BruceGoodlad,theSkiClub'sSafetyAdviser,givesusthelow-down onthebestspecialistkitforskimountaineering

I've spent over 20 years leading ski trips around the world that range from off-piste skiing in my local ski resort of Saint Gervais to climbing new peaks in Antarctica. I'm often asked what the difference between ski touring and ski mountaineering is. In my opinion, the transition comes when we swap skis for crampons and ski poles for an ice axe.

When I ask clients to bring an axe and crampons on a trip, it often raises two concerns: where are we going that's so extreme, and will they weigh down my rucksack? The first depends on the nature of the trip, while the answer to the second is not as much as you may think. Modern materials and design technology mean high performance kit is remarkably lightweight. Still wondering why we need an ice axe and crampons? Imagine you're skinning to a summit and the snow goes from soft powder to hard wind pack. You could give up or put on ski crampons, which work with your skins to give extra grip and security. The terrain then either becomes too hard for crampons or too exposed for skis. At this point, you stash your skis on your pack, attach your crampons, swap a ski pole for an ice axe and carry on to bag that elusive summit. I've tested the items below to ensure you never have to forgo a summit due to kit:

1.PETZLRIDEICEAXE(2406,45CM)

I've been using this for the past five years. It's a really light ice axe that, at 45cm in length, fits neatly inside your rucksack, meaning you're less likely to stab yourself or anyone else with it, and unlikely to lose it in a fall. The axe has a steel head (some models have less robust aluminium heads), for when you have to cut a step or a platform to put your skis on when transitioning from skis 24 skiclub.co.uk to crampons or back again. I've added a TRIGREST (£14; alpinetrek.co.uk) to mine -a sliding handle that makes it easier to hold on steeper terrain. £84.99; ellis-brigham.com

2.PETZLGULLYICEAXE(2806,45CM)

For those seeking something more technical, the steel pick of the Gully is more steeply inclined to give added grip on steeper terrain. The shaft is exactly the same as the Petzl Ride, perfect to slot inside your rucksack, and a great balance between weight and performance. A TRIGRESTis included with this model. £112;alpinetrek.co.uk

3.BLACKDIAMONDRAVENPROICEAXE(3736,50CM)

Those who dabble in mountaineering, but want a lighter weight axe that covers multiple bases, should consider the Raven Pro. The Pro version of the popular Raven adds a curve to the shaft, making it more comfortable and secure when plunging the axe into the snow, and shaving off some of the weight. The steel head is well made and very comfortable to hold with gloves on, with the addition of grooves in the bottom of the shaft to make it easier to grip. £120; blackdiamondequipment.com

4.BLACKDIAMONDVENOMLT(2406,45CM)

I'm very excited about this new Black Diamond tool. With a curved shaft similar to the Petzl tools, it's the same length, so will fit inside your pack easily. It also has an aluminium head and steel pick to keep the weight down and functionality up. I'm excited about the way you can change the pick to a steeper version for more technical ascents, and can also attach a hammer and hand rest (like the Petzl Ride). These features come as standard on the Venom Lt Tech version. Furthermore, you can use the tool as the handle for the Black Diamond Transfer Light Shovel. I intend to carry the Transfer shovel handle when the chances of avalanche are generally greater before using the Venom Lt axe as the handle -saving weight and the amount of kit I have to carry in the ski touring season. £140; blackdiamondequipment.com

.6.BillGibson, capturedbyBruce Goodlad,heading fromsummitto seainOksfjord, Norwayshowing thatit'sinvariably worthbagging thatelusive summit...

5.BLACKDIAMONDTRANSFERLTSHOVEL(4086}

This is the lightest UIAA rated shovel on the market (all shovels and probes should be rated by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation, or Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme, or UIAA).I initially struggled to take this shovel seriously as it's so light -over 200g lighter than my current version. The design works really well, cutting into avalanche debris and moving snow as effectively as anything else I have used. The handle folds up really small and the shaped handle is easy to hold. The shaped entry point where you slide the handle into the blade is brilliant. The handle only fits into the shovel in one orientation, so the sprung pin that locks the two together always locates first time. £110; blackdiamondequipment.com

6.BCA5HAXEICEAXE/SHOVEL

The BCAShaxe system has been around for several years and is the inspiration behind the Black Diamond Venom Axe and the Transfer Shovel combination. The blade on the Shaxe is excellent for digging, and the shaft has a removable handle that can be swapped for an ice axe head. The aluminium head works really well as an ice axe, although I preferred the previous steel head: it was the only ice axe I took to Antarctica the last time I went.

The other great thing with the Shaxe is that it comes with a kit that can easily convert the shaft and blade, combined with a pair of skis, to create a rescue sledge. This relies on having holes in the tip and tail of the skis, but I just carry a drill bit in my spares kit that fits into a screwdriver that I carry for adjusting bindings. If we are ever in the situation where we have to move a skier with a broken leg then I'm sure they won't mind me drilling a hole in their skis. £139.95; mountainsports.co.uk

Crampons

In the mountaineering world we always use crampons made out of steel to give the best possible grip when climbing. When ski touring or ski mountaineering, crampons are usually worn for a short distance to reach a summit, so a crampon made from aluminium, or a mixture of aluminium and steel, is appropriate and saves a significant weight. The best attachment systems for ski boots have a wire bail at the toe and a clip at the heel; models with a plastic toe strap never seem to fit ski boots very well.

7.PETZLLEOPARDFLEXLOCK(384G)ANDIRVl5(5706)

The first time I saw Petzl's lightweight crampons with the front and back joined together with string I thought it was a ridiculous idea. But it turns out the static Cord-Tee system that links the front and back of the crampons is great, and the flexibility of the cord means the crampons fold up incredibly small, so they take up minimal room in your rucksack. Lots of guides now carry these as a matter of course as they're so light. The Irvis is the same design as the Leopard, but the front half is made of steel, not aluminium, making for a robust crampon that copes well with more technical terrain. £129.99; ellis-brigham.com

8.BLACKDIAMONDNEVEPRO(3946)

These new Black Diamond crampons feature some Petz! design ideas, but use a wire to attach the front and rear of the crampons, making them more robust. They also have a really simple adjustment system and come with anti-baling plates. These stop damp snow sticking to the underside of the crampon (featured in the Petzl Irvis but not the Leopard). For me, this gives them the edge over the Petz! models as the wire is so flexible they fold up easily for storage. £150; blackdiamondequipment.com