The Yak #49

Jl. Oberoi 3a, Seminyak / tel +62.361.736644 / www.quarzia.it

B I A S A G R O U P. C O M B A L I S E M I N YA K - S A N U R - U B U D | J A K A R TA K E M A N G

Koh & I nka Willia ms

Volume Forty-nine december/january/february 2015-2016

The Yak Magazine Sophie Digby, Agustina Ardie, Nigel Simmonds Creative Director Stuart Sullivan Sales & Marketing Peta Johnston, Amik Suhartin Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri, Ida Bagus Adi Accounting Julia Rulianti Distribution Made Marjana, Putu Widi Susanto, Gede Swastika, Kadek Eri Publisher PT Luxury In Print Licence AHU/47558/AH/01/01/2011 Advertising Enquiries Tel: (+62 361) 766 539, 085100431804, 085100431805, 085100431796

photo: amberly valentine. Styling: The Ö. Film & Edit: Dommy Hammond. producer: jen boshan. make-Up: tamika munro. hair: essensuals bali & juliette hauer. MODEL: AIYA @ BALI STARZ WEARS Teal silk jumpsuit by Off Duty. Blue silk shoes by Off Duty. Aquamarine & Diamond Earring

by Jemme Bali. Sapphire & white gold ring by Jemme Bali. LOCATION: THE MAN SHED SANUR. CAR: Holden FB Special 1960 by JRX.

www.theyakmag.com e: info@theyakmag.com, sales@theyakmag.com The Yak Magazine, Kompleks Perkantoran Simpang Siur Square, Jl. Setia Budi, Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia

OK you know the drill. No part of this publication may be copied or reproduced electronically or otherwise without prior permission from the Publisher.

Opinions expressed are those of the authors not the Publisher. The Publisher reserves the right to refuse advertising that does not comply with the

© PT Luxury In Print

magazine's design criteria. The Yak will not be held responsible for copyright infringements on images supplied directly by advertisers and/or contributors.

The Yak Magazine Bali.

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contents

Yak On

26

Calendar Contents

30

Yakety yak

dates with destiny

Giving Back

Out There

46

Gear

new in the hood

out of the box

96 14

Ornamental Conifer

58

Whulandary Herman

60

one world

34

52

design

people

people

Andi Yulianti

62

Alistair Toyne

64

Aliza Salviandra

people

people

126

66

Arturro Eggo

68

Aanoukis

70

people

people

yak fashion

Seconds Out

76

Art Collective

82

They Walk Among Us

52

artsake

yak fashion

46

www.facebook.com/ksenias.enko

22

The authentic taste of home-cooked Indonesian cuisine Now open for lunch.

Open daily 12 pm — 4 pm, 5 pm — midnight Potato Head Beach Club Jl. Petitenget No. 51 B, Seminyak, Bali, 80361 +62 361 4737977 reservation@ptthead.com lilin-bali.com

Jenja offers a majestic night out, from delicious cocktails to dancing until dawn.

jl. nakula barat 18, seminyak - bali

info@jenjabali.com

0811-3988-088

www.jenjabali.com

www.facebook.com/jenjabali

contents P.102: Omnibus: election dysfunction.

96 110 114 116 120

books

End Of The Game

feature

Bespoke

feature

Seminyak Village

fassions

Moto-x

events

The Yak Golf Invitational

70 20

126

Potato Head Cocktails

130

Lantern Bali

oral pleasures

oral pleasures

132

Big Six

136

The Layar

140

oral pleasures

venting in a villa

152 154

sounds around

Giacomo Maiolini

music reviews

Acoustica

156

What’s What

158

Horror Scope

advertiser’s directory

astro yak

fashion freestyle

Client Clobber

58

120

64

yakback With so much trouble in the world it’s nice to bring you a magazine full of the joys of spring (not to mention a few other seasons), especially at a time of year which many associate with the giving and receiving of love, surely a concept not lost on any of us, whatever deity we follow. We’re not going to get into the specifics here, but we think it’s pretty obvious to all but the most destructive of us that giving is always better than taking, kindness better than cruelty, charity better than selfishness and knowledge better than ignorance.

And so it’s a fair start to our tome this issue that we begin with One World, giving back to three awesome organisations in Bali who are prepared to make a difference: Sawah Bali, Rotary International and Yayasan Harapan Sumba. We move forward with Dates With Destiny, Post-it notes for the peripatetic among us; then to New In The Hood, where we detail happenings new and notable around our neck of the woods. Out Of The Box takes us to gear heaven, while we’re then happy to introduce you to the Ornamental Conifer himself Mr Nico Sclater. His world of wacky signage has worked well for many in the creative and commercial fields, and his art can be seen in campaigns from Deus to Nike.

Other notable peeps to appear in issue 49 include Whulan, whose background and ambition are commendable; Mr Brand himself Alistair Toyne and designer Arturro Eggo, Bali’s Robert Cavalli-to-be.

I think once you’ve flicked through the pages you will agree the fashion in this issue is outstanding – far beyond the norm, even for us. Mark Carolan brings it with his use of available light at the Frog Market, a treasure trove of second hand clothes in Tabanan, while Amberly Valentine creates an incredible off-planet world that’s really not very removed from reality. They Walk Among Us makes us proud to count her and her team among our associates. And then to the grist Mr Gava Fox brings his analysis of elections around the world, including America, where all the jokes appear to be at the expense of Mr Trump, a man who we should not forget has been married as many times as he has been bankrupt. We then celebrate our Yak events post Golf Invitational with a couple of gorgeous spreads paying homage to our sponsors, many of whom we count as friends.

We close with a whirl around The Layar, one special property among an island of fabulous digs, there’s a few words with Italian muso master Giacomo and it’s off for a cocktail or two at Potato Head, busy as ever. It’s all such a dream we decide to check out our stars in AstroYak – and you should too. Look upwards into the night sky and you will see us there, keeping the love alive.

May The Yak be with you.

24

Dear Yak, Just had a chance to have a look into the new mag. The Lake photo shoot is fantastic, so much character and atmosphere.

Congratulations. Let us know anytime if there is something we can do for you. Hope to see you soon.

Regards, Sebastian Liebold Sanak Retreat Bali A beautiful shoot and you sir have a beautiful property up there in the hills.

the Sands China Ltd umbrella: The Venetian, Conrad Macao, Holiday Inn Macao. We will also open the new St Regis hotel in our Sands Cotai Central complex in December. Do let me know if you are interested in a media trip, using our properties as backdrops for fashion shoots or if you are ever visiting Macao yourself.

Regards, Donna Campbell Sands China Ltd Bet the house on number 8. See you soon Macao. Whoop whoop!

Dear Yak, We have a couple of villas next to Tugu, Kakatua & Kedidi, which my wife runs with support from Elite Havens. We make sure there is always a Yak mag in each villa for our guests, but it usually gets nicked before we get there!

Hope to catch up some time when we are in Bali.

Cheers, Alan Nicked copies, taken back to all parts of the world. It’s our best distribution channel!

Dear Yak, As always you keep producing superb magazines every issue, year after year Sophie Digby and Nigel Simmonds.

Regards, Mike Pohorly Love your work too bro.

Dear Yak, Greetings from Macao. I was in Bali last week and picked up a copy of your magazine so just wanted to take this opportunity to touch base and introduce our properties under

Dear Yak, A short note to thank you so much for the beautiful review of the Sushi by the Sea at Tugu! I hope I will get to catch up with you all soon!

Big hugs.

Lucienne, Tugu Hotels and Resorts Our pleasure as always.

In The Lap Of: Naomi Campbell Was it her? Of course it wouldn’t surprise us that Franklin Firdaus of Franksland fame would be hanging with Naomi at Seminyak Village, but then one never knows these days, what with the proliferation of gorgeous girls of the Campbell style in Bali, not the mention the mischievious workings of fake Facebook claims. Anyway we prefer to believe in the dream.

Don’t be a stranger Miss C.!

JL Pangkung Sari 10A, Seminyak, Bali, Indonesia I info@settimocielobali.com Reservation : +62 361 4741 117 I +62 361 4741 118 I Office : +62 361 4741 116

WWW.SETTIMOCIELOBALI.COM

calendar

global diary entries for the coming quarter.

Jakarta International Java Jazz Festival Now in its 12th year, the Java Jazz Festival is one of the biggest jazz festivals in the world, attracting thousands of fans who flock to Jakarta to groove out to a diverse mix of performances by top local and international musicians. Past acts have included Stevie Wonder, Santana and Natalie Cole, as well as Indonesian stars like Tohpati, Balawan and Maliq & D’Essentials. The festival will take place at the Jakarta International Expo from March 4 to March 6 with pre-events happening around Jakarta starting in mid-January. Topping their line-up wish list are artists like The Buena Vista Social Club, Chris Botti featuring Sting, and Benny Likumahuwa. www.javajazzfestival.com Chinese New Year Come February major cities across Southeast Asia will be awash in a sea of red lanterns, fireworks and vibrant dragon dances to ring in the Chinese New Year. February 8th marks the start of the year of the Monkey, and astrologers predict that this year will be progressive

IF YOU’RE IN SINGAPORE… January 2 to January 6 — Shipsomnia: You may want to stay in this New Year’s Eve and save your energy, because January 2nd marks the first ever Shipsomnia festival cruise, a five-day, four-night celebration of music, partying and travelling aboard the Costa Victoria cruise ship. Brought to us by Mad Fresh Events, this high-energy cruise will include five party zones on the ship with bad-ass sets by over 40 DJs, an exclusive beach party in Phuket, concerts, tours and games in Langkawi, and much more.

And if that’s not enough to get you stoked to sail, part of the proceeds from the cruise will go to a non-profit organisation that supports ocean conservation and preservation.

January 17 to January 25 — Singapore Art Week: Kick off the new year with a bit of culture at the Singapore Art Fair, which will feature more than 100 art events over nine days including world-class exhibitions, public art walks, film screenings and free talks by cutting edge artists. The pillar event is Art Stage Singapore, Southeast Asia’s leading contemporary art fair that brings together galleries from across the region and showcases established and upand-coming contemporary artists from around the world.

Singapore Art Week will take place in multiple venues across the city including museums, art precincts and nonprofit spaces.

February 19 to February 21 — Chingay Parade: Since its first appearance in 1973, the Chingay Parade has become a lunar new year tradition in Singapore, and it is now the largest street performance and float parade in all of Asia. Guests can expect an extravaganza of vibrant floats, dancing dragons, prancing lions, stilt walkers and kung-fu masters, as well as a variety of multi-ethnic performances 28

with great opportunities for business ventures and realising new ideas. The best places in the region to celebrate the lunar new year are Singapore, Malaysia, Vietnam, Hong Kong, and of course China. The festivities generally run for two weeks, and you can expect to find a ton of parties going on with great food, music and spirited dance performances.

Winter Light Festival Winter in certain parts of Japan may be cold and dark, but Japan’s biggest light festival brightens things up and adds a dreamy quality to the season. The Winter Light Festival takes place at Nabana No Sato, a botanical garden and onsen (hot spring spa) in the city of Kuwana, and it includes spectacular light displays in the form of oceans, mountains, flowers and the famous Tunnel of Light. Created with over seven million LED lights in a riot of colours, the displays are open for viewing every night from mid-November to mid-March.

Your entrance fee also includes vouchers that can be used at the restaurants and beer gardens in the park.

that epitomise Singapore’s dynamic multicultural makeup.

The main parade will take place in the F1 Pit Building at 8pm on the Friday and Saturday nights, followed by the Chingay Night Festival on Sunday at Bishan - Ang Mo Kio Park.

IF YOU’RE IN THE USA… December 29 - December 31 — Snowglobe Music Festival (Lake Tahoe, California): Hit the slopes by day and groove out to big-name DJs, bands and hip-hop artists by night at the Snowglobe Music Festival in Lake Tahoe on the border of California and Nevada. Head to the openair main stage and watch pro skiers and snowboarders drop down the specially built ramp and pull off sick tricks while bands rock out under the stars. There are also semicovered and enclosed stages, plus a heated tent with a fully stocked bar where you can warm up with some bevvies before dancing until dawn.

January 21 to January 31 — Sundance Film Festival (Park City, Utah): Where else can you combine a fab skiing and snowboarding holiday with star-studded red carpets and world premieres than at the Sundance Film Festival, North America’s most famous film industry event? Taking place over 10 days, this fabulous winter festival features over 100 films with a focus on edgy and innovative indie flicks, as well as panels by actors and directors, and a myriad of blockbuster parties. Throughout the festival you can also enjoy world-class restaurants, shops and live music venues in Park City, or hit up the slopes at one of the ski resorts just a short drive from town.

IF YOU’RE IN NEW ZEALAND… January 14 to January 24 — World Buskers Festival (Christchurch): Eccentricity is key at the World Buskers

Festival, where you will find a mix of unconventional performers including acrobats, dancers, mimes, and contortionists putting on their street shows for throngs of spectators. The festival will also host a number of fringe theatre performances such as burlesque shows and comedy acts aimed at older audiences. Festival events have been planned around the city at venues as diverse as basketball courts and casinos, and many of the shows are completely free.

February 5 to February 26 — Cirque du Soleil: Quidam (Auckland and Christchurch): Fans of Cirque du Soleil’s classic show Quidam have one last chance to see it on stage before the circus troupe retires the show at the end of the Christchurch season. Featuring 46 acrobats, musicians, singers and actors, Quidam tells the story of a young girl who is bored with her life, so she escapes to an imaginary world where she meets characters who inspire her to free her soul. You can catch the performance at the Vector Arena in Auckland from February 5 to February 14, or the Horncastle Arena in Christchurch from February 17 to February 26.

February 20 to February 22 — Splore (Tapapakanga Regional Park): Summertime in New Zealand is all about the outdoor festivals, and Splore is one of the most popular for its beguiling location on the shores of the Tapapakanga Regional Park, fabulous live music acts, and artsy atmosphere that encourages festival goers to become as much a part of the show as the musicians on stage. Splore takes place over three days, so most revellers opt to camp out at the free campgrounds in the park. You can also reserve dedicated campsites to make sure you secure your spot.

THE OFFER OF AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE Awan Biru is one of the most luxurious villas offered in the serene environment of Ubud. With uninterrupted 360 degree views of rice paddy, forest, river gorge and Mount Agung, Awan Biru is a fantastic opportunity for the astute investor to operate as a retreat spa and or expand on the vast land parcel on offer.

With its beautifully appointed 5 bedrooms and 1200 sqm of internal space, Awan Biru is truly unique to the Ubud area.

Facilities included an amazing 132 sqm swimming pool, well appointed gym and a 9 hole Japanese designed putting course.

Contact us for more details.

Jalan Sunset Road #10X, Seminyak, Bali - Indonesia Phone: +62 361 8475955 | Mobile/Whatsapp/Line: +628113973555 | Fax: +62 361 8475682 | Email: info@xpbali.com www.xpbali.com

don’t wait another 38 years . . .

This year will be the first Christmas full moon in 38 years - yet another reason to experience the energy and beauty of Full Moon Yoga on the new river-edge yoga terrace at Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan.

This open-air venue on the banks of the Ayung is the latest addition to the the Resort’s dynamic wellbeing program. It follows the opening of the Elora Hardy-designed Dharma Shanti Yoga Bale, which offers Bali’s first certified AntiGravity® Yoga, Laughing Yoga, Life Talks with a former Buddhist Nun, and a program of International masters-in-residence.

For the full schedule of daily yoga classes and packages, visit fourseasons.com/sayan

Full Moon ‘Purnama’ Yoga Rp 300,000++ per person 7.30pm every full moon: 25 December, 24 January, 23 February AntiGravity® Yoga Rp 600,000++ per person or Rp1,100,000++ per couple 11am daily (except Thursdaya) Dharma Shanti Package Rp 900,000++ per person including AntiGravity® Yoga and lunch at Riverside Café

SIGN UP TO THE COWORKING SPACE IN SEMINYAK Connect@Pepperssentosa is a unique space that puts the best of the office & recreation together. Combining work & play, it’s a space designed for you to be able to unwind and still stay connected.

We offer 10% discount for The Yak readers.

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For more information please contact 730 333 or email connect@peppersseminyak.com PEPPERS SEMINYAK BALI Jl. Pura Telaga Waja, Petitenget, Seminyak - Bali 80361 Phone +62 361 730 333 e. info@peppersseminyak.com • www.peppersseminyak.com

giving back

Stephanie Mee gets on her charity horsE.

Sawah Bali Step back in time 20 years and Bali was a vastly different place. Canggu was little more than a checkerboard of rice fields spreading out to the sea, and the hillside environs of Ubud were dotted with rice farmers harvesting an abundance of crops. Flash-forward to the present and many of those swathes of green have now been replaced with villas, hotels, restaurants and shops.

Bali used to be the one of the most prolific rice growing regions in Indonesia, mostly due to the impressive subak system that democratically distributes water to rice paddies around the island. In fact, the cultural landscape of Bali and its subak system is listed as a UNESCO Living World Heritage Site.

However, rampant overdevelopment is now claiming close to 1,000 hectares of farmland a year, and as a result, Bali now relies heavily on rice imported from India and Vietnam. In addition, ancient landscapes and traditions like the subak system are being disrupted and threatened.

Sawah Bali was formed in response to this building boom and the problems it is creating, not the least of which are water and food shortages, the destruction of fragile ecosystems, the loss of ancestral land and cultural identity, and land speculation that has created an unsustainable real estate bubble. The organisation aims to conserve and sustain a working agricultural landscape in Bali and create new economic opportunities for Bali’s farming families.

Wholly controlled and managed by Balinese and Indonesians, Sawah Bali has been listening and responding to the specific needs of farmers in Bali and building partnerships with academics, technical advisors, and the UNESCO Governing Assembly to create a five-step plan that will encourage farmers to conserve their land and adopt new methods of farming to secure economic gains from their crops.

You can help create a brighter future for Bali’s farming families by joining Sawah Bali’s volunteer programme and working with like-minded people on a sustainable farm in a small Balinese village. Here you will learn about permaculture and sustainability, become immersed in the community and culture, and share knowledge and ideas to help protect Bali’s world-famous landscape and agricultural traditions. Visit Sawah Bali’s website to find out more about volunteering or to contribute to their projects. www.sawahbali.org Rotary International Made up of a diverse mix of business and professional leaders from around the globe, Rotary International is a non-political and non-religious organisation that aims to provide humanitarian service, inspire high ethical standards in all vocations, and promote goodwill and peace around the world.

Since its humble beginnings in Chicago in 1905, the organisation has expanded to over 160 countries and now boasts over 34,000 clubs and 1.2 million members or Rotarians worldwide. Each individual club aims to uphold the motto ‘Service Above Self’ by carrying out projects that address the most pressing current issues like poverty, literacy, health and hygiene and the environment.

Here in Bali you can find Rotary International clubs in a number of cities and towns including Seminyak, Kuta, Canggu, Nusa Dua, Ubud and Denpasar. The clubs are open to people of all cultures, races and creeds, and they meet once a week to foster friendship and discuss current and future projects. Although the clubs often work in tandem with other RI clubs here in Bali and abroad, each club has its own local projects that they support.

32

For example, Rotary Club Bali Nusa Dua’s main objective is to provide free cleft palate and hare lip surgery to underprivileged children on Bali and the surrounding islands.

Since they started the program in 1994, they have provided over 1,400 children with craniofacial operations. In addition, they also support blood banks, HIV/AIDS training for midwives, and waste management and environmental awareness programs.

Rotary Club Bali Ubud Sunset has also been instrumental in effecting change in their community and farther afield with past projects that include making water available year-round to the remote village of Temukus in Karangasem, and funding Klinik Anggrek, an HIV and STD clinic in Sayan. Their current projects include the Banjar Aas Water Project and a joint effort with the Biosphere Foundation to research and promote sustainable dry land farming in Buleleng.

Although Rotary Club Bali Canggu is only four years old, they have already been making waves with their Nippers program every Sunday at Batu Bolong Beach that teaches young people beach safety and swimming lessons. In addition, they have initiated organic composting and school waste management programs, a water tank and sanitation project in Karangasem, and ‘Project Helmetman’ to assist in coordinating the sponsorship, manufacture and distribution of free helmets for kindergarten children in South Bali The Rotary Clubs depend on voluntary contributions from Rotarians and other people who share their vision of a better world. To find out more or to donate to their causes, visit their individual websites or stop by for a meeting, as most clubs warmly welcome guests.

Yayasan Harapan Sumba Far removed from the skyscrapers of Jakarta and the glitzy beach clubs of Bali, West Sumba is one of the poorest provinces in Indonesia. Here most people rely on subsistence farming, and over 44 per cent of the population live below the poverty level.

Education is dismal with only 20 per cent of children continuing on past elementary school. Basic needs like nutritious food, clean water and healthcare are scarce, so malnourishment and diseases like malaria, dengue fever and typhus are rife.

In the past, the government and local and international NGOs attempted to implement programs to try to alleviate the conditions of the villagers in West Sumba, but many floundered as they failed to create a sense of local ownership or provide training so that the local people could sustainably carry on the missives. It wasn’t until Yayasan Harapan Sumba stepped in and began working in partnership with the villagers that real change started to come about.

Yayasan Harapan Sumba stands for ‘Project Hope Sumba’, and they are a non-profit, non-political and non-religious community-based development organisation that aims to bring sustainable improvement to the lives of the people of West Sumba. To do this they collaborate with the villagers, local government and the local hospital to address basic needs like clean water, sanitation, education, healthcare and sustainable livelihoods.

Part of the reason that YHS is so effective is that they directly involve the villagers in the development projects. For example, when they build rainwater catchment tanks, they provide the non-local materials like cement and pipes and the villagers provide the stone and labour. Knowledge dissemination is also extremely important to their mission, so they provide training in basic nutrition, health and sanitation, better farming practices, and even how to provide therapy for disabled children. To aid YHS and their partners in improving lives in this impoverished region, visit their website to make a donation. www.projecthopesumba.org

BEST OF BRITISH IN BALI We’re all about great pub life at The Orchard. Great beer, great food, great live music.

Your home away from home.

JALAN NAKULA, GANG BAIK NO. 99X

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THEORCHARDBALI

Authentic Japanese Cuisine

Authentic Japanese Brunch As the first and only Japanese Brunch since 2011, we bring you a selection of authentic dishes in the contemporary setting of Benkay Japanese Restaurant.

IDR 480,000 net per person Endless spread of Japanese dishes | Free flow green tea | One sake shooter or Sapporo beer Complimentary day pass to enjoy our 4 inter-connected swimming pools and white sand beach.

BENKAY JAPANESE RESTAURANT AT GRAND NIKKO BALI Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan +62 361 773 377 | tourdesk@grandnikkobali.com | www.grandnikkobali.com Grand Nikko Bali

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MKN NUE x Religion Clothing label Religion is embarking on new design collaborations to continue to stay ahead of the innovation game. The first collaborative venture to roll out is with the complementary lingerie label MKN NUE. Bali has become firmly placed on Fashion International’s map and the company is pleased to have discovered French Vietnamese designer and stylist MKN NUE. Her signature style mixes minimalism and sensuality. For the last three years, Religion has supported student industry project’s in the UK as it recognizes the benefits of these exchanges as well as the obvious support to young designers who may not otherwise be able to expand their design into an international marketplace. The creative team combined with MKHnue’s cool take on ultra-feminine staples has resulted in this small taster lingerie range into the Bali stores. www.religionclothing.com

DELISH DUCK Tapis Restaurant at Kayumanis Jimbaran is now offering a flavourful new dish that celebrates Bali’s colourful Hindu heritage. Duck is the only type of meat that high-caste priests on the island are permitted to eat and it is invariably served after a ceremony has been performed.

Existing on both land and in water, the duck has great spiritual significance and is considered somewhat of a local delicacy. Stop by Tapis’ elegant garden venue to sample their set Bebek Panggang Mekudus dinner that consists of duck marinated in Balinese spices and served on a charcoal clay grill that adds a smoky flavour. Sides include minced chicken on lemongrass skewers, a clear broth with chicken balls and cucumber, mixed vegetables and spicy sambal.

Tel: 0361 705777 www.kayumanis.com

ORGANIC ART French artist Mickael Obrenovitch is renowned for his dramatic wood sculptures that make use of centuries-old tree stumps found on Java and previously abandoned after rainforest clearance. He works with the natural contours of the wood and uses Balinese carving techniques to create unique pieces that speak to us about our connection to nature and our own human nature. His latest collection, Lifetime, will be on display and available for purchase at the luxurious five-star Pullman Bali Legian Nirwana from December 8 to March 6. These impressive works showcase the effect of time on the surfaces of the wood as a mirror of life, and with them the artist also hopes to raise awareness about Indonesian rainforest preservation.

Tel: 0361 762500 www.pullmanhotels.com

ALILA SEMINYAK After much anticipation, the Alila brand has finally unveiled its fifth property, the uberchic Alila Seminyak on Bali’s southwest coast. Featuring a prime beachfront location, shimmering pools cascading from vertical gardens, and 240 contemporary rooms plus one stunning penthouse, the property is already drawing in the jet set. If you can tear yourself away from one of the many luscious chill-out spots here, you can experience cooking classes at the resort’s gourmet restaurant, practise the art of mixology in the resort’s ground-breaking Cocktail Lab, or get out and explore the island and Balinese culture with one of their unique Alila Experiences.

Tel: 0361 3021888 www.alilahotels.com/seminyak

MUY DELICIOSO You can’t go wrong with good old Western comfort food like pastas, sandwiches, steaks and cakes, especially when those dishes are served at great prices in a chilled-out locale in the heart of Kerobokan. Delicioso Bistro & Restaurant is the newest kid on the block serving up fresh fare from morning to night. Head here in the AM for pastries and healthy juices, swing by for light bites like salads and soups at lunch, or tuck into hearty dinner time fare like the grilled lamb chops, salmon filet or German meatballs. Be sure to save room for their divine sweet treats.

Tel: 0361 8499346 www.deliciosobali.com 36

“ONE OF THE GREATEST COURSES IN THE WORLD” - Golf Magazine -

160 hectares of world class design.

130 experienced caddies. 20 degrees Celsius.

18 holes. One great game.

HANDARA GOLF & RESORT BALI t : +62 361 288944

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ST. REGIS FESTIVE SEASON The St. Regis Bali Resort is staying true to the Astor family traditions by offering a range of festive holiday perks that will pamper you and your loved ones. Pick up a bespoke holiday hamper filled with cookies, puddings and chocolate truffles at Gourmand Deli, or indulge in an exquisite array of holiday treats like lobster pie and freshly baked scones with clotted cream while listening to carols during Afternoon Tea at the King Cole Bar. On December 24 and 25 Kayuputi will host a lavish 6-course degustation menu featuring decadent dishes like foie gras and veal, while Boneka will host a gala buffet including turkey dinner with all the fixings and luxe extras. And of course in true St. Regis style, extraordinary brunches will take place on Christmas morning and New Year’s Day. Tel: 0361 8478111 www.stregisbali.com

THE JEWEL BOX As if Bali wasn’t already a dreamy enough location to say your vows, the Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort has just unveiled a stunning new wedding venue. The Jewel Box sits on the eastern beachfront of the resort and features a marble entrance, cool climate controlled interior that can seat up to 80 guests, and floor-to-ceiling glass windows on all sides that offer views of the ocean. The venue is surrounded by lush tropical gardens and expansive lawns that are perfect for wedding receptions of up to 200 people. Moreover, the expert InspiredMeetings™ team will customise your ceremony and make sure every detail of your special day is flawless.

Tel: 0361 8492888 www.sofitel.com

CLASSY CO-WORKING SPACE When was the last time you actually looked forward to going to work? With Peppers Sentosa’s new co–working program, Connect@, you can get down to business with lightning fast Internet and state-of-the-art facilities like private meeting and Skype rooms amid the environs of a five-star resort. Whether you’re on holiday for a few days or have decided to call Bali home, Connect@ offers a range of cool co-working packages by the day, week and month. Members can cool off between emails with a dip in the lagoon-style pool, work out at the gym, and receive great discounts on food, beverages and spa treatments.

Tel: 0361 730333 www.peppersseminyak.com

VIVA LA VILLAS The Kamuela and Royal Kamuela Villas are fast gaining popularity amongst honeymooners and holidaymakers seeking elegant digs that are both peaceful and private. Their intimate resorts include Kamuela Seminyak with its self-contained villas just steps from Bali’s best shopping and nightlife, Kamuela Villas & Suites Sanur with chic Jacuzzi suites and private pool villas close to the beach, and the Royal Kamuela Ubud with sleek one-bedroom pool villas exclusively for adults. Besides the beautiful settings, the intriguing design and outstanding service places Kamuela Villas amongst Bali’s finest.

Tel: 0361 8468684 www.kamuelavillas.com

FUSION FARE AT KILO Despite its primo location in the heart of Seminyak, Kilo Bali manages to be a quiet oasis where drinkers and diners can gather in the modern minimalist space to celebrate the good things in life with great food and drink. This relative newbie to the south Bali dining scene has recently launched an exciting new dinner menu created by Executive Chef Manel Valero, who takes inspiration from his background and the region to present dishes that present the best of Kilo’s fusion cuisine. The menu encompasses a wide range of textures and vibrant flavours, and blends influences from Japan, Southeast Asia, Italy, South America, and Korea among others.

Tel: 0361 4741006 www.kilokitchen.com

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EFFORTLESS ELEGANCE BIASA’s latest Fall 2016 line has already hit the racks with tailored linen looks suited to adventures in tropical cities, stylishly loose-cut silhouettes including oversized shirts and kaftans, Mondrian-inspired striped patterns and more. This season, BIASA draws colour inspiration from the distant lands of Africa, using a warm and natural, pottery-inspired palette made up of cinnamon, khaki, amber, ginger and cranberry with a touch of cool greys and blues to compliment. For both men and women who live a little bit differently and seek extraordinary simplicity in all they do, this is the line for you.

Tel: 0361 730945 www.biasagroup.com

TAKSU BALI GALLERY The word Taksu means divine inspiration, energy, and spirit, all qualities that TAKSU Gallery has in spades. Located in the W Retreat & Spa Bali, the gallery showcases extraordinary young Indonesian artists who are producing fine art with a distinctive urban edge.

Throughout the year, TAKSU hosts a series of group exhibitions at the gallery, each one unveiling unique new pieces that will stoke the imagination. They also offer residency programmes at their locations in Bali, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore so that established and emerging artists can share their creativity and knowledge.

Tel: 0361 4738106 www.taksu.com

INNOVATIVE CLIFFTOP DINING Tirtha Dining is best known for its gorgeous clifftop location, its contemporary design with unique water features, and their fine fare. Now with the appointment of Executive chef Ryoichi Kano, they are also making waves for their new menu that features creative fusion cuisine. Chef Ryoichi’s culinary repertoire includes a solid foundation in French, Italian and Japanese cooking, and he combines these elements with local ingredients at Tirtha to create cuisine that really steps outside the box. Think poached lobster with San Daniele ham, watermelon gazpacho and sherry vinegar foam, or panseared fish with a parsley butter sauce and thyme flavoured ratatouille.

Tel: 0361 8471151 www.tirthadining.net 40

WARUNG ON WHEELS Finally Bali has a 24-hour booze delivery service that makes all those wobbly late-night trips to the nearest convenient store a thing of the past.

Warung on Wheels offers a range of quality wines, spirits and beers, plus mixers, snacks, cigars, cigarettes, and health and hygiene products that you can order online and have delivered directly to your door any time of the day or night regardless of rain, hail or shine.

All of their products are genuine and legal, and because they don’t pay rent on a brick and mortar shop, they manage to pass those savings on to the customer with prices that are some of the lowest on the island. Delivery is free for orders over IDR 200,000, and they aim to deliver within 30 minutes.

Tel: 0853 33555333 www.warungonwheels.com THE ONE LEGIAN Changes are afoot at The 101 Bali Legian with a new name change to The ONE Legian and an inspired New Urban Legend concept. The changes are the result of extensive revamps like the addition of the new Deluxe Wing Extension with 103 Deluxe Rooms, plus additional pools and restaurants. In addition, the hotel recently jumped to an official and well-deserved four-star rating. Guests can expect the same outstanding service that put the hotel on the map in the first place, as well as superior facilities and sleek design at the new and improved The ONE Legian.

Tel: 0361 3001101 www.theonelegian.com

The Barbie Boys We love Barbacoa. The food, the locale, the lighting, the staff and of course the drinks!

More in love now than ever with their downstairs terrace overlooking “little seen in Seminyak” rice padi fields! Even better is their loft-style dining area upstairs, complete with private balcony tailor-made for private stand up cocktail functions or large sit-down dinner parties. So open your contacts and grab 20 to 100 of your besties and make an excuse to have a laid-back yet chic party up in the loft! Perfect for the upcoming festive!

Tel: 739233 www.barbacoa.com SUARGA PADANG PADANG Clifftop luxury is so our style, which is why Suarga Padang Padang is definitely on our radar. Gracefully terraced along the dramatic cliffs of Bali’s fabled southern peninsula just minutes from some of Indonesia’s best surf breaks, Suarga Padang Padang by Peppers is a sustainable boutique resort with 36 rooms, pavilions and villas, and a contemporary restaurant and elegant lounge bar offering sweeping views of the ocean. Adding to its charm, the resort was thoughtfully designed to blend modern luxury with a minimal impact on the environment.

Tel: 0361 4725088 www.suarga.com

Savour the finest classic Italian cuisine in Seminyak, Bali.

OPENS DAILY

11:30AM TO MIDNIGHT Featuring an all-day menu of classic Italian specialties, finest wines and cocktails.

GOLF GETAWAYS Escape the heat this holiday season and get some amazing days out on the greens at the Handara Golf & Country Club. Nestled in the crater of an extinct volcano and surrounded by lush green mountains, crater lakes and an equatorial rain forest, the resort offers Golf View Deluxe Rooms, Suites and Villas that place you just steps from their stunning 18-hole course. The rooms feature private balconies with views out to the course, the surrounding mountains and the sun setting over Lake Buyan. Inside you will find stylish furnishings and all the amenities you need for a memorable golf holiday in Bali’s cooler highlands.

Tel: 0361 288944 www.balihandaracountryclub.com

SEEKING OUT SARONGS Ever wondered how they make those gorgeous sarongs you see the Balinese sporting around the island? Now you can get a behind-the-scenes look at what goes into creating them, as well as all the details about how and why people wear them with the Sarong Concierge programme at The Ritz-Carlton, Bali. This half-day journey invites guests to discover the many different kinds of Balinese textiles and marvel at the creation process at an authentic artisan workshop. Completing the experience, guests will learn about proper sarong etiquette and have the opportunity to wear one amongst the local community with a cultural visit to a nearby Hindu temple.

Tel: 0361 8498988

www.ritzcarlton.com/bali

CHRISTMAS FULL MOON YOGA To celebrate the first full moon to fall on Christmas Day in 38 years, the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan is planning a magical Full Moon Christmas Yoga session on its dramatic new yoga deck. Perched on the banks of the Ayung River, the resort’s Dharma Shanti River Terrace provides a beautiful open-air venue for a very special evening that will include yoga salutations and meditation under the glow of the full moon and twinkling stars. Other highlights of the Four Season’s festive programme include Santa’s arrival by river raft, New Year’s Eve meditation, ‘flying’ AntiGravity Yoga, riverstone bathing rituals and sumptuous dining options.

Tel: 0361 977577 www.fourseasons.com/sayan 42

LATE NIGHT GROOVING Koh is shaking things up in the Seminyak nightlife scene with their cutting-edge space where music, art and experience collide. Koh is the artistic vision of designer Josh Clapp, who was responsible for Sydney bars El Topo and the award-winning Lobo Plantation. The ground floor resembles a concrete bunker designed from the sound system outwards, while the upstairs lounge harks back to Europe circa the 1930’s, replete with an outdoor balcony terrace. Revellers can get down to the latest house and techno beats and mingle on the dance floor in an unpretentious easy-going atmosphere. www.kohbali.com ROOFTOP BITES Just another reason to visit Luna Roof Bar at L Hotel Seminyak, they’ve now got a brand new menu of inspired epicurean bites to go along with their killer cocktail list and fab views over Bali’s skyline. The new menu is the brainchild of Tony Foerg, an accomplished chef and culinary consultant with 15 years in the industry including stints at Bridges Bali and The Royal Pita Maha. Get a taste of his culinary expertise with dishes like the Devils on Horseback with bacon, prunes and feta cheese, or the light and tasty ginger lemongrass crab cakes. Pair your meal with innovative cocktails made with premium ingredients and local spices.

Tel: 0361 8947898 www.thelhotels.com

Skin By Cocoon Medical Spa

Fashion By Little Joe Woman by Gail Elliott "After just one facial my skin feels rejuvenated, hydrated and fresh. It’s the perfect treatment if I have a special event or simply if my skin is in need of a boost to make it glow.“ - Gail Elliott

Skin Rejuvenation: · PRP · Lasers · Dermapen · Mesotherapy · Diamond Microdermabrasion · Oxygen Jet Peel · Gold Carat Facials · Fillers · Botox Lifting and Firming: · HIFU (Ultherapy) · RF Microneedling · Velashape Fat Loss · Colon Hydrotherapy · Vitamin IV · Salt Room

Co Founder & Creative Director, Gail Elliott of Little Joe Woman wears the Rock Your Baby blazer in black caviar.

LITTLE JOE WOMAN Store: Jl. Petitenget 198, Seminyak 0361 4735 964 Shop online at: www.LittleJoeWoman.com

COCOON MEDICAL SPA LEGIAN Jl. Sunset Road, Legian 0811 388 2240 COCOON MEDICAL SPA UBUD Jl. 8 Monkey Forest Road, Ubud 0811 388 2241 info@cocoonmedicalspa.com www.cocoonmedicalspa.com

MILK THE GOAT Milk the Goat is a self-described “California Pinup Hippie” fashion label created for people who love travel, surf, laughing, and life. Head designer Nicole Kunz, her GOAT, and fellow Milkmaids believe the world is their playground, and their adventures gallivanting across the globe have inspired them to create a unique line for eclectic bohemian spirits that includes clothing, jewellery, and swimwear. You can find their unique pieces in their online store along with other labels by emerging designers, and one-of-a-kind items found during their travels.

Tel: 0812 46762798 www.milkthegoat.com

ROOFTOP REVELRY When a luxurious five-star property like The Trans Resort Bali opens a chic rooftop bar high above the beating heart of Seminyak, you just know it is going to be something special.

Located on the seventh floor of the resort, The 18th Rooftop Bar welcomed former president Pak Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono for its grand opening in July, and since then it has become a hotspot for jet setters from around the world who come for the sophisticated ambiance, seductive martinis, and spectacular sunsets. The spacious wooden deck has plenty of places to settle under the stars or protective glass shades, and the circular bar makes for the ideal spot to nosh on some tapas and meet old friends and new.

0361 8981234 www.transresortbali.com Karma’s XP Offer Karma Kandara, the world famous five star luxury resort winner of the small luxury hotel awards, offers a unique lifestyle opportunity on the island of the gods. Villa 11, which is a privately owned slice of paradise, is the last freehold cliff top beach villa available. The view encompasses spectacular sunrise and sunset in private tropical surroundings, with cool fresh sea breezes providing the ideal environment for pure relaxation. The private beach club has its own lagoon of fresh crystal clear sea water, private spa, white sandy beach and safe swimming. The villa is a 40-minute drive from the airport, and 15 minutes from a world class 18 hole golf club. There’s four different signature bedrooms all with ensuite and an 18-metre private infinity pool that looks out over the endless Indian ocean. It’s an exceptional spot with a proven track record. If you’re interested contact XP Properties who will talk you through the purchase.

Tel: (0361) 8475955 www.xpbali.com 44

BULGARI WEDDING CHAPEL For lovebirds looking to get hitched in a stylish and very special spot in 2016. Bulgari has just unveiled their supremely scenic wedding chapel perched on the edge of a cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean. This gorgeous venue was designed with a blend of modern Balinese architecture and Italian sophistication using Paras Kerobokan stone from Bali and handcrafted floor-to-ceiling glass panelling. Behind the altar is a glass wall that can be opened for semi-outdoor ceremonies. Next to the chapel you will find the Pavilion Terrace with over 300 square meters of manicured lawns that provide the perfect setting for receptions set against the backdrop of the sea.

Tel: 0361 8471000 www.bulgarihotels.com TIGER PALM It seems Will Meyrick and the Sarong Group are unstoppable forces with their string of wildly successful restaurant concepts scattered around the island including flagship finedining spot Sarong, and sister restaurants Mama San and Hujan Locale. Now they bring us a taste of Malaysia with Tiger Palm, a newly opened eatery in Village, Seminyak’s hot new shopping and dining destination. The eclectic decor at Tiger Palm includes elements of tropical mid-century modernism and Tikipop highlights, while the menu is made up of diverse dishes like rich curries, soft rice noodles, and subtly spiced fresh fish.

Tel: 0361 4737809 www.willmeyrick.com

PURE PAMPERING More of a good thing is a great thing with the latest spa expansion from The Shampoo Lounge. The spa draws heavily on the owner’s Javanese roots and ties together perfectly with the upbeat, friendly atmosphere of the adjacent salon and gentlemen’s barbershop. Here you’ll find a treasure trove of styling, pampering, and classic men’s barbering options all served up professionally and with a bit of bubbly or Bintang for the adults and smiling attention to the kids in tow. Indulge in massages with a Javanese flair, manis and pedis and hair treatments, as well as other aesthetic services like waxing and spray tanning.

Tel: 0361 730035 www.shampoolounge.com

www.sunbrella.com/yak

SUNBRELLA® IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF GLEN RAVEN, INC.

Gear for goths and other aliens.

VOID watch www.burobali.com

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Eytys ‘Mother’ available at Escalier

BREAD & BUTTER (Blush, Pink Mirror Lenses)

TOKEN - men’s boots by Religion

www.escalier-store.com

www.paredeyewear.com

www.religionclothing.com

Deus Ex Machina X The Barstow Goggle IDR 1.800.000

Deus Lee Crew IDR 720.000

id.deuscustoms.com

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Victorian One www.ktjewel.com

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shan shan collection www.shan-shan.info

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What the mind can conceive, it can achieve

Helping business professionals achieve their goals for almost 20 years. Facilities, services and rooms designed for those who are chasing excellence.

42 locations available in every major city in the Indonesian Archipelago

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ELEGANCE, QUALITY, AND TIMELESSNESS.

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Jl. Danau Tamblingan No 35, Sanur, Bali 80227 Indonesia T. +62 0882 1908 3258 E. info@maja-living.com

www.maja-living.com

design

Tony Stanton raps with Nicolai Sclater aka Ornamental Conifer to talk signage, screen printing and painting aeroplanes. Photos: Arief Budiatna.

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wall art and Nico.

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design

signs of the times.

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Hi Nico. Funny, my daughter’s name is Nico, but she was named after the Danish songstress from The Velvet Underground. I’m guessing you’re not Danish . . . where are you from, and how did you grow up?

My name stems form the Norwegian side of my family, but I grew up in southern Wales and England . . . although I currently live in Los Angeles.

When did the pen start to move? Did you doodle in maths class?

I always drew as a kid as my parents encouraged me very early on to make stuff rather than buy stuff, we weren’t allowed video games and we didn’t get a TV until I was already beyond obsessed with drawing. It was perfect – I was kid who was always on the move, with a backpack full of pens and paint and sketchbooks. Then later on as I grew older that bag became full of spray paint and I spent years obsessed with putting my name everywhere I went, until responsibility kicked in and I started to fear the cops. I rarely went to maths class.

Did you ever have a ‘proper’ job, or was it all tagging and graffiti and bunking off school?

My first ever proper job was in a car spares shop, the same shop I used to steal paint from. I got the job there so I could steal boxes of paint from the warehouse rather than single cans from the shop. That job lasted almost a year until they noticed, then I moved to another car shop and did the same, only those guys clocked on pretty quick. I also did a few stints in kitchens, as most teenagers do, washing dishes, chopping veggies, stealing wine.

When did art start to support you financially?

I guess my commercial art career began after I graduated. I studied graphic design, as I loved typography, and spent my whole three years focused on making things by hand – whether that was screen prints, letterpress, painting, woodwork . . . meanwhile my class mates sat in rows all scratching away at their laptops and standing in long lines waiting for the inkjet printer to spit out their generic posters. So when the time came to apply for jobs I did a few internships and quickly realised that even though I’d studied graphic design, it was actually the last thing I wanted to do for a job. So I nested down with some close friends and we shared the rent of a large warehouse studio in east London.

Having low overheads allowed me to focus on my artwork and scrape by from commission to commission, just small jobs, but they became consistent, and word spread. I did things differently, but I could still talk the talk and knew the right info, so when I started working with larger clients I think they found it refreshing that I had a different approach and would show up with tangible work rather than presenting my ideas on a screen. It’s been a steady growth since then, I have stuck to my guns and enjoy every minute, but I always have that nagging fear, how long will this wave last? And then what? I’ve always wanted to be tree surgeon . . .

Do you surf/skate/sing/ride or play beats? I’m guessing probably all of the above . . . which one rules?

I can barely swim, I’m tone deaf and have no rhythm whatsoever, I quite regularly fall of skateboards, but I have ridden BMX since I was a kid and hold my own amongst the other washed out 30-something boxers who remember when chain rings had 44 teeth.

Where’s the name Ornamental Conifer from?

A moment of madness . . .

What’s Radical Departures – the name of your recent show in Bali – and how did the name come about?

Radical Departures came from a conversation with my wife, as I was explaining the idea for the new body of work I had been sketching out. Originally I was going to call the exhibition ‘Incandescent Undertones’ and was trying to explain it was a departure from my other work based around motorcycles.

This time I wanted to focus on my other obsession, BMX and skateboard culture, the stickers and posters that I grew up with. So as we were chatting about this idea I kept saying that it was a radical departure from my previous work, and then the old light bulb thing happened. It struck me that I had given the show the wrong name, so that’s that – ‘radical’ giving a hint to the commonly used expression of my fellow subculture comrades and ‘departures’ meaning I have left my old self behind. Or something like that.

Images or lettering - which is more important in your art?

I actually see them both as the same thing, always have done. Both play a vital part in telling my story. I want to communicate, and I don’t like the idea that you might not be able to understand my work. I don’t want to leave it too open, it’s like a punch line, a visual pun, an aesthetic anesthetic . . . so yeah, they go hand-in-hand and have always been lovers.

I’ve seen your work on helmets, signs, jackets . . . are there any canvases that you have yet to paint on?

I’ve never painted an aeroplane. I’d love to paint an aeroplane.

Apart from Deus, who have you been working with for commissions recently?

Nike, BMW, Nixon, Chrome Industries, Levi’s, Alpinestars . . .

Where does the inspiration for your typefaces and your slogans come from?

All over the place, I’m always on the lookout. Bumper stickers, shop signs, book covers, road signs, songs . . . I always carry a sketchbook and have ideas, sometimes at the most inappropriate moment.

What’s your travel schedule like in the next four weeks?

I head out to the desert to chase a bunch of friends on motorbikes, I’ll be driving the chase truck so if any of them break down I can pick them up or help them get going again. Then I’m driving up to San Francisco to go to the opening of a Barry McGee show, then I head to Sydney to paint something on the Deus building, then I go to Italy to do a talk and attend a show as some kind of special guest where I will most probably get super nervous and drink too much and just mumble on stage.

Give us five words to describe yourself.

Never perfect but always awesome.

Favourite footwear?

VANS Slip-Ons. Instagram: ornamentalconifer www.ornamentalconifer.blogspot.com

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Photo: Stephane Sensey

Rowan Kane talks to Whulandary Herman about her humble childhood, playing a prostitute in her first film and why Bali floats her boat.

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PEOPLE

whulan: back seat driver.

Hi Whulan, can you tell us a little about where you’re from and how you grew up?

I grew up with my amak (grandmother) in a small village near Padang called Batang Anai. It was very traditional. I lived in a kampung house – a rumah gadang with a view of rolling hills at the front and a beach at the back. I was raised by two strong women who I still look up to: my mother and my amak. There were five other girls in the house whose parents couldn’t be with them, so it was a bit like living in a military school. Discipline was strongly enforced.

You became famous through winning Miss Universe Indonesia and going on from there to participate in the worldwide Miss Universe contest. I’m sure you learned a lot from this experience and especially interacting with women from all over the world. How do you see the position of women in Indonesia today and in the future?

I was fortunate enough to meet a lot of inspiring women during the contests. Everyone there had a strong personal ambition and a drive to succeed. I’ve met inspiring women before of course, many of them in Indonesia, where often there’s a strong will to succeed and to break through traditional glass ceilings. What’s even more admirable is that many of these women successfully juggle careers and family roles – my mother is a prime example. I can only hope to achieve what these women have done and balance both career and family successfully.

You recently starred in your first film in which you play a prostitute. Was that a difficult role to play and how did you prepare for it?

Bidadari Terakhir was my first film so I was pretty nervous, to be honest. I focused my preparation on three aspects: understanding the plot and characters of the story; getting up to speed with my acting skills and thirdly being able to identify with the role I was playing. For the first aspect I spent time with the writer to really understand who the characters were and why things turned out the way they had. On the second part – and I have my director to thank for helping me here – we talked every night and had readings of the script and he helped me to understand how to act and prepare for the role. For the third aspect, I knew that I needed to understand the perspective of sex workers in Indonesia, so I went with my mom to Kota. We got turned away repeatedly because some of them felt we were making fun of them but I did manage to speak to a few who were kind enough to share. I like to believe that I have become more understanding and respectful of others as a result. I’m not saying that I support sex-work but I do believe that we shouldn’t be judgmental of others – everyone deserves to be treated with respect. I don’t feel it’s within my right to judge others.

It looks like you’ve made quite a few trips to Bali recently, what’s your favorite part of the island and where do you like to hang out when you’re here?

Yes! Bali is one of my favourite places in the world. I’ve been visiting the island a lot recently because I’m planning to have a fashion business here and have been looking for a fashion production house. I love Berawa and I love Ubud, but there are so many beautiful spots it’s hard to choose.

What kind of projects are you looking to take on in the future? Acting? Fashion? Business?

I know this may sound ambitious but I’m planning to tackle all the things you mention. In the next two years I want to develop my acting career and also move forward with my fashion business. Acting for me is something that is out of my comfort zone, but performing excites me because it’s a new challenge and something different for me. I’m also challenging myself by taking singing lessons, just to prove to myself that nothing is out of my reach. As for fashion, a couple of years ago I started developing my own line – Whulandary Collection, which focuses a 100 percent on Indonesian techniques and materials . . . batik, songket. I see a tremendous opportunity to change the perception of these traditional techniques, which are currently seen as old-fashioned. I want to make them young and fashionable.

What inspires you?

I try to find beauty in everything in this universe. I really learned a lot from my mom and my grandmother about how to be strong and have self-worth. They always encouraged me to work hard and make my own future and told me, “If you want something you should go get it yourself. Things will not drop from the sky, so work hard.”

Travel also inspires me. I like to observe and learn from different cultures. I once lost my wallet in Bali and was stuck without money. A very kind taxi driver told me he would help me and send me back to my hotel. When I arrived, he refused to accept any money, even though I knew he really needed it. He told to me he just wanted to help someone in a bad situation and that I should pass the good deed on to someone else. It just reminded me to be less calculative and to help others without expecting anything in return.

Whulan, many thanks for your time.

My pleasure.

with thanks to Rolls Royce Indonesia.

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Driven to design by Jakarta traffic, Andi Yulianti is the force behind jewellry firm House of Jealouxy, handmade with love.

Photo: Hakim Satriyo

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PEOPLE

Besides being a jewellery designer to the stars, who is Andi Yulianti?

Hmm . . . the first question and definitely the hardest. Ha ha. I think I am a person who truly cherishes the good in people and whatever the world has to offer. Some people say that I’m naive, but I prefer to always see the positive. I love to be surrounded by people who give off a radiant atmosphere. I laugh a lot, and every time things go downhill I always try to brush it off and not take it too seriously, because nothing lasts forever.

What were you like as a kid?

My mom said she would always lose me and then find me talking or singing to strangers. Maybe that’s not a good example for life nowadays.

How and when did jewellery design come into your life?

I was an hotelier before and have also worked in a corporate multinational company. At one time, living in Jakarta, I got tired of commuting every day. It cost about three or four hours of my life per day because of the traffic. I knew I couldn’t live like that. I realised I needed to do something from home to make money.

So at first it was nothing serious. I was in between jobs and I needed something to keep me busy. I watched YouTube tutorials and also blog tutorials on how to make jewellery and I made pieces for myself. Then one of my friends who owned a store in Bandung loved it, and she said, “Why don’t you try to make a few things and sell them in my shop?” From there everything kind of took off.

In 2009 you started House of Jealouxy. What’s the story behind the name?

I love music. I think it’s one of the best things that the world has to offer. I really loved the song House of Jealous Lovers by The Rapture, so at first I wanted to give my brand the name House of Jealousy. But when I checked online there was already a band with the same name, so I tweaked it a bit to become House of Jealouxy so I wouldn’t have any issues in the future. And I like it because people always ask “why jealousy?” It makes people think and come back to me with curiousity.

Starting your own business is no easy feat, especially in the competitive fashion industry. What’s kept you going through tough times?

I think to answer this I will have to go back to my answer to the first question. I always try to be good and treat people well. In the fashion industry everything is connected. We have to have special relationships with celebrities, stylists, retailers, magazines and bloggers. We just have to help each other and move forward together. And word-of-mouth also plays a very crucial part in

this industry. It’s really a wild jungle. I think another important aspect is just to always try to make or re-invent something new and different so it gives you a certain character. Then people recognise your creations, even from afar.

At what moment did you know that the brand was truly successful?

Maybe when I got out of the studio and started meeting strangers on the street, in restaurants or at the cinema and they were wearing pieces from my collections. I think that is the best feeling of all. It’s also nice to be featured on album covers and see celebrities wear my brand for the red carpet, designer fashion shows and magazine fashion spreads. But to be worn by strangers, I don’t know, that’s the highest of highs. And oddly enough, whenever people copy and sell it for a lower price. The sincerest form of flattery.

In your opinion, what is it that people love about House of Jealouxy?

Every time I make a collection I always think of my clients, but I mix in my own taste, which is beautiful and fierce at the same time. My target market is people between 15 and 45 years old, so I always try to make a spread of pieces that will appeal to all. Young clients, edgy clients, sophisticated clients, and hijab clients, they all have to be represented in one collection with a price range that is also affordable. That’s why House of Jealouxy includes pieces that are not made with real diamonds, gold or precious stones. However, the techniques we use are just as complicated as the high-end international brands. Oh and one more thing: people love stories, so it’s important to always update your clients with the story behind the scenes through your social media.

Your collections exude a sense of travel and adventure. For example, the Pure Shores pieces are named after famous tropical hotspots, and your Midnight City line is named after cosmopolitan cities. How important is travel to you?

Very important. I love travelling both alone and with friends.

Either way, you can find a ton of inspiration in things that you don’t see in your daily life. It’s also a very good opportunity to source materials. It really opens your eyes to new things. I also really enjoy people watching. I like to see what they wear in real life because in the end you need to make money.

If you could go anywhere in the world and money was no object, where would you go?

Rivendell – home of the elves in Lord of The Rings. S.M.

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PEOPLE Alistair, can you tell us a bit about your background? Where are you from and how did you spend your formative years?

I was born on the Northern Beaches in Sydney in1971 then moved to Vancouver, Canada, at three years old with the family and was raised as a Canuck. I moved back to Sydney at 21 and spent 20 years back there.

How did you end up in the luxury bottle game?

By fluke really – I worked at a well-known retail liquor store on the Northern Beaches, became interested in wine and general business with premium beverages. I had a very good grounding of business from the owners of the outlet which you can’t learn in any normal schooling. After three years in retail I was fortunate to land a job with a group distributing Louis Roederer … that’s when the fun began.

Möet Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) is a prestigious French company with over 70 high-end houses focusing on everything from wine and spirits to fashion, perfumes, watches and jewellery. What’s it like working for a world leader in luxury?

Well … it’s like having the best job in the world! It’s an amazing company filled with very talented people across the globe, all different from each other. I’ve been fortunate enough to be able to travel to incredible places, enjoy excellent wines, Champagne and restaurants and gain knowledge from inspiring people.

What’s your favourite part of the job?

That’s a hard question, there are quite a few. Of course the world travel, and the events and perks … a generous wine allowance is always handy – and there always seems to be a bottle of Belvedere in my freezer! But it’s the people I’ve worked with over the 12 years at the group who have been the most inspiring.

I also enjoy great relationships with our trading partners, our customers, most of whom I would call friends. My success comes from our customers who are custodians of our very special brands, and I’m very grateful to be able to work with such amazing venues and their teams.

You worked for LVMH for 10 years in Sydney before moving to Bali. What brought about the move?

I’d been travelling to Bali since 2003 for holidays about three times a year and could always see opportunity for our brands. I began adding it to my yearly review under the title “Three-To-Five Year Plan”. One day someone read it and before I knew it I was on a plane … Lotto! So here’s some very good advice … dream big.

What were your first impressions of Bali in terms of both work and the social scene?

At first I found the social scene here never-ending. Every night is Saturday night, you need to be careful not to get trapped in the vortex of Bali nightlife because it’s a feast of amazing restaurants, nightclubs, bars and new people … all my favourites. As for work life, you need to go with the flow, it’s challenging at times if not highly frustrating – internet speed, language barriers and general day-today business … it takes time to adjust.

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How does the drinking scene here differ from Australia?

It’s much more relaxed here in Bali than Australia – bottle service is big here which is almost non-existent in Australia. Wine and Champagne consumption is increasing here with people wanting more choice and high-end service.

Taxation is high on alcohol for various reasons, which can be tricky. It will be interesting in the coming years to see how it’s managed.

Have the recent hikes in alcohol tax affected business here?

Yes indeed – as I mentioned above – it’s not being made easy. I have my own feelings on this but at the end of the day … this is Indonesia, and rules are rules.

Where do you see the biggest growth on the island?

Night trade is pumping with our brands, late night especially. There is fast growth in luxury villas and hotels, which is no surprise. Nusa Lembongan, Lombok and surrounding islands are also growing as people look outside Bali for holiday fun.

When you’re not getting down to the bottle business, we can find you getting down at …?

I do love an organized dinner with friends at either a villa or restaurant. I have been known to enjoy a night at Jenja as well.

If you were throwing a party, what bottles would you definitely want on hand?

Belvedere in the freezer, Clicquot in the fridge and Terrazas Malbec on the table.

Can you let us in on some of your favourite food and wine (or spirits) pairings?

Beef Rendang and red wine … can’t get enough of it! Belvedere and local coconut water with mint – very fresh.

Where can we find LVMH products in Bali?

In quite a few places really, we have partnerships with leading venues from Kuta to Canngu and beyond – Metis, Sarong, Mama San, Jenja, Mirror, W Hotel, St Regis, Sky Garden, Old Man’s … I’d hate to leave anyone out. We’re all over.

Is LVMH planning any exciting events or collaborations that we should know about?

Moet Ice will be in Bali soon – quite a bit of buzz on this product. Our new partnership with Honda McLaren and Chandon should see some exciting things in the near future.

Finally, how do you see the future unfolding for you? Will you become a familiar face in the long-term Bali expat scene?

I will be here for some time – I am just over a year in and there is a lot of opportunity to capture. So … see you around.

stephanie mee meets bali’s man with the brands when it comes to top shelf liquor. photo: mark carolan.

alistair toyne: he juggles luxe liquor.

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PEOPLE Elroy Jackson heads north to Bedugul to meet Aliza Salviandra, new director for Handara Golf & Resort. photo: mark Carolan.

fairway spirit.

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Hi Aliza, can you tell us a little about yourself?

I can say that I’m adventurous like traveling and learning about other cultures and values. That’s why I spent most of my adult life studying and working abroad. I graduated from Northeastern Uni in Boston majoring in Business Admin, worked for one year in State Street Bank, then did my MBA in International Business Law. A Law Master’s Degree followed after that. Finally I got my Law Degree from the University of Indonesia, was a lawyer for seven years and passed the Indonesian Bar Exam about two years ago. Last year I was given the task of managing Handara Golf & Resort.

Those are some impressive credentials. I’ll call you if ever I’m in jail! Can you tell us a bit about your famous grandfather, Ibnu Sutowo [the Indonesian army officer, Cabinet Minister and former head of the Indonesian oil and gas producer Pertamina, and the founder of Handara].

My grandfather was truly a remarkable man. He was very much involved in the struggles of Indonesian independence, and helped build the nation. He was a visionary in many ways. He also played a very influential part in my life, but to me he was just like any other grandfather, very affectionate. He loved having us grandkids around; me not realizing how significant he was until I grew up.

Supposedly, he fell in love with golf accidentally. He used to play tennis. But after hurting his back he wanted to try a ‘safer’ sport and started golfing. He was hooked after his first game, and became a passionate golfer. So much so that he decided to build the Handara course to make the then relatively unknown sport popular.

To be honest I’ve never wanted to be known solely because of my family background. That’s one of the reasons I enjoyed living abroad. But I’m still carrying his name. It’s touching that many people remember him with respect. Whatever I do and decide for Handara, it’s not just for my family, but also to carry out his legacy. He sincerely wanted to help out the local community. So to fulfill his wishes, we recently started quarterly CSR Charity programs around Bedugul area. We’re humbled that many groups have started giving out charity through us and we hope to expand the programs to cover all of Bali moving forward.

When was your first day at work at the family business here in Bali?

I moved to Bali in February 2014, and started working at Handara in April. It was a big challenge because I knew nothing about running a golf course and resort. I had to learn everything from scratch but thanks to that, I gained new knowledge in many areas. As they say, learning new things is good and healthy for your brain!

We noticed the golf Carnivale a few months ago, and the potential of this being a fun family day for years to come. Are there any other new concepts Handara will introduce?

Basically the new concept was to introduce golf as a fun sport to a younger, wider market. We need the younger generation to fall in love with golf and being a mother myself, I wanted to have a kind of family day, something that combined golf and family friendly activities. While the husband plays golf, the wife and kids can enjoy the carnival. I met a consultant who helped shaped the concept into

being. And that’s how the First Hackers & Slackers was born. The feedback was very encouraging. Next time maybe we’ll do a special theme or something, we want to see more children and young folks get hooked on golf. I’m also hoping that my son will also fall in love with the sport.

How has your move to Bali been so far, you’re a Jakarta city girl aren’t you?

Yes, I’m a city girl. To tell the truth the first few months weren’t too easy. The last seven years I’ve been used to the hype and fast pace of Jakarta’s lifestyle. The slow island life in Bali was a shock to the system. But as I got used to my work at Handara and with my family’s support, I fell in love with Balinese culture and its people.

As a family woman, mother and wife, how do you find the time to juggle your professional and personal life?

I’ve always juggled different parts of my life. I was heavily pregnant with my second child during my Bar exam; I was also pregnant and breastfeeding with my first child throughout my lawyering and university days. I guess you just have to be smart with your time management. I always try to be there for my husband and kids. But I want to be a good role model for my children. I want them to see that life is hard but when you achieve what you aimed for, the satisfaction is beyond anything.

We’re very happy to hear about the changes at Handara, it must be tough to bring in new levels of professional excellence to a business that’s been here since 1974. What are some of the major challenges you’ve faced?

The biggest challenge is to change itself. We’ve been trying to revamp the whole Handara culture. Generally people don’t like change. So our biggest challenge is changing the mindset and work ethic. I wouldn’t be here without the support of our brand new management team. We’re trying to be more disciplined at work. We get together every two months to have a general assembly for team building. You’d be amazed at how much people can make progress if they’re all on the same page.

Are you planning a celebrity golf tournament anytime next year, we are hearing all sorts of things in the rumour mill?

We’re trying to bring more awareness that Handara is back. We were delighted to be chosen as the venue for the inaugural Yak Magazine Golf Invitational and to have Miss Indonesia playing golf at Handara again. We’re definitely trying to get more celebrities, but I’ll keep that in the bag for now. We want to build your anticipation.

In your own words, how would you describe Handara?

Evolutionary. People-based. Family. Challenging. Loving. Committed.

Thanks very much for your time, just one more question. How did the course come to be named Handara?

Well, this is what I found out from my grandfather’s memoir. When he played golf for the first time, one of his daughters was with him. So with that fond memory, the course was named after her, my mother. www.balihandaracountryclub.com

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Arturro: “i’m

inspired by life in

general.”

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Stephanie Mee meets designer Arturro Eggo . . . and dreams of Roberto Cavalli.

PEOPLE

Arturro, first things first – where did you grow up and what was your childhood like?

I grew up mainly in Jakarta, but from early on we travelled as a family to many parts of the country. I have happy memories of my childhood making friends with other kids from different parts of Indonesia. I will always remember my childhood with great fondness.

When did you first know you wanted to be a fashion designer?

I’ve always been interested in beautiful clothes, and the colours and patterns of beautiful fabrics have always been fascinating to me. Though the interest in fashion was there, I didn’t actually get into it until my adult life. I thought it was just a passing fancy.

Did you go to school for fashion design?

At university I studied economics, but nothing to do with fashion. When I finally decided I wanted to become a designer (or at least to be part of the fashion world), I gained experience with several fashion houses and learned about design and how dresses were put together. So basically I taught myself how to design, although my mother was very instrumental in teaching me how to do beading and other details.

Who are your fashion super heroes and why?

I’m a big fan of Roberto Cavalli. I love how he combines patterns and colours into his dresses. His designs are bold yet feminine, graceful and fluid. I take inspiration from his design and create my own version of it.

Tell us about the first pieces you ever designed. How has your style evolved?

The first dress I designed was an evening gown for my sister. I worked day and night to perfect it. I was so nervous that she wouldn’t like the dress and may not want to wear it, but she loved it and wore it with pride and confidence. She got many compliments from her friends that evening. That was my first pride and joy. With the help of my mother I also designed a kebaya, the traditional Indonesian national dress with all the intricate stitching and beading. So much detailed work went into it, but the more I learned, the more I appreciated the intricacies.

I use a lot of this aspect of dress making in my current designs. It gives a more ‘finished’ look and feel to the dress.

Tell us a bit about the ARTURRO brand. How did it come about?

A dear friend in Jakarta always calls me Arturro, and others started calling me that instead of Arthur. So when we were looking for a brand name we decided to use the name.

Who is the ARTURRO brand made for?

The woman who wears my dresses is not a shy wallflower. She’s

confident, she knows what she wants, she’s independent, but she’s also very feminine, flirty and sexy.

Where do you get your inspiration from when you are creating new designs?

I’m inspired by life in general, but living in Bali gives me a great source of inspiration. Just look around you. It’s amazing out here … the vegetation, mountains, temples,and people. Even the weather has shapes and colours that inspire me. I take these designs and translate them into motives and patterns, which are then printed onto the fabrics for my dresses.

So here’s the scenario – you’ve just put together the perfect outfit for a night out on the town in Bali. What would that outfit be and where should the wearer go to show it off?

I would say a silk maxi cocktail dress printed in my signature pattern in subdued tropical colours. I’d start the experience with a sunset cocktail at the newly opened Alila Seminyak. Then a nice dinner at Metis restaurant followed by after-dinner digestif at the W Hotel lounge and a barefoot stroll on the beach, perhaps.

Why is Bali such a hot spot for fashion designers?

Bali offers unsurpassed natural beauty. The uniqueness of the culture and tradition of the Balinese people, coupled with their hospitality and warmth makes it a very pleasant place to be. It’s a magnet for all sorts of people from all over the world, which makes it quite a cosmopolitan island. You can casually mix with the rich-and-famous and the adventurers, as people from many different cultures and origins are in Bali. For artists, painters, writers and designers it’s the perfect place to explore and seek out inspiration.

What can we expect to see from ARTURRO in the future?

In the future I’d like to expand my brand so that people in other parts of the country can easily find my designs in the nearest shop. I’d like to make it more accessible to a wider range of customers by producing more ready-to-wear garments without sacrificing the quality. Of course every local designer dreams of making it big on the international stage, but for the time being my priority is to meet the demand of our local customers.

Since I personally still supervise every piece of clothing that is sold in our boutique, it requires time and my full attention.

Perhaps later on down the road, once I can delegate some of the responsibilities, then I can focus on international expansion.

That being said, at the moment I have orders from Europe and from the Middle East, but in manageable quantity, so I’m still able to fulfil the orders.

Many thanks for your time!

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PEOPLE

aaNoukis

she’s the eponymous – and mysterious – creator behind a bali swimwear brand that’s going places.

Hi Aanoukis, can you tell us a bit about yourself?

I’m a dreamer, a grinner and a music lover who loves to go with the flow of intuition and passion. You only have one life, so live it.

What is one thing nobody knows about you?

To keep the mystery alive I will keep it secret.

Before Bali where were you and what were you doing?

I’ve done a lot of different things in my life, and I’m always seeking out the next adventure. I had a lingerie shop, and then I was in the wellness industry as the manager for the Clarins Spa at the InterContinental, Marseille, in France. Now I’m between Bali and Europe and love the mix.

What drew you to the ‘Island of the Gods’?

An encounter with Bali’s spirit on my first trip here 12 years ago. I felt like Bali was a magical mermaid chanting, and it really blew my mind. It’s such a powerful place. On that trip I was told that I would come back.

Then I had a strong calling last year, and an opportunity arose to come and experience more of the magic Island of the Gods.

What inspired you to start designing swimwear?

Well since I am a young woman, I love lingerie and fashion. And after experiencing the island life, I wished I could spend my whole life in a bikini, so I was pretty inspired. Bali is a great playground to express your creativity, and it was here that I decided to create my own brand. This was a way for me to realise an old dream and create a reflection of my universe.

What are the biggest challenges in your line of work?

Swimwear is quite technical, so sampling and production is quite a challenge of patience.

Who or what inspires your creativity?

Everything really. Bali allows my inspirations to blossom.

I love sexiness and women’s curves. Emotions are also a big part of my process of creativity. Other inspirations could be anything from my gypsy travels, a picture of Helmut Newton, colours in nature, lines in all their expressions through fashion and architecture, and

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the presentation of a dish in a creative restaurant.

Sometimes I’m even riding my motorbike and images come into my head, so I need to stop and draw quickly on the side of the road. Then after I need to channel it all. Everywhere and everything is connected.

What type of woman is the Aanoukis line made for?

Any woman who wants to express her inner goddess.

In your opinion, what makes a woman sexy?

A mix of confidence and fragility, and her beautiful smile.

Same question, but for the men?

A certain sensitivity.

What are your top three favourite places in the world and why?

I’m more an island girl, and I still have many places to discover, but for now: Bali and her very powerful vibrations of life. I love the smiling Balinese faces and the colourful ceremonies. I have a special feeling for the Bukit area for its amazing sunsets, cool surf atmosphere and beaches. I can spend hours on the cliff at Mu or at the warung at Balangan looking out at the beautiful surf show.

The Balearic Islands. I love the contrast of the big blue ocean and the green trees with their scent, and the song of the cicadas. I love to sail there to discover protected creeks and eat fish in small traditional restaurants.

Itacaré, a small fishermen’s village in the Bahia state of Brazil. I love the festive atmosphere with samba and capoeira dancers, the colourful houses, tortuous paved streets, exuberant nature, and amazing long beaches with white sand. I also have fond memories of my first surf lesson there.

What’s left on your list of things to do in life?

A long sailing trip (in a bikini of course) from island to island to discover Indonesia by the sea, and a retreat in a Tibetan monastery in the Himalayas. www.facebook.com/aanoukis.swimwear

yak fashion all shots at pasar kodok, tabanan, bali’s secondhand clothing and accessories gold mine. get there.

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SECONDS OUT Photography and styling: Mark Carolan Models: Aiya and Tora, Balistarz. SHOT ON LOCATION AT PASAR KODOK, TABANAN.

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ARTSAKE

Rowan Kane meets a group of artists in Bali and finds

solace in the avant garde.

Photos: Mark Carolan.

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yonaton rumion.

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ARTSAKE

CHEAP rent and a low cost of living are the lifeblood of any art scene. An inspiring environment, an open society, and easy access to patrons with disposable income help too. Bali has all this in spades, so it’s unsurprising there’s been an uptick in avant garde art on the island recently, with one group emerging as a tour de force.

Craig Woodruff and Bianca Timmerman, aka YOKII and Bunny Bone, live together in their Seminyak studio, which, if you take away the tropical heat and open-air courtyard, could easily be mistaken for a converted loft in Brooklyn or Berlin.

It’s spacious, messy and simple; chairs are few and far between and there is a definite post-industrial feel, a rarity in Bali.

In one corner there’s a pool table hastily covered in cushions to protect it from a leak in the roof.

Neither the Sydney-bred YOKII, nor Jakartaraised Bunny, would tell you this, but they are smack dab in the middle of a burgeoning contemporary art scene centred around Nyaman Gallery in Jl. Raya Basangkasa. The work of Frenchwoman Melvine Amar, the gallery is the culmination of several businesses and is very much her passion project.

“The gallery is not commercial,” says Melvine. “I want to allow artists to follow their inspiration. For me, this is about pleasure, how to appreciate and reciprocate the fun and pleasure that I get from their art.”

Before arriving in Bali, Melvine spent time managing exhibitions in France and New York, but she was never a fan of the pomp and stuffiness that accompanies the galleries and shows of the higher art circles. So when she opened Nyaman Gallery, she brought with it a clear sense of humility, a trait she shares with her artists.

One of those is L. Fauzi who hails from Probolingo, East Java, where he runs a

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grocery store. Having never studied art in any formal capacity, Fauzi is an autodidact with clear Ludditic tendencies. He has a basic cell phone and doesn’t use a computer, let alone engage the internet or social media. He’s tried but it’s “too complicated”.

Fauzi’s art, to an amateur eye, looks something between MC Escher and Salvador Dali and is inspired by mundane objects (an Aqua box is central to one of his recent pieces), which enter the artist’s substantial imagination at random – for instance midshower - and, two to three weeks later, appear as part of an elaborate and detailed work. Like YOKII and Bunny Bone, Fauzi’s art is decidedly his and you can pick it out as you meander through Nyaman.

If the works of Fauzi are easily identified by their intricate imagination, YOKII’s can be defined by its process. The Australian started screen-printing in his uncle’s workshop as a kid and as an adult moved from creating t-shirts for bands, schools, and businesses to working in a gallery. Then came his biggest inspiration: the death of his best friend. Through that tragedy came the determination “to not take time for granted …

I’ve been working for myself ever since and doing art everyday.” Along the way, Yokii has mastered and takes pride in each step of his art; from Photoshopping the plastic screens right down to mixing his own paint.

“I love to share the process with people to make them really appreciate what goes into these works,” he says. “It’s a difficult thing to get across but it’s the most important part to me.” While he may not be able to communicate it verbally to those who buy his works, YOKII’s art throws his process and its levels at you, forcing you to absorb the steps he has taken in its creation.

Bunny’s work is uncomplicated and the most clearly stylized of the bunch. As Bianca, she works as a gallery assistant at Nyaman but there is a clear understanding between her and Melvine that when the muse hits,

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: L. FAUZI, YOKII, TARITA AURORA, BUNNY BONE.

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ARTSAKE QUINT.

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it’s back to the gallery. Bunny studied fashion in Jakarta before moving to Bali and that background comes out, if somewhat obliquely, in her work, which features the kind of female faces you would find in Vogue or Marie Claire, contrasted against a black background.

Three years ago, YOKII, Bunny, and two of her girlfriends began hosting what they call Black Market parties in his bar called Black Sheep that sat behind his old shop. Their friends and fellow artists came to sell their own creations, share their talents and just bask in a creative and free space. “It was a time to cut loose for me,” YOKII said, “Where I could have some Bintangs and create whatever I felt. I would always live paint or print t-shirts.”

The Black Market is alive and well, a fact Bunny lays down to its (and their) driving philosophy. “There are no exact rules on how we do it, it’s all pure fun and freedom. We do it whenever and wherever we feel it. We fund it ourselves, anyone gets a chance to do things or exhibit their work, you don’t have to be cool or a good artist.” This “colorful circus,” as she calls it, has attracted the kind of hip diversity you would expect from a thriving art scene; running the gamut from homeless Javanese artists to Czech punkhairdressers to drunken tarot card readers.

Balinese celebrities like JRX and Robi Navicula have lent their musical talents, as well.

Quint, a street artist who works with stencils along the lines of Banksy, Yonaton Rumion, a sketch artist, and Tarita Aurora, a tattoo artist, all fell into the Black Market orbit along the way. Tarita, who describes her work as “intuitive and psychedelic”, says it took far too long for her friend, Bianca/Bunny, to convince her to move from Jakarta. Her verdict is clear.

“It’s been the best decision I ever made.”

Around the same time Black Market got off the ground, YOKII met Melvine when she saw

some of his art in his shop window and commissioned him to make a few pieces for her. Their relationship grew from there and when Melvine began to the toss around the idea for opening a gallery, YOKII was the first artist she approached.

Bali has clearly made its impression on YOKII. Many of his prints are centered around Balinese faces and in describing the island he says, “Dreams are alive here. Endless inspiration and possibilities.” Yet beyond the imagery and individual inspiration is a deeper connection between Bali and its artists. YOKII, Bunny, and L. Fauzi and the others are not Balinese but each owns traits central to the spirit of classical Balinese art.

Unlike YOKII, Bunny & co., Yoka Sara is very much Balinese and from July to September on Sanur beach he produced a series of performance art “moments”, each of which was directed by an individual scenographer surrounding the overall theme of water. He called the project SPRITES and if this was held anywhere else in the world, it would certainly have been labeled as ‘l’art pour l’art’ and summarily dismissed. Art for the sake of art, with no real message or purpose, has been a major critique of the modern movements.

But in Bali, ‘l’art pour l’art’ becomes ‘l’art pour l’artiste.’ Balinese art at its core is a religious experience, a devotion of time, energy, and beauty to the Gods. In much the same way that Balinese offerings are crafted for the moment of sacred giving and are then profane, it is not the final product in Balinese art that is important but the process. This came naturally to Yoka Sara. The venue on Sanur Beach grew and changed with each moment until its culmination in early-September. Then after three months of work, it disappeared. It was not the product that was important but the process, the creation of beauty and the work of the artist.

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yak fashion

Photographer: Amberly Valentine Fashion Ed: The Ă– Film & Edit: Dommy Hammond Producer: Jen Boshan Models: Shannon & Aiya @ Bali Starz Make-up Artist: Tamika Munro Hair: Essensuals Bali & Juliette Hauer

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opening spread SHANNON WEARS (standing): Pink metallic leather dress by Missy Skins Pink shoes by Off Duty Pink suede clutch by Off Duty Pink Sapphire & Diamond earrings, 2 Aquamarine & Diamond rings, Sapphire & white gold ring by Jemme Bali AIYA WEARS (seated): Suede cut out jumpsuit, Purple shoes by Off Duty

this page AIYA WEARS: Pink sweater by RELIGION Yellow leather belt by Off Duty Pink & Black shorts by Tropicana

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AIYA WEARS: Teal Bra & Panties by MKHNUE for RELIGION Vintage Pink shoes from Shelley Norman Archive

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AIYA WEARS (foreground with milk): Lilac romper by Shakuhachi Vintage Pink shoes from Shelley Norman Archive NIKKI WEARS (seater closes to aiya): Pink dress by Miss Milne, Pink shoes by Off Duty SARAH WEARS (seated opposite): Pink shirt dress by Olenka, Pink shoes by Off Duty Vintage sunglasses from Shelley Norman Archive CHRISTINA WEARS (background): Uniform from Rokit Vintage London

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SHANNON WEARS: Blue mesh embroidered blouse by Missy Skins Embroidered Jacket & trousers by Off Duty Vintage Christian Louboutin shoes from Shelley Norman Archive 3 Sapphire & Diamond rings by Jemme Bali Morganite & Diamond Ring by Jemme Bali Aquamarine & Diamond ring by Jemme Bali

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AYA WEARS: Vintage Pink shoes from Shelley Norman Archive yellow dress from Rokit Vintage London

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SHANNON WEARS: Gold silk top & trousers by Off Duty Gold shoes by Off Duty Citrine & Diamond ring by Jemme Bali Citrine & Diamon stud earring by Jemme Bali Moonstone ring by Jemme Bali

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AIYA WEARS (on the bed) Teal Bra & Panties by MKHNUE for RELIGION Vintage Pink shoes from Shelley Norman Archive SHANNON WEARS (door) Blue mesh embroidered blouse & leather skirt by Missy Skins Blue silk shoes by Off Duty 92

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SHANNON WEARS: Blue leather cut out dress

by Missy Skins at Souq Pink shoes by Off Duty 94

Post Production: Nick Slade Extras: Christina Iskander, Sarah LaFleur, Nikki Flook, Desmond Slade, Clari Thomas, Natalia Colichon & Antonio Cardyn Set Design: Amberly Valentine & Nick Slade Manicure: Think Pink Bali Rack Co-ordinator: Sarah Lafleur Diamond stylist: Azis @ Jemme Bali Photographers Assistants: Komang Artama & Natalia Colichon Fashion Assistant: Johanna Hayward Props: Shelley Norman Lighting Hire: Movie Studio Bali Car: Holden FB Special 1960 by JRX @ The Man Shed Sanur With thanks to: The Canggu Club, Man Shed, Cosmic Diner.

CHRISTINA WEARS (hoovering): Uniform from Rokit Vintage London Vintage Pink shoes from Shelley Norman Archive SHANNON WEARS (standing): Yellow silk skirt from Rokit Vintage London Yellow suede top by Off Duty Gold shoes by Off Duty Champagne Diamond necklace by Jemme Bali Citrine & Amythyst ring by Jemme Bali AIYA WEARS (legs) Purple shoes by Off Duty

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Let us rejuvenate your skin in a radiantly fresh glow.

Let us pamper you with extensive wellness opportunities.

Let us arrange a boutique collection of Balinese inspired treatments.

Let us turn a day into a lifetime memories.

DISCOVER WELLNESS SANCTUARY AT THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA Reserve your treatment at +62 361 849 8988 or email at rc.dpssw.spa@ritzcarlton.com www.ritzcarlton.com/bali

books

David Gava on the life and times of a loveable rogue . . .

A half century since the first publication of The End Of The Game, this year’s anniversary is as much a re-examination of creator Peter Beard’s searing magnum opus to Africa’s wildlife as it is a retrospective of his own wild life.

Variously described as a photographer, artist, writer and diarist, the now 77-year-old American has also been called the most charming man alive (by most of his ex lovers), the cleverest man in the room (by most of his friends), an endearing rogue (by most who have met him) and an irresponsible, drug-abusing colonial (by Kenya’s police).

He has long refused to categorise himself or his work, scoffing “art is whatever is life enhancing” when asked the question by Danish filmmaker Lars Bruun in his gritty 1996 documentary A Study of Peter Beard, adding elsewhere that “small minds make big scrapbooks”.

The End Of The Game had been in the making since Beard first started scrapbooking as a teenager. Born with a silver spoon in his mouth – and possibly one up his nose – Beard was a scion of New York aristocracy, boasting fortunes on both sides of the family. He toyed with medical school before studying art, while his larger-thanlife personality and talent saw him signed by Vogue magazine as a photographer while still a student.

After two photo shoots in Africa Beard became mesmerised by the Dark Continent and in 1961 traveled to Denmark to meet his literary heroine Karen Blixen – charming the reclusive and ageing

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author of Out Of Africa into giving him access to a vast collection of pictures, diaries and notebooks from her Kenya days.

Blixen would die the following year but in Beard she recognised a kindred spirit – someone who would chronicle the decline of an era, for better or worse.

“Very few matters,” she wrote to him, “could move me as deeply as your epitaph, or monument, over the Old Africa which was so dear to my heart – the continent of wisdom, dignity and deep poetry, equally expressed in nature, beast and man.”

Beard returned to Kenya to finish the book, sealing his literary betrothal to Blixen by purchasing a plot of land next to her former coffee station and naming it Hog Ranch – a sprawling, tented safari camp that he still calls home.

The first edition of The End Of The Game was a publishing sensation despite its gritty and unlikely subject matter. In various chapters he chronicled the exploits of the men and women of colonial Africa, including Colonel John Patterson – the famed killer of the man-eating lions of Tsavo, as well as the great hunts of US president Theodore Roosevelt and Ernest Hemingway.

The pages and sepia-toned illustrations are interspersed with his own photographs and calligraphy – frequently drawn in blood; sometimes his own – and the net result is a chaotic, disturbing, but always illuminating, work of art that remains fresh today on each viewing.

Beard: the artist as a young man.

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books

In the decade that followed Beard established himself as one of the world’s leading fashion photographers and led the high life . . . literally. He was a permanent fixture at Studio 54 and was close friends with rock luminaries such as Eric Clapton, David Bowie and The Rolling Stones, who he accompanied on tour in 1972 and 1975 – bonding particularly with Mick Jagger and photographing his wedding to Bianca. He dated model/ actresses Lauren Hutton and Candice Bergen, as well as socialite Lee Radziwill; the sister of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis.

Painted by Salvadore Dali, Francis Bacon and Andy Warhol, who described him as “one of the most fascinating men in the world … half Tarzan, half Byron”, he briefly married Cheryl Tiegs, the supermodel of her day, and “discovered” Iman in Nairobi – famously promoting the model in New York as an illiterate Somali refugee when she was actually the university-attending daughter of a diplomat and gynaecologist; fluent in five languages including Italian, French and English.

In 1977, at the height of those hedonistic times, Beard reissued The End Of The Game with an additional chapter entitled Nor Dread Nor Hope Attend, containing dozens of mostly aerial photographs of the disintegrating carcasses of elephants in Kenya’s Tsavo national park.

Some 30,000 elephants are believed to have died of starvation in just three years after misguided conservationists decided that keeping the great beasts confined to one place would protect the species more than allowing them to roam in conflict with man. Elephants feed by knocking down trees – which provide otherwise impossible-to-reach food for other species – before lumbering on. By confining them to one place the elephants effectively destroyed their own food supply and had nowhere else to go . . . the landscape turned into a vast dustbowl and millions of creatures died.

The additional chapter contained no text, just 40 pages of stark images, but in a re-issue a decade later Beard included an afterword where he explained: “In the 1977 edition . . . it seemed politically unwise to include details of the conservation efforts that had paradoxically led to the die-off”.

Beard’s reputation – for good and bad – continued to grow.

A notorious spendthrift, and often broke despite his fortune, he frequently paid long-standing bills with pieces of his art and suffered a devastating blow when his second home in The Hamptons was destroyed by a fire that also consumed a priceless collection of work by him as well as several pieces by Warhol, Bacon and Dali.

With his matinee-idol good looks and prodigious appetite

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for beautiful women, drugs and alcohol, Beard cut a larger than life figure wherever he went. Awaiting surgery for a shoulder injury after being beaten up by bouncers at a New York nightclub, he asked the anesthesiologist “can I have some of that to go”, while a 1996 Vanity Fair interview famously tells of him emerging from his Hog Ranch tent in a fog of marijuana smoke accompanied by five Ethiopian girls.

“We were very cozy,” he said, adding: “It’s such a waste, sleep. You’re just lying there.”

Although he married for a final time in 1986, he was frequently estranged from Nejma until a decade later when he narrowly escaped death after being trampled and gored by an elephant while filming a documentary. Doctors gave him almost no chance of surviving, but like an old tusker he pulled through.

Friends say the incident changed him for good.

In the midst of a messy divorce, he and Nejma reconciled and she began exerting a greater influence on his affairs, determined to secure his legacy as well as win greater critical recognition for his art. With major retrospectives in New York and Europe this year, The End Of The Game is again being reissued with previously unseen new material and is expected to be another publishing sensation.

Fifty years on, Beard appears like the elephants whose demise he chronicled, one of the last magnificent bulls living on the edge of the herd.

“Peter is not a commercial person, that’s his beauty and that’s his downfall,” said Iman in Vanity Fair. “He’s an artist; but he does not live in society; he does not play by their rules. He’s like a wild animal. He would rather have grand disasters than a mediocre life.”

Now the same age at which his idol Blixen died, Beard’s introduction to the original edition seems even more apt: “Nature has seen to it that individuals die but species and cycles live on. Death is the patiently awaited, unfeared fact of delicately poised African life.”

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GAVA FOX PONDERS BALONEY AND THE BALLOT BOX.

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who trumped?

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“the best argument against democracy is a five minute conversation with the average voter.�

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If aliens happened to be observing our planet, few things would confuse them more than the way Earthlings go about politics – and if they happened to focus on the charade that is the ongoing United States presidential election race, they’d be forgiven for thinking “no sign of intelligent life here”, and moving on to another galaxy.

No candidate can possibly be elected to high office in the United States without professing an unwavering devotion to religion – Christianity in particular – and Trump, who is not known for his churchgoing, showed the banality of this requirement when asked by journalists to cite just one favourite verse from the bible.

The presidential vote won’t take place until November 8, 2016, but you’d have to have been living in an internet-free cave for the past year to have avoided the unedifying spectacle of a group of (largely) old white men in a dick-waving contest who will literally do anything to get your vote.

“Well, I wouldn’t want to get into it because to me that’s very personal. You know, when I talk about the Bible it’s very personal. So I don’t want to get into verses, I don’t want to get into . . . the Bible means a lot to me, but I don’t want to get into specifics.”

The way the American political system works is that only registered Republicans can vote for the Republican presidential candidate – and only registered Democrats for their torchbearer – with the result that policies and politics are generally thrashed out in the so-called “primaries”. While independent candidates do occasionally take part, the election itself is effectively a two-horse race between the Republicans and the Democrats.

Are you an Old Testament guy or a New Testament guy? he was asked.

The Democratic Party race is being contested by just three candidates – the littleknown Martin O’Malley, the avuncular Bernie Sanders and the opportunistic Hillary Clinton – and has been a mostly civilised affair.

When it comes to religious mush, current poll leader Carson, a neurologist celebrated for his work on separating conjoined twins, has given a whole new meaning to the expression “it’s not brain surgery” by suggesting that the theory of evolution was crafted by Satan, and that the biblical Joseph built the pyramids as giant grain silos. Egypt’s Minister of Antiquities politely commented that Carson’s remarks did not deserve a response.

In contrast, some 15 candidates remain in the Republic Party race, including nohopers such as Bobby Jindal, an American-born son of Indian immigrant parents who is campaigning against so-called “parachute babies” (just like him), and Rick Santorum, the man whose surname became an appropriate neologism as a direct result of his opposition to gay rights. Google “Santorum”; it’s a word to cherish.

Better still, ask the person sitting next to you if they know what it means, then Google it together …

Winston Churchill is credited with saying “the best argument against democracy is a five minute conversation with the average voter”, and therein lies the problem with the Republican Party race: in an effort to attract the average voter, the candidates are plumbing new depths to find a lowest common denominator.

The front runners for the Republican nomination are currently Donald Trump, Ben Carson and Jeb Bush, who is seeking to become the third member of his family to occupy the White House.

Trump’s self-funded participation was initially seen as just another example of aggrandising showmanship by the ludicrously coiffured real estate tycoon. Three times married; four times bankrupt, Trump has treated the election race like an extension of his former reality show The Apprentice, and his campaign has proven to be a gold mine for comedians and late-night TV talk show hosts.

While political commentators initially didn’t take Trump’s candidacy seriously, he soon swept to the top of the opinion polls despite a manifesto boasting such nonsensical policies as building a giant barrier “bigger than the Great Wall of China” to keep out Mexican illegal immigrants, who he accused of being thieves and rapists. (Note to Trump: The Great Wall of China didn’t actually work).

“Uh, probably . . . equal. I think it’s just an incredible . . . the whole Bible is an incredible . . . I joke . . . very much so. They always hold up [the Trump-authored] The Art of the Deal, I say it’s my second favorite book of all time. But, uh, I just think the Bible is just something very special.”

In an effort to open up to voters, Carson invited photographers to tour his home, which they were shocked to discover was effectively a shrine to himself, with walls covered in photographs and tacky paintings of him in his green scrubs – including one that shows a ghostly Jesus resting his arm on the surgeon’s shoulder.

Recently, Kentucky court registrar Kim Davis achieved global notoriety after being jailed for six days for refusing to issue marriage licences for same-sex couples in defiance of a U.S. Supreme Court ruling. Davis, who has been married four times, to three different men and bore twins out of wedlock, claimed she stood her ground because of her religious beliefs, and Mick Huckabee and Ted Cruz – two other passengers in the Republican Party clown car, beat a path to her door, seeing her as the mythical average American. Voters seemed hardly dismayed by video of Huckabee’s aides man-handling Cruz away from the photo-op that followed her release from jail.

In most other countries, such vainglory and incoherence would never afford a candidate a platform, although there are exceptions.

Musician David Sutch frequently contested seats in Britain’s parliament as Screaming Lord Sutch, leader of the Official Monster Raving Loony Party, becoming a somewhat-loved eccentric fixture until his death by suicide as a result of depression in 1999. Who wouldn’t be depressed after losing 40 elections in a row? He generally always stood against the incumbent Prime Minister, making a mockery of the staid election-night process by insinuating himself into press photographs while dressed in outlandish costumes topped with a stove-pipe hat.

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Douglas Adams, celebrated author of The Hitchhiker’s Guide to The Universe wrote “anyone who is capable of getting themselves made President should on no account be allowed to do the job”, and must be spinning in his grave at the spectacle of a third member of the Bush family running for top office.

American voters have short memories as the participation of Jeb Bush shows. Have they already forgotten that George Bush Jnr only squeaked past Al Gore in a tight 2000 race as a result of a highly dubious recount in Florida – governed at the time by his brother Jeb – and after a ruling by a Supreme Court boasting two justices appointed by his father, George Snr? Political dynasties are not, of course, confined to the United States.

Three generations of the Kim family have ruled North Korea for decades – although citizens have had little say in who rules them – while the children of presidents or prime ministers have held office in many countries from Bangladesh and Botswana to Syria and Sweden. Even Indonesia is awash with political families, highlighted by former President Megawati, the daughter of founding father Sukarno.

You’d think in India, the world’s largest democracy, that voters could find a bit of variety among the 1.2 billion population, but the country’s first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, was followed into office a few years later by his daughter, Indira Gandhi, who in turn was succeeded by her son, Rajiv. A fourth generation seems highly likely too given Rajiv’s son, Rahul, is a member of parliament and the deputy head of the behemoth Congress Party.

In Britain, siblings Ed and David Miliband famously battled head-to-head in 2010 for the right to lead the Labour Party. During Prime Minister’s question time – a British institution that more resembles a particularly raucous high school debate – victor Ed thought he was delivering a powerful “gotcha” to David Cameron by asking “are you really the best politician in the Conservative Party?”

“You’re not even the best politician in your family,” Cameron responded.

Zing!

They say if you don’t vote, you get the government you deserve, and if you do, you never get the results you expected, so why do we vote, and what is the point?

Around 100 nations have had elections of one sort or another in 2015, from Greece – the land that gave birth to democracy and loves the idea so much it actually had two votes this year – to Transnistria, a country I bet you didn’t even know existed until this moment.

“Democracy is a pathetic belief in the collective wisdom of individual ignorance,” wrote H. L. Mencken, the Sage of Baltimore celebrated for his scathing critiques of American society, adding also: “Democracy is the art and science of running the circus from the monkey cage.”

In some countries – notably Australia – it is compulsory to vote, and dissenters face fines for not participating. In some way this is an ideal system because it means

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that anyone who later complains about how the government is being run can at least claim to have tried to have had a say in who runs it.

But in Australia, of course, individual voters don’t elect the leader of the country.

Like in Britain, the Prime Minister is chosen by the party which controls parliament, leading to often farcical situations where someone can become Premier even though they may be despised by an overwhelming majority of the population – here’s looking at you, Tony Abbott.

It’s also compulsory to vote in North Korea, a curiosity given there is only ever one candidate for each seat and if you choose not to cast your ballot for the handily pre-selected candidate, you have to place your paper in a special box under the watchful eye of a party-appointed official. Not surprisingly, the ruling Democratic Front for the Reunification of the Fatherland won 100 percent of the last ballot with a turnout of 99.99 percent of the electorate.

“Democracy is being allowed to vote for the candidate you dislike least,” wrote American essayist Robert Byrne. Not in North Korea.

Cynicism aside, elections can be truly uplifting things.

Nelson Mandela’s release in 1990 from 27 years in prison and subsequent election as President of South Africa was celebrated around the world. The saintly “Madiba”, as he was affectionately known, improbably united a country that had been torn asunder by apartheid and never held back from speaking his mind on injustice across the African continent – even if it meant criticising those who had supported him for decades.

More recently Canada elected the Liberal Party to power, installing the youthful Justin Trudeau as Prime Minister who set a benchmark for nations around the world by appointing a cabinet split evenly between men and women.

Trudeau, 43, is the son of former Prime Minister Pierre, a towering intellect who nevertheless regularly partied with the likes of The Rolling Stones and John Lennon before marrying a woman less than half his age that he had met on a beach in Tahiti.

And then there is Myanmar, which voted in November to end decades of military rule by giving Aung Sang Suu Ki’s National League for Democracy an overwhelming parliamentary majority.

Syu Ki’s Party actually won 80 percent of the vote in 1990, but the military dictatorship responded by putting her under house arrest for 15 of the next 21 years during which she was never allowed to see her husband and became estranged from her children.

The Nobel Prize winner, daughter of Myanmar’s founding father Aung San, remained unmoved.

“Freedom and democracy are dreams you never give up,” she said.

“Democracy is a pathetic belief in the collective wisdom of individual ignorance.�

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FEATURE

Anita Surewicz goes one-off with some of the best bespoke brands in Bali.

Bali abounds with innovative designers and skilled artisans. From woodcarvers to shoemakers and tailors, the island’s creative beat is a breath of fresh air in an era of mass production. With so much talent on one island, it is no wonder that the demand for bespoke products is continuing to gain momentum. And the trend is about more than just customizing that special new purchase. It’s also about the whole manufacturing process. No longer satisfied with cookie-cutter goods, today’s discerning shoppers want to know that their item is not only a one-off but also the story behind where and how it was produced. Here’s our pick of three top-end brands that capture Bali’s creative spirit.

L’Atelier Perfumes et Créations Discover Indonesia without leaving the comforts of Bali by learning about the country’s scents and creating your own personalized fragrance at L’Atelier Perfumes et Créations. The unique perfumery studio offers 90-minute workshops where participants create their bespoke fragrance using essential oils from across the archipelago. Those who opt for the three-hour workshop are also given a special insight into Indonesia’s role in perfumery.

L’Atelier Perfumes et Créations grew out of one woman’s passion for scents and Indonesia. Hailing from Martinique – a French island in the Caribbean – Nora Gasparini visited Bali in 2006 and loved it so much she decided to make Bali her home.

“The cempaka incense, flowers and other various smells, as well as the enchanting surroundings, led to my obsession with scents and Indonesia itself,” Nora says. “I went back to France to study perfumery and later travelled around Indonesia to learn about its different essences.”

Not many realize that Indonesia is one of the world’s major producers of raw ingredients used in the production of essential oils. As those are indispensable to the perfume industry, the country’s lack of perfumeries can be surprising.

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“The main purpose of Indonesia’s fragrance industry is to create scents that are used in consumer products such as shower gels, body lotions and massage oils,” Nora says. “A lot of the essential oils are exported out of Indonesia to perfume makers abroad.”

Realizing the benefits of being so close to the source of such rich materials, Nora decided to pour her passion into L’Atelier Perfumes et Créations. Today, she runs workshops out of her studios at the Ayana Resort and Spa in Jimbaran and The Ritz Carlton in Nusa Dua. “Participants fill in a questionnaire at the start of the workshop to determine their ‘perfume personality’. Then comes the selection of the base, middle and top notes,” Nora says, referring to the layers combined to make a fragrance.

The participants can choose from around 45 different materials – including spices, flowers and woods – to create their own signature fragrance. “Then they create three trial formulas in separate vials and choose which scent they want made into a 30 milliliter bottle of a personalized perfume,” Nora says.

At the end of the workshop, each participant receives his or her tailor-made perfume, which comes in a sleek leather case to protect it from sunlight. Best of all, L’Atelier Perfumes et Créations keeps each formula in their database for future reorders. www.perfumeworkshops.com Jasmine Elizabeth It takes two shoe artisans around 16 hours to assemble a bespoke pair of Jasmine Elizabeth shoes. Handcrafted from quality materials, the shoes infuse glamour and sensuality into detailed yet comfortable designs.

“Just as the women who wear it, the brand speaks for itself,” says Agie Purwa, the Balinese Creative Director of Jasmine Elizabeth. “A pair of Jasmine Elizabeth shoes

top and left: angel jackson. top right: Nora Gasparini, L’Atelier Perfumes et CrÊations (Image: Heal By Photo). left: Agie Purwa. above: worshop creations jasmine elizabeth.

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FEATURE

top: clothing by Federico Gioli . above: federico and friend. photos by the palms agency.

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epitomizes the character of a woman who is dynamic, strong, smart and self-confident.”

Nestled along a hidden lane amidst the hustle and bustle of Kuta, the Jasmine Elizabeth showroom offers a unique shopping experience to remember.

“I personally guide my customers through the process of creating a customized pair of shoes,” Agie says. “From assisting in the selection of materials, colour swatches, heel height and design to the completion of a personalized pair of gorgeous, handmade shoes, my team of artisans and I can help make your dream come to life.”

Even though Agie started the brand – which is named after her daughter – only earlier this year, she is no stranger to creative pursuits and the manufacturing process.

“When I was young my father owned a furniture factory. I quickly became familiar with the design process. Ever since, I have enjoyed the creative process, especially designing and manufacturing handmade pieces,” Agie says. “Around 10 years ago I decided that I wanted to make shoes so I set up a workshop. Today I employ 10 artisans, and work with designers and boutique owners both in Bali and abroad who manufacture shoes, handbags and other apparel at my workshop.”

It is not surprising that many of Agie’s designs are inspired by the idyllic landscape and vibrant colours of Bali. “I try to translate the aesthetics of the island into a wearable art form without losing the authenticity of the traditional craftsmanship of my team of artisans.”

Just like the fairy godmother in Cinderella, Agie is happy to be able to breathe life into the dreams of her customers. Hopefully, the launch of an exclusive Jasmine Elizabeth showroom in December will help her spread her magic to even more shoeconnoisseurs, each as unique as the products they commission. www.jasmineelizabeth.com Angel Jackson What do Rita Ora, Lady Gaga, Gwen Stefani, Kate Moss and Rocky Barnes have in common? They have all been spotted carrying Angel Jackson handbags. With a celebrity following, the Bali-based international accessories label has been turning heads since it was launched in 2005.

“Our handbag collections have been featured on several American television shows including Gossip Girl and The Carrie Diaries,” says Katie Smith, the Creative Director behind the fearlessly edgy brand. “We have also been featured in luxury fashion magazines worldwide such as Vogue, Tatler, Elle and Vanity Fair.”

The masterminds behind Angel Jackson, Katie and her sister Millie Smith, who is in charge of the design side of the production process, travelled to Bali over 12 years ago to find a manufacturer who would bring their designs to life but were not happy about the working conditions or the quality of the products on the island. Not discouraged, the duo decided to set up their own operation from scratch.

“We decided to employ a production manager, rent a small space in Kuta, buy some sewing machines, and employ tailors and craftsmen,” says Katie. “It all started from there. Today we have an extremely talented team working out of a workshop in Tanah Lot in Tabanan. Each handbag is cut and stitched by one person from start to finish.

There’s a lot of love going into each piece.”

Besides the label, Angel Jackson’s service “Beyond Bespoke” has been set up to offer accessory-connoisseurs a unique, once-in-a-lifetime experience of unleashing their inner designer and creating their very own statement handbag.

“The Bespoke Angel Jackson design experience begins with a one-on-one consultation with the designers at the customer’s suite or villa. As the creative team behind Angel Jackson, Millie guides our customers through the current handbag trends and introduces them to a range of luxurious materials and colour swatches,” Katie says, adding that one of the more unusual materials used in Angel Jackson products includes sustainably-sourced snakeskin.

“After the initial consultation, my designers and I work with our artisans and technicians to develop a working drawing, paper pattern and then prototype sample for our customer’s approval,” Katie continues. “A second appointment, over an optional champagne lunch, with Millie and I gives the customer an opportunity to discuss their prototype and any changes that they would like to make. Finally, the customer’s personal artisan will begin the process of creating their bespoke handbag.”

The sisters say they work very closely with their team of craftspeople to come up with quality pieces that are both contemporary and timeless. Better still, such personal involvement also allows them to ensure that their accessories are produced in an ethical manner.

“We ensure optimum working conditions for our employees and compensate them well for their hard work,” Katie says. “We were always taught to treat people as we’d like to be treated and that’s how we’ve run our business. We believe it’s possible to create beautiful products in an ethical way.” www.angeljackson.com Federico Gioli Breezy and alluring, the Federico Gioli clothing label combines the designer’s Italian flare and the talent of his Balinese team. Federico’s garments are sophisticated and elegant – think asymmetrical lines and impeccable attention to detail – yet comfortable and easy to wear. While Federico specializes in high quality ready-to-wear collections, he also produces custom-made garments for those with a penchant for original one-off creations.

Founded in 2012, the Federico Gioli men’s and women’s label is the culmination of 25 years of experience, determination and hard work. Federico started his fashion career at the tender age of 15 at a family sportswear label, Brema, in Italy. Over the years, he has had the good fortune of working for a variety of high profile designers in Milan and London, including Studio13, a renowned agency that specializes in different facets of fashion from make-up to photography. He has also worked with some of the top names in the industry including Giorgio Armani, Roberto Cavalli, Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood.

Like many before him, Federico fell in love with Bali after he visited the island on a holiday in 2010 – his father has now been living on the island for over 20 years.

“While I learned about fashion from a pretty early age, it was once I got to Bali that I was inspired to open my own atelier,” he says. “I initially worked with some of the top designers on the island including Nico Perez. It took me two years to get my own business off the ground.”

Ranging from casual wear to sophisticated evening dresses, Federico’s chic designs make fashion seem as effortless as a stroll on the beach. Fittingly, many of his creations are inspired by natural materials. One of his favorites is bamboo cotton. “It is very important to me that this is a sustainable fiber,” he says. “The material is delicate and amazing to work with. It is perfect for a tropical climate. I am planning to use it in my Summer Collection 2016, which will be super fresh and colorful.”

Whether you are looking for an off-the-rack evening gown or that perfect outfit tailored to your measurements you just can’t get off of your mind, Federico’s magic touch is sure to deliver. The Federico Gioli label can be found at his boutique, also called Federico Gioli, on Jalan Dhyana Pura, Gang Cempaka, in Seminyak; SATU in Beachwalk Kuta; and more recently at the Padma resorts in Legian and Ubud, where he is also redesigning the public areas. Federico is also planning to start retailing his label in Jakarta and Singapore in the near future. www.federicogioli.com

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FEATURE

IT TAKES A VILLAGE Stephanie Mee gets gooey over Bali’s latest destination shopping venue, Seminyak Village.

Bali may be one huge outdoor playground, but let’s face it – sometimes the heat of the streets, the traffic and those unexpected downpours can be a bit much to deal with. That’s why it’s important to have a few escape routes up your sleeve.

The newest addition to our carefully curated list of cool indoor spots to escape from the elements and the crowds is Seminyak Village, a sleek lifestyle destination where your can spend the entire day shopping, eating and at play.

Located in the heart of Seminyak, just minutes from some of the island’s most sought after hotels, restaurants and bars, Seminyak Village is so much more than your average shopping mall. The name refers to the spirit of community and belonging that you would find in a village where people of all ages and walks of life come together; and the bright, open design encourages visitors to stroll, explore, and catch up with old friends and new.

Step through the sliding glass doors at the entrance just back from Seminyak Square, and the hustle and bustle of South Bali fades into the background. As you enter the expansive 6,000 square meter space, sunlight pours in through a massive glass dome, yet the air conditioning adds cool respite from the tropical sun. Spread out over the two levels you will find an exciting mix of international and local fashion boutiques, enticing dining and drinking options, and plenty of places to get pampered and relax, including a stunning spa on the landscaped rooftop terrace.

Start your experience here on the ground floor with a tour of fashion’s finest including MCM for luxe leather bags, Aldo for the latest trends in footwear, Farah Khan for gorgeous hand-sewn and sequined dresses, and the multi-label M Resort with apparel by top European brands like AQ/AQ and CLVII. This floor also features A Time by Time International for elegant timepieces, and Optik Tunggal, the only optician this side of Denpasar with high-quality lenses and frames by the likes of Oakley and Cartier.

Head up the escalator to the first floor to peruse The Marketplace, a unique open-concept retail space where some of Bali’s finest artisan entrepreneurs display their wares in a relaxed, family-friendly setting. Here there are over 20 traders offering everything from fashion to beauty products, jewellery and collectibles, plus artisanal chocolate and gelato and even a moneychanger.

You could spend hours here chatting with local creators, picking up gifts and keepsakes, and chilling out at the long wooden table.

After you’ve had your fill at the marketplace, check out the rest of the first floor for local fashion brands like Bamboo Blonde, Buddha Wear and Lily Jean, each with unique and inviting shop interiors designed specifically for Seminyak

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Village. Planning a night out on the town or a big event? Stop by Toni & Guy Essensuals for a fresh new haircut or colour, or Sensatia Botanicals for natural skincare and hair products that will leave you feeling nourished and glowing.

Of course shopping is just one aspect of the Seminyak Village experience.

This is also a prime spot to indulge in gourmet food and drink. Perhaps the most famous foodie destination here is Tiger Palm, a lively restaurant concept brought to us by award-winning chef Will Meyrick and the Mamasan Group. The menu includes vibrant dishes inspired by Peranakan and Malaysian spices and flavours, as well as cool cocktails made with local herbs and fruits.

For Chinese classics like dim sum and Peking duck, head to The Duck King on the first floor. This expansive eatery is great for large groups who want to share a variety of Asian dishes. Also on the first floor is Wahrung with fine coffee, French pastries, and light dishes like sandwiches and salads, as well as Darling Cafe offering healthy organic drinks and fare like fresh juices, smoothies and acai bowls.

Other dining options include Mrs. Lee’s on the ground floor for Indonesian classics made with family recipes passed down through the generations. This is the only restaurant in Seminyak Village with terrace seating, so it’s best to book ahead to secure a sweet spot. Just steps from Mrs. Lee’s is Nitrogenie, a great place to cool off with ice cream made to order with liquid nitrogen to flash freeze the flavours. We highly suggest the salted caramel popcorn flavour.

If all that shopping and dining has you feeling like you need to relax and recharge, make your way to the rooftop and check out the scenic Spring Spa. Follow the stepping stones across the water to their breezy reception area where huge wooden shutters open to allow for sweeping views of Seminyak and the ocean beyond. Treatments here include soothing massages, anti-ageing facials, and refreshing hydrotherapy treatments in their Vichy shower room. Insider’s tip: stop by around sunset to unwind against a sublime backdrop of ever-changing hues as the sun sinks into the sea.

Whether it’s food, fashion, or freshening up you’re after, Seminyak Village is your go-to indoor playground with products and prices that are accessible to all.

Not sure how to get there without wheels of your own? Save yourself time and hassle by taking advantage of their buggy service available for pick-up and dropoff at partnered hotels including Alila Seminyak, W Retreat & Spa, Bali, The Oberoi, Bali and many more. www.seminyakvillage.com

spoiled for choice.

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fassions

OK Lewis, motocross ... go! No seriously, when did it start and how long have you been involved in the scene?

I have been involved in motocross and racing since high school. Professionally since the age of 16. I’ve raced in Canada, Thailand, Japan, Malaysia, Australia, America . . . but now Indonesia is home and I am very happy here.

We hear you’re something of a champ?

I have been lucky enough to be winning here in Indonesia for the past few years. It was very hard at first because like all foreigners it was a culture shock and also there were many things to learn with the way of living here. Training, diet, travel, you name it.

There’s many things about Indonesia that are different when it comes to motocross racing, so of course it took me a while to figure out how things are done here.

No doubt you’ve had a few spills ... how many bones have you broken? What’s your worst crash story?

Injuries are for sure the hardest part of this sport and being a professional motocross racer I’ve had my share. There are too many broken bones to list but I would say back in Australia when I was 14 years old I tore my spleen and that was very scary. Also when I was 15 I broke both my legs at the same time and both bones. That was a hard time for sure.

How old were you when you got into the sport?

Started racing when I was 12 on a CR 80. In motocross terms that’s actually late.

Most kids start when they are five years old ha.

Tony Stanton talks to Lewis Stewart about breaking bones on the motocross track. And other adventures. Photos

by Arief Budiatna.

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Is it expensive to start?

It’s very expensive and my parents and family struggled a lot before I had my factory rides and support. I have seen both sides.

It’s every schoolboy’s dream to be a sponsored motocross racer, right? How does that work?

Sure. It was my dream since the first day I started.

It’s not for everyone though. It’s a lot of work behind the scenes that most people don’t see or understand. Being a professional racer is just like any other job. It’s work. Hard work . . . and something that consumes your whole life. You must have the will to do the work required to succeed.

We see there are a few notable youngsters coming up here . . . including Kelana Humphrey. What’s his chances of making it do you reckon?

Yes for sure Kelana and the sport of motocross in Indonesia seem promising. These kids are the real deal and I see a future for them professionaly as long as they are willing to put the hours in. Kelana is already so fast at such a young age. Also the rider I am currently working with right now, Delvintor. He moves to Mx2 next year and will join me and all the Mx2 guys. He’s going to surprise a lot of people.

MX man Lewis Stewart.

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Is there money in the game?

Yep, there’s money to it!

Tell us about the new Tibah MX Park track? Where else do you race?

I train at Tibah. I think it’s one of the best tracks in the country and has something for all skill levels and riders.

What’s the standard like here compared to say, Australia?

Indonesia is not on the same level as Australia. But the riders are getting better fast and the standard is heading up!

Those gnarly Husqvarna bikes rock ... but man they’re not cheap! Should we buy a KLX instead?

Ha for sure Husqvarna is at the top of the chain when it comes to a motocross bike. For the people that are just getting into Mx the KLX is an option. Once the rider gets better though you need a real motocross bike.

What’s the best course you’ve ever ridden?

I don’t have a best track I have raced on as there are so many. But I did just get back from Sugo Japan and that track was gnarly.

Loved it. I love a rutted track or sand.

We don’t see much of that in Indonesia.

What’s the best piece of motocross advice you’ve ever been given?

My parents taught me to have grit and work hard in life. I use this most days when I am training or racing.

What do you do when you’re not on a bike?

Enjoy life! This is Bali. It’s a beautiful place.

And Indonesia is a special country . . . there are things you can experience and see here that just don’t exist elsewhere. I love it.

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left: I ketut ferdika ferry junior. this page top and middle: Kelana Humphrey. Above: forrest minchinton

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events

t h e i nau g u r a l ya k magazine golf i n v i tat i o n a l at h a n d a r a . w i nn i n g .

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former miss indonesia inesh putri.

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events

in the swing at the yak magazine golf invitational.

They came, they swung, some conquered. More than 80 golfers joined the first inaugural Yak Magazine Golf Invitational at Handara Golf Resort in beautiful Bedugul, with players and sponsors from Bali’s leading hospitality, lifestyle and retail industries invited to take part.

A lucky few arrived by helicopter courtesy of Bali Adventures Sky Tours; an even luckier team of four won the top prize: a heli-golf trip to Handara. Others walked off with hotel stays at luxury properties on the island, bottles of premium Scotch, pairs of Oakley sunglasses, gift packs from Luxly . . . and everyone enjoyed free Albens Cider.

It all started with a desire to play more golf. Phone calls were made, dates were set, sponsors were gathered ¬– golf is a game that attracts a certain brand of brands, those that value the passion, the lofty ambition and the timeless style of an historic game.

Handara were keen – not only do they have a fabulous course set within the confines of a volcano, but they’ve embarked upon a renovation of rooms and facilities that once again puts the course up there with the best in the world.

Participants didn’t need to be asked twice. Former Miss Indonesia and pro golfer Inesh Putri jumped at the chance; the Par 5 Club brought the competitive heat; independents gathered and some were turned away.

There’s only so many golf buggies in the world.

As a hole in one prize we eschewed the regular Mercedes coupe – and went instead for a spectacular custom built motorcycle from Deus Ex Machina called ‘The Shank’. It went home alone.

Day One was practice day. We figured this might be slightly popular, but in the end Yak golfers booked out the entire resort. Set so wonderfully in the hills, bungalows come with fire places, and all were lit on the

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evening before tournament day proper when we set up a fabulous barbecue on the chilly lawns near the course. There was room for reflection. Early in the afternoon a new course record had been set . . . by a fourteen year old girl.

Tourney day separated the riff from the raff. Our very own favourite DJ Martin East won the day with a great score and walked off with Oakley products. XP Properties won the best-dressed award; the helicopter and drone kept all eyes skyward; prizes for nearest the line and nearest the pin kept us all focused on villa stays at Four Seasons, Sayan, Ritz-Carlton Bali and The Oberoi.

In the end we slept well after a great awards ceremony, with a sense of completion and a knowledge that the day was won by all – sponsors, players, the course and ultimately Bali, which bestowed upon us great weather and a yearning for more games in the hills overlooking a volcanic lake. We shall be back for more in 2016.

Winners Best Team: The Psychos: Alan Legg, Alain Bronner, Tim Ellis, Darren Kelso.

Best Individual (Men): Martin East Best Individual(Ladies): Ms Yulia Tori Most Birdies: Ms Inesh Putri Nearest to The Line: Putu Mahendra Longest Drive: Tim Ellis Nearest To Hole #2: Richard Carpenter Nearest To Hole #11: Dirk Goetz Nearest To Hole #14: David Jones Youngest Player: Azel Varennes (13)

sky high with bali adventure sky tours.

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oral pleasures

When it comes to creating the consummate cocktail, Bali’s uber beach venue Potato Head Beach Club Bali is more than a little avant-garde. Indeed the magical mixology team there are

arguably at the very vanguard of bringing flavour back to Bali . . . and their star is glittering.

Master Mixologist Dre Masso seriously excels himself when

creating new and seriously fantastic cocktails. This year

alone he has produced nearly 20 sensational new concoctions that will thrill many, frighten some and have thousands begging for more.

Integrating local flavours into top shelf spirits has

claimed his impressive imagination with swanky gins infused with lemon grass until the juniper flavour fuses with its

tropical sister and morphs into something fresh and new.

The bar kitchen produces some extraordinary ingredients

that make these mind bogglingly good cocktails possible.

Light and dark Caribbean rums are spiced by hand, rosella

syrup is crafted from dried hibiscus flower, pink ginger beer is created, pomelo sherbet is lovingly spawned while vodka

and local arak is infused with a range of delicious fruits and spices. Even the sugar cane is squeezed in a bespoke machine below stairs.

Some of the stars of the 2015 line-up include the feather

light sweetness of the Bali grown Rosella flower – or Hibiscus rosa-sinensis.

The amazing Rosella Margarita is a fresh and citrusy

melange of vanilla tequila, orange curacao, rosella syrup and citrus served shaken and delivered in a stem-less red wine glass rimmed with a rosella sugar and salt mix. This is a

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dedicated artisans on the island. Rich and creamy flavours

refreshing baby and a beautiful pale pink.

Continuing with the pretty-in-pink theme the fabulously

along with sharp tastes sit perfectly beside luscious meats

named Flowers for Zoe, which is named for both the Lenny

that are salty and sweet. The quintessential nachos are

of local flavours that strangely brings to mind Oxbridge

good.

Kravitz tune and a mixologist’s baby girl, is a masterpiece academic life. It would just be perfect for a summer lawn party at Henley - even if it is deeply ground in tropical earth with black rice infused Bali arak, Bali brem

-

or rice wine, black leaf tea and citrus topped with an

exquisite rosella foam that is so thick and creamy it needs a spoon to eat it. It’s pink too, which lightens the dark nature of the ingredients.

As Potato Head’s cocktail book – this is no mere menu –

states: “Indo Tiki Exotica”. Indo exotica indeed.

If one can believe it, the cocktails actually get even

more dramatic with this year’s smokin’ Volkano Agung, that has a centre piece of dry ice bubbling and steaming away in the middle of a polished coconut cup surrounded by a

gorgeous brew of light and dark Caribbean rums, pineapple infused arak, apricot brandy, pineapple, raw honey and citrus.

With a genius for the theatrical, which just may have

been influenced by the Blood Moon’s of 2015, Master Dre

offers a giant tonna shell as the cup for the Big Swirl,

which must sing to the inner pirate. Roiling together citrus and mango with splashes of vanilla tequila and vanilla arak this cocktail is softened with orange curacao, mango, raw honey and spice syrup.

For non-pirate-type men there is the Barong Zombie, which

is a funky tall Tiki stoneware cup brimming with dark and light rum, pineapple infused arak, orange curaçao, cherry liqueur plus the juices of pink pomelo, sugar cane and

pineapple topped with a dash of absinthe, Angostura bitters and mellowed with passionfruit syrup. This is a dark and dangerous drink that is rich and satisfying.

Another cocktail for the boys is the romantically named

Stormy Nyepi that is dark rum, vanilla arak, dark cacao,

citrus and raw honey mixed with pink ginger beer and served with a sweet sliver of star fruit.

If partying while attempting to keep an element of

health is your scene then the Loloh could be the perfect

contrivance for eternal youth with its mix of wheat grass, raw honey, cane juice and green leaf tea with lemongrass infused gin and a sprinkle of Moringa.

Sunset is ideal for the arrival of a classic mojito with

a Potato Head elegant spin on the original. Light and dark

Caribbean rums, fresh mint, bar-made spice syrup, citrus

and freshly made cane juice brings a whole new glow to the Bali sunset dream. It’s delivered with mojito foam crowned

with a puzzle of carefully carved cane sticks that are sweet to chew.

When the time comes for some superb morsels to munch on,

and this time always comes, don’t go past the sensational

ideal for a mid-evening grazing because they are so very Potato Head Beach Club opened in 2010 with the Kookaburra

as its signature cocktail. It has withstood the test of time

and has taken the crown as the chic destinations’ ‘Super Signature’ drink that has a following of its own.

“People just love this cocktail,” says our host Ayumi

Takada.

“We have a client who lives in Bali and every time she

has family or friends visiting she brings them here to try our Kookaburra. She has been doing this for many years.”

Unlike our featured friend, this Kookaburra is

lemongrass infused gin, vanilla sugar plus fresh mint and

citrus with a lush vanilla and passionfruit foam on top. It is outstanding.

A special treat that is off-menu is the three-course

24-karat cocktail, which begins with passionfruit tinted

sparkling white wine as an entrée and a tropical cocktail of passionfruit, mango and more in a martini glass as a main while a half passionfruit sprinkled with sugar is dessert.

“When guests see one of these leaving the bar other

orders starting flying in. It is a visual delight,” says Ayumi.

More mango mayhem and passionfruit possession can be

found in the muddled Mamagrinha, which has hallmarks these two fruits with light rum and vanilla infused arak.

Cool coconut is thick and creamy in the Nanas Colada,

which has a spiced island rum with dark rum and pineapple infused arak tempered with coco cream, fresh pineapple,

citrus and cut with Angostura bitters. The Coconut Martini is a wonder with lemongrass infused gin, Martini Bianco, lemongrass syrup and fresh coconut juice crowned with coconut flakes.

The time honoured evening caffeine cocktail is offered

in the Kopi Colada as a blended cocktail of coffee bean

infused arak with coco nutella, coffee and peanut milk from

the bar kitchen while the Kopi Cacao Martini takes the same arak and adds Kahlua, coffee and Bali chocolate sauce that is made on site.

Bar Manager Iwan Kurniwan says that the team is making

efforts to bring local flavours to guests in delicious drinks that make the Potato Head experience unique.

“Our Mixologist constantly explores new flavours and how

they work together. He works like a scientist in a lab and the result are always popular,” says Iwan.

While it was not physically possibly to test-drive all of

Potato Heads 2015 series of innovative new cocktails, there is always a promise to self to return. Possibly often.

Potato Head cheese and cold cut platter. Every cheese is

locally sourced and a tribute to the food making skills of

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ORAL PLEASURES

raisethelantern inesh & adrian’s new resto is a treat of viet-thai home favourites that hit the mellow yellow spot for lunch and dinner. words sara douglas. Photo: lucky 8.

She is a former Miss Indonesia who played champion golf with the national team and was born into a restaurant dynasty in Bali. He is an Australian-born Chinese Malay with a keen interest in food.

The two met while competing on a Singapore-based reality show called The Apartment and the rest, as they say, is history.

A couple of gorgeous young Asian kids who have food running through their veins, their very first Seminyak venture together, Bo&Bun, was an instant hit with diners. Their second urban Asian diner, The Lantern, looks set to do the same, and this, it seems, is just the beginning for this ambitious pair of overachievers.

Taking street food as their inspiration, cultures mix and mingle here happily. Adrian’s favourites from home include famous nyonya dishes with a creamy laksa served splendidly in pretty floral bowls and a stand-out Hainan chicken rice benefitting from a very ‘chefy’ technique he mastered at home.

As with many of the recipes, Adrian will work it out in his own kitchen time. Mastering professional techniques, like sous vide, which ensures juicy, perfectly cooked meat every time, is a labour of love for him. Their famous 12-hour pho, which also appears on the menu at Bo&Bun, is another triumphant dish on Lantern’s menu.

Located on Jl. Petitengett, opposite Mètis and shouldering up to La Baracca, there’s plenty of youthful enthusiasm at work here, but underpinned by a serious commitment to food and hospitality that raises the bar. The space has been used to great effect; a cool, clean industrial-like interior with brilliant flashes of yellow that are pretty and appealing.

The menu is divided into options that will suit many diners.

Starting with Something To Share, friends and families will love this option as there are lots of dishes to tempt. On this menu you’ll find things like their Thai fish cakes, smoked chicken wings, which are tangy and delicious, crispy pork belly bites (they do great pork and this 18-hour version which is then fried and served with a tamarind dipping sauce is deeply delicious). Also on offer

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is something for the vegetarians like their silken tofu served with fried shallots, lemongrass, chili and sweet soy dipping sauce and the Vietnamese spring rolls that sing with freshness. For those who can’t decide, a Lantern’s Platter offers half portions of the lot.

Next in line is the Braise menu. Here you will find the curries, laksas, claypots, a flavourful beef shank, the famous pho and a fiery tom yum goong.

There are a selection of wok dishes that hark to Thailand and a wonderful black pepper beef served with spinach salad and jasmine beef that hits the spot very nicely. Grills include the 24hour braised short ribs that fall off the bone and come with an Indonesian mango salad and rice or potatoes.

I saved the best for last, and for a sweet change, it isn’t dessert.

My eye is firmly fixed on their home-made Portugese custard tarts for another visit, they look fantastic. The really great news here is that despite the quality and the appeal of the design, there’s very little on this menu that is priced above the Rp100,000 mark, including the beef dishes. Most dishes average out at between Rp50k and Rp70k.

The drinks are also well worthy of a try, with iced Vietnamese coffees, healthy fresh juices, smoothies, home-made flavoured teas alongside some local and imported beer and even wine. Sourced locally, made by hand, Lantern does almost everything in house; from the spice pastes and slow cooked stocks to the flaky roti canai that is the perfect scoop for the deep, rich sauces.

With a lively streetscape, we happily wiled away a few hours drinking cold beers, watching the world go by, sampling one dish after another, catching up with a few friends and enjoying the generous hospitality, and the stories, of the two young owners.

Lantern is an easy choice for a casual meal with style that won’t break the bank.

www.facebook.com/lanternbali

laksa not laskaar.

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big six

sara douglas does Cafes with shops and shops with cafes. zing . . .

Peloton This buzzy café picked up speed from the moment it opened. Peloton is the word used for the groups who gather together during a cycling race in order to conserve energy.

The two Bali babies ( they aren’t babies any more), who launched Peloton, the café and bike shop, will need all of their energy to cope with the enthusiastic crew who show up here in droves. The menu is all vegan, the philosophy is to tread lightly and despite how nice it is, there’s enough naughtiness to attract the non vegans; like raw snickers bars and home-made Madpops. The coffee is served with a choice of coconut, almond or cashew milk, the cinnamon pancakes with grilled banana, strawberry, coconut yoghurt and coconut nectar are to-die-for. You could stay all day sampling the smoothies, kombucha teas and fresh juice mixes, and besides all that, you could buy a gorgeous bicycle and a range of accessories that will reduce your carbon footprint. It all adds up to delicious, healthy, vibrant fun.

Tel: 0859 5413 1451 www.pelotonsupershop.com Yak Map. O.1 Quince It’s all going on in this little Canggu neighborhood and Quince epitomizes a new level of sophistication. Run by a husband and wife who both have hospitality backgrounds, it’s half café and half luxe homewares. With a counter overflowing with vibrant, fresh fruit and vegetables and a stack of beautiful looking sourdough baguettes, the scene is set for a little taste test. Open for breakfast and lunch, the plates are almost as appealing as the taste, and chances are you will find something similar in the homewares selection.

The breakfast platter served on a board includes a bubble-crusted fresh roll alongside a home-style selection of fruits, muesli and yoghurt, a puff pastry gallette ( they make their own every day) and a tiny glass of spiced milk. Juices and jamu feature while a touch of Asian creeps in with Vietnamese-inspired salads, platters and sandwiches. The café sets the scene and opens to a beautifully presented home-wares shop, where co-owner Michelle features her own hand embroidered bed and table-wear, a hand-picked range of ceramics by Australian artisans and imported soft furnishings. It’s a little slice of heaven.

Tel: 081 338 522 529 Yak Map. O.1 Bungalow Living Slipping into this neighborhood favourite is easy, getting out without buying the lot is a tad more difficult. Also in the neighborhood of Berawa, Canggu, Bungalow is a labour of love that began with a café and grew and grew. Owner Giovanna is the cushion queen who also has her eye on the kitchen, which turns out delicious, healthy salads, breakfast specials, home-baked cakes, falafels, healthy breakfasts and a menu filled with goodness.

The café is home to the original shop, which proved so popular it spread to a gallery space across the road. A visit to Bungalow is like going to your favourite auntie’s house, the one who has travelled all over Asia and can pick the eyes out of a Goan marketplace.

Bungalow Living is the home of Boho-chic and is filled to overflowing with great cushions, cane chairs you want to spend an afternoon in ( if you can move the pets, she has poodles that are part of the furniture), crocheted throws and bits and pieces to turn a house into a home. Customers stop for a coffee or fresh-pressed juice and walk out with half the shop, it is that kind of place.

Tel: 0361 8446567 www.bungalowliving.com Yak Map. O.1

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Souq Downtown Seminyak and Souq has carved out its patch in an abandoned nightclub, but you would never know. Filled with luxe must-haves from a covetable range of cashmere to some very fine designer clothing and home-wares that will put a dent in your credit card but are very hard to resist. Accessories and home-wares come in all sorts of sizes from gorgeous range ceramics to the most luscious linen sheet sets. Refreshing, though it escapes being precious because it is all such amazing quality, you can almost convince yourself that that little piece from Souq will last forever. It may well. The café is the other side of the coin, part French street-side café, part Grandma’s kitchen with recipes from owner Sophie’s own well-thumbed cookbooks. From a luscious range of home-baked cakes and pies to the simple things that make you smile like perfect toasted sandwiches, salads from the garden and specials of the day that taste like your best friend created them. Small tables on the street and large communal tables inside, vie for space amongst the luscious wares that are crying out for you to touch them and take them home.

Tel: 0822 3780 1817 www.souqstore.co Yak Map. V.8 Housewives On Fire From punk princess to recycle queen, Housewives on Fire’s designer and creator, Patricia, has shed her leathers and turned her former factory into a funky café and shop on funky Jl. Mertanadi in Kerobokan. With the help of Grocer and Grind’s queen of cafes, Marie, Housewives on Fire is a little bit industrial, a lot bohemian and filled with an every changing collection of clothes, home-wares and accessories. The large part of the shop is the former factory, an industrial-stype space dominated by a big table down the centre lit by one of Patricia’s own creations, a recycled piece of timber she has turned into a light.

Various designers from the former leather queen and friends’ collections of biker boots and jackets to a sweet grouping of children’s clothes, collections from designer friends and a unique set of funky homewares colour the space. Through the back doors a garden café is often home to locals picking up some wi-fi time while knocking back machiattos and chowing down on home-baked muffins, fruit-filled breakfasts and café specials. For those who like their cafes with a twist, Housewives on Fire is pretty much like coming home.

Tel: 0361 737374 www.housewivesfire.com Yak Map. W.6 Biku One of Bali’s landmark cafes, Biku does more than splendid afternoon teas, Asian favourites, salads, sandwiches, main courses (the pies are a hot favourite) and home-style breakfasts, it is also has a kind of Alladin’s cave allure. With a collection of tea-inspired bric-a-brac that casually fills every available corner, stacked up in old sideboards and the like; from twee little teapots to old-fashioned tea cosies, knitted by someone clever, somewhere. It is also a bookshop, so for those flying solo, you will never run out of things to look at, or to read. The Ganesha bookstore offers a lofty range of Indonesian-inspired books rather than the trashy John Grisham novels sold down the road. There are coffee table books, a great range of non-fiction and more. Customers are welcome to pull up a sofa and browse through their chosen tome, which sit alongside a huge pile of National Geographic back issues and local magazines.

Tel: 085 0057 0888 www.bikubali.com Yak Map. O.5

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Ondy Sweeting gets swept away in the epic confines of the layar.

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venting in a villa

layar luxe.

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venting in a villa

pool in the sun, interiors made for fun and food from settimo cielo; perfection at layar.

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Chic architecture sets such a stylish scene it’s almost impossible to replicate or feign. It has the poignant power to relax as much as it has the ability to unhinge a design devotee. Architecture is emotional.

Ancient Roman architect Vitruvius asserted that a building must balance function, structure and beauty. The Layar Designer Villas and Spa captures this maxim and delivers a range of stunning holiday accommodation in the pulsing heart of Seminyak.

As a vacation destination The Layar has a deep insight into what guests adore and even anticipates what they might just desire.

On arrival we’re refreshed with a champagne flute filled with a luscious tropical concoction of passionfruit and lemon along with a chilled face towel to cool off. The complimentary delights just start here, such is the hospitality of The Layar.

Within moments of arrival we’re invited to book a complimentary 10-minute in-villa neck and shoulder massage – this for every guest in the group. Not just the organiser.

Next up is a unique concept for test dining with an invitation for an aperitivo of three types of antipasto at the sensational new restaurant Settimo Cielo, which is at the street front of the compound.

The iconic shell-like rooftops of the 23 villas that complete The Layar bear the unmistakable mark of Italian design duo GM Architects’ Gianni Francione and Mauro Garavoglia.

With a nod to the Sydney Opera House and the Auditoria de Tenerife in Spain, the shingled roof is curved and almost greets the ground at several points. This is offset by the interior with hard angles, partial walls and wide views of the landscaped gardens and sparkling pool.

Each of the villas – which include one, two, three and four bedrooms – deliver different floor plans that optimise the grounds for views, privacy and purpose.

The Layar is a utopia for couples and larger groups seeking blissful privacy.

The bedrooms are carefully tucked into distant corners and have two access points; one to the living space and another private entry to the pool and gardens via stonewalls or garden screens. Adults can play while the kids are sleeping or singles or couples can easily peel off from the main group game for quiet moments alone.

Interiors are light and airy with exotic tropical accents including lush internal gardens and open areas that capture the Bali breeze. Living areas come in pairs too with an open-plan living and dining space plus a mezzanine level with soft sofas and a TV setup gracing the two bedroom villas. In others the mezzanine is enclosed by glass and chilled down by superior air-conditioning.

Despite the casual vibe of The Layar, nothing has been left to chance.

The twin baths have padded head rests and a direct view of the night sky unimpeded by walls or shrubbery, the bedrooms are large and fabulously under-dressed with simplicity keeping it elegant and comfortable. Cast some clothing about and a few sets of shoes and it will be perfectly personalised. A spa service can be booked to provide in-villa massages, scrubs, yoga, cranial sacral therapy and just about any salon therapy guests might desire.

The pool, which has been precision designed to wrap the quirky floor plan, boasts a giant Jacuzzi and is flanked by soft green lawn and sleek sun loungers.

Even on the long driveway from reception to the villas a landscaped traffic island is planted with 40 mature frangipani trees heavily laden with blooms that scent the air exquisitely.

Villas on the high side of the property have been raised two metres from road level to create cool, quiet, havens where parties or family noise disturbs no one else. Unlike many ‘sardine-style’ holiday villas that are cramped together door-by-door, every villa entrance here is about 15 metres from the neighbours.

More than a few clever design tricks have been invoked and subsequently established the venue as forgiving and discreet. Thus repeat business is constant.

Among those to appreciate the luxe and calm of The Layar are Australian fashion icon Wayne Cooper, former Ms Universe Jennifer Hawkins and owner of FC Internazionale, Milano and Indonesian football club Persib Bandung, businessman Erick Thohir. In fact, The Layar is a bit of a hotspot for Indonesia’s high profile players including lawyer Hotman Paris Hutapea and politician Adi Bakrie. The celebrated Indian actor Salman Khan loves a stay as do the Indonesian movie star family Mischa, Marcel and Nadine Chandrawinata.

When it comes to dining, The Layar is the bomb. Each villa has workable kitchen kit but guests here tend not the put them to use. A call to reception will bring the BBQ to you. Have a party and staff will be wheeling a big gas burning BBQ into the garden along with a couple of butlers and serving staff. It’s a hot option so put the request in early.

Breakfast is blissful in-villa. Staff will check-in the previous evening to ask for your choice and it will be created freshly the next morning. Otherwise, head to Settimo Cielo for a five-star dining experience from a limited but impressive menu. Egg white omelet with lemon scented asparagus and English spinach filling served with roasted mushroom and rucola. Fresh juices, cut tropical fruits, house made strawberry jam and fabulous breads. The rustic flamed cooked Italian bread with a dash of olive oil is perfect.

The Layar is set in deepest Seminyak and attracts high-energy party people and families. Both appear to holiday beautifully within their own universe unhampered by the mores of the other. The villas are within minutes walking from the famous shopping and dining stretch of Jalan Laksmana. Some of the island’s best bars and restaurants are in close shot and a huge new three-level gymnasium has opened around the corner for the athletically inclined.

Long days of lounging by the pool make it the perfect time to take up that last lovely offer of a traditional Italian aperitivo. Escape into the cool confines of Settimo Cielo and enjoy this unique experience. Rather than a few little canapes, this is a generous plate with three examples of antipasti from the menu. It may include a tender yellow fin tuna crudo, or an aranchini stuffed with rice and a beef ragu that will have you dialling 0 to make a dinner reservation at this super local dining destination. www.thelayar.com

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sounds around

Lou N i etun z m eets founde r of It a ly ’ s T i m e Reco r ds G i a co m o M a i o l i n i w h ose found a t i on T IM E T O L O V E i s h e l p i n g wo m en a nd c h i l d r en i n B a l i a nd b e y ond . p h oto : step h a ne sense y.

SO Giacomo, when did you first come to Bali? And what were your first impressions?

It was in 1990, coming from Europe. Bali had a strong impact on me because at that time it was really wild.

Was your family musical? Who were your early influences?

No musicians in my family. Music for me is something innate. I was enraptured by music from an early age, and over the years it has become something maniacal and obsessive. In the beginning I was influenced by names like Bobby Orlando and Patrick Cowley who produced great music in the early ’80s.

Do you remember the first concert you went to?

I’ve never been a big fan of live concerts, I’ve always preferred clubs.

How do you see the music industry today with the web and all?

I’m very lucky because in my career I’ve seen all the innovations from MC to Vinyl to CD to download and now streaming. It has only changed the way we use it but at its base it’s still all about making that hit, and that’s me and my team's daily work.

Can you tell us a bit about your foundation on Bali?

My foundation is called TIMETOLOVE and it wants to help women and children all over the world. The idea was born thanks to my meeting with Robin Lim of the Bumi Sehat Foundation in Ubud last year. We organized a big charity event in Italy last September to support her foundation and we did something really great. Our aim is to organize and promote charity events in the future and help other Foundations all over the world.

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Top three favorite places in the world to play and why?

Bali, Ibiza and Miami. The first because it is a place that I really love; the others because they are very important for the dance music industry.

What's new in the pipeline at Time Records?

This last year has been really successful for us. Our artist Feder achieved great results in Europe and among others we represent another great act, Lost Frequencies, who are climbing the charts everywhere with hit singles. On November 20th we’ll be releasing the new single from Feder that is going to be huge! We have a lot of new projects for the next year that will keep Time Records the number one indie label in Italy and one of the most important labels worldwide.

What's your biggest challenge these days?

My biggest challenge is fighting against my crazy heart and I hope to finally emerge the winner [Giacomo recently underwent heart surgery].

What's your dream?

I have a lot of dreams, and before realizing many of them I always have another dream in my mind. The important thing is to achieve them.

Favourite footwear?

Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas as sneakers. www.timerec.it www.timetolove.it

...celebrate personal wellness

Sanur I Ubud I Nusa Dua I Jimbaran P. 62 361 705 777 F. 62 361 705 101 E. experience@kayumanis.com www.thegangsa.com www.kayumanis.com

music reviews

acoustica

Lou Nietunz fosters generic talent amid musical chameleons.

Album: Early Riser Artist: Taylor McFerrin Label: Brainfeeder Although this album came out last year, it shone through the pile of notable new albums which are getting harder to find these days.

As the son of Bobby McFerrin, this man has grown up around the world with genetic talent laid deep in his DNA. This album took six years to complete but the wait is well worth it.

As the title intimates, it’s a mellow morning-vibe which grows from first light and chirping birds to a spacey jazz-infused, brokenbeat journey. Postpartum gently clears the dream webs with warm keys and swirling cymbals that shake off the dust with a promise of better things to come. Degrees of Light opens the curtains to a new day with organically multiplying keys and a growing heart beat.

Vocals and lyrics get added to the mix by Nai Palm on The Antidote meandering between breathy chorals and rhyme knowledge which brings the vibe up to a chatty breakfast before Florasia gently laments lovers thrown apart and yearning for each other.

Filters percolate and rise on 4AM and the vibe grows more triumphant as chords dabble and ascend on Stepps. The tempo picks up on Already There with the wizardry of Robert Glasper and Thundercat as a marvelous meeting of the minds unfolds leading into Decisions and the soulful vocals of Emily King.

Blind Aesthetics submerges you like an incubation tank with shimmering ripples before washing into Place in My Heart and the gritty ephemeral vocals of Ryat. The finals tracks gently close with Invisible/Visible featuring papa Bobby and Cesar Mariano and a guitar flecked sayonara on PLS DNT LSTEN. There is such a relaxed confidence on this album, which some may find too mellow, but as a way to start the day, it’s one of a kind and one those that grows fonder with each listen. A supremely intimate album great for couples rising together or watching the sun come up after an all nighter. www.taylormcferrin.com www.brainfeeder.com

Album: Trad & Soul Artist: Jamie Aditya & Kelland Thomas Distributor: CDBaby.com & iTunes Comical chameleon and musical wunderkind Jamie Aditya has been getting around lately. Having just returned from recording a New Orleans Jazz and Gospel-fused cocktail with a university music department in Arizona along with a future funk album with DJ C-Pen in LA, all bases are loaded and the man knocks it out of the park.

A genuine and refreshing throwback redux of old-time classics, Aditya joined forces on this one with long time high school cohort Kelland Thomas and his all-star band of Tuscon musicians taking over two days to record a hot seven-track collaboration of laidback coolness, blending Jazz, Blues, Gospel and Soul with a modern twist.

Opening with a sizzling rendition of Clara Smith’s Tight Like That, the horns and keys vamp sublime and tightly in time are Aditya’s crooning vocals welcoming you to a smoky piano bar.

“Listen here folks, I’m gonna sing a little song, but you mustn’t be mad, I don’t mean no wrong . . .” plays along with soaring soprano sax riffs dancing with each other. Hey Mama follows suit with a saucy celebration of good times to be had and the big kid in all of us.

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Jesus Is On The Main Line tips the hat to more Gospel roots and reminds us all The Creator is never too busy for a call for back up, while No Regrets laments a lingering love gone dry in a more classic steamy Jazz style. Kermit Ruffins’ free floating reefer anthem Jack, I’m Mellow gets a stellar treatment taking you up for a swing in the clouds, and showcases Aditya’s wit in storytelling and his library of vocal characters.

Just Another Day turns the dial to blues and cherishes the soul of Sam Cooke, stirring a hot bubbling brew of grits and gumption to get us through. Viper Mad closes the album in style with Sidney Bechet’s ode to good greeneries.

As with all good albums, you are left wanting more and one can only hope this indie released yet golden offering of musical mastery gets the air time and appreciation it deserves. The friendship between collaborators is clear here and when that is coupled with their diverse musical knowledge we are taken back to more simpler and innocent times. Hats off to these two and all musicians in the room. www.jamieadityagraham.com www.kellandthomas.com http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/jamieadityaandkellandtho

advertiser's directory 158

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www.grandnikkobali.com MISCELLANEOUS Page 33 Bali Landscape Handara Golf Bali Tel: +62 81805661227 Tel: 288944 www.balilandscapecompany.com www.balihandaracountryclub.com Yak Directory P.4 Yak Map P.1 Page 35 Helicopter Sky Tour Karma Beach Club Tel: 721480 Tel: 8482202 www.baliadventuretours.com www.karmaresorts.com Yak Directory P.13 Page 69 Seminyak Village Kesari Villa Tel 738097 Tel: 082147828437/085339163375 www.seminyakvillage.com www.kesari.com Page FIC Yak Map E.8 Page 100 Third Millennia Health L Hotels Tel 737317 Tel: 8947898 www.thirdmillenniahealth.com

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astroyak

moodofthemoment

By Dr Deepak | astro-deepak@usa.net | www.astronlp.com | Skype: drdeepakvidmar

Pluto has to do with earthquakes and revolutions and nuclear energy and dictatorships and a lot more. Uranus has to do with sudden shocks and instability and electronic matters. They are clashing with each other again. From Dec 4th to 14th, Mars joins in and adds fuel to the fire. On Dec 6th around 2am UT, the Moon joins up and triggers everything off. It is an explosive energy that could happen in any sphere from economy to earthquakes. Sometimes things like this have a good result. Comet impacts like the one that killed the dinosaurs also provided the shock for amino acids to come together to make life. Our little brains are not big enough to comprehend the big picture of The Program to know what is good or bad.

aries

Shock and awe. Life may be short, but the faster you live it, the longer it will last. Anything at any time can come from any direction in sudden and unexpected ways. Time to be awake and alert. Time to keep your eyes open in the world of the blind or Existence will open them for you. Disruptions in relationships the last half of November and disruptions in everything else the first half of December.

The intention is positive, to change anything that is not correct for you according to your True Self.

leo

A lot of good fortune for you now. The money is good and creative ideas are flowing. Where the juice is best for you now is with the family. It is where people know you best and you really shine. The family you come from and the one you create, whether by blood or by spirit, is the stage your role is created for. It is your purpose, your legacy, and your contribution to the on-going drama of the human story.

Everything you have done for yourself to make yourself shine you have done for your family actually. You are needed by the tribe and you will be recognized.

taurus

In a world of chaos, you are a centre of stability for others. You may find yourself being busy helping the ones you love. No one else is as prepared as you are. No one else has the right tools for the job nor have they stockpiled extra resources that are needed now. While everyone else is blown this way and that, your feet are still firmly on the ground. Time to cross your “T”s and dot your “I”s, to clean your closet, make a shopping list and prepare.

One of 14,000 ways to express your love is to do things for the beloved.

gemini

You may have noticed by now in your life that every thought or deed is a duality and every direction has its opposite. There are at least three major dualities going on for you now. The first is between feet-on-theground practicalities and dreaming in the other dimension of possibilities. The second duality is whether to laugh or be serious. The third duality is whether to be happy where you are or to look for what is missing across the sea. Ultimately, it is all about how to express universal unconditional love in a way that can be seen and will last beyond your lifetime.

cancer

Cancer is famous for its sensitivity and for the shell it wears to protect that sensitivity from the winds that blow. But you are a seed and sometime in the life the shell must open so that you can reach the surface and grow toward the light. The first half of December may be that time, particularly for those of you born between July 4th to July 15th. The stronger the shell, the more it may feel like a shock.

It is the price of being born. Nothing is being harmed and nothing is being lost. The Essence is being released to find its way home in the Light.

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virgo There are some really happy happy energies for you now. Jupiter and Venus transits in your sign with some Neptune idealism to give it a heavenly taste.

But maybe something is holding you back from fully experiencing all of that joy. Maybe it is your life long search for perfection. This is why you are the first to notice the fly in the soup. To find perfection, you have to notice the flaw. When no flaw can be found, then perfection can be acknowledged. Anything holding you back from feeling joy now is childhood habit to be critical. Good to feel first, think later. libra

Maybe somebody in your life is being selfcentered and unfair. You try compromise, you try charm, you try being nice, and it is not working, not working, and the irritation is building up, building up, and then in a moment in the first half of December, you Explode. What to do?

Yes, your whole life is about harmony in relationships, but enough is enough. You cannot stand unfairness. It is not right. Not to blame yourself. War and Peace are two sides of the same coin. Eisenhower and many generals in WWII were Libra. They went to war to make peace.

scorpio

Happy Birthday and many more. This is a time of information gathering for you, the kind of information that is not in the mass media produced by spin artists. You need to know, to know the deeper truth, and you will dig dig dig until you fund it. You may link up with friends with similar interests to share what you find out. If there are any health issues, good to use alternative methods, particularly if they are new, unique, or deal with electric energy in some way, e.g., acupuncture or Tens. Good to save

your money or invest in real estate.

sagittarius Looks like you are settling down and staying focused on your work for a while. That’s the price of success. Your 10th House is full of transiting planets.

It has to do with work and career, but also purpose and recognition. If there is anything you have wanted to achieve in life, now is the time to do it. It may be too big a picture, too idealistic for mortal man to accomplish, but it is your job to practicalize it and try anyway. It is about improving what is rather than something new never-seen-before. Money may come from unusual sources. Happy Birthday. capricorn

The kind of energy happening now is effecting the whole world in a historical, global way and all the cardinal signs at a personal level in a specific way. It is not something that can be predicted or prepared for and there is no prevention or solution, even if someone intelligent was in control. All your wisdom, all the tools at your disposal, would be like a rowboat in the face of a 100 ft tsunami. Almost hate to tell you this, but the best response is faith, hope, and intuition. Nothing rational will work. Only the Divine.

aquarius Incredible awakening of unconscious archetypal forces that suddenly flood the conscious mind and try to be expressed. But there are no words, no proper nouns or even verbs, to express this deepest, deepest energy. It is an energy of the Beyond, of birth and death and rebirth. It is the essence of existence that this bioplasmic space suit is wrapped around. It is a prior knowledge you have always had in-between lifetimes and now it comes to you in your dreams. Or you just have bad dreams and wake up still asleep like the rest of us. pisces Beloved Precious One, love is here all around you. It is a particularly good time that happens only every 12 years. What makes so much possible for you now is the same reason that you may have been feeling lost, confused about who you are, and unable to make a decision.

Neptune transit. It has dissolved your ego and it is ego that gets in the way of love. The stronger the sense of Self, the harder it is to melt with the Other Self. Love is always here.

Always. It does not have to be searched for. Just being open to it fills you. You can forget who you are. Just Be.