of making and design. àUntil Feb 1 2026. 1-2 Kinutakoen, Setagaya, Tokyo. setagayaartmuseum.or.jp.

FUKUOKA | Hotel

Ryokan Ohana

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OSAKA | Shopping

Oops

The coolest fashion person you know would probably shop at Oops Clothing Store – if they knew about it. Hidden in Nishi, Oops stacks Y2K selects, rising Japanese designers, international pieces and archive finds you won’t believe.

Loud graphics, hacked silhouettes, Kansai chaos...Everything feels alive. Along with frequent pop-ups and parties, it’s become a subculture hub and your gateway into Osaka’s flavour. à4F 8R Building, 1-25-3 Shinmachi, Nishi, Osaka. @oopsclothing.shop

10 TOKYO | Music

Polaristokyo

Relocated from Kanda to Minami-Aoyama in November 2025, this gig spot designed by Hirokazu Yamazaki of the band Toe is beloved by musicians. It’s noted for its distinctive booking policy, spanning ambient and jazz to experimental music. àB2F Backbone House, 6-2-10 Minami-Aoyama, Minato, Tokyo. polaristokyo.com.

HOKKAIDO | Things to do

Lake Shikaribetsu Kotan

Each winter, a village of snow and ice called Kotan appears on the frozen surface of Lake Shikaribetsu. You’ll find open-air hot springs carved directly into the ice as well as an atmospheric Ice Bar, where drinks like cocktails and hot chocolate are served in glasses made of natural ice at a bar crafted from hefty blocks of the cold stuff. àUntil Mar 15 2026. Shikaribetsukohan, Shikaoicho, Kato,

Hokkaido. kotan.jp.

SHIKARIBETSU KOTAN EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE

YAYOI ARIMOTO

TOKYO | Art

The ryotei-style inn formally called Yanagawa-hanshu Tachibana-tei Ohana, is regarded as the only nationally designated place of scenic beauty in Japan where you can stay overnight. The place also offers a plan that lets you enjoy breakfast while cruising through the network of canals that run throughout the city of Yanagawa. àShinhokamachi, Yanagawa, Fukuoka. ohana.co.jp.

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PokéPark Kanto

Opening on February 5 inside the expansive Yomiuriland amusement park is the world’s first permanent outdoor Pokémon theme park. Wander through the forest and spot – or catch – around 600 Pokémon in their ‘natural’ surroundings. In Sedge Town you’ll find a Pokémon Center, a Poké Mart and a Gym, and can catch a Pokémon parade. àInside Yomiuriland Amusement Park,

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TOKYO | Things to do

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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

Q&A

5 things you need to know about medical care in Japan What to do, where to go and what to keep in mind should you get injured or fall ill in Japan, plus 6 English-speaking clinics in Tokyo

Q If I feel sick, where do I go?

A Japan’s health services are quite

regimented, with different hospitals and clinics specialising in different types of care. Japan Medical Service Accreditation for International Patients (jmip.jme.or.jp) has a list of hospitals and clinics certified as being able to provide care to international patients, along with their opening hours and specialisms.

One important thing to note is that regular hospitals and clinics aren’t open at night or on the weekends or holidays – if you need help out of hours, then you should look for kyukyu byoin (emergency hospitals). In Tokyo, if you require assistance in a specific language or are unsure which institution to seek out, call the Tokyo Metropolitan Government’s information hotline at 03 5285 8181 (9am8pm daily).

Q Which things are/aren’t covered by my insurance?

A Japan’s national health insurance

system doesn’t cover visitors and foreign health insurance isn’t valid. It is highly recommended you sort out good travel insurance beforehand as medical bills can quickly rack up. If you have a preexisting condition or other health issue, it is a good idea to fill out the Japan National Tourism Organization’s form for ‘personal information concerning medical care’ (available from jnto.go.jp) and carry it with you while in the country.

Q How does payment work? When do I pay?

A Clinics and hospitals in Japan require you

to pay for treatment in full before leaving the facility. How this works in practice with travel insurance depends on the hospital

and the type of insurance you have; you’ll usually have to pay up front, either with credit card (especially at large hospitals and in the cities) or cash (at smaller clinics and in rural areas). In some cases, the hospital may be able to charge the travel insurer directly. It’s best to check with your insurer in advance, if possible.

Q Can I bring my own medication into Japan?

A People on prescription medications are

allowed to bring a month’s supply for their own use into Japan, but will also need to provide a copy of the prescription and a doctor’s note to avoid any trouble at customs. For more than that, you need to apply for an import certificate (yunyu kakunin-sho) from the Ministry of Health, which can take time. Drugs containing ‘stimulants’ (for example ADHD treatments such as Adderall) are illegal in Japan and can’t be brought in, whereas drugs with psychotropics (e.g. diazepam/valium) have a lower, stricter import limit than other medicines.

Q Where can I find LGBTQ+-friendly clinics?

A There are several queer-friendly clinics

in the big cities, including Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya and Fukuoka. Organisations such as Stonewall Japan, which serves the country’s English-speaking queer community, provide lists of recommended clinics and testing centres by prefecture.

Please note that this article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for medical treatment or professional medical advice. For specific symptoms or treatments, always consult a physician or other healthcare professional. The laws, regulations and procedures described are subject to change. Legal review conducted by Takahiro Saito, Atsumi & Sakai Attorneys at Law.

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Sendagaya International Clinic General practice, emergency medicine, paediatrics Dr. Tadashi Shinozuka Located in central Tokyo and conveniently accessible, this clinic is the spot when you need quick treatment; it handles everything from colds to insect bites and sprains. It’s noted for providing comprehensive general care for embassies and travellers. Be sure to call ahead.

Shibuya Ekimae Medical Clinic

Noda Sakura Heart Clinic

General practice Dr. Motofumi Takahashi

General practice, cardiology Dr. Makoto Noda

Just five minutes’ walk from Shibuya Station, this friendly local clinic has three doctors on staff and can help with a wide range of medical issues. Walk-ins are accepted, as are both credit card and cash payments.

Named after the nearby ‘birthplace’ of the Somei Yoshino variety of cherry tree, this clinic near Sugamo Station specialises in cardiology while also offering care for a wide range of conditions as a general internal medicine practice. Walk-ins only, as appointments are not available.

àHoriuchi Bldg 8F, 2-25-6 Dogenzaka, Shibuya. 03 6626 6165. smc.clinic.

àRoom 203, 1-20-3 Sendagaya, Shibuya. 03 3478 4747. sendagaya-ic.com/en.

Meguro Chen Dermatology Clinic

Renais Clinic Nihonbashi

Dermatology, allergies Dr. Ko-Ron Chen

Regenerative medicine Dr. Atsuyuki Hirano

If you’re dealing with skin trouble and need assistance in English, this clinic provides just the treatment, and conveniently so – it’s located four minutes on foot from Meguro Station.

Reservations are required in advance via phone for first-time patients, and appointments must be honoured if not cancelled in advance.

If you’re feeling worn out after a long day of shopping or sightseeing, call this clinic specialising in regenerative medicine and aesthetic treatments to get the details on its line-up. English and Chinese spoken.

àShinyo CK Bldg 6F, 3-3-5 Kamiosaki, Shinagawa. 03 5421 2651. meguro-chin-hifuka.com/english.html.

àETS Muromachi Bldg 3F, 3-3-1 Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo.

03 6665 0888. biken-kai.com/renais-nihonbashi.

àBellevue Court 1F, 4-15-19 Komagome, Toshima. 03 3915 5500. noda-sakuraheart-clinic.com.

Karasawa Clinic General practice, paediatrics Dr. Tatsunobu Karasawa Government-certified to provide medical consultation in English, this neighbourhood clinic is ideal for quick, hassle-free diagnosis and treatment. Medications are dispensed on site – a rarity these days. Walk-ins only, no appointments. à1-18-9 Fukasawa, Setagaya. 03 3701 7552. karasawanaika.jp.