The Yak #46

I am a queen, I demand good service and nobody touching my handbag.

By reservation only +62 361 731343 reservations@shirobar.com One Eleven 2 nd Floor #3 Pangkung Sari Seminyak 80361 Bali, Indonesia www.shirobar.com

Feed your imagination.

Volume Forty-SIX MARCH/APRIL/MAY 2015 The Yak Magazine Sophie Digby, Agustina Ardie, Nigel Simmonds Publisher's PA Indrie Raranta Creative Director Stuart Sullivan Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri, Ida Bagus Adi Accounting Julia Rulianti Distribution Made Marjana, Putu Widi Susanto, Gede Swastika, Untoro, Didakus Nuba Publisher PT Luxury In Print Licence AHU/47558/AH/01/01/2011 Advertising Enquiries Tel: (+62 361) 766 539, 743 1804, 743 1805 www.theyakmag.com

on the cover: Styling: the Ö. on location at luna2 studiotel. maiden love skirt and top available at sailors Falls. Jacket by Ozlem esen available at a.muse bali. hat by the prisoners of st petersburg. shoes by shakuhachi. knitting stylist's own.

e: info@theyakmag.com, sales@theyakmag.com The Yak Magazine, Kompleks Perkantoran Simpang Siur Square, Jl. Setia Budi, Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia

OK you know the drill. No part of this publication may be copied or

© PT Luxury In Print

of the authors not the Publisher. The Publisher reserves the right to

reproduced electronically or otherwise without prior permission from the Publisher. Opinions expressed within this publication are those refuse advertising that does not comply with the magazine's design criteria. The Yak will not be held responsible for copyright infringements on images supplied directly by advertisers and/or contributors.

The Yak Magazine Bali.

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The Yak’s monthly e-newsletter is sent to 10,000 mailboxes every month.

Archives, additional content and more at www.theyakmag.com

yPodBali Version 2.2 – The Yak's iPhone App – is available from the App Store.

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ESCAPE ANTING ARM AN ENCH NESE CH TS BALI EE M T CE N EA A R EG ET R EL T FRENCH CHFRON A, VISH BEA USA DU IN A LA T N5, N

88 BTDC, LO 1 849 28 WISATA (+62) 36 AN PARI IA - TEL: KAWAS ES N DO COM L. 363 IN TE 80 FI LI BA 9078@SO

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Swimm ing Poo l

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Luxury Pool Access

A taste of tropical luxury on the magical island of Bali BOASTING MAGNIFICENT VIEWS OF THE SHIMMERING SEA, SOFITEL BALI NUSA DUA BEACH RESORT’S SPACIOUS ROOMS AND SUITES OFFER SOPHISTICATED STYLE AND EXQUISITE COMFORT. REVEL IN A WORLD OF REJUVENATION WITH A SAVANT MIX OF WORLD-CLASS FACILITIES, FRENCH COSMETOLOGY AND TRANQUIL SURROUNDS. DISCOVER ALL OUR MAGNIFIQUE ADDRESSES IN OVER 40 COUNTRIES ON www.sofitel.com

contents

26

Yak On

28

Fridge Magnets

32

Charity Begins...

34

New Billings

Yakety yak

dates with destiny

one world

new in the hood

46 20

42

Product Collective

46

Andy Wauman

50

Made Wianta

52

Ev Jenya Kadnikova

out of the box

culture vulture

culture vulture

interwho

50

54

Kelly Tandiono

56

Davy Linggar

58

Maria Agnes

60

Tom Wawnik

interwho

culture vulture

people

people

52

54

contents P: 62 Omnibus: paradise lost?

68

88

yak fashion

No Vacancy

78

Miami Baby

82

Sunset Becomes You

86

Moon Rising

travel

constant wining

oral pleasures

56 24

oral pleasures

Ubud Forward

92

Big Six

94

Grilled Over Gatsby

96

Indulge

oral pleasures

oral pleasures

Venting in a villa

78

102

fashion freestyle

Client Clobber

110

Believe

114

What's What

116

Star Turns

82

sounds around

advertiser's directory

astro yak

86

“The quality of any advice anybody has to offer has to be judged against the quality of life they actually lead”, so said Douglas Adams, the ultimate hitchhiker.

We at The Yak have been offering advice for over a decade now and can say, with relative certainty, that we do indeed excel at quality, and we are pretty keen on the life we lead.

So once again we would love to offer you some quality guidance on all things Bali, Bali-laced, Bali-linked or Bali-esque.

Straight off, we are thrilled to recommend what events to go to in our hood, and in the global hood – we are sure that you will be interested to find out about a certain event in Japan in April! In One World we shine the light on a few charities that we think are doing a great job and our New In The Hood takes you to all the nouveau apertures that have recently opened their doors.

Time to take a right turn into the world of Art with interviews, articles and lots of glossy quality photography, here we pick up on what’s trending in our Yak world, and meet artist Jenya who is mad about mermaids and actress cum designer, Kelly Tandiono. Within the trendsetting youth, photographers Davy Linggar and Tom Wawnik juxtapose each other in the world of photography; they could not be more talented or more different.

When push comes to shove, our favourite Omnibus allows us to, once again, ponder on questions more philosophical – Is Bali finished? Quality food for thought here! Moving on to lighter climes our No Vacancy fashion shoot pops right out of the ballpark this issue, with The O once again taking us a few steps higher and to the left.

Of value, at least we think so, is our advice on what to drink, what to eat and where to stay – you can see we’ve been doing this a while now so we're quite confident you will agree.

And finally just before we say au revoir we encourage you to turn to Dr. Deepak for your Astroyak – awesome guidance here.

Lastly and most importantly, one of our best tips: May The Yak be forever with you.

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yakback Dear Yak, I'm trying to find Robert Rosen. Can you pass this note on to him? The editor of Vogue saw the magazine and the article about Robert's celeb shots and wanted to get in touch. We heard he's living in Bali?

Regards, Dominic Ryan

Dear Yak, Great news about yPod, your app, and the further reach for The Yak. I often spot the magazine in different places, great distribution!

Regards, Samantha Greer

The editor of Vogue, you say? Well, well, we are in thin air . . . . Robert is alive and kicking and living in Bali and yes, we are happy to connect you. Do pass on our best regards to Anna.

Dear Yak, So excited to find The Yak through Facebook. Been looking for some info about the famous magazine here in Bali, and almost everyone says it's you guys.

Anyway, still there's a mission I need to complete by finding you here. I'm Ephie from Samantha Robinson Handmade, and we would love to put some advertisement of ours in your magazine, would it possible?

Regards, Ephie Samantha Robinson Porcelain

Dear Yak, Such a great magazine! Visually and editorially.

Regards, Hana Bojangles Ta very mooch like.

We do like to get around.

Dear Yak, I read a couple of Yak’s during my recent visit to Bali. If the shoe fits Cinderella, you are going to the ball!

I truly enjoyed the mag. Thumbs up to your team and all their great work!

Regards, Heidi Alamanda Thanks Heidi.

In The Lap Of: Paris Hilton Our beloved PH sashayed through Bali once more this season and stayed at the equally glam W Retreat and Spa with a sidetrip to Ubud, where she was Insta'd – according to the UK's Daily Mail – with the "adorable" primates at Monkey Forest. Not that we're simian haters per se but when was the last time any of you had a love-in with the overly aggressive little darlings up there? Hold on to your iPhone Paris, these scamps are now well versed in handphone theft, we hear.

calendar

SUSAN HU COUNTS THE DAYS.

Bali Live International Jazz Festival FOR those who missed the Java Jazz Festival, or those who made it but are still craving more smooth and sultry rhythms, the Bali Live International Jazz Festival brings some of the same amazing artists to the island of the gods.

The festival takes place from March 9 to March 15, and the line-up includes crooners, strummers, and wailers like Indra Lesmana, Nita Aartsen, John Primer, Jim Larkin, Maurice Brown, Magnus Lindgren, and Israel Varela. Multiple concerts will kick off at a variety of locations around the island including Jazz Café Ubud, Ku De Ta, and Ryoshi House of Jazz, and the final blowout bash will be held outdoors at Taman Bhagawan. www.balilivefestival.com Nyepi Ah Nyepi – that time of year when the entire island shuts down for one whole day of glorious silence. Come March 21st there will be no traffic, no thumping bass from the If you’re in the USA . . .

March 17 — New York City St. Patrick’s Day Parade: Gear up in green and celebrate the luck of the Irish at one of the world’s oldest and largest parades. The New York City St. Patrick’s Day Parade has been taking place since 1762, and this year it will feature more than 200,000 marchers and attract more than two million spectators. The parade starts at 11am on Fifth Avenue and ends around 5pm at the Irish Historical Society, and you can be sure that New York’s Irish pubs will be packed both during and after the parade.

April 10 to April 19 — Coachella (California): Get ready to rock out to some of the hottest musical acts around at Coachella, a hip desert party that spans two weekends and boasts multiple stages featuring hip hop, indie rock, jazz, and electronic dance music, as well as sculptures and art installations. This year the star-studded line-up includes Jack White, David Guetta, Alabama Shakes, Azealia Banks, Drake, Danny Tenaglia, Bad Religion and Raekwon to name just a few. For the complete Coachella experience, snag yourself a camping spot either on-site or off.

May 20 to May 23 — New Orleans Wine and Food Experience: Vibrant Creole cuisine and culture are the focus at this foodie festival that brings together professional chefs, international winemakers, culinary connoisseurs and F&B leaders from around the world. For three delicious days select restaurants will offer special menus, celebrity chefs will host seminars and culinary experiences, vintners will offer tastings of over 1,000 wines, and the streets of the Big Easy will come alive with art, music, cooking competitions and galas.

If you’re in Spain . . .

March 14 to March 19 — Las Fallas (Valencia): Each year the residents of Valencia honour their patron saint, Saint

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nightclubs, no bright lights, and no roosters or barking dog . . . er, maybe a few roosters and barking dogs. Before the quiet times begin, you can expect to see colourful Melasti processions to the sea, massive ogoh-ogoh monsters in every village, and a whole lot of offerings going down. For those who want to enjoy the day of silence to its fullest, there are plenty of hotels around the island offering fabulous Nyepi packages that include accommodation in deluxe rooms, gourmet meals, spa treatments and cultural activities.

the ARMA stage will light up with local and international musicians who are sure to get the crowds grooving under the stars. The festival will take place from March 31 to April 5, and passes are selling out faster than you can say ‘om’. www.balispiritfestival.com

Joseph, with a fiery five-day festival of colourful processions, firecrackers and noisemakers. But what makes the festival truly unique are the fanciful fallas. For months leading up to the festival, artists come together to create huge figures called fallas out of wireframes, paper-mâché, wax, Styrofoam and paint. The figures range from satirical portrayals of politicians to pop stars and cartoons, and during the festival they are paraded with pomp around town. On the last evening of the festival, the fallas are gathered in various plazas, packed with fireworks and set ablaze for a grand pyrotechnic display.

in, simply take the dough to the kitchen area and the cooks will put it through a hand crank, boil the noodles, and serve them to you in steaming dashi broth.

Waisak Festival IF you are going to commemorate Buddha’s birth, enlightenment, and death all on one day, you may as well do it somewhere suitably spiritual – say somewhere like the world’s biggest Buddhist temple. On June 2 Borobudur BaliSpirit Festival NOW in its eighth year, the BaliSpirit Festival is a spectacular will be a hive of activity as Buddhist monks and laymen five-day celebration of yoga, dance, healing and world music circumambulate the temples, light joss sticks, chant mantras and meditate from early in the morning until well into the that attracts thousands of free-spirited people from around the globe. Each day festivalgoers can take part in workshops evening. After dark thousands of paper lanterns are lit and showcasing all types of yoga, dance, sound medicine, kirtan sent soaring towards the stars to represent enlightenment and chanting. The Dharma Fair and night market will feature for all living beings. Keep in mind that although Borobudur is a popular tourist attraction, it functions as a working temple healthy organic food and the Healing Huts will offer Reiki, traditional Balinese healing, and chakra balancing. After dark on this day.

If you’re in Japan . . .

April 2 to April 27 — Osaka Cherry Blossom Festival: Spring is one of the most scenic times to visit Osaka, as this is when the cherry blossoms are out in full force. During the Cherry Blossom Festival people of all ages and nationalities spend hours strolling through the parks, picnicking under the trees, and appreciating the beauty of the blossoms. The best spot in the city to see the flowers is at the Osaka Mint Bureau where there are over 300 cherry trees, more than 120 varieties, and a special cherry blossom tunnel formed by the arches of the tree branches. Admission to the Osaka Mint Bureau gardens is free.

April 4 — Techno Udon (Tokyo): Ever felt a burning urge to hit the dance floor and bust a move while kneading udon with your feet? Yeah, us neither, but they say you should try everything at least once. Techno Udon is an eclectic electronic dance party that was created in opposition to a Japanese law that restricts dancing indoors at venues without proper licensing. Upon arrival at the party at Tokyo Tower, each guest will receive a plastic bag of udon dough to throw on the floor and stomp on while getting down to bass lines and beats by top Japanese DJs. Should hunger kick

April 5 — Festival of the Steel Phallus (Kawasaki): Known locally as Kanamara Matsuri, this bizarre spring festival is based on the legend of a women who harboured an evil demon in her nether regions. After the demon castrated two of the women’s husbands on their wedding nights, the women enlisted the help of a blacksmith, who created an iron phallus to break the demon’s teeth. Now every year people from far and wide descend on Kawasaki to venerate the iron penis at a special shrine and pay homage to it in the form of penis statues, candles, masks, and lollipops.

Festivalgoers pray for good luck in business, birth and marriage, and proceeds from the festival go towards HIV research.

If you’re in Vanuatu . . .

April 2 - June 27 — Naghol Land Diving (Pentecost Island): When A J Hackett created modern day bungee jumping, he based the sport off an ancient ritual performed by the Sa villagers of Pentecost Island in Vanuatu. At the start of every yam season the villagers erect a wooden tower with five platforms ranging from three metres to 30 metres above the ground. Every Saturday from the beginning of April to the end of June, men of all ages tie liana vines around their ankles and leap off the tower to the soft mud below. The land diving is a rite of passage for young men, as well as an expression of masculinity for all, and the villagers believe that the jumps promote good health and a bountiful harvest.

giving back

stephanie mee on philanthropy.

Yayasan Kemanusiaan Ibu Pertiwi FINDING well-paid employment in Bali can be a struggle, especially for those with little to no formal education. There are hundreds if not thousands of families across the island who can barely afford to put food on the table, and children are often pulled from school to help make ends meet at home. Without a university education or even the basic skills needed to survive in the workforce, Balinese youth have little hope of escaping the cycle of poverty.

Yayasan Kemanusiaan Ibu Pertiwi (YKIP) aims to improve the lives of marginalised families by providing vocational and educational scholarships from elementary school all the way up to university. The goal is to keep children in school and create opportunities for sustainable income so that families can strive to rise above the poverty line.

Yayasan Kemanusiaan Ibu Pertiwi translates to “Humanitarian Foundation for Mother Earth” and it was originally established in October 2002 in direct response to the Bali bombings. The initial organisation was the Bali Recovery Group, which spent the first six months after the bombing providing support to the various NGOs who came to Bali to help with relief operations.

For more than a year after the tragic bombings, YKIP focused on providing immediate aid to the victims and their families. However, after the victims' basic necessities were met, YKIP shifted their focus to health and education issues for economically disadvantaged families.

With guidance from David Magson, CEO of software company Mitrais, and Mark Weingard of Inspirasia Foundation, YKIP provides educational support and assistance to those in need through programs like the KEMBALI Scholarship, KIDS Scholarship, University Scholarship and Vocational Scholarship.

Through the generosity of donors the organisation provides tuition fees, uniforms, school supplies and books for younger children, as well as accommodation, living expenses, and vocational education costs for older students.

Donors and sponsors are always needed, as are internship opportunities for sponsored students. In addition, YKIP welcomes volunteers who can offer soft-skills training for the sponsored students in areas like English, leadership development, personality development, human resource management, small business management, financial management, motivation and work ethic. www.ykip.org

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GUS Bali THESE days it is hard to pick up a magazine, scroll through social media, or even have a conversation at a cafe in Bali without coming across the issue of waste management. In fact, one needs only to walk down the beach or alongside one of Bali’s many rivers to see the problem first-hand.

While there are plenty of people who could talk for hours about how serious the problem is and what needs to be done, others like the good people at GUS Bali are actually actively producing positive change.

Yayasan Gelombang Udara Segar (GUS) was established in 2002 as a non-profit organisation dedicated to improving the environment of Bali. The foundation was created in response to the escalating problems of trash mounting in rivers, beaches and drainage systems around the island, environmental health hazards like toxic fertilisers and pesticides, the burning of plastic, and a lack of public toilets and basic sanitation in villages.

To help clean up the island and raise awareness about environmental responsibility, GUS is involved in many activities and projects. They are most famous for their beach clean-ups along some of Bali’s most popular strips of sand, and they are currently working alongside like-minded individuals and organisations on Project Clean Uluwatu, an initiative to remove and manage waste at Suluban Beach.

Other initiatives include visiting schools to increase knowledge and motivation to improve the environment, visiting villages to introduce and encourage composting, recycling, waste separation and organic gardening, offering non-toxic pest control services for mosquitos, ants and termites, and free environmental consultations for communities and businesses.

You can help GUS continue their great work by becoming a member, sponsor or donor via their sponsorship form on their website. You have the option to contribute each month or make a stand-alone donation. Members, sponsors and donors will receive the organisation’s regular newsletters and accounting reports, plus a shout-out on their website. You can also follow GUS’ activities and receive eco-friendly tips and news on their Facebook page. www.gus-bali.org Villa Kitty THE story of Villa Kitty began in 2009 when Elizabeth Henzell was asked to take care of three tiny kittens that had been dumped on the side of the road and left to die. Time was tight but Elizabeth knew two young men who were

looking for work, so she hired Kadek Purnata and Wayan 'Jopi' Budiarta to care for the cats in the Cats and Kittens section of a local dog shelter in Ubud. With the generous help of her friend Robert Elliot, Elizabeth managed to finance the staff wages, food, medicine, litter, and equipment needed for the abandoned cats.

It wasn’t long before the Cats and Kittens section was housing more than 60 kittens and Elizabeth’s tireless team had grown to eight people including two vets, four vet assistants, and a cook. It was clear that the shelter was no longer big enough to support their needs.

In October 2010, Melbourne native Rosemary Fry saw the work that Elizabeth and her staff were doing and she teamed up with Robert to donate funds to move the cat shelter to its own much-needed separate building.

Villa Kitty Bali was established on March 17, 2011 in a house in Lodtunduh that was purpose-built to shelter and care for abandoned cats and kittens in Bali. Not long after the shelter opened its doors, friends of SCARS, the Sunshine Coast Animal Refuge Society, visited and offered to pay for administrative necessities like a computer and printer. Finally, in 2012 Villa Kitty was able to acquire the land next to the original house and build a separate quarantine wing and hospital for the cats.

Today the shelter has 23 staff members headed by the highly respected veterinarian Dr. Karnata, and together they care for over 120 cats. The mission is to provide safe and comfortable shelter for abandoned cats and kittens, as well as quality vet care and advice, sterilisation, rehabilitation, responsible cat adoption and fostering services, education programs for responsible cat ownership, and emergency services for injured cats and kittens.

In addition, Villa Kitty runs the Every Child Deserves a Kitten programme in collaboration with the SOS Children’s Village in Tabanan. The program began in 2013 when Villa Kitty brought ten cats to the children in the foundation so that the cats could provide a bit of extra love and the children could learn responsible pet ownership skills. The project is ongoing and is made possible by donations from sponsors.

If you would like to adopt or foster a cat, you can visit the shelter or contact Elizabeth at elizabeth@villakittybali. com. You can also make a difference by volunteering or donating via their PayPal account. www.villakitty.com

Culture and Class at Inaya Putri Bali THE Inna Hotel Group has recently launched their five-star brand with the luxurious Inaya Putri Bali, a sprawling resort set in lush gardens overlooking a pristine white sand beach in Nusa Dua. As soon as you pass through the soaring entrance fashioned after a Balinese rice barn, you are immersed in the spirit of Bali with seven themed villages, each with its own unique identity represented by Indonesian art and stonework. There are also living spaces to suit every type of traveller with five levels of luxury to choose from including guest rooms, suites, and private villas with their own secluded plunge pools.

Tel: 0361-771020 www.inayahotels.com

Gardin Bistro & Patisserie BROUGHT to us by Jason Kurniawan, the man behind FABLE nightclub and Odysseia Restaurant in Jakarta, Gardin Bistro & Patisserie brings a gothic European vibe to the dining scene in Seminyak.

The intriguing building features arched doorways, an intimate dining room decked out in wood and stone, and a glasshouse section where diners can watch the clouds pass overhead in the day and sup under the stars by night. Executive chef Tommy Rook, has created an enticing menu of classic Balinese and Indonesian dishes made with local produce and prepared with international techniques and flair. In addition, Gardin offers one of the largest dessert selections on the island with more than 30 sweet treats on offer. After dinner night owls can move the party to Mirror nightclub in the back for cool cocktails and luscious beats under another glass roof.

Tel: 0361-8499799 www.facebook.com/gardinbali 36

Art in Motion FARAH Khan’s Pre-Spring/Summer 2015 collection may just be her most bold and iconic yet. Inspired by pop artist Roy Lichtenstein, colour is the star in each of the pieces, which include cropped tops with attention-grabbing splashes of animation, and graphic mod-length tunics and blouses. Nothing goes below the knee, and the tops are the perfect match with slim slacks or short shorts from the existing collections. Sequined and sassy, energetic and youthful, the brand’s homage to Lichtenstein’s work takes wearable art to a whole new level. www.farahkhan.com Yak Map. N.4

Nikki Beach Bali THE Nikki Beach brand sets out to celebrate life every day through dining, entertainment, music, fashion, film and art in some of the world’s most sought after destinations, and they are proud to finally include Bali in that list. Jack Penrod, owner and founder of Nikki Beach Worldwide, chose Bali as the location of the brand’s 12th permanent beach club for the island’s unique culture, relaxed energy, and natural beauty. Located within the five-star Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort, this multifaceted beachfront venue will offer refreshing cocktails and endless champagne at multiple bars, an extensive menu of delectable dishes representing all the countries Nikki Beach is located, plus top-class entertainment and signature Nikki Beach themed days.

Tel: 0361-8492900 www.nikkibeach.com/bali

HOLY MOLY A new crab shack’s in the YAK sells seafood by the seashore in Petitenget. Cajun Creole inspired seafood includes local and imported crabs . . . and believe me they are served up large! Crawfish, mud crabs, shrimp and clams are all local, and bare hands and mallets are the tools of the trade, so be prepared to get down and dirty at shared communal tables or tête-â- tête while licking your fingers at the pickings. Icy cold brewskis round out the experience with signature margaritas and the usual sides of corn-on-the-cob, Cajun fries, sweet potato fries and calamari can be ordered Cut the crab and come on down.

Tel: 0361-4743191 www.theholycrab.co.id Yak Map. Q.3

Hujan Locale IN many Asian cultures rain represents good fortune, prosperity and a good harvest which is just one reason Chef Will Meyrick of Sarong named his latest venture after this element … that and the lush Ubud location, which is known to have the occasional shower or two. The two-storey space features colonial accents like wooden shutters, rattan chairs and vintage glass lighting, while modern urban touches, like softened concrete and graphic linear drawings, place it firmly in the twenty-first century. The philosophy here is to use “found and foraged” ingredients sourced from local farmers or the kitchen garden to create simple, fresh, slow-cooked Eastern dishes with hints of Western influence. Expect cool cucumber martinis, beetroot margaritas and intriguing dishes like the honey roasted pork hock with highland black pudding, cauliflower pickles and a truffle white bean puree.

Tel: 0361-8493092 www.hujanlocale.com

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Butcher's Burgers IF it's burgers and bourbon you’re after this is heaven for you. This is a chilled out, relaxed place with a funky vibe.

There is a Bourbon menu boasting nine different Bourbons. And the beer is COLD and the burgers - though the menu is not so extensive are mouthwateringly good. The secret to their truly great taste is the dry-aged beef. Try the Wu Tang burger with kim chee for an unusual twist, or the Double Happiness to satisfy the biggest of appetites. The burgers are sizeable to share so order a couple and get to taste more than just one. There's also a childrens menu with mini versions of the big fellas with kid-friendly sauces.

Top of the wish list has to be the Duck Fat fries and the spacious parking around the back.

Tel: 0361- 8974004 Yak Map. Q.3

Journey Through the Arts of Asia THE exclusive Seminyak sanctuary, The Legian Bali, already receives accolades for its designer sea-facing suites that feature arts and artworks from around the Indonesian archipelago. Now it provides guests an even more culturally inviting experience with their newly opened art gallery. The Gallery at The Legian Bali showcases oneof-a-kind pieces of contemporary art, small sculptures, antiques and light furniture that have been handpicked for their exquisite craftsmanship, colours and materials from countries like Tibet, Burma, Mongolia, China, India, Northern Thailand and Indonesia.

The gallery is open to both in-house and outside guests from 10am to 8pm daily.

Tel: 0361-730622 www.ghmhotels.com/en/legian-bali Yak Map. M.7

Monieur Spoon MONSIEUR Spoon, one of Bali’s best French bakeries, organise pastry cooking classes for the sprogs in their Batu Bolong Canggu premises. Great fun and educational, we of course wil be expecting them to cook us a quiche one day. Speaking of quiche and all things delicious, the MS boys are now introducing a new lunchtime menu including, of all things, delicious traditional quiche, savory and sweet crepes, savory tarts and a variety of organic salads, all starting from IDR42K nett. Look out for the sign of the ":spoon" at three locations around the hood.

Tel: 0878-6280-8859 www.monsieurspoon.com Yak Map. K.1

Puttin’ on the Ritz THE name Ritz-Carlton alone is enough to conjure images of sophistication and splendour, so it was with much anticipation that we waited for the brand’s grand return to Bali. When the doors of the Ritz-Carlton Bali in Nusa Dua finally opened, we were not disappointed. Set on the edge of a cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean, the resort features 313 rooms including 34 clifftop and ocean-view villas; six restaurants and lounges serving the finest local and international cuisine; the Ritz Kids' Club in its own dedicated building; a world-class spa set in verdant gardens; a separate Ritz-Carlton Club level with a private pool and sundeck; and a wedding chapel overlooking the ocean. Guests can also access the beach and beach club via a 70-metre glass elevator offering spectacular scenery all the way down.

Tel: 0361-8498988

www.ritzcarlton.com/bali

CALLING CULTURE VULTURES EVER since BIASA ArtSPace has opened we have been exposed to world-class artwork from many talented local and international artists and this month sees no change in the trend as they premiere Everywhere We Go a new exhibition in collaboration with Gaya Ceramic Art of Ubud featuring American ceramic artist Ryan Mitchell. This fantastic exhibition showcases Ryan’s artwork which is based on extreme contrasts and cultural images that juxtapose the cultural contradictions that make up Bali’s unique landscape and peoples. During his residency Ryan had the pleasure of working alongside Danish artists Lars Calmer in an intensive studio environment that he says “really stimulates both your senses and your thought process, more than just traveling “. Ryan says: “I tend to look at aspects of our environment that escape beyond intention, backsides of buildings, crumbling infrastructure, trash cans or lack thereof . . . in Bali, these kinds of things are in great abundance and in immediate proximity to other aspects of life that are of clear intention, efforts like decoration, beautification and infrastructure of religious and spiritual purpose.” On show only until 15th of March be sure not to miss this unique exhibition.

Tel: 0361-730308 www.biasagoup.com Yak Map. V.12 FEELING BLU BLU Restaurant-Bar and Lounge, at the new Golden Tulip Devins Hotel Seminyak, is located just across the rooftop pool so it offers the chance of taking in views of the Indian Ocean at sunset while enjoying the unique flambé station with its mix of Asian and Western dishes on hand. Evening DJ sessions pump up the vibe and get you ready for a night on the town, this is a perfect place to start your evening out or end with a romantic nightcap.

Tel: 0361-8499555

Dare2Wear LOCALLY designed and made in Bali this is beautiful active wear for active women of all ages and size. Everyone can look great in these outfits even when indulging in your favourite pursuits. Or you can look fabulously casual in the gorgeous leisure wear, or strut your stuff in the elegant and exclusively designed evening or beach wear. It's all very playful while being functional and cool. There is an outfit to get you from Yoga or the gym in the morning, and then to lunch and an afternoon on the sand or by the pool and then into the evening for cocktails and dinner.

There really is more to this label than sports apparel. All made with you in mind and the materials used are for your all round comfort.

The shop in Batu Belig sports a wide range and all at reasonable prices. www.dare2wear.com Yak Map. R.2 40

www.goldentulipdevins.com

Yak Map. R.8

BOOGIE NIGHTS FOR serious “pahty" people, for whom a 24 hour party is a must, head to Hu’u Villas, which are smack dab in the middle of Petitenget and just behind the infamous Hu’u. Hu’u Villas are perfect for either kicking back in an oasis of greenery with a deluxe layout or for an all-out party weekend. The nine villas can all be interconnected with pumped up iPods loaded with Hu’us in-house DJ’s magnificent mixes and fully kitted out bars in each residence making Hu’u villas a perfect post for hens' and bucks'-night weekends where you can roll out of the clubs and into your cribs.

Tel: 0361-849 9130 www.huusvillasbali.com Yak Map. M.6

House of IOCO THEY had me on entering . . . racks of light linen cloth in breezy colours. Elegant threads for those who like layering and who love the tropics; those of us who insist on “pure cuts, exquisite finishing, fresh designs and beautiful natural materials”. House of IOCO, having re-energised the brand, opened their massive flagship store on Sunset - the space also houses Heliconia, Bali’s popular flower shop and Noa, a futuristic salon with Japanese technology. Loads of parking and fabulous sales make it a must-get-to venue at the Seminyak end of Sunset. www.house-of-ioco.com Yak Map. X.12 V.10

Land Ahoy in Franksland IN barely a couple of years, fashion label Franksland, driven by Franklin Firdaus, has taken Bali in waves of anchors and stripes; elegant shirts and shorts; icons of sailing the seven seas. Recently creating his female line, and working the social media, Franksland is storming through the beaches and parties of Bali with his alternative fashion brand, aimed at the fashionably mobile, budget conscious.

Limited edition pieces and colours that sail the spectrum - imagine Vibrant Mutant, Pale, Pastel, with a healthy presence of Energetic prints and an accent on ethnic, Franksland fashion and their fashion campaigns have truly set sail on the island of Bali. Check out the FB page for locations of their shops and pop up boutiques. www.frankslandblog.weebly.com Yak Map. T.11

Big Apple ALBENS Cider is making waves with its range of flavoured beverages based on the mighty apple. We have personally sampled a couple of cases (hic) and it will come as no surprise to anyone else who has tried it that the tipple is pretty top-notch.

Brewing methods are entirely natural using quality apple juice and high quality flavourings that include Apple and Mango and Apple and Strawberry. And – being a premium booze outfit – the company is also sponsoring some epic events, most recently in March, Fat Boy Slim at Potato Head Beach Club. www.albenscider.com Woah Constrictor RELIVE your youth and hit up Waterbom’s four newest slides. Constrictor is the longest waterslide in the world and it offers a swiftly winding tube ride above the trees. The Green Vipers use Silk-Tec technology to shoot you along a series of slick twists and turns, and Python can fit up to four people on a circular tube that surges and swirls its way down a dark passage and then slings you across a six-metre open-air span. Adrenaline is provided. Regular thrills and spills in the form of the park’s original slides and attractions – including some great food of all varieties – are all still intact, regulars will be happy to know. www.waterbom-bali.com Yak Map. C.12 42

MoonLite Kitchen and Bar SEDUCTIVE sunset cocktails, sea views and sultry rhythms are all part of the experience at Seminyak’s newest rooftop drinking and dining spot, MoonLite Kitchen and Bar. Set in the Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa, the former SOS Supper Club space has been completely refurbished to offer a fresh contemporary vibe in the upscale bar and lounge and sleek dining room, as well as on the open-air deck overlooking the Indian Ocean. You have your choice of classic or creative cocktails, tapas and light bites on the deck, or heartier meals in the dining room, all complemented by live bands playing chilled out tunes every night between 7pm and 10pm.

Tel: 0361-737755 www.bali.anantara.com Yak Map. P.11

“Man Up” Facial

60 minutes

“Lanang Bagus” Massage

90 minutes

Top Performance 180 minutes

Deep Heat 90 minutes

Style + 270 minutes

Metro Mani/ Pedi

60 minutes

W RETREAT & SPA BALI - SEMINYAK JL. PETITENGET, SEMINYAK BALI, INDONESIA awayspa.wbali@whotels.com T: +62 361 4738 106 F: +62 361 300 2450

OLMO Watch Italian analogic automatic wood watch made from solid MAHOGANY, OLIVE, WALNUT, ROSEWOOD & EBONY wood. straps recycled plastic. IDR4.900.000 www.biasagroup.com

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Ballon chair (USD360)

Bistrot Chair (USD590)

Bistrot Tolix Chair (USD95)

www.Balquisseliving.com

www.Balquisseliving.com

www.Balquisseliving.com

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www.jenggala.com

Starfish drop silver earrings rp260.000 www.kapal-laut.com

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www.jenggala.com

handbag sugar bowl rp100.000

www.jenggala.com

teacup/coffee cup rp90.000 medium handbag teapot rp520.000

Josh Hall Slim Bird & Eagle By Deus Rp16.500.000 www.deuscustoms.com

47

culture vulture

W O W

M A N Artist Andy Wauman embraces life in all its forms.

Portrait: Anthony Dodds.

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wauman's world

49

culture vulture 50

Ok, a portrait of the artist as a young man please.

Where did you grow up?

I grew up in the city of Antwerp in Belgium. Went into skateboarding at the age of 14. Skateboarding was important to me. It was a way to express myself and it functioned as a creative outlet. At the age of 15 I became inspired by books, especially poetry. I discovered the poetry of the Beat Generation, all the poets that were connected to the Romantic era, such as Mikhael Lermontov, Percy Byssche Schelley and many others . . . I became more and more fascinated by language and started writing poetry on a daily basis.

Tell us about your art, and where that comes from. What themes do you find yourself returning to?

Contemporary art came at a later stage in my life. I made my first sculpture in 2003 and my first solo show took place in the same year. My writings form the source of my artistic practice. I started to translate/transform my writings into sculptures, paintings, drawings and installations. The focus of my practice is urban culture and my love for the street.

Is your art a comment on the way we live together, and how we live in this world?

I would like to refer to a text I wrote about my artistic practice: “Generally my work has it’s origins in my conviction that a truly living culture can only arise from social structures and that the only theory a contemporary artist can feed on is necessarily a social one. I do not recycle existing forms, I try to make new ones based on my own background. Which is what distinguishes an artist from a marketeer. I try to inject the spontaneous energy from the street into my artistic practice, and I create my own contribution to the revolution of everyday life in the shape of texts and objects.” Therefore, a recurrent element in my work is my protesting against cynicism and a preference for the sensuality and romantic value of the materials of the street, the ones the vagabond knows better than the bourgeois. But rather than a political activist, I like to call myself a poetical terrorist.

Language is very important to your work. You truncate and create words to serve a higher message . . . where did that come from?

My fascination and passion for language has been in my life since I was a young boy. Playing the silver strings of the street. Sending music to the feet and heat gliding in between.

What place does the physical material you use in your work have on your art as a whole?

The choice of materials in my art is really important. I decided to use the materials of the street, such as barbed wire, concrete and all kind of metals. I’d like to think about myself as an Urban Thoreau. Thoreau lived the biggest part of his life in nature. I live in the city, the concrete jungle.

Is your photography from the same place as your art?

I took a break from contemporary art and decided to start travelling. I bought an old 35 mm camera and before I knew it I had six old cameras and I started shooting on a daily basis. Surf came into my life and it was

one of the most life changing experiences I ever had. Being out in the ocean is where I felt truly happy, so I decided to build a life around it. I moved to California for a few months and started to get more and more involved in photography and film projects in skate and surf culture and the whole lifestyle that comes with it. I created Gutterdust – a creative agency that does art direction, film and photography. I live in Bali now and will be travelling between Australia and Bali over the next months doing projects.

I head back to Europe July/August to do a solo show. The show will be some kind of come back. The title of the show will be Tropicalization . . . a place where urban will meet the tropics. I’m going through a big shift into my artistic practice as my environment changed. Exciting times ahead.

There’s a visceral texture to your images, a third dimension that you include in each scene. Can digital imagery achieve this, or is it all about the analog for you?

Analog photography is where the magic is to me. I always try to catch a vibe, a feeling. I try to create an image that dreams. The uncertainty and the imperfections of analogue photography is what fascinates me. Life is not perfect you know.

Tell us about your novel and how that fits into your portfolio.

I wrote a novel in 2006. It’s a combination of concrete poetry and haiku, Zen poetry. It’s about a figure that walks through the urban landscape and expresses his feeling though words, poetry.

You’re working on a feature film we hear . . . can you tell us about that?

I’ve been working on my first feature for a while now. It’s based on the novel I wrote. It’s going to be a film noir documentary on urban culture.

We are shooting it in Paris, London and New York. A big part of the film will be shot on Super 8 and 16 mm film.

Do you often collaborate with other people when you work? How important is that to you?

I love working together on projects with other creative minds. My feature film will be the perfect example of that. A part of the film will be animation, a collaboration with graphic designers, illustrators and artists with a completely different backgrounds from mine.

How much of the art world is about the personal image that artists project as opposed to the images presented in the art – i.e. is the artist at the centre of your work?

I like to quote Picasso on that: “The artist is more important than his work”. www.andywauman.com

below the surface.

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culture vultre

AYUNDARI GUNANSYACH TALKS WITH MADE WIANTA ABOUT ART, FAMILY, FREEDOM, AND THE BENEFIT OF GARLIC. PHOTO: STEPHANE SENSEY.

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MEETING Made Wianta – one of Indonesia’s most respected artists – at his Seputih Gallery, which is a studio, gallery, and his house, I didn’t know that the conversation would go on for hours.

Dressed casually and serving me tea and cake Made talks of his life as freedom: “You shouldn’t make a big deal of life, it's very laid back. I have no reason behind my works, I don’t know how to explain that when I’m being asked, my only answer to that is no other than because I love doing it.”

His works make people wonder. He works with unusual media – blood, razors, nails, to name but a few of the unusual materials he has used in his work. Made doesn’t like to categorise himself in an artistic sense.

“Art is a freedom, so why limit yourself?” he asks.

To whit, Made’s expression includes painting, installation, dance and choreography performances, photography and sculpture.

Born in Apuan village, Tabanan, Bali, the youngest of a family with 10 children, his father was a priest. In 1974, he graduated from Akademi Seni Rupa Indonesia in Yogyakarta, where he met his wife, Intan – granddaughter of Ki Hajar Dewantara, Indonesia’s education hero.

One of his projects that piqued my interest was his solo exhibition titled Dream Land that went on show in 2003 after the Bali bombings in 2002. The terrorist attack – in which much blood was spilled, Bali declared unclean by the Balinese Hindu hierarchy and far too many innocent people died – inspired the contemplation that was a combination of art installation and a performance piece played by Made Wianta himself.

He took an array of pictures from the bombing site and printed them on canvas splattered with freshly slaughtered cow’s blood. Horrible, horrifying, and controversial, Dream Land laid bare the nature of senseless violence for all to see.

When talking about Dream Land, one can see the pain of those times return to Made’s face.

Our conversation kept going until after sunset and Made kept spoiling me with food, serving chicken satay for dinner – garnished with raw garlic.

He says this habit has been keeping the flu at bay throughout his life.

“This luckily works for me and my wife, there is no guarantee that the same treatment will work for you or other people,” he says.

“I don’t want to restrict my kids, I let them fly free like a bird to (achieve) their dreams, because the most important thing for me is their happiness,” he smiles.

He is expecting his first grandchild soon – his youngest daughter, Sanjiwani, is a mother-to-be, and Made can’t hide his excitement.

Talking about freedom is his second-favorite topic. It fits well with his newest exhibition titled Freedom, held in Gaya Gallery, Ubud since December 2014. He didn’t stop with creating the art himself – as he often does, he brought in other artists to collaborate and interact in an art space.

In Freedom a bird is the emblematic centrality. And plays the main role in the painting, installation, and art performances.

Talking with Made Wianta makes me see him as more than an exquisitely talented artist with crazy ideas designed to make people think. He is also is a husband who adores his wife, a father who gives his daughters the freedom to achieve happiness, and a man who contemplates no boundaries.

talk to the hand.

53

interwho

mermaidism tony stanton quizzes the girl from the Urals that makes art of mermaids. portrait by dasha.

Ev Jenya Kadnikova ... it's a long name, how should we call you?

You can call me Jenya. But at the age of five I hated my name, so I called myself Angelica.

Is that what your mother called you?

My Mum called me Zhenya - the real way to spell it, but my dad called me Zhenechka.

Where are you from and how long have you been in Bali?

I am from the Urals, and I have been in Bali for five years.

Why did you come here and how did that come to pass?

Holiday and surfing . . . then I came back to do surf photography. I wasn’t drinking and smoking then.

So what is it with you and mermaids?

I just believe they exist, at least in my imagination! I don’t dive by the way, never.

Tell us about your art.

Ocean, fish, mermaids, shells, water life, lots of blue and green. I paint my art with ocean water, because usually I am sitting on the beach and the sink is too far! Acrylic mainly or oil on canvas, now mainly 1m x 1m canvases so I can reflect the details.

It looks like you trained yourself in some Japanese mangga drawing styles, did you take lessons?

My painting education consisted of a four-month basic class around 10 years ago. But yes, I have loved Japanese mangga and animation since middle school and I love drawing some characters. My favourite animation studio is Ghibli - they are the best and amazing - very inspiring.

What's it like to be Russian in Bali?

Being a Russian girl in Bali is quite a cliché, I am supposed to drink lots of vodka, be a hot girl in a short dress and high heels, even on the beach. I hate assumptions, people are expectational - not all Russians are the same.

How do you think Russians are perceived by the

54

rest of the world?

They are afraid of us . . . too many movies where "Da" Russians are the bad guys.

Do you think Russians and Japanese are similar in any ways?

That’s a tough one. I have always wanted to go to Japan and see the culture. They are incredibly interesting and crazy in many ways. Russians are also crazy in many ways. In that they are similar.

Take us through a normal day for you in Bali...

I might have two kinds of day. If I am shooting then it’s an all-day shoot. My other kind of day, with no hangover, I am spoilt, my amazing boyfriend will cook me breakfast in bed, then I will paint, then a bunch of us will head to the beach to eat, talk and watch the sunset. Then it’s back to my laptop and work, which can take a while, I like to work at night.

Ok here's one. You're alone in a car late at night a long way from civilisation and there's a large wounded animal blocking the road. What do you do?

First of all I am not driving the car, so I am not alone. End of question.

What's the most important in life to you right now?

Since the death of my cat I really understand that I need to appreciate the time I can love; my family and friends - just be now, be here.

What's your first memory?

The first one I have is not pleasant - I was having surgery on my ear. I don’t want to go into details. My second one, which was fun as a two or three year old, I was throwing my toys of the eigth storey balcony, checking out the power of gravity.

How would you describe yourself in three words?

Ev Jenya Kadnikova.

Instagram @jenya_kadnikova

floating in time.

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interwho Model, actress and designer Kelly Tandiono TALKS TO TONY STANTON ABOUT LIFE thus FAR. photo by stephane sensey.

STYLIST KARIN WIJAYA. DRESS BY DENNY WIRAWAN. MAKE-UP BY IFAN RIVALDI.

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Kelly, Is it a rude question to ask: how tall are you?

I’m 176cm.

Did you feel like a model when you were growing up?

No, in fact I was such a tomboy that I thought I was going to be an athlete.

How did you grow up?

I grew up living around the world. Studying and working as a model was the best experience.

When did the modeling scouts start to notice you?

When I was 14 years old while walking around the mall in Jakarta. And then again in Singapore while strolling down Orchard Road.

Have you started designing your own line yet?

Actually yes, my friend Simona and I are doing some samples now. I hope everything will go well and we can get it up and running soon.

How about other Indonesian designers... who do you rate at the moment?

Well my favorite would be Biyan.

How would you describe your personal style?

Effortless, street, androgynous and comfortable.

When did this career really start to happen for you?

It started in earnest when I was at university in Singapore. I was doing it as a part time job. And when I graduated I started travelling around the world and lived in many cities. I never thought I would fall in love with fashion, moreover a model.

How's the acting going?

I recently won Best Actress from my last movie Negeri Tanpa Telinga. I have to thank director Lola Amaria for trusting me to play this role.

And hopefully I will get to explore other roles.

Especially action movies, comedy, drama and romance.

I'm thinking you've probably seen quite a lot of the world . . .

I’ve travelled a lot since I was 14. I left Jakarta during the riots in ‘98 and went to Singapore.

Studied there for a year then I left to Australia for boarding school. Finished my university in Singapore then I started travelling to Hong Kong, Taiwan, London, Berlin, Milan, Madrid. I was based in London mostly and lived there for two years. I've always loved traveling and have done since I was a child.

What's next for Kelly?

Right now I’m focusing on my acting. It’s still something new to me. I’m also doing some travel shows with Trans TV and I’ve come to love that since I’m a natural traveller. I get to learn about my country and go to these amazing places I would have never known about or thought about exploring.

So where is home now?

Home for me now is Jakarta. People always ask me why I came back, but I’ve always known that eventually I would return. I believe in getting experience and knowledge from other places but you should never forget where your home is. And of course the fashion industry in Indonesia has completely changed but I still want to be a part of it.

Fashion will always be in my blood. I still love being a model and I would do it forever if it were possible, but there comes a time when one needs to look for new challenges, and that’s where the acting comes in.

Instagram @kelly_tandiono

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culture vultre

MIA MARIA TALKS ABOUT THE ART OF HER FRIEND AND RELATIVE, DAVY LINGGAR, who recently photographed indonesia's leading artists using a mannequin called jacky as a counterfoil to their creative spaces. the product was an exhibition called film . . .

JAKARTAN artist and photographer Davy Linggar has been drawing and painting practically since he was a toddler. By the age of six, his trophies for drawing competitions filled his room and conversations at our family events.

Around 1998, as the only two art school geeks in the family, we started to spend more time together. Davy left to pursue a photography scholarship in Germany, and came back to Indonesia as a professional photographer.

His father, my mother, and our aunt are hard-core classic painters who believe there are many roads to Rome, but realism is the holy way.

Known as the quiet one, Davy collects the subjects of his curiosity through his eyes – his observations on his surroundings. Picking up vibes and representations through gestures, facial expressions and objects.

Pretentious engagement is something he would rather avoid.

Davy’s interest in others’ creative processes and spaces brought him to this project. He believes strongly in the connection between space and soul – in his wordless way, this is an attempt to connect with the “true self” of others.

His aim is to document, to keep an honest record of souls inhabiting different spaces.

At the same time, Davy wants to feed his curiosity about the soulful artists whom he knows, and the spaces their energies inhabit . . . to observe and maybe conclude the connection between the domain, the soul, and the artworks.

The FILM exhibition is about power and space . . . the power of all 17 artists photographed.

What do the objects we collect say about us?

Are we subconsciously constructing our identities and making statements with our collections?

For FILM, Davy used four different large format cameras, among them his favorite Chamonix, which was made-to-order in China. It is made of wood, relatively affordable and light to carry around. Davy was also using different films for the different types of results that he wants. For a specific sharp result he uses negative films, which he then develops himself. He also uses black and white polaroid films as well as coloured polaroid films which he treats differently according to the kind of result that he wants, making use of both the negative and positive. www.davylinggar.com 58

dummy days.

59

people

AGNES, PHOTOGRAPHED

BY BLAMO.

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GLOBETROTTER, DESIGNER AND MODEL, MULTITASKER MARIA AGNES IS THE REAL DEAL.

Name, rank and serial number please . . .

I'm Maria Agnes. My rank . . . well, that's Private. I don't have a number, but if I had to choose a serial . . . Modern Family.

Tell us about your younger days.

I was a bit of a tomboy. I spent a lot of time with my brother – biking around our neighbourhood in Jakarta, climbing trees, getting into trouble and laughing a lot. I loved ballet too – that was my girly thing . . . hair in pigtails, rocking my tutu, and trying to master the five positions.

Who was the biggest influence in your life as a child?

My mother. I love her liveliness and her fondness for travel - she took me all over Europe, Australia, Asia and the States. I get my wanderlust from her. Also her sense of humour and her perseverance. She taught me to be independent and to stand on my own two feet from a very young age. So yeah, she kind of made me who I am today.

What was your nickname at school?

People call me Anyes (like how you pronounce Agnes in French).

So when you were older you went off to Melbourne to study fashion . . .

I flew to Melbourne when I was 17 with plans to study architecture/interior design. I did a foundation for six months before realising it was fashion that really made me tick. I was already into collaging – I did it as a hobby growing up. I learned the ropes at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology – both the industry and design side of things. After that, I continued my studies at the Ecole Superieure Des Arts et Techniques de la Mode (ESMOD).

And then you started your label Blckhrt?

I started Blckhrt in 2009. We did our first shows in Berlin and New York. That first season, we got into Topshop in Oxford Circus and ASOS, so that was very exciting for me. And it's just gotten more and more interesting ever since. It's a challenging industry, but it's given me the best times of my life. Creating in Bali, connecting in cities like London, New York and Paris and getting inspiration from all the places I travel to.

Did we see you in the movies at some point?

It's possible. I did a movie in 2003 right before continuing my fashion studies at ESMOD. And I did another one in 2007 right after I finished school.

And of course you're a well-known model . . . is that life all it's cracked up to be?

I was young, earning good money and travelling to places I'd never been.

Yeah, it was fun . . . it was a gift. I was meeting all these young people, 16 to

22, they were vibrant, eager to see what life could bring, what there was in the world to see. Modelling gave us that opportunity and to do it in style.

Some of those guys are still my best friends today. But for me, modelling had its shelf life and I knew when to step out.

So where are you headed now with the label?

There's a lot going on with the label and I'm also developing a new project that I'm super excited about. But 2015 is going to be a big year for sure.

Blckhrt is evolving from this upstart maverick label into something more classic – it's changing with me as I grow as a designer and as a person. I want to create a look that is subtle, timeless. That's the direction. The other project is still at the concept stage and will probably take another six months before it materialises . . . it's travel related, which is probably why I'm so excited about it.

Right, I'm a young fashion designer. Give me the three most important things to understand about the business . . .

1. Build a strong base. That means both design and business – and stay focused.

2. You have to really trust your gut instinct – make what you love, not what you think everyone else is going to love.

3. Get a good business partner and get everything down on paper.

Who inspires you from the world of fashion?

Too many to mention, but Coco Chanel is definitely on top of the list. The woman is a legend.

Whose photography floats your boat at the moment?

All time favourites are Juergen Teller, Hedi Slimane, Nick Knight.

How would you describe yourself in three words?

Silent, still, silly.

When things get tough, what do you reach for?

A place of silence where I can be alone and reconnect with my own self and my truth. The most important relationship that you have is with yourself after all. There's no such thing as too tough . . . if you just breathe and embrace the moment you're in. It's all in our heads. We can make a prison for ourselves, or set ourselves free. T.S. www.blckhrtlabel.com

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people

CHRISTINA ISKANDAR GETS A FOCUS ON FASHION SHOOTER TOM WAWNIK.

tom, where do you come from?

Poland, but I grew up in Germany as well.

Tell us why you decided to become a photographer. Have you always wanted to shoot fashion?

I was modeling myself and travelled around. Always on shoots I had a lot of crazy and creative ideas that I wanted to realise but the photographers mostly weren’t cooperative and didn’t like my ideas. Eventually I decided to just change my position and go behind the camera instead of in front of it. I bugged a lot of photographers before I started to shoot on my own. So during my modeling time I started to ask photographers questions about photography and lighting. When I felt ready I spent all my money on a good camera and started to shoot on my own.

Who would be your ultimate model to shoot and why?

That’s a hard question. Naomi Campbell – she is just flawless, black, versatile in her looks, with a lot of energy.

You travel the world – what’s your favourite destination?

Every country has its positive and negative aspects. I love Australia, but I realise that even there a lot of things that are going on are very negative. Australia and the Australian people will be always in my heart, because that’s the country which allowed me to change and grow. Living in Australia gave me a lot of personal happiness and self-confidence.

You have shot a lot of fashion covers, do you have a favourite?

My favourite cover is probably my recent one for a small U.S. magazine called Seek.Me. It is the first time I could finally shoot a black model for a cover. In the fashion industry you still have to struggle to get a non-white model on a cover of a magazine. I am sometimes ashamed to be a white guy. I didn’t have a clue how racist our world is 62

before I started to travel a lot and meet people from different backgrounds.

You've spent some time in Bali over the years, why do you love it?

Bali is probably the only place in Asia for me. It was love-at-first-sight when I arrived in 2013. I love the culture here, the people, the food, the weather. Everything is easygoing. It’s amazing to meet so many interesting people from around the globe in such a small space.

Being a former model must make it easier for you to direct your shoots?

Yes indeed. When I started with photography I knew how the models felt in front of the camera, and I knew how to communicate with them to make them relax for a shoot. I also have a good idea beforehand what kind of pose I want to see. It often feels like I'm sculpting a scene. The model might be sometimes think I'm a weirdo but I don’t really care, as long the end result is flawless.

A typical day for Tom Wawnik . . .

There is no typical day for Tom. The only thing which each day has is complete craziness. Everyday there is so much happening in my life. I travel a lot, see new places, meet new people, organising work, and I shoot a lot. It’s like 365 new chapters in a year, each year. And sometimes I even completely forget what I did one day ago.

What camera do you use?

Canon EOS 5D Mark II. Lover or fighter?

Fighter – daytime, lover – nighttime. www.tomwawnik.com

omnibus

Andrew E. Hall ponders the path forward.

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AFTER 15 or so years in the chair on US network Comedy Central’s Daily Show, John Stewart has decided to hang up the gloves.

When he leaves later this year it will be a sad day for those of us who saw his biting wit and clear-eyed vision of US and international affairs as a bulwark against the bullshit of mainstream media and their political sponsors . . . especially the fundamentalist right.

John Stewart, comedian, is so revered in his home country that in a national poll conducted about trust levels he made the top four for public trust in presenting the NEWS in a fair and accurate manner.

And here’s why . . .

In February long-time anchor of NBC Nightly News, Brian Williams, was busted for his overactive imagination and perpetuating a fallacy over a number of years. He has been telling the story of travelling on a helicopter during the Iraq War invasion.

The aircraft was suddenly hit with rocket-propelled grenade fire, forcing an emergency landing and leaving him stranded in the desert.

It all went tits-up when flight engineer Lance Reynold wrote on NBC News’ Facebook page: “Sorry dude, I don't remember you being on my aircraft”.

“I do remember you walking up about an hour after we had landed to ask me what had happened . . .”

John Stewart’s observation: “Finally someone is being held to account for misleading America about the Iraq War . . . never again will Brian Williams mislead this great nation about being shot at in a war that we probably wouldn't have ended up in if the media had applied this level of scrutiny to the actual fucking war.”

Stewart is not afraid of dropping the odd f-bomb.

After New York police were exonerated in court for the choking death of an unarmed African American cigarette-seller earlier this year Stewart’s exasperation was manifest: “If comedy is tragedy plus time, I need more fucking time . . . but I would really settle for less fucking tragedy.”

He brings an acerbic perspective that can crystallise people’s understanding of what is really going on . . . if one is broadminded enough to listen.

And that kind of perspective is what is needed at the time this article is being written.

There’s an elephant in the room – and that pachyderm is Bali – once again, in the crosshairs of the Bali-bashing Australian media.

Unfairly so, as usual.

Two young Australian men who were convicted of drug trafficking offences under Indonesian law around a decade ago are to face the death penalty – they happened to have attempted their smuggling effort from Bali. In all likelihood by the time you read this, the sentence against Andrew Chan and Myuran Sukamaran will have come to pass.

I would like very much to be wrong.

One can only have heartfelt and desperate sympathy for their families and friends.

It is not my intention here to retell the story of the “Bali Nine” . . . they’re not the Bali nine. They are a group of young Australians who made a grave mistake in a sovereign nation whose legal rhetoric has no tolerance for drug smuggling.

But the term has stuck and it is misleading.

In her megaphone diplomacy Australia’s foreign minister, Julie Bishop, threatened the Indonesian government that Australians would boycott Bali.

Why? What has Bali done?

In an op-ed piece in The West Australian newspaper in midFebruary Ross Taylor, who is president of the Perth-based Indonesia Institute, brings up an interesting and somewhat frightening fact: “The boycott threat by our Foreign Minister is in reality not sensible, nor is it going to be carried out.

First, based on a poll conducted two years ago (2013), almost 52 per cent of Australians going to Bali did not know that it is actually part of Indonesia. The remaining 48 per cent of Australians probably are able to distinguish between their friends in Bali and the Indonesian (political structure) in Jakarta almost 1300km away.”

So much for the standards surrounding the teaching of geography in Australian schools.

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There is nothing faintly amusing about the fact that more than 60 people – Indonesians and foreign nationals – convicted of drug trafficking in Indonesia are to face firing squads this year. There is a salutary lesson though: DON’T DO IT. Ross Taylor, vis-à-vis the comments made by Julie Bishop, goes on to say: “Such comments will also invite Indonesia – currently engulfed in a strong feeling of nationalism – to respond by taking an even harder line on executing drug smugglers, and other cases involving the many Australians who often find themselves in trouble while in Indonesia.”

Thank you Ross: a pragmatic, sensitive and sensible voice amongst the nationalist hyperbole from would-be-if-they-couldbe “leaders” in Australia’s political milieu . . . who have no appreciable understanding of the Asian concept of “face”. To the sanctimonious bully pulpit preachers who have, over many years, scorned Indonesia as if she was, and is, a delinquent child: I suggest strongly you listen to people like Ross Taylor before you open the thing that your feet end up in all too often.

Everyone has their own perceptions and experiences regarding places, situations, institutions and people, and it is banal in the extreme to characterise and homogenise a place – be it Bali or anywhere else – as a living, breathing organism that can be blamed for real or imagined ills. The Middle East as a geographical entity, for instance, is not responsible for the scumbags who constitute the movement known as IS, ISIL, ISIS or DAISH (take your pick).

Founder of the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival, Janet de Neefe, said much the same in a radio interview with ABC Australia in February, asking Australians not to desert “us” – the all of us who happen to live on what some call “the island of the gods” . . . but what most of us simply refer to as “home”.

“Why attempt to punish us for something that has nothing to do with us?” she said.

Our home exists within the wider context of the Indonesian Republic – for those who might not yet get that. But our home also exists in, and of, itself . . . however imperfectly, within its own geo-social identity. That identity is more about nurturing than anything else – despite the clear and present danger presented by “selfie sticks” here these days and those who wield them.

Third-party voyeurism aside, Bali is arguably one of the safest and best places to bring up a child. And an easy and intensely

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interesting place to bring a young person on a family holiday. Bali is not a place where “stranger danger” lurks behind every banyan tree. Balinese Hinduism – practiced rigorously by around 85 per cent of the indigenous population – is based upon ancestral reincarnation expressed in the corporeal form of the living, especially children.

And as John Stewart might say: you don’t fuck with the ancestors.

I have watched many, many children – expat and local – grow up over nearly 20 years and in each and every one of them I see sensitive, rounded, interested, well-mannered human beings.

Largely because the Balinese social fabric allows them to run wild in a safe environment.

One note of caution for you, however: I wouldn’t let your young kids too far off the leash in a place like Kuta . . . too many drunk Australians.

The enthusiastic smiles and greetings I receive from children walking to and from school on a daily basis here are heartwarming. Many schools on Bali and throughout Indonesia are subsidised by Australia’s shrinking foreign aid budget but, as I write, veiled threats are being made by the unfathomable (Australian prime minister) Tony Abbott that such aid might be in jeopardy should the executions of Andrew and Myuran proceed.

I’m pretty positive they would not want that.

Schools are places where dreams are hatched. Children are our future. And under the duress of an enormous population, limited resources and considerable dysfunctional decision-making on a policy-making level, Indonesia’s teachers do an amazing job in very trying conditions.

It would be an unconscionable hypocrisy for Australia to use Indonesia’s children as a human shield, especially in light of the fact that Australian governments imprison asylum-seeker children, in dire circumstances, who are merely attempting to get away from unspeakable violence and degradation in their home places.

I recently wrote in an email to a friend that I have a “conflicted relationship” with Bali. In the same missive I wrote that Bali had become “congested, conceited, and greedy”. In writing this piece I realise that my generalisation, in the context of Bali as an entity, was wrong.

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Although the congestion bit is probably spot-on.

Conceited, self-righteous, and greedy people come to Bali from the four corners of the globe (a phrase I find a bit weird) for the simple reason that the Balinese are, on the whole, generous and welcoming . . . and, to a degree, naïve. But once a virus is introduced into a population it has a tendency to spread.

There is probably nothing more conceited and greedy than pedaling drugs.

I have a conflicted relationship with my own house – the roof leaks and my landlord stubbornly refuses to fix it. But my garden is an absolute pleasure to behold. My Bali is about the joy I feel when the birds and other critters come to visit. Not so different from living anywhere else really.

My Bali is about the friendships I share.

My Bali is about a lack of rules – and the lack of signage that exists in other countries, especially Australia, in plague proportions, that outline the rules. Obviously the rule of law exists but within our communities we must, and do, maturely define our own boundaries without some finger-wagging bureaucracy peering down from above.

My Bali is riding my bicycle through rice fields and villages (with great concentration lest I get cleaned up by random dogs) and finding places of great beauty and richness of spirit.

I don’t think I have laughed as much in the other places I have lived. This might be because I’m deranged and hysterical but I suspect it might have something to do with the general lightheartedness of the community I live in.

These are the people you are threatening, Tony/Julie.

The Balinese people face many challenges – not least of which is a creeping, and creepy, consumerism. But in this they are no different from people in other states and nations. It is depressing and frightening to behold kids riding motor scooters while texting.

Just as depressing and frightening as those times when your dining companions fuck off to Facebook.

and appropriate curriculums. But Bali’s population is a very small fraction of the overall population of Indonesia and, as such, is not a priority for the government in Jakarta. That government, however, is more than happy to receive Bali’s bucks derived from the tourism industry.

While visiting the island in the 1930s Charlie Chaplin quipped, “Bali is finished”. Well, not quite Charlie. And to be honest, if some militant (and frankly, hypocritical) Australians choose to take their tourism elsewhere it might provide a modicum of breathing space in an unrelenting development cycle.

For an Australian government to “shirt-front” the government of a sovereign nation and threaten to play a part in denying that nation’s children the ability to make profoundly sensible decisions (which might include repealing capital punishment) in the future would be a tragedy.

For relations to degrade further between the southern hemisphere’s two most powerful nations would be a tragedy. Ross Taylor unequivocally points out, “they need each other”.

I suspect I know where Andrew Chan and Myuran Sukamaran will be when you read this. But my hope is that they will be able to read it too. They made a tragic choice in a country that is not unfamiliar with tragedy – often on a vast scale.

And I, like John Stewart, would really settle for less fucking tragedy.

Environmental pollution is a massive issue as the island groans under the weight of unregulated development and visitor numbers. Such things are public policy matters that need to be addressed by cool heads with a clear view of the future . . . such deliberations, in turn, rely upon an adequate education system

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Styling by The Ă–, on location at Luna2 Studiotel Bali.

Sunglasses by Shadowlands. Dress worn as top by Shakuhachi. Flares by Ozlem Esen. Shoes stylist's own.

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Dress by Shakuhachi. Shoes by the Prisoners of St. Petersburg.

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hat and bottoms by Ozlem Esen. Bra by Maidenlove available at sailors falls.

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white dress, bustier and shoes by shakuhachi.

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pink dress girls sigh by shakuhachi.

vintage swimsuit and shoes stylist's own. sunglasses by mui mui.

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pink dress girls sigh by shakuhachi.

dress by story by tang. sunglasses and shoes by the prisoners of st petersburg.

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travel

who fancies a weekend away in florida's first city? oh go on then. words: Tony stanton. images: stephane sensey.

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this page and overleaf: From South Beach to the Art Deco district . . .

Miami rocks.

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travel

OK so we all know that Miami is one of the world’s most popular vacation spots, but if you happen to find yourself there of a weekend, what to do, where to go, who to see? You could take in the trendy nightlife of South Beach, or be bejeweled by the eye candy of the Art Deco district. Then there’s the bustle of Calle Ocho and the highly caffeinated energy of Little Havana. The plush hotels of Miami Beach and the historic hideaways of Coral Gables.

Seemingly endless shopping opportunities in modern, sprawling malls and the quiet, personal attention offered by the family-owned shops of Coconut Grove and many other corners of the region. The lures of deep-sea fishing, golf and tennis. Major league football, basketball, hockey and baseball. Boat shows and auto racing. Art festivals and outdoor food and wine extravaganzas. There’s a lot going on. So we figured we’d ask a few of our friends over there to suggest where to go and what to do if you find yourself Miami bound – this weekend.

A Weekend in Miami: Your Insider’s Guide Itinerary Wake up in a private bungalow at new hotspot The Miami Beach EDITION, Ian Schrager’s chic oceanside hotel with bowling in the basement and restaurants by Jean-Georges Vongerichten.

Start your morning with a Vinyasa yoga class at Green Monkey in the popular Sunset Harbor neighborhood. Afterwards, grab a fresh juice at one of Jugofresh’s many locations. Locals love Jugofresh for their cold pressed juices in every flavor under the sun, acai bowls boosted with superfoods, and a great selection of raw snacks. If you need a caffeine fix, stop by Panther Coffee for a small-batch roast and chat with the hipsters who come by for their vegan treats.

Soak up some sun along Lincoln Road and the boardwalk, stopping at Miami Beach classic La Sandwicherie, a French sandwich counter with a delicious, simple menu. Join a perpetual, Vegasworthy pool party at Hyde Beach at the SLS Hotel, the wildest scene in town on a weekend afternoon.

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Head to the Design District for an afternoon of shopping to rival Rodeo Drive, with usual suspects like Dior, Céline, Prada and the recently opened Hublot store alongside upscale home design showrooms from Janus et Cie to Holly Hunt and of course, Versace Home Miami.

Grab a bite nearby at Michael’s Genuine, an always packed eatery with a focus on seasonal, local ingredients. Browse the art galleries of Wynwood afterwards, taking in some Koons and Haring at the Margulies Collection at the Warehouse.

Get dressed up and head downtown to Zuma for a modern, upscale take on Japanese. For a romantic Italian dinner, Casa Tua can’t be beat.

The elegant Mediterranean villa has a private member’s club upstairs, but make a reservation in the candlelit dining room downstairs. Head to Soho Beach House after dinner for a few drinks in the hip art deco member’s club frequented by a trendy crowd of locals and New Yorkers down for the weekend. Jump next door to LIV nightclub in the Fontainebleau, the place to drink and dance on Saturday nights to sets spun by internationally renowned DJs like Calvin Harris and Cedric Gervais.

Laze your Sunday away at The Standard Spa for a little detox, hanging out in the amazing hammam and enjoying rejuvenating treatments (our pick: Soul Temple. Trust us.) If you have the energy, try paddle boarding in Sunset Harbor.

No trip to Miami is complete without a meal at old favorite Joe’s Stonecrab, a classic spot for Sunday dinner and snow crabs, so beloved they’re shipped round the world. Better yet, since you don’t have to wear a bikini on the plane tomorrow, dig in to sinful fried chicken, buttery biscuits, and sweet tea at Yardbird Southern Table and Bar.

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constant wining

strawberry fields forever at fairmont sanur beach bali.

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The mixologist Gods of Bali have conferred blessing after blessing upon their devotees. Ondy Sweeting dips into sacred offerings. image: lucky 8.

THE chillax connoisseur cats that roam the bars and resorts looking for the ultimate aperitif have some mighty fine mixtures to sip The provenance of the word cocktail has long been the subject of debate.

London’s first daily newspaper – the Daily Courant – mentioned a “cock-tail” that was described as both “L’huile de Venus” and “Parfait Amour” in 1798. It must have been a freakingly outlandish party that the soon-to-be prime minister William Pitt the Younger was penning about.

A few years later in the New York-based weekly and boldly named Balance and Columbian Repository noted a drink that was “a stimulating liquor comprised of spirits of any kind – sugar, water and bitters”. And so it was, the contemporary cocktail was born.

Now, The Yak profiles some of the coolest cocktails that are available right now on the island in this ever evolving and moveable feast of fruits, herbs, ice and hardcore hooch of the very finest quality.

The Oberoi This perennially elegant Seminyak resort opened its beautifully carved Balinese doors 37 years ago. So it has a long and rich history from which to extrapolate its extensive cocktail offerings.

If it is traditional cocktails that you seek, do not go past the Kayu Bar in the Oberoi’s extravagantly landscaped gardens that overlook the white sandy beach.

A Tom Collins? No problem. From Manhattan’s to a Mai Tai and beyond, the barmen understand heritage cocktails and every one is rendered with sublime precision and traditional integrity that produce an ideal example of the type. Then there are the transcendent libations that Oberoi mixologists develop, refine and deliver to grateful guests. Tamarind Martini, anybody? Don’t mind if I do. Observe the preparations for the Lemongrass and Passionfruit Martini. Vanilla pods and a canister of C02 zing to spawn thick and luscious foam, fragrant with vanilla and delivering a passionfruit tongue tingle that will not be quickly forgotten. This is one hell of a martini and fluently strained of organic refuse. For fruit lovers check

the Strawberry Basil Roska, which is the noble muddle of its namesake with the addition of strawberry puree and freshly slapped basil. This cocktail has subtle overtones of basil, so true addicts may want to ask for more. So certain of its position in Bali, the Kayu features indigenous Arak on its cocktail list – a drink all too often shunned. Every Monday the cocktail bar has unplugged jazz and the bar snacks include an astonishingly reconstructed goats cheese canapé that has been Heston Blumenthalled into a delicacy that looks like a quail egg and bursts with a liquid fromage when put to the fang. Maybe two visits here could be wise. www.oberoihotels.com Yak Map. N.9 The Fairmont The Fairmont resort in Sanur has to be one of the easiest places to find in the beautiful town that is a labyrinth of local warungs and stylish shops. The Nyala is the resort’s bar and restaurant that overlooks a long lap pool and out over the ocean. It is easy in the extreme to lull away the hours watching waves crash on the natural inner reef that forms a type of lagoon at high tide and a wonder of rock pools when the tide is out.

The cocktails? Well, the staff is highly trained about the nuances of ingredients and taste so expect to be dazzled.

The charming Widodo suggested a Green Smash, which is a tantalising muddled number made with vodka, fresh green kiwi fruit and Midori. This is a refreshingly sweet and sour drink that goes down easily and beats the heat. It comes served in a chilled glass packed with vitamin C-replenishing fruit that will serve your body well. For those who don’t seek out a poolside sugar hit, select the Cucumber Passion, which is a curious and moorish mix of gin, peach liquor, cucumber, passion fruit, lime juice, a dash of sugar syrup and a tiny top of Sprite.

The cool overtones of cucumber makes it taste like a salad in a glass but the whole passionfruit seeds that zip up the straw produce little flavour bombs that bring this concoction to life. To enjoy a bit of cocktail making participation, The Fairmont has a Berry and Ginger Mojito, which is served in a half carafe jug and comes with a cocktail shaker and strainer for a little bit of DIY assemblage and a moment as a master of mixology. www.fairmont.com/sanur-bali

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Sundara Four Seasons, Jimbaran As apart of the stunning coastal strip of Jimbaran Bay, the Sundara restaurant is legendary on the island and this reputation is maintained by its signature cocktail: the Jim-let Fox Trot. By all appearances this drink is a classic, if upscale, gin and tonic with the addition of lime cordial. The natty iPad menus showcase the wonderful list but reveal no secrets, making the listed cocktail ripe for discovery. The Jim-Let Fox Trot is gin, cordial and four secret ingredients that the mixologist refused to reveal. These are subjected to an industrial fusion in the back-kitchen’s slushie machine, then iced to perfection. The glass is topped with tonic and presented while the condensation actually freezes onto the glass at the table. It looks like an awfully elegant science experiment and it is surely worth the trip through flooding streets. My choice is for a sublime sundowner watching the Balinese fishing boats come into land in the bay.

Sundara also has the Thousand Nights – a rich yellow extravaganza that conjures exotic India. This opulent cocktail is muddled dark rum with star anise, and green cardamom with a sprinkle of saffron on top. Barcelona-based avant-garde cocktail creator, Javier de las Muelas, is Sundara’s consultant and trainer. And what a job this genius has done. His aim was to develop all-time favourites with unique refinements and secret additions so they remain unique to Sundara. The Bloom of Sundara hits this target as a shaken cocktail of Ketel One vodka, pink grapefruit, a sliver of orange, two drops of grenadine plus some guarded elements that will not be discussed. D-licious. www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay Karma Kandara When it comes to the wow factor, Karma Kandara has it by the Hummer load. Perched high on the cliff of the Bukit peninsula and the azure waters of the Indian Ocean, flanked by lush emerald jungles. Cocktail hunting can take place at several venues within the grounds of this darling of the forever-chic jet set dope.

Head to Nammos beach club or the cliffside Temple Lounge and Bar, which is one of the highest points of the resort and has priceless views.

The Smokin' Spiced Rum punch will get an inner party started and put hairs on the chest of the brave. This potent mix of dark rum and apricot brandy is tempered with passionfruit puree, sugar and pineapple juice and topped with dry ice to keep it smoking’ cool. For dessert in a glass, opt for the Karma Espresso Martini which is full flavoured Arabica coffee with vodka and house made creamy caramel foam that calls for a spoon to dig in with. Locate barman Kariano to whip up a popular Paloma and brace your tastebuds for a lush blend of golden tequila, pink grapefruit, lime, sugar and topped with soda water. It is summer in a glass. Another winner in the superb taste stakes is the Smokin’ Spiced Margarita that combines spiced peppercorn tequila with spice syrup and lime juice, and is served in a glass that is crusted with crushed chilli, peppercorns and salt. A gorgeous addition to the Karma’s sour drink repertoire. www.karmakandara.com Nikki Beach . . . is the newest beach club on the block and the only non-hotel owned beach club in delightful Nusa Dua. It’s also the 12th beach club in a chain that takes in St Barts, Cabo San Lucas, Marrakesh, Miami, Marbella and St Tropez. This luxury entertainment and lifestyle brand knows a thing or two about purveying cocktails to strange fruit like Paris Hilton, hipsters and superstar actors.

So it’s not surprising that their Signature Cocktail is a mojito. Simple, plain and totally guest led. This drink is so beloved that Nikki Beach in Marbella staged a Cuban

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Mojito Party. The recipe is transparent with lemon flavoured rum, fresh mint and sugar.

Served in a tall chilled glass. This is a winner for a sun drenched play day on the sand.

The mixologists of Nikki Beach meet every six months to exchange notes, train and create. Each location has its speciality cocktail including the Majorca Delight from Spain, which is like a non-creamy Pina Colada with subtle flavours of elderflower and Cointreau while the Phuket Sunset is a funky blend of vodka, cranberry juice and raspberry puree that explodes in your mouth like a gob full of pop rocks. Come summer we expect to see the signature Bali cocktail making its debut on the global cocktail card as the wonderful workers get mixing and muddling creations of mangosteen and other local fruits to launch onto the international Nikki Beach scene. www.nikkibeach.com/bali El Kabron If you fancy a slice of Ibiza in the heat of the tropics, El Kabron is a celestial choice.

Lodged into an extraordinary location at Pecatu-Uluwatu on a cliff high above the ocean, this bar and restaurant is a showstopper and so are the super sassy sangrias. El Kabron is no one-stop wonder with standard red wine sangria. El Kabron is as serious about its liquid blissouts as it is about Spanish food. Neither is taken lightly, but they should be taken often. Very often.

A revolving door of outstanding DJ’s spin their thing at this venue and create a chilled tone for a special sunset scene. Take to the floppy bean bags or sun loungers, order a jug of white sangria and be transported to that sexy Balearic Island and gaze at the infinity pool that does, in fact, appear to join the ocean. The recipe for the sangria – both red and white – is closely guarded. However, they certainly start with a good wine base and a generous splash of a high quality brandy and some cinnamon. The fruit is fresh and delicious making a jug a necessity rather than an option. El Kabron is a great place to let the kids take a swim while parents engage in some Sex on the Cliff – another top secret-recipe signature cocktail. Enjoy a cool highball or even a mojito.

There is nothing not to like about the uber-chic destination. www.elkabron.com Potato Head The enduring style of Potato Head Beach Club in Seminyak keeps patrons coming back for more. Year after year the crack cocktail aficionados hit the bar and beach club to sample from the cleverly crafted cocktail list. Stop by for a PH20 – citrus vodka matched with Campari, orange juice, raspberries and citrus sherbet for a rejuvenating slap to the chops. The Mango Jerry is a vanilla, tequila mix with spice, sugar, honey, lime juice, mango and orange liqueur that will sate even the shiniest white sweet tooth.

The names alone are worth a read as the regulars and guests go cray cray for the Big Bang – spiced rum, passionfruit syrup, lime, mango and guava juice plus orange zest candy – or a twisted Potato Head Bloody Mary. Tropical delights await such as the Indus Nesos that perfectly showcases vanilla vodka, apricot liqueur, lychee juice and coconut cream or perhaps go for a Kupu-Kupu Batik that is a south-east Asian treat of strawberry puree, lemongrass gin, strawberry liqueur, lemon juice, vanilla sugar, ginger ale and strawberry foam. www.ptthead.com Yak Map.N.5

Clockwise from top left: Karma Kandara; Nikki Beach; Potato Head; el kabron; Sundara; The Oberoi.

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oral pleasures

Moonlite MOONLITE KITCHEN AND BAR HAS RISEN AS A WORTHY SUCCESSOR TO ANANTARA’S SOS SUPPER CLUB IN SEMINYAK, WRITES KATIE TRUMAN.

SINCE the hip Anantara Seminyak Resort opened on Seminyak beachfront in 2008, I’ve been a frequent visitor to its rooftop SOS Supper Club. SOS was the scene of some damn fine parties, including, alas, its own official closing-down party late last year. Perhaps the result of too many free-flow cocktails, I descended into pestering staff about the reason for SOS’s demise and what was next for this iconic venue.

Fast forward to February this year and all is finally revealed, with a major morph – MoonLite Kitchen and Bar. The first sign of a revamp is the external glass lift at the front of Anantara – outside guests having direct rooftop access without venturing through the resort. The former SOS interiors have completly changed; suspended catwalk, daybeds and pumping DJs replaced with a more sedate, sleek muse with a striking modern Asian concept in both design and cuisine.

Polished teak wood is a major feature, from the smattering of finely crafted tables and chairs across the open-plan dining room and carved wood panels lining the rear walls to teak-backed menu boards.

Although SOS offered a decent dining component, the focus was primarily on a sunset ‘n’ cocktails combo, while soaking up the to-die-for ocean views. The magical panorama, of course, can still be enjoyed, either on the open-air deck sofas, or within the all-new swanky bar/lounge. The extensive open kitchen – centre-stage on a raised teak wood platform – makes the statement, however, that the venue’s rebirth is foremost as a dining destination.

MoonLite’s menu of authentic Malay and Singapore dishes come inspired by the many years executive chef and native Texan, Brandon Huisman, spent in this region – covering street food and home-style recipes including Peranakan specialties (Penang and Malacca) with Indian and Chinese culinary influences. Dishes, as per Asian norm, are meant for sharing. MoonLite’s reasonable pricing allows diners to order several tasty little gems. From the still-evolving menu,

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recommended dishes are Steamed Pork Belly Buns with pickled cucumbers and crunch-fest Chicken Kerabu Salad with ginger flower and onion mint. Indian influences include the classic fish head curry, adapted at MoonLite as Red Snapper Curry.

The crispy seared duck slices topping a bed of Thai-style curried fried rice laced with pineapple, cashew nuts and sultanas is not to be missed, nor the Philippine speciality, Tuna Tartare, with edamame, ginger and shallots drenched in piquant Calamansi limes, stuffed in a scooped-out young coconut. Huisman’s take on Bali’s iconic babi guling is a fine example of complex cooking techniques taken to another level, resulting in a unique Balinese Spiced Crispy Pork Belly Roulade, balanced with fern-tip lawar salad for crisper and less oily meat than the traditional variety.

MoonLite’s drinks have been adapted to compliment spicy Asian food. The new, custom-made signature cocktails showcase local ingredients incorporated throughout the menu, such as turmeric and cardamom . . . try the mighty refreshing MoonLite Calamansi with vodka and freshly-pressed Calamansi limes, served long on ice. Wines, not generally associated with spicy Asian dishes, have been carefully selected from the Wine Spectator-ranked wine cellar for surprisingly good pairings. The light red chilled Beaujolais is a revelation. A nightly live band creates just the right amount of background music to encourage good conversation and relaxed tone to savour this region’s delish offerings. Bali’s sunsets may well be breathtaking but the glorious moonlight following can be equally so.

Daily 4.30pm to midnight; dinner 7pm until 11pm; valet parking.

Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa, Jalan Dhyana Pura, Seminyak, tel: + 62 (0) 361 737773/ www.bali.anantara.com

moonlite serenade.

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oral pleasures

ubudrising BEING a Yakker, a trip to Ubud feels like a mini vacation and an overnight stay is, well, preferred. Heading up to sample new restaurants I discovered that not only has Ubud gained a few that are well worthy of a write-up, I also discovered myself spoilt for choice as no two were remotely similar.

Ubud has long been a haven of culture and good food, but in pockets that once swung from budget cafes and warungs to glamorous five-star hotels, with little in between. Times have changed and so has Ubud and a new breed of restaurants are taking the duck by the beak and inviting Ubud locals and visitors to enjoy sophisticated dining with personality.

Mozaic MOZAIC made it happen. Moving up from Ary’s Warung, an institution in Ubud’s main street, chef Chris Salans, had a vision and the tenacity to see it to fruition, winning some prestigious international awards along the way. While Mozaic remains the benchmark by which many others are measured, it isn’t new, and so why, you may ask, is it here? Mozaic has just launched a series of menus that offer the gourmand a taste that is uniquely sublime and doubtless will entice new diners to sample the fruits of his imagination.

Mozaic is a degustation only restaurant, giving the chefs free rein to tempt diners with great dishes and new surprises. For those who like to be prepared, two additional menus are on offer, a set menu and a vegetarian degustation which will undoubtedly open the fine dining restaurant to a new world of diners.

Tel. 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com Hujan Locale WILL Meyrick is riding a very successful wave with the Sarong Group going from strength to strength. With new openings in Jakarta and Hong Kong and waiting lists for Sarong and MamaSan, the new Ubud eatery is a departure for both Will and the group. Located in an atmospheric gang off the main street in Ubud, Jl Sri Wedari is lined with cafés and small shops. Hujan Locale opened in an existing building and has been stylishly transformed into a beautiful café offering a range of well-priced dishes that blend Will Meyrick’s love of Asian food with his British roots.

Think chili meets pudding. Meyrick says he wanted to open something in Ubud that was much more accessible than his other restaurants, where Ubud locals and visitors could come often. The lunch menu features more Asian dishes, many priced under Rp100,000 and dinner brings some more Western influences in, including some fabulous Spanish-style long pizzas. It’s not what you’d expect and he says some diners have complained, thinking they would find a mini MamaSan here, but

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SARAH DOUGLAS HITS THE CULINARY HIGH ROAD.

others love it. On the night we dined, there were quite a few locals who say they love it and come at least once a week. There’s a neighborhood feel about it, placed off the main road. The two stories offer booths and tables downstairs, all decorated in muted mint greens, black and white and rattan. Upstairs is a bar serving some sophisticated cocktails that are definitely influenced by MamaSan’s popular bar – think spicy, Asian flavours and you’re on the right track. More tables are upstairs overlooking the street below, and a large table down the centre is a great place for groups and parties. A small verandah offers smokers and drinkers a chance to get outside. It’s all very charming, the food is excellent and there is something for everyone and it’s all very affordable.

We shared our table with a friend who is very at home with spice. So while we opted to try one of his pizzas with tomato and local cheese, which ticked all the boxes for me, followed by slow cooked beef cheek on wasabi mash, meltingly tender and rich, a glazed pork chop with a spicy watermelon salad, our friend went spice all the way. A mule is served in a tin cup and spiced up enough to make your lips sing while her choice of Sumatran Duck curry served with a cassava curry was near enough to blow my head off. She proclaimed it perfect and had also ordered it on her last visit.

Desserts are straight out of the nursery: quirky and old fashioned, with things like bread and butter pudding, a chocolate fudge cake with peanut butter ice cream, a lemon tart alongside a durian mousse. It’s all very accessible and Hujan Locale sports a finely tuned team of talented chefs behind the stoves. There’s something for everyone and something everyone can afford.

Tel. 8493092 www.hujanlocale.com Room4Dessert NOT sure about you but I love chocolate and when you have a celebrated pastry chef from New York setting up his own dessert-inspired restaurant in Ubud, this has to be on my list. Finally, I made it. Will Goldfarb opened his first dessert and cocktails restaurant in New York and would have stayed except that he got sick. He made a life change to Bali where he spent his first few years as pastry chef at Ku De Ta before taking on their degustation restaurant upstairs at Mejekawi. Then finally, his chance to open his dream restaurant arrived and he, his wife and daughter made the move up the hill.

Room4Dessert is funky, in all kinds of ways. An old nightclub next door to Naughty Nuri’s has been transformed with limited funds into a bar and diner. An old turntable churns out a steady stream of blues while a decidedly low-tech kitchen with a small staff produces some awe-inspiring desserts. The menu is

natural beauty at room4dessert.

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dessert, but that’s not all. A crack hand with the cocktails, this is also Ubud’s in-theknow place to go for cocktails and many a chef can be found hanging out here after work.

Everything about Room4Dessert seems very organic; it’s very personal. Will shares the nightly staff menu, drop in and enjoy while it lasts. A small garden out back is transformed for parties and celebrations. Some old equipment that was left by the former owners is now being recycled to take on new life creating Spanish tortilla, tapas and grills. Will Goldfarb and his family are so single-minded and passionate about what they do that it’s irresistible, you want more, you want to go back. The day we visited, Slow Food Bali was holding an event with an Italian architect-turned-chocolatier who supplies Will with his artisanal chocolate. It all culminated in a four course chocolate menu that tipped the scales into chocolate heaven, followed by chocolate coma!

Special events include wine and cheese nights, music nights, a weekly Friday market, while the backyard is about to add another dimension to Room4Dessert.

Go there!

Tel. 5532598 www.room4dessert.asia

The long finger of land has been cleverly designed with a garden down the centre ensuring privacy, lots of natural light, and a pool and deck that hangs off the edge of a ravine overlooking a river. There are funky features even here, little smoking chairs away from the main area, another bar at the deck and brass fittings installed in the shared bathrooms that Suraj hand carried from New York. It is those things that set the resort apart and give it a very personal feeling, one could almost live in the suites in a kind of Soho-style loft sense.

This is a lifestyle resort that brings an urban sensibility to a mountain escape.

The senior members of the family have moved into the area while various members of the extended family come and go; some are employed at the resort.

The offspring refer to their dad as the “Gangster of Gianyar” in the sense that anything he sets out to do, gets done, “and he knows everyone”. This is a resort with a lot going on and the kind of place that you imagine urban professionals from Jakarta, Singapore and Hong Kong slipping into for a weekend getaway. While it will definitely appeal to the urban traveller, it’s also great for young families as kids are invited and entertained as well.

Tel. 4792888 www.bisma-eight.com

Bisma8 DRIVING up one of those little Ubud streets that seems to go on forever, off the main road, Bisma8 was not what I was expecting at all! It’s funky, modern and yet seems to fit perfectly into its surroundings. A lot of thought has gone into this boutique resort and it begins with a family who abandoned Singapore and Jakarta for the hills of Ubud and brought a lot of design elements and hospitality ethos together to create a very unique resort. It’s industrial on one hand but also mindful of local elements. It’s modern and organic at the same time. It brings not only elements of Ubud but also the actual neighborhood.

The Copper Kitchen and Bar is located on the top level and copper is the inspiration with some funky designer lighting and copper elements created by local artists incorporated into the cement, glass and red brick structure. The menu has been created by Miles Belfield, formerly of Karma Resorts and The Island Café in Seminyak with a lot of input from the owners. Four generations of the family are here the weekend I visit, for the first event in the soft opening process. Fashion designer and second generation, Suraj Melwany has put his stamp on the food as well as the design, bringing a host of his friends to consult on the project.

“I wanted something that is organic and clean but still wholesome and comforting,” he says of the food. Clean yet tasty. We lunched on a very casual menu of sandwiches while the staff set up for a Valentine’s Day dinner; club sandwiches loaded with freshly cooked chicken, bacon, avocado, egg, served on home-made bread with a side of guacamole and a tangy chutney, and a tuna burger on a brioche roll with baby herb salad. It was exactly as described, comforting and clean.

A friend and a leading pastry chef in Jakarta has been invited over to take on the bakery and pastry, with almost everything made in house. An organic garden is located near by so much of the produce can be sourced from there.

An intimate bar has its own private hideaway space upstairs. Suraj felt that guests at a resort are looking for some tucked away space where they can settle in for drinks without feeling they are in a resort, without worrying about making a noise and without being overwhelmed by large, empty spaces. Himself included!

Another friend and veteran of Singapore’s Tippling Club has consulted on the bar and cocktail menu. A library and coffee shop is on the lobby level, a place to sit and work or read and enjoy the smell of fresh coffee.

The suites are large, each with its own living area and some great design features including cedar Japanese-style tubs featured in some of the en-suite bathrooms.

Locavore IT isn’t really new but Locavore is still the talk of the town, as well as earning number one rating on TripAdvisor more than once. Another very personal project, it seems to be a trend. Two chefs, Eelke and Ray, have put their personal food philosophy to the test and passed with flying colours. Locavore turns local ingredients into artful plates that have wowed diners since they opened. With a deft hand applied to the organic produce they grow or source locally, vegetarian dishes become works of art and the organic meat they source is a real bow to artisan producers who breed sustainably and responsibily. Locavore is a term that applies to eating locally and all except for the occasional knob of butter or olive oil is grown here. It’s amazing what they can do and they continue to turn out plates that look like works of art and taste heavenly.

The pair are opening a new casual deli/café which will be open for breakfast and lunch in early April. Ubudians are abuzz already with the promise of Locavorestyle deli items including their house-made smallgoods, out of the box ice creams (including savoury ones), and organic meat and poultry butchered at Locavore.

Inspiring food from two very talented chefs.

Tel. 977733 www.restaurantlocavore.com Hanging Gardens Ubud This isn’t new either but a recent refurbishment has put the out-of-town resort back in the game. With one of the most photographed pools in the world to play with, Hanging Gardens Ubud has extended the terrace surrounding the pool, added a private bale for personal dining, built a Monet-style bridge over the Ayung River and put some new dining packages together which include a picnic at the beautiful old temple overlooking the property.

The Riverside bale picnic package invites guests to sink into plush cushions as a private waiter serves you a champagne picnic.

A Romantic Temple Dinner is served by your own butler at the atmospheric temple, where the picnic offering happens and includes a blessing from the Balinese mangku (priest).

The third package offers dinner on a bale afloat on the swimming pool surrounded by scented candles, and things really don’t get much more romantic than that, do they?

Tel. 982700 www.hanginggardensubud.com

clockwise from top left: room4dessert; bisma8; mozaic; hujan locale.

SARAH DOUGLAS GETS OUT AND ABOUT IN SEARCH OF FUNKY ASIAN DINERS.

WAIT long enough and absolutely everything gets reinvented. It seems this time it’s Asian food that’s about to get an injection of hip – moving up from the local warung, or the corner Indian, a new breed of young, dynamic restaurateurs are taking the Asian trail and Bali by storm. We’ve been through the Mexican wave, seen Indonesian food getting a chic makeover and now Chinese food looks set to be the next big thing. We’ve put together a list of six of our favourite funky Asian diners, from Chinese, Japanese, Indian and Vietnamese . . . they are stylish, affordable and full of authentic flavour.

menu is complete with numbered dishes and can be enjoyed in the pub next door or delivered to your door. Wonky’s offers all those Chinese comfort dishes like sweet and sour pork, chicken and cashew nuts, beef in black bean sauce and a lot more. From spring rolls to prawn chips, Wonky’s is fun, fast and affordable. Jumping on the revamped Chinese wagon, they’ve created a concept that will never make Gourmet Traveller but hits the sweet spot for those who remember a time when it was all about the fortune cookies.

Tel. 7449132 www.wonkystakeaway.com

Bo & Bun FILLING up daily, street-side in Seminyak, Bo & Bun takes a casual approach and serves up a popular mix of Thai and Vietnamese favourites in a modern play on street food. From the ubiquitous Phan Mi sandwiches, chicken or vegetarian to crunchy Asian salads, roll your own rice paper rolls, hand-made steamed buns stuffed with charred pork belly and pickled vegetables or the 12-hour Pho. Meat eaters and vegetarians alike can break noodles together here in a perfect storm of sweet and spicy and all beautifully plated on lovely white plates. The owners are Indonesian and Australian, the place is understated industrial meets Asia and the vibe is very cool. Best of all the Vietnamese and Thai traditions of serving fresh vegetables treated with respect is inherent in the menu and the service. Dressings are home-made and authentic, the drinks list is full of tempting and refreshing home-made recipes from sparkling lemonade to frozen ginger slushies and their own fruity blend of ice tea.

Finish it up with a damn good coffee and lunch is done. Ours cost about Rp150,000 each, all up. Good value, good food, they got it right.

Tel. 085935493484 www.facebook.com/BoandBun

Hu’u Bistro DRAWING on the food of his childhood, Hu’u’s charismatic owner, Sean Lee, made sure that some of his favourite Peranakan dishes from his homeland in Singapore made it on to the menu at Hu’u. In the process of rebranding Baba’s to Hu’u Bistro and putting a new spin on his menu, some dishes remain . . . his own childhood favourites. Babi Guling is a traditional Indonesian dish but the fresh twist on the classic here brings a new level of freshness, with a deconstructed plating. The classic laksa is deeply spicy and authentic. Mix it up with bistro specials like burgers and salads but don’t forget to add a little Asian flavor to lunch or dinner.

Tel. 4736576 www.huubali.com

Fat Gajah FAT Gajah is by coincidence right across the road from me and takes Shanghai noodles and dumplings as its inspiration. Decked out in white tiles with a full bar, Fat Gajah’s inside/outdoor café is a blend of French brasserie meets street-side café.

The menu though is pure Shanghai-nese. Daily specials add to the menu which offers a variety of options from small dishes of steamed or pan-friend dumplings, noodles dressed with slow cooked meats, flash-cooked vegetables and dressed in broth or sampler plates for sharing. The intimate Asian brasserie is the brainchild of the team at Chandi Restaurant and whether you drop in for a quick lunch or settle in for cocktails and dinner, the charm of this funky Asian diner is quickly apparent.

Dessert is the departure and Chef Agung’s famous melting fondant cake is just one of the irresistible options on this menu. From gourmet Asian-style salads to mains like crispy, slow cooked pork ribs and more, this is a little menu with some real punch.

Tel. 8688212 www.fatgajah.com Wonky’s WONKY’S is the latest in a line of venues from the Scallywags/Echo Beach crew.

Located beside their English pub, The Plumbers Arms on the way to Canggu, the

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Lello Lello IT began life as an ice-cream parlour and continues to serve up some of the best ice cream on the island with innovative flavours and great combinations. At night a corner of the restaurant on the street sets the evening on fire with a popular choice of curries and Indian flat breads including the spectacular freshly made roti chanai.

The menu is simple; beef rending or chicken, lamb or vegetable curry, served in small bowls with a choice of rice and breads. It’s inexpensive, great fun and wildly popular with a queue often forming as the evening wears on. Finish up with an ice cream tasting plate and this is fun, funky and affordable.

Tel. 082146946860 www.facebook.com/LelloLelloGelato Sushimi BONDI meets Bali at this little Tokyo-inspired sushi train that has tongues a-wagging. The industrial-style sushi train is built around a fresh kitchen where the black and white-clad chefs are slicing up the freshest seafood and putting together artful sushi and sashimi. A separate hot kitchen prepares dishes from the à la carte menu including delicious chicken, beef and seafood dishes in a style known as Kaiten in Japan. The brainchild of a young Australian couple, Sushimi on Jl Dhayanna Pura attracts rave reviews, lots of repeat customers and you’ll always find a queue on a Friday night when they offer all sushi plates at Rp20,000 each. Happy endings come in the way of homemade chocolate mousse and brownies that circle the train, cheeky, tempting and a perfect finish.

Tel. 737816 www.facebook.com/sushimiseminyak

sunset bbq

monday, wednesday, friday idr. 190k ++ 7 pm - 10 pm

happy hour

pay 2 get 3* 4 pm - 8 pm beer, cocktail, spirit

oral pleasures

Grilled over gatsby sarah douglas comes over all raffles and oak room at plantation - a meat eater's heaven.

Putting on the Ritz comes to mind when walking through the doors of Plantation Bar and Grill, the most recent restaurant and bar to open at Double Six Hotel. Walking through the doors, or down the elaborate spiral staircase, gets me in a New York state of mind.

Decked out in full Gatsby-style with plump leather booths, art deco shades, moody lighting and a swooping staircase leading up to the Swing Bar, Plantation Bar and Grill is a triumph of design, but that isn’t all . . .

With Australian chef Robert Marchetti behind the concept and the menus, this is his signature restaurant for the resort, hot on the heels of Seminyak Italian Food down below.

Overlooked by the open kitchen, grills afire and black-and-white-clad chefs tending the beasts, a fridge display proudly exhibits the dry-aged beef that is the backbone of the dining experience at Plantation. This is a steakhouse the likes of which we haven’t seen in Bali until now. However, there are also some classic seafood dishes in a US-style, including lobster, prawns and line-caught fish.

Diners are advised to enjoy a cocktail in the bar before dinner. This is where the feeling that you’ve slipped into an old world experience begins.

The two-level room with floor-to-ceiling leadlight windows boasts a round bar, a central table created from an old billiard table and scattered tables with substantial leather chairs. It is moody and plush and a great place to meet friends for an intimate drink.

The dining room overlooks the sea, jutting out at the side of the resort on the fourth floor. It is filled with quirky design elements, including a boudoir where the ladies can touch up their make-up, palm fronds and leadlight lamps give the room a kind of “just been to the Oak Room at The Plaza hotel” feeling, so “shake me another martini, honey”.

While the extravagant décor could easily overpower the dining experience, this doesn’t happen, it more than holds its own.

This is a meat eater's paradise; vegetarians will find a few selections but may feel out of place. The prime ribs displayed beside the kitchen all have dates that testify to the time they have been aged. Imported from Australia where they are dry-aged to perfection, they arrive in Bali where they are butchered to order and left to age a little longer – developing full flavour and tenderness.

This is my second visit, on the first I held back a little, ordering a modest rib-eye that melted in the mouth and was perfectly seasoned.

“Slap it on its ass and slap on the plate,” my old man used to say. I like mine a little beyond rare but not much and this one was perfectly done,

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charred on the outside, pink and juicy within.

On my second visit, I was up to the elbows in the experience. This time it was the full-on T-bone, big enough to share. In fact we shared it three ways, being women, but loaded up on side dishes and this turned out to be a great way to enjoy an amazing steak dinner with all the trimmings.

The T-bone will never be as tender as the fillet but what it sacrifices in tenderness, it more than makes up in flavor. The thing is huge, so don’t be shy, it helps that it’s sliced for you, charred to perfection on the custommade grills and offset with a sliced lemon . . . simple yet effective.

The sides we ordered included one of their signature dishes – an influence from the Seminyak Italian restaurant on the lower level; a truffle scented Mac and Cheese. It’s only small but so rich that a couple of mouthfuls are enough, for me at least.

We also had minted green peas and mashed potatoes, which were creamy, smooth and fabulous with the steak and the accompanying sauces.

A full breadbasket, offering a range of home-made breads from brioche to pretzels and everything in between, is replenished often, so beware.

Home-churned butter is a real treat, but you don’t want to fill up on these.

The menu isn’t overly expensive but neither is it cheap, with a steak dinner starting from around Rp400,000++ by the time you add a side dish or two.

The wine list offers plenty and the prices start at quite modest rates. We drank a beautiful Pinot Noir from the US that cost us Rp600,000.

Desserts were on the menu and for the sake of research we had to try, which was a damn good idea in retrospect. On our table arrived a beautiful pavlova decked with fruit and cream and a brulée laced with bourbon that was over the top but perfectly suited. The air-conditioning is turned down low so you can dress up a little here and eat food that is perfectly suited to colder climates.

Sling Bar sits on the mezzanine level and this is a cocktail bar that has gone to town with its menu including a full list of some perfect martinis and an espresso martini list that could spell sleepless weeks, we tried them of course and the verdict . . . delicious.

Plantation Bar and Grill is an experience, unlike any other currently in Bali. The Double Six Hotel complex is now complete, with the Rooftop offering fantastic sunset views and cocktails and Seminyak Italian packing them in downstairs, Plantation Bar and Grill is something else all together. www.double-six.com.

Classic dining at Plantation.

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venting in a villa

Katie Truman lurches into luxurious living at Villa Windu Asri and B Villas.

Villa Windu Asri OPENED in July 2014, magnificent new kid on the block, Villa Windu Asri brings a distinctively new style and concept to Bali villa living. Promoted as "Raffles Style" luxury, Villa Windu Asri is a palatial six-bedroom residence – part of an exclusive two-villa garden enclave, secluded in the sleepy depths of Petitenget’s Complex Villa Lumbung, gated estate.

This impressive all-white residence sets the scene, entered via an inner courtyard, dominated by a beaten-copper fountain, leading on to a formal reception area. Windu Asri then wows with classic colonial-era design and ambiance, evoking a bygone Far East, with Raffles-style architectural grandeur and decorative detail. Four separate wings framing a rectangular pool conjure colonial splendour with imposing white stone colonnades and balconies and verandas furnished with potted palms and white cane lounge chairs.

Residential interiors are beautifully turned out with recurring turquoise soft furnishings and warm nut-brown woods, polished marble floors and art deco lighting. The Australian owners have meticulously sourced artefacts and art pieces to further reinforce the nostalgia – like the omnipresent blue and white ceramic urns, and vintage cruise liner posters and travellers’ trunks. Fast-forward to the 21st century with latest technology installed throughout, including Sonos sound system, 60-inch LED TV screen in the Media Room, gleaming steel kitchen and well-equipped gym.

Asri’s 600-square metre property, full facilities and six-bedroom suites make for a fabulous island retreat accommodating 12 guests; extended families and groups of friends can take over the entire residence for themselves, at an exclusive-use villa rate from USD1,195. The “comfort and ambience of a private home with luxury boutique hotel service” concept comes packaged with a dedicated team, including manager, butlers, chef and security guard.

All six suites – four in the residence main wing – are similar in size and offer the same high standards; luxuriously appointed but homely with thick pile rugs, heavy drapes and four-poster beds. Bathrooms are elegant with stained glass windows, art deco mirrors and vintage-style Kohler fixtures, including a claw-foot bathtub. The cute poolside wing, housing two interconnecting suites with open-air bathrooms, offers extra privacy and informality, especially for young families. Asri provides ample space for individuals seeking seclusion; running alongside the 13-metre pool and broad sundeck, a chic pavilion divided into built-in daybeds and elevated cushioned sofas.

Evenings, Asri comes into its own, with the white buildings illuminated by coach

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Villa Windu Asri.

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venting in a villa clocKwise from top: b villas; villa windu asri; b villas.

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lanterns and the pool a deep shade of lapis lazuli. Even if you’re lured out to the neighbourhood’s world-class restaurants, be sure to congregate for pre-dinner cocktails in the Outdoor Living Pavilion. Surveying the pool, the villa’s sumptuous social hub is simultaneously open-air informal and utter refinement; high ceilinged with striking art works, eclectic objets and a lounge corner of sofas, ottomans and plantation chairs. Adjacent, the immaculately polished dining table is matched in length by a spectacular art deco lantern. Cocktails are concocted by butlers at the built-in bar (mango daiquiri, recommended) accompanied by tapas . . . smoking jackets optional.

Chef Anik’s culinary prowess however may entice you to occasionally dine in-house; extensive villa menus include shared group dining covering anything from Italian, Indian and Balinese feasts to seafood barbecues. Next morning, return for endearingly formal full-on breakfasts, included in room rates.

Windu Asri is essentially a holiday bolt hole where friends and family can chill out together in privacy and luscious space. It’s also family-friendly, providing everything from trusted baby sitters and removable pool fence to WiFi-enacted baby monitors. This lavish beauty also makes the ultimate in one-upmanship for anniversaries, birthdays, wedding parties and formal small-scale events (sit-down dinners accommodate 24 guests).

If your group is too large for Windu Asri, book the sister property, Villa Windu Sari, next door (accessed by an interconnecting garden door) combining to house 20 guests. Windu Sari offers the same villa set-up, but with four-bedrooms and traditionally constructed in teakwood for a contrasting rustic experience. Currently undergoing a facelift after seven years, Windu Sari re-launches this April. www.winduvillas.com

Pools, even in the most modest villas, are eight-metres and surrounded by palimanan stone sundecks. All three properties also provide for guests with complimentary services including roundtrip airport transfers, daily shuttle service to Seminyak’s hotspots, WiFi, and massive daily breakfasts.

B Villas also pride themselves on ultra-personalised service from a superfriendly team, including round-the-clock concierge and butler services from dawn ‘til late.

B suits those who seek a stylish space in Seminyak to party and diffuse but can pass on clutter and detail. There’s a respectful nod to Balinese traditions: villas hide behind high-walled gardens and bear the island’s rustic aesthetics of alang-alang roofs and open-air living.

Must-have essentials are covered, such as coffee machine, DVD player, iPod dock . . . and a sense of fun that prevails with the B brand.

B BOP With three B properties to choose from B informed. The largest, Bvilla+spa is a striking, ultra-contemporary 14-villa enclave located on back road Jalan Braban but, handily, a short stagger from Seminyak’s Jalan Laksmana (a.k.a Eat Street).

All one-, two- and three-bedroom villas are surprisingly quiet residences – perfect for couples and friends. B’s five-bedroom – spread over an indulgent 1,100 square metres – works out fab value as an ensemble living option for extended families and groups of friends in central Seminyak.

Sensuous touches include award-winning “fruit bowl collection” rattan sofas designed by Hiroomi Tahara and couple-friendly black terrazzo tubs.

A few doors down on Jalan Braban’s intersection Bvilla+pool offers a smaller but cute property with six villas – these two-bedroom hideaways offer B’s best value, especially for young families and party people.

The oldest B property, Bvilla+seaside located about 140 metres from Petitenget’s surf beach, offers eight one-, two- and three-bedroom villas, all individually spaced along Jalan Kayu Jati’s street frontage. Seaside offers the most rusticity – hidden behind cream-hued high walls, circular semi-open pavilions come topped with high-pitched, thatched conical roofs, while comfy interiors feature lumbung-style open mezzanines and sprawling white terrazzo bathrooms.

Covering 505 square metres, B’s three-bedroom villas make the ultimate party pad. Whatever you choose, you can B yourself. www.bvilla.com

B VILLAS ONE brand, three separate B villa properties and 28 villas – Bvilla+spa, Bvilla+pool and Bvilla+seaside boast some of Seminyak’s most enduring villas. Subsequently boxed-in by newer properties, B Villas is still in a “happening” area but are also private sanctuaries in quiet pockets of Seminyak.

B Villas were created to provide family and friends on holiday together with an in-villa and resort experience at the best rates for properties of its kind in Bali – with rates starting from a very reasonable USD240. B offers to-die-for spaciousness in its highly styled, one- to five-bedroom villas in the middle of Seminyak downtown.

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...celebrate personal wellness

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sounds around

believe

by martin east.

Nicole Moudaber is a music producer and DJ born in Nigeria, raised there and in Lebanon before moving to London. In 2009 Carl Cox described her as "the most underrated DJ" in DJ Magazine, which helped launch her career. Her 2013 debut album Believe was number-one for a month on the Beatport techno, tech house and deep house charts. Her MOOD Records imprint was launched in 2012.

Nicole, so what brings you to Bali?

This is actually my first time here. It’s been a pretty busy time for me with touring and gigs so this is actually an opportunity for me to take a break. I travel a lot, sometimes three continents in a week. So this is a moment for me to just chill for several weeks and take in some of the spirituality of Bali.

Where are you based for your producing nowadays?

The studio I work out of is in East London, in Dalston to be exact, and it’s from there that I work on the releases and the remixes. Presently I have a number-one in the charts with a techno remix of the classic track Give me luv by Alcatraz. It’s been there for seven weeks now so 2015 has started off on a good foot. I use the Abbott Street Studios and I have lived in East London for 13 years now and spend most of my time between there and Ibiza and on the road. My label is called Mood Records and we have a nice EP coming for WMC and also I am working with Skin from Skunk Anansi which will be released in the summer. That’s what I have coming next.

Bali is starting to be known around the world as the Ibiza of Asia. How would you compare the two?

The spirituality is similar, obviously. I wouldn’t say there is a club scene in Bali but there is a similarity on a spiritual level. I am actually playing a club called Jenja and they book really credible DJs. It’s going to take a while for Bali to get truly on a club trip and to be honest I’m not sure that it should actually happen here. It’s not why I have personally come to Bali. I don’t look for “club experiences” when I come here. The sunset scene could be lovely. It could become something but it sounds a little safe. Sunset sets on the beaches. Trying to push the scene within the ideas that work here. Not necessarily pushing them into a club.

You started out as a promoter, so who would you like to see here? If you had control of one venue for all of your friends for one sunset here, who would you be booking to DJ (aside from yourself obviously)?

For a sunset I would be looking at someone like Dixon or Hector. Maybe Guti. There are many DJs out there doing great stuff.

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How do you find that your cultural background influences what you do?

Well I have a mixed background between Nigeria and Lebanon. Drums and percussion heavily influence my musical production and my DJ sets. Very repetitive and trance like.

It is most definitely a part of what I do. I think you can hear it in the music I make and the way I play.

Aside from music that you play in clubs what are you listening to?

I really like listening to a lot of quite chill stuff and in particular Spanish music ranging from Flamenco to Salsa. I am quite a music lover so I like a bit of everything.

Let’s go back to the beginning of the journey to when you threw your first party in Lebanon. That’s a place that has gone through quite a cycle from hotspot of the Mediterranean to being ravaged by war. At what point were you there?

After the war, obviously. I came back and started throwing parties there. The first one was a location that I chose in the middle of the derelict city. Next to a Mosque and a Cathedral that were completely bombed out. So we took that space and I booked DJs from London and I got dancers from Paris, set up the whole thing. The city helped us a lot facilitating everything to happen and we had about a 1,000 people. We broke down all the barriers. So we had Muslims, Jews and Christians all together under the stars and music has the power to do that. Music has the power to unite and that night was quite euphoric.

How did you make the transition from the person who throws the party to the one person playing at the party?

So l left Lebanon and I had a record label running in London at the time and I wanted to focus on that. I started promoting in London and I did five and a half year at the legendary club called Turnmills. After that I bought a house in Ibiza and I wanted to break away from promoting as it was quite hectic. I spent a lot of time finishing the house, and when I came back to the music the only way that felt natural was as a producer and a performer. I went into the studio without knowing where it was going to take me, without thinking of an end result for it, but just because I loved it. Then one thing led to another and Carl Cox started playing my music on his radio shows and he invited me to play at this small gig he was doing. Consequently he started inviting me to his Space Ibiza Nights and things spiraled from there.

And finally, what is the best gig that you have done?

Well they were all really amazing but there is one place that I do enjoy playing and that is Stereo in Montreal. A unique place with the most amazing sound system. The best in the world. I just play for 10 and 11 hours in there. I love it.

AT ERS GRE RANTS, F F O P P U A 'S EPIC T RESTA THE YAK OF BALI’S BES ERVICES AND S S LISTING LAS, SHOPS, APS, CONTACT IL M V SPAS, UN . . . WITH S! F FAMILY S AND REVIEW R E B NUM

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astroyak

moodofthemoment

By Dr Deepak | astro-deepak@usa.net | www.astronlp.com | Skype: drdeepakvidmar

BELOVEDS, my apologies, but some of your horoscopes this time are not sugar and spice and everything nice. It is a significant time. The transits are from hell.

Anything can happen. The cardinal signs at 14-16 degrees (Aries, Cancer, Libra, Capricorn) are primarily impacted. This can be your Sun Sign, your Ascendant, or any of the other 9 ‘planets’. If you don’t know what these are, you can get a free horoscope chart on the internet. Mars enters the equation March 11-12, which adds more fuel to the fire and triggers off an explosion both in the world and inside our personal lives. In the world it has to do with the areas of economy, currencies, protests, wars, terrorism, government, nuclear energies, the grid, and earthquakes. In our personal lives, it has to do with sudden shock and separation in the areas of life in which these planets are located in the natal chart. For some, it will bring feelings of fear. Maybe nothing will happen, but the feelings are there. These too shall pass. Meanwhile, the other side of all of this is that many people will become spiritually free and the increase in creativity will result in incredible scientific/mystic discoveries and inventions.

aries This may not be the most calm and peaceful time of your life. Tension has been building up, up, up since the middle of February and it peaks, it really peaks, around March 11-12. The closer to being born April 4-10, the stronger the impact. You can expect some impatience, frustration, impulsiveness, and sometimes anger. There is the desire maybe to quit and do something new. You resent being controlled or restricted at this time. It is a good time for a heroic journey into the unknown, to unfold your wings and feel, really feel, what it is like to fly.

leo

Mr. Good Guy Jupiter continues in Leo until September. Good time to expand your horizons through travel or learning higher truths. If you are fortunate to find a teacher, it will be one who is ahead, but will not lead, who does not require you to bend your knee and will respect you as you are. Time to expand yourself and shine. Selfconfidence is high and good fortune guides your path.

Maybe a tendency to exaggerate or have tax troubles. Some burden with children possible. Not a good time to gamble, but a very good time to laugh and enjoy.

sagittarius

taurus

virgo You have a tendency now to give up on longterm projects and involvements, to change personal habits and religious beliefs and feel very dissatisfied with many aspects of your life that seemed satisfactory before. You are at a point in your life when your deepest convictions, beliefs, and ideals are undergoing some changes. Agreements and contracts of any nature may not be followed through to completion and so hold off on any long-term commitments you might need to make. A lack of clarity in relationships and burdens in the home. The juice and joy is being with yourself in Nature.

capricorn

libra

Beloved, you are one of the four cardinal signs that the Pluto/Uranus/Mars is impacting so strongly, particularly if you are born October 4-10. In your chart, it has to do with your relationship with the other. There may be someone in your life totally unreasonable, inconsiderate, uncooperative, and who gives you an angry outburst. There is no amount of reasoning or compromising approach you can take here that will work. The best approach is to give the other a lot of space and to shy away. Your best support at this time is with your friends.

aquarius

This is a time of knowledge for you, deep and profound knowledge from both the depths of your unconscious connection to the collective mental field and your understanding of external events. Your mind is at its creative maximum able to cross back and forth the boundaries between common understanding and unique perception. Every time of crisis is a time of creativity and realisation also and maybe that is what this is all about. You may feel like withdrawing from your friends for a while, but remember your partner is your juice in life.

scorpio Good fortune in your work, but a tsunami of problems and unexpected disruptions in getting it done.

Lack of enthusiasm for making money the way you used to. A lack of clarity or deception if you take a risk or gamble.

Misfortune if you are dishonest in any way. It is a time of reevaluation about your values and what is most important to you in both work and relationship. Some anger with the other in April and then it passes on. On the other hand, there is an enormous creativity possible for you now and you can find a new way to a new destination that nourishes a new you.

pisces Beloved precious one, this may not be an easy time for a while. Neptune is the ruler of your sign and when it went into Pisces in 2011, life became like a dream. All ambition or need for achievement dissolved. Ego dissolved.

Earthly affairs dissolved. Now Saturn has come into square until 2018. It is saying be practical, be grounded, be responsible, do your job. It is a conflict resulting in doubt of both your beliefs and yourself. You can’t do both so the best strategy is to do the Saturn now and save, so that you have something to live on when you let go and live your Neptune until it too passes on in 2026.

Dreams are particularly important to you now. Revelation is possible of eternal truths beyond words or proper nouns to describe, but will be expressed in your aura.

It is a welcome experience helping to balance your being with the spiritual as well as the material. Friends of a spiritual nature give you the benefit of their experience and gentle guidance into this realm. They benefit by your strength and stability in the physical realm. It is a win-win situation of integration and harmony of two different but interdependent dimensions.

So you are one of the four mutable signs having the Saturn square Neptune transit. The impact is strongest if you are born around November 26 to December 1. The joke is that you have spent your whole life searching for truth and knowledge and now might be a time of disillusionment and soul-searching that what you have found leaves you with lack of enthusiasm and self-doubt. The problem is Saturn sees only the small that can be felt and touched. Neptune feels the vast beyond the beyond. There is no middle ground or link between the two until you find it.

This is the kind of time like when Humpty Dumpty fell off the wall and all the king’s men could not put him together again. It started in 2008 when Pluto went into Capricorn and the economy went into Grand Recession. That’s its job – to find the faults and weaknesses of government, economy and infrastructure so that they can be purged, fixed, or restarted. Uranus squared in 2011 and now with Mars in the mix also, everything is explosive. Pretty much everything you have built is at risk now and you may need to start again. The ability to be reborn is your greatest gift.

gemini

This is a time of dilemma and duality between feet on the ground and head in the sky. First the Neptune dream in 2008 and now the earthy demands of practical reality with the Saturn opposition starting this January 2015. Many will find that the dream was just a dream and feel disillusionment with their beliefs. It becomes a time of doubts and self-questioning about what is important to you. The usual bubbly, friendly and social Gemini personality might withdraw and feel alone. Others will find a way to bring the dream to earth and still let a cloud be a cloud.

cancer

The gift of Cancer is your sensitivity, attachment, nourishment and protection of others. Whether man or woman, it is a “mother” energy that provides support and security. The curse of Cancer is that these energies don’t work well in this modern world and particularly in these times. “Ouch” to be attached when everything and everyone is going through changes so fast. How to protect in such a vulnerable world. How to nourish in the midst of spiritual deprivation. Things are changing in powerful ways now and best to be prepared to jump.

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