Historic Scotland Autumn 2020

HISTORIC SCOTLAND

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Cover

Dive in to our coastal collection

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Inside the archives FORT GEORGE LARGS DUFF HOUSE STONEHAVEN

AUTUMN 2020

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AUTUMN 2020 THE MAGAZINE FOR HISTORIC SCOTLAND MEMBERS

INSIDE Edinburgh Castle Linlithgow Palace Blackness Castle Stirling Castle Urquhart Castle

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Welcome back Which properties are opening and when

Test your knowledge

The Big History Quiz BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN

SPEAKING OUT

Douglass’s journey from slave to statesman

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Welcome VERSION

Welcome to

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HISTORIC SCOTLAND

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We reached a significant milestone in August as we welcomed visitors back to Edinburgh Castle, Stirling Castle and Urquhart Castle – a historic moment following their longest period of closure since the Second World War. We’ve also enabled access to more than 200 of our unstaffed and key-keeper sites across the country, and are currently working through a phased programme to reopen the remaining key sites across the country. Please see historicreopening.scot for details on where to visit and how to book.

It’s been a lot of hard work to reach this point, and the support of our Historic Scotland members has been crucial. Through your continued contributions, we’ve been able to maintain our work to protect these precious historic sites, and get them ready to welcome you back safely.

Throughout the lockdown period, it has been heartening to see how much Scotland’s historic environment means to people all over the country and beyond. The closure of our sites has emphasised just how important it is that people have the opportunity to engage with heritage and to explore our historic places. I hope you will enjoy rediscovering Scotland’s history.

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TAKE TWO

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THANK YOU

ALEX PATERSON CEO

HOW MEMBERS HELP US TO PROTECT SCOTLAND’S HERITAGE

COVER: SHUTTERSTOCK, CROWN COPYRIGHT: HES, WORLD HISTORY ARCHIVE / ALAMY. SHUTTERSTOCK

CONTRIBUTORS

A pair of mallards at Linlithgow loch A lesser scaup in Holyrood Park

LISA WILLIAMS Scotland’s Black history (page 30) Lisa is founder of the Edinburgh Caribbean Association and an honorary fellow of the University of Edinburgh

JOAN MCFADDEN Marvellous medicine (page 18) Freelance journalist Joan writes regularly for the Guardian, the Telegraph, the Times and the Herald

NEIL GREGORY History on your doorstep (page 42) Neil is Deputy Head of Engagement in the Heritage Directorate at Historic Environment Scotland

Delightful ducks

If you want to feast your eyes on a brace of waterfowl head to Linlithgow Palace, nestled beside the town’s quack-tastic loch.

Or you could take a gander around Holyrood Park to find even more feathered friends.

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CONTENTS A U T U M N

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HISTORIC ENVIRONMENT SCOTLAND Longmore House, Salisbury Place, Edinburgh EH9 1SH 0131 668 8600 historicenvironment.scot Membership enquiries 0131 668 8999 members@hes.scot Editorial enquiries members@hes.scot

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Head of Membership & CRM Claire Bowie Membership Operations Manager Pauline Brews Membership Operations Supervisor Hannah Rose

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Editor Fiona McKinlay fiona.mckinlay@thinkpublishing.co.uk Editorial Assistant Jennifer Constable Design Amanda Richardson, John Pender, Alistair McGown Sub-editors Sian Campbell, Andrew Littlefield

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Advertising Sales Jamie Dawson jamie.dawson@thinkpublishing.co.uk 0203 771 7201 Executive Director, Think John Innes john.innes@thinkpublishing.co.uk

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Think Suite 2.3, Red Tree Business Suites, 33 Dalmarnock Road, Glasgow G40 4LA 0141 375 0504 Photography All images provided by Historic Environment Scotland unless otherwise stated. For access to images of Scotland and our properties, call 0131 668 8647/8785 or email images@hes.scot Historic Scotland is published quarterly and printed on paper made from pulp sourced from sustainable materials.

The views expressed in the magazine do not necessarily reflect those of Historic Environment Scotland.

All information is correct at the time of going to press. Š Historic Environment Scotland. All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole is prohibited without prior agreement of the Membership and CRM Manager of Historic Environment Scotland.

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Name of the game Tackle some TV-themed brain teasers in our Big History Quiz

Historic Environment Scotland (HES) is a Non Departmental Public Body established by the Historic Environment Scotland Act 2014. HES has assumed the property, rights, liabilities and obligations of Historic Scotland and RCAHMS. Visit historicenvironment.scot/about-us Scottish Charity No. SC045925.

24 Coastal classics from the HES archives 2 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

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30 Scotland’s Black history

Contents

Plan your next adventure

Duddingston Loch in Holyrood Park

FORT GEORGE P25

CLAVA CAIRNS P11

MAIDEN STONE P40

URQUHART CASTLE P6

RUTHVEN BARRACKS P8

LINLITHGOW PALACE P7

BLACKNESS CASTLE P4

DOUNE CASTLE P51

Access to properties

HOLYROOD PARK P16

STIRLING CASTLE P40 EDINBURGH CASTLE P7

We are taking a phased approach to reopening our sites, with additional precautions around hygiene and physical distancing in place. Please check historicreopening.scot for the latest information and to book before travelling

KILWINNING ABBEY P9

CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE P8

REGULARS

SHUTTERSTOCK, HES (SIR WILLIAM ARROLL COLLECTION), NEW-YORK HISTORICAL SOCIETY

Do you know what place Doune Castle ‘played’ in Game of Thrones?

ACCESSIBLE VERSION Historic Scotland magazine is also available as an accessible PDF. Please log in to our website at historicenvironment.scot/member to download your copy, or contact the membership team on 0131 668 8999 and they will be happy to help.

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THE SCRIPT News and updates from around the country 16 SPOTLIGHT 54 SHOP 56 TIME TRIP FEATURES

18 MARVELLOUS MEDICINE A check-up of Scotland’s medical history 24 DIVE ON IN Exhibition sneak peek 30 ‘WE’VE BEEN HERE FOR 1,800 YEARS’

Lisa Williams delves into Scotland’s Black history

36 CURIOUS CREATURES Kelpies, unicorns and other fantastic beasts 42 HISTORY ON YOUR DOORSTEP

Use our tools to learn more about your area 48 THE BIG HISTORY QUIZ Factual fun for the family HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 3

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Big picture

Strengthening Scotland’s coastal defences many – it had already served as a residence, a prison and a barracks.

The reason for this development was to help strengthen Scotland’s coastal defences, spurred on by the threat of invasion

by Napoleon III of France a few years earlier. Blackness had seen its fair share of

French visitors in the past – between 1759 and 1815 the castle was used as a transit camp for prisoners of war on their way to Edinburgh Castle.

Some 45,000 prisoners passed through the castle in this time, captured during wars with France, Spain and the fledgling America.

BLACKNESS CASTLE

SHUTTERSTOCK

In 1870, Blackness Castle became the central ammunition depot for Scotland, supplying Rosyth and fortified islands on the Firth of Forth. The cast iron pier was built in preparation for this, and the entire courtyard was given a roof.

This change of role for the property was one of

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PEOPLE, PLACES, RESEARCH AND MOREÉ

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Welcome back!

Selected Historic Scotland properties reopen to the public

A URQUHART CASTLE

STIRLING CASTLE DOUNE CASTLE

LINLITHGOW PALACE TANTALLON CASTLE

EDINBURGH CASTLE DUNDONALD CASTLE CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE

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fter four long months in lockdown, on Saturday 1 August the first ticketed visitors arrived at Edinburgh Castle, Stirling Castle and Urquhart Castle.

Due to ongoing government restrictions and general safety concerns arising from the coronavirus pandemic, we are opening on a phased basis and there are limited areas open initially. We hope to welcome visitors indoors soon, with certain precautions – such as physical distancing, and only allowing a limited number of people into particular areas at any one time – firmly in place.

Our aim is to have 25 of our ticketed sites open by the end of September.

This includes such favourites as Glasgow Cathedral, Fort George and St Andrews Castle.

On 15 July, over 200 unstaffed and key-keeper sites across Scotland, including Crookston Castle and Deer Abbey, were reopened to the public.

The grounds and green spaces at Doune Castle, Caerlaverock Castle and Dundonald Castle were also opened with free access.

Visitors, including members, are now required to pre-book visits to our ticketed properties online. The Historic Scotland app will have the latest information about which sites are currently open.

The difficult decision was made to not reopen more than 40 of our seasonal properties, with the exception of Inchcolm Abbey, allowing us to focus on welcoming visitors back to properties which are open all year round.

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PLAN YOUR TRIP

Tantallon Castle

STAR ATTRACTIONS TO VISIT THIS AUTUMN u Aberdour Castle u Blackness Castle u Caerlaverock Castle u Craigmillar Castle u Dirleton Castle u Doune Castle u Dryburgh Abbey u Dumbarton Castle u Dunblane Cathedral u Dunstaffnage Castle u Edinburgh Castle u Elgin Cathedral

u Fort George u Glasgow Cathedral u Huntly Castle u Inchcolm Abbey u Jedburgh Abbey u Linlithgow Palace & Peel u Melrose Abbey

u Skara Brae u St Andrews Castle u St Andrews Cathedral u Stirling Castle u Tantallon Castle u Urquhart Castle

Remember to book tickets in advance by visiting historicreopening.scot

Linlithgow Palace & Peel

WE’VE MISSED YOU EXPLORE SOME OLD AND NEW FAVOURITE SPOTS

HALF MOON BATTERY Edinburgh Castle ●●At the top of Castle Rock you

SHUTTERSTOCK

can stand alongside 19th-century cannons made during the Napoleonic Wars and look out across the city.

QUEEN ANNE GARDEN

TREBUCHET

Stirling Castle ●●A peaceful and beautifully kept garden on the sunny south side of Stirling Castle, where historians believe there may have been a royal garden since the 1400s.

Urquhart Castle ●●Reconstructed from a 13th-century design, the great timber trebuchet at Urquhart Castle will take you back to the turbulent times of the Scottish Wars of Independence.

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10 places to visit now Have a fun day out at these properties

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Clava Cairns

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Estimated to be around 4,000 years old, this ancient cemetery is set on a terrace above the River Nairn. The landscape here was an important place for ritual and burial activities during the Bronze Age, and the remains we see today would have been part of a much larger complex.

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Ruthven Barracks

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Built by George II’s government in the early 1700s after the failed Jacobite uprising of 1715, Ruthven Barracks housed government troops who were charged with enforcing the Disarming Act of 1716. The barracks also incorporated a guardroom, a prison, a bakehouse and a brewhouse.

Doune Castle

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Famously the home of Robert Stewart, the 1st Duke of Albany, Doune Castle’s impressive architecture has led to it being a popular film and television location, having featured in Monty Python and the Holy Grail, Outlander and Game of Thrones.

Caerlaverock Castle

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Caerlaverock Castle has been besieged and captured on numerous occasions.

Under the ownership of the Maxwell family the fortress was upgraded to include impressive machicolations (slotted defences) at the top of each tower.

Aberdour Castle

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Aberdour Castle may be Scotland’s oldest standing castle, dating back to the 1100s. James Douglas, appointed Regent of Scotland in 1572, undertook extensions to the castle in the 1570s and probably oversaw the laying out of the terraced gardens, inspired

by French architecture and landscape gardening

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Doune Castle is protected as a scheduled ancient monument

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Antonine Wall: Bearsden Bath House

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The Antonine Wall would have been defended by 16 forts, including Bearsden, built across Scotland’s central belt from AD 140. An excellent example of Roman stone structures, the Bearsden Bath House was discovered in the early 1970s by builders working on a nearby housing estate.

Kilwinning Abbey

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Sir Richard de Morville is believed to have founded Kilwinning Abbey in the late 1100s.

Different masonry types found in the ruins of the abbey indicate that it was the result of several building operations. During the Protestant Reformation of 1560 the abbey was set upon and John Knox wrote of it being “cast down” by a Protestant mob.

Melrose Abbey

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Badly damaged by the army of Edward II in 1322, the first reconstruction of Melrose Abbey was ordered by Robert the Bruce. King Robert was so fond of the abbey it is claimed that his embalmed heart is interred here in a lead container rediscovered during an archaeological excavation in 1996.

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For nearly three centuries, Huntly Castle served as the seat of one of medieval and Renaissance Scotland’s most powerful families. In 1576 it was also the site of a fatal football match, when George Gordon, 5th Earl of Huntly, collapsed and died while playing a game outside on the green. The castle’s heraldic ‘frontispiece’, added around 1602, is so stunning it has no serious rival in the British Isles.

Linlithgow Palace

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The birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots in 1542, Linlithgow Palace also served as an ideal rest stop for royals travelling between Edinburgh Castle and Stirling Castle, primarily in the 16th century. Today the magnificent ruins of Linlithgow offer visitors some unique insights into the domestic affairs of Scottish royalty.

Please check our website before travelling in case of any unexpected closures, and follow current government guidelines. See historicenvironment.scot

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ANGUS MCCOMISKEY / ALAMY, SHUTTERSTOCK, JEREMY SUTTON-HIBBERT / ALAMY

Huntly Castle

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Pictures of the past: Clava Cairns in 2020 and, inset, family photos from 1982 and 2006

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Monitor duty

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Your snaps can help identify problems at our properties

The Monument Monitor project invites visitors to historic sites across Scotland to get involved in citizen science by sharing their photos online.

The images can document evidence of water damage, vandalism and littering.

Until spring 2022, the Monument Monitor team want your pictures of a range of properties, such as Machrie Moor in Arran, Achnabreck in Kilmartin Glen and Clava Cairns, including old holiday

photos – the older the better. Look out for signs at participating sites which will ask you to take photographs of specific features.

The research project is a collaboration between us and the Institute for Sustainable Heritage at University College London.

Ava reconstructed

You can submit your photos to the project via email at submissions@ monumentmonitor.co.uk or WhatsApp on +447876822718, or by sharing on Instagram and Twitter with the hashtag #MonumentMonitor

Aberdour Castle

DNA project receives recognition

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roundbreaking research by our archaeologist Maya Hoole was nominated for the Current Archaeology Research Project of the Year 2020, after winning the RBK Stevenson Award in 2018.

DNA from the Beaker burial site in Caithness has been used to inform a reconstruction of a Bronze Age woman, known as Ava, who died more than 4,250 years ago.

Footsteps in Fife Discover the east coast with walking app

Hoole was able to reveal much about Ava, including the fact that she had straight brown hair and brown eyes.

A free augmented reality app which allows users to trace the footsteps of historic kings across Fife is available on Amazon, Android and Apple.

The trail connects a number of beautiful locations, including

Ravenscraig Castle and Aberdour Castle.

The app, created by Fife Tourism Partnership, won the prestigious Innovation Award at the 2019 Family Attraction Expo. welcometofife.com/jess

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A 3D Sketchfab rendering of Edinburgh Castle

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Caerlaverock Castle

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Virtual visits

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Discover some of our best-loved properties in 3D

The Digital Innovation and Digital Documentation teams have recently been releasing 3D Sketchfab models online.

Two of their latest models are 3D renderings of Caerlaverock Castle and

Edinburgh Castle, giving people who are currently unable to visit sites in person the ability to explore virtually, as well as look at certain prized historical items in more detail than usual.

Named in tribute to 19th-century explorer John Rae, the Rae Project takes the Digital Documentation Team

right across Scotland, recording properties and collections in 3D. From intricate jewellery boxes to iconic Scottish castles, the team use cutting-edge digital technologies to process their images into 3D virtual models.

The resource can also be useful for researchers looking to get a more in-depth

analysis of stone carvings or markings on objects.

View the 3D models at sketchfab.com/Historic EnvironmentScotland and on Twitter follow #SketchfabFriday

It’s time to tackle heritage crime How you can help us to protect Scotland’s historical assets

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n a visit to Restenneth Priory, a visitor noticed that a large stone covering a grave had been moved.

They decided to get in touch to report it.

This tampering with the grave slab is an example of heritage crime – criminal activity which harms a

heritage asset. When historical places or artefacts are damaged or stolen, we run the risk of losing a piece of the past forever, as damage may be beyond restoration and stolen objects may never be recovered.

We can take enforcement action if a heritage crime has been committed at a

scheduled monument.

Report heritage crimes to Police Scotland by calling 101 or contact Crimestoppers anonymously by phone on 0800 555 111 or online at crimestoppers-uk.org Learn more at historicenvironment.scot/ heritage-crime

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What makes these master soil-lifters tick?

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At this time of the year, badgers feed voraciously on the late summer abundance of grubs and fruits, putting on fat to last them over the winter.

Having poor eyesight, the striped creature’s sense of smell is important, used for sniffing out tasty morsels, detecting friend or foe and navigating around their territory at night.

Behind its head, powerful shoulders contain muscles that give a badger tremendous digging and lifting ability. It shifts tons of soil to make its underground home, called a set, where it lives in groups of usually 5 to 12 badgers.

This prodigious digging makes them particularly unpopular with archaeologists. Legislation has made it illegal in this country to kill badgers and interfere with their sets without a licence. This means digging near a set must be done with care, following strict guidelines.

Archaeologists have been surprised when told their dig is near a set and that therefore they must take badgers into account, including providing a sloped end to any trench that’s been created, allowing the animal a convenient escape route should it fall in.

FAST FACT The old Scots name for a badger is brock, the root of such place names as Broxburn

Badgers have been digging at Threave and Craignethan castles recently

VIEW FROM OUTDOORS WITH

Bob Tevendale NATURAL HERITAGE ADVISOR

Other than humans, the badger has no predators.

In the past, lynx, wolf and bear, now extinct, would all have eaten them.

Badgers were widely hunted in this country until quite recently, both for useful products and pest control, as well as, unfortunately, for amusement.

The animal’s historical usages are varied. There is archaeological evidence of a Celtic prince being lain on badger skins. Their pelts used to be used as jackets and badger hams were common in rural kitchens.

A badger is also traditionally used for the sporrans of officers of the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders.

Badgers do not hibernate, but over the winter spend most of their time underground, often going into a deep sleep called torpor, which can last for days at a time.

Come January the badgers become more active, particularly the females, who start to prepare the set for the arrival of cubs early in the year.

Eyes on the prize Test your historical knowledge by spotting which of our sites the detail below comes from … and win a £50 gift card.

ANSWER THIS QUESTION Which Historic Scotland property is this detail taken from?

A: Edinburgh Castle B: Glasgow Cathedral C: Stirling Castle UP FOR GRABS The winning entry will receive a £50 Amazon.com gift card.

HOW TO ENTER For your chance to win, visit historicenvironment. scot/guesstheplace by 30 September 2020.

Terms and conditions apply (available at the web address above).

Open to UK residents only.

GEOFFREY WALSH / ALAMY

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As tough as a badger

COMPETITION

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SPOTLIGHT VERSION

DID YOU KNOW?

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Holyrood Park

The park hosted the 102-mile bicycle road race at the 1970 Commonwealth Games on a typically wet and windy day. New Zealand’s Bruce Biddle won gold.

A spectacular spot with a volcanic past, Holyrood Park – full of wildlife, loved by royals – offers visitors millennia of history and some truly breathtaking views

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Commanding the city skyline and sprawling across 650 acres of land, Holyrood Park is a remarkable green space in Edinburgh. The park’s dramatic hills offer incredible views not only of the city but for miles around.

It’s little wonder the area has been popular throughout history, with evidence found here of farming, housing and much more going back as far as around 6,000 BC. The park is a haven for plants and wildlife, including toads who

migrate annually from hibernation spots around Arthur’s Seat back to the park’s lochs.

Otters, roe deer, kestrels and short-eared owls are among the creatures spotted here.

The maiden pink is a plant to look out for – having almost gone extinct until its recent revival in the park.

Holyrood Park is no stranger to the spotlight, having appeared in Chariots of Fire, One Day and T2 Trainspotting.

WHINNY HILL This summit was formed from lava flow. Man-made items that date back to the Mesolithic era have been discovered here

ST ANTHONY’S CHAPEL This chapel – controlled by monks from Kelso Abbey – is dedicated to St Anthony of Egypt, one of the earliest monks

ST MARGARET’S LOCH Built as part of Prince Albert’s improvements to the park, the loch is home to mute swans.

Other water birds have been excavated here from as long ago as the Mesolithic era

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Holyrood Park

Timeline PRE-HISTORY

c6000 BC

c2000 BC

c500 BC

1128

360 million years ago Holyrood Park is only a swampy, low-lying area close to the sea, located just south of the equator

Stone tools found on Whinny Hill offer the earliest evidence of people living in the area

Bronze Age farming communities create strips of level ground on the eastern flank of Arthur’s Seat to grow crops, evidence suggests

Iron Age people build settlements or hillforts, taking advantage of its natural defences

Holyrood Abbey is built as an act of thanksgiving

by King David I

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Spotlight DUDDINGSTON LOCH The largest loch in Holyrood Park and the only natural one, occupying an eight hectare area. The loch used to be popular with skaters when it froze over in cold winters PIPER’S WALK A group of Seaforth Highlanders mutinied in 1778.

They headed to Arthur’s Seat with a large group of sympathisers including a piper, who played to keep spirits up ARTHUR’S SEAT AND SALISBURY CRAGS Over millions of years, volcanic eruptions above and the movement of tectonic plates below formed the Arthur’s Seat that we see today

RADICAL ROAD Following the Radical War, in 1826 Walter Scott employed a group of unemployed weavers from the west of Scotland to convert a rough track into what became known as the Radical Road, nestled up the side of the Salisbury Crags

HUNTER’S BOG It’s said that Bonnie Prince Charlie rode down through Hunter’s Bog during the 1745 Jacobite rising, pausing in an emotional moment as he looked upon the ancient family home of the Stuarts

SHUTTERSTOCK, GL ARCHIVE / ALAMY

PALACE OF HOLYROOD HOUSE AND HOLYROOD ABBEY The monarch’s official residence in Scotland, the palace is steeped in royal history

1541

1561

c1840

1916

1977

Holyrood becomes a favourite spot for generations of Scottish kings.

Having held jousting tournaments here in preceding years, James V creates the Royal Park

Mary Queen of Scots chooses Holyrood Palace as her primary residence when she returns from France

Prince Albert organises landscaping of the park to aid its conservation

Four bombs from two German Zeppelins hit the park in an aerial attack

Sheep, which once grazed freely in the park, are finally removed as they are regarded as a hazard to motor traffic

Prince Albert

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Marvellous

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MEDICINE Travel through key moments of Scottish medical history, from ancient herbal remedies to world-leading advancements

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WORDS: JOAN MCFADDEN

Getting a head start at Cuween Hill Chambered Cairn PRODUCTION CLIENT

A hole in the head PREHISTORIC MEDICINE Skull surgery is one of the earliest medical procedures for which there is archaeological proof, including evidence found in a Neolithic burial chamber on Cuween Hill in Orkney.

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While one or two of the people whose remains lie here died from a blow to the head, there is clear evidence that one patient survived skull surgery, as the skull had an ingrowth of new bony tissue.

Skull surgery then was generally trepanation (drilling holes in the skull to release pressure).

Prehistoric evidence for the procedure has been found in Europe, Asia and the Americas.

Flower folk 500 – 1050 Folk medicine, usually provided by women, ran alongside the monastic offerings, with some believing food and herbs were magical. Plants were

dug up with a threepronged mattock and the number three was believed to be symbolic of the three stages of a woman’s life – girl, mother, ‘crone’.

As Christianity became more widespread and pagan practices evolved into Christian ritual, three came to represent the holy trinity of the

Father, the Son and the Holy Ghost. Some of the herbs used in medicine then, such as heather and broom, are still in use today.

Iona Abbey, place of pilgrimage

Purple heather growing in sight of The Buachaille munro

Cleanliness is next to godliness CRAIG BROWN STOCK / ALAMY, SHUTTERSTOCK, ABERDEEN CITY COUNCIL

500 – 1050

Carmelite friaries in Aberdeen, Perth and Linlithgow were an obvious source of medical care and advice.

The wellArthritic educated old bones monks, with their calling to help others, could access historical medical information.

The monastic hospitals offered

Artist’s impression of life in a Carmelite friary

treatment to monks, pilgrims, paupers and nobility, and the monks tended to focus on natural medical practices.

These included techniques such as blood-letting, observing good hygiene, and herbalism – often regarded as provided

by God for man’s use.

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Medicine 18-19

MEDICINE

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4TH – 8TH CENTURY

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According to legend, St Triduana sailed to what is now St Andrews in Fife with some of the bones of St Andrew, arriving in 347. A holy woman of great beauty but with no interest in men, Triduana was later wooed by Nechtan, King of the Picts.

She plucked out her eyes and impaled them on a thorn to dissuade him, retiring to Restalrig and becoming known for restoring sight to others.

In time, St Triduana’s Chapel in Restalrig became a place of pilgrimage for those with eye complaints.

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Hospital pioneer Mary of Guelders

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Royal treatment 15TH CENTURY

St Triduana’s Chapel in Restalrig

The pope blessing Notre-Dame Cathedral in 1163

Mary of Guelders was Scotland’s queen consort after marrying King James II of Scotland. She served as regent following James’s death in 1460 and founded a hospital in Edinburgh.

King James IV had a keen

interest in medicine and dentistry, and is said to have pulled at least one member of the court’s tooth. He founded King’s College at Aberdeen University which trained doctors, teachers, lawyers and clergy.

Sacred to secular

Standards for surgeons

12TH CENTURY

16TH CENTURY

A papal bill of 1163 declared that clerics should no longer let the blood of others in the cause of medical treatment. This ushered in a major change in medicine, with medical students beginning to attend universities in order to learn about the philosophy of medicine.

The movement away from religionbased treatments allowed physicians and surgeons to discuss the body and its functions in much greater detail.

Corporate organisation of surgeons and barbers – who used to perform surgery – dates from the early years of the 16th century. Much of the surgery carried out in Scotland before then was done by amateurs.

The Incorporation of Surgeons and Barbers, now known as the Royal College of Surgeons of

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Edinburgh, was founded in 1505.

The Glasgow Faculty, which became the Royal College of Physicians and Surgeons of Glasgow was founded by Peter Lowe in 1599.

Peter Lowe

Medicine 20-21

A proud profession

The Royal College of Physicians

17TH CENTURY In 1681 a charter was granted

by Charles II for the establishment of the Royal College of Physicians of Edinburgh following decades of petitioning by its founders, particularly Robert Sibbald, physician, botanist and Geographer Royal.

Many amateurs continued to offer medical services and

barbers also played a major role, performing surgical procedures such as blood-letting, pulling teeth and amputation.

However, surgeons were now drawing away from the amateurs and barbers and making it clear that they were more highly skilled and therefore a profession in their own right.

Charles II

Getting to the heart of medicine

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18TH CENTURY John Hunter was a leading figure in battlefield medicine. His work in dissection – examining dead bodies to understand how they function – made him the founder of pathological anatomy. His brother William was a pioneer in obstetrics and founded the Hunterian Museum.

Anatomy education at this time is synonymous with Burke and Hare, the body snatchers who murdered in order to supply corpses for John Hunter dissection. Burke’s death mask and pocket book are on display in the Surgeons’ Hall Museums in Edinburgh.

Breakthroughs for women 18TH – 19TH CENTURY In the 18th century Dr James Barry was the first biologically female doctor in the UK, enjoying an illustrious career as a military surgeon and hospital inspector.

Women weren’t allowed to attend university to get a medical degree, so Barry lived as a man and was only found to be a woman on their death. Pioneering surgeon Dr Elsie Inglis had

The Hunterian Museum at the University of Glasgow

Dr James Barry

started her career by studying at the Edinburgh School of Medicine for Women, opened in 1887 by Dr Sophia Jex-Blake.

Eminent positions opened up to women during World War I as male doctors were drafted into the Royal Army Medical Corps.

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WHAT KILLED THESE ROYALS?

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Statue of Sir James Young Simpson in Edinburgh

Delightful beyond measure

ST MARGARET

19TH CENTURY ART

There had been previous, unsuccessful attempts at effective anaesthesia before Sir James Young Simpson, an obstetrician, changed the face of surgery forever when he introduced the use of chloroform as an

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anaesthetic in childbirth in 1847.

Apparently practising its effectiveness on himself and a couple of friends – fortunately none of them died – Simpson’s newfangled idea gained traction when Queen

Victoria used it and described it as “delightful beyond measure”. She wasn’t alone in welcoming anaesthesia, as Simpson went on to popularise the use of it in all surgery, transforming the experience for patients.

In 1093 Malcolm Canmore, King of Scots, and his eldest son, Edward, were killed in battle. Malcolm’s wife Margaret apparently died of grief just a few days later.

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Testing times 19TH CENTURY

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Inside Craig House Hospital

Psychiatric hospitals were formally introduced in Scotland after the Lunacy Scotland Act (1857). It was thought that the quiet rural locations of the hospitals would have a restorative effect on the mind.

From the 1890s, these ‘asylums’ experimented with different kinds of therapies, primarily to treat tertiary syphilis, which was the major issue facing psychiatric institutions at the time.

MARY OF GUISE

Mary of Guise’s death in 1560 was described as being due to swelling, though there were rumours she had been poisoned. It’s believed that she suffered from oedema, or dropsy.

The dawn of modern health care 20TH CENTURY

The First World War initiated a huge change in how mental health was understood and treated, paving the way for psychotherapy and psychoanalysis in Britain.

There was a move towards physical treatments in the 1920s and 1930s, and Dr David K Henderson developed occupational therapy

at Glasgow Royal Hospital in Gartnavel.

He was the first person to do this in the UK. Controversial treatments like Electroconvulsive therapy (ECT) followed in the 1930s.

Meanwhile, in 1928, Alexander Fleming discovered penicillin, the first natural antibiotic, transforming medicine forever.

JAMES V

The king passed away in December 1542. Some believe he died in despair over his defeat at the Battle of Solway Moss, though others argue an ordinary fever was to blame.

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PORTOBELLO BATHING POOL, 1936

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Dive on in

Jane Thomas takes a dip into our archives with a selection of watery images from the Scotland’s Coasts exhibition

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he coast of Scotland has helped to define the nation’s character for thousands of years, influencing how we work, rest and play. Scotland’s Coasts, drawn from the wealth of material held

by Historic Environment Scotland, explores the country’s relationship with the sea, as told through a number of key places and buildings. As part of the Year of Coasts and Waters, we encourage everyone to explore the National Record of the Historic Environment to find out more about the coast’s continuing impact on everyday life.

FORT GEORGE

HIGHLANDS BELOW Built near Culloden, Fort George was intended to be the ultimate military deterrent against further unrest following the Jacobite uprising of 1745. This magnificent fortress was designed to the highest military standards of the time by

NYBSTER BROCH

CAITHNESS ABOVE The Iron Age builders of Nybster Broch must have chosen this exposed site, surrounded by steep cliffs on three sides, because it was easy to defend. It was only accessible by land

Lieutenant-General William Skinner. The 1,600 soldiers garrisoned here manned 80 heavy guns covering all directions from around the boundary walls. Fort George has been a military base ever since and is now home to the Black Watch, 3rd Battalion, The Royal Regiment of Scotland.

from one direction and anyone approaching from the sea would have been easy to spot. Brochs are a special type of Atlantic roundhouse which first appeared in the Iron Age and are common in Caithness.

COURTESY OF HES (ARTIST: TOM CURR), CROWN COPYRIGHT: HES, CROWN COPYRIGHT: HES, COURTESY OF HES

DUFF HOUSE

ABERDEENSHIRE LEFT Building has always been a way for the wealthy to demonstrate their success and Lord Braco was no different when he decided to build a house so enormous it would be visible from the sea.

Scotland’s leading architect, William Adam, designed Duff House in 1730 on an impressive scale. The extravagance of the project was too much even for a client as rich as Lord Braco: he never lived at the house, having fallen out with his architect over the cost, and left it to his descendants to finish the project.

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FORTH ROAD BRIDGE

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FIRTH OF FORTH RIGHT As car ownership rose in the Sixties, Edinburgh needed to be connected to Fife by road as well as rail. This view shows the bridge during the spinning of the cables from which the road surface was later suspended. A catwalk for workmen to use before the platform was added was constructed between the two towers and the land on either side; it can be seen directly below the cables.

When it opened in 1964, the new bridge was the longest steel suspension bridge in Europe.

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LARGS

NORTH AYRSHIRE LEFT As opportunities for work increased in the 19th century, so did the desire of those working in urban environments to escape to the fresh air of the coast during what little holiday they had. The expansion of the railway network transformed many places from the mid-19th century onwards, including seaside towns such as Largs.

Living in a holiday hotspot created new opportunities, if only seasonally, whether for providing accommodation, refreshments or, as this picture from 1923 suggests, hiring out rowing boats.

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FISHERMEN’S HOUSES

DUNBAR LEFT In the 1930s, Dunbar Town Council began to regenerate the town’s harbour front by providing houses for fishermen and their families, and to attract families to the town. It employed Sir Basil Spence to design the houses in two phases using traditional materials to fit in with the surrounding buildings.

THE VIKING CINEMA

HES (SIR WILLIAM ARROLL COLLECTION), HES, ANTHONY BLEE, HES, COURTESY OF HES (STRANG COLLECTION)

LARGS RIGHT The popularity of steamer excursions fuelled the development of the leisure industry along the east and west coasts. Built in 1938, this cinema’s exterior was a homage to the Battle of Largs, during which the Scots repelled a large Norwegian fleet. A portcullis could be lowered at the door and the prow of a replica Viking ship in front of the cinema added to the effect.

BEACH RESORT

AYR LEFT Railways took Glasgow Fair day trippers ‘doon the water’ to resorts on the west coast including Ayr. By the time this photograph was taken, people were beginning to photograph their holidays themselves and to make up albums with the prints once they got home. The image of children joking with the photographer as they paused mid-paddle on a beach near Ayr was a modern ‘snapshot’, far removed from the formal photographic portraiture of the past.

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BELL ROCK LIGHTHOUSE

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ANGUS BELOW Designed 200 years ago by Robert Stevenson and engineered by John Rennie, the construction of this lighthouse, 12 miles offshore, was an amazing achievement. This engraving shows the temporary lighthouse that housed the 15 men who built the permanent structure.

Staffed until 1988, it is the oldest surviving rock-built lighthouse in Britain.

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FISH MARKET ABERDEEN BELOW After steam trawling came to Aberdeen in 1882, catches expanded dramatically so that in its heyday the town was the second most successful fishing port in Britain after Grimsby. The expansion of the railway network meant catches could be delivered to markets more quickly than in the past.

SWIMMING AT THE SEASIDE STONEHAVEN ABOVE By the turn of the 20th century, going to the seaside for a holiday had become an established

tradition for many people.

Cameras had also become cheaper and easier to use as well as more portable which meant that it was possible to capture fleeting moments

of holiday fun. This jolly pair in their up-to-theminute wool bathing costumes are about to warm up in their beach hut, having just enjoyed a bracing dip.

SEE MORE The Scotland’s Coasts and Waters exhibition will be on display at Shetland Museum and Archives, Lerwick as soon the museum reopens. It will then tour around Scotland with dates and venues to be advertised in due course. Meantime, you can get a flavour of the exhibition at historicenvironment. scot/online-exhibitions. To explore the collections and archives in the National Record of the Historic Environment visit canmore.org.uk

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‘We’ve been here for over 1,800 years’

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Founder of the Edinburgh Caribbean Association and honorary fellow of the University of Edinburgh Lisa Williams delves into Scotland’s Black history PRODUCTION NORTH WIND PICTURE ARCHIVES / ALAMY, CHRONICLE / ALAMY

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he first recorded African people in Scotland were, believe it or not, the Romans.

Septimius Severus, from Libya, became the first African emperor of Rome in AD 193.

He, with his sons Caracalla and Geta, invaded ‘Caledonia’ with an army of over 30,000 men during the years 208 to 210. They operated camps from forts in Cramond and Carpow on the River Tay and created a 166-acre camp in Ardoch in the Scottish Borders, the remains of which can be seen today.

Severus’s two major campaigns were ultimately unsuccessful and, after he died in York in 211, his sons returned to Rome.

The household of James IV There were several African men and women present at the Scottish Royal Court in the early 16th century. ‘Peter the More’, a courtier who 30 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

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accompanied her on exciting riding expeditions. Potentially they are the same pair of ‘Black maidens’ who received gold coins as a New Year present in 1512. Visitors to this cosmopolitan court included four ‘Ethiopians’ in 1505 and ‘Blackamoor friars’ in 1508.

The Scottish Royal Court

Military men James IV

African men and women were present at the Scottish Royal Court enjoyed high status, lived in Scotland for periods between 1501 and 1504. The ‘More taubronar’ was a drummer who entertained the king alongside four Italian minstrels and other drummers between the years 1504 and 1506. He was paid £17 a year; equal wages to that of his contemporaries and a little extra to support his wife and child. He devised dances to be performed at court and

went on tour to places like Eskdale and Dumfries.

The ‘Moorish lassies’, possibly Margaret and Elene, were two young African ladies-in-waiting who arrived at Edinburgh Castle in 1504 to be part of the household of James’s favoured illegitimate daughter, Lady Margaret.

They received dresses of woollen cloth and red petticoats, went on tour with Margaret and likely

In 1750, one of the first people to be arrested for wearing Highland dress after Culloden was Oronoce, a Black servant to Dougal Stewart of Appin, for ‘wearing the Highland garb, or being dressed in tartan livery’.

Stewart disagreed with the Disarming Act, so perhaps poor Oronoce wasn’t actually a soldier, but sent in this attire as a political statement.

George Rose was a Jamaican soldier who escaped slavery by fighting for the British. He served in the army for over three decades, and after he was shot in the arm at the Battle of Waterloo he joined the 42nd Regiment of Foot (the famous

Black history 30-31 FREDERICK DOUGLASS: “Without a struggle, there can be no progress.”

See page 33 for more on the great abolitionist, orator, writer and statesman.

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Wedderburn legal case in Scotland Black Watch). Even though Rose was the changed the lives of those considered most senior Black soldier in the British enslaved. Joseph Knight had succeeded army, due to his injury he was in arguing that Scots law did not support discharged at Edinburgh in 1837 and the status of slavery. Knight was a young began to preach on Glasgow Green.

Jamaican man brought to Scotland by He returned to Jamaica in 1849 as a Sir John Wedderburn, a wealthy slave missionary. Another Jamaican soldier, David Louis Clemetson, while recovering plantation owner who was outraged when Knight tried to leave his from shell shock at Craiglockhart service and provide for his own Hospital in Edinburgh in 1917, family. He had married his received a letter promoting him to girlfriend Annie Thompson, a a full lieutenant in the British white servant in Wedderburn’s army, the only Black person to household, and they would hold this rank at that time. neither have been allowed to During WW2, 900 men divorce nor live together in from British Honduras (now Jamaica, where slavery the Caribbean nation of Ida B Wells remained legal.

Belize) came to Scotland as After the case was won, ‘tree fellers’ to assist the war newspaper advertisements for effort in 1941 and 1942. They won the return of ‘runaways’ were no longer the hearts of local people but their units published. James Wedderburn, John’s were disbanded due to official fears of brother, was named and shamed for his ‘race mixing’. Arriving as British citizens, violent exploitation of enslaved women many stayed in Scotland after the war in Jamaica by his mixed-race son Robert. and became part of Scottish society.

Born to Rosanna, an enslaved woman Naming and shaming who James sold when she was pregnant, In 1778, the ruling in the Knight vs. and raised by his feisty grandmother 32 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

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The Maclean family, with slave Didi

Joseph Knight succeeded in arguing that Scots law did not support slavery

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The British Honduras Forestry Unit in Britain, 1941, and inset David Louis Clemetson

John Edmonstone and Charles Darwin

‘Talkee Amy’, Robert Wedderburn arrived in London as a young man. Shunned by his own father, he became an impassioned abolitionist speaker and preacher, prominent in the revolutionary Spencean Society in the 1810s, and published The Horrors of Slavery in 1824.

STATE DARWIN MUSEUM MOSCOW, PUBLIC DOMAIN, ADAM EASTLAND / ALAMY

Joining the white elite Dorothy ‘Doll’ Thomas, was something of an anomaly. Known as the ‘Queen of Demerara’, Thomas was a mixed-race woman who bought her own freedom and that of many family members, but kept many others enslaved to run her Caribbean businesses. Although illiterate, she became a wealthy and influential business owner. With solid business acumen and lavish outfits, Thomas arrived in Glasgow in 1810 to enrol her children in local schools.

Malvina Wells, another mixed-race woman of Scottish-African ancestry, was born on the tiny island of Carriacou around 1805. She had grown up enslaved on the plantation of Joanna Maclean’s family, and accompanied her to Edinburgh to work as a ‘Lady’s Maid’ after Joanna married John McCrae, a merchant and planter in Demerara.

Although legally free in Scotland, Wells’s fate remained entwined with the family until her death in 1887. Surprisingly, she was able to leave an inheritance worth £68,000 in today’s money.

Inspirational teachers During his enslavement on a timber plantation in Demerara owned by Scotsman Charles Edmonstone, John Edmonstone learned taxidermy from

Sarah Parker Remond

Freedom fighters the naturalist Charles Waterton. Having Frederick Douglass was one of the most moved to Scotland in 1817 and become influential of the many African-American a free man, John Edmonstone settled in speakers who visited Scotland. Born into Edinburgh and began a career as a ‘bird slavery in Maryland in 1818, his first wife stuffer’, not only preserving and selling Anna Murray Douglass assisted his daring exotic specimens to the university escape to freedom in New York in 1838. museum, but teaching his skills to With his life in danger after the publication students. In 1826, a 17-year-old Charles of his autobiography in 1845, Douglass Darwin, disillusioned with studying medicine and living a few doors along on based himself in Edinburgh from 1846 to 1847, and embarked upon a speaking tour Lothian Street, jumped at the chance. As of Britain. He made many impassioned well as taxidermy, Darwin learned about speeches for the breakaway ‘Free Church’ the flora and fauna of South America, to ‘Send Back the Money’ they had knowledge that was likely invaluable to solicited from enslavers in the American developing his Theory of Evolution.

South. He returned to Scotland in 1860.

Thomas Jenkins was likely Scotland’s The plaque placed at his former dwelling first Black schoolteacher. Jenkins was place in Bruntsfield, Edinburgh in 2018, sent by his father, who was possibly a pays homage to this brilliant orator, wealthy chief and slaver from the ‘coast philosopher, freedom fighter of Guinea’, to be educated in and statesman.

Scotland in 1803 at the tender Sarah Parker Remond age of six. was another AfricanThe young Jenkins was American abolitionist who taken in by the family of spoke in Edinburgh in 1860 Captain James Swanson, and 1861 to large and with whom he had Septimius enthusiastic audiences. travelled. Through living Severus Although born free, she was with the Swanson family, denied American citizenship due attending Teviothead School and to her skin colour, and gained a British working as a farm boy, Jenkins was passport instead. Condemning the able to pursue his passion for education American constitution as an inherently and study Latin and Greek at evening pro-slavery document, during the Civil school. When the presbytery of War Remond railed against the British Jedburgh refused to let him teach in the press for supporting the Confederates, local school, a group of landowners and criticised the virulent racism of converted the local smiddy where intellectuals such as Scotsman Thomas Jenkins taught from 1814 to 1818 and Carlyle. Disillusioned by Britain but took classes at Edinburgh University. inspired by Italian revolutionaries, Jenkins became a missionary in Remond moved to Italy to pursue a Mauritius, where he continued to teach medical career and died there in 1894. until his death in 1859.

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Actor Aldridge used his platform to speak out against slavery and racism

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Ira Aldridge excelled in Shakespearean roles such as Othello and King Lear

Another pioneering medical student Dahomey warriors performed at the Andrew Watson, born in Guyana around was James McCune Smith, who, denied Christmas Market in Edinburgh. At the 1857, was the privileged son of a Scottish entry to medical schools in New York, turn of the century the city was the sugar baron and a Guyanese woman. location for staged African ‘villages’, such was accepted by Glasgow University, Having been a sporting success at his where he graduated at the top of his as the Senegalese village that formed elite King’s College London school, he part of the Scottish National Exhibition in class in 1835. Gaining his full degree used an inheritance from his father to by 1837, and speaking eight languages, 1908, and the Somali village where study at Glasgow University and Smith returned home to practise performers were made to live in mud continue to play football. medicine, becoming a leading huts and perform mock fights for Leaving university early to pursue a abolitionist. Glasgow has recently Scottish audiences in 1909 on the chilly dual career as an engineer and a named a Learning Hub in his honour. seafront of Portobello. footballer, Watson played for Queen’s Intellectuals and speakers The Pan-African Movement Park, among other clubs. He famously Black intellectuals who lived in Celestine Edwards, from Dominica, lived captained the Scottish team to a Edinburgh often had a global influence in Edinburgh in the 1870s, where he was stunning 6-1 victory against the English in the fight for Black liberation. Jeanactive in the Temperance Movement. at the Kennington Oval in 1881, going on Baptiste Philippe of Trinidad – who Moving to London, he became a highly to lead the teams that would win the has a complicated history – qualified influential writer, editor and orator on Scottish Cup in 1882 and 1886. in medicine in 1815 at the age of 16, anti-racist and anti-imperial themes.

Ira Aldridge, the first Black actor to and although Philippe came from a As part of a multiracial movement perform at a major London theatre, was wealthy, slave-owning family, he went fighting for universal human rights, born in New York in 1807. Arriving in on to use Enlightenment principles to Edwards also assisted African-American London at the age of 17, Aldridge played fight for the rights of ‘free coloureds’ journalist Ida B Wells on her speaking the role of Othello and many other at home. tour of Britain. Wells, a suffragette and Shakespearean parts. In the spring of freedom fighter, spoke on the Royal Mile 1850, he performed in Edinburgh at the in Edinburgh in 1893 about Adelphi Theatre in a specially the horrors of lynching. adapted version of Titus Edwards and others Andronicus. He used his paved the way for the Panplatform to speak out against African Movement, of slavery and racism, and the which Edinburgh was a British pro-slavery lobby tried to hub. In 1900 the Afro West destroy his career. However, he Indian Association at received rave reviews, went on Edinburgh University, with to tour the world and was buried members from across with state honours in Poland on Africa and the Caribbean, his death in 1867.

James sent three delegates to the There are many other Celestine McCune first Pan-African Congress examples of Black entertainers Edwards Smith in London. in Scotland. In 1893 female

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CURIOUS CREATURES

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Explore Scottish folklore with these mythical beauties … and beasts!

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FOLKLORE

A kelpie rides the waves

Designed by sculptor Andy Scott, The Kelpies stand 30m tall

Beware the kelpies

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The Kelpies in Falkirk’s Helix Park are the largest equine sculptures in the world and have quickly become a prominent Scottish landmark, following their unveiling in 2014.

Towering 30m high, this monument is a tribute to Scotland’s horse-powered industrial heritage, with a nod to the mythical water creatures said to have the strength and endurance of 10 horses.

Thought to be malevolent shapeshifting water spirits, kelpies were reputed to have haunted rivers and streams, usually appearing as a black horse, but sometimes as a beautiful young maiden ready to lure young men to their watery fate. It was

said that the sound of a kelpie’s tail splashing water resembled the crashing of thunder and could be a kelpie warning of an approaching storm.

Many traditional folk stories about kelpies centre around their relationship with children, who were said to find the water spirit particularly beguiling.

Legend has it that the kelpie would trick curious children into riding on its back, before dragging them into the river to eat them. It is thought these tales were first told as a way to discourage children from straying too close to the river lest they fall in and be carried away by the current.

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HOMAGE TO INDUSTRIAL HERITAGE AND MYTHOLOGY

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Faeries (ga)lore HIGHLAND SPIRITS

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Not quite as friendly and helpful as the jolly characters Disney would have us believe in, faeries play an important part in Scottish folklore. They take various forms, from the Buachailleen with their red pointed caps who reside in green pastures, to the mischievous changelings

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who steal human children in the dead of night.

At one time, it was thought that every loch, well and waterway had an ancient faerie to protect it, and faeries were believed to be responsible for failing crops and other unexplainable misfortunes.

They were rumoured to be incredibly sensitive and did not take kindly to

rudeness. And faeries would always be able to tell if you were lying to them.

The popular television series Outlander has revived interest in faeries, which are often associated with the rugged beauty of the Scottish Highlands, though legends of them can be found throughout the British Isles.

The Fairy Pools on the Isle of Skye attract thousands of visitors each year with many hoping to see a faerie of their own. However, faeries are

private creatures, and if spotted by a human could seek their vengeance by taking away their sight or inflicting illness.

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Not quite Disney

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Faeries and folklore feature heavily in Outlander, which is set in the Highlands

Looking for Nessie

Captured on canvas

FACT OR FICTION?

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Arguably Scotland’s bestloved creature, the legend of the Loch Ness Monster has kept Scots and tourists alike intrigued and entertained for generations.

Stories of a water-dwelling beast in Loch Ness date back to ancient times. In the biography of St Columba, a beast is reported to have attacked a swimmer in the year AD 565 before being commanded by St Columba to return to the water.

Interest in the story was sparked again in 1933, when a couple driving alongside the loch saw a “dragon or

prehistoric monster” cross their path before disappearing into the water. The incident was picked up by a local newspaper, which prompted numerous sightings of the mysterious creature, many of which took place at Urquhart Castle on the banks of the loch.

The creature is usually described as an aquaticdinosaur or a giant eel with humps on its back.

From hazy photographs to unexplained footprints, there have been numerous attempts over the years to prove Nessie’s existence.

A postcard from Loch Ness

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FOLKLORE

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Other beasties

Pondering the Pictish Beast STORIES SET IN STONE

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First found in Greek culture, the manticore has the head of a human, the body of a lion and the tail of a scorpion.

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Griffin

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The myth of the griffin – an eagle-lion hybrid – is thought to have originated in what is now the Middle East.

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Trow

These mischievious troll-like creatures are a mythic tradition in Orkney and Shetland.

Mermaid

Scottish folklore frequently depicts mermaids as unlucky omens, provoking and predicting disaster.

Dragon

St Michael is often shown slaying a dragon, as in the plaque above, one of a series found in Linlithgow.

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The Picts lived in Scotland from the 3rd to 9th centuries AD but much of their history remains a mystery. The Romans named them the Picti, meaning the decorated or painted people. Their carvings have drawn much attention from archaeologists and historians over the years, particularly with their depictions of strange beasts.

One of these is the so-called Pictish Beast. This odd figure appears on more than 50 Pictish stones in Scotland, though archaeologists still debate what this elusive creature could have been.

Some experts have suggested it is a creature entirely from someone’s imagination, and is an amalgamation of various parts from horned and marine creatures. Others have proposed that the beast is derived from earlier dragonesque brooches, a type of high-status jewellery.

Pictish carvings and imagery of the beast can be seen across Scotland, including on the Maiden Stone near Inverurie and the Dunfallandy Stone a mile south of the centre of Pitlochry.

The Maiden Stone and, below, a line drawing of the Pictish Beast symbol

Hunt for the unicorn SYMBOL OF POWER

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Famed as Scotland’s national animal, the symbol of the unicorn, the stoic white horse with a horned forehead, can be traced back through Scottish history for centuries.

In Celtic mythology, the unicorn was a symbol of purity and innocence, as well as one of chivalry and power. Unicorns adorn many of Scotland’s historic buildings, from St Margaret’s Chapel at Edinburgh Castle to the stone carvings at the University of St Andrews.

Fit for a king at Stirling Castle

Between them, the James kings cemented the unicorn’s place in Scottish symbolism, adding it to coins, royal seals and coats of arms.

Before the Union of the Crowns in

1603, Scotland’s coat of arms featured two unicorns.

One of these was then replaced with a lion to represent England.

Stirling Castle is the ideal destination for unicorn hunters, with the mythical creature immortalised in many features and represented in a series of tapestries. This set, which took 13 years to complete, is based on a 16th-century European series called the Hunt of the Unicorn.

Although James V is known to have owned a set of unicorn tapestries himself, these were lost.

Please note access to view the tapestries at Stirling may be restricted.

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History on your doorstep

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Neil Gregory takes a wander around Edinburgh during lockdown – using online resources to find out more about his surroundings

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History on your doorstep 42-43

D I S C O V E RY verybody’s walking around me. And I don’t hear a word they say.

Just a knowing nod and a smile that we’re all out and about, and respectfully keeping a couple of metres apart … With the slower pace of life that lockdown has brought many of us, we’ve started to look around and see parts of our surroundings that in the past we may have missed.

I live in Edinburgh’s Fountainbridge suburb, a fairly central area close to Haymarket station and Hearts football stadium. I’ve researched its workingclass heritage as part of my work, discovering curling ponds on maps where tenements have sat since 1908.

I’ve used the Britain from Above website to appreciate the sheer extent of Fountainbridge’s brewing industry and the vastness of the North British Rubber Company along the Union Canal – there are some amazing Aerofilms aerial images dating from 1929.

E

My recent walks from this starting point have taken me to the leafy suburbs of Morningside, Merchiston and Craiglockhart, with their wide streets and large Victorian mansions aplenty, en route to the woods where I’ve seen the passing of spring and summer.

A typical walk can see me spotting an architectural feature that piques my curiosity: flamboyant Victorian gateposts to a 1960s set of apartments provide a hint of a long-gone villa of grand proportions on Napier Road. All around me seems to be a full-on outbreak of crazy-paving-style masonry, a rustic

ANGUS MCCOMISKEY / ALAMY

Walks of discovery

Redhall House, a former children’s home

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Beneath the surface

Guide to exploring your local area online

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Canmore

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cottage and garden walls. I’ve not seen anything quite like it in Edinburgh. I make a note of the addresses and back at home I trawl the National Record of the Historic Environment, aka Canmore.

Lo and behold, I discover a long-demolished house.

Rockville, I learn, was designed

by Sir James Gowans in 1858 but pulled down in 1966. Thankfully, one of our predecessors, the Scottish National Buildings Record, documented it two years prior to demolition.

I continue and another feature catches my eye – an enormous window to the rear of a house on Colinton Road. I take a photograph and note the number 20 of the house. My Canmore searches prove fruitless on this occasion, but I take a punt that the building could be listed and key the address into the HES Designations Portal. It’s there and, not only do I get the technical detail, I learn why it’s significant and worthy of protection – and I discover that the four circular components of the window that I like depict the four seasons. I’ve not heard of Edward Calvert, the architect mentioned, but a quick peruse of the Dictionary of Scottish Architects tells me he designed several buildings for a local

Pastmap is ideal … for sites that don’t have obvious names

The Edinburgh Basin of the Union Canal

builder, some on the same street. That’s going to yield more investigation on subsequent walks.

Pastmap

Start researching by retracing your steps on a map in Pastmap. It’s great for archaeological sites and you can layer old maps on top of one another to really see how things have changed in your local area. pastmap.org.uk

A view from the train

Towering above the Craiglockhart Hill woods is Craig House, a former squaretowered sanatorium that always catches the eye when taking the train from Haymarket to Carlisle. I started my career in the 1990s cataloguing architects’ papers and on that gig I learned that Craig House was built as a luxurious asylum for wealthy Victorian patients. But if I didn’t know that, where could I find out?

Pastmap is the best resource for looking up this sort of information because the starting point is a map, ideal if you’re searching for archaeological sites that don’t have obvious names or postcodes. From here you can jump to Canmore for more information, including the papers I catalogued back in the day. I reckon Craig House would make a cracking period drama and the pictures taken by Edwardian photography firm Bedford Lemere and

Scran

CREDIT

ART

Fountainbridge from the air

Canmore is a gateway to our architecture, archaeology and industry archives, with building plans, archaeological sketches, historical images, diaries and postcards, as well as millions of survey drawings, photos and text summaries by our experts. canmore.org.uk

A compendium of archives, museum collections and treats gifted by individuals, with an astounding variety of images and film clips. Rich in social history, Scran contains newspaper photos so you can see faces of yesteryear. scran.ac.uk HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 45

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Craig House in its heyday

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Images of patients and staff that I discover in Scran have me imagining the perfect BBC drama

PRODUCTION

the Lothian Health Board images of patients and staff that I discover in Scran have me imagining the perfect BBC Sunday night entertainment.

Dictionary of Scottish Architects

CLIENT

A fab resource to find out who designed the buildings you see on your route and what other masterpieces they created nearby. scottisharchitects.org.uk

National Collection of Aerial Photography / Britain from Above

As well as aerial photography in Canmore, where you’ll find recent investigations from up in the air, there’s a chance to explore historic aerial imagery in these two sites to see how your area has changed. ncap.org.uk; britainfromabove.org.uk For help with any of these resources, contact the staff at archives@hes.scot

Estates through the ages

My walk takes me out of nature and through a vast, yet pretty, estate of 1930s bungalows in Craiglockhart, all constructed when land became cheap for builders. A later search in Canmore yields a plan for the estate by reputable Edinburgh practice Dick Peddie & McKay. Before I get a second fix of foliage within Colinton Dell I head past Edinburgh United Football Club – later clocking a picture of their 1986 team on Scran. I don’t recognise any of the players.

I’m tempted to walk through a rather fancy estate of recently built houses, noting a doocot neatly tucked away but restored by Miller Housing. HES’s Survey and Recording experts make a record of every period of architecture Plans for Craig House

and I wonder what the public, searching our online databases, will make of them in decades to come. I might suggest a survey on Canmore and I’ll take a picture on my phone as I reckon it would make a worthy addition to MyCanmore.

Then something appears that I really wasn’t expecting. A grand classical house, sadly boarded up but looking ripe for a Grand Designs makeover. I’m standing on Redhall House Drive so I later search for ‘Redhall’ on our Buildings at Risk Register, rather than by postcode.

I learn that Redhall House, by architect James Robertson with a later extension, was previously a children’s home and I read of numerous attempts to restore it over the years. It’s a different case to Craig House that I saw earlier on, now proudly boasting a ‘Restoration in Progress’ badge on the Register.

Finally, I’m deep into Colinton Dell where I’m cheered on by a welcoming information panel erected by the Council – I’m reminded of the great work that they, local societies and community groups do, some of which is supported by grants from bodies such as HES and through the National Heritage Lottery Fund. I think I’ll see if there are any pre-1945 aerial photographs showing the old railway line to Balerno that cuts through the Dell, or engravings made by antiquarians once my woodland wanderings are done.

LOTHIAN HEALTH SERVICES ARCHIVE, HES (DICK, PEDDY, AND MACKAY COLLECTION).

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Here’s where to go to see if a building is listed or if you’ve got any scheduled ancient monuments in your area.

There’s lots of description and explanations of why these sites are significant. portal.historicenvironment. scot

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QUIZ THE BIG HISTORIC SCOTLAND

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Are you a trivia champion?

Test your mettle with our quiz

Our quiz masters Andrew Burnet

Nicki Scott

Kit Reid

Bob Tevendale

Samuel Wilson

Steve Farrar

Interpretation manager

Senior cultural resources advisor

Senior interpretation manager

Natural heritage advisor

Digital content officer

Interpretation manager

48 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

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That’s history

Test your knowledge of Scotland’s best known landmarks and figures. Answers on page 52

How long was Mary Queen of Scots held prisoner at Lochleven Castle?

A 2 years B 8 months C 14 months D 11 months Bonus point: How did her imprisonment come to an end?

2

Who was the last monarch to be born in Scotland?

A Charles I B James VI C Mary Queen of Scots D James V Bonus point: In which town was he or she born?

3

Which name links a Glaswegian saint, a Selkirk-born explorer, a national park in Australia and a river in New Zealand?

A Columba B Clutha C Canunda D Mungo

4

Which Scottish king was buried in Dunfermline but left his heart in Melrose?

A MacBeth B Robert the Bruce C James VI D Duncan I

5

Who were the parents of Mary Queen of Scots?

A James V and Marie de Guise B James VI and Anne of Denmark C James IV and Margaret Tudor D James III and Margaret of Denmark

6

1

Where did King Robert III die in 1406 after hearing of the death of his son?

A Edinburgh Castle B Stirling Castle C Rothesay Castle D Blackness Castle

7

Which sport was supposedly a popular hobby of James V and Mary Queen of Scots?

A Croquet B Tennis C Badminton D Cycling

8

James I was assassinated in which Scottish city in 1437?

A Edinburgh B Glasgow C Stirling D Perth

2

9

After seizing the throne in 1306, Robert the Bruce sent his wife Elizabeth and daughter Marjorie to the ‘noblest of northern castles’. Where was this?

A Urquhart Castle B Balvenie Castle C Kildrummy Castle D Huntly Castle

10

6

9 SHUTTERSTOCK, WORLD HISTORY ARCHIVE / ALAMY

Which iconic landmark became Scotland’s sixth UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015?

A The Forth Bridge B St Kilda C Ring of Brodgar D Maeshowe

1

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Quiz 48-49

QUIZ

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Forces of nature Is your animal and plant knowledge second to none?

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Spynie Palace. But do these mammals hibernate in the winter?

A Yes B No C Depends how cold it is D Yes, but they take a one week break from it for Christmas and New Year because squirrels love the festivity and family time

Which one of our castles’ grounds is frequented by the rare British amphibian, the natterjack toad?

A The Castle of Old Wick B Hermitage Castle C Caerlaverock Castle D Lochmaben Castle Bonus points: What distinctive marking does the natterjack bear?

4

2

Red squirrels frequent many of our sites, including Tullibardine Chapel, Elcho Castle and

3

Which of these is not a plant you’re likely to find at Bonawe Historic Iron Furnace?

A Dog’s mercury B Goldenrod C Ragged robin D Whispering otter Badgers call many of our sites, including Craignethan Castle, home.

But what do they eat?

A Moles B Plants C Slugs D All of the above

5

Do you speak emoji?

Can you decode these emojis to identify five Historic Scotland properties?

Example:

1

2 3

5

= her + mitt + age + castle = Hermitage Castle

1.

..................................................................

2. 1

..................................................................

3.

..................................................................

4.

..................................................................

5.

..................................................................

50 50 HISTORIC HISTORIC SCOTLAND SCOTLAND

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All British bats feed on insects. And even though the pipistrelle bat is the smallest in the UK, it gorges on a mighty diet of midges. How many can it munch through in a night?

A 500-1000 B 1000-1500 C 1500-2000 D 2000–3000

1

4

3

9

6

That’s entertainment Questions from film, TV and literature Who was the leading actress in the 2018 film Mary Queen of Scots?

A Saoirse Ronan B Margot Robbie C Rachel McAdams D Amanda Seyfried

1

What is the name of the monument which inspired Disney’s animated feature Brave?

A Ring of Brodgar B Machrie Moor Standing Stones C Calanais Standing Stones D Standing Stones of Stenness

AA FILM ARCHIVE / ALAMY, GL ARCHIVE / ALAMY

2

Which property stars alongside Scarlett Johansson in the 2014 film Under the Skin, which features an alien who preys on men in Scotland?

3

A Tantallon Castle B Urquhart Castle C Aberdour Castle D Spynie Palace What location was Doune Castle used to depict in the pilot episode of Game of Thrones?

A Iron Island B King’s Landing C North of Westeros D Winterfell

4

Which of our properties featured in the TV crime series Shetland?

A Fort Charlotte B Blackness Castle C Bothwell Castle D Dallas Dhu Distillery

5

Dubbed the grandest medieval building in the Western Isles, this site

6

became one of the latest stars of the screen featuring in BBC drama Call the Midwife over Christmas 2019. Name the property.

A Dun Carloway B St Clement’s Church C Kisimul Castle D The Blackhouse, Arnol Which of our properties doubled up as a monastery in series 1, episode 16 of Outlander?

A Aberdour Castle and Gardens B Melrose Abbey C Edrom Church D Blackfriars Chapel

7

Edinburgh Castle and the surrounding city feature prominently in the novel The Prime of

8

Miss Jean Brodie.

Name the author.

A Josephine Tey B Agatha Christie C Val McDermid D Muriel Spark Can you name the property that Sir Walter Scott lived near as a child?

A Hermitage Castle B Smailholm Tower C Duff House D Cadzow Castle

9

Which Iron Age site is used as a hiding place by a character in Ian Rankin’s novel Black and Blue?

A Midhowe Broch B Broch of Gurness C Jarlshof D Mousa Broch

10

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Quiz 50-51

QUIZ

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Quiz Answers That’s history 1. A – The Forth Bridge.

2. D – 11 months, which ended with her daring escape by boat.

3. A – Charles I was born in Dunfermline in 1600.

4. D – Mungo.

5. B – Robert the Bruce.

6. A – James V and Marie de Guise.

7. C – Rothesay Castle.

8. B – Tennis.

Forces of nature 1. D – A single pipistrelle can feast on up to 3000 midges a night.

2. C – Caerlaverock Castle.

3. B – Red squirrels don’t hibernate in winter.

9. D – Perth. The story goes that James was trapped in a sewer which had been blocked to prevent the loss of tennis balls. With no escape, he was set upon and murdered. This was an attempt by his uncle Walter Stewart to take the throne.

10. C – They were sent to Kildrummy Castle for safety but it was soon besieged.

4. D – We made up whispering otter.

Sorry, plant fans!

5. D – Badgers are omnivorous, meaning they’ll eat just about anything.

So...

How did you do?

Write your final score here:

........ /33 Do you speak emoji?

1. Sweetheart Abbey.

2. Wanlockhead Beam Engine.

3. Caerlaverock Castle.

4. Smailholm Tower.

5. Deer Abbey.

That’s entertainment 1. A – Saoirse Ronan.

2. C – Calanais Standing Stones.

3. A – Tantallon Castle.

4. D – Winterfell.

5. A – Fort Charlotte.

6. B – St Clement’s Church.

7. A – Aberdour Castle and Gardens.

8. D – Muriel Spark.

9. B – Smailholm Tower.

10. D – Mousa Broch.

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Thanks membership

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Our history continues to be preserved and protected because of you

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You help us manage over 300 visitor attractions that represent around 5,000 years of Scotland’s past 1

ART PRODUCTION

You help us to keep conservation and traditional skills alive 2

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You enable us to provide rich learning resources for all age groups 3

You help us to play our part in mitigating global climate change 4

You enable us to look after incredible archive material and collections

Three month bonus when you renew Thanks to the incredible support of our members, our history continues to be preserved and protected.

As a thank you for your support during this time, we will automatically apply an extra three months free when you renew your membership with us.

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We hope that this will help to show you how important you are to us and to help make up for the time that was lost when all of our sites were closed.

Choose where to visit next at historicreopening.scot

You support our research so we can better understand and care for Scotland’s historic environment 6

HES, THE SCOTSMAN PUBLICATIONS LTD

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Parcels of joy Send one of our bundles of treats to a loved one or indulge in some self-care time

2

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Whether you want to get lost in a travel book, experiment with a new cookbook or simply relax in the garden, browse our online shop for a variety of gifts and home accessories.

ART

1 2 3 4

Plant a Tree Kit £20 Lagavulin Whisky Bundle £58 Monty Python Bundle £45 Travel & Adventure Book Bundle £40 1

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Items in the Monty Python, Lagavulin Whisky and Edinburgh Castle Tea bundles are also available to buy separately

4

3

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Retail

R E TA I L

1

3

2

THE ART OF COORIE RIGHT This lifestyle book explores interiors, traditions and the great outdoors. £14.99

EDINBURGH CASTLE TEA BUNDLE LEFT Sit back and unwind with our Edinburgh Castle Tea Bundle. Enjoy your favourite brew in our exclusively designed Edinburgh Castle Tartan china mug and take a bite of Walkers shortbread. £25

SCOTTISH PLANT LORE: AN ILLUSTRATED FLORA ABOVE £20

Browse our book selection and home and garden accessories

4

5

WOODEN GARDEN TOOLBOX ABOVE £48 WOODEN SIGN BELOW £20

A recipe for curried parsnip soup from Seasonal Soups by Fraser Reid SERVES 4

OLIVE OIL OR BUTTER – 1 tablespoon ONION – 1 peeled and diced GARLIC – 2 cloves, peeled and finely chopped MILD CURRY POWDER – 1 teaspoon CORIANDER SEEDS – 1 teaspoon GROUND GINGER – half a teaspoon PARSNIPS – 750g, peeled and roughly chopped STOCK CUBES – 2 SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER – to taste

Heat the oil or butter in a pan, then add the onion and garlic and fry everything on a medium to low heat for 5-10 minutes.

Meanwhile, put the spices into a dry frying pan over a medium heat and toast them until they start to release their fragrance (2-3 minutes).

Add the toasted spices and the chopped parsnips to the

softened onions and give everything a mix.

Pour in 1.2 litres of boiling water, crumble in the stock cubes and bring it all to the boil.

Reduce the heat and simmer for 20-25 minutes.

Blend the soup until smooth and season with salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper.

SPEND Members receive a 20% discount by using & SAVE the code MEMBER0919 at the checkout

Seasonal Soups, £8.99

SHOP Visit the online shop at historicenvironment.scot/shop HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 55

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Time trip

ARCHIVE VERSION

A woman adds another piece of cloth to a roadside fence around the ‘clootie’ well of St Boniface, between Tore and Munlochy, Ross-shire, in around 1960

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TIME TRIP

The clootie well at Munlochy in 1996

WHAT IS IT? Part of an ancient Celtic ritual, the clootie well was once common throughout the Highlands and can still be found in a few locations. The best known of these is near Munlochy, north of Inverness.

Clootie wells usually hold a connection to a saint. Small strips of cloth – or clooties – are tied to ‘holy’ trees near the well on behalf of a sick person, in the belief that as the cloth deteriorates, so will that person’s illness. Anyone who

interferes with the clooties left by other people will suffer from their ailments.

St Mary’s Well at Culloden is another popular clootie well.

See more images like this at scran.ac.uk

MUNLOCHY

NATIONAL MUSEUMS SCOTLAND, SCHOOL OF SCOTTISH STUDIES

The healing power of the clootie well

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EdinburughSM

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Northumbria Travel

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