The Yak #65

Encounter the magic of Indonesian islands in style

Engage in an iconic adventure Inspired by the pleasure craft of the 1960s, the all-teak Magia II is a work of love offering classic ocean cruising with meticulous attention to detail. The master cabin at the aft of the boat provides splendid panoramic views and includes a Jacuzzi on the balcony, while a large upper deck is the perfect area for friends or family. Throughout the design emphasizes comfort and space for the ultimate cruising experience.

Length 25m. Beam 6m. 4 cabins (I large master with balcony / 1 VIP / 2 standard double. Jacuzzi in the master cabin. Large top deck with bimini.

For those wishing to explore; do please contact us for questions and reservations: +62 813 3899 1566 - charter.magia2@gmail.com Themagicsailing.com

Magia_Indonesia

: bambooblondeID

: @bambooblondeindo

Jl. Kayu Aya | Jl. Raya Seminyak | Seminyak Village Mall | Jl. Pantai Berawa | Jl. Batu Bolong | Jl. Batu Belig Jl. Raya Legian No. 66 | Jl. Raya Legian No. 154 | Beachwalk Mall, Kuta | Discovery Mall, Kuta Bali Collection Mall, Nusa Dua | Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud | Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur Jl. Petitenget No. 2000x | Jl. Labuan Sait, No. 83x, Padang - Padang

www.bambooblonde.com

MICAH DAVIS

Photo HARRY MARK

www.theanvayabali.com

INSPIRED BALINESE ELEGANCE ON KUTA BEACH

Jl. Kartika Plaza, Tuban, Kuta Bali 80361 - Indonesia Ph (62-361) 2090 477 Email: info@theanvayabali.com

www.glampingsandat.com @glampingsandat

www.theyakmag.com

Volume sixty Five dec/jan/feb 2019-2020

The Yak Magazine Sophie Digby, Nigel Simmonds, Agustina Ardie, Michelle Lamb Creative Director Stuart Sullivan Sales & Marketing Shanty Wijaya, Amik Suhartin Production Manager Lia Maharani Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri, Ida Bagus Adi Accounting Julia Rulianti, Istiana Distribution Made Marjana, Putu Widi Susanto, Gede Swastika, Made Rakayasa, Kadek Eri Publisher PT. L.I.P Licence AHU/47558/AH/01/01/2011

on the Cover: Greedo long top by rashawl. Photography: Sharon Angelia. Stylist: Adimas Reynard. Model: Ksenia

Advertising Enquiries Tel: (+62 361) 766 539, 0851 0043 1804, 0851 0043 1805, 0851 0043 1796 info@theyakmag.com sales@theyakmag.com Snail Mail & Walk Ins The Yak Magazine, Kompleks Perkantoran Simpang Siur Square, Jl. Setia Budi, Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia

(Amor Models). Make up: Erryk Wahyu. www.rashawl.co.id

OK you know the drill. No part of this publication may be copied or reproduced electronically or otherwise without prior permission from the Publisher.

Opinions expressed are those of the authors not the Publisher. The Publisher reserves the right to refuse advertising that does not comply with the magazine's design criteria. The Yak will not be held responsible for copyright infringements on images supplied directly by advertisers and/or contributors.

Check us out online, we’re awesome (if we do say so ourselves). Peace.

Magazine printed by Gramedia Outdoor assets by Supaprint © PT Luxury In Print www.theyakmag.com

The Yak Magazine

@theyakmagazine

The Yak’s monthly e-newsletter is sent to 25,000 mailboxes every month.

Archives, additional content and more at www.theyakmag.com

The Yak App – Bali's best listings guide – is available from the App Store and Google Play.

F L A G S H I P S T O R E N OW O P E N I N S E M I N YA K - B A L I

J L . R AYA K E R O B O K A N N O 1 1 . +62 8123 60 4294

CO U N T E R S AT I N T E R N AT I O N A L D E PA R T U R E L O U N G E

contents 18

Nunchi. It's a Korean thing.

22

Diary Days

24

Sharing Is Caring

26

News From Your World

38

Stuff Of Life

44

Bullet and Cass

46

Farah Quinn

48

Yakety yak

dates with destiny

one world

new in the hood

out of the box

sound arounds

people

John Spence

52

Kezia Alexandra

54

Adimas Reynard

58

Bali After Hours

66

Aphrodite

74

Rat Pack

78

Earthlings

90

people

Mishka Piaf

52 14

50

people

people

culture vulture

culture vulture

yak fashion

passions

yak fashion

yak fashion

Prints Of Belair

46

98

taken not stirred

Cocktail Classics

102

ApĂŠritif

104

CafĂŠ del Mar Bali

106

Two Islands Reserve

108

Queen's Tandoor

110

La Favela

112

Flat Stanley

114

76 134

taken not stirred

taken not stirred

Brands

oral pleasures

oral pleasures

oral pleasures

oral pleasures

In The Raw

144

contents Omnibus, page 86: sport universal

116 118

Big Six

Cater Me

oral pleasures

Koral Restaurant

122

Desa Potato Head

124

Alila Villas Uluwatu

venting in a villa

venting in a villa

126

Saratoga

128

Bali Villas HVR

venting in a villa

brands

102 16

130 132

venting in a villa

The Oberoi Beach Resort, Bali

venting in a villa

Radisson Blu Uluwatu

134

The Seraya

136

Mason Adventures

over the edge

brands

140

Liga.Tennis Centre & Academy

144

Agung Prabowo

sporting change

146

Age of HipHop

148

Art + Fashion

150

Client Clobber

160 162

yak awards

yak events

fashion freestyle

ad directory

What’s What

astro yak

History Repeating

artsake

54

146

44

I gather the power of nunchi can change your life. I also

yakbak

gather it is the secret to happiness and success. It is what makes Korea tick. According to weforum.org and Euny Hong, I

divine combination.

Dear Yak, I am compelled to send you an email. I had always thought of the magazine as something of a thing of beauty but yesterday I had a couple of hours to actually read it more thoroughly, and again this morning for another hour. I still haven’t finished it. The Yak is without doubt the best magazine I think I have ever seen. And in my business I do come across many magazines. Even the feel of the pages is amazing.

There is texture – quite incredible. When you look at the pages you want to run your hands over them.

And then you look at the content – the journalism is so real you can feel the story, the love of journalism is very evident! The photography is also outstanding.

Somehow you can see the love that has gone into every page. Congratulations.

Carol Carter Queensland Sotheby's International Realty

Meet the Rat Pack of Bali. ‘The Gents’ of the night really are

Honest to God we did not pay her.

quote: “Having great nunchi means continuously recalibrating your assumptions based on any new word, circumstance, gesture or facial expression, so that you are always present and aware.” And, at the risk of blowing our own trumpet, it is what we at The Yak live for – even though we had never heard of this word until recently!

Our 65th issue – we really hope someone is getting us a blue sapphire in recognition – will hit the streets with the year turning 2020. Quite a milestone. So let’s start this issue with Bali’s newer milestones in our New In The Hood section – the new, the who and the what. Moving through our Out of The Box, where you can find some rather fabulous and pricey Xmas gifts, we come to People, all sorts of people and all with loads of nunchi. We have fallen in love with the unpredictability of Art and nuance, and a guy call Agugn – no, that is not a typo. From art to photography to fashion – a

masters of reading the moods of the moment … mood shifters, always keeping it positive and light even after midnight. Back to our greatest love, and something that always rings in incoming trends – Fashion –just before Gava Fox takes onto his Omnibus for a session of sport. And so we flow. More Fashion, throw in some cocktails and prep up

Dear Yak, I’m on vacation in Seminyak and I would like to take a copy of your magazine back to my country (France).

Where can i find it?

Capucine Colin

Truth be told monsieur most people steal a venue copy from one or other of our gorgeous restaurant, hotel or club clients – hence our amazing overseas reputation! But in this case we are sending you a mag direct to your hotel suite.

Vive la France!

Dear Yak, I must say I am loving The Yak – it’s such a lifeline before the ghastly grey days start here.

Veronica Chenford, UK Brrrrrr. Sending sunshine by soon-to-beprivatised Royal Mail.

Dear Yak, I just wanted to shoot you a quick note to say – stunning cover! Didn't want to let that pass by.

Stacy Townsend Enjoy Collective Well thank you Stacy. They say you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover but in this case you certainly can!

some food and we are three-quarters of the way.

In response to the desperate need to be planetary aware and woke’Desa Potato Head and Alila Uluwatu show the hospitality industry what they are up to, now and beyond, and have been awarded medals in recognition. Travels, elephants, tennis, music, Yak Awards and of course, a look at what is incoming to our astrological houses …there really is not much we have not touched upon in this our blue sapphire-worthy edition.

So Yakkers do enjoy, and may you be gifted with 2020 vision and a decent amount of nunchi.

As ever, may The Yak be with you.

18

In The Lap Of: Jennifer Lawrence Love-of-our-life Jennifer Lawrence flew into town with some bloke she married (sorry Cooke Maroney) breaking our hearts and breezing off to Nihi Sumba where she enjoyed the fabulous beach and horse riding, not to mention privacy and petting. Of course The Yak has long been in-room at the exclusive and world-renowned resort where she was able to reach from her bed to tenderly shift through the silken pages of our particular organ and . . . [Stop it – you're fired. Ed]

calendar

fridge magnet fodder for the peripatetic.

WONDERFRUIT Thailand’s preeminent conscious music festival is back for another round of killer beats, innovative artworks, organic eats, and engaging workshops. Taking place at The Fields at Siam Country Club in Pattaya from December 12 to December 16, this eco-friendly extravaganza brings together forward-thinking people from around the globe to get their groove on and celebrate creative solutions to sustainable living. Expect over 65 musicians including Alfa Mist, Trojan Sound System, and Garden City Movement, our very own Rainforest Pavilion plus immersive experiences for all ages, gourmet bites, wellness booths, and inspiring talks with progressive thought leaders. www.wonderfruit.co

EPIZODE What better way to usher in 2020 than at a mesmerising multi-day beach party on a beautiful tropical island? Epizode is set on the white sands of Sunset Sanato Beach on Phu Quoc Island Vietnam and it runs for a whopping 11 days. Last year the event attracted over 10,000 people who danced their hearts out to over 140 international and regional DJs on four different stages. This year the party runs from December 22 to January 7 and it’s set to be even more epic than the last with fist-pumping sets by artists like Loco Dice, DOTT, Lilly Palmer, and William Djoko. Adding to the fun are amazing light and laser installations, fabulous food courts, and fun recreation zones. www.epizode.com

DJAKARTA WAREHOUSE PROJECT Jakarta is renowned for its off-the-hook nightlife, and the biggest party of the year by far is the Djakarta Warehouse Project. Brought to us by Ismaya Live, this mad EDM music festival will run from December 13 to December 15 with top DJs from around the world and thousands of revellers from around the region. The all-star line-up includes heavy hitters like Skrillex, Martin Garrix, Calvin Harris and Jonas Blue. Guests can also hit up the special stage by Elrow, shop for one-of-a-kind fashion, and indulge in culinary offerings at Eats & Beats, a curated collection of the Ismaya Group’s favourite restaurant concepts. www.djakartawarehouse.com

PASOLA SPEAR FESTIVAL See a different side of Indonesia and immerse yourself in a unique culture at The Pasola Spear Festival in West and Southwest Sumba. This festival runs for four weeks in February and March and pays homage to ancestral spirits with a series of battles on horseback. On the day of the battle, the village men dress in colourful costumes and divide into two groups. After the local priest says prayers and throws his spear into the air, the teams charge at each other, throwing spears until blood is spilled. The villagers believe the blood is a symbol of prosperity and the battle itself a way to balance physical, mental, and spiritual needs.

IF YOU’RE IN THE USA...

December 26 to January 1 — Kwanzaa: This festive season will see the 53rd annual Kwanzaa, a celebration of African culture and the African-American experience. The holiday was created by Dr. Maulana Karenga in 1966 as a way to encourage AfricanAmerican people to reconnect with their African heritage. The name means ‘first fruits’ and it follows seven principles, one for each day of the festival. These include unity, self-determination, collective work and responsibility, cooperative economics, purpose, creativity, and faith. On the last day of Kwanzaa, the holiday culminates with a huge feast and gift giving.

January 17 to February 2 — Taebaek Mountain Snow Festival: Celebrate all things winter at this family-friendly festival in the spectacularly scenic Mount Taebaek Provincial Park. The main draws are the massive snow sculptures created by artists from Korea and abroad. Visitors can also test their stamina and skills at the snow climbing contest, join group hikes through the frosty wilderness, have a hot drink in an igloo cafe, and snap selfies in front of the dramatic ice fountain. The party keeps going well into the evening with concerts, karaoke, and light shows.

March 1 to March 8 — Star Trek: The Cruise™ IV (Miami to the Caribbean): Trekkies won’t want to miss this unconventional voyage on the Explorer of The Seas that celebrates the 25th anniversary of Star Trek: Voyager. For seven days, the ship will be transformed into the ultimate Star Trek amusement park at sea with a star-studded crew and immersive experiences that include nightly shows, parties, pub crawls, parades and more. Join William Shatner, Robert Picardo, Kate Mulgrew, and more of your favourite stars as you set sail in Miami to cruise the Caribbean and boldly go where no one has gone before.

IF YOU’RE IN KOREA… January 4 to January 26 — Hwacheon Sancheoneo Ice Festival (Hwacheon, Gangwon province): The Hwacheon Ice Festival sees about one million visitors every year who flock to the winter wonderland to take part in cold-weather activities like figure skating, sledding, and frolicking in the snow park. However, the main draw is ice fishing along the Hwacheoncheon Stream for sancheoneo (mountain trout). You can opt to fish from holes in the river, lure fish in the flowing waters, or catch the fish barehanded from an icy pool. Take your catch to one of the stalls nearby to eat it raw or fried.

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IF YOU’RE IN INDIA… February 18 to February 27 — Taj Mahotsav (Agra): If you can only make it to one festival in India this year, Taj Mahotsav should be it. This sublime celebration of culture, arts, music, and food takes place in Shilpgram close to the iconic Taj Mahal, and it evokes the essence of the Mughal era by inviting artisans from around the country to show off their talents. The festival starts with a grand procession of camels and elephants, followed by folk music and dance performances, a fabulous food festival, and displays of silk, woodcarvings, carpets, jewellery and more from every corner of India.

February 22 to February 25 — Carnival in Goa: The Roman Catholic tradition of Carnival in Goa dates back to Portuguese colonial times, but it began to decline towards the end of Portuguese rule. It was only in the 1960s that it was resurrected, and since then, it’s become one of the biggest celebrations in Goa, taking place in cities and towns across the Indian state and attracting thousands of people. The liveliest celebrations take place in the capital of Panjim where the streets come to life with colourful parades featuring massive floats, dance troupes, balloons, and a whole lot of eating, drinking and merry making.

W BALI - SEMINYAK PRESENTS

MIA

MIXOLOGIST IN ACTION

Amplify your cocktail.

Pick your flavor and let our mixologists craft it for you.

WOOBAR FRIDAYS 5PM–8PM

For reservations +62 361 3000 106 bf.wbali@whotels.com ©2016 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. W and its logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.

giving back

diva charity lunches and its inimitable founder christina iskandAr set the benchmark for bali charities. now they're up in oz too.

Who says that divas are all about themselves? For 10 years now, Bali babes have been gathering at the famed Diva Charity Lunches to eat, drink, socialise, network, and raise money for organisations that help Balinese people in need.

You’ve probably heard of these luxe lunches that take place at iconic venues and feature raffles and auctions where you can score fab prizes from some of the islands best resorts, restaurants, and retail shops. What you may not know is that the lunches were single-handedly founded by one determined diva.

Christina Iskandar’s love affair with Bali began when she first arrived on the island in 1983. Like many visitors from Australia and further afield, she found that one short trip soon turned into numerous visits, and eventually she decided to settle here. The deal was sealed when she married her Jakarta love, with whom she now has three sons and two grandchildren.

Always the social butterfly, Christina developed countless connections over the years and immersed herself fully in her adopted home. Contributing to the community was par for the course for this former Sydney-sider, but one experience urged her to get more involved.

She says, “I started raising awareness 10 years ago. The seeds were always planted in my soul, but the need to make a difference became very apparent when I first visited YPAC Institute for Handicapped Children in Jimbaran.”

YPAC is a residential school for children with physical and mental disabilities.

Founded in 1975, the school supports approximately 55 children aged six to 22 years old with education and social assistance. The school also helps to integrate the students into the wider community by finding suitable work placement after the students finish their studies.

Christina decided that the best way to help YPAC was by doing something she loved and was good at – organising social events. The first Diva Lunch took place at Biku with just eight women who came together to enjoy great food, drinks, and conversation, all while raising money for the children at YPAC. The first lunch was such a success that Christina immediately began organising more, and it wasn’t long before the gatherings grew into glamorous sold-out galas at venues like Ku De Ta, Jemme and Merah Putih with sponsors like Moët & Chandon and Cocoon Medical Spa. Christina says, “I feel that the lunches brought together a community of like-

24

minded women who had something to really look forward to: meeting new friends, connecting, networking and being able to make a difference while doing so. So many solid friendships were made at these lunches.

“To date we’ve helped over 50 organisations. Some of our biggest successes include being able to raise IDR90 million for the Suryani Institute for Mental Health. We also started doing Diva Lunches in Australia, and our latest lunch in Sydney raised A$60,000 for the Bali Children Foundation.”

Just recently, Christina registered the Diva foundation as an official incorporated association in Australia, which means that Diva Charity Inc. will have an even broader scope to continue throwing fab events to help Balinese organisations and people in need.

Christina says, “The lunches started in Australia three years ago and the response has been phenomenal, especially considering some of the ladies haven't even been to Bali. We are thrilled to be able to tell them from our experience what an amazing little island it is.

“Becoming a registered charity is also a dream come true. It feels like our 10 years of hard work and dedication has paid off, and we now have a voice to decide who we can help. It also means having an incredible group of likeminded board members.”

The Diva lunches and parties are still a regular occurrence in Bali, the most recent being the Diva 10th Anniversary Sunset Soiree at W Bali Seminyak in June, which raised money for the John Fawcett Foundation. Keep an eye on the Diva Charity Lunches Facebook page for info on upcoming events in Bali.

And if you happen to be in Sydney this autumn, the Divas & Dudes Charity Lunch will take place on November 30th at Dockside Darling Harbour and feature a three-course lunch, free-flow beverages, entertainment, special celebrity guests, best-dressed prizes and more all in support of YPAC Bali.

Even with a full social calendar, a divas’ work is never done. Christina says, “Planning forward we will be looking at a much-needed refurbishment of the run-down living quarters for the YPAC children and offering trained physiotherapists and paid education. God willing commencement will happen in April 2020, something the DIVAS are so looking forward to making a reality.” www.facebook.com/divacharityfoundation

MAGIA II Inspired by pleasure craft of the 1960s, the all-teak Magia II is a work of love offering classic ocean cruising with meticulous attention to detail. The master cabin at the aft of the boat provides splendid panoramic views and includes a Jacuzzi on the balcony, while a large upper deck is the perfect area for friends or family. Throughout the design emphasizes comfort and space for the ultimate cruising experience. This 25 metre pleasure craft boasts four cabins in total – in addition to the master there is a VIP option and two standard doubles. To experience or explore, give them a tinkle or drop them a message.

Tel: +62 813 3899 1566 charter.magia2@gmail.com Themagicsailing.com

SENSATIONAL SKINCARE Bali’s favourite all-natural skincare brand always has something exciting in the works, and this time it’s a brand new collection of exquisite body care products. The collection includes sea salt scrubs, massage oils, and body butters in four alluring aromas. Indulge in the Lemongrass and Mandarin line for an uplifting citrus boost or Tropical Wildflower for an intoxicating floral scent. The Relaxation line features soothing notes of mandarin, geranium, lavender and chamomile, and Seaside Citrus is reminiscent of a fresh summer breeze across the open ocean with grapefruit peel, French lavender, and Spanish rosemary essential oil. www.sensatia.com

IN THE RAW JUICE LAB Batu Bolong just has a new spot to get your nutrient fix at The Juice Lab, a brand new creation by Mark Baker and the In the Raw team. Here you can grab pure cold pressed juices, kefirs, and kombuchas made using fresh, organic fruit sourced in Bali and the world’s best juice presses and state-of-the-art equipment. They also serve up healthy snacks like bliss balls and power bars, non-dairy lattes, rainforest concoctions, and wellness shots. Thinking about doing a juice cleanse? Ask the Juice Lab crew how to get started and they can put you on the path to purification.

Tel: +62 813 3866 4931

www.facebook.com/intherawbali

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BRILLIANT BAO AT STREET BOI Inspired by the vibrant street food culture of Asia, plus solid rock anthems, Kung Fu movies, and American diner culture, Street Boi is a killer new cocktail and chow spot on Jalan Petitenget.

The stars of the menu are pillowy steamed bao packed with tasty fillers. Be sure to try the signature Chuck’s Bao with 120 grams of beef topped with smoked cheddar, grilled onions, lettuce, tomato, pickles, mustard, roasted garlic mayo and Street Boi’s own signature sauce. Pair your bao with some slow-cooked sticky ribs, fresh Asian-style salads, a house-made soda, or cocktails like the Seminyak Mule with spiced rum, ginger kombucha, and herbs.

Tel: +62 812 3676 8664 www.streetboibali.com

Sanctuary for the Senses

Acquaint yourself with the fascinating culture, rich heritage and traditions of spiritual Bali at one of The 58 Most Luxurious Hotel in The World

by Forbes Travel Guide. Poised majestically on a cliff top near the Uluwatu temple, the 71 exclusive all-pool villa resort is an exemplary illustration of the distinctive Banyan Tree experience and famed Balinese hospitality.

From its lofty perch on Bali’s southernmost cliff, Ju-Ma-Na presents fine dining with a dramatic view. Delicious seafood artfully prepared by talented chefs will take your taste buds on a culinary journey. Indulge in signature dishes steeped in Indonesia’s rich culinary traditions and international favorites at Bambu and variety of Nouvelle Balinese cuisine at Tamarind Restaurant.

ROOFTOP DINING AT BUKIT PANDAWA GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB Inspired by the traditional Balinese kul-kul tower that backdrops the 13th hole at Bukit Pandawa Golf & Country Club, The Kul-Kul restaurant is the signature component of a 3,000-square-metre clubhouse conceived by acclaimed architects Antony Liu and Ferry Ridwan from Studio TonTon in Jakarta. Set on the rooftop of the gorgeous twin-block clubhouse decked out in local stone and wood, native grasses, and water features, The KulKul offers al fresco dining areas and chic lounges overlooking the Indian Ocean and the golf course. Soak up the views while sipping on cold drinks and sampling gourmet Indonesian and Western fare.

Tel: +62 811 3811 2828 www.bukitpandawagolf.com

BAMBOO SEAFOOD BBQ AT KARMA BEACH BALI What better way to spend a Saturday night than feasting on locally caught seafood cooked over an open fire just steps from the ocean? The Bamboo Seafood Bbq at Karma Beach Bali is a delight for the senses with tables right on the beach where you can dip your toes in the sand enjoy sweeping views of the Indian Ocean, and a smorgasbord of succulent seafood dishes. The seafood is personally selected by executive chef Joseph Antonishek each morning and cooked on his custom-built bamboo bbq. Specialities include the coconut clams, octopus with a Borneo chili glaze, and tuna tataki with uni aioli. The bbq takes place every Saturday from 6pm to 10pm.

Tel: +62 361 848 2205 www.karmagroup.com

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BOHEMIAN BEACHSIDE VIBES Set on the golden sands of Petitenget Beach, Mano Beach House is the spot to be in Seminyak if you’re looking to experience a slower pace of life next to the sea. The recently revamped space features soft earth tones and neutral colours, an eclectic collection of Bohemian and African-inspired art, and endless views of the deep blue ocean, sky, and South Bali’s stunning sunsets. The all-day dining menu features fresh takes on beach club classics made with locally produced ingredients for flavours that pop. Must-tries include the Panang curry and the pan-seared barramundi with green peas, cauliflower purée, and crustacean oil.

Tel: +62 361 473 0874 www.manobali.com

O LALA BISTRONOMY Tuck into fine French and Mediterranean fare with Asian touches at O LaLa Bistronomy in Kerobokan. Styled like a Parisian bistro, this chic eatery is bright, breezy, and always has a buzzy vibe going on. Start with a glass of vino or a cocktail, then order up a round of plates for the table like the foie gras terrine with mango chutney and candied onions, the duck a l’orange with a special orange and honey sauce from Borneo, or the Gambas sautéed in pesto sauce and served with calamari rice paella and ratatouille verrine.

Tel: +62 812 3669 6727

www.olalabali.com

NYE SHENANIGANS AT CAFÉ DEL MAR Ibiza’s famous Café del Mar has been reborn in Bali and will be going all out this New Year’s Eve with an insane party featuring two of the world’s most extraordinarily talented artists on the decks. The evening will kick off with a not-to-be-missed sunset set by Grammy award winner and legendary house music superstar DJ David Morales. As the clock strikes 12, there will be glitter on the dance floor and crowds going crazy as the disco-licious Dimitri from Paris sets the stage alight. Known for his ultra-chic beats that cross genres and tempos, Dimitri will have you moving and grooving right into 2020.

Tel: +62 361 447 1625 www.cafedelmarbali.id

STUNNING SILKS BY KOKOON The evolution of Batik Wayang continues. Founded in 2002, the company dedicated itself to preserving Asian motifs by re-designing and interpreting them in its own vision.

Kokoon is now bringing this passion to the next level and to a worldwide audience. Every garment is handmade using traditional techniques on the finest silks and accompanied by artisans throughout its production until lovingly folded into its final packaging. An attached Certificate of Authenticity endorses the artisans’ dedication to the products and guarantees their exceptionality. Artisan craftsmanship of timeless heritage; these exceptionally handmade silks are the perfect gifts... especially to oneself!

Tel: +62 81 2360 4294 www.kokoonsilks.com

HEALING WITH BLING Jewellery designer Anna Michielan has always been about so much more than just the bling. Using the finest gemstones and crystals, she and her team of Balinese artisans create covet-worthy pieces that don’t just look gorgeous, but also aim to heal, protect, and bring balance to your life. She recently opened the Anna Michielan Healing Jewellery store on Jalan Mertanadi, where she gently guides customers in their request to bring a piece of Bali home with them, blessed and charged in the island of the gods. Looking and feeling good has never been so elegant and fun.

Tel: +62 821 4619 4475 www.annamichielan.com

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HANDCRAFTED FROM NATURE The next time you’re on bustling Jalan Berawa, keep an eye out for the elegant turquoise and white facade of Kate Wood Originals because this is one chic boutique you don’t want to miss. The brand is the brainchild of Dutch designer Pim Gietelink, who wanted to create a legacy he could pass on to future generations. He started in Amsterdam, designing wooden sunglasses and watches using only renewable materials, and now there are two flagship stores in Shanghai and Bali offering up sleek, handcrafted products like sunglasses, watches, and phone cases made with only natural materials like bamboo and leftover wood.

Tel: +62 812 4643 7787 www.katewood.com

S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y I S T H E N E W L U X U RY t +62 361 848 2166

e uluwatu@alilahotels.com

alilavillasuluwatu

www.alilahotels.com/uluwatu

BSI INTEGRATIVE NATURAL HEALTH Feeling fatigued, in pain, or generally unwell? BSI to the rescue. This unique health and wellness centre specialises in integrative natural medicine and therapies like natural IV infusions, personalised detox therapies, preventative medicines, and in-depth testing and analysis for a range of conditions. The team of dedicated medical professionals draw on ancient therapies and scientific research to create custom-designed treatments for each patient at their clinics in Canggu and Jimbaran. Whether you’re in need of a quick energy boost or a long-term plan to help battle specific ailments, the BSI team can help get you back on track naturally.

Tel: +62 812 3838 4040 www.bsi.international

THE BALI FLORIST Since 2017, The Bali Florist has been brightening up special occasions with artisanal floral arrangements that go above and beyond what you find in your run-ofthe-mill Bali flower shops. Every week they bring in new flowers in an array of colours to create rustic bouquets and arrangements that also feature earthy touches like brown paper and burlap wrapping, jute ribbons and goni strings. Besides flowers, the shop also carries Bali-produced gift items like essential oils and diffusers, chocolate ganache, and natural soy wax scented candles. Head to the shop in Sanur to peruse the offerings or order online for direct delivery to your home or event site.

Tel: +62 811 388 270 www.thebaliflorist.com

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BALI MAKEUP SCHOOL Learn how to make the world a more beautiful place at Bali Makeup School in Berawa. The school aims to build a bridge between makeup artistry and the luxury travel experience by offering beauty workshops where you can learn top tricks of the trade from industry experts and create your own beauty products with natural ingredients sourced on the island.

For more intensive training, sign up for the Master Programme in Makeup Artistry, which includes four weeks of beauty and fashion training. The international certification program is open to Indonesian citizens, permanent residents and individuals with a tourist or social visa.

Tel: +62 813 5310 1203 www.balimakeupschool.com

GOLDEN HOUR DEALS AT SARDINE Sardine has always been one of our favourite Seminyak spots for sundowners, small plates, and sublime rice paddy views, and even more so now that they’ve introduced happy hour specials. Swing by the sophisticated bar or the main bamboo dining room with its soaring ceiling and soft cushioned seating any day between 4pm and 6pm and you can order up cocktails, tapas and desserts at discounted prices. During happy hour, cocktails start at 100k++, tapas go for 50k++ per plate, and desserts are just 50k++. Guests can also order dishes from the dinner menu like the miso grilled yellowfin tuna and seared duck breast and leg confit.

Tel: +62 811 3978 333 www.sardinebali.com

INNOVATIVE UNI OPENS IN BERAWA The good folks from the Mexicola Group have teamed up with the stars of Urchin to open Uni, a sophisticated sipping and snacking spot in the heart of Berawa. Urchin’s former head chef Steven Skelly and drinks guru Nicolas Lento have put together a stellar menu of contemporary Asian eats accompanied by a unique beverage programme that includes sake, experimental cocktails and tea pairing. Offerings include savoury doughnuts with brandade and beetroot, crab lasagna with soft herbs and ginger emulsion and the cha sui lobster bun. Go a la carte or let the kitchen wow you with a five-course tasting menu.

Tel: +62 811 388 3371 www.uni-restaurant.com

LIFE IS GOOD It’s all about reconnecting the mind, body and soul at Life Spa Bali, a tranquil chill-out space in Tamora Gallery in Canggu. The professional therapists provide invigorating spa treatments using traditional healing techniques for peeps of all ages including little ones. For total rejuvenation, try the signature Life is Good massage that includes face accupressure with Ayurvedic oil to improve blood circulation. Other treatments include the detoxifying body scrub with green tea oil, the collagen facial, and deep tissue massage. Beauty is also on the menu with options like eyelash extensions and manis and pedis using O.P.I polish.

Tel: +62 811 110 5233 www.lifespabali.com

SEVENTH HEAVEN TASTING Dessert lovers this one’s for you. The culinary team at Settimo Cielo knows how hard it can be choosing just one sweet treat to indulge in, so they’ve put together a heavenly platter with five delectable desserts. The Seventh Heaven Tasting selection includes classic Italian desserts including the tiramisu cup, flan al cioccolato, lemon tart natur, chocolate ravioli, and biscotto gelato. The platter is perfect for sharing with a group after a hearty Italian meal, as part of a mid-day coffee break, or as an indulgent after-dinner treat for two.

Tel: +62 361 474 1117 www.settimocielobali.com

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Da Maria Party till sunrise at Da Maria on New Year’s Eve with yes … a Disneyland theme. Pimp your Mickey and get down to the blue and white palace of pleasure for some great tunes until sunrise from Disco Stu, Peter Santos, Andy Chunes, Marco Baglione and special guests. For tickets info hit the up for Platinum standard at IDR1.5mil for a set menu and free flow booze (8pm-midnight), Gold at 500k for free flow pizza from 10pm-midnight, and then after party til the sun comes up with tickets on the door. Not that we need to tell anyone who has been there bit this will be another exceptional Da Maria night.

Tel: +62 811 3859 666 damariabali.com WAHWAH BURGER When Wahwah Burger opened on Jl. Laksamana in 2008 with its inimitable style and free parking out front, they brought the humble burger back onto the fine dining table with burgers made entirely from scratch using never-been-frozen Aussie Wagyu steak dry-aged in-house, truffle infused, and perfectly chargrilled. Since then, they’ve gone on to open Wah Republic in Level 21 Mall for finer western fare like burgers and steaks at local prices, and just recently, they started offering vegan burgers and gluten-free eats for those with food sensitivities. Now you can also grab the highly sought-after gourmet burgers at their new pilot shop in Gourmet Market by Pepito in Sidewalk Mall, Jimbaran.

Tel: +62 361 736 585 www.wahwahburger.com PROMOTER IN PARADISE If you happened to catch the pilot of Promoter in Paradise at the Bali International Film Festival, then you probably already know that this Bali-centric TV series is set to be a hit.

The story follows Tuti, a recent college grad from the Bali ‘burbs. Upon stumbling into the aftermath of a major party, Tuti accidentally lands a role with Bali’s premier event manager and is thrown headlong into the island’s hedonistic party scene. Shot entirely on location in Bali with a crew and cast of talented Indonesian and international artists, the series highlights both the indulgent ‘good times’ of Bali’s high-end tourism scene and the traditional and culturally unique sensibility of daily life on the Island of the Gods. www.seedingtimepictures.com

BAREFOOT LUXURY EXPERIENCE THE NEW KARMA BEACH Bali’s favourite beach enhances the tropical vibe with a stunning renovation

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Silk Sarong Set In Bonsai Pink IDR3,521,600 Pashmina & Silk Throw In Banji Blue IDR4,941,600 www.kokoonsilks.com

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Dot 81MM Cuff in Silver and 18K Gold IDR68,160,000 Dot 44MM Cuff in Silver and 18K Gold IDR41,109,000 www.JohnHardy.com

PEGGY GOU LEGONG SHIRT IDR1,960,279 PEGGY GOU LEGONG HAT IDR630,089 shop.potatohead.co

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BITCOIN$$ IDR1,263,800; YOU ARE A VIP IDR1,313,500 ZIGGYSTAR DUST IDR1,313,500 www.alliadesigns.com

Rolex Skulls idr18,000,000 Pencil Skulls idr8,000,000 Winged Skull idr520,000 www.skullbali.com

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‘ b e r s e g I ‘ pop. 18k white gold plated metal waste with handcrafted plastic bottle cap waste IDR450,000 www.facebook.com/kunangjewelry/

Green MRDXN Ye Ming Zhu Pendant idr5,253,858;

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Blue MRDXN Ye Ming Zhu Pendant idr6,531,858;

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Night and the Sea Collection

Purple MRDXN Ye Ming Zhu Pendant idr9,087,858;

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Red/Gold MRDXN Ye Ming Zhu Pendant idr16,755,858;

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The Galaxy MRDXN Ye Ming Zhu Pendant idr29,535,858 www.ariedixon.com

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THE NEW MULTI-PURPOSE BALM WITH INTENSE MOISTURIZING FORMULA FOR YOUR EVERY NEED 100% NATURAL INGREDIENTS B A N D U N G J A K A R T A .

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C A N G G U D E N PA S A R K A R A N G A S E M J I M B A R A N . N U S A D U A . S A N U R . S E M I N YA K .

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sounds around

Veteran folk-rock Bali fixture Athron and Californian crooner-songstress Leanna Rachel met on Bali and began harmonizing within hours. Sharing a connection that only comes after many lifetimes together, they have drawn on their experiences as a fugitive couple in the 1930s to bring ‘Bullet & Cass’ back to life – telling their stories through dark indie-folk music.

Rich harmonies and melodic emotion sew together tales of love, death, murderous adventures and passionate reunions, singing audiences through a soundtrack of sweet lullabies, grinding rhythms and percussive beats. With a debut EP ready to release and a tour to California in motion, we caught up with these ‘love on the run’ ramblers to ask how their chemistry works on the crossroads of today’s musical landscape…

too much anyway. Truth be told, we prefer putting the power in our own hands. This internet thing means we can tell our own story and reach people with our own means.

CASS: I don’t know much about these internet things, although I do enjoy having the capacity to record for ourselves, in our very own home. I think it’s real important to be self-sufficient these days – I’m just tickled that we can get our music out there usin’ this modern-day technology.

How did you arrive with this new direction for Bullet & Cass? Join forces as a new entity?

BULLET: We fell into harmony from the moment we met.

So B&C, as long-term Bali devotees can you recall any first impressions of this magical island?

BULLET: Being born with an abnormal heart that only beats to the sound of chaos and music, I’ve found it hard to rest my feet in most places. The moment I stood on Bali soil though, I felt a sweet mix of madness and creative harmony that my soul longed for.

CASS: Well, I myself felt the pull in my bones the moment I stepped foot on this land. From that moment, I knew that no matter where I went, I would always feel at peace here.

What would you tell your 10-year-old former selves?

BULLET: Being different isn’t something to shy away from. If you don’t seem to fit into the world, tear a bigger hole in it. Feed the part of your soul that feels different.

If people try to shoot you down, it just means you’re making a mark big enough to aim at.

CASS: Learn the piano. And never take no for an answer.

What’s your biggest challenge these days?

BULLET: For anyone that’s chosen a life like ours, the challenge always lies in what the future will bring.

Some days you’re left to wonder where your next meal will be, other days you wonder who’s blood is on your hands.

But most of all we hope to turn all of our experiences into a musical journey that people will want to follow or join.

CASS: I would say the main challenge is Bullet’s reputation. When we come to a new town, often I find that people are quite scared of Bullet, him bein' so grufflookin’ an' all. That, and they mighta heard some stories. Thankfully, when I’m around, we don’t have many issues.

I tend to smooth a whole lotta things out . . .

[Ok I think that’s enough of that … Ed.]

base & geet.

One more question … what can we expect from Bullet & Cass in the near future?

How did you first get into music?

BULLET: When my papa took to the bottle, the only thing to settle his rage was the gentle hum of music. Mama handed me a guitar most nights to sing away any chance of a beating. Over the years, I guess I just kept on playing.

Now music chases my own demons back to the dark.

Whether it was card tricks, laying low or putting our minds to a bank job, we came together like sparks to a powder keg. It was just a natural progression that we put our stories to song. Our voices feel at home together.

Playing music is our peace in the storm.

CASS: My daddy didn’t pay me much attention at all except for laying down rules. I spent most of my time locked up in my room listening to records, dreaming of the day I could be like Elsie Janis, standing under those bright lights, singing loud enough for the world to hear.

I’m sure my folks would pay some attention if I made a success of myself.

CASS: Yeah, it was real natural – we started singin’ together immediately after a few sips of our first glass of whiskey. Connections like that just don’t come along every day.

Ok so it sounds like we’re in full cowboy mode here, so let me ask you about something a little more of the now: how do you see the current state of the post-internet music industry?

BULLET: Well, it sure gets mighty confusing, compared to the gramophones we would wind up and sing along to. But we never did trust those record company folk 44

just happens with Bullet and I. Generally, the more the thinkin’, the less the gettin’ done.

Ok ... so how do you manage balancing your lyrics and harmonies together usually?

BULLET: With all the voices in my head, there are enough words for a lifetime of songwriting. When Cass and I blend our voices to a tune, the lyrics to a new song are never far behind. We’ll often improvise music at the day’s end and then scribble down notes to save what came naturally.

CASS: Oh that’s not something I even think about – it

Our debut EP ‘Where We Buried Us’ is out soon. The first single ‘Storm’s Coming In’ is out November 15th, followed by music videos, written stories and plenty of surprises. We will be touring California through November and playing shows in Japan in January before heading back to Bali.

You can pre-save the single on spotify at https://show.co/MMrytUF To join us on our musical journey, just head to www.bulletandcass.com Other links: Instagram: @bulletandcass FB: www.facebook.com/bulletandcass Ok, adios amigos. Rock on.

WHAT IN REINCARNATION IS THIS? behold THE PAST LIVES OF ATHRON AND LEANNA RACHEL, aka musical duo bullet & cass. lou niteunz investigates.

Band on the run. Athron and Leanna Rachel.

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people

farah tony stanton caught up with celebrity chef farah quinn between her jaunts around the world to talk golf, old age, and indonesia's favourite sweets. photography: ryerson Anselmo for costes portrait styling: Angie Angorro hair & makeup: redy & ruben, rob peetoom hair spa bali shot on location at the apurva kempinski bali

in step: farah wears top and bottom from kalita, shoes by niluh djelantik.

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Farah Quinn, Indonesia’s beloved kitchen goddess – what the hell have you been up to since we last spoke?

I’ve been doing so many things and been in so many different places. I’ve been travelling a lot and there are some exciting new projects coming up. London for meetings and for fun and now I’m about to leave for New Zealand and Australia. I’m still doing the roadshows for the products I endorse.

You seem to have a special place in the hearts of Indonesia’s TV watching public, why is that do you think?

Well, I’m very flattered. I think it’s because of the way I deliver how I make food. I keep it very simple and I make viewers feel like they are at home with me. My YouTube Channel is getting a lot of views and I think partially that’s because the recipes that I do are also really easy to follow.

What does a chef eat when she’s got no time and is too busy to bother with anything complicated?

When I’m at home I eat a lot of raw food. I love my vegetables, my salads, I can’t get enough of salad. When I have family or friends over that’s when I put in a lot of effort to my cooking. Of course I also cook for my kids.

And what does she cook for that someone special in her life?

Hmm I like to cook comfort food but with a healthy twist. I don’t deep fry anything, especially for people I love. I spent much of my childhood growing up in Sumatra and then later in America, so those two cuisines are the ones I cook most at home.

Type 2 Diabetes is a big problem in Indonesia, how do you change eating habits here for the better, especially among parents with young children?

During my roadshows I always talk to my audience about why kids love vegetables.

You have to start from a very young age and avoid processed food or porridge as their first bite. I always encourage parents to make their own vegetable and fruit purees for their babies so that by the time they grow they are used to all natural flavours. I also talk about ways to make baking healthier.

It’s good to substitute refined sugar with

something that is more natural like gula jawa and brown sugar. Those things are so much better for you – or use honey or just cut down on the sugar. If you follow a recipe just reduce the sugar and see how it is. My passion, my heart, has always been in sweets but I also think about looking after myself.

What is your schedule looking like for the next six months?

For the next three months my schedule is a bit crazy. I'll be traveling a lot because it’s the end of the year; for Christmas and New Year I am always off somewhere and I like to focus on my family during that time. After New Year I start to gear up for work. We’re currently negotiating with a few different companies and networks for some really exciting new projects.

How is your golf game coming along?

My golf game has improved so much!

I stopped playing for a while because I wanted to focus on just being a mother but now I’m back again in the game and have been practicing. Because I travel so much it’s quite hard to schedule a game but I try to go to the range with my coach or wake up super early and play a full round of golf then continue with my super busy day.

So that’s some dedication right there!

What one thing could you not do without in your kitchen?

I cannot live without my KitchenAid. It’s a mixer I use a lot. Honestly it’s a bit overworked as I whip and mix everything.

And what one ingredient?

I would say flaky sea salt because that is the one ingredient I use the most.

Where do you find your strength and will to succeed in life, and what advice would you give to someone looking to become a celebrity chef?

I think it’s important to know what you want, and to have discipline and focus. If you want to become a celebrity chef know that I started from the very, very bottom. So don’t think that everything is glamorous. I started by paying for my own school, working two jobs . . .

After I finished school I did an internship full time and then I worked a second job to make

ends meet. I always knew what I wanted and stayed focused and pretty much went after it.

That got me to where I am now.

Are you involved in any charity work?

I donate regularly to the orphanage in town. I love children so much and it makes me happy when I am surrounded by them and hear their giggles and laughs and see them happy. Also my friend’s son started a charity in Georgia, it’s a beautiful project, he started building a better place for disabled people and I have been involved in that, I have donated and promote the charity to create awareness. Each time there is a request to me from a charity for some sort of contribution such as a personal appearance, dinners etc, I always do my best to be there.

Do you practice any particular way to stay positive?

Yes, you have to be grateful. Whatever ups and downs you have in your life you must always think about being grateful for everything you have. For example, each time I look at my kids it gives me a purpose, they are the ones that give me a reason to be positive. I know I have a big responsibility in raising them.

Where do you see yourself in 20 years’ time?

More relaxed! I would like to dedicate more time to my family, my loved ones, although I will probably still be travelling the world.

But I’d like to just spend time making kue lapis at home, it’s something that I can’t really do these days as it takes so long to make. And then still playing golf. Who knows, maybe I'll be a single handicapper by then.

What’s next for Farah Quinn?

The best is yet to come! Although I can’t say anything about it yet, there are several very exciting projects in the mix. Some are going to be really big projects. Of course food and Indonesian culture will be the main ingredients.

TOP: farah wears dress by windy chandra. Above: lily jean satin silk slip.

Safe travels Farah Quinn. @farahquinnofficial

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people

tony stanton speaks to jewelry designer and free spirit mishka piaf about life in the middle, the freedom of the night and embracing the commerical. photo: Cyril Saulnier. mua by ariya gunawan.

Mishka, how has life been for since we last saw you?

Life has been of handful of lessons and experiences since we last spoke. I was designing under my first label “Mishka Piaf”, traveling, doing pop up shops, my designs were featured in a handful of music videos and editorials. There was a point where I got burnt out and decided to regroup so I started dabbling in other creative mediums like expanding my accessories collection, styling and consulting other designers with the knowledge I gained through experience. Right now I am at a rebirth stage of my new brand “Dom Mishka” in which I focus on higher quality fashion, accessories and lifestyle.

What have you been busy with?

Preparing “Dom Mishka” has been a major consumption of my time. I was hired to style a couple of music videos and editorials back in Los Angeles and had fun with those. I even dabbled in personal shopping and still do that for select clients. Keeping busy is easy for me.

Where are you now on your personal journey in life?

I'm taking time for myself. Focusing on my physical and mental health. I have started incorporating childhood hobbies like riding horses to balance my creative isolation. Overall my goal is to become a better person and be able to look in the mirror and say: “Yes this is you and you can do this”.

Have you found that attitudes have changed towards the way you are, the way you dress, in the last 10 years?

Not really, usually I keep to myself and try not to let outside sources bother me. I do feel that my style has become more refined in places and enjoy the pieces I create and wear. I am pretty picky with certain things so it's just nice being able to design things that I would probably buy if I saw

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them on the shelf. Overall I’d say people are quite positive towards me and my style usually strikes up conversation with like-minded energies.

Where do you feel most free?

The night time is where I feel most free. Whether it’s lighting some candles, listening to music and putting my hand to paper while letting the energy flow. I also enjoy night events where dressing up is expected and everyone's energy is just about a good time.

Feeling free is something I aim for on the daily so as long as I can control my environment I feel free.

Is there one story you can share with us from your early life that describes who you are, and what has formed your attitudes to life?

One story? That’s tough … I have enough stories to create a TV series! But I’d say my first memory is like most children who live by the beat of their own drum … growing up I was bullied and made fun of in school for being myself. It got to the point where I ended up doing an independent study and today take that experience where if something isn’t working in one place remove yourself into an environment that supports you.

When are you at your most creative?

I am most creative in environments where I know my ideas can become reality. I have been on a mission to find the right team to create my fantasy and lately it's been magic with some of the people I have made contact with.

What influences your accessories and personal design in fashion?

I love music culture for the most part and get inspired by artists who create and display work of who they are. In my head I have created a character (myself ) and dress accordingly as if life were a movie and obviously I am the starring role!

What would be your dream commercially for your jewelry brand?

Previously my pieces were specialty and only fit a niche market. Today my concepts are a bit more wearable and commercial. This has been a hard lesson for me but with some of my new designs I can actually wear them during the day and not look like I stumbled out of some New Wave club.

Is there no design which is too outrageous a concept for you?

I appreciate outrageous design, I feel it makes fashion more an art form. For me I have toned down certain elements of my work yet kept with the idea of texture, shapes and materials. I’ve done the whole Hollywood music scene and even though my pieces were good on stage, they were a bit outrageous for the average consumer.

Are there any particular celebrities who you think could wear your designs, and embody what they mean?

Madonna would be someone I admire most. She is independent, not afraid to grow, she tries new things and her style is one I look at and think yes I’d wear that or yes that’s a similar direction I am going.

Where is Mishka in 10 years’ time?

Hopefully still alive … I try not to set many future plans and prefer living in the moment. I do expect to unveil “Dom Mishka” and offer a wider array of designs, products and services with the knowledge I’ve gained. On a personal note as long as I keep learning, growing and being myself all will work out.

IG: @dommishka

they.

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people

john, you've had a colourful life – tell us first how you transitioned from music mogul to property agent . . .

In the early eighties I was an agent and manager for Bananarama, Culture Club, Eurythmics and various other bands. After about four years I got burnt out and went to live with my mother, who at that time was in Tenerife. There I met a man who’d just started a property sales company and he said, “You’re bored as bat shit, why don't you help me sell some property?” I started off at the bottom of the food chain but I loved it. I worked with him from '84 to '93, and we built one of the biggest businesses of its kind in Europe.

How did beer and girls in bikinis inspire Karma’s creation?

In 1993 I went to Goa to speak at a conference and I was amazed by the opportunity there. I mean there were pristine beaches, land was cheap to buy and construction costs were low. You could see there was a middle class emerging, the Indian consumer had been brought up on Bollywood movies and they loved the idea of a western style holiday, with beaches and beer and girls in bikinis, so Goa was a natural magnet for them. In 1994 I was told about Bali, I arrived and we set up a small joint venture. We developed our first resort in Candidasa; we now have seven properties across Indonesia.

What attributes are required to create this level of success?

I love what I do and view it as a hobby – so I’m blessed to actually make money out of my hobby.

I think I’ve been very successful at being able to compartmentalize, not thinking too much, but at the same time thinking a lot: which is a juggling act.

I believe immensely in motivation, so a lot of what I do is about motivating people, which is why I spend time giving speeches and opening resorts, or doing PR. I have a sense of humour and don't take myself too seriously, and I probably drink too much good wine, which certainly helps!

Where did your passion for teaching come from?

If you’d asked me prior to 2013, “Would I be a teacher?”

I would have laughed and said, “Of course not!”

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After I received the first fellowship at Yale University I was headhunted – so to speak – by UCLA and then by the University of Pennsylvania to teach similar classes, and here I am again with Yale, so this is my fourth assignment. I enjoy teaching a lot and I probably learn as much from the students as they learn from me.

There’s a certain parallel with what I do in business anyway. Educating people and teaching for me is not a hard thing, it’s what I have been doing for most of my working life.

Why does philanthropy form a big part of Karma’s philosophy?

I use the word Karma loosely because any Buddhist or Hindu would slap me in the face and say, ‘You're not using it correctly’, but essentially, you get the love that you give to the universe, which bounces back to you. I think there’s too much arrogance with foreign companies in the world who come to another country and make money and don't give back to the community and wonder why they run into problems.

Why did Yale University appoint you ‘Distinguished Visiting Professor’ for the second time?

Yale University has an annual fellowship, which is endowed by a gentleman called Edward P Bass who is a billionaire oil magnet in the States. I was appointed Distinguished Visiting Professor of Architectural Design for the second time because although the students are taught by the best, they don’t really understand how it works in the real world. So the purpose of this particular fellowship is to bring on board, for a semester, a non-academic developer to join the teaching team of academics. Because I dropped out of university and instead went to London to be a guitarist and a music agent, it was a huge honour to be involved in the Yale system. The first time was in 2013, and now I have been awarded the fellowship a second time and we are conducting a building study at my hotel on the island of Gili Meno, Lombok.

Our involvement is not just remote – as in writing a cheque once a month – when we do Camp Royal in India we shut the resort for a week, give the staff time off, and invite 900 children to come and have a holiday.

It’s so popular there’s a waiting list consisting of our clients who volunteer as staff and enjoy looking after them.

Why is Karma Reef the perfect educational test site?

We looked at various sites and decided it would be good to use one of our real sites because Gili Meno was damaged badly by the recent earthquake. The challenge for the Yale students is to take this piece of land in an earthquake-prone part of the world and design a resort that is esthetically pleasing, sustainable, and commercially viable. It’s up to them to come back with concepts and ideas, and on a weekly basis we review their work, suggest changes and jointly discuss the solution. Sustainability is a very in vogue issue and, in my opinion, the younger generation is more conscious and more caring about sustainability than the older generation.

How did Karma Sanctum begin, and when is it coming to Bali?

The idea behind Sanctum is quite humourous. Bruce Dickinson the lead singer of Iron Maiden got annoyed because they changed the licensing laws in Soho, London, so you couldn't drink after 1o’clock in the morning. Someone gave him the cunning idea, “If you had a hotel you could have a 24-hour bar license”, so he opened Sanctum in Warwick Street. When he realised he had a hotel to be run they came to me and we took it over, and it's now Karma Sanctum. We own a site in Bali and plan to create a hotel here for clientele who own a Harley or two, and listen to Iron Maiden on their headphones.

John Spence, rock on and thanks so much for your time. www.karmagroup.com

karma chameleon university drop out john spence managed culture club, built a proprety empire and is now a visiting professor at yale. karen donald meets the man. image: oscar munar.

unapologetically JOHN SPENCE.

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people up-and-coming filmster kezia alexandra brings a diverse background to play on projects that challenge established values. she spoke to tony stanton. photo: oscar munar.

screen time for kezia.

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Kezia, can you tell us a bit about how and where you grew up?

I was born in Jakarta. I don’t really remember much actually. I remember I spent a lot of time with my grandparents and my (boy) cousins when I was small.

My Dutch grandmother used to read me European tales that were pretty dark for a kid at that time. She also loved to tell the story with different noises that brought the story to life. As if the narration wasn't even needed, just noises and the character’s dialogue. Then there was the boys' world that involved loads of music, video games and sports. They always treated me as part of their pack so basically I was a boy for them. Later I moved to London and San Francisco for school.

What did you learn from your parents, do you think?

No matter how far I’ve travelled, I always remember my roots, culture and faith. My family has a mixed heritage (my parents are from Sumatra and Sulawesi), and to witness how each of them stays strong to their traditions and still shares is mesmerizing to me. This is what I always come back to. I kind of lost it after being exposed to so many different cultures when traveling to different countries. Yet my parents hold on to their beliefs, which were once tribal and have somehow been adjusted to something more urban.

And what did you decide to do that was different from them?

I think it's important to remember your roots and culture, but I also think as generations evolve there should be more room for compromise, and it shouldn't always be limited to one's faith or beliefs. So there's that.

When did you first get into film work?

During my high school I remember my father said to me: “Aren’t you curious about how a movie is lit and narrated?" Then he gave me a copy of Pink Floyd: The Wall to watch and I went from that into Samsara, then drastically to Gaspar Noè, Ingmar Bergman, Jean-Pierre Jeunet, Tim Burton – I was spellbound by the world of motion pictures. I fell in love with the idea that each world was created by a compilation of creative minds, each with their own specialty, finally producing one piece of art that had the ability to hypnotize people. But it wasn't until university that I started actually working with film.

Do you think you’ve been shaped more by your early life in Jakarta or by your time in America?

I think they’re mutually interdependent. One is as

important as the other. It's as if you’re born as clay. In my early life, I made my first sculpture and then it broke down and scattered. So I reshaped myself using the same clay, just in a different shape. Lately I think it has broken down again, and is ready to be reshaped once more.

What films have you worked on, and with whom?

I worked on a few short films as gaffer that were nominated in various film festivals in San Francisco and London. I've also directed a few music videos and experimental projects that were nominated in festivals in the UK and the States, and I just had my first music video screened in Australia. I really enjoy working on projects with an intimate crew that are just pure creativity without having to worry about the market. My first short film gig in Indonesia was actually shot in Bali and I worked with an amazing crew under the lighting department. It was an honour to work with one of the best Indonesian DPs (Director of Photography) Gunnar Nimpuno, an amazing director and producer who were part of Dunkirk crew as assistant directors.

As for bigger films, my first feature film as a gaffer was for the movie Preman Pensiun with DP Gunung Nusa Pelita. It was my first shoot in Indonesia, two weeks after I arrived back from America. Before that, I was working in a film lighting rental house company that hooked me up to work on Sorry To Bother You (DP – Doug Emmet and Director Boots Riley), Blindspotting (DP – Robby Baumgartner and Director Carlos Estrada), Antman2 (DP – Dante Spinotti and Director Peyton Reed), Venom (DP – Matthew Libatique and Director Ruben Fleischer), Bumblebee: The Movie (Transformers 6), 13 Reasons Why, The OA, and Billions.

What’s your approach to your work, and what are you generally trying to express?

There are different things expressed in different projects, yet most of the projects convey the absence of a border between reality and illusion, and beauty within an uncomfortable space, generally revealed in a creepy, gothic style. Sometimes it's expressed through the story, lighting, sound or simply composition. I use a lot of sacred geometry in my artwork (still or motion), it's like hidden treasure if you notice it. At times I just want the audience to feel a specific emotion or feeling, with no chance to escape from it.

What do you look for in an actor?

A transformation into a being that delivers everyday

emotions and at the same time delivers unusual feelings through facial expressions and body language. This speaks louder than words.

Do you think that experimental films can ever really adapt to the mainstream?

Perhaps. If the term mainstream refers to it being accepted, then yes. But if it refers to it being popular then I’m not so sure. Maybe the mainstream can adapt to experimental film? It’s always a small circle. A place where filmmakers can purely express themselves without needing to worry about what others think. At the same time experimental films also offer a sanctuary where filmmakers simply experiment with what they want audiences to feel. Bringing their emotions to a realization. Most of the time it is not comfortable or pleasant. Art is not always about beauty. Experimental films are like a laboratory for us.

How involved are you in scripting an idea, and how does that process work for you in bringing an idea to fruition?

A lot I would say. The first thing that comes to my mind is often a picture, then I asked why that picture? That’s when the concept comes, then there’s research that develops the first picture into a different one. It just goes on and on. Now, what palette am I going to paint with?

How much shadow? How’s the sound going to be?

What materials or objects can I use to substitute words?

How can I put those into words? There are times when the picture comes from the prose, but it doesn’t mean I would use that prose as dialogue. I like to narrate with as few words as possible, letting the image and sound design do the talking.

What are you working on now, and what’s next for Kezia?

A couple of different things. I just came back from Borneo working on a documentary about reforestation and permaculture. I will try to collaborate with other artists to continue this documentary while simultaneously working on another short with a friend.

Hopefully I can also join film festivals locally as well as internationally. Apart from motion pictures, I’m also working on my photography and mixed media that I hope will show at next year’s art events in Yogyakarta.

Kezia, thanks for your time. www.keziaalexandra.com

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culture vulture

art director adimas reynard is putting the quirk into indonesia's quietly excellent style scene.

little miss robocop.

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Hello mister.

Did you know Reynard means Fox in French?

I do!

We’re assuming your mother didn’t call you Fox ... where does that name come from?

And while we are at it, how and where did you grow up?

I'm assuming I am part Fox. My dad's probably been a fox this whole time. That explains a lot.

I grew up mostly in Surabaya.

Were there any defining moments in your formative years that led you down the path of art direction and styling?

Childhood oppression seems to play a huge part in forming my aesthetics. I was a bit spoilt and I found comfort in that.

Later when I grew up, my parents would still want to "spoil" me but on one condition: I had to live a certain way - the way they'd been living their lives. Being gay was a no-no; and I had to live near them.

Ha ha well, nope. Anyway they are out of the way now ... ha ha ha just kidding. Hi mom!

What pronouns do you use?

Adimas!

You’re an art director with a different vision ... where did that eye come from? Tell us about your design world.

I really don't know. Maybe it's because I like looking at memes before going to bed?

Where do you get your (often amazing) props?

I make most of them myself or I ask pak tukang to help me.

Some of your work reminds us of early editions of The Face magazine. Who are your inspirations?

Keita Takahashi (Katamari Damacy), Toby Fox (Undertale), Emmet Kelly, Slava Polunin, Touko Valio Laaksonen - best known by his pseudonym Tom of Finland, Pierreet Gilles, Thom Browne and the the grindr app.

What are you currently working on? How do you work?

I am currently working on myself. It includes a lot of shopping for video games that I will never finish.

Do you think Indonesia gets the proper recognition worldwide for its creative strength?

I don't have an answer for this, sorry.

How would you describe your work and style?

Sexy and stupid.

What’s next for Adimas Reynard?

Run away to the circus or become a porn star. Or both.

IG: @adimasreynard

subarashii style.

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baby face.

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culture vulture

adimas reynard, the real me.

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culture vulture

a book project by photographer Fiorenzo Nisi documents bali after dark – and after hours. he spoke to tony stanton.

strike a pose.

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Fio, you’re well known to us here at The Yak of course.

Tell us something about yourself we don’t know.

First of all I would like to thank you all at the magazine for your support over the years. It was a great honour for me to have been nominated as one of the Photographers Of The Year at the recent Yak Awards, and to be nominated together with such great talent. And to answer your question … I have a secret dream to become a film director and write a Fellini-esque movie. And to publish a very special book.

Ok, tell us about the book…

When I was living in NYC I loved how great photographers like Roxanne Lowit became candid witnesses to the social and party life that surrounded them. I have shot the scene here in Bali for 15 years, right from the early (and rightly legendary) bikini and white parties at Ku De Ta to the opening of W Hotel to Omnia in Uluwatu . . . not to mention the big parties in Singapore, KL and Thailand. In this age of social media and insane picture traffic I thought it would be a good idea to create a coffee table book as a cinematic storyboard of dynamic photos that capture the fun and sensual energy of the parties I’ve covered. And maybe to include some of the more decent images from the after parties too, lol. I’ve been part of the crowd for a long time, and this has given me 'access all areas', if you understand me. In a nutshell this book is about the joy of life when you dance like nobody is watching. So that’s basically why it’s called Bali After Hours …

What was it like moving from New York City to Bali back then . . . it must have been a huge shift.

NYC was like being in a movie, frankly. New York was so amazing in the ‘90s. Crazy fun. I met so many great people there, including Mad Mark Baker . . . we were known as Double Trouble . . . enough said. And then when I arrived in Bali in 2001 after 20 years in big cities (Milan, Miami, NY and LA) I imagined life here would quickly become a boring affair, but it never did. Bali has the most interesting and cosmopolitan world of party goers I have ever seen,

certainly more so than any other tourist destination I’ve experienced. Since those early days the island has become even more international with a younger and sexier crowd of interesting people visiting from all over the world. Yes of course there are infrastructure problems but the party scene here remains world class and just keeps growing.

Given the subject matter, and the obvious undertones, how do you think this book will go down with the #metoo gen?

I always strive to portray the beauty and sensuality of women and men of every colour and sexual orientation.

I’m making a book to entertain and have no intention of exploiting anyone, that’s why I am seeking a consensual release from all the subjects involved. I also have two writers who will work on the project, my dear friend Taro Joy and the lovely Simona Sparaco … so we’ll have a perspective from both sides of the wardrobe, so to speak.

This book will represent your work from the last two to three decades. There must be quite a few images you can’t or won’t be able to fit in? How will we be able to see those?

Yes there are some beautiful moments that are just 'For Your Eyes Only', but sometimes it's better to keep those in the vault of your own memory. They won’t be in the book.

Do you think it’s fair to say this book will be like a diary of your days and nights?

My working nights, yes. Until sunrise.

How do you get people to be so comfortable around you, especially late at night when you have a camera to hand?

I think it’s because they know my style and they know they will look great in the pictures . . . but it’s about trust of course. People, friends, they know I won't post the images anywhere without their consent. I’ve been shooting photos and film now since 1996, and no one has complained so far.

So you’ve never had one of those calls in the morning from someone concerned that they went too far the night before?

Not that I remember. Honestly I see things on Instagram that are pretty out there already … just think of Kim Kardashian – the most followed woman on the planet – and her porn video online, everywhere. My photos are just candid moments of fun, nothing to be ashamed of.

Ok. You’re having a dinner party, a final hurrah, and you want to shoot something new for the book’s second edition. Who do you invite?

Definitely my besties from RE-SET crew . . . they are always great partners in crime for a successful dinner party. Adrian from Tropicola and his fam – he’s a riot of fun and a true gentleman – and some of my close friends from Singapore.

You know who you are!

Who did you NOT shoot for this book?

Anyone with a grudge. Anyone who didn't pay their bill.

Who will you dedicate it too?

To all the open-minded friends that jump in front of my lens on the dance floor.

Where will we be able to buy Bali After Hours, and when will it be available?

We are dealing now with the publisher to finalise distribution in the region and we are also thinking to print a very limited supersize signed edition for private purchase only.

If an alien came to earth and flicked through the book, how would they describe it? In a few words...

“Why wasn’t I invited to the after party?”

Fio, good luck and thanks for your time. www.photografio.com

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cats.

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culture vulture

strung up.

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culture vulture

chain gang. top: all along the watchtower.

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painted lady.

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Jalan Petitenget 208 Seminyak Bali

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shishibali.com

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Photographey and styling: Anastasiya Otkidach @otkidach Makeup : Evgenia Korchagina @korchaginamakeup Style: Anastasiya Otkidach Model: Yana Chubis Location: Banyumala Twin Waterfalls, Bali

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yak fashion

“With a voice that sounded like the wind through roses, she whispered, ‘My boy...”

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yak fashion

“Not knowing is half the fun," Aphrodite said, "Exquisitely painful isn't it? Not being sure who you love and who loves you?"

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“Choose,' she says, reaching out towards him. 'Choose to which of us the apple most belongs...�

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passions Rattus norvegicus. left to right: David Iglesias (seated) mac pediri, mark baker, paul hugo, adrian reed, will hayden, shah dillon.

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What does it take to succeed in Bali's competitive club scene? we gathered the Rat Pack at seminal speakeasy 40 thieves to discover what it takes become – and stay – bali's street corner boss. images: oscar munar. words: karen donald

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passions

Paul Hugo / Director of Marketing & Events at Hakkasan Group Paul has worked in the entertainment business for the last 30 years promoting festivals for up to 50,000 people.

Inspired by the birth of acid house in the UK, he promoted seminal Bristol clubs and raves before a move to London introduced him to the international club scene. Aligning himself with UK super club GodsKitchen, Paul led their international division for the best part of the next 15 years. He was also instrumental in the growth of festival brand GlobalGathering, one of the first multi-day music festivals in the UK. Paul first visited Indonesia in 2003 bringing Armin van Buuren to Jakarta for a Godskitchen event, one of the first major outdoor dance music events, attracting 15,000 people. Shortly after arriving in Bali he joined the Hakkasan team as Director of Marketing and launched OMNIA & Sake no Hana Bali. Paul now oversees all of Hakkasan Group’s projects in Indonesia.

“I have always made it a priority to learn as much as possible about the local culture when entering new international markets”, Paul says. “To understand the nuances that are not necessarily obvious on the surface but are deeply important when conducting business in different countries is essential to genuine success. Also having the ability to be flexible and adapt your brand (whilst maintaining core values) is essential. Dare to do things differently, push boundaries, don’t accept can’t as an answer. Most of all, I try to be grateful every day for the opportunities I have, and always do my best.”

Adrian Reed / Tropicola Beach Club Founder of Tropicola Beach Club, Adrian Reed first arrived here on regular surfing holidays with his parents. Adrian’s creation Tropicola is a beautiful spacious venue with reminiscent of an Ibiza beach holiday. It’s equipped with swimming pools and three bars that serve all the piña coladas one could possibly want, accompanied by mindblowing sunsets and top quality food. With killer music Tropicola is a beach club with a big personality. Adrian says: “You need to be an extraordinary leader, and what makes an extraordinary leader is someone who leads by example with lots of compassion, love and understanding, with an extremely strong mindset where there is no such thing as ‘wrong’, which allows everyone within the business to be motivated firstly to innovate with no fear so that what they do will have no consequence if it’s wrong.

That is a significant quality for most leaders.”

Mark Baker / OMNIA Bali Mark became Britain’s first-ever professional skateboarder in the ’70s – a member of the legendary Dogtown crew from Venice, California. He was at the forefront of international nightlife and lifestyle trends for over 30 years, owning and operating some of the world’s most legendary and prestigious restaurants, clubs, lounges and supper

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clubs including Lotus and Double 7. He is currently the “Ambassador of Fun” at OMNIA Bali, as well as founder of Beachgarden Organic Kitchen and In the Raw, Bali’s very first cold-pressed juice company. “To succeed in the nightclub business takes nothing less than 100 percent commitment and a ‘Never give up’ attitude”, explains Mark.

“One day you’ve got the hottest club in the world, the next it’s yesterday’s news! It’s a brutal business and lifestyle and certainly not for everyone. You have to be on all the time, there’s little rest and it’s tough on relationships. Most don’t survive in our world. ‘You’re only good as your last party’ is a good motto to remember when you think you’re the boss.

But when it all comes together and your party or club is going off, there’s nothing in the world quite like it.”

Will Hayden / Mexicola Group Will Hayden is Marketing Manager for Mexicola Group, which includes Mexicola, Da Maria and Luigi’s Hot Pizza.

Motel Mexicola hit the scene during 2013 as a unique venue offering good times and authentic Mexican food all fuelled by great tequila. Co-Founder Nicolaza Que Pasa created a wild slice of Mexico and it was an overnight sensation, with beautiful clean lines and bright colours nestled amongst the coco palms and glassy swells of Seminyak. “Marketing has always been my passion," states Will. “I have been blessed to experience a 360-degree view of business during my career development – back in my country Costa Rica, then in New York and now in Bali. I’ve worked in advertising, production, sales, entertainment, and I’ve been the client – this has given me an opportunity to understand the business as a whole. If you want your brand to be successful you have to be your brand’s number one fan – you breathe it, you Iive it, with passion – that way you become your brand’s target, and then you know exactly how to build it up.”

Mac Pedari / ShiShi Asian Bistro & Nightclub Born and raised in Dubai, U.A.E, and originating from Iran, Mac continued his studies and work experience in Miami before heading to Europe and extending his knowledge within the media and hospitality industry in Rome and Stockholm – where he also opened an advertising company and a solarium franchise. Since moving to Bali in 2008 Mac has been actively managing, consulting and owning several nightclubs. His first bar was Ma In Lo, in Kuta, which became a direct hit. Next came Mbargo, VIP and the first pure electronic music venue, Mint. Soon after he opened the late night club Pyramid which held a capacity of 1000 pax every weekend and became everyone's late night destination. Opium was his next venture along with their signature Full Moon beach parties then Mac headed to Sky Garden as a consultant and Red Ruby Bali before opening Rebenga Lounge & Kitchen. His latest project is ShiShi Bali in Petitenget. “I believe in leadership, hard work, knowledge, networking,

and patience”, says Mac. “Being able to offer a great service, fully understand the local culture and have the ability to train staff, with good legal and government connections – these are some of the key factors required to succeed in the nightlife business in Indonesia.”

David Iglesias / El Kabron Forty-year-old David Iglesias arrived in Bali as a young entrepreneur in 2003, and after spending a few years enjoying the good life he and his partners founded El Kabron in 2011. He was running El Kabron until January 2018 when he took a break to focus on his two babies.

Now his brother Jesus and the new management are running the new El Kabron: inspired by Spanish cuisine and ambience. The unique restaurant and hedonism lounge concept is located in the heart of Uluwatu and is known for hosting parties with no expense spared – including make up artists, dancers, fire-eaters, fireworks, magical sunsets, and top notch DJ’s. According to David “There are many ways to succeed as a quick one-off business. But the key to long-lasting success – especially when the competition is growing very fast – is to keep yourself surrounded by a great team and evolve faster than the others without loosing the roots that brought you to the top in the first place.”

Shah Dillon / 40 Thieves 40 Thieves Club is the first installation of the Midnight Brigade Group of Boutique and Bespoke Concepts.

The brainchild and sole proprietor Shah Dillon – a Singaporean/Malay native started off bartending when he was just 16 years old. With so much love and passion for the trade, he quit school and decided to pursue the drink-slinging profession. With over 10 years experience in the craft, and working in some of the most highly regarded establishments in Singapore, Shanghai and Sydney, Shah finally emptied his savings and made the dream a reality – the 40 Thieves Club was born!

According to Shah: “To succeed in this kind of business you must build the relationship first, then build the business: this is something I strongly believe in. You can have the best decor, concept, and product, but without building a relationship and a connection with the community and any guest that walks through the door, it will feel just like any other bar with no soul. "Remember the guests name, remember his favourite seat, remember his favourite drink or make him the drink before he orders. The bartender, the waitress, the parking guy, everyone has to think as one. Fly them out for a guest shift at other cocktail bars around the world and expose them to the bartending community. My bars are a bit different than the other boys in the group, mine is a speakeasy small bar concept, so it’s a small team and heavily focused on the product, concept and personality: hence that’s what I feel it takes to succeed.”

all in.

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yak fashion Photography: Sharon Angelia Stylist: Adimas Reynard Model: Ksenia (Amor Models) Make up: Erryk Wahyu All clothes: Rashawl www.rashawl.co.id

proid coat.

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dameron top, kenobi cullotes.

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yak fashion opera coat.

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proid coat, beru long toP.

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yak fashion padme long top.

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tagge dress.

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Venue: Seseh Beach Villas / Planner: Global Weddings

Sound Systems • Lighting • Staging & Flooring • Special Effects • Props

Beautifully illuminating events.

+62 811 396 4444 Handono +62 851 0058 0033 Office www.virtuosobali.com info@virtuosobali.com @virtuoso.bali @virtuoso.bali

omnibus

FOR THE LOVE OF THE GAME 86

G av a F ox ta k es o n th e p o w e r of sp ort.

A n d his e x wif e.

You don't have to be a sports fan to have been thoroughly engrossed by the recent Rugby World Cup in Japan, where the hosts won legions of supporters at home and abroad with a fairytale run before the tournament was settled by the traditional giants of the sport – with South Africa's Springboks emerging triumphant.

I watched a couple of the games with my ex-wife, the pair of us displaying a degree of post-marital harmony rarely seen among divorced couples, and was reminded just how much sport can both divide and unite individuals, families, towns, cities and even countries.

The Prussian military theorist Carl von Clausewitz famously wrote in the 18th Century that "war is the continuation of politics by other means", an aphorism that could easily extend to " … and sport is the continuation of war".

The history of almost every ancient culture depicts people engaged in some form of sporting combat – with archery and wrestling a common theme across almost all of them – but you can go even further back and imagine to our Neanderthal ancestors and imagine teen brothers Ugg and Grugg messing around outside a cave entrance with a stone-tossing contest, or seeing who could throw a spear the furthest.

I’m pretty sure that’s where the shot putt and javelin were invented.

Pre-historic cave paintings from nearly 16,000 years ago in Lascaux, France, depict humans wrestling, as does rock art from Egypt dated back to 10,000 BC. “The Epic of Gilgamesh”, considered the oldest surviving great work of literature, has the hero engaging in a form of belt-wrestling not dissimilar to sumo around 2,000 BC, while 500 years later the Greeks were taking part in bull-jumping competitions.

The ancient Greeks, of course, gave us the Olympic Games, with the first recorded gathering taking place in 776 BC. The first games consisted only of sprint races, but four years later – yes, they were the ones who came up with the time interval – participants also competed in boxing, wrestling, jumping, javelin and discus.

Athletes competed in the nude to ensure there was no cheating, and art depicting the competition shows them to be less than generously endowed, as having a massive set of tackle in those days was considered low class and vulgar. I would have been royalty back then ...

The games were considered so important that a general truce was enacted across all lands so that athletes could travel safely for the competition – and in any event, most of the competitors were drawn from the officer ranks of various armies.

Most early sport consisted of individuals competing for glory, but the first example of team games emerged in Persia, where cavalry warriors played polo to practice their synchronized horsemanship.

In 2002, shortly after the ousting of the Taliban following the September 11 attacks, I sat on a carpet on field in Mazar-iSharif in northern Afghanistan and watched two teams of mounted Tajiks take part in a game of Buzkashi – the first held for years, as the religious zealots had banned the sport as being barbaric. The Taliban really have no sense of irony.

I could have been transported back 2,000 years as teams

of horsemen competed for the carcass of a decapitated goat, with the aim being to race around a flag at your opponents’ end before depositing the grisly prize at a stone cairn known as “the circle of victory”.

It was a brutal affair.

Riders whipped their horses, their opponents’ horses, and their opponents in the chase for the “ball” – and given you generally needed both hands free, you steered your mount by gripping the reins with your teeth, resulting in several incidents of unwanted dentistry.

Games can last for days in remote villages, but on this occasion proceedings were halted after a few hours. It was a goalless draw ...

Two other team sports have survived in recognizable form from that period – hurling from ancient Ireland, and the notdissimilar shinty from Scotland. For the uninitiated, both are a form of hockey – but the ball is mostly hit in the air, and the flailing sticks also means most participants have the smiles of an Afghan Buzkashi player.

It was actually from those British-ruled islands that almost all modern sport emerged.

The launch of the agricultural and industrial revolutions in 18th Century Britain gave people something they had never had before – leisure time – and they used the opportunity to invent a host of individual and team games most of which have not only survived, but spread across the world to become multi-billion dollar industries.

Football, cricket, rugby, tennis, golf, hockey ... all of these emerged from the village greens or public schools of England, codified by a rigid set of rules before being exported across the empire.

“That’s not cricket, old boy” became an expression that signaled something improper was being done, something against the rules, while Henry Newbolt inspired a generation to fight in his poem “Vitai Lampada”, when in the heat of battle a young solider is spurred into action by his schoolboy memories: “His captain's hand on his shoulder... play up! Play up! And play the game!"

The revolutionary Americans were one of the few colonies not to fully embrace British sports, although national pursuits such as baseball and NFL have obvious roots in cricket and rugby.

That sport became one of Britain’s greatest exports has, of course, been something of an albatross for the inventors as many nations not only embraced it, but became better at it and started beating the masters at their one game.

This happened at the same time another significant shift was taking place in sport – the advent of professionalism.

The owners of great industries in Britain took pride in pitting their workers against those employed by their rivals.

Fabulously wealthy businessman would wager huge sums on the outcome of rugby and cricket matches between two mines or factories, but the problem was that the workers were not being paid to play – and they were expected to use their only day off to take part, or lose their jobs.

It started when cricket authorities realized they would lose a significant number of the very best players if they refused to pay them, so they came up with the idea of dividing them into 87

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“gentlemen”, or amateurs, and “players”, or professionals.

This form of sporting apartheid was so deeply entrenched that professional players were not allowed into the club house or to use other facilities, and when the first English teams containing professionals went abroad to play against the colonies, the gentlemen sailed First Class while the players went steerage – never socialising during the weekslong voyages to India, Australia and South Africa.

Rugby took it further, and when coal miners and steel factory workers in the north of England were banned from the sport for life for accepting wages, they formed their own version of the game – rugby league – a hybrid that has 13 players on the field instead of union’s 15, and a modified set of rules.

The first cricket Test – a match between nations considered “proficient” in the game – was played between Australia and England in Melbourne in 1877, with the home team emerging victorious against the somewhat depleted tourists.

Incidentally, if you ever want to impress (or depress) your friends, ask them who played the first-ever international cricket match. The answer: USA versus Canada in 1844 at the St George’s Cricket Club in New York.

If England invented cricket, and Australia then created one of sport’s greatest rivalries by beating the masters in their own back yard in 1882 to start the Ashes, then India is now the rulers of all.

Although the fortunes of teams ebb and flow, cricket in India is on a scale that dwarfs the sport everywhere else it is played. Players earn millions of dollars playing various versions of the game and are worshipped as gods in a land not short of deities.

Still, of all sports, the money footballers make is, quite frankly, obscene.

According to Statista, Manchester United were the most generous employers in England’s premier league last season with an average annual salary of $8.6 million, while at lowly Cardiff the average wage was $1.4 million in the same division.

According to Forbes magazine, Argentine Lionel Messi is the highest-paid athlete in the world, earning $127 million a year – every year – for, ahem kicking a ball around a field.

In total 12 football players make the list of the top 100 highest paid players – each earning more than $25 million annually – with Cristiano and Neymar filling second and third place.

The highest paid athlete who is not a footballer is probably someone you’ve never heard of – the Mexican boxer Canelo Alvarez, while Roger Federer (tennis), Russell Wilson and Aaron Rodgers (American football) LeBron James, Stephen Curry and Kevin Durant (all basketball) fill out the top 10.

That Alvarez and Federer make the list is remarkable, because in terms of human achievement doing something on your own in sport is particularly laudable.

The world was mesmerized in the summer of 1954 when Roger Bannister first flirted with, then broke the four-minute mile.

Experts had said for years that it couldn’t be done, but if Bannister was to compete against current record holder Hicham el Guerrouj, he would trail in over 100 metres behind. The slender Moroccan ran the mile in 3:43:13 20 years ago and it is now one of the longest standing athletic records, although the event is rarely run, having long been superceded by the metric 1,500 metres.

Kenyan Eliud Kipchoge defied almost all scientific prediction in October when in a highly orchestrated run he became the first person to run the marathon (26.2 miles) in under two hours.

His 1:59.40 was nearly an hour faster than the first official record of American Johnny Hayes (2:55.18) – and considerably swifter than the soldier Pheidippides who, legend has it, ran from a battlefield near the town of Marathon in Greece to Athens in 490 BC to announce the defeat of the Persians.

Not quite the model of a modern day Olympian, he covered the distance in six hours before croaking “victory”, then pitched over and died.

Back to the rugby world cup.

I was watching the opening game of the 1995 competition with my girlfriend at a pub in London when South Africa were allowed into the tournament for the first time having finally scrapped apartheid. I’d had a rumbling stomach for a few days, which wasn’t helped by me leaping up every time the Springboks scored.

After the final whistle went, she dragged me to a clinic in our office where the nurse took one look at me and sent me directly off to London Bridge Hospital – an exclusive private establishment with rooms, as plush as any hotel, overlooking the Thames.

There I was examined and informed my appendix had burst, and rushed swiftly into surgery.

In the recovery that followed, the woman who was to become my wife – and then my ex-wife – helped nurse me back to health. In that time we watched a lot of rugby, and I’m proud to say I instilled in her a love for the game that has endured.

We were living in Kenya in 1999 and watched New Zealand thrash France in the first half of their semi-final. Thinking the game all but over, we drove from Naivasha to Nairobi to catch the last 15 minutes and witness one of the most remarkable comebacks of all time as French took victory. The 2003 tournament was another shared event, before we sadly went our separate ways.

After we watched a couple of games in the latest edition of the tournament, my ex returned to London but on the day of the final I received a text message from her saying she was watching in that same 1999 pub with friends – as I was, thousands of miles away.

Accompanying the text was a picture, her modest frame standing out from a burly crowd of white-clad England supporters.

She was wearing the same Springbok shirt I had bought her a quarter of a century ago.

Forget love, it’s sport that lasts forever.

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yak fashion Photographer: Katrin Niyati (Kateryna Morozova) Stylist: Angie Anggoro MUA: Ariya Gunawan model: victoria carvalho, merry models location: cafe del mar bali 90

left and Right: KimOno Mauricio Alpizar - art work by Irene Hoff.

Jewelry Jypsy Belles.

Shoes by Zara.

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yak fashion

jumpsuit by Mauricio Alpizar - art work by Irene Hoff. Jewelry Anna Michelian. Shoes by Zara. hat by hithat premium.

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kimono by Mauricio Alpizar art work by Irene Hoff. Jewelry Anna Michelian.

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yak fashion

KimOno Mauricio Alpizar - art work by Irene Hoff. Jewelry Anna Michelian.

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KimOno Mauricio Alpizar - art work by Irene Hoff. Jewelry Jypsy Belles.

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Elevating The Cocktail Experience.

They say there is nothing new in this world. Like music, fashion and food our tastes evolve yet with time, everything old becomes new again. The cocktail is back in fashion and the mixologist is no longer the guy who simply takes your order. His role is elevated to near celebrity as he switches it up, adapts his flavour bases, infuses his spirits, deconstructs the classics and puts them back together in surprising new ways. All to seduce us into ordering again. Often working with chefs to play off the menu, much as the sommelier will do with his wine pairing, modern cocktails mix and mingle, shining a light on often complex botanical flavours. With or without food, there are some amazing cocktails on our menu these days and we are excited to present some of our favourites.

Sake no Hana.

Brainchild of famous restaurateur, Alan Yau, Sake no Hana brings us an elevated dining experience that has the hallmarks of Japanese cuisine, with a hint of its birthplace in London’s Mayfair and all the mystery of Bali’s exotic local ingredients.

The cocktail menu never takes second place, rather it is front and centre. Created with a mix of chemistry and intuition, the chef and the mixologist spend endless hours in their “lab” creating a match made in culinary heaven.

Local mixologist Haris has spent years on the competition circuit before making his soft landing in this elevated modern dining room.

The cocktails were great before, they are even better now. Playing on nature, my first cocktail spins a tale of a magical garden. The glassware is unusual, the edible flowers as fresh as first picked and the flavours are as perfectly balanced as a geisha. From infused arak, to smoked and blended Japanese whiskies, sake, local spices from ginger to pandan, all mixed and mingled perfectly to

a refined flourish. Creativity comes naturally to this team and every ingredient is hand-picked for its character and then finely tuned to its most flavourful. Cocktails are an experience at Sake no Hana. Cocktails are all priced at Rp175K. Recommended are: Myuga - made with Arak Bali infused with Honje & Coconut flakes, Clarified Pineapple juice infused with Javanese chili pepper, lemongrass syrup, lemon juice, Campari and tonic water. Tasting notes: savory with a spicy aftertaste, fresh floral with an herbal aroma.

Umami - Made with: Ketel One vodka, House Spiced Mix, Saline Solution, Clarified Lime Juice, Nori Vermouth. An edgy interpretation on the classic Bloody Mary cocktail. Tasting notes: savory, a distinctive vegetable taste, perfect for food pairing.

Omnia.

The grand staircase that connects Sake no Hana to the glittering day club Omnia below, is a destination in itself, allowing guests to enjoy the best of both. Sake and Sounds from 8pm on Saturday and Sunday is a cocktail experience that is set to music. Once you descend to Omnia the cocktails are designed for “maximum impact”. Few people according to Marketing Man, Swen De Ruyter, order classic mixes like bourbon and coke, rather it is bottle service for the luxe guest or slam down cocktails that are mixed with precision to enhance. While some guests enjoy the “accessible luxury” package, which includes free entry, free seating and a poolside day at prices that compare favourably with other beach clubs, few can resist the allure of at least one or two of these refreshing cocktails at the 21+ Beach club (yep, no kids allowed). Sipping a cocktail is best enjoyed under the sparkling signature cube, watching the

mixologists at work in their square cliff-hanging bar. Local ingredients take on a special shine when mixed with premium spirits, house-made infusions and plenty of showmanship, each one finished with edible garnishes and served up in creative glassware.

Recommended: Rock Pearl - Belvedere Vodka, Raspberry, Martini Bianco, Lemon, Elderflower, Tonic Smoky Passion - Captain Morgan Rum, smoked arak, lemon, passionfruit, whisky essence.

ONEEIGHTY° AT THE EDGE. This has to be one of the world’s most spectacular locations in which to sip cocktails with a view.

Think 150 metres above the ocean on a limestone cliff face with a glass bottom pool that juts out more than five metres into thin air. This is more than an infinity pool. Catch a view of passing turtles and dugongs from the clear floors that take in the panorama from the bar. Oneeighty° has to be experienced to be believed. Cocktails here are a celebration of the stylish classic libations enjoyed by the global jet set that frequent this chic destination. From the perfectly proportioned gin and tonic on the all-day menu to the sunset cocktails for after five that includes delicious elderflower martinis, cliff top mules with a minty spin on the traditional and a light hearted ‘infinity’ that blends prosecco with strawberry liquor and fresh berries. The espresso martini is created from cold brew coffee and mixed with vodka, Kahlua and crème de cacao. Exotic fruit are generously used to brighten up quality sprits to add destination to your drinks. The passionfruit frozen margarita is a thirst quencher while the yuzu crush is as unique as it is tasty. Arrive at 11am when the cliff club opens to the public and pull up a sunbed, then luxuriate in classic beachside dining with a cocktail menu that trapezes

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taken not stirred

mix it up at (left to right): w bali, sake no hana and the edge.

through ‘tiki’, ‘classics with a twist’, ‘frozen’, ‘jugs’ and the signature collection that has been carefully curated to reflect long Bali days in one of the most beautiful locations in the world.

Recommended: Mr Hendricks – a cucumber infused gin blended with traditional tonic water and lemon with a flourish of rosemary.

Elderflower martini ¬– gin, sake, wasabi, cucumber, elderflower, lime.

Tropicola.

Like an icy pole on a steamy day, Tropicola is a riot of colour and full of fun. The sea-side pool club on Batubelig beach hosts a pool party every single day. Tropicola’s ethos is work hard, play hard and have as much fun as is humanly possible. To do that you’ll need fuel and the menu has been curated to feed both body and soul. While the food menu travels from vibrant poke bowls for enjoying around the pool to gourmet seafood, grill-licked classics and gourmet hot dogs, the cocktail menu

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is based on freshly juiced veggies and fruit, so they’re almost guilt free. Built along the lines of some of the great retro pool experiences, Tropicola is designed to ‘pop’ on every level. Here you can choose your base and then add the alcohol of your choice, or not, as the feeling and the occasion strikes you. With veteran bar, restaurant and party man, Adrian Reed (Ado), calling the shots (literally), the venue overflows with infectious energy. It’s the people, the music, the venue and yep, the drinks.

You can start early and slide into the day as the music builds and the icy, fruity cocktails build to a sunset crescendo. Dive in, don’t wait.

Recommended: Margarita Verde Freezie – tequila, celery juice, cucumber, elderflower.

stands up for sunset. The mixology team here always have something new on the menu and the current list is as wow as we have come to expect. As always, W has added a new twist to their cocktail menu which puts you behind the bar. Mix It Up is your chance to get creative with a private mixology session, which includes mastering some of their best sellers. The sessions includes 3 cocktails (which you help create) and signature nibbles. Priced at 450K per person, what better souvenir to bring home than three crafted cocktails from your holiday.? Of course, Woobar offers full service for those who would rather recline on a day bed and soak up the sun. With witty selections like their Balinese Ritual, Paint Your Life or the Green Light inspired by a popular Indonesian dessert, a full menu of classics and signature cocktails put the woo in W.

No. 7 – berry vodka, strawberry, ginger, pilsner.

Recommended: Balinese Ritual - Gin, homemade tangerine & elderflower liqueur, dry vermouth, holy essence Putting the woo in W. Known for its playful personality, vibrant and upbeat soundtracks and incredible seaside location, Woobar is a day to night venue that

Paint Your Life - vodka, lemongrass, green Balinese herbs, lemon, vegan foam.

taken not stirred

stephanie mee flits back in time to the roaring twenties as she imbibes elixirs at ubud's renowned ApĂŠritif.

colonial interiors (page right) are matched by post prohibition tipples at ApĂŠritif.

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Destination dining is easy to come by in Bali, but destination drinking? That’s a whole other story. Apéritif is Ubud’s newest fine dining restaurant and bar, and it’s already setting the scene for a whole new tippling experience in Bali with opulent Art Deco vibes and innovative twists on classic cocktails.

Perched on the edge of a lush ravine in a striking white structure that evokes colonial grandeur, Apéritif is the latest addition to the award-winning Viceroy Bali. Step through the elegant glass doors and you find yourself in a grand space with gleaming black and white checkered floor tiles, supple leather armchairs, and huge arched windows that offer views over the junglecovered ravine.

To the right of the foyer is the main dining room with glittering chandeliers, a glass-enclosed wine cellar with over 180 labels, and an open kitchen where chef Nic Vanderbeeken and his team create contemporary dishes inspired by global cuisines. However, if it's libations you’re lusting after, make a beeline to the ornate wooden doors inlaid with mother-of-pearl to the left of the foyer.

Inspired by the Roaring Twenties, this whimsical watering hole would impress Gatsby himself. Dark green walls, gleaming copper and rich wood accents set the scene, luxurious leather armchairs and benches beckon, and a sunken C-shaped bar takes centre place.

Everywhere you look there are antiques and objets d’art dating back to the Jazz Age. Margaret Bainbridge is the managing director of the Viceroy and the creative force behind Apéritif’s unique architecture and interior design. She says, “With Apéritif I wanted to create something that hadn’t been done

in Bali before. Our villas take inspiration from Bali in the 1930s, so I wanted to expand on the colonial theme with a mix of Balinese and European elements.”

Everything about Apéritif was designed from scratch from the huge double-glazed windows that were imported from Italy to the leather armchairs handmade in Indonesia, and even the intricately patterned tiles that adorn the walls in the lavish bathrooms.

The fusion of East meets West can be seen in all around in items like the bone canes with Sanskrit inscriptions on the walls next to the billiards table, the antique fencing mask displayed on a wooden side table, and the brass scuba mask sitting under a wall of lockers that store premium bottles for patrons.

Margaret says, “While I had a clear vision of how I wanted the space to look, it really is ever-evolving. I’m constantly coming across items that would fit perfectly in the space and I can visualise exactly where I want them to go. When it comes to interior design, you’re never really finished decorating.”

Much like the décor, the cocktail programme also boasts a blend of Eastern and Western influences.

Designed by award-winning mixologist Ran Van Ongevalle, the enticing and reasonably priced drink list features playful takes on classic cocktails. Each elixir was inspired by the Roaring Twenties and is made with artisanal spirits and house infusions.

Take for example the Apéritif 75 made with a refreshing blend of Belvedere vodka, lychee, magnolia and lemon pith and Taittinger Brut Reserve. For something on the sweeter side, the After Prohibition features Bacardi Carta Blanca rum, banana liqueur, snake fruit shrub and orange bitters.

Head bartender Borty is a master at whipping up custom creations, so bespoke bevvies are also an option. Simply let Borty and his team know your preferred flavour profile, and they can concoct you the perfect cocktail made with your choice of spirits, house made syrups, fermented fruits and spices.

If fine wines are more your style, Apéritif has you covered with an extensive selection of champagne and wines by the glass. Cool off with a crisp Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand or go big and bold with a glass of Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from California. And if you’re celebrating a special occasion, a glass of Taittinger Brut Reserve is in order.

The bar at Apéritif opens at 4pm daily, which is the perfect time to grab a drink in the cool air-conditioned lounge and watch the sun slowly set over the rice paddies in front or snag a seat on the terrace overlooking the forested ravine and enjoy a scotch and cigar. After dark the bar transforms into a softly lit space where you can enjoy postprandial drinks and catch live jazz acts every Monday and Wednesday.

Keep an eye on the Apéritif website for upcoming events like cocktail showdowns with renowned mixologists from around the world, special dining events with guest chefs, and wine tastings. FYI for those of you who are planning holiday happenings – Apéritif will be hosting a divine 10-course degustation meal for New Year’s Eve. Spots are already getting snapped up, so book soon. www.aperitif.com

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taken not stirred

ondy sweeting enters the pleasure dome. images lucky 8.

gold standards.

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Legendary Ibiza beach club Café del Mar has thrown open its ultra glam archways to the hippest humans in town and is serving some of the island’s coolest cocktails.

rosella cordial, lychee liqueur and Red Bull. This tingly taste sensation unsurprisingly took out a gong at Red Bulls’ cocktail competition.

Internationally adored by lovers of house music and summer beats, Café del Mar Bali comes into its own as the sun sets into the Indian ocean along the Berawa coast.

Unique Indonesian ingredients have been integrated into the mixology and include the use of pandan – as in the Summer Nutter – that has a base of soursop juice paired with elderflower cordial, white rum, lemon juice and meyosi bark that is part of the cinnamon family.

Exotic libations set the scene along with café classics including mules and margaritas. Expect a del Mar move made on each and every offering. It could be anything from a dash of probiotic apple cider, apple compote or candied banana gin.

As the sun goes down the phantasmagoric beauty of Café del Mar’s design and architecture kicks in with curated lighting that assembles an ambience like no other. Pink and orange shards of light reflect from the sky onto the white canvaslike buildings and lighting angles are used by the in-house creatives to an almost hallucinogenic effect. Settle in and enjoy a show that lasts for about an hour as the famous sounds slowly increase in volume. This is what has made the franchise so profoundly successful.

Four thousand people can simultaneously immerse into the sensory dreamscape that is expertly transmitted into the zone.

According to the original Café del Mar founders Carlos Andrea, Jose Les and Ramon Guiral: "The best ideas are those which gather simple and universal concepts, such as enjoying a drink in a unique natural environment with music as a soundtrack of that special moment."

And given the concepts on the cocktail menu, the Bali operation has not strayed from the notions of the three founding fathers.

Four types of sangria – which is sold by the jug – include a bubbly version with sparkling wine, mango and citrus juices, passion fruit and vodka alongside more traditional white or red wine-based sangria. Another bespoke version includes tangerine, pomegranate and liquorice syrup to the mix of red wine and spiced rum.

The cocktail menu is sliced into four sections: Long & Fruity, Short & Intense, Long & Light and Blended & Frozen, which helps prevent overwhelm that may be experienced from being confronted by so many luscious sounding mixes.

Think of breakfast with a Morning Mango Colada with white Dominican rum, mango, fresh banana, lemon juice and ‘crazy coco mix’, a secret brew that the team will not reveal.

Those with a sweet tooth will enjoy the Red Candy from the Long & Fruity menu with its mash up of vodka, ginger,

Sunset Punch whips up red dragon fruit with soursop, spiced rum, dark rum, citrus juice and pineapple jam. This is a summer sunset winner.

As a nod to the spice trading past of Indonesia, the mix team at Café Del Mar Bali has created a Spice Route Sour that comprises bourbon, vodka spiced with salak or snake fruit, peach liqueur, liquorice syrup and lemon juice.

Spend a day in laid back luxury at Café del Mar Bali and you’ll find that Spain is never far away when it comes to the style and ambience of destination. Smooth white washed walls and sweeping arches crafted by architect Rafael Pasaribu and local firm Aboday Architects. Expect to experience Iberic, Hispania and Andalusian traditions pared down and teleported from the Mediterranean to the Indonesian archipelago.

Café del Mar Bali is heavily inspired by its Balearic island origins of white with blue accents that dominate everything from the architecture to pool pods, cabanas and the famed blue and white striped sail shades from the original club at Sant Antoni de Portmany in Ibiza. Once you are immersed into your spot by the 700 sq metre pool, you will not forget for a moment that you are at Café del Mar. Poolside dining has been thoughtfully drafted to keep guests satisfied on delicious delicacies including pizza topped with wild mushrooms, truffle, parmesan and parsley or larger plates filled with scotch fillet steak with Café de Bali butter and greens or a choice of tapas-style small plates with Moroccan lamb meatballs, local charcuterie, octopus in squid ink yoghurt and jackfruit sung choi bao, to name a few dishes. Burgers and fish and chips are also on the menu.

Grab one of 13 cabanas, three semi submersed pool pods, four sunset booths and swim-up bars, 58 sun loungers, 37 day beds or three deluxe suites that have their own pool for a superb day in the sun.

Major artists, international DJ’s and huge events will be part of the rotating line-up of entertainment for the fabled venue that is rapidly posting its imprint on the Bali beach club scene.

pop goes the weasel.

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brands

sarah douglas smashes the wine ceiling with A special range of reserveS.

top shelf.

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You’ve heard of the glass ceiling, mostly applied to women in business. I’ve arrived at Hatten Wines impressive Cellardoor and all the reasons why wine drinkers (and I) shun the local labels are flashing through my mind. I’m prepared to rethink it in this gleaming tower of brick and glass, where I’m meeting wine maker James Kalleske to learn more about the limited collection of black label Two Islands Reserve wines.

I don’t care for labels, know nothing of vintages, have never laid down a bottle or gone to a wine auction, I just know what I like. If it tastes good, and the price is right, I’ll buy it. I’m not sure if that makes me a wine snob or not, but as I walk through the door I can feel my mind changing, my resolve slipping, the ceiling cracking, so to speak.

The stunning, modern building that is Hatten’s public face, on the bypass in Sanur, says a whole lot about how far this company has come from its early days making brem and arak, before launching Hatten Rosé 25 years ago. It is still their best-selling wine.

I’m not here though to revisit history but rather to meet the winemaker who is charging forward with a premium range of Two Islands wines bottled under the sophisticated black label.

It was by chance that I was served a sparkling wine that turned my head. Part of the wine pairing dinner at the beautiful modern seafood restaurant, Uni, our first course of sliced, cured scallops was served with an incredible, complex, dry sparkling wine and I had to ask where it was from. Somewhat reluctantly (snob value people), partner and designer of this list, Nicolas Lento, informed us it was Two Islands. I nearly fell off my designer chair. Wow. “The reserve range came about after a discussion with the Viceroy Resort in Ubud," explains James. “They needed a quality house wine suitable to serve to their five-star guests. At first we did it to prove we could, but it has proved so popular we’ve kept improving it and expanding the range.” There are now two beautiful Barossa-style reds, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, a Chardonnay and the sparkling in the range.

Two Islands is produced exclusively from South Australian grapes. The grapes are juiced and frozen before being flown to Bali for fermentation and bottling. The Reserve range is a step up again, using single origin grapes from hand-picked vineyards in South Australia. This is a far more difficult task than blended wines as the winemaker has to rely solely on the quality of a single vineyard.

“I travel two or three times a year to visit vineyards and select the grapes myself. It’s an evolution and a lot

depends on this. I’ve made a lot of changes since I’ve been here and I think it shows in the quality and the taste,” explains James. The Barossa Valley native grew up in wine country, his mother a lecturer and his father a vigneron, yet he was initially reluctant to make a career in the industry.

“It really felt too predictable at first, so I travelled, worked in other industries before returning to my roots, and here I am. Joining Hatten almost six years ago, James has put his own stamp on the entire range from Hatten’s home grown range to the Two Islands wines, and there is still a lot of research and development going on. Hatten’s has always been made with local grapes, basically table grapes, but after trialling over 50 varieties of international varieties, they have found five which will grow successfully here including Shiraz and Chenin Blanc.

These locally grown wines will launch next year along with a new winery with restaurants and tasting rooms on a beautiful property near Keramas.

Two Islands white label has continued to evolve and last year they launched the first Rosé made with imported grapes, a huge success with beach clubs and restaurants. All the sparkling wines are produced using the tradition champenoise method, which means a second fermentation takes place in the bottle. Two Islands wines are all bottle-aged before release.

The Reserve range is sold exclusively to resorts, hotels and restaurants, although you can buy them direct from the Cellardoor. They aren’t budget wines, but James points out that similar single origin wines of this quality will set you back far more in Australia.

The Cellardoor is a great place to try all these wines, and I am betting that many of the wine snobs among you will change your minds once you’ve tried the most recent varieties, in both the white and black label ranges. It certainly changed my mind, as my memory does track back to the launch of Hatten, and it’s not easy to part with prejudices carved by time.

James knows this and he shrugs it off. Especially as more chefs and Food and Beverage managers from Bali’s most prestigious restaurants and resorts are coming on board.

The challenge to meet their demands is something this winemaker is clearly ready and able to meet. In fact, you can tell he is loving it.

Harking back to the complex, beautifully beaded sparkling wine that brought me on this quest, James says Nicolas Lento, a partner in Uni and F&B Manager of the Mexicola group has come back to him with yet another request. This time it is natural wines, a passion of Nicolas’ that is playing out at Da Maria and at Uni. Pét-Nat is the

term that refers to these wines. “Natural wines are a challenge and a bit of a misnomer,” explains James. Most wines are natural but the yeasts used in winemaking are refined in a lab. James currently uses five yeast varieties which he imports. Each produces different characteristics and an experienced winemaker knows his yeast. Natural wines rely on the wild yeast produced by fermentation and are therefore much more unpredictable.

James says he has many requests for project wines and mostly he refuses as they aren’t commercially viable. This one he’s decided is a passion project he’d like to tackle, “just to show we can’” he laughs.

While having this chat, we’ve compared the white label and the black. Enjoyed a vertical tasting of the Reserve Shiraz (which is impressive), from the latest batch all the way back to 2015 when he first started producing it (the 2015 being sold now is a beautiful, smooth wine with lots of fruit).

We’ve been through the sparkling ranges, and I am still unwavering in my admiration of the Reserve sparkling, a mix of pinot noir and chardonnay grapes. Five years in the production, it’s toasty, with a fine bead, a beautiful colour and a sophisticated dry finish.

The tasting room is open to the public, so if you’re sceptical, like I was, make an appointment and come in to try the full range. Take it a step further and book a lunch or dinner in the private dining room upstairs, complete with a chef and talented kitchen team. Groups from 8-14 people choose their wines first in the tasting room before heading up to pair their wines with a choice of menus.

Our chat, and it’s been a long one, finishes with one final glass of the sparkling that prompted this story. It’s the perfect ending to a fascinating journey through this local winery. The next time I ask what the house wine is, and the waiter replies, ‘it’s Two Islands’, I’m going to think twice about reaching for the wine list. Especially if it is one of their reserve wines, although I will admit, some of the wines in the white range were good enough to turn this wine snob into a convert.

Tip: I’m usually a pinot noir drinker, and have found the wine inconsistent. James suggests waiting until next year as he has chosen a new vineyard to supply the grapes and promises great things. Done! www.twoislands.co.id www.hattenwines.com

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oral pleasures queen's tandoor is a milestone in bali's indian cuisine scene, writes karen donald. Images: lucky 8

flavours of the sub continent.

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Queen's Tandoor is a leading chain of Indian restaurants specializing in the authentic and varied cuisines of the Indian sub-continent. Their four restaurants are the longest serving and best-loved Indian restaurants in Bali, offering customers a range of traditional dishes such as mouthwatering Butter Chicken, as well as fusion cooking with Italian, and Japanese cuisine.

Each dish is lovingly prepared by Indian chefs, using only the best quality ingredients and the freshest vegetables, presenting Indian cuisine with a modern twist. If you haven’t experienced Indian molecular gastronomy yet, here’s where you should be heading for your wedding or private event.

The Royal Queen's story goes back to Jakarta, when Mr Ramesh and Mrs Sarita created their chain of restaurants.

During the partition of India in the late 1940s Ramesh came to Jakarta from the Province of Sindh. The couple decided to go into the restaurant business, and in 1986 they opened Queen’s of India at the Sunlake Hotel in North Jakarta.

During 2004 they joined forces with Puneet and Neeta Malhotra, who played an important role in business expansion by opening a Queen’s Indian Restaurant in Bali.

When Queen's started working together with the Ministry of Tourism in late 2006 their first sales mission was to attract new Indian tourists to Bali with unique ideas and different ways of serving the popular cuisine.

Queen's was the first to serve Mumbai street food, collaborating with businesses offering watersports, serving themed food at barbeques on Jimbaran Beach and other locations to break the monotone of classical Indian cuisine.

Now Indian tourists are the third biggest traveller to Bali, thanks to Queen's and their non-stop efforts to offer a new style of catering to groups here.

Opening their doors to Indian weddings, Puneet and Neeta have attracted many non resident Indians from all over the world including Singapore, Hong Kong and Dubai, Queen's offers a unique menu combining Italian and Indian cuisine, Indian and Japanese, Indian-Asian, Indian and Mediterranean and molecular fusion. Indian spices are added to pasta sauces to provide an extra kick and calzones are made with Indian cheeses and served with a spicy mango and mint sauce. Popular items on the catering menu are ‘Nannchos’, an Indian take on nachos that substitute the flatbread for tortilla chips.

Molecular Gastronomy at Queen's arrived with a big bang over the last five years. Their Molecular Chaat is an exciting experience for diners, consisting of spheres filled with various liquids, sauces, dips, and flavours ranging from Chai to Lassi.

Enjoy dishes such as the dessert Garam Masala with Chili Infused Chocolate Mousse. Poached Pears, Nitrogen Kulfi, Kahlua-infused Biryani, Arugula Bhel, Jalebi Caviar, Chicken Tikka, topped with Passion Fruit Caviar, Basmati Rissoto with Chaat Masala Sphere, Jalebi-Covered Rabri dipped in Pop Rocks, Achari Fish Tikka presented with Pomegranate Cream are all to be savoured. Not forgetting Herb Crusted Paneer Tikka – where flavours are mesmerizing and a little bit spicy.

The soft, juicy Rasmalai has chopped pasta with rose petals inside. Sample Masala Jackfruit Cigars, Raj Kachori with Tamarind Sauce Foam, China Grass Burfi, Honey Peanut Butter Kulfi Popsicle, Blue Cheese Naan, assorted Indian Sorbet, and so much more.

Still available is the traditional cuisine started by Queen's back in 1986, with classic Indian dishes including vegetarian Paneer Tikka with Mint Chutney and Chicken Hydrabadi, cooked in spinach with several hot spices. The specialty of Kashmir, Rogan Josh, is served in the traditional way, with saffron and yoghurt, and for dessert, tempting Sizzling Brownies are presented on a hot plate, topped with vanilla ice cream and hot dark chocolate, alongside sinfully sweet Falooda: a long cool drink of milk, sherbet and ice cream.

Located in the heart of Seminyak, the original Queen’s Tandoor has flourished opening additional branches. The Queen’s of India at the Bali Dynasty Resort, Kuta, Queen’s of India at Tanjung Benoa, and Queen’s of India, Ubud: ensuring that Queen’s is represented at key locations in all of the major tourist areas of Bali.

Many restaurants in Bali come and go but Queen’s Tandoor has remained the same comfortable, trustworthy establishment since opening its doors in 1986. Every dish retains authentic characteristics of Indian home cooking.

This may be the reason why loyal customers keep on coming back for more: to participate in a sensory journey and taste the spirit of Indian cuisine. www.queenstandoor.com

queensbury rules.

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oral pleasures

a new chef plans ahead for A la favela future, where sarah douglas finds a pandora's box of bespoke interiors.

It is this Seminyak hotspot where it all began for the creative husband and wife team behind La Favela.

Gonzalo and Sandra Assiego found a rundown old building on Oberoi Road and rather than walking away, as many people would have, they envisioned a venue that embraced all the things they loved. It took two years to create the magical wonderland that now houses a thriving garden restaurant, two bars, an afterhours eating spot and a nightclub that sees hundreds of people line up every night for a party that defines Seminyak nightlife.

Sandra is quoted as saying their initial inspiration, “…was a rooftop bar with a Brazilian favela vibe. With laundry strung from building to building, fire pits and the smell of barbecue floating on the breeze. This combined with my immersion into the early ‘90s New York and London underground arts scene to create the kind of nightlife I enjoy.” From there it grew, and grew.

Today, the company, LYD Group, has opened a string of venues including La Plancha, La Laguna and La Brisa. Each is a study in sustainable architecture with almost every feature of the buildings created using recycled materials, items they have found, purchased or collected on their travels. La Favela is awash with recycled wood, old terraces, bric-a-brac from old TVs to art. Tables and chairs are mixed and matched, architectural elements have been salvaged and given new life, and it all comes together in the most incredible way.

Walking into La Favela early in the evening is a revelation. While much is written about the nightclub, the pair have always had a firm focus on food as well as creating magical spaces. On an average night over 200 people sit down to eat, spread out amongst the menagerie of moods, a Pandora’s box of collectibles, a series of spaces that lead from one to another, each with its own atmosphere. It’s irresistible.

Charged with taking La Favela’s menu to the next level,

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after their former long-time chef left the building, is Spanish Chef Federico Osorio. On sabbatical after years working in Australia, his plan was to spend the next five years cooking and sailing the world, until this opportunity came up and his heart said yes!

“I love this existing menu and the Spanish-inspired theme will stay. After working in Australia, in wineries and with my own business, my plan is to take the menu lighter, add more vegetarian options and introduce some healthier cooking methods to the kitchen,” he explains.

His plan is bring some modern Australian cooking methods to the kitchen, and “add vegetarian dishes that are far from boring. I think people are eating this way more and more and I want La Favela to reflect that.”

His first task is creating the menus for the Christmas week, culminating in a New Year’s Eve dinner, before launching his new menus early next year.

Meanwhile, we sit down in the fairy-tale garden to sample what’s on this current menu. It’s a sophisticated mix of Latin dishes created by their Mexican chef, designed to meet the heat of the tropics.

We begin on this humid evening with a beautifully simple beef carpaccio, fragrant with truffle cream, sweet balsamic, slivers of parmesan, fresh peppery rucola and crisp sourdough toast. It’s light, tasty and perfect for a starlit night under the palm trees.

Next up is a fresh tuna tiradito, a Peruvian-inspired dish that is artfully served with slices of raw tuna dressed with coriander, sesame, avocado, lemon and papaya, with a biting chipotle mayonnaise. The tuna is fresh, the cool slices of raw fish play off beautifully with the spice of the chipotle.

Our third dish is a mouthful. It’s gorgeous and it’s rich.

Queso fundido is served in a wrought iron pot, filled with melted mozzarella spiked with flavourful chorizo

and served with flour tortillas, avocado and pico de gallo. It feels a little sinful, and it is, but it’s also delicious.

Roll it all up in the freshly made tortilla and add the sauce of choice and forget the diet, it’s a delicious dish.

Perusing the garden with a chilled pinot noir, we’ve crossed a bridge that exists in more than a literal sense.

At 2am in the morning, with a throng of people in full party mode, it’s hard to imagine that hours earlier this space was dedicated to good food, conversation and tables filled with couples, families and groups of friends.

It’s a metamorphosis that stuns me every time I walk in.

La Favela may have started as a street party but it continues to evolve and grow, and it’s not only the restaurant. The garden has been miraculously extended.

A rooftop terrace overlooks it all, atmospheric private rooms stretch seemingly endlessly into the garden.

Waterfalls flow, more bars are discovered and the oasis behind La Favela grows ever more interesting.

On the third floor, the former attic, the dedicated cocktail bar Attika is a speakeasy bar that welcomes early arrivals and party folk who are craving a different beat and more sophisticated cocktails. With its own dedicated entrance, it’s yet another space that seems to appear as if by magic. The second level, formerly an extension of the dining room, has now been transformed into a late-night street eats space, Sao Paolo, where party people can grab some sustenance before heading home, or to after parties of their own.

Little has been left to chance in La Favela and it takes a dedicated team to pull off this nightly event. From the chefs, under the guidance of the fresh-faced Federico, to an army of bar staff, floor staff, events people, DJs and management that keep the whole thing running.

Change is something that La Favela adapts to on a nightly basis and this team are continuing to find new ways to invite both residents and travellers to walk up that dimly lit path into their world. www. lafavelabali.com

Entranced by La Favela.

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oral pleasures sensational pizzas and a modern retro interior – awesomeness from flat stanley.

Despite recent reports that the world is in fact flat, most of us agree, it isn’t. Neither is Flat Stanley. The hip eatery in Seminyak’s Petitenget Street turns the world of pizza on its head and it lands oblong, full of crusty peaks, unexpected ingredients, local flavours made international and overflowing with personality.

Head Chef Matt White is a Seattle native who has arrived on our shores via Singapore. His distinctive pizzas are not the only thing that don’t conform. He takes a traditional Naples-style pizza, adds a San Francisco accent with his sourdough base and is convinced the tomatoes from the Modesto in the heart of California’s wine district are the bomb. He’s so committed to these tomatoes he imported a container full.

It’s this kind of passion that makes Flat Stanley a restaurant that is more than a sum of its parts. Matt is the glue that binds it all together, and you’ll likely meet him just moments after you’re seated. He’s not a chef to hide behind his oven, he’s on the floor, finding out what you like, where you’re from, offering to adapt his recipes for vegans, sharing his favourites and making sure you have a drink.

Originally positioned next door to Pontiac Stardust, the since closed cocktail bar, Flat Stanley has now taken over the entire space. Cocktails are still in the DNA of this group and the investors behind restaurants and bars across Singapore and Hong Kong have plenty of guest appearances on the calendar, so never fear, a cocktail is never far away.

What this means for Flat Stanley is there’s room to grow.

A bigger menu and a bigger, better wine list are already being offered. Steaks, imported from the USA, grass fed, juicy, flavourful steaks are proving almost as popular as the pizzas, but that’s not all.

Vegetable lovers will adore some of their small plates. Dinosaur kale is a fresh salad mixed up with mango lemon vinaigrette, red cabbage and sweet medjool dates; roasted cauliflower is spiked with romesco sauce and tahini; wild mushrooms are delicious with roasted garlic and charcoal sea salt, while salt roasted beets are in their element with whipped feta and heirloom radish. A hybrid of a local favourite comes in the form of a cali (cauliflower) goreng with garlic prawns, soffrito and an organic fried egg.

“Wherever possible I reach for local ingredients,” explains the entertaining chef. “I use local flour for the pizza bases, which are twice fermented for flavour and structure. I have found a great local mozzarella and a really good vegan mozzarella. Most of our

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vegetables are local, organic where possible, and they are given every bit as much love as our pizzas and meat dishes.”

Ah, meat. If you love a good steak, you are on to a good thing here. The steaks are all premium grade Black Angus beef, a choice of tenderloin or rib eye. The strapping cows are grass fed for 300 days before switching to a diet of corn to add flavour. You really don’t need to do a lot to a great steak, and Matt lets the quality of the meat shine through.

We really do need to talk about the pizzas though. This is where Flat Stanley began and it’s very hard to pass on one of these crisp, charred, bubbling beauties. The margarita is outstanding, although on this menu it’s a mozzarella pizza (very Californian!) and it is from here that the pizza story begins. Quite why they are oblong remains a mystery but they fit perfectly on the wooden boards. I am not to wonder why, simply eat them, because they are deliriously good. (yes, I’m a pizza lover, isn’t everyone?).

While a self-confessed purist, I have a sweet spot for the truffle pizza, and the fragrant truffle reaches me before my pie does.

It’s tossed with a mixture of fresh mushrooms on top of crushed tomatoes and topped with tasty fontina cheese. It’s a winner. Mind you, the peppered salami has bite and personality and should not be overlooked. Topped with finely sliced red onions, it’s big on taste.

Other flavours include short rib meatballs with a white sauce, cherry tomatoes and tasty cheddar, there’s a kale and pumpkin for veggie lovers and lots more. Vegans can replace the cheese in any pizza for a delicious vegan option. Matt has a vegan sister so he’s very attentive to vegans, my vegan daughter declared her kale and pumpkin pizza delicious, and she is famously fussy. There wasn’t a crust left.

Small eaters, and kids, are also generously taken care of with single serve pizzas and favourites like Mac and Cheese and hot dogs. Special nights are also on the menu with Crafty Crust Wednesdays with the highlight on craft beers, happy hours every day from 4-6pm and Flat Stan’s Jam nights every Saturday with jazzy vocals and feel good tracks. Flat Stanley doesn’t play by the rules but that makes it fun, delicious and well worth dropping in.

Check it out. S.D. www.flatstanleypizza.com

california dreaming at flat stanley. images: lucky 8.

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oral pleasures Luiz Sanchez meets the man behind bali's pioneering cold-pressed juice craze.

juiced at beach garden.

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Cold-pressed juicing has become a big business over the past decade. As more and more celebrities have endorsed the practice juicing has boomed, spreading across every major metropolitan area like wildfire. One of its early pioneers in the New York scene was Mark Baker, who opened the wildly successful company The Juice Press in New York some eight years ago. Mark has worked tirelessly over the past three years to bring juicing to Bali, with the inauguration of In the Raw Juice Labs this past November.

Baker first brought juicing to Canggu in 2015 when he opened In the Raw Juice Bar in Batu Bolong. He has since expanded the brand into the iconic Beach Garden In the Raw. “People are now more open to the health benefits that cold-pressed juices and the raw movement can provide,” he said. “Over the past five years Canggu has continued to grow exponentially, and healthy eating and juicing has exploded. Canggu is no longer a backpacker destination; it has evolved into the premier foodie destination in Bali, particularly for healthy foods.”

For The Love Of Juice Juicing can have tremendous health benefits, which Mark Baker takes very seriously, showing us the state of the art equipment used by the lab to ensure their products are clean, the environment sterile and as much of the good stuff extracted from the produce as possible. “We are not just talking about healthy drinks packed with vitamins and fiber,” he explains. “There are also so many medical applications here to consider. We want to expand our product line to include things like charcoal, which has been proven to help with sickness like mild food poisoning, dengue buster juices to help with recovery, and of course ingredients like turmeric which have long been known to have anti-inflammatory properties.”

This move towards a more natural way of dealing with common ailments and illness is steadily becoming more and more popular as we realize the detrimental effects over-prescribing medication has had on our bodies, and is something Mark and his team are keen to explore and promote.

Beyond Eco-Friendly In the Raw is also going above and beyond their commitment to the environment, using glass bottles which they recycle, and eliminating plastic from their environment. They are also committed to being as ethical as possible. “We work directly with the farmers, who deliver their products to us themselves, thus eliminating middle men and ensuring they receive the fairest prices possible for their work,” he says. “We want to make this company as eco-friendly and ethical as humanly possible.”

Assembling The A-team Over the past two years Mark has worked tirelessly scouting

the island for the best organic farmers and hiring dedicated, passionate, and professional people who share in his vision and passion. “We have established a network of organic farmers in Bali who grow all our produce and deliver to us the best fresh, crisp, and clean ingredients daily,” he explains.

This is no small feat, and is only the beginning. Mark also brought onboard Ronald Junior, a young, and talented chef from Brazil who has been called in to revamp Beach Garden’s menu and is the visionary behind In the Raw’s menu.

Meet The Alchemist Junior brings with him a wealth of knowledge around South American ingredients that are often not seen abroad. Aside from the popular açai berry, Junior has introduced other exotic products such as acerola, cupuaçu, and camu camu, which has really set their juices apart from local competitors. He is, in a sense, their alchemist.

“I love creating something out of nothing,” Junior told me. “Give me a random number of ingredients and I will gladly create a bunch of new dishes out of them.” Junior and Mark have set high standards for quality and hygiene. “We do not want agrotoxins and other contaminants in our foods. I am putting my reputation on the line because I believe in what we are doing here and I would rather tell our customers that we have run out of something than serve anyone something that is sub-par.”

Junior began his career in Rio de Janeiro, where he owned a kitchen outlet store and taught culinary classes. He also studied in France under Alain DuCasse, and travelled around Europe giving workshops at different restaurants. The pair sealed their collaboration when the former head chef of Beach Garden moved on, offering Junior an opportunity to impress. Together they have put the restaurant and juice brand firmly on the Canggu map.

The Future Is Now Having opened the flagship juice bar in the heart of Canggu, Mark Baker has set his sights on opening numerous pop-up stores across the island. “The next step is to open a new juice lab in Ubud followed by Berawa, as well as one in a new luxury project in Seminyak, and eventually Uluwatu will follow,” he says.

Keep an eye on these guys, as they are sure to shape the future of Bali’s culinary and healthy-living culture. We can expect several pop-up juice bars to follow in their wake as more and more people wake up to the benefits or healthy living and coldpressed juicing. The future looks bright: raw and organic. www.intherawbali.com

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big six

catering celebrations large and small

Got a few friends coming over, or a few hundred? No matter what kind of event you’re planning, there is a catering company in Bali to match. From cocktails to formal dinners and everything in between, there’s no need to spend your day in the kitchen; relax, create a playlist and let the professionals do the work. You might even discover it’s cheaper to call it in. Enjoy your day, your way.

Call The Bartender: Elite Bar Solutions The absolutely easiest way to impress your guests with a fabulous cocktail party is to call in Elite Bar Solutions. You’ll never run out of ice, limes, glasses … and everything is as easy as a phone call. By the team behind 40 Thieves and El Nacional, Elite Bar Solutions has a hit list of classic and curated cocktails guaranteed to get the party started. Wine, beer, spirits and all the accessories come with bartending staff who are not only well versed in cocktails, they are also as charming as they come. From informal gatherings to celebrations, weddings and parties of all shapes and sizes, working with your budget and your venue is part of the service. Let your hair down and enjoy your own party, pick up all the compliments and make it look as easy as, because it is. Elite Bar Solutions cater from 10 people to large gatherings.

FB: @EliteBarSolutions

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glittering events. No matter how large or small your party is, they have a menu to match. The team is also behind the incredible menus at Waterbom, where the food is a whole lot better than you expect at a waterpark. They are the reason why.

Tel. (0361) 763143 www.mnm-concepts.com French Kissing: Bali Catering Company Bali Catering Company was created by the owners of Metis Restaurant, which gives you a little indication of the kind of catering you can expect. From takeaway menus for simple soirées to fully catered events, these guys do the lot. Phone ahead to order lasagnas, main courses like their beef bourgignon desserts or nibbles and finish it up yourself at home. You can even be cheeky and claim it as yours! This is catering the easy way. For big events, festive menus or canapés, Bali Catering Company do it all and they are always ahead of every celebration with updated menus created each year. Take all the hassle out of partying with Bali Catering Company and their Gourmet Shops. Party menus for 10 start at IDR3.8 million while dinner for four starts at just IDR1.5 million.

Tel. (0361) 4737324 www.balicateringcompany.com

Invite The Italian: Cibo Bali Everyone loves Italian, and Cibo is great place to start. Chef Diego Martinelli has given up the five-star life and opened his chic little neighbourhood Italian eatery in Berawa.

From family dinners (think fresh pasta and home-made sauces) to celebrations with an Italian twist, Cibo makes it easy. Festive menus are full of gourmet dishes including home-made canapés, slow braises that heat up effortlessly, lots of fresh salads and sides, celebration cakes, festive panettone, and home-style desserts. Your family and friends will love the made-from-scratch approach and you get to play the calm, cool host with the most. Cibo prides itself on personal service, so head in for a tasting and a chat and have everything delivered to your door. Gourmet Italian has never been easier.

FB: @cibobali

Dial Up: Locavore Considered one of Bali’s best restaurants, the team at Locavore can also cater your event with food that will thrill from beginning to end. From an intimate sit-down dinner to gourmet barbecues to a food truck experience, the Locavore team make everything in-house from their gourmet sausages to incredible charcuterie and local cheeses to a whole babi guling or even a food truck experience. The Locavore To Go team whips up succulent burgers, pulled pork sandwiches, spit roasts and other casual fare at your home, party or workplace. Order away or drop by their shops to pick up an amazing array of goodies that guarantee you’ll be the talk of the town.

Every feast begins with fabulous ingredients and they don’t get better than this.

Festive menus, celebration packages and more are a phone call away, all you need do is dial and enjoy, the rest is easy.

Tel. (0361) 9080757 www.locavore.co.id

Impress Your Friends: M&M Catering M&M Catering is one of the island’s best. From a small gathering to large weddings, they have been catering in Bali for over 20 years. With a team led by former Hyatt F&B Director, Micheal Szarata, and bona-fide French chef to the stars, Francois Seurin, these guys are pure class. The team works out of a kitchen behind Waterbom, where they update their recipes regularly, create innovative solutions for every request and can transport an entire kitchen to the event. From cake pops to degustation dinners, from hot and cold canapés designed for visual impact to be eaten with ease to portable food stalls set up in your garden, M&M are behind many of Bali’s most

Get Rolling: Sushimi.

The little sushi restaurant that can turn your home into an instant uber-cool Japanese restaurant is Seminyak’s Sushimi. From sushi platters – and get a load of their sushi donuts – to sashimi platters, all the way to dialling up your own sushi chef who will roll to order, adding an element of theatre to your cocktail party. Sushimi makes it fun, colourful, affordable and perfect catering for a balmy, hot night. A la carte menus include hot and cold canapés, rolls and mains with vegetarian, seafood and meat options. What’s not to love about having a sushi chef on call?

Tel. (0361) 737816 www.sushimibali.com

oral pleasures

sara douglas swims with the fishes to sample Koral restaurant at the apurva kempinksi. images: lucky 8

sublime desserts await the intrepid.

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dive in.

You have to love a restaurant with a view. At Koral at the Apruva Kempinski in Nusa Dua, you don’t have to go far to get deep – deeply immersed in an underwater world that inspires this fascinating themed restaurant.

The monumental Kempinski resort has set out to impress from the start. From their central restaurant Pala, home to extensive breakfasts, gourmet lunches and intimate dinners as well as the abundant and generous brunch-cation every Sunday. To Izakaya

by OKU, which daily delights guests with seductive Japanese dishes from their open kitchen and bar.

Reef delivers gourmet beach classics to be enjoyed around the pool or on the beach and last but not least there is Koral, possibly their most anticipated opening.

Housed one floor below ground, Koral is surrounded by a huge aquarium, Walk underneath it, get up close with colourful tropical fish and black tip sharks, and watch as two divers add a human element to the underwater scene.

It’s a first for Bali and the restaurant itself is a picture in black and white, gleaming wood and glass walls. Bali’s first underwater restaurant offers a sophisticated mix of locally-inspired seafood dishes and French bistro favourites with a definite nod to Asian flavours.

Dive into this menu with some of their à la carte starters like the gorgeous fresh lobster salad, simply

dressed with siracha mayonnaise, Parisienne-style seasonal fruit and orange and lemon coulis; or perhaps the house-made salmon gravlax smoked with dubarry and dressed with local basil and celery jelly served with cauliflower puree, beans, radish and cress. Locally sourced seafood gets a French twist with many of these small plates.

Travel on to enjoy another lobster dish on the mains menu. This one is poached and dressed in a Thai curry sauce, the lobster meat meltingly soft and loving the spice. The squid risotto is another star on the menu; the creamy black rice soaking up the squid flavours with extra texture provided by crispy chicken and heavenly black garlic.

Meat eaters will also love dinner here with a signature Beef Rossini paying homage to the best of France. The 9+ marbling on the beef tenderloin means this will melt in your mouth, served with foie gras, truffle beef jus brioche and braised shallot, there won’t be a lot of room left for dessert – but you can always steal your partner’s.

This dish and many of the others on the menu are crying out for a good glass, or bottle, of wine and Koral’s carefully curated list doesn't disappoint. The list is a great collection of local and international wines chosen to pair perfectly with food.

With the gentle sound of a pianist, the constant movement and colour provided by the fascinating aquarium, there is something other-wordly about

dining underwater, appealing to a myriad of senses.

To ease yourself into the experience, enjoy a cocktail, mixed at your table by the roving bartender.

Dessert is the perfect finish and there’s a host of international flavours to choose from. For my money the strawberry crème brûlée is a brilliant finish, made with fresh Bedugul strawberries, served with a buttery sable biscuit and caramelised walnuts, it’s burnished to a crisp finish and the intense flavour of the strawberries is an incredible way to end this gourmet experience.

If that doesn’t rock your sweet tooth, a tangy tangerine tart is on offer, pandan profiteroles perhaps? Or settle into something rich and satisfying like the banoffee Valrhona with caramelised banana and coffee mousse praline and a rich chocolate ganache topping.

Kempinski plays to the classics beautifully with richly detailed interiors that take you on a journey of discovery. A host of great dining experiences, a glorious beachfront, a truly incredible spa and the architectural references to Indonesia’s heritage make the resort a destination in itself. Adding yet another fascinating layer to the experience is Koral, Bali’s first underwater restaurant and a culinary experience you will want to write home about. www.kempinski.com

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venting in a villa

Ondy Sweeting gets a taste of what's on offer at the extraordinary desa potato head.

A colossal cultural space is emerging from Petitenget that will shake up Bali’s art and contemporary creative scene and deliver sensory and experiential realities like no other on the island.

Desa Potato Head is on course to be a zerowaste, sustainably driven destination with hotel studios, carbon off-set atms, a recording studio, swimming pools, a library, cinema space, vast exhibition areas, a spa, a kids play and education hub, archives, a Balinese temple, a nightclub, bars and retail space. There will also be two new restaurants added to the seven that the Desa already has.

It’s not precisely under one roof, but several with a vast open expanse in the centre that will house big scale sculptural works by local and international artists. Seating space is abundant from the ground to the rooftops and entry is free.

We know the folks at Desa Potato Head value design – just clock the epic Salvador-Dali-like giant melted mirror ball installation by Rotterdam-based arts collective Rotganzen at the entrance, the largest the group has ever produced.

Potato Head also retained the internationally celebrated Dutch architectural powerhouse OMA Rem Koolhaas to design the immense new development led by David Gianotten.

Desa Potato Head is the name of the complete village, which includes the Creative Centre (as well as Katamama and Potato Head Beach Club), where guests are received for sleeping, drinking and dining but also for mingling around and taking in the space. Expect flocks of Insta-famous folk making the most of this impressive prototype that will be open to the public.

Central to the Desa is the hip hotel Katamama – which was crafted from a million ochre Balinese temple bricks – and the famous Potato Head Beach Club. Katamama, with its 57 Suites and aesthetic hewn by acclaimed Jakarta firm Andra Matin, will remain the ‘mother soul’ of the Desa.

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The 168 Potato Head studio hotel rooms in the Creative Centre, which are super chic with wooden bathtubs, will become the cultural heartbeat of the village.

The encompassing culinary identity for the Desa ranges from local line-caught fish at Ijen, to traditional Indonesian cuisine at Kaum or fresh woodfired pizza and healthy International dishes at the beach club. Within the Desa there are two new restaurants: Tanaman – an Indonesian plantes based menu and the more international diner features local ingredients at Cupola, which is housed within a retro space-age style dome or cupola, hence the name.

Visitors will be able to live across the Desa’s unique cultural experiences including a library and archive space, Balinese performances, film screenings, living programs and music events.

There will be planned art exhibitions for the multifunctional spaces that will be also used to stage educational projects and workshops.

Bali’s chilled tropical vibes and cocktails-by-thepool-culture is embraced with a long beachfront swimming pool set in a lush lawn with have bars at either end. There is also a rooftop pool within the Creative Centre as well as the multiple pools already established at the beach club and Katamama. There will be an exquisite spa that makes the most of nature’s largesse from fragrant essential oils to time honoured treatments.

A concrete bunker-style underground discotheque, which is discreetly positioned in a quiet corner of the expanse, will be called Klymax. The bespoke soundscape for the club was developed by DJ Harvey – who is possibly the most name-dropped DJ in the world and cult-like legend birthed in that other island paradise Ibiza. Never forget that Rolling Stone named him #10 in its list of the 25 DJ’s Who Rule The Earth.

The interiors in the Desa are set to get the design fiends of the island buzzing, with British

furniture designers Max Lab who specialise in extraordinarily beautiful and texturally unique pieces that include pewter poured onto sand or volcanic rock; while chairs by Faye Toogood will beam into the exclusive irregularities of the raw material used in her small scale fabrications. The works of this duo are so much more than items to rest on.

Zero waste can be viewed in the most unexpected places with the ethereally pink external walls of the building deriving their colour from scrap Katamama temple bricks integrated into the render.

The Desa has an education centre for children where the next generations will learn about, and interact with nature’s bounty. There will be no single-use plastic at all, opting instead for recycled materials.

Sustainability and climate neutrality are a major driver within Desa Potato Head – Indonesia’s first hospitality company to be recognised by the United Nations as climate neutral.

From the top – where the solar panels are installed – through to the hotel studio rooms, where baths are hewn from wood and gift bags are styled as a bamboo backpacks and filled with refillable sunblock and mosquito spray. This is a clear statement of the zero waste, carbon neutral framework the business has committed to.

Driving the idea behind the project is the ethos that community and collective power is much greater than any single effort. Think big city urban within a local community of jet set travellers, itinerant artists, locals, expats and anyone else who deems to visit this extraordinary place.

Desa Potato Head aims to captivate every guest by not just offering experiences to be consumed but rather those that encourage a unique level of participation where people will learn a skill or develop an understanding about community, creativity and the importance of engagement. www.potatohead.co/seminyak

seats of power and other spots for village people.

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venting in a villa

s u sta i n e d at a l i l a villas u lu wat u with an Earthcheck Certified gold seal of approval under its belt this bali resort takes its position on the planet very seriously, writes luiz sanchez

a green work of art.

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The last decade has seen many businesses moving towards more environmentally conscious, ethical and sustainable models in an effort to address our growing social and environmental concerns. But while the hospitality industry has made great strides in Bali, individual hotels and villas have often lagged behind as the sheer cost of revamping existing structures and supporting local communities has kept many from truly enacting lasting change.

Enter Alila Villas in Uluwatu. Alila has worked tirelessly to create a villa complex that is not only environmentally sustainable, but also ethical and supportive of its community. This year they won the coveted Earthcheck Certified gold seal of approval, the highest rating handed out by the organization, for their tireless and effective dedication to the environment and their moral obligations to society.

Alila revolutionizes what we think is possible when balancing our responsibility to the environment and the wider community with high-end luxury retreats and world-class hospitality.

Make It Local As a savannah environment, Uluwatu brings with it its own set of challenges.

The area is made mostly of limestone which is incredibly dry and radiates a lot of heat. Paired with the Indian Ocean breeze which increases humidity, it is imperative that the villas are built in a way that allows air to flow through them while also minimizing temperatures.

Alila designed their villas from the ground up to make them as environmentally sustainable as possible. A core tenet of their philosophy is to focus on local resources and knowledge, to work with their natural environment and thus have their villas become one with their surroundings.

They adopted the use of lava rocks, a naturally occurring rock in Uluwatu, as a method of insulating their properties. Lava rocks are excellent at absorbing and diffusing heat which in turn help to greatly reduce energy consumption by naturally cooling the villas. Lava rocks also hinder the growth of weeds, which consume a lot of water and are very detrimental to this water-scarce region.

Sticking to local solutions, they also have a plant nursery where they cultivate local flora to supplement the property. Indigenous plants reduce water consumption as they are hearty and ideally suited to the environment, thus minimizing excess water consumption to maintain plants that are illequipped to survive there.

Make It Green “We removed all disposable plastics from our villas,” says Alila Uluwatu’s General Manager Hemal Jain. “We have eliminated all plastic bottles and replaced them with glass bottles which we recycle. We also have our own water purification system on site so that we can recycle everything in-house and really live up to our zero-waste policy.” This policy extends to all amenities at Alila, including toiletries and straws which are all made from biodegradable materials such as bamboo. Beginning in 2016 with their Zero Waste to Landfill policy, Alila now does not contribute to Bali’s mounting waste problem.

Alila Uluwatu’s flagship environmental program is the Sustainability Lab, an on-site laboratory where all waste streams are transformed into higher value products and services through a series of simple yet proven mechanical

and biological engineering systems. “From producing our own compost to our glass recycling program and organic garden, this site is built to accommodate our efforts to create a better environment,” Hemal says.

Alila runs its own composting system, collecting all of its organic waste and transforming it into compost which it can use to fertilize its organic garden. This garden is a real inspiration and serves as a great model for an integrated sustainable design. “We grow much of our produce in-house, which helps minimize our carbon footprint,” Hemal says. “We also provide our guests with the opportunity to embark on an extraordinary gastronomical journey where they can learn traditional recipes from our talented chefs using the freshest of local ingredients.”

Social Responsibility Another pillar of Alila’s sustainability principle is social responsibility. They work closely with the R.O.L.E foundation and the Bali Life Foundation to support and empower local communities. R.O.L.E focuses on empowering women through business education and skill development, while the Bali Life Foundation provides orphaned children with housing, healthcare, and education.

Alila collects donations from guests through the use of their Giving Bag program, this amenity placed in each villa, encourages guests to donate any used products such as clothing, hairbrushes, shoes, and so on. Items left behind are collected and given to local charities directly. As of 2019 all Alila properties in Bali have implemented this initiative. “ This is a simple yet sustainable solution to reusing and recycling unneeded items for the benefit of those in greater need,” Hemal says. “Alila Bali’s Giving Bag allows guests to journey home with not only lighter luggage but also a lighter heart.”

Social responsibility is key to any tangible principles of sustainability. By recognizing the need to work closely with their community Alila is able to grow and prosper whilst also benefiting from a more well-off community, which in turn goes a long way to improving the environment and beautifying Uluwatu.

It is because of all of their efforts that Alila is the first resort in Indonesia to earn the coveted Eartcheck certified seal of approval for their sustainable design and philosophy.

Make It Luxurious Alila’s efforts are a true work of art. Their villas’ interiors blend seamlessly into their environment and their dedication to sustainability adds a flair of luxury and grace to their property. “We were excited to work with the awardwinning Singapore architectural firm WOHA, whose global reputation for innovative, sustainable-design projects in tropical environments has earned them numerous accolades,” Hemal says. WOHA is responsible for numerous projects, including the House of ROchalie Drive in Singapore which earned them the prestigious Royal Australian Institute of Architect’s International Award.

Staying at Alila is a true delight. Their eye for detail and dedication to quality service is sure to make your stay an unforgettable experience. I for one am excited to see what Alila does next with their other properties. www.alilavillasuluwatu.com

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omnibus

venting in a villa

Colonial Mansion meets Temple of Doom exotica at saratoga.

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karen donald visits saratoga villa as the unique north canggu property comes onto the market.

Nestled in a tranquil corner of Kediri, Tabanan Regency, Saratoga Villa is a fully renovated, turnkey and gorgeous property currently used for weddings, seminars and other events. Lovingly designed to offer guests a oneof-a-kind immersive experience just beyond the hip and desirable neighbourhood of Canggu, its appeal goes further than that, however. Australian owner Janet recently walked me through the property to reveal why it offers something for every type of visitor.

In addition to being one of the most beautiful and accessible jungle retreats available in Bali, this luxury jungle gem is also the perfect opportunity for buyers to jump on board and maximize existing business potential by running lucrative wellness retreats or offering guests the ultimate venue for a memorable wedding – complete with scenic views and cascading waterfalls.

In recent years, wellness has become a dominant lifestyle driver, profoundly changing both behaviour and spending decisions, bringing crowds to inclusive, secluded resorts on islands such as Bali. Saratoga is a business venture ready to utilize the explosive growth of the Asia-Pacific region, catering to people experiencing stress, information overload and urban pollution.

Comprising 3,050 square metres (30.50 are) of freehold land, plus an additional 550 square metres of leasehold land for view protection, Saratoga is situated between Canggu and Tanah Lot in Bali's main growth corridor – just 18 minutes from the popular beach at Batu Bolong, and 40 minutes to the cultural centre of Ubud. Saratoga offers huge potential just beyond one of Bali’s best surf breaks, and the friendly banjar of Kaba Kaba is fully supportive of tourist development.

It took Janet and her French husband Ralph three years to establish Saratoga as a fully commercial venue.

Their original vision was to offer a wedding venue, as the property boasts expansive views of a dramatically sculptured permanent river, but while running several

workshops, guests began to report physical and emotional transformation. And that’s not hard to believe.

After entering through the imposing teak doors, the space presents an extremely relaxed ambience, with a beautiful 30-metre spring water swimming pool, adorned with carved fountainheads reminiscent of Tirta Empul Temple. Two stone lions guard a curving wooden walkway, flanked either side by a ‘Claude Monet’ style water-lily pond. Surrounded by walls of cool mossy stone, Saratoga is a welcome escape into the tropical jungle.

Guests love this charming villa with its open floor plan and breathtaking panoramic views. Each of the 42 hand-carved steps takes you down to an open, peaceful veranda with ceramic and wooden floors, which seamlessly transitions into the natural landscape. Rocks below sit beside a mountain stream, creating relaxing water sounds with no signs of trash on the ancient riverbed, nor obnoxious nightclubs in the area.

The style is perhaps best described as Colonial Mansion meets Temple of Doom exotica. What is evident is the love that has gone into its creation and the attention to detail everywhere, embuing the entire venue with a kind of magical and transformative power. The quirky configuration of two pieces of land on either side of the river includes a connecting 12-metre bridge, featuring steel art deco railings and carved columns. With a bridge view of tumbling rapids on one side, the other sees the river spreading out into a lazy crawl, with young Balinese boys playing happily, framed by towering bamboos and the pendulous greenery of giant leafed tropical plants. It’s a totally new experience for visitors.

The 1,500 square metres of vacant land and zoning allow for a total of 25 rooms to be constructed across the bridge with additional land available for sale, allowing for 50 guest rooms in total. Alternatively a shuttle bus could transport guests from surrounding accommodation in Pererenan and Canggu.

With over 740 square metres of covered indoor and outdoor living spaces there are beautiful areas to dine, dance and entertain. The property can cater comfortably for 150 standing guests, or 80 seated just in the main dining area alone. Saratoga also boasts its own commercial kitchen, and cocktail bar.

The villa currently has four fabulous bedrooms, all with private en-suites and built-in wardrobes. There is the Raja or King Suite with its mirror paneled walls, chandeliers, private massage room and bathroom with Victorian, freestanding bath, plus another three generously proportioned bedrooms each with centuries-old polished ironwood floors from an old flood plain bridge in Kalimantan.

A large open “Wantilan” or meeting house features over 80 square metres of elegantly java-tiled floor space, ideal for yoga sessions. The post-colonial, “Romeo and Juliet” balconies, and wrought iron fencing look out onto multiple vistas, and the Styling Room caters for weddings where the bride prepares for her big day on a specially constructed platform by the jungle-lined river.

Said Carol Carter of Queensland Sotheby's International Realty: "Situated close to other successful retreats, such as Escape Ritual and Kaba Kaba Resort, there has never been a better time to invest in Saratoga. Don’t miss this incredibly rare opportunity to own a unique oasis of nature and one of the most beautiful and accessible jungle retreats I’ve seen."

Saratoga Villa is priced at USD$2,500.000 or IDR35,000,000,000. Contact Carol Carter at Sotheby’s International Realty on +61 414 760 305 for more information. http://bit.ly/livebali

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Villas, villas everywhere, now which one should I choose?

Let’s glance back in time and see what the overnight villa options were on Bali, let’s say almost half a century ago? Well, first up was The Oberoi Beach Resort, Bali, which was developed as an all-villa property in the late '70s. Skip into the mid '90s and The Villas on Jl. Kunti in Seminyak were just being incubated. Skip forward a few more years and the race was clearly on – The Ahimsa, The Elysian, The Dusun, all multi-villa properties and all managed by semi-professional hotel management teams.

Skip on yet again into this millennium and the rental of privately owned, singlevilla properties started to saturate the market. And in response to this ‘singular’ addition, (which was neither marketed nor run by a professional, hospitality management company) a new industry (to Bali anyway) was born – the Villa Management Company.

Elite Havens sold, rented and managed numerous luxury-lifestyle properties – they were definitely the pinnacle and the company leading the charge in this new world of villa rentals and real estate. Joining them on the sales side were Exotiq and Paradise Properties, all claiming street-side billboard space, designing umpteen websites and opening various offices across the south. And so villa investment poured in.

But let’s concentrate on the rental market, after all this is where help is needed on both sides of the villa spectrum. You might either be a villa owner – I say owner loosely as you could probably have a leasehold – or a traveller to Bali looking for affordable luxury, privacy and preferably a fully-staffed villa so that the whole family can enjoy the holiday, not just the kids!

Owner Or Guest?

Owner. Let’s touch on the challenges of owning and renting your villa in Bali.

Firstly, you might have a genteel and trusted staff that have been with the family for years, so thankfully the “managing” of the villa is not an issue (except for guidance and the occasional spring clean/upkeep) but possibly where the proverbial hits the breeze is on the marketing level. How does one keep up with Google’s algorithms? Post often enough to keep followers engaged?

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Upload enough “decent” content to stay ahead of the rental pack? And more importantly, how to stay away from joining alternative online options that charge huge commissions and demand a minimum ad spend every so often?

Today’s Top of the Choice is Bali Villas Holiday Vacation Rentals aka BVHVR, and with a name like that it clearly is not an agency that has anything to do with long-term rentals! The chief coffee-maker behind the brand comes from a real-estate background and, soon after the non-event that was Y2K for those that remember, he saw the niche in the market and, as all good entrepreneurs do, covered it. Listing only four-star villas and above, and now with over 800 properties on the books, BVHVR are quite comfortably the agency of choice to list your villa for short-term rentals. Foremost, there are no marketing fees!

Secondly, since they are not involved in managing the villas they can focus solely on the promotion of said villas under their umbrella. And thirdly, the villa owner also has the freedom to rent the villa with no limits (not so with other agencies). So if you have a one-bedroom pool villa or even a 15-bedroom villa that you need promoted and marketed but not managed, then maybe drop them a line.

Guest. Are you a traveller, mired down in the world of choice, dubious reviews, with no point of contact on Bali to assist you and your family in getting past the battalions of taxi drivers at the airport? At BVHVR they pride themselves on the personal touch, the direct contact. They will assist you in your booking. They will meet and greet you at the airport, arrange private tours and recommend places to eat and play. The hand-picked and experienced team that speaks six languages between them, from Chinese to Dutch to French and beyond are there dedicated to ironing out any minor glitches you may have whilst on your holiday. And, as we know from TripAdvisor and other review sites it seems there can always be a few!

So if you’re looking to book a Bali holiday online head to Bali Villas Holiday Vacation Rentals, your portal to fully staffed, tropical opulence. www.balivillashvr.com

not a toga in sight.

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venting in a villa

Ondy Sweeting visits a bali classic. photos: lucky 8.

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traditional bali abounds at the oberoi beach resort, bali.

Five-star hotels come and go, but the grand old hotels of the world remain in a timeless bubble as untouchable and unchanged as granny’s diamond earrings.

Historic hotels always have the same six things in common: the best address in town, jaw dropping dining, 'you will not believe who has stayed here' kudos, secret gardens, incredible views and great original art on the walls.

The Oberoi Beach Resort, Bali has earned her stripes as Bali’s own Grande Dame.

As the original resort in the once-rural Seminyak, the property is by far the largest frontage on the beach.

Beyond the beautiful stone walls (cloaked in brightly coloured tropical flowers) is a paradise of pleasure, from the culinary genius of chef Enrico Wahl through to the visual delights of Balinese-style design.

Renowned Australian architect Peter Muller developed and worked on the famous resort from 1977 to 2001. He also birthed the stunning sister Oberoi Hotel in Lombok, which followed the Bali model with openwalled pavilions and traditional alang-alang roofs that remain in evidence today across nearly two hectares of heavenly tropical gardens.

Such was this acclaimed architect’s magical insight and practical interpretation into local culture that he was commissioned to create Oberoi hotels in Goa, India, and Luxor, Egypt. His extraordinary work in Bali was also the subject of the academic thesis Discriminating Eyes in Bali, Indonesia by Vanessa R. Preisler, University of Oregon, U.S.A. Stepping into The Oberoi Beach Resort, Bali is like stepping back into a time time when space was as generous as the hospitality.

It is old school at its very best, from water lily-laden ponds filled with cruising carp to hand-carved stone statuary – every corner of this delightful destination is a beauty trap. The glorious swimming pool is flanked by gardens and the sea. When it is free of swimmers the still water sublimely reflects the ocean and sky.

Princess Grace and Salvador Dali where among those who owned villas in the compound while Mick Jagger, Julia Roberts, David Bowie and Gianni Versace were among the celebrity guests.

The accommodation at The Oberoi Beach Resort, Bali is in 74 villas – which take up just 20 per cent of the entire grounds – and includes one-bedroom villas with a pool and sea views to garden rooms with a private terrace.

Bathrooms are enormous and each one has an interior garden plus a sunken bath and separate shower. Toiletries are by the village-based, profit-sharing organic skin company Sensatia Botanicals. The interiors are a flashback to the old Bali of legend and feel a little like you have fallen into a painting of the bird-filled jungles that grace the walls of the rooms.

Each room is positioned on a stone pave pathway that winds throughout the gardens and will lead you to the excellent spa – which is a must for a quiet afternoon – the tennis court, beach or one of the dining areas.

The Kura Kura restaurant showcases Chef Enrico’s abundant culinary talent. This is world-class fine dining where the tiniest detail is thought out to perfection from lush Indian curries to astonishing molecular cuisine.

The international repertoire on the menu may well be unmatched in Bali, pairing slivers of home-pickled beetroot with micro greens, or spears of rare white asparagus when in season. Goats cheese is reinvented to

resemble a quail's egg, the degustation menu is out of this world . . . or simply enjoy Bali’s best Caesar salad.

With 40 years' experience serving an elite clientele, the staff at the Oberoi are well versed in delivering seamless attention, worthy of each of the property's five stars. Many of the team started their careers in hospitality at the hotel decades ago. Staff retention is very high.

By the pool, sun beds are made up to order, sun glasses are polished and cleaned of the salty mist from the ocean just metres away. Chilled infused water is delivered regularly to avoid dehydration in the hot sun.

Among the charming daily activities is afternoon tea and cultural performances in the poolside amphitheatre.

Local delicacies are served on bespoke china painted with images unique to Bali – women in traditional clothing, religious artefacts, images of temples and even Bintang beer and Bali dogs.

The resort is a short stroll away from one of Bali’s important water temples in Petitenget. Seemingly every morning the sound of delicate music floats on the breeze from a nearby pura to mark each of a vast number important religious days on the Balinese religious calendar.

The beauty of Muller’s original plan is the seamless integration of local culture into a refined holiday retreat staffed with hundreds of committed professionals working to create a blissful experience. It is a truly magical feat.

As part of Bali’s historic fabric, The Oberoi Beach Resort, Bali holds a unique position among resorts on the island as the mother of luxury hotels on the Island of the Gods. Long may it continue. www.oberoihotels.com

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overlooking impossibles surf break this premium property offers a perfect base from which to explore THE BUKIT PENINSULA, WRITES KAREN DONALD.

Radisson Blu Bali Uluwatu is a leader in the hospitality industry, with its distinctive style and reputation for excellence. The hotel resides on a dramatically beautiful hill with a view of white sand beaches secluded by limestone cliffs that line the rugged coastline of the southern Bukit Peninsula.

that deliver delightful fresh air and sea breezes.

Grey water is used for landscaping the pink bougainvillea flowers and palms in the gardens. Air conditioning goes off automatically when opening the French doors, revealing the sound of nature including songbirds in the distance.

The five-star hotel is well positioned close to Bali’s biggest attractions, best social hubs and most popular surf spots. Featuring 111 deluxe rooms complete with private balconies, plus 14 suites including a rooftop terrace, the resort boasts two restaurants, three bars, SpaESC, fitness centre and five event spaces hosting up to 240 guests.

With stylish aesthetics, ocean views, poolside cabanas and romantic dinners for two, it caters to everyone’s needs.

To keep up with workout routines guests can go for a jog in the fully equipped fitness center, or join a twice-daily, free yoga session on the lawn. The large and inviting pool is always just the correct temperature with lots of access points, loungers, cabanas and sofas – well appointed for all-day sunshine and sunbathing too. Swim in silky smooth water and enjoy the calm atmosphere.

Radisson Blu attracts a wide range of people from chic honeymooners to surfers, and although the resort is located next to advanced surf breaks such as Impossibles, the area is blessed with idyllic white sand beaches including Padang-Padang, where calm water is safe for families to swim and relax – plus the steps back to the road are a great cardio workout.

From the minute guests arrive at the newly opened Radisson Blu Uluwatu they are treated like royalty.

Gorgeous rooms exceed expectations in every way, from their enormous size to the high-tech amenities and, of course, the fabulous levels of comfort, with 400 thread-count bed linen. Rooms are fitted with air conditioning, flat-screen TV, beautiful walk-in showers with rain head, separate bathtub, coffee capsule machine, and attractive garden views.

Radisson Blu has some eco friendly features including open corridors outside the guest rooms

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Radisson Blu’s two poolside bars allow holidaymakers to dip their toes in and relax with a drink in hand. Choka and Lucid Liquids offer ice-cold thirst quenchers and are convenient spots for fresh juices, herbal teas, traditional remedies, and cocktails. For visitors and locals alike, there's no better way to cool off than sipping a chilled drink while relaxing by the pool.

When fully stress-free, there are plenty of options to fill up on fresh and flavoursome cuisine available throughout the resort. After all, it wouldn’t be a holiday without at least a little indulgence!

Artichoke is one of two on-site eateries serving delicious Indonesian-inspired meals and a selection of wines. It is home to Radisson Blu’s signature Super Breakfast where the barista-made coffee is spot on. In the evenings, Filini Italian Bar & Restaurant offers not only a fabulous contemporary Italian dining experience, but also an unbelievable setting under the Balinese moonlight. Plan a memorable outdoor evening to wine and dine in the ambient light of a stunning water-fire fountain on the gorgeous garden terrace.

The path to Impossibles Beach is situated right next to the hotel – only 10 minutes' walk down several steps to a secluded sandy beach. It’s ideal for sunbathing, checking out hidden caves and exploring rock pools.

While the free shuttle ride transports surfers to Padang Padang, non-surfers can visit the 122-meter tall statue located in Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park or check out Uluwatu Temple, considered Bali’s shrine to the sea gods, situated high on a cliff with a commanding view of the ocean. After exploring the temple and watching a stunning sunset, guests can experience Bali’s most famous cultural performance, the Kecak fire dance.

Radisson Blu’s world-class Spa ESC and Fitness Centre is ideal for those looking for relaxation, pampering and fitness within the grounds.

Boasting a modern Zen-like design, Spa ESC uses Babor beauty products for facial treatments, focusing on their natural and innovative, active ingredients. The spa features seven private treatment rooms including two express rooms for those on the go. The spa also has a fully equipped fitness centre with beauty salon, yoga room, and boutique. Try their 60-minute Blu Signature stress relieving massage, using a blend of local products including aromatic cempaka, frangipani and sandalwood oils.

Boasting warm hospitality and attentive staff, Radisson Blu is the perfect choice for visitors looking to take a break in peaceful surroundings– combined with a solid base from which to explore Uluwatu, and the Bukit Peninsula. www.radissonhotels.com

ROOMS WITH A VIEW.

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over the edge glamp meets exotic splendour on the edge of the komodo national park At the seraya. images: Oscar Munar. Words: Tony Stanton.

It’s dawn at The Seraya and the sun is rising in the east, over the magnificent Flores Sea and Sebabi island that sits pristine in the distance.

A kingfisher watches the ocean’s shimmer and makes an early foray into the water, where Dalliance, the resort’s navy blue phinisi, sits languidly in the early morning glow at the end of a grey, ironwood jetty.

It’s an exotic sight. The backdrop is of Seraya Besar, another of Komodo’s family of brown-hued islands that give the archipelago such an African feel at this, the driest time of the year.

In a few months the rains will come and the landscape – a collection of jagged, dragon-shaped landmasses – will change from Africa to something closer to Scotland.

The hills will green, the grass will grow and the tamarind trees will burst with fruit. Only the sunsets may subdue, bleeding from startling pinks and rich reds to a more subtle golden pantone.

Beneath the water little will change – and it’s here the real adventure begins. Below the jetty a teeming coral reef offers a natural aquarium the like of which I’ve rarely seen.

Baby sharks emerge from the mangrove; iridescent squid argue with parrot fish over their patch of paradise. On good days, mantas, dolphins, sometimes whales, glide past in the channel between the islands.

It’s dugong season too, and these strange, often friendly, aquatic mammals gave rise to the island’s name.

‘Sereia’ in Portuguse means ‘mermaid’ – it was the dugong that bewitched early sailors to these shores, prompting stories of angelic, fish-tailed maidens that frolicked near their boats.

There were other myths born from the early days of colonial exploration – there be dragons among these hills, 134

and it is mostly for their sake tourism has now wholeheartedly arrived in the nearby port town of Labuan Bajo.

We are 20 minutes away by fast boat from that dusty frontier, where construction butts a harbour filled with scores of impressive wooden boats. The Seraya is the child of architects David Mansell and his partner Emytha Taihutu, who first saw the land on which it sits around 10 years ago.

They too were bewitched . . . by the fold in the hills that overlooked a living reef, and it was here that they built the property’s manta-shaped bamboo restaurant. Today it sits majestically unseen above a mangrove – to its right a line of luxurious ‘glamped’ bungalows form a row at the tree line, right on the small bay’s sandy beach; behind them a line of more modern sea view bungalows are equally as welcoming.

The resort’s brown Labrador Inca greets us as we approach, past the dive centre and swimming pool and up the steps to the restaurant. The view is stunning. The Seraya’s aspect is unbeatable, its scale intimate and chilled.

We sit down with Will and Georgina, David’s children to whom it has fallen to manage this particular piece of nirvana.

They are friendly in the Australian way, well informed and practical – it’s easy to see why they have been entrusted to run the show.

“We opened in 2017,” says Will, “at first with four bungalows at the back and the restaurant building, and we’ve been expanding ever since.” Now with an additional 10 bungalows and 24 staff, the phinisi Dalliance and a dive centre on site, The Seraya can offer the full Komodo experience, and it’s to the national park that we head the following day.

Boarding a speedboat at 7am, we reach Padar island

in an hour, then onto another to wallow in the park’s famously pink sand; we dive with mantas directly off our boat and visit the famously infamous dragons on Komodo . . . an experience I won’t easily forget . . . and before too long we are back at The Seraya in time for cocktails, in our particular patch of this tropical Jurassic Park.

Tales of reptilian adventure are perhaps for another time, because today we marvel once more at the teeming reef beneath us as we arrive back at the jetty. An octopus crawls over a coral outcrop, the boat’s arrival puts up a huge shoal of tiny fish that leap in unison above the water’s surface. A heron attempts to catch its dinner in the ensuing cluster, and a pair of angel fish dodges the action as a needlefish floats by.

Komodo is startling in its grainy austerity above ground, and the national park is a marvel of prehistoric nature, but it’s what lies beneath the surface of the ocean that stands out for me, and nowhere is it more easily accessible than from The Seraya’s pier.

If you are feeling adventurous but want to miss the crowds around Komodo, slip on a mask and snorkel and a pair of fins and plunge into the clear blue ocean water.

You’ll be amazed at what you see – and filled with a sense of wonder for this remote and beguiling region. Certainly you will not want to leave, and I guarantee you will plan a return. Komodo and The Seraya await your attention.

The Seraya offers 14 bungalows, full board with a minimum two nights stay from $180 in the off season. www.theseraya.com

this page: dawn til dusk on the seraya beachhead. top left, pier-less views over a calm flores sea.

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Golden Elephants

mason adventures adapts to changing times and is rewarded with honours.

a walk in the park at mason adventures.

LOVE, passion and years of dedication to a parade of rescued Sumatran elephants has rewarded Bali’s golden couple of tourism Nigel and Yanie Mason’s elephant park with a Gold Standard accreditation.

Asian Captive Elephant Standards (ACES) created the best practice system for pachyderms that are involved in tourism throughout Southeast Asia. Mason Adventures has claimed the organization’s first Gold Standard accreditation after successfully passing an extensive auditing process for the Mason Elephant Park & Lodge.

ACES is the world’s first international, fully transparent and independent company, comprising of to propose an all-encompassing work-life standard for elephants in the region, which is home to 10,000 of the captive creatures.

The group aims to enhance the life of elephants in tourism and works in tandem with tourist operations, governments, universities, local communities and the tourist operations that employ the elephants.

It is no small thing to design a welfare program that delivers species conservation and best outcomes. It covers everything from seasonal diets that are delicious and offer variety through to working hours, mahout education, veterinary care, social lives, breeding programs and environmental richness for these wonderful mammals.

At a time when animal activists demand better environments for captive animals, alternative forms of conservation and protection are gaining respect and rewards from elite organizations dedicated to species preservation throughout the world.

“Mason Adventures has exceeded elephant camp standards and fulfilled over 90% of ACES strict advanced camp criteria," said ACES’s director Nicolas Dubrocard. "They have reached the highest level of accreditation possible for an elephant camp." Mr Dubrocard added that the Taro elephant park and lodge is an exceptional example of elephant-based tourism.

“All elephants are well socialised, provided with strong enrichment opportunities and receive the best veterinary care available. We are proud of all the hard work the team at Mason Adventures have invested into their park and elephants. The Gold level 136

is very much deserved,” says Mr Dubrocard.

Nigel and Yanie Mason started the Taro park with nine rescued Sumatran elephants. Within six years, it was home to 27 elephants with five delightful additions joining the family as they were born in the park.

The Mason Elephant Park & Lodge constantly adapts to new research and information about the care and protection of the creatures. The group has abandoned its elephant theatre as outdated and replaced it with an education centre. A new overhead walkway has been built in the elephant park, which enjoys a natural forest canopy that is ideal for Asian elephants, so guests can enjoy a birds-eye view of the pachyderms and the park’s exquisite gardens.

Sumatran elephants that are trapped in the slaving cycle of the logging industry have a life span of about six years and they rarely reproduce.

One the early members of the Mason herd had her second baby – a little bull called Arjuna – in June this year. Mum is thirty years old – an age unheard of in abusive captive elephant industries.

Nigel Mason recently expanded the park once again to give the elephants more space to socialise with their chosen friends. “You’d be mistaken if you thought all elephants get on." says Nigel "We are very careful to make sure there is space enough for them to stay within their herds that have naturally developed."

Mason elephants have a passive professional life that includes being washed and fed by the park’s guests as well as walking people down to dinner or for short jungle strolls. It’s a far cry from their tragic starting point dragging tonnes of logs around and being left chained in the sun with insufficient food, water, and medical care in remote jungle locations with abusive and negligent owners.

The Gold Standard accreditation is another honour that recognises that a wild idea such as rescuing elephants from another island in Indonesia and giving them a home, can work when the right people are at the helm. www.masonelephantlodge.com

Jl. Sekar Tunjung XIV No. 36 A, Kesiman Kertalangu,Denpasar Timur, Bali 80237 +6251-0066-6991 info@shl.asia

@shl.asia_

architecture landscape artwork

Bukit Pandawa Golf & Country Club Opened in October 2016, Bukit Pandawa Golf & Country Club is the latest addition to Bali’s growing collection of world-class golf courses.

Situated on a limestone cliff overlooking the world-famous surf breaks of the Bukit Peninsula, Bukit Pandawa offers 18 championship calibre par-3 golf holes, many of which have spectacular views of the Indian Ocean and rustic architectural relics. The clubhouse is inspired by the many grand temples Bali is renowned for, and includes The Kul-Kul Restaurant, which offers a great selection of food and drink. The club is the centrepiece of an expansive development that will eventually include several 5-star hotels, including a Waldorf Astoria, Mandarin Oriental and Swissotel.

Bukit Pandawa Golf & Country Club Jl. Gunung Payung No. 8, Banjar Panti Giri – Desa Kutuh, Kuta Selatan – Badung, Bali 80361 T : (+62) 361 472 5999 | (+62) 811 3811 2828 E : marketing@bukitpandawagolf.com | www.bukitpandawagolf.com

sporting chance

Liga. Tennis Centre & Academy officially opened in May 2019 with the mission of creating happier and healthier lives through tennis. Located in Umalas, this world-class centre has six professional ITF-standard courts, fullyequipped classrooms, an after-school junior academy and individual and group lessons for all ages. We caught up with founder and CEO Dmitry Shcherbakov to get the low-down on what’s shaking on the courts.

Hi Dmitry. So it’s been a few months since Liga.

Tennis Center & Academy opened its doors.

How things are going?

To be honest we were hoping for success, but the results have gone far beyond our expectations. It’s hard to believe, but since we opened on May 26th we now have a fully completed facility with six tennis courts including four covered courts, we’ve established comprehensive tennis programs for juniors and adults, we’ve put together a great team, and we’re getting rave reviews from satisfied clients.

We also organised the Liga.Tennis Open 2019, the largest tournament in Bali in the past 10 years.

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Jo-Wilfried Tsonga, Lleyton Hewitt, Nick Kyrgios, Daniil Medvedev, John Isner, Richard Gasquet, Fernando Verdasco and Tommy Haas, to name just a few. He’s also a former Davis Cup player for Australia. Moreover, Marinko is just an incredibly nice person and is very serious about developing tennis here in Indonesia. We’re glad to have him on board!

It sounds like the Pro Tennis Academy is shaping up to be an internationally recognized institution. Do you see it being on par with other institutions like the Rafa Nadal Academy or the IMG Academy?

Absolutely. We have everything here to compete with these giants including a great location in Bali, high-end facilities, sunny weather and a professional team. What makes us stand out from the rest is we ensure an individual approach for everyone, as our Pro Academy consists of only 16 students.

Each of the students is in touch daily with our professional coaches including Marinko Matosevic. Now you don't have to go far, say to Europe or the USA, to train tennis professionally.

Wow – the largest tournament in Bali in the last 10 years?

Can you tell us more about the Liga.Tennis Open 2019?

It was an exciting nine-day event with 168 participants playing in 284 matches to compete for IDR100 million in prize money. Among the pro players were Singapore’s Ng Hao Yuan, Malaysia’s Christian Chin, Qatar’s Rayane Alami, top Indonesian athletes and Marinko Matosevic from Australia. Of course the tournament wouldn't have been possible without the great support from our sponsors. We want to thank the various local and international brands that supported us and give a special thanks to PELTI (the Indonesian Tennis Association) for helping to organise the event.

Looks like you’re guys are knocking it out of the park.

What’s next?

Our developments are huge and going far beyond just the tennis centre in Bali. We’re currently working on establishing a talent agency, new tennis centres under our brand across the country, a series of junior tournaments around Indonesia, nationwide junior programs, a new sportswear brand called Liga.Fit, a virtual reality platform and, of course, the Liga.

Tennis app, which keeps growing on all continents.

Does that mean you’ll be planning another Liga.Tennis Open next year?

Of course! We’re planning to host the tournament annually.

For 2020 I believe we can get some current pros to join. If we invite famous players, it will definitely increase the interest in tennis and an active lifestyle in Bali and Indonesia. Really that’s what we’re all about. Our mission is to encourage people to live better through sport, and tennis is one of the healthiest sports on the planet.

Where do you get the investments for such global growth?

Good question. As you can see, Liga.Tennis has become a group of companies with different specialisations, but all related to tennis and sport. That’s why we’ve incorporated Liga.Management in Singapore, a holding management company for all the Liga.Tennis companies worldwide. At the moment we’re open and looking for investors. The details can be found at www.liga.tennis/invest.

Marinko Matosevic is a household name among tennis fans. We hear he’s now part of the Liga.Tennis team.

Can you tell us a bit more about that?

Indeed, Matosevic is a former World No. 39 ATP professional tennis player and he has joined the Liga.Tennis team here in Bali. During his career he’s defeated top players including Dominic Thiem, Milos Raonic, Marin Čilić, Nikolay Davydenko,

Sounds like a winning match. Thanks! www.liga.tennis/itca

e her nd s i a g inin entre -end a r h t c : g to nis nnis er, hi ach ords n e e o lt a.t ath pr r. w eve th lig y we al ap inne l n i u w al on ali w e sun divid ne a i s fes in b her n in eryo pro stay my, w and a es ev to ade ties mak e. ac cili me me fa e ga anie th eph st

smash it.

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Photographer: axioo.bali

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artsake

a story of art and innocence as Ano Mac meets agung prabowo. images: Didit Prasetyo Adiwibowo.

Art has always been Agugn’s way of dealing with his demons. A cathartic process where he gets to lay bare his fears and insecurities and exorcize them through equal measures of embracing and compelling it to be reborn into something new.

We meet on a Sunday morning, the café is crowded, the coffee is strong and flavoursome and Agugn looks fresh and well slept. [His 'brand' name if you will is a play on the ubiquitous 'Agung'.] He’s been on a mini holiday of sorts in Canggu with Sekar Puti, his wife, and their children and given that he’s just opened an exhibition at the Deus Temple of Enthusiasm and with the biggest exhibition of his life just around the calendar corner, he looks incredibly well-rested and focused. One thing he doesn’t look like is your normal rebel, the self-proclaimed black sheep of his family, but in front of me sits a guy who reset his entire family's set of ideals, so perhaps radicals really do come in all shapes and sizes.

Agung Prabowo was born in Bandung West Java in 1985. The son of strict Muslim parents wasn’t the ideal setting for an artist to grow up in. For one thing, a lot of things were forbidden to him, things many take for granted like drawing the human form, or the form of some animal, even some flowers, all of them were things his parents sought to put a stop to. They were pushing water uphill though because he couldn’t stop drawing any more than we can stop day turning to night and back again and while they could never understand what his art was or if and how he was ever going to make enough to feed himself and his family, at the end of the day they loved him and decided to accept who he is and what he does.

We begin to talk. About growing up where Agugn shared a bunk bed with his brother. Being the elder son, Agugn got the top bed. Drawing was already his mate, muse and constant companion. He took to sticking his art up onto the walls beside his bed and over a period of time he covered first the wall and when that was chock full he took to covering the ceiling above the bed, effectively creating a cocoon of his imagery. An immersive experience, a space where he fell asleep and then woke again.

While he graduated college in 2010 Agugn didn’t go all bull at the gate when it came to holding his first solo exhibition, rather he invested a big chunk of time into honing his craft. He researched the various processes and techniques, especially of printmaking and paper making.

He was in a couple of group shows but it wasn’t until 2013 that he held his first solo exhibition.

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‘Natural Mystic’ was the name of that show and like all of his work, it explored a fear of his. One that was tremendously significant at the time. The fear of childbirth, the fear of becoming a parent for the very first time. All of us who are parents have felt the angst and anxiety that accompanies the firstborn. The fear of someone completely and utterly relying on you and of course the fear of failing that person. Agugn uses his art to put it all of it out there, staking it flat and exposing it for all to see. The exhibition opened in Yogyakarta but subsequently was shown in Solo and in Bali.

In 2012 Agugn had something of a Eureka moment when he showed the early versions of a character he has since become synonymous with. Based heavily on the Indonesian ‘Wayang’, a form of puppet theatre art found in Indonesia, wherein a dramatic story is communicated through shadows thrown by puppets. Agugn chose to use a similar language in these new silhouette figures.

The outline tells a story where they dance about or are in emotive states but when you look inside you see their distinctions, flaws, and traits through his depiction of different internal organs or bones, ideals through which he hopes to reflect not only the different elements of fragility within the human body but also to expose the fears from their minds and souls.

Over the next few years Agugn continued to work on his techniques and as his work matured and refined so did the interest in his work and the frequency of both solo and group exhibitions. Jakarta, Bandung, and around the world, specifically, New York, Paris, Tokyo, Singapore, Sydney, and Manila. He’d also overcome a major hurdle during this period. The woodcut printing he’d started off doing had little or no longevity. The tropical climate and the printing inks soaked into the MDF board he’d been carving causing it to swell and distort rendering it useless after just a few prints. You have to understand that there was no culture of Linocut in Indonesia up to this point, and it wasn’t until a friend from overseas gifted him some that he saw all the benefits of this material. He looked and asked around but the flat sheets of Lino substrate he needed to carve just were not available domestically. Until they were. He found them by accident in the workshop of a shoe manufacturer.

As with most artists, there are a lot of sketches and detail drawings created before Agugn commits his intentions to print. For him, the process of drawing is much more intimate. As with his figures, he seeks that one, or few, crucial strokes that deliver the movement and action that

will communicate the feelings he is looking to instill in the final piece. With his figures, he also seeks to find that one flaw or fragility that resonates. Small wonder that these sketches end up being reworked multiple times before crystalizing to become a print.

His long-held dream of creating an immersive piece, born from the bunk bed of his youth was finally realized in 2017 when Facebook Indonesia commissioned him to do a 14-metre long wall in their Jakarta headquarters.

The experience left him satisfied but at the same time wanting more and as word leaked out he was offered, and took commission after commission, in restaurants, shopping malls, and hotels. Each one of them helping him to embrace his need to contain the awareness of the total space.

Always looking for that new experience and outlet, Agugn was stoked to be asked by the Indonesian heavy rock band Mooner to work on some pictures for them for some cover art. This led to him meeting an amazing young animator called Seeds. This led to a toe in the water moment where the two of them collaborated to bring two of his pictures to life as video clips for the band. Little did he know it would become the precursor to another immersive, but this time interactive piece, in Bali.

Bigger things are afoot. He has been asked by the city of Machida in Japan to hold a solo show at their Museum of Graphic Art as part of the 2020 Olympics. Machida is the host city for the Indonesian Olympic team and his will be one of the cultural offerings.

He went to Japan for the first time a few months ago.

To get a feel for the place, research for the show which opens on the 10th of April. He, like a lot of us, held a certain Disneyeque idealistic view of Japan, until he got there. He’s since replaced this with a firsthand more realistic view of it.

Upon arrival, he tells me it came across all wonderful and colourful but after a moment as he became atuned to it, he sensed darkness across all of it, a grey coating on things, a layer of depression over it all. You can tell he’s sensitive to this and many more of the energies, good and bad. And we are likely to get more than a peek into what he saw there with the Machida show. Until that time we can only hope to fall asleep and wake up in the dreams that inhabit Agugn’s other world, I just hope it’s not in his shadows. www.agugn.com

world of woodcut.

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yak awards

hip hop, baby don't stop. After a voting session that saw 4,000 people poll for their favourites, The Yak Awards 2019 hit Tamora Gallery car park for an epic blok party followed by a descent into the brilliant darkness that is Vault Bali, where we gave out 20 awards to the island's brightest and best. Sippy Straw Greg and Arie Dixon entertained the gathered masses in true hip-hop style as Tony Montana span his tunes to the beat of New York City's Bronx golden age. Big ups to all our fabuous sponsors – as always – and thanks to you, our dedicated fan base, for bringing the love. And the winners were: Best Newcomer: Café del Mar Bali Best Photographer: Oscar Munar Best Designer (Fashion/ Accessories): Made de Coney, Lily Jean Bali Best Restaurant: Api Jiwa, Capella Ubud The Green Award: Potato Head Beach Club Bali Best Bar: Ulu Cliffhouse Best Chef: Penny Williams, Bali Asli Best Sunset Venue: La Brisa Bali Best DJ: Scott Pullen Best Interior (Retail/ Restaurant): Da Maria Bali Petitenget Best Resort/ Hotel: The Apurva Kempinski Bali Best Day Spa/Aesthetic (not related to a hotel): Glo Day Spa & Salon Best Villa Under 7 Bedrooms: Villa 1880, Tuban Best Ad Campaign: Sensatia Botanicals Best Brand Award (Bali-based only): Waterbom Bali, Tuban Best Event: Phoenix Sundays at OMNIA Bali, Uluwatu Best Host Venue: Vault Bali & Tamora Gallery, Berawa Yak Man of the Year: Tony Manusama Save Our Sea Indonesian Education Centre, Kolewa Foundation Yak Woman of the Year: Jackie Pomeroy for Mount Agung Daily Report Outstanding Achievement Award: Nigel & Yanie Mason, Mason Adventures

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images: Bali tonight, tony roseman, robert rosen.

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YAK EVENTS

art+ Fashion THE Yak Magazine, Perth Fashion Festival (PFF) and Art•Bali worked together to present the opening of the island's 2019 annual international standard contemporary art exhibition 'Speculative Memories' in the AB•BC building in Nusa Dua, showcasing fashion from PFF in a mixed media extravaganza that drew a large crowd of fashionistas and art enthusiasts.

The collaboration between The Yak, Art•Bali and Fashion Council Western Australia is part of the recent signing of the Indonesia Australia-Comprehensive Economic Partnership Agreement. A large-scale bamboo installation 'Alphapet Moles' by Wayan 'Suklu' Sujana provided the stage and an impressive backdrop. "The upbeat audio and visual opening provided an exciting diversion from the usually monotonous opening formalities and was a vast improvement from the previous year," said art writer Richard Horstman. "I expect that's because The Yak wasn't involved in 2018." Look out for a new level of luxe in 2020.

carry on catwalk at artBali.

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fashion freestyle

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fashion freestyle

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horoscope

astroyak

Astrologer Dallas Kalmar hits the charts to give us the latest cosmic intel.

aries Groovy potential. December sees to it that you end the year (and swagger into 2020) on a professional high note. The Dec. 27 solar eclipse powers up your career house, newly galvanized by the Sun, Jupiter, Mercury – AND ‘taskmaster’ Saturn – the influence of which may have felt like a ceaseless wet blanket every time you tried to advance over the past two years. No more! You now have cosmic carte blanche to take those dazzling ideas to new heights. Earmark Jan. 10 for closure on some deep-seated contention with a (likely female) family member. This could also play out as giving birth (literally or creatively).

which to give precedence and when to wave the white flag on either front could prove challenging. You’ll get your first discernable nudge from the cosmos on Dec. 26, when a game-changing eclipse in your house of home and family may prompt you to move house or make some substantial decisions – or swiftly adapt to changes beyond your control. Within a month of Jan. 10, you could be celebrating a career coup or temporary setback that leads to the former.

Volare…nel blu di pinto di blu. Single or attached, Venus’ sultry visit to your romance realm heats things up and could find you feeling utterly swept away by Jan. 28 – for better or worse! When Mercury does an about-face on Feb. 16, take heed: while retrogrades hardly ever lend themselves to convenience, they do offer the space to revise, reunite, reconsider – and when it comes to love, you’ll see soon enough that this is exactly what the doctor ordered. While it might not be all sweetness and light, the end result will be a more authentic connection with the object of your affection.

scorpio Waiting for the right time. A game-changing eclipse in your house of legal issues and cross-cultural connections positions you for a mountain of support behind your avant garde proposals. Travel may figure prominently, or you might just be inspired by new experiences – either way, make sure you take in some fresh inspiration. Around Jan.10, speak your truth! Taurus rules the throat, and with your expressive third house so synergistically charged and Mercury in your career sector, that week could offer up some once-in-a-lifetime opportunities to don the director’s chair in the coming months!

taurus

Got a handful of stacks / better grab an umbrella. When it comes to playing fiscal favorites, you’re undoubtedly the ocular apple of the cosmos in 2020.

Beginning Dec. 3, Jupiter raises the roof on your financial sector for an entire year, and the solar eclipse there on Dec. 26 can set things in motion. However, you’ll need to take the reins to make it rain – which shouldn’t be a problem from Jan. 3, when energizing Mars ramps up your ambition and charisma quotient. That said, the ‘Warrior planet’ could also shorten your fuse, so try to lay low around Jan. 10 should the eclipse unearth something less appealing than a windfall.

sagittarius gemini Into the deep we go. A tide turning, drop-the-mic moment in an important relationship could ensue within a month of Dec. 26, when the solar eclipse shakes things up in your house of intimacy, secrets and shared finances. This could play out as power dynamics, trust issues, or simply a new career opportunity until the end of March. Whatever happens, try to come from a place of love rather than fear. On Feb. 23, the new moon in your career house sets the stage for success. With Mercury doing a backspin in your technology house, though, you could lose some relevant (expensive!) data if you’re not hyper-vigilant about backups.

Holding on for life / holding on for love. You can start breathing a sigh of relief from Dec. 3, as expansive Jupiter moves out of your house of transition, surrender and closure and into Capricorn. Here, he sprinkles your next year with cosmic fairy dust, giving wings to any previously stagnant area of importance to you. Dec.26 acts as your cosmic birthday cake; make a wish (or several!) and blow out every last candle! You’ll start to see the first sparks of fulfillment as soon as Jan. 10, when the lunar eclipse in your partnership house brushes the proverbial crumbs away to make space for new (or renewed) love and adventures.

cancer

If my heart was a turntable. The full moon on Dec. 12 holds the space for you to forgive and set your soul free, and Dec. 26 rolls out the cosmic flokati rug for you and your plus-one/potential. While structure-bound Saturn and transformative Pluto have been running interference in your partnership house since 2017 (i.e. ‘the one’ you now realize was merely a karmic canoodle, or perhaps fumbled between renewal and withdrawal in a longterm relationship), you now have lucky, expansive Jupiter bolstering this sphere all year to help manifest only the best starting Jan. 3. Watch within a month of Jan. 10 for sweet (albeit emotional) resolution to longstanding personal issues.

capricorn

Throw your arms around the world. What’re your rituals, Leo – and which ones should you release altogether? You get a wave of fresh, can-do energy around Dec.26, when a potent Capricorn solar eclipse in your house of routines, health and service sounds the call for a system overhaul. Make that overdue dental appointment, sure (Capricorn rules the teeth and bones), but visualize how you want to feel and even heal over the next six months, and action a plan to get there. A cosmically catalytic day for the Leo Archives arrives on Jan.12 – this is a day to practice radical acts of kindness and pad your karmic bank account, even if you’re still feeling a bit raw from all that emoting recently.

Can we work it out? Resentment BEGONE! Your house of healing and closure acts as a revolving door for ample cosmic and cathartic support, beginning early as Dec. 2. Bolstered by expansive Jupiter and shadowy Pluto, the solar eclipse here on the 26th is joined by Mercury shortly thereafter, helping to discard some deep-rooted dross from your psyche – if you have the courage to talk about it. With these psychic speed bumps in your rearview, you’ll best utilize the clean-slate energy of your personal new moon on Jan. 24.

Birthday season could see you emerge as a sage in your chosen field within a month of Feb. 9.

leo

aquarius

We gotta run that race. Fasten your seatbelt! The solar eclipse on Dec. 26 shakes up group affiliations, paving the way for you to step into the driver’s seat, probably at work. From Jan 3 through most of February, your career is on fire as the planet of desire revs up your professional sector, insisting you bring your A-game. Venus’ timely influence from Jan. 13 helps you to look and feel your best while you find a rhythm (and stores of confidence!) amongst the changes. On Feb. 9, the full moon delivers a useful shift in the workplace, and the Pisces new moon on Feb. 23 ushers in fresh birthday-energy for … just about anything you want to manifest!

pisces Bring me a higher love. Dec. 12 serves up some closure in your career alongside rewards and accolades in spades – just in time for your creative renaissance in 2020! For an entire year and the first time in over 10, romance, inspiration and your deepest passions take center stage (behind YOU, of course!) when lucky Jupiter arrives to concretize your fifth-house endowment. The solar eclipse on Dec. 26 here insists it’s time to shed some outdated conditional underpinnings first, though (i.e., beliefs like: “I’m not an artist if it doesn’t pay my bills”) that veil your truest nature and, ergo, your most lovable self. Surrender to ‘living out loud,’ and you’ll find yourself aligned with the bounty of opportunities that surround you.

virgo

libra Underneath this smile lies everything. Happiness is an ‘inside job’ … but where? With so many blurred lines between home and career this year (and last), knowing 162

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