TROMSO TRAVEL ADVENTURE - THE CITY 2019

•

PARIS OF THE NORTH

Take a stroll through the rich history of a metropolitan in name!

AN ENGLISH SPEAKER'S GUIDE TO TROMSO!

S U M M E R 2019

•

FREE

•

E N G L I S H L A N G UA G E

2019 MAGAZINE THE CITY

ACTIVITIES AND RENTALS

FLIP

THE MAGAZINE OVER TO READ ABOUT THE REGION!

1

Who knows a city better than its local taxi drivers? Whether you need a cab from the airport to your hotel or you want to check out the whales in Kaldfjorden, Tromsø Taxi is at your service 24/7.

Tromsø Taxi is Northern Norway’s largest taxi station. We have 123 vehicles, including 10 maxi taxis seating 9-16 passengers and can transport up to three wheelchair users per vehicle.

As well as transporting you from A to B, we offer sightseeing tours. You decide what you want to see, or your driver can be your guide and show you the best sights in and around the city!

Tromsø Taxi - Get where you’re going faster BOOKING Phone: +47 776 03000 App: TaxiFix (Download free in AppStore and GooglePlay) E-mail: taxi@tromso-taxi.no Website: www.tromso-taxi.no

S E I T I AC T I V

S L A T N E AND R

IONA L ADV ICE EXCI TING ACTI VITIE S I THE RIGH T EQU IPME NT I PRO FESS Tromsø Outdoor is driven by passion for our place, nature and being active outdoors. We are focused on good equipment, local development, a good working environment, professional advice, friends and family time and trying new things.

We are the only company in Tromsø providing top notch equipment for most outdoor activities through the year for rent.

EXPLORE TROMSØ BY E-BIKE Season: 1 June to 30 September.

Departure: Two daily departures, starting at Tromsø Outdoor Activity and Rental Centre at Sjøgata 14.

Morning departure: 10.00 Afternoon departure 15.00 Duration 3-3.5 hours Price: NOK 995 p.p.

RENTAL OFFER INCLUDED BIKES AND BIKE EQUIPMENT ■■ ■■ ■■ ■■ ■■ ■■ ■■ ■■ ■■ ■■ ■■ ■■

Touring/trekking bikes City bikes Road bikes MTB 27 and MTB 29 hard tails and full suspension E-bikes - city and touring models Fat bikes Tandem bikes After bike and bikes for children Bike panniers from Ortlieb Diverse cargo and child trailers Child’s seat for the bikes Car racks for bike transport

In addition to the bike and bike equipment, you can order bike transfers along the coast and plan your holidays with greater flexibility.

Opening hours: June-August and November-April 9:00-18:00 every day September-October and May: 9:00-16:00 weekdays, 10:00-15:00 weekends.

Tel. +47 975 75 875 • post@tromsooutdoor.no 2

www.tromsooutdoor.no

Who knoWs A city better?

Who knows a city better than its local taxi drivers? Whether you need a cab from the airport to your hotel or you want to check out the whales in Kaldfjorden, Tromsø Taxi is at your service 24/7.

Tromsø Taxi is Northern Norway’s largest taxi station. We have 123 vehicles, including 10 maxi taxis seating 9-16 passengers and can transport up to three wheelchair users per vehicle.

As well as transporting you from A to B, we offer sightseeing tours.

You decide what you want to see, or your driver can be your guide and show you the best sights in and around the city!

Tromsø Taxi – GeT where you’re GoinG fasTer

booKinG

Phone: +47 776 03 000 | aPP: TaxiFix (Download free in AppStore and GooglePlay) e-mail: taxi@tromso-taxi.no | websiTe: www.tromso-taxi.no 3

bussring.no

– takes you all the way from door to door

- brings artists and equipment to shows all over Scandinavia

Benefit from our local knowledge of how to operate in the Arctic, and 35 years of experience as a high quality coach service operator.

Contact us for more info: www.bussring.no • facebook.com/bussring tel: +47 40 00 21 96 • e-mail: post@bussring.no

– your first choice in the Arctic

- takes you to all our winter activities in the Tromsø region

— R ADISSON BLU T RO M S Ø CIT Y'S BEST ADDRESS — Our 269 newly renovated rooms showcase breathtaking views over the city, the Fjord of Tromsø or the surrounding mountains. Each room features signature Radisson Blu beds, free WiFi, mini fridge and purposeful amenities.

Radisson Blu Hotel Sjøgata 7, P.O. Box 928, 9259 Tromsø, Norway T: +47 77 60 00 00 sales.tromso@radissonblu.com

radissonblu.com/hotel-tromso

Tromso Travel Magazine City PUBLISHER Markedskompetanse Nord AS post@mk-nord.no EDITOR John A. Angelsen john@mk-nord.no

Welcome to the Outpost of Civilisation

T

his is the end of civilisation, and the beginning of the largest uninhabited wilderness area in Europe. The Municipality of Tromsø has a population of around 70,000, approximately 60,000 of whom live in or nearby the city of Tromsø. Tromsø is by far the largest city in Northern Norway, and is also the largest Nordic city north of the Arctic Circle. Tromsø has its own university and brewery. No other universities or breweries in the world are located this far north. The city is surrounded by hundreds of islands, dramatic mountains and deep fjords, and is only a twohour flight from Oslo, the Norwegian capital.

The university provides many opportunities for scientists from all over the world, studying the Northern Lights, the Arctic environment, fisheries, climate change, oil resources in the ocean, and many other topics.

As a result of this activity, there are several museums dedicated to the Arctic life and nature, as well as an Arctic experience centre and aquarium. Tromsø, the Gateway to the Arctic, was founded in 1794, and from 1850 the town was central in fisheries and other marine-based activity. In the early 20th century, the town was also the starting point for several famous expeditions in the Arctic waters and in the race to be the first person on the North Pole.

The activity a century ago led to a flourishing cultural life. The finer ladies in Tromsø could afford to wear the latest fashions from Paris and other cultural centres in Europe. In the Nordic countries this gave Tromsø the nickname “Paris of the North”.

The growing population and status as an Arctic capital, with a lasting boom in the cultural life, has maintained this image to this day.

Tromsø has its own professional theatre, an international film festival, and many other festivals, concerts, and events throughout the year. Taking into consideration the size of the city, the nightlife in the many restaurants and bars is extraordinary. You will find restaurants serving everything from sushi to traditional Norwegian dishes.

Tromsø is where civilization meets the wild and enormous Arctic environment. You can take the cable car up to a mountain more than 400 metres above sea level and admire the panoramic view of the islands and high mountains surrounding the city.

CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS Hans Olav Eriksen, Jan-Are K. Johnsen, Ruth Norstrøm, Tor Petter W. Christensen, John A. Angelsen, Ron Røstad, Jonny Hansen, Halvar Ellingsen, Thor A. Angelsen, Inger Storli, Peter Reinholdtsen, Gavin Tanguay DESIGN/LAYOUT Thor A. Angelsen/ Ruth Norstrøm MARKETING & ADVERTISING Hans Olav Eriksen hoeriksen@gmail.com Ruth Norstrøm ruth@mk-nord.no ADVERTISING DESIGN Amedia Ressurs AS DISTRIBUTION The magazine can also be downloaded as an app at App Store and Google Play - search "tromso travel magazine" CIRCULATION 10 000 printed copies PRINT United Press ENGLISH TRANSLATION Gavin Tanguay gavint-oversetting.no PHOTOS Marius Fiskum mariusfiskum. no, Ole Salomonsen arcticlightphoto.no, David Gonzales.

COVER PHOTO Marius Fiskum mariusfiskum.no

John A. Angelsen, Editor 7

8

9

A STROLL THROUGH THE PAR Tromsø is a metropolis by name, if not by fact, a place that has grown from being a tiny village into a small “big city” with a population rapidly approaching 100,000.

The population was only 80 in 1794 when the king in Copenhagen granted a town charter to the small settlement on the island of Tromsøya. Around 221 years later, the population is approaching 75,000 and growing rapidly.

Tromsø is a metropolis in name because ever since the mid 19th century the town has had a nickname that brings to mind the big metropolises of the world.

“Paris of the North” was in fact a name Tromsø inherited because its residents – and primarily the women – always dressed in the latest fashion. Yes, the women of Tromsø dressed like many of the women of Paris dressed. That was due to fact that the latest fashions quickly came to Tromsø by the mode of transport of the day – boats - transporting fish products from our latitudes and to continental Europe.

FRENCH PAVEMENTS

It was not only in the area of women’s fashion that inspiration from Paris rubbed off on the locals of Tromsø. It also became quite common to use French terms in everyday language.

In Tromsø, the Norwegian equivalent of pavement was never used. Instead, the paved areas beside the streets were called trottoir, just like Frenchmen described the pavements of Paris.

When Tromsø got two breakwaters to protect the inner harbour from strong currents and strong winds on harsh autumn and winter days, they were not referred to by the Norwegian name. No, they got the French name jetee, which is still used to this day.

Tromsø History 10

The latest fashions from Paris. The upper class and working class walked on opposite sides of Storgata.

ARCTIC COUNCIL

In recent years, Tromsø has become an important city internationally. In 2013 Tromsø was chosen as the permanent secretariat for the Arctic Council.

This is an intergovernmental forum among Arctic countries promoting cooperation and coordination on common Arctic issues, in particular in relation to sustainable development and environmental protection.

The member countries of the Arctic Council are Canada, Denmark including the Faroe Islands and Greenland, Finland, Iceland, Russia, USA, Sweden and Norway.

In other words, Tromsø is not only the capital of Northern Norway, but also the capital of the Arctic.

This council secretariat is housed in the Fram Centre, and this is a natural starting point for a city walk through Tromsø.

IS OF THE NORTH

POLARIA

The Fram Centre and adjacent Arctic experience centre Polaria were both completed just before the turn of the millennium.

The famous author Cora Sandel in the latest French fashion.

In addition to its unique architecture, the content of Polaria is of interest to the residents of Tromsø and the hundreds of thousands who visit Tromsø each year. Seals swim round in their own pool and there are aquariums containing fish species from the northern latitudes.

Many have asked how the building ended up with its unique design. The answer is easier than you may think.

The architect sat in his office one afternoon playing with a marker pen in search of an idea to create a building that illustrated the activity inside as well as one that the residents of Tromsø would develop a positive attitude towards. His pen suddenly stopped working. The architect fiddled with his pen to try to get it to work again. When he looked at the paper, he suddenly discovered that the lines he had drawn resembled the pack ice, which is a well known phenomenon in the Arctic. Aha, thought the architect. That was an idea he could develop further.

POLSTJERNA

A glass building housing the historic Arctic vessel Polstjerna stands right next door to Polaria.

This sealing vessel served a total of 33 seasons in the West Ice and East Ice in the Arctic.

Apparently more than 100,000 seals were caught from the vessel, which constituted an important part of the Arctic industry that at one stage was of great significance to Tromsø.

A memorial to Helmer Hanssen, Tromsø’s polar explorer who was Roald Amundsen’s right hand man on all Amundsen’s expeditions, has been erected adjacent to this building. These expeditions included the conquering of the Northwest Passage, the South Pole and their attempt to reach the North Pole aboard Maud. The memorial was unveiled on 14 December 2011, 100 years to the day that Roald Amundsen and his crew reached the South Pole.

11

Each year, around

Each year, around

passengers use Avinor Tromsø Airport

ambulance flights movements at Tromsø Airport

Tromsø Airport is responsible for around

Tromsø Airport is located

2,2 million

40,000

aircraft movements per year

5,500

only a short drive from town.

Tromsø Airport has around

Visit our shops and

from about 25 different companies

our variety of local produce

650 employees

12

restaurants and check out and global brands!

Avinor's role in society is to own, operate and develop a national network of airports.

avinor.no/en/airport/tromso-airport/ Avinor is the official Avinor app !

Offers up-to-date flight departure and arrival information for all of Avinor’s 45 airports in Norway.

DIRECT FLIGHTS: Direct regular flights to: London, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Helsinki, Gdansk, Frankfurt, München, Gran Canaria and Alicante.

TROMSØ AIRPORT has several daily flights from Oslo (OSL), the Norwegian capital. Flight time from Oslo International Airport (OSL) is 1hr 50min.

OSLO AIRPORT (Gardermoen) Approximate flight times: London 1 hr 20 min Berlin 1 hr 55 min Rome 3 hr 10 min Madrid 3 hr 45 min Paris 2 hr 25 min Brussels 1 hr 55 min 13

BAKER TURNED BREWER If you continue northwards along Storgata, it won’t take you long to reach what until a few years ago was the world’s northernmost brewery.

Mack’s Brewery produced beer and soft drinks in huge quantities on this site from the brewery’s establishment in 1877 up to 2013 when production was moved to the neighbouring municipality Balsfjord. The brewery premises remain as they have since the late 19th century.

Over the past couple of years, the former brewery has hosted the World Chess Olympiad in 2014 and European Bridge Championship in 2015. All the matches in both events were overseen by the man who established Mack’s Brewery in 1877, Ludwig Mack, whose bust adorns the building’s exterior.

TRAINED AS A BAKER

His family originated from Germany but moved to Tromsø in the mid 19th century and started a bakery. Ludwig Mack was to overtake his father’s bakery, so he returned to Germany to train as a baker and confectioner. However, while back in Germany, he dreamt of establishing his own brewery.

He was aged just 35 on 17 May 1878 when he realized his dream and the first bottles of Bayer beer were produced. His brewing business, which still produces beer to this day, was underway.

EMPLOYED 320 PEOPLE

For a long time, the brewery was a major employer in Tromsø. In the

Ludwig Mack outside his brewery in Storgata late 1980s, around 320 people were employed at the brewery and adjacent pub Ølhallen (The Beer Hall), which has been very popular since it opened its doors on the Leap Day in 1928.

DRANK HAIR TONIC

Ludwig Mack had actually tried many years earlier to get permission to open an indoor taproom, but the temperance movement in Tromsø was very strong so he failed to get the required permission. However, his successor as director, son-in-law Lauritz Bredrup, eventually succeeded. He visited every councillor at their home in an attempt to persuade them to let him open an indoor taproom.

That didn’t help the first time he tried in

1924 despite the fact that there were no controls on drinking outdoors. Some local gangs known as the ”Denna gangs2 often sat outside and drank what was locally referred to as denna. This was a mixture of denatured alcohol and Salicylic acid, a fat-free hair tonic. Needless to say, the consumption of such beverages created uncontrolled situations, but this was insufficient to convince the temperance movement. They didn’t believe that permitting the brewery to open an indoor taproom would change the outdoor drinking pattern.

But Lauritz Bredrup didn’t give up. He repeated his round of visits to the local politicians in 1927. On this occasion he was successful and Ølhallen became a reality.

Tromsø History 14

A STROLL THROUGH THE

AMUNDSEN’S LAST STAY Continuing north along Storgata, it is natural to stop outside the house at Storgata 42. This was the house in which polar explorer Roald Amundsen slept for the last time.

Amundsen arrived in Tromsø in the early hours of 18 June 1928 on the flying boat Latham. He was en route to the polar ice to search for Italian Umberto Nobile, whose airship Italia had disappeared after flying over the North Pole. Italia had crashed and an organised search began on a scale the world had scarcely seen before.

Amundsen, who was commander of the airship Norge that flew over the North Pole in 1926 with Umberto Nobile at the controls, wanted to participate in the search. Amundsen’s good friend, pharmacist Fritz G. Zapffe, lived and worked at Storgata 42. Whenever Amundsen was in Tromsø, he always stayed with Zapffe. He even had his own room, which was later called the Amundsen room.

SUPPORTED BY MUSSOLINI

Amundsen slept here for a few hours before he and his French-Norwegian crew departed on Latham to search for Nobile.

The Italian had embarked on his expedition with the airship Italia because he and Italian dictator Benito Mussolini believed that Italy had received too little attention for their role with the Norge expedition a few years earlier. That was the reason why Nobile built his own airship, christened as Italia and embarked on his adventurous expedition.

A stamp honours Roald Amundsen´s contribution to aviation history. Pictured: The ”Latham”.

Storgata 42

CRASHED

As history shows, Amundsen was unsuccessful in his attempt to find Nobile.

Instead, his airship Latham crashed somewhere between the Norwegian mainland and the island of Bjørnøya. The only wreckage ever found was a float, which demonstrably was from Latham.

Zapffe celebrates after climbing up the church spire.

ZAPFFE’S CLIMB Zapffe’s son, Peter Wessel Zapffe, also lived at Storgata 42.

Zapffe junior was lawyer, philosopher and author. He was also a fearless mountaineer. In the mid 1930s he worked as a lawyer at the office of the urban district court judge.

He suddenly became bored with legal papers, went to the Tromsø Cathedral and decided to climb to the top of the church tower. People who witnessed this man climbing up the steep church tower – without any form of safety measures – were shocked, to put it mildly. Nevertheless, Zapffe reached the top with minimal effort and clung on while the city’s photographer preserved it all for posterity. In so doing, he secured evidence that Zapffe had actually climbed up the virtually impregnable church spire.

Throughout the more than 150-year history of the Tromsø Cathedral, Peter Wessel Zapffe is the only person to perform this dangerous stunt.

PARIS OF THE NORTH

15

RØST KOMMUNIKASJON

MEET THE ARCTIC

Polaria has an Arctic

The main attraction are the bearded

aquarium, interesting

seals and the harbour seals.

knowledge-based exhibits, a panoramic cinema, and a high

In the aquarium you

quality gift shop with local products.

can also say hello to the

Enjoy a meal in our café.

most common species of fish and other bottom species you can find in the Barents Sea.

OPENING HOURS JAN–16 MAY

10:00-18:00

17 MAY

10:00-17:00

18 MAY -31 AUG 10:00-19:00 1 SEP-23 DEC

10:00-18:00

24 DEC

10:00-16:00

25-31 DEC

10:00-18:00

TICKET PRICES (NOK) ADULT: 145 | CHILDREN: 70 SENIOR: 95 | STUDENT: 80 FAMILY: 315

TRAINING AND FEEDING OF THE SEALS EVERY DAY 12.30 & 15.30

visit us online polaria.no

PROUD SUPPLIER OF VIEWS SINCE 1961 Opening hours: 15 May – 15 August: 10.00 – 01.00 16 August – 14 May: 10.00 – 22.00 Departures on the half hour

Tickets: Buy online at fjellheisen.no/en Transport: Bus number 26 from Tromsø city centre

Web: fjellheisen.no Visit us: Solliveien 12, Tromsdalen

ROCKET KIOSK

GESTAPO ALLEY Another house associated with several historical events is located on the northern side of the cathedral.

about the German battleship Tirpitz, which lay damaged in the Kåfjord near Alta.

The house at Bankgata 13 was built in 1880 by the whaler Johannes Giæver and was the first residential building in Tromsø built of stone.

Another reason why it’s unique is that the famous writer Cora Sandel lived here during her childhood. During World War II the Gestapo took over the house and used it as a venue to torture people suspected of fighting against the interests of the occupying power Germany.

HEROIC DEED

REPORTED ON THE TIRPITZ

One of the people linked to this house was Norwegian resistance fighter Karl Rasmussen. He had been involved in sending messages from Alta to London

Tromsø History 18

After his arrest, Rasmussen was taken to Tromsø for very tough questioning inside this house. During a break in the questioning, he jumped out of a window on the second floor of the house and took his own life instead of divulging secrets to the Germans about his resistance comrades.

This heroic deed is one of the reasons why every morning on 17 May, Norway’s national day, the scout parade stops briefly outside Bankgata 13 to lay a wreath to commemorate the victims of the Gestapo during World War II.

If we continue walking northwards along Storgata, we reach a tiny building that has characterized the town square since 1911.

It is the small Løkkekiosken (the Løkke kiosk), which in recent years has been called Rakettkiosken (the rocket kiosk), apparently because it looks like a rocket.

The kiosk was built by an 18-year-old woman named Margit Løkke - hence the name Løkke kiosk. It has survived for more than a century, including the big city fire in the spring of 1969 that engulfed several blocks with flames.

Despite being in the midst of a sea of flames, the tiny kiosk survived.

It is now the centre of a major music festival called RakettNatt (rocket night) in honour of the tiny rocket kiosk.

A STROLL THROUGH THE

SKANSEN The last stop on our city walk is Skansen, the place in Tromsø with the longest history.

VERDENSTEATERET If you continue slightly further along Storgata, it’s natural to stop at Northern Europe’s oldest cinema in continuous operation.

It’s called Verdensteatret (the theatre of the world), and 2015 marks the 100th anniversary of the building of the cinema building. The first movie screened at the historic cinema was Sons of Destiny on 4 June 1916.

Ever since, films starring the likes of Charlie Chaplin, Clark Gable, Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton and many, many more have entertained the residents of Tromsø, who have always filled this cinema regardless of whether war dramas or films about love and romance were screening.

building that still stands to this day and is simply referred to as Skansen. Construction began in 1789 and was completed in 1793 – the year before Tromsø received its town charter. It The history of Skansen stretis considered to be Tromsø’s ches right back to 1000 AD or oldest building. perhaps even further back.

As well as serving as a CustSkansen was originally a medioms house, it has been a school eval fortification designed to building, nursing home and defend the people and buildcity museum.

The building is ings of the time. the City of Tromsø’s residence No one knows with any for entertaining and was also certainty who built the fortifichosen as Tromsø’s millennium cation, but one cannot discount Olav Haraldsson, who was king site. of Norway between 1015 and 1030. Modern day excavations CULTURAL RELIC show that the fortress was sur- This building caught fire in the rounded by a 4-5 m wide moat, winter of 2003 but, owing to which in all likelihood was filled the tenacious efforts of the fire fighters, the building was saved. with water.

It was later restored and is still a magnificent building.

THE OLDEST BUILDING Skansen is considered to be In 1787, the Customs Service the best preserved fortified established itself in Tromsø, place in Northern Europe. It’s and Skansen was chosen as the obvious place as it offered a unique cultural monument the Customs officers an excel- in the city centre. If you look a little behind the facades, you lent view of the strait. One of will soon discover that it is a the first constructions was a museum in its own right.

PARIS OF THE NORTH

This article is written

by Johnny Hansen.

In addition to a long career as an author, Hansen has been executive editor of the largest and oldest newspapers in the Tromsø region, iTromsø and Nordlys, for a total of 20 years.

Hansen is considered to be one of the leading authorities on Tromsø’s modern history.

19

BlĂĽst was established in 2002, and has become a natural stop for visitors to the Paris of the North.

The owners blow glass at the workshop virtually every day, and it might be possible to see the transformation from molten glass to the most beautiful objects. Be aware, it will be as hot as a sauna.

Production includes everything from drinking vessels of all kinds to vases and bowls for the more sculptural and unique items. All glass blowers participate in the formulation and design. Most likely, you will find something to your liking.

facebook.com/nordensparistromso

Location: City map 20

EXPERIENCE

JEKTA

NORDIC SHOPPING AT ITS BEST

130 shops only a five minute drive from the airport and the city centre.

Opening hours: Mon-Fri 10-21 / Sat 10-18 / Sunday closed Free parking • www.jekta.no

THE GIANT OF THE NORTH

AN ARCHITECTURAL MIX Perhaps the first thing you will notice in Tromsø is the wooden houses.

In contrast to many other towns in North Norway, Tromsø was not destroyed during the war. It was not only the working class who lived in these wooden houses. Up to the start of last century, monumental buildings were often built of wood. This is modelled on big cities, and in downtown Tromsø you can find traces of Moscow, Athens, Amsterdam, Istanbul, Italy, Bergen and Tokyo. Even the small sausage kiosk on the main market square complete with its onion dome was based on similar buildings overseas. However, despite the attempt to be international, when you wander in Tromsø you will not think for a second that you are actually in Vienna or Paris.

In an effort to create a more unique local identity, some buildings have been inspired by nature, such as the Arctic Cathedral with its ice-like, white facade.

The Arctic experience centre Polaria and the hotel The Edge also have ice and the cold as themes. While this may be cool, you can also ask yourself if we have enough ice and cold as it is.

HAPPY AMATURERS

The do-it-yourself builder has left their mark on Tromsø.

There are many solutions that are clearly built by happy amateurs. This is particularly visible in residential areas, where you can see creative solutions for stairs, balconies or extensions. While some may think this is ugly, it has become part of our cultural heritage. The climate means that you think practically rather than aesthetically.

The city has its fair share of non-aesthetic, but practical solutions, which has led to Tromsø having a reputation as an ugly and chaotic city. Ugly or not, once you are here take a look at the buildings that we have built, which we live and work in.

In Tromsø, it’s not so common to draw the curtains at night. Feel free to take a discreet peek into our homes because one thing is certain, in Tromsø the inside of the houses is more important than the outside.

It’s inside the houses that we spend the most time, and this is where we really put our pride into making it nice.

DOWNING STREET?

As you stroll along, it’s worth taking a closer look at the doors of the old wooden houses. They are often painstakingly made and inspired by antiquity, as was often the case elsewhere in the world at that time.

Sjøgata 10 is a good example. This door has columns carved in the wood and you can see a certain resemblance to the front door of a famous number 10, namely Number 10 Downing Street. by: Ron Røstad

22

FROM CINEMA TO LIBRARY

When Focus cinema opened in 1973, it was a modern and funky building. Nevertheless, this large cinema rapidly became outdated. In 2003 the entire old cinema building was demolished apart from its characteristic roof. A new library was built under the roof, and this new library is well worth a visit. You can warm up while enjoying a nice view of the city. If you visit the small bar Perez in the north of the city centre, you can sit on the old cinema seats.

DEBATE ABOUT HIGH-RISE BUILDINGS Building a high-rise hotel on this site has been planned since the early 1990s, but the height was so controversial that for a long time the municipal council opposed it. Every time high-rise buildings are proposed, it triggers debate. However, high-rise buildings have one undisputed advantage: the view from the top. A visit to the hotel’s Sky bar is recommended.

OLDEST STREET

Sjøgata is the oldest street in Tromsø and Northern Norway.

This was the main street in Tromsø until Storgata took over in the late 19th century.

Many of the buildings were destroyed during the big fire in 1969, but thankfully some were preserved.

PLUSH TOWN

If you wander in the streets slightly above the city centre, you will find the so-called “plush town”. In the late 19th century, the privileged residents built their summer residences here. It was a never-ending party during the brief but bright summers.

It was not uncommon for the people here to go from house to house looking for a party without giving a thought to the time. Someone was always awake.

In time, these houses became permanent residences year-round, but to this day this is considered a better part of town.

WHAT TROMSØ WAS LIKE

A SQUARE TO WARM UP IN

Tromsø is a region that is rich in food. If you visit Kystens Hus, you can buy fish, meat and other products from traditional, local producers or enjoy local food in the restaurant. The big stairs in the middle of the building provide visitors the opportunity to sit down and watch life go by without freezing or sitting at a café. The architecture is controversial. Some think the black facades are sad, while others perceive it as a stylish, modern building. The Coastal House unites two things that are important to Tromsø: fish and controversial architecture.

Unlike Stockholm or Tallinn, Tromsø does not have an Old Town. Actually, all of downtown Tromsø is an old town. The oldest houses, which are up to 200 years old, are spread fairly evenly across the entire city. At the northern end of the city centre, you will find an area that is characterized by modern architecture to a lesser extent than otherwise. You will also find a street that is built on the model of Tromso in the 19th century. Several older wooden houses have been moved to this area and the street has streetlights that resemble the earliest electric street lights.

The street is “macadamised” and not asphalted. The pavement, or trottoir as it was called in Tromsø in the old days, consists of slate slabs and the gutter is made of cobblestones.

FIRST LINE OF DEFENCE

The history of Tromsø dates back to the 13th century when a church and a fortress were established here. The fortress was originally situated on an islet with a clear view of the strait. In all likelihood, the fortress was surrounded by a palisade. Today, the fortress is not quite as impressive. There are no towers and walls, but there is a circular earth wall.

Modest or not, this was Norway’s first line of defence against a possible attack from Novgorod. It’s fair to say that Skansen was the Western European civilisation’s absolute outpost in the north and east and the beginning of 800 years (so far unfounded) of fear of Russian aggression.

23

STAY SMART IN TROMSØ

Our budget hotel Smarthotel Tromsø opened April 2013 right in the middle of Tromsø city center. We are proud of our Nordic interior design and want you to feel welcome and at home with us. We are collaborating with the best arctic companies, and will make sure your chances of seeing the northern light is at its best. We will of course help you book your whale safari, midnight sun or dog sledge excursion, and don’t forget to visit the famous Fjellheisen where you will get the best view over Tromsø. Our concept is to provide you with cheap accommodation, with high quality, simplicity and comfort.

24

Order your next stay at smarthotel.no and get a delicious Scandinavian breakfast included.

Summer concerts every day

Organ Recitals Every day at 14:00 June 01 – July 31 NOK 80

Midnight Sun Concerts Every night at 23:00 June 01 – Aug 15 NOK 195 / 50

THE ARCTIC CATHEDR AL , ISHAVSK ATEDR ALEN

W W W. ISHAVSK ATEDR ALEN . NO

TICKETS AT ENTR ANCE OR ONLINE W W W.VISITTROMSO. NO

With its superbl y firm white meat, this giant of the sea ranks among the most impressive and exquisite shellfish you can ser ve.

King Crab

ARCTIC DISHES Produce grown in the Arctic develops a unique taste. This may be attributed to several reasons: sun around the clock, a cold climate and a lack of pollution.

A

rctic produce has always been highly sought after. Some of our produce is renowned far beyond the countr y’s borders, while others are virtually unknown and are ready for a larger audience.

Here are a few details about some of the best known:

26

26

LAMB

The lambs are released onto the pastures in June and the North Norwegian summer, which is rarely too hot, provides an abundance of food and nourishing herbs.

Sheep and lamb are a bit fussy about their diet, but find many of their favourite foods in the Arctic regions. They enjoy a varied diet and often wander from mountain peak down to the seashore, which we have a lot of.

This generates ver y fit lambs with plenty of marbled fat and lots of flavour. You can almost

taste the North Norwegian nature when you eat the lamb.

They wander in the g reat outdoors almost from their birth until they are slaughtered and they consume minimal quantities of g rain feed. Since it is impossible to find better g rowing condition, lamb from the Arctic is among the ver y best in the world.

KING CRAB

For a long time, there was major debate about whether the king crab was actually welcome along

Pan roast of cod loin

The moose is Norway’s largest wild deer species. There is little commercial sale of moose meat, but the moose hunting season each autumn generates large revenues. Moose meat is lean and the taste varies according to the animal’s diet.

Ing redients (4 ser vings) 4 loins Norwegian cod fillets 1 kg potato, new 400 g g reen beans 1 lemon 4 cloves garlic 10 leaves sage 4 tbsp olive oil Pe pper, fresh cracked salt

Procedure

Moose

SPAWNING COD

Cod is perhaps the main reason why people live in the Arctic. It has been the most important commodity since time immemorial, for e xport as well as domestic

in olive oil and sage. Squeeze in lemon juice, tuck in the lemon skins and garlic cloves.

3. Season with a little salt and pepper

The Old Norwegian is a primitive and extremel y old species of shee p. The y are descendents of shee p that have existed in Norway for more than 3000 years. Combined with other shee p species , the Old Norwegian is light-footed and fast and can g raze outside all year round.

the Norwegian coast. One thing that is not up for debate is that it is a fresh ing redient from the ver y top shelf. The king crab is a versatile ing redient that can be prepared in a variety of ways. It is on a par with Norway lobster and the European lobster. Its legs are crammed full of delicious, juicy meat without a lot of bones and cartilage. As it has no enemies, the king crab has made its entr y along the entire North Norwegian coast and is thriving in our clean, unspoiled and cold waters.

1. Preheat oven to 200*C 2. In large roasting tin, toss potatoes

and roast in oven for 15 minutes.

4. Whilst potatoes roast, blanch green beans in a pan of boiling water for 3-4mins.

5. Drain well then toss through the

potatoes, ensure they are coated in oil.

6. Lay fish fillets on top and season consumption. Cod – and in particular the spawning cod in winter – remains a ver y important part of the North Norwegian livelihood. When the cod (known as skrei in Norwegian) finally reach the coast in Januar y/Februar y after a long mig ration from the Barents Sea, it is in e xcellent physical condition and ready to

with a little more salt and pepper.

Drizzle fish with a little olive oil and roast in oven for around 12 more minutes or until fish is opaque and cooked through (cooking time may vary depending on your fillet size).

7. Serve immediately, pouring over the delicious roasting juices.

Cod

27

Cloudber r y

The famous North Norwegian chef Adolf Henrik Lindstrøm, partisipated on expedtitions with Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen.

Lindstrøm is the inventor of the dish ’steak á la Lindstrøm”.

spawn. Owing to the long mig ration, the loin is much thicker and the meat quality is far higher than for other cod. It is packed full of flavour and has a wonderful te xture. The meat is as white as chalk and full of nutrients. The Arctic spawning cod is an ing redient that chefs worldwide recognize as something special. It is right up there with the likes of truffle, caviar and foie g ras. It’s a real luxur y product.

HALIBUT

Halibut is another fish with a long histor y in our Arctic region. It is also called hellefisk (translated as holy fish), which is derived from the Norse name heilag r fiskr. This indicates the status this fish has had throughout histor y. Rock art that is more than 10,000 years old has been found, which celebrates the halibut as a fish of the gods.

Halibut was often eaten on

Halibut 28

28

Fish farm

special occasions and remains a luxur y item. Halibut can be ver y large and it is not uncommon to catch halibut weighing well over 100 kg. The record for the largest halibut ever caught is 314.5 kg.

SHRIMPS

Shrimps from clean Arctic waters have plentiful access to food. As a result, the shrimps can g row big and fat and develop plenty of flavour. They almost taste a bit sweet. Shrimps can be eaten in the traditional manner with bread and mayonnaise or can be prepared in many different ways. Raw shrimps – shrimps that have not been boiled – have a sweet taste and can be perceived almost like fat on the palate. They are perfect for frying and very receptive to taste. Try shrimp in sushi or salad or perhaps in a wok dish.

In 2014 Norway’s exports of salmon and trout totalled NOK 46.2 billion. The average price for fresh whole salmon was NOK 41.06 per kilo, which re presented a 3.4% rise from the previous year.

CLOUDBERRIES

These small orange flavour bombs g row almost e xclusively in the Arctic. They thrive best in marshlands, but can also g row in common heath. They have a sweet characteristic, intense flavour that is a little reminiscent of peaches, but a completely unique and distinctive taste that simply must be e xperienced. Cloudberries are quite susceptible to weather and frost can destroy an entire cloudberr y crop. It takes a long time for cloudberries to ripen and they are often not ready to pick until the late summer or early autumn.

VEGETABLES/POTATOES Not all vegetables are suited to g rowing in the Arctic, but the vegetables that do g row here develop an e xceptional flavour.

Stockfish

Steak à la Lindstrøm Ing redients

400 g mince 1 tsp salt 1/4 tsp pe pper 1 egg 100 ml milk 2 boiled potatoes (diced) 2 T finel y chopped onion 2 T finel y chopped pickled beetroot 2 T gherkin (chopped) 1 T ca pers 2 T butter or cooking oil for fr ying

This article is written by Halvar Ellingsen.

He has been a regular member of the Norwegian Culinary Team since 2009.

Inspite of his young age, Ellingsen has won several awards. Ellingsen works at the well reputed Palace Grill restaurant in Oslo.

Procedure

1.

Mix the mince with salt and pepper and stir in the milk and beaten egg.

2. Stir the potato, onion, beetroot, gherkin and capers into the mixture.

3. Form into eight high patties. Melt the

butter in a frying pan and fry the patties over moderate heat for 2-3 minutes on each side.

Serve with fried potatoes, fried egg and pickled beetroot.

Reindeer

Slightly cool summers and slightly harsh growing conditions help the vegetables to develop far more flavour than vegetables that grow elsewhere. North of the Arctic Circle, we cultivate a wonderful potato called gulløye (literally translated as “yellow eye”). It has a delicate yellow flesh, a slightly floury texture and a strong potato flavour.

REINDEER

If there is one ing redient that is truly Arctic then it has to be reindeer. Large areas with abundant food make the Arctic perfect for reindeer. The reindeer is well equipped to sur vive the cold and snow in the north and it has few enemies. Reindeer meat is lean and full of flavour. The meat is tender and can be cooked in a

host of ways, ranging from stews and barbecues to pan-fr ying as steak.

These are but a few of the wonderful ingredients we have here. The excellent ingredients enable the chefs to create delicious dishes based on local ingredients.

29

29

LEGENDARY PIZZA

ARCTIC PIZZA, TAKO PIZZA, YONAS SPECIAL AND MANY MORE...

Yonas first turned on its pizza oven in 1974 and has ever since been the “real thing” when it comes to pizza in Tromsø.

With its 43 years of operations, generations have grown up with Yonas pizza and Yonas still continues to serve and delight the local incrowd with fresh, home-made pizzas.

With over 200 seats, its location at the waterfront and its view over the Arctic Cathedral, One can enjoy a wide variety of tasteful combinations!

No reservations needed, just come in and make yourself comfortable.

Did you know that pizzas from Yonas are so popular that we sent them by express all over Europe?!

OPENING HOURS: Monday – Sunday 11:00 – 22.30 Samuel Arnesens gate 10, Tromsø Phone: +47 77 66 66 66 www.yonas.no

ALSO OPEN FOR DELIVERY! PLEASE VISIT YONAS.NO TO SUBMIT YOUR ORDER! 30

30

Tromsø’s finest traditional Pub Located centrally next to the international Radisson Blu Hotel in Tromsø, in an ancient Norwegian fishing cottage, “Rorbua Pub” welcomes her guests with warm, local northern Norwegian hospitality.

Nationally famous for hosting Norways leading standup comedy show on television for 15 consecutive years the intimate and sociable atmosphere are part of the DNA of Rorbua Pub. Live music from Wednesday to Sunday nights makes Rorbua the spot in Tromsø with the greatest frequency of live concerts - 52 weeks a year!

Rorbua Pub is open 7 days a week from 12 noon.

Opening hours: Monday – Tuesday

12:00 – 00:30

Wednesday – Sunday

12:00 – 01:30

Rorbua Pub Samuel Arnesens gate 12, 9008 Tromsø Phone: +47 77 75 90 86 Mail: anne-lise.hansen@radissonblu.com www.facebook.com/RorbuaPub Age limit: as of 20 years

31

Franklin D. Roosevelt pictured in 1900, the year before he visited Tromsø.

Tromsdalen (Troms Valley) with the mountain Tromsd

ROOSEVELT’S DRAMATI A sitting American president has never visited Tromsø, but the ties between the White House and Tromsø abound nevertheless.

Americans with the title of President and Vice President have visited the city at nearly 70˚ North – both before and after serving in the famous house with the Oval Office. Way back in 1901, the first man with links to the White House was in Tromsø – 32 years before becoming president. It was the legendary Franklin D. Roosevelt, the only man to have three periods as president owing to World War II. At age 19, he and his mother, Sara, were on a journey that took them to Norway’s North Cape. They were passengers on the German cruise ship Prinzessin Victoria Louise, which sailed along the Norwegian coast, giving the passengers great experiences of “Norwegian fjords”, mountains, towns and villages. They also experienced daily life in larger towns and smaller settlements. Roosevelt and his 32

mother walked around among the locals without the locals having the slightest inkling that this 19-year-old would one day become one of the most powerful and famous men in the world.

Roosevelt arrived in Tromsø on 1 August 1901. One of the first things he noticed from the deck of Prinzessin Victoria Louise was the mighty mountain east of Tromsøya island – Tromsdalstind. Franklin D. Roosevelt was a sporty young man, and he decided there and then to climb to the top of the mountain.

If he had said that he wanted to climb to the top of the mountain, then that would be the case. Accompanied by classmate Theodore Douglas Robinson and two others who were on the same cruise, he made his way across the strait to Tromsdalen and walked up the valley before the ascent to the top of the mountain started.

It proved to be a dramatic hiking trip, at least if we are to believe Sara Roosevelt. She claimed that her son came close to losing his

Franklin D. Roosevelt visited Tromsø and the city’s famous mountain, Tromsdalstind, many years before he became the President of the United States.

The book Nordens Paradis by former editor Jonny Hansen was published in autumn 2017.

With the author’s permission, here is an excerpt from the book (translated to English).

alstind in the background.

C HIKE IN TROMSØ life on Tromsdalstind. He fell so badly that it was a matter of life and death for young Franklin, she claimed.

One of those who was told the story of the dramatic mountain climb was the former Norwegian Foreign Affairs Minister, Halvdan Koht.

He was on an official visit to the United States in 1937, four years after Franklin D. Roosevelt became president. He was invited to the Roosevelt home in Hyde Park, New York. The topic of discussion was the state of international affairs. Adolf Hitler had long been in power in Germany, and the developments were ominous. Consequently, it was quite natural for the American President and Norwegian Foreign Affairs Minister to discuss the state of international affairs.

The present’s mother was also in attendance. When it was mentioned that Halvdan Koht had lived in Tromsø during his childhood, it was inevitable that both mother and son would raise their journey of 1901 to the North Cape and the visit to Tromsø and Tromsdalstind. “Franklin fell down the mountain near the top and could have

killed himself,” said Sara Roosevelt to Halvdan Koht, referring to the diary she had written at the time: Franklin and Teddy and 2 others climbed a high snow-covered hill and got back very late, much exhausted. A dangerous experiment, she wrote.

So, the question is where did Roosevelt fall so badly that his life was in danger? It was unlikely to have been the so-called “north face”.

Nor the route that goes up from the south. Neither of these are so dangerous that a life could be at risk. But perhaps Roosevelt and his hiking companions had chosen a different route to those that are now marked trails. In that case, he may have fallen and “been in mortal danger”.

No matter what: This dramatic mountain hike provides a permanent link between Tromsø and the 32nd President of the United States of America.

by Jonny Hansen 33

Bardus Bistro & Bar is at its heart a Northern Norwegian experience.

A traditional Northern kitchen & cocktail bar dedicated to combining the finest products in the region to produce the highest quality experience.

Big flavours and casual service is what defines Bardus, whether it’s serving the finest local produce such as reindeer, king crab, moose or fresh fish in the Bistro or the finest Arctic cocktails in the Bar.

34

Tromsø Museum Comprehensive displays on the Sami culture, past and present.

The history of Earth presented in our new exhibition “TellUS” (opening 19 June).

Opening hours 1 June – 31 Aug.: 09.00 - 18.00 1 Sept. – 31 May: Mon - Fri 10.00 - 16.30 Saturday 12.00 - 15.00 Sunday 11.00 - 16.00 uit.no/tmu

Explore the Northern Lights – make your own in our plasma chamber!

Large exhibition on natural and manmade changes in Nature.

Stone Age exhibition, Viking longhouse and medieval church art. Sami turf hut outside open during summer. Well-stocked museum shop.

The Polar Museum The museum is situated in an historic customs warehouse from the 1830s, delightfully located on the waterfront of the historic Skansen.

Opening hours 1 Sept. – 31 May: 11.00 - 17.00 1 June – 31 Aug.: 09.00 18.00 uit.no/tmu/polarmuseet

Discover polar history; exiting stories of risky Arctic trapping and sea mammal hunting, as well as courageous explorers like Fridtjof Nansen and Roald Amundsen. New exhibition “Wanny and Henry: Hunting and trapping in the Arctic” opening 13 June.

35

AN ENGLISH SPEAKER’S GUIDE TO TROMSØ

Although Tromsø and the surrounding area are now popular tourist destinations virtually year-round, most place names and signs remain largely in Norwegian. Some common expressions get translated rather literally, too. This article is designed to provide English-speaking visitors with useful background information to add an extra dimension to the Tromsø experience.

THE SPERMING CLUB IN KARLSØY

ROAD FINANCED BY ALCOHOL SALES

The place name once voted as the county’s funniest is Våtræva (wet arse), a large rock in Kvæfjord municipality near Harstad in South Troms. Another contender is Sædingsklubben in Karlsøy municipality. Named after an old dialect name for a breed of sea gull, the name of the hill literally means “the sperming club”.

A major road in Tromsø, Dramsveien (dram road), was financed by the sale of alcohol in the 19th century.

The term dram (a small measure of whisky) is also used in Scotland. Well before the establishment of the government-owned Vinmonopolet (Wine Monopoly), the Tromsø Samlag for Brændevinshandel (The Tromsø Cooperative for Liquor Sales) opened two sales outlets and three pubs in 1878.

THE STREETS OF TROMSØ Storgata is the Norwegian version of the English high street. The section of Storgata in the city centre is a gågata (pedestrian street). Other street names in Tromsø include Tromsø’s oldest street, Sjøgata (sea street), Midnattsolvegen (Midnight Sun road), Nordlysveien (Northern Lights road), Idrettsveien (sports road), Havnegata (port street), Bankgata (bank street) and Turistvegen (tourist road), which leads to Fjellheisen (the Cable Car).

36

THE NAMES AND MEANINGS OF TROMSØ’S MANY ISLANDS NOT REINDEER AND WATER ISLAND

...ØY = ISLAND Tromsø is named after Tromsøya, the island on which the city centre is situated. The second part of the word means “island”, while the first part was probably derived from the word straumr meaning “strong stream”. Some believe that the island was originally called Lille Tromsøya (Little Tromsøya) because it’s beside a much larger island, now called Kvaløya. That island was previously called Store Tromsøya (Big Tromsøya) due to the characteristic mountain known as Tromma (the drum).

Two other nearby islands, Reinøya and Vannøya, have names that are often incorrectly translated into English. The former is often called “Reindeer island” but was originally named after another meaning of the word rein and actually means the “island with mountain ridges”. Many assume the rocky island Vannøya (also called Vanna) is named after a lake as vann means “water”, but the name is derived from varna meaning a “place giving protection”.

WEEKEND ISLAND?

Another nearby island Helgøya, no longer has a permanent population, but the picturesque wooden homes on the islands are popular holiday homes.

A direct translation of helg (weekend) would now be an appropriate name.

However, the name means den hellige øy (the holy island) from the Old Norse word helgi (holy). Helgøya has been a church site since the 13th century. The current church was erected in 1888 after being moved from Hamn i Senja.

Hamn (harbour) was an old trading post with a natural harbour and is now a popular tourist resort.

SOMMARØY = SUMMER ISLAND

A popular excursion from Tromsø is to the island of Sommarøy, which can be reached by bridge from Kvaløya. The name “Summer Island” originates to an historic Sami farm, part of which was only used during the summer months.

To this day, Sami reindeer husbandry involves winter pastures in the inland and summer grazing areas on the coast.

SEAL FJORD ON WHALE ISLAND

A highlight on Kvaløya is Ersfjord, a narrow fjord surrounded by high mountains rising directly from sea level. It was originally spelt Ertzfjord as ertz was an old name for the grey seal, which was a common sight near the island. Hence, there is a “seal fjord” on “whale island”.

KVAL = WHALE

Kvaløya, which is accessed by bridge from near Tromsø Airport, is commonly referred to as “Whale Island”. The name is appropriate given the large numbers of whales spotted off the coast of the island in recent years. Many local tour guides simply refer to it as Whale Island.

The island is 737 square kilometres, making it Norway’s fifth largest island.

The sixth largest island, Ringvassøya, is reached by tunnel from Kvaløya. The 10 km long lake Skogsfjordvatnet (forest fjord lake) is the largest lake on an island in the country. Literally translated, Ringvassøya means “Circle Lake Island”.

FUGL = BIRD

Further north is the island NordFugløya (North Bird Island). The island is protected as a nature reserve owing to the rich bird life. Birds nesting here include white-tailed eagle, puffin, the eider duck and the razorbill. People venturing out to the island on organised boat trips can also see otters and grey seals and in the autumn can pick the golden coloured cloudberry.

SKITTENELV = DIRTY RIVER

Other place names near Tromsø include Laksvatn (salmon lake), Skittenelv (dirty river), Grøtfjord (porridge fjord), Storsteinnes (large rock on a headland) and Skogsvika (forest bay).

37

High Quality

OMEGA-3

from Tromsø Olivita combines omega-3 from seal oil with a special cold pressed olive oil that contains very good antioxidants.

The combination of these two natural oils is based on more than 20 years of research at the University of Tromsø, and it provides the unique health effects.

The result is a natural and healthy mixture of omega-3, antioxidants and anti-inflammatory components.

The best of both worlds

Eskimos and people in Mediterranean countries both have much lower rates of heart disease than in Norway and the rest of Europe.

Olivita has combined the best of Eskimo diet with the best of Mediterranean diet. Proper balance of the marine oil and olive oil is essential for health benefits.

Cardiovascular system

Cardiovascular disease is one of the most common causes of death in the Western world. The most frequent cause of cardiovascular disorders, such as infarct, arrhythmias and angina, is clogged arteries, or atherosclerosis, which is also the precursor to a heart attack.

Olivita prevents cardiovascular diseases by coun-

38

teracting the formation of plaque in the arteries.

A recent study in mice showed that Olivita provides 57% protection against the development of atherosclerosis, whereas an omega-3 product from fish oil gave 17% protection.

Cholesterol

Studies show that Olivita helps to create the right balance between beneficial and unhealthy cholesterol by increasing the good HDL cholesterol which

HEALTH BENEFITS • Olivita protects against the development of atherosclerosis, thrombosis and stroke and the benefits are documented by clinical studies.

• The oil also works on relieving psoriasis, as well as joint and muscle pain.

• The superb health effects are due to the special combination of omega-3 seal oil and highly inflammatory components of cold pressed olive oil.

• A superior and reinforced anti-inflammatory effect is obtained when the marine oil and the olive oil are mixed in a particular ratio. Today, we know that most disease states are associated with inflammation.

Visit the omega-3 shop in Tromso is associated with reduction in cardiovascular diseases. Evidence indicates that this is more important than focusing solely on a low level of the bad LDL cholesterol.

Joints and muscles

In people with arthritis, synovial fluid contains particles derived from activated blood platelets that cause inflammation in the joints.

When omega-3 from seal oil and cold pressed olive oil are mixed in a certain ratio, the result is a superior anti-inflammatory effect that is beneficial for arthritis and other rheumatic disorders such as osteoarthritis and Bechterew’s disease.

Skin disorders

Psoriasis, eczema and other skin disorders are caused by inflammatory products in a similar manner as rheumatism. Olivita reduces the formation of inflammatory components and, therefore, has a beneficial effect on psoriasis and other skin disorders.

Autoimmune diseases

Several auto-immune diseases are associated with inflammatory reactions. Consequently, it is likely that Olivita will have beneficial effect on diseases such as Crohn’s disease, ulcerative colitis, Sjøgren syndrome, lupus, multiple sclerosis (MS) and all rheumatic conditions.

Products

Olivita is available in liquid form (natural and natural lemon-flavoured oil) and as capsules. Vitamin D is added to all products.

Where is Olivita sold?

You can buy Olivita via our online store (www.olivita.com) or directly from our omega-3 shop in downtown Tromsø.

Address: Grønnegata 78-88 Opening hours: 08:30-16:00 (Monday-Friday) Tel: +47 4643 3000 E-mail: post@olivita.com

39

AN ENGLISH SPEAKER’S GUIDE TO TROMSØ

NORWEGIAN IS A DIALECT LANGUAGE

I'll write it behind my ear!

Don’t be surprised if Norwegians greet you by saying “Takk for sist” (Thank you for last time). They really mean “Nice to see you again”!

If your waiter says “Håper det smaker” (Hope it tastes) when serving your meal, they mean “I hope you enjoy your meal”!

By the way, a vacuum cleaner is a “støvsuger” (dust sucker), a fridge is a “kjøleskap” (cooling cupboard) and an electric kettle is a “vannkoker” (water boiler).

If a Norwegian says she will “write something behind her ear” (skriv noe bak øret), it’s a direct translation. She really means he will make a mental note or remember it.

If a Norwegian says she will “write something behind her ear” (skrive noe bak øret), it’s a direct translation. She really means she will make a mental note or remember it.

STENGT = CLOSED

Common signs in shop windows are åpen (open) and stengt (closed).

Opening hours are written using the 24-hour clock, usually stating weekdays followed by Saturday opening hours in brackets. Shops are generally closed on Sunday. An example of this is 08-22 (09-18), meaning the shop in question is open from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. on weekdays and from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Saturdays. It’s worth noting that some shops and offices have different opening hours in summer and winter and reduced opening hours on the last day before a public holiday.

ROOF AVALANCHE

BLOOD ON YOUR TOOTH

Perhaps the most important sign of all for visitors to Tromsø to understand is Fare for takras (Risk of snow sliding from the roof). You can ignore this if you visit in summewr. However, if you are here in winter or spring, it’s not a good idea to walk near a slanted roof full of snow and ice as it may suddenly slide down in milder weather creating a “roof avalanche”. Pavements below such roofs should be cordoned off when there is a genuine risk, but this is quite rare in Tromsø. Although cases of people being killed by a “takras” are rare, people being covered by snow or damage to parked cars are far more common.

If If someone says you have “blood on your tooth” (blod på tannen), they really mean you are “inspired or driven to do something”. And if they tell you to have “ice in your stomach” (is i magen), they are just saying to bide your time or not to rush.

HIGH PARKING FINES It’s common to see parking signs stating “Maks 2 timer” (Maximum 2 hours). Obviously, the number of hours may change. As parking fines in Tromsø can be high, it’s inadvisable to take any chances.

40

FARTS(HAHA!)DEMPERE = SPEED BUMPS Don’t try to stop a bus stating Ikke i rute (not in service) or use a cash dispenser that is i ustand (out of order). Many English-speaking tourists are highly amused by the street sign Farts dempere (speed bumps) and the automated sign stating Din fart (your speed). To avoid a hefty fine, it’s advisable to stick to the fartsgrense (speed limit).

THE NORWEGIAN WORD FOR SUIT IS DRESS You may think business people in Tromsø are casually dressed. It’s not uncommon to turn up for work wearing jeans and a casual shirt. However, people here save their finest clothes for holidays. Virtually everyone celebrates Christmas, New Year and perhaps even Easter wearing a suit or dress. Just to add to the confusion, the Norwegian word for suit is dress!

WHY DID YOU SAY ”BRA”?

If a Norwegian says “bra” to a female visitor, he is probably not asking to see her underwear. Instead, he simply means it’s “good”.

TO BE OR NOT TO BE IN THE BUTTER’S EYE If your guide does not speak English so well and says you are in “the middle of the butter’s eye”. Don’t worry, he/ she won’t throw butter at you. They are simply translating the common Norwegian expression (Å være midt i smørøyet) literally and really mean you’re in the “best possible spot”, e.g. to see the Midnight Sun.

If you enter someone’s house, it’s customary to remove your shoes and enter wearing socks.

WHAT’S UNDER YOUR LIP?

This Guide is written by Gavin Tanguay.

Gavin originates from New Zealand but has lived in Tromsø for many years. He runs a local company translating tourism-related texts (including this magazine) from Norwegian to English.

At first glance, you could be excused for thinking many Norwegian men (and some women) have a serious gum disease. It’s probably “snus”, a moist powder tobacco, which many put under their upper lip instead of smoking.

41

WELCOME TO THE NORTHERNMOST MAGIC ICE! Magic Ice is an art gallery and bar made completely of ice. Inside Magic Ice, you can discover the history of Tromsø through ice sculptures. This year’s theme is about life in the Arctic; famous Arctic explorers, expeditions in the Arctic, Arctic wildlife, costal life and Sami culture.

Magic Ice is the perfect outing for all ages. Welcome to an enchanting and magical adventure, a sub-zero experience that you’ll never forget!

Step inside and be amazed as you come face to face with some of Norway’s most historic and famous explorers while you experience what life is like inside the Arctic Circle. We’ll give you a winter poncho and gloves

FOR MORE INFORMATION: www.magicice.no/listings/tromso-norway www.facebook.com/magicicetromso E-mail: tromso@magicice.no Address: Kaigata 4, 9008 Tromsø Phone: + 47 413 01 050 Open Every Day - All Year!

42

to wear inside and the chance to sip from an ice glass as we serve our signature drink based on Arctic Crowberry at the icebar. Snap away! Who can get the best selfie with one of our tremendous sculptures?

We’re located in the heart of Tromsø – Kaigata 4 (on the quayside at Prostneset).

We look forward to seeing you at Magic Ice!

43